Pizza&core International N 122

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n.122 October

2022

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editorials

Italian pizza makers, 100% best

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hat pizza is one of the most famous and consumed foods in the world is a fact, that pizza is the creative product of Italians and Neapolitans in particular is another irrefutable fact. Having said that, the question is: how much Italianity is there in pizza around the world? To answer this question we could consider the TOP 100 best pizzerias in the world, where in the top 100 there are 40 establishments operating in Italy. Only 40No, because if we browse through the top 100 list we find that many premises, although located abroad, are proudly run by Italians, such as the Peppe Pizzeria restaurant in Paris headed by Giuseppe Cutra-

ro, who also won the title of Pizzaiolo of the Year. Together with Cutraro, many other talented colleagues operate abroad, who are 100% Italian and where foreign professionals are present, almost all of them have had a Made in Italy training. So, even in the international arena, Italian pizza continues to write history, thanks to the resourcefulness of our operators, their ability to transfer product culture without compromise and holding high the flag of a quality product, made with the mix of tradition and innovation that made Italian pizza become that phenomenon that today everyone recognises and eats all over the world. 3


the

interview

TERESA IORIO A volcano of skill and emotions

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orn into art, 19th out of 20 children, her father Ernesto was a Maestro Pizzaiolo.

When did Teresa Iorio become a pizza maker? «I can say that I have always been a pizza maker. I started at the age of 12. After finishing school, I immediately had to start working. Unfortunately, my parents couldn’t send me to school, a necessary renunciation to get ahead. My parents used to take me to their pizzeria right after the school day .So it is not surprising that I have this great passion. In my future I saw only one thing, or rather two things: to become a good pizza maker and to honour and gratify my parents. My dream was to work and to be able to ensure that neither my father nor my mother lacked anything». Tell us about the biggest emotion of your pizza-maker career. «My biggest emotion was when I won the

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the

interview

edited by Direttore Giuseppe Rotolo

2015 Caputo Trophy for Pizza STG. It was a really strong emotion, believe me. That great joy, together with the tears that everyone saw on that podium, was first of all a statement to my parents: “ “mum, dad I won, I did it”. Yes, after many years of sacrifice, I had made it. I am sure they are proud of me, even my mum from up there! A beautiful victory I dedicated to my mother and my father Ernesto who taught me the art. Every time I roll out a pizza I think of him».

What would you say to a young girl who wants to take up this job, who wants to become a pizza chef? «I would tell her “Don’t do it, don’t do it”, because you would work on Saturday, Sunday, Monday, you always have to work. (An engaging laugh breaks out ed.). Of course, it’s a tiring job, so you need to be passionate about it, and also love this job a lot. You know, it’s a bit like getting married, because becoming a pizza maker is like a marriage. It’s a wonderful thing. When you love someone, you marry them for the very reason you love them, and I married pizza». These words show how work and feeling live behind a technique. The passion for a family trade. Teresa is a tornado and her passion for pizza is an essential element of her life. You can feel all of this when you walk through the doors of her pizzeria Le Figlie di Iorio.

What happened to your life as a pizza chef after your success in 2015? «After winning the Caputo Trophy, I was overwhelmed by a tsunami! Soon after, the Molino Caputo company took me to Las Vegas. But believe me, I was like in the clouds, I didn’t realise that moment of success. Then in 2017, I got back into the game and won the trophy for the Fried Pizza category. It wasn’t until I arrived in Las Vegas for the second time that I thought to myself, “My goodness, did I get here?!” A tsunami had swept over my life, I had no idea this could happen».

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psicology in the pizzeria edited by Lucrezia RENNA

Eating with the eyes Appearance matters too

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ristotle said that the sense of sight has to be considered the most important of man’s senses. Today, a dish requires aesthetics in order to relate different sensory spheres: what is beautiful to the eye may seem better when tasted. Nowadays, unlike in the past when the scenic sets

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were remarkable and almost monumental, the search for simplification and deconstruction of forms that do not suffocate the dish but enhance its ingredients is prevalent. The art of decorating and presenting a dish opens up countless possibilities for the creativity, imagination and style of kitchen workers. The chef becomes an


psicologia in pizzeria

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psychology in the pizzeria

edited by Lucrezia RENNA

artist, a seeker of beauty. An image reaches our brain before taste and smell, thus generating an instinctive reaction. In this way, the eye takes its share, overriding the human perceptual system and intercepting goodness even before tasting it. Aesthetics is not a narcissistic fetish, but becomes a sensory amplifier of taste, the multi-sensory key that chefs and wait staff use in the form of performance art. A dish is first eaten with the eyes. Usually, the first thing we do after enjoying the beauty of the food we are served is the urge to share images on the most popular networks, transforming the food itself into a strong element of communication. Consequently, the restaurateur must make an “effort” to be ever more creative and original. And so the project takes its shape: serving, decorating, combining colours, enhancing shapes, studying textures and proportions becomes a work of rigour, study, technique and above all rules. A chef has to be original and stylish in order to give the dish his or her own personality. The dish becomes a palette in which beauty and goodness come together in perfect harmony to create a gastronomic masterpiece. Food thus becomes a story to be told, a gift to be

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shared and appreciated. But beauty alone without goodness is devoid of truth. Beauty cannot be separated from goodness, as well as from organoleptic and nutritional aspects. Beautiful food, in order to be also good, must necessarily first of all start with an agricultural act, selecting excellent raw materials and products with processes and criteria respectful of the environment and local traditions, favouring biodiversity and fair-trade agriculture. In this way, the cycle of beauty is fulfilled: from the hands of farmers and fishermen, the ingredients undergo the skilful care of the chef, and then become tasty and captivating dishes, so as to give the customer an unforgettable experience.



The Gi.Metal box that is revolutionizing the world of delivery

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he number of catering businesses investing in quality is growing steadily, as well as those that are developing a structured project for home delivery. RedBox is Gi.Metal’s solution to support these activities. RedBox is a heated box for the home delivery of pizzas and more, with the same quality as the product consumed at the restaurant table. RedBox is equipped with a patented temperature and

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humidity control system that guarantees the maintenance of heat and fragrance even in long distance deliveries. «Redbox represents an important boost in quality and innovation for our delivery solutions - Marco D’Annibale, CEO Gi.Metal, explains - I am convinced that it will be the trend for the coming years. Once the customer experiences the possibility of receiving at home a pizza as good as the one eaten in the restaurant, it will be hard for him to give it up.».


company Heat diffusers Thermostat

heat retention

In fact, according to Deloitte research, the restaurant sector in 2021 has grown by 15.6% over 2020 and is focusing on quality and delivery. In terms of quality, Italian catering ranks first in Europe and sixth in the world both in terms of value (31 billion, +14% over 2020) and penetration of quality restaurants. At the same time, delivery is proving to be an increasingly expanding sector, growing by 53.7% in our country in 2021 compared to 2020. Restaurateurs aware of this trend will no longer continue to suffer the delivery service but with RedBox they can finally make it efficient and effective for their business. The immediate and tangible benefits of RedBox in short Improved quality of the delivered product

Condensate leaking

Redbox is available in two models, 10 and 12 pizza boxes, up to 50 cm, and can be mounted on cargo scooters, both electric and petrol, as well as in cars, with a special adaptation kit. In both versions it is powered by a dedicated lithium battery that guarantees great autonomy.

Optimisation of outputs with multiple deliveries in one shift saving time and fuel costs Improved business with increased earnings and more satisfied and loyal customers. FIND OUT MORE

Visit the new Gi.Metal website now!

www.gimetal.it

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azienda

Fiesta Fries the fries of joy

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oth consumers and chefs around the world are constantly looking for inspiration and novelty. Similarly, Farm Frites, which produces potato crisps and other potato products, is also constantly looking for new options. After discovering naturally coloured potato varieties, in 2021 Farm Frites launched its new product based on these special potato varieties: “Fiesta Fries”. Inspired by a Peruvian Andes treasure All potatoes originally come from Peru and, in Europe, we usually use mainly white and yellow-fleshed varieties. Today, Farm Frites also uses potato varieties in other colours for its new Fiesta Fries. These varieties come from the Peruvian Andes where they are commonly used. Farm Frites has selected the best varieties and now grows them under ideal conditions in Europe, for use in Fiesta Fries. 100% natural colours, no additives Fiesta Fries allow you to responsibly add more colour to

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company

your dish with all-natural and beautiful purple, pink and yellow fries. Fiesta Fries are pre-fried in sunflower oil. And the taste? Chef Ivo Schellen: «Table companions expect a sweet taste because of the colour, but are happily surprised to discover that they taste like normal potatoes». Chef Frank van de Voort also received enthusiastic reactions from those who tasted them: «Fiesta Fries are reminiscent of organic or ‘forgotten’ vegetables. But they are actually real potatoes! Both the taste of Fiesta Fries and their history are appreciated». 1001 menu ideas With Fiesta Fries, catering professionals can offer their customers the variety and the delicious experience they are looking for. For instance, Fiesta Fries go very well with Mexican dishes, but are also suitable for various seasons and festivities such as Halloween and Easter. According to Schellen: «Fiesta Fries really add a touch of beauty. I immediately thought of all possible applications. As loaded fries, with a nice mince pie and herbs, or to be served at lunchtime sprinkled with Parmesan cheese». Van de Voort also considers these chips an ideal base for loaded fries: «They are a great addition, if you allow your guests to choose between different chips and toppings. Make your own loaded fries». For further information, please contact us via the contact form: https://www.farmfrites.com/it-it/contatti/

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authorbeers

a cura di Stefano Baladda

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The settlers’ beers

It is definitely the beer that, despite the trend, has established itself among enthusiasts and the general public alike, the beer that has made a revolution, the hop revolution: we are talking about theIPA! The East India Company The British occupation of India began between late 1757 and the first half of the nineteenth century, through the East India Company, a commercial maritime enterprise similar to the French and Dutch ones, formed to exploit trade after Vasco de Gama had opened to Europe the gateway to the East. The exchange of products was flourishing, but if there were no problems for the tea brought to England, it was not the same for the beer that arrived in India. Beer brewed in England and commercialised in India suffered from the long voyage by ship and the tropical climate to such an extent that it easily perished. It’s easy to imagine the reactions of the English colonists to those pints that looked like sewage dumped into the Thames. Extra hops British brewers were already aware that for a longerlasting and more stable beer, more hops were needed. By intuition or luck, the first to exploit this knowledge

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was George Hodgson of Bow Brewery, who first produced what was later renamed India Ale, a hopped-up and more alcoholic version of the more traditional British Pale Ale. From India to the American revolution The IPA is a symbol, not only for its past but above all for its present. It is the beer that has brought the world of hops to its present-day turning point. It all (re)started in the United States, where, in order to differentiate themselves from ordinary American lagers, brewers such as Sierra Nevada and Anchor Brewing began to produce beers with aromatic hops that gave the beer a surprising character.


authorbeers

IPAs have become the icon of the American and subsequently of the world craft movement, from an almost forgotten style to an established trend, a symbol of personality and creativity that goes against social homologation. The name IPA stands for India Pale Ale, sometimes referred to more simply as India Ale. It is a top-fermented beer with a characteristic amber colour. The more traditional IPAs are beers with a special alcohol content (5.5%-6.5%), amber-coloured as mentioned above and with a high and elegant intensity and fineness of aroma with fruity and floral scents, sometimes spicy, with hints of exotic fruit, citrus, grapes, tea, cut grass, pepper, mould and cheese. Of course, the huge variety of satellite styles of IPAs have a multitude of different scents, each with its own characteristics Beer-Food Often the high bitterness of IPAs can be a limitation and in this case a combination by contrast rather than similarity is preferable. The bitterness is great for taking away the saltiness. So, drier, hopped IPAs can be paired with lean, savoury salami, crispy, tasty fried food, or with dishes with rocket, radicchio or Belgian endive if we want to try a similarity pairing. For more tropical, lighter, less bitter and fruitier IPAs we can have fun with salads or the trendier ‘Poke’ using salmon or fresh tuna, avocado, fresh, exotic or citrus fruit. For the stronger IPAs, where the bitterness is present but the beer is more balanced, we can also open up to grilled meats or more mature cheeses. I still remember a wonderful pairing at an ONAF evening with Brewdog’s Hardcore Ipa and a Gruyère d’Alpage, just to give an example. In conclusion, we can consider the IPA both as a born in the past and future-oriented beer, the ‘turning point’ that made visible to all the difference between two beer eras. Cheers!

A multitude of styles American Pale Ale (APA) born to mark a significant difference from British IPAs are less malty, drier and bitter with a slightly higher alcohol content albeit with a lighter body. Double Ipa (DIPA) more full-bodied and alcoholic with a flavour balance between malt and hops, double malt alcohol content and a structured body. Imperial Ipa, the strongest, with an alcohol content often close to 9-9.5% with a consistent body, a strong malty base and a hoppy finish. Tropical Ipa, lighter and less bitter, but with a strong influence of aroma hops that make them extremely fruity and exotic. White Ipa, a wheat variant, light and thirstquenching, presents the sour characteristics of the cereal and the citrus characteristics of the hops used. New England Ipa (NEIPA) characterised by a marked turbidity and fruity scents that make it visually and olfactorily similar to a fruit juice, so much so that it has been given the name “Juicy.” West Coast Ipa, drier and lighter is strongly oriented towards bitterness with an exclusivity of hints given by the hops and the almost total absence of malty components. Black Ipa, an important colour variant, a dark beer with characteristics that combine the warm, spicy dark tones of the malts with the aromaticity and bitterness of the hops. 15


ingredents

presents “Famigliola Gialla Trifolati C’era Una Volta” Famigliola Gialla Trifolati C’era Una Volta Selected mushrooms sautéed with parsley and herbs using a process that preserves the aromas and flavours of the fresh raw material. With its cream less and grainy appearance it is ideal for every use in the kitchen or pizzeria.

Energy Focaccia INGREDIENTS FOR 1 FOCACCIA - 30 g fior di latte mozzarella - 60 g pounded beef - 25 g Famigliola Gialla Trifolati C’era Una Volta Demetra - Demetra Mid-Dry Yellow Tomatoes in Sunflower Oil - 25 g spreadable cheese - 25 g Demetra Porcini Cream - to taste Pepper-Cuvée, Wiberg Chopped Spice Mix - to taste Wiberg Orsino Garlic Oil dressing - to taste Wiberg Sun-dried Sea Salt Flakes PREPARATION Stuff the focaccia with the mozzarella and bake in the oven. After baking, complete with the porcini mousse made with the spreadable cheese and porcini cream, the quenelles of pounded beef seasoned with Orsino garlic oil, flakes of salt and pepper cuvée, the Famigliola gialla mushrooms and the mid-dry cherry tomatoes. Demetra is WIBERG official importer for Italy and France DEMETRA SRL - Via Roma, 751 - 23018 TALAMONA (Sondrio) ITALY Ph. +39 0342 674011 - Fax +39 0342 674030

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demetrafood.it

wiberg.demetrafood.it