Enjoy a sunset cruise along the Ganges before attending a private Aarti ceremony Stay in opulent and palatial residences with unmatched views of India’s icons Float high above Jaipur during a spectacular sunrise hot-air balloon flight
Aboard our business class private jet, embark upon a journey perfectly timed for Diwali. Everything has been considered and included, from lavish palaces to revered monuments and exclusive events.
The Luxury Travel Gold List Awards is the benchmark for travel accolades in Australia and across the globe, recognising the unique and dynamic nature of the Australian and regional luxury traveller seeking to explore the world responsibly and sustainably. With categories spanning from resorts & hotels to cruises and experiences, the Gold List Awards showcase the very best in luxury travel.
Keep up to date with the latest on the 2025 program via our website.
Recognising the world’s most exceptional stays, from boutique hideaways to grand luxury resorts.
Honouring the finest cruise lines, where luxury meets adventure on the open seas and beyond.
Celebrating unforgettable travel moments, from bespoke cultural immersions to thrilling once-in-a-lifetime adventures.
Showcasing the experts who craft seamless, tailor-made journeys with unparalleled service and insider access.
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30 Luxury Travel Products
Beautiful items to take on your travels
36 Dispatches
A collection of authentic experiences, outstanding design and sustainable travel initiatives
48 Online Spotlight What’s trending on luxurytravelmag.com.au
54 Sydney’s Grande Dame
Our cover story takes you inside the AU$70-million refurbishment of the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, Australia’s fist fie-star hotel
60 High Flyer
A review of Cathay Pacific’s Business Class flying from Sydney to Hong Kong
62 Pause
A peaceful interlude
MEMORABLE JOURNEYS FOR THE CURIOUS MODERN TRAVELLER
Highlands to Islands
Exploring the Scottish Highlands in autumn is a colour (and flavour) treat
Havana Modern
Meeting the creative souls that make the Cuban capital hum on so many interesting levels
The lo Way
The Slovenian capital of Ljubljana is at once steeped in time and forward thinking. Exploring this laid-back city is a sensory delight
City Guide: Nashville
Tennessee’s ‘Music City’ unites culture, boot-tapping tunes, world-class attractions and unbelievable food
BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO DWELL FOR THE DESIGN DILETTANTE
110 Splendour on the Rails
Th iconic Eastern & Oriental Express roars with new life through Southeast Asia
118 Heaven on Earth
Overlooking Lake Como, Passalacqua embodies what Italian hotel dreams are made of
126 Soul Session
Bali’s Mandapa is a sanctuary that weaves rhythms of nature, holistic wellness and culture
132 Island Home
Turtle Island delivers unique and genuine Fijian hospitality amid postcard-perfect scenery
140 Urban Sanctuary
The Singapore EDITION’s standout design offers a multilayered experience in the Lion City
146 Suite Life
Nostalgia, history and indulgent dining unite at Austria’s Hotel Sacher Salzburg
150 Suite Life
‘Local luxe’ is the star of the show at Sequoia Lodge in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia
154 Design Bite
A striking new look for the Olympic Spa Hotel in Di Fassa, Italy
A MENU OF INDULGENT GOURMET & WELLNESS EXPERIENCES
158 Tasting the High Country
Flockhill on New Zealand’s South Island deliveres luxe villas and exquisite farm-to-table dining in equal measure
166 Wild Dining
Fine dining , Inuit-fusion style, aboard Quark Expeditions’ Ultramarine
174 Breathe Easy
Hawaii’s Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort, offers a premium wellness experience
180 Eye K andy
Holistic style and ancient wellness at Sri Lanka’s Santani Wellness Kandy
186 Rendez-vous
A beautiful place to gather and dine
188 A Match Made in Heaven
A Q&A with legendary author Elizabeth Gilbert
ABOVE, TOP Cruising the Arctic with fine dining © Jocelyn Pride
ABOVE, MIDDLE Lake Como views from Passalacqua in Italy
ABOVE, BOTTOM Turtle Island’s dreamy beach
“From Queensland’s nature-focused luxury lodges to South Australia’s gastro-tourism, I am always impressed by the innovation and quality I see each and every time I check into a regional five-star property.”
Last month I had the pleasure of mingling with representatives from the winners of the 2024 Luxury Travel Gold List Awards over cocktails and canapes. This fabulous evening at the spectacular harbour-view rooftop of InterContinental Sydney Double Bay was not only a celebration of the industry’s best hotels, resorts, cruise lines and more, but also a culmination of the many months of hard work by the team at Indesign Media Asia Pacific, who worked tirelessly to make the 2024 awards program a huge success. It was the perfect way to close the 2024 chapter before we embark on the 2025 Gold List Awards – already underway!
In this issue, I penned a Suite Life review on one of South Australia’s most impressive properties – Sequoia Lodge (page 150). This eautiful country we live in is home to a raft of luxurious, design-led and culinary-forward boutique hotels, and Sequoia is no exception. From Queensland’s nature-focused luxury lodges to South Australia’s gastrotourism, I am always impressed by the innovation and quality I see each and every time I check into a regional fiestar property.
Hopefully by now you have spent plenty of time perusing the inspiring content on our gorgeous website, which was redesigned and relaunched last year to an incredible reception. And from now on it will be even easier to enjoy the editorial in Luxury Travel’s print edition, written by the country’s best travel writers. You can access a complimentary e-magazine version of each issue, beginning with the last edition, at luxurytravelmag.com.au, ensuring you never miss the latest fistperson accounts of the world’s greatest luxury resorts, or those valuable insider tips on the destinations you’re considering for your next holiday.
Lastly, to stay up-to-date with the latest luxury travel news, events, trending destinations, hotel openings, reviews and more… be sure to head to luxurytravelmag.com.au and sign up to our weekly newsletter. We are also active and engaged on social media, so please say hello on Instagram (@luxurytravel_mag), Facebook (@luxurytravelmagazine), LinkedIn (/luxury-travel-magazine) or Pinterest (@luxurytravelau).
Until next issue, happy and safe travels.
KAVITA LALA PUBLISHER
THE OCHRE LANDS OF THE KIMBERLEY
THE THUNDER OF KING GEORGE FALLS
THE SPRAY OF MONTGOMERY REEF
THE VAST OPEN SPACES OF THE COAST
THE CONNECTION TO ANCIENT CULTURES
In this magazine, my goal is to showcase the destinations that deserve attention – and I hope this edition steals yours
Even after a decade of globetrotting in the name of a good story, I fid myself regularly bowled over by the natural beauty within our reach. And when a hotelier somehow manages to meet this beauty with a property that does its breathtaking setting justice? Well, that is something truly special.
When, in 2022, I fist saw images of Passalacqua on the shores of Italy’s Lake Como, I thought: “Surely this place is too good to be true?” I can tell you from fist-hand experience (page 118), it’s not.
And Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Bali’s lush Ubud (page 126)? Another master stroke, just like Flockhill on New Zealand’s South Island – during my stay here culinary master Taylor Cullen left a lasting impression via a chef’s table experience cocooned within the magnificent foothills of the Southern Alps (page 158).
Over the last decade luxury hoteliers across the world have been thinking outside the box to deliver on a considered style of hospitality that not only meets but exceeds the ever-rocketing expectations of the modern luxury traveller. The properties that have emerged have often been curated right down
to the monogrammed embroidery on restaurant napkins, with the guest experience punctuated by thoughtful moments that surprise and delight from check-in to check-out. It’s precisely in these moments that memories are made, and where a renewed appreciation for this rare, extraordinary planet we live on begins.
This isue is brimming with journeys like these –from Kate Symons’ reset at Hawaii’s Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort, to Paul Ewart’s nature immersion in Sri Lanka’s central highlands and Nannette Holliday’s taste of refiery aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express. We also shine a spotlight on the golden landscapes of Scotland in autumn, Havana’s undying creative spirit and the smalltown charm of Ljubljana in Slovenia, along with Tennessee’s crooning capital of Nashville – just for starters.
In this magazine, my goal is to showcase the destinations around the world that deserve attention – and I hope this edition steals yours for long enough to pique your curiosity. Where will you go next?
MADELIN TOMELTY EDITOR
Luxury Travel Team
Publisher Kavita Lala kavita@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Editor Madelin Tomelty madelin@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Creative Director Sylvia Weimer sylvia@spacelabdesign.com
Brand + Partnerships Manager Richard Bunting richard@luxurytravelmag.com.au
General Enquiries media@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Head of Production Anna Carmody anna@indesign.com.au
Production Coordinator
Charlotte Yap production@luxurytravelmag.com.au
Assistant Editor + Sub Editor Natasha Dragun
Contributors
Timothy Alouani-Roby, Natasha Bazika, Claire Boobbyer, Matt Brace, Paul Ewart, Jenny Hewett, Nannette Holliday, Jocelyn Pride, Susan Skelly, Kate Symons
Events Coordinator Roisin Fagan roisin@indesign.com.au
Accounts Vivia Felice vivia@indesign.com.au
Indesign Media Executive Team
CEO Raj Nandan raj@indesign.com.au
Group Operations Manager Sheree Bryant sheree@indesign.com.au
Online Manager Radu Enache radu@indesign.com.au
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Cover image in partnership with Sofiel Sydney Wentworth Delta Rue is one of the innovative dining spaces in the new-look Sofitel Sydney Wentworth © Nicole England
With the guest at the heart of our operations for over 20 years, AmaWaterways offers unparalleled river cruise experiences on some of the world’s most stunning rivers in Europe, Asia, Egypt, Africa and South America.
Family owned and operated by pioneering river cruise professionals, AmaWaterways is renowned for its warm and welcoming crew; innovative and sustainable ship design; modern and spacious ships and amenities; wellness activities (including a wide choice of included small group shore excursions featuring biking and hiking options); and award-winning, locally sourced cuisine paired with complimentary fine wine.
Plan your unforgettable AmaWaterways journey with your trusted travel advisor or contact us directly.
Some of the talented writers whose inspiring stories feature in this issue
Jenny Hewett is a Sydney-based freelance travel writer who has lived and worked in Dubai and Bali. She has a keen interest in emerging destinations and loves nothing more than being among nature and wildlife. She recently returned from her second cruise to Antarctica and the Subantarctic island of South Georgia, where she was lost for words and nearly moved to tears as she stood before a colony of more than 450,000 king penguins. Jenny penned our Nashville City Guide (page 92) this issue.
Natasha Bazika is a travel and food writer who believes the best way to know a place is through its kitchen. Having lived in New York and Puglia, she’s equally at home in a fastpaced city or a sun-drenched olive grove. Her work has appeared in National Geographic Traveller, the Australian Financial Review, Sydney Morning Herald and more. When she’s not chasing down the best local eats, she’s plotting her next adventure. Natasha traced her roots to Slovenia for this issue (page 82).
Matt Brace is an award-winning travel writer. He is originally from Stratford-upon-Avon in the UK and was a Fleet Street reporter and foreign correspondent for more than a decade – working for Th Guardian, The bserver, Th Independent and The ndependent on Sunday – but decided travel writing was a lot safer. He now writes and photographs for several titles in Australia, Asia, Europe and the UK, and has written fie published books. He returned to his beloved Scotland for this edition (page 66).
Kate Symons is an awardwinning journalist who, for reasons that might be quite obvious, found herself gravitating towards travel writing. The shift has allowed her not only to explore incredible destinations, but also to meet and connect with all manner of fascinating people. For this issue, Kate tested out one of the luxe wellbeing programs on offer at Hawaii’s Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort. She’s still Zen (well, by her standards at least). Read her story on page 174.
With travel on all seven continents and 150+ different trips by land, small ship and river, Tauck puts a world of adventures at your feet. You can cruise to Antarctica, meet gorillas in Rwanda, bask in Bali bliss, experience Patagonia, taste wine and olive oil at family-owned Tuscan vineyards, ride the rails into the Canadian Rockies, walk off your riverboat into the heart of Old World Europe, and explore America’s national parks as an insider. Join us and see the world like you’ve only imagined before.
Millions flock to the Spanish town of Granada every year to visit the Alhambra, that lavishly sprawling hilltop fortress uniting Moorish royal palaces with Nasrid reflecting pools, fountains and Generalife gardens. It’s a wow. Almost as eye-catching – although in total contrast and uber-futuristic – is the DistrictHive Colony Podtel, perched in the Sierra Nevada mountains that envelop the 13th century architectural masterpiece. While off-grid, carbon-neutral and 100 per cent sustainable, this tiny home is completely out of this world. Dramatic setting aside, it is entirely AI powered, which means that a nifty app controls everything from lighting and temperature to concierge services and energy management. But we suggest that you switch off when you arrive and make the most of the photoframe outdoor shower – there’s no one else around for miles, after all – along with the infinity anti-gravity pool and stargazing hammocks. DistrictHive is known for choosing remote and ravishing locations for its eco-exciting pods, from the Azores to Iceland, Mauritius to Rwanda. But start here – the Sierras are sensational.
districthive.com
Arguably the most legendary hotel in Asia, R affles Singapore has been a beacon for the jet-set elite since it opened in 1887. From May it will have a new sister in the Lion City when the R affles Sentosa opens on Singapore’s leisure isle. The city-state’s fist all-villa –there are 62 – resort unites low-slung new and heritage buildings, with design by Yabu Pushelberg blending the tropics and R affles nostalgia with modern sophistication. Whether you’re checking into a one- or four-bedroom villa, you’re guaranteed a tranquil private enclave replete with a pool and cabanas, alongside spacious living and sleeping areas. This iland has its fair share of fie-dining establishments, and R affles ups the ante with fie more, covering cuisine that takes you on a journey from Italy to China and Japan, with a speakeasy thrown in for good measure. raffles.com
© Georg Roske
It takes a lot to turn heads in the Sydney hotel world. But the freshly minted Eve is doing just that, not only upping the buzz in Redfern’s new Wunderlich Lane lifestyle precinct, but also capturing the essence of the culture, art and design of this inner-city neighbourhood. The who’s who of the design world collaborated on the project, including SJB’s Adam Haddow, 360 Degrees’ Daniel Baffsy and George Livissianis, who united their talents to create a property that juxtaposes serene, leafy spaces with striking communal hubs – look out for standout artworks by Australian creatives like Louise Olsen and Tarryn Gill. First stop? The rooftop garden with its 20-metre infinty pool. tfehotels.com
Arguably Bali’s hippest neighbourhood – a haven for surfers and foodies alike – Canggu has received a welcome luxury injection with the opening of the Regent Bali Canggu. This lam hotel is the epitome of Indonesian style, from design to service, food and wellness –everything is carefully curated to remind you exactly where you are. The beachfront property’s 150 suites and villas feature high-pitched thatch roofs, commissioned batik fabrics, hand-carved teak tubs and local artworks – some come with private pools, while others have slip-in access to the hotel’s lagoon-style pool, one of six you can cool off in. ere are just as many restaurants and bars, including two helmed by Michelin-starred Irish chef Andrew Walsh: Cure, where the menu is guided by the flavours of Scandinavia, and Sazón, showcasing vibrant Spanish dishes.
ihg.com
The 1 Hotel group, whose mantra is ‘Nature is our true north,’ made its debut in 2005 on South Beach in Miami, Florida. Ten years down the track, the sustainably-driven brand is set to make an entrance in Melbourne, bringing rooms and residences to the riverside Northbank precinct from May. Like other properties in the portfolio, 1 Hotel Melbourne is eco-conscious to a tee, incorporating recycled materials into construction and interior design, featuring native greenery throughout, utilising low-energy lighting and temperature controls, and opting for sustainable linens and organic mattresses – there’s also a focus on farmto-table fare across restaurants and bars. Hailing from the UK, the hotel’s Bamford Wellness Spa is equally committed to sustainability via holistic wellness offerings like brown sugar body exfoliations and jade stone massages. The best bit? You can bring along your pooch for a pet-friendly stay.
1hotels.com
You no longer have to travel to Africa for an indulgent safari experience: welcome to Monarto Safari Resort, a unique new retreat amid the landscapes of the largest open-range safari park in Australia – and outside of Africa. In the heart of South Australia’s Murraylands, and remarkably just an hour east of Adelaide, the resort (opening 28 May) features 78 rooms and suites, overlooking expansive savannah plains and waterholes where some 500 animals roam free – from southern white rhinos to zebras, lions to hippos. When you’re not out at sunrise or sunset on a jeep safari adventure, make the most of resort facilities including a spa with ice-bath and sauna, and a dreamy pool-with-a-view. Keep your binoculars handy, as two high-end tents are set to open here later in the year.
monartosafariresort.com
The inaugural Mondrian hotel emerged from under Ian Schrager’s wing in Los Angeles in 1996. Today, it’s part of Accor’s lifestyleled subsidiary Ennismore, which is set to make its debut in Australia this year. Given this brand is all about the vibe, it’s fitting that the fist Mondrian Down Under will be located on the Gold Coast. The dramatic property occupies a sculptural Burleigh Heads building designed by Fraser & Partners, with 24 floors offering views over the pine-framed beach and Pacific Ocean as well as the rainforest hinterland. Studio Carter, meanwhile, is responsible for the interiors of the 208 studios, suites and beach houses, nodding to the surrounds via an informed textural and tonal interplay of sugar-white (the sand) and emerald (the palms and pandanus). Look forward to two restaurants as well as a glam pool club overlooking the Goldie’s beguiling shoreline, not to mention a wellness centre replete with a cosmetic clinic and spa. mondrianhotels.com
ANANTARA UBUD
Thai-based Anantara hotel group has a bit of a penchant for Bali, with two existing resorts in Seminyak and Uluwatu. They’re now joined by a third property in Ubud, featuring pool villas and suites strung among the jungle that defies the cultural heart of the Indonesian island – and with views of volcanic Mt Agung, no less. Design throughout is refied and tropical, nodding to Balinese culture and traditions, and experiences on offer range from village visits to blessings by priests, waterfall treks and age-old spa rituals. Then unwind in one of the fie restaurants and bars, including Kirana, where the flavours of the archipelago come to life through dishes like bebek goreng sambal madura (crispy duck with lemongrass) and rendang daging (braised beef in coconut milk with casava). There’s more to come – look out for the opening of Anantara Dragon Seseh Resort in Canggu in the not-too-distant future.
anantara.com
The Thai capital has its fair share of lavish skyscraper hotels. Standing tall in the pack is the just-opened RitzCarlton, enjoying a coveted position within the gleaming One Bangkok precinct. The rooms and suites to book are those overlooking leafy Lumpini Park – be sure to choose a space with a private balcony. Interiors are the brainchild of Thai-based design studio PIA, who draw upon Bangkok’s rich and storied heritage as well as the hotel’s setting on Wireless Road. In this food-obsessed city, dining is undeniably a highlight at the Ritz. Settle in for a French feast at Duet by David Toutain, helmed by the Michelin-starred chef; enjoy a culinary journey of classics at Lily’s; then end the evening at Caleō, an opulent lounge inspired by legendary social clubs around the world.
ritzcarlton.com
Life in the slow lane has never looked to good, with a slew of new rail journeys and upgraded train experiences around the world reinforcing the old adage that the journey is just as important as the destination. Case in point: the Golden Eagle Silk Road Express, set to debut in 2026 and linking some of the most fabled destinations – Beijing, Xi’an, Ashgabat and Tashkent among them – along this ancient trade route on three itineraries spanning 12 to 22 days. The train itself is the epitome of the Orient, with polished wood wall panelling, intricate Chinese art and silk flourishes. Dining across two restaurants is inspired by the regions you’re visiting, while the bar carriage is the place to unwind while being serenaded by a pianist. A host of diversions await when the train slows: walking the Great Wall, exploring the UNESCO-listed Buddhist caves of Dunhuang, and visiting the ruins of Merv, among many other highlights.
goldeneagleluxurytrains.com
Aworking cattle station and homestead covering some 162,000 hectares of the Northern Territory, Bullo River Station is the stuff utback dreams are made of. It’s about to get even better thanks to an upcoming 2026 redevelopment that will give the main building and guest wing a fresh new look, enhancing the size of accommodations and adding a two-bedroom suite. The features we love about this property – the outdoor pool and fiepit – will remain, although look smarter than ever thanks to refreshed landscaping. The makeover comes at the hands of Australian architectural fim MJA Studio working in collaboration with interior designer Sibella Court, who lent her expertise to the 2018 refurb of the estate. And true to the Bullo ethos, sustainability will remain a primary focus, both in design and guest activities around the station.
bulloriver.com.au
RIVIERA MAYA
The in-the-works, environmentallyfocused Kanai development on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula is a holiday haven – when complete it will welcome guests to four premier resorts, not to mention a host of interlinked restaurants, bars and boutiques. Among the upcoming accommodation options is the Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya, opening in 2028 on the outskirts of Cancun and Playa del Carmen. While the ocean is just steps away, all 120 of the MO’s rooms and suites will come with private pools, bringing the outside in thanks to elevated environmental design by Migdal Arquitectos and Meyer Davis studio – art throughout is to be curated by Mexican creative Bosco Sodi, known for his Wabi-Sabi aesthetic. Highlights will undoubtably revolve around the water, whether at the Beach Club, outdoor spa trail or three alfresco pools.
mandarinoriental.com
When luxury, sustainability and wildlife unite, you have a truly magical holiday experience. And nowhere else on the planet completes this package quite like the continent of Africa. Mark your diary for early 2026 when Asilia Africa will open Erebero Hills in the heart of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s home to half of the world’s mountain gorillas. Eight structurally stunning suites will be crafted primarily from bamboo, with the safari-lodge operator also committed to planting more than 25,000 indigenous trees to ensure the landscape remains pristine for its primate inhabitants – which you will get to meet on daily expeditions. Uganda is also on the radar of Abercrombie & Kent’s Sanctuary Retreats, with the luxury tour operator in the process of remodelling its Gorilla Forest Camp (to reopen as Gorilla Forest Lodge), alongside the makeover of Baines’ Lodge in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Meanwhile in South Africa, Few & Far has announced the upcoming launch of its fist sustainable safari lodge: Few & Far Luvhondo, situated in the country’s Soutpansber Mountains within UNESCO’s Vhembe Biosphere Reserve. The carbon-neutral property will span a staggering 100,000 hectares of wilderness, but there will be just six cliffsde suites, dramatic from the ground as well as the air – check them out while spotting wildlife on the unique ‘Soulfari’, a solar-powered aerial safari providing an eco-friendly alternative to traditional game drives.
asiliaafrica.com, abercrombiekent.com, fewandfarluvhondo.com
There are plenty of reasons to linger across England and Wales. And from July 2025, you can do just that in sustainable style aboard the Belmond Britannic Explorer – the fist luxury sleeper train traversing this part of the UK. Celebrating the art of ‘slow travel’, the train’s three- and six-night journeys explore sights such as the ribbon lakes and rugged fell mountains of Cumbria in northwest England, alongside Eryri National Park (Snowdonia) and the magnificent Pembrokeshire coast in Wales. Along the way you can look forward to exclusive activities including dining at Hauser & Wirth Somerset and its acclaimed restaurant Da Costa; a sumptuous dining experience at the renowned Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel in Oxfordshire; a visit to the enchanting Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens in Cornwall; and guided hikes across the rugged landscapes of Wales. The train itself doesn’t disappoint: think suites decorated in botanical hues and plush fabrics; a wellness carriage; and meals celebrating the UK, with menus curated by Michelin-starred British chef Simon Rogan.
belmond.com © LVMH
Few Monegasque establishments defie a region’s dining scene quite like Café de Paris, an 1868 institution that recently reopened after a 19-month metamorphosis on the principality’s Place du Casino. Now sitting pretty over two levels and with a scenic terrace, the legendary brasserie’s ground-floor art nouveau dining space is all stained-glass windows, chequered marble, terrazzo mosaics and wood panelling. Head upstairs for a more elevated experience, with starched linens and head-turning views over the precinct. Order classics like French onion soup, pâté en croute, eggs mayonnaise with a touch of caviar, and crêpe Suzette, which was fist invented at Café de Paris in 1896 during a visit from the Prince of Wales and is still flambéed tableside.
montecarlosbm.com
Embark on an unparalleled Antarctic expedition aboard Le Commandant Charcot, the world’s only luxury icebreaker, from the storied Drake Passage into the almost inaccessible Weddell Sea.
Explore at leisure with a maximum of just 200 guests and experience the thrill of discovery and once-in-a-lifetime encounters, as you enter the kingdom of the majestic emperor penguin.
Including an overnight stay in Santiago and seamless return transfers and flights to Ushuaia, every detail is meticulously curated for your convenience on this extraordinary itinerary. Join PONANT for an unforgettable Antarctic voyage, where the promise of new encounters and breathtaking landscapes await at every turn.
14-day Antarctica Expedition | Santiago to Santiago | From $40,770 pp.
Depa rts 30 October, 11 & 23 November & 19 December 2025 aboard Le Commandant Charcot Includes 12-night expedition, overnight in Santiago, return flights and transfers*
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Acclaimed Australian industrial designer Adam Goodrum teamed up with Laminex on their 90th anniversary to create the quintessential – yet most luxe – table yet. Dubbed Echo, it’s an art deco throwback replete with a graphic display of angles and folds – when open, its triangular quadrants reveal a square, twice as large. The colour palette nods to Australia’s landscapes: think outback clay and coastal sunrise. It’s the ultimate backdrop for your next dinner party. POA
laminex.com.au
Get ready for that weekend feeling every day with Fenton & Fenton’s latest modular sofa, Sunday. Blending ’70s vibes with contemporary style, Sunday has been designed to adapt to a multitude of spaces with a modular construction that allows you to choose pieces in sections and configure them to suit your spac. The centrepiece gently arches, creating curvaceous lines that soften and introduce a minimalist and yet elegant silhouette. RRP from AU$2,400
fentonandfenton.com.au
He may be known as a special-occasion couturier, but Australian designer Steven Khalil is turning his attention to a new red carpet: interiors. Armed with deep appreciation of touch, shape, fabrics, look and the layering of details, Khalil has collaborated with Designer Rugs to create exceptional pieces that take their influence from some of his mos intricately detailed red-carpet gowns. Each of the Steven Khalil rugs can be customised in shape, size and colour and made-to-order. POA
designerrugs.com.au
After you’ve secured checkmate, Reflections Copenhage’s Triumph chess set will look a treat sitting atop your coffee tabl. It’s meticulously crafted from colourful, hand-cut crystal and comes with beautifully abstract pieces for a modern edge. RRP AU$7,322
net-a-porter.com
Sleep therapy is a thing – and the best way to start is with a quality foundation. Each Hästens bed is crafted from natural materials, including horsetail hair, cotton, wool and flax, ensuring maximu breathability and temperature regulation. The latest beds see the horsetail hair sectioned into thinner yet more plentiful layers, with even thinner layers of cotton and wool in between. The result? An airy and comfortable conduit to sweet dreams. POA hastens.com
Summer may be over, but that doesn’t mean you can’t dive in. With a curved design, removable covers and premium comfort, the Atoll Pool Float from King Living envelopes you in watery luxury. This might be the ultimate way to drift away… RRP from AU$600
kingliving.com.au
With its striking tennis racket shape, this mirror is not only functional but a smash-hit conversation starter. The Racquet Mirror by Bolia offer a playful yet luxe silhouette that will net compliments and elevate any space. Each piece is meticulously crafted using an intricate steambending technique, making every mirror truly unique – no two pieces are alike. RRP from AU$1,324
bolia.com
Fashionably luxe looks to pack for your journey
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Eyewear that look like jewellery? You’ve come to the right place. Bottega Veneta Eyewear’s innovative sunglasses have curved gold-tone arms tipped with embellishments that are meant to resemble the label’s dome-shaped earrings. They’re made from tortoiseshell recycled-acetate and have classic aviator-style frames. Stylish and sustainable. RRP AU$509
net-a-porter.com
Why wear jewels on your fingers when you ca have the hues in your Tom Ford gown? This dreamy emerald tasselled cut-out halterneck is simply hypnotising with its rich gem shade and intricate detailing. Cut from wispy silkgeorgette, it has a ruched, cut-out halterneck bodice, which you can adjust with tasselled ties, and falls to a semi-sheer skirt. Style yours with full briefs and heeled sandals like those to the right. RRP AU$4,715
net-a-porter.com
A rose between… two roses? Perfect for special dinners and events, Dolce&Gabbana’s strappy Keira sandals are the epitome of romance. Made in Italy from lustrous satin, they’re appliquéd at the back with a long-stem rose climbing each 105mm stiletto. No wallflower in this crowd. RRP AU$2,430
net-a-porter.com
Powered by Australia’s first and only patented desert saltbush botanica complex, The Efficacy Cream by Aijan combines a blend of clinical proven native extracts to nourish, revitalise and protect skin. It’s packed with peptides, vitamins, antioxidants and potent phytochemicals to deliver long-lasting hydration while deeply penetrating the skin to drive cell renewal and stimulate collagen production. RRP AU$275
aijan.com
Mondial by Nadia Neuman is known for telling personal stories through its pieces, transforming each jewellery item into a cherished future heirloom. Nadia’s two new collections, Victoria Rose and Lumière, embody her creative vision and exceptional craftsmanship, crafted from the finest Argyl pink and white diamonds and offerin dazzling ready-to-wear pieces. POA
mondialbynadia.com.au
When travelling, you crave the ultimate cosy outfit – with a side o style. Enter The Marquis Cape from Common Hours, a luxe union of cashmere and wool produced in Italy with the renowned Fratelli Piacenza. The custom print features a licensed artwork from the Tamara de Lempicka Estate, while the piece itself comes with an exaggerated hood, blanket stitch-edge trimmings and extended fringe detail on the hem. There are only 20 of these beauties on offe. Get in quick. RRP AU$5,200
commonhours.co.uk
Stylish travellers, rejoice! Australian brand Maison de Sabre has launched its newest range of high-quality accessories, showcasing a commitment to craftsmanship and innovation. The Resilon portfolio of carryalls comes in a dual-tone blue, and as always is durable, functionable and sustainable. Crafted from 100 per cent recycled nylon yarn sourced from ocean plastic, each piece in the collection – tote, sling, laptop bag and backpack – is designed to be waterresistant, stain-proof, and dust-resistant. RRP from AU$219
maisondesabre.com
Luxe gadgets to take with you on your adventures – or to look forward to when you get home
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Maserati’s legendary GranCabrio range has a head-turning new incarnation in the form of the 490-CV, combining the performance and comfort characteristics of the coupé version with the option of driving in the open air. Iconic features remain, like the twin-turbo combustion engine and 100 per cent electric Folgore powertrain. The interior is in icecoloured full-grain leather, with a 19-speaker sound system, LED headlights and 3D carbon finishes Then there’s the retractable soft-top for an open-air experience, plus all-wheel-drive and engine force to help you reach 300km/h. POA
maserati.com
Love running, but hate it when your headphones fall out? Enter the new Apple Powerbeats Pro 2, designed to grip into your ear thanks to a nifty new hook... all the while providing high-tech analysis of your workout. Available in four bold colours – jet black, quicksand, hyper purple and electric orange – the headphones stand out for offering features lie heartrate monitoring (compiled in real-time with your fitness app), immersive sound, active noise cancellation an wireless charging, not to mention the long battery life. RRP AU$399 apple.com
Swiss watch maison Breguet has been producing exquisite timepieces since 1775. The newest is the Equation Marchant, as exceptional as it is mesmerising. In a unique complication, the watch records the difference between local tim… and the time dictated by the Earth’s rotation relative to the sun. We’re not sure how that’s possible, but Breguet says it’s due to a perpetual calendar and a tourbillion. Made of platinum and highly technical, this incarnation of the watch includes a black hue for the ‘wave’ guilloché dial, evoking the image of an ocean cradled by the silvery glow of the moon. RRP AU$433,000
breguet.com
Channel the chic vibes of southern France with Bang & Olufsen’s new special-edition Beosound A5, crafted in design partnership with luxury brand Riva. Bathed in a blue fit fo the water, meticulously wrapped in mahogany and maple, each portable speaker delivers huge sound whether you’re in a hotel room or floating offsho. Look forward to Wi-Fi capabilities, a long-lasting battery, wireless charging and waterproofing… in short, this beauty can be by your sid wherever the waves will take you. RRP US$2,400 (around AU$3,770)
bang-olufsen.com
It’s not just computers that are getting smarter – the flash new Samsung Galaxy S25 series of smartphones comes with a jaw-dropping suite of AI-driven innovation, allowing you to unlock new realms of creativity, forge deeper connections and streamline everyday tasks like never before. Think: the Now Brief function, that learns your routines and delivers customised information like exercise updates, translations, music and more. And AI Select, a personal assistant capable of summarising lengthy articles in seconds or aiding in creative tasks like generating colourful images with Drawing Assist. This is just the tip of the smartphone iceberg. RRP from AU$1,599
samsung.com
When bag space is limited and high-tech performance is needed, the ThinkBook Plus Gen 6 Rollable is for you. This new AI PC from Lenovo is rollable – yes, its flexible OLED display with small motor built in allow its hinge to unfurl the screen and roll it back down. It literally grows at the touch of a hand (or through gestures), maxing out at 16.7 inches. All this and it weighs just 1.7 kilograms. Highlights include split-screen functionality, allowing for better posture while working, as well as AI-enabled features to unleash user productivity and creativity. RRP US$3,500 (around AU$5,630)
lenovo.com
Immersive experiences and journeys created for genuine connection
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Discover three South Australian wine regions in one day? It’s an Aussie first thanks to new company Ascend. This new luxury winery tour takes you on a deeply immersive dive into a trio of the state’s acclaimed grape-growing regions – all via helicopter, no less. Which means you can begin your day sipping wines in McClaren Vale before dropping in on the Adelaide Hills and Langhorne Creek. You’ll get to meet the vintners, wander through the vines and enjoy a lavish lunch – with plenty of award-winning beverages throughout your journey. Is this the most decadent way to get familiar with SA’s applauded wine industry? We think so.
A splendidly chic lodge that unites style with sustainability, El Questro is a working cattle station at the top of the country in the Kimberley region of Western Australia. It’s a destination like no other – all deep gorges and thermal springs, mud and salt flats, rainforests and cascading waterfalls. It offers the chance to explore one of Australia’s last true frontiers. Most people come here to sleep in luxe suites or glamping tents, with the property’s 300,000 hectares opening up opportunities to hike, bike, ride, fl, drive or boat over jaw-dropping Kimberley landscapes. But now you can also take a deep dive into the region’s 65,000 years of Indigenous history thanks to the new Injiid Marlabu Calls Us tour. You’re welcomed to country by an Aboriginal guide with a smoking ceremony, to cleanse bad spirits from your aura – wet eucalyptus leaves wafted over flames to create an addictive aroma and gentle smoke. It’s part of an ancient healing ritual, accompanied by generational stories retold in language. Traditional Ngarinyin language is a big part of this experience, and you’ll learn Indigenous words while walking through the incredible landscape – you’ll also discover bush tucker and medicine, and waterways where Aboriginal communities would feast and leave behind middens over centuries.
elquestro.com.au
There are plenty of walking tour operators offering trips to Japan. But few tae you on a cultural quest quite like Life’s An Adventure. The Australian-based company’s pack-free guided hikes are immersive and educational, spanning nine carefully curated itineraries that include pretty much everything – private transfers, accommodation, meals, guides. All you need to do is lace up your walking shoes and enjoy the scenery… and the attractions. Along your journey you may have the chance to experience a rare geisha show or a traditional kanji writing tutorial; perhaps indulge in a Japanese cooking class or a traditional tea ceremony; or cruise down a river on a pilgrim boat. Whichever itinerary you opt for – whether traditional pilgrimage Monk walks or ancient trading routes – you’ll be led by a bilingual guide who will share local knowledge and plenty of stories.
lifesanadventure.com.au
If you’re looking to tick off anothe UNESCO experience, head to Norway to experience the seterkultur, one of the newest additions to this esteemed list. Loosely defined as summer farm culture’, this is a living heritage that honours the region’s mountain farming practices, as well as the deep-rooted traditions and artisanal craftmanship that have shaped Norway for centuries. Purveyors of all things upscale yet sustainable in Scandinavia, Up Norway has launched a new series of tours that celebrate this milestone via exclusive, authentic cultural experiences. Sign up for immersive farm stays, engaging culinary experiences and journeys through rolling farmlands and Arctic meadows where you can learn how to milk cows and sample fresh cheese, perhaps; go hiking and kayaking; or discover the art of biodynamic farming.
upnorway.com
Australian natural skincare brand Jurlique is known for producing some of the world’s most luxurious products, all from botanicals grown biodynamically on their South Australian estate. You have long been able to tour the spectacular property, but the new Handpicked Experience takes your visit to the next level. Located in the Adelaide Hills, Jurlique HQ now invites you to get hands-on with botanical harvesting, before crafting your own bespoke aromatherapy blend. Wander the fields, pick fresh flowers and herbs, and then mae your own healing fragrance to take home. Elevate the journey by adding on a chef’s table dining experience at Jurlique’s neighbour, The Lane Vineyard, which features a seven-course menu incorporating farm-to-table produce and an introduction to sustainable farming practices. jurlique.com.au
Australia’s legendary train the Indian Pacific has been traversing the world’s longest stretch of straight railway track between the east and west coast of the country for more than 50 years. It recently extended its eastbound itinerary to a five-day journe, which means more time on board – and more new experiences on the ground. Highlights between Perth and Sydney include exploring one of Australia’s largest gold mines in Kalgoorlie, visiting the ghost town of Cook along the Nullarbor Highway, enjoying an exclusive dinner at Seppeltsfield Estate in the Barossa Valley, and unleashing your inner creative at acclaimed artist Pro Hart’s original studio in Broken Hill.
journeybeyondrail.com.au
Wellness tourism is booming, with a record number of travellers venturing to destinations where they can reset –mentally and physically. Enter the inaugural Yoga Festival in Tahiti this October, a gathering of communities from around the world to foster connection and raise awareness for a more caring world. More than just a yoga event, the Tahiti Yoga Festival offers travellers a chance to immerse themselves in Polynesian culture – they can explore the dramatic peaks of the main island, chase waterfalls, embark on thrilling 4WD adventures through lush fields, or surf some of the worlds most breathtaking beaches. A short ferry ride over to the sister island of Moorea offers even more adventure opportunities, with snorkelling in the lagoon, hiking the mountain tops and much more.
tahitiyogafestival.com
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
Rotterdam’s newest gallery and museum is housed in one of the Dutch city’s most historic harbour warehouses, a 1923 space that was once the largest storage and transhipment warehouse in the world, designed by architect Cornelis van Goor. It has been restored to its former glory, with a dramatic new addition –Ma Yansong from MAD Architects crafted an eyecatching twisted staircase that swirls upwards to a lookout point above the roof, aptly naming it the Tornado. Yansong – the first Chinese architec to design a museum in Europe – wanted the futuristic addition to be both practical and a work of art in itself, reflecting th former bustle and history of the quays, where the lives of millions of people once took a turn as they set sail on a migratory path.
fenix.nl
There is no shortage of luxe hotels in the Thai capital, but upping the ante is Aman Nai Lert Bangkok, billing itself as an ‘urban oasis’ within the city’s leafy Nai Lert Park. Long-time Aman collaborator Jean-Michel Gathy was called in to oversee the design of the property’s 52 suites, integrating details of the park’s century-old Nai Lert Heritage Home with contemporary elements. Flourishes throughout include custom-made products by local artisans, as well as art and antiques that celebrate Thailand. But the real scene-stealer is the 100-year-old Sompong tree, sitting pretty in the property’s courtyard. Highlights range from the 1872 lounge bar and Italian restaurant Arva to the two-floor spa and infinity swimming pool, making the most of its sparkling location with vistas over the private green space it sits within.
aman.com
You don’t need a reason to visit Victoria’s stellar wine region of the Yarra Valley, just a 45-minute drive from the state capital of Melbourne. But if you’re looking for one, make it the June opening of Levantine Hill Hotel, set amid the rolling vineyards of the award-winning estate by the same name. This architecturally-designed boutique property by FK Australia follows a design ethos of melding into the landscape: think concrete and unfinished silvertop ash, leather and accents of metal. All 33 suites come with private balconies and vine views, but the pick of the bunch is the Optume Suite, replete with a fireplac, cellar and bar.
levantinehill.com.au
Celebrating 10 years in 2025, the glam Mandarin Oriental Milan has never disappointed design aficionados. Its raising the stakes in this Italian city with the launch of a series of new experiences to take guests on a deep dive into the world of the whimsical Italian atelia Fornasetti, founded in Milan in the 1940s and known for its eye-catching furniture, home accessories and porcelain. Check in to the hotel’s striking Fornasetti Suite, a space dedicated to the brand’s designs, from the Ultime Notizie table and its Capitello chairs to the Guscio sofa and Boss black leather armchair. Then take a seat in the Saletta Duomo, a private space within two-Michelin-starred restaurant Seta –it’s named after the Duomo Sommerso (‘Submerged Cathedral’) panel within the space, inspired by a 1951 drawing by Piero Fornasetti in which the symbol of Milan becomes a dreamlike underwater image, with fish of various shapes and colours swimming around it. Be sure to order the CaraLina cocktail, inspired by Lina Cavalieri, Fornasetti’s muse.
mandarinoriental.com
Home to one of the world’s largest collections of modern and contemporary Portuguese art, Lisbon’s Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian has been given a fresh new look at the hands of applauded Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. His extension of the 1983 building by British architect Leslie Martin is a stunning synthesis of Japanese architectural principles with Portuguese materials and sensibilities, marked by a sweeping, wood-clad canopy. Kuma’s focus on creating engawa spaces – traditional Japanese corridors that act as transitional zones between the interior and exterior – captures the essence of connection, not only between the museum and its gardens but also between the institution and the broader city.
gulbenkian.pt
The first new hotel on Hamilton Islan since 2007, The Sundays is set to steal the scene when it opens in the coming months. Sitting at the northern end of Catseye Beach, the low-slung property is a redux of a pre-existing building, meaning minimal impact to the land on which it sits. Pioneering female designer Carrie Williams oversaw the makeover, curating spaces that capture the essence of the property’s tropical Whitsundays location – all palm trees and opaline water views – via a beachchic colour palette of cool aqua and green, with sand-toned floor tiles an blonde timber furniture. Kuku Yalanji artist Tiarna Herczed’s artworks star throughout, with other niceties including a pickleball court and restaurant by esteemed seafood chef Josh Niland.
hamiltonisland.com
One&Only knew it would have to make a splash with its American debut. And it did just that, opening in Montana’s jaw-dropping Moonlight Basin. The setting is rightly the drawcard, all vast plains and soaring mountains. Architectural firm Olson undig got the memo, creating spaces that embrace the natural elements outdoors and celebrate local artisans – think floor-to-ceiling windows roaring fires and cosy textiles. While thi part of Big Sky is particularly popular over the winter months, when skiers and snowboarders descend to make the most of the pristine slopes – the hotel has its own gondola to Madison Base – it’s just as alluring throughout other seasons, when hiking, biking, kayaking and fly fishing awai
oneandonlyresorts.com
Compiled by NATASHA DRAGUN
There’s arguably no more immersive – not to mention sustainable – way to see the world than on foot. With this in mind, and to showcase the jaw-dropping landscapes of Kosciuszko National Park, six years was spent crafting Australia’s highest and newest walking trail, spanning an epic 56 kilometres through NSW’s high country. The Snowies Alpine Walk links the atmospheric villages of Guthega, Charlotte Pass, Perisher and Bullocks Flat over four days – you can also complete single sections, if time doesn’t permit the entire length – with highlights including crossing the Snowy River on Australia’s highest suspension bridge, reaching the mainland’s loftiest peak, and discovering ancient snow gum forests and wildflower meadows. Choose to wander your own way on a self-guided adventure, or opt to enlist an expert guide to decode the wilderness while you wander.
nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
The Indonesian island of Bali can be chaotic – in the best possible way – with resorts and malls consuming almost every inch of terrain. Ayana resort is bucking the trend, launching an expansive green space designed to reconnect visitors with the land – and also protect it. Tevana Garden spans some six hectares along Jimbaran on the southwest coast, providing a sensory nature experience replete with meandering trails and lookouts through a landscape with more than 80 species of tropical plants. Curated by Japanese landscape architectural firm azuma Hasegawa, the leafy oasis at once celebrates Bali’s natural beauty while subtly integrating Japanese touches, including Zen spaces and dreamy water features, gently flowing streams and sparkling waterfalls.
ayana.com
For over a decade, A&K Philanthropy has been a positive force for change in the remote communities and villages of Peru’s Sacred Valley. The brand’s newest initiative, the A&K Inca Trail Assistants Program, takes its commitment to new heights – literally – by enlisting 12 women from a traditional Quechua-speaking community to be trained to assist travellers on the iconic Inca Trail, which leads to the magnificent citadel of Machu Picchu. These women – who are some of the most marginalised in the valley – can now learn hospitality skills, earn an income, gain independence, and share their cultural heritage with visitors on the hike. They also contribute to the preservation of this ancient trail, following the Historic Sanctuary regulations and keeping it clean by recycling along the way.
abercrombiekent.com
© Oyvind Heen
Nordic travel company 50 Degrees North has launched its new Impact Fund, investing 10 per cent of profits into environmenta and social projects to protect the fragile environments it visits. “Regenerative tourism goes beyond sustainability,” says Jerrine Mullen, sustainability manager at 50 Degrees North. “It’s about actively restoring and revitalising the places we visit, with the hope of leaving them better than before. By focusing on environmental restoration, cultural preservation, and community wellbeing, we aim to make a lasting, positive impact.” Projects that the company is already actively supporting include La Humla Suse (dedicated to promoting biodiversity by protecting pollinators); SeaForester (which restores lost kelp forests along the world’s coastlines); and Nærøyfjord orld Heritage Park (supporting initiatives that balance tourism with environmental stewardship).
fiftydegreesnorth.com
Leading luxury eco-resort brand Soneva and non-profit charity Olive Ridley Project have teamed up to launch the Noonu Atoll Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Centre at Soneva Jani in the Maldives. It’s a massive – and inspiring – project designed to protect the vulnerable olive ridley sea turtle population from ever-growing ‘ghost nets’ across the archipelago – derelict fishing gear floating through the ocea and thought to weigh in at a whopping 640,000 tonnes a year. The centre’s focus is on rehabilitating injured turtles before returning them to the wild, and guests at Soneva Jani are invited to learn about conservation efforts and the turtle rehab process with guided tours of the centre, where they will be introduced to the resident sea turtle patients.
soneva.com
There’s no denying Bali’s beauty. But beneath its beaches and rice fields lies mounting environmental crisis. The island produces a staggering 1.6 million tonnes of waste each year, including 330,000 tonnes of plastic waste. Due to ineffectiv management, much of this waste goes uncollected, with significant amount ending up in rivers and ultimately in the ocean, threatening the Indonesian island’s ecosystem, the livelihood of its communities and the tourism industry. In response, a coalition of forward-thinking businesses has come together to launch the Community Waste Project, a revolutionary initiative aimed at drastically reducing the island’s landfill waste and setting a new standar for sustainability in Indonesia. Spearheaded by Mexicola Group, Potato Head Family and Total Bangun Persada, this innovative initiative has opened a 2,000-square-metre waste facility adjacent to Bali’s largest landfill, with the goal of processing organic inorganic and garden waste through advanced sorting, composting, recycling and upcycling methods. The bold mission is to reduce Bali’s landfill waste to just five p cent (it’s currently at more than 50 per cent). If you want to see the upcycling end results, check in to Seminyak’s Potato Head hotels, where everything from furniture to in-room amenities is crafted from recycled plastics.
seminyak.potatohead.co
A pristine beach, nesting turtles, and spectacular sunsets – Turtle Tracks by Sea Darwin-Sea Tiwi offers an unforgettable encounter with nature on th remote Njulbitjlk (Bare Sand Island), an easy ferry ride from Darwin. Guided by marine experts and aligned to the lunar cycle, the experience allows travellers to witness turtles’ nesting rituals up close, all while ensuring their habitat remains untouched. This is a sunset odyssey for those with an adventurous spirit who want to witness the magic of turtle hatchlings, in their world and on their terms. The best bit? Every ticket supports the Aus Turtle Research Project.
seadarwin.com
It’s Phuket’s ‘Out of Africa’ moment: a new luxe tented resort that thinks outside the box
BY SUSAN SKELLY
As fist impressions go, the new tented resort on Phuket’s west coast looks as if it’s just been through a tropical car wash and opted for the gleaming magic wand finish
With check-in at nightfall, the Twinpalms Bangtao Phuket Tented Resort is lit up like a Christmas tree, giving the promise of time out with a sexy, rustic vibe.
The constellation of glamping tents comprises fie on Bangtao Beach, which opened in December 2023, and a new site of 24 tents a stone’s throw away, fronting waterways and lush lagoons designed by landscape architect Martin Palleros, the founder of Bangkok-based Tierra Design.
It’s a collection that thinks outside the box . The 2.5-metre canvas walls – let’s call the colour khaki-meetslatte – unhook, roll up and unzip to customise the view, opening your lodgings to be at one with nature, hammock or plunge pool.
The tents were conceptualised by Dutch interior designer Anneke van Waesberghe, of Escape Nomad in Indonesia. Her quest was a house without walls.
“I have always been a believer in luxury being more than just opulence; it’s about experiencing the world in a way that leaves a positive impact on it,” says Waesberghe. “With that in mind, we embarked on a journey to design a tent that combines elegance, comfort, and sustainability.”
Her tents range in size from 50 square metres for a one-bedroom tent to 150 square metres for two bedrooms separated by a spacious living area with a serious desk, cabinets of refreshments, and a flourish of white orchids. Each tent has electricity, plumbing, ceiling fans, air-conditioning and an imposing king bed swathed in Out of Africa mosquito netting. Finishes add safari sizzle: caramel wood, rattan, and leather belts that secure the rolled-up wall sections and decorate bolster cushions.
There is a spa tent for single or couple massages, facials and scrubs. Treat yourself, too, to sunrise meditation and yoga, the art of folding lotus petals, a mango tasting session, and – what everyone needs – some lessons on how to hang chimes.
“Luxury is as much about the experience as the materials. It’s about timeless spaces and creating a strong
relationship between architecture and nature,” Palleros says over dinner at nearby restaurant Wagyu Steak House – an opportunity to try highly marbled beef from several countries. “The abundance of nature is becoming a rarity in our lives, and being able to live in close contact with nature is a form of luxury in itself.”
There’s plenty to experience on this chilled ‘safari’. Other destination restaurants in the hotelier’s orbit are Shimmer and Kalido, where chef Tommasak, once an Iron Chef Thailand regular, presides over a Mediterranean menu. Phuket has two Michelin-greenstarred restaurants: Jampa and PRU. Hunt out real-deal street food at the Friday night markets off oat Avenue; the Sino-Portuguese architecture, food treats and crafts at the Sunday night markets in Phuket City; and cooking classes at the Catch Beach Club, where you’ll learn to make Phuket prawns, spicy Thai beef salad and traditional tom yum talay (spicy seafood soup). Learn to make a killer negroni and a tomartini (tomato martini) with a cocktail class at the Wagyu Steak House.
Spend a few hours at the organic Little Bukit Farm, where Melinda Briend-Marchal raises horses, chickens and the cutest, silkiest goats, and grows an abundance of fruit and vegetables that supply the top-end of town – and our lunch.
Stop by the recently opened shop, Say Cheese, which specialises in – believe it or not – some 100 types of fromage made in Thailand.
You can’t visit Phuket without stocking up on lotions and potions at Lemongrass House, which produces more than 1,200 spa- and body-care products, hand-blended a kilo at a time. The products are sulphate- and parabenfree and have not been tested on animals. White mud-based body mask and black orchid or fig tea essential oil are a must.
The new tented resort is part of the Twinpalms portfolio in Phuket which includes Twinpalms Surin Beach and MontAzure Kamala Beach as well as two beach clubs: Catch Beach Club and The Lazy Coconut. The idea for the tented camp came from Olivier Gibaud, who has been the general manager of Twinpalms Hotel and Resorts since the Surin Beach property opened in 2004.
“About 10 years ago, I travelled to South Africa and India, stayed in luxury camps and I just loved it,” he says. “I ordered one tent from Escape Nomad and had it mounted in my back garden. I added another four. That’s what occupied me during Covid. It became Aladdin Luxury Camp, run by my son, Sebastian. It was too good not to do something bigger.”
Phuket, too, is on a roll. Construction is in overdrive. What used to be a seven-bedroom villa, says Gibaud, is now a 700unit condominium targeting retirees and cashed up foreigners wanting a second home.
On top of that, Phuket has been evolving into a global wellness destination, tapping into the trend for longevity tourism, a holistic approach integrating physical, mental, medical, nutritional and lifestyle health.
According to Bill Barnett, MD of the C9Hotelworks hospitality consultancy, in 2022 wellness tourism expenditure in Thailand reached the equivalent of AU$12 billion.
We join Twinpalm’s CEO Carl Langenskiold for some guaranteed wellness on the 23-metre MY Olympia, one of a fleet of motor yachts guests can hire. Langenskiold didn’t pitch tents during Covid – he worked out how to build a light plane. Next he’ll try a helicopter. The entrepreneur also has his sights set on treehouse accommodation in 2025.
The Andaman Cruises yachts are a magnet for guests seeking solitude and recalibration. Hopping on board for a daytrip also proves an incomparable introduction to the Andaman Sea as, champagne in hand, we soak up stunning landscape, secret beaches and romantic caves.
One member of our party captures the day’s joie de vivre with handstands on her paddleboard.
Tents at the Twinpalms Bangtao Phuket Tented Resort range from AU$350 to AU$880 per night. twinpalmshotelsresorts.com
This story first featured
Arguably Sydney’s most legendary hotel, the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth has a sparkling new look thanks to a recent AU$70-million makeover. The vibe, however, remains classically – and timelessly – French, true to the ever-opulent brand
WORDS BY NATASHA DRAGUN
There’s a moment, walking into the lobby of the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, when time appears to slow. Perhaps it’s the distraction of the lengthy drop-lit ‘chandelier’ overhead, a nod to the days when guests of the hotel would be escorted to their rooms by candlelight. Maybe it’s the plush velvet sofas in nature’s shades – a tonal r iff on the polished bronze porte-cochere and leafy Royal Botanic Garden, just metres away.
It’s undoubtably due to the dapper staff, who glide around the high-ceilinged, marbled space that at once pays homage to its 1966 heritage, and yet is confidently refreshed and gleaming. “Reinventing an icon is about honouring its past while reshaping it for the future,” the hotel’s general manager Sam Panetta tells me.
When Qantas Airways opened this grand horseshoeshaped dame some 60 years ago – to provide contemporary international-standard accommodation for its overseas jet-set era passengers – it became the talk of the town. It was the fist international fie-star hotel in Australia, and attracted everyone from Neil Armstrong and Sophia Loren to Sir Elton John and the late Queen Elizabeth II. Famously when they visited in 1983, the then Prince Charles and Princess Diana took a spin around the dancefloor of the soaring pillarless Wentworth Ballroom.
When Sofitel took over the heritage-listed, post-war modernist building – once the largest single-brick structure in the Southern Hemisphere – in 2004, it brought with it the brand’s classy French origins in design. Two decades down the track, the fresh makeover at the hands of FK design fim – also behind projects like Sydney’s The Darling hotel and Hobart’s dramatic MONA gallery – still captures this timely elegance, but with clear modern thought. “It was a delicate balance between restoration and reinvention; maintaining the soul of the building while integrating cutting-edge innovative hospitality features,” says Panetta.
FK played up the voluptuous curves of the exterior through features like birdcage lounge chairs and a new-moon-shaped dining hub on level fie, where indoor-outdoor spaces arch gloriously around tropical greens and a tree that was craned into the hotel.
DINING
It’s here – alfresco on the level-fie terrace – where I step into Wentworth Bar, one of four dining concepts in the hotel imagined by Sydney’s House Made Hospitality group. The Concrete Jungle Bird cocktail on the menu is a head-swirling, fruity muddle of Planteray white rum, Aperol, mango, passionfruit and fresh lime. Meanwhile, the Chamomile High Club unites Casamigos Blanco tequila with chamomile, cucumber, vanilla and grapefruit soda.
The accompanying snack menu is globetrotting, but I’m saving myself for adjoining Delta Rue, with its sexy champagne bar at the entrance, easing into a space of reclaimed teak and jaw-dropping wallpaper of lush foliage and exotic birds by artist Kerrie Brown. It’s a hark on the yesteryear elegance of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, both in design and menu – think banh xeo (crispy coconut crepes with bean sprouts and fragrant herbs), drunken chicken noodles, and banana blossom salad served with a pungent chilli jam.
Wander back down into the lobby to continue the culinary journey at Tilda, a space that feels like a pearl in design and with a menu that heroes local Australian produce – ruby snapper filets, mud crabs, saddleback pork tomahawks –prepared with fiesse over charcoal. It’s hard to look past signature dishes like the Mafaldine lobster served in a
moreish shellfish utter, or the chilled scallops doused with a delicate drizzle of lemon myrtle, tamarind and coconut. The other signature here is the bread-and-butter service, prepared tableside and starring saltbush focaccia, whipped Pepe Saya butter and wildflower honey.
From here it’s a few metres to Bar Tilda, where the attentive service continues in the form of a roaming martini trolley –my suave Italian mixologist suggests the house Tilda Martini, shaking lemon-scented gin with Ferrand orange curacao, pomelo dry vermouth, eucalyptus, frosted lemon sherbet and aromatic pepper.
While hanging out in your hotel’s restaurants and bars is de rigueur in many other corners of the globe, the concept hasn’t widely caught on in Australia. Until now. Sofitel Sydney Wentworth’s partnership with House Made Hospitality turns heads and gives me plenty of reasons to linger. Although not for too long… my dreamy Junior Suite awaits.
The hotel’s 436 rooms and suites are fresh and light in design via earthy hues and textures: caramel leather armchairs, a sandy sofa with plump throw pillows, custom ceramic lighting, and beautiful black-and-white photographs that showcase the hotel’s heritage throughout the decades. When I peek out the window, I can see the Sydney Harbour Bridge – this view never gets tired.
In-room niceties range from French Balmain amenities (this is a Sofitel, after all) to an Australian-focused minibar of Koko Black chocolate, Archie Rose gin, and Stone and Wood ale. And that marbled tub in the bathroom is a stunner, with soaking salts and a loofah to add to the indulgence.
As a non-driver, I have always been an advocate for living – and staying – in places that put you front-and-centre of the action. And Sofitel Sydney Wentworth doesn’t disappoint – wander a few steps and you’re at Circular Quay, the Opera House or The Rocks. The setting has inspired many of the hotel’s partnerships, which means that depending on the season of your stay you can nab exclusive tickets to a show, or enjoy a themed musical high-tea in the lobby.
But despite the location allures, I’m hard pressed to drag myself away from the sofa in my suite. This rande dame has many more stories I need to hear.
sofitelsydney.com.au
OPPOSITE Botanical themes flow throughout the hotel’s design
FLIGHT NUMBER CX162
AIRCRAFT Airbus A350-1000
DEPARTURE TIME 11:05
SEATING 23D
FLIGHT TIME 9 hours, 30 mins
REVIEWED BY Madelin Tomelty
While Cathay Pacific launches its impressive all-new Business Class Aria Suites on the very day I am due to depart Sydney, it isn’t Australia’s turn to experience this luxe new offering… just yet. In a lucky twist, though, the Boeing 777-300ER typically used on the SydneyHong Kong route has been swapped out for the sleeker Airbus A350, on which Cathay Pacific debuted a redesigned Business Class offering in 2019. This means a fresher, more modern-looking and more comfortable flght experience in the 46-seat cabin, laid out in a 1x2x1 reverse herringbone configuration.
At only four years old, my pod in the centre of the fial row feels new-ish, unlike some of the other well-worn Business Class cabins in the sky. The seat itself – designed by Studio F.A. Porsche – has direct aisle access, but doesn’t feel as private as I had expected, with a lower seat divider that means I can see rather a lot of my neighbour while we are both sitting upright. The space, though, is ample. When converted into a flatbed, it measures 190cm long and 51cm wide, giving me plenty of room to stretch out. Although the fim seat would benefit from a plush topper to alleviate aching hips on overnight flghts, the accompanying linenlike bedding feels high-end and suitably
cosy. The space offers multiple convenient stowaway compartments that easily allow for my carry-on items, including a water-bottle cavity under the armrest, a netted pocket inside the cabinet door for technology and precious items, and an under-ottoman compartment for shoes and bags.
The wine list on board is a mix of French, Australian and New Zealand varietals, with a Portuguese dessert wine thrown in for good measure. The champagne on offer is Drappier Carte d’Or Brut, a delicious bubbles with aromas of golden stone fruit, honeycomb and pastry.
Meanwhile, Cathay Pacific’s signature cocktails include the Cloud Nine (vodka, Cointreau, Sprite and lemon juice) and the non-alcoholic Cathay Delight, featuring kiwi juice, coconut milk and fresh mint. There is an international selection of craft beer available, including Cathay Pacific’s own Betsy pale ale, coffee by illy and a selection of teas by JING.
Cathay Pacific gives Business Class passengers the choice of pre-selecting their preferred in-flght meals from 10 days up to 24 hours before departure, which is a nice touch if you fly regularly. For those who like the element of surprise, you’re guaranteed to fid something that your
palette appreciates from the on-board menu, such as a starter of creamed-corn soup or Indian tandoori prawns with onion-cucumber-tomato salad; and a main of duck confit, orange and pecan in date jus with broccolini and potato puree.
Or, perhaps, stir-fried seafood with XO sauce served with pak choy and steamed jasmine rice, accompanied by watercress and chicken soup. I don’t have any room left after my duck, but if you’re up for the challenge, there’s apple crumble or flourless chocolate cake on the cards for dessert. Delicious.
In an era where it seems every airline has a luxury beauty brand partnership in place for its Business Class cabins, it’s saying something that I am impressed by Cathay Pacific’s offering.
The skincare products are from British beauty brand Bamford (known for its ethical and sustainable ethos), and the lovely leather zip-up amenities pouch includes a trio of Holy Grail travel products – lip balm, hand cream and hydrating face mist – along with the usual suspects: toothbrush and toothpaste, ear plugs and mouthwash.
It’s a good thing I wasn’t expecting pyjamas (there aren’t any) but I do appreciate the slippers – handy when popping to the bathroom in between binge-watching episodes of The egime
OPPOSITE Cathay’s A350 spacious business class cabin
I love the convenience of the ‘do not disturb’ button in the entertainment system, which alerts the Cathay Pacific staff o leave you be if you’re not interested in meal service. The singletouch seat control, too, is intuitive and seamless, while the 18.5” TV and 4.3” handset look and feel up-to-the-minute and are a big improvement on the older style offered on the fleet’s 777-300ER aircrafts (gradually being upgraded to the Aria Suites).
Because one First Class lounge just won’t do, Cathay Pacific has two impressive offerings at Hong Kong International Airport, open to those holding a First Class ticket on Cathay Pacific or other oneworld member airlines departing from Hong Kong, and oneworld Emerald Members.
The Wing, conveniently located immediately to your left after passing through immigration, is best known for its ‘cabanas’ – private shower suites equipped with a bathtub, shower, daybed and workspace. While it’s a shame the designers didn’t actually give the tub design a test-run – it’s so unbelievably long you can’t actually sit up in it – it’s certainly a step-up from the usual shower pods on offer in most lounges. I love the champagne bar at The Wing, with its
menu of Moët Rosé, Veuve Clicquot and Baron de Rothschild, which makes me wish I was travelling with company. An even more luxurious experience awaits at The Pier. Located near Gate 63, this outstanding lounge is set one level down from the main concourse, and is well worth the stroll from immigration for the peaceful atmosphere, luxurious design (rich timbers and veined marble) and exclusive amenities on offer upon your arrival – including spa services and private day suites. Hot tip: put your name down at the spa as soon as you arrive – there is usually a long wait, so you’ll also need a decent layover – and then relish the moment your buzzer vibrates, alerting you to your turn to a 15-minute complimentary shoulder, head or foot massage. It’s the reset I need for another long flght ahead.
At the full-service, à la carte restaurant (also available at The Wing), the menu is nothing short of sensational, featuring a tight but satisfying selection of Asian and Western dishes. My wonton noodles with handcrafted pork and prawn dumplings is an umami explosion, and it’s only a shame I don’t have the appetite to try the wagyu cheese burger or scallop risotto –both of which look as appetising as the restaurant’s design is inviting.
cathaypacific.com
From heather-strewn glens to golden forests and white-sand beaches, the small but perfectly formed nation of Scotland is alive with natural wonder and an abundance of wildlife
WORDS BY MATT BRACE
The beech and oak woods of Dunkeld and Birnam are ablaze with millions of ochre and flame-yellow leaves. The light fitering through these curtains of colour feels almost beatific. As I stroll to the stone Hermitage Bridge to watch salmon leaping up the Falls of Braan I am almost smug. “Scotland in autumn will be dark and miserable,” my friends scoffed. If they could see me now.
To get here I drove side roads that resembled those featured in TV car adverts, with jaw-dropping vistas around every corner and gold and cinnamon blizzards of leaves whirling in the rear-view mirror. I’ve visited Scotland countless times, but I’ve never seen it so vibrant. This iot of colour is being repeated right across the highlands and islands for these few joyous weeks of autumn, with Perthshire and Aberdeenshire vying for the ‘most spectacular leaves’ award.
Scurrying through this autumn wonderland are Scotland’s iconic animals, some of which are easier to see at this time of year. In the riverside grounds of Dunkeld House Hotel, red deer graze in the paddocks and a red squirrel hops from the undergrowth right in front of me. Its rust-hued ear tufts quiver and its cheeks are comically inflated with nuts as it looks for a place to hide them for the coming winter. Roughly two thirds of the UK’s red squirrels call Scotland’s forests home, but thanks to conservation efforts they are now thriving in urban parks and gardens, too.
Another success story is the beaver, recently reintroduced to Scotland. Fresh from bombing around Loch Tay on a speedboat, courtesy of Loch Tay Safaris, I calm my adrenaline by admiring an impressive beaver lodge right next to the marina. No sign of the architect, though. Presumably it is having a well-deserved nap after its mammoth building project.
It’s not just the Scottish mainland where wildlife abounds – it’s prevalent on the islands as well. On Hoy in the Orkney Islands, I spot a white-tailed sea eagle hunting over the waves, while on the Isle of Mull I nearly drive off te road as I see two otters frolicking on the seaweed-draped shoreline. A day later, crossing the Little Minch from the Isle of Skye to the magnificently wild island of Harris, I see dolphins in the distance… or maybe they are porpoises – it’s hard to tell in the blinding sunlight. As if that wasn’t exciting enough, I then spend a memorable two hours near the island’s whitesand beaches at the North Harris Eagle Observatory watching phenomenal golden eagles soaring on the thermals.
Ths riot of colour is being repeated right across the highlands and islands for these few joyous weeks of autumn, with Perthshire and Aberdeenshire vying for the ‘most spectacular leaves’ award.
Sitting on the banks of Loch Tay is an interpretive museum that quite brilliantly evokes the lives of Iron Age Scots. The Scottish Crannog Centre focuses on the ancient roundhouses –or crannogs – that locals built on wooden stilts over the loch waves. The centre’s largely local staff pirited me back in time to a much wilder, but also more sustainable, age where food and household items were all made by hand. It is fascinating and fun, and well worth a stop as you journey through the highlands.
SEIZING THE ‘SEASGAIR’ MOMENT
There’s another phenomenon at work here in autumn. The Danes call it hygge but on this side of the North Sea it’s known as seasgair or còsagach – Gaelic words meaning something close to cosy, snug and protected. As the days get shorter and the wind carries the promise of storms and snow, animals and humans alike seize the seasgair moment. I fid it everywhere on my autumnal journey around Scotland: sipping singlemalt whisky with friends on comfy sofas in the Atholl Arms in Dunkeld, sheltering in a bothy (shack) on a windblown highland safari, and poaching myself in Taymouth Marina’s loch-side HotBox sauna.
Next to the HotBox is Ferryman’s Inn, which is also awash with seasgair as I enjoy a delicious candlelit fish-ad-chip dinner with a sheepskin rug over my knees after a cold, misty evening kayak across Loch Tay. Plenty of seasgair the next day, too, as I cook for myself at a farm called Ballintaggart near Pitlochry. The place has been set up by chef Chris Rowley and his brother Andrew, and centres around a cooking class. Chris teaches me to make a monkfish eviche and roast a celeriac that has travelled all of 10 metres from the veggie patch. Meanwhile, my carnivorous friends prepare and barbecue a haunch of venison from the surrounding hills.
Ballintaggart is the perfect example of Scotland’s ability to produce a remarkable volume and variety of produce despite many of its highland and island landscapes being unsuitable for growing anything. The farm prides itself on sprouting almost all produce on-site, and being as sustainable as possible. It also has a couple of charming rooms, a self-catering cottage, a farmhouse for groups, and the small and delightful Grandtully Hotel nearby. There are few things as wonderfully Scottish as nursing a wee dram of single malt while sitting in a cosy room at Ballintaggart just before dinner, watching the autumn sun glint off te beech woods.
After the monkfish I rave more Scottish seafood and head some 100 kilometres northeast to the harbour town of Stonehaven and a gem of a restaurant. The Tolbooth is one of the warmest and most welcoming restaurants in Scotland, a far cry from its former life as a jail. The shellfish isque would not be out of place in any restaurant in Marseille or New Orleans, and the filet of hake with crayfish ornay and seaweed hollandaise instantly becomes one of my top fie meals of 2024. It’s the perfect place to end my whirlwind autumnal tour of Scotland’s highlands and islands, and raise a glass to celebrate this spectacularly wild and wonderful country.
Getting there
Emirates flies from ustralia to Dubai then non-stop to both Edinburgh and Glasgow. Qatar flies from ustralia to Doha then non-stop to Edinburgh (and Glasgow via London). There’s a much broader choice of flights into ondon; from there it’s an hour’s flight north – or tae the train.
Staying there
Rates at Ballintaggart start from £185 (about AU$365) per night, including breakfast. ballintaggart.com
Taymouth Marina has four charming, self-catering houseboats moored on Loch Tay from £360 (about AU$700) for a minimum two-night stay. taymouthmarina.com
Autumn in Scotland means fewer tourists, less traffic, more wildlife, loads of delicious produce, plenty of seasgair moments and none of the dreaded summer midges. Instead of flying in, take the recently refurbished Caledonian Sleeper train service from London – a far more romantic and sustainable way to arrive in Scotland.
Despite economic hardship, Havana’s soul still sings. Beneath the Cuban capital’s timeworn beauty remains a city of rhythm and resilience, where music, art and creativity flourish
WORDS BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER
Sandalwood incense wafts high into the rafters of a bijou Havana studio, thick with stacks of vinyl, speakers and a deck. DJ Jigüe, who set up Cuba’s fist independent urban music label, wears a white shell necklace and a black baseball cap. He’ll take me on a journey through Cuba’s music history via his record collection, he says. I have no idea what to expect. Most travellers have heard of global musical sensation Buena Vista Social Club, which catapulted the island nation into the world’s imagination. But more than that?
DJ Jigüe takes me on a deep dive into the origins of Cuba’s music, expertly switching between engaging commentary, clips of tunes as vinyl spins on the player, and turns at performing air-trombone, -bass and -piano. I’m mesmerised. Key moments are brought to life: the US and Cuban meeting of musical minds that fused Afro-Cuban percussion and jazz for the fist time; the suspension of US and Cuban relations in 1961, isolating Cuba’s musicians from new musical genres; the youth who captured North American rock and funk played on US radio via illegal antennae angled towards Florida; Cuban sailors who packed their luggage with records in the ’70s; the fusion
of North American funk and rock with Cuban music; and the arrival of rock, hip-hop, electronic music and rap on the island. If I had to go back to school, DJ Jigüe would be my ‘profe’, as Cubans affectionately call their teachers.
And it isn’t just about the music – I’m immersed in a brilliant potted history of Cuba over the last century featuring its fractious relationship with the US, its pull into the orbit of the Soviet Union, and its penchant for featuring Africa percussion instruments in music to this day.
Between the 16th century until slavery abolition in 1886, Cuba’s Spanish colonial rulers trafficked some 800,000 people from the west coast of Africa. African roots, especially Yoruba from Nigeria, run deep across the country, and can be found in religion – as well as music.
From DJ Jigüe’s house in Centro Habana – a tightly packed residential area of dilapidated colonial homes sandwiched between the Spanish colonial heart of Old Havana and the leafy neighbourhood of Vedado, with its wedding-cake mansions and theatres – we head to the western end of the Centro barrio
Elias Aseff lfonso meets me in Trillo Park, anchored with sacred Ceiba trees where offerings are left by followers of Santería, a syncretic religion that blends Roman Catholicism with the Yoruba religion of West Africa. Elias introduces me to Cuba’s pick-and-mix approach to religion, where “you can be Catholic in the morning, Protestant in the afternoon and practise Santería in the evening!”
Time your journey to Cuba for one of its festivals: January attracts dozens of Cuban and worldly musicians to perform at the high-octane International Jazz Plaza. February brings Festival De La Salsa En Cuba and cigars via Festival del Habano. March sees rhythm and dance with a drum celebration, Fiesta Del Tambor. April brings dancers into the squares of Old Havana with the Dance in Urban Landscapes celebration as well as dance festival, Ritmo Cuba. June hails the Bolero Festival. And then in October, the acclaimed International Ballet Festival takes centre stage. Finally, December sees movie fans flock to the capital for the international Havana Film Festival.
We enter a family home full of altars, stuffed baby crocodiles, masks, statues and ceramics. A turtle (for protection) skulks in a sink. Elias, a believer himself, gives me the 101 on Santería, decoding the mysteries – at least to me – of the room. He has helpful celebrity cues, too: the reason Beyoncé wore yellow when she was pregnant was that she was honouring Oshún, the goddess (or orisha) of love, fertility and water. Oshún – “a frequency of energy,” explains Elias – wears the colour yellow, and in Cuba, she is often represented by sunflowers.
Havana is full of ‘frequencies of energies’. Cubans are a garrulous lot who joke all the time and talk in proverbs. Where a few words would suffice, there is a flourish of language, an excess of wit – a lecture even, and a whole heap of warmth, despite the economic and migratory crisis gripping the island. It’s what ultimately makes this Caribbean island so thrilling and worth visiting. As my guide Jesús Noguera says: “Cubans are warm, welcoming, educated and resilient.”
We walk through Old Havana. Huge baroque buildings of coral-flecked stone dominate the large plazas, while immense buildings with portals are frilled with carved iron balconies and punctuated with halfmoon windows radiating light through stained glass, dazzling in yellow, sky blue, green and scarlet.
ABOVE, FROM LEFT
Creative Havana © Ziya Akutuer/iStock; Havana’s scenic coastal corniche © Bim/iStock
OPPOSITE, TOP
Dining out in Havana © Woodys Photos/iStock
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT
Creativity is everywhere you look © Eem Emil/iStock
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT
Music fills Havana’s streets
The sun-drenched streets are a UNESCO World Heritage Site crammed with more than 3,300 buildings dating from the city’s foundation in 1519 by Spain’s conquerors.
But it’s not a theme park. Plaza Vieja, the city’s liveliest square, is home to new businesses, galleries, shops, hotels and a school, Jesús points out. “The government has opened our economy to private business,” he tells me, “and Cubans are gaining momentum.”
Kids are kicking balls and roller skating. At a cafe, a band member plays the clave (two hardwood sticks tapped to create a penetrative fie-note, repetitive two-bar pattern), a heartstopping sound that reminds me I’m in Cuba. Customers flock to tables as two locals start moving their hips in time to the live music.
Jesús and I then slip into the groove of a different vibe: We clamber into a bubblegum-pink convertible 1954 Chevy Bel Air and cruise down Havana’s curving corniche, the Malecón, where whipped-up waves splash onto the road sending cars swerving, and fiserman with rods o ff the wall. We’re on our way to visit Cuban artists working out of their home studios. This insder access brings me into the front living rooms of some of the country’s most accomplished and interesting creatives.
Luis Enrique Camejo works in an old chocolate factory. I’ve always been drawn to his art – in particular his canvases viewed through the prism of drops of rain, which I fid ethereally beautiful. Whole monochrome scenes of Havana are loaded with classic cars and traffic lights. “The rain always gives a sensation of melancholy. Here in Cuba, we’re very marked by nostalgia, melancholy, separation…,” he says, offering me the last beer from his recent birthday party.
“Cubans are a garrulous lot who joke all the time and talk in proverbs. Where a few words would suffice, there is a flourish of language, an excess of wit.”
Abel Barroso’s work is anchored in globalisation and migration. He creates woodcuts of robots, games, drones and smartphones – the latter speaking of the island’s undeveloped stance (mobile data on phones was permitted only seven years ago). One installation depicts a ball kicked between migrants from one team (developed countries) facing another (undeveloped countries). “My work is very serious, but I present it with humour. It’s a way to make commentary on the reality of the world,” he says.
“There’s no-one in Cuba without a family member who has left,” artist Lisandra Ramírez Bernal tells me in her front room, filed with acrylic cats wearing sunglasses, and transparent suitcases filed with valuables and souvenirs. A series of frames bursting with exquisite paper flowers speak of diversity, fragility and history.
Juan Roberto Diago also creates eye-opening art with a serious social message. I meet him at private art space, El Apartamento, inside a 1950s building where he enjoys a solo show. Portraits of long-necked women with blank eyes and no mouths line the walls. They reflect the state and fate of Black people in society today, a theme Juan has long been drawn to. “We cannot express ourselves; we don’t have our own voice,” he says.
LIKE A CUBAN
Later, Jesús and I head into the night and meet his friend René, a cigar sommelier. I’m taught how to light and smoke a Cuban cigar and pair it with local rum – the amber-coloured Santiago de Cuba goes down a treat. The annual jazz festival folk are in town. Percussionists Rodney Barreto and Jesús’ friend, Oliver Valdés, blow up the national theatre with their drumming performance. It’s exhilarating.
In just a few days, I’ve delved beyond negative headlines and tapped into Havana’s thriving wellspring of talent. It’s a privilege to have witnessed Cuba’s irrepressible artistic soul.
JOURNEY NOTES
Getting there
Numerous airlines offer flights into Cuba via Europe and the U If you travel via the US, you will be subject to US regulations. All visitors to Cuba must purchase an e-visa.
Jesús Noguera of Cuba Careo Tours has been offering tour to his native Havana and other island destinations since 2005. Jesús is a Condé Nast Traveler Cuba specialist. cubacareotours.com
Check into Gardens Havana – a beautiful boutique hotel – and make the most of the concierge team who can organise for you to attend a dinner party with Cuban creatives, a picnic on nearby beaches, or a wonderful cooking class with Lorena Faccio, a judge-turned-chef who runs her own YouTube cooking show. Lorena will open her own restaurant in Old Havana later this year. gardenshavana.com
The other boutique hotel of choice is Estancia Bohemia, which offers experiences that range from visiting a cigar plantation to rum tastings, salsa classes and photography tours. havanabohemia.com
It’s not the hustle of Ljubljana that makes it stand out – it’s the lack thereof. In the Slovenian capital you can shed the rush of the world and enjoy the beauty of life’s little pleasures
WORDS BY NATASHA BAZIKA
In medieval Ljubljana, dishonest bakers were caged and dunked in the Ljubljanica river – a punishment that might explain why this city’s culinary traditions have remained so honest. This eculiar bit of history comes to light as I check into Zlata Ladjica, a boutique hotel sitting beside the very same waterway. Gregor, the concierge, gives me a brief overview of the 15 rooms, each a nod to the Slovenian capital’s past. Mine, inspired by an 11th-century goldsmith’s shop, shimmers with gilded accents. Other rooms pay tribute to a poet, a shoemaker, and Jože Plečnik, the architect who defied the city’s distinctive look.
As tempting as the deep tub in my room is, Ljubljana awaits. Along the river, locals sip craft beers beneath cream umbrellas, their relaxed pace flowing with the water. Artisans sell honey and dragon trinkets (the city is allegedly guarded by these mythical creatures, after all), and in a place with no rush, everything feels like a long, deep exhale.
On a tucked-away side street, I’m drawn to a patisserie window with glossy desserts that wouldn’t look out of place within Michelin-starred French maestro Cédric Grolet’s repertoire. I choose the mandarin-shaped yuzu dessert and snag the last seat outside. My instinct is to eat quickly and keep exploring, but today I take a cue from the locals and let the moment stretch. With each bite, I see Ljubljana for what it is: unhurried, effortlessly charming and perfectly at ease.
Ljubljana may be a capital city, but its soul is smalltown through and through. It’s not a place of towering cathedrals or must-see museums – it’s a city of moments. The kind that pull you into its rhythm, like an open-air concert at the Križanke Summer Theater or a lazy picnic under Tivoli Park’s chestnut trees.
Above it all, Ljubljana Castle has been standing sentinel since the Middle Ages, surrounded by lush greenery that softens its stoic walls. I climb the watchtower to gaze over the city’s terracotta rooftops, rolling toward the mountains.
Slovenia is a relatively young country, gaining independence from the former Yugoslavia in 1991. Perhaps that’s why it feels no need to shout for attention. Instead, it extends a quiet invitation to discover its storybook streets, Michelin-calibre cuisine and laid-back charms.
ABOVE The city’s Triple Bridge © Dunja Wedam
OPPOSITE City scenes © Natasha Bazika
OPENING PAGE Leafy Ljubljana © iStock
With one of the EU’s largest car-free zones, Ljubljana’s city centre is best explored by walking or on board the green Urban electric train.
I walk along the cobbled streets of the old town toward the Ljubljanica, where Jože Plečnik’s architectural genius is on full display. After shaping Vienna and Prague, he returned to Ljubljana to craft a capital all his own – one where he didn’t play by the rules. Tromostovje, or Triple Bridge, dating back to 1842, replaced a medieval crossing and was later expanded by Plečnik with two pedestrian-only bridges in the 1930s – now a must-see for visitors.
A few steps further, I come face-to-face with the legendary green creatures of Dragon Bridge. Standing guard over Ljubljana, they represent strength and resilience, with a link to the city’s founding, tied to the Greek myth of Jason and the Argonauts.
As the evening buzz takes over the streets, I slip into Zlata Ladjica Restaurant, where I’m treated to a masterclass in Slovenian gastronomy. Head chef Erik Florjanc, who honed his skills in top kitchens worldwide, has returned to his roots – and he’s not the only one. A fresh wave of culinary masters are elevating Ljubljana’s foodie scene. From hand-foraged morels bathing in a silky cauliflower soup to a medallion of beef sourced from local pastures, every plate feels personal.
The wines are no exception – each glass reveals Slovenia’s burgeoning yet under-the-radar wine scene.
Since earning its fist Michelin star in 2020, Ljubljana has embraced fie dining with a refreshing lack of pretension. “We’re not trying to be something we’re not,” Florjanc says. “It’s all about Slovenia, pure and simple.” And in this simplicity lies the magic.
The following day, I take Gregor’s advice (again) and head to Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen): a summer, Friday tradition where the city’s best chefs trade their restaurants for bustling outdoor stalls. Smoke curls from sizzling grills where everything from bao buns with crispy pork belly to trofie pasta crowned with truffles – a Ligurian speciality that made its way to southwest Slovenian – is on the menu. The atmosphere is electric: cups filed with natural wines clink, live music drifts in the background and strangers swap recommendations. It’s casual, creative and quintessentially Ljubljana.
OPPOSITE, TOP Exploring by boat © Blaz Pogacar
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Dining out at Open Kitchen © Natasha Bazika
OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT Dragons watch over the city © Adriatic2Arctic
“With each bite, I see Ljubljana for what it is: unhurried, e ffortlessly charming and perfectly at ease with itself.”
© Lara Uhryn/iStock
Ljubljana might be a city of culture and charm, but let’s not forget its proximity to nature’s greatest hits. After a scenic 45-minute drive from the capital I fid myself at Lake Bled, where a fairytale island floats in the middle of waters so blue, you’d swear someone edited the scene. I’m not the only one drawn here. In summer, the lake is alive with rowboats and paddleboards, and sun-seekers lounge under blue-and-white striped umbrellas.
Deciding to seek some quiet, I venture into the emerald woods, following the trail to Ojstrica, a rocky outcrop that promises an eagle-eye view. The climb is steep, but from the top the whole lake stretches below me, encircled by the Julian Alps in soft blue and Bled Castle standing high on a craggy hill. Just beyond those mountains lies my next stop: Slovenia’s wine country.
Getting there
Ljubljana is easily reachable by train from European cities, with the central station just minutes from the city centre. International flights land at Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport
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Tennessee’s ever-crooning capital has evolved into something much more than its ‘Music City’ moniker. A melodic hub of history, culture, live gigs, toe-tapping bars, historic homes, world-class food and museums, Nashville is one of the most vibrant cities in the US. Home to celebrities such as Nicole Kidman, Reese Witherspoon and Taylor Swift, this pulsating town makes a strong case for dreaming big.
WORDS BY JENNY HEWETT
National Museum of African American Music
With its expertly curated collections, interactive exhibits and extensive gospel, jazz, blues and hip-hop playlists you can download on the spot, this is one of the world’s most incredible musical archives. Retracing the many music genres created by African Americans in the US, this soulstirring space feels like a national treasure.
Ryman Auditorium
Designed in the gothic revival style in 1892, this 2,362seat live performance venue is all original arched windows, stained glass and wooden pews. The former gospel space and world-renowned concert hall is nicknamed ‘Mother Church’ for a reason: its mind-blowing acoustics transform every gig into a spiritual experience.
Grand Ole Opry
The mecca of country music had a handful of homes before it moved into this brutalist space in 1974. Originally a live radio show, the Grand Ole Opry has become a rite of passage for performing artists, and every week rising stars across a multitude of genres play to crowds here.
Honky Tonk Highway
No trip to Nashville is complete without a sing-a-long at the rowdy live music venues along Lower Broadway. It’s hard to miss this main drag, what with the supersized cowboy boot signs, neon lights and bars that pump out tunes every day of the week from 10am until 3am. Conquer the ride-on bull at the Wild Beaver Saloon (just off te main strip) and make a toilet stop at Redneck Riviera to check out the basins fashioned out of tyres and petrol bowsers.
The ‘Man In Black’ is bowed down to inside this temple of all things Cash. The somewhat pokey space displays artefacts and paraphernalia, including the country music star’s fieemblazoned patent-leather cowboy boots. Also on show are handwritten lyrics, guitars and interactive exhibits allowing visitors to listen to an archive of his tracks.
Owned by the seventh president of the US, this more than 450-hectare heritage property and former cotton plantation is 15 minutes from Downtown and comprises an immaculately preserved main mansion, winery, walking trails and gardens. Learn about the ‘people’s’ president’ and the life of the enslaved women and men who worked here.
Frist Art Museum
Occupying the city’s historic post office building, this not-forprofit space has an inspiring roster of exhibitions on the cards for this year, including a local display exploring the topic of food’s role in bringing people together; later, view photographs taken by Paul McCartney during peak Beatles era.
Folk
Located in hip East Nashville, this casual spot has all the light, laidback appeal of somewhere you might fid in Byron Bay or Bali. Think atural wine, elevated share plates and wood-fied pizzas with clams, parsley, bonito and lemon drizzled with the state’s famous hot honey.
Bastion
Tucked away in the city’s emerging warehouse area, this speakeasy-esque 24-seat dining spot is hidden behind a nondescript metal door. Inside, choose how many dishes you want and settle in for vinyls and a tasting menu that might include raw trout with chestnut and rose.
Edley’s Bar-B-Que
Southern barbecue is a national sport in Tennessee. This all out meat assault has chains throughout the city and dishes up heaped servings of everything from smoked wings to pork ribs, brisket and fried catfish ith sides. Order the platter and prepare for a food coma.
Radnor Lake State Park
Spot deer and wild turkeys as you circle the lake and wander the unpaved trails of this protected nature oasis, just 20 minutes from Downtown. The biodiverse, 553-hectare park is home to all sorts of other wildlife including owls, herons, mink and otters, as well as hundreds of species of wildflowers.
One of the city’s most iconic stays, this grande dame opened in 1910 and is a brisk walk to the Ryman Auditorium in Downtown. The hotel underwent a full renovation in 2022 and staff ae dressed by Reese Witherspoon’s label Draper James.
A rooftop infinty pool overlooking the Cumberland River provides much-needed refreshment during sultry Nashville summers. Guests can book a songwriter experience, during which a Nashville artist will perform their original hits in your private suite.
Nashville’s diverse ’hoods are surprisingly spread out, and unless you don’t plan on venturing further than Downtown (a huge mistake), the best way to get around is ride share. Alternatively, electric bike fleet BCycle has stations around the city offering bikes for hire, as do on-the-spot scooter companies such as Bird and Lime.
Think of Rio de Janeiro and picture golden beaches, lush mountains and a pulsating nightlife fuelled by samba. This passionate, dynamic and colourful Brazillian city is a destination bursting with a zest for life
THIS PAGE Legendary luxe hotel Copacabana Palace on Rio’s main beach © Marco Valmaranara
Rio de Janeiro is on sale now for AU$185
With gilded carriages, Michelin-star-curated meals and new journeys into Malaysia’s tiger country on offer, the iconic Eastern & Oriental Express roars with new life
As our train tosses passing trackside trees into a frenzy, I deliberate whether to choose a fruit cup or dainty caramel tart from the tiered high-tea cake stand before me, before settling on a petite melting moment. I pop it into my mouth – but before I can finish t and take another sip of my French champagne, just topped up by a dapper waiter, the vista has changed. Now, I see vigilant rows of verdant palms and rubber plantations shading cows from the scorching afternoon sun, alongside simple concrete and corrugatedroof houses, remnants of the tin mining communities that originally serviced this railway line. My train is a far cry from those that once chugged along here, though.
I’m aboard Southeast Asia’s iconic Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O), a luxurious and utterly exclusive hotel on wheels, where every detail nods to the grand, romantic era of slow travel. In the plush red-velvet Malaya dining room, the crisp whitelinen tablecloths, signature embossed fie-bone china, shiny silverware mirroring my reflection and even the wandering magician with his slick card tricks, all echo the opulence of its European sister, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. That iron horse may have inspired Agatha Christie’s famous novel Murder on the Orient Express, but here in Southeast Asia, the only thing guests of this train are ‘murdering’ is champagne.
The inaugural E&O departed Singapore for Bangkok in 1993. During its Covid-enforced four-year hiatus, all soft furnishings were refurbished, before resuming service in February 2024 –but this time, not to Bangkok. Two new four-day, three-night return journeys now operate between Singapore and Malaysia: The ‘Essence of Malaysia’ and ‘Wild Malaysia’. As one of 56 passengers on the latter route (capacity is 64), I’m bubbling with excitement. Nodding to the train’s golden emblem and its partnership with global conservation charity Save Wild Tigers, we’re travelling to Taman Negara National Park, home of the critically endangered Malayan tiger, then on to Penang and back to Singapore.
E&O’s carriages evoke the grandeur of a bygone era. There’s floor-to-ceiling polished elm marquetry; cherry, teak and rosewood panelling; a bottle-green marble ensuite with brass handles, hooks and taps; silk-embroidered upholstery; and handmade Thai carpets. The new room colours reflect the train’s storied past and the regions it travels through: lavish golds in the full-carriage Presidential Suite, rich jungle greens and oceanic blues in the State Cabins – a nod to the landscapes of Penang – and peacock blues and burgundy reds in the Pullman Cabins, referencing Malaysia’s bustling capital of Kuala Lumpur.
In my cabin I fid plenty of special touches, too, including a soft cotton E&O insignia robe and slippers, lavender eye mask, stainless-steel monogrammed water bottle, a decorative hand fan, and a carry bag upcycled from the train’s former soft furnishing fabrics.
In July 2024, the E&O Express added a Dior Spa carriage, the fist Dior Spa in Southeast Asia. Guests can now enjoy fie invigorating, tailored treatments by the French maison’s wellness experts, including Dior Prestige facials and genuinely immersive Asianinspired massage experiences.
On the E&O, cocktails and dinners are glamorous, diamondstudded affairs, so it’s wise to pack your fiery. Each evening, women glide by in elegant flowing silk dresses and gold lurex tops, and men don tuxedos or velvet jackets, ready for the evening’s soirée ahead.
Thee Michelin-starred Taiwanese chef André Chiang’s innovative meals are an irresistible gastronomic journey. Think avoursome ‘nine peppers jus’ 16-hour-braised beef cheek, deliciously spicy laksa and indulgent desserts like a cacao ganache with ‘jungle spices’. All-inclusive meals feature seasonal, sustainably sourced ingredients that celebrate Malaysia’s kaleidoscope of cultures.
The party atmosphere lingers after dinner in the velvety Piano Bar, gleaming in shades of gold and embodying a jazz club ambience. Sultry songs accompanied by piano and saxophone fill te air, and a cornucopia of vintage champagnes, signature cocktails and digestifs flow freely until the wee hours.
Despite the word ‘express’ in its name, the E&O train is anything but. It stops often, primarily because of the single narrow track – which causes extreme sway (ideal for rocking you to sleep) – but also for our journey’s tailormade off-board experiences.
At Merapoh station, energetic guests e-bike past kampungs (villages) to Shooting Stars and Dragon’s Scale caves. Meanwhile, sitting on padded planks across an open-back Jeep, I join the Malaysian tiger conservation group heading into the jungles of one of the world’s oldest rainforests, Taman Negara National Park. Charging along narrow tracks surrounded by towering trees, the wind whips through my hair, fresh forest aromas fill y nostrils, and the high-pitched siren of cicadas fills y ears. The conservationists tell us that fewer than 150 Malayan tigers remain in the wild, and even though camera-trap monitoring helps, poachers remain the animal’s primary predator.
At Kelah Sanctuary, schools of protected kelah fish (known to be an excellent indicator of ecological river health) swim through the waters of the Juram River. We indulge in delicious local cakes, fresh fruits, pandan water, coffee and ginger tea while the calls of hornbills and gibbons compete in the distance.
OPPOSITE,
“As I admire the 16 elegant bottle-greenand-cream striped carriages festooned with the renowned gold tiger emblem – now gleaming on the polished concrete platform – I reflect on this memorable once-in-alifetime journey I’ve just experienced.”
TOP, RIGHT E&O ’s
Arriving in colourful George Town on Penang Island, my fellow passengers and I can choose to free-wheel around town in a tri-shaw, discover the cultural side of this historic town as a pillion passenger on a vintage Vespa scooter, or opt for the more modern transportation of a luxury air-conditioned van for a ‘Flavour of Penang’ tour. This elf-confessed foodie doesn’t have to tell you which one I choose.
After sampling delicious local delicacies and spices at Penang’s Chowrasta Market, we head up Penang Hill to Eythrope Boutique Villa – a 100-year-old art deco residence that is now a Small Luxury Hotel of the World. On the spacious verandah, with 180-degree views of the city and Penang Strait, we learn the intricacies of local homestyle Chinese and Indian cooking before enjoying each delectable dish with chilled Australian sparkling wine.
All too soon, we’re disembarking at Singapore’s Woodlands Station. As I admire the 16 elegant bottle-green-and-cream striped carriages festooned with the renowned gold tiger emblem – now gleaming on the polished concrete platform – I reflect on this memorable once-in-a-lifetime journey I’ve just experienced. As Nelson DeMille’s character Carlos says in Th Cuban Affair: “Getting there is only half the fun.” I couldn’t agree more
Eastern & Orient Express ’s three-night, four-day ‘Wild Malaysia’ journey departs Singapore, return, from March through October. The three-night, four-day ‘Essence of Malaysia’ journey departs Singapore return from November through February. Rates start from US$4,150 per person, per room (about AU$6,680) including complimentary transfers, ensuite accommodation on board, entertainment, cocktails, fine wines, all meals and fully guided offboard excursions. belmond.com
With its out-of-this-world beauty and a 250-year legacy that speaks to the timeless allure of Lake Como, Passalacqua embodies what Italian dreams are made of
If you set out on an adventure with the simple mission of visiting the most naturally beautiful places on this wondrous planet we call home, at some point in the journey you would fid yourself at Lake Como. “The precise location of Heaven on Earth has never been established, but it may very well be right here,” American journalist Herb Caen once said of this magnificent lake – the deepest in Italy – at the foothills of the Alps in the north of the country. Specifically, Caen was talking about Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, on the lake’s south-western coastline. But I’d argue that’s only because he wasn’t alive when Passalacqua opened its doors in 2022.
This xtraordinary hotel, located four kilometres to the north near the town of Moltrasio, has a magical quality that is hard to put into words – even for someone who does precisely that for a living. When we pull up on Passalacqua’s gravel driveway in the autumn, I am presented with so much visual delight at every angle that I can’t help but peel off fom my group, wide-eyed and goosebumpy, to dart around the bucolic grounds. I try to take it all in – both mentally and with my iPhone camera, which I throw around with no care for the videography whatsoever, so enthralled am I by the view. The panorama that is Lake Como – punctuated by towering cedar and cypress trees – is enchanting even on an overcast day, while the sprawling garden’s sculpted topiaries, clipped hedges and groomed lawns suggest everything at this hotel will be manicured to perfection – even the staff, who are donning ultra-chic uniforms that wouldn’t look out of place on Milan’s Via Monte Napoleone.
It’s no wonder Passalacqua took home the trophy in the inaugural 2023 World’s 50 Best awards – less than a year after opening, no less – and went on to secure the runner-up spot in 2024. If it’s not stealing your breath, it’s bringing a tear to your eye, as it did with my colleague when she was fist shown her Grand Junior Suite in the original 12-room villa of the hotel. 18 months later, fiding myself in the very same palatial suite, I start my days as the residents might have done centuries ago: by throwing open my windows to those exquisite gardens (and, now, an iconic tangerine Fiat), with the crystalline lake and mountain panorama beyond. And then: coffee and a soak in the grandest of grand tubs.
“I start my days as the residents might have done centuries ago: by throwing open my windows to those exquisite gardens (and, now, an iconic tangerine Fiat), with the crystalline lake and mountain panorama beyond.”
It’s the stuff f dreams. And not just mine. “When we came here for the fist time, we felt a sense of marvel,” says third-generation Lake Como hotelier and Passalacqua CEO Valentina De Santis. “Touring around and seeing the different spaces, we ‘wowed’ so many times because there was always something unexpected… it was really, really mesmerising.”
The De Santis family – Lake Como natives and owners of the storied Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year – acquired what was then Villa Passalacqua in late 2018. A national monument, it was named after 18th century custodian Count Andrea LuciniPassalacqua, scion of one of Como’s leading noble families, who extended what was at the time a smaller, more modest building on land once owned by Pope Innocent XI. It took three years – with Covid in the middle – to restore the villa to its former glory.
Like Valentina on her fist visit, I, too, fid myself in a state of awe at Passalacqua, admiring the historic details and wondering at the stories held within the Villa’s relatively minimalist façade: its transportative original frescoes; its Venetian terrazzo floors that have seen nearly three centuries’ worth of visitors – and the evolving shoe styles with it; the romantic, opulent suites adorned with Como silk, sparkling chandeliers and antiques sourced from all over Italy. Then there’s the Palazz and the Casa al Lago (‘house by the lake’), sheltered within the ancient walls of the expansive grounds, which offer a further 12 exquisitely-designed rooms between them, each unique in their style and ambience. Oh, if these walls could talk.
“Our aim was to take out the best from the history of the place and transform it into a timeless style,” says Valentina. “We didn’t want to put in contemporary things, and we didn’t want it to be too historical or stuffy. We wanted the place to be welcoming and classic.” She adds that she wanted Passalacqua to conjure the emotions of its origins: a family home, a place where guests could embrace dolce far niente – the sweetness of doing nothing.
While my suite, with its views over pristine Lake Como, is the largest and most lavish room I’ve ever stayed in, remarkably it pales in comparison to the jaw-gaping Bellini Suite – a 250-square-metre lake-view corner abode that was once a grandiose music room. The neoclassical space features a magnificent Murano chandelier as its centrepiece, hanging from a double-height vaulted ceiling replete with original fresco, and boasts a status as the place where early 19thcentury opera composer Vincenzo Bellini penned La Sonnambula
As a guest of Passalacqua, I follow in the footsteps of other illustrious visitors including Napoleon Bonaparte and Winston Churchill. As Valentina explains, “Every single room and every place has a story.” Indeed, Lake Como’s otherworldly beauty has cast its spell over countless generations of travellers –
OPENING PAGE
Grand Hotel Tremezzo celebrates its 50th birthday this year, but the Art Nouveau masterpiece dates back to 1910, when it was fist branded the Tremezzo Hotel. The 90room hotel, renowned for its breathtaking panoramic views of the lake and Bellagio, is home to La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi, one of the most prestigious dining experiences on Lake Como. The restaurant pays tribute to Gualtiero Marchesi, widely regarded as the father of modern Italian cuisine and the fist Italian chef to receive three Michelin stars. His signature dish, saffon risotto with edible gold leaf, has become a symbol of Italian haute cuisine.
serving as a well of inspiration for numerous poets, musicians, actors and artists, while luring the well-heeled to its shores for sun-drenched summers for hundreds of years. Surely, there was no place on Lake Como more befitting of Bonaparte’s and Churchill’s standing than Villa Passalacqua.
For all its fiery, this lake retreat wouldn’t have its Passalacqua reputation without those gardens, fist laid out in the 18th century and brought back to their original architecture for the hotel’s opening. With each of the tiered terraces offering its own unique personality, you could easily spend an entire day exploring this veritable Garden of Eden – never once setting foot inside.
Enjoy a friendly match at the tennis court or a leisurely game of bocce; meet the chickens at the coup; smell the rosemary and thyme in the herb garden – or better yet, the blossoms at the rose garden; take a stroll to admire the fountains; or meander through the olive grove and ancient fruit garden. In summer, few activities could be more compelling than sun-worshipping on a lounger under a vintage-inspired parasol at the oh-soglamorous pool that is straight out of a Bond film. en, hop on over to Double J bar to sip on a tipple surrounded by furnishings adorned with the vibrant prints and colours of flowers at peak-bloom. Whichever adventure you choose, you can be sure it will come with a side of Lake Como views.
It is quite miraculous how many unique spaces the De Santises have managed to carve out – quite literally – at Passalacqua, and none is brimming with mystique like the hotel’s latest luxe offering. Beneath the tranquil spa – an exquisite Moroccan-inspired retreat in the Palazz, adorned with brass pendant chandeliers and boho rattan furniture – lies a hidden gallery of tunnels, excavated in the 18th century and only rediscovered after Passalacqua’s opening. A walk through the shadowy passageway – dramatically lit by ornate sconces against exposed brick walls – leads to a moody, vaulted stone chamber, where a steam bath and sauna await to lull and soothe. At the other end of the passageway lies a rocky, curvy relaxation area and cerulean indoor heated pool that gaze out onto the Italian garden terrace – an ethereal enclave perfectly fit for a water nymph.
Despite the sense of wonder that Passalacqua inspires, no-one was more surprised by the win at the 50 Best awards in 2023 than the De Santis family. “Nobody was expecting that of a small, tiny property, 24 rooms, just opened, familyowned, independent... it was very emotional,” says Valentina.
Valentina’s grandfather bought the grande dame of Lake Como, Grand Hotel Tremezzo, in 1975, and the property –with its postcard-perfect position on the lakefront and now Instagram-famous lake pool – climbed to gain cult status in the ensuing decades. While the De Santis family also owns Sheraton Lake Como and manages the breathtaking, historic exclusive-use Villa Sola Cabiati – where I (humble brag) spend the night not long after Taylor Swift and her entourage – Passalacqua represents the family’s fist hotel purchase in 30 years. It may well be the last.
“We are not anxious to grow,” Valentina says. Rather, the family is on a mission to prove Passalacqua can maintain its spot among the world’s best hotels as it keeps on doing what it does best: offering a place where guests can feel at home –in a little piece of paradise.
“It’s a family story,” she says. “It comes from the heart, and so I always hope that guests staying with us feel that there is so much love behind the property.”
We certainly do.
Rates at Passalacqua start from €1,100 (around AU$1,800) with breakfast. Rates at Grand Hotel Tremezzo start from 900 euros (around AU$1,480) with breakfast. Rates at Villa Sola Cabiati start from 10,000 euros (around AU$16,450) for exclusive use of the villa, daily breakfast, 24-hour butler service, daily housekeeping service and a private chef. passalacqua.it, grandhoteltremezzo.com
views of Lake Como
LEFT, BOTTOM Villa Sola Cabiati’s reception room
OPPOSITE Poolside
plushness at Passalacqua © Ricky Monti
Villa Sola Cabiati comes replete with private staff, lush arabesque gardens, six beautiful suites and an aristocratic history dating back to the 16th century. It features original frescoes, Murano glass chandeliers and priceless artwork, antiques and heirlooms – including the bed in which Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte slept when they visited the Palazzo Serbelloni in Milan – all perfectly preserved. Not to mention those allencompassing lake vistas…
With Michelin-star credentials, chef Viviana Varese heads up Passalacqua’s elegant restaurant. Its ethos is rooted in refied home-style Italian cooking that showcases Northern Italy’s bounty. Expect a decadent menu including puff astry potato with egg yolk, sour cream and caviar; pasta and potatoes with pistachio, basil and pecorino; and tube fish in uttery sauce.
Tucked away in the central highlands of Bali, where lush jungle meets the mighty Ayung River, Mandapa is a sanctuary that masterfully weaves together the rhythms of nature, holistic wellness and local culture
Ican breathe again, standing in the sky-high, cantilevered lobby of Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, in Bali’s gloriously green Ubud region. At 250 metres above sea level, we are hovering over the treeline, seemingly floating in the cool, moist air of Bali’s spiritual and cultural heart. I feel worlds away from the traffic and cacophony of the Indonesian island’s bustling Seminyak and its neighbouring beachside areas. While this sense of sanctum is not particularly unique –it’s one of the reasons people come to Ubud, after all – I have a feeling there will be plenty of treasures to uncover at this celebrated resort.
Mandapa’s grounds span a vast 10 hectares – from the allencompassing panorama at the suspended lobby and Japanese fusion restaurant, Ambar, 76 metres down to the villa-speckled valley and the banks of Bali’s sacred Ayung River, frequently alive with the delighted shrieks of rafters. The resort is anchored by that quintessentially Ubud sight, a rice paddy that – like the 100-year-old Hindu shrine still visited by local villagers – is not just for show. At Mandapa, the magic begins with this captivating resort design that is modelled on the traditional Balinese village.
The resort’s 35 stately suites are located in the upper reaches of the grounds and boast boundless rainforest views. Meanwhile, my Ubud Pool Villa – one of 25 – looks out onto the vivid green shoots of the rice terraces. Lashings of dark timber offet by vibrant indigenous tapestries add a sense of cosiness to the spacious abode, which features a dressing room and an expansive ensuite (including a separate robot toilet) with a striking tub adorned with an intricate weaving; there are also ornate, round his-and-hers wooden basins and an outdoor shower. The separate lounge room is a mini-villa of its own replete with a TV, dining table and chairs – and opens onto the pool terrace where two shaded loungers lie in wait. Luxurious, accommodating and private, it is a lesson in exclusive villa design. And yet even more opulent lodgings are on offer in the form of the Riverfront Pool Villas and twobedroom Reserve Pool Villas.
The jewel in the crown, though, is the three-bedroom Mandapa Pool Villa, where my wellness treatments are held while the spa – which normally hosts a vitality pool, yoga pool and meditation temple – undergoes an expansion and refurbishment. With its 2,000-square-metre footprint and sweeping outdoor entertaining space that includes a gargantuan infinty pool, hot tub and romantic gazebo laden with greenery right at the river’s edge, it’s the ideal place to start to unwind and re-centre.
The long, fi m, flowing movements of my therapist’s hands melt my body and mind during my Blissful Marma Massage, confiming what I had suspected: that Mandapa’s wellness offering – which includes complimentary daily wellness classes as part of its Disconnect to Reconnect program – is something special. Guests can experience the ancient art of vibrational sound therapy with Tibetan bowls to promote healing and relaxation, try vinyasa flow yoga to foster a body-mind connection, or release their inner creative during a mandala art session, inviting mindfulness in the process. Every class (others include aquatic therapy, chakra balancing and quantum healing) has been designed to encourage guests to take a break from the rapid-fie, digitally-driven pressures of daily life in order to reflect and reconnect with the mind, body and spirit.
No Mandapa experience conveys the essence of this ethos more than the exclusive Intuitive Blind Healer session with renowned local Ubud healer Ibu Ketut Mursi, who learned the rare art of identifying energy imbalances from her grandfather. As she and her assistant, Ibu Kis, work on my body through massage and perception, I wonder what they can sense under the surface and whether any truths will come to light. Ibu Ketut reveals this through a translator at the end of the session, mentioning (not for the fist time) my fast-beating heart in times of stress – along with an ability to stay focused on the task at hand despite what’s going on. I receive a lesson (again, not the fist time) on the importance of slowing it down through meditation and stretching exercises, and protecting my energetic field, which is apparently as porous as a sponge. Ibu Ketut quickly dismisses some trivial energy imbalances that were easily cleared, yet visibly lights up when she hears my daughter’s birthdate. “Oh!” she exclaims. “She is very special! Her third eye is wide open!”
At the incredible Mandapa Camp – not your average kids’ club thanks to its masterful bamboo architecture – I watch the very same daughter feed cows until they can physically eat no more; make a bracelet with candy-coloured plastic jewels; and go up-and-down, up-and-down the towering slide on both back and stomach, red in the face from the day’s sultry heat while squealing with whole-hearted glee. The world of slides, books, crayons and hand-crocheted toys – including a monkey that somehow makes it into her suitcase – is her special place at Mandapa. Ours involves less activity but just as much colour – in the form of mixologistcrafted cocktails and painterly, produce-rich dishes at one of the resort’s four impressive restaurants, each with a unique cuisine and mood to match.
OPENING PAGE Sunset at Ambar
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE Pool villa style © Felix Hug; aerial view of Mandapa; Ambar is the ideal perch to watch the day end © Felix Hug
Book the Capil Making experience and learn how to make a traditional Balinese farmer’s hat using coconut leaves called janur, in an exclusive setting overlooking the rice field. For something more active, the Desa Walk takes you to Kedewatan village to explore the desa (village), where you’ll witness local daily routines and learn about the Balinese way of life.
There’s no better place for a sundowner than Ambar Ubud Bar, perched high on a cliff ambar means ‘sky’ in Sanskrit). Thi breathtaking restaurant and bar offers flavourful Japanese fusion fare, handcrafted cocktails and the best sunset view in the house, made all the more memorable by atmospheric live jazz. Sawah Terrace, where breakfast and the Sunday Mandapa Royal Brunch – both exceptional – are served, is an impossibly pretty and peaceful spot embraced by the dense jungle with a vantage point over the surging Ayung, and dishing up authentic Indonesian food.
The Pool Bar offers a laid-back change of scene in the valley overlooking the pool and paddies, with a casual menu of crowd-pleasers that’s on point for breezy, swimwearclad afternoons. Special occasions, meanwhile, call for the romantic, six-course destination degustation nestled into the rice fields at The Gracefield deck. It’s Kubu Restaurant, though, that takes the prize for my most memorable meal at Mandapa. With Balinese chef Eka Sunarya at the helm, our waiter arrives at our table – moodily shrouded in a sculptural, woven hive-like cocoon – to present course after course (10 of them, in fact) of stellar culinary creativity.
The Kubu Experience heroes a foraging-based, zero-waste dining philosophy that honours each ingredient from root to leaf – everything is sourced from within 100 kilometres of Mandapa. This ustainable gastronomic journey includes dishes the likes of plaga royal galia melon (air-dried beef, pickled melon, granita), Tabanan braised beans (fermented, braised, crispy), Bali heritage pig (pork belly, carbonara espuma, pickled onion), Jimbaran lobster (with cauliflower textures) and Java takusen wagyu. Each course comes accompanied with an illustrated note that tells the story of the produce: where it was sourced, how the animal or vegetable was raised and farmed, and why it has earned a place on Kubu’s menu.
“A boutique piggery in the highlands of Bali near Baturiti, which focuses on raising an ancient breed native to Bali, traditionally and free-range, feeding them organically – just as their grandparents did,” reads the card for the melt-in-yourmouth, slow-cooked Bali heritage pig course. This urated and considered dining experience has it all: flavour, surprise, wonder, romance and playfulness – plus, I never knew beans could taste so good.
HOTEL NOTES
Rates at Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve start from around AU$1,650. ritzcarlton.com
ABOVE, FROM TOP
dining
OPPOSITE, FROM TOP Dining among the resort’s rice terraces; each villa comes with a private pool, both © Felix Hug
Mandapa offers bespoke culinary experiences in breathtaking settings chosen to immerse guests in Bali’s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. Select from riverside spots by the Ayung River, overlooking lush rice terraces, or even within a private temple. Th Explorer’s Picnic offers a gourmet picnic-togo featuring fresh local produce.
Both ultra-exclusive and down to Earth, Turtle Island Resort offers a unique and genuine style of Fijian hospitality amid postcard-perfect scenery
Memory bank.” That’s all my husband needs to say in this moment as we float on the still, almost flurescent-blue waters surrounding Nanuya Levu, the blindingly white sand of our empty private beach just metres away. His words echo the sentiments of prior guests to Turtle Island Resort, a private retreat in Fiji’s Yasawa archipelago. Look it up on TripAdvisor, as I did before I left, and you’ll fid a cascade of gushing reviews flooded with emotionally-charged exclamation marks and heartfelt ‘thank yous!’
Emotions burst from the screen as prior guests recount how special, authentic and – for some – transformative their stay on the island was. So much so that if you visit ‘Turtle’ for the fist time, you may well be outnumbered by those returning for a second, third… or incredibly eighth visit, as one of the couples was during our stay. This topical hideaway boasts a loyal clientele the likes of which I’ve never witnessed before.
The almost cult-like following is not the only special thing about Turtle Island. The 200-hectare slip of land welcomes just 14 couples at a time to its powdery shores. Meanwhile, there are 120 staff. It’s adults-only for most of the year: children are only welcome during two pre-determined weeks when a dedicated nanny called a ‘Bure Buddy’ is on-hand for each family, to ensure worn-out mums and dads have the perfect excuse for a child-free holiday. Or at least, that’s the one we used.
Turtle’s beauty, too, is unquestionable, and no doubt the reason it was chosen as the location for both renditions of the 1949 and 1980 Hollywood film The lue Lagoon, the latter starring a doe-eyed, 14-year-old Brooke Shields. The island –with its romantic remoteness, pristine, untouched beaches, and craft-led, vernacular design – feels worlds away from Nadi (the Fijian hub on Viti Levu), and makes its ubiquitous resorts feel almost pedestrian in comparison.
In truth, Turtle Island is not really a resort, if your defintion includes more pools, facilities and restaurants than you can count. At Turtle, the clear, warm sea just steps from your bure is your heated pool; the snorkelling, scuba diving, paddle boarding, handline fishin, reef trolling, horse riding, diving and hiking are the facilities; and numerous private beaches are your destination restaurants – simply tell the staff what you’d like to eat and drink, and where you’d like to do it. Here, what you get is an authentically Fijian experience from start to finish, fom the lush surrounds to the accommodation and unwaveringly friendly hospitality. Unfortunately for the bank account, though, once you experience private island life in Fiji – as you do at Turtle – there is simply no going back. Like its slogan says: “Once visited, never forgotten.” And it makes sure of that from the moment you arrive – by private seaplane, of course.
Touchdown. Doors open… and the cinema (pun intended) of Turtle Island begins. A troop of resort staff erenade us with a welcome song from the shore, voices booming, hands clapping, guitars strumming and, immediately in front of me, two Fijian men waiting. Waiting, it seems, for me to step into their arms and be carried across the aquamarine threshold ashore, their sulus flutering in the breeze. The experience has me selfconscious and giggling like a schoolgirl, so it’s a good thing I’m handed a glass of champagne the moment my feet touch the beach. A flury of introductions ensue as we are hugged by every member of the staff, each chorusing, “Welcome home!”
More than 500,000 trees have been planted on Turtle Island, creating lush rainforests and stabilising hillsides, while mangroves have also been preserved to protect reefs, and wetlands nurtured to support indigenous birdlife. The island boasts a two-hectare vegetable garden with hydroponics and an orchard with lemon, guava, papaya, watermelon, passion fruit and other trees, supplying fresh produce year-round. And then there are the 500 chickens laying a combined 400 eggs per day, a desalination plant and rainwater tanks.
If you think you’ve experienced genuine hospitality, you ain’t seen nothin’ until you experience Turtle Island. The warmth of our Fijian welcome is a big hint at the very particular generosity guests experience throughout their stay. Every couple has the assistance of a dedicated ‘Bure Mama’ while on Turtle, and ours truly looks after us like a mother hen, catering to our every whim in a manner that feels naturally caring rather than obligatory or dutiful – frequent hugs and all (sidenote: everyone is a hugger at Turtle). The staff – ho mostly hail from the surrounding villages – address us by name, and when we are in a group, refer to us as ‘family’ (“Ok, family? Any questions, family?”). This dea of guests and staff being an interconnected unit is all-pervading, and by far the most distinctive thing about a stay at Turtle Island, spectacular scenery aside.
The charmingly rustic, open-air dining room on the beach welcomes bare feet, sandy hair and plenty of conversation thanks to its sole communal table. Lunch and dinner is from a rotating set menu with a handful of options to choose from (although one guest tells me you can really order whatever you like). And the focus is on simple, fresh sea- and farmto-table dishes. Think ellowfin tua, crab and Pacific green lobster caught daily by local fisermen from nearby villages; Australian beef; and fruits and vegetables grown in the very impressive island garden. The idea of the communal table is for the small number of guests to break bread and get to know each other, and according to the autobiography of Turtle Island founder, the late Richard Evanson, many lifelong friendships have begun at Turtle in this way.
Socialising is at the heart of the Turtle Island experience, and guests are encouraged to participate in group activities such as karaoke, sunset cruises, traditional Fijian ceremonies, dance parties and visits to the local village. After dinner each night you can choose to partake in a kava ceremony, joining staff around a coconut bowl for storytelling and songs. Or, simply retire to your beachfront bure – replete with artisan-crafted furnishings from driftwood and vaulted ceilings woven from palms – to listen to the sound of the ocean.
Less optional is introducing yourself to the group on your fist evening at pre-dinner drinks, saying a few words about your Turtle experience on your fial night – and doing so again to the entire staff duing their morning meeting on the day of your departure. All of this combined can feel a bit like social pressure. For most, it’s what makes Turtle their favourite resort in the world, and a place they return to time and time again. As one Texan guest told me on his last night: “You can’t describe it in words, because it’s a feeling.”
OPPOSITE A traditional Turtle Island kava ceremony is a highlight © Island Encounters Photography
It’s clear that many of the guests – older than us by a few decades, although there are a few couples in their 30s and early 40s, including one on their honeymoon – love the social aspect the communal dining and group activities foster. We, too, enjoy getting to know the other couples, but as very busy working parents to a young child, our desire to rest trumps our desire to socialise and it’s not long before I’m asking our Mama if we can enjoy a private breakfast on the beach in front of our bure, where we have our own hammock, loungers and table. For us, picture-perfect opportunities to retreat into rare peace and quiet are too compelling to pass by.
Barefoot breakfast is not the only, or the best, private dining we do, however. One of my favourite things about the resort is its private beach picnic offering, where couples are whisked away to one of the island’s 12 gorgeous secluded beaches every other day (or every day, if you’re lucky). As we approach the sandy turn-off o our dedicated crescent of sand on our second day, our driver, who has been singing joyfully throughout the short drive, brings the buggy to a halt at a tree bearing two hand-etched signs: ‘Rachel’s Beach’ and ‘Vacant’. He flips te latter over to display ‘Occupied’, and I am filed with childlike delight at this small yet meaningful act that clearly tells us: This lace is yours to enjoy. No-one will disturb you today. Then, there is nothing to do but enjoy the freshly made lunch set out in our shady beachfront gazebo, pop a bottle of champagne and lean into the simple art of doing nothing –under the Fijian sun.
Packages at Turtle Island start from US$2,550 (around AU$4,080) per night for a minimum five nights and include a spaciou beachfront villa, a dedicated ‘Bure Mama’, daily meals (including private dining experiences), all beverages including alcohol, all daily activities, two complimentary half-hour massages and daily laundry. Island transfers are not included. Turtle Island is an adults-only resort, offering family time twice a year in June an December. turtlefiji.com
The late American entrepreneur Richard Evanson purchased Turtle Island – initially a barren, uninhabited drop of land – in 1972. Arriving with little more than a generator, refrigerator and tent, he made it his life work to rejuvenate the land, which had been completely overrun by wild goats, and build himself a new home. He opened the island to public guests in 1980, deliberately keeping the number of visitors to a minimum to preserve the island.
From its tropical sunken garden to its swimming pool in the sky, The Singapore EDITION’s standout design offers a unique and multilayered experience in the Lion City
Given my disorientating late-night arrival, I could be forgiven for thinking that my morning laps were, in fact, taking place in the iconic pool atop Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands. Firstly, there’s a distinct sense of swimming in the sky, suspended many floors above the lush greenery below – not to mention the unnervingly large oculus on the pool floor. But, more on that later. Secondly, there’s an uncanny feeling that all the materials are familiar – that I’ve seen their distinctive structure and finish elewhere. These feelings aren’t misplaced, however, because The Singapore EDITION has in fact been designed by the same fim responsible for the famous Marina Bay Sands complex, Safdie Architects… with some help by local fim DP Architects and interiors by Cap Atelier.
This is a otel with many faces. Singapore itself always seems to me a city of somewhat bewildering extremes: One moment I’m racing in a taxi from the airport along anonymous highways lined by indistinct high-rise buildings; the next I’m arriving in a blissfully peaceful hotel lobby where the sheer density and humid intensity of the unique city-state melt away. My experience at The EDITION begins in exactly this fashion.
The lobby gets it just right – large enough to feel generous and uncramped, but not so large as to feel a little lost. It achieves a light atmosphere of refiement thanks to its scale and materiality, with white marble dominating. Meanwhile, a striking yet restrained central stairway acts as a focal point while avoiding an unduly in-your-face presence. In short, it’s impressive without being overstated.
The white spiral staircase connects not upwards, but down to the delights of the garden courtyard level. With its handsculpted quality, singular materiality and varied textural finis (it seems at once gloss and matte), the Venetian plaster also brings to mind Moroccan tadelakt craftsmanship traditions.
ABOVE The hotel’s lobby
LEFT Green spaces abound © Nikolas Koening
OPENING The Singapore EDITION’s sunken garden
Such are the variety of offering at The Singapore EDITION, I never actually make it down said staircase until the end of my second day. Instead, I fid myself rather peacefully ensconced in my decidedly less-is-more abode. The hotel’s 204 rooms maintain the lobby’s white minimalism – a design decision that works extremely well in this exciting, yet often sensorily overwhelming, city. A space of peace, quiet and calm –complete with copious views of the surrounding greenery, both on ground and sky garden levels – is exactly what I need, rather than gimmicky, gaudy or over-stimulating quarters. But then again, Ian Schrager has a knack for being on the bleeding edge of what people want. He proved this back in the late ’70s when he created New York City’s iconic Studio 54 nightclub. And then again in 2013 when he launched the boutique EDITION brand, in partnership with Marriott International.
The colour is to come in other areas of the hotel, each defied (rather deliberately) as its own distinct space and experience. There’s Punch Bar, for example, clad in bold blue, and the lobby bar highlighted in striking pinks. The pièce de résistance in hospitality offerings here, however, is a restaurant that marks Australian chef and seafood guru Josh Nyland’s fist international venture. FYSH features sumptuous furnishings with plenty of green, not to mention timber-lined walls that achieve a certain old-time grandeur – a tapestry painting, Arrival, by British artist Christian Furr holds a defining resence.
For context, that suspended swimming pool in the sky helps for getting your bearings – it’s located by the quieter end of Orchard Road, a major high-end retail precinct. Walking its length – whether outside on the street or indoors via labyrinthine shopping mall pathways – can be a dizzying, tiring experience, rendering the hotel’s green, peaceful and minimal ambiance all the more valuable.
As with almost any corner of Singapore, the architecture is a heady mix of different typologies; the more you learn about the dense layers of history accumulated around you at any given moment in this city, the richer your experience of it will be. In this case, the 43-metre pool is able to be suspended so breathtakingly up is because it connects to a neighbouring residential building. Boulevard 88 is a pair of 28-storey apartment towers and, with both hotel and residences designed by Safdie Architects, the pool passes right between them.
The design of the hotel culminates in the extensive sunken garden. It’s hard to overstate the atmospheric effect of having submerged it in this way – it creates something of an otherworldly haven, an oversized courtyard that simply feels a universe away from Orchard Road. It is lush, green and utterly peaceful. Meanwhile, the pool and its large oculus (I was only moderately scared when swimming over it) float directly above like some kind of sci-fi ddition to the scene.
Indeed, The Singapore EDITION captures a good number of the many faces of this city; the only downside is the tough decision of whether to spend your time in the peaceful garden courtyard or the supernatural pool deck, way up in the sky.
HOTEL NOTES
Rooms at The Singapore EDITION start from S$683 (around AU$810) a night. marriott.com
REVIEW BY NATASHA DRAGUN
Few hotels in Austria hold as many stories as Sacher Salzburg, hosting everyone from Emperor Franz Joseph and Queen Elizabeth II to the Beatles and Rolling Stones since it opened its gilded doors on the banks of the Salzach River in 1866. Oh, to know what Keith Richards got up to during his stay.
Step out and the dulcet tones of the Austrian city embrace you in every direction – quite literally. Walk a few minutes along cobbled streets and you’ll fid gaggles congregating outside the birth-home of Mozart, surrounded by the ateliers and cafes he frequented while composing some eight symphonies – today they serve erdbeerschüsserl (a type of sponge cake) and silver-wrapped chocolates adorned with Mozart’s profie. A few more steps and you’re within the glorious, rose-lined Mirabell Gardens, made famous while starring in The ound of Music (yes, Julie Andrews checked in to Hotel Sacher during filmin).
The aroma of mulled wine wafts from centuries-old coffee shops; I hear the clink of padlocks being amorously secured to the Makartsteg footbridge, aka ‘the bridge of love’; and flocks of birds circle around the turreted tops of baroque and medieval buildings, so postcard-perfect they could have fallen from the pages of a fairytale. Indeed, the grande Sacher dame couldn’t be better positioned to take the sensory pulse of Salzburg.
Polished antiques, oil paintings, gilded mirrors, silk carpets, velvet sofas, crystal chandeliers, elaborate orchids, mosaic flooring, sweeping staircases… Hotel Sacher delivers a regal ambiance from the moment you step into the glass-roofed lobby. After being greeted by dapper maroon-and-gold-clad doormen, that is. Yet for all the lavish touches, the property retains a homey feel – something that owners, the Gürtler Winkler family, feel strongly about.
While it has a sister in Vienna, Sacher is not a chain, and nothing here is cookie-cutter. In fact, each of the 111 rooms is totally individual in design, and many of them have been given a recent makeover at the hands of Alexandra Winkler herself, with the help of designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, also behind the Four Seasons Hotel in Paris and St. Regis Rome, among many other upscale properties.
Almost every room in the Hotel Sacher has views over the baroque domes of Salzburg’s Old Town, Salzach River and hilltop Hohensalzburg fortress, and many come with balconies so you can soak up the view. My Signature Suite is a treat, featuring large windows that actually open – rare in the hotel world. I leave them that way my entire stay, loving the sound of people dining at the hotel’s alfresco restaurant below, the ring of bicycle and church bells, the melodic hum of boats on the water.
Alexandra and Pierre-Yves gave my suite an upgrade in 2019, and it’s at once charming and opulent. Textured wallpaper and soft flourishes in celadon green nod to the plane trees lining the river outside, giving the entire space an earthy, comforting ambiance. There’s a fieplace, although today it’s just for decoration; plush sofas and armchairs; and the type of curtains that you need your full body to draw –no bedside ‘close-at-the-touch-of-a-button’. Blissfully, it’s the same story with lights – they are all old-school switches, and I don’t have to call housekeeping to get a tutorial on how to turn them on and off. The marbled bathroom comes replete with heated floors, which you’ll want to sleep on if you visit in winter. But I’m here in autumn, and the only extra warmth I need comes from the sun streaming through those river-facing windows.
Of course, no stay in Hotel Sacher – or Salzburg for that matter – is complete without sampling the original Sachertorte. It’s believed that this dense chocolate treat was imagined by confectionaire Franz Sacher back in 1832, with a special 34-step process that (like Tabasco and KFC’s herbs and spices) remains a secret to this day. Unless you’re in the kitchen. It was made famous at the Hotel Sacher, and you don’t have to queue to get a sample when you check in here – it’s available at the breakfast buffet, alongside honeycomb, piles of buttery pastries, and crepes served with more homemade compotes than I can count. You can also grab a slice of the torte at Café Sacher (it comes at a hefty €20), ideally paired with one of the specialty boozy coffees like the Sacher Colada (cream, brown rum, Sacher liquor, chocolate, coconut syrup). Veal goulash, schnitzel and Austrian trout are additionally on the menu – you can also order these local delicacies at Sacher Grill, which spills out onto the river sidewalk, along with more refied dishes like tr uffled lobster linguine, and cured venison with hazelnuts and turnip. If white asparagus is in season, be sure to order it with lashings of hollandaise. Fine dining is at Zirbelzimmer, replete with wood-panelled walls and ceilings, and hunting trophies – it hasn’t changed in design since it fist opened back in 1866.
While Austria has its fair share of spa hotels where you can ‘take the waters’, Hotel Sacher Salzburg is not one – and it doesn’t claim to be. The property’s makeover added a slick new health club where you can sweat it out in a steam room and Nordic-style sauna. Or, book in for a massage or facial from a limited menu of treatments. But arguably the best way to get your endorphins flowing is by taking advantage of the free hotel bikes, enjoying a ride along the river. Don’t forget to ring your bell when you pass my suite.
The Sacher Sky Suite is newly built on the hotel’s rooftop, and is the largest of its kind in the city. The 138-squaremetre space is a lesson in understated luxury, all taupe, ivory and rose across its bedroom and expansive living area – although you will likely be spending most of your time soaking up views from one of the three outdoor patios.
REVIEW BY KAVITA LALA
Perched on the slopes of Mount Lofty (affectionately known as ‘Koala Mountain’) in the heart of South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, Sequoia Lodge is – quite unbelievably – a mere 20-minute drive from the South Australian capital. The adults-only retreat is part of the 12-hectare Mount Lofty Estate, bordered by Botanic Gardens on one side and unbridled national park on the other.
Mount Lofty Estate is home to South Australia’s two highest-altitude vineyards as well as the ancient underground Mount Lofty springs, and with its multitude of walking paths and hiking trails, it is an ideal base for exploring the scenic natural surrounds. Not to mention the fact that the Adelaide Hills’ 50 cellar doors are at your disposal, including the famous Penfolds. Wine-hopping destinations don’t get much better.
Sequoia Lodge’s striking modern layout pays homage to its historic and natural environment. Each of the 14 suites is masterfully designed, featuring opulent materials and earthy hues that reflect the rich palette of the surrounding landscape. Floor-to-ceiling windows not only invite an abundance of natural light, but also offer expansive views of the valley below, creating a seamless integration with nature. The interiors are adorned with impressive artworks from local artists, alongside fabrics that echo the cultural heritage of the Adelaide Hills, contributing to a sense of place that is both luxurious and comforting.
My Sequoia Suite is a haven of comfort and style, showcasing bespoke furniture and a soothing colour scheme. There’s a sunken lounge featuring a stone-clad fieplace, an east-facing panoramic balcony with an expansive daybed, a king-sized bed oriented to offer valley views, and a ‘moon window’ for stargazing.
In-room technology doesn’t disappoint, with retractable TVs and mood lighting settings – particularly handy while soaking in the luxurious tub. The bathroom features switchglass privacy windows, a rainforest shower and a stonewalled courtyard with a water feature, enhancing the sense of retreat. Amenities on hand include Jurlique products, Hahndorf Soap Factory bath salts, a complimentary minibar stocked with local artisan produce and drinks, and a nightly turn-down service.
Dining at Sequoia extends beyond the exclusive retreat –where you can enjoy everything from breakfast to cocktails and dinner – to the broader Mount Lofty Estate. Here, Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant offers an exceptional menu that highlights the best of South Australia’s produce. There are oysters from Coffinay and wagyu from award-winning Mayura Station; greens are sourced from the fertile Adelaide Hills and fromage from Section28 Artisan Cheeses. The culinary experience is enhanced by stunning views of the Piccadilly Valley and a wine list comprising the fiest selections from nearby vineyards. My advice? Start the evening with sunset cocktails in the Sequoia lounge – an exceptionally peaceful space offering majestic mountain vistas – before heading to Hardy’s for dinner.
The wellness offering at Mount Lofty Estate’s Gatekeeper’s Day Spa has been thoughtfully curated to enhance the natural setting, featuring local botanicals in treatments. Back in Sequoia’s luxurious enclave there are artesian spring-fed pools, reputed for their mineral-rich waters and healing properties. It’s a blissful sanctuary of relaxation. My evening in the bubbling hot pool, steaming gently under the stars while savouring a glass of fie red wine, is undeniably a highlight of my stay at Sequoia Lodge. The experience is made even more indulgent by the attentive staff, who are always ready to provide an exquisite level of service right at the water’s edge, whether it’s to assist in ordering a snack or serving additional drinks. For active guests, there is a fitness centre and a heated outdoor pool on offer.
Sequoia Lodge offers unique inclusive experiences that allow guests to immerse themselves fully in the area. The lodge arranges private wine tastings with top vintners from the region, with sessions including behind-the-scenes access to cellar doors in the Adelaide Hills, each curated exclusively for lodge guests.
Guided nature walks along the Heysen Trail and interactive encounters with the region’s wildlife at Cleland Wildlife Park are just a couple of the activities designed to connect guests with the area’s environmental and historical significance. The lodge’s commitment to conservation and the local economy is also on show in its support of regional artisans and craftsmen, and recently, its own bee farm, where guests can partake in a lesson on beekeeping.
SEQUOIA SUITE
SIZE 75 square metres
PRICE PER NIGHT From AU$1,699 including breakfast and complimentary mini-bar with local artisan produce, beers, soft drinks and juices.
WEBSITE sequoialodge.com.au
The Dolomites region of northern Italy is set to steal the world spotlight over the coming year, thanks to hosting much of the Winter Olympics in early 2026. You’ll be happy to hear it’s already shining brightly thanks to the recent makeover of the Olympic Spa Hotel in Val di Fassa, which now features a sleek new wing of 10 rooms courtesy of acclaimed Italian architectural firm NOA. Given the fragility of this mountain landscape, sustainability was top of mind when it came to design – think a green roof to ensure natural insulation, and structures that meld into the environment, both in materials and form; the freshly minted building is hidden in the nooks of a slope, surrounded by a meadow and with access to the main hotel via an underground passage. The beauty of the Dolomites also stars in private spaces, where you might find suspended alfresco beds for summertime, starry-night snoozing, or a stone fountain from which pure mountain water gushes from a spring 3,500 metres below the surface. A highlight – quite literally – is the retreat’s sauna (pictured here), reachable through the Alpine surrounds via an aerial pathway that at once plays with the profile of the mountains and gives you reason to pause... and exhale. At the end of the walkway? Dive into a wellness world replete with Tibetan bell vibration therapy, massages using flowers foraged from your surrounds, and forest bathing – for total immersion.
olympicspahotel.it
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FLOCKHILL LODGE
TUNDRA TO TABLE WITH QUARK EXPEDITIONS
SENSEI LANAI, A FOUR SEASONS RESORT SANTANI WELLNESS KANDY
TRAVEL WITH AUTHOR ELIZABETH GILBERT
Turning the traditional farm stay on its head, Flockhill masterfully combines luxurious villa accommodation, fine dining and an authentic immersion into a working sheep station in New Zealand’s untamed backcountry
It’s a three-word dish that could convert any anchovy hater: anchovy, toast, lemon – the fourth course in the chef’s table experience at Flockhill’s restaurant, Sugarloaf. It’s so simple, so matter-of-fact, and so mouthwateringly delicious that even my salty-fish-verse dinner companion can’t resist it. The three previous courses, too, had us vigorously nodding at each other with every bite, and by the last mouthful of the 10-course experience we are unanimous: this was one of the best – if not the best – meals we have eaten in the last 12 months.
Transforming humble ingredients into something altogether momentous is head chef Taylor Cullen’s forte. Born in New Zealand, European-trained Cullen has returned to his roots to head up Sugarloaf following a role as head chef at Matt Moran’s Sydney institution, Chiswick, and years working under Australian culinary greats including Ross Lusted and Peter Gilmore.
In his new venture at Flockhill in the Craigieburn Valley in New Zealand’s Southern Alps, he brings a deep commitment to sustainable cooking, spotlighting the best seasonal produce the region has to offer with a menu that is a true reflection of the land on which Sugarloaf resides. “Everything we serve is from our region with little to no exceptions,” Cullen explains. “We want to create a cuisine that champions the heritage of Canterbury farming and puts New Zealand on the food map.”
Most of Sugarloaf’s produce is harvested from the restaurant’s vast gardens, which yield a bounty of more than 30 varieties of fruit – including petite alpine strawberries and zesty gooseberries – along with vegetables, herbs and edible flowers, all carefully tended to by Flockhill’s resident gardener.
To bring out the true essence of each piece of produce on the plate, Cullen and his team – which includes accomplished Kiwi chef Floyd Lyttle as sous chef – cook by open flame, and spend ample time preserving, fermenting and pickling to ensure the garden’s full harvest is used. “We’re in the high country with a short growing season, but we utilise fermentation techniques to extend the life of our produce, with the added benefit of enhanced flavours,” Cullen says. The umami hit delivered by the buckwheat noodle soup with fermented miso chilli – which I order twice during my stay – confims he’s not wrong.
I’m among the fist guests to experience Cullen’s menu on the very day the restaurant opens in December 2024, and as he plates up delicate masterpieces bursting with flavour he tells me about his mission. “Our main goal at Sugarloaf is to show people what is possible when you grow your own food,” Cullen says, adding that the restaurant stays true to its sustainable ethos through “little to no waste, taking from the land in only the quantities that we need, and supporting the farm’s growing biodiversity plan”.
As we chat, we savour dishes like beef tartare with cured egg yolk; blackfoot pāua (a local variety of abalone) with chicken skin; brioche with chicken butter; kingfish ith wasabi and elderflower; and crayfish ith marmalade and finer lime. The chicken skin and butter courses are perfect examples of Cullen’s mastery as a sustainable chef, using as much of the animal and plant as possible. He proves with each and every course that resourceful, sustainable, seasonally responsible cooking can be not only delicious –but utterly refied.
Such elegant food calls for beautiful design, and to that end Sugarloaf is a vast, impressive piece of contemporary architecture that encompasses an open kitchen, dining area, a central reception desk and two lounges. The minimalist stylings and neutral palette are balanced by curvaceous custom furniture wrapped in earthy leather and sumptuous velvets of gold and slate grey, nodding to the New Zealand landscapes outside. A vaulted ceiling with exposed beams of metal and ancient river-rescued mataī wood, timber floors, a grand marble bar with illuminated veins, elegant orb pendant lights, two fieplaces and a dazzling, behemoth copper front door contribute to an ambience that is at once warm and sophisticated.
And yet all of this thoughtful design is merely a supporting act to the real star of the show – a spectacular valley setting that awards guests a boundless mountain panorama no matter where they sit. A table at Sugarloaf also gives you a front-row seat to Flockhill’s other recent triumph – a cluster of brand new villas, nestled into the landscape.
“We want to create a cuisine that champions the heritage of Canterbury farming and puts New Zealand on the food map.”
The seven two-bedroom villas join what has been Flockhill’s sole accommodation offering – the award-winning Homestead – since its debut in 2023. An exclusive-use, ultra-luxury four-bedroom residence with mind-warping views of Lake Pearson, Sugarloaf Mountain, Purple Hill and a patch of the 14,500-hectare working sheep station below, the Homestead comes with a dedicated staff f butlers, chefs and concierge. Unsurprisingly, this exclusivity is matched by an eye-watering price tag very few can afford. Flockhill Lodge’s new villas open it up to a broader luxury clientele – including Australians like me and, no doubt, plenty of other internationals on bucketlist, lodge-hopping adventures around New Zealand.
The villas are designed by the same Christchurch-based architecture fim that conceived Sugarloaf, Hierarchy Group, so I’m not surprised to discover they are gorgeous. Clever features include a central lounge room with a full kitchen connected to two king or twin bedrooms – each with their own signature colour palette. The bedrooms can be booked individually as junior suites or along with the lounge room to make a one- or two-bedroom abode, ideal for romantic escapes or family holidays.
The polished interior is dominated by a neutral yet warm material palette of timber, concrete and steel, with splashes of deep green and rust that reference the alpine scenery. I wouldn’t be in New Zealand – or on a working sheep station, for that matter – without some Kiwi wool in the mix, and in this case, a thick rug underfoot and custom upholstered bedhead contribute to a villa that would feel cosy whether there are fields of wildflowers or a blanket of snow outside.
The north-facing , floor-to-ceiling windows and private outdoor deck off ach room ensure guests never have to rely on memory alone for the view of Purple Hill. And speaking of views, there’s the twinkling variety on offer in the oversized ensuite courtesy of a high-vaulted ceiling with roof skylights, which provide a gateway to the stars from the freestanding bath.
As a 168-year-old working sheep station, Flockhill offers a luxury outback experience like no other in New Zealand – an authentic slice of high country, just a 90-minute drive from Christchurch (or a 20-minute helicopter ride, if you are in a hurry). This is a lace where you can immerse yourself in the ruggedly handsome landscapes of the South Island minus the crowds of Queenstown, and then luxuriate in Michelin-quality dining and plush accommodation at the end of each day.
And you’ll appreciate the counter-balance of that evening peace thanks to a choose-your-own-adventure daytime activity menu that includes rafting, hiking, fishin, caving, guided hikes, biking, kayaking, stand-up paddling, ATV station tours and rock climbing – all inspired by the landscape, the station and its history.
I get a taste of life working on a sheep station with shepherd Thuza and her three dogs on the signature Farm Tour one rainy afternoon, and join experienced equestrian guide Heather on a clear morning for a leisurely horse ride. The landscape is studded with native flora – manuka, kanuka, everlasting daisies, matagouri trees, beech trees and tussocks that stretch for days. There are eye-catching purple and pink lupins shooting out of the Earth in pretty clusters that remind me of the English countryside. But as I breathe in the fresh air and drink up the magnificent terrain of this remote wilderness under the mild summer sun, there is no reason to wish I were anywhere else in the world but Flockhill.”
Rates at Flockhill start from AU$3,250 for a Junior Suite. Rates at the Homestead start from AU$12,625 for exclusive use. flockhillnz.com
TOP, LEFT Plates that are as pretty as they are tasty at Sugarloaf
TOP, RIGHT Lounging in a villa © Lisa Sun Photography
OPPOSITE Flockhill is a working farm, and you can join a guided tour © Stefan Haworth
Free from light pollution, Flockhill Lodge offers a breathtaking view of the Milky Way, Southern Cross and distant galaxies. At the Homestead, relax by the fie pit with a drink, explore the stars through a telescope, and let the night sky ignite your imagination.
In 2002, during a visit to New Zealand’s South Island, the Dalai Lama referred to Castle Hill – a remarkable limestone rock formation not far from Flockhill – as the “spiritual centre of the universe”. This aea, known as Kura Tāwhiti in Māori, has long been considered sacred and holds significant cultural importance.
Fine dining, Inuit-fusion style, is a feast for the senses aboard Quark Expeditions’ flagship, Ultramarine
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A Zodiac expedition past towering icebergs
© Jocelyn Pride
Kasuutta!” we say, raising a funky cocktail made from lemon juice, blueberries, vodka and a secret ingredient that makes it fizz ad turn pink when we add soda water. Loaves of focaccia, and pots of caramelised butter and sea salt with crowberries resting on reindeer antlers are spread across two tables set for 10. The napkin rings are made of seal skin.
Apparently synchronised with nature, the iluliaq (‘iceberg’) course is presented amid a chorus of ‘wows’ while we float past skyscraper-sized icebergs. Draped atop chunks of 10,000+ year-old ice, plump prawns and sweet snow crab nestle between turnip crudités with cream of horseradish and sprinkles of foraged leaves. A small cup of steaming seafood bisque sits beside the dish, to warm our hands and hearts.
A boutique restaurant aboard an expedition ship cruising the Arctic Circle may not be top of mind for an otherworldly foodie experience. But Quark Expeditions’ exclusive Tundra to Table four-course degustation is more than culinary mastery – it’s a cultural journey into the life of the Inuit: past, present and future.
Inuit chefs Miki Siegstad and Peter Berthelsen were inspired to cook by their grandmothers. “Grandparents are very important in our families,” says Siegstad. “It’s how we learn to respect and live in our remote environment.” When Berthelsen was six, he made pancakes for his grandmother and was instantly hooked. “I remember thinking on that day, ‘I will make cooking my future.’”
The duo met at culinary college in Narsaq in southern Greenland when they were 16, and have been cooking together ever since. “When we started, most cafes and restaurants weren’t serving Greenlandic food,” Berthelsen explains. “People were missing it, so we wanted to embrace and support the hunters and fisers by starting pop-up restaurants.” After gaining notoriety throughout the region, in 2021 they were invited by Quark Expeditions to help develop Tundra to Table as an exclusive, intimate dining experience for guests onboard their flagship Polar cruiser, Ultramarine. The 199 passenger, 1A+ ice classrated ship is designed in luxurious fashion with balconied suites, a spa, sauna , fitness centre, plush lounge and dining room, plus two twin-engine helicopters at the ready for flghtseeing and heli-hiking.
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villages in Greenland
© Jocelyn Pride
Quark Expeditions’ exclusive Tundra to Table four-course degustation is more than culinary mastery – it’s a cultural journey into the life of the Inuit: past, present and future.
Served on fragments of ancient rock, the asi (landscape) course is a delicate ceviche of scallops with earthy flavours of sugar-snap peas, rye bread croutons, roasted thyme emulsion and mountain sorrel – it perfectly harmonises with our foray into the wilderness. Renowned for sustainable and authentic tourism, Quark excels in creating experiences that extend beyond the obvious.
During excursions with Siegstad and Berthelsen and other specialist guides, we explore landscapes that appear desolate, yet teem with riches – if you know where to look. We learn how to forage for edibles – mountain sorrel, angelica, fernweed, thyme, bellflowers and Labrador tea. Feel the spray from thundering waterfalls tucked into hidden valleys. And then marvel at the skills of the Inuit who brave the elements of the largest island on the planet to feed their families.
Between courses, our hosts enlighten and inspire with stories from the kitchen and beyond. “Everything you’re eating is organic; nothing here lives in captivity,” Siegstad says. “Even the herbs have a more intense taste because they take so long to grow in the permafrost.”
The pair of chefs describe how they brainstorm ideas together to create dishes that truly showcase the ingredients. “We also want our food to balance in texture, colour, crunch and look beautiful on the plate.”
ABOVE, LEFT The Tundra to Table dining experience
ABOVE, RIGHT Plating up the dessert course © Singh Nicolas
OPPOSITE PAGE Wild Arctic expeditions © Jocelyn Pride
Piniartup nerisai (‘hunters’ meal’) is our main course. “Hunting isn’t just for hunting’s sake – it’s survival,” Siegstad clarifies. “In our culture we respect all living things, whether it’s a small fishor large whale.” As the ‘canary in the coalmine’ of the climate crisis, the Arctic is warming faster than any other part of the world, and food insecurity is a sad reality. Siegstad explains that all ingredients in the Tundra to Table are ethically sourced, and the needs of locals come fist.
We have a choice of confit of muskox or Atlantic cod, both served with baby broccoli, beetroot puree, salt-baked onion, pommes Ejvind with Labrador tea beurre blanc. I’m keen to try muskox, especially after hearing Berthelsen reflect on his fist hunt when he was nine, earlier in the week. “My father said if I got one, I must carry it myself, so I aimed for a calf.”
Weighing up to 400 kilograms, the muskox is one of the only hoofed animals left from the last Ice Age, but on my Quark plate, it tastes far from ‘old’. The meat is dense, cuts like butter and is surprisingly sweet, marrying perfectly with the onion and silky texture of the puree.
GREENLAND’S NATIONAL DISH
Issittumi seqernup tarrikkiartornera (‘Arctic sunset’), is our fial course, and it’s a beauty. “Every family has their own recipe for a kaffemik (‘coffee and cake’),” says Berthelsen. “It’s our tradition.” With conditions good for foraging, the cake of the bitter-sweet ‘herb of angels’ (angelica) with Labrador tea and Greenlandic honey cream is topped with sublime bellflower sorbet made from glacier ice the chefs collected on a Zodiac ride around Cape York on the northwest coast. “Qujanaq (‘thank you’). Qujanaq!” we cry, breaking into thunderous applause and jumping to our feet. “Pilluarit (‘congratulations’) Miki and Peter.” It’s almost midnight. Outside, the icebergs take on hues of blue as streaks of pastel pinks and orange fill te sky and the sun sinks into the horizon. This is tuly a meal for all the senses.
Tundra to Table is exclusive to Quark Expeditions and offered a an added extra onboard Ultramarine on four designated Arctic itineraries each year, ranging from 10 to 17 days. The cost as a supplement is around AU$200 per person. The meal is limited to 20 diners and early bookings are highly recommended. Profit generated from the feast go to support food-focused initiatives in the Arctic.
Rates for the 10-day ‘West Greenland Ice Odyssey’ start from US$5,756 (around AU$9,290). Wi-Fi and alcohol are complimentary on all voyages and each guest receives a signature Quark Expeditions parka to take home. quarkexpeditons.com
Through evidence-based, data-driven programs, Hawaii’s Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort offers a truly premium experience in a crowded wellness market
You’re already on Lana’i; it’d be rude not to sneak a peek at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai. It would also be plain silly. Just 14 clicks from Sensei, this clifftop escape is every bit the tropical paradise your mind’s eye can conjure. Dotted with waterfalls, gardens, streams and ponds –and with two ocean-facing pools and a generous selection of luxe activities (yes please, sunset sail) – opulence meets tranquillity at this dreamy destination.
Ihave it on good authority that I know how to breathe. I have been doing it for the best part of 44 years, after all. But apparently I am not particularly adept at it, which is news to me.
My source is Edwardo Williams, an exercise physiology guide at Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort. I’ve joined Edwardo for a one-on-one session as part of the Hawaiian resort’s Optimal Wellbeing Program (OWP), and we’re examining some of the key data my WHOOP band has collected pre-arrival.
The wearable health tracker, touted as the most advanced on the market, is a new addition to my tech stash. It landed in the mail, courtesy of Sensei, a few weeks ahead of my stay. I set it up, strapped it on and swiftly started ignoring it and its register of personalised stats.
This is a abit of mine. I got an Apple Watch (now long dead) and almost never wore it. I downloaded a meditation app and almost never use it. I found a local yoga studio and almost never attend.
The team at Sensei is all too aware of this trend, which is why the OWP is designed to align intentions with actions. Add the myriad benefits of Sensei’s lush surrounds and thoughtfully curated experiences, and this is a wellness retreat with a genuinely distinctive proposition.
As the name suggests, Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort combines the renowned hospitality of the Four Seasons brand with the wellbeing ethos of Sensei, a company co-founded by tech trailblazer Larry Ellison and renowned cancer researcher Dr David Agus.
The name also points to the adults-only resort’s pristine location, the Hawaiian island of Lana’i. Once entirely a pineapple plantation, the 364-square-kilometre isle, which is 98 per cent owned by Ellison, is now home to Sensei Lanai, as well as Four Seasons Resort Lanai, and Lana’i City, population 3,200.
I arrive at Sensei toward the end of a challenging year, armed with intentions. The fist, though, is to fid coffee. Once caffeinated, I take the time to wander the resort’s Edenic grounds, flanked by undulating mountains and studded with striking artwork, including the monumental Talaia by Spanish sculptor Jaume Plensa.
Standing 14 metres tall, Talaia’s grand presence encourages reflection, her eyes closed in reverie. Sensei guests are invited to do the same in various forms: the yoga pavilion hosts flow, yin, aerial and vinyasa classes, as well as meditation, breathwork and gong sound-bath sessions; the onsen garden features 10 heated soaking tubs, each tucked away amid thick, jungle-green vegetation for ultimate seclusion; and, at the heart of the property, the koi-filed gazing pond is motivation to take it slow.
Talking about reverie. I am lying supine, wrapped in the scent of rose, geranium and sandalwood, prepped for a thermal body massage. Deeep breath. I’m in one of Sensei’s 10 private spa hales, where a thermographic body-mapping machine has just scanned my frame and produced a handy heat map. Susana, my massage practitioner, is on the lookout for red zones, which reveal asymmetries, muscle tightness and pain in the body, and help her provide a more targeted treatment.
My hips, particularly the right, demand attention. Thi problem spot also showed up in an earlier health metrics session with Edwardo. The dots are already starting to connect. Deeep breath
Her magic complete, Susana leaves me on the verge of sleep, cocooned in cosy blankets, and I am tempted to stay right where I am. Deeep breath. Instead, I make the most of the 30 additional minutes, during which the hale’s two alfresco pools – one warm, one cold – outdoor shower, ofuro tub, infrared sauna and steam shower are all mine. Deeeeep breath
Edwardo didn’t tell me I am not a good breather. He is entirely too kind to be so blunt. Rather, he outlined how to better understand what my body has been trying to tell me for years. Spoiler: My sympathetic nervous system is in overdrive. But there is a plot twist, too: as well as being a poor breather, I am also an excellent breather.
My source on this occasion is Lydia Moran, one of Sensei’s mindset guides. With help from a HeartMath monitor, we watch my heart rate depict a beautifully stable rhythm across the span of a fie-minute breathwork exercise.
The topline message is that I need to slow down, but I already knew that. The power of Sensei lies in the guides’ capacity to not just explain the data, but also the specific impact of these numbers on a guest’s day-to-day life. Crucially, they are also armed with expert advice that is simple, accessible and personalised.
The Sensei experience is built on three core principles: move, nourish and rest. Each is connected to and enhanced by the others, helping to create the often-elusive balance many of us so deeply crave.
Sensei itineraries are themselves an exercise in balance. Mine includes one-on-one sessions dedicated to intention setting, mindset, functional movement, fitness and nutrition, working alongside yoga, massage and mountain hikes. Free time is also built in and there is an incredible catalogue of activities available to fill t, if you wish to do so.
I feel nourished even before setting foot in Sensei by Nobu, the resort’s signature restaurant. Night after night, I am utterly spoilt by fresh, clean ingredients and a menu designed by world-renowned Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa.
Balance is a Matsuhisa martini (vodka, sake, ginger and cucumber) with dinner, local line-caught bigeye tuna tataki; balance is a restorative yoga class when I would normally push through that niggle and hit the gym; balance is acknowledging the room for improvement as well as the value of imperfection.
I leave Sensei with a vastly improved sense of balance. And, significantly, with explicit permission to do less, the promise this will deliver more and the science-backed evidence to prove as much.
Deeep breath.
Room-only rates at Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort start from AU$1,755 per night, with a minimum two-night stay. Roundtrip transportation from Honolulu on Lanai Air is included in all bookings with arrivals by 31 December 2025. fourseasons.com
Hawaiian Airlines offers a non-stop service from ydney to Honolulu five times a week. hawaiianairlines.com.au
In the heart of Sri Lanka’s central highlands, surrounded by lush jungle and tea plantations, Santani Wellness Kandy embodies holistic style and ancient wellness wisdom
WORDS BY PAUL EWART
Whether travelling to Santani Wellness Kandy by road, helicopter or seaplane (though we opted for the humble car), all journeys will end with some length of drive in which you gaze in wonder at the densely packed peaks and valleys surrounding the small winding forest roads. They lead to the former Aratenna Tea Estate on which the property is nestled, elevated some 850 metres above sea level and southwest of the expansive Knuckles Forest Reserve in the World Heritage-listed Central Highlands of Sri Lanka. Here, it is easy to forget that there is another world where life’s pressures and mundanities collide – in the supermarket bustle or stuck in the daily commute to work. Even the cultural hub of Kandy – just 30 kilometres away and home to a plethora of museums, some of the country’s fiest local cuisine and the Sri Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic), a temple that houses a tooth said to have belonged to the Buddha – feels a galaxy apart. Within the 47 hectares the resort calls home, the natural world rules. Founder Vickum Nawagamuwage developed the concept for Santani thanks to both childhood memories of hiking and camping in the Sri Lankan wilderness with friends – and a newfound respect for holistic practices such as meditation, yoga and healthy eating that he learned from his wife while navigating the stresses of corporate life. All of this led to a sense that a culture of sustainability begins within. The result is a stunningly beautiful wellness resort comprising 20 chalets, a spa and yoga pavilion, an infinty pool and the striking main pavilion that together snake, flat-roofed and unobtrusive, through the landscape.
On arrival we are driven to the latter in one of the resort’s eco-friendly electric buggies, along a gently undulating track
flanked by tangles of jungle. A concierge indicates to the yoga pavilion and spa, nestled unassumingly into the greenery below; we catch a glimpse of rectilinear structures; flashes of white and reclaimed wood.
The heart of the property, the main pavilion spans two levels and has a strict no-shoes policy, which, we are told, is to allow us to reconnect directly with the Earth’s elements during our journey. It is surprisingly soothing padding across the cool stone floors to a set of low sofas flanking a long wooden coffee table. Floorto-ceiling glass allows this calming, minimalist space to blend seamlessly with the landscape, and beyond it is simply green, green and more green as layers of tree-covered mountains, rice fields and jungle stretch around all sides.
The architects behind the design are Thiara Thanapathy Associates, whose work “embraces beauty, wellbeing and nature”, and the synergy between the structures and the land they have created is undeniable.
The upper level of the pavilion, which houses the main restaurant, gives the impression of some jungle treehouse of Nawagamuwage’s childhood, reimagined as a sleek, modernist haven in which to dine. Light streams in from all sides thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows punctuated by slim pillars of timber, complemented by hardwood floors and simple, elegant wooden chairs upholstered with seats of deep blue.
The natural breeze while we dine is no lucky accident. The entire property is air-conditioning free, allowing Santani to save 70 per cent in energy that would otherwise go on an artificial ventilation system. In fact, the founder’s vision of nourishing a culture of sustainability is brought to life throughout the resort, from those electric buggies (though strolling through
the grounds is such a delight we barely utilise them), to the reclaimed wood and the vast gardens, the majority of which are hydrated using treated recycled water.
The aesthetic and sustainable design principles of the main pavilion are echoed in our mountain view chalet, via yet more grey stone floors that invite bare feet as we step in, and a bedroom furnished in a way that fosters calm and discourages waste: black framed lounge chairs made of upcycled wood and plump square white cushions, a sleek coffee table and a minimalist four-poster bed draped with white mosquito nets, cleverly weighted so they don’t let in any pesky visitors at night. A shelf that runs along the left side of the room is home to crockery and a cafetiere; simple and sufficient.
With our chalet kept cool by a ceiling fan rather than the clunky whir of air-conditioning, we fall asleep and wake to the sounds of the forest, including some of Sri Lanka’s more than 30 endemic birds. A tetrad of neutral blinds are rolled up each morning so we can step out onto the wide balcony and sip coffee in low safari chairs made of recycled teak, all while marvelling at the morning mist rising over the valley beyond.
Though we are here to unwind, our days begin, post-coffee, with a 7am hatha yoga class, where we stretch, pose and chant for 90 minutes in the stone-floored yoga pavilion, completely open to the elements on two sides.
Perpendicular to the yoga pavilion is the entrance to the spa, built over three levels into the hillside – it is simply too tempting not to stroll over post-Savasana. We descend to the level that houses a steam room, glass-walled sauna and a sublimely temperate, tiled thermal salt pool with views of paddy fields. It is the perfect spot to while away an hour with a book before breakfast, the daily four-kilometre morning walk to the nearby Hulu River, or a traditional Ayurvedic treatment in one of the therapy rooms a level below.
The spa’s comprehensive offerings promise to satisfy even the most demanding of wellness connoisseurs, with a long list of both Ayurvedic and western treatments available. Just like in the kitchen, the spa makes use of the land, with various medicinal herbs grown on site. But it is the infinty pool that we fid ourselves returning to, time and again each day. Swimming laps with the mosaic effect of forest-toned tiles beneath, the green hues of the living, breathing jungle all around and the constant chime of cicadas, reinforces what countless studies have indicated: that immersing yourself in nature really does heal.
Since Wi-Fi is only available in our chalet, a digital detox is also gently enforced, though for us, it is wholly welcomed. With Santani’s holistic design – which it calls “architecture of silence” – at play, it doesn’t take long before the mindless scrolling on our smartphones is no longer happening by the pool, as we stroll through the plantation grounds, or over any of the three-course breakfasts, lunches and dinners during our stay.
Inside the heavenly light-filed restaurant, executive chef Indika Bandara leads a kitchen that crafts dishes based on the Ayurvedic philosophy of Rasa Haya, which posits that there are six tastes through which food is categorised and used to create a nutritionally balanced, healthy diet. We quickly discover it also leads to an outstanding dining experience.
One morning, perfectly ripened chunks of fruit including mango, banana, papaya, apple and pineapple arrive on a slender plate, before a bowl of delicious homemade granola then scrambled eggs, mushrooms and spinach. Some ingredients are grown in an on-site greenhouse where beekeepers also nurture fresh Santani honey, while other fruit and vegetables are sourced from the surrounding community.
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The main pool © Santani
Wellness Kandi
ABOVE Chalets invite the outdoors, inside
OPPOSITE Santani’s luxe spa © Brook Sabin
The result is a stunningly beautiful wellness resort comprising 20 chalets, a spa and yoga pavilion, an infinity pool and the striking main pavilion that together snake, flat-roofed and unobtrusive, through the landscape.
Both European and Sri Lankan cuisine is offered for each meal, so we opt for the local breakfast regularly during our stay. Thin fish ad vegetable curries, dahl and gotu kola sambo (a traditional pennywort-and-coconut salad), folded into hoppers: a bowl-shaped Sri Lankan pancake that is quickly devoured. Meals can be tailored to guests’ personal requirements, with a resident Ayurvedic doctor on hand to identify your personal dosha body type, which is then used to create a custom dietary plan.
Sharing the dining space with one other couple – who are taking part in a juice cleanse while we indulge in a mouthwatering seven-course degustation dinner – leads to mixed feelings of both guilt and gratitude. But we reason with ourselves as we take another bite – a stay at Santani is all about balance, after all.
Rates at Santani Wellness Kandy start from US$443 (about AU$715) per night for a Mountain View Chalet on a full-board basis for two adults, including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Santani’s wellness rates start at US$763 (about AU$1,235) per night for a Mountain View Chalet on a full-board basis for two adults, including an Ayurvedic doctor consultation and a daily 90-minute spa treatment. abercrombiekent.com.au santani.com
Travel, romance and retrospective go hand in hand for Elizabeth Gilbert, author of bestselling novel-turned-blockbuster-movie Eat, Pray, Love
What did you learn about the world through travel as a child?
Not much! We didn’t travel very much when I was a child. For one thing, my parents were really frugal. And for another thing, we had a farm, and it’s difficult for farmers to leave their properties behind for any serious amount of time (who will milk the goats, after all?) So when we travelled, it was always to visit family, or perhaps to go to the ocean for one week a year. Both were wildly exciting to me, to be honest. Even as a kid, I found it incredible simply to go to a different place. My mom instilled in me a deep sense of curiosity about the world, and helped me to make journals and scrapbooks about even the simplest of trips. We went to every state park in our region, though, and were constantly hiking and climbing, and visiting historic spots. I guess what I learned is: BE INTERESTED. No matter how humble the place you live or are visiting, fid a way to get interested. There is more to the world than your little farm.
What’s your idea of a perfect holiday?
I love a big house at the beach and all my friends together. I like it when we all gather in one place, and nobody leaves except to get groceries. I love the languidness of day after day at the ocean, dozing in the sun and eating big meals together at night. My other favourite thing is to go somewhere absolutely alone, and just be silent and secretive (meaning: nobody knows where I am) for a long period of time. It could be anywhere. It’s one of my favourite and most relaxing experiences, and I can’t get enough of it.
Tell us about an unforgettable moment you’ve had on your travels?
I was in Luang Prabang, Laos, around 2007 with my then husband, and we ate at a restaurant called 3 Nagas. We had what both of us agreed was the best meal of our lives. As the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia, Laos has a different food culture than its neighbours. We ate venison from the mountains and trout
from the river – both of which were spiced with flavours we had never experienced including a fragrant bit of tree-bark in the stew that tasted like peppermint, and was amazing. The iced red-rice wine, the flckering candles, the rain on the verandah, the passing monks in orange robes – it was all exquisitely beautiful.
What are some of your favourite places to travel to?
I love the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica; Mexico City (there is no end to the exploring there); Rome (always Rome!); Big Sur, California; and Byron Bay, Australia. I also have a great love for Amsterdam, Stockholm and Copenhagen, especially in the cold, dark, sparkling winters.
What are key travel items you always pack?
An eye-mask, slippers, my Leuchtturm journals and my little case filed with brightly coloured pens and pencils.
What’s the biggest impact travelling has had on you?
Honestly, travel created me as a writer.
I started travelling alone when I was in my late teens, and I was taking notes the entire time. All those adventures and all the strangers I met along the way became the characters and settings for my work.
I knew that if I wanted to be an author, I had to have exciting places and people to write about. But I had grown up in one of the most homogenous and staid cultures in the world (small town, rural New England). I couldn’t draw enough inspiration from where I was born to support my imagination as a writer. I needed to go out there into the world and roll around in it – and from those experiences, came my entire life.
How did travel and discovery influece your global bestseller Eat,Pray,Love?
I think the more interesting question is, how did Eat, Pray, Love inspire my (and other people’s) travel and discovery?
Countless numbers of people around the world (especially women) drew inspiration from the book to go off ad have their own adventures of solo travel. We even published a book recently called Eat, Pray, Love Made Me Do It, where people told stories of the adventures they’d had because some part of them said, “I want to have that, too!” after reading my book. This fillse with more joy than I can express. To this day, people tell me about doing their own Eat, Pray, Love journeys, and it always excites me. The readers of that book have seen far more of the world than I will ever see, and that feels kind of amazing to me.
How do you think travelling positively impacts creativity?
Travelling opens up creativity because it forces you to get out of what I call ‘commuter mind’ – which is the numb and disconnected mindset that you get into when your days just become a repetition of the same never-changing pattern. You can’t clock out like that, though, when you are exploring a new place. Uncertainty and unfamiliarity make you have to pay attention to your surroundings, make you get out of your comfort zone and make you try new things – and all of that is what creativity is. Travel gives you a brand new mind, and that’s always a good thing.
You’ve just returned to Australia for the fist time since 2020 for your tour. What were you most looking forward to?
I used to visit Australia every year, and I have missed it since Covid! I’ve been looking forward to everything from sitting in a coffee shop in Melbourne reading some book I just bought, to treating myself to a different restaurant every night in Surry Hills, to wandering along the rivers in Adelaide and Brisbane, and taking in the ever-astonishing MoNA in Hobart. But more than all that, I just wanted to hang out with my Aussie friends, whom I hadn’t seen since pre-pandemic days. We had a lot of catching up to do.
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“To move, to breathe, to fly, to float, to gain all while you give, to roam the roads of lands remote, to travel is to live.”
– HANS CHRISTIAN
