La Doce Vita: Exploring Italy Through Fly Fishing

LA DOLCE VITA: Exploring Italy Through Fly Fishing

For me, fly fishing has always felt like a romantic pursuit - graceful, present, and steeped in appreciation for the quieter joys in life. In Italy, rivers wind through rugged mountains and picturesque villages, offering a perfect blend of tradition, beauty, and tranquility. Casting into these pristine waters reflects the true essence of fly fishing - a timeless connection to land, water, and spirit.

By EMILY RODGER // Images by CLEM MCINTOSH

Chasing Trout in Italy’s Rivers

Italy offered more than just trout; it offered a chance to slow down in some of the most breathtaking landscapes I’ve ever seen. Rivers flowed beneath jagged Dolomite peaks and through stone villages where time seemed to stand still. Casting beneath these ancient mountains, I marveled at the variety of troutmarble, rainbow, brook, and brown - that call these waters home.

Each species posed its own challenge. The brown trout, ever watchful, demanded precision. Rainbows struck with intensity, while marble trout, elusive and ghost-like, required patience and perfect timing.

Then there was the brook trout - its vibrant colors and intricate markings stirred childhood memories, reminding me how long I’ve been captivated by the beauty and pursuit of these fish.

Blending Cycling and Fly Fishing

One morning, my guide Alberto Zanghieri and I set off for the mountain rivers, bikes loaded with rods, waders, and gear. I had ridden these roads in the Dolomites many times before, always in pursuit of speed and victory, but today there was no finish line. This time, I could take it all in - savoring the journey without the rush.

As we climbed, I was reminded of my last bike race as a competitive cyclist, which also took place in the Dolomites. I recalled racing past rivers and lakes, pushing my body to its limits, yet my mind drifted elsewhere - toward the waters below, and the fish I longed to pursue once my racing obligations were done. That race marked a turning point for me. For the first time, I wanted to ease off the pedals.

I no longer craved the podium; I craved the cast.

Italy had always drawn me in for the feeling it gave - a counterbalance to the intensity I had known. It taught me to slow down, to truly absorb my surroundings. Now, back in the mountains, still on a bike but with a different purpose, I could finally relish those rivers instead of racing past them.

“For the first time, I wanted to ease off the pedals. I no longer craved the podium; I craved the cast.The ride through winding paths was a perfect convergence of cycling and fly fishing”

The ride through winding paths was a perfect convergence of cycling and fly fishing, where movement met stillness, and challenge met calm. That day with Alberto, every catch felt like a victory with deeper meaning. It was as if the Dolomites themselves smiled down, rewarding me for stepping away from what no longer served me, and embracing what did - staying true to myself, and to a life that feels fully my own. It’s in slowing down that these moments reveal their meaning.

A Deep Connection to Tradition: The Fly Fishing Museum in Varallo

Italy’s fly fishing culture is deeply rooted in history, as I discovered at the Fly Fishing Museum in Varallo. Tucked away in this charming town, the museum felt like stepping into a time capsule of the sport. Housed in a historic building, it’s a tribute to Italy’s deep, often overlooked, connection to fly fishing.

Glass cases displayed meticulously preserved rods, reels, and hand-tied flies - some crafted from horsehair and silk, relics from an era when gear was as much art as function.

The walls told stories through photographs and sketches of early anglers whose techniques were passed down through generations. As I admired the delicate, handcrafted flies and vintage rods, I reflected on the sleek, high-performance gear I use today. It was humbling to witness the artistry and patience that shaped this sport long before technology refined it.

The museum wasn’t just a collection of artifacts - it was a reminder of the skill, care, and tradition that continue to define fly fishing.

A Taste of Italy—Beyond the River

Italy’s culture is as much a part of the fly fishing experience as the rivers themselves. One of the places I stayed was a cozy agriturismo, where each meal celebrated local produce and family tradition. One afternoon, I learned to make pasta from scratch, shaping tortellini by hand before sitting down to enjoy it. The agriturismo produced its own balsamic vinegar, wine, and beer - all crafted with respect for time-honored methods.

The patience poured into every detail of life here mirrored what fly fishing has always meant to me; a reminder that the process is as meaningful as the outcome. What made the experience richer was the camaraderie that unfolded around the table. I met Giorgio and Omar during my trip, and we gathered at the agriturismo for lunch with their friends - some who drove hours just to be there. It wasn’t just about fishing; it was about connection, shared passion, and the joy of being welcomed into a community. Italians have a way of making everything flow effortlessly - conversation, friendship, and of course, wine, which flowed as freely as the stories shared.

Between casts and river days, I tasted 36-month aged Parmigiano-Reggiano at its source, learned the story behind aged balsamic vinegar, and laughed over home-cooked meals with new friends. Fly fishing has always brought more than fish. It takes us into places and moments we might not have found otherwise - into kitchens, vineyards, and gatherings where bonds form and feel timeless. Despite language barriers, fly fishing becomes a shared language, one that unites us through a love for water, nature, and the stories they hold.

Reflections on Italy as a Fly Fishing Destination

Italy offers more than excellent fishing; it nourishes the spirit. From the snow-covered Dolomites to the serene streams near Varallo, it feels as though you’re casting in a place unchanged for centuries.

The more I travel, the more I want to immerse myself not only in the fishing, but in the culture and history of the places I visit. Whether learning to make pasta, exploring villages, or meeting locals who have fished these waters for generations, each experience becomes richer when I embrace everything a destination offers - and stay curious about the feeling it leaves behind. Italy is where fly fishing truly becomes more than the catch - it’s about embracing la dolce vita, savoring each cast, each meal, each connection. Life, like fly fishing, layers experience upon experience - timeless, classic, meaningful. We just have to slow down enough to feel it.

It’s here that I’m reminded why fly fishing feels so romantic: the way time stretches, how each cast is filled with intention, and how the beauty of a place seeps into every part of the experience. In Italy, it’s never just about catching fish - it’s about being fully present, swept up in the grace, the stillness, and the simple joy of being exactly where you’re meant to be. It’s no wonder I am constantly drawn to go back.

Italian Dolomites//

The fly fishing season in the Dolomites typically spans from May to October, with spring runoff giving way to the gentle flows of summer and early autumn. Anglers can expect a mix of dry fly and nymph opportunities, depending on conditions. Accessing these rivers often requires a state fishing license, along with local daily permits, which vary by region. Many of the best experiences, however, are found through the guidance of seasoned local experts. Accommodations in the region often enhance the fly fishing journey. Staying at an agriturismo - a traditional Italian farmhouse turned guesthouse - means not only proximity to rivers but immersion in the rhythms of rural life. Here, meals are made from scratch with local ingredients: hand-rolled pasta, house-aged balsamic vinegar, wine pressed from grapes grown on-site. The same care that goes into tying a perfect fly is mirrored in every dish, every gesture of hospitality.

For those looking to experience fly fishing in Italy, Italian Fly Fishing Tours offers unique adventures that blend cultural immersion with unforgettable fishing in both alpine and spring creek settings. I also host trips with them throughout the year, creating opportunities for guests to explore this incredible country while casting in some of its most scenic waters. Whether you’re a seasoned angler or brand new to the sport, these hosted experiences take care of all the logistics—from local guides and permits to gear, transportation, and accommodations—so all you have to do is get yourself to Italy. Traveling within Italy is incredibly easy, thanks to a well-connected network of international airports, rail lines, and roads that guide travelers into the heart of any region.

Interested in joining? To learn more about upcoming hosted trips or to plan your own custom fly fishing experience in Italy, feel free to reach out directly to Italian Fly Fishing Tours: www.italianflyfishingtours.com

Or connect with me : www.emilysrodger.com

Logistics //

Traveling around Italy is easier than one might expect, thanks to a well-connected network of international airports, train stations, and well-maintained roads.

Whether you’re joining me on a hosted trip or planning a custom adventure through Italian Fly Fishing Tours, all trip logistics—transportation, accommodations, permits, and guides—are fully taken care of, so you can simply show up and enjoy.

Many guests choose to extend their trip to explore more of Italy—whether it’s wandering through Florence, wine tasting in Tuscany, or visiting historic landmarks in Rome.

Major airports offering convenient access to fly fishing destinations include:

• Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) - Centrally located and well-connected to both northern and central Italy.

• Milan Bergamo Airport (BGY) – A great option for travelers flying into northern Italy, with car rentals available on site.

• Florence Airport (FLR) Ideal for exploring Tuscany and surrounding areas before or after your fishing adventure.

• Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) – Italy’s largest international airport with direct connections to most global hubs.

Wherever your journey begins, Italy’s beauty and variety make it the perfect backdrop for both adventure and exploration.