I Amsterdam Magazine Autumn 2025

HIDDEN GEM IN CITY CENTRE

Discover the Kalverpassage

#Fashion #Food #Drinks #View

#Art #Parking

#Toilets #Open7days

HAPPPY BIRTHDAY AMSTERDAM

When autumn turns the colours of the city all kinds of red and orange, Amsterdam has got you covered with warm and cosy spots. has

06 Read the City

WELCOME

Amsterdam’s art reputation is global, but its literary significance is often overlooked – incredible for a city that harbours atmospheric libraries, illustrious authors and the best bookshops.

15 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

Find the best Turkish eateries, get your matcha hit at the city’s top spots and find out where to score the most delicious sandwiches.

31 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

AFor more information about Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com

Everything you need to add into your calendar for the autumn, from art exhibitions and top-notch musicals to Amsterdam Dance Event.

55 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

There’s a new discovery around every corner: find out all about the ferries of Amsterdam, while our shopping and eating tips will make choosing easy.

71 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Explore beyond the borders of Amsterdam and discover fairytale villages, magnificent land art and autumn walks in the dunes.

87 On the Way Out

MY AMSTERDAM & COLOPHON

An artist’s view on Amsterdam, plus the very makers of this magazine send you off with their personal book tips in their city.

msterdam celebrates its 750th birthday on 27 October 2025. We know the exact date because the city archives hold a tol privilege, a piece of parchment dated 27 October 1275 on which Count Floris V exempts ‘persons who live in the vicinity of the dam in the Amstel River (Amestelledamme)’ from paying a toll. If you want to know more about the history of Amsterdam, there’s a bunch of books to choose from. My personal recommendation would be Amsterdam, A History of the World’s Most Liberal City by Russell Shorto, the American author, historian and journalist who headed the John Adams institute, the unofficial American cultural embassy in Amsterdam. Our main feature from page 6 is a must-read for book lovers, and lists the best places to sit down with a good read such as Shorto’s. If you like parties more than books, you can also indulge. Festivities for our city’s 750th anniversary will be inescapable on the actual date of ‘birth’, but they will take off during the weekend beforehand, with one of the main events being the Amsterdam Music Festival (AMF) in the Johan Cruijff ArenA. With a line-up that includes DJs Hardwell and Armin van Buuren, this is destined to be one of the main events of the year. At time of writing, tickets are still available, but if they aren’t by the time you read this, don’t panic as AMF is merely the closing party of the immense Amsterdam Dance Event, which spans four days (2226 October) and boasts more than 1,000 performances in 200+ venues all around the city. You haven’t really been to Amsterdam if you’ve missed that one.

Bart

van Oosterhout

Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

| BY: TOM FLANAGAN

Read the City

Amsterdam’s art reputation is global, but its literary past and present are often overlooked: incredible for a city that harbours atmospheric libraries, illustrious authors and the best bookshops.

Along Amsterdam’s central canals, you’d be forgiven for focusing on the outdoor scenery before you turn your eyes indoors. In the autumn, slender elms flecked with gold are framed by some of the city’s most appealing canal houses, as the towering Westerkerk juts out above gabled roofs. It’s a cityscape that feels innately romantic, even literary. And while it’s tempting to get swept up in the views, once you reach Keizersgracht 123, known as the ‘House with the Heads’, you’ll want to look inside. After all, it’s here where you’ll find the Embassy of the Free Mind museum and, within it, the Ritman Library.

Libraries and free thinking

The Ritman is the world’s largest library on the Christian Hermetic tradition – home to around 30,000 works answering the big questions of what it means to be human. It’s also a beautiful, almost magical space, where thousand-year-old texts –such as the very first Latin Quran and ornate books on Sufism –perch on wooden shelves and under beamed ceilings, a vision of what we imagine libraries to look like. And yet this is a place easy to miss, much like Amsterdam’s literary history.

‘Amsterdam has always been a place to disappear,’ says Jozef Ritman, whose father, Joost, opened the

It seems few would characterise the city as a literary destination

Pages Unturned

library in 1984 after 30 years of collecting hermetic texts. ‘Look at the history of Europe; the Netherlands was a swamp, where rivers end up in a delta. In a forgotten place like that, you attract a certain kind of thinking. It was where Europe came together and that spirit of difference is reflected in what we do.’

While Amsterdam’s reputation as a place for free thinking is well-known, that same reputation allowed a lesser-known image to flourish: publishing. But even though people pilgrimage from around the world to visit this library and the nearby Anne Frank House, it seems few would characterise the city as a literary destination.

From publishing to poetry

Amsterdam has a long tradition of literature. Once a publishing hub and place of bookselling for much of Europe during the 1600s, its reputation as a place free of prying eyes and censorship made it appealing to the likes of some of the world’s greatest thinkers, such as Baruch Spinoza and René

Dear Amsterdam…

Other than being a place to write, Amsterdam has also been the setting for numerous stories and international bestsellers.

 Donna Tartt’s The Gold nch (2013) finds its way among the canals, coffee shops and hotels of Amsterdam, with writers’ hotel De Ambassade the alleged location of the protagonist’s fated stay.

 On the corner of the Leidsegracht, you’ll find the bench that featured in John Green’s The Fault in Our Stars (2012), scribbled with messages from lovers far and wide.

 Visit the Rijksmuseum for Petronella Oortman’s dollhouse, which inspired Jessie Burton’s The Minaturist (2014) or stroll down Warmoesstraat, the real-world home of Oortman.

Descartes. It was the home of Joost van den Vondel, fondly referred to as the ‘Prince of Poets’, and in the 19th and 20th centuries gave birth to the likes of Eduard Douwes Dekker – aka Multatuli, who wrote the venerated novel Max Havelaar, a searing critique of Dutch colonialism – and, of course, Anne Frank.

So why doesn’t the city get its due? Lisa Kuitert, Professor of Book Studies at the

It’s only recently that it’s become a publishing capital

University of Amsterdam, says language and history play a part in why the capital, and the Netherlands more broadly, is overlooked in the book realm. ‘Dutch isn’t a widely-spoken language around the world, so people have no idea about Dutch literary culture,’ she explains. ‘Realistically, Amsterdam was also a very poor city

until the 20th century, so it’s only recently, since internationalisation and modernisation, that it’s become a publishing capital.’ That’s not to say there’s no literary culture, though, says Kuitert. In fact, the Dutch had a strong poetry movement courtesy of De Vijftigers (‘The Fiftiers’) in the 1950s, a group who wrote experimental verses that broke with

Oudemanhuispoort

You’ll find the Amsterdammertje bollards all around the city, and this wooden bookmark (€11.95) shaped like one is a version you can take home with you. WOODENAMSTERDAM.COM

Writers’ cafés

Certain cafés and bars used to be the temporary homes of acclaimed writers and journalists back in the day, a place to write and meet other minds. Dip into writerly history at Scheltema aka the ‘Fleet Street of the Netherlands’, journalist hangout Café de Pels and Harry Mulisch’s haunt Café Americain. Mulisch would allegedly call the venue itself so the waiter would be forced to shout ‘Telephone for Mr Mulisch’, and his former table is now dubbed ‘Harry Mulisch’s Reading Table’.

© RENE DEN ENGELSMAN

Hotel V Nes Cuypers Library

Café Americain

Pages Unturned

Museum libraries

Beyond the Rijksmuseum, both Huis Marseille and the National Maritime Museum are home to dedicated book collections. At the former, you’ll find an extensive catalogue of photography and monographs, while the latter is home to nautical works and texts on watery histories. HUISMARSEILLE.NL

convention. ‘Poets such as Lucebert and Remco Campert were big names. They represented a big shift in poetry – they stopped using rhyme and experimented with expressive sounds. They weren’t always comprehensive, but they did something to you emotionally.’

And then there’s the De Grote Drie (‘The Great Three’) of Dutch literature – the term used for postwar authors Gerard Reve, Harry Mulisch and Willem Frederik Hermans, known (respectively) for books such as The Evenings (1947), The Assault (1982) and The Darkroom of Damocles (1958). As for what defines Dutch literature and its literary culture, Kuitert says there are themes. ‘Even today, the Dutch tend to write about themselves, their lives. There isn’t a tradition of fiction here as there is in other countries.’

Bookshop galore

Whether you’re familiar with Dutch literature or not, the city is a bona fide hub for book lovers, especially if you love

Story time

Beyond just books and libraries, Amsterdam is emerging as a destination for storytelling clubs and literary festivals. There’s the Amsterdam Storytelling Festival (6-9 November, podiummozaiek.nl), where acclaimed storytellers light up the autumn nights in this four-day festival, with pacey plots, touching tales and real-life accounts surfacing from around the world. Amsterdam’s leading literature festival Read My

World (11-13 September, readmyworld.nl) is dedicated to unearthing the stories that lie beneath the sheen of daily news. Spend a few days with writers and poets, and be reminded of literature’s power to answer the significant questions of our time. And don’t miss Mezrab (Veemkade 576, mezrab.nl), dubbed the ‘House of Stories’. Head here on their open mic nights when local storytellers pour their hearts out and then some.

Amsterdam Museum Patio

All around the city, you’ll find small neighbourhood libraries – little bookcases on the street – with unwanted paperbacks for you to take, though it’s always nice to leave one in return.

The best bookshops

With more than 90 shops, Amsterdam has a bookshop for everyone – the challenge is picking which to choose.

ARCHITECTURA & NATURA

Speciality bookshop focused entirely on architectural history, urban design, botanical life and animal studies.

LELIEGRACHT 22, ARCHITECTURA.NL

SPUI

About 25 booksellers gather here every Friday to sell their collections of old, rare, second-hand and out-of-print books at Spui Book Market. You’ll also find the American Book Center here, a family-owned business that is one of the biggest English-language bookshops in Amsterdam, and Athaneaum, a longtime institution for Dutch-language literature and hard-to-find magazines.

SPUI 12, ABC.NL

SPUI 14-16, ATHENAEUMSCHELTEMA.NL

AMSTERDAM ANTIQUARIAN BOOKSTORE

A passionate bibliophile opened this in 1952 and it remains a storied hideout for rare finds and literary heritage.

KEIZERSGRACHT 123, AABOOKSTORE.COM

SCHELTEMA

A Dutch chain with an impressive English section – the main branch on Rokin is home to 125,000+ titles and a cookbook section with a kitchen.

ROKIN 9, ATHENAEUMSCHELTEMA.NL/SCHELTEMA

OUDEMANHUISPOORT MARKET

An 17th-century covered walkway, brimming with stalls stacked with second-hand books, prints and sheet music.

OUDEMANHUISPOORT 14

BOOKS4LIFE.AMSTERDAM

BIJLMER BOOKSTORE

This community bookshop curates fiction, non-fiction, cookbooks and poetry by Black authors from Africa and the diaspora.

HARRIËT FREEZERSTRAAT 108A

BIJLMERBOOKSTORE.COM

JAVA BOOKSHOP

A neighbourhood-friendly and favourite, this bookshop has both Dutch- and English-language sections, plus an extensive kids section, all within its ambient and cosy four walls.

JAVASTRAAT 145, JAVABOOKSHOP.NL

THE BOOK EXCHANGE

More than 50,000 preloved paperbacks across 40 categories make this the spot for secondhand books.

KLOVENIERSBURGWAL 58, BOOKEXCHANGE.NL

MINERVA

A local bookshop in Oud-Zuid that prides itself on its personal touch, where you’ll find everything from English literature to travel tomes and glossy magazines.

KONINGINNEWEG 229, BOEKHANDELMINERVA.NL

bookshops. Its rapid internationalisation means that Amsterdam’s bookish institutions are more accessible than ever, with plenty of English-language booksellers, and the rise of BookTok on TikTok driving younger people to brick-and-mortar shops more than ever. Sanne Muijser, who directs the Dutch Booksellers Association (Koninklijke Boekverkopersbond) says

The city’s bookish institutions are more accessible than ever

Amsterdam’s bookshop culture has responded to that, though it’s always been there. ‘We have a strong book culture now in Amsterdam with more than 90 shops, many of them small and indie, with a lot of English sections plus ones related to our history,’ he says. ‘They’ve always been sanctuaries, but BookTok has brought a lot more young people to these spaces who use it as meeting points, as a way to get to know people and their neighbourhoods.’ One bookshop that has long fostered community in the capital is the American Book Center (ABC), Amsterdam’s first English-language bookshop and a cult favourite among both locals and visitors. Started in 1972 and owned by an American family, it remains a family-run business, with a focus on community. ‘We try to be something for everyone, and we organise events such as writer’s nights to bring people together,’ says Tiemen Zwaan, Senior Bookseller/Buyer. ‘We get a lot of both tourists and locals here, people who have the ABC as a destination to visit in Amsterdam.’ And rightly so, its multi-floor layout and in-house café make it a home for stories as much as a hideout for those writing them. Still, you’ll find similarly alluring spaces across the city. The Rijksmuseum’s Cuypers Library is a seductive, Hogwarts-esque escape; Oudemanhuispoort is a covered maze of antiquarian books and sellers that’ll transport you to

Banksy Warhol Basquiat Haring

Part history, part travel guide, journalist and author Geert Mak details Amsterdam’s storied, soulful journey from its murky past to present-day glory in Amsterdam: a brief life of the city.

times gone by, while snug writers’ cafés such as Café Welling will invite you to curl up with a book or debate one like the writers of old once did.

A storytelling sanctuary

Amsterdam’s literary culture is also very much of the present and still evolving. Enter Mezrab, a storytelling venue that invites visitors to share their stories on stage or curl up with a bowl of soup and listen. Part performance, part social club, it’s a place you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else and a nod to how Amsterdam is keeping its literary culture alive (and modern). ‘My father raised me on stories,’ says Sahand Sahebdivani, who founded Mezrab inspired by his Iranian heritage and the stories his parents would share growing up. ‘I came here as a refugee and we couldn’t bring anything with us. So I was aware of our

Amsterdam’s openness to stories has helped it become what it is

heritage, this culture of sharing stories, which I felt didn’t exist [in NL] at the time.’ Now, Mezrab is a success story – having recently opened a second location in West – with dedicated weekly programming and as much a place to hear great tales as it is to meet great people. And Sahebdivani says Amsterdam’s openness to stories has helped it become what it is and, in some way, that’s the real legacy of its literary past. ‘Amsterdam is a great literary city,’ he says. ‘They may not have the best writers, but they do have open spaces. And now, more than ever, with what’s going on in the world, we need this. When someone tells you a story here, you experience something you wouldn’t have access to, something human. And there’s something beautiful about doing that together.’

Literary corners

When you need a place to hide from the cold, or when books are the only company you’re after.

CUYPERS LIBRARY

Serene and stunning, this is the largest and oldest collection of historical art texts in the Netherlands and a gorgeous place to escape to.

MUSEUMSTRAAT 1 RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

MULTATULI MUSEUM

The 17th-century canal home of Eduard Douwes Dekker (pen name: Multatuli) – the man behind the Dutch classic Max Havelaar (1860) – has been turned into a boutique museum celebrating his life and work.

KORSJESPOORTSTEEG 20 MULTATULI-MUSEUM.NL

ETS HAIM, LIVRARIA MONTEZINOS

The oldest active Jewish library in the world, its 30,000-strong collection of works on Judaism is unparalleled.

MR. VISSERPLEIN 3 ETSHAIMMANUSCRIPTS.NL

ANNE FRANK HOUSE

The home of Amsterdam’s most famous alumni, this museum traces Anne Frank’s story and has

a thoughtful bookshop attached.

WESTERMARKT 20, ANNEFRANK.ORG

OBA OOSTERDOK

This centrally-located, sweeping, glass-fronted public library (that’s also the Netherlands’ biggest) houses a collection of 1.5 million books, periodicals, CDs, DVDs and games spread across seven floors. Grab a book and head up to the top to the OBA theatre and a restaurant with a terrace that boasts views over the city.

OSTERDOKSKADE 143, OBA.NL

BIBLIOTHECA

ROSENTHALIANA

Housed in the Allard Pierson Museum, the basis of this library was the personal collection of Leeser Rosenthal. Now it’s one of Europe’s largest libraries dedicated to Jewish history.

NIEUWE AMSTELSTRAAT 3-5 ALLARDPIERSON.NL

THE RITMAN LIBRARY

The world’s largest space for Christian-Hermeticism is home to unusual, esoteric texts not found anywhere else.

KEIZERSGRACHT 123

EMBASSYOFTHEFREEMIND.COM

CHARLIE RED

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Eat & Drink

BY: KARIN ENGELBRECHT, PASCALE KAHN

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

16 Turkish Tables

22 Magnificent Matcha

23 Fine Dining

26 Mexican Fiesta

27 Dining Out

28 Sandwich Culture

Salut

The more accessible little sister of buzzing Bisous has landed in De Pijp with a laid-back French Riviera flair. It’s walk-in only, warmly stylish and full of clever, snackable plates such as eel brioche, pata negra y pan con tomate (tomato toast with Spanish ham), moules Pastis (mussels in creamy beurre blanc) and blistered gambas a la plancha. With an all-day French-Mediterranean menu, classic wines and cocktails, it’s built for spontaneous moments, from morning croissants and relaxed lunches to afternoonaperitifs and late-night bites.

GERARD DOUSTRAAT 98, SALUT-OFFICIAL.COM

New Anatolia

The pide bread (€1.50) at Ekmek Teknesi bakery in Oost is golden and crisp, irresistibly tearable and made to share.

BEUKENWEG 28

Baklava

For the juiciest olives in Zuidoost (€2.25 for 150g) head to Celik Market. BIJLMERPLEIN 523

From Turkey, with Love

Long anchored

by

döner spots and bakeries, a wave of inventive, heritage-driven venues is reshaping Turkish food in Amsterdam.

Amsterdam’s Turkish food scene is having a quiet but confident renaissance, rich with flavour and anchored in heritage but with new-school twists worth discovering. Whether it’s the deeply traditional kelle paça (sheep’s head and trotter soup) at Nefis, sticky syrup-soaked baklava at Divan, tasty lahmacun (Turkish pizza) at Leeman Döner or the contemporary pistachio cheesecake at Belly Pepper, chefs are diving into regional traditions and family recipes to offer food that’s both nostalgic and fresh. There’s a shift from fast food to food with feeling, where sour cherry molasses, zesty sumac and smoky aubergine play starring roles. Walk through neighbourhoods such as De Baarsjes or Indische Buurt, and you’ll find stuffed vine leaves with wild herbs, slow-braised lamb with smoky tomato sauce, and crispy börek (pastries) layered like fancy mille-feuille. It’s also about community. Turkish supermarkets such as Sahan Supermarkt in Oost and Emre Supermarkt in West don’t just stock essentials; they’re places to discover pickled purslane, grilled olives, lamb neck and fresh yufka dough. Across the city, cooks and bakers are paying attention to every pickle and pastry. The focus remains squarely on bold, comforting flavours: grilled meats, tangy yoghurt, bright herbs and generous spices with simmering pots of mercimek (lentil soup) next to modern spins on köfte. Across the board, what’s being served feels personal. This isn’t trend-chasing, it’s a reimagining: Turkish cuisine with an unmistakably Amsterdam accent.

New Anatolia

18 | TURKISH TABLES

Belly Pepper

Brunch like you’re living it up on the Bosphorus at this Turkish eatery founded by two Turkish women called Esra. While restaurant manager Esra Çalapkulu keeps the front-of-house running smoothly and creates a warm, welcoming atmosphere, chef Esra Acar Koç breathes new life into Turkish classics in the kitchen. ‘Our menu showcases traditional Turkish recipes, including those passed down from our grandmothers, and innovative creations that may surprise even those familiar with Turkish cuisine beyond its renowned kebabs and döner.’ Börek (crispy filo pastry parcels with spinach and Beyaz Peynir, a white brine cheese) gets an eggs Benedict spin with poached eggs, thick garlicky yoghurt and chilli pepper butter. Acar Koç also does a tahini take on cinnamon buns, covers carrot cake with orange-zested mascarpone cream and tops her baked cheesecake with kataifi (crunchy shredded filo) and pistachio cream. Tip: there are also amazing meze spreads and regular pop-up events.

DE CLERCQSTRAAT 128, INSTAGRAM.COM/BELLY.PEPPER

For Anatolian essentials such as közlenmis biber (flame-roasted peppers, €3.50), head to Genco Versmarkt.

VAN WOUSTRAAT 164

Şerifoglu Café & Patisserie

This family-run temple of syrup-soaked sugar rushes has been open since 1990 and is one of the most respected Turkish patisseries in Amsterdam. It still offers the best selection of crispy baklava and other traditional Turkish pastries in town. The fistikli baklavas with pistachios are the classic choice. But there are also many other options, including crunchy kadayif (fine dough threads with syrup and walnuts), midye (a mussel-shaped filo pastry filled with pistachios) and söbiyet (a filo pastry with nuts and creamy kaymak filling), as well as sweet and savoury kurabiye (Turkish biscuits) and Izmir bombasi (molten chocolate-filled biscuits). If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the trays coming fresh out of the oven, still steaming and impossible to resist. Come hungry, leave buzzing on a sugar high. Tip: if you don’t have a sweet tooth, pop in for the daily breakfast buffet, featuring olives, eggs, cheeses, salads, crispy bread and Turkish tea.

SLOTERMEERLAAN 115, SERIFOGLU.NL

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Esra

This wonderful little restaurant marks the Amsterdam debut of London-born chef Selin Kiazim and her Dutch partner Steph de Goeijen, former pioneers of Turkish cuisine in London at Oklava. You may have also seen Kiazim on the BBC’s Great British Menu as the dessert course winner in the show’s 2017 finale. At Esra, the duo brings Kiazim’s Turkish-Cypriot heritage to life through warm hospitality and a seasonal menu that evolves weekly and features local ingredients, Mediterranean wines, raki and cocktails. Dishes such as whipped feta crostini with candied pumpkin, köfte stuffed with Remeker cheese, slow-cooked lamb neck tandir and aromatic poached pears with sumac pecan crumble blend Turkish traditions with global influences and years working alongside the godfather of fusion cuisine, Peter Gordon. So is it worth the journey out to the Eastern Docklands? You bet! C. VAN EESTERENLAAN 35, ESRA.AMSTERDAM

Effendy

Choose from various styles of lahmacun (a crispy pizza-like wrap filled with minced beef, vegetables and melted cheese, spinach and feta, lamb kebab and other toppings) at this popular Jordaan bakery in a former Jesuit church.

ROZENGRACHT 148

INSTAGRAM.COM/EFFENDYLAHMACUNCAFE

Pulitzer’s Bar

Prefer pistachio in liquid form? Thanks to a collab with cult New York fragrance house D.S. & Durga, the new menu at Pulitzer’s Bar translates fragrance into flavour. The result? The Pistachio (€20), inspired by the brand’s bestselling gourmand fragrance, is the stand-out serve.

PRINSENGRACHT 323

PULITZERAMSTERDAM.COM

Buurt Superman

From homemade sucuk (garlicky spiced sausage) and rib-eye pastirma (air-dried cured beef) to dolmas/sarmas (stuffed vegetable leaves), shashlik (grilled meat skewers), köfte (meatballs) and more, you’ll find it all at this beloved Turkish supermarket.

Nemo

FIZEAUSTRAAT 17

Top Tips

This complete glass matcha starter set (€55) contains everything you need to make matcha at home.

MOYCHAY.NL

Magnificent Matcha

Matcha lattes, iced matchas, lavender matchas, strawberry and cream matchas – Amsterdam is riding the matcha wave.

Lera Matcha

This famed matcha café has the Instagrammable aesthetic down to a T: its sleek stainless-steel interior is simply begging to be photographed. It’s an undeniably beautiful spot, but the quality of its matcha is what keeps locals coming back. With matcha powder from the volcanic Kyushu island region in Japan, Lera’s brews are all about tradition paired with cool modern edge.

FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 146 LERAMATCHA.COM

Oficina

Oficina, located in the city’s West, is a canteen-style café run by friends-turnedbusiness partners Zana Josipovic and Naiara Sabandar. With top-tier matcha powder sourced from the Uji region in Japan, get ready to indulge with their matcha white chocolate cookie, or tuck into their legendary matcha-infused soft serve.

JAN VAN GALENSTRAAT 147 OFICINAOFICINA.COM

Tea Stories

Tea Stories pulls you in with its mint-green facade and its promise of vegan teas and lattes. From velvety pumpkinspice lattes to punchy lavender matchas, these carefully concocted drinks are made by attentive baristas. If you’ve worked up an appetite, try one of their soft and gooey Japanese matcha mochis alongside your drink.

HAARLEMMERDIJK 122 GOODTEASTORIES.COM

Teahouse Moychuy

Step into this unassuming spot on the Rozengracht and you’ll find yourself immersed in a world of zen (and matcha). This beautifully ornate tea house boasts an extensive menu and mindful tea ceremonies. The best part? Located on a busy street in the middle of the bustling Jordaan neighbourhood, with just one step inside, the noise melts away.

ROZENGRACHT 92 MOYCHAY.NL

At 26, Yves van der Hoff became Amsterdam’s youngest head chef, blending Dutch terroir, Michelin-level precision and a flair for narrative.

Fine Dining

Time Travel

Enjoy a masterclass in modern Dutch fine dining in Amsterdam’s oldest dining room at De Silveren Spiegel.

Dining at De Silveren Spiegel is like stepping into a Rembrandt painting, before being jolted awake by a bold young chef rewriting the rules. While the beautiful 17th-century building creaks with history and period detail, what lands on the plate is anything but old-fashioned. Chef Yves van der Hoff leads a spirited young brigade, turning locally sourced ingredients into poised, intelligent dishes using the latest gourmet techniques. This sharp contrast of grandeur and forward-thinking food makes the experience

memorable and quite unique (5-course menu €115). Expect dishes that spotlight Zeeland’s coastal bounty with kingfish, razor clam, oysters and salted vegetables, sharpened by jalapeño and horseradish. Or celebrate the richness of Dutch dairy in a dessert presented on a pillow with Lindenhoff whole milk ice cream, almond sponge cake and a honey crisp. With an award-winning wine list and polished, pretence-free service, it’s a formula that’s sure to stand the test of time..

KATTENGAT 4-6, DESILVERENSPIEGEL.COM

Explore unique culinary experiences at Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht.

Chef-led fine dining at Renvy, or relaxed bites and drinks at Prins & Aap.

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

Dam Life

AHigh Meets Low

From yoga in the botanical gardens to martial art classes in a museum, our columnist Lauren looks for inspiration in the most unexpected places.

few years ago, when the city was reopening after long COVID-19 lockdowns, Amsterdam’s cultural institutions held a remarkable day of protests meant to highlight the hypocrisy that museums, concert halls and other places frequented by culture vultures were to remain closed while beauty salons and gyms were given the green light to reopen. For one day only, the Van Gogh Museum was transformed into a barber shop and nail salon, while the Royal Concertgebouw saw people getting trims to its orchestra’s rendition of Charles Ives’ Symphony No.2.

Although many attendees went for the novelty instead of the protests, it got me thinking: maybe people just enjoy working out and practising personal hygiene in grandiose settings? Maybe human nature leans towards going about mundane daily life in spectacular Old World splendour?

I became slightly obsessed with the possibility of a new hybrid world where high art meets more lowbrow pursuits: a dedicated workout space in a museum, a massage room in a theatre. There must be ways to protect both art and patrons (and add an additional revenue stream to a perennially struggling sector). All it took was a little thinking outside the frame.

That world hasn’t completely arrived, but there are several ways to enjoy somewhat mundane pursuits in the city’s temples of high culture. As I write this, I’m eagerly awaiting my yoga class in the city’s Hortus botanical gardens. While that programme fades away annually with the summer’s last rays, the Van Gogh Museum has taken up the mantel, offering monthly yoga classes as part of its Open up with Vincent mental health programme, based on the artist’s own troubled life. Also at the Van Gogh Museum is its Vincent

on Friday programme, where you can enjoy an evening of DJs, dance, workshops and live performances on a starry night. The Wereldmuseum Amsterdam will also be holding a dance party on 6 December. And why not check out the monthly Loving Room Concerts and Open Mic Nights at the historic public library (OBA) on Roelof Hartplein, or take in a mega-candlelit concert at the 17th-century (and still unelectrified) Portuguese Synagogue? I look forward to the day when I cannot only peruse its books, but attend a book club at the Rijksmuseum’s stately Cuypers Library or attend trivia nights at the DeLaMar theatre instead of my local pub. Until that day arrives, I’ll enjoy what’s on offer, including playing the free piano located in the majestic Cantral Station’s main hall. Because what can make commuting more grandiose than a quick stop on a grand piano?

Top Tips

Mexican patisserie by day, mezcaleria and cocktail bar by night, the candlelit terracotta-toned Tula Cantina hits it home any time of day.

SCHAAFSTRAAT 4B

INSTAGRAM.COM/TULA.CANTINA

Mexican Fiesta

Whether you’re chasing street-style tacos or serious limited-edition mezcal, these Mexican spots in Amsterdam deliver fiery flavour with zero sombrero kitsch.

Oaxaca

Named after Mexico’s culinary capital, this 135-seater champions authentic flavours (from €55 for a 5-course lunch). Crab tacos and cochinita pibil (pulled pork) tacos are must-orders. Guacamole made fresh at the table is topped with Chicatan ants and served with tortilla chips and chicharrón (pork crackling). Don’t miss the mezcaleria, offering 32 varieties of the smoky spirit.

SPUISTRAAT 239 OAXACAAMSTERDAM.NL

Coba Taqueria

Every detail matters in this cosy, candlelit space in Noord, where friendly staff dish out tasty food and firstrate cocktails, from creative riffs such as tacos de lengua with beef tongue, ceviche de lubina tostadas with sea urchin and cured egg yolk, and pork-neck and pineapple taco pastor. There’s also an impressive mezcal selection.

SCHAAFSTRAAT 4 COBA-TAQUERIA.COM

Madre

This vibrant Mexican offers a plant-based dining experience in a stylish setting. Pop in for the recently launched Saturday brunch (from €30), which includes birria quesatacos with 3D-printed ‘pork’ in a smoky broth, gordita de picadillo (a corn pastry stuffed with mushrooms with a mezcal-spiked salsa borracha) and spicy margaritas.

WESTERSTRAAT 186 MADRE.AMSTERDAM

Local Dealer

This is your friendly Mexican food fix in Oost. With a punchy pink-and-yellow interior and cheeky neon, it’s part market canteen, part mood-booster, slinging good vibes, killer cocktails and seriously good food (tasting menu €40). Whether you’re craving crispchewy chicharrones (pork belly cubes), Baja California shrimp tacos or tuna tostadas, this dealer delivers the goods.

DAPPERPLEIN 23

LOCALDEALER.NL

Interior designer Elèn Letort has transformed a former industrial warehouse into an airy space featuring an open kitchen, DJ booth and statement designer pieces.

Post-industrial Dining

Head to Amsterdam’s emerging Schinkel District for refined, contemporary European fare served in a minimalist setting at Bennies.

Once the hottest pop-up in town, chef Rick Swinkels’ latest baby has established itself in this trendy former industrial area, sharing the street with a local rum distillery and an East-African speciality coffee roaster. Avoid the tourists and mingle with the city’s creative crowd in a space that effortlessly transitions from leisurely lunches and dinners to lively evenings with DJs and aperitif vibes. The cuisine is ingredientdriven, confident and occasionally surprising,

such as raw gamba roja tartare swimming in creamy tahini with fennel pickle and lime. Or skate wing with Dutch shrimps, salted cod, cauliflower and sake. Service strikes the perfect balance between relaxed and professional, while the extensive wine list, favouring natural and biodynamic varieties, elevates the experience. Walk-ins are welcome, making Bennie’s an inviting spot any time of day.

HELICOPTERSTRAAT 28 BENNIESRESTAURANT.NL

Best Broodjes

For 45 years, the broodje pom (€6.20) with chicken and baked pomtayer (a tropical root vegetable), has been a must-order at Tjin’s, a Surinamese sandwich specialist.

VAN WOUSTRAAT 17, TJINS.NL

Sandwich Culture

In Amsterdam, sandwiches aren’t just a utensilfree lunch. They’re a lifestyle. Forget the sad ham and cheese on white; here’s why everyone gleefully eats with both hands here.

Across the city, a new breed of sandwich shop is dominating TikTok feeds and winning hearts. They’re dishing out sourdough kimchi toasties, overstuffed sandos and schiacciata worth queuing for. But Amsterdam’s love of a good broodje (‘sandwich’) isn’t new. This city has been slapping things on bread for centuries. In the 1600s, it was stilllife-worthy hunks of bread and cheese that practically begged for a nibble. By 1900, Jewish butchers and fishmongers were serving their goods on rolls to eat on the go. Sandwich spots boomed, with rhyming names such as Sneetje van Keetje and Kadetje van Jetje,

welcoming everyone from labourers and theatre-goers to tipsy bar-hoppers. By 1958, postwar population decline had dimmed the glory days, but the belegde broodje (loaded sandwich) was still considered so quintessential that Amsterdam sent it to represent the city at the World Expo in Brussels. Now, impossibly popular spots such as Fort Negen, Chun Café, Zero Zero, Breadwinner and Ranchi are applying serious kitchen skills to what was once mere lunchbox filler. It’s food as a craft, but it’s still meant to be eaten with your hands. So yes, you’ll pay €12 and wait 20 minutes. But that’s the price of edible art, apparently.

Slagerij Vet’s broodje halfom (€4.95), a Yiddish-Dutch deli combo of liver and salt beef, served on a crisp white roll, has been a hit with the hungry hordes on the Zeedijk since 1955.

ZEEDIJK 99, SLAGERIJVET.NL

Davie’s

For the city’s best pastrami sandwich (€14), head to the Jordaan, where chef David Baxter uses beef from Dutch milk cows for a more marbled (and thus far more flavourful) alternative to traditional brisket. The short rib is brined with herbs and spices for a week, then slow-cooked for 36 hours before being generously layered between slices of marbled sourdough rye with English mustard and homemade pickles.

TWEEDE LELIEDWARSSTRAAT 13 DAVIESAMSTERDAM.COM

Rosèl

Sink your teeth into the signature warm Dutch achterham (deli ham) sandwich (€12) at this next-gen sandwich shop. It’s a love letter to pork, layered with guanciale compote and a zippy mustard mayo. The menu is tight, the ingredients local, and the vibe? Pure precision. Housed in a converted garage in Centrum, the custom-built interior nods to vintage Porsche design, complete with a sleek wine red counter and marble floors. It’s a pit stop worth making.

SPUISTRAAT 214, ROSELAMSTERDAM.COM

Bonjour Càphê

For some of the city’s best banh mi, head to this popular floating spot in the Houthavens. Vietnam-born owner Kevin Le finds inspiration in the food he misses from home to create unexpected twists on tradition. Choose from seven varieties, from the Saigon classic thit nuong (BBQ pork skewer, €15) to cá mòi (tomato-simmered sardines, €15), a light, bright street-food version you probably won’t find anywhere else in Amsterdam. MOERMANSKADE 4 BONJOURCAPHE.COM

Davie’s

Bonjour Càphê

Rosél

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What’s on

Where to go and what to see

BY: TOM FLANAGAN, VERITY SEWARD, JAY FRELINK

32 Feature: Tilda Swinton

34 Exhibitions

38 On Screen

39 On a Budget

40 On Stage

42 Pop & Rock

43 Classical & Jazz

44 Feminine DJs at ADE

51 Family & Kids

52 Clubbing

53 Design Route

What happens if animals took over the art world?

That’s what you’ll find at Art Zoo, where the 17thcentury canal house known as the Cromhouthuizen lets you into a universe where (taxidermied) animals rule. Here, salmon-coloured birds perch atop a towering T-rex skull, and vibrantly beaked toucans cast their gaze across the room at large, but thankfully not over wriggling snakes.

HERENGRACHT 368, ARTZOO.COM

It’s Amsterdam’s birthday. The logo shown below indicates an event is part of the celebrations.

Art Zoo

Exhibition

32 | BY: TOM FLANAGAN

Tilda and her Friends

The Eye Filmmuseum’s newest exhibition spotlights the career of Oscar-winning actress Tilda Swinton and the friends who have made it all worthwhile.

Across from Central Station, the Eye Filmmuseum crests the IJ River; an ice-white, unconventional and angular presence that has become an iconic architectural highlight of Amsterdam’s waterfront. It’s perhaps fitting then that it will play host to a major figure in film, similarly glacial in aesthetic and iconic in cinematic contributions: Tilda Swinton.

This autumn, Tilda Swinton – Ongoing arrives on Amsterdam’s northern shores. It’s a first-ever retrospective of the British actress’ expansive career and the collaborators who have made it happen. ‘Eye has given me the opportunity to reflect on the mechanics of my working practice over the past 40 years,’ says Swinton in a statement with Eye. ‘And to come to rest on the – ever present – bedrock and battery of the close fellowships I found from the very first and continue to rely upon to this day.’

Endless muse

Swinton is something of a bonafide legend in cinema, as much known for her enigmatic blockbuster roles – such as the White Witch in The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe or as general counsel to George Clooney in

Michael Clayton, her Oscar-winning role –as she is for deeper cuts; think the out-ofcontrol alcoholic in Julia or the vampire romantic in Only Lovers Left Alive. But it’s her collaborations that have been as enticing, her eye for directorial talent carving out work with the likes of directors Pedro AlmodÓvar, Luca Guadagnino and the late Jim Jarmusch. It’s what makes her such a fascinating subject and one worthy of her own exhibition, explains Bregtje van der Haak, artistic director at Eye Filmmuseum.

‘She represents the love of film in the broadest sense,’ says Van der Haak. ‘From Narnia to lesser-known independent films, she symbolises transformation and what it means to make something and develop a shared language in doing so.’

Film friendships

For Eye, it’s rare for an actor to be the subject of an exhibition – which typically focus on artists and filmmakers – let alone be given carte blanche to curate the showcase. But the novelty of this is testament to Swinton’s career, having worked in close to 90 films, and her generosity in including others.

‘There will be six new works by her crea-

tive friends as well as archival footage of a young Tilda. I think what will be special is the recreation of the apartment she lived in with Joanna Hogg [a British director and close collaborator of Swinton’s]’, says Van der Haak.

There’s also a tribute to the late artist and filmmaker Derek Jarman, who gave Swinton her first film role in Caravaggio and whose queer film community became family to her. Beyond that, there will be a live performance in the opening week curated by fashion historian Olivier Saillard, with Swinton unpacking costumes from her career, plus live conversations with collaborating directors such as AlmodÓvar, Guadagnino and Apichatpong Weerasethakul.

The entire exhibition is an endless showcase of Swinton, her multidisciplinary oeuvre and the people who have inspired her along the way. It’s the latter that Swinton hopes people will remember, says Van der Haak. ‘I was leaving the museum one night after dinner and Tilda said to me: “What I really hope is that people will walk out [of the exhibition] and realise they can make films with their friends too”.’

FROM 28 SEPTEMBER, EYEFILM.NL

Glimpse intimate portraits of Tilda Swinton at her family home by Tim Walker, in a photo series connecting the actress to her roots.

Exhibitions

Oceanista

The sea has long been a source of inspiration, for fashion designers too. The National Maritime Museum’s newest exhibition is dedicated to just that: maritime fashion. Dubbed Oceanista, this watery tour takes you through the designs of giants such as Chanel, Iris van Herpen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Thom Browne, revealing how the sea shapes fashion through materials, silhouettes and symbolism. It also explores how designers use these influences to unpack themes such as sustainability and what it means to reconcile expression with climate consciousness. FROM 10 OCTOBER

HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.COM

Karel Martens: Unbound

Brazilian Soul

Dutch graphic designer Karel Martens takes centre stage at the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam with a blockbuster exhibition. One of the Netherlands’ most important graphic designers and best known for his idiosyncratic style, this showcase takes views through Martens’ expansive oeuvre of work; from books and typography to stamps, telephone cards and even wallpaper.

UNTIL 26 OCTOBER, STEDELIJK.NL

Brazilian Soul is a vibrant collaboration between São Paulo’s renowned NaLata street art festival and Straat Museum, a colossal former warehouse in Amsterdam Noord dedicated entirely to urban art and graffiti. You’ll be amazed at the large-scale works by Brazilian artists such as Enivo, Mag Magrela and Deco Treco, capturing Brazil’s urban art scene’s dynamic energy and cultural richness.

UNTIL 31 OCTOBER

STRAATMUSEUM.COM

illustration as an art form: catch the work of ten illustrators giving their view on Amsterdam as city of fashion at Amsterdam Modestad

UNTIL 28 SEPTEMBER

ILOVEILLUSTRATIONGALLERY.COM

Kishio Suga: Where Both Sides Meet

Museum Cobra has a long history of innovative and experimental art and its latest showcase is no different. This autumn, Cobra presents the groundbreaking works of Kishio Suga, a key figure of the minimalist Mono-ha movement, which focuses on the relationship between materials and their environment. A pioneer in postwar Japanese art, Suga’s installations – often custom-made for the space in which they are displayed – and video recordings look to show how everything is interconnected.

PAN Amsterdam

Since its foundation in 1987, this annual art fair has built a reputation for its friendly atmosphere and opportunities to meet some of the industry’s best art dealers. Whether your interest lies in classical antiquity, photography, contemporary art or designer furniture, you’ll make surprising discoveries. There are even archaeological objects on offer, as well as some stunning Asian art, including Japanese woodblock prints.

2-9 NOVEMBER, PAN.NL

Josephine Baker: A Life of Resistance

From Parisian star to secret agent, Josephine Baker was quite the woman. Discover the legendary African-American entertainer, civil rights activist and World War II spy at the Dutch Resistance Museum, which is dedicated to stories of courage and defiance. Featuring rare photos, archival footage and her iconic banana-skirt performance, the exhibition also explores her lasting influence in popular culture, from Beyoncé to high fashion.

UNTIL 9 NOVEMBER

VERZETSMUSEUM.ORG

UNTIL 31 OCTOBER, COBRA-MUSEUM.NL When you see this little card, you get free access with your I amsterdam City Card: iamsterdam.com/citycard

Huis Marseille

25th ANNIVERSARY

This year, Huis Marseille, Amsterdam’s first photography museum, celebrates its 25th anniversary with Memento. Photography, interrupted. Showing more than 100 contemporary masterpieces from its rich collection, all displayed in an unconventional and monumental manner, the works reflect 25

years of developments in photography, visual culture and societal change. The show includes work by renowned photographers such as Thomas Struth, Andreas Gursky and Deana Lawson, as well as emerging talents like Jamie Hawkesworth and Tyler Mitchell. UNTIL 12 OCTOBER, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

Delve into Russian-French artist Ossip Zadkine ’s world of modern sculpture and mythicism with Museum Jan’s exhibition Man, Myth & Metamorphosis

9 NOVEMBER

At Home in the 17th Century

The Rijksmuseum’s new exhibition promises a glimpse into Dutch domestic life during the 17th century. Through nine diorama-style displays you can explore the daily routines of families, from morning to night. You’ll see real household objects, including the renowned dollhouses of Petronella Oortman and Petronella Dunois. The experience also brings to life the interiors and personal stories behind the art of painters Rembrandt and Vermeer. FROM 17 OCTOBER, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

Women of the Amsterdam School

Featuring rarely seen works, from textiles and ceramics to graphic art and architecture, vibrant exhibition Unknown Talent: Women of the Amsterdam School highlights pioneers such as Margaret Kropholler, the Netherlands’ first female architect, graphic artist Tine Baanders and sculptor Louise Beijerman. FROM 26 SEPTEMBER, HETSCHIP.NL

Amsterdam in Motion

Amsterdam Museum’s newest project offers a magnificent view of, and on, the city.

This October, a very special new cultural attraction opens in honour of Amsterdam’s 750th birthday. Enter Amsterdam in Motion, an immersive city experience that tells the story of the Dutch capital in a way it’s never been told before. At the heart of the experience is the world’s largest multimedial maquette of a city where past, present and future converge courtesy of stunning projections and animations, plus an immersive sound system. The experience,located in the Westergasterrein, begins with a visual show, where the 200m² model comes to life, taking you through the history of

Amsterdam: a journey through time, from the village in 1275 to the city of today, as well as developments that will impact the future. Afterwards, you can head deeper into the space and explore the section that features stories of Amsterdam: delve into metropolitan themes such as living in the city, new fashion, smart innovation, protest and stories of migration. By engaging with the city of Amsterdam as it is today and will be tomorrow, you’ll discover how a city evolves and changes, and what you, inhabitant or visitor, can add to this yourself. FROM OCTOBER AMSTERDAMINMOTION.NL

On Screen

Keep the Japanese spirit going at Melkweg Cinema with classic Night on the Galactic Railroad, an adaptation of Kenji Miyazawa’s 1934 fantasy novel. 11 OCTOBER, MELKWEG.NL 38 | LIGHTS, CAMERA…

Film Festivals

Amsterdam has it all when it comes to film festivals, and autumn is the very best time if you want to catch a good one. Imagine Film Festival transforms the capital into a playground for the fantastic, showcasing bold genre films, from fantasy and sci-fi to horror and anime. Meanwhile, the International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam (IDFA) returns for 12 days of powerful storytelling as the world’s largest documentary film festival. Or add some drama to your cinema experience with the West Beach Film Festival, set against the scenic Sloterplas in Nieuw-West.

30 OCTOBER-9 NOVEMBER, IMAGINEFILMFESTIVAL.NL | 13-23 NOVEMBER, IDFA.NL | 17-21 SEPTEMBER, WESTBEACHFILMFESTIVAL.COM

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iamsterdaminstagram.com/ for cultural highlights and local tips on what to do and see.

Camera Japan

Camera Japan returns to LAB111 this October, celebrating the rich diversity of Japanese cinema. As the largest Japanese fi lm festival in the Benelux, it attracts thousands of visitors with a vibrant mix of arthouse, animation, LGBTQI+ and classic fi lms. Beyond the screen, the festival offers a deep-dive into Japanese culture through visual arts, music, dance and cuisine. With 19 carefully curated fi lms and related events, it’s an immersive journey into the many faces of Japan.

2-5 OCTOBER, CAMERAJAPAN.NL

Cinema The Pulse

A fresh addition to Amsterdam’s Zuidas district, Cinema The Pulse is nestled in the striking, sustainable Pulse of Amsterdam complex. Showing test screenings until its official opening in October, the cinema offers nine screening spaces, from cosy 20-seat on-demand rooms to grand auditoriums for up to 800 guests. Curated with care, the programming blends blockbusters, arthouse gems and cult favourites.

CINEMATHEPULSE.EU

Need a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and a place to entertain the kids? At De Gliphoeve petting zoo you can feed the animals alongside the zoo’s caretakers every day between 3.30 and 4 pm.

KINDERBOERDERIJGLIPHOEVE.NL

On a Budget

Street art

Amsterdam’s Noord and Nieuw-West districts are home to special, designated areas where graffiti is legal. Here, local and international artists create open-air museums around which you can walk freely and enjoy the rapidly changing street art of this city. And if you want to learn more about the history of street art, take a self-guided tour by Street Art Museum Amsterdam.

STREETARTMUSEUMAMSTERDAM.COM

Markets of Amsterdam

Markets are a great way to discover the city on a budget. They give an insight into the tastes of the average local, while also taking you to parts of the city that you might otherwise miss. Take the Dappermarkt in Oost: this market is a bit off the beaten path, but its mix of local produce, notably fresh fish, and deals on everyday items is worth the trip in full.

Organ Concerts

What is the closest thing to actual time travel? Probably a concert on an original 17th-century organ in one of Amsterdam’s oldest churches. Prize-winning organists perform music of the time in which the organ was built, with the stunning Nieuwe Kerk as their decor. Get lost in the past and recharge yourself for the present.

9 SEPTEMBER, 14 OCTOBER & 11 NOVEMBER, NIEUWEKERK.NL

On Stage

The best of Africa takes centre stage at the Afrovibes festival. The theme this year is ‘Legacy’, where the performers ask themselves: What world are we building for future generations? Expect dance, theatre, spoken word and even video performances from South Africa, Ivory Coast and Cape Verde, as well as from Dutch members of the African diaspora. 2-12 OCTOBER, AFROVIBES.NL

AfroVibes

Operetta Land

Comedy nights at Vice Versa

This world is plagued by the evil king Pygmalion, who seeks to end the joys of music and dance. Can his rule be broken? Well, everything is possible in Operetta Land. Combining music from several different operettas, the show creates an enchanting world with music at its heart.

5-23 OCTOBER, OPERABALLET.NL

Vice Versa combines two key ingredients for a great night out: drinks and laughs. They organise open mics, sketch comedy nights, or performances by Amsterdam’s brightest comedic talent. There’s always something to chuckle at, even if their grand selection of cocktails and craft beers is no laughing matter. Check their Instagram for the latest timetable.

INSTAGRAM.COM/VICEVERSA020

Join Circus on the Block, where awardwinning circus performers turn the streets into a stage through life-sized decors and performances full of joy.

12 SEPTEMBER-5 OCTOBER

CIRCUSAROUNDTHEBLOCK.NL

NTF & Fringe

Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake

Swan Lake, but with men only? Choreographer Matthew Bourne’s unique reinterpretation of Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet breaks with dancing tradition by exchanging its all-female cast for a completely male one. It put him on the map as the most groundbreaking choreographer of his time. Over the past 30 years, it has become one of the most successful dance productions ever. For two weeks only, Carré is hosting this one-of-akind performance.

29 OCTOBER-9 NOVEMBER, CARRE.NL

Every year, Nederlands Theater Festival (NTF) kicks off the Dutch theatre season starting in September. Over the course of 11 days, it presents the best and brightest of the past season with industry experts from across the region handpicking the theatre and comedy to pay attention to. And while NTF looks to the past year, sister festival Fringe looks to the future. With more than 220 performances across 22 locations, discover all the up-and-coming talent the country has to offer.

4-14 SEPTEMBER, TF.NL, AMSTERDAMFRINGEFESTIVAL.NL

Imagine a near future, where a right-wing, democratically elected government slowly moves the state into autocratic territory. One mother tries her best to protect her four children from the traps of this new reality, plagued by unforeseen powers she cannot resist. How far is she willing to go to protect her family? This theatre rendition of Paul Lynch’s award-winning novel Prophet Song is an analysis of our time that feels scarily realistic.

FROM 12 NOVEMBER, ITA.NL

Pop & Rock

Prepare for a welcome musical ‘Murder on the Dancefloor’ with the UK’s resident disco queen, Sophie Ellis Bextor. 26 SEPTEMBER, PARADISO.NL

Loyle Carner

Sentimental and sultry, Benjamin Gerard Coyle-Larner, aka Loyle Carner, has always charted a distinctive road in hip-hop. Known for his jazz and alt-fused sound that blends nostalgia with confession, his special softness has never been clearer than on his latest LP Hopefully!. Catch him at AFASLive this October when he’ll make a concert hall feel like it’s just you and him at home, hopefully.

10-11 OCTOBER, AFASLIVE.NL

tella M

Greece’s musical output has been world-class for a while now. And tella (pronounced ‘Stella’) is just the latest artist to go international, courtesy of breakout hit ‘Charmed’. The Athenian’s dreamy electronica and vintage pop sounds are a perfect soundtrack for a languid late summer running into autumn, wherever you are.

1 OCTOBER, PARADISO.NL

Oklou

French artist Oklou has had a big year. Just off the back of releasing her debut album Choke Enough – a gorgeous, hypnotic listen of hyper- and bedroom pop – she’s now on a global tour, her star well and truly on the rise. One for the Y2K purists, Oklou presents a synth lover’s fever dream wrapped up in contemporary cool. Expect this to be a dream you won’t want to wake from. 19 NOVEMBER, MELKWEG.NL

Scores from celebrated horror films get a chilling orchestral makeover at The Concertgebouw’s Halloween Classics at the Movies

28 OCTOBER, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

Jazz Thursdays at Volkshotel

The Volkshotel has earned a reputation for excellent programming and curation, and Jazz Thursdays are just one example of that. Every Thursday, jazz music sifts through the lobby as onlookers grab a drink and unwind. It’s a great predinner event or before you head to their onsite club Doka – and better yet, it’s free of charge.

EVERY THURSDAY, VOLKSHOTEL.NL

Concertgebouw Orchestra Opening Concert

Welcome in the new concert season in style with a free lakeside concert organised by the Concertgebouw Orchestra. After previous editions at Dam Square, Westerpark, NDSM Wharf and Nelson Mandela Park, this year the Orchestra settles on the banks of the Sloterplas. On this Opening Night, expect a celebration of Nieuw-West, Amsterdam and its 750th birthday.

12 SEPTEMBER, CONCERTGEBOUWORKEST.NL

Classical & Jazz KOHA

There aren’t many things better than open-air music, and KOHA (Klassiek op het Amstelveld) classical music festival is a reminder of why. Organised in the Amstelveld square, just moments from Rembrandtplein, this is a celebration of young classical music talent. Grab a drink and a bite from the vendors nearby (though you’re welcome to bring your own) and a seat at one of the long tables – and the sound of the violins will do the rest.

19-20 SEPTEMBER, KLASSIEKOPHETAMSTELVELD.NL

Interview

BY: CALLUM MCLEAN

AMSTERDAM DJ s ON THE RISE

Feminine Frequencies

This is a man’s world, and club culture is no exception. But things are changing, and with ADE returning in October, we talk to two very different local DJs about their life in the scene.

It’s easy today to forget that club culture evolved from the fringes. At Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE), it’s celebrated annually as a global, mainstream industry. But many of the artists playing there this October still

hold true to their roots. We speak to two local heroes shaking up the boys club: Grace Dahl and Sammie aka Slimfit – each representing different shades of the dance music underground.

Catch Grace Dahl and Slimfit at ADE events this October. Check the website for the full programme.

22-26 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL

Grace Dahl grew up in Amsterdam with parents of Finnish and Hungarian heritage. Her high-energy techno has found a home at increasingly prestigious events worldwide, in numerous sets at Berlin’s notorious club Berghain, the star-making Boiler Room and – very personal for her – Amsterdam’s Awakenings festival.

Grace, it sounds like it’s been a busy couple of years for you – what was the turning point where things really started heating up?

‘Honestly, every single weekend I’m a bit like, “What the…??” I arrived in Singapore recently for a gig, and there were fans at the airport waiting to get an autograph. That’s crazy! I’ve been DJing for more than 10 years, and I think it’s been an accumulation of building a strong fan base through my sets with [local event series & label] Vault Sessions. That was the foundation to be able to really catapult to where I am now.’

What’s your relationship to Amsterdam like, now that you spend so much time playing internationally?

‘I actually love Amsterdam more and more. The more I travel, the happier I am to come back. I miss the smallness of it, the walkability, the picturesqueness, the cuteness. And I also like the Dutch

attitude – which, really, in this city is an attitude from all over the world.’

What’s special about the nightlife here in particular?

‘I talk about this a lot: I think what’s special about the scene in Amsterdam – and the Netherlands – is the collaboration between promoters and artists. It’s in its own category. Clubs work together: they’ll even call each other to check they don’t book similar parties on the same night. It feels like a family on the dance floor. Plus, I find clubbers here are often smiling, which you don’t get everywhere: in other places I sometimes get looks, like, “Why is this b**** so happy??”’

How did you first get into techno?

‘I was quite literally born into it. My parents were both underground ravers: techno promoters in the ’90s in Budapest and then in Marbella, and my dad was a DJ. I always tell the story of how my mum would sleep under the DJ booth when Dad was playing, while she was seven months pregnant with me. Even after I was born, they were into it with pure passion – to the point where I’m not sure it was healthy [laughs]. But I took my own path. At first, I was into punk, hard rock, the whole emo thing you do as a teenager. Later, I got into drum and bass – my first connection with electronic dance music. The real lightbulb moment was at Awakenings in the Gashouder in Westerpark: techno just clicked for me there.’

What was your first gig?

‘Well, now that I was interested, I went to DJ School Amsterdam at 17. Shortly after,

Hello, I’m A’DAM - a tower of many talents. A place where you can eat, work, rave, sleep. Repeat. 24/7, all under one roof. Ready to discover some of my stories? 24 hour vertical city

A’DAM LOOKOUT | 20th & 21st floor

Looking for the ultimate high? Visit my observation deck on top of the A’DAM Tower and enjoy my unrivaled panoramic view of Amsterdam, from the city center and its canals to the countryside.

‘Over the Edge’ Swing | 21st floor

For the daredevils and thrill seekers among us, I have this famous swing that dangles at 100 meters above the ground. Swing back and forth over the edge of the A’DAM Tower with Amsterdam under your feet!

Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam | 20th floor

During the day, the Panorama Restaurant is part of A’DAM LOOKOUT. But as soon as the sun goes down, the music goes up – and the Panorama Restaurant transforms into Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam: Amsterdam’s highest sky bar for casual dining and the best cocktails in town.

Revolving Restaurant Moon | 19th floor

Making a full rotation per hour, Restaurant Moon provides a truly unique gastronomic experience. Let us take you on a fascinating journey through flavors and aromas combined with a fantastic 360 panorama view of Amsterdam.

Shelter | Basement

My underground nightclub is located in the basement of the A’DAM Tower. Known for its Funktion-One sound system and high-tech LED-panel ceilings. Shelter’s iconic hatch is open every Friday and Saturday night from 23 till 6 am.

A’DAM VR | Basement

Descend into the underground A’DAM VR Game & Race Park and discover a world of boundless imagination filled with the most exclusive thrill-seeking simulation rides, sensational free-roaming shooters and exhilarating escape rooms.

‘The real lightbulb moment was at Awakenings: techno just clicked for me there’

my dad invited me to play with him at one of his resident nights at Club NL, now known as Nachbar.’

So was it immediate: are you a natural?

‘I can never relate when I hear people say, “It just happened to me, and now I’m a famous DJ”. No, when I was 17 I was immediately like, “This is what I’m going to do, and I’m going to make it happen, no matter what.” This was always a career for me: I approached it calculatedly and meticulously from the start. I was incredibly ambitious – delusionally ambitious.’

What has your experience been like developing your career as a woman?

‘To be honest, I never experienced it as a limitation, even though I’ve heard plenty of stories from female peers who experienced it differently. I got taken seriously from very early on because I sort of bulldozed myself in. I didn’t really give anyone the option to see me as “less than”. I was really keen on proving my skill not only to others but to myself. But I’m also happy to see this influx of women who feel more comfortable today entering this still quite maledominated field.’

Do you have any advice for newcomers wanting to party in Amsterdam?

Do your research, check online, check Reddit, see what you can expect – like, for example in Radion there are nights that

might be more nude than others. Some parties are more LGBTQI+-focused, so if you don’t want to be a part of that, don’t go. Plus, always understand you’re entering a space that has been carefully created: you’re a guest, so act like it.’

You play a wide range of genres and parties, but what can people expect from a typical set?

‘One thing that connects the variety of stuff I play is it’s very focused on the low-end. Of course, techno is already bass-focused, but for me I’m really listening to those frequencies, and I can tell from the fi rst few seconds if I’m going to like a track or not. But I play all kinds. I got one of the best compliments yesterday; they said, “I’ve seen you 15 times, and you never fail to surprise me.” If you come to see me, I can assure you each time will be different. But, in a nutshell, it’s gonna be techno at its purest – with some curveballs.’

See Grace Dahl on:

• 20 September at Tillatec AND DURING ADE :

• 24 October at Radion for LNR ADE (Local Nights Radion)

• 24 October at Radion for Further x Homeless Homies by DJ Bone

• 25 October at Into The Woods Festival

• 25 October at Vault Sessions at Der Hintergarten

that the women – and the femmes – who did play tended to incorporate this kind of masculinity in their presence or to tone themselves down. I wanted to add my own flavour.’

How did you do that?

Sammie Tjon Sien Foek (they/she), better known as Slimfit, is an Amsterdammer with Chinese and Creole heritage. They have become widely beloved not only for their joyous, genre-hopping DJing but also for their activism and community work – from their boycott and resistance group R.U.I.S. (Reimagining Us In Solidarity) to their own queer Amsterdam night The Planet.

Tell us: who is Slimfit and how are they different from Sammie?

‘Slimfit is an unstoppable myth: a genderless, outspoken and unapologetic character. A bold persona that I’ve constructed in order to motivate myself as a person better representing femmes [female-presenting people, often in queer contexts]. I felt like Amsterdam was lacking such a cultural figure when I started my career as a DJ and wanted to challenge a male-dominated field.’

What were these scenes like before Slimfit arrived?

‘Very masc[uline]. This was about eight years ago, when there were already a lot of great local female DJs, but what I was missing was the more extravagant show element. I was born and raised here, and Amsterdam will forever be my home, but I felt that it lacked this character: a feminine, entertaining and bold persona. I often went out to quite heterosexual spaces when I was younger, and I noticed

‘When I started out, I noticed a lot of cis men playing, a lot of tough guys – and I heard only 5% of music producers globally are women. I was so shocked, as I know there are so many talented women and femmes who needed a platform and to develop their skills. That’s why I started Alternative Planet FM [a radio show and FLINTA arts platform] with my friend Mila.

People often didn’t really take me seriously as a DJ because I have this bimbo presence during my DJ sets, but I’m also a nerd and I also produce music. I wanted to break this idea of femmes not being able to dive into musical practices and also to create a space where femmes can be without being harassed, assaulted or verbally abused.’

Can you explain the term FLINTA [an acronym, primarily used in Germany, that stands for ‘Frauen’ (Women), ‘Lesben’ (Lesbians), Inter, ‘Nichtbinär’ (Non-binary), Trans, and Agender people]? Why do some of your projects focus on this term rather than just ‘queer’ artists and spaces?

‘Unlike “queer”, the term FLINTA also includes (straight, cis) women: for me, it was important at first to put a particular focus on femmes. There is an ongoing debate around this, but I’ve used the term especially to shine a light on people who can be alienated by other jargon –though, I know, it’s another acronym.’

How did you get into electronic music and club culture?

‘When I was about 16, I used to lie about my age to get into clubs – I would pretend I was a tourist. I also worked

for a while as a go-go dancer. I worked on the door at Garage Noord and went out a lot there and in [the now closed club] De School, which is where I met my current community. I got into the queer scene as I got older and more in touch with my sexuality, and that’s what really got the ball rolling with my DJing and organising. My fi rst DJ alias was Mater Musicaie. (It’s Latin, I’m such a nerd.) But I had to come up with something better, super-last minute. I thought Slimfit worked: it made fun of this neoliberal fitness culture, back when quinoa was becoming trendy. Plus, it sounded quirky and weird, but also kind of c***y in a way. I started getting booked more and more, and things progressed from there.’

What kind of music or vibes might people hear in your sets?

‘I was recently told my set felt like a Surinamese garden party: it’s very joyous and warm, and there’s a lot of South American and Latin music – reggaeton, neo perreo, bachata, salsa – with Creole touches as well. It’s an uplifting mix with

now it’s normal to speak up about this. It’s defi nitely changed into a more queer, safer scene – thanks especially to local initiatives such as Los Angles (a trans-fortrans collective) and The Planet, which I’m involved with. Because of this new generation of artists who want to change things, organise and do grassroots work, the city can’t help but transform. There are so many new, nice spaces opening up, for both Amsterdammers and internationals – and new spaces for queer artists and audiences, which is a big plus. But even in some of these queer spaces, there’s not that much diversity, for example eth-

nically. There’s a lot of segregation here, prohibitively expensive tickets and issues with inequality and racism. All this really motivated me to participate and try to contribute to changing that – I feel a duty to try. There’s still a lot to be done.’

See Slimfit on:

• 12 September at Queer Gabber at Radion

• 1 October at Slimfit live at Cinetol

• 25 October at ADE: The Planet live (curated by Slimfit) at Murmur

• 26 October at ADE: ZeeZout

‘There are so many new, nice spaces opening up, for both Amsterdammers and internationals’

techno and hardcore that aligns with my complex cultural heritage. I prepare my sets very intuitively, channelling a lot of moods into a psychological journey, which people often describe as energetic, sexy, wild and emotional.’

You’re Amsterdam born and bred. How has the scene here changed over the years?

‘Things are much better today than when I was younger, when it was so common to experience harassment and assault –

Visit Artis’ Planetarium to expand your vision beyond our own atmosphere and learn about life among the stars from some of the city’s astronomical experts.

ARTIS.NL

What if there was an art installation that accommodates children, allowing parents to participate completely because they don’t need to keep an eye on the kids? De Appel has you covered as they look to rethink what behaviour is appropriate in a cultural environment. Artist Mercedes Azpilicueta uses sculptures and costumes for children to build an experience where children and adults can play an experience art together. 13 SEPTEMBER-23 NOVEMBER, DEAPPEL.NL

Council of the Raven

The Council of the Raven is a group of kids from across the world who have committed themselves to helping the climate. This interactive permanent exhibition at the Wereldmuseum Amsterdam focuses on their work. Discover how indigenous communities in Greenland, Peru, Morocco and Bangladesh cope with the climate crisis. Through personal stories and activities, kids can learn about the fragility of the Earth and the resilience of its people.

AMSTERDAM.WERELDMUSEUM.NL

Family & Kids

CacchHo CucchhA at De Appel Cinekid Film Festival

Every year, the Netherlands is home to the world’s largest festival for children’s film and media. The event takes place across 40 locations throughout the country, but the festival’s main location is Pathé cinema in Amsterdam’s Noord district. Over the course of two weeks, you can watch the latest films and series, join masterclasses, or head over to their MediaLab for games, VR experiences and workshops.

11-26 OCTOBER, CINEKID.NL

Clubbing

52 | DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY

Don’t miss a night out at Garage Noord, the Noord venue for buzzy techno, a curated programme of electronic acts on the rise, and a real underground feel.

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 40, GARAGENOORD.COM/CLUB

Find more tips and guides to Amsterdam’s party scene on iamsterdam.com/ clubbing

Amsterdam Dance Event, otherwise known as ADE, returns for its 30th anniversary. The artists, producers and players in electronic music all convene in Amsterdam for what’s

Disco Arabesquo

Middle-Eastern and African tunes take centre stage at one of Amsterdam’s hottest parties. Expect anything from Yamani Jams, Algerian Rai and Egyptian Mahraganat to Syrian Rhythms, Libyan Reggae and Khaliji tunes. Keep an eye on their socials as parties pop up sporadically. Either way, it’s time to get the pre-Christmas heat on. INSTAGRAM.COM/DISCOARAB

ADE 30 years

one of the world’s biggest celebrations of the genre. There’s no shortage of parties, talks and special events – think DJ sets in corner shops and pop-up raves on the ferry

– but choosing what to go to is the hardest part. Find the full programme on their website.

22-26 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL

Bops

Founded by Dutch-American DJ duo Evert Groot and Tom Morgan a few years ago, Bops (which loosely means ‘catchy pop song’ in slang) has become one of Amsterdam’s go-to queer parties for pop music. Reeling off a roster of high-octane tunes and house with a disco twist, Bops is a welcome tonic for those looking for an alternative to techno. A kaleidoscopic night of queer joy, come for the bops – stay for the crowd.

QUARTERLY, LINKTR.EE/BOPS.AMS

You can find all the participating studios and locations on glue.amsterdam

Create your own route along your favourites, or discover neighbourhood highlights.

Event

BY: VITA VAN DE SANDT

Connected by Design

Discover Amsterdam’s vibrant design scene this September when studios, galleries and showrooms open their doors to the public.

Amsterdam is a city of designers – from interior to product, it’s here that Dutch design is at its most innovative. Founded six years ago, the Glue design route aims to make the city’s design sector more visible and better connected. ‘Not everyone knows that the largest concentration of industrial and product designers in the Netherlands is found right here in Amsterdam,’ says co-founder Guus van Maarschalkerweerd. ‘With more than 26,000 people working in the design industry, our goal is to put the city fi rmly on the map as a design capital.’

During the four-day event, you can explore design studios, architectural fi rms, and private homes that are usually closed to the public. As you follow the design route by foot, bike or public transport, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes look at how design comes to life through talks, exhibitions such as Ecologies of Local

Colors [sic] at Waag Futurelab, and playful workshops such as ‘make your own cannoli’ at Smeg.

This year’s theme ‘Alternatives from the Unexpected’ highlights creative solutions from unexpected corners. Fittingly, the most exciting spots are located in the corners of the city. Head to the Houthavens in West, where you’ll fi nd Swiss furniture designer Vitra and the green innovation lab Het Groenlab. In the Eastern Docklands, Robuust hosts ten diverse exhibitions and blends newcomers with established names. Or take the ferry to Noord to peek inside interior designer Vanmokum’s studio and their exhibitions. And don’t miss one of this year’s highlights: the new hub at Museum ’t Kromhout, a historic shipyard with a monumental cast-iron roof dating back to 1899.

18-21 SEPTEMBER, GLUE.AMSTERDAM

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods City Guide ’s

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

With our online guide, you’ll find out everything about the newest spots in town for food, drink and more: iamsterdam. com/new

Stargazing nights

As the nights become longer, it’s the perfect time for stargazing. Head to the Anton Pannekoek Institute for Astronomy for their stargazing nights, where astronomy lovers are invited to gaze into the Milky Way. These open nights usually last an hour with a lecture included, before you gaze into the telescope and try spotting the constellations of Pegasus and Aquarius.

7 SEPTEMBER, 26 SEPTEMBER, 25 OCTOBER, 28 NOVEMBER, API.UVA.NL/STARGAZING/ STARGAZING-NIGHTS

58 A Ferry Tale

62 Zuid

63 Zuidoost

64 West

65 Noord

67 Nieuw-West

68 Centrum

69 Oost

BUITENVELDERT

ZUIDOOST

GAASPERPLAS

Across the River

58 | BY: LAUREN COMITEAU

TA Ferry Tale

Whether you’re trying to cross the IJ River, simply feel the fresh breeze on your face or possibly fall in love, Amsterdam’s ferries will take you there. in

his is – really and truly – a ferry tale. Frans Tienstra and Ank Waldhuizen, both ferry captains for 30 years, met on a ferry he captained. Twenty-four years later, they have three kids and, at 67- and 70-years-old, they’ve both come out of retirement to command Amsterdam’s public ferries across the IJ. ‘Our rule now is that we both do a shift together,’ says Tienstra. ‘The wife is the boss. She was the fi rst female ferry boat captain in Amsterdam.’ Tienstra says there are some ten women captains now in a fleet tasked with carrying commuters, school kids, tourists and culture seekers across the IJ that separates the city centre from the north, or Noord.

Ferry history

Amsterdam has likely relied on ferries since at least the early 14th century, but by the 17th century, increasingly larger seafaring vessels had trouble reaching the city. A little stellar Dutch water management, including reclaiming land and lock-building in the 1800s, connected the industrial north with the rest of the city via the IJ. These days, there are seven ferry lines across the IJ, including the longest (about 14 minutes) F4 route from Central Station to NDSM, and the shortest and busiest F3 ferry to Buiksloterweg. The latter takes a mere five minutes to get you to the Eye Filmmuseum, plus cultural hotspots such as the Tolhuistuin and A’DAM Tower and bike paths leading north to the windmills and fishing villages of

Discover how to navigate Amsterdam’s free ferry service for seamless travel across the IJ River.

Across the River

The best rides

For stunning views F3 – BUIKSLOTERWEG

The one with the view. This ferry takes you across the IJ River from Central Station to Buiksloterweg. You’ll arrive in just a few minutes, but in that time, you’ll be gifted with an unparalleled view of the soaring A’DAM Tower and architectural gem Eye Filmmuseum, gleaming brightly on the banks across from it. It’s especially beautiful when the sun sets.

The Amsterdam Ferry Festival will take command of the NDSM line during Museum Night (1 November), turning your trip across the IJ River into a floating art exhibition MUSEUMNACHT.AMSTERDAM

Broek in Waterland and Monnickendam. Amsterdam’s beloved pontjes (‘ferries’) offer a quick, convenient, glorious and free alternative for the 76,000 people choosing it daily over other modes of public transport.

Water views

But practicality isn’t everything. Let’s not forget divine inspiration. There’s something Zen-like about leaving the hustle and bustle of the city behind and admiring the view from the gently rippling water.

‘Sailing itself is always fun,’ says Tienstra. ‘And on Amsterdam’s ferries, you’re basically on a terrace all day, looking at everything around you – ships, weather changes, birds and all kinds of people.’ As long as they stay healthy, says Tienstra, it’s full steam ahead for the husband-wife captaining duo.

For people-watching

F4 – NDSM

The ferry to NDSM leaves next to the one to Buiksloterweg, so make sure to catch the right one. It’s a busy ride, taking NDSM-residents and those who work there from one side of the river to the other. With all those people going across in about 14 minutes, it’s the ideal ride for some people-watching. And with Noord being the creative and fashionable neighbourhood, something or someone will undoubtedly catch your eye on the way.

To the cool places

F1 – AZARTPLEIN-ZAMENHOFSTRAAT

Taking you from the Azartplein in Oost to Noord, this ferry is an off-the-beaten-track one. It will take you to an emerging corner of Noord, Nieuwendammerham, that’s brimming with cool places to eat and entertain. Think neighbourhood hangout De VerbroederIJ, with its sustainable restaurant, vegetable garden and pet pigs Barry and Rosita, Skatecafé Karin & Yvonne, and Oedipus brewery.

ISABELL

Unearth the lasting friendship between Vincent van Gogh and postman Joseph Roulin at Van Gogh and the Roulins. Together Again at Last FROM 3 OCTOBER

Tree-lined, star-studded and palatial, Zuid always knows how to impress.

Little Paris

Amber (36), entrepreneur INSIDER TIP

‘I like Liev Coffee & Pastry on Dusartstraat because it’s so quiet there. If you need a good place to do some work and have a great cup of coffee, this is the spot.’

The charming Cornelis Schuytstraat − often described as ‘Little Paris’ − offers niche fashion and beauty boutiques such as 1 Amsterdam, By Danie Designer Vintage Store and Salle Privée. There are excellent food and drink specialists, such as fish shop Visque, butcher De Schuyt and upscale greengrocer Tom Ensink. Refuel at the always-convivial Brasserie de Joffers or linger over French bistro classics at the chic Café Garçon or Georgian specialities at Batoni Khinkali

Kafé Kontrast

Self-described as a Scandinavian-Indonesian café and aperitif bar, Kafé Kontrast is a novel concept. Inspired by the low-key hum of Southeast Asian cafés and Scandinavia’s flair for design, this spot combines unpretentiousness with all things pretty. Dig into classic Swedish meatballs or try the Indonesian breakfast where thick, butter-toasted brioche is served with homemade kaya coconut-pandan jam and poached eggs for dipping. CEINTUURBAAN 71, KAFEKONTRAST.COM

Rosa Rosas Vintage

Secondhand is in and don’t we know it. And Rosa Rosas Vintage is the spot to find it. Home to punchy prints, ’70s-inspired clothes and all manner of antique accessories and jewellery, stop here and you’re bound to leave with something in hand. It’s also next door to coffee spot Pipes & Beans, which serves Colombian-roasted goodness. RIETWIJKERSTRAAT 33, INSTAGRAM. COM/ROSAROSASVINTAGE

COMMUNAL COOL

Jazz Café NoLimit

Zuidoost

Home to some of the city’s most exciting festivals and events, Zuidoost is alive all year long.

Accessible, intimate and unpretentious – that at least is what NoLimit’s programme looks to achieve. A jazz café that functions as a cultural centre, musical styles merge here even when jazz takes centre stage. Focused on showcasing new talent in Zuidoost every month throughout autumn, this neighbourhood favourite has the musical chops and community feel that make the district so special.

19 SEPTEMBER, 17 OCTOBER, 21 NOVEMBER, BUURTHUIZENZUIDOOST.NL

Nelson Mandela Park

Take advantage of the autumnal colours by walking in one of Zuidoost’s major parks. Renamed Nelson Mandela Park in 2014, this is a place to skate, walk amid the magnolia valley and climb to the top of the butterfly hill. You can even head over to a dedicated garden filled with trees from countries where the inhabitants of Zuidoost originally hail from, as much a celebration of the community as it is nature’s bounty.

Dig into Esjes Cakes’ signature cake bowls like deconstructed red velvet cake and lashings of icing. GRUBBEHOEVE 48 ESJESCAKES.COM

De Proefzaak

Autumn is the season for beer, at least if you like darker, maltier varieties. And right next to Ikea, you’ll find one of the district’s best beer halls – De Proefzaak. The tasting room of the adjoining Kleiburg brewery, De Proefzaak is where you’ll find a range of delicious brews and equally delicious burgers. Opt for one of the seasonal beers such as the Bijlmer Bok, a dark bock beer named after the neighbourhood it calls home, or the woody, coffee-inflected Quadruple Poorter. HULLENBERGWEG 6, DEPROEFZAAK.NL

INSIDER TIP

‘My tip in my neighbourhood has to be, of course, food. The roti menu at Toko De Poort is really good, you have to try it.” Fleur (28), project manager

Museum Villa

No city has more cultural institutions per square metre than Amsterdam and the opening of yet another museum looks to cement that further. Enter Museum Villa, which opens in Cultuurdorp Westergas this autumn and is billed as a place for playful and contemporary art. With a focus on co-curation, the museum works on rotation with 15 artists, with each room designed to give space to every work before a fresh new collection descends.

One of the city’s most dynamic and desirable neighbourhoods, there’s a reason people say West is best.

OPENS 13 SEPTEMBER, MUSEUMVILLA.COM

Bon Burger

Few things say 21st-century life more than a smash burger-focused wine bar – but don’t dismiss this as just hype because these burgers are good. Run by the team behind Bottleshop in Oost, Bon Burger Bar combines a flair for wine with a panache for flame-grilled goodness. Soft buttery brioche buns, smashed patties, special sauce and plenty of oozy cheese make these burgers close to unmissable.

JACOB VAN LENNEPKADE 334 INSTAGRAM.COM/BONBURGERBAR

Lovers of dark, seasonal beer gather to try 40+ autumnal brews for the 43rd edition of Pint Bockbier Festival in De Hallen.

3-4 OCTOBER PINTBOCKBIERFESTIVAL.NL

Vintage Jungle

Started by vintage lovers Marlot and Imara, Vintage Jungle in the trendy De Baarsjes neighbourhood is a treasure trove of unique pieces, including Afghan dresses, Austrian embroidered knits, boho waistcoats, vintage silk kimonos and summer linen. WITTE DE WITHSTRAAT 114 INSTAGRAM.COM/VINTAGE_JUNGLE

‘We discovered a small Lebanese restaurant through word-of-mouth, Beyrouth on Kinkerstraat, that has delicious food, and some of the best mezze around.

Denise (49)

INSIDER TIP

Noord

RUGGED REINVENTION

Industrial, arty and happening, Noord might just be a ferry ride away, but it’s a world of its own.

Ambacht in Beeld

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

For the crafty among us, Ambacht in Beeld festival will put your hands to work. Loosely defined as an arts and crafts fair, this twoday programme at NDSM Loods covers all things artisan. Learn how to make an arctic paddle and how to weave, or brush up on Chinese paper design and how to repair instruments. Whatever you choose, you’ll leave with a new, unusual skill.

27-28 SEPTEMBER, AMBACHTINBEELDFESTIVAL.NL

No-Yusu

One of Amsterdam’s favourite cafés, Yusu has made a name for itself with consistently solid coffee brews, brilliant matcha and inventive sweet treats such as crème brûlée cake. Now it’s got a Noord outpost, dubbed No-Yusu, arguably the spot for iced and cold brews that come in social mediaready aesthetic colours, which attract some of the city’s chicest crowds.

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 83, LINKTR.EE/YUSU.COFFEE

Enjoy funky wines and genre-splicing records at listening bar hideout Murmur that’s always ahead of the curve.

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 60 MURMURMUR.NL

Mosveld Market

Noord’s Van der Pekstraat is the first avenue most people stroll down when they arrive on the ferry from Central Station, and this street market at Mosveld (at the end of the street) is a great introduction to the neighbourhood. Held on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, this is as much a place for local produce as it is time-worn antiques. Get yourself a bargain and stop by one of the nearby vendors such as Royalvis & Traiteur afterwards for fresh fish at a steal of a price. MOSVELD

‘Pllek is amazing, especially on beautiful days because of its beachy vibes – it lets you hold on to the summer mood even when its autumn. Summer rules!’ Gracia (19), student INSIDER TIP

ICONIC COLLECTION OF GLASS ART AT MUSEUM JAN FOR INSPIRATION: VISITAMSTELVEEN.NL/ART

Come and visit Muiderslot, the most beautiful and best kept medieval castle in the Netherlands- just 15 kilometers from Amsterdam. Surrounded by water and beautiful gardens, Muiderslot was constructed over 700 years ago. It is one of the oldest and best preserved castles in the Netherlands. The castle arose in 1285 and there are many stories to tell about its long and turbulent history. These days, the castle is a vibrant place enjoyed by many.

COME AND VISIT

Nieuw-West

PARKS & RECREATION

Puck

When the temperatures dip, indoor activities are key. And that’s where places such as Puck really shine (though they’re great all year round). A sprawling arcade teeming with everything from air hockey to basketball games and snowboarding simulations, this is a great spot for groups looking for retro fun. It doesn’t hurt that it’s a bar serving drinks and snacks too – a perfect stop-off before transitioning into the onsite karaoke.

JAN EVERTSENSTRAAT 747, CLUBPUCK.NL

Buzzy venues and waterside walks lend this green neighbourhood heaps of autumnal appeal.

Loud whispers

Aden’s Viennoiserie

Patisseries are on the rise, but this Viennoiserie is a breakout star. Home to dreamy pastry concoctions such as chocolate swirl passion fruit pavlovas, whipped cream and strawberry tarts, plus velvety pain au chocolats, there’s a lot to love here. Grab one of these to go along with a strawberry matcha for everything you need for a perfect autumnal walk.

BURGEMEESTER DE VLUGTLAAN 198 INSTAGRAM.COM/ADENSVIENNOISERIE

Everyone has a voice in their head – at least that’s what this dance spectacle at the Meervaart theatre looks to convey. A look into our inner dialogues, modern dance and hiphop converge, as Eastern and Western sounds form the basis of the soundtrack to show just how contradictory the voices in our heads can be.

10-11 OCTOBER

MEERVAART.NL

INSIDER TIP

‘Café Buiten on the shore of Sloterplas is really nice for a lunch or breakfast outing with friends. I go there a lot on weekends.’

Ese (38), shopping assistant

Centrum

‘Kikkie van de Prinsensluis in the Jordaan neighbourhood is a hip, modern spot where lots of young local people go for drinks and food – including me.’

Chris (30), airport advisor

Beyond the lights and the action lies a quiet, cosy centre that never fails to surprise.

Animals of the canals

While the focus on wildlife on the canals has tended to focus on tourists flocking to Amsterdam’s centre, animals do, in fact, call these watery belts home too. That’s what the Grachtenmuseum (Museum of the Canals) looks to explore in its latest exhibition, uncovering the secret life of the many animals (including parakeets and eels) that find their way along the water.

UNTIL 23 NOVEMBER, GRACHTEN.MUSEUM

Hoi Tin Café

While you might groan at another matcha spot (or not? See our list of best matcha spots on page 22), Hoi Tin has great credentials with its Hong Kong-inspired snacks such as bolo bao (‘pineapple buns’) and sai do si (Hong Kong-style French toast).

ZEEDIJK 119 INSTAGRAM.COM/HOITINCAFE

A feast for those who love colour, The Scenery Shop is home to sustainable children’s clothing (such as this Happy Campers bodysuit, €28), stationery and accessories.

HERENSTRAAT 7 SCENERY-SHOP.COM

Contra Amsterdam

Located in the former building of the Amsterdam Academic Club, this live music bar and restaurant does both atmosphere and food well. Split across two floors and soaked in sensual, late-night red lighting, complete with a mini stage, the trick here is to grab a corner table and start with some dinner snacks á la carte and order into the night as performers take to the stage and lull you with seductive jazz tracks.

OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL 235, CONTRA-AMSTERDAM.NL

Dapper

Thronging markets, community feel and laidback eateries, Oost makes it easy to love thy neighbour.

Comedy and jazz at Studio/K

The newest venture on the Dappermarkt is Dapper café, a queer-run all-day (and sometimes all-night) venue run by Sophie Kroese. Dapper’s vegetarian-focused menu (with the city’s crispiest potatoes) makes it an easy crowd-pleaser. Perhaps the biggest pull, however, is its location, with a terrace that catches the sun almost all day long, making it an ideal spot to transition from lunch to coffee to wine to dinner to cocktails... Yes, also in autumn.

DAPPERMARKT 26, DAPPER.CAFE

Calling all queer people to Lola the Green Aardvark, where their Pink Oost gathering happens bi-monthly on Thursday evenings, and there’s a Queer Pub Quiz every first Tuesday of the month.

100

Div.

Studio/K might be the destination for film lovers in Oost, but it’s as much a cultural space for all art forms as it is for cinephiles. Every second Tuesday of the month, Studio/K turns into Comedy/Kafé where local stand-up acts try their best to get a laugh out of you. And if live music is more your thing, head here on the last Wednesday of the month for free jazz performances to while away the night.

TIMORPLEIN 62, STUDIO-K.NU

There’s often a real lack of well-curated menswear stores wherever you go, so Div. is a welcome tonic to those in search of one. Home to established names such as Carhartt and WoodWood, alongside cult favourites including Libertine Libertine, Won Hundred, Norse Projects and Universal Works, there’s a 100% guarantee you’ll find something stylish across its clothes and footwear collections, and a 100% guarantee you’ll leave wanting to come back for more.

JAVASTRAAT 100, DIVAMSTERDAM.COM

‘Café Insulinde in the Indische neighbourhood is a tiny bar with mini rugs on the tables and a pool table. They still play CDs, which I really like.’

Tim (28), student

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET TRAVEL WITH THE

by bus, tram, metro & train

Buy your ticket here Scan the QR-code for more information and online ticket sales or purchase your ticket at the ‘I Amsterdam

Day Trips

Discover the Amsterdam Area

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

74 Feature: Villages

New Land

Haarlem

Flowers

Castles & Gardens 83 Old Holland 85 Beach

Tsar Peter House

about day trips and the region

A humble dwelling that famously housed Peter the Great during his eight days in the Netherlands in 1697, the Tsar Peter House is for those interested in the region’s trading history. In the 17th century, the area now known as Zaandam was a renowned shipbuilding district, and Peter the Great visited the region to learn about Dutch techniques. Fittingly, this old wooden house he called (temporary) home was constructed from repurposed ship materials. KRIMP 23, ZAANSMUSEUM.NL/CZAAR-PETERHUISJE

Fairytale Villages

74 | BY: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Straight out of a fairytale: Muiderslot Castle boasts real turrets, a real moat and real falcons – all really close to Amsterdam.

Postcard-Perfect Destinations

Misted-over moats, gingerbread-like houses and tiny ferries... these storybook villages and towns are real and closer than you think.

Forget Giethoorn (or at least save it for another trip), the Amsterdam area is sprinkled with villages and towns so quaint they will make your TikTok filters feel redundant. Just 30-40 minutes from the city, you’ll find places where time has politely declined the 21st century. They may look like charming curiosities now, but these picture-perfect villages and towns were built with purpose –and quite a bit of grit.

Shaped by history

Beneath the lace-curtain allure and mirrored canals, many of these places have surprisingly strategic roots. Take Naarden, a near-perfect star-shaped fortress and part of the Dutch Water Defence Lines: a system designed to flood whole stretches of land in the event of invasion. The idea was that soldiers could wade where horses and cannons could not. Handy, if you’re a low-lying republic with powerful neighbours. Vesting towns such as

Naarden (and nearby Weesp) were walled, moated and geometrically designed to protect access to Amsterdam. Today, they still feel orderly, though thankfully without the cannon fire.

Focus on fish

To the north and east, a di erent kind of story plays out; one shaped by saltwater. Before the 20th-century Afsluitdijk turned the wild Zuiderzee into the gentler IJsselmeer, much of this region depended entirely on fishing. In places such as Marken and Monnickendam, herring and eel weren’t just menu staples but economic lifelines. Marken’s wooden houses, built on stilts or artificial mounds, speak to a time when flooding was as common as fishing.

All may now be photogenic day-trip destinations, but they were shaped by water – whether to defend against or live from it. And that history still ripples beneath the surface.

The area is sprinkled with villages so quaint they will make your TikTok filters feel redundant

Fairytale Villages

The sleepy sibling: Muiden

Often overlooked, Muiden has quietly become a go-to afternoon getaway for Amsterdammers longing for a quick escape in the Castles & Gardens region. Easily reached by bike from Amsterdam-Oost, Muiden is famed for its castle – Muiderslot –but its centre, divided by the River Vecht, is home to several time-tested brown bars and terraces that give it endless appeal when the autumn sun’s out.

The watery idyll: Broek in Waterland

One of the Netherlands’ prettiest villages, Broek in Waterland is precisely what you might expect from a Dutch locale, filled with pastel-coloured wooden houses cut by canals, and surrounded by fields and an almost Shire-like peace and quiet. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was home to many successful ship owners, captains and merchants, and their wealth made it one of the most prosperous villages in the area. Nowadays, though, Broek in Waterland’s wooden houses –carefully restored and painted in authentic ‘Broeker’ grey – attract artists and creatives.

The picturesque hamlet: De Rijp

This tiny village is all painted eaves and gabled houses. Once a whaling town, now delightfully landlocked, it looks like something straight out of a 17th-century painting (minus the smog and plague). De Rijp is small so there’s no better way to explore than on foot. Start at the tourism office, located inside the historic town hall that dates back to 1630. From there, walk along the narrow streets and across bridges, and end your tour with a coffee or lunch.

The island escape: Marken

As a former island-turned-village, Marken has an innate fairytale quality. Perhaps it’s the stretch of colourful homes built on stilts that line the waterfront or the fact you can only reach the village via a narrow road along one long dam. Either way, Marken has a pull and history to it, famed for the traditional costumes of its residents, and is said to be the most decorated in the Netherlands. Bike out in the sunshine and head to the Marker Museum for a roundup of the village’s history before making a beeline to the harbour for a snack on the waterfront.

TIP: The Volendam Marken Express ferry is included in the I amsterdam City Card

Join the harvesting feast (on weekends from mid-September to mid-October) at the magical 170-year-old Olmenhorst estate.

The fishing Monnickendamspot:

The river town: Weesp

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp and its protected historical city centre is a honeycomb of cosy cafés, soaring church steeples and photogenic drawbridges. While technically part of Amsterdam, Weesp still feels like a lovely day trip, a snug riverside hideout that has a village feel but all the trappings of a town. Wander through the centre to Weesp’s former town hall – a stately, neoclassical building – which now houses Museum Weesp, the municipal museum devoted mainly to 18thcentury porcelain crafts.

The harbour town of Monnickendam is the beautiful home of dozens of monumental buildings as well as being a postcard picture of maritime life in Old Holland. In the 17th century, shipyards and fish smokehouses were established here and never left. Today, the town’s relationship with the water is as strong, and sailing enthusiasts and anyone looking for a peaceful waterfront location flock here. Sit at one of the many restaurants overlooking the marina and watch the boats launch as the bells chime from the Speeltoren, or end the day at one of the many cosy beach bars along the Gouwzee.

The fortress hideout: Naarden

A town that has long drawn visitors due to its history and layout, when seen from the air, Naarden resembles a gigantic snowflake, which was why it was used as a rallying point for Allied bombers during World War II. Now, its military history is alive and well but in calmer form, thanks to the Dutch Fortress Museum. If artillery isn’t your thing, the cobbled streets are home to cafés serving up beer and apple pie, while the town’s Grote Kerk is among the country’s oldest churches, meaning there’s peace even amid the town’s symbolic power.

New Land

Birdwatch in the wild at the Vogelfestival Oostvaardersplassen, celebrating our winged friends and those who love them.

21 SEPTEMBER, STAATSBOSBEHEER.NL

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ newland

Nature Returns

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments.

Alluminous Light Art Festival

As darkness descends, the city of Almere comes alive courtesy of the Light Art Festival. For 10 days, light artworks pop up every night, illuminating the way for visitors on foot or by bike. Heading into its fourth edition, this year offers visitors a magical two-hour walk around the Weerwater lake complete with a cycling route, a shuttle boat, and a packed fringe programme featuring musical performances, activities, food and drink.

17-26 OCTOBER, ALMERECENTRUM.NL

Land Art XL Route

New Land is home to the world’s most significant concentration of Land Art – huge artworks made in and with the surrounding landscape. There are nine works by artists including Antony Gormley and Daniel Libeskind. While a car is usually recommended, a bus tour covering all 10 artworks takes place this September, with pick-up and drop-off at Almere Poort station.

De Nieuwe Bibliotheek Almere

Glass-fronted and grand, Almere’s public library is a worthwhile stop-off when you’re in town. Of the city’s four branches, the most visitorfriendly one is in Almere city centre, home to a cinema, a café and thousands of English titles. Pick up one of the many English-language comics or newspapers on offer and head up to the Nieuwscafé on the first floor for a well-deserved coffee and treat.

DENIEUWEBIBLIOTHEEK.NL

21 SEPTEMBER, LANDARTFLEVOLAND.NL

How to get there

Almere and Lelystad

• Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Almere Centrum station (20 minutes)

• Take the train from Almere Centrum to Lelystad Centrum station (14 minutes) New Land National Park

• Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Almere Oostvaarders station. From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the Visitor Centre (60 minutes)

• From Lelystad Centrum, it’s a 20-minute cycle

Café de Paris is a great pitstop for bistro fare and a cosy atmosphere when you arrive in Haarlem. CAFEDEPARIS.NL

GABLED CHARM | 79

Hushed Streets

Taru

With storied alleys and romantic spires, Haarlem’s weave of cobblestone paths is alive with charm and history.

The latest cocktail hotspot to hit Haarlem’s historic streets, Taru is a must for those who love after-hours drinks. To mean both ‘ vessel’ in Japanese and ‘myth’ in Finnish, expect fantastical creations, whatever you choose. You can also grab dinner or even stop by for an expertly poured coffee in this minimal and light-filled space, a perfect antidote to the autumn clouds.

BAR-TARU.NL

Michelangelo and Men

One of the world’s oldest thinkers takes centre stage at the Netherlands’ oldest museum, the Teylers Museum. Michelangelo and Men explores the Italian sculptor’s fascination and reverence for the male form in the first exhibition to be dedicated to the subject. As much a celebration of the male body as it is of Michelangelo’s own life and work, this anatomical showcase sheds new light on gender, sexuality and beauty ideals through the ages.

FROM 15 OCTOBER TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

Haarlem Vinyl Festival

Dubbed the world’s first multiday festival dedicated to vinyl, the Haarlem Vinyl Festival has become a staple of the city’s seasonal programme. You’ll find it all here: art, culture, listening sessions, vinyl talks, and live shows with DJS spinning new and old tunes.

Spread across the city’s best venues, such as De Koepel and Jopenkerk, this is a great way to get a feel for Haarlem and create a soundtrack to remember it by.

26-28 SEPTEMBER, HAARLEMVINYLFESTIVAL.COM

© JULIA KNIESE

Flowers

Take in unblemished, lakeside views with a cocktail in hand at waterfront restaurant and bar On The Rock in Aalsmeer. ONTHEROCK.NL

Among the Orchards

The

world-famous flower strip

has a glow in the autumn too, when hushed meadows and serene lakes are just as stunning.

Dahlia Festival

While spring is the obvious time to visit the flower fields, the area makes for a lovely autumn visit too, as dahlias bloom from late summer onwards. These delicate, petalheavy flowers are grown en masse in the area, and the best time to see them at large is during the Dahlia Festival. Bike along the 35-kilometre Bollenstreek route or head to the Dahlia Show Garden at FBT, De Tulperij flower farm or ILoveDahlia picking garden. VISITDUINENBOLLENSTREEK.NL | DETULPERIJ.NL | ILOVEDAHLIA.NL

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam.com/ flowers

Cruquius Museum

Once upon a time, Amsterdam and neighbouring cities were under threat of being flooded until the Cruquius pump (the largest steam engine in the world) managed to drain the Haarlemmermeer and save the day. Discover the steam pump station that defeated ‘the waterwolf’ and delve into watery history and the Netherlands’ delicate relationship with water at the pavilion.

CRUQUIUS-MUSEUM.NL

We are woven to an end

Art is supposed to last forever, but what happens when it decays? This is the central question this fort-turned-museum looks to answer in its latest showcase. The exhibition, which will first focus on sculpture, will change in size as artworks are added and removed. It’s one where works ‘ will be shown for the very last time before disappearing in a ritual farewell. Sometimes painful, sometimes liberating.’ The question remains –what are you ready to let go of?

It

UNTIL 2 NOVEMBER, KUNSTFORT.NL

How to get there

Cruquius: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem station. Transfer to bus 340, bus stop Cruquius, Ringvaartbrug (45 minutes)

Kunstfort Vijfhuizen: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hoofddorp station. Transfer to bus 300, bus stop Vijfhuizen (60 minutes)

Explore the ramparts and underground passages of the Dutch Fortress Museum, where the centuries-old cannons fire every Sunday.

VESTINGMUSEUM.NL

Castles & Gardens

Moated castles, patchworks of forest and grand estates await in this autumnal landscape.

The Royal Treatment

Fort H

Located in a former fort of the New Dutch Waterline – a series of forts and locks built between 1815 and 1940 that used existing bodies of water to flood surrounding areas as a defence mechanism – this restaurant in Muiden opts for wine and dine rather than flood and fight. With a menu that spans red lobster to sashimi to blinis with smoked salmon, there’s a good chance you’ll leave here feeling full and like the king or queen of the castle.

Nardinclant Estate

In Laren, this estate, fondly called the ‘Amsterdam Garden’, is a tranquil private spa to reconnect with nature as you indulge in luxurious treatments. Here, you’ll find high-end wellness facilities including a sauna, steam room, massage services, a jet-stream swimming pool and tennis courts. The immaculately kept grounds provide one of the few remaining examples of the Dutch decorative garden style, with tours available. Plus, boutique accommodation is available in the villa.

AMSTERDAMGARDEN.COM

FORTH.NL

1913 at Singer Laren

Dutch modernists weren’t always well-known. But in the 20th century, artists such as Kees van Dongen and Piet Mondrian began to move into European circles, as much as their contemporaries moved towards them. 1913 celebrates that shift and explosion of art, a year when the Dutch went avant-garde. Expect works such as Jan Sluijters’ Composition de eurs and Leo Gestel’s Zomerbloemen, across six themed rooms that encapsulate a year that changed everything in art. FROM 16 SEPTEMBER, SINGERLAREN.NL

or

Laren and Singer Laren Museum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum. Transfer to bus 108

109 to Laren (50 minutes)

Zaan Area

For more tips, routes and hidden spots in the Zaan region, check out: zaans.nl

Cycle from Amsterdam into the heart of the Zaanstreek area, along the 11-kilometre waterfront of the Zaan River connecting vintage buildings with a grand industrial past and a new, cultural purpose.

A Bike Trip Along the Zaan River

Your journey begins in Amsterdam at the historic harbour pier, Het Stenen Hoofd, before you cycle north toward your first stop.

Hembrugterrein

Once a munitions factory complex, this area has transformed into a vibrant cultural hub. There’s plenty to explore – if you’re in the mood for art and reflection, visit the Museum of Humanity, which offers a moving exploration of what it means to be human. For a coffee and a bite, Lab-44 and Cafeteria Hembrug are both great spots to recharge.

Zaandam

Next up is Zaandam, the major city of the region. Here, you’ll find the Lego-like Inntel Hotel. and pop into the Zaanstore across the street for local products, sightseeing tips, and a shot with giant Zaanse clogs. Discover

the tiny Czar Peter House, where the Russian tsar once stayed, and the iconic Blue House captured by famous painter Monet. Hungry? Pass by De Fabriek or lively Dam square for a burger and fries, or the Verkadefabriek, which will lure you in with the smell of freshly baked bread.

Zaandijk

Head north out of the city and you’ll end up in Zaandijk, one of the region’s prettiest villages. Stop by Brouwerij Hoop’s beer garden for a craft beer in the sunshine, or Restaurant Wolfsend for tea and coffee.

Zaanse Schans

Arguably the region’s most famous sight, the Zaanse Schans open-air museum is your next stop. Originating in 1850, the windmills provide a glimpse into the industrial past of the Netherlands. Most of the traditional vil-

lage houses have now transformed into workshops for the region’s crafts, like weaving and barrel-making.

Vijfhoekpark

Make your last stop a leisurely one at Vijfhoekpark. Teeming with highland cattle and local wildlife, dip your toes in the water after a long bike ride. From here, bike to NDSM in Amsterdam Noord – once the largest shipyard in Europe, now an emerging area for art, food and innovative enterprises.

Check out the online route: scan the QR-code to follow the route on Komoot

Almond croissants, chewy biscuits, freshly baked loaves and ciabatta sandwiches await at Kiss Bakery in Zaandam after a waterside stroll.

KISSBAKERY.NL

Old Holland

With its picturesque townlets, artisan history and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering this region feels like stepping back in time.

Windmill Country

Zaans Museum

The Zaan is one of the oldest industrial areas in Europe, where wind and water played an essential role in its trade success. The Zaans Museum tells the story of daily life in the region over the centuries. Once upon a time, Claude Monet was so inspired by the area that he painted 25 works. At the museum, you’ll find paintings such as The Voorzaan and the Westerhem plus an interactive presentation with all his Zaanse works.

ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ oldholland

Seafood tasting

You can’t visit this region without indulging in seafood. Head to Volendam or Monnickendam, where there’s plenty of opportunity to get your hands on some fresh fish; from the less intimidating kibbeling (little pieces of fried fish) to smoked eel or herring, which is most often eaten raw with onions. Visit a few fish stalls along the harbour or take a seat at one of the many seafood restaurants to get your fill.

Laag Holland Maker’s Market

Old Holland is just as much known for its artisan trades as its windmills, which makes this craft market in Purmerend a must. Organised on the Cheese Market square, local makers come together to showcase their wares and handicrafts. Vendors vary by year, but typically you’ll find dairy products such as cheese and milk from the area, handmade jewellery and handcrafted tableware for your home. 27 SEPTEMBER, LAAGHOLLAND.COM

How to get there

Purmerend: Take bus 305 from Amsterdam Central to Purmerend (20 minutes)

Zaandam: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zaandam station (two stops further is Zaanse Schans station) (15 minutes)

Zaans Museum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zaanse Schans station. From there it’s a 10-minute walk (30 minutes)

Fishing villages: Take the bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Monnickendam (15 minutes), Marken (30 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes)

Plan your route via visitzandvoort.nl/ route/herten-route

On the outskirts of Zandvoort – the region’s most famous beach town – lies a special part of Amsterdam. The Waterleidingduinen are home to the largest population of fallow deer in the Netherlands – a must see for anyone visiting in autumn.

Deer-spotting in the Dunes

In the vast dune landscape of the Waterleidingduinen (Water Supply Dunes), nature sets the pace, especially during the rutting season of the fallow deer. From mid-September to October, the dune area is transformed into an open-air theatre. In the afternoons, sand dunes fill with the calls of male deer – a bellow that’s a mix of roar-

ing and growling – noisily hunting for a mate in what is one of the area’s great wildlife phenomena. In October, special guided deer walks are on offer and all the dates can be found in the Visit Zandvoort events calendar.

events calendar.

Dune walks

Take the 6.4-kilometre walk through the area, starting at the entrance of Zandvoortselaan 130. The route is marked by green posts which crest dune

paths, hills and open plains. Along the way, you’ll spot foxes, birds and rabbits, while early in the morning, wisps of mist linger between the trees. Traffic, bicycles and dogs aren’t allowed here, ensuring peace and quiet in the area. At the end of the walk, enjoy the warmth of a fire or an autumn lunch at one of Zandvoort’s yearround beach pavilions.

The Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen are easily accessible by car and public transport, or reached by bike or bus from Zandvoort station.

Get swept up in the yo-ho-hos! and swashbuckling singing of Shanty and Sea Songs Festival, Zandvoort’s premier shanty sing-off.

28 SEPTEMBER

Dune Life

Beach

Stripped-back and beautiful, the coastline around Amsterdam is cut by sloping dunes, rugged national parks and clear, crystalline views.

11 Strandentocht Run

The beach might not be warm enough to sunbathe on, but it’s perfect for running. This run, known as the ‘11 Beach Tour’, takes you along 11 beaches (and the wild seas that crest them) for charity. You can either run or walk the distance – 50-, 25- or 12.5km – but it’s a great way to gulp in the salty air and get a sense of just how rugged and raw the scenery is. 1 NOVEMBER, 11STRANDENTOCHT.NL

Zandvoort Art

For two days in October, this annual event transforms the area’s major beach town, Zandvoort, into an art-lover’s muse. Featuring 100 artists at 26 locations, take the art route and admire the installations and works that range from sea spirit art to contemporary sculpture. 11-12 OCTOBER, ZANDVOORTART.NL

Autumn nature

The dunes surrounding Wijk aan Zee offer a tranquil escape into nature and glimpses of the autumn foliage. One highlight is the Paasduin, rising about 30 metres high, which provides sweeping views of the village and the ships approaching the North Pier. The Zuid-Kennemerland National Park is nearby and home to a special variety of flora and fauna. Old oak forests, sand dunes and park forests alternate here, with routes to explore all this on foot or by bike. WIJKAANZEE.NET

Zandvoort: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zandvoort aan Zee (30 minutes)

IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to IJmuiden aan Zee (45 minutes)

Zuid-Kennemerland: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem station. Transfer to bus 81, bus stop Bloemendaal, Kennemerduinen (50 minutes)

Gifts, tickets & tourist information

Located at Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side. Open 365 days a year, from 09:00 until 19:00. For the most up-to-date opening hours, visit iamsterdam.com/store.

Visit the I amsterdam Store for expert city tips, authentic gifts and souvenirs from local makers, and purchasing your I amsterdam City Card. City Card holders get 10% off on I amsterdam merchandise.

My Amsterdam

BY: WENDY DENISSEN

In each edition, we ask a local illustrator to share their view on Amsterdam.

‘I live in Amsterdam Oud-West and I love my neighborhood, but my heart beats for Amsterdam Oost where I’ve lived for a few years before – especially the Javastraat. I can spend hours just wandering around that street. It’s a wild mix of cultures, flavors, and vibes. One minute you’re eating baklava, the next you’re sipping jenever. For even more excitement, head to the Dappermarkt. Or when tired of the hustle and bustle, the Flevopark is the perfect place to unwind. The local band Lui Paard puts it best: ‘Heel Amsterdam in de Javastraat’ – the whole city packed into one street. Couldn’t agree more.’

WWW.WENDYDENISSEN.NL

Freeentrance museums & attractions

Free canal cruise

Free public transport

1 day bicycle rental

On the Way Out

BOOK (BUYING AND READING) TIPS FROM THE MAGAZINE’S TEAM...

‘On my birthday I take the afternoon off and head to Scheltema book store on Rokin. I browse all the floors, collect a stack of books and head to the coffee shop on the first floor, where I scan through them all with a coffee and cake. And finally, at the end of the day, I select those I want to take home. The relaxed vibe and the books I buy – it’s the ultimate birthday gift to myself!’

Karin Thybaut, deputy editor

editor-in-chief

‘I admit I’m biased; I’ve worked with The American Book Center (ABC) for the past few years. But I’ve loved ABC since first finding the Dean & DeLuca Cookbook among its cozy shelves in 1997. For reading, there’s an art installation in Oost, a group of oversized, Alice-in-Wonderlandproportioned ‘rocking’ chairs – perfect to cozy up in with a book and a latte. You’ll get so engrossed you won’t even notice there’s no rock in the chairs!’

‘I am convinced that the best bookshops are always a tad messy. Don’t believe me? Go visit The Book Exchange near Nieuwmarkt. It might seem small from outside, but they house the biggest second-hand collection of English books on the European continent. Floor-to-ceiling bookcases span every wall; even the staircases have their own shelves. I’ve found many of my favourite editions here.’

Jay Frelink, editor

B art van Oosterhout art director & basic design

Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer

Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors

Theresa Auer, Barbara van den Berg, Lauren Comiteau, Wendy Denissen, Karin Engelbrecht, Tom Flanagan, Jay Frelink, Pascale Kahn, Callum McLean, Verity Seward, Monique Wijbrands

‘I’ve always preferred smaller bookshops so one of my go-to places is Java Bookshop in Oost. It’s tucked away towards the end of Javastraat and it’s easy to miss (but then all the best ones are). There’s a small English section which I always dip into, but I like dropping in whenever I can because the shop feels like a cosy hideaway from the world, which is really what a bookstore should be. It’s good for cards too.’

Lauren

Comiteau, journalist and columnist

Callum McLean, freelance writer editions

Tom Flanagan, culture editor

didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher

‘Amsterdam has no shortage of leafy spots for reading, but my favourite is the Botanic Garden Zuidas, open until October. It’s usually dead quiet and always bursting with exotic plants – a sleepy little oasis dwarfed by the skyscrapers of the business district.’

THE OUTLET AROUND THE CORNER