In the Loop Fly Fishing Magazine - Issue 46

SLOVENIA

By Alvaro G. Santilllán

By Felix Hansvencl

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Eden Bleu Hotel

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Photo by Marcos Hlace

Fall has arrived and so has our September-issue. We’ve been busy fly fishing for sea-run brown trout along the coastal shores of Denmark and Norway, and have headed into the creeks in search for rising fish. Next up are trips to Sørøya in search for halibut, and Cosmoledo Atoll in order to target GT, permit, bonefish, and triggers. It’s always good to have a few trips in the calendar!

How about you? Do you have anything booked? If not, there’s a great deal of inspiration to be found in this issue –no matter if you’re into chasing the ghosts of the flats or if you’re a trout nut looking for the next hatch.

As usual, we’d like to extend a huge thanks to all our contributors. This time around they include; David Lambroughton, Nicola Vitali, Matt Harris, Jess McGlothlin, Tom Cheney, Felix Hansvencl, Alvaro Santillan, Tarquin Millington-Drake, and Barry Ord Clarke.

Tight lines out there!

Photo by Alvaro G. Santilllán

#INTHELOOPMAG Presents

In the Land Of Living Water by Alvaro

G. Santilllán

The Saltwater Fly Fishing Paradise Where Dreams Begin by Nicola Vitali

A week of learning life skills from fishing guides by Jess McGlothlin

Scouting at the End of the World by Felix Hansvencl

The Waterways of the Vampire by Tarquin Millington-Drake

Endless Choices, Endless Possibilities by David Lambroughton

Contributors

RASMUS OVESEN

Oslo-resident, Rasmus Ovesen, was handed his first fly rod at the tender age of eight, and he has been a borderline fluff chucking fanatic ever since. Rasmus has written articles for some of the world’s most renowned fishing magazines, and his travels take him to re mote areas across the globe in search for fish that will test and challenge his skills to the maximum. He has seen his fair share of ex posed backing in the tropics, but his heart truly belongs to the soulful realm of trout and salmon fishing.

TARQUIN

MILLINGTON-DRAKE

choose not to print this magazine and we are happy not to use paper and harmful inks as used in a conventional printing process. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.

Although he has fished and photographed extensively around the world through his work as the MD of travel company Frontiers UK, TMD’s heart lies with the Atlantic salmon. He has fished Norway, Iceland and Russia every year for the past 20+ years. He was also President of the Ponoi River Company for 10 years and is an international Director of NASF. He is lucky to be a member of the 50lbs + salmon club. You can follow his travels and love of photography at: www.blog.millingtondrake.com

ALVARO

G. SANTILLIAN

Álvaro was born in northern Spain where he fished since his early childhood. He has since specialized in sight-fishing for trout and Atlantic salmon, Álvaro travels extensively in search for the best dry fly fishing spots. As a nature lover and photographer, he never travels without his rod and camera. As a founder of the LineasVivas flyfishing guides in 2006, he combines his work as a guide in www.lineasvivasflyfishing.com, with photography in www.focusonthefly.com.

JESS MCGLOTHLIN

Based in Missoula, Montana, Jess McGlothlin works as a free lance photographer and writ er in the outdoor, travel and fly-fishing industries. While on assignment in the past few years, she’s learned how to throw spears at coconuts in French Polynesia, dodge saltwater croc odiles in Cuba, stand-up paddle board down Peruvian Amazon tributaries and avoid hitting wallabies while driving through the Australian outback. See more of her work www.JessMcGlothlinMedia.com

DAVID LAMBROUGHTON

David Lambroughton splits his year between British Columbia and New Zealand and lots of stops in between as he gathers his photos for his annual Fly Fishing Dreams Calendar. His calendar comes full of info on the people, places, passion and fly patterns of our sport and is sold all over the world.

TOM CHENEY

Tom Cheney is a writer and sto ryteller with a passion for wild salmon and their habitats. He is a keen fly fisherman, photogra pher, conservationist, and mem ber of ASF’s communications team. For more information, please refer to: com/tomcheney www.asf.ca

FELIX HANSVENCL

Felix started out in the sports industry, playing profession al soccer for Bundesliga clubs such as Eintracht Frankfurt as a youngster. After finishing his studies – a B.A. in International Sports Management and a B.A. in International Business Ad ministration – he was in charge of the International Business operations for Eintracht Frankfurt. At the age of 25, Felix started do ing hosted fly fishing trips to various destinations worldwide and - 5 years later - he decided to leave the sports industry and focus fulltime on the destination angling sector. Since then he has worked as a travel agent as well as manager and guide for different lodges around the world, such as the Las Buitreras Lodge on the Rio Gallegos (Ar gentina). Photography plays a big role during his season and trips: www.flynature.eu

Do you have any great fly fishing photos, vide os, or stories that you would like to share with our readers? If so, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us. We are always looking for quality material for In the Loop Magazine, and we look forward to reviewing your material.

w www.alphonsefishingco.com

t +248 422 9700 [GMT+04:00]

m +27 60 980 7316 [GMT+04:00 WhatsApp]

e reservations@alphonsefishingco.com

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FIND YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE

We’ve had the privilige of traveling to some of the world’s premiere fly fishing destinations. Now, it’s your turn! Browse Destinations

In the Land Of Living Water Slovenia

Tucked between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic, Slovenia is a land where rivers carve deep valleys through limestone mountains, where emerald pools reflect ancient forests, and where the air carries both the chill of alpine snowmelt and the warmth of Mediterranean breezes. Known among anglers as the “land of living water,” this small nation offers an extraordinary blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and world-class fly fishing. Few places in Europe remain so unspoiled, and fewer still hold such allure for those who dream of casting to marble trout in crystalline streams.

The Rivers of Tolmin

Our journey led us to the Tolmin region, a meeting point of wild landscapes and timeless waters, where the Soča River - famed for its surreal turquoise glow - converges with the Idrijca. The Soča, often described as one of the most beautiful rivers in the world, flows as though lit from within, its clarity so startling that fish appear to hover in mid-air. The Idrijca, equally beguiling, is narrower and more intimate, winding through shady forests and rocky gorges. Together, they form the centerpiece of Slovenia’s fly fishing culture.

Both rivers are rich in life, but the true jewel here is the marble trout. This ancient lineage of trout, unique to the Adriatic basin, can grow to

over a meter in length. Sleek, powerful, and aggressive, marbles are ambush-predators that often feed on smaller fish. Anglers typically target them with heavy streamers swung through deep runs, yet under the right conditions, they will rise with surprising delicacy to a perfectly placed dry fly. Rainbows, grayling, and hybrids between brown and marble trout add to the diversity, while barbel and chub make occasional appearances in the lower reaches.

Seasons, Access, and Logistics

The fishing season stretches from March through October, offering nearly eight months of opportunity across Slovenia’s rivers and tributaries. Permits are managed with care, ensuring sustainable fisheries.

A daily ticket costs around €60-90 and grants access to more than 100 kilometers of meticulously preserved water.

“These fish demand not just skill but patience”

Travel is refreshingly simple. Anglers can fly into Ljubljana, or even airports in northern Italy, and be on the water within two hours. Renting a car provides freedom to roam— from broad alpine valleys to remote mountain streams—making Slovenia one of Europe’s most accessible yet adventurous fly fishing destinations.

The Challenge of High Summer

We visited in the last week of July, when conditions were at their most demanding. Water levels had dropped to summer lows, leaving pools glassy and currents delicate. In such conditions, every cast becomes a test of finesse. Long leaders, fine 7X tippet, and flies tied in the tiniest sizes—20 to 26—were essential. Watching a grayling rise to sip a minuscule midge in water so transparent that it felt like casting into air was both maddening and magical. These fish demand not just skill but patience, and the reward is unforgettable.

Yet summer also revealed other treasures. Each morning began with hikes into forested tributaries - hidden streams where tenkara rods and oversized attractor dries drew eager strikes from pure, wild marble trout. Many of these waters lie far from the beaten path, requiring steep climbs or long walks through dense woodland, but the solitude was complete. Shaded canopies kept the air cool, the rivers tumbled in cascades, and the trout - small but brilliantly markedwere abundant beyond counting.

“Shaded canopies kept the air cool”

Afternoons were often spent higher in the mountains, where the air was crisp and the water refreshingly cold, offering relief from valley heat that climbed above 30°C. As the sun began to set, we returned to the Soča or Idrijca, rods ready for the evening rise. There, in the half-light, rainbows began to dimple the surface while alpine peaks caught the last glow of day. Few moments rival the peace of casting to rising fish under such a sky.

The Storm and the Marbles

Throughout our trip, the biggest marbles remained elusive. They thrive in higher water, when their hunting instincts awaken. Our guide, Gašper, seemed to sense this, constantly scanning weather reports and river gauges. His vigilance paid off one afternoon as we rested on the riverbank, beer bottles in hand. “Boys,” he said suddenly, “pack up—we’re going to the Trebuščica.”

A storm had rolled over the high mountains, sending a surge of colour and energy into the river. Within minutes, the Trebuščica had transformed from crystal-clear to a raging, chocolate torrent. Conditions most anglers would dread were, for the marble trout, a dinner bell.

We swung streamers through the murky flow, and the response was immediate: violent, unmistakable takes. Two magnificent marbles came to hand, their power undeniable, their markings as beautiful as the river itself.

One larger fish escaped us, a ghost of the storm, but the memory of that moment - the river alive, the fish hunting - remains indelible.

Beyond the Fly Rod

Though fishing is at the heart of Slovenia’s charm, it is only part of the experience. The region is a haven for outdoor adventures. Hiking trails climb into the Julian Alps, offering views across turquoise rivers and jagged peaks. Canoeing and rafting test the Soča’s wilder stretches. Villages like Tolmin and Kobarid, rich with history and tradition, welcome weary anglers with hearty meals and warm hospitality. Evenings end best in the company of locals, sharing stories over cold beer or slivovitz, as the rivers continue their eternal song in the background.

A Final Word

Slovenia is more than a destination; it is an immersion into a landscape where rivers are alive and wilderness still reigns. To fish here is not only to seek trout, but to walk into a world where clarity and purity are not metaphors but visible truths.

“Slovenia reveals itself in layers of beauty”

From delicate grayling sipping beneath alpine skies, to hidden tributaries filled with untamed marble trout, to the raw drama of stormfed rivers, Slovenia reveals itself in layers of beauty and challenge. It is a place where every cast is both a question and a gift, and where the angler who listens closely to the living water will always find an answer.

The best months for marble trout are spring and autumn, though summer offers spectacular dry-fly fishing for rainbows and grayling.

Aside from marble trout, you will encounter rainbow trout, grayling, brown trout, brown–marble hybrids, barbel, and chub.

Permits are around €60 per day, granting access to extensive waters (Soča, Idrijca, Trebuščica, and many tributaries).

Strict catch-and-release rules apply on most beats.

• Slovenian Tourist Board www.slovenia.info

• Tolmin Angling Club (Ribiška Družina Tolmin) www.flyfishing.si

• Soča Valley Tourism www.soca-valley.com

• Fishing in Slovenia (licenses and info) www.fishing-slovenia.si

F ROM OCEAN TO RIVER, FROM CITY TO WILD − WE’VE BOTH MADE IT HOME.

E very journey leaves its mark — on flanks of chrome, on worn in wading boots — on souls. But when you finally reach a place that feels like home, all the miles fall away and everything that matters comes into focus. You get one life. Fish It Well.

The Saltwater FlyParadiseFishing Where Dreams Begin LOS ROQUES

By NICOLA VITALI

by ROBERT PLJUSCEC and JOHAN PERSSON FRIBERG

Photos

Though I’ve cast flies across the globe and even run saltwater fly fishing operations in some of the most remote corners of the world, when I picture the ideal saltwater destination, one place instantly rises above the rest: Los Roques. This Venezuelan archipelago is not just beautiful—it’s a fully immersive fishing experience that combines unspoiled nature, a wide variety of species, and a level of access and comfort that’s increasingly rare in the saltwater fly fishing world. Whether you’re chasing your first bonefish or stalking the elusive midnight parrotfish no one has ever landed, Los Roques offers something truly exceptional: a fishery where both novices and seasoned anglers find themselves equally challenged, equally rewarded, and completely hooked.

Although I have fished in many places around the world, including running a few saltwater fly fishing operations, if I had to name the ultimate saltwater fly fishing destination, my first thought would be Los Roques. This may come as a surprise to those who are familiar with the legendary fisheries of the Seychelles, the Bahamas, or the Indian Ocean.

But Los Roques, with its rare combination of untouched beauty, diversity of species, accessibility, and affordability, stands in a class of its own.

“Whether you’re chasing your first bonefish or stalking the elusive midnight parrotfish no one has ever landed, Los Roques offers something truly exceptional”

Let me be clear from the outset: I’m speaking broadly about general saltwater fly fishing here. I’m not going to break things down into regions or fisheries too much. The Atlantic is a completely different story from the Indian Ocean, which I find endlessly intriguing, yet often more complex and far more expensive. In contrast, Los Roques offers an experience that is immersive, rich, and satisfying for anglers of all levels—without breaking the bank.

So, what makes Los Roques so unique and compelling? For starters, it has been a protected national park since the 1970s. This has spared it from the overfishing and aggressive development that has affected so many tropical destinations. Unlike the Maldives, where overbuilding and heavy tourism are beginning to degrade the natural environment, Los Roques remains pristine. The reefs are healthy, the flats are alive, and the pressure on the fishery is still relatively low. In today’s world, that’s an increasingly rare combination.

“It’s the fishing that truly sets Los Roques apart”

The setting itself is stunning. There are no cars on the main island of Gran Roque—you can walk barefoot on sandy roads without a care. The atmosphere is relaxed, rustic, and charming, like something out of a tropical daydream. Palm trees sway over pastel-colored buildings, and life moves at a slower pace.

From a travel standpoint, it’s relatively easy to reach. Flights from Caracas are short and scenic, and once you land, everything you need is within walking distance. If you choose the right lodge or guesthouse, you’ll find the service to be warm, professional, and attentive. It’s not expensive, especially when compared to high-end destinations in the Indian Ocean or Pacific, and it’s not overrun with tourists.

But it’s the fishing that truly sets Los Roques apart. I consider this one of the most complete saltwater fly fisheries in the world. You’ve got worldclass bonefishing—arguably among the best anywhere—for both beginners and seasoned anglers. But that’s just the start. The permit here are massive. You’ll find baby tarpon in the lagoons and mangroves, and sometimes even big tarpon around the bait-rich channels. Barracuda haunt the flats. Giant oceanic triggerfish tease and torment. And then there are the parrotfish—particularly the elusive and stunning rainbow and midnight varieties—which are, in my view, the ultimate fly rod challenge.

It’s the kind of place where you can tailor your trip to your mood and skill level. Want to catch 25 bonefish in a day and feel like a hero? No problem. Prefer to stalk spooky permit or target a single trophy parrotfish all day? That’s an option too. All this, at a fraction of the cost of more “elite” fisheries. That’s why we fell in love with it—and why we keep going back.

My fascination with remote, wild, and off-the-map locations is what originally led me to work in places like Sudan, Yemen, Djibouti, and Saudi Arabia. Those are rugged, demanding fisheries—beautiful but not for the faint of heart. So when I first started thinking about Los Roques a few years ago, it felt almost like a betrayal of my wild-fishing ethos. On paper, it looked traditional, maybe even too well-known. But something about it was calling to me. I had to see for myself what made it so special.

It was a great decision—one I’ve repeated almost every year since. Each trip reveals something new.

My friend Johan had been there twice before, mostly on DIY missions. DIY fishing is great for bonefish, but it really limits your access to the archipelago’s more exotic species. As we prepared for our joint trip, we made a pact: no bonefish. Not that we don’t love them, but we wanted to see what else this fishery could offer. For me, after ten years of Indian Ocean fishing, it was a totally fresh experience. I was buzzing with anticipation.

Bonefishing

Let’s start with the bones, though, because they’re the backbone of the fishery. Los Roques is renowned for its bonefish, and for good reason. You can experience some of the finest bonefishing in the world here. It’s not just about quantity—though you can certainly catch dozens of fish a day. It’s the variety of settings and techniques that make it special. You can blind cast to bait balls near beaches or wade skinny flats for tailing fish in ankle-deep water. Average size ranges from 3 to 5 pounds, but fish between 5 and 7 pounds are frequent, and double-digit bonefish

are out there, typically in deeper areas. These giants often return to the same flats, so once you learn the terrain, you can revisit them trip after trip. One unique trait of Los Roques bonefish is their appetite for baitfish, which is why many anglers use Gummy Minnows and blind cast into schools. Personally, I prefer sight fishing in shallow water—it’s more technical and visually engaging. But it’s amazing to have both options.

Permit fishing

Permit fishing is famously tough, and Los Roques is no exception. You could go an entire trip without hooking one. But if you do, it might be the fish of a lifetime. These are not small permit. Twenty-pound fish are routine here, and it’s not uncommon to see even bigger specimens.The approach is often from a skiff. Once a permit is spotted, you hop into the water and make a careful stalk. Presentation and patience are everything. It’s a heart-pounding pursuit, and even seeing a permit - let alone getting an eat - feels like a victory.

Tarpon fishing

Tarpon fishing in Los Roques is centred on baby tarpon found in mangroves and shallow lagoons. These fish are aggressive, acrobatic, and perfect for light tackle.

You can use a 6- or 7-weight rod and enjoy endless action with fish that leap, twist, and turn. Sometimes you can wade the lagoons, though the mud can get knee-deep, adding a comical but fun challenge to the experience.

“If you hit it right, you could connect with a fish in the 60-100 lb range”

Larger tarpon are less predictable. Their presence depends on baitfish movements and seasonal factors, which have become more erratic in recent years. Still, if you hit it right, you could connect with a fish in the 60–100 lb range. It’s a gamble - but one worth taking.

Triggerfish

Los Roques triggerfish differ from their Indian Ocean cousins. They’re less fussy in some ways - either they eat or they don’t. But that doesn’t make them easy. They’ll track your fly, test it, back off, come back again. It’s like watching an underwater drama unfold.

What really stands out here is the size. Most triggers range from 1.5 to 3 kg, but fish up to 5 kg are not unusual. And we’ve seen monsters in the 7 to 9 kg range - absolute tanks that test your gear and skills to the limit. Landing one of these giants is a rare feat and a major badge of honour.

Parrotfish

Now for the real addiction: parrotfish. These creatures are, in my view, the ultimate fly rod challenge in Los Roques. They’re big, muscular, wary, and once hooked, they explode with nuclear energy.

Catching one feels like winning the lottery. Holding one—its vibrant colours shimmering in the sun—is an unforgettable moment.

They’re more tide-dependent and less aggressive than their Indian Ocean counterparts. By aggressive, I mean reactive to flies. They’re not predators, so they don’t attack in the traditional sense. That makes presentation and timing critical.

Local guides often target large schools on specific flats. This shotgun approach works—but I prefer the sniper method. I look for singles or small groups and isolate a target. It’s more personal, more satisfying. But it’s also more likely to end in failure. And that’s okay—because it’s the pursuit that matters.

Once hooked, parrotfish fight dirty. They’ll reef you, bend your hook, bite you off with their beaks. They’re like underwater bulldozers with teeth. If you don’t land one on your first trip, you’ll probably be booking your return before you’ve even left the island. A special mention goes to the midnight parrotfish - a deep-black beauty with turquoise highlights.

Stunning, elusive, and almost impossible to catch. No one has officially landed one on the fly yet. Johan has hooked two and landed none. They’re curious and will follow your fly but seldom commit. That makes them the holy grail.

“A paradise for those who seek both beauty and purpose in every cast”

And that’s the essence of Los Roques: a place where a beginner can achieve their dream of landing their first bonefish, and a veteran angler can chase an unlanded legend. It’s a fishery that challenges and inspires, in equal measure. This is Los Roques—a paradise for those who seek both beauty and purpose in every cast.

Travel Considerations

Los Roques is accessible via a 30-minute flight from Caracas, Venezuela. Gran Roque serves as the main hub, with accommodations ranging from

basic guesthouses to luxury lodges. It’s advisable to book well in advance, especially during peak seasons.

The (slightly) cooler months of October to March tend to produce higher numbers of the large tarpon, although if the baitfish are in, these huge tarpon will be there whatever the season. Smaller tarpon are always found in the mangrove lagoons.The months between March to September are the best for bonefishing, the water is lower and fishing for bonefish in super skinny water is at its best.

Thanks to its location to the extreme south of the Caribbean, this archipelago is off the track of the hurricanes that wreak so much havoc to other islands at certain times of the year.

No vaccinations are required for a trip to Los Roques. And depending on your nationality, you may not need to apply for a travel visa. (Check online prior to your travels)

For more information, please refer to: www.wildseaexpedition.com/ the-los-roques-archipelago

VECTOR ZIP WADER

Designed for mobility and built to take a beating, it redefines what serious anglers should expect from their gear.”

A week of learning life skills from fishing guides ARGENTINA’S SPRING CREEK LODGE

By JESS MCGLOTHLIN

Patagonia has long been a name whispered with reverence among anglers, and northern Argentina’s spring creeks and rivers are at the heart of that legend. Vast cattle ranches, snowcapped volcanoes, and a patchwork of trout-filled waters create an atmosphere that feels both familiar and utterly wild. In the piece that follows, writer and photographer Jess McGlothlin captures this unique sense of place, reflecting on the rivers, the guides, and the timeless rhythm of life at Spring Creek Lodge in Junín de los Andes. It is a story not only of trout and travel, but of the universal connections found along rivers worldwide.

After sixteen years spent trotting around the globe with a camera in one hand and a fly rod in the other, I’ve come to a few conclusions. One, something - even just a single tiny little detail - will ring familiar in every place. Maybe the coffee tastes similar to a cup I had once somewhere else. Maybe the air smells just a bit like it does at home in Montana in the summer heat. Maybe the way the dirt puffs behind a truck bumping down a dirt road reminds me of childhood farm work. Something, some little detail, will make a new place feel like home.

And two, I’ve concluded that fishing guides will be, well, fishing guides. It takes a certain type of person to spend every day out on the water, managing guests and weather and the water itself, and still emerge sane at the end of every season. Regardless of the country, the language spoken, or the continent on which we might happen to be fishing, line up a row of civilians and guides and I can pretty much promise you’ll be able to spot the guide every time.

Maybe it’s cliché, this familiarity in certain aspects of fly fishing. Maybe it’s tribal, the way we seem to find each other and the way we all have immediate common ground because we decide to stand in various bodies of water and use sticks, line, hooks, and feathers to try and fool fish. We all find each other, somehow, and there’s a sort of wonderful familiarity about it all. Maybe that’s why Argentina feels so much like home.

The Place: Home, But Not Home

For years I’d heard anglers in my home state of Montana say that Argentine Patagonia feels like the Big

Sky State did forty, fifty, or even sixty years ago. They’d say that it is still a land of sweeping cattle ranches; open country cut by big rivers under even bigger skies. I never really understood the sentiment until I headed to Argentina myself and set foot in northern Patagonia.

Trade the Toyota Hilux trucks for Ford pickups, add in a few cowboy bars with Coors signs in the windows, swap out maté for dark cowboy coffee, and you might well be in Montana. There are certainly enough locals rigging fly rods in pull-outs along the road to make it feel familiar. The week I visit SET’s Spring Creek Lodge near the town of Junín de los Andes, there’s a summer wildfire raging in the distance, the scent of smoke heavy in the air, nearly obscuring the looming form of Volcano Lanín. If I close my eyes and listen to the distant thumpthump of the helicopters dumping water on the fire, I could well be in western Montana during a summer fire season.

The region the Spring Creek team fishes could readily be called a trout angler’s paradise.

The variety of fishable water makes me feel like a kid in a candy shop; there are simply too many rivers and not enough time. One day we fish a nearby reservoir, the next day brings an overnight float on the lush Río Chimehuin. The Aluminé River feels like classic trout water, and the Collón Curá River brings sharply to mind the Missouri River in Montana, thanks to its sweeping, open landscapes and bounty of trout game to rise to a fly.

But it’s the river we fish on the last day - the Upper Río Chimehuin - which truly wins my heart to this part of Argentina. The upper stretch is tightly lined with trees, the river itself full of bouncy pocket water with plenty of boulders and smaller rapids. It’s technical, it’s fun, and I grin like an idiot for much of the day as I slide streamers and big, foamy terrestrials underneath low-hanging branches on the bank. I miss some, I land some, and in a fitting farewell to the river, one of the biggest fish of the day comes right at the boat ramp.

The Guides: Universal Language

One of my favourite parts about this job is getting to meet and work with guides around the world. Everyone fishes and teaches differently, and I’m able to learn a little something (and sometimes a big something) from every guide I’m able to spend time on the water with. And while we fish and make images through the day, there’s plenty of time to talk about the place, the people, and maybe a little industry gossip on the side. It’s all part of that universal language: guide talk.

The guide team at Spring Creek Lodge is diverse, entertaining, and talented. The lodge pairs anglers with a different guide and driver most days, which allows guests to experience different guide styles and – hopefully - to learn something new each day. It’s a system that keeps everyone fresh and engaged.

I’m lucky enough to fish with four different guides throughout my stay, each with their own fishing style, artistic flair, and their own stories. A common theme amongst the four? These are professionals - men who know these rivers well, and who know how to set us up for a successful day.

Head guide Gonzalo “Gonza” Flego, a charismatic local with a mind for business and a wildly fishy intuition, heads for reservoir the first day. The next two days, we’re paired up for an overnight float on the Río Chimehuin. Despite very windy conditions we find plenty of rainbows and nicely-sized brown trout, some fish giving us aggressive takes, and others barely mouthing the fly.

A day on the Aluminé River brings me time with Diego Cortez, where we discover our shared equestrian backgrounds and promptly spend much of the fishing day talking about horse training while listening to reggae music and tossing streamers at big brown trout. Floating through the native reservation brings to mind days floating through Montana Indian reservations; with the same sheep, cattle, goats, and dogs roaming freely. Again, if I close my eyes I’d feel like I was right back in my home state, some 6,500 miles north.

The next day brings on the Collón Curá River with guide Facu Sanchez, starting with maté in the car on the drive to the river. I’m greeted with a grin and a, “I hear you like stream-

ers.” Apparently, rumour has gotten around, as it tends to do at lodges, and we decide streamers are a good plan for the day. The sky turns rust-colored midday through the wildfire smoke, and we bring in a veritable boatload of rainbows and a few browns throughout the course of a relaxed day.

My final day is the Upper Río Chimehuin with guide Facu Tizzano. An excellent teacher (and a Jiu Jitsu black belt and instructor when he’s not on the water), Tizzano keeps a loaded water squirt gun at the ready as incentive: I miss a fish, I get squirted. It’s a fun, effective reminder to stay on my toes. The Upper Río Chimehuin winds us through lush trees and boulder-strewn riffles, and we pull out plenty of browns and rainbows. By the time we reach the take-out—this one located less than three minutes from my cabin - I’m regretting the fact it’s my last day in Argentina this trip and already brainstorming ways to return.

The Overnight Float: Memorable Highlights

One of the highlights of the Spring Creek Lodge program is the overnight float.

Each week, guests are divided into smaller groups and get to experience a two-day float on the Río Chimehuin with a camping stop midway. Coming from a do-it-yourself upbringing in Montana, where camping means setting up our own tents and cooking our own food over the fire, this camp set the bar high.

A gear boat team is sent ahead to set up camp, complete with roomy tents holding cots and side tables, a generator, a cook tent, dining tent, and even a shower and bathroom. “Glamping” was the word that came to mind; the angler’s job is to drop their bags at their tent, get comfortable, and enjoy a cocktail while the asado is cooked. Rest, relax, and chat around the fire.

After a remarkable dinner of a seemingly-endless supply of glorious Argentine meats, we hunker around the campfire and hot coals are carefully dropped underneath each camp chair. This is a new tradition to me, and one I’ll remember for future chilly-night campfires: the sensation of having a glowing source of heat directly under oneself is spa-like. The camp team slips hot water bottles into our sleeping bags, and by the time everyone retires we’re warm, stomachs full, and eager for the morning hours to come so we can continue fishing.

Morning brings coffee, maté, and breakfast, and then we simply load up our gear, push the rafts off, and start fishing.

There’s no break-down of the camp; the camp and the camp team remain, waiting for the next group of guests to arrive that evening. It’s efficient, relaxed, and a memorable addition to a week of fishing, Argentine-style.

Home Base: Spring Creek Lodge

After long days on the water, Spring Creek Lodge itself provides a welcome “rest and recover” touchpoint. The lodge sports an array of cabins and even full-size homes to accommodate various groups of guests, and while the rooms are gorgeously furnished and exceedingly comfortable, it’s the main house which is the central hub of activity.

Every fishing lodge has one: a central gathering place where anglers gather at the end of the fishing day to enjoy a cocktail, trade stories, and refuel with a hearty dinner before retiring to bed and recharging for the next day of fishing. SET’s main house is cozy and airy, centred around a bustling bar with handcrafted cocktails served by Juana and Joel. The true highlight of the lodge, however, must be the food. SET’s culinary team leans heavily into fresh, local ingredients, crafting fine-

ly-balanced meals, incredible homemade breads, and elegant desserts. There’s often a post-dinner fire outside the building, though many anglers opt to dine and dash, returning to their beds to get some sleep before the next day of fishing.

The Argentine Experience

I’d always rolled my eyes a bit when people would say that fishing Patagonia is like fishing Montana in “the good old days.” Now I don’t. Now I know it’s a place that feels oddly like home; a place that smells like wildfire smoke in the summer, where roadside pull-outs are filled with fishermen rigging rods, where the brown trout of a lifetime might be waiting around the next bend.

Every fly angler should make time in their life to find their way down to Patagonia. I can’t promise it’ll feel like home, but I can promise that, in one way or another, you’ll find the trip worthwhile. And that you’ll find something - even if it’s small - that feels familiar.

For more information, please visit www.setflyfishing.com/en/fly-fishing-patagonia/spring-creek-lodge/

SWIFTCURRENT™ WADERS

For the most rugged conditions.

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Photo: JEREMY KORESKI © 2025 Patagonia, Inc.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

BAT BAT

Scouting at the end of the world

By FELIX HANSVENCL

After two scouting missions in Papua New Guinea (PNG), it was time to return to BAT BAT for round three. This one was particularly special – we had just acquired a new mothership with our partners. The MV Tiata is now our floating home in these remote waters, and we couldn’t wait to step aboard.

Papua New Guinea

The boat met all our expectations. It features three bathrooms with toilets and showers, air conditioning, freshwater via a desalination system (providing top-quality drinking water), and comfortable single and double cabins for up to six anglers.

Outside, several lounge areas offer the perfect spot for an after-fish drink or a relaxing evening under the stars. We also invested in two brand-new panga-style skiffs and a larger center-console boat, giving us full flexibility to explore this frontier.

Autumn 2024: Back to PNG

Getting to this point had taken serious groundwork. Over the past two years, we had secured legal permits, formed agreements with local tribes, and acquired the necessary boats and infrastructure.

We finally had a good setup ready to deliver an exceptional experience in this wild and remote part of the world.

We traveled to Papua New Guinea in autumn 2024, with a brief stopover in Brisbane, Australia. During this trip, three full groups joined us as we returned to some familiar fishing grounds we had visited a year before. These areas had already shown great potential, and we were excited to see how they would perform under different conditions. Unlike our previous missions, we now had a deeper understanding of the flats, tides, and terrain, which gave us more confidence in our approach. At the same time, we were eager to explore uncharted areas that we had been wanting to check out for some time. The plan was to spend a few days fishing in one area, then travel overnight to the new fishing grounds.

Outer Atolls

Our first two trips took us back to the Outer Atolls, a region we’d scouted the year before with great results - including GTs up to 118 cm landed on fly. On that previous trip, we lost numerous fish simply too powerful to stop before they cut us off in the coral.

This time, the early days of each trip started slower than expected. The tides didn’t line up quite like last time. GTs were present, and triggerfish were around in the deeper water - but proved tough to tempt. That said, we did have several shots at cruising fish and even managed to land a Napoleon wrasse off a vibrant coral bommie. The fish inhaled a large popper and darted straight into a caveclassic Napo behavior. After a few nerve-wracking minutes of diving and line untangling, we finally brought it to the surface. Landing a Napoleon on fly is an exceedingly rare feat, and this one was hard-earned.

Off the reef’s edge, tuna schools were exploding on bait. One of them was hooked on a 9-weight - the only rod within reach - and it turned into a wild ride. Our friend Antti hooked into a serious yellowfin, only to have something massive take the fish in a single bite - leaving just the head. That night’s theory session, over a few drinks, included everything from a tiger shark to a great white.

Later, we made a bold move out to an atoll we’d long had our eye on. It looked like fly-fishing heaven: ginclear water, nice reef drop-offs, and channels funneling out from the lagoon. Anchoring just outside the reef, we discovered a thriving triggerfish fishery right in the surf zone towards low tide. Yellowmargin and mustache triggers tailed steadily on the flats. Massive GTs cruised through the channels - enough to make your hands shake while preparing a cast. We spotted schools of bumphead parrotfish along the edges, and even saw a Napoleon wrasse the size of a car lurking near the mothership. No one even considered casting - it was simply too big for fly tackle.

We wrapped up those first two weeks by venturing into a completely new zone, untouched by anglers. Meeting with local tribes in this isolated region is always a humbling experience. These communities live off the land and sea, relying on rainwater, local fish, lobster, and a small variety of homegrown vegetables and coconuts. What’s particularly fascinating is how they navigate between islands using their hand-crafted canoes and traditional sailing boats - sometimes spending days on the open ocean.

“We targeted the Secret Atolls, two distinct fisheries within close range of each other”

It’s an incredible display of resilience and resourcefulness. They are always deeply grateful for the supplies we bring, and we do our best to tailor our stock to their needs, ensuring we can support them in ways that make a difference on our next visit.

After a morning of ceremonies and meetings, we set off to explore. What we found were flats cut by deep-water channels - small sand patches surrounded by immense underwater highways. These sand flats held GTs and bluefin trevallies, within those water highways we even had sightings of sailfish and marlin. On the right tides, baitfish gathered in the current seams, and the action kicked off. We landed bluefin trevallies, a few solid GTs up to 110 cm, and even a massive 170 cm barracuda.

Secret Atolls

For our final week, we hosted a group from Alaska - some new faces and a few long-time friends who’ve followed us on scouting trips around the globe. We targeted the Secret Atolls, two distinct fisheries within close range of each other. This allowed us to divide the week between both atolls, giving each one three full days of focused exploration.

Saltwater scouting teaches you patience. Sometimes a flat that looks perfect just doesn’t fish well - at least not at the wrong time of year.

One of these Secret Atolls had frustrated us in June 2023 - poor weather, few fish, wrong season. Fast forward a year and a half, and it was a different story. GTs shadowing rays, patrolling schools over the flats, and sitting beneath bait balls outside the reef. We waded, push-poled, and drifted - adjusting tactics to match the tides.

It was an exceptional week, filled with unforgettable moments. Both locations produced strong fishing, with each day bringing fresh excitement. We ticked off several personal bests and first-time GTs, but one moment truly stood out. Aaron had his chance when he landed a big GT just over the one-meter mark, right from the beach. The fish hit a black popper on a sand spit where the current wrapped around the edge, creating the perfect spot for fish to come up from the deep. As soon as we saw his rod bend toward the reef, we dropped everything and sprinted over to help.

The line screamed off the reel, more than 200 meters of backing, as the fish made a hard run. It was a true test for Aaron, with each of us anxiously watching, hoping the fish would finally turn. After what felt like an eternity, it did. Just as the light faded, we landed the fish. A moment none of us will ever forget.

“Suddenly, two massive GTs materialized from the chaos”

Chad, on his first GT trip, had his shot at a big fish a few days later. Early in the morning, we drifted along the reef edge, right near the bait schools. Every 10–20 seconds, a loud “swoosh” echoed from the bait balls - clear signs that bigger predators were underneath. Chad made a perfect cast into the feeding frenzy, and suddenly, two massive GTs materialized from the chaos.

It was like watching an aquarium come to life. The first fish was around 1 meter, but the second was a true monster - easily pushing 120 cm. The larger fish charged the popper but with the speed and precision of a trout rising to a dry fly...and missed. The heartbreak was real, we all know chances for a big fish like that don’t come every session or day.

But PNG rewarded persistence. An hour later, Chad nailed another cast. A massive black GT came out of nowhere and engulfed the fly. Chaos erupted. He was on. The fish dove into the deep, Chad’s rod pointed straight at it - no bend left. After a brutal tug-of-war and a few tight calls around coral bommies, he landed a solid 112 cm fish. That afternoon we spotted more GTs riding stingrays as well as big spotted eagle rays and watched dolphins chase needlefish during sunset. We’ll be back.

Lost Reefs –Coming 2025/2026

As we gear up for our 2025/2026 season at BAT BAT, we’re finally unlocking access to a location we’ve dreamed of for years: a submerged atoll with expansive flats stretching over 400 square miles. We’ve secured the prime fly-fishing tides for both autumn 2025 and autumn 2026, and our yacht will be anchored right in the heart of it all.

Best of all, this trip requires no domestic flights - simply step off the plane in Port Moresby and straight onto the boat. Or, arrive a day early and enjoy a relaxed night at the Hilton. This one’s been a long time coming, and we can’t wait to share it with you.

For trip details, inquiries, and availability, contact: felix@solidadventures.com www.solidadventures.com

CLEARLY INNOVATIVE.

Introducing Magnitude Clear Trout oating line. A specialty line for the moments when you need to be stealthy and precise. Go ahead, shorten your leader, throw the perfect cast and know you’ve got the right line to reel in that elusive trout.

Duracoat

Specialized dual-polymer design optimizes line stiffness, slickness, and abrasion resistance while significantly reducing line memory and tangles.

EST +

EST+ - proprietary slickness additive that provides unmatched durability, smoother shooting, and eco-friendly performance.

Clear Floating Technology

Clear Floating Technology uses naturally buoyant polymers for the ultimate in stealthy presentation and best-in-class durability.

www.instagram.com/falknertours/

Falkner Tours is a travel agency specializing in fly fishing, hunting and skiing tours in Argentine Patagonia.

We are in the Lake District, in the north of Patagonia. We have hotels, lodges, guides and transfers in this area as well as transfers in Buenos Aires between the international and domestic airports.

We organize weeks of fly fishing from November to April. And among the trout you can catch are brown, rainbow and brook trout...

Come fish in Patagonia with a serious company, where the

The Waterways of the Vampire COLOMBIA

Colombia is emerging as one of South America’s most compelling destinations -not only for travel and culture but also for adventurous fly fishing. In this account, Tarquin Millington-Drake shares his experiences chasing payara - the so-called “vampire fish”- in the rivers of the Guaviare region. With a candid mix of travel reflections, hardearned fishing lessons, and observations on Colombia’s growing reputation, he offers a rare window into one of the most exciting and little-understood sport fish in the world.

By TARQUIN MILLINGTON-DRAKE

I have now been to Colombia twice, the second time I travelled more extensively. To date, all plans in Colombia have gone exactly on schedule and I have suffered no delays at all. The airports have been a pleasure. Up to date, clean, bright and not crowded. Check-in has been very easy in all cases. All the major hotel brands seem to be there from Four Seasons to Hyatt to Marriott and I have been lucky to go to some really fine restaurants including Ushin, Japanese grill and sushi at the top of the Grand Hyatt, Bogota, Osaka and Andres D.C. which is the most traditional and lively!

As someone said to me, one can get into trouble in any country or city in the world if you go looking for it and that applies to Colombia. However, one cannot help but feel that this is a country where the locals want to put the country on the map, particularly the under-40s. I met some truly talented young people from chefs to biology graduates etc. There seems to be a real determination to see Colombia respected and not known for Pablo Escobar or the FARC.

The vampires of the Amazon I am probably not a guru of payara compared to my Colombian friends like Danny, Felipe, Pablo, Armando and others but when it comes to the UK, on fly, I may be relatively experienced. Suffice to say, just like many of my blogs, what I have to say is based on what I have experienced, and I am determined for that experience to grow. I have now fished for payara twice on the Guaviare in Colombia and once in Brazil at Xingu.

It seems that very little is known about the payara. There seem to be a few variants with the one I have encountered likely being Hydrolycus armatus (as opposed to the smaller Hydrolycus scomberoides) or dogtooth characin. People say they migrate, but exactly when and why (to breed or follow baitfish or both) is not really understood it seems. They are mostly known as ‘Vampire’ fish and most commonly caught in the Orinoco basin in Colombia, Brazil and Ecuador. On a global scale they probably average 8 to 10lbs but where I have fished for them in Colombia the average is more like 15lbs.

These fish really intrigue me for several reasons. First, they lie in different types of water from slow to very fast, as fast water as an Atlantic salmon would lie in or faster. Just look at where their eyes are, these fish like to attack from underneath, hit their prey hard and then clean up the debris of pieces of fish afterwards which is when one can get in trouble because when a fish attacks and is hooked, others come up looking for the pieces too and sometimes cut the leader.

“Most would take you into the backing”

So, when lying in fast water, they are willing to come up and hit a fly right in the surface and that is the second reason they intrigue me, their willingness to rise and visibly hit a fly in fast water. They do it in medium paced water too. Lastly, you have to work them out, but they show enough (rolling and feeding) that they help you. I guess one further intrigue is they do take extremely

hard and pull equally hard and the bigger fish will run (and jump multiple times) and go into the backing. It is necessary to pull a payara very hard when it takes to stop it wrapping you in drowned trees and other river debris but still the big ones will take you into the backing. If we were playing them like salmon, most would take you into the backing, but we are fishing for them with large hooks which allow us to pull very hard with a 9 or 10#. There are various scenarios where I have caught payara and the more I fish for them, the more comfortable I am that, on many occasions, they lie in ambush in salmon-type water.

The tributaries of Guaviare

My very first experiences of payara were in a canyon of a tributary of the Guaviare. The river begins to speed up through rocks above a waterfall and then comes to a five to fifteen foot waterfall (depending on water height) and the rushing water after the falls. The water then tumbles through the canyon creating all sorts of rushes and fast water lies for the payara.

In January of 2020, on our first day in the Colombian jungle we caught fish throughout this sequence of water from above the falls in the white water runs to below the falls and all the fast water lies through the canyon. Due to the speed of water, many of the takes were visible.

Further up the tributary was another waterfall and again we caught payara below them. We also found payara where the main stem of the tributary would deepen and speed up but here the sink-tip lines were important because the payara were less willing to rise all the way.

In the latter part of the week, we found payara where the tributary and main stem met. The tributary was clearer than the main river and payara (and sardinata) would use the dirty water to ambush into the clear. The number of payara we caught here in the mornings and evenings was astonishing and big fish too with two of 25lbs, a 23lbs, 21lbs, 20lbs etc. We well- and truly satisfied our desire to catch payara before heading home to learn about this virus which seemed to be spreading from China.

Post-pandemic fishing

Thanks to that virus it was 2024 before I had the opportunity to return to the same area. We were in a new camp further away from the tributary and the water was lower. I was with a team this time and they were soon catching payara below the falls of the tributary and down through the canyon. My fishing partner and I had to look for new opportunities for payara as we had volunteered to go where they were not a certainty. This worried me but as the week went on, we found more and more opportunities, but it was not as if we got off to a bad start!

Jeremy caught his first ever payara right in front of the lodge within about 10 minutes of starting – it was one of the smaller fish we landed at 12lbs. We then went on down river to look for fish where a small creek comes in and if bait fish are dropping into the main river from the creek, the payara can be there in numbers. Again, there was a clear colour difference and we fished around that but it was perhaps too murky, just as we were thinking to look elsewhere, we had a take and that lead us to look

further down the colour line. We found fish and suddenly both Jeremy and I had fish on, and they were both big. Sadly, his let go quite quickly, but mine turned out to be the biggest I have ever landed at 26lbs and was a really strong fish.

“We

landed another seven or 8 fish before things went quiet”

Once back at it, Jeremy was into another big fish quickly which was clearly over 20lbs but it let go at the boat. We landed another seven or 8 fish before things went quiet as they do for payara during the hotter hours of the day. This spot was to become the ‘bread-and-butter’ spot for payara for everyone on the trip. We hooked quite a few big fish, but many came off with the next biggest at 22lbs.

Camp water

As the week evolved, I became intrigued with the water in front of camp.

It was like a salmon pool and the payara were lying exactly where I would imagine salmon to lie, below the cut bank in the deeper, faster water. We tried it one evening, drifting and casting into the bank and had many spectacular takes but again losing some big ones. There was no time for the big flies to sink materially despite having sink-tips so many of the takes were visible. The next morning, I was waiting for Jeremy and the guides to come down and thought I would have a try from the bank. I could only fish a spot about seven metres in length because there was a big bush in the way stopping me going further.

To my surprise I hooked three payara and they all peeled off line and headed down river with me standing there with no way to follow. Consequently, they all came off! I tried this a couple of times more with the exact same results, fish taking right in front of me off the top and then disappearing down the river. I did land one with the help of a boatman who happened to be there. While with Jeremy and the guide I also hooked a really big fish which ran off down the river about a hundred yards, but they were busy undoing a knot in the rope and did not respond to my cries for help until I was defeated! On the last day, our ‘bread and butter’ spot was fading due to less water coming out of the little tributary but thankfully we spotted fish on the other side of the main river amongst the dead trees and we enjoyed success.

After lunch we tried in front of the lodge but we were intrigued by the beach opposite where there was a break and drop-off and we had seen payara feeding. We went across and found fish there and it was so like salmon fishing. We also saw fish on the other side of the river above us and there was another break and again we found payara swinging the fly out of slow water into the faster stream. For me, the last day was the best day because the fishing just got more and more interesting as we found new spot after new spot.

Downsides?

What are the downsides to fishing for payara? I guess the main one is the size of the flies (often tube flies with large tandem hooks) and the fact it is best to fish with a sink-tip line. We found the best one to be the Rio Leviathan 350 grain. It is hard work but the opportunity or desire to get stuck into a payara does dampen the chore of a big fly and a sink-tip! It is frustrating to lose so many, most as they take but plenty after they are on too. The key, as is the case with dorado, tigerfish and Giant trevally, is really tough strip-striking

and yielding no line until you absolutely have to which takes a while with 40lbs test and some knot-able wire! Taping your fingers or wearing good gloves really helps because one is not shy of holding tight to the line which can cause nasty line burns if not protected. Finally, these fish follow bait so, although I have not experienced it, there must be situations where if there are no baitfish, the payara will be hard to find.

As I have made clear, I am intrigued by these fish. I like their willingness to rise, and I feel I am beginning to understand where they lie. Their takes match those of any tiger fish and dorado and for me, they are equally strong. I think they are or should be viewed as a national asset of Colombia because they are undoubtedly worth travelling for. I would however like to see much greater knowledge about the species so that it can be looked after and not over-fished. A Floy tagging programme would be fascinating if locals and other lodges could be encouraged to tag as well or, at the very least, report the capture of tagged fish. Payara remain firmly high in my list!

FOR FLY FISHERMAN. BY FLY FISHERMAN.

The Venture Sunglasses

Curtis Ciszek in the Venture Sunglasses

The Brand Buffet

Smith Optics: WESTWARD FRAMES

Classic round frames with a modern touch, the Smith Westward sunglasses are the fly fishing frames that double as an everyday pair fit for any setting. ChromaPop™ lenses boost contrast and natural colors for all-around wear. The lightweight bio-based Evolve™ frame and adjustable temples offer a barely-there feel and a customizable fit. We’ve tested them during the summer, and absolutely love the ChromaPop lenses, their contrast-enhancement on the water, and the light feel of the frame. For more info, please visit: www.smithoptics.com

Simms:

SCOUT CHEST PACK

From urban grid to alpine grind, the minimal-butmighty Simms Scout Hip Pack is made from a durable, distinctive sail-cloth material. Take it over the shoulder or around the waist with the magnetic self-finding Fidlock buckle that makes setting forth a cinch. Some of the key features include: Durable 100% recycled Challenger Sailcloth textile construction, main storage compartment comes with a subdivider and fits fly/ tackle boxes up to 10” long, front pass-through YKK AquaGuard zippered pocket, front drop-in storage with YKK AquaGauard zippered pocket and key hook attachment, and fidlock magnetic self-finding magnetic buckle with one-handed operation for belt closure. For a full lisst of features, visit the website of the European dealer: www.flyfisheurope.com/simms

Renomed:

FS4 CURVED

FLY TYING SCISSORS

Tested and found to be absolutely perfect, reliable, and ergonomically superior for all-purpose fly tying, and especially for precision work and cutting of rounded deer hair bodies. Task-specific blade size and type, as well as precision craftsmanship, make the FS4 scissors superior in terms of durability. Hand-made in Poland, a true pleasure to use, and a great addition to our previous arsenal of Renomed scissors. Highly recommended. For more information, please refer to: www.renomed.eu

Book review : A PASSION FOR BONEFISH

Imagine a book that feels like a whispered secret from a bonefish’s shadow - then render it into lavish color, bound in sumptuous landscape format, and you have A Passion for Bonefish, the latest gem from Ian Davis. This isn’t just a fishing book; it’s the new holy grail for flats devotees everywhere. From the first page, we were totally hooked.

Davis and a collective of top saltwater fly-fishing minds offer over a millennium of on-the-water wisdom - vaulting this book into must-read status for anyone who lives and breathes chasing bonefish. Utterly comprehensive, with chapters on everything from reading the flats and mastering the tides and moon phases, to guide teamwork, casting finesse, fly selection, and the adrenaline of hooking and landing a bonefish. Jaw-dropping imagery - each spread is awash with vivid photography, including sweeping drone shots that offer an osprey’s-eye view of the flats.

It’s as beautiful as it is informative. Reading A Passion for Bonefish left the staff not just more knowledgeable - but more fired-up than ever to prep gear, chase those silvery streaks across glass flats, and indulge our bonefish obsession. In short: it’s equal parts encyclopedia, inspiration, and eye candy. Whether you’re a seasoned flats ace or just daydreaming of tailing bones at dawn, this book will deepen your love for the chase - and sharpen your edge for the next great expedition. For more info: www.wildriverpress.com

Lamson:

HYPERSPEED F-SERIES FLY REELS

The Lamson Hyperspeed F5 reel picks up 11.5” of line and the F7 retrieves a staggering 12.5” of line per spool rotation. Every inch of the frame and spool has been meticulously CNC machined with even material distribution along critical load paths. Ensuring unrivaled strength, stability, and lightness despite its impressive size. So light you might forget it’s there, but commanding enough to demand attention. All of that is backed up by our sealed conical drag with plenty of stopping power to put you in the driver’s seat. Find a new gear with this reel that’s primed to keep pace with even the fastest fish you can find. Manufactured in the U.S.A. and assembled in Boise, Idaho. For more info, visit the website of the European dealer: www.flyfisheurope.com/lamson/

The Brand Buffet

Simms:

FLYWEIGHT BOOT ANNO 2025

A fully considered update to one of the most capable, comfortable wading boots in the Simms line, the new Flyweight Boot is a balanced blend of lightweight, travel-ready performance, felt traction, and the kind of no-quit durability that gets it done. Durable and lightweight, TPU-based synthetic woven upper material, molded, rubber toe wrap and abrasion panels protect against wear and tear, high cushion dual-density EVA midsole for comfort and stability, drain holes included in the boot so water does not stay trapped, outsole compatible with Simms Hardbite Cleats and Studs, the list goes on… For more info, please refer to www.flyfisheurope.com/simms

Scientific Anglers: MAGNITUDE SMOOTH

TROUT EXPERT

FLOATING CLEAR TIP

A true-to-weight-heavy line optimized for use above 50F/10C. This line can be fished below those temperatures, but will require stretching by hand to manage coils. DuraCoat leverages advanced dual-polymer design to optimize line stiffness, abrasion resistance, and slickness. The core is enveloped by a supple material, promoting minimal memory and strong adhesion, while the outer layer boasts a robust composition that significantly enhances slickness and abrasion resistance. Enhanced with EST+ slickness additive for unmatched durability, smoother shooting, and eco-friendly performance. Using naturally buoyant polymers, we’ve created the next generation of clear floating lines. The 10’ clear floating tip allows for the ultimate stealth when presenting flies to highly pressured fish. For more info: www.scientificanglers.com

Peux: REVO PRO NIPPERS PRECISION-MADE IN SWITZERLAND

Not just your average nipper, the Revo Pro comes with two tungsten carbide cutters, an integrated eyelet cleaner/ laquer remover, and a revolutionary threader for even the smallest of flies. We’ve tested the nipper, and found the little fly/eyelet holder and integrated threader tube to work perfectly (in sharp contrast to our eye-sight). In combination with ambidextrous ergonomics, and an intuitive, rugged, and durable design and material composition, these nippers are seriously worth checking out. We’ve been very impressed! For more info, please check out: www.peuxflyfishing.com

Primal Rod Co:

CHROMATIC DOUBLE-HANDERS

The new Chromatic double-handers are developed by Flyfish Europe in collaboration with Primal Rod Company for the Scandi style of fishing for anadromous fish like Atlantic salmon and seatrout. The rods, however, work equally well for swinging flies for big brows for that matter. The Chromatic range, which features 12,6 7-weight and a 13’ 8-weight, is affordable without sacrificing performance. The blanks are medium fast with great recovery and are finished off with nice hardware and good quality cork. Easy to cast, easy to fish, no BS just very good rods for a very good price. Having tested them in Scotland in April, we can whole-heartedly say that these rods provide A LOT of “bang for your buck”. For more info, please visit: www.flyfisheurope.com/primal

Grundéns:

TURBULENCE

INSULATED HOODIE

Built as cold-weather armor for those who fish when others run for cover, the Turbulence Insulated Hoodie delivers rugged protection without the bulk. Its windproof, water-repellent 320D nylon shell is backed with 80g G-Loft® Eco Plus insulation that stays warm even when wet. Gusseted sleeves, a modified raglan fit, and abrasion-resistant fabric provide unrestricted movement for hauling, casting, or climbing. The scuba-style hood seals out wind, while stretchwoven cuffs lock in heat and resist wear. Anti-snag, commercial-grade zippers and pull cords keep gear functioning under pressure, and the zippered interior and handwarmer pockets keep essentials secure. It compresses easily for travel and rebounds to form thanks to GLoft’s down-like loft. When the temps drop but the fish keep running, the Turbulence keeps you dry, warm, and ready for whatever’s next. Find out more about the Turbulence Insulated Hoodie here: www.grundens.com

Patagonia: R2® TECHFACE JACKET

Patagonia’s R2® TechFace midlayer is a superb blend of warmth and rugged practicality. The high-loft grid fleece traps heat while the TechFace surface resists wind and light moisture. Slim cut gives a sleek fit, though layering may feel tight. Excellent for cold storms, less so for heavy sweat. More at www.eu.patagonia.com

The Brand Buffet

Fly Fishing Calendar : 2026-EDITION NOW AVAILABLE

From the warm, genial perspective of David Lambroughton - international fly-fishing expert, writer, and photographer - comes an eye-catching array of lush photos of the people, the places, and the passion from the world of fly-fishing. Accompanied by delightful anecdotes and comforting words of wisdom, this calendar is the perfect gift for both fly-fishing hobbyists and pros alike. This square wall calendar is the ideal way to bring stunning photos and designs into your home–or as a gift for friends and family. The 12” x 12” calendar opens to a tall, 24-inch calendar to grace your wall with wonderful images of your favorite passion. For more information, please check out: www.instagram.com/davidlambroughton

Yeti: PANGA® BACKPACK

The YETI Panga® 28 has become one of our go-to pack for fly fishing. It’s completely waterproof. We’ve waded rivers and taken spray in the boat, and everything inside stays bone dry. The thick, rugged shell handles rough use, while the HydroLok zipper takes some effort but guarantees no leaks. Storage is simple—one big compartment—so I use pouches for fly gear. Straps and a waist belt make it comfortable even when loaded with waders or rain gear. YETI now offers three limited colours, including a Wetlands Camo that feels right at home on the water. For more information, please check out: www.eu.yeti.com

Simms:

MIDSTREAM HENLEY

From on-water coordinates to post-fishing hangouts, slip on the Midstream Henley that smooths the transitions with standout style and naturally inviting, temperature-regulating Lavalan® wool insulation. Features: Lavalan® Sport 40G wool lofted insulation, abrasionresistant nylon textiles used for both face and liner with C0 DWR finish for water resistance, durable nylon overlays on elbows and chest pocket, low-profile front snaps for comfort and easy on/off, YKK zippered chest pocket, and a low-profile, henley-style collar and cuff provide comfort when layering. For more information, please visit: www.flyfisheurope.com/simms

Book

review :

Bajio: ZAPATA FRAMES

This frame was named after the Zapata swamp in Cuba. This swamp is infested with permit, bonefish, snook, tarpon, snapper, and barracuda. They are keen to eat anything in front of them, and Bajio made this frame for you to feed them in. With integrated side shields and an arched brow design, you’ll see your target species long before your line leaves the reel. Fuelled by Lapis Technology, and built with ergo rubber nose pads, side shields, sun ledgers, and narrow temples these frames block false light and provides perfect vision when sight-fishing the flats. For more info: www.bajiosunglasses.com

RIVERS ALWAYS REACH THE SEA BY MONTE BURKE

Severely smitten with Monte Burke’s Lords of the Fly, we couldn’t wait to dive into his newest offering - and Rivers Always Reach the Sea delivers and then some. This exquisite collection: 31 essays and profiles spanning salmon rivers in Labrador to bonefish flats in the Bahamas, and even the gritty urban shores of New York does more than just map angling adventures. Burke’s prose is lean, polished, and deeply evocative, breathing life into landscapes, legends, and the why behind our restless return to the water. It’s less about fly patterns and casting techniques, and more about the why of angling - what binds enthusiasts to the rhythm of rivers and tides Burke doesn’t just tell stories; in Rivers Always Reach the Sea he beckons us into them. The book confirms why Monte Burke remains one of the most compelling voices in angling literature. For more info: www.simonandschuster.com/search/books/_/N-/Ntt-monte+burke

Scale of ATLANTIC SALMON Change

“For me, it’s the unpredictability. Nobody knows; anything can work at any time with any fly,” says Fred Campbell, about the allure of Atlantic salmon fishing. “So, you need to believe, and it’s always, always unpredictable.”

By TOM CHENEY

by TOM CHENEY and NICK HAWKINS

Photos

A passion for wild salmon runs close to the surface for Fred, who is the founder and CEO of Canadian media and apparel brand Hooké. In fact, Fred says, Atlantic salmon are at the core of the company: “When I learned about it and realized the great migration that it makes and what it physically looks like - like that it actually shines - and then I said, ‘I want to show this to other people.’ And it was the seed of the beginning of Hooké.”

Founded in 2012, Hooké has become a major player in the outdoors market, earning a reputation for blending a cool, laid-back style with real world functionality. A key ingredient in the winning recipe is inclusivity; Hooké’s marketing is adamant that salmon fishing - and the outdoors - are for everyone. It’s had a major effect: throughout Eastern Canada, as especially in Hooké’s home province of Quebec, more women and other minorities than ever are taking up fly fishing.

And while business is steady, wild Atlantic salmon are in trouble. Across the North Atlantic they’re suffering from hot, dry summers, climate-driven changes in the marine environment, and a multitude of negative effects from industrial sea-cage aquaculture. While long-term trends show some stability, recent years have brought record-low runs on many North American rivers, especially in the southern part of the range.

For years, Fred and Hooké have worked closely with conservation partners, like the Federation Quebecoise du Saumon Atlantique (FQSA) and Wildlife Habitat Canada. With Atlantic salmon in such a precarious situation, he knew he had to step up - in a big way.

Partnering with the Atlantic Salmon Federation (ASF) was a natural choice. Based in New Brunswick, ASF has been a leader in wild salmon conservation for over 75 years and operates throughout the North American range of Atlantic salmon. The organization runs on-theground conservation programs (like dam removals and other habitat restoration work), advocates for policies and fisheries management that protect wild salmon, and conducts cutting-edge research on wild salmon and their habitats.

Collaboration is a cornerstone of the ASF philosophy. Nathan Wilbur, who was recently appointed president of the Federation, notes, “Everything we do, we do with partners. There’s incredible strength in partnership, and we can accomplish so much more for wild salmon by working together.”

Fred’s approach is all about building community, sharing the passion for wild rivers, and increasing visibility. And that’s exactly what he and Hooké have brought to the collaboration. For example, working with ASF staff, the Hooké team designed a special line of clothing specifically for the partnership. With everything from hoodies to technical fly-fishing shirts, there’s something for everyone.

“Storytelling has always been at the heart of the Hooké brand”

Fred says, “We wanted to create branding where you can wear it and it’s your way of giving back. So, we did it to create more awareness, but also create income. For us it’s a way to say we care and we’re giving back. And also, they’re cool pieces of clothing. We’re working together to proudly wear it and talk about it. And I think it’s going to go down really well.” Unsurprisingly, the gear has been a huge

hit, and plans are already in the works for a second round.

Storytelling has always been at the heart of the Hooké brand, and filmmaking is clearly one of Fred’s passions. He’s produced dozens of films over the years but saw the collaboration with ASF as an opportunity for a new challenge. “I’ve done so many adventure films where you go out and you meet the people, you meet the guide, you talk about the place,” he says. “But it was time to say, let’s try something different, something to show all those people out there who are caring for the fish. So, it’s to share those stories, to continually inspire people to keep it going.”

The result is Scale of Change, a 44-minute documentary that takes viewers throughout salmon country - from Maine all the way to Greenland - telling the inspiring stories of people whose lives are intertwined with wild salmon and wild rivers. Featuring anglers, guides, researchers, filmmakers and artists, the film shows what Atlantic salmon mean to different people and just what’s at stake with the decline of the species.

And while the situation is urgent, Scale of Change ends with a distinct note of optimism: every action - even small ones - add up and together they make a real difference for Atlantic salmon.

When Scale of Change went on tour in spring 2025, it picked up speed quickly. Hooké and ASF originally planned about a half dozen screenings, but word spread and requests for showings poured in. The tour ballooned, and the film eventually showed in locations across Quebec and Atlantic Canada, as well as in Vermont and Washington state. “I think it’s going to spark a flame and it’s going to keep burning,” says Fred. “It’s the beginning of something bigger.”

Wild Atlantic salmon face some big obstacles. But Fred’s happy to be doing his part and knows it’s making a difference.

“I’ve never seen such momentum,” he says. “There are young people getting on board, young teams, and we understand each other now, and say ‘let’s get things moving now, let’s get the community together.’”

On ASF’s part, enthusiasm for the partnership with Hooké is high. It’s been an incredible success, reaching thousands of new people with conservation messaging. Going forward, the two organizations have committed to even more collaboration, with more films and tours, support for emerging storytellers, and co-branded clothing. Nathan sees it as a vital part of the long-term plan for salmon conservation.

“We’ve got a real challenge ahead of us, but ASF is up to the task. We can absolutely turn the tide for wild salmon,” Nathan says. “We can’t, however, do it without a community of people who care. Hooké is helping us grow and strengthen that community, and together we’re ensuring a bright future for wild salmon and wild rivers.”

The Dorado Pilgrims of Itati Argentina

Most avid fly anglers are familiar with Salminus Brasiliensisthe extraordinary and unique freshwater dorado. Many know of the remarkable Tsimane fly fishery - the celebrated dorado fishery deep in the Bolivian jungle. However, fewer will know that long before this remote and magical fly fishery was discovered, the pioneering fly anglers of Northern Argentina were targeting the big, bruising dorado of their own local river.

By MATT HARRIS

The Parana is the birthplace and cradle of fly fishing for freshwater dorado. Itati, a humble farming village on Argentina’s remote northern border seems an unlikely spot to find a spectacular basilica, stretching fully eighty-eight metres into the sky. The vast dome of this extraordinary edifice wouldn’t seem out of place gracing the skyline of Florence or Sienna yet instead it stands sentinel over this scruffy and utterly unremarkable little one-horse town.

Religious pilgrims from all over the world flock here to worship at the Basílica Nuestra Senora De Itati, but the ‘duomo’ is also a revered landmark to those who make another long pilgrimage, to chase the golden treasure of the Parana River, that flows in its shadow.

The Parana meanders down out of Southern Brazil and winds its way across the endless plains of Argentina before emptying into the Southern Atlantic. It is a vast river - the second largest in South America, second only to the Amazon herself. Its broad waters teem with fish - surubi catfish, sabalo, pira pita, pacu and - of course - magnificent dorado that can reach thirty and occasionally even forty pounds in weight.

The fishing is challenging and varied. The dorado can be targeted by blind casting to trees and bankside structure, by swinging flies over midwater boulders and - best of all - by hunting them by sight on the shallow, clearwater flats in a style reminiscent of saltwater bonefishing. The fish are no mugs. Occasionally they go on wild feeding sprees - most often around dawn and dusk - and catching themeven the big ones - can be like shelling peas. Mostly, however, they are a stimulating and satisfyingly challenging adversary.

A word or two about kit

Big baitfish patterns are the way to go, presented on anything from a full floating line to a fast-sinking shooting head. Expect to use a nine or ten-weight rod to allow you to really boss even the biggest flies and fish.

The local favourite pattern is the celebrated Andino Deceiver, but a number of large patterns that offer a large profile will get the job done. I like to use big, broad-shouldered patterns tied by my friend Tomek Bogdanawizc at Pike Terror Flies. I’ve caught a lot of apex predators with these patterns and they give me great confidence. Consider using one of Paolo Pacchiarini’s wiggle tail attachments to allow you to present an even bigger profile, particularly in deep water.

Poppers like James Christmas’s NYAP can work if you are willing to try them, and the takes can be explosive.

The dorado’s razor-sharp teeth mean that 60lb wire is obligatory, and the fish’s bony mouth means that hooks should be kept needle sharp. Make sure you keep a hook sharpener or diamond file close to hand.

Pacu in the backwaters

As well as chasing the Parana’s spectacular dorado, the avid fly angler can also target the hard-fighting omnivorous Pacu as they patrol the backwaters and island lagoons looking for berries and fruits that have fallen from the riverside trees.

Flies are simple colourful silicon balls that mimic the various berries and fruits that tumble into the water from the bankside trees, and the technique is simply to drop your presentation close to the cruising Pacu and allow the ‘fly’ to free fall through the water column.

They are well worth targeting and offer a stimulating diversion when the dorado are refusing to play ball.

Suinda Lodge

Be in no doubt - the dorado fishing on the Parana can be tough, especially when the river rises after rainfall in the headwaters. Long days in the fiendish heat can take their toll, but the rewards are surely worth it.

If you want to tackle these magnificent fish, take my advice. Stay at Suinda lodge, a five-star home from home offering crisp white sheets, frosty air-conditioning and all the sybaritic comforts you could wish for after a long hot day on the water. Suinda also offers some of the best food and drink that you will ever enjoy anywhere.

Despite their appearance, Pacu will astonish you with their turn of speed and extraordinary fighting prowess.

Pablo Calo and his excellent staff provide a warm, informal ambiance and keep your glass topped up with icy gin and tonic or delicious plum coloured Malbec. In the evening, laughter and the intoxicating aroma of roast lamb and thick flame-grilled steaks fills the air, as anglers share their tall tales from the river and recharge in readiness for another day’s battle.

The day is divided into two sessions, with a welcome postlunch siesta in between. Being out at dawn can be intoxicating, but there is something particularly magical about fishing into the evening,

Across the river, smoke billows up from the Paraguayan farmlands into the thick evening air, softening the sunset and lending the wide Argentinian skies a rich, rosy hue.

“There is something particularly magical about fishing into the evening”

Behind us, the little town starts to light up in readiness for the oncoming night. Music is in the air, and the lights of Itati’s vast basilica sparkle in the gathering twilight, their reflections dancing on the darkening waters of the Parana.

Golden endings

Once more, I take up station on the bow of the skiff and do as my excellent guide Pablo advises, pitching my fly towards the thickly wooded banks of the island. I draw the line tight and bring the big baitfish imitation flickering back over the sharply defined drop-off, the deeper, darker water still visible in the low evening light.

Without warning, the line comes up abruptly and savagely tight. I set hard and all the long hours of casting and retrieving are suddenly forgotten as a huge golden dorado, that my imagination has barely dared to conjure, clambers up into the last golden embers of the day.

We go at it hard. Trusting my knots and the stout 60lb wire trace, I play the giant fish with ruthless intent, desperate not to lose it. The dorado rattles up into the air once again, a gleaming golden trophy tantalisingly out of reach. I say a silent prayer and cling on tight.

“I say a silent prayer and cling on tight”

Slowly, my adversary’s bulldogging runs become shorter, less ferocious. The fish attempts to jump again, but it is a tired, laboured effort that tells me that I am starting to gain the upper hand.

The fish attempts another surging drive for the sanctuary of the sunken trees, but I hold him hard and as he kites around, I get my first real look at him. There, deep in the bottle-green waters of the Parana is my prize - a sparkling great golden bullet of a thing that looks like no other fish on earth.

Pablo dips his cavernous landing net quietly into the water and after a few last, desperate lunges, I draw the fish to him. I hold my breath as our adversary makes one last bid for freedom and then, finally, he is ours.

Pablo lets out an infectious whoop of delight and congratulates me with a high five and a fierce hug. “It’s a beast!!” he cries. I peer into the net and marvels at our prize. A great hulking fuselage of twenty-four carat golden treasure - a mean malevolent killing machine.

Pablo holds the fish up for the camera and in the last golden rays of the sunset, it is a truly astonishing sight. This is the fish I have travelled over 6000 miles and made a million casts to catch. It has all been worth it.

If you want to join Matt fishing at Suinda in 2026, contact him at: mattharris@mattharris.com

Suinda is a Nervous Waters lodge: www.nervouswaters.com/the-lodges/suinda-lodge/ Contact Santi at: santiago@nervouswaters.com or Nick Zoll at nickmonica@nervouswaters.com

THE ALL-NEW HYPERSPEED M8

Buckle up. As we’ve said - the performance benchmark for a fly reel is retrieve rate per ounce. There’s no downside to high retrieve rate other than the extra weight. Imagine an 8 weight reel the diameter of a 12, envision gobbling up 14” of line per rotation. Now stop wondering and try to keep up with the Hyperspeed M8. Coming in at less than an ounce heavier than its Litespeed M8 counterpart, this radical design maximizes line pick up unlike any reel we have ever dreamed up. Every inch of the frame and spool has been meticulously CNC machined with even material distribution along critical load paths. Ensuring unrivaled strength, stability, and lightness despite its impressive size. So light you might forget it’s there, but commanding enough to demand attention. Find a new gear with this reel that’s primed to keep pace with even the fastest fish you can find.

”Must Watch” VIDEO

ASTOVE - FLY FISHING BLISS IN THE SEYCHELLES

By IN THE LOOP MAGAZINE

Astove Atoll’s shallow lagoon, jagged coastline and endless flats surrounded by sheer drop-offs provide unique and versatile hunting grounds for a myriad of gamefish emblematic of the vast Indian Ocean. Besides GTs, Astove Atoll boasts trophy-sized bonefish, bluefin trevally, triggerfish, barracuda, milkfish and Indopacific permit. And if one ventures offshore, one can catch yellowfin tuna, dogtooth tuna, wahoo, groupers, sailfish and much, much more – just meters from the coral reef edge. Astove Atoll is managed by Alphonse Fishing Co. For more information, please refer to: www.alphonsefishingco.com

elencuentroflyfishing.com

PHEASANT TAIL NYMPH Fly Tying

The original Pheasant Tail Nymph was created by legendary English fly tyer and fisherman, Frank Sawyer, around 1930. He designed the Pheasant Tail to imitate the small mayfly nymphs on the southern English river Avon, where he was river keeper. Sawyer’s original pattern used only pheasant tail fibers and fine copper wire instead of normal tying thread, to give the pattern extra weight. The modern variants of the PTN, that we are familiar with, including the one illustrated here, bare little resemblance to the original.

By BARRY ORD CLARKE

With only three materials, and tying thread needed for this pattern, it still helps to choose the right materials. At first glance, one pheasant tail feather looks like any other pheasant tail feather, or does it? Take a good look at a few cock pheasant centre tail feathers side by side, and you will see they are very different! Not only does the background colour and shading on each tail differ immensely but the black chevrons vary from light to dark and thin to thick. But probably the most

important factor is the fibre length. Normally the best marked feathers with the longest fibre length are found center top of the cock bird centre tail. The Pheasant Tail Nymph is a great model nymph, that meaning, that it has the shape, form and proportions for a generic nymph, you can apply the exact same tying technique used here, just change the colours, materials and size, to imitate and represent many other nymphs found on the trout’s menu.

Hook: Long shank nymph hook size 8-16

Tying Thread: Brown

Tail: Cock pheasant tail fibers

Abdomen: Cock pheasant tail fibers

Rib: Fine or medium copper wire

Thorax: Peacock herl

Wing case: Cock pheasant tail fibers

Legs: Cock pheasant tail fibers

II New 2025 II

We proudly introduce Headway Strategic Bellies — a more compact evolution of the widely acclaimed Headway Bellies. The tapers on Headway Strategic feature the same powerful rear-weighted design as the original Headway, ensuring effortless rod loading and smooth Spey casting.

One of our primary goals was to create tapers that eliminate hinging during both the back cast and forward cast. Hinging can sap energy from the loop, diminishing performance during the anchoring of the back cast and the execution of the forward cast. With Headway Strategic, you’ll experience seamless energy transfer and precision with every cast.

NEW ZEALAND

Endless Choices, Endless Possibilities

I think if you are an addict and living with your addiction, the best thing to do is to just admit it. I’ve been addicted to fly fishing in New Zealand since my first 6 week honeymoon trip in 1980 and by 1990 I gave up on the shorter trips and have just made N.Z. my winter home for 4 to 6 months every year and pretty much the best part of the trout seasons down there for the past 34 years. I have never fished anywhere in the world that has hit all my buttons quite like N.Z…..the nicest people in the world, clean air and clear waters, stunningly beautiful fish and I could not have ever made a living impersonating an outdoor writer/photographer without it.

By DAVID LAMBROUGHTON

So if you haven’t been down there it can be rather overwhelming to say the least taking in the big picture. From about the city of Hamilton (1 hour south of Auckland) to the bottom on the South Island, practically every river or stream that you cross is Trout Water and the old John Kent Books (“North Island Trout Fishing” and “South Island Trout Fishing) will list well over 500 trout streams. Add to this, countless little tarns, spring ponds, and lakes large and small, makes it hard not to feel like an ant on a huge picnic table looking for the cookies and not sure which direction to head. But the choices are there.

If you want to go deluxe, the top-end lodges are there; Poronnui Lodge, east of Lake Taupo on the North Island, or on the South Island, Owen River Lodge near Nelson, Fiordland Lodge near TeAnau, Blanket Bay Lodge on Lake Wakatipu not far from Queenstown, and others. These are popular with older couples who like everything to be perfect, but come with a bit of structure, like getting off the waters in time for cocktail hour and dressing for dinner, and maybe

having to make a little idle chit chat with some fat guy from Texas and his surgically enhanced 2nd or 3rd wife and biting your tongue at times.

Door #2… .Hiring a really good fishing guides and splitting the costs; rental car and accommodations, etc., with a buddy. This also adds lots of flexibility to the trip because most of the guides roam freely with their clients and make the best calls on where to fish and where to stay, depending on the conditions; water flows, weather, besides some superb fish spotting, and not blowing their cool after you blow some huge fish.

On this subject, the legendary retired guide Tony Entwistle was always the best. His tone of voice would not change and he would just say, “I bet there will be nice fish in the next pool.”

As for guides I really like, besides the two excellent gals I mentioned in “Kiwi Gals Who Fish and Guide”, I like Ronan Creane of Alexandra, Dean Whaaga of Riverdale and his Mataura River Lodge, and Paul Macandrew of Wanaka.

Wanaka would also be the best place you to leave your non fishing partner or wife for the fishing day as it’s all there; shopping, eating, biking, hiking, fabulous scenery, etc. You’ll want to move there.

Door #3….Just wing it on your own, although I would still recommend starting your trip with a day or two of being guided to learn how the game is played and it will really enhance the rest of your trip and you’ll fish with a lot more confidence, plus getting some good ideas for your flexible itinerary.

In the end, if you do these trips long enough, you’ll likely become an habitual visitor with your routine of visiting 15 or 20 or so of your favourite streams every summer that have become like old friends that you visit every year. Each pool will hold memories for you… the big fish that got away and those that didn’t. You’ll have your favourite places to stay every summer and cottages you like to rent and knowing the names of the farm dogs that love to crunch the Rack of Lamb

Bones and lick the dinner plates, the pre-wash I call it.

You will also have learned not to rush around trying to fish too many rivers, with excessive packing and unpacking. There’s lots to be said to find the areas you love best, fill the refrigerator with good food and settle in for a week or so, where a tank of gas can last all week.

Finding Your Path, North Island…

A very high percentage of visiting overseas anglers choose the South Island. It has more rivers, spectacular scenery and a lot more elbow room; it’s 1/3 larger than the North Island with less than 1/3 the population. Add to this, the famous backcountry rivers to helicopter into, like the Rangitikei and Ngaruroro, are largely off the menu now as the main helicopter company (Heliskia) does so much business with Poronui Lodge that it doesn’t want to add any more competition to these waters. On top of that there are now “Landing Fees” and permits, etc., that have turned them into the playgrounds for the wealthy.

But you could try early and late in the season or over the Xmas Holidays when the lodge traffic is temporarily very low. I used to love going in around Dec. 22nd and getting picked up a week or so later and using a wonderful campsite where the Mangamarie Stream joins the ’Tiki and will always consider that to be truly one of the all time great places in the Trout Fishing World. But all is not lost.

When I’m asked for advice on fishing the North Island, my answer is quite simple… Check into the Tongariro River Motel in Turangi for a week, which is located on the southern end of beautiful Lake Taupo. This is the dead centre of the North Island which helps to cut down on the long drives to get to the waters and the owners, Ross and Pop Baker are the perfect motel owners; friendly, funny, and super helpful with visiting anglers in this historical fishing town on the Tongariro River.

March into November, the Taupo Rainbows run up the river, just like our Steelhead, and will average about 5 pounds and it’s a very well managed fishery that is not in any kind of decline. The local biologist told me that the total annual run is in the 40 to 50,000 range and it’s where lots of Kiwi Fishing Guides fish in the winter.

As for the summer fishing when most of us like to show up, there are still lots of resident fish in the river and more that come out of the lake for the summer Cicada Season, including some jumbo smart browns, especially as you get closer to the lake.

For shear numbers, the Tongariro River is in a class all by itself in N.Z. With each bump of rain from

Ross Baker knows every inch of everything, including some smaller streams, has bikes to loan out for the biking trails along the river, as well as a couple of WaterMaster Boats to fish the nearby Lake Otamangakau, considered one of the very best stillwater fisheries in the country. Also, Ross can organize some fishing guides that can take you into some magical places off the beaten track.

The South Island…too many choices…

Roderick Haig-Brown wrote, “I like to fish waters that are open to all men and not the privileged few” and nothing in the entire fishing world would epitomize this more than the South Island.

When the early settlers from England, Scotland, and Ireland arrived, they made sure, unlike in their homelands, that the fishing and hunting opportunities would be open to everyone. So most of the rivers and streams have a “Queen’s Chain” that lets anglers basically follow the high water mark up the waterways. But if you need to cross someone’s land to access the water, it’s always a good idea to ask permission first. It’s really a system based on civility and honour and when you see a car parked along a river you’ll usually see a sign or message on the dashboard, saying “fishing upstream” or “fishing downstream” which means they will be fishing up to their car as you always fish upstream. So, when you run into the parked car of someone who’s fishing, then you want to drive upstream a few miles so you won’t impede someone’s fishing day. So, the whole idea is that you and your buddy can fish all day over undisturbed fish and not seeing anyone else. That, along with the sight-fishing, is the real charm of the South Island, besides the nicest local people you’ll ever meet.

So how much of the South Island you want to bite off depends on how much time you have. I like to recommend doing a loop so you rarely ever have to retrace your steps and every day filled with new scenery. If you have lots of time, why not start at the top in the lovely city of Nelson that gets several flights a day from Auckland? For a shorter loop, start in Christchurch and head west to the coast, and if you just have a week or so, just fly to Queenstown, the Aspen/Lake Tahoe of N.Z, and have at it.

You can also do the loops in either direction, but let’s just start at the top. From Nelson, a fine place to get over the jet lag for a day or two, you want to head southwest to the town of Murchinson, which is surrounded by rivers, just like Reefton is a bit further south. Both these towns are perfectly situated for nearby easily accessible fishing on famous rivers that the guide book drool over. Next stop is the coolest town on the west coast, Hokitika, who residents are the prodigy of the adventuresome and artistic types who moved west

until they ran out of West. For us fishing mad anglers, it’s also known for the nearby spring creeks.

Now heading south from Hokitika along Hwy 6 to the town of Haast, is one of the most remote areas in New Zealand; 175 miles of mountains, ferns, and lots of rivers that drain the 25 to 30 FEET of rain that this part of the country gets annually and the human population would be well under 3,000.

As for the fishing, it’s something quite different; swinging small baitfish streamers in the very lower reaches of the rivers before they enter the Tasman Sea for Estuary Browns that move up and down with the tides. Unlike Rainbows that need some transition time moving from salt water to fresh, like our Steelhead, it’s effortless for the Browns. So I do this for a few days every summer and I watch the tide charts. I like to start with a low tide as the river draws better and then meet an incoming tide. It’s a free ride upstream for browns who will feed in the shallow flats.

I wear waders for this as, like we do for steelhead, you can spend a lot of time swinging your flies as you work down long pools. It can be quite exciting at times; hearing the waves crashing into the shore and watching the bird life as your swinging fly starts meeting the small waves coming up the pools and making sure the hovering terns don’t get ahold of them. Most of the fish will be 3 to 6 pounds, but occasionally larger. The rivers just south of Haast, with strong populations of whitebait, can produce fish in the 10 to 15+ pound range.

From the town of Haast Hwy. 6 turns east east as you drive over Haast Pass and be sure to stop and have a look off the last bridge to cross it and you’ll see house-sized boulders that get moved around during high water periods. Then over the pass the countryside changes rapidly and is much drier and better for sheep farming as you drive down the Makarora River Valley, a decent trout river by the way and you’ll see a mailbox that say, “Cedar Lodge” which has a long history of cele-

brated anglers and a short helicopter west ride to the Cascade River, among others, like the Wilkin and the Young, both of which you could hike up or backpack way up them. The next stop is the town of Wanaka, home of the well-known fishing guide, Paul Macandrew, and if he’s busy Ian Cole, with his wonderful sense of humour, would be a good choice as well. These guys know every inch of everything.

When you leave Wanaka for Queenstown, be sure to take the Crown Range Road. It’s shorter and much more scenic and such a view when go over the top and look down at the Kawarau River Valley and the wineries clinging to the hillsides as you near Queenstown, home of the well loved fishing guide Shelen Scout Boyes. Also, if you are wandering around the downtown, be sure to drop into the Fishing and Hunting Store to see if Cate Lee is in. She could be quite helpful with your questions and her Instagram Postings, like with the previous gals I’m mentioned, are just loaded with fish that can make you weak in the knees.

Thank God they carefully release them all, as do practically everyone that comes to New Zealand for the trout fishing. You just don’t see people carrying any dead fish around.

From Queenstown you head south, still on Hwy. 6 along Lake Wakatipu, N.Z. third largest lake, and you’ll follow the heavily fished Upper Mataura River and leave Hwy. 6 and take the shortcut to Mossburn and Brackenhall is a nice place for lunch or picking up some sandwiched for your fishing day. From here you are about an hour to the town of TeAnau, home of probably the hardest guide to book in the entire country, Dean Bell. He’s clearly the best fisherman I’ve ever seen anywhere in world and even when I floated him down the Dean River and the Skeena Rivers here in B.C., he just put on a clinic on how to do it. So TeAnau is worth a few days and I like the Lakeside Motel, but there is also a Holiday Park as there are all over N.Z. and their motto is, “Accommodations to Fit Everyone’s Budget.” It’s a cool place and the lovely Eglington River that you follow for about 30 miles on your way

to Milford Sound is gorgeous and has both browns and rainbows.

Now from TeAnau, I’m sorry but you have to retrace your drive back to Mossburn on Hwy. 94, but on the way you’ll cross an access road that will take to the South Mavora Lake, which is super popular with those on the Stillwater Circuit as well as a nice fallback for heading to when the rivers blow out with some rain. Much of it is quite wadeable for spotting cruising trout. Back to the main road east you carry on to Lumsden as you cross the famous Oreti River and then you are not far from Riversdale, the home of Dean Whaaga and his Mataura River Lodge. He’s been guiding 35+ years and he’s chosen that area for a reason to base himself out of, trout water in all directions and he roams widely, and the Mataura is quite fishable all the way to the town of Gore and then after it turns south to the town of Mataura and beyond. A total of well over 100 miles of trout water in total starting just above to hamlet of Garston. There’s a reason for the giant trout statue in Gore with the title of, “The Brown Trout Capital of the World.”

So now the loop turns north and from Gore and you take Hwy. 90 to Rees Junction and then make a left onto Hwy. 8 and follow the Clutha River to Alexandra, the home of the heavily booked guide, Ronan Creane, who goes where few others dare to and you wouldn’t want to be his Toyota Land Cruiser. During the season Ronan goes everywhere and has a knack for catching large fish. That’s why he’s in my annual Fly Fishing Dreams Calendar most years holding up some monster brown trout. From Alexandra you stay on Hwy. 8 and head over the Lindis Pass and cross the legendary Ahuriri River before you shortly arrive in the very fishy town of Omarama that might remind you a bit of Ennis, Montana with the Madison River flowing through town. If any place begs for a longer stay, this would be it; rivers, streams, spring ponds, old river oxbows that restocks in the high water, and big lakes like Lake Benmore that is quite wadable off the mouth of the Ahuriri for cruising fish. This area all the way up to the town of Twizel could keep you busy all summer. From here, you are only about a

4-hour drive back to Christchurch and if you have the time and need another kick at the can, you might want to stop in the town of Methven, home of Nigel Birt. I first met Nigel in the late 80’s when he was about 13 years old and was the resident fly tier and the camp chore boy at Lake Brunner Lodge on the West Coast. Later, he got into guiding big time and I introduced him to Mike McClelland of The Best of New Zealand, who later called me to profusely thank me big time for the connection. How’s that for a guiding recommendation?

So now you’re are about an hour’s drive to Christchurch and if you’ve started this loop in Nelson, it’s better to just pay the drop-off fee as there really isn’t much fishing to recommend between Christchurch and Nelson. If you do this loop it will give you a nice overview of South Island. Your map book will be filled with notes; the places you love, the cottages to rent, the names and phone numbers of new friends and farmers and contacts, because you’ll be coming back.

Book a (female) guide

More and more, you see women becoming professional fishing guides around the world and they are bringing their fun and fresh enthusiasm to the profession and the South Island of New Zealand is blessed to have two really good ones. This is Shelen Scout Boyes and her story is a good one; Young gal from a small town in California who loved fishing, meets the love of her life, the well known Kiwi Angler Connor Andrew, moves to Queenstown, and 8 years later runs the fly fishing department of the new Patagonia Store there and hosts all kinds of Women Fly Fishing Events, and if you check her Instagram Postings (@troutscoutlife) you’ll see an obscene number of big fish. Her website is: www. troutscoutlimited.com and she is just what you want in a fishing guide. She lives it, breathes it, and loves it. She and Connor are currently chasing Steelhead here in British Columbia, as they do every October.

Part Two of this dynamic duo is Shelen’s buddy Hannah Clement who lives in Christchurch and works at the Hunting & Fishing Store there. Like Queenstown, Christchurch is an excellent place to start a fishing trip and the rivers northwest of the city are well known for producing some of the largest fish every year, especially on the “Mouse Years.” Like Shelen, her Instagram Postings (@she’s_on_ the_fly) are filled with huge fish and her website is: www.shesonthefly.co.nz

So if it’s your first trip to New Zealand hiring a guide, even if you plan to later fish on your own, makes very good sense, especially at the beginning of your trip. You’ll learn how the game is played, how fish are spotted, and you’ll fish with a lot more confidence for the rest of the trip, especially having your guide put some “X’s” on your map.

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