I Amsterdam Magazine Summer 2025

Hit musical Hadestown

is taking over

joyous art of Bas Kosters

Around town

The city’s sunniest terraces Gyros and other Greek goodness The scoop on ice cream

HIDDEN GEM IN CITY CENTRE

Discover the Kalverpassage #Fashion #Food #Drinks #View #Art #Parking #Toilets #Open7days

Summer means life outdoors, and Amsterdam has got you covered with an abundance of festivals. Plus: wildflowers and sunny terraces.

08 City of Festivals

WELCOME

Amsterdam’s music festival scene is booming, vibrant and ever-changing. Which festivals came first and what are the trends? And most importantly: Where should you be this summer?

17 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

Find the best (sun-drenched!) terraces, get the scoop on ice cream and find out where the finest Greek restaurants are.

31 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

WFor more information about Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com

Everything you need to add into your calendar for the summer, from colourful art exhibitions and nautical events to outdoor film festivals.

61 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

There’s a new discovery around every corner: find out all about the Amsterdam harbour while our shopping and eating tips will make choosing easy.

77 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Explore beyond the borders of Amsterdam and discover wildflowers in full bloom, artisanal festivals and outdoor summer activities.

93 On the Way Out

MY AMSTERDAM & COLOFON

An artist’s view on Amsterdam, plus the very makers of this magazine send you off with their personal festival tips for the season.

OUT IN THE OPEN

ith an average of 185 days of rain per year, you wouldn’t think that Amsterdam has much of an outdoor culture. But it does. One of the first things you’ll notice is the abundance of outdoor cafés. They fill up at the slightest hint of sunny weather. Because our narrow streets allow each terrace just a couple of hours of sun each day, the clientele shifts around and most Amsterdammers typically know exactly where the sun will be at what time. Our Iamsterdam.com website conveniently lists where to go at what time of the day to get the most sunrays; just type ‘sun around the clock’ in the search field.

Another marvel considering the Amsterdam climate, is the profusion of open-air festivals. With 200+ festivals each year, Amsterdam boasts the most of any European city. Ranging from classical music events such as the Grachtenfestival (15-24 August; see the What’s on section on Iamsterdam.com) to the famous Amsterdam Pride (3 July 3 August) to theatre, film, fashion, art and food festivals, you can find one on almost every week of the year. As a bonus for visitors this summer, a unique and once-in-lifetime festival will take place on 21 June. As part of Amsterdam 750, in which the city celebrates its 750th anniversary, a section of the A10 motorway that surrounds Amsterdam will close off for one day of events, from dance parties and food to theatre, music and sports. Please check our website in advance for information as the city will largely be closed off and (free) tickets may be required. Have a great summer.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

AMSTERDAM

Summer Sound

8 | BY: CHRISTIAAN DE WIT

City of Festivals

Amsterdam’s music festival scene is booming, vibrant and ever-changing. Here’s a deep dive into the city’s festival culture.

Amsterdam’s outdoor parties provide the soundtrack for the summer: not a weekend goes by where you can’t find a music festival, whether it’s techno, house, bass, Latin music or reggae. The Dutch capital is highly associated with partying and festivals, but it hasn’t always been. Just 30 years ago, dance music festivals were few and far between in Amsterdam, attended by an inner circle of ravers, in a time when many people didn’t even consider house and techno to be music and certain conservative religious groups dubbed the music ‘satanic’. Fast-forward to 2025 and there are many festivals to choose from throughout April to September. Tiny as the Netherlands is, our country now boasts more festivals than

anywhere else in the world. Rave culture resonates very well with us Dutch and, back in the 1990s, various groups of ravers also turned out to be excellent entrepreneurs. They set up world-class electronic festival corporations such as ID&T and Q-dance. The festivals they organised turned out to meet a very high demand among the Dutch crowd. We love a good party, and were now able to schedule our well-deserved hedonistic moments into our highly structured lives.

Full-fledged industry

But first, back to the beginning… The first Dutch music festivals found their inspiration in the late 1960s after American examples such as Monterey Pop and Woodstock.

Over the past decades, Amsterdam’s festivals have come to provide the soundtrack for the summer

Summer Sound

Inclusive and exclusive

During the past few years, the concept of clubs as safe spaces has come to prominence in the city’s nightlife. A safe space is a place where anyone can feel free to be whoever they want to be, in particular those who face discrimination in everyday society. ‘Festivals have been doing a great job working with awareness teams, who are always present to prevent harassment issues,’ says Wallagh. Gender-inclusive electronic festival Milkshake comes close to being the ultimate safe space. According to the festival, love, rather than music, is the main ingredient. Milkshake’s focus on diversity, freedom and inclusion, paradoxically also means that it is one of the most exclusive festivals in the city. Anyone displaying signs of ‘sexism, transphobia, homophobia, racism, ableism, fatphobia or any other general hatefulness, will be asked to leave the festival,’ their website reads. However, Milkshake’s excellent reputation was compromised earlier this year, as the festival added allegedly transphobic American rapper Azealia Banks to the lineup. Milkshake cancelled the booking after receiving negative backlash from Amsterdam’s queer community.

Slowly but surely, the new hippie youth culture based on psychedelic music and drugs, colourful clothing and an anti-establishment ideology, found its way to the Netherlands. The first Dutch festival of this kind, Holland Pop, took place in 1970, at Kralingse Bos, on the eastern outskirts of Rotterdam. Amsterdam followed suit with Het Landjuweel, a festival in the squat-

Fast-forward 30

years and there is a festival for every taste in electronic music

ted village of Ruigoord. The festival still exists (don’t miss it when you’re around in August). While modern-day Landjuweel does have its dose of rave culture, Mysteryland – held for the first time in 1993 – was the first one to solely focus on electronic music and its DJ culture. Mysterland and

Milkshake

© EDDO HARTMAN

Amsterdam’s Night Mayor, Freek Wallagh, represents the interests of the city’s nightlife. He is currently battling against the city council’s new policy for hospitality, which includes a ban on dancing in bars.

The best Amsterdam festivals

Whether you love techno, reggae or salsa, there’s a festival on the programme this summer.

LENTEKABINET

Organised by the people behind Dekmantel, Lentekabinet is slightly more casual and accessible than its more experimental bigger brother. With The Blessed Madonna, Gabrielle Kwarteng, Helena Hauff and Job Jobse, among many others.

7 & 8 JUNE, HETKABINETFESTIVAL.NL

DANCE VALLEY

The festival for credible electronic music during the 1990s has gradually become more mainstream over the years, featuring some of EDM’s biggest names such as Martin Garrix, Tiësto and Nervo.

9 AUGUST, DANCEVALLEY.COM

VERKNIPT

Nowhere is Hard Techno – the most popular substyle of electronic music among younger ravers – done better than at the internationally operating Verknipt. Nico Moreno and Lammer play their kickdrums at about 150 beats per minute.

7 & 8 JUNE, VERKNIPT.ORG

LOVELAND

Veteran techno festival Loveland celebrates its 30th anniversary this

year. With six stages along the shores of Sloterplas, getting lost in music is what it’s all about. Amelie Lens, Fjaak, Jeff Mills, Marcel Dettmann, Speedy J and Sven Väth are just some of the names in the lineup.

9 & 10 AUGUST, LOVELAND.NL

REGGAE LAKE

One of the few live music festivals in Amsterdam, Reggae Lake at Zuidoost’s Gaasperpark presents an all-star line-up of acclaimed Jamaican artists, including Shaggy, Burning Spear and Third World.

16 & 17 AUGUST, REGGAELAKE.NL

ZEEZOUT

Operating in the shadow of Dektmantel is a festival that doesn’t take itself too seriously, is less expensive and yet offers a fantastic lineup of underground DJs including Carista, Dee Diggs and I-F.

30 AUGUST, ZEEZOUT.INFO

LATINVILLAGE

A festival that’s heavy on everything Latin: percussion, costumes, dancing (plenty of salsa) and of course… reggaeton. With Idaly, Trafassi and Mpho.Wav.

17 AUGUST, LATINVILLAGE.NL

Dance Valley – another festival that was early to the party – arrived at a time when electronic subgenres weren’t really a thing. Amsterdam-based DJ and producer Steve Rachmad remembers playing the second edition of Dance Valley in 1996: ‘I was playing in a small tent, dedicated to techno, but there was hardly anyone there. People didn’t really know what techno was back then. Everyone just referred to any kind of electronic music as house. Things are obviously very different now, with techno being one the dominant sounds in both the clubs and the festivals.’

Underground becomes mainstream

Fast-forward 30 years and there is a festival in Amsterdam for every taste in electronic music. Over the years, Dance Valley has become a little bit more mainstream, while Amsterdam Music Festival is unapologetically commercial. Loveland finds itself at the more credible side of things and Mysteryland – the biggest

Dekmantel

An internationally renowned underground electronic music festival, Dekmantel hosts a myriad of smaller stages scattered around the leafy Amsterdamse Bos. This is the one festival young bass, house and techno DJs from London and other capital cities around the world would never think to skip. Two days of more experimental and introverted live music shows around the city precede the three-day forest rave the festival is most famous for. Highlights for this year’s edition include Anz & Pearson Sound, Donato Dozzy, Four Tet, Jeff Mills, Satoshi Tomiie, Steve Rachmad, Skee Mask, Upsammy and Valentina Magaletti.

30 JULY-3 AUGUST DEKMANTELFESTIVAL.COM

Martin Garrix

See what he saw Uncover Rembrandt’s art and personal tale

Tickets to your favourite festival all sold out? If you really want to go to a festival, there is usually a way with resell platform Ticketswap.

festival in the metropolitan area – caters to every subgenre of electronic music, including some urban-flavoured styles on the smaller stages. Amsterdam’s festival goers gradually grew more music savvy over the years. We know our stuff now, and festivals followed suit. Dekmantel Festival has explored the niches of club music ever since its first edition in 2013, programming artists that often operate on the crossroads of electronic, jazz and world music. ‘Some more experimental genres of dance music

Cross fertilisation between styles is now common practice

have now found a wider audience,’ says Amsterdam’s official nightlife advocate, Night Mayor Freek Wallagh. ‘Artists haven’t compromised their music, but their sounds have become more mainstream. At the same time, these DJs and producers draw inspiration from sources that used to be blind spots for them. They too, have become more open-minded. Cross fertilisation between styles is now common practice.’

Latin, hip-hop and reggae

But is there nothing else than electronic music that makes our Amsterdam hearts beat faster? Well, yes, and no. The very first Dutch festivals appeared way before DJ culture was even a thing, so their lineups consisted of guitar-based live music. Rock, bands, that sort of thing. And while current Dutch events such as Lowlands, Best Kept Secret, Pinkpop, Zwarte Cross and Down the Rabbit Hole fit within this tradition, they are largely absent in the Amsterdam area. We’re a techno-loving city, it appears. But as house and techno remain dominant here, if you’re a fan of other styles of music you’re now much better catered for than a decade or two ago. The annual LatinVillage and Reggae Lake festivals obviously focus on completely different styles of music as well as a more diverse demographic. You

What’s what in electronic music

House music emerged from Chicago’s black and gay communities in the mid 1980s and was heavily influenced by disco, funk and soul music. Meanwhile, the so-called Belleville Three made the first techno tracks in rival midwest city Detroit. It’s characterised by its use of more complex rhythms, repetitive patterns and a focus on the use of digital technology.

Mellow house was a term invented by Dutch ravers in the early 1990s to describe any electronic music style of around 130 beats per minute.

Ultrafast hardcore or gabber house developed among a working class group of producers in the early 1990s in Rotterdam and bass music is an umbrella term for mostly British electronic music with heavy bass lines and unusual drum patterns. Now you know what you’re talking about.

Amsterdam Open Air

Summer Sound

Mysteryland

The world’s oldest annual dance music festival in the world started back in 1993, in the early days of hardcore. That sound dominated the lineups during the first few years, until it gradually disappeared from the festival altogether. Equipped with an enlarged main stage in 2025, Mysteryland is a place to get lost in different styles of music, including techno, house, trance, hip-hop and hardstyle. With Benny Rodrigues, Cynthia Spiering, Da Tweekaz, DJ Tennis, Eric Prydz, Hardwell, Indira Paganotto, Marlon Hoff stadt, Nayla, Patrick Mason, Philou Louzolo and Skream, among others.

22-24 AUGUST, MYSTERYLAND.NL

Vunzige Deuntjes

A unique festival in Amsterdamse Bos representing the very lively Dutch urban music scene. Dutch-language hip-hop acts dominate the main stage, while one of the smaller stages brings a mix of African club styles, such as amapiano and afrobeats. A second area centres around dancehall and reggae, and a third one on American hip-hop. With Ronnie Flex, Jonna Fraser, DJ Ayane, Delany, Kalibwoy, Kybba and Tribal Kush.

5 JULY, VUNZIGEDEUNTJESFESTIVAL.NL

Zeezout Festival

While events are becoming more expensive, there are still cheaper options around. Take a look at Thuishaven or Der Hintergarten for example, where you can still find full-day parties for under €30.

can find hip-hop, which is very popular now, at Vunzige Deuntjes, a festival known for its mostly local line-ups.

Sky-high prices

Two renowned and respected hip-hop festivals, Appelsap and Encore, decided to retreat from the current scene shortly before the pandemic hit. The reason: rising costs. And they’re not the only ones. While extraordinarily high artist fees in some sections of the market have caused certain festivals to discontinue, events with slightly lower overhead costs are now also facing financial problems. Supplies are getting more expensive due to inflation, but festivals also face additional costs as governments continue to set higher standards for safety and noise levels. ‘The amount of paperwork festivals are faced with is enormous,’ says Wallagh. ‘There are lots of hidden costs that increase the labour intensity of the businesses even further. I’m obviously worried about the effects this will have on the affordability of

Milkshake

An instant hit since its first edition in 2012, gender-inclusive Milkshake Festival in Westerpark is an annual highlight for the local LGBTIQ+ community and anyone else who is party- and open-minded. Milkshake isn’t a queer festival per se: rather, it aims to provide a platform to artists who belong to, or support, underrepresented communities in society. Milkshake is as much a celebration of life as it is a celebration of house, pop, R&B and dancehall. For 2025’s edition, the lineup includes Alice DJ, Bibi Seck, Carlos Valdes, Dee Diggs, Hercules & Love Affair, Horse Meat Disco, Jessie Ware, Marrøn and Ultra Nat. 26 & 27 JULY

MILKSHAKEFESTIVAL.COM

tickets and also about the degree to which festivals can still be catalysts for young artists’ careers. The pressure to focus on wellknown artists increases, as it’s easier to sell tickets with big line-ups.’ In the past years, the number of festivals seemed to increase with every new season, with almost too many to choose from, but with these new challenges, festivals find themselves in a much more competitive market. Whether that’s good or bad news remains to be seen.

A long, hot festival summer

One constant in festival land is that our love for outdoor parties will never die. How important festivals really are in Dutch culture was illustrated last year, when the Rijksmuseum invited photographer Eddo Hartmann to focus on festivals for its annual commission Document Netherlands. In the collection, titled Festival Frenzy, Hartmann managed to capture ravers venturing off by themselves amid a massive crowd. ‘When festivals arrived, they filled a void in the Netherlands,’ says

Hartmann. ‘We never had a very strong national identity, we lost our religion and don’t have a very distinct local cuisine. But this is a trading nation and the average person with a piece of derelict land is keen to make some money out of it. Dutch festivals are very well organised and so are its visitors. This is where the match with Dutch culture comes in: we love scheduling our fun. Going to a festival means you can plan when to have a good time. And as most festivals represent a certain kind of subculture, you can also to a large extent control who you will be partying with.’ So whether you’re an expat, longtime local or visitor for a few days, if you love music, you must experience the Dutch way of daytime raving at least once. Local promoters –faced with strong competition – have their mind set on delivering great experiences: you’ll have great sound quality, state-ofthe-art music, stage and light design, clean toilets (yes!), manageable queues and rendezvous moments with lots of fellow ravers to look forward to.

Het Landjuweel

Amsterdam’s oldest festival finds its inspiration in a 17th-century series of competitions among performance artists across the Netherlands and Belgium. Today, rather than a competitive event, Het Landjuweel, hosted in squatters’ village Ruigoord, is a celebration of poetry, live music and DJ culture, popular among alternative lifestyle communities. Uniquely, Het Landjuweel manages to bring people from almost any age together for a party that starts early on and continues deep into the night. The festival is more about good vibes than it is about the lineup, which isn’t usually announced until near the event’s date.

7-10 AUGUST, RUIGOORD.NL

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Eat & Drink

BY: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

18 Patio Life

22 Greek Cuisine

23 Fine Dining

26 Ice Cream Parlours

27 Dining Out

28 Where Chefs Eat

Knock Knock Bakery

Named after that tell-tale tap on the bottom of a loaf to check if it’s done, this small new artisan bakery in Amsterdam West is where fermentation meets finesse. Partners in both life and pastry, owners Huiya and Jurgen craft and sell small-batch breads and (sweet) treats with bold, unexpected twists – think oude kaas (aged cheese) and kimchi sourdough loaves, spicy croissant pretzels and flower cruffins. VAN HALLSTRAAT 252, @KNOCKKNOCK_BAKERY

Sunny Spots

Zest up your summer drink routine with two new Kombucha flavours: Forest Fruits and Passion Fruit & Mango (€1.65 at all major supermarkets). Batu

DE Bakkerswinkel

Inspired by Amsterdam’s 750th birthday, the fiery Great Fire Swizzle (€16 at SuperLyan) with pear, white chocolate and kimchi yoghurt, pays tribute to the moment in a historic 17th-century house.

NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 3, SUPERLYAN.COM

Patio Life

Whether lush, lively or lakeside, these top terraces serve outdoor air, great food and perfect opportunities for people-watching.

One of the true perks of Northern European summers? The gloriously long days. Around the solstice on 21 June, the sun hangs around for almost 17 hours – plenty of time to soak up the light, the warmth (if we’re lucky) and something cold and bubbly. Amsterdam’s terraces offer a frontrow seat to it all. Some are precisely where you’d expect: De Belhamel sits pretty on the picture-perfect Brouwersgracht canal, Rouhi is a welcome shopper’s pit stop just off the always-busy Spui square, and Café Americain’s patio with its fish fountain beside Leidseplein is a classic. Others are a little more tucked away – perched beside canals, rivers and unexpected stretches of water. Think cafés ’t Smalle, De Kop van Oost, De Sluyswacht, ’t Sluisje, and the lakeside Buiten. Then there are those that feel like proper escapes. Proeflokaal ’t Nieuwe Diep, De Kas, ’t Blauwe Theehuis, Merkelbach and House of Bird are all nestled in parks, perfect for a lazy afternoon. Or you might stumble into a secret courtyard gem – the charming patios of Dignita Hoftuin, De Vergulden Eenhoorn, Lion Noir, Salmuera, Mondi, Pulitzer Garden and De Plantage all offer a serene break from the buzz. Wherever you land, just settle in and soak it up because, in Amsterdam, sunny days are precious and best enjoyed al fresco.

Sunny Spots

Rave-worthy rooftops

In the Western Docklands, REM Rooftop offers picnic tables, finger food and sweeping views of the IJ River from a former pirate radio platform. Across the river, Helling 7 – once a ship slipway –serves up coal-fired dishes on one of the city’s largest rooftops. Nearby, Contrast delivers banging Basque flavours from atop an old Dortmunder ship. Many of Amsterdam’s other rooftops are part of hotels. For fresh Mediterranean fare and views of the Rijksmuseum, head to the revamped The Living Kitchen or one of the mini terraces tucked around Zoku’s rooftop greenhouse. Enjoy cocktails, DJ sets and Rembrandtpark vistas at Floor17, or soak up affordable eats, skyline views and latenight club nights at Canvas on the 7th floor of a former newspaper headquarters. Feeling fancy? Clink glasses poolside, with the Royal Palace as your backdrop, at the glitzy Mr Porter Steakhouse Bar & Lounge

Barbecued Norwegian langoustines in a frothy bisque (€18 each) are one of the standout seasonal specials at Ron Gastrobar

Waterside winners

Beat the heat by taking a dip in the Western Docklands at Vessel (pictured) with cooling breezes courtesy of the IJ River. Alternatively, Bam Boa offers an Iberian beach club vibe with sunny and shady seating overlooking the Amstel River. Locals swim here, too, so it can get busy. A longtime favourite of the city’s beautiful young things, Waterkant (meaning ‘waterside’ in Dutch) is known for its Surinamese food and self-service terrace, which stays sunny far into the evening, weather permitting. You could also try nabbing a canalside seat on the floating terrace of the gram-friendly Café ’t Smalle or grab a leisurely drink straight off the boat while admiring the Oosterdok at laid-back Hannekes Boom before heading to Noord to chill. Trendy Pllek, an urban beach and self-titled ‘largest green restaurant in Amsterdam’, has that slapdash charm that’s become a Noord trademark, plus breathtaking views of the IJ River and city-side. The adjacent cultural café Noorderlicht has a similar feel and an award-winning sustainable menu. Nearby Hangar, with its corrugated steel structure, beach sand and hammocks, is a good choice, too.

The Living Kitchen

Mr Porter

REM Rooftop

Helling 7

Vessel

Vitamin D, guaranteed

Catching some rays is all too easy at Café Soleil, where a Mediterranean-Middle-Eastern menu meets a sun-soaked terrace. For networking, an all-day menu and a terrace bathed in golden light, head to Bar Kantoor at Westergasfabriek. Across town, Café Hesp boasts an authentic brown café interior, a staggering selection of beers, contemporary bar bites and a large terrace on the sunny side of the Amstel River. Or join an arty, alternative crowd at lively Zuidoost spot Oma Ietje. De Vondeltuin, a suntrap at the southern tip of Amsterdam’s most popular park, is a favourite haunt of the pushchair brigade and the perfect place to nurse a rosé while the little ones play. Or climb 120 steps to enjoy views of Oosterdok and the old centre at Nemo Science Museum’s free roof terrace.

Ron Gastrobar

Chef Ron Blaauw famously forfeited his stars in 2013 to create a more relaxed concept – only to win one back. At this must-visit Oud-Zuid stalwart, enjoy top-tier service, a flower-filled terrace, and dishes such as his signature BBQglazed boneless spare ribs.

SOPHIALAAN 55, RONGASTROBAR.NL

Papa Thang

In a residential part of Noord, a street food bistro delivers bold flavours and creative spins on Vietnamese cuisine. Standouts include zamburinas (planchagrilled baby scallops with citrus sauce), warm coconut-banana bread with vanilla ice cream, and lychee martinis.

MELKDISTELSTRAAT 94 PAPATHANG.NL

Ferry

Life’s good aboard this charming century-old former ferry in the Houthavens. Enjoy spectacular views of the IJ River, refreshing cocktails, a well-chosen wine list, and internationally influenced food like octopus with kimchi and black garlic aioli.

HAPARANDADAM 50

FERRY-AMSTERDAM.COM

Nemo

’t Blauwe Theehuis

Top Tips

Grab gyros made with premium pork, creamy tzatziki and pita from a Greek artisan baker at Meat&Greek UTRECHTSESTRAAT 113 MEAT-AND-GREEK.COM

Mediterranean Menus

We’ve rounded up Amsterdam’s best Greek restaurants, from a sizzling gyros spot to trending cafés and a charming island-inspired escape.

Ikaria Park

Tucked away in Bilderdijkpark, this local ‘oat-milk-elite’ favourite channels the island ‘where people forget to die’. Fresh, vibrant dishes pair with Hellenic wines and cocktails. Share crispy courgette fritters, lemony Barbounaki-style red mullet, tzatziki with pillowy pita and meltingly tender lamb ribs as you enjoy this idyllic spot for leisurely dining.

BILDERDIJKPARK 1A

IKARIAPARK.N L

The Greek Embassy

This new all-day brunch and specialty coffee spot is a welcome respite for shoppers from nearby Kalverstraat, who stop by for frappés, kayanas (scrambled eggs in tomato sauce and feta on toast) and decadent deconstructed bougatsa waffles with cinnamon-dusted vanilla cream and phyllo crumble. There’s also a coffee bar and kouzina in Oost and a deli in De Pijp. SPUI 8, THEGREEKEMBASSY.COM

Alpha

For a slice of Greek life and a shardy slab of the best spanakopita (spinach pastry) outside of Athens, head to this new Amstel-adjacent Greek café, which Amsterdam’s Greek immigrant community has quickly embraced. There’s also specialty coffee (Freddos!), Greek mountain tea, and a selection of sweets that changes daily.

AMSTEL 47

INSTAGRAM.COM/ALPHADELI_AMS

Massalia

Judging by its brisk business, the word’s out about Angelo Kremmydas’ excellent resto-bar, named after an Ancient Greek colony (now Marseille). Perhaps that’s because of the delicious cocktails, interesting wines and modern FrancoGreek food. Don’t miss the creamy taramasalata with koulouri bread rings or the oregano-lemon-crusted côte de boeuf.

BEUKENPLEIN 21 RESTOBARMASSALIA.NL

Yucatán-raised Filip Hanlo draws on his Mexican-Dutch roots, French training at Institut Bocuse and experience at revered international restaurants like Noma***, Chez Panisse and Cheval Blanc***.

Fine Dining

Small but Big

At just six seats, Até may be Amsterdam’s tiniest fine dining restaurant – but chef Filip Hanlo’s vision is anything but small.

Once the location of Amsterdam’s first theatre, fine dining now takes centre stage at The Dylan’s hidden chef’s table restaurant. Each course in the nine-course tasting menu (€175) blends the brightness of Yucatán citrus or chilli, the multi-layered umami of Japan and the refinement of French techniques. Chef Hanlo charmingly introduces each dish, sharing how ingredients evolve from one course to the next – say, his signature kombu-jime cured seabass with organic Nac-

carii caviar, fresh bergamot juice and seaweed leche de tigre echoed in a North Sea crab and langoustine salad with pickled bergamot peel. It’s thoughtful, creative and often a bit cheeky: dinner ends with a riff on the restaurant’s namesake Mexican guava paste (até ) and Edam cheese. If you like your fine dining closeup, interactive and full of clever surprises, Até delivers an intimate experience that makes a big impact.

KEIZERSGRACHT 384, ATE-AMSTERDAM.COM

Verity Seward is senior editor at iamsterdam.com, writing about everything from croissants to clubbing. She lives in De Baarsjes and strongly believes that West is Best.

Dam Life

TUgly Delicious

In defence of Dutch food culture: our columnist Verity Seward makes a case for Amsterdam eating rituals – ugly or not.

here’s a common myth – spread even by the Dutch themselves – that the Netherlands doesn’t have a food culture. On the world stage, its culinary reputation dives to the bottom, dismissed as boring, bland and aggressively fried.

When I arrived, the initial evidence I witnessed did little to disprove this.

I’m thinking of the dreaded ‘brown fruit bowl’ of borrel snacks, where the minifrikandelletjes (sad little sausages) look as deflated as the coworkers who swarm around them. Or the fully grown businessman in the office canteen tucking into his daily hagelslag (chocolate sprinkles) on white bread for lunch. But I’ve made it my mission to dig beneath the mustard and mayo sauce pots and uncover the true gems of local cuisine.

I’m not interested in Amsterdam’s small-plate restaurants. We already know they’re great – as they are in Ber-

lin, as they are in London – and frankly, we can’t afford them. No. For me, Amsterdam’s true food culture isn’t found in polished hotspots or algorithm-approved eateries. It resides in the shabby, blink-and-you’ll-miss-them places, where eating rituals have existed in the hearts of Amsterdammers long before TikTok dictated our cravings.

It’s a dad taking his daughter for hot kibbeling (battered fish) at the Dappermarkt every Saturday, hopeful herons circling for scraps. A quick, commutable lunch – a bara gevuld met kip (fried dough stuffed with chicken) grabbed from De Hapjeshoek inside Waterlooplein metro station. Sitting canalside, demolishing a crispy tempeh roti rol (stuffed flatbread) from Rotishop Gieta, an obligatory bakabana (banana fritter) on the side to line your stomach before an early evening gig.

It’s standing outside snackbar De Dijk in the early hours, cradling a broodje

kipkorn (a deep-fried chicken stick with satay sauce and raw onions, stuffed into a bread roll that sticks to the roof of your mouth). The hungry teens at FEBO attempting the legendary diagonaaltje – chomping their way through kroketten (croquettes) and mini burgers from the bottom left to the top right of the automatic snack wall. A slurp of jenever and a boiled egg while propped up at a brown bar. Chatting with your pals, smashing beers and kaasstengels (fried cheese sticks) under a terrace heater in the rain – without getting Tikkied for it. Because here’s the thing: the best of Amsterdam’s culinary scene might not look like much, but it is there. It’s ugly, unpretentious, a little bit shit – but still absolutely delicious. So no, the Netherlands isn’t a culinary wasteland. You just have to know where the real treasures are hiding – and be willing to cherish the little moments in life alongside it.

Top Tips

Before refrigeration, ordinary folk could only find ice cream at confectioners, and Hartog’s Volkoren continues that tradition with its milky chocolate-dipped soft serve.

WIBAUTSTRAAT 77

VOLKORENBROOD.NL

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Best Scoops

With all that delicious dairy on our doorstep, it’s no surprise that Amsterdam has a thriving ice cream scene, where a great cone’s only a short walk away.

Miuz

Treat yourself to authentic gelato in flavours such as apple pie, cappuccino and burrata at this Italian-owned ice cream shop. The ice cream is made from scratch with seasonal ingredients (no prefab powders, colourings, flavourings or fruit pastes) and then slow-churned and stored in circular containers. Tip: you order by the size, not the scoop, here.

OVERTOOM 117/FERDINAND

BOLSTRAAT 4, MIUZ.NL

Monte Pelmo

Simple pleasures never go out of style at this family-run operation in the Jordaan, which has been making quality ice cream since the 1950s. On sunny days, expect to join a cheerful crowd of locals queuing to taste their artisan creations. Flavours such as zesty limoncello, creamy mocha and refreshing blood orange are well worth the wait.

TWEEDE ANJELIERSDWARSSTRAAT 17 MONTEPELMO.NL

Massimo Gelato

Owner Massimo Bertonasco grew up in a latteria, where his family sold dairy and ice cream. With flavours such as ricotta & fig, (vegan) pistachio and stracciatella, he is bringing a taste of the home country to Stadionbuurt, Oost, West, De Pijp and Buitenveldert with his uncle’s recipes, Italian ingredients and artisan techniques.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

MASSIMOGELATO.NL

IJskoud de Beste

On hot days, Northerners flock to this ice cream parlour for homemade scoops in whimsical flavours such as Snickers, Oreo, After Eight and Red Bull before heading to nearby Noorderpark. They also offer sorbet, ice cream cakes and sugar-free options for strawberry and chocolate. Tip: you can now find them in Oost and Nieuw-West, too.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

IJSKOUDDE-BESTE.NL

Born and raised in Amsterdam Noord, chef-owner Sherif Khalil expertly combines his Portuguese-Egyptian heritage and French culinary training at Lazuur.

Dining Out

Fusion Flair

Lazuur is a relaxed neighbourhood restaurant in Noord known for its confident cooking, attentive service and excellent wine list.

There’s Mediterranean warmth throughout the regularly changing menu of Lazuur. There’s a delicate use of spice and acidity that leans into comfort with clarity: signature dish bacalhau com natas (salted cod with cream sauce) for example is given a seasonal twist of summer truffle and bergamot, brightening the richness of the Portuguese classic with citrusy flair. Guests can order à la carte or opt for the chef’s five-course menu (€69). Around 40 wines are available by the glass, including rarities such as a 1950

Madeira and a 1970 vintage port. Aguardente, Portugal’s traditional brandy, is also on offer. Recognised with a Bib Gourmand – Michelin’s distinction for restaurants with an exceptional price-quality ratio – Lazuur balances refinement with approachability. Rooted in the area but looking outward, chef Sherif Khalil and his team blend traditions with a modern sensibility for an unfussy dining experience where the details matter.

PURMERPLEIN 8 RESTAURANTLAZUUR.NL

Tastemakers

Where Amsterdam’s Chefs Eat & Drink

Chefs know where to find the good stuff. Where do they head when they’re craving something special?

ESRA ACAR KOÇ (42), CHEF-OWNER AT TURKISH RESTAURANT BELLY PEPPER

‘I live near [the British restaurant] The Cottage (Linnaeusstraat 88) in Oost, and I love their scones, Scotch eggs and Yorkshire pudding. Rijsel (Marcusstraat 52B) reminds me of Fergus Henderson’s St. John in London, where I interned years ago. For Neapolitan-style sourdough pizza, I like Eatmosfera (Sumatrastraat 47). They work with small farms for their wines and ingredients. I also like [the wine bar and restaurant] Alba (Wibautstraat 105), where I used to work. For nights out, I just discovered the cocktails, fancy snacks and listening room at Cue (Utrechtsestraat 30A). When I miss home, I head to Nefis (Eerste van der Swindenstraat 40E) for the kelle paça (Turkish sheep’s head and trotter soup). I also take my Dutch friends to Esra (C. van Eesterenlaan 35). Selin has long been one of my favourite chefs. I know her from London and have all her cookbooks. So I am really happy that she recently opened her first restaurant in Amsterdam.’

DE CLERCQSTRAAT 128

INSTAGRAM.COM/BELLY.PEPPER

Esra

DENNIS HUWAË (40),

CHEF-OWNER AT MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT

DAALDER AND BISTRO FÉLINE

‘I go to [the Chinese restaurant] Taste of Culture (Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 139) every week. I must be boring because I always order the same thing: kong bo kai ting, a spicy Szechuan chicken dish (I order it extra spicy) with fried rice, Hong Kong beef, bone-in Peking duck and Chinese chives with garlic. I also recently found a great Malaysian restaurant near Nieuwmarkt, Nyonya Malaysia (Kloveniersburgwal 38). We ordered rice sticks (thick noodles), which were delicious, as well as cooked in coconut and pandan leaf) and spicy cucumber.’

POSTJESWEG 1, DAALDERAMSTERDAM.NL

nasi lemak (rice

Treat yourself to freshlymade scones, clotted cream and whisky jam at The Cottage Shop & Deli LINNAEUSSTRAAT 76 THECOTTAGE.AMSTERDAM

SAVANNAH HAGENDIJK (33), HEAD CHEF AT THE PLANT-TO-PLATE RESTAURANT DE KAS

‘I generally prefer more casual places when I go out to eat. Finding the real Thai flavour can be difficult, but Phu Thai (Koningsstraat 25, near Nieuwmarkt) is one of my favourites. It’s not the most cosy place, but that’s always a good sign. The laab (minced pork or chicken salad) and delicious red curry with fried fish keep me going back. For a morning coffee, a tosti, a craft beer on the sunny terrace or after-work drinks, I love all-rounder Festina Lente (Looiersgracht 40B), around the corner from my Jordaan home. It’s charming and the staff are friendly and chill. For good wines by the glass, clams, charcuterie and an easygoing atmosphere, I also like Café Parlotte (Westerstraat 182), even if that’s cliched.’

KAMERLINGH ONNESLAAN 3, RESTAURANTDEKAS.NL

MATT PACE (40), EXECUTIVE CHEF AT CAJUN-CREOLE RESTAURANT ELYSIANNE

‘I go to Salsa Shop (Ferdinand Bolstraat 1) for a double chicken burrito with tangy salsa verde at least once a week. It’s pretty authentic. One of my go-tos alone or with friends is Testamatta restaurantenoteca (Overtoom 125), where they do classic Italian with a subtle twist. I worked with one of the owners and the chef at Domenica. The menu’s always changing, but the last time I went, they had an amazing lobster risotto, and the wine pairings were delicious. I like Vice Versa (Ceintuurbaan 206) for drinks as it’s between the restaurant in Zuid and my home in De Pijp. And for a good cocktail, Bar Mokum (Ferdinand Bolstraat 11). Natural wine bar GlouGlou (Tweede van der Helststraat 3) has my favourite terrace. I’ve made friends with everyone who works there. They have a really good duck rillette and their bread platter is great with a glass of Champagne on a beautiful day.’

RUYSDAELSTRAAT 48, ELYSIANNE.NL

GlouGlou

Festina Lente

@ FESTINA LENTE

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What’s on

Where to go and what to see

BY: PASCALE KAHN

32 Feature: Sail

35 Amsterdam 750

36 Exhibitions

40 Interview: Bas Kosters

46 On Stage

53 Family & Kids

55 On Screen

56 Pop & Rock

57 Classical & Jazz

It’s Amsterdam’s birthday! This label indicates an event is part of the celebrations.

59 Clubbing

Pride

Experience the magic of city-wide parties during Pride Month Amsterdam. This celebration, which marks the city’s reputation as a hub for queer culture, has it’s climax with the famed Canal Parade on Saturday 2 August. Take part in street parties as they crop up on virtually every corner, as well as a host of free organised events including Over the Rainbow, a twoday party at Museumplein, where day one is dedicated to women in all their glorious shapes.

3 JULY-3 AUGUST, PRIDE.AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam 750

32 |

BY: SENAY BOZTAS

Wind in the Sails

From the greenest climate activist vessel to a luxury clipper modelled on the Cutty Sark, more than 800 traditional sailing ships from 24 countries will fill the harbours of Amsterdam during the Sail festival.

While the festival is free, you can also pay for guided boat tours around the vessels, for example at Stromma, which offers packages and special Sail tours.

STROMMA.COM/EN-NL/AMSTERDAM

For a few days in August, the waters of Amsterdam will be flooded with ships and the city turns into a huge nautical festival. This unmissable experience is Sail, which happens once every five years. The free event, which was launched in 1975, celebrates the Netherlands’ rich shipping heritage by inviting hundreds of ‘tall ships’ from around the world to be admired by more than two million visitors.

Birthday year

This year’s sense of anticipation is greater than ever: the last festival should have taken place five years ago but was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Meanwhile, this ‘United by Waves’ edition marks the 750th birthday of Amsterdam, as well as the tenth edition and fifty years of Sail.

‘Sail 2025 is a gathering of ships, crews and visitors on and around the waters of Amsterdam, a place where cultures from all over the world meet in the city’s anniversary year,’ says Sail’s Chris Janssen. ‘For truly unique sights, don’t miss the Sail-In Parade

[where all of the ships sail into the harbour on Wednesday 20 August] and the evening show Waves of Light, every evening from 10.30 pm. But above all, immerse yourself in the breathtaking spectacle: five days of connection on the water and along the quays.’

Nautical spectacle

For professional organisations such as the Port of Amsterdam, which manages the tall ships through the harbour, it is a huge logistical exercise. ‘We are really looking forward to seeing all of these beautiful ships from the whole world,’ says spokeswoman Anja de Kiewit. ‘It will be a huge nautical spectacle and it’s a confirmation that Amsterdam is a seaport with a direct link to the sea, in the heart of the city.’ One person present as the ships sail in will be King Willem-Alexander, aboard the Clipper Stad Amsterdam, a 76-metre-long ship inspired by the 1869 Cutty Sark. Thomas van Es, naval architect at shipbuilder Dykstra Naval Architects, believes the festival is a moment to admire both shipping heritage and modern craftsmanship.

‘Stad Amsterdam is a passenger ship for day trips and is just back from a two-year world trip, Shabab Oman II is a training ship for the navy and civil tasks, and for Greenpeace, we develop ships using as little fossil fuel as possible for research on the water,’ he says. ‘In festivals such as this, you see our love [for the past], but also how good the Netherlands still is when it comes to building ships.’

20-24 AUGUST, IN AND AROUND THE HARBOURS OF AMSTERDAM, SAIL.NL/EN

Sail on Stage

As if seeing hundreds of ships sail into the city isn’t enough, there is more to discover. Sail on Stage hosts four concerts, one every night of the festival. Every night has a different theme, from surprising classical crossovers to electronic dance music. After the concert you can enjoy the evening show Waves of Light. Don’t forget to book your tickets online.

NDSM WHARF, SAIL.NL/EN/SAIL-ON-STAGE

© LISA KUNST

Molen van Sloten -

Molen van Sloten - Amsterdam

Discover old technique in a modern presentation! Daily open!

Experience how the Dutch keep their feet dry!

Akersluis 10 1066 EZ Amsterdam www.molenvansloten.nl

Experience IJmuiden Raw at Sea

Enjoy space and adventure. Go to our wide beaches with plenty of room for wind and water sports. Visit the largest sea lock of the world, country estates, the best dance festivals in the summer or National Park Zuid-Kennemerland with various walking and cycling routes. Or put your towel on the beach and enjoy the sun and the sea. Experience IJmuiden Raw at Sea.

It takes only 35 minutes to get there! Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk station.

More information? Visit ijmuiden.nl/en

Across eight districts and all ages, Let Amsterdam Dance will unite the city in one bold dance performance.  15 JUNE, OPERABALLET.NL

Kwaku

Celebrating the richness and diversity of Zuidoost in Amsterdam, Kwaku Summer Festival is a signature blend of culture, music, food, football and dance. Emerging from the culture of the city’s Afro-Caribbean diaspora, Kwaku is held in Nelson Mandelapark across four weekends. On 20 July, Kwaku goes Pink, and the final weekend closes off with a full stage including Yssi SB, Architrackz and Dior.

12 JULY-3 AUGUST, KWAKUFESTIVAL.NL

Festival on the Ring

On the longest day of 2025, 15 kilometres of the A10 motorway that encircles the city – nicknamed the ‘Ring’ by the Dutch – will be closed to cars and transformed into a day-long festival for locals and visitors. Truly a party for the ages, Festival on the Ring marks the city’s 750th anniversary in grand festive style. From dawn runs to pop-up art, music and dance, the Ring will become a lively place to come together and celebrate Amsterdam’s centuries’-old legacy, as well as its future.

21 JUNE, IAMSTERDAM.COM

FutureFest

This ten-day future festival envisions how our lives will change in the decades to come. What will Amsterdam look like years from now? How will we live, move, eat and create communities in the future? This wide-ranging and imaginative festival includes anything from electric cart races and virtual reality to sustainable fashion shows and plenty of interesting talks and debates. Part celebration, part brainstorm, the ToekomstTiendaagse (FutureFest) hopes to spark your imagination to create a fairer and more livable Amsterdam in the future.

12-21 JUNE, IAMSTERDAM.COM

Exhibitions

Flourish: Kehinde Wiley

Kehinde Wiley’s boldly crafted portraits take to the grand walls of the Museum van Loon for a solo exhibition. Through his art – portraits that place contemporary Black subjects in poses and settings inspired by Old Master paintings –Wiley offers powerful commentary on both the visibility and erasure of Black identity throughout history.

UNTIL 31 AUGUST MUSEUMVANLOON.NL

Travelers

For a moving glimpse at love, memory and mortality, the Travelers exhibition at Museum Tot Zover showcases beautiful post-mortem photographs and includes death portraits from the photo series The Travelers by Elizabeth Heyert. The people portrayed in Heyert’s photographs are dressed in their best party clothes. The party they’re going to? Heaven.

UNTIL 7 SEPTEMBER, TOTZOVER.NL

Choosing Vincent

Telling the story of the Van Gogh family and their dedication to preserving Vincent’s legacy, the exhibition Choosing Vincent: Portrait of a Family History offers an intimate glimpse into the famed family through personal letters, artefacts and artworks. You’ll gain insight into the trials and triumphs of creating the very space you stand in, and the significant art collection it holds.

27 JUNE-31 AUGUST VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL

Between You and Me traces personal stories of the Holocaust from the perspective of a single Dutch family.

UNTIL 24 AUGUST

JCK.NL

Fiona Tan: Monomania

How mental illness was seen, shaped and often distorted throughout history is the focus of Fiona Tan: Monomania, an inventive and exploratory exhibition at the Rijksmuseum. Tan’s own original artworks come together with existing pieces from the museum’s collection to create a rich investigation into the historical development of psychiatry. An introspective visual exhibit, Fiona Tan: Monomania invites you to consider how mental health has been represented – and misrepresented – over the centuries.

4 JULY-SEPTEMBER, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

From Rembrandt to Vermeer

Gain rare access to one of the world’s most impressive private collections of Dutch art at the H’art Museum. The Leiden Collection, assembled by Franco-American collectors Dr. Thomas S. Kaplan and Daphne Recanati Kaplan, is composed of 75 masterpieces, including an astonishing 17 Rembrandts, as well as works by Johannes Vermeer and Frans Hals.

UNTIL 24 AUGUST, HARTMUSEUM.NL

World Press Photo Exhibition 2025

A true highlight for photography enthusiasts, the annual World Press photo exhibition returns to the striking gothic setting of De Nieuwe Kerk on Dam Square. Presenting award-winning photojournalism, the exhibition captures powerful moments from around the globe. Catch this visual narrative of the bygone year’s most pressing geopolitical events as seen through the lens of photojournalists who risked it all to tell their truth.

UNTIL 21 SEPTEMBER, WORLDPRESSPHOTO.ORG

When you see this little card, you get free access with your I amsterdam City Card: iamsterdam.com/citycard

Friede auf Erden

Not only is the historic Willet-Holthuysen House the setting of a new exhibition, but it is also its artistic focal point. Friede auf Erden: Art and War presents new works by artists Sander Breure and Witte van Hulzen that investigate the wartime history of this monumental

building. Utilising video installations, photographs and paintings, the exhibition offers a thoughtful meditation on how themes of peace and conflict intersect in this unique space.

UNTIL 9 NOVEMBER

AMSTERDAMMUSEUM.NL

Download the app for free with no account signup needed, via the Apple and Google Play Store

A Curator in Your Pocket

A free app offers unparalleled access to Amsterdam’s most iconic museums and cultural spaces, with in-depth information and custom introductions. Meet Bloomberg Connects.

An important part of any memorable museum trip is learning as much as you can along the way. With Bloomberg Connects, you’ll be taken on a full 360-degree tour of the museum (or cultural space) you’re visiting. When you arrive at your chosen museum, simply open its page on Bloomberg

Connects to access exclusive content, available in both audio and transcript, and a full guide to the current exhibition. Think of it as a complimentary guide to what the museum offers itself and a way to fully immerse yourself in not just what’s on show but in the making of both exhibitions and the museums themselves.

Get a personal guide

Exhibitions are fascinating, but they can also be overwhelming. That’s why with the app, you can join a customised tour of the exhibition of your choice. You’ll be given a step-by-step audio (and written) guide of the space – voiced by artists and cultural insiders – plus details on each work and a custom map all curated by the museum itself, meaning the information is always trustworthy, expert-driven and up-to date.

Take the tour of the Nieuwe Kerk for example, where you’ll be taken on an audio tour of the angels perched throughout the 600-year-

old church. Accessibility needs are catered for too through voiceovers, captions, audio transcripts or image zoom and font size adjustments, so nobody misses out on the experience.

Explore lesser-known spaces

Museums are often so much more than just exhibitions. Discover the historic heart of every space, like the Amstelhof Garden at H’art or the Portuguese Synagogue, the oldest working Jewish library in the world. It’s a map in your pocket and an app that allows for a virtual tour of spaces you otherwise might miss.

Chaja and her great love Abraham married in 1941. She had sewn her own wedding dress. A year and a half later, they were murdered in Sobibor, solely because they were Jewish. What would you do if your love were forbidden?

The artist’s sculpture of Andries de Graeff from 1661.

A Sculptor of Stories

In the exhibition Artus QuellinusSculptor of Amsterdam, the ‘master of living marble’ takes centre stage.

Artus Quellinus (16091668) was one of the Netherlands’ greatest sculptors. With works carved from marble, wood, terracotta and other mediums, he was a grand master in turning raw material into living stories. His expressive statues were revolutionary in his time, and had a lasting impact on Dutch art. Held from 18 June to 27 October in the official reception palace of King Willem-Alexander, formerly Amsterdam’s city hall, this exhibition invites you to take in the wonders of the 17th century baroque sculptor’s work. As part of Amsterdam’s 750th birthday celebrations,

this retrospective showcases over a hundred masterpieces by Quellinus and his contemporaries. As you wander around the grand halls of the Royal Palace, take in the masterfully crafted sculptures, depicting epic stories from mythology (pay attention to the giant Atlas carrying the celestial globe in the Citizens Hall), religion and history. Highlights include sculptures from the Netherlands and abroad, some of which never or rarely travel, and never-before-shown pieces from private collections. A true master of the arts. A true master of the arts.

18 JUNE-27 OCTOBER, ROYAL PALACE

Interview

BY: LAUREN COMITEAU

Joy to the World

On the eve of his new exhibition, An exercise in joy at Zaandam’s Artzaanstad, former fashion designer turned artist Bas Kosters comes full circle, spinning his search for joy into art.

Once famous as the bad boy of the Dutch fashion scene, today Bas Kosters (48) can be found in his colourful – and yes, joyful – studio on the bustling NDSM wharf putting the fi nal touches on his years-in-themaking Joy exhibition, which includes tapestries, wearable art, paintings and ceramics. His work is often about accessibility – be it letting people rent it from Artzaanstad or designing an affordable pair of knickers for the Dutch budget chain Zeeman. This Robin Hood-like artist sat down with us to talk about fi nding inspiration

in traffic cones and thinking outside the frame.

You created Jobe as the iconic image of your new exhibition. He’s a teddy bear… ‘I created Jobe the Joy Bear, who is gender-fluid, because I really wanted to do something with a teddy bear. It had to do with my ex-partner, who brought me a stuffed polar bear. I’ve always been crazy about toys and dolls and puppets. And it was interesting how we could express our love through the teddy bear, which became a medium for us to connect and play.

And I just became crazy about bears. So I wanted to use the teddy bear as an art subject. I’ve used the craziest subjects in my art, but I had to convince myself with this one. But in the context of joy, you give a bear to somebody you care for. It’s so joyful and so personal. And I wanted to talk about that in my work.’

Why joy?

‘In 2015 and -16, I lost both my parents, and I started living sober. That was a very life-changing moment, very transitional. I had a bit of trouble fi nding my mojo. Living sober I was in a better state, but sometimes I missed the thrill-of-joy experience. It’s not so easy for me to be in the moment. I wanted to be more perceptive of the joy in my life, more thankful for everything I have. So I thought, why not try to see if this is something I can evoke by tackling the subject head on? And I realized joy is something you can evoke, but it’s also something you need to do your best for when it’s not there. I made up the title about exercising joy because I think mental health is also something you can influence. I realized that maybe I was putting more effort into making art than actually putting in the work to fi nd joy. And I portray that in these creations. And there I had an

Catch Bas Kosters’ exhibition An exercise in joy at Artzaanstad, just across the IJ River at Hembrugterrein in Zaandam.

UNTIL 6 JULY, ARTZAANSTAD.NL

‘I love the muchness of Amsterdam, but also the softness’

answer to my question: you can manifest joy, but you must put in the work.’

So joy is serious work?

‘Joy is serious business.’

You had quite some success as a fashion designer. You gave that all up to become an artist. Why?

‘I had the feeling that I could not express my creativity within that medium anymore, although I always took a totally open approach to create beautiful, expressive fashion shows with video art and performance music. When choosing to take this new direction in 2018, I was kind of insecure. People know you as that designer. Is this really gonna work? But I put my foot down and now we are work-

ing on a large retrospective exhibition of my art for next year. So it paid off, and I’m happy and proud I made the choice.’

Do you think art and fashion are the same thing?

‘I think artistic expression is a very major part of fashion, so I think fashion is an art form. But is fashion the same as art? No. I think it’s a nuance. It’s interesting that fashion is an applied art, but there’s also a big focus in the art world on craft. Yet craftsmen are not usually perceived as artists. But before there were ‘artists’, people such as Picasso and Miró made theatre costumes. They made interiors and toys, a lot of applied art forms. Their creativity would run free. It’s such a shame that everything needs to be labelled and boxed. It’s sometimes so limiting. Why are we focused on all these barriers? They didn’t exist before. Sometimes it’s just good to zoom out and let loose a bit.’

Tell me about growing up in the small city of Zutphen. Did you know you wanted to be a fashion designer or artist? Did you fit in?

‘I didn’t really fit in, but I also didn’t really ‘fit out’. I was just that kind of chubby kind of weird guy. Queer, of course. I came out when I was 15. I always had friends, mostly girlfriends. I was bullied a bit, but not much. Sometimes it was difficult, but I never wanted to be like the others. I didn’t want to conform. Around the age of 15, I realised I wanted to go to art school. By 20, I decided to study fashion, but I was also interested in illustration. And I just found my way from there. It wasn’t clear at the time, but I loved art school and I found self-expression so interesting. When I graduated, I also had a performance band.’

THE OUTLET AROUND THE CORNER

In addition to the teddy bear, where else do you get your inspiration from?

‘When I was in art school, I loved to create patterns. I would draw directly on garments, paint fabrics, dye them, make print designs. There’s a clear visual language in all the things I fi nd inspiring, a graphic notion. I love text, so I love advertisements.

But I also love street culture. I love the photo prints of meat on Turkish supermarket windows. I love traffic cones and roadblocks. I love cafeteria shop windows. I love visual imagery, but also visual irritation, like a kind of a disturbance – not disturbance in a bad way, but just something out of the ordinary. Like Amsterdam. I love living here, it’s really the place for me. It’s beautiful, but I get more excited about running into a pile of garbage than looking at a canal house. I like interference in the daily order and that’s what I do with my work. It’s a kind of hiccup, some kind of way to arouse or cause friction. Not negatively, just friction that causes attention.’

You’ve been described as the fashion world’s enfant terrible. Can you still see yourself in that description? ‘In general, my creation is all about love.

Interview

‘Joy is serious business’

And although I might have done really rebellious things, they were always done from a vision of engagement. So even throwing anti-fashion parties, we did it to talk about the narrow-mindedness of the commercial world. We were trying to open a playful space for creation, for music, nightlife, fashion, performance art. This anti-fashion party was just really a kick in the butt of the system.

I loved that people would fi rst come to my fashion show on the opening night of Amsterdam Fashion Week and then later would roll through to our anti-fashion after-party, where we would have nude

favourites…

What do you love most about Amsterdam?

‘I love that it’s a village, but it’s also so exciting and historical. I love the oldness, but also the newness. And I love that Amsterdam is so big and small at the same time. I love the muchness of it, but also the softness.’

And what do you not love so much?

‘Sometimes I think Amsterdam can be inhospitable because it’s so regulated. You cannot just do something, because you’ll get a fine. There’s less spontaneity and less space for the odd ones out.’

Your favourite museum or gallery?

‘The Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. I really love going there – I think they have a great programme. It’s just everything you want from an art experience.’

performers and a runway of garbage bags – crazy things, which were so much fun to do.

I’ve always cherished all the kinds of nicknames they had for me. And I’ve worn them with pride. I’m in a different phase in my life now where I’m much more introspective, but I still enjoy it.’

How would you look back on your career up until now?

‘I’m grateful for all the opportunities I’ve had. I sometimes wish for more international success, because I’m quite well known in the Netherlands with certain generations of people. I just try to be grateful. Anything can happen, right? I’m still young.’

Your favourite nature spot?

‘I love what they did to Westerpark, the nearest park to my house. I sometimes walk there with my boyfriend’s dog. It’s very atmospheric. They have intricate pieces of nature planning, like beautiful trees standing in the water.’

Your favourite café or bar?

‘I really appreciate Saarein, a lesbian bar. I don’t go out much, but if I do, I go there or to the gay bar, Prik.’

If someone was visiting Amsterdam, what’s the one thing you’d do?

‘One of my favourite things is to go to The Antiques Centre on the Elandsgracht. It’s huge! I love it, and I don’t think it’s so common in the Netherlands. You can wander around; they have all these little booths and a beautiful selection of stuff. It’s also a hidden gem because it’s so quiet and so intriguing.’

BY: LESIA JOUKOVA

Way Down Hadestown

New York, London and now Amsterdam: Anaïs Mitchell and Rachel Chavkin’s award-winning musical is coming to Royal Theatre Carré this June.

It’s a story as old as time, but you’ve never heard it told quite like this: the Greek myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, wrapped in a soulful embrace of New Orleans-inspired jazz and American folk music. Enter Hadestown – the globally acclaimed musical and Grammy winner for Best Musical Theater Album. Orpheus – a musician who lost his lover – must descend into the Underworld to earn his chance to bring his beloved Eurydice back, but the industrialist Underworld god Hades would rather test him to the limit

than surrender control over those tied up in his soul-crushing contracts.

A story for the ages

This story of love, loss and bravery in the face of desperation took root in Anaïs Mitchell in 2006, at the beginning of her singer-songwriter career.

‘There’s something about Orpheus as a character that embodies youth; young people coming into the world with their fresh eyes and their belief that things could be different – better,’ says Mitch-

ell. This message is keenly felt throughout the musical, turning a tragic story into a journey full of hope for a better world.

The Great Depression-inspired club-like stage is the perfect backdrop for the story of two starcrossed lovers. As they attempt to make their way in the world through poverty and changing seasons, its commanding forces are locked in their own silent battle. Fear-plagued Hades, married to the wine-loving goddess of spring Persephone, deals with her frequent absences by erecting a

wall around his underground metropolis. Up above, winters grow harsher as Hades clings to what he’s already lost in an attempt to keep threats out.

A Dutch debut

Despite not originally being intended as a direct commentary on our world, Hadestown has only become bigger and more relevant over the years. Now with eight Tony Awards under its belt, the Broadway show made its way to the West End a year ago, and is debuting in Amsterdam this summer. Carré’s theatre is a perfect nod to the show’s origins of Greek tragedy performed in an amphitheatre; ‘a community-gathering space, like storytelling around a tree,’ according to Mitchell. The show is comprised of an entirely new cast from the Netherlands and the United Kingdom. The role of Orpheus is being performed by singer Jeangu Macrooy, last seen as Jesus in the Dutch rock opera production of Jesus Christ Superstar, while Sara Afiba, previously performing in the Dutch musical De Hospita, will take on the role of Eurydice. The musical will be performed in English, with English subtitles available on select performances.

Hailed a ‘gloriously improbable triumph’ by Time Out magazine and ‘big, beautiful and emotionally blasting’ by The Guardian newspaper, Hadestown is one musical you won’t want to miss.

20 JUNE-24 AUGUST, CARRE.NL

On Stage

Julidans

Taking centre stage this summer is Julidans, Amsterdam’s premier contemporary dance festival. With a programme that showcases groundbreaking performances by choreographers from across the globe, Julidans transforms the city into an international hotspot for avant-garde dance, offering audiences an exciting glimpse into the future of movement and expression.

2-13 JULY, JULIDANS.NL

De Parade

Travelling theatre festival De Parade brightens the banks of the Amstel River once again. With its lively atmosphere and mix of performance, music and delicious food trucks, De Parade’s whimsical fairground offers nothing short of a perfect summer evening.

25 JULY-10 AUGUST DEPARADE.NL

Boom Chicago Comedy Festival

Laughs are guaranteed at the fifth edition of the Boom Chicago Comedy Festival – a ten-day celebration of comedy in all its forms. Its star-studded programme includes stand-up, improvisation, sketches and performances. There’s plenty of international talent, but there are also workshops open to all levels, offering you a chance to try it out yourself.

27 JUNE-6 JULY, BOOMCHICAGO.NL

Origin Scapino

Ballet

Catch dance collective Mamm at Vondelpark Open Air Theatre with The Big 30, an acrobatic dance show about saying goodbye to your childhood.

25 JULY, OPENLUCHTTHEATER.NL

Willem II

Summer in the city is synonymous with the Amsterdamse Bos, and it’s here that you’ll find the Bostheater and it’s open-air performances. The big show of the year is Willem II, a royal comedy about mysterious King Willem II (1792-1849). Was he a heroic Waterloo general or a doubting monarch? The flamboyant bon vivant or the political bigot? A hilarious but historical deep dive into the life of what might just be the most fascinating king the Netherlands has ever seen. With English surtitles on Thursdays.

10 JUNE-2 AUGUST, BOSTHEATER.NL

Bringing together traditional folk dance with contemporary movement, Origin is a true dance spectacle. Awarded the world’s biggest dance prize, performers Olivia Court Mesa, Sarah Baltzinger and Isaiah Wilson bring their daring performances to life on the Meervaart stage. Origin, presented by the Scapino Ballet company together with RIDCC and Cinedans, combines cinema and live performance into a wild surreal adventure.

6 JUNE, MEERVAART.NL

Brave

Space: A New Evening of Queer Storytelling

This series of intimate storytelling events at Bellevue Theatre brings together queer storytellers. Helping to make space for inclusive connections and community, Brave Space invites visitors to engage with a programme of diverse voices, covering love, loss, family, friends and all things in between. On 10 July, experience their Queer All Year event, a Bellevue Pride edition, which spotlights plenty of bold and stirring stories.

10 JULY, THEATERBELLEVUE.NL

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Holland Festival

50 | BY: PASCALE KAHN

Big Questions, Bold Performances

Annual performing arts festival Holland Festival has explored life’s big questions for close to 80 years. This year, experience its most expansive and exciting programme yet.

Have you heard of the couple who bought a Rothko painting for a whopping $8.3 million, only to discover it wasn’t by famous abstract expressionist painter Mark Rothko at all, but forged by a mathematics teacher? However sad (or funny), it’s a true story and it was the inspiration for Lukasz Twarkowski’s show Rothko. As part of this year’s Holland Festival programme, Rothko explores what makes art resonate with its audience. And more than simply a struggle between real and fake, it confronts us with art’s ability to touch on something true and enduring in us all.

For curious minds

Rothko is a fitting entry in this year’s edition of the Holland Festival – a sweeping performing arts

festival that’s been a breeding ground for global artists since its postwar beginnings. From its first edition in 1948, when it presented Debussy’s Pelléas et Mélisande in Amsterdam’s Stadsschouwburg theatre, to today, the Holland Festival has evolved into a wide-reaching celebration of performance in all its forms, from theatre, music, dance and opera to film and debate. But Holland Festival isn’t just a festival for insiders or experts. It’s for anyone who’s curious about the world of performing arts. The range of its programme is huge, with plenty to explore – on any given night you might watch a piano concert by a major composer, a talk on the politics of performance, or a contemporary take on opera. What ties it all together is a love of storytelling.

Rothko

At Likeminds in Noord, a special evening with acclaimed jazz pianist Craig Taborn embraces plenty of solo improvisation in this intimate space.

21 JUNE

Challenging expectations

Each year, an associate artist helps guide the festival’s vision and direction. This year, it’s American choreographer Trajal Harrell, who brings his expansive project Welcome to Asbestos Hall to the industrial space of Likeminds in Noord. The title references the original ‘Asbestos Hall’, the studio of Butoh dance pioneer Tatsumi Hijikata. Harrell takes Butoh – a form of dance theatre that emerged in postwar Japan – and blends it with contemporary dance in a studio-like setting. The project includes informal performances and space for real exchange that welcomes questions from you, the audience. ‘The thing I love most is being with the audience,’ says Harrell. ‘That wonderful energy people bring, the anticipation on their faces, I look forward to it every time.’ From artistic forgery to Japanese Butoh and everything in between, this year’s Holland Festival is all about challenging expectations, about breaking boundaries between art forms and between artists and audiences.

It’s safe to say that, whatever you watch, you’re sure to leave with something meaningful – just hopefully not a fake Rothko.

11-29 JUNE, VARIOUS LOCATIONS, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

De seizoenen

Playful, political and deeply human, De seizoenen (The Seasons) is a seven-hour theatrical epic in ITA based on the novels by powerhouse author Ali Smith. Her quartet of novels – each one named for a season – captures the pulse of our times with wit and urgency. With its English surtitles, this immersive reimagining of Smith’s world is made accessible to English-speaking audiences.

27-29 JUNE, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

Boris Godunov

Power, paranoia and ambition take centre stage in Boris Godunov. Directed by Kirill Serebrennikov, who brings a revitalised and modern perspective shaped by his own experiences in Russia, this new take on Modest Moessorgski’s classic opera has an especially timely feel. The soaring musical score is performed by the renowned Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra in Nationale Opera & Ballet.

10-29 JUNE, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

The Anatomy of the Orchestra

12 JUNE, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

The UK-based Paraorchestra makes its Dutch debut with The Anatomy of the Orchestra, a one-of-a-kind concert where the audience shares the stage with the musicians. Wander among the performers as they play works by Rylan Gleave, Pauline Oliveros and Arvo Pärt in a surround-sound experience at The Concertgebouw. A bold rethinking of what an orchestra can be.

Hortus

Open from June 2025, you’ll be able to follow a guided audio-visual tour – a perfect accompaniment to any visit before a coffee at the elegant Orangery café.

Around the World in Three Climates

Journey through three different climate zones in Hortus Botanicus’ newly renovated Climate Greenhouse.

Hortus has long been a staple of Amsterdam’s cultural and environmental scene.

Created in 1638, it originally served as the city’s apothecary for doctors and pharmacists and remains one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. Among its more recent landmarks, the striking greenhouse built in 1993 – home to a lush array of tropical and towering plant species – has finally undergone a much-celebrated renovation.

Three zones

Enter the Climate Greenhouse, which looks to put sustainability first. Entirely gas-free and home to three different climate zones, a walk here is a wander to different parts of the world. Three of the world's most diverse climates are represented, from the humid Tropical greenhouse and arid Desert

greenhouse to the changeable and turbulent Cape greenhouse (which mimics the climate of the South African Cape). The World Zone connects the three climates – a place to show visitors what the factors that drive true biodiversity are and illustrate how the same and different conditions can help a species develop.

Sneak and peek

The layout of the Climate Greenhouse adds to the sense of discovery too. With special crawl and sneak routes – such as sunken paths with underwater views and ones of the underside of a Victoria water lily pad – towering cacti, a treetop castle and a six-metre-high waterfall made of Amsterdam pavement tiles, a walk here is a true journey through some of the world’s most biodiverse climates.

OPEN FROM JUNE, DEHORTUS.NL

With TripLeap, discover an interactive city quest for families, exploring Amsterdam through play and discovery.

TRIP-LEAP.COM

The Nemo roof

NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

Circusbende Festival ,

A haven for your little one’s curiosity, Nemo Science Museum is a perfect family-friendly day out. Alongside its interactive exhibitions, where children can conduct hands-on experiments, the building also includes a rooftop with impressive views of the harbour. After a big renovation last year, the rooftop recently reopened, with a green, sustainable design. With the help of science and technology, it functions as a ‘natural’ ecosystem, with more than 75 di erent types of owers and plants. And as the highest city square in the Netherlands, Nemo’s rooftop o ers summertime bliss for the whole family, including a rooftop festival (12-20 June), a programme of music performances, lm nights and plenty more to explore.

Festival Trek

Fancy a day of live music, interactive performances and plenty of tasty street food in the scenic surrounds of Amstelpark? You can find all this and more at Festival Trek, a family-friendly food festival with a kids zone and plenty of quirky entertainment playing out under the summer sun.

4-6 JULY, FESTIVAL-TREK.NL

The whimsical and wonderful Circusbende transforms Het Groene Veld in Noord and Erasmuspark in West into magical worlds of modern circus arts, with acrobats, musicians and open-air performances. Welcome to the greatest and smallest circus of the world.

14-17 AUGUST & 28-31 AUGUST, CIRCUSBENDE.NL

EXPERIENCE THE NETHERLANDS LIKE NEVER BEFORE AT THIS IS HOLLAND

Soar over iconic landscapes such as tulip fields, canals, and windmills, with breathtaking visuals, lifelike special effects, and an immersive Flight Experience. Perfect for all ages – book now and be amazed!

Escape the heat and crowds of Vondelpark at IDFA Institute’s Het Documentaire Paviljoen inside the park.

IDFA.NL

Movies at H’art

Every August, the green tree-lined courtyard of the H’art Museum transforms into one of the city’s largest, most atmospheric and romantic open-air cinemas. Set beneath a canopy of string lights and surrounded by one of Amsterdam’s most storied buildings, this outdoor cinema curates films destined to cast their own spell of romance over you – if the courtyard setting doesn’t enchant you first.

HARTMUSEUM.NL

On Screen

Films with a View

Outdoor screenings at the city’s most notorious riverside bar return in full force. Films with a View takes place at Pllek every Tuesday throughout the summer. Enjoy some of the funniest, most moving, exciting and controversial flicks with a cocktail in hand and the sand between your toes.  PLLEK.NL/EN/FILMS-WITH-A-VIEW

Sunsets by Eye

Soak up the last rays of the evening sun with a drink and a film at Eye this summer. Theiconic film museum will be putting on open-air screenings along the banks of the IJ River. Last year, the city itself played a central role in all the screened films and while this year’s theme is yet to be confirmed, the views are still set to remain unmissable.

EYEFILM.NL

Pluk de Nacht

As the sun sets, snuggle under a blanket and enjoy a slice of lesser-known cinema. Pluk de Nacht (Seize the Night) brings unreleased films to Amsterdam’s summer nights at Het Stenen Hoofd in West – an idyllic waterside location. Genres range from absurd romcoms, indie and arthouse cinema to haunting horror flicks, documentaries or animation. And many films are plucked from a star crop featured at major international film festivals and are screened in English or subtitled. 21-31 AUGUST, PLUKDENACHT.NL

This two-night open-air cinema festival in Zuidoost features lms connected to the local community. The lms here are screened in the tunnel under the tracks of the Kraaiennest metro station. Bring your own seats or show up early to snag a spot at one of the terraces. 23 & 24 AUGUST, BIJLMERBIOS. COM/OPENLUCHTBIOS

Pop & Rock Robbie Williams

Off the back of his daring biopic Better Man, Robbie Williams embarks on his boldest tour yet and brings his iconic hits to the Johan Cruijff Arena. Blending reimagined classics with plenty of fresh tracks, Williams turns his pop prowess into a spectacle that’s as refreshing as it is sentimental.

22 & 23 JUNE, JOHANCRUYFFARENA.NL

The Maccabees

One of indie rock’s most beloved bands, are making a rare comeback. The band reunites for a special evening at Paradiso, celebrating the legacy of their 2015 album, Marks to Prove It. With their emotionally charged anthems, The Maccabees satisfy a dose of nostalgia for the good old days of indie rock.

26 JUNE, PARADISO.NL

Catch the honeyed sounds of indie Italian musician Anthony Lazaro at ’t Zonnehuis.

18 JULY, ZONNEHUIS.AMSTERDAM

X

With her characteristically theatrical flair and hypnotising synthpop sound, Canadian singersongwriter Allie X never fails to captivate. A forerunner of avant-garde pop, she takes her Girl With No Face tour to the stage of the Melkweg for a show that balances mainstream with experimental.

9 JULY, MELKWEG.NL

Young Franco

Australian producer Young Franco brings his genre-defying blend of disco, hip-hop and house to Bitterzoet, one of Amsterdam’s most intimate venues. Having risen to fame for infectious tracks such as ‘Juice’ and ‘Fallin’ Apart’, Young Franco’s music is all about feel-good hits.

7 JUNE

BITTERZOET.COM

November event Super-Sonic Jazz comes with a new summer festival, Super-Sonic Showcase Fest, dedicated to emerging local talent.

2&3 JULY, SUPERSONICJAZZ.NL

Classical & Jazz

ZomerConcerten

Organised by The Concertgebouw together with the VriendenLoterij, this sweeping programme of more than 80 summertime concerts spans everything from classical masterpieces to jazz improvisations and cinematic scores. Take in operatic classics by Verdi and Puccini, or dive into the world of video game music at The Concertgebouw, which plays host to this unmissable celebration of sound.

1 JULY-31 AUGUST, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

With Amsterdam’s iconic canal belt as its backdrop, the ten-day Grachtenfestival spotlights the best of classical and jazz, performed in extraordinary locations. Listen to a string quartet inside a historic canal house, or groove along to a jazz performance on a pontoon floating over the city’s idyllic canals. As the country’s primary platform for emerging talent in classical and jazz music, the Grachtenfestival does what Amsterdam does best: seamlessly blending tradition with innovation.

15-24 AUGUST, GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL

On the Roof

Every Sunday afternoon, take in music from a mix of cultures on one of the best roof terraces in Noord at HoogtIJ Amsterdam. An oft-forgotten location, their On the Roof summer programming welcomes various artists from across genres, from jazz to classical quartets. Climb up here at sundown for a sultry night of music and an unblemished view of the capital’s skyline.

JUNE-SEPTEMBER, ON-THE-ROOF.COM

© MILAGRO ELSTAK

Hello, I’m A’DAM - a tower of many talents. A place where you can eat, work, rave, sleep. Repeat. 24/7, all under one roof. Ready to discover some of my stories?

A’DAM LOOKOUT | 20th & 21st floor

Looking for the ultimate high? Visit my observation deck on top of the A’DAM Tower and enjoy my unrivaled panoramic view of Amsterdam, from the city center and its canals to the countryside.

‘Over the Edge’ Swing | 21st floor

For the daredevils and thrill seekers among us, I have this famous swing that dangles at 100 meters above the ground. Swing back and forth over the edge of the A’DAM Tower with Amsterdam under your feet!

Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam | 20th floor

During the day, the Panorama Restaurant is part of A’DAM LOOKOUT. But as soon as the sun goes down, the music goes up – and the Panorama Restaurant transforms into Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam: Amsterdam’s highest sky bar for casual dining and the best cocktails in town.

Revolving Restaurant Moon | 19th floor

Making a full rotation per hour, Restaurant Moon provides a truly unique gastronomic experience. Let us take you on a fascinating journey through flavors and aromas combined with a fantastic 360 panorama view of Amsterdam.

Shelter | Basement

My underground nightclub is located in the basement of the A’DAM Tower. Known for its Funktion-One sound system and high-tech LED-panel ceilings. Shelter’s iconic hatch is open every Friday and Saturday night from 23 till 6 am.

A’DAM VR | Basement

Descend into the underground A’DAM VR Game & Race Park and discover a world of boundless imagination filled with the most exclusive thrill-seeking simulation rides, sensational free-roaming shooters and exhilarating escape rooms.

24 hour vertical city

Clubbing

Tropikali turns Amsterdam’s industrial reaches into a colourful backdrop for diverse and exciting music. Here, funk meets Arabic disco and Berlin techno converges with Caribbean bass. Expect plenty of sweaty sun-soaked dancing and an inclusive fun-loving crowd.

28-29 JUNE, TROPIKALI.NL

Club Nights at Lofi

Tucked away inside a former bus garage, music venue Lofi has injected fresh energy into Amsterdam’s nightlife. With its industrial cool and hard-hitting lineups, Lofi is popular with renowned party organisers such as Sona and SlapFunk, and offers a programme that balances evenings of feel-good house with raw techno, afro house and melodic.

LOFI.AMSTERDAM

Find out more about Amsterdam’s festival culture and the best festivals this summer on page 8.

YOUR NIGHT OUT STARTS ON THE CANALS

COCKTAIL CRUISE

UNLIMITED COCKTAILS SERVED WITH DELICIOUS SNACKS

Scan for schedule & tickets

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods City Guide ’s

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

64 Harbour Town 68 Oost 69 Noord 70 West 71 Nieuw-West 73 Centrum 74 Zuid 75 Zuidoost

Marineterrein

Sun-kissed and serene, few places in Amsterdam are as evocative of the city’s summertime as Marineterrein. A swimming spot that offers exceptional views of Nemo, Central Station, and the VOC ship docked outside the National Maritime Museum, it’s a place where Amsterdam’s relationship with the water comes to life. But along the boardwalks and under shaded trees, it’s as much a place for swimming as it is for peoplewatching, where beautiful people converge with beautiful vistas.

WESTERGASFABRIEK

WESTERGASFABRIEK

WESTERKERK

TOWER KERK

KERK

CONCERTGEBOUW STEDELIJK MUSEUM

BUITENVELDERT

GAASPERPLAS

At the Docks

64 | BY: KIM VAN DER MEULEN

Harbour Town

Amsterdam’s harbour may not be Europe’s most famous, but it’s got something special. So what’s its deal – and the appeal?

In 1964 Jacques Brel gushed about the rough life of sailors in Amsterdam in his song ‘Amsterdam’. The chanson became a classic, but the image of Amsterdam as a harbour city didn’t stick. And yet, Amsterdam has one of the largest seaports in Europe. The harbour is as big as 3,000 football fields, provides jobs for around 70,000 people and the port of Amsterdam is the largest hub for cocoa bean imports in the world. Every year, about 63 million tons of goods are transported in and out. What exactly happens in this nautical part of the city, which remains relatively unknown?

Busy and bustling

‘The harbour and Amsterdam are inextricably linked,’ says Carly Misset, a historian and editor of the book De haven van Amsterdam: Zeven eeuwen ontwikkeling (The Harbour of Amsterdam: Seven Centuries of Development). ‘As long as Amsterdam has existed, there has been a port, which originated in the Middle Ages at the Damrak.’ It’s hard to imagine now, but in the 13th century, large ships docked there. ‘There was open water right up to the Dam,’ says Misset.

The harbour expanded rapidly: by 1500, a full quay stretched along the IJ side of the city. ‘Harbour’ now meant ‘Amsterdam’. That changed in the late 19th century, when Central Station was built. ‘The view of the harbour disappeared overnight.’ Amsterdam had the largest port until the second half of the 19th century when Rotterdam took over. That city had a better connection to the land behind – the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal didn’t exist yet – and was therefore better suited for transit. After some time, the Amsterdam harbour faded from view.

Coffee, cocoa and petrol

The port of Amsterdam is known for petrol and cocoa: there are many fuel producers and storage terminals, as well as companies such as Chocolatemakers and Dutch Cacao, which process cocoa beans from Africa and South America into chocolate and cocoa powder. Starbucks even has a large roasting plant in the port – the only one outside the US. ‘All Starbucks coffee consumed in Europe is roasted right here.’

A massive fleet of large ships and various other special vessels sail across the IJ and dock near the city centre during Sail Amsterdam. Read more about this unmissable experience on page 32.

Ship spotting

Although the Western Port Area is not a recreational destination, there are plenty of former nautical spots to experience. In the Eastern Docklands, you’ll find hotspots such as the National Maritime Museum and Pakhuis de Zwijger; in the Westpoort area, there’s the artist village (and former harbour town) Ruigoord; and between the Western Port Area and Halfweg lies the green Geuzenbos. At NDSM Wharf, you can still see (and feel) the harbour vibe and at Pont 13, a bit further along in the Houthavens, you can eat on a converted ferry. But it’s also fun – and relaxing – to watch the passing ships. Harbour Master Milembe Mateyo enjoys doing so at the western end of the North Sea Canal. ‘On the south side of the canal,

there’s a viewpoint near a pumping station,’ he says. ‘If you go a bit uphill there, you get a beautiful view over the water, with tankers and inland vessels.’

Future ready

Each year, over 40,000 inland ships travel through the North Sea Canal and more than 7,000 sea vessels pass through the locks at IJmuiden. Everything continues to sail, even during major events such as Zeehavendagen (Seaport

Don’t miss these...

Scheepvaartmuseum

Days) and Sail Amsterdam. ‘Only during Sail’s parade is the North Sea Canal closed for a few hours.’ The port is always open and always evolving. For example, the city is converting part of the port and industrial area into Haven-Stad: a residential and work district that will take decades to complete. The energy transition is also bringing major changes. ‘On the path to a climate-neutral port by 2050, we are phasing out fossil fuels,’ says Mateyo. ‘This transformation requires major steps.’ With vital functions such as waste incineration, energy production, storage and supply, the Amsterdam harbour will always be an economic engine for the city, says Mateyo. The harbour industry is going full steam ahead.

The National Maritime Museum houses one of the largest maritime collections in the world and includes paintings, ship models, navigation instruments and nautical charts. Discover everything about five centuries of maritime history and how strongly this is connected to the society of today and the future. Don’t forget to visit the Amsterdam, the replica VOC ship moored at the museum’s jetty. HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.NL

Helling 7

Located in a former shipyard canteen in the middle of the old harbour area at NDSM, this restaurant exudes industrial history. Helling 7 has a raw edge, where authentic details merge with a contemporary atmosphere – and with a view to match. The food’s good too, focused on open-fi re cooking and local ingredients. TT. MELISSAWEG 57, HELLING7.NL

Zeehavendagen

At Zeehavendagen (Seaport Days) you’ll get a look behind the scenes of daily business in the harbour area. The programme offers a series of guided tours of shipyards, terminals, cocoa warehouses, factories, museums and other locations. Most activities are free to visit.

13-15 JUNE

ZEEHAVENDAGENAMSTERDAM.NL

Oost

Keti Koti

Thronging markets and laidback eateries, Oost brings the best of every neighbourhood together.

Keti Koti, meaning ‘broken chains’ in Sranantongo – the second most spoken language in Suriname after Dutch –is celebrated on 1 July. It marks the abolition of slavery in Suriname and the Dutch Antilles in 1863, and offers a moment of remembrance. Oost is the day’s epicentre, with the traditional parade starting at Waterlooplein and winding its way to Oosterpark. The National Commemoration of the Abolition of Slavery takes place there, before the festivities continue at Museumplein.

1 JULY, KETIKOTIAMSTERDAM.NL

Diemerpark beach

You’d never guess it from its idyllic surroundings, but Diemerpark was once a rubbish dump. But fret not – the whole area has been meticulously cleaned since, and the water quality is closely monitored. Urban beach Diemerpark has a tranquil atmosphere and is an officially designated swim spot. Spend an afternoon here before a short walk or cycle to IJburg and Brasserie Vrijburcht for drinks by the water.

Ornate and lavish bouquets by Gracia & Graziani are a lovely summer gift for the floral-inclined.

EERSTE OOSTERPARKSTRAAT 73 GRACEANDGRAZIANI.COM

Gollem aan het water

Catch some lingering strays along the canal at taproom Gollem. Perched along the Entrepotdok in a former warehouse, you’ll find craft beers of every kind and strength here. At the mezzanine or terrace outdoors, sip on a golden ale while you watch the boats drift by and listen to the animals in Artis, just across the water. ENTREPOTDOK 64, CAFEGOLLEM.NL

Siyi (24), student INSIDER TIP

‘I love going to Olafbrood for their special sweet latte, and I also just discovered this cute pop-up store: Stormany Vintage, which is only here until July.’

Noord

RUGGED REINVENTION

Industrial and arty, Noord might just be a ferry ride away, but it’s a world of its own.

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Café Soleil

Noorderpark

Sunshine food is in – and for a low-key, relaxed eatery, look no further than Café Soleil. Located in a cavernous building, Café Soleil’s washed orange exterior and expansive terrace make it hard to miss. Its food is equally Vitamin D-fuelled, blending Italian, Portuguese, Greek, Turkish and Lebanese cuisine. Grilled chicken, fish, and octopus fresh off the barbecue, paired with Greek salads and fragrant tagines, combine to create a sunny and delicious effect.

PAPAVERHOEK 31, CAFESOLEILAMSTERDAM.NL

A green space that’s a hub for cultural and family activities, Noorderpark has a bit of everything. Take De (Roze) Tanker, a former petrol station turned into a brightly coloured community centre where you’ll find everything from pop-up cafés to cultural workshops. Head to Sans for French-inspired ambience and seasonal dishes, all while enjoying live music from the surrounding pavilions.

Stretch and Fold rooftop

Summertime is rooftop season, and few places offer as lux-urious an option as Stretch and Fold. A yoga studio slash seasonal café that’s also home to a pop-up restaurant and a sauna, there’s not much you can’t do here. But the rooftop pool is immediately most appealing in the summer, with unblemished views of Noord. Day passes are €7.50, and there’s a good chance you won’t want to leave when the day ends.

PAPAVERHOF 71C, STRETCHANDFOLD.NL

A tribute to the working-class heroes of the district, visit the exhibition Steel Stone Voices at Museum Amsterdam Noord, located in a former bathhouse.

MUSEUMAMSTERDAMNOORD.NL/ STAALSTENENSTEMMEN

‘For a night out, I go to Garage Noord. It’s a really cool place with a Sichuan restaurant during the evenings, and nightclub events after midnight that host niche underground artists.’

Sammie (30), DJ

One of the city’s most international and desirable neighbourhoods, there’s a reason people say West is best.

Sunday Market Westerpark

Shop Amsterdam-style at this Sunday market, where designers, artists and other creatives sell their wares directly to the public. You’ll find stands with housewares, ceramics, fashion, vintage items, jewellery, accessories, illustrations, affordable art and kids’ products. Plus there’s plenty of organic food and drinks available from indoor and outdoor cafés. Apart from shopping and snacking, there’s lots to do for children and adults alike, including creative workshops, live music and picnicking in the park.

FIRST SUNDAY OF THE MONTH, 12-6 PM PAZZANISTRAAT, SUNDAYMARKET.NL

‘I do dog sitting in my neighbourhood and just love going for walks in Westerpark with the dogs. It’s spacious and very green.’

André (67), retired

Sup Sup Club

The canals in Oud-West are some of the most beautiful stretches in the city and are great fun to explore with a stand-up paddleboard (SUP).

Canal Sup provides board rentals for anywhere between one and eight hours, and its location gives you access to scenic routes in the neighbourhood.

CRYNSSENSTRAAT 16, CANALSUP.NL

Find fresh sourdough bread, viennoiserie, seasonal croissants and speciality coffee for takeaway in newly opened outpost Louf Westerpark. DE WITTENKADE 96 BAKKERIJLOUF.NL

Ten Katemarkt

A firm favourite with locals, you’ll find flowers, cheese, wine, fabric, fruit and veg at this bustling street market. There’s also a range of food trucks serving typical Dutch snacks and deep-fried delicacies. If you haven’t yet had the opportunity to sample kibbeling (battered cod bites), loempia (Indonesian spring roll) or a broodje haring (a raw herring sandwich), let the vendors here tempt you.

TEN KATESTRAAT, TENKATEMARKT.NL

Nieuw-West

Boothuis & Phono Lake

Outdoor venues and waterside escapes lend Amsterdam’s greenest neighbourhood heaps of summery charm. PARKS & RECREATION

Life is better down by the water, as Boothuis, an all-day restaurant right on Sloterplas Lake, knows well. Complete with a spacious terrace and unobstructed water views, this is what summer afternoons were made for. Hang around until late on Fridays and Saturdays, and the space transforms into Phono Lake, an alfresco dancefloor that focuses on community, with tunes from some of the best local DJs. Dance into the night; this spot’s a fever dream.

Blauwe Zone Festival

The Blue Zone Festival offers a little bit of everything. It takes place over two days and all over Nieuw-West, and the focus is on art, culture and makers in the area. Try the Open Atelier walk, which lets you peek into some of the local ateliers and cultural institutions on show. As a first point of call, head to the Van Eesteren Museum, which serves as ground zero for the event.

CHRISTOFFEL PLANTIJNGRACHT 4, BOOTHUIS.AMSTERDAM, INSTAGRAM.COM/PHONO.LAKE

Visit the monthly Biologische Markt Belgiëplein for a range of fresh, organic fruit and vegetables at this bustling square.

Tuinen van West

The Gardens of West are often overlooked, but they’re what make the district so green. Spend a day outdoors exploring the fruit gardens before settling down at Het Rijk van de Keizer for a refuel. And if partying is more up your alley, stop by for ZeeZout, one of the city’s boutique festivals.

JORIS VAN DEN BERGHWEG 109, HETRIJKVANDEKEIZER.NL 30 AUGUST, ZEEZOUT.INFO

5-6 JULY

TIP

‘Neighbourhood café De Buurman Farouk is run by this local guy who is super cool. People come here to chat and have good coffee. The sandwiches are great too!’ Aditya (24), consultant

CANAL-CUT CHARM

Centrum

Beyond the lights and the action lies a quieter, cosy centre that never fails to surprise.

Roof of Amsterdam at Nieuwe Kerk

Few people can say they’ve seen Amsterdam from above. But to celebrate Amsterdam’s 750th birthday, comes the Roof of Amsterdam. Built atop the Nieuwe Kerk, which is having its spire restored this year, is a large viewing platform with sweeping views all the way from Noord to Oost. It takes 216 steps to get to the top, which might sound like a lot (it’s not really), but for a bird’s eye view of Amsterdam, it might just be worth it.

UNTIL 2 NOVEMBER, NIEUWEKERK.NL

Find vintage menswear from more than 1,000 brands for the lazy but selective shoppers at KooKoo Vintage. SINT OLOFSSTEEG 8 KOOKOOCLUB.COM

For more information on Amsterdam Centrum check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Ode to One Woman

Head to one of Amsterdam’s most obscure museums for an exhibition in honour of one woman. Taking place at the Amsterdam Pipe Museum – a museum entirely dedicated to smoking pipes, tobacco and all things of that universe – this exhibition explores the mystique of Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, a woman who, against all odds, earned an income back in the 1700s.

UNTIL NOVEMBER, PIPEMUSEUM.NL

Monty’s

This tiny, forest green-coloured gem in the Jordaan has become the spot for sourdough toasties, filled with melty Montgomery cheese. Run by one-time food truck owner George and his partner Cress, Monty’s sandwiches have gone from festival favourites back in the UK to neighbourhood ones in Amsterdam. You’ll find three options here –kimchi, chutney and marmite – and each one is spectacular. EERSTE ANJELIERSDWARSSTRAAT 16 INSTAGRAM.COM/MONTYS_AMSTERDAM

‘Every expat knows catering restaurant Small World and its owner, a fun Australian guy. They make the best sandwiches in Amsterdam.’

A.M. (47), telecommunications sales

amber honey scrub (€79) at French beauty store marocMaroc, in ornate, gold surroundings.

VAN BAERLESTRAAT 38 MAROCMAROC.COM

Tree-lined, plush and palatial, Zuid always knows how to impress.

Artzuid

Ben (19), student INSIDER TIP

‘Despite the busyness, I love going to the Albert Cuyp Market, and talking to the people there. Everyone is friendly and there are always good vibes.’

Schinkelbuurt

Every two years, Amsterdam Sculpture Biennale Artzuid brings the avenues of Amsterdam Zuid to life with works of art that look to captivate and surprise. This year marks a special celebratory edition courtesy of Amsterdam 750 with the theme, ‘ Enlightenment ’. Around 50 artists will take a stab at interpreting that into sculptures from postwar style to the present day. Catch these beauties in the Apollolaan, Minervalaan and Churchilllaan.

UNTIL SEPTEMBER, ARTZUID.NL

Flung to the southwest corner of Zuid is the Schinkelbuurt. You’ll find a mix of young and old in this gorgeous, quiet enclave. Head out for a walk on the boardwalks and greenery of Park Schinkeleilanden, before doing a lap of the Olympic Stadium. Venture up to the old tram station, Haarlemmermeerstation, for a history of tram culture before grabbing a bite at Dignita Vondelpark for lunch or rice table favourite Restaurant Blauw for dinner.

Juno

Few new restaurants have made as much of a splash as Juno. Perched along one of De Pijp’s prettiest streets, Juno’s trademark offering is their open-fire grill. That means everything on the menu has gorgeous texture and crispness, from grilled tiger prawns and turbot to a bavette that has guests raving. The wine list is extensive (more than 250 wines) and the ambience is intimate, with DJs playing vinyl from Thursday to Sunday. FRANS HALSSTRAAT 42, JUNORESTAURANT.NL

COMMUNAL COOL

Fifty years of Toko Omoe

Zuidoost

Home to some of the city’s most exciting festivals and events, Zuidoost comes alive when the sun’s out.

Gaasperplas beach

Back in 1975, Toko Kai Hing (now Toko Omoe) was opened as the first store in the Ganzenhoef shopping centre by Kai Hing Li, who still works there to this day. He’s called Omoe – ‘uncle’ in Surinamese, a pet name for when there is a strong bond with the shopkeeper. To honour and celebrate Omoe and his shop, Imagine IC has dedicated an exhibition to him. Visit both the shop and the exhibition and Omoe will be your favourite shopkeeper too.

HARRIËT FREEZERSTRAAT 108A, OMOE.NL. UNTIL 31 JULY, IMAGINEIC.NL

Try the Bird of Paradise beer (€5.50 on tap) at this bird-inspired brewery in the middle of the Diemerbos.

DIEMERBOSPAD 1A SHOP.BIRDBREWERY.COM

CBK Zomer Salon - Amsterdam 750

Zuidoost’s hub for contemporary visual arts celebrates Amsterdam’s 750th birthday with a special ‘Summer Salon’ inviting new and budding artists to submit works inspired by the birthday theme. It asks artists to use the anniversary as an inspiration, with topics ranging from our colonial past and the battle against the (sea) water to the way in which the city has been depicted in the arts. A great pick if you’re interested in emerging art and out-of-the-box thinking.

12 JULY-23 AUGUST, CBKZUIDOOST.NL

This recreational nature reserve, created by sand extraction for the construction of flats in the Bijlmer area, covers around 166 hectares, meaning there’s always a good spot to stop with your beach towel and soak up some of those elusive rays. It’s got designated spots for barbecuing and water sports. Plus: this summer you’ll find food trucks from neighbourhood entrepeneurs at the shores. Plenty to do to keep everyone fed, entertained and active!

‘The Douwe Egberts café in Amsterdamse Poort shopping centre is one of my favourite spots because it’s close to my office and they make an incredible chai latte.’

Natalia (27), dental nurse

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET TRAVEL WITH THE

by bus, tram, metro & train

Buy your ticket here

Scan the QR-code for more information and online ticket sales or purchase your ticket at the ‘I Amsterdam Store’.

Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam Area

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

Broek in Waterland

Once the residence of wealthy ship captains and merchants, Broek in Waterland has long been a prosperous village. Today, however, its riches lie more in beauty than in trade. The charming wooden houses – meticulously restored and painted in the traditional ‘Broeker’ grey – offer some of the most picturesque views in Old Holland. Stop by the Broeker Kerk church, where you’ll find a tearoom and exhibitions by local artists.

Summer in Bloom

80 | BY: TOM FLANAGAN

From mid-August onwards, pluck your own flowers at the Dahlia Picking Garden of De Tulperij before enjoying some coffee and homemade apple pie in the greenhouse.

Where the Wild Flowers Are

The Netherlands might be synonymous with the tulip, but in the summertime, fields around Amsterdam bloom with often-forgotten-about flora.

It’s early August in the area around Hilversum and Laren. The sun dips beneath its usual peak, and light crests the meadows. Throughout the year, these same fields go from frost-tipped to faded green, as the seasons do their work. But for a short period in summer, everything turns purple. That’s thanks to the heather in full bloom. A wildflower native to the Dutch landscape, when in bloom, it transforms the gentle flat land it calls home into a royal carpet woven of deep lavender. It’s an evocative sight and a reminder of the country’s diverse tapestry of flowers come the summer, which is often overlooked in favour of the tulip in the spring.

Wildflower heaven

The Netherlands is one of the world’s largest exporters of flowers, account-

ing for nearly half of the world’s flower trade. But for all its trade, some of its blooms still linger in the shadows. From heather to red clovers, water forget-me-nots and daisies, the Netherlands is home to an abundance of wildflowers, both native and cultivated. In fact, there are believed to be close to 800 different species, many of which you can find in meadows, forests and the dunes. And though springtime in the flower region around Amsterdam, such as in Hillegom and Lisse, sees those famous flowers bloom, the summertime is just as worthy for those seeking a pretty picture.

Dearest dahlia

One of the highlights is the dahlia blooming season. While not native to the Netherlands, dahlias are now widely cultivated, and their

The Netherlands is home to an abundance of wildflowers, both native and cultivated

Summer in Bloom

blooming season rivals even the tulips for colour and spectacle. For flower farmers such as Noor Reijerkerk, dahlias are a way of life. ‘My family has always worked with flowers, but dahlias are my favourites’, says Reijerkerk, who runs the website ilovedahlia.com. ‘It was once a wildflower, but now it’s cultivated here. We grow more than 600 different varieties, and they’re all incredibly unique – you have some the size of your hand and others your fingertip.’ They bloom in August, which is also the best time to pick them at one of the picking gardens such as Reijerkerk’s. But for many wildflowers, you can spot them beyond the growing fields in locations you least expect. And stumbling upon them is part of the beauty of flowers in the first place, says Reijerkerk. ‘When you’re out in the fields, I don’t want to say it’s heaven, but it’s close to it. When people come to us, they leave their phones and selves behind momentarily. They go out into the meadow, at peace with the flowers.’

All the flowers

Heather

Native to the country, this pink and purple wildflower carpets dunes, moors and woodlands.

Blooming season: August-September Where to find them: Zuiderheide near Laren/ Hilversum

Poppies

These slender scarlet buds appear alongside roadsides around Amsterdam. Blooming season: May-August Where to find them: Zuid-Kennemerland National Park

Daisies

The friendly face of every garden, these yellow and white flowers represent beauty in simplicity. Blooming season: March-October Where to find them: Fields and meadows everywhere, like in Broek in Waterland and Edam

Alliums

A non-native flower, these purple, globe-shaped bulbs dubbed the ‘Purple Sensation’ ( Allium hollandicum) are cultivated favourites. Blooming season: May-June Where to find them: Keukenhof, Bollenstreek

ILoveDahlia

The Botanical Prints postcard box from Rijksmuseum includes 50 cards of floral and botanical illustrations that are works of art themselves.

RIJKSMUSEUMSHOP.NL/EN/ POSTCARDBOX-BOTANICAL-PRINTS

The national flower

Contrary to popular belief, the daisy (not the tulip) is the Netherlands’ national flower, at least informally. While the Netherlands doesn’t have an official national flower, radio show Vroege Vogels organised a 2023 competition with the daisy coming out on top of the public vote. The tulip didn’t qualify as it’s technically not native to the country.

Red Clover

These pink and purple wildflowers play a key role as pollinators in the local ecosystem.

Blooming season: May-September

Where to find them: Wildflower meadows and canal banks

Cornflower

Electric blue beauties that are a symbol of hope.

Water Forget Me Nots

Blooming season: June-August

Where to find them:

Roadsides and wildflower meadows in Het Twiske

Beautiful blue blooms that linger near watery shores and are a symbol of remembrance.

Blooming season: June-September

Where to find them:

Nature reserves such as Ilperveld and wetland areas

Dahlias

Often peachy and pink. The Netherlands is one of the largest producers of them in the world.

Blooming season: Mid-August-Mid-October

Where to find them: ILoveDahlia or DeTulperij flower fields

Castles & Gardens

Grab a bottle of the Amsteltuin vineyard’s crisp white wine (€15.50) to take home.

AMSTELTUIN.NL

Grand Realms

Moated castles, patchworks of forest and grand estates await, where you can escape into a quiet, green landscape.

Erfgoed Festival

Running the course of the summer, this festival spotlights crafters and makers in the Gooi and Vecht region. From culinary tours to plant markets and special heritage tours of the region’s monuments, the programming has a real sense of pride and curation. And for those who like culture with a bit of activity, consider grabbing a bike and trying one of the heritage cycle routes that take you through gorgeous countryside to historic locations.

UNTIL 14 SEPTEMBER

VISITGOOIVECHT.NL/NL/ZIEN-DOEN/ ERFGOEDFESTIVAL

Amsteltuin Vineyard

Amid the green of Amstelveen lies a little gold – the city’s own treasure, the Amsteltuin Vineyard. While Amsterdam and the wider region aren’t known for wine, winemakers such as Amsteltuin want to change that. Stop by in the summer for a wine tour and tasting session, as well as one of their ‘High Wine Sessions’ that involves a custom wine basket, snacks and/or lunch, and unblemished views of the vineyard.

AMSTELTUIN.NL

Loosdrecht Lakes

For a watery adventure, the Loosdrechtse Plassen (Loosdrecht Lakes) are perfect for sporty types: think sailing, canoeing, waterskiing and speedboating. If taking a boat out yourself isn’t your thing, join a sailboat or speedboat excursion, or relax on a terrace and admire the view from dry land. And for anyone heading along the Vecht to the lakes on two wheels, De Fietsboot lets you hop on and off and continue by bike as you please.

DEFIETSBOOT.NL

How to get there

Amsteltuin: Take bus 356 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA to Amstelveen (50 minutes)

Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden (40 minutes)

Loosdrecht: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum, transfer to bus 121 to Oud-Loosdrecht (80 minutes)

Wander the marina of Lelystad before lunch by the water at Club Portside – a perfect stopover before a trip to Marker Wadden. CLUBPORTSIDE.NL

New Land

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments.

Nature Returns

Marker Wadden

Part of Nieuw Land National Park, Marker Wadden is a nature reserve made up of man-made islands crafted from sand, clay and silt dredged from the Markermeer. This thriving ecosystem, rich in plant life both above and below the water, has become a sanctuary for fish and birds alike. Set sail on the Abel Tasman with a local guide, or opt for the Marker Wadden Experience Tour – departing from Lelystad or Almere – which begins with a VR bus journey and continues with a guided cruise through Flevoland’s fascinating history.

NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL/EN/THE-PARK/MARKER-WADDEN

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ newland

Almere beaches

Almere offers over 42 kilometres of coastline, including Europe’s largest catamaran beach. Relax or swim at beaches like Almeerderstrand and Strandbad Duin, or head to Batavia Beach (Lelystad) for flyboarding and surfing. Many beaches have restaurants, cafés, public toilets and showers for convenience so you can make it a day-to-night outing. VISITALMERE.COM/EN

For Mexican food in Almere, Rosita’s is the go-to spot. Since their time in Mexico, hostess Sonja and chef Ton have tried to capture the spirit of the Land of Mariachi, with a menu filled with traditional dishes from empanadas to molé and plenty of mezcal. The decor helps, too, with a washed yellow stone interior, tiled floors and a colourful terrace all helping bring a little bit of Mexico City to Flevoland. ROSITAS.NL

How to get there

Almere and Lelystad:

- Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Almere Centrum station (20 minutes)

- Take the train from Almere Centrum to Lelystad Centrum station (14 minutes)

Haarlem

The Good Life

With storied streets, an old river and romantic spires, Haarlem is alive with charm and history.

Get swept up in the celestial magic of the Cosmos exhibition at Teylers Museum, combining contemporary art and science. UNTIL 29 JUNE, TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL/EN/ WHAT-S-ON/COSMOS

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on iamsterdam.com/ haarlem

Food festivals

For great food, make your way to Haarlem. Each year, the city hosts Haarlem Culinair, a lively culinary festival where top local restaurants serve delicious, aff ordable dishes set against the stunning backdrop of the Grote Markt and the towering St. Bavokerk church. Alongside global cuisine and regional dishes made with local produce, visitors can enjoy speciality beers, wines and live music. Later, ProefPark Haarlem arrives in Kenaupark, where more than 30 food trucks descend upon this monumental green space.

31 JULY-3 AUGUST, HAARLEMCULINAIR.NL

22 AUGUST-24 AUGUST, PROEFPARKHAARLEM.NL

City beach the Oerkap

While Amsterdam’s actual beach isn’t far away, if you want some sand in the city, the Oerkap has you covered. Located in Haarlem’s northeastern corner, this former factory turned restaurant, bar and beach is a go-to for Haarlemmers in the summertime. Complete with a sandy outdoor stretch, an expansive garden terrace and a roof terrace, enjoy beers and burgers under festoon lights in this Brooklyn-inspired space. Plus, there’s live music every last Friday of the month.

HARMENJANSWEG 95, OERKAP.NL

get

to

there Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem station (20 minutes)

Voted the Netherlands’ best ice cream in 2020, you’ll find half of the town queuing for a scoop at Nelis Ice Cream Parlour on late summer evenings.

NELISIJSSALON.NL

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp’s protected city centre is a cluster of cosy cafés, forts and photogenic drawbridges.

Quiet Comforts

Theetuin Noot

Built in 1974 within one of the four bastions of the old fortified city, Theetuin Noot was the first tearoom in the Netherlands. Choose from their attractive selection of coff ees, cakes and pastries before finding a spot in the Alice in Wonderland-esque garden, where the various plants attract gardening enthusiasts and buzzing insects alike, equally drawn to the turquoise-coloured cabins dotted around the grounds.

THEETUIN-NOOT.NL Find out more about Weesp at iamsterdam.com/ weesp

Open Monument Day

In September, thousands of historic buildings and sites across the Netherlands are open to the public free of charge, with many locations also organising exhibitions, musical performances and guided tours. The municipality of Weesp always takes part; when Fort Ossenmarkt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (generally not open to the public) and the De Vriendschap flour mill open their doors, it provides a oneoff opportunity to go behind the scenes at these heritage monuments.

13-14 SEPTEMBER, OPENMONUMENTENDAG.NL

Lock and Bridge Festival

The award for the most unusual festival goes to the Sluis-en-Bruggenfeest (Lock and Bridge Festival). Created by the municipality in 1978, it commemorates the restoration of the locks and bridges in the city centre and has been celebrated yearly since its inception. With 220 food and crafts stalls set up around Weesp, locals congregate on the streets, bridges and canals in the spirit of urban history, with plenty of festivities to go around.

28-30 AUGUST, SBFEEST.NL

Zaan Area

For more tips, routes and hidden spots in the Zaan region, check out: zaans.nl

Cycle from Amsterdam into the heart of the Zaanstreek area, along the 11-kilometre waterfront of the Zaan River connecting vintage buildings with a grand industrial past and a new, cultural purpose.

A Bike Trip Along the Zaan River

Your journey begins in Amsterdam at the historic harbour pier, Het Stenen Hoofd, before you cycle north toward your first stop.

Hembrugterrein

Once a munitions factory complex, this area has transformed into a vibrant cultural hub. There’s plenty to explore – if you’re in the mood for art and reflection, visit the Museum of Humanity, which offers a moving exploration of what it means to be human. For a coffee and a bite, Lab-44 and Cafeteria Hembrug are both great spots to recharge.

Zaandam

Next up is Zaandam, the major city of the region. Here, you’ll find the Lego-like Inntel Hotel. and pop into the Zaanstore across the street for local products, sightseeing tips, and a shot with giant Zaanse clogs. Discover

the tiny Czar Peter House, where the Russian tsar once stayed, and the iconic Blue House captured by famous painter Monet. Hungry? Pass by De Fabriek or lively Dam square for a burger and fries, or the Verkadefabriek, which will lure you in with the smell of freshly baked bread.

Zaandijk

Head north out of the city and you’ll end up in Zaandijk, one of the region’s prettiest villages. Stop by Brouwerij Hoop’s beer garden for a craft beer in the sunshine, or Restaurant Wolfsend for tea and coffee.

Zaanse Schans

Arguably the region’s most famous sight, the Zaanse Schans open-air museum is your next stop. Originating in 1850, the windmills provide a glimpse into the industrial past of the Netherlands. Most of the traditional vil-

lage houses have now transformed into workshops for the region’s crafts, like weaving and barrel-making.

Vijfhoekpark

Make your last stop a leisurely one at Vijfhoekpark. Teeming with highland cattle and local wildlife, dip your toes in the water after a long bike ride. From here, bike to NDSM in Amsterdam Noord – once the largest shipyard in Europe, now an emerging area for art, food and innovative enterprises.

Check out the online route: scan the QR-code to follow the route on Komoot

Indulge in the city’s eponymous cheese at Edam Cheese Market for eight weeks over the summer, only on Wednesday mornings.

4 JULY-20 AUGUST

KAASMARKTEDAM.NL

Old Holland

With its picturesque fishing villages, artisan makers and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering this region feels like stepping back in time.

Windmill Country

Het Weeshuis Monnickendam

The tranquil harbour town of Monnickendam is home to dozens of monumental buildings and one of those is this former orphanage turned tearoom. The scents of freshly baked apple pie linger in its waterside tea garden, where you can tuck into cakes or a full high tea. It’s a volunteer-run café and crafts atelier, meaning glass and wood workshops are provided onsite, and there’s always the chance to shop for beautiful handcrafted items.

WEESHUISMONNICKENDAM.NL

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ oldholland

Summer in the Fieldd

In the summer, the Wormer- and Jisperveld landscape is at its greenest. Breeding season is over, it becomes a bit quieter and the languid heat can sometimes lie like a blanket over land and water. Plants are in full bloom. Under an experienced skipper’s direction, Visitor Centre De Poelboerderij organises a Summer in the Field excursion (and various other boat trips throughout the season) where your guide will reveal all about the villages, the water and the mills.

25 JUNE, BEZOEKERSCENTRUMPOELBOERDERIJ.NL /VAARTOCHTEN

Art in Zaandam

Zaandam’s art scene is thriving, and this season marks the opening of ZAMU (Zaandam Amsterdam Museum). Housed across 16 industrial buildings, the museum dedicates each space to a different 20th-century artist, including an installation by American sculptor John Chamberlain. In the meantime, don’t miss An Exercise in Joy by colourful artist Bas Kosters (read the interview with him on page 40), where bold tapestries, paintings, costumes and sculptures come together in a celebration of joy.

OPENS SEPTEMBER, ZAMU.AMSTERDAM UNTIL 6 JULY, ARTZAANSTAD.NL

How to get there

Zaandam : Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zaandam station (two stops further is Zaanse Schans station) (15 minutes)

Wormer: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Wormerveer station and walk across the river to Wormer (30 minutes)

Flower Region

The world-famous flower strip is just as stunning in the summertime, with hushed gardens, serene lakes and wildflower fields.

All skill levels are welcome at Klimpark 21, a 1,000-hectare outdoor climbing park built entirely from sustainable materials.

KLIMPARK21.NL

Lake Season

Westeinderplassen

The crystalline waters of the Westeinderplassen (West End Lakes) offer something for everyone — from swimming and sailing lessons to leisurely boat trips. Known for its rich horticultural heritage, the area’s tiny islands still cultivate strawberries and fragrant lilacs. Explore this lush maze on an open or covered boat tour with Westeinder Rondvaart, where knowledgeable skippers share stories of the region’s blooming past. Afterwards, climb the steps of the 50-metre-high Art Deco Aalsmeer Watertoren for sweeping panoramic views.

WESTEINDERRONDVAART.NL

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam.com/

Park21 Summer Week

Haarlemmermeerse Bos

This serene green oasis covers 115 hectares, offering a peaceful retreat for nature lovers. Developed in the 1970s, this expansive park is perfect for outdoor activities such as walking, cycling, and picnicking along scenic lakesides. The park also features sports facilities, playgrounds and landmarks such as Big Spotters Hill, which offers stunning views from its 22-metre-high pyramid-shaped hill. Tuck into speciality beers and substantial snack platters at Papa’s Beach House’s hidden lakeside terrace.

PAPASHOUSES.COM

During Summer Week, Haarlemmermeer green space Park21 comes alive. Classed as ‘the festival for everyone’, it lives up to its name in terms of programming, with openair cinema, a volleyball tournament, wellness evenings, a circus workshop and plant excursions all on offer. Taking place across one week in July, this is a great way to take advantage of the park’s space and the area’s cultural offerings.

1-6 JULY, VISITHAARLEMMERMEER.NL

How to get there

Hoofddorp (Haarlemmermeer): Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hoofddorp (20 minutes)

Aalsmeer (Westeinderplassen): Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hoofddorp, transfer to bus 340 to bus stop Aalsmeer Midden (60 minutes)

Plot an arty route along the coast with Street Art Zandvoort and watch the seaside transform.

JUNE-SEPTEMBER

Northern Summer

Beach

Salt-tinged and sublime, the coastline around Amsterdam is dotted with sloping dunes, tiny islands and clear, crystalline views.

PreSail IJmond

Once every five years, the ports of IJmuiden and Beverwijk form the starting point of Sail Amsterdam. The arrival of the tall ships will be celebrated with PreSail IJmond, a connecting event where shipping, fish, culture, innovation and sustainability are central themes. The party in IJmond seamlessly follows the Sail-In Parade on Wednesday 20 August. 18-19 AUGUST

SAIL.NL, PRESAILIJMOND.NL

Duinfestival Heemskerk

Don’t miss this offbeat cultural festival, where visitors can cycle along a performance route through the stunning Heemskerk dunes. Enjoy singing, music, theatre, art and more during an active day out amid the sand as nature and culture collide. The programme starts at 3.45 pm in Heemskerk and ends at 10 pm at the Vrijheit Beach Pavilion.

23 AUGUST, HEEMSKERKZEEVANTIJD.NL/ DUINFESTIVAL

Mango’s Beachbar

Zandvoort’s dozens of beach clubs, restaurants and pavilions offer the perfect relaxation place, with windscreened terraces and delicious food and drink options. But it’s hard to top a luxurious sunset cocktail at Mango’s Beachbar. Take in views of swept sands and crashing waves while you’re perched in one of the Cuban-inspired huts, sipping on Cuba Libre.

MANGOSBEACHBAR.NL

How to get there

Zandvoort: Take the train from Amsterdam

Central to Zandvoort station (30 minutes)

IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam

Sloterdijk to IJmuiden aan Zee (45 minutes)

Heemskerk: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Heemskerk station (35 minutes)

Art, Science and Ideals

Visit

Haarlem 15 minutes from Amsterdam

My Amsterdam

BY: INEKE GOES

In each edition, we ask a local illustrator to share their view on Amsterdam.

‘I’m a Dutch illustrator and animator living in Amsterdam Noord. My favourite walk from home takes me along an unfinished canal, surrounded by an interesting blend of old and modern architecture. In summer, locals – myself included – swim here or enjoy a drink by the water, basking in the sun. It’s a short walk, but one full of good vibes that always get my ideas flowing.’ INEKEGOES.NL AND @INEKE_GOES

On the Way Out

SUMMER FESTIVAL TIPS FROM THE MAGAZINE’S TEAM...

so the refreshing breeze from the IJ will

‘Summer means open-air film festival season in Amsterdam, and I always make time for Pluk de Nacht, which pops up at the end of August at Het Stenen Hoofd. There’s something magical about bundling up with a blanket under the stars to watch an indie film (spritz in hand) on a balmy mid-week evening. And if it’s really warm, you’re right by the water, so the refreshing breeze from the IJ will cool you off before the cycle home.’

Verity Seward, senior editor iamsterdam.com

‘As a big foodie, I’ll be going to Trek food festival at Amstelpark this summer. They have a wide range of street food, theatre performances and live music. I’ll also be performing with my band – Blend-It – on 5 July, playing acoustic pop covers and our own music filled with harmonies.’

Theresa Auer, editorial intern

editor-in-chief

B art van Oosterhout art director & basic design

Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer

‘I’m usually out of town riding my bike somewhere when Dekmantel Festival’s on, but it always hurts. If you love club music, this is where you’ll probably hear those songs, bass lines or vocal snippets that will stay with you forever. Not this year for me though, hopefully next time!’

Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors

Christiaan de Wit, music journalist and copywriter

Theresa Auer, Senay Boztas, Lauren Comiteau, Britt Dittner, Karin Engelbrecht, Tom Flanagan, Ineke Goes, Lesia Joukova, Pascale Kahn, Kim van der Meulen, Kirsten van Santen, Verity Seward, Monique Wijbrands, Christiaan de Wit, Ajša Zdravkovic

‘I don’t usually plan ahead, but if there’s one event on my summer agenda it’s Klikofest, in Patronaat in my hometown Haarlem. The music is loud (garage, punk, rock ‘n’ roll, trash, that sort of thing) and my friend Thomas is playing with his band Leadbeaters. Plus, Maria Iskariot and The Protos, I’m a fan!’

Martijn Blokland, designer

‘I definitely recommend checking out Amsterdam Open Air, a vibrant outdoor festival

happening on 7 and 8 June in Gaasperpark. As an expat, I’ve been there a few times with my international friends, and it’s always a great experience.

Open Air really captures the spirit of summer – bringing friends together, dancing under the sun, and making unforgettable memories.’ Pema Gurung, influencer editor

Enjoy a summer of music in The Royal Concertgebouw

More than 80 concerts in July and August For the complete programme, visit summerconcerts.nl

Wed 02/07

A Night on Broadway

Experience the magic of Broadway with highlights from timeless classics such as An American in Paris, South Pacific, My Fair Lady, and West Side Story. Performed by Philzuid, featuring vocalists Laetitia Gerards and Milan van Waardenburg, with Duncan Ward conducting.

Sat 02/08

A Spanish summer evening with the master of flamenco

Transport yourself to Seville on a summer evening filled with flamenco and duende. Guitarist Tomatito, the master of flamenco nuevo, performs alongside his musicians, vocalists, and dancer Karime Amaya for an unforgettable evening of passionate, rhythmic spectacle.

Fri 08/08

Saint-Saëns’ Organ Symphony and Bruce Liu with Ravel

Bruce Liu plays with ‘feline agility and lightness of touch’ wrote The New York Times Liu takes centre stage in Ravel’s jazzy Piano Concerto. The China NCPA Orchestra and conductor Myung-whun Chung also perform Saint-Saëns’ beloved Organ Symphony

Mon 11/08

A musical journey from Europe to Cuba

The phenomenal Havana Lyceum Orchestra and horn player Sarah Willis play the best tracks from their three Mozart y Mambo albums. Experience vibrant Cuban dances and hits like Guantanamera, alongside the masterpieces of Mozart and Bizet.

Fri 22/08

American Night with pianist Hayato Sumino

American conductor Jonathon Heyward leads the Radio Philharmonic Orchestra in Dvořák’s captivating Ninth Symphony ‘From the New World” and Gershwin’s Piano Concerto. The soloist is the popular pianist and improviser Hayato Sumino.

Wed 27/08

Beethoven 5 and Wagner with the Ukrainian Freedom Orchestra

The Ukrainian Freedom Orchestra has become a beloved summer tradition in Amsterdam. Founder Keri-Lynn Wilson conducts Beethoven’s famous Fifth Symphony, and soprano Rachel Willis-Sørensen performs Wagner’s poignant Liebestod

For photo credits, please refer to the specific concert informat ion on ZomerConcerten.nl