Public Transport Map Kenaupark el
Haarlem Spaarnwoude Station Haarlem
82 Amsterdam Sloterdijk
73 75 81 300 346 356
80 81 Bus station
Zandvoort aan Zee
Amsterdam Central Station
Bus station Elandsgracht 80
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Station Amsterdam Zuid
AmsterdamZuidoost Station Bijlmer ArenA 300 356
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3 300 Centrum/ Verwulft
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73 75 Duinen
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IJmuiden aan Zee 75 82
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Station Haarlem 3 73 75 300 346 356
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Visitor Information Centres
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Get out of Amsterdam with the ARTT, which grants you unlimited travel on the city's public transportation and beyond. From flower auctions and windmills to beaches and medieval castles, ARTT is the easiest and most economical way to explore everything the greater Amsterdam Metropolitan Area has to offer! Pick up yours at an I amsterdam Visitor Centre, participating public transport company ticket counter or selected hotel or campsite. (Don't forget to check in and out whenever you get on or off a train or bus!)
Central Station or Amsterdam Airport Schiphol www.iamsterdam.com/area
A VVV Haarlem
3 300 346 356
Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket (ARTT)
I amsterdam Visitor Centre
St Bavo’s Church (Grote Markt) Teylers Museum Molen de Adriaan (windmill) ➍ Frans Hals Museum De Haarlemmerhout (city park) Stadsschouwburg Haarlem (city theatre) Brewery Jopenkerk Shopping district Het Dolhuys Rederij 't Smidtje
ARTT tickets are valid on any bus, tram, metro and train services offered by GVB, Connexxion, EBS and NS (including night buses) from 0:00 until 4:00 the following day. 1-day tickets are €18.50, 2-day tickets €26 and 3-day tickets €33.50. Find more information and a map of all included routes on: www.iamsterdam.com/area
Cultural Highlights (full day)
Art Meets Nature (1/2 day)
Take a 15-minute train ride from Amsterdam Central Station to Haarlem Station (platform 1 or 2, trains run every 10 mins). For centuries, Haarlem has been a centre of art and culture. The railway station is actually your first stop; it’s the country's only station built in the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) style. Pick up a walking guide to Haarlem’s monuments at the Tourist Information Centre A (Grote Markt 2, a five-minute walk south of the station) and start your tour through this historic city. Don’t miss the Teylers Museum (www.teylersmuseum.nl), (free entrance with your I amsterdam City Card), the country’s oldest museum, which feels like leafing through an antique encyclopaedia. A must-see for anyone interested in Dutch Masters is the Frans Hals Museum (www.franshalsmuseum.nl), (free entrance with your I amsterdam City Card), which focuses on the 17th-century Haarlem School and boasts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the artist after which it is named. The Grote Markt square has plenty of cafés and restaurants for a short break and magnificent views of St Bavo’s Church . The 50-metre steeple of this UNESCO-protected monument still dominates Haarlem’s skyline and contains some beautiful Renaissance works of art.
Take a 15-minute train ride from Amsterdam Central Station to Haarlem Station (platform 1 or 2, trains run every 10 mins). With 21 unique examples, Haarlem is truly a city of hofjes. These hidden gardens are surrounded by almshouses, where poor, unmarried and widowed women once lived. Be sure to visit Hofje van Bakenes, which, founded in 1395, is the oldest. There are special guided walks through these gardens (available at the Tourist Information Centre A, Grote Markt 2). Most hofjes can be visited daily except Sundays and entrance is free. Finish your morning with lunch or a cup of coffee at one of the many cafés and restaurants on the Grote Markt square in the city centre. Or bring your own food and enjoy a picnic in De Haarlemmerhout park , the oldest green monument in the Netherlands. You can reach the park in minutes from Haarlem Station (bus 340, 346 or 356 to the Tempeliersstraat stop). Located at the edge of the park, the beautiful neoclassical Paviljoen Welgelegen has been the seat of the provincial government since 1930. Walk around this 60-acre park and discover deer, a petting zoo and a pancake house.
Book your trip at haarlem.nl
Hotspots (1/2 day) Just 15 minutes from Amsterdam Central Station (platform 1 or 2, trains run every 10 mins), Haarlem is a shopper’s dream. Voted ‘Best shopping city in Holland’ more than once, it offers quirky boutiques, fashion-forward concept stores and delicious delis. Don’t miss ID (a small concept store), Jansje (sustainable gifts) and Kloffie (voted most innovative retailer in Holland) in the ‘golden streets’ around the Grote Markt square . Stop for lunch at Hofje zonder Zorgen, a local favourite with a beautiful view over a small courtyard garden. Many more cafés and restaurants are situated around the Grote Markt, such as Grand Café Brinkmann. No trip to Haarlem is complete without a visit to former church-turnedbrewery Jopenkerk , which brews and serves the best ‘real Haarlem’ beers on site. And don’t worry about the time: trains back to Amsterdam run till 1 AM (platform 1 or 3). If you decide to stay, the city offers plenty of affordable hotels.
€13,across Teylers Museum
JOPEN CHURCH HAARLEM BREWERY | GRAND CAFE | RESTAURANT
Gedempte Voldersgracht 2 - 2011 WD Haarlem +31 (0)23 533 41 14 - www.jopenkerk.nl - www.jopenbeer.com
Art & Culture
Shop till you drop
For centuries, Haarlem has been a city of art and culture. From Golden Age painter Frans Hals and historic architecture to modern galleries and quirky museums, there’s something for everyone.
With Michelin-starred restaurants, convivial cafés, world-class concert venues and cuttingedge theatres, Haarlem has everything you need for a lively, culture-packed evening.
Haarlem’s compact centre is crammed with everything from unique boutiques and specialised shops to chain-store staples – perfect for a day of (window) shopping.
Historic Haarlem If you take the train to Haarlem, you’re in for a treat from the moment you arrive. The only Dutch railway station in the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) style, Haarlem Station was constructed in 1906 and is characterised by its many tiled panels, decorative ironwork and striking wooden signal house. It’s a fitting introduction to a city that is teeming with exceptionally rich history. There are 4,000 municipal and national listed monuments in Haarlem, many of them in the well-preserved historic city centre and within easy walking distance of one another. The Amsterdamse Poort, located at the end of the old route from Amsterdam to Haarlem, dates from 1355 and is the last remaining of 12 original city gates that formed the main city defences.
Haarlem pays its own tribute to Holland’s iconic bloom. During the Keukenhof’s (spring garden) open season, the special Tulpomania package features a superb four-in-one experience: the Keukenhof’s floral splendour, a Tulpomania walking tour, a flower exhibition – with both paintings and real flowers – at the Frans Hals Museum, and a Tulpomania beer tasting at the Jopenkerk brewery. The package is available online.
The little pharmacy that could, this family-run shop has held firm since 1849 – refusing to budge even as the towering V&D department store sprung up around it. Walking through the door is like stepping back in time: historic pharmacy jars line the dark wooden shelves, brimming with everything from herbs and spices to liquorice. Pick up some ‘Haarlemmerolie’ (Haarlem Oil), a centuries-old remedy said to cure all ailments. Note the gaper (literally, ‘yawner’) above the door. These stone or wooden heads – often depicting a Moor – were used to indicate that a building is a pharmacy.
BREWERY & RESTAURANT
Grote Markt (square) Flanked by convivial cafés and restaurants – plus plenty of historic buildings – the Grote Markt, previously called ’t Sant, is the original centre of Haarlem and is considered by many the most beautiful urban square in the country. In the 13th and 14th centuries a gallows loomed over ’t Sant, jousting tournaments were held in the square and traders pedalled their wares. The City Hall (which also houses the Tourist Information Centre) stands on the spot of the hunting lodge of the Counts of Holland. The wooden building was almost entirely destroyed by a fire in the 14th century, but was rebuilt in florid style.
Breeding grounds for talent Teylers Museum Behind the heavy monumental door of the oldest museum in Holland, the perfectly preserved world of the 18th-century Enlightenment awaits. In period surroundings that exude the atmosphere of the time, visitors ‘rediscover’ the newest scientific experiments, ‘recently’ excavated fossils and drawings and accounts of journeys of discovery. Wandering through the collection – which is displayed in authentic cases and lit only by daylight – is like leafing through an antique encyclopaedia, allowing each object to tell its own story. The free audio tour comes highly recommended.
TIP: Free entrance with your I amsterdam City Card
Reaching for the Skies
Grote Kerk or St Bavokerk Opposite the City Hall on the Grote Markt looms the Gothic Grote Kerk or St Bavokerk, whose 50-metre steeple has dominated Haarlem’s skyline for centuries. Built between 1370 and 1520, the church is UNESCO-protected and contains some beautiful Renaissance artworks. Famous painters Frans Hals and Pieter Saenredam are buried here, and the renowned Müller organ – one of the finest in the world, standing 30 metres high with about 5,000 pipes – was once played by Mozart at the age of ten.
Past and present meet at Museum Haarlem, the museum where Haarlem’s history takes centre stage in an engaging permanent exhibition. In addition, new exhibits are organised twice per year, more comprehensive excursions into the city’s historical or artistic heritage, combined with lectures, guided tours, city tours and children’s workshops. Open seven days a week, Haarlem Museum is the ideal starting point to explore the city. If your thirst for knowledge is not quenched after learning the history of the famous Haarlem breweries at the museum, head to the popular Jopenkerk for a taste of authentic Haarlem beer. The tour guide knows the way home!
Hofjes Leafy courtyards enclosed by rows of quaint houses, Haarlem’s 21 hofjes can be hard to find, behind their heavy doors and concealed entrances – but they’re well worth seeking out. These almshouses were often established by wealthy citizens as sheltered accommodation for elderly women in need (their male counterparts were housed in ‘old men’s homes’, such as the building that now houses the Frans Hals Museum). The oldest hofjes date back to the 12th century, and were built for Beguines, but most date from the 15th-18th centuries. The oldest and newest hofjes in Holland are situated next to each other in the city centre: the Hofje van Bakenes, established 1395, and the Johan Enshedéhofje, created in 2007. Most hofjes can be visited daily except Sundays, free of charge, between 10:00 and 17:00. FREE: A self-guided walking route is available at the Tourist Information Centre (VVV) with the I amsterdam City Card.
The diversity of Haarlem’s cultural venues is testament to the city’s history as a place of arts and culture. In recent years, four major cultural centres – Stadsschouwburg Haarlem, Philharmonie, Toneelschuur and Patronaat – have been renovated or rebuilt, bringing that rich history into the 21st century and acting as breeding grounds for top Dutch talent. Centrally located, the cavernous Patronaat (Zijlsingel 2, www.patronaat.nl) is Haarlem’s top music venue – and one of the best in Holland. The acoustics, enhanced by asymmetrical balconies in both the large (1,000 capacity) and small hall (300 capacity) are outstanding, and the programming diverse, running the gamut from folk and pop to psychedelia and reggae. On weekends, DJs take over after midnight. There’s also a bustling café (open Thursday-Saturday) with live bands and DJs that functions as a kind of third podium. One of the five oldest theatres in the country, Stadsschouwburg Haarlem (Wilsonsplein 23, www.theater-haarlem.nl) is the city’s municipal theatre, which reopened following extensive renovation in 2008. Affectionately dubbed ‘bonbonnière’ – a small, ornate chocolate box – by locals, the Stadsschouwburg hosts a diverse programme of plays, dance, music and cabaret. Language-no-problem theatre is limited, but dance and music productions are accessible to all. Large enough to impress yet small enough to embrace, the magnificent 19th-century Philharmonie Haarlem (Lange Begijnestraat 11, www.theater-haarlem.nl) is the city’s finest concert hall and home to the perfectly preserved late Romantic Cavaillé-Coll organ. Major symphony orchestras and classical ensembles perform here. Toneelschuur (‘theatre shed’; Lange Begijnestraat 9, www.toneelschuur.nl) has been a leading home for Dutch contemporary theatre, dance and film for more than 25 years, and offers up more contemporary dramatic fare, including its own productions under the moniker Toneelschuur Productions. It also houses the Filmschuur (‘film shed’; www.filmschuur.nl), which screens art-house movies.
Stadspark de Hout
Frans Hals Museum
TIP: Haarlem hosts many fantastic music festivals and events throughout the year, including Bevrijdingspop in May, Haarlem Jazz & More in August, Haarlem Culture Festival and Jopenfestival in September, and Kunstlijn in October. The Christmas Market brings festive cheer to the beautiful illuminated city. Check www.haarlemmarketing.nl for up-to-date programme information.
Haarlemmerhout is the oldest green monument in Holland. Located on the south side of Haarlem, ‘The Wood’, as it is popularly called, has an area of 60 acres complete with deer park, petting zoo and pancake house, and is host to great summer music festivals. Located on the edge of Haarlemmerhout, Paviljoen Welgelegen has been the seat of the government of the province of North Holland since 1930. Built in the revolutionary year 1789, it became a retreat for Napoleon and Wilhelmina of Prussia, the mother of King William I. During office hours you can take a guided tour of the period rooms.
On the Spaarne River, which winds its way through Haarlem, is the Waag (Weighing House) dating from 1599, where traders weighed cheese and butter. The Renaissance-style building has two virtually identical stone façades and characteristic round-arched and cross windows. To truly explore the River Spaarne, join a boat tour with Haarlem Canal Tours or Smidtje Canal Cruises. www.haarlemcanaltours.com www.smidtjecanalcruises.nl
TOYSHOP & CAFE Meneer
Molen de Adriaan In the heart of Haarlem, the Molen de Adriaan, originally built in 1778, is a smocked windmill that sits on the scenic River on the foundations of the tower that once defended the city centre. When it burned down in 1932, a central focal point of the city was lost. It took 70 years for local citizens to raise enough money to rebuild the mill. The view of old Haarlem from the platform above the river is not to be missed. www.molenadriaan.nl
A must-see for anyone interested in the Dutch Masters, the Frans Hals Museum celebrates arguably Haarlem’s most famous native. Housed in the poorhouse where Hals spent his final years, the collection focuses on the 17th-century Haarlem School, and boasts the world’s largest collection of paintings by Frans Hals. The jewels in the crown are the eight group portraits of the Civic Guard that reveal Hals’ exceptional attention to mood. Also look out for paintings by contemporaries including Hendrick Goltzius and Jacob van Ruisdael, Pieter Saenredam and Jan Steen. The Frans Hals Museum celebrates the spring (25 March– 21 May 2017) in glorious style with a display of real flowers in special (tulip) vases. A small accompanying exhibition of prints shows how Golden Age painters were inspired by flowers and tulipmania. www.franshalsmuseum.nl TIP: Free entrance with your I amsterdam City Card.
You will find everything related to coffee and tea at this speciality coffee shop with an espresso bar and in-shop roaster.
In a cosily industrial monumental old building that once housed horses, then cars, Portrait is a one-stop shop for creative inspiration, comprising a café, gallery and clothing and interior store. Browse the collection of Scandi-chic fashion from Samsøe & Samsøe, Selected Femme, AOCMS, L: A Bruket and Hagedornhagen, then enjoy a Zagadabi coffee and cake or homemade soup.
Dijkers Eten & Drinken
Located in two stunning listed buildings – one of which has an especially famous gable – on one of Haarlem’s most picturesque streets, Dijkers is surprisingly affordable, given the high-quality ingredients – Wagyu beef, truffles – its hip interior and cosy open fire.
GIFT SHOP & CAFE Jansje A beautiful selection of sustainable gifts from around the world, with ‘fair’ design at the heart of the concept. You’ll find upcycled oil-drum storage containers and vintage jewellery alongside new items created through social enterprise initiatives, sourced from Holland as well as Nepal, India, Brazil and Morocco. The café serves some of the best (organic) apple pie in town.
FINE DINING Ratatouille
Food & Wine
At restaurant Ratatouille Food & Wine, located in the monumental 1612 'The weapon of Gelderland' warehouse along the Spaarne River, you can enjoy a gourmet lunch or dinner. Ratatouille translates the French kitchen into the modern era with excellent quality at an affordable price in an accessible environment. The location is perfect for groups, parties and weddings. Private dining and meeting spaces are available for groups of up to 14. When the sun shines, waterside dining is available on the terrace.
BIKE RENTAL Rent
A wonderful way to explore the city, dunes and beach at your own pace: quality hire bikes only, welltrained staff who also speak English and German. Option to hire a guide. www.rentabikehaarlem.nl
LIQUOR STORE Melger's
SUSTAINABLE FASHION & LIFESTYLE
Go beyond Heineken in one of the Netherlands' premiere beer cities. In this gigantic liquor store in Haarlem you'll find a selection of over 500 beers from around the world, including Haarlem-brewed Jopen and others, plus walls of wine, local and international liquors and more.
A ‘store built on stories’, Brand Mission prides itself on its selection of unique, artisanal fashion, accessories and homeware. You won’t find anything mass-produced here; just tops made from the softest bamboo, hand-woven silk dresses and bags and accessories hand-made in workshops around the world.
Museum Het Dolhuys Housed since 2005 in a former hospice, Het Dolhuys is the national museum of psychiatry. A major attraction are the cells for the inmates, which date from the 16th century and are still intact. Het Dolhuys is an interactive museum. On display are the various personal effects of inmates of several psychiatric hospitals, as well as old treatment methods and tools used by the hospitals themselves. Visitors are encouraged to interact with the exhibits and question the boundary between sanity and insanity.
Every bibliophile’s dream, De Vries is housed in a glorious historic building and the staff understand that browsing takes time – lots of time when this many books are on offer, with a good selection of English, German, French, Italian and Spanish volumes. There’s a reading table, free WiFi, coffee and many, many books…
Experience la dolce vita at this hip café/bar/restaurant on the bustling Grote Markt. At Dodici (12 in Italian) they know how to work a theme: there are 12 tables, 12 varieties of coffee, beer and wine, and the ‘small plates’ are all under 12 euros. Open all day and into the evening, start your day with an unrivalled espresso at the reading table and finish it with superlative cocktails on the terrace.
A Mecca for the wee ones, this large toyshop has everything from Duplo to comic books and art supplies – and playing is actively encouraged. While children let rip, parents can enjoy organic, home-made goodies in the café.
Beer is definitely a religion for some, but former churchturned-brewery Jopenkerk takes it to extremes. Brewing ‘Jopen Hoppenbier’ onsite according to an old Haarlem recipe from 1501, the former Jacobskerk has been beautifully restored – with vaulted ceilings and stained glass intact – and also houses a grand café and restaurant.
The Spaarne River
A.J. van der Pigge
Haarlem is home to a vast number of great churches in addition to the imposing Grote Kerk, or St Bavokerk – most of which are worth a visit. The late 15th-century Bakenesserkerk, located northeast of the Teylers Museum, has a distinctive white stone steeple that closely resembles that of the nearby St Bavokerk. During the construction of the steeple on the St Bavokerk, the material was found to be too heavy, causing the church to creak. The steeple was dismantled and replaced with a lighter version made of wood with lead cladding. The first newly built Protestant church in Haarlem, the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), meanwhile, has a distinctive Renaissance-style steeple, built between 1613 and 1616 by the Flemish city architect Lieven de Key. The steeple was built against the former Anna Chapel, which made way for the church in 1645. This resulted in a peculiar combination of two entirely different architectural styles
Tulpomania Tour 23 MARCH–21 MAY 2017
Why not visit one of the oldest shops of Haarlem and discover the most stunning and delicious wines! www.okhuysen.nl
FASHION & LIFESTYLE Sissy-Boy
Marijke Mul FASHION, VINTAGE & LIFESTYLE
Make your next jewellery purchase extra special by watching it being made. This artisan goldsmithery has an open studio where Marijke herself imbues beauty and passion into her diverse array of personally crafted jewellery before curious eyes.
A small concept store for clothing and more, alongside brands including Just Female, Second Female, Modstrom, Civissum and Vagabond shoes you’ll find carefully selected books and magazines, cosmetics and artisanal teas.
Sissy-Boy has Dutch roots but a global attitude. The unique fashion and lifestyle brand offers more than clothes: the flagship store in Haarlem also serves a welcoming cup of coffee or a healthy lunch. The airy, open shop is worth a visit in itself. www.sissyboy.nl BooQi products are produced under license and are subject to design registrations and trademarks. © Booqi Media Solutions BV www.booqi.com NO28112/31 call +31 (0)20 7163151
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