A-mag - Amsterdam Magazine: No.4

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS JULY & AUGUST 2013

SUMMER IN THE CITY COUNTLESS FESTIVALS, URBAN BEACHES AND PARKS GALORE: RAISE A PLASTIC PICNIC GLASS TO THE MARVEL THAT IS OUTDOOR AMSTERDAM

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

N0 4 JUL & AUG 2013

A! GET OUT

Many foreign visitors to our city notice one thing immediately: the openness of our lives.

We like to be private when we’re in the smallest room in the house, but in all other activities we pretty much don’t care if you or anybody else is around. Hence the fact that many houses lack any sort of curtains. Amsterdammers who own curtains and actually hang them, hardly ever bother to close them. Hence also the fact that the entire contents of canal houses – families, dogs, furniture and food supplies – is dragged outside when the weather is ‘nice’ (any meteorological condition with temperatures over 14 degrees Celsius and no rain) for everyone to enjoy the outdoors. Openness also translates into a lack of decorum. We’re all the same in the eyes of the Almighty – and in the eyes of Amsterdam’s waiters, taxi drivers and shop assistants. We’re all the same and we’ve nothing to hide. As soon as the sun is out you’ll see people unabashedly doing unspeakable things in parks with barely any clothes on, amidst troupes getting ready for booze-ridden public barbecues.

In short, we love the outdoors. That’s why we have more outside cafés than any other city north of 48º (Paris), public parks that are busier than shopping malls and more outdoor events and festivals than you could possibly visit even if you decided to settle down for three years. To name just a few: there are three outdoor film festivals, classical concert series on the canals and in the parks, theatre and dance performances in the Vondelpark and in the Amsterdamse Bos. And all of them free of charge. Don’t ask us how and why we do it; just join us.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag.

STAY IN TOUCH: iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue, plus your chance to join the Dutch mission to Mars

P.10 UP CLOSE The city in focus: as the sun finally shines, we’re staying out for the summer with the city’s best festivals, parks and more; our expat columnist on the quirky habits of Amsterdammers

P.21 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival); our critics’ picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events; a few of fashion designer Winde Rienstra’s favourite things

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood watch: travelling the world in Oud-Oost. Plus the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés – old and new – for every taste

P.64 CLOSING Amsterdam ABC, your city need-to-know; once upon a time in Jewish Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out

P.47 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues. Plus: get out of town with our excursion tips

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jul & aug 2013

OPENING

What’s new? 

(in town)

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All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be in 2013.

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‘IN THE MORNING THE CANALS GENERALLY SMELL DISGUSTING, BUT HAVING GROWN ACCUSTOMED TO IT, FOR THE INHABITANTS IT IS THE MOST NORMAL THING IN THE WORLD.’

ENGLISH TOURIST JOHN WALKER, WRITING ABOUT A VISIT TO AMSTERDAM IN 1671.

text Toby Main

CAMERA MAN Not content with having slept in a different Amsterdam hotel each and every night of 2010 for his blog ‘Amsterdam Slaapt’ (‘Amsterdam Sleeps’), writer and trendspotter Vincent van Dijk’s latest stunt is a six-month stay in the pristine showcase home for a new housing development in the city’s Oosterdokseiland.

Nice work if you can get it, you might think, but there is a catch: Van Dijk’s every move will be broadcast live online, giving a real sense of what it’s like to live there. He’ll also be blogging about the island and its inhabitants, plus inviting fans to stay in his guest room for the night. www.odeliving.nl

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HOPKINS TO PLAY HOPS KING There is to be an Englishlanguage remake of the 2011 Dutch film The Kidnapping of Freddy Heineken, with award-winning British actor Anthony Hopkins playing the titular beer magnate.

Heineken and his chauffeur were snatched after work in Amsterdam in 1983 and held for three weeks in a warehouse ordeal that captured the imagination of the Dutch nation. The film is slated for a 2014 release.

IN HIS PRIME Dutch PM Mark Rutte has been declared the third most stylish politician in the world by glossy magazine Vanity Fair. ‘Mark Rutte looks like Pierce Brosnan… in the very best possible way,’ gushed writer Juli Weiner of the VVD politician, before praising the 46-year-old’s ‘crinkly-eyed smile and lush, impressive-on-a-20-year-old hairline’. The UK’s David Cameron scooped first place, however, proving there’s no accounting for taste. www.vanityfair.com

7 ‘THERE WILL BE LOTS OF ME SINGING MY SONGS AND LIVE SEX. I CAN PROMISE YOU NUDITY AND THE SEX WILL BE WITH MYSELF.’

‘TRULY INSPIRING TO BE ABLE TO COME HERE. ANNE WAS A GREAT GIRL. HOPEFULLY SHE WOULD HAVE BEEN A BELIEBER.’ JUSTIN BIEBER MANAGES TO MAKE THE ANNE FRANK HOUSE ALL ABOUT HIM, ON A VISIT TO AMSTERDAM IN APRIL.

MARCUS GAAB

INGE MOL

ROBBIE WILLIAMS PULLS OUT ALL THE STOPS IN A BID TO SELL TICKETS TO HIS 13 JULY SHOW AT AMSTERDAM ARENA.

DORM DELUXE

MEET THE VILLAGE PEOPLE In the 1960s, the authorities evacuated Ruigoord, a village to the west of Amsterdam, so that its harbour could be extended. The harbour plan stalled, however, and the village lay deserted until 24 July 1973, when it was squatted by a group of artists. Although squatting is illegal nowadays, the Ruigoord settlement has been legitimised and, in true bohemian style, its inhabitants hold regular full-moon parties in the church and an annual poetry festival called Fiery Tongues. They’re not going to let the squat’s 40th anniversary go unmarked, and will commemorate the occasion with a Futurological Symposium on ‘Free Cultural Spaces’ from a global perspective – as well as theatrical performances, poetry recitals, music, experimental art and spirit workshops. As you do.

24-28 July www.ruigoord.nl

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We don’t know many students lucky enough to stay in designer hotels – let alone live in them. The Student Hotel, opening mid-August, is set to change all that. A unique hybrid concept, it provides all-inclusive, fully furnished term-time accommodation for students and offers the same rooms for short stays outside the academic season, starting at a bargainous €55 per night.

Straight to the top of the class, we say. www.thestudenthotel.com

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SMART BIKE Electric bikes, with their clunky battery packs and ‘mature’ customer base, have always had something of an image problem.

Amsterdam’s urban commuting pioneer Vanmoof wants to change all that, as its nifty Vanmoof 10 Electrified nears completion. The bike’s oomph-tastic battery is hidden inside the bike frame and it features car-style GPS tracking technology. Vanmoof is looking for biking enthusiasts worldwide to help test the prototypes. http://vanmoof.com

FLYING HIGH Like any top-flight designer with an international Rolodex, influential Dutch designer Hella Jongerius is used to jetting around the world to visit clients, but recently she’s been doing it with a collection of fabric samples in her hand luggage. Jongerius was tasked with redesigning KLM Royal Dutch Airlines’ World Business Class cabin, and she was keen to see how her textiles looked in their intended context: thousands of feet in the air. Unveiled in June, the redesigned Boeing 747-400s cabins include seats that become fully flat, textiles inspired by the Milky Way and carpets made from recycled stewardess uniforms.

Dutch-born Jongerius – whose work straddles design, craft, art and technology – has taken the ‘business’ out of KLM’s business class, opting for a more personal, luxurious design, with comfort the primary concern. The textiles – those that passed the mile-high test – are variations on the KLM colour palette, while the redesigned seats offer greater privacy and comfort. And there’s good news for those of us travelling coach class: Jongerius is tackling that next.

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jul & aug 2013

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

 ‘AMSTERDAM... YOU WERE INCREDIBLE. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR HAVING US!! YOU TURNED ORANGE. SO DID WE.’

 ‘QUICK TRIP TO AMSTERDAM VISITING OUR DAUGHTER, LOVE THAT CITY!’

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ONE DIRECTION’S HARRY STYLES JOINED THE HUE AND CRY FOR QUEEN’S DAY, IN MAY.

POP LEGEND RICK ASTLEY TWEETS HIS APPROVAL, BACK IN MAY.

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www.mars-one.com

CONCRETE

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TOP 5

>

Feel like getting away from it all? Want to get off the beaten track? You’ve got until the end of August to sign up for a Dutch mission to Mars. The Mars One group plans to establish a base on the Red Planet and is currently accepting minute-long video applications via its website – and so far, they’ve received more than 78,000 posts. Shortlisted candidates will be notified in 2014.

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to do

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.

1 JULIDANS Daring dance from around the world finds its home at Julidans, the month-long festival of groundbreaking, sometimes heartbreaking, contemporary performances.

E VAN EIS

SIXTY SECONDS TO MARS

RICHARD HAUGHTON

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dam celebrates 400 years of her iconic canals, all eyes are on the massive free Prinsengracht concert, where musicians perform on a floating pontoon and locals line the canals in festive spirit.

16-25 August www.grachtenfestival.nl

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3 GAY PRIDE

For a few days each summer, the world’s most (in)famously tolerant city is a rainbow of 2-31 July events in gay and straight Stadsschouwburg  & various locations venues alike – from dance www.julidans.nl parties to film festivals, sporting events to culture. The 2 GRACHTENFESTIVAL culmination is the legendary, Taking classical music out of kitschier-than-Christmas Canal the concert hall, Amsterdam’s Parade, where boats of revelannual ‘Canal Festival’ is a ten- lers don their finest regalia. day celebration of classical 27 July-4 August music at unique and surprising various locations  locations. In the year Amster- www.amsterdamgaypride.nl

4 PLUK DE NACHT ‘Seize the night’ at the city’s annual free open-air film fest, featuring limited-release indie fare alongside experimental shorts and rare archival footage. They provide the deck chairs and blankets; you bring the picnic.

7-17 August, Het Stenen Hoofd www.plukdenacht.nl

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5 NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL

This internationally renowned jazz fest boasts big-name lineups (including Santana, Sting, John Legend and Dionne Warwick) and draws a staggering 23,000 visitors per day, making it the world’s largest indoor jazz festival – and well worth the trip to Rotterdam.

12-14 July, Ahoy Rotterdam www.northseajazz.com

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‘ARRIVED IN AMSTERDAM ACCIDENTALLY WEARING SOME SORT OF HUNTER S THOMPSON OUTFIT.’

GEERT VAN DER WIJK

KAISER CHIEFS FRONTMAN RICKY WILSON SHARES A MOMENT OF SARTORIAL REGRET.

SCALING BACK

OUT OF THE FRAME A new online presentation of 125,000 works from the Rijks Museum is encouraging users to put Old Masters in new contexts. The Rijks Studio invites members of the public to create their own masterpieces by downloading images of artworks from the collection and using them in a creative way. The ultra high-resolution pictures – including Rembrandt’s iconic ‘The Night Watch’ and masterpieces by Frans Hals and Johannes Vermeer – can be freely downloaded, zoomed in on, shared, added to personal ‘studios’ or manipulated, without users having to worry about incurring the wrath of copyright lawyers. Suggestions include creating upholstery material or wallpaper, decorating a car or pimping an iPad cover, 17th-century style. Our favourite so far? Dutch design studio Droog’s still life temporary tattoos (pictured). www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio

WHEEL GOOD Once again, Amsterdam has topped a ranking of the world’s most bike-friendly cities, as compiled each year

by Danish website Copen hagenize.com. With Amsterdam’s neighbouring Utrecht in third place and southerly Eindhoven in sixth, the Netherlands dominates the top ten. In total, the ranking is based on research carried out in 150 cities around the world. ‘Amsterdam does almost everything right,’ says the website. ‘What the city lacks in a uniform infrastructure design, it more than makes up for with its impressive saturation of bicycle traffic in the compact city centre.’ www.copenhagenize.com

The arrival of the first North Sea herring catch of the year at herring stands throughout the city had to be put back by two weeks this year because of the lousy spring weather.

A spokesperson from the Visbureau (fish marketing board) explained why the arrival had to be put back from 5 to 19 June: ‘Insufficient sunlight has left the herring with not enough plankton to eat.’

Underestimate this setback at your peril: the arrival of this delicacy is to Holland’s pescatarians what the arrival of the Beaujolais Nouveau is to the wine world. If you want to get involved, take heed from the white-coated ladies of family-run Stubbe’s Haring near Central Station: don’t dangle the thing by its tail into your gaping mouth, a practice considered most vulgar.

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PART I UP CLOSE

let’s go outside

LET’S GO OUTSIDE There’s never been a better time to experience outdoor Amsterdam.

BEST OF THE ELECTRO FESTS Amsterdam has a world-leading reputation for electronic music, and come summertime, the city’s green spaces are awash with outdoor parties. Celebrating its third edition, PITCH FESTIVAL  brings progressive electro pioneers including The Gaslamp Killer and James Blake to Westerpark; ELECTRONIC FAMILY is one of the world’s biggest outdoor trance festivals, held in the Amsterdamse Bos and with Dutch DJ Ferry Corsten headlining. Meanwhile, across town on the same day BUITEN WESTEN presents house and electro in the Westerpark, courtesy of turntablists including Joris Delacroix and Minilogue’s Sebastian Mullaert. Oosterpark’s APPELSAP  stands for fresh hip hop acts plus crate-loads of DJs, while MYSTERYLAND  offers perhaps the broadest line-up of creative events alongside the gamut of electro music.

Finally, MILKSHAKE  brings all the boys to Westerpark – and the girls, and the transgendered. Brought to you by iconic clubs AIR and Paradiso, this feel-good fest is all about tolerance.

See page 48 for details & more festival fun.

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Countless festivals, urban beaches and parks galore… summer in this city has something for everyone. text Mark Smith & Megan Roberts illustration Sanna Mander

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PITCH FESTIVAL © BART HEEMSKERK

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A

STAYING OUT FOR THE SUMMER

s residents and tourists jostle in their droves for a place in the sun around Amsterdam’s coveted canal-side café tables, it’s hard to conceive of the fact that, in the 17th and 18th centuries, Golden Age city dwellers of all stripes would do pretty much everything in their power to escape this city during summer.

‘It was considered a dangerous season to be in Amsterdam,’ says Dr Kees Zandvliet, head of research at Amsterdam Museum. ‘Before the advent of modern sanitation, the city smelled of rotting meat when it got hot, and there was an increased risk of plague.’

Fearing stench and pestilence, the rich would retreat to summer homes outside the city. The urban poor of the Jordaan, meanwhile, had to make do with long walks along the banks of the Amstel River or out to the leafy village of Sloterdijk, where so-called ‘houses of entertainment’ were happy to relieve them of their hardearned guilders.

More family-friendly summer pursuits could be enjoyed at inner-city ‘pleasure gardens’ such as the Oude Doolhof – a sort of 17th-century Disneyland on the corner of Prinsengracht and Looiersgracht. Here, fountains, mazes and puppet shows would distract city dwellers from the sweltering heat. The wooden David and Goliath figures on display in the Schuttersgalerij of the Amsterdam Museum were, according to Zandvliet, ‘the equivalents of Mickey and Minnie Mouse of the 17th century’.

PARK LIFE Parks got serious in the mid-19th century, when Amsterdam expanded beyond its former boundary, the Singelgracht. Wary of ‘urban sprawl’, an alderman by the name of Samuel Sarphati campaigned for spaces that would preserve a sense of nature in the capital. ‘Sarphati was absolutely pivotal in creating green spaces, mainly for the benefit of the poor, who didn’t have the means to venture far beyond the city,’ says Marc Hameleers, map expert at the

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PART I UP CLOSE

let’s go outside

HORTUS FESTIVAL Providing a beautiful way to spend a balmy yet cultured summer evening, the Hortus Festival – this year celebrating its tenth edition – brings classical music to Amsterdam’s historic botanical gardens (and Leiden, Utrecht and Haren).

Highlights this year include a unique performance of Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du Printemps rearranged for four pianos and the Berlage Saxophone Quartet with a homage to saxophonist William Raaijman, the founder of the Hortus Festival who unexpectedly passed away in 2007. See page 58.

Amsterdam’s answer to Burning Man, Magneet Festival is a crowd-sourced initiative, with ‘no spectators, only participators’. For four packed weekends, the Oostpunt grounds in Amsterdam Oost host an eclectic mix of live music, theatre performances, experimental constructions, art and more. Confirmed acts include Amsterdam popslash-electro exponent Pien Feith; gritty Groningen trio WOLVON, who churn out a hybrid of post-punk noise and hazy dream-pop; English indie-rockers Mazes and more.

23 August-15 Sptember Oostpunt www.magneetfestival.nl

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ARTHUR DE SCHMIDT

MAGNEET FESTIVAL

18 July-22 August (Amsterdam) Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2a www.hortusfestival.nl

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13

PARK LIFE

Stadsarchief (City Archives).

As public transport improved throughout the 1800s, outlying areas of town – such as the vicinity of the Museumplein, with its far-famed Pomona tree nursery – became attractive places to live. Similarly, the Plantage to the east combined the advantages of city living with the greenery of the countryside, becoming the location for respected institutions of learning and recreation such as the Artis Zoo, which celebrates its 175th anniversary this year with its customary ZOOmeravonden music concerts.

From the stately Vondelpark with its summertime programme of open-air dance and theatre performances (www.openlucht theater.nl) to the small-but-perfectlyformed Sarphatipark, an oasis of calm in the bustling, multicultural De Pijp, there are some 30 municipal parks in Amsterdam today, and collectively they occupy 12 per cent of the city’s surface area. Hameleers is in no doubt as to whom we should be grate-

ful as we laze on the grass or rollerblade alongside Instagram-ready duck ponds: ‘They couldn’t name all the parks after Sarphati, but there’s no underestimating his influence.’

GREEN FINGERS ‘A city that has no room for the child is a diabolical thing,’ wrote Aldo van Eyck of his motivation for transforming Amsterdam’s pockmarked post-WWII cityscape into a network of inspiring adventure playgrounds for its youngest inhabitants. From 1947, the young architect persuaded the city’s Department of Public Works to convert 700 derelict lots into small neighbourhood playgrounds to satisfy the baby boom. Van Eyck’s sleek climbing frames, lauded as modernist works of art, have since been replaced, but playgrounds remain on several of his sites – including his first, the OudZuid’s Bertelmanplein – and his legacy survives too in the recent boom in community

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  

THERE ARE SOME 30 MUNICIPAL PARKS IN AMSTERDAM...

Amsterdam has some 30 municipal parks, ranging from the sprawling to the perfectly petite. Vondelpark  is the city’s green lungs, attracting over nine million visitors a year, while industrial Westerpark is a regeneration success story. Oosterpark  and nearby Park Frankendael are often less crowded than their central counterparts, and Amstelpark is especially family friendly. Sarphatipark is the most urban of the city’s parks and boasts exotic species such as date and fig trees growing wild, their seeds having been carried over from the nearby Albert Cuyp Market. www.iamsterdam.com

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let’s go outside

PART I UP CLOSE

AMSTERDAM‘S BIGGEST OUTDOOR DRAW WAS BORN OF DEEPEST GLOOM. (Amsterdamse Bos) vegetable gardens, such as the westerly Bellamytuin, also home to a street-art gallery.

For Maaike Behm of ARCAM Amsterdam Centre for Architecture, the beauty of 21st-century Amsterdam is that it evolved into a playground for old and young. Last year she exhibited a series of photographs celebrating urban leisure activities including images of children diving from the quays of the Eastern Docklands: ‘From city beaches such as the original one at Blijburg to the popular new outdoor bars Hannekes Boom and Roest, which has a summer-long cultural programme, Amsterdammers have taken urban structures into their own hands, using them for sport and leisure in ways the original town planners could never have envisaged.’

In 2012, the sprawling Westerpark – already host to open-air cinema, sculpture trail and the razzmatazz of July’s Amsterdam Fashion Week (see page 29) – became the first park in the Netherlands to offer free outdoor Wi-Fi. So, as you send emails from what was once a post-industrial wasteland amid the boggy wetlands of Northern Europe, raise a plastic picnic glass to the marvel that is outdoor Amsterdam. Until the rain comes, that is…

 

 

NORTH SEA BEACHES The Dutch coast is renowned for its wide beaches, extensive dunes and vibrant beach cafés and restaurants in all shapes and sizes – hip and trendy in Bloemendaal ; lively and pleasant in Zandvoort.  The former (pictured) is especially popular with trendy sun-worshippers, and by night feels like Ibiza – although admittedly not quite as balmy. Zandvoort, meanwhile, is part of a nature reserve complete with abundant water sports facilities where you can be as active or relaxed as you like. www.iamsterdam.com

> ROOTS OPEN-AIR This world and roots music festival brings international stars – from Mali, Congo, Tunisia, Zimbabwe, Mexico and South Korea – to various locations across Amsterdam, and culminates in a huge open-air party in Oosterpark.

Dance workshops, children’s entertainment, clothing stalls and a seemingly endless supply of mouth-watering food stalls will no doubt keep you – and the whole family – there for the whole day.

7 July Oosterpark http://amsterdamroots.nl

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GAY PRIDE Out, loud and fabulously proud, Amsterdam Gay Pride is an epic celebration of the city’s dedication to equality for the gay, lesbian and transgender communities.

A rainbow of events takes place across town – from street parties and film fests to the infamous Drag Queen Olympics, where contestants compete in such disciplines as the Handbag Toss (heels mandatory). The culmination is Sunday’s riotously colourful Canal Parade along the Prinsengracht and Amstel River.

27 July-4 August Various locations www.amsterdamgaypride.nl

AMSTERDAMSE BOS Three times the size of New York’s Central Park, Amsterdam’s biggest outdoor draw, the Amsterdamse Bos, was born of deepest gloom. At the peak of the 1930s depression, with some 50,000 Amsterdammers seeking employment, the municipality kickstarted job creation via the digging of the Bosbaan – a world-class waterway for rowing – and the planting of surrounding forests, now home to 150 variants of foreign and native trees and a rich birdlife. Subsequent attractions have arrived in the shape of swimming pools, a pancake house and goat farm. They owe their existence in part to the blood, sweat and tears of the 20,000 Amsterdammers who worked on the project between 1934 and 1940. www.amsterdamsebos.nl

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PART I

let’s go outside

UP CLOSE

OUT, LOUD AND FABULOUSLY PROUD!

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(Amsterdam Gay Pride)

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FOODIES AL FRESCO Young or old, fresh or hungover, everyone who’s fond of good food and good company comes together at the monthly NeighbourFood Market at the Westergasfabriek, where organic producers tout their wares.

Bring your own crockery and pull up a chair to one of the communal tables. De Puur Markt (Pure Market) is a similar concept: pure products sold by the producers themselves. Food doesn’t get much slower than this.

NeighbourFood Market Westergasfabriek http://neighbourfoodmarket.nl.

Puurmarkt Amstelpark & Park Frankendael www.puremarkt.nl

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SARIS & DEN ENGELSMAN



LIFE’S A BEACH

OVER HET IJ

You don’t need to leave the city to feel sand between your toes: check out one of Amsterdam’s urban options.

Head east to self-dubbed ‘creative refuge’ Amsterdam Roest, which is hipster central during a Sunday barbecue, Friday night DJ session, occasional art market or impromptu film screening.

The Over het IJ theatre festival – so-called because all performances take place across the IJ in bleeding-edge cool Amsterdam-Noord – brings a summery blend of site-specific theatre, DJs and fabulous food to a former industrial shipping yard. Some performances will be in Dutch; all will be quirky and brimming with energy; many will be accessible to all, with language no problem.

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Czaar Peterstraat 213b www.amsterdamroest.nl Check www.iamsterdam.com for more city beaches and see pages 34-38 for more adventure in Oost.

4-14 July NDSM-werf www.overhetij.nl

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PART I

17

UP CLOSE

When in Amsterdam…

After 16 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

JOIN THE CHAIN GANG

I Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

love my bakfiets. You’ll notice them around town in all their glorious variations: two-wheeled, tricycle-style (like ours, and perhaps many other non-natives who were hesitant about their abilities to balance 70 kilos on two wheels alone), boxshaped, trapezoid, red-coloured, army camouflage, zoo-themed and even branded.

These cargo bikes (think ice-cream cart without the frozen confections, motored by a tired, high-heeled mother in the driver’s seat) are the preferred mode of transport for Amsterdam mums, used to haul the kids, the groceries, the family dog – even the new dining room chairs – from point A to Z. I hear we have quite a reputation, us Amsterdam Bakfiets Mothers: car drivers know to pull over when they see one of us barrelling down the street. I secretly harbour the desire to slam into the side of a vehicle that has failed the mandatory stop at the zebra crossing (and I’d do it if my cargo weren’t so precious). It’s a fight I think I would win.

I love my bakfiets so much that when it was stolen last year, I went on an undercover sting operation with Amsterdam’s finest to

retrieve it. We didn’t manage to nail the thieves, but my family got back our precious vehicle and me the playground moniker Undercover Mother.

But I fear our bakfiets days are numbered.

My girls are now eight and ten years old, their combined weight more than that of an average sized adult (even a long Dutch one).

My oldest can now bike me in it. Add to that this winter’s heavy snow (another five centimetres of resistance) and a blustery spring (another 20 knots of resistance), and it was a tough season for my ageing, nonDutch legs. But I recommend you try your hand (um, feet) at it. You can rent a bakfiets at many bike rental shops in the city, including MacBike and WorkCycles. And at least one Amsterdam hostelry, the Bicycle Hotel in De Pijp, lets guests make use of their (branded) ones for a small fee. There’s no better way to schlep your tired toddlers, or that cumbersome picnic gear, around town than by going native.

And who knows? If you’re interested in the ultimate Dutch souvenir, look me up. Maybe I’ll let mine go. Although it’s a rite of passage I’m not sure I’m ready for. <

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ADVERTORIAL

I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD

jul & aug 2013

JOHN LEWIS MARCHALL

In 2013, Amsterdam celebrates the city’s iconic institutions in style. See them all – for free or with a discount – with the I amsterdam City Card.

VAN GOGH MUSEUM 

RIJKSMUSEUM OPEN 

The Van Gogh Museum is one of the major milestones of the Amsterdam 2013 celebrations. This year marks 40 years since the institution first opened on Museumplein, as well as the 160th anniversary of Vincent van Gogh’s birth. In celebration, the museum presents the extensive exhibition Van Gogh at Work. Featuring 200 paintings, drawings and letters, it brings to life his artistic development and marks the culmination of nearly a decade of research into his methods and development.

After a decade of unprecedented renovation, Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, home to a host of Rembrandts and Vermeers, finally showed off its new (and old) look in April 2013. Inspired by venerable French museums like the Louvre, the Rijksmuseum (meaning: ‘state museum’) had been founded in The Hague in 1800 to house treasures from the Golden Age, and was moved to Amsterdam at the behest of King Louis Bonaparte in 1808.

It eventually moved into the grand PJH Cuypers-designed Museumplein building.

VAN GOGH AT WORK

FREE admission with the I amsterdam City Card

A GOLDEN AGE TREASURE TROVE

With an entirely refreshed layout, fully renovated building, new public facilities, newly landscaped garden and Rembrandt’s iconic ‘The Night Watch’ returning to its original gallery, 80 halls now display 8,000 pieces of art and history – more than even the most fervent museum visitor can digest in one day.

Get a €2.50 DISCOUNT on presentation of the of the special voucher you receive with the I amsterdam City Card

HIGHLIGHTS WITH YOUR I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD:

CANAL CRUISING

VISIT THE ZAANSE SCHANS

VISIT HAARLEM

If you’re visiting for the first time, a canal cruise is an excellent introduction to the city’s many sights. There are a number of departure points throughout the city and the tours are available in many languages.

With traditional houses and windmills the Zaanse Schans offers a preserved glimpse of what it was like to live in the Zaan area in the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the characteristic houses are now museums, shops or demonstrate traditional crafts.

Truly a city for fans of all things cultural, Haarlem has a rich history with large churches, a cathedral, windmills, an impressive city hall and the famous Haarlem hofjes (courtyards) – and don’t forget the museums!

FREE canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card (choose between Holland International or Blue Boat Company)

FREE admission with your I amsterdam City Card to various museums and windmills

FREE admission to the Frans Hals Museum, Teylers Museum and Dolhuys Museum with your I amsterdam City Card

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The history of art is written with Dutch names.

A visit to some of Amsterdam’s world-class museums demontrates why.

STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

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HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM 

DE NIEUWE KERK 

A highlight of the Netherlands-Russia 2013 celebrations, the Hermitage Amsterdam presents a major exhibition devoted to Peter the Great. By the time he took power at the age of 17, Peter was determined to transform his country. Before long he had turned Russia into a great power.

This sweeping exhibition uses historical artefacts, paintings, gold jewellery from the ancient world, weapons and unique documents to sketch the life of this peerless ruler.

For exactly 100 days, Inaugurated! focuses on the festive, ceremonial inaugurations of seven generations of the Orange-Nassau family. This unique exhibition allows visitors to relive inaugurations of yesteryear using major loaned pieces including royal garments, historical artefacts and a host of images. The historic church itself also plays a leading role in the exhibition, with its numerous reminders of its special relationship with the House of Orange and the Netherlands.

PETER THE GREAT

FREE admission with the I amsterdam City Card

A lot of Amsterdam

INAUGURATED!

FREE admission with the I amsterdam City Card

>

EXPLORE EVERYTHING AMSTERDAM HAS TO OFFER WITH THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD. Visit world-class museums, take a cruise through the charming canals and sample the local delicacies – all for free or with a significant discount.

• Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport • Free canal cruise • 25 per cent discount on attractions • 25 per cent discount on food & drink …and more

Our new city card campaign is out now.

Discover Amsterdam at a discount, see right for details.

I amsterdam City Card for 24 hours – €42 I amsterdam City Card for 48 hours – €52 I amsterdam City Card for 72 hours – €62

The I amsterdam City Card is available at Amsterdam Tourist Offices, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see www. iamsterdamcitycard. com

Welcome!

jul & aug 2013 22 24 29 30

ENTERTAINMENT

‘THIS FESTIVAL GIVES A GOOD VIEW OF THE BEAUTY OF THE CITY, CANALS AND MUSIC, ARCHITECTURE AND CULTURE…’ Lidy Klein Gunnewiek, general director of the Grachtenfestival

‘I IDENTIFY TWO KINDS OF PEOPLE IN THE AUDIENCE: THOSE WHO WANT TO BE ENTERTAINED AND THOSE WHO WANT TO KNOW HOW IT WORKS. TO THE FIRST GROUP I SAY, “HAVE A GOOD NIGHT”; TO THE SECOND, “GOOD LUCK.”’ Illusionist Hans Klok

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GRACHTENFESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS 13 QUESTIONS FILM

BOWIE BY DUFFY – PHOTOGRAPHS ’72 –’80 Exclusive photos of David Bowie, taken by the late great fashion photographer Brian Duffy. Duffy worked with Bowie on five projects between 1972 and 1980 – including three of the artist’s most famous album covers. The exhibition uses a variety of prints, contact sheets, Polaroids, original album covers, photographs from the film The Man Who Fell to Earth and several personal objects from the Duffy archive to give an unrivalled insight into the creative process of both the musician and the photographer.

UNTIL 6 OCTOBER &FOAM Vijzelstraat 78 www.foam.org

DAVID BOWIE, SCARY MONSTERS (& SUPER CREEPS), NO. 6, 1980 © DUFFY ARCHIVE

PART II

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classics on the canals

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Classics on the canals

Taking classical music out of the concert hall, Amsterdam’s Grachtenfestival is the centrepiece of the Canal Ring’s 400th anniversary celebrations.

JANNES LINDERS

text Megan Roberts

T

hey may have one of the world’s best-loved concert halls on their doorstep, but for ten days each August, Amsterdammers forget that classical music is usually the preserve of the plush and the grand, and that world-class performers command worldclass ticket prices.

Instead, they squash together cheek by jowl, young and old, on deck chairs lining the city’s canals or in historic private residences where they rub shoulders with the young musicians they’ve

come to see perform.

Such is the charm of the city’s annual Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival), a unique – and uniquely accessible – celebration of both classical music and Amsterdam’s distinctive aquatic architecture that attracted more than 53,000 visitors last year.

THE CITY AS STAGE In the year in which Amsterdam celebrates the 400th anniversary of her Canal Ring, the Grachtenfestival is the uncontended highligh.

‘This festival gives a wonder-

ful view of the beauty of the city, canals and music, architecture and culture,’ says general director Lidy Klein Gunnewiek of the festival’s enduring popularity.

A fixture of the city’s summer scene since 1997, from the very outset the Grachtenfestival has provided a platform for talented young musicians, as well as opening classical music up to a new audience with affordable tickets and plenty of free performances – including the festival’s most popular event, the Prinsen-

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join the 2013 party CONCERTS IN THE PARK

Concerts in the Park

Heritage Days

Keti Koti Festival

To celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2013, the Royal Concertgebouw hosts a number of bigname classical, pop and world music performances broadcast live in public parks around the city. The world-renowned Buena Vista Social Club has sold out the Royal Concertgebouw on 27 July with their rich blend of Latin themes, but you can catch it for free in Erasmuspark. On 14 August The Nationale Reisopera will perform a host of popular Italian arias, broadcast live on a big screen in the Flevopark.

Pack a picnic and enjoy the party.

27 July, Erasmuspark 14 August, Flevopark www.concertgebouw.nl

gracht Concert (Saturday 24 August), performed on a floating pontoon against a backdrop of 17th-century canal houses.

Locations are unique and unexpected, with 20 new ones added this edition – from canal-house rooftops to urban marine land and nightlife Mecca Rembrandtplein, which sets aside the electro and dance music to present three red-hot evenings of tango from the respected Malando Orchestra.

‘We also have musical theatre productions in topical

EDWIN VAN EIS

JOHN LEWIS MARSHALL

AMSTERDAM HERITAGE DAYS

places,’ enthuses Klein Gunnewiek, ‘including a new libretto about Peter the Great performed in the gardens of the Hermitage Amsterdam, a satellite of the St Petersburg art institution that the Tsar himself founded.’ It’s especially fitting in the year the Netherlands celebrates its rich historic connection with Russia.

Especially for Amsterdam’s year of landmark anniversaries, in 2013 the Grachtenfestival presents the festive Composers’ Dinner.

Two 80-metre tables will be

laid on a floating pontoon on the Keizersgracht canal, and for €57 you can enjoy a three-course meal while being serenaded with music composed especially for the occasion by, among others, David Dramm, Vincent van Warmerdam and Harry de Wit. With musicians bobbing up the canal – and even snaking down the centre of the dining table itself – this is classical music, but not as we know it…

16-25 August www.grachtenfestival.nl

Granting special access to some of the city’s most dazzling – but usually hidden – gems, Amsterdam Heritage Days 2013 is a four-part open-door extravaganza celebrating the 400th jubilee of the stately Canal Ring that brought the city such prosperity during the Golden Age. This edition, explore the influence of the 19th century: urban design, home comforts and an uncontrollable lust for decoration.

Visit the Gothic Revival church Krijtberg on the Singel or put a foot over the threshold at residences along the Herengracht and Keizersgracht, usually closed to the public.

14 July, various locations www.iamsterdam.com/heritagedays

KETI KOTI FESTIVAL AND SLAVERY REMEMBRANCE The famed Dutch tolerance, it is little known, applied mainly to ways of making money. If that involved trading other people against their will, the Dutch had no scruples about it. 1 July 1863 marked the abolition of slavery in the former Dutch colonies of Suriname and the Netherlands Antilles, and this ugly past is commemorated each year in the Oosterpark, where the National Slavery Monument stands. After the solemn ceremony comes the party: the riotously colourful Keti Koti Festival, comprising film, music, exhibitions and a street fair.

1 July, Oosterpark www.ketikotiamsterdam.nl

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Attitude dancing

Daring dance from around the world finds its home at Julidans, the month-long festival of groundbreaking – sometimes heartbreaking – contemporary performances. text Toby Main

D

on’t go to Julidans expecting a polite pas de deux. That’s the statement conveyed loud and clear by the posters and programme booklet for this year’s edition of the renowned international modern dance festival: a messy plasticine heart spiked with a hundred steel nails.

Anita van Dolen, the festival’s programme director, says that the Julidans team was looking for an image to reflect the emotional clout of this year’s festival: ‘Like music, dance is a medium which makes a direct appeal to the emotions. And when we put together the programme for this year, we were looking for thought-provoking, sometimes even confrontational performances and performers. I think we’ve found an image that reflects that.’

With the possible exception of one piece – Sfumato by choreographer Rachid Ouramdane and writer Sonio Chambretto, throughout which six dancers are assailed by ever-worsening meteorological phenomena (hello, climate change!) – none of the performers involved in this year’s Julidans have a simple ‘message’ to hammer home, however.

‘The 2012 edition of Julidans was quite political,’ recalls Van Dolen. ‘We had performances that dealt with change in the Middle East, for example – and of course Dave St Pierre was quite explicit in his message.’

‘Explicit’ being the operative word when talking about St Pierre. Last year’s Julidans opened with a world premiere from the Canadian tearaway which featured charac-

RICHARD HAUGHTON

DISABLED THEATRE Sure to offer food for thought is Disabled Theatre by Jérôme Bel and Theater HORA, in which a group of actors with conditions such as Down’s syndrome take the spotlight to address their audience directly, then dance to their favourite music: ‘We are taught not to stare at people with disabilities,’ says Van Dolen, ‘but Bel really forces us to consider the person behind the performance.’

5 & 6 JULY Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 29 www.julidans.nl

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don’t miss these 

UITMARKT

teristic acres of human flesh and simulated bleeding, which, safe to say, wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea.

Clothed, and closing this year’s Julidans, is Akram Khan, the successful British-Bengali choreographer who has gained affection all over the world with work that looks for similarities between ostensibly differing disciplines and cultures. His new piece, iTMOi (‘In the Mind of Igor’), explores the classical Indian Kathak dance that Khan was taught as a boy, as well as the modern, Western dance he studied later in life. Inspired by Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring, which caused uproar upon its debut in Paris, let’s hope Khan’s piece is simply praiseworthy – as opposed to riotworthy.

JULIDANS NEXT But it’s not just the big names that matter at Julidans. One of the sidebar programmes is Julidans Next, a platform for the upcoming generation of performers, many of them recommended by more established participants in the festival. For example, choreographer Gunilla Heilborn, whose hot ticket Alaska explores the often futile desire to ‘get away from it all’, has brought along multitalented Swedish duo Lisa Östberg & Kim Hiorthøy, who’ll perform You, with the brilliant tag line ‘You do it, we don’t have time’, at rock venue Melkweg. They’ll also be DJ’ing at the Julidans opening party. No wonder they’re so busy…

URSULA K AUFMANN

2-31 JULY Various locations www.julidans.nl

Attracting upwards of 450,000 visitors annually, the Uitmarkt, which marks the beginning of a new cultural season after the summer recess, is one of the Netherlands’ most enduring and popular cultural events. This familyfriendly, free festival features more than 450 performances by some 2,000 artists on a giant stage that’s erected especially for the occasion on the Museumplein. Elsewhere, cultural institutions set out their stalls – quite literally – for the year ahead, offering a preview of their schedules and special offers for cultural early birds.

From classical to kid-friendly, hip hop to dance and theatre to jazz, there really is something for everyone here.

CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

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30 AUGUST-1 SEPTEMBER Museumplein & Leidseplein www.uitmarkt.nl

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DEATH IN VENICE Taboos pervade Benjamin Britten’s final and much-discussed opera, adapted from Thomas Mann’s famous novella of the same name: the doomed passion that a troubled writer harbours for a fellow hotel guest, and the cholera epidemic which the authorities are all too keen to cover up. Together the English National Opera Chorus and the Rotterdam Philharmonic Orchestra deliver a haunting theatrical experience of undeniable power. Under the spell of the decadent, sensual Italian city and in the shadow of illness, the author’s captivation soon becomes a deadly obsession. This unforgettable performance is in English, with Dutch surtitles.

3-7 JULY, HET MUZIEKTHEATER Waterlooplein 22 www.het-muziektheater.nl

GIGS GALORE It’s a bumper couple of months for Amsterdam’s live music scene. Kicking things off at the Heineken Music Hall on 2 July is Frank Ocean, the R&B star whose solo debut Channel Orange changed the face of R&B with its references to same-sex attraction. If you prefer rock over pop, catch one of the genre’s all-time greatest bands reliving its peak: Roger Daltrey and Pete Townshend of The Who play legendary 1973 double album Quadrophenia all the way through on 5 July at Ziggo Dome. Then cheeky Brit Robbie Williams takes up the pop baton on 13 July, performing at Amsterdam ArenA with special guest (and X Factor finalist) Olly Murs.

VARIOUS DATES & LOCATIONS www.amsterdamarena.nl www.heineken-music-hall.nl www.ziggodome.nl

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Party in the park A travelling theatre festival featuring music, magic and more, De Parade is an in-tents and electrifying experience.

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JAAP REEDIJK

text Toby Young

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I

t’s safe to say that Amsterdam wasn’t at the back of the queue when they were handing out the parks. And although the picnic-perfect Vondelpark has its charms, the lesser-known Martin Luther Kingpark wipes the floor with its more famous cousin when it comes to cultural quirks.

Every summer, this small but perfectly formed green space hosts De Parade travelling theatre festival. With its spontaneous, ragtag vibe and oldschool carnival appeal, De Parade sees locals descending en masse to imbibe litres of rosé, hang out under a canopy of trees, feast from an array of food trucks and catch a performance or two.

A smorgasbord of quirky, small-scale performances (previous editions have featured a ghoulish, undead rockabilly band and a dance piece based on the eight-year ordeal of kidnapped Austrian schoolgirl Natascha Kampusch), half the appeal of De Parade is taking a chance on something new and off the wall. That said, there are some seasoned De Parade veterans on the bill.

Cabaret star Freek de Jonge will perform songs from his new album. Also returning is ebullient singer Nik van den Berg, whose English-language God Have Mercy On My Funk show, reprised for De Parade, brought the house down at Melkweg last summer.

Performances that are ‘language no problem’ are clearly signposted, and for those who appreciate body language, the festival offers up a rich seam of dance. A case in point: Deleted Scenes

by Club Guy & Roni, which sees progressive choreography by Edan Gorlicki set to live DJ beats. For those with children in tow, the afternoon is the time to set them loose on an array of antics which, in past editions, have included riding miniature digger trucks. In terms of switching kids on to cult-ure, it doesn’t get much cooler than this.

9-25 AUGUST MARTIN LUTHER KINGPARK www.deparade.nl

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featured artist ‘Things can always go wrong, but you shouldn’t think about it too much. Fear is your worst counsellor...’

don’t miss these AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEK Sashaying into town twice a year amid a flurry of air kisses, lap dogs and champagne, Amsterdam Fashion Week brings together the cream of the international fashion scene to showcase their vision of future fashion trends. But don’t worry if you’re not lucky enough to have a front-row seat. The Downtown programming is especially for us hoi polloi, encompassing more stylish events – pop-up stores, exhibitions, fashion shows and themed walking tours – than you can shake your Jimmy Choos at. See page 29 for participating fashion designer Winde Rienstra’s top tips for getting the most out of Amsterdam.

6-16 JULY Various locations www.amsterdamfashionweek.com

HANS KLOK, ILLUSIONIST Born: 22 February 1969 (age 44) Talent: Unashamedly cheesy, big-budget, Vegas-style bemulletted illusionist, selfdubbed ‘the new Houdini’ Performs: 16 July-25 August, Royal Theater Carré  ‘It is quite remarkable that the art of illusion is still so alive. With the amount of information available to people today, you can assume that some of your audience has already googled how tricks are put together at home. But that simply makes people appreciate the performance all the more. I identify two kinds of people in the audience: those who want to be entertained and those who want to know how it works. To the first group I say, “Have a good night”; to the second, “Good luck.”’

One of Chekhov’s defining achievements, The Seagull dramatises the romantic and artistic conflicts between the ingénue Nina, the fading actress Irina Arkadina, her son the symbolist playwright Konstantin Tréplev and the famous but middlebrow writer Trigorin. A cocktail of hidden desires, motives and frustrations, the work exhibits all of the qualities that helped to cement the Russian playwright in the minds and hearts of theatregoers worldwide.

German-born Thomas Ostermeier returns as guest director at Toneelgroep Amsterdam, Holland’s foremost theatre company, and all performances have English surtitles.

JAN VERSVEYWELD

THE SEAGULL

14-23 AUGUST, STADSSCHOUWBURG www.ssba.nl Leidseplein 26

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PHOTOSYNTHESIS: A NEW LIGHT ON PLANTS The 100-year-old Palm Greenhouse of the Amsterdam Botanical Gardens hosts a summer photography and film exhibition of 100 works – most of which have been especially created – by Amsterdam artists collective ‘Tropisme’. Images of plant life are captured using unusual – often scientific – techniques, including infrared, X-ray and microscope lenses. The result is a unique collection of fascinating, often alienating images that are surprisingly beautiful, and which shed new light on plants. The works are for sale in limited editions.

UNTIL 15 SEPTEMBER HORTUS BOTANICUS Plantage Middenlaan 2a http://dehortus.nl

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Looking forward to looking back

In the year it turns 125, the Concertgebouw revisits key moments from its illustrious past. text Steven McCarron

Comedytrain International Summer Festival All aboard! Toomler is Anglophone comedy central this summer. text Toby Main

‘W

hy did the chicken cross the Hilton Hotel car park?

Most probably to get to the other side, where a boozy, bunker-like comedy club called Toomler is one of Amsterdam’s best-kept secrets.

‘Toomler’ is Yiddish for ‘creator of comic tumult’ and, for most of the year, the eponymous subterranean hang-out (think neon signage, exposed brickwork and a menu of beer-absorbent classics) is home to Dutch comedy and music stars looking to record intimate ‘live’ albums and DVDs. Now in its 20th edition, the Comedytrain International Summer Festival sees home-grown favourites relinquishing the mic to an array of touring Englishlanguage comics, many of whom have long associations with Toomler. A case in point is Canadian Glenn Wool (1013 July), whose freewheeling material veers between the sagely political and gleefully

silly, discussing everything from art-school rockers to the Pope’s contribution to cryogenics programmes.

Coordinator Daphne Gautier says the brief for this year’s hilarity was ‘to surprise audiences by booking talents that will be famous in a few years and by convincing well-known favourites to return’. Appropriately, two American comics are booked for the weekend of 4 July. Ali Wong’s popularity on Twitter is snowballing thanks to her flippant way with 140 characters (‘Every time a friend announces they’re pregnant, all I really hear is, “Goodbye forever until you have a parasite of your own”’) whereas Yannis Pappas (pictured) is known for his popular characters including ‘Mr Panos’, owner of the Socrates Diner in Queen’s, New York. An appropriately star-spangled line-up.

UNTIL 27 JULY, TOOMLER Breitnerstraat 2 www.comedytrain.nl

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er Christian Scott (pictured) recreates the music of Miles Davis, again supported by the Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw. Davis was renowned for his late-night shows and twice performed in the Royal Concertgebouw after hours. Fittingly, Scott’s performance begins at one minute to midnight.

August sees us move into the Sixties, with Belgian troubadour Filip Jordens covering the works of the man to whom a large portion of his career has been an homage: chanteur Jacques Brel.

On the 24th is a tribute to Aretha Franklin, performed

by Dutch pop diva Trijntje Oosterhuis. It’s hard to believe that the uncontended Queen of R&B and soul didn’t perform outside of the United States until 1968.

That first international show was – you’ve guessed it – in Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw.

Who knew history lessons could be so entertaining?

3 & 20 JULY, 2 & 24 AUGUST ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl

 KIEL SCOTT

O

nce praised by conductor Bernard Haitink as the finest instrument of the orchestra which is lucky enough to call the place home, Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw celebrates its 125th anniversary by revisiting iconic concerts from the past, decade by decade.

In July, we’re taken back to the 1950s and the arrival of jazz in the venerable concert hall, with performances by modern talents playing old standards.

On the third, American jazz vocalist Kurt Elling – who has a reputation as one of jazz’s all-time great vocalists – hooks up with the Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw for a night dedicated to the ultimate crooner: Ol’ Blue Eyes and the sounds of swing. Sinatra himself played the Concertgebouw many times – including one memorable occasion post-‘retirement’ when the concert hall’s front row was graced by none other than Elizabeth Taylor.

On 20 July, fiendishly gifted young New Orleans trumpet-

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13 questions Ahead of her show at July’s Fashion Week, designer Winde Rienstra gives you her take on Amsterdam.

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text Megan Roberts

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‘We are amusingly direct’ 1. WHAT’S YOUR FIRST AMSTERDAM MEMORY? My earliest memory of Amsterdam is a tram ‘incident’ when I was a little girl. I got off one stop too soon, while my mother and my little brother where still on the tram. The doors closed behind me and the tram went off. My mother pulled the emergency brake while I was screaming outside. This was one stop away from the Waterlooplein flea market.

2. FAVOURITE AMSTERDAM-RELATED WORK OF ART? ‘De Rode Kimono’, 1893, by Dutch ‘painter of the people’ George Hendrik Breitner.  3. WHAT’S YOUR MODE OF TRANSPORT? The bike if you have to go anywhere quick in a hurry – or the famous Amsterdam gondola [the only one in the city; http:// www.gondel.nl] if you want to

enjoy the good weather and the canals in the most relaxed way.

4. WHAT SHOULD SOMEONE DO WITH A SINGLE DAY IN AMSTERDAM? Just get lost. Spontaneously strolling around and being aware of the things that cross your path is the nicest way to experience this city.

5. FAVOURITE STATUE IN THE CITY? The statue of Atlas on the rooftop of the Royal Palace of Amsterdam on Dam square.  I always liked the story of Atlas carrying the celestial sphere on his shoulders.

6. IN WHICH BUILDING WOULD YOU LIKE TO SPEND THE NIGHT? Anywhere in the city centre with a high rooftop garden, just absorbing the sounds of the city and enjoying both sunset and sunrise.

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7. TELL US SOMETHING ABOUT THE CITY WE DON’T ALREADY KNOW. How beautiful the fabric shop A. Boeken on the Nieuwe Hoogstraat (http://aboeken.nl) is. It’s a family-run business that’s been selling material and haberdashery since 1920. And the staff are so friendly.  8. WHERE‘S THE BEST VIEW OF AMSTERDAM? From the rooftop of the legalised squat Tetterode, in the Costerbuurt.  It’s a former factory that made cast-lead printing type until it was squatted in 1981.

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cookie.com) in De Pijp.  It’s run by a friendly couple called Sandra and Petar, from Croatia and Serbia. They serve the best vegetarian meal you can imagine.

11. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE PUBLIC BUILDING? The Stedelijk Museum, with its beautiful new extension (www.stedelijk.nl).  12. WHAT’S THE BEST CHARACTERISTIC OF YOUR FELLOW CITIZENS? Their amusing directness and openness. It leads to pretty humorous situations.

9. FAVOURITE AMSTERDAM DELICACY? I shop in Marqt supermarket (www.marqt.nl) for good quality organic food.

13. WHAT’S THE WORST? All those so-called important ‘hip’ people pretending they’re so much better than anyone else.

10. TOP RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATION? Olive&Cookie (www.oliveand

Amsterdam Fashion Week runs 6-16 July. See www.amsterdam fashionweek.com for details.

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

See the stars outside Catch a summer movie and some precious sunshine at these open-air film fests, mixing up celluloid classics with indie fare and new releases.

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PLUK DE NACHT

text Bregtje Schudel

I WORLD CINEMA AMSTERDAM OPEN-AIR and 7-18 August, Vondelpark Marie Heinekenplein www.worldcinemaamsterdam.nl

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PLUK DE NACHT 7-17 August, Het Stenen Hoofd www.plukdenacht.nl

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HET KETELHUIS Every Saturday 27 July-31 August, Pazzanistraat 4 www.ketelhuis.nl

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t’s always been a little baffling that Hollywood film studios engender something of a blockbuster pile-up in the summer months. Yes, we’ve all got a bit more free time – but why would we spend it sitting inside in the dark when for a few blessed months a year the sun is actually shining on us?

Thankfully, Amsterdam hosts a number of enticing open-air cinema festivals – and they’re all absolutely free.

For those with a penchant for world cinema there’s the aptly titled World Cinema Amsterdam Open-Air, with screenings in the Vondelpark and at

the Marie Heinekenplein in De Pijp (thankfully subtitled in English). One of the films already confirmed is Born to Hate… Destined to Love (2012), India’s answer to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

One of the city’s best known – and best loved – open-air festivals is Pluk de Nacht (‘Seize the Night’), which returns for its tenth edition this year. The schedule is yet to be confirmed, but expect international films and documentaries that have not yet been widely released in the Netherlands. So just kick back in one of the complimentary

deck chairs, relax and enjoy the view – but be warned: seating is limited, so be on time.

The open-air programme hosted by Het Ketelhuis (in leafy Westergasfabriek) comprises films that have already proven their worth: expect indie favourites, with Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind and Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris among them.

There’s nothing like a little summertime stargazing...

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highlight

go see these

Our must-see film pick this issue…

Fellini: The Exhibition

BEHIND THE CANDELABRA

Actually, it’s 27 years of animation – but hey, who’s counting? We’re just so happy the Pixar exhibition finally made it to Amsterdam, with a collection of over 500 original artefacts, including a lifesize Mike and Sulley (Monsters, Inc.) and Pixar’s fabulous Zoetrope machine.

If this really is to be Steven Soderbergh’s last feature film, at least he’ll go out with a glittering flourish. Behind the Candelabra follows the tempestuous affair between closeted pianist Liberace (played with relish by Michael Douglas) and boyfriend Scott Thorson (Matt Damon). Quite brilliant; a must-see.

Amsterdam Expo www.amsterdamexpo.nl Until 27 October

N

early 20 years after his death, the EYE Film Museum honours Italian filmmaker Federico Fellini (19201993) with a memorable exhibition and an extensive retrospective. Brought up in the wake of neorealism, Fellini quickly came into his own with a unique mix of surrealism and baroque. La strada (1954) and – especially – La dolce vita (1960; pictured), starring Anita Ekberg and a then largely unknown Marcello Mastroianni (who would become Fellini’s alter ego in many of his subsequent films), would cement his fame. Yet 8½ (1963) is his ultimate masterpiece, about a filmmaker (Mastroianni again) with director’s block.

EYE’s exhibition includes an impressive collection of Fellini’s drawings, adverts and ‘dream books’ (a recommendation made by therapist Ernest Bernhard), as well as rare behind-thescenes footage made by the likes of Gideon Bachmann, Deborah Beer and Paul Ronald.

There’s also an exhaustive film retrospective – unfortunately, it’s only subtitled in Dutch.

ELYSIUM

It’s Spartacus in the Caribbean. Heroic slave Tula starts a revolt against his white masters in the Dutch colony of Curacao in 1795. With Dutch thespians Jeroen Willems, Derek de Lint, Jeroen Krabbé and American Danny Glover. In English.

In the distant future everyman Max (Matt Damon) has only one goal: getting from the wastelands of Earth to manmade space station Elysium, where the wealthy reside. Yet Secretary Rhodes (Jodie Foster) is not going to stand idly by.

BYZANTIUM

BLUE JASMINE

Director Neil Jordan (Interview with the Vampire) returns to the dark side in Byzantium. Two mysterious women with a deathly secret seek refuge in a run-down coastal resort. With Saoirse Ronan and Gemma Arterton.

Despite all his gallivanting in Europe, Woody Allen does occasionally make a movie in his homeland. When her husband falls on hard times, an elegant New York housewife is forced to move in with her whacky sister.

TO THE WONDER

THE LOOK OF LOVE

Be it a film about war, Pocahontas or ordinary life, all Terrence Malick’s films flow like a lazy, sultry summer’s day. To the Wonder charts the slow disintegration of the marriage of passionate Marina (an ethereal Olga Kurylenko) and taciturn Neil (Ben Affleck). In English, French, Spanish and Italian.

Director Michael Winterbottom reunites with his 24 Hour Party People star Steve Coogan for another biopic about another infamous Brit. This time their subject is controversial entertainment mogul Paul Raymond, who made his fortune from strip clubs and soft porn mags. Expect lots of full-frontal female nudity.

THE BLING RING

MUD

Another tale of ultimate boredom from director Sofia Coppola (The Virgin Suicides, Somewhere). Five blasé, fame-obsessed LA teens – including Emma ‘Harry Potter’ Watson – rob the homes of the celebrities they themselves aspire to be. Based on actual events.

His turns in Magic Mike, Killer Joe and The Paperboy have made it crystal clear: Matthew McConaughey is done playing smooth-talking pretty boys. His performance in Mud, by director Jeff Nichols (Shotgun Stories, Take Shelter), is his most memorable yet.

Direction: Neil Jordan Release: 11 July

TOPH SCHIF

FERLI, ZURIC

H



CTION CHRIS

Direction: Terrence Malick Release: 11 July

UIGI COLLE

Direction: Steven Soderbergh Release: 8 August

TULA: THE REVOLT

Direction: Jeroen Leinders Release: 4 July

PIERL URNAGE DE PHIE DE TO PHOTOGRAFONDATION PATHÉ COURTESY

Until 22 September EYE Film Museum, IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl

PIXAR: 25 YEARS OF ANIMATION

Direction: Sofia Coppola Release: 1 August

Direction: Neill Blomkamp Release: 15 August

Direction: Woody Allen Release: 22 August

Direction: Michael Winterbottom Release: 22 August

Direction: Jeff Nichols Release: 29 August

jul & aug 2013

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ‘I’VE LIVED HERE FOR 30 YEARS, AND I FEEL LIKE I’M VISITING THE WHOLE ENTIRE WORLD EVERY DAY.’ S El Sherif, 55, on the appeal of Oud-Oost‘s Dappermarkt

ANNA + NINA boutique in De Pijp is a treasure trove of stylish souvenirs, original jewellery, artworks and wanna-haves. Shop owners Anna and Nina have carefully curated a selection of their personal favourites – from beautiful stationery, hand-painted porcelain and skincare products to handmade pillows and fresh flowers.

Gerard Doustraat 94 www.anna-nina.nl

34 40 42 43 44 46

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: OUD-OOST EATING OUT ON THE MENU ICE ICE BABY PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE

MARIUS & WORST Charming living room restaurant Marius has long been a foodie favourite. Chef Kees Elfring, who worked with groundbreaking Californian cook Alice Waters in the Eighties, creates a daily culinary market menu, dedicated to simple but creatively prepared dishes with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients. Both the atmosphere and the food are fabulous, but if the €47.50 four-course chef’s menu is out of your price range, head next door to sister venue Worst (Dutch for sausage), an informal bar focused on matching high quality charcuterie – lobster sausage, veal tongue, chicken liver parfait – with exceptional quality wines.

Barentszstraat 171 http://deworst.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

OUD-OOST DE YSBREEKER Café Restaurant De Ysbreeker (‘The Icebreaker’) has such a storied history that the Netherlands’ pre-eminent historian, Geert Mak, even wrote a book about it. Designed

by AL van Gendt – the architect partially responsible for such city landmarks as the Stadsschouwburg and the Concertgebouw – De Ysbreeker’s story began in 1702, when it was an inn and tavern named for the icebreaking ship moored in front of it on the Amstel River until 1860. It later became an important meeting place for Amsterdam’s intelligentsia, and after numerous incarnations, in 2010 underwent a dramatic transformation to become a locals-favourite café/restaurant. Inside it’s a masterful mix of modern and art deco features, but we recommend you find yourself a seat between locals, writers and media types at the communal tables of the large riverside terrace.



Weesperzijde 23 www.deysbreeker.nl

35

Hip clubs and cooperative cafes contrast with traditional Turkish bakeries and Middle-Eastern lunchrooms in this flourishing neighbourhood. text Karin Engelbrecht photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

The not so Far East

A

msterdam’s eastern city expansion, which began in the last quarter of the 19th century, transformed the marshy countryside where Amsterdammers once went for their Sunday walks into what has become a densely populated and increasingly popular borough. Today Oud-Oost (formerly stadsdeel Oost), which borders on Centrum, is made up of five boroughs, each with its own distinctive feel.

There’s the 19th-century Weesperzijdestrook, the so-called ‘golden edge of East’ (A) that borders the Amstel River, and the leafy Oosterparkbuurt (B) with its beautiful park, the Hortus Botanicus botanical gardens and the Tropenmuseum (Museum of the Tropics), one of Europe’s leading ethnographic museums.

Head further east and you’ll find the Dapperbuurt (C), with its lively market, and the Transvaalbuurt’s (D) expressionist Amsterdam School architecture. Oostpoort (E), meanwhile, is a neighbourhood in transition, with homes, offices,

shops and infrastructure developing fast under the careful supervision of the architect responsible for the desirable Java-eiland neighbourhood.

DIVERSE AND DELICIOUS Oud-Oost used to be home to mainly immigrants and squatters, but in recent years the colourful borough has drawn in media and creative types, and young families.

‘Since I moved to the neighbourhood ten years ago, many former social housing properties have been sold. This has led to an influx of educated people with a bit more money. Nowadays, you’ll find a real cross section of all layers of society here,’ says Jacky Andrews (42), Oud-Oost resident and owner of ZZPlace(Eerste Oosterparkstraat 42-44), an office with flexible workspaces and a nanny service for freelancers with children.

Along with the new residents came a greater variety of cafés, clubs and restaurants. In fact, today OudOost boasts some of the most popu-

>

36

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

‘What I really love about Oost is the warmth and openness of the people.’

CANVAS OP DE 7E Canvas was the first of Wibautstraat’s trendy trifecta of artists’ cooperatives, which also includes hipster magnets Trouw and Baut, across the street. Situated in the former canteen of a newspaper printing house, Canvas has the advantage that at seven floors up, what you see from the terrace is a terrific view of the city and not what many call Amsterdam’s ugliest street, with architecture reminiscent of the Eastern bloc. The easy vibe, along with a diverse line-up of film and club events, means that Canvas is still making news – but catch it while you can: Canvas will be closed for renovation after 31 July.

Wibautstraat 150 www.canvas7.nl



MICHEL-INN Pizza and pintxos (those little skewered Basque bites on bread) may not seem like natural culinary companions, but they’re both easy to share with friends. The thin-crust pizza at this charming new eatery is wood-fired, while pinxtos such as baked prawns with anchovy and roasted bell peppers and portobello mushroom with melted Cabrales cheese are made fresh to order.

Steve Bikoplein 12 www.michel-inn.nl



37

lar places in the city for eating, drinking and going out. There’s Trouw (Wibautstraat 131), with its 24-hour party licence, where punters can fortify themselves with shareable Mediterranean-style tapas and titbits before dancing the night away to some of the best DJs in the city.

Next door, BAUT (Wibautstraat 125) marries experimental art and fine yet affordable food created by a chef who honed his skills at Michelin-starred establishments. Head to Pica Pica (Camperstraat 48-50), near Oosterpark, for some of the best tapas in town or Wilde Zwijnen in the Indische Buurt for Dutch food with a modern twist (Javaplein 23). Stop off for one of the 20-odd beers on tap (there are also 50 bottled beers) at Hesp (Weesperzijde 130-131), one of the city’s most characteristic brown cafés, which happens to have one of its best waterside terraces, too. In a nearby side street, French-Flemish restaurant Rijsel (Marcusstraat 52), famous for its flavourful rotisserie chicken, has established itself as yet another delicious reason to head out East every so often.

‘I love the market so much. I make a stop here every day on my way back from work. I always find what I need, from food to books and fabrics.’

S EL SHERIF, 55 ‘I’ve lived here for 30 years, and I feel like I’m visiting the whole entire world every day.’ rstraat Dappe

C ark terp Oos

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krpar oste e O at t s r Ee stra

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works at a kindergarten

t traa auts Wib

EAST, WEST, OOST IS BEST ‘I lived in Zuid before, an ice-cold neighbourhood, and what I really love about Oost is the warmth and openness of the people,’ concludes Jacky Andrews. ‘It doesn’t take long for your neighbour to greet you with a jovial, “Hé buurvrouw!”.’ Her own buurvrouw (neighbour) and friend Jessica Anches (47), owner of soup shop Mijn Soep (Eerste Oosterparkstraat 73)and another Oud-Oost resident, says: ‘This area is getting better by the day. I think that a good neighbourhood is like a good soup: you need lots of ingredients and a little bit of time to create something truly remarkable.’

ASTRID SOUPRAYEN, 44

E



de lka vaa ns a r T

VAN VELZE’S

COFFEE BRU

This hidden-away shop specialises in single-origin chocolate confections, made from Grand Cru Chocolate, a sustainable Rainforest Alliance-certified bean from a single plantation in Costa Rica. Their assortment runs the gamut from classic flavours such as raspberry or cinnamon to more unusual offerings including fennel and Guinness (a nod to the Irish proprietress, no doubt).

With its homemade cakes and coffee prepared any way you like – including filter, siphon, espresso and cold brews – made with quality beans from De Eenhoorn, Boot Koffie and Bocca, this is a must-visit for aficionados.

The casually mismatched décor – mosaic countertop, living plant wall and quirky artwork – creates a homely feel that might tempt you to linger longer than anticipated.

Eerste Oosterparkstraat 7 www.vanvelzes.com





Beukenplein 14 www.coffeebru.nl

38

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Dappermarkt is the place to search for hard-to-find ingredients.

DAPPERMARKT This is a bargain shopper’s paradise, with some 250 stalls selling everything from tulips and textiles to fish, fresh fruit and soft furnishings. Named for Olfert Dapper (1635-1689), who championed the multicultural society, the market is a melting pot of cultures, and the place to search for hard-tofind ingredients.

HARTOG’S VOLKOREN BAKKERIJ & MAALDERIJ



Dapperstraat 279 www.dappermarkt.nl

ERIK’S DELICATESSEN This place has built up a reputation for excellence with some 200 varieties of foreign and a large selection of local cheeses, aged in an in-house affinage. The shop also has a well-chosen assortment of charcuterie, bread and over 200 (mostly organic or biodynamic) international wines, with a special emphasis on France. Stop in to stock your picnic basket, before heading to nearby Oosterpark.



Beukenplein 16 www.eriksdelicatessen.nl

ALEXANDRA DANIELA, 26 nanny

‘This neighbourhood has such an active, flavourful spirit. I love the smell of spices wafting down the street, and the children who laugh in the park outside my window.’

What started as a small family bakery in 1896 with a production capacity of 12 breads has become a prize-winning artisan bakery, which mills its own flour and uses no additives or preservatives to provide some 2,000 hungry patrons with their daily bread. Join the queue, which often snakes around the corner on to Wibautstraat, to sample the bakery’s dense wholewheat bread and Dutch baked goods, such as spiced speculaas cookies and oliebollen (Dutch doughnuts).

Round the corner, De Boterham (The Sandwich) sells simple but delicious takeaway options all made with the brand’s delicious bread.

Don’t expect anything fancy: fillings include cheese, honey, fried egg and the like, all paired back to let the true star – the bread – truly shine.



Ruyschstraat 68 www.volkorenbrood.nl

BUS TICKET

There are hundreds of Dutch experiences that lie just minutes from the well beaten tourist traps of Amsterdam. Most of them only minutes from where you are now. Fancy a bit of Dutch countryside and fun? Do as the Dutch do and take the local bus!

• Pay local prices • See more sights

• Explore on your own • Free Wi-Fi

€ 10

VALID ALL DAY

• Hop on & off as you like • All drivers speak English

Buy your tickets at our busstop at the north exit of Central Station.

More info: www.localbus.nl HOORN - AMSTERDAM - BROEK IN WATERLAND - VOLENDAM - MARKEN - MONNICKENDAM - PURMEREND - EDAM - BEEMSTER

40

eating out

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

THE LOBBY

L



Nes 49 www.thelobby-amsterdam.nl

NEW IN TOWN

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ocated near bustling Dam square, the pedestrian Nes is a tranquil haven by comparison. No wonder, then, that super-stylish Hotel V recently opened a boutique hostelry in this narrow alley lined with theatres and restaurants. With The Lobby, V offers hotel guests a contemporary ‘one-stop shop’, combining restaurant, bar, library, lounge and – of course – lobby, in one cosy yet deign-savvy space where hotel guests rub shoulders with locals who stop by for booze or bites. The setting for this cross-pollination includes an open fireplace, library, liquor cart and a plush velvet curtain covering the full length of the back wall. There’s nothing behind it – we checked – but it definitely contributes to the warm and homely ambiance.

Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, you’ll find some good authentic dishes on The Lobby’s menu – think French fish soup and saffron risotto – as well as more meaty options including leg of lamb, burger, onglet de boeuf and sausages; all organic and all locally sourced. The house speciality, however, is ‘Flammkuchen’, a traditional Alsatian thin-crust pizza with a creme fraiche base and toppings including blue cheese with pear and walnuts or Italian fennel sausage, ricotta and tomato. A nice starter, but they make an even better accompaniment to drinks at the bar or seated in The Lobby’s backyard: a terrace on the intimate Nesplein.

  



41 trendy VAN MECHELEN Old-school Belgian cafés have had a huge impact on the Amsterdam culinary scene of late. It’s out with designer furniture and fussy finger food; in with sturdy wooden tables, vintage chairs and no-nonsense food. The newest addition is Van Mechelen, housed in a former warehouse in the city’s southwest and named after a Flemish town. The menu is classic ‘café’ cuisine, from snails with garlic butter to tarbotine with tasty fries and the obligatory mayonnaise. Best of all, it‘s surprisingly affordable – another trend in these turbulent financial times. There‘s no reservations, but enjoying a Belgian beer in the café part while you wait to be seated is no hardship.



Sloterkade 96-97 www.stadscafevanmechelen.nl

critics’ choice FIRMA PEKELHAARING

T

he once gloomy Van Woustraat in De Pijp has become something of a gourmet destination over the past few years. Firm favourite amongst locals is Firma Pekelhaaring, a laidback canteen-style place serving superb (and affordable) Italian food. Large and high-ceilinged, the interior is unadorned, with simple wooden chairs and tables, and the relaxed but lively atmosphere makes you feel right at home. The menu consists of authentic Italian dishes, although you won’t find the usual suspects: think along the lines of artichoke salad with borlotti beans, pecorino and hazelnuts or linguine pulpo picante with lots of zesty lemon.

Without a reservation, there should always be room at the communal table, where you can mingle with the locals.

Van Woustraat 127-129 www.pekelhaaring.nl



classic CAFÉ RESTAURANT AMSTERDAM

quick & simple BUFFET VAN ODETTE A local favourite for brunch through to early dinner. The corner canal house is simply decorated but attracts a fashionable clientele who come here for Lebanese bean salad with grilled vegetables, Dutch wholewheat sandwiches with mackerel or one of the excellent cakes. Come early to ensure yourself a seat outside.



Prinsengracht 598 www.buffet-amsterdam.nlacht 598 www.buffet-amsterdam.nl



This impressive restaurant is situated in a former water pumping station near Westerpark. Since 1996 it’s been pumping out brasserie-style food from the large engine room. The high ceiling and raw materials give an industrial look, but Amsterdam manages to retain a hospitable vibe.

This, combined with spot-on food and friendly service, ensures its popularity – especially among families with small children (they can do no harm in the robust interior). The menu is extensive and offers classics such as fruits de mer, caesar salad, Black Angus steak with pepper sauce and fries or – closer to home – Dutch shrimp croquette and salty herring.

Watertorenplein 6 www.cradam.nl

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on the menu

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every palate. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

late-night bites

ENVY

HANNEKE'S BOOM

best bars BURGERS PATIO

alfresco dining

AS

HANNEKE’S BOOM

THE BUTCHER

An exceptional restaurant in a former chapel in the south of Amsterdam, the menu here is small – running the gamut of modern Mediterranean – and constantly changing since they only cook with seasonal, organic products. Inside the decor is minimalist; outside you sit at simple wooden tables near the quiet Beatrixpark.

Tucked away behind large contemporary buildings near Central Station, Hanneke’s Boom is a bit of an anomaly, with its recycled ‘cradle to cradle’ principles. On a warm evening locals flock here for the laidback beachy atmosphere, organic food, live music – and for the beers, of course...

Located in De Pijp, this culinary burger ‘snack bar’ is open until midnight every day. As the name implies, this is a place for meat lovers, specialising in high-quality Angus beef and lamb from New Zealand – but fish and veggie burgers are on offer too. A great option for a post-pub snack to stave off tomorrow’s hang-over.

Prinses Irenestraat 19 www.restaurantas.nl

Dijksgracht 4 www.hannekesboom.nl

Albert Cuypstraat 129 www.the-butcher.com

EYE

CAFE HOPPE

ENVY

Located across the water behind Central Station in a futuristic eye-popping structure that houses the fantastic Film Museum, the waterfront EYE restaurant offers brasserie-inspired dishes and great views of passing ships and the city (from the terrace and also through the large glass windows if the weather – or the crowds – keep you inside).

One of the oldest bars in town – it was founded in 1670 – Cafe Hoppe is also one of the busiest. You’ll find young professionals mixing with old barflies in authentic brown café surroundings. Even when the weather isn’t that good, the clientele doesn’t seem to mind standing outside on the pavement, watching the world go by.

Part of a chain of connected restaurants whose names are all derived of the same four letters, Envy offers delicious small dishes meant for sharing and carefully selected wines to match. The kitchen of this chic, contemporary place closes at 11pm, but the restaurant stays open until one – giving you plenty of time to enjoy another drink.

IJpromenade 1 http://eyebarrestaurant.nl

Spui 18-20 www.cafehoppe.com

Prinsengracht 381 www.envy.nl

BURGERS PATIO

DE JAREN

SLUIZER

This cosy restaurant in the Jordaan offers homemade French–Italian food (no burgers in spite of the name) and friendly service, but is especially famous for its romantic patio: dining amidst grape vines and passion fruit plants is rather unique in Amsterdam.

This mainstay owes its popularity to its simultaneously intimate yet spacious interior – but its best feature is the canal-side terrace and balcony. Here you can have a couple of drinks and simple dishes while enjoying one of the most impressive city centre views.

Located just around the corner from the neon-lit Rembrandtplein, Sluizer is a late-night option offering international dishes made with (mostly) Dutch ingredients. Choose from fish, meat or vegetarian dishes, served until 11pm. Also open for breakfast and lunch.

Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 12 www.burgerspatio.com

Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20-22 www.cafedejaren.nl

Utrechtsestraat 41-45 www.sluizer.nl

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ICE ICE BABY

Ice cream goes artisanal.

N

ot really a novelty in Amsterdam – ice cream having been around since the 17th century, although it was only for the wealthy back then. But after a couple of decades of industrially manufactured stuff, the city’s new crop of artisanal ice cream shops are being welcomed with open arms. In the past few years several such shops have popped up that make the cold treat from ‘real’ ingredients such as fruit, nuts, chocolate and cream: no artificial flavouring, simply pure and delicious Italian-style comfort food.

Unfortunately, Amsterdam isn’t blessed with ice cream weather all year around, so in winter these shops tend to switch to more homely

comfort foods – pasta at Fior di Gelato and Dutch stamppot (mashed potatoes with vegetables and sausage) at IJscuypje – but global warming permitting, we should be safe for a few months.

MONTE PELMO Tweede Anjeliersdwarsstraat 17 www.montepelmo.nl IJSCUYPJE Eerst van der Helststraat 27, Haarlemmerdijk 14, Nieuwmarkt 30 and more www.ijscuypje.nl FIOR DI GELATO Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 56 www.fiordigelato.nl PISA IJS Eerste van der Helststraat 62b

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

MARKS & SPENCER

>

NEW IN TOWN

WHAT: Ecstatic Brits have recently been spotted frenziedly stocking up on thick-cut bacon, crumpets and teabags near Muntplein: after an absence of more than ten years – and a Facebook campaign demanding its return – ‘Marks & Sparks’, as it’s affectionately known in Blighty, is back in town. This time around the quintessentially British department store focuses primarily on food.

English favourites – Cheddar cheese, steak and kidney pie, mint sauce and chutneys – but also reflects the face of contemporary Britain with a pretty broad international selection as well, from fresh pasta and wood-fired pizzas to Thai chicken soup and Indian lamb rogan josh. There’s also a limited selection of the women’s clothing line, and an ‘online station’ where you can order the rest of the collection (women’s, men’s, children’s) with free in-store collection or a moderate home delivery fee.

INTERIOR: Stylish supermarket, with plenty of fridges. M&S offers

MUST HAVE: Depends on your nationality.

For the Brits, it’s probably the

sausages, scones and the Devonshire clotted cream. For the rest of us, it’s all about the superlative Indian convenience food, hard to find in Amsterdam. And don’t forget to stock up on the high quality, decently priced underwear. Neither too skimpy nor granny sized, Brits swear by it.

CONCLUSION: A great shop for those who miss Britain and its cuisine, but with so many international dishes to choose from there really is something for everyone here.



Kalverstraat 226 www.marksandspencer.eu

45 beauty store SKINS COSMETICS

cabinet of curiosities ANNA+NINA Entering this boutique in De Pijp is a bit like stepping into Alice’s Wonderland: it’s a treasure trove of stylish souvenirs, original jewellery, artworks and wanna-haves. Shop owners Anna and Nina have carefully curated a selection of their personal favourites – from beautiful stationery, hand-painted porcelain and skincare products to handmade pillows and fresh flowers. Even their favourite tea and cake are for sale.

Gerard Doustraat 94 www.anna-nina.nl

Entering one of the Skins shops in the Nine Streets or Museum District is both a visual and olfactory feast. Both of these beautiful boutiques offer a collection of exclusive fragrances and skincare products – not the brands you’ll find in the average high-street store, but alluring and unique creations from Mona di Orio, Le Labo, Creed, Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Frederic Malle, to name but a few of the niche brands in stock. The skincare, make-up and hair products are equally distinctive, and the friendly staff keep their patience while you try to choose ‘your scent’.

Runstraat 11 www.skins.nl

, Van Baerlestraat 27 (inside the Conservatorium Hotel) 



classic FROZEN FOUNTAIN Probably the first concept store in the city, founded back in the Eighties when ‘concept store’ wasn’t even a, well, concept yet. Frozen Fountain’s focus is on contemporary furniture and home accessories. Wander around in this deep, double-width canal house and discover a dynamic collection of Dutch design and international brands. Also a great shop for souvenirs and small presents, from futuristic home textiles to multicoloured tableware, lighting and books. They even offer some well-designed clothes.

Prinsengracht 645 www.frozenfountain.com

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE These fashion-forward style emporiums will have you (m/f) turning heads. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

     

 BASKÈTS (M/F)

PAUL WARMER (M/F)

Stylish sneaker store in the Jordaan area.

Baskèts offers a range of ‘grown-up’ trainers definitely not intended for sports or renovating the house – from Vans designer collaborations to Converse classics and local brands such as Mason Garments, Locals AMS and Etiquette Amsterdam.

One of the better shoe shops in the city, with two storeys of designer footwear.

At Paul Warmer’s you can opt for brands such as Gucci, Versace, D-squared and Balenciaga, but you could also walk away on a pair of Warmer’s own brand creations – depending on your budget.



Elandsgracht 59 www.basketsamsterdam.com

BLACK SHEEP ROAD (M/F) As nonconformist as a black sheep, this new and fun fashion store on the Herenstraat offers a mix of unique brands. From street wear to high fashion, from clean to outspoken design, all brands have a story to tell, and most have a quirky name to match, including IKKU, PotiPoti and TukTuk.

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Herenstraat 6 http://blacksheeproad.com



Leidsestraat 41 www.paulwarmer.com

TENUE DE NÎMES (M/F) The favoured denim store of local creatives, Tenue de Nîmes boasts exceptional service and denim by iconic brands such as Levi’s Vintage, Rag & Bone, Momotaro, Edwin and Big John.

The store also stocks a nicely curated selection of non-denim by Acne, APC and Woolrich, amongst others.

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Elandsgracht 60, Haarlemmerstraat 92-94 www.tenuedenimes.com



FILIPPA K (M/F)

VAN RAVENSTEIN (W)

Swedish fashion brand Filippa K has several shops across town, since the Dutch love the designer’s stylish philosophy, simplicity and eye for quality. Shop at Filippa’s for sophisticated clothes with a flattering fit and a hint of fashion in the details.

Be prepared when you visit Van Ravenstein on the Keizersgracht: this superior designer boutique makes you wanna pull out all your credit cards. The shop carries exclusive clothes from mostly Belgian fashion houses such as Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten and Maison Martin Margiela.

PC Hooftstraat 129 Leidsestraat 53 www.filippa-k.com

, Wolvenstraat 6 ,

KARL (M/F) Brand store dedicated to Karl, the (more affordable) diffusion line from fashion icon and Chanel bigwig Karl Lagerfeld. The collection consists of urban pieces for both men and women: from leather biker vests to sleek gold trousers and plenty of black, the maestro’s favourite colour. The shop also stocks shoes, bags and fun items bearing his distinctive ponytail-clad silhouette.

Hartenstraat 16 www.karl.com





Keizersgracht 359 www.van-ravenstein.nl

ZONDAG (W) Zondag is Dutch for Sunday, and although this shop in the South of Amsterdam is closed on Sundays, the place feels like a sunny day due to its colourful interior, attentive staff and comfortable clothes. Freshen up your wardrobe with pieces from Humanoid, Tara Jarmon, Drykorn and Mads Nørgaard.



Willemsparkweg 161 www.zondagamsterdam.nl

PART IV

THE

jul & aug 2013

47

CLUBBING/MUSIC/ EXHIBITIONS/STAGE/ KIDS/FESTIVALS/ GAY & LESBIAN/SPORTS

>

DALE MAY

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

STEPHEN LYNCH While he considers himself ‘a musician trapped in the body of a comedian’ – and his five albums notwithstanding – American Stephen Lynch is all comedian where it counts. Whether he’s singing an ode to bad tattoos or lamenting his new vegan lifestyle (‘Tofurkey? Tof**k yourself – I want some meat’) Lynch’s unique brand of musical comedy earned him the title role in Broadway show The Wedding Singer (and a Tony Award nomination), as well as several Comedy Central specials.

THURSDAY 29 AUGUST MELKWEG Lijnbaansgracht 234a www.melkweg.nl. 20.30, €24

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PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE SONIC BOOM @ CABLE Kahn (Deep Medhi, Bandulu), Brutuzz and others play bassheavy dubstep, hip hop, 2-step, grime, funky and drum’n’bass.

Melkweg, Thur 4 Jul, 23.30, €5 BORIS WERNER ALL NIGHT LONG Over the last five-odd years, this local techno jock has gained a reputation among a die-hard party crowd who never call it quits before sunrise.

Trouw, Fri 5 Jul, 23.00, €15, €8 before midnight SENSATION: INTO THE WILD Now a global success story, this large mainstream EDM event never fails to produce a cheesy line-up which guarantees many hands in the air: Nicky Romero (featured on Avicii’s ‘I Could Be The One’), Fedde Le Grand, Mark Knight, Nic Fanciulli, Mr White and Ryan Marciano.

Amsterdam ArenA, www.sensation.com. Sat 6 Jul, 22.00, €79.75/€175.25 AUDIO CULTURE & PLANET DELSIN Headlining the main room is Martyn, the one Dutch dude on Flying Lotus’s Brainfeeder label.

Don’t expect anything wonky: this futuristic DJ/producer plays anything from techy dubstep and bass music right through to funky and old-school US house and garage. Supporting are label mate Trevino and the local peeps from Audio Culture.

Trouw, Sat 6 Jul, 23.00, €17, €8 before midnight TROUW LOVES NACHTDIGITAL A night jam-packed with classic Trouw music: the place to go if you feel like dancing to minimal techno until you drop.

Roman Flügel (Playhouse) and Steffen Bennemann provide the soundtrack tonight.

Trouw, Sat 6 Jul, 23.00, €17, €8 before midnight

BEYOND THE REALMS OF DOOM 3 The dark side of clubbing: nightlife doesn’t get much closer to the soundtrack of hell than this.

Mater Suspiria Vision (live), Angst (live), Fifth Era and others play doomcore, witch house and other frightening sounds for the brave of heart.

OCCII, Sat 13 Jul, 22.00, €8 HOAX: AMON TOBIN PRESENTS TWO FINGERS This jazz/breaks master from Brazil has released many records on the world famous Ninja Tune label. As he builds heavily on samples in his own work, we’re guessing this dude knows the history of jazz, hip hop and soundtrack music so well he shouldn’t have any problems impressing a nerdy head-nodding crowd tonight.

Melkweg, Thur 18 Jul, 22.00, €20 CASSY & CRAIG RICHARDS A night of proper techno with Cassy, who did a mixtape for connoisseur ravers’ website Resident Advisor as early as 2006. Support comes from Fabric (London) resident Craig Richards – who, like Ben UFO, is one of the few non-producing international DJs on the scene.

Trouw, Fri 19 Jul, 23.00, €17, €8 before midnight WE LOVE… AMSTERDAM The line-up isn’t complicated, just one big headliner: Simian Mobile Disco. Since 2005, the production and DJ duo from London have made numerous pop tunes suitable for the dancefloor by giving them the remix treatment.

AIR, Fri 19 Jul, 23.00, €10 BUITEN WESTEN FESTIVAL A classic outdoor rave for party people who can’t ever get enough. Techno DJs Alle Farben, Miss Melera, Nuno Dos Santos, De Man Zonder Schaduw and others play druggy, monotonous 4/4 stuff, while quality house, krautrock and disco comes from Norway’s Prins Thomas, local hero Tom Trago and Thomas Martojo and Casper Tielrooij.

Westerpark, http://buitenwesten.am.

Sat 20 Jul, 12.00-23.00, €45

Choice clubbing

through to the dubstep masses around 2009 with sci-fi and R&B-fuelled tunes like ‘Digidesign’. Expect his set to include numerous mean-as-grime cuts that’ll make you shiver.

Melkweg, Thur 25 Jul, 23.30, €5 RTFTKT @ KLINCH Nijmegen’s RTKTK crew loves the combination of danceability and melody. Denmark’s Taranga Pyjarama of Michael Mayer’s Kompakt label headlines the night while Olaf Stuur and RTFKTK residents Applescal, Pnoq and Jord3n warm things up.

Melkweg, Fri 26 Jul, 23.0004.00, €12

DE FOTOMEISJES

CLUBBING

PITCH FESTIVAL Initiated in 2011, Pitch has so far proven to be an amazing festival with line-ups containing a mix of the bigger names of leftfield electronic music, quirky world music and some pop acts you can mention to your friends without feeling too embarrassed. Fat Freddy’s Drop, Jamie Lidell and Dizzee Rascal more or less fit into the latter category, while the list of great underground electronic names is equally good this year: John Hopkins (live), Darkstar (live), Hudson Mohawke and more. Westergasterrein, www.pitchfestival.nl.

Fri 5 & Sat 6 Jul, 15.00, €45 (per day); €80 (both days)

TROUW OP ZONDAG Topping the bill tonight is one of the most talented and admired men in techno ever: Carl Craig (pictured). Once considered a proponent of Detroit techno’s so-called Second Wave, the head honcho of Planet E records can now easily be considered a veteran. Hip hop/house artist Andres of Moodymann’s Mahogani label is also set to play an eclectic set. Trouw, Sun 14 Jul, 21.00, €20

SWTBOX Utrecht’s Nuno Dos Santos has been a Trouw resident for years, so his faithful crowd know they’ll get what they want. Special HENK OP DE HELLING guests are minimal techno dude Jesper Dahlbäck, who will play Just about far away enough from ELECTRONIC FAMILY a live set under his Persuader the Buiten Westen festival not You’ve probably come to Holland moniker, plus Dublin duo to be bothered by the noise of for the cheese, the tulips, the Psycatron. its rival, this event finds itself Trouw, Fri 12 Jul, 23.00, €17, €8 windmills and the trance music. slightly to the left of the raving Well, you got lucky: a few of the before midnight centre. With a rare appearance biggest names in the latter scene by Moritz von Oswald (Maurizio, A DAY AT THE PARK – including Ferry Corsten, Judge the M-series), it’s already hard Jules, Marcel Woods plus Tom Head here if you’re an over-25 to beat the line-up. Bonus DJs Fall, Beat Service, Shogun, Stana, at this techno-dominated gathraver; the line-up consists of Cosmic Gate and Markus Schulz ering are the masked Redshape, mostly 45-year-old house and – are on the line-up here. techno DJs: funky Derrick CarMike Denhert, Isolee (live), John Amsterdamse Bos, ter, druggy John Digweed, Josh Heckle (live) Awanto3 (aka Stewww.electronicfamily.nl.

‘Higher State of Consciousness’ ven de Peven) and many more.

Sat 20 Jul, 12.00-23.00, €45 Wink and Detroit’s ambassador NDSM-werf, www.henkopde in the Low Countries Steve helling.nl. Sun 21 July, MAKAM ALL NIGHT LONG Rachmad. Fans of Scandinavian 12.00-23.00, €39.50 cosmic/kraut disco should also First spotlighted by the DekmanMILKSHAKE FESTIVAL consider making their way down tel crew a few years ago, Makam knows quality house music inside as both Lindstrøm (live) and One of Rotterdam’s classic out. A six-hour set at Trouw is the silly Todd Terje are set to nightlife figures, Ted Langena good indication of his current appear on stage. bach, hosts one of the areas high status in the Low Countries. with easy-going party DJs – inAmsterdamse Bos, Trouw, Sat 20 Jul, 23.00, €15, www.adayatthepark.nl. cluding himself plus Beesmunt €8 before midnight Sat 13 Jul, 12.00-23.00, €49 Soundsystem and Pop On Acid

APPELSAP A hip hop and urban music haven amidst all the four to the floor madness that dominates Amsterdam’s parks during summer. The bill includes FS Green and The Flexican (pictured), BBC Radio 1’s Benji B, Cinnaman, Vic Crezée, Rashad, Spinn and Dutch language hip hop heroes The Opposites and Jiggy Djé (live). Oosterpark, http://appelsap.net. Sat 10 Aug, 12.00-23.00, €29 – working the decks. Other areas boast live shows by American 1990s pop star Cece Peniston, Belgium’s Vive la Fête and Amsterdam’s Wannabeastar.

Westerpark, http://milkshake festival.nl. Sun 21 Jul, 12.00-23.00, €39.50 RUB-A-DUB The week’s being cut in two with a wonderful night of ’70s, ’80s and ’90s reggae, dancehall, ruba-dub, ska and rocksteady. With Riddimshower Hi-Fi Power and Ovadoze Movement.

Paradiso, Wed 24 Jul, 23.30-04.00, €5 JOKER@CABLE This bass/dubstep/funky club night usually presents a local line-up to its student-dominated crowd, but tonight’s a major exception. London’s Joker (Hyperdub, Tectonic, 4AD) broke

LOVELAND One of the longest-running outdoor daytime raves in the city, this one’s not known for its progressive line-up. Fedde Le Grand and Felix Da Housecat play US-style EDM, while Kerri Chandler and DJ Sneak represent the more soulful branch of electronic dance music from the same country.

Sloterpark, http://loveland.nl.

Sat 10 Aug, 11.00-23.00, €54 DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL The guys behind countless high quality smaller and medium-sized electronic music events are reaching their mature stage as they’ve organised this large, two-day outdoor festival for the first time in the history of Dekmantel’s existence. The line-up mirrors what they do with their smaller parties: a blend of quality 4/4 house and techno on the one hand and soulful, futuristic bass and experimental music on the other. We can’t mention all the names, but here’s a few: John Talabot, Gerd Janson, Jeff Mills, James Holden, Four Tet (live), Joy Orbison, Laurent Garnier, Legowelt, Pearson Sound, Pangaea, Optimo, Robert Hood (live), Xosar (live), Surgeon, Ben UFO and many more.

Amsterdamse Bos, www.dekmantel.com. Fri 23 & Sat 24 Aug, 11.00-23.00, €85 VOLTT LOVES SUMMER Techno for the purists, that’s VOLTT for you. An international line-up including Adam Beyer, Deetron, Efdemin, Loco Dice, Bart Skils, Delano Smith, Mano le Tough, Henrik Schwarz (live) and Skudge (live) play manly beats to a jackin’ crowd.

NDSM-werf, www.voltt.com. Sat 31 Aug 11.00-23.00, €39 ADDRESSES AIR Amstelstraat 16 www.air.nl Amsterdam ArenA ArenA Boulevard 1 www.amsterdamarena.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234a www.melkweg.nl OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134 http://occii.org Paradiso Weteringschans 6 www.paradiso.nl Trouw Wibautstraat 131 www.trouwamsterdam.nl

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MUSIC /POPULAR & JAZZ Choice pop & jazz

ULTRAMAGNETIC MCS Old-school Brooklyn hip hop from the classic ’80s era. FeaDEXYS turing Kool Keith, Ced Gee, TR They’re no longer going by Dexys Love and DJ Cito, the group has Midnight Runners, but this old reunited to celebrate the 25th English band thankfully hasn’t anniversary of their seminal dropped hits like ‘Come on Eialbum Critical Beatdown. leen’ and ‘Geno’. It’s not purely a Melkweg, Thur 4 Jul, revival either, as Kevin Rowland 21.00, €20 finally penned the group’s first JAZZ IN THE album since 1985.

CONCERTGEBOUW Melkweg, Mon 1 Jul, 19.30, €29 Throughout the Robeco SumLIVE SESSIONS mer Nights festival in the Royal Every week this bar hosts free Concertgebouw, each Friday music sessions: jazz on Monevening in July and August sees days, pop on Tuesdays. top jazz stars performing two Café NeL, Every Mon & Tue, intimate concerts in the Choir 20.00, free Hall. Special collaborations will be taking place throughout the TOOTS AND THE MAYTALS CAT POWER season, so look for improvised Rarely a summer passes without seeing these Jamaican Although something of a shy magic taking place every week. songstress Chan Marshall has Concertgebouw, every Fri, ska legends passing through Amsterdam. Born in 1942, always had the ability to charm 19.30/21.30 Frederick ‘Toots’ Hibbert became famous for his inimitable and surprise thanks to the apsoulful reggae style, creating passionate melodic rockTHE WHO peal of her rich yet fragile voice. steady and ska since the early ’60s. They’ve been covered Her latest album, Sun, stands It’s tough not to talk about gencountless times over the decades, from The Specials to out in her catalogue thanks to erations when considering the Amy Winehouse, but this summer show is the perfect way its more experimental use of current touring incarnation of to experience the energy and spirit of tracks like ‘Pressure electronics. these rock’n’roll legends – after Paradiso, Tue 2 Jul, 20.30, €25 all, it is only Roger Daltrey and Drop’ and ‘Funky Kingston’. Paradiso, Wed 24 July, Pete Townsend, and their riotous 20.30, €25 FRANK OCEAN moments of yesteryear are now American star presenting a bold staged somewhat more careyet subdued take on hip hop fully to protect their creaking and R&B. He’s progressed from bones. But that’s not a slight on a pop ‘ghost writer’ to memwhat are still some of the most ber indie of hip hop collective bombastic and long-lasting pop OFWGKTA, and now Ocean songs around. has found a broader appeal for Ziggo Dome, Fri 5 Jul, his solo work, tapping into the 20.00, €60-€75 expansive fan base of Kanye and RITA REYS Jay-Z following a guest slot on their Watch the Throne collab.

She’s approaching 90 years old, Heineken Music Hall, Tue 2 Jul, but Rita Reys remains the First 20.00, €39 Lady of European jazz. Born in Rotterdam in 1924, she lived TOM TOM CLUB CONCERTS IN THE PARK – ATOMS FOR PEACE through the boom years of the There’s an obvious star quality genre and still performs with BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB Prior to the release of their about Tom Tom Club, who’ve such style, grace and quality.

The world-renowned Buena debut album AMOK this been carrying the torch of newNorth Sea Jazz Club, Sat 6 Jul, Vista Social Club returns to year, Atoms for Peace almost wave pop since the early ’80s.

21.00, €20-€24 the Royal Concertgebouw seemed too bizarre on paper This husband-and-wife-led duo this month. Although unfor- to be true: a supergroup OFWGKTA (ODD FUTURE) were a key part of Talking Heads tunately already sold out, featuring Radiohead’s Thom and when they get together This Californian alternative rap they create original collective are an uncontainable, everyone is invited to share Yorke, Red Hot Chili Peppers’ dance-friendly pop. unpredictable bunch, yet also in their unmistakable Cuban Flea, record producer Nigel Melkweg, Wed 3 Jul, undeniably energetic and rauson sounds, as the entire per- Godrich, Mauro Refosco of 20.00, €20 cous. Major break-out members formance will be broadcast Forro in the Dark, and include Tyler the Creator and live on a big screen in the drummer Joey Waronker KURT ELLING SINGS SINATRA Frank Ocean.

Erasmuspark. See page 23.

(Beck, Elliott Smith).

The Royal Concertgebouw is Paradiso, Sun 7 Jul, 22.30, €21 Erasmuspark, Sat 27 July, Heineken Music Hall, Sun 7 celebrating its 125th jubilee by ROOTS OPEN-AIR revisiting key moments from its 20.00, free July, 20.00, €49 past. This month it’s ‘Blue Notes’ This outdoor event concludes and the arrival of jazz in the the Amsterdam Roots Festival. and dance music has definitely course, Earth, Wind & Fire were concert hall. To kick things off, Singer-songwriter Rokia Traoré caught the imagination of US the disco pioneers first time American jazz vocalist Kurt El(Mali) is a huge draw in 2013, audiences in recent years, and around, evolving their popular ling sings Sinatra. See page 28. having freshly released her latest Concertgebouw, Wed 3 Jul, album Beautiful Africa. Other she now even has her own reality dance music out of classic soul TV show on MTV. and R&B. 20.00, €24-€42 highlights include singerParadiso, Tue 9 Jul, Heineken Music Hall, Wed 10 songwriter Emel Mathlouthi BOMBINO 20.30, €26.50 Jul, 20.00, €59 (Tunisia), who became known The latest in a line of top musifor her protest songs during the BLONDIE NAS cians to emerge from the Tuareg Arab Spring.

Formed in the mid-’70s, Debbie One of the most popular hip hop folk scene. As you’d expect, the Oosterpark, Sun 7 Jul, Harry and Chris Stein – the two MCs of all time, Nas has been vibe is as dry as the Sahara, with 12.00, €7.50 driving forces of this American a huge player on the global rap bluesy looping riffs accompanied ERYKAH BADU outfit – proved to be a mighty and pop scene since the midby Bombino’s soothing and soulful vocals. Support from Slices of pure R&B, hip hop and songwriting force. At their peak, ’90s, notching up hit album after some three decades ago, they hit album. This tour follows the Azalai Project. pop from the charismatic Amerrelease of Life is Good, seeing Melkweg, Thur 4 Jul 19.30, €15 ican songstress. A chart-topper unleashed album after album of evolving, challenging and him post-divorce and tackling and Grammy-winner earlier in MOYA infectious pop. adulthood and nostalgia alongher career, Badu is still a major Paradiso, Wed 10 Jul, side an ’80s-inspired soundtrack.

She’s got a glam style and a neo-soul front-runner.

20.30, €50 Melkweg, Wed 10 Jul, soulful voice that can draw comMelkweg, Tue 9 Jul, 21.00, €35 parisons to Amy Winehouse at 21.00, €47.50 EARTH, WIND & FIRE times, but this young Brit songYOUTH LAGOON KE$HA With French sonic creators Daft stress dances on the safer side of Punk back at work, disco has Trevor Powers (aka Youth pop and R&B. American rapper Ke$ha brings returned to the forefront of the Lagoon) released Wondrous Paradiso, Thur 4 Jul, some glitz and bling to Amsterinternational music scene. Of Bughouse in February and it’s 20.00, €10 dam. Her blend of pop, hip hop

POPULAR & JAZZ

already proved to be an underground delight. His mix of synths, guitars and eminently quirky melodies lends an uneasy psychedelic feel to his music, but there’s also a whole host of charming weirdness to it.

Paradiso, Wed 10 Jul, 23.30, €15 THE BLACK SEEDS Mainstays of New Zealand’s thriving dub and reggae scene for more than a decade. The Black Seeds’ visits to Amsterdam are always popular and, thanks to their chilled South Pacific sound and crisp pop sensibilities, they’re a great starting point for reggae novices.

Melkweg, Fri 12 Jul, 20.00, €17.50 RICKIE LEE JONES An award-winning voice that transcends any specific genre, this tour sees the American singer promoting a collection of cover songs that was produced

by Ben Harper.

Paradiso, Fri 12 Jul, 20.30, €22.50 TILLERY Jazz meets folk with an inkling of Joni Mitchell sweetness.

North Sea Jazz Club, Fri 12 Jul, 21.00, €20-€24 GEORGE THOROGOOD & THE DESTROYERS ‘Bad to the Bone’ is one of the most distinctive and dirty blues rock riffs ever heard and it was The Destroyers who coined it way back in 1982. For almost four decades this group has been behind a steady flow of like-minded records.

Paradiso, Sat 13 Jul, 20.30, €30 GILBERTO GIL A true Brazilian musical icon: not only did he innovate the tropicália genre, mixing Western pop, rock and soul with Latin sounds, he’s also had a full political career, serving as Minister of Culture in his homeland.

Paradiso, Tue 16 Jul, 20.30, €40 BUIKA Concha Buika has proven to be an international flamenco sensation since releasing her debut album in 2005.

Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Wed 17 Jul, 20.15, €35 YEAH YEAH YEAHS New York’s Yeah Yeah Yeahs have been existing on the cusp of indie and mainstream pop for a decade with their guitardriven dance punk energy. Their latest release is Mosquito.

Paradiso, Wed 17 Jul, 20.30, €29 GEORGE CLINTON & PARLIAMENT FUNKADELIC The grand master of funk returns to Amsterdam, complete with full entourage. Expect around three hours of funk jams from this revolving cast of music’s freaks and geeks, along with a packed audience ready to go with the flow.

Paradiso, Thur 18 Jul, 20.30, €33

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MUSIC/POPULAR & JAZZ CHRISTIAN SCOTT PLAYS MILES DAVIS Young New Orleans trumpeter Christian Scott will recreate the music and vibe of Davis.

See page 28.

Concertgebouw, Sat 20 Jul, 23.59, €20-€35

FILIP JORDENS PLAYS but a DIY music ethic that still JACQUES BREL inspires indie bands to this day.

Melkweg, Sat 10 Aug, 19.30, €25 Belgian troubadour Filip Jordens has covered the works of MERCHANDISE Brel extensively. See page 28.

This hotly tipped American Concertgebouw, Fri 2 Aug, outfit continue to have sonic 20.00, €21-€33 associations with Depeche NICK OLIVERI’S MONDO Mode, Echo & The Bunnymen BITTY MCLEAN GENERATOR and The Smiths.

Melkweg, Wed 14 Aug, This British-Jamaican singer The wild child of Queens of the 19.30, €11 has always favoured the more Stone Age deals in raucous soulful side of reggae, racking up stoner rock and metal.

LAMB OF GOD an impressive flow of hits in the Bitterzoet, Sun 4 Aug, Alongside Machine Head and early ’90s.

21.00, €12 Mastodon, Lamb of God are one Melkweg, Thur 25 Jul, SNOOP LION of the most reliable exponents of 20.00, €17.50 groove-metal and thrash.

When old-school hip hopper JOSH RITTER Melkweg, Thur 15 Aug, Snoop Dogg reinvented himself 19.30, €20 American singer-songwriter Ritas Snoop Lion in 2012, fans ter is an earnest player, creating weren’t quite sure whether it was BRENDAN BENSON carefully constructed folk and a gimmick or a new beginning.

These days Brendan Benson pop with masterful bittersweet A year on and the rapper is still is most famous for his work melancholic melodies. sticking to his new reggae roots. alongside Jack White in The RaParadiso, Thur 25 Jul, Heineken Music Hall, Tue 6 conteurs, but he’s actually been 20.30, €17.50 Aug, 20.00, €44 producing incisive blasts of pop ERIC BURDON & THE B-52S and rock since the ’90s.

THE ANIMALS Paradiso, Tue 20 Aug, The ‘Love Shack’ may be looking 21.30, €12.50 Emerging almost 50 years ago, a bit rougher round the edges this group laid down a bluesy, these days, but American newSYSTEM OF A DOWN psychedelic legacy. wave icons The B52s can still When they emerged in the late Paradiso, Sun 28 Jul, manage a pretty powerful vocal ’90s System of a Down were like 20.30, €32.50 assault. nothing else on the heavy-metal Paradiso, Fri 9 Aug, REGINA SPEKTOR scene, blowing away the dusty 20.30, €37.50 corpse of nu-metal with their Experimental baroque pop from BLACK FLAG explosive thrash-meets-circusthe New York-based meets-Armenian folk. singer-songwriter.

Arguably America’s most influZiggo Dome, Wed 21 Aug, Paradiso, Wed 31 Jul, ential punk band, spawning not 20.00, €49 20.30, €30 only the hardcore punk scene

Philip Mechanicus Fotograaf / Photographer 24.05 – 27.10.2013

CULTURE CLASH of catchy rock. Featuring a number of alternative rock’s great The Jazz Orchestra of the players, expect Tomahawk to be Concertgebouw takes us on a on sharp form. musical journey through time, Paradiso, Tue 27 Aug, 20.30, blending the dance music of €22.50 the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s with jive, rock’n’roll, disco and dance. The ADDRESSES music is supported by archive Bimhuis footage from the archives of Piet Heinkade 3 EYE. http://bimhuis.nl Part of the Grachtenfestival.

Bitterzoet EYE Film Museum, Fri 23 Aug, Spuistraat 2 22.00, €18 www.bitterzoet.com JUNGLE BY NIGHT & Café NeL JONGNBE Amstelveld 12 http://nelamstelveld.nl The Royal Navy celebrates its EYE Film Museum 525th anniversary by opening IJpromenade 1 normally restricted marine land www.eyefilm.nl opposite the Overdokseiland for Heineken Music Hall a party with the JongNBE. An ArenA Boulevard 590, ensemble of top students of the www.heineken-music-hall.nl Dutch conservatories, expect Melkweg a swinging mix of Afrobeat, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, Ethiojazz, Dub, Funk and Rock. www.melkweg.nl Part of the Grachtenfestival.

Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Kattenburgerstraat 7, Sat 24 Piet Heinkade 1, Aug, 19.00, €17 www.muziekgebouw.nl A TRIBUTE TO ARETHA North Sea Jazz Club FRANKLIN Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com Dutch singer-songwriter Trijntje Paradiso Oosterhuis leads a soulful Weteringschans 6-8, tribute to Franklin. See page 28. www.paradiso.nl Concertgebouw, Sat 24 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw 20.00, €24-€42 Concertgebouwplein 10, TOMAHAWK www.concertgebouw.nl Ziggo Dome The new album from Faith No ArenA boulevard 61 More’s Mike Patton, Oddfellows, www.ziggodome.nl has surprisingly great moments

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MUSIC/CLASSICAL RADIO CHAMBER GRACHTENFESTIVAL ORCHESTRA Entering its 16th year, this highCLASSICAL In 2005 the Radio Chamber ly successful festival combines Orchestra began its performance classical concerts with the city’s PATRICIA KOPATCHINSKAJA career with Mendelssohn’s Fifth, canals. See page 22.

This Moldovan violinist calls so it’s fitting that this grand work Various locations, Fri 16-Sun upon Eastern European folk is revisited for the orchestra’s 25 Aug, various times & prices traditions and classical greats. farewell concert.

LIZA FERSCHTMAN THANKS This evening she joins the Concertgebouw, Sun 14 Jul, BRAHMS Amsterdam Sinfonietta for 14.15, €20-€35 works by Mozart, Mendelssohn Violinist Ferschtman joins SymJOHN WILLIAMS’ and Korngold. fonieorkest Vlaanderen for a FILM MUSIC Concertgebouw, Tue 2 Jul, classic Brahms: Violin Concerto 20.00, €24-€42 John Williams has soundin D and Symphony No.1. tracked many of the biggest Concertgebouw, Sun 18 Aug, TWO RUSSIANS Hollywood blockbusters since 20.00, €24-€42 Pianist Nikolai Lugansky perthe mid-’70s. The Netherlands PASSION forms Rachmaninoff ’s exceedSymphony Orchestra celebrates ingly technical and emotionally his most recognisable works.

French-Canadian conductor charged Piano Concerto No.2.

Concertgebouw, Fri 19 Jul, Yannick Nézet-Séguin takes the The National Orchestra of Bel20.00, €20-€35 helm of the fantastic Rotterdam gium will also perform Wagner’s Philharmonic Orchestra for BEETHOVEN PIANO Prelude from The Flying DutchTchaikovsky’s Romeo & Juliet CONCERTOS RHEINGOLD ON THE RHINE man and Beethoven’s Eroica.

Fantasy-Overture, Wagner’s Concertgebouw, Fri 5 Jul, The Wiener Kammerorchester Wesendonck-Lieder and Amongst the many milestones in Amsterdam this year, 20.00, €32-€55 and pianist Stefan Vladar will Prokofiev’s Fifth Symphony, 2013 also marks the 200th anniversary of Wagner’s birth perform all five of Beethoven’s while soprano Anna Caterina and it’ll be celebrated with a three-day festival of music at KRISTIAN BEZUIDENHOUT’S Piano Concertos.

Antonacci guests.

Passenger Terminal Amsterdam. Austrian brass ensemble MOZART Concertgebouw, Thur 25 & Fri Concertgebouw, Tue 20 Aug, Mnozil Brass open the first night with a Monty PythonThe master pianist performs 26 Jul, 20.00, €24-€42 20.00, €32-€55 esque take on Wagner’s music. Night two is the Wagner Mozart’s 18th Piano Concerto MASTERS OF BAROQUE VILDE FRANG PLAYS and Bruckner’s magnificent Experience, mixing a 90-piece symphony orchestra with BRUCH’S GREATEST HIT Ninth. With the Radio PhilharAn evening of music from the rock, hip hop and film. The final night is a unique rendition monic Orchestra and conducted Baroque era, including Bach, TeNorwegian violinist Frang of Das Rheingold. Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, Tue

by Jonathan Nott. lemann, Geminiani and Vivaldi. performs Bruch’s First Violin 16-Thur 18 Jul, 20.00, €25-€82.50 Concertgebouw, Sat 6 Jul, Concertgebouw, Sun 28 Jul, Concerto with the Gothenburg 20.00, €24-€42 20.00, €20-€35 Symphony Orchestra, as well as Martinsson’s Tour de force and KIT ARMSTRONG, BARBER’S MUSSORGSKY AND Tchaikovsky’s Fourth.

ADAGIO AND SCHUBERT BEETHOVEN Concertgebouw, Wed 21 Aug, Young American pianist The Polish Szymanowski Quar20.00, €24-€42 Kit Armstrong performs tet performs excerpts from OPERA IN THE GARDEN Schumann’s Piano Concerto, Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an with the Residentie Orkest Exhibition, arranged for quartet Harking back to opera’s beginas well as Barber’s Adagio for

by Miroslav Skoryk. nings as courtly entertainment Strings and Schubert’s Ninth Concertgebouw, Tue 30 Jul, in Italy, the annual Opera in the Symphony.

20.00, €24-€41 Garden performances at MuConcertgebouw, Sun 7 Jul, seum van Loon are a beautiful AMSTEL QUARTET 20.00, €24-€42 experience. The focus this year The classical saxophone quartet is Sir William Turner Walton’s THOMAS OLIEMANS & delves into the world of minione-act opera The Bear, based STEVE REICH’S DRUMMING PRINSENGRACHT CONCERT MALCOLM MARTINEAU malism, from modern composon Chekhov’s play.

Steve Reich’s Drumming One of the highlights of the The baritone and piano duo ers such as Philip Glass, Michael Museum van Loon, Wed 21-Sun comes from a tribal backGrachtenfestival this is a performs Franz Schubert’s Nyman and Tan Dun, all the way 25 Aug, various times, €18 ground, and this especially spectacular classical extravafirst major song cycle: Die schöne back to moments from Mozart.

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW physical work, making use of ganza on the water. Teaming Müllerin.

Concertgebouw, Sun 4 Aug, ORCHESTRA Concertgebouw, Mon 8, Mon 15 20.00, €21-€33 a number of drummers and up with the Royal Concert& Wed 17 Jul, 20.00, €27-€41 Daniele Gatti has the honour of gradual phasing techniques, gebouw Orchestra is the MOZART WITH CUARTETO opening the Royal Concertgeis meant to be felt as well Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja, AN ITALIAN SUMMER WITH QUIROGA bouw Orchestra’s new season, as heard. Tonight’s perforwho is sure to enrapture audiNICOLA BENEDETTI The dynamic Spanish quartet conducting works by Lumance, led by percussionist ences with a number of wellYoung Scottish violinist Nicola takes listeners on a global tour, tosławski, Bartók and Prokofiev.

Colin Currie (pictured), allows loved arias. The orchestra Benedetti won the BBC Young with Mozart’s String Quartet Concertgebouw, Thur 22 Aug, spectators to lie down in the will also be performing TchaiMusician of the Year in 2004.

(KV 428), Respighi’s Il tramonto 20.00, €32-€55 Here she taps into her own and DvoÐák’s String Sextet in A. concert hall and feel every kovsky’s spectacular 1812 MAHLER FIVE AND HAYDN Italian heritage for an Italian Concertgebouw, Thur 8 Aug, beat. Concertgebouw, Sat Overture. Prinsengracht, Sat WITH BRAUTIGAM inspired programme by a selec20.00, €27-€41 10 Aug, 20.00, €35 24 Aug, 20.00, free tion of non-Italians: Stravinsky, The Radio Philharmonic OrJOSHUA BELL PLAYS Mozart and Mendelssohn. chestra presents a programme TCHAIKOVSKY Concertgebouw, Wed 10 Jul, of music that asks life’s great formance of this amazing youth no surprise that she’s the recip20.00, €20-€35 The Australian Youth Orchestra questions: Ives’s The Unanopera. Berlioz’s Symphonie ient of the MacArthur Fellowpresents Tchaikovsky’s Violin swered Question, Haydn’s Piano MENDELSSOHN’S SCOTTISH fantastique is a show-stopping ship (Genius Grant). Here she Concerto in D with violinist Concerto in D and Mahler’s JOURNEY closer, but the concert also performs Elgar’s moving Cello Joshua Bell; Rimsky-Korsakov’s Fifth. With pianist Ronald features L’invitation à la Concerto in E. Maasaki Suzuki conducts this Scheherazade; and Sculthorpe’s Brautigam; conducted by valse and Stravinsky’s Concertgebouw, Fri 30 Aug, concert centred on MendelsEarth Cry with solo didgeridooMarkus Stenz.

Petrushka Suite.

20.00, €24-€42 sohn’s works inspired by his time ist William Barton.

Concertgebouw, Sun 25 Aug, Concertgebouw, Wed 28 Aug, in Scotland: The Hebrides overConcertgebouw, Tue 13 Aug, 20.00, €32-€55 20.00, €24-€42 ture and his Scottish Symphony.

20.00, €24-€42 ADRESSES ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW Concertgebouw, Fri 12 Jul, TURNING POINTS CONCERTS IN THE PARK: ORCHESTRA Concertgebouw 20.00, €20-€35 A SUMMERNIGHT Het Gelders Orkest presents Concertgebouwplein 10, Daniele Gatti leads for Mahler’s ISABELLE FAUST AND PICAT THE OPERA two monumental classical www.concertgebouw.nl Ninth symphony. It was the last TURES AT AN EXHIBITION works: Beethoven’s Violin Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ The Nationale Reisopera will symphony Mahler completed Concerto in D and Schumann’s Piet Heinkade 1, Violinist Isabelle Faust guests be performing popular Italian and was first performed in the Third Symphony. www.muziekgebouw.nl with the Orchestre Philharmo- arias inside the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouw in 1918.

Concertgebouw, Thur 29 Aug, Museum Van Loon nique du Luxembourg for works but you can also enjoy these Concertgebouw, Mon 26 Aug, 20.00, €24-€42 Keizersgracht 672

by Brahms, Mendelssohn’s Vioclassical treats in the great 20.00, €32-€55 www.museumvanloon.nl lin Concerto and Mussorgsky’s outdoors, as the entire perforELGAR’S CELLO CONCERTO EUROPEAN UNION YOUTH Passenger Terminal most renowned work, the virtuo- mance will be broadcast live on ORCHESTRA Young American cellist Alisa Amsterdam so Pictures at an Exhibition. a big screen in the Flevopark.

Weilerstein first picked up the Piet Heinkade 27 Concertgebouw, Sat 13 Jul, Concertgebouw/Flevopark, Wed An annual tradition as the www.ptamsterdam.nl 20.00, €24-€42 14 Aug, 20.00, €24-€42/free summer season ends is the per- bow at age four, so perhaps it’s CHRIS DAWES

Choice classical

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There’s plenty to see and to do at this historic and typically Dutch location.

Many of the characteristic regional houses are now museums or workshops, which demonstrate traditional crafts and provide eager visitors with plenty of photo opportunities and souvenirs.

Clog-makers, cheese-makers, a distillery, pewter caster and a coopery all offer a taste of the past, while restaurants and cafés, museums and attractive shopping streets cater to all tastes and ages.

Should you feel like getting closer to nature at this once so industrial location, take a river and polder cruise or rent a bike and do the exploring yourself. A fun day out for all the family.

>

GETTING THERE Located just 15 minutes outside of Amsterdam, from Central Station take the train to Koog-Zaandijk. Zaanse Schans is a ten-minute walk from the station.

For more information, visit the Zaanse Schans Information Desk Zaans Museum Schansend 7 1509 AW Zaandam Tel +31 (0)75 681 0000 www.zaanseschans.nl

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jul & aug 2013

EXHIBITIONS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS FRIDAY NIGHT AT THE VAN GOGH MUSEUM Every Friday night, the Van Gogh Museum stays open late.

With a bar in place, they dim the lights and invite DJs, VJs and live acts to perform to the backdrop of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Van Gogh Museum, every Fri STEPHEN GILL: BEST BEFORE END Photographic series inspired by the London Borough of Hackney – a diverse and evolving neighbourhood in the east of the English capital.

Foam, until 7 Jul

AMSTERDAM AND SLAVERY On 1 July, the city commemorates the 150th anniversary of the abolition of slavery in former Dutch colonies. Featuring excerpts from the archives kept

by Amsterdam families and by mercantile houses, this exhibition helps visitors imagine what life was like during the period.

Amsterdam City Archives, until 18 Aug AERNOUT MIK: COMMUNITAS Video installations, created between 1999 and 2013, which critically examine the psychological state of modern society.

Staged films reference socio-political themes such as economic downturn, global crises and racial tension.

Stedelijk Museum, until 25 Aug

PETER THE GREAT A highlight of the Netherlands– Russia 2013 celebrations, featuring a huge selection of art and priceless exhibits.

Hermitage Amsterdam, until 13 Sep

LUCY MCKENZIE: SOMETHING THEY HAVE TO LIVE WITH Works by the Scottish artist acclaimed for her trompe l’oeil painting technique which straddles art and craftwork.

Stedelijk Museum, until 22 Sep

SWEETS: ARCHITECTURAL GEMS Examining the architectural, cultural and functional aspects of bridge control buildings throughout Amsterdam, using infographics and photos.

ARCAM, until 21 Sep

IMAGINING SLAVERY Using maps, books, prints and other objects to explore the history of slavery in the former Dutch colony of Suriname.

UvA Special Collections, until 22 Sep

Choice exhibits

STAESKE REBERS

FONDAZIONE FEDERICO FELLINI, RIMINI

MONICA NOUWENS: LOOK AT ME AND TELL ME IF YOU HAVE KNOWN ME BEFORE DRAWING FOR AMSTERDAM Project exploring the ambivalent Subtitled ‘Artists Imagine the attraction of Los Angeles. NouCity’, with drawings, etchings wens’ raw, emotionally charged and linocuts by more than 50 images show how the impending contemporary artists. twilight transforms the city into Amsterdam City Archives, a magical fairy tale and, conuntil 25 Aug versely, how this charm can also THE GOLDEN AGE: disappear alarmingly quickly.

GATEWAY TO OUR WORLD Foam, until 14 Jul Using cutting-edge new media ENCOUNTERS: HIDDEN alongside world-class historic STORIES FROM OUR OWN pieces, the Amsterdam Museum COLLECTION delves into the Dutch Golden FELLINI: THE EXHIBITION The Tropenmuseum explores Age like never before.

A major exhibition delving into the life, work and boundthe hidden tales behind items Amsterdam Museum, less imagination of pioneering Italian post-war cinematogfrom its own extensive collecuntil 1 Sep tion, pairing together a series of rapher Federico Fellini. An enormous range of projected COBRA: EN PLEIN AIR objects to explore what happens film fragments, photographs, records, letters and posters when two ostensibly different The largest private collection of provide an unprecedented insight into what inspired and things are brought together.

CoBrA works in the world, on motivated the man behind films including La Strada, La Tropenmuseum, until 14 Jul display for the first time in the Dolce Vita and 8½. Accompanied by a retrospective film Netherlands, supplemented by programme. EYE Film Museum, until 29 Sep THERA REGOUIN: highlights from the museum.

RECOLLECTIONS: BERLIN – Cobra Museum, BRASILIA – AMSTERDAM until 1 Sep Twelve years of work by the MIKE KELLEY THE SORROW OF THE Dutch-Brazilian painter, proArtistically active from the late 1970s through to his unGOLDEN AGE duced during her travels in the timely death early in 2012, Kelley worked with a wide array three titular cities.

Special slavery trail through of media including textile banners, drawings, photographs Museum Jan van der Togt, the Golden Age: Gateway to our and found objects, adeptly blending high and low culture. until 14 Jul World exhibition, examining Spread over the entirety of a new space at the renovated Amsterdam’s role in the slave LARA DHONDT: MOMENTO trade and slavery.

Stedelijk, the retrospective comprises over 200 paintings, Foam 3h presents black-andAmsterdam Museum, sculptures, objects, works on paper, videos and multimedia white photos – printed on rusted until 1 Sep installations. This is the first full retrospective of Kelley’s steel, cardboard and wood – by work since 1993, and the largest overview of his work ever BEASTLY BEAUTY the Belgian multimedia artist acPHOTOSYNTHESIS: SCULPTURES BY organised. Stedelijk Museum, until 1 Apr claimed for her documentation Examining the role of animals A NEW LIGHT ON PLANTS HENRY MOORE of forgotten and found objects, in Jewish art. In the Jewish traThe Palm Greenhouse at The Rijks Museum celebrates materials and locations in the dition, ceremonial objects were urban landscape. decorated with animals and the Amsterdam Botanical the official opening of its Foam, until 17 Jul labels featuring animals were Gardens hosts a summer beautifully redeveloped mualso used to personalise objects, photography and film exhibi- seum gardens (which are free ENTOS discouraging theft. tion of work by Amsterdam to access) with an outdoor The first Dutch maritime exhiJewish Historical Museum, artists collective ‘Tropisme’, exhibition featuring a selecbition (ENTOS) took place in until 1 Sep featuring images of plant tion of major works by EngAmsterdam-Noord 100 years THE ROYAL PALACE AND life captured using unusual – lish sculptor Henry Moore. ago and to mark the occasion, DAM SQUARE the event makes a welcome reoften scientific – techniques, The exhibition includes turn. On display are 12 original Temporary exhibition using including infrared, X-ray and 12 of Moore’s bronze and paintings by Dutch artist Hobbe photographs and a variety of microscope lenses, producfibreglass sculptures, which Smith commissioned for ENartworks to reflect on the good ing a unique collection of explore many of the major TOS 1913, which haven’t been times, bad times and other fascinating, often alienating themes in his work. presented together since. memorable events linked to the images. Hortus Botanicus, Rijks Museum gardens, Kromhouthal Amsterdam, Royal Palace and Dam square until 15 Sep until 29 Sep until 28 Jul between 1613 and 2013.

Amsterdam Royal Palace, INAUGURATED! until 5 Sep ARTZUID WALKER EVANS: DECADE One-off exhibition focusing on EDWARD STEICHEN:

BY DECADE the inaugurations of seven genInternational sculpture route IN HIGH FASHION erations of the Orange-Nassau through the district of Zuid, fea- Exhibition devoted to the entire family, allowing visitors to relive Exhibition examining the career turing a range of contemporary body of work by influential inaugurations of yesteryear of American photographer and work from around the world. See American photographer Walker using major loaned pieces: garartist Edward Steichen, with www.artzuid.nl or visit the inEvans, featuring images never ments, artefacts and images. more than 200 photographs. formation point (Minervalaan 1). before on public display.

De Nieuwe Kerk, until 18 Aug Foam, until 6 Sep District of Zuid, until 22 Sep Huis Marseille, until 22 Sep

SLAVERY ON THE AMSTERDAM CANALS Exhibition reflecting on the abolition of slavery in former Dutch colonies, examining the historical impact of slavery on the city’s wealthy Canal District.

Museum Geelvinck-Hinlopen Huis, until 30 Sep BOWIE BY DUFFY – PHOTOGRAPHS ’72 –’80 An exclusive selection of images of David Bowie, photographed by the late great fashion photographer Brian Duffy. &Foam, until 6 Oct PETER VOS: METAMORPHOSEN More than 100 figurative drawings, sketches and prints inspired by Greek mythology – especially Ovid’s Metamorphoses – as well as the artist’s ‘personal mythology’.

Rembrandthuis, until 6 Oct ARTIFICIAL AMSTERDAM Guest curators combine new work with historic pieces to examine the idea of Amsterdam as a man-made city.

De Appel Arts Centre, until 13 Oct PHILIP MECHANICUS The first major retrospective of work by Amsterdam photographer and publicist Philip Mechanicus (19362005), best known for his strikingly sober yet penetrating black and white portraits of authors, poets and artists. See page 66.

Jewish Historical Museum, until 27 Oct PIXAR: 25 YEARS OF ANIMATION Featuring more than 500 original artworks flown in from the Pixar Animation Studios in California.

Amsterdam Expo, until 27 Oct REMBRANDT: ALL HIS PAINTINGS All 325 of Rembrandt’s paintings together in one place for the first time, as high-quality reproductions, representing a lifetime of research into the artist to provide insight into his development.

Magna Plaza, until 31 Dec VAN GOGH AT WORK The culmination of seven years of fastidious research into Van Gogh, featuring more than 200 paintings, works on paper, sketchbooks and letters.

Van Gogh Museum, until 13 Jan 2014 ETERNAL EGYPT EXPERIENCE A multimedia journey of discovery into the vast history of Ancient Egypt. At the heart is a 20-minute multimedia show that takes you through the highlights.

Allard Pierson Museum, 12 Jul-5 Jan 2014 OTTO KAAN: WORKS Part of the Foam 3h programme for young talent, Berend Otto and Guus Kaandorp playfully examine their studio.

Foam, 19 Jul-11 Sep

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PART IV THE A-LIST

EXHIBITIONS MARNIX GOOSSENS: YONDER Photographs of surrogate nature in run-down interiors.

Foam, 19 Jul-6 Oct

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS

MUSEUM VAN LOON With much of its original interior intact, the museum collection comprises paintings, antique furnishings and objects d’art.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is now on display in the beautifully restored historical building, with fixed spots for highlights such as ‘The Beanery’

by Edward Kienholz and works

by Willem de Kooning and Andy Warhol. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the best pieces from the design collection.

ANNE FRANK HOUSE TROPENMUSEUM Prinsengracht 263 is where The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ Anne Frank lived in hiding with has eight geographically themed REMBRANDTHUIS her family for more than two permanent exhibitions and an years during World War II. Now The house that Rembrandt ongoing series of temporary converted into a museum, it con- called home for nearly 20 years presentations, including both tains a sobering exhibition about boasts an impressive collection modern and traditional visual the persecution of the Jews and of drawings and paintings by the arts and photographic work. persecution in a wider context. Old Master himself as well as by WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN his contemporaries.

EYE FILM MUSUEM MUSEUM RIJKS MUSEUM Cinematography museum home The only completely period furto an internationally renowned After a decade of unprecedented nished canal-side house in Amcollection of films covering the renovation, the Rijks Museum sterdam open daily to the public, whole history of cinema. finally showed off its new look in with a remarkable collection of April 2013. Embark on a journey Golden Age art and silverware.

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN through Dutch art and history HOUSE ADDRESSES from the Middle Ages and A decadent canal-side mansion Renaissance right up until the Allard Pierson Museum showcasing 17th-century 20th century.

Oude Turfmarkt 127 patrician wealth. www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM Amsterdam City Archives HET GRACHTENHUIS The National Maritime Museum Vijzelstraat 32 (MUSEUM OF THE explores various elements of http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl CANALS) maritime life through history.

Amsterdam Expo A tribute to the Canal District, Moored outside is the AmGustav Mahlerlaan 24 with multimedia exhibitions sterdam, an exact replica of a www.amsterdamexpo.nl showing how the engineering famous Dutch East India ComAmsterdam Museum marvel was built. pany ship.

Kalverstraat 92

http://amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org De Appel Arts Centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600 www.arcam.nl Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1 Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl EYE Film Museum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl Foam Keizersgracht 609 http://foam.org &Foam Vijzelstraat 78 http://foam.org/andfoam Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 http://geelvinck.nl Het Grachtenhuis Herengracht 386 http://hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2a http://dehortus.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl Museum Jan van der Togt Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen www.jvdtogt.nl

Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 www.jhm.nl De Kromhouthal Gedempt Hamerkanaal 87 www.kromhouthal.com De Nieuwe Kerk Dam square www.nieuwekerk.nl Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl Rembrandthuis Jodenbreestraat 4 www.rembrandthuis.nl Rijks Museum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace Dam, www.paleisamsterdam.nl Het Scheepvaartmuseum Kattenburgerplein 1 www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 http://stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 www.tropenmuseum.nl UvA Special Collections Oude Turfmarkt 129 www.bijzonderecollecties.uva.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Museum Van Loon Keizersgracht 672 www.museumvanloon.nl Willet-Holthuysen Museum Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl

in july / august

Fellini The Exhibition Dial M for Murder 3D The Loneliest Planet with Gael Garcia Bernal Info & tickets: www.eyefilm.nl EYE_ADV_UITKRANT_176x121.indd 1

Tetro Francis Ford Coppola 17/06/2013 11:42

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jul & aug 2013

STAGE

OPERA: TOSCA Puccini’s Tosca remains an international favourite and even newcomers to opera will likely recognise many of its major arias thanks to the recordings of popular tenors such as Pavarotti and Andrea Bocelli. Here, Capucine Chiaudani and Adriano Graziani sing the leads.

Concertgebouw, Mon 1 Jul, 19.30, €24-€42 OPERA: KATIBU DI SHON As Amsterdam marks the 150th anniversary of the abolition of slavery, this Papiamentu opera will premiere in the city. Based on Carel de Haseth’s novel Slave and Master, a historic tale of love and resistance, it stars mezzo-soprano Tania Kross with a score by Dutch/ Surinamese jazz keyboardist Randal Corsen.

Stadsschouwburg, Mon 1 Jul, 20.30, €15-€42.50 COMEDY: BABY I LIKE IT RAW! Boom Chicago gets back to basics: pure, improv-driven comedy. Expect a scene or two and some current events commentary, but above all, expect no holds to be barred.

Boom Chicago, every Tue, Wed Thur, Fri, Sat & Sun, 19.45, €18-€20.

with lots of dry humour and irony. Here she was inspired by the desire that some people have to start again, somewhere far away. Alaska’s characters are a diverse group of people who find each other in a ‘dream’ move to Alaska.

Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Tue 2 & Wed 3 Jul, 20.30, €12.50-€27.50 DANCE: 4 & 5 Choreographer Tao Ye presents the daring side of the Chinese dance scene. In 4, four

stalwart, invites a host of top international stand-up talent to make the trip to the Dutch capital, with two comedians performing on four consecutive nights before handing the baton to another duo, for the Comedytrain International Summer Festival. Tonight, the Americans are in the house.

See page 28.

Toomler, Wed 3-Sat 6 Jul, 20.30, €12.50-€17.50 DANCE: BIJLMER DANST In the Bijlmer Parktheater, a location teeming with

Highlight theatre

ALWIN POIANA

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

DOUBLE POINTS: VERDI In this operatic dance performance, choreographers Emio Greco and Pieter C Scholten of ICKamsterdam breathe new life into the prima donnas of Giuseppe Verdi, born 200 years ago this year. In doing so, they give physical voices to three heroines of Italian opera: Violetta from La Traviata, Giovanna from Giovanna d’Arco and Desdemona from Othello. Theater Bellevue, Sun 7 & Mon 8 July, 20.30, €22.50

MULTIDISCIPLINARY: ROZENTUIN FESTIVAL women seem to be propelled by a magnetic wave that someThis annual performance times pulls them apart, and festival is a place for young then seems to push them totalents to shine, offering up a gether again – yet never touchvibrant mix of dance, music, ing. In the world premiere of 5, theatre, acrobatics, films, the dancers engage in physical multimedia and whatever else they can dream up. See the contact – so much so that they never part. Part of Julidans. next generation of Dutch See page 24. performers now.

Stadsschouwburg, Royal Theatre Carré, Wed 3 & Thur 4 Jul, 21.00, Tue 2 Jul, 19.30, €10 €12.50-€27.50 COMEDY: THE SEVEN OPERA: DEATH DEADLY DUTCH SINS IN VENICE As Boom Chicago celebrates its Thomas Mann’s famous no20th year, the comedy troupe vella, Death in Venice, was the unleashed a brand new show. inspiration behind Benjamin As they note: ‘We’ve been Britten’s final – and possibly living and working here, obfinest – opera, which preserving, interpreting and gathmiered in 1973. Its English ering material for 20 years. libretto (language no probNow we get into the national psyche and make fun of things lem!) deals with a disillusioned writer convalescing in Venice, you never noticed, or never who finds himself irresistibly questioned.’ Along the way they touch on Dutch birthdays, drawn to a beautiful adolescent boy staying in his hotel. weddings, the Royals, health Under the spell of the decaservice and more. Tonight is dent, sensual city and in the your last chance to shadow of a cholera epidemic, catch it. his captivation soon becomes a Boom Chicago, Tue 2 Jul, deadly obsession. See page 25.

20.30, €22 Het Muziektheater, Wed 3, Fri DANCE: ALASKA 5 & Sun 7 Jul, various times, €15-€115 Choreographer and filmmaker Gunilla Heilborn combines COMEDY: ALI WONG & text, movement, film and YANNIS PAPAS performance in her work. Her choreographies about familiar, Every year comedy club Toomhuman struggles are flavoured ler, usually a Dutch-language

creativity, Julidans hosts part of the dance forum Multiple Moves, featuring works by international choreographers.

Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Bijlmer Parktheater, Thur 4 Jul, 20.00, €13.50 DANCE: HA! In Moroccan choreographer Bouchra Ouizguen’s new performance, HA!, she examines madness in all its manifestations. To prepare for this performance, Ouizguen and the dancers spent several months in Moroccan neighbourhoods observing how people on the street behave. Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Theater Bellevue, Thur 4 Jul, 20.30, €22.50 MULTIDISCIPLINARY: OVER HET IJ The unpredictable annual Over het IJ theatre festival brings a summery blend of locationspecific theatre, DJs and fabulous food to AmsterdamNoord and the formerly industrial docklands. Not everything is language-no-problem, but there’s often something to keep you entertained if you turn up with an open mind. And the festive atmosphere alone justifies the journey. See page 16.

NDSM-werf, Thur 4-Sun 14 Jul, various times & prices

DANCE: GAZE IS A GAP IS A GHOST In his latest work, Daniel Linehan uses projected video images to look at the dance floor and theatre through the eyes of his three dancers.

Within this he has created a surprising experience: although seated in chairs, the audience can observe the room as if they were moving around it. Part of Julidans.

See page 24.

Melkweg Theater, Fri 5 & Sat 6 Jul, 19.00, €14 DANCE: DISABLED THEATER The actors of the Swiss HORA Theatre, a company for people with an intellectual disability, confront us with the enormous gap between those with and without such diagnoses in our society. The production is coordinated by Jérôme Bel, who is considered one of the most influential dance-makers in Europe. The results are surprising, moving and very entertaining. Elements are in Swiss-German with English translations. Part of Julidans.

See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Fri 5 & Sat 6 Jul, 21.00, €12.50-€27.50 DANCE: JULIDANS IN VONDELPARK Four modern dance performances amidst the tranquillity of Vondelpark’s open-air theatre. Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Vondelpark Open-air Theatre, ww.openluchttheater.nl.

Fri 5 & 12 Jul, 20.30, free

bretto recorded their testimonies and their faces are projected as life-size images behind the dancers – who are exposed to an endless onslaught of weather-related disasters onstage – including a rain storm.

Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Sat 6 & Sun 7 Jul, 20.30, €10-€25 DANCE: I LIKE TO WATCH TOO One of the regular highlights of the Julidans festival is this two-day affair in Paradiso, which presents the hottest young dance talents and choreographers in surprising, intimate and up-close ways.

You see, the action isn’t just on stage: you might bump into a performance in the basement bar or toilets. The action goes on late into the night, morphing into a dance party, then returns the following afternoon. Part of Julidans.

See page 24.

Paradiso, Sat 6 & Sun 7 Jul, 21.00/15.00, €15 DANCE: SHOWROOMDUMMIES #3 / OBJETS RE-TROUVÉS Julidans presents two choreographies by renowned choreographers, created at the special invitation of the French Ballet de Lorraine: Gisèle Vienne & Mathilde Monnier. Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Mon 8 & Tue 9 Jul, 21.00, €12.50-€32.50

DANCE: TRAGÉDIE A dance poem for 18 dancers.

The French choreographer COMEDY: SHOT Olivier Dubois continues his OF IMPROV search for humanity, putting Shot of Improv sees the entire nine men and nine women toBoom Chicago cast take to the gether on stage. He shows what happens as they discover themstage, so the laughs are selves and each other again guaranteed to keep on comin’.

– individually, in pairs and as a Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big group. Expect plenty of nudity.

Part of Julidans. and never slows down.

See page 24.

Boom Chicago, every Sat, Stadsschouwburg, Tue 9 Jul, 23.00, €14 20.30, €12.50-€27.50 OPERA: BELVEDÈRE DANCE: FOLK-S WILL SINGING COMPETITION YOU STILL LOVE ME Until now, the famous TOMORROW Belvedère Singing Competition Alessandro Sciarroni’s FOLK-s has always taken place in originated from his fascinaVienna. However, 2013 sees tion for old folk dances and the world’s biggest and most how they have managed to renowned competition for retain their popularity today. young opera singers also visit He asked a group of contemAmsterdam for the first time. porary dancers to rehearse With a reputation as a springa dance form that is quite board into fully-fledged opera different from their everyday careers, the contest attracts performances – the Austrian/ some of the strongest young voices in the world. Following Bavarian ‘Shuhplattler’. Part of Julidans. See page 24. semi-finals in De Kleine Theater Bellevue, Wed 10 & Komedie on 3 and 4 July, the Thur 11 Jul, 20.30, €22.50 grand final is this evening.

Het Muziektheater, Sat 6 Jul, COMEDY: GLENN WOOL 19.30, €17.50-€40 & PAUL MYREHAUG DANCE: SFUMATO Part of Comedytrain International Summer Festival, the The Algerian-French choreogCanadians take up the baton. rapher Ouramdane bases his Glenn Wool’s stand-up is work on true stories. He known to veer between sagely interweaves fact with fiction, political and gleefully silly, and concrete images with while Paul Myrehaug tells abstract, poetic dance. His hilariously cringe-inducing latest work is about people anecdotes. See page 28. who are driven from their land Toomler, Wed 10-Sat 13 Jul, as a result of environmental 20.30, €12.50-€17.50 disasters. Writer Sonia Cham-

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PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE DANCE: PLATEAU EFFECT Jefta van Dinther’s new performance promises to be a journey through the senses. Once again, the Swedish-Dutch choreographer works together with talented sound designer David Kiers and light designer Minna Tiikkainen to draw the audience into a magic world in which light and sound act as fully-fledged partners of the dancers. Part of Julidans.

See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Thur 11 Jul, 20.30, €12.50-€27.50

KIDS & FAMILY you can. See page 27.

Royal Theatre Carré, Tue 16 Jul-Sun 25 Aug, various times, €10-€49 COMEDY: DAVID QUIRK & FELICITY WARD Part of Comedytrain International Summer Festival, the Aussies take the mic.

David Quirk is attempting to crowd-source funds to get to the Edinburgh Fringe; and you may know Felicity Ward from Spicks and Specks, the music-themed quiz show akin to the UK’s Never Mind the

Highlight comedy

DAVE FULTON & PAUL F TAYLOR Part of Comedytrain International Summer Festival, and the Americans are back. Grizzled Billy Connolly lookalike Dave Fulton (pictured) uses his status as American abroad to poke fun at Europeans, and has a a bounty of dark, silly stories in his arsenal. Paul F Taylor, meanwhile, is like an excitable and noisy kid, pumped up on E numbers. Get past the mania and you'll find gleefull leftfield one-liners combined with astute observational comedy. See page 28 for more on Comedytrain International. Toomler, Wed 24Sat 27 Jul, 20.30, €12.50-€17.50 DANCE: ITMOI (IN THE MIND OF IGOR) The British-Bengali Akram Khan is one of the most successful choreographers of his generation. The Igor in this performance’s title refers to Igor Stravinsky. Khan delves into the world of the famous Russian (ballet) composer and attempts to find out how Stravinsky changed classical music.

The music is inspired by The Rite of Spring, which caused outrage at its Paris premiere.

Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Fri 12 & Sat 13 Jul, 20.30, €12.50-€35 PERFORMANCE: HANS KLOK This Dutch magician may have a haircut that recalls Eastern Bloc glam, but his magic shows are all Las Vegas razzmatazz – which is where he spends much of his time these days.

Big costumes, big bangs and big stunts are abundant in his latest over-the-top show, ‘The New Houdini’. His trademark rapid-fire delivery of magic should ensure language is not a problem. He sold out this, his favourite theatre, for a fiveweek run in the past, and we expect a repeat performance this time, so catch him while

Buzzcocks. See page 28.

Toomler, Wed 17-Sat 20 Jul, 20.30, €12.50-€17.50 DANCE: USUALLY BEAUTY FAILS Frédérick Gravel’s Usually Beauty Fails unfolds in the form of a pop concert with three live musicians and six dancers. We follow them through the evening, from song to song, and from dance scene to dance scene. Part of Julidans. See page 24.

Stadsschouwburg, Sat 23 Jul, 21.00, €10-€25 MULTIDISCIPLINARY: DE PARADE Whether you’re a die-hard theatre devotee or just along for the ride, this travelling theatre festival has something for everyone. Once on the festival terrain, you’ll find yourself enticed by artists giving outdoor performances in full regalia and from there you can buy tickets for a variety of short and full-length performances in open-air and secret locations. Many things are in Dutch, but there’s still lots to keep kids and adults entertained. See page 26.

Martin Luther Kingpark, Fri 9-Sun 25 Aug

THEATRE: THE SEAGULL The Seagull is Chekhov’s most well-known and best-loved play, with the work exhibiting all of the qualities that helped to cement the Russian playwright in the hearts and minds of theatre-goers around the world. This summer reprisal by the acclaimed Toneelgroep Amsterdam is performed in Dutch but with English surtitles during each performance. See page 27.

Stadsschouwburg, Wed 14-Fri 23 Aug, 20.00, €20-€32.50 THEATRE: LONG DAY’S JOURNEY INTO NIGHT Eugene O’Neill has been described by acclaimed Dutch director Ivo van Hove as ‘America’s Shakespeare’, so as Toneelgroep Amsterdam turns its attention to O’Neill’s masterwork, audiences can rely on a top-notch interpretation.

Performances are in Dutch but on this date it will be performed with English surtitles.

Stadsschouwburg, Thur 29 Aug, 20.30, €10-€32.50 PERFORMANCE: UITMARKT As well as being a huge outdoor festival of culture, taking over large parts of the city, the annual Uitmarkt is also has a designated theatre programme. Many of the city’s theatres take part and for only a very small fee, you can get a first glimpse at some of the major performances set to open over the coming year.

See page 25.

Various locations, Fri 30 Aug-Sun 1 Sep ADDRESSES Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 020 530 5301 www.theaterbellevue.nl Bijlmer Parktheater Anton de Komplein 240 020 311 3933 www.bijlmerparktheater.nl Boom Chicago Rozentheater, Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl Het Muziektheater Amstel 3 020 625 5455 www.het-muziektheater.nl/ Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234a 020 531 8181 www.melkweg.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 020 626 4521 www.paradiso.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 10 0900 671 8345 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115 0900 2525 255 www.carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 020 670 7400 www.toomler.nl

ATTRACTIONS AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows, seven actors and one terrifying experience. The tour takes 80 minutes. Are YOU brave enough?

Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. nl. Open daily 11.00-17.00; €21, ages 5-17 €12.50 AMSTERDAMSE BOS (AMSTERDAM FOREST) Amsterdam’s largest park and recreational area is home to a goat farm (with a petting zoo), a Pancake House, a ‘Fun Forest’ climbing park, a vintage tram, a botanical garden and a rowing lake. Bicycle, canoe, kayak and pedal boat rental are available. www.amsterdamsebos.nl ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including Anne’s diary – all serve to illustrate the events which occurred here. Suitable for children over ten.

Prinsengracht 267, www.anne frank.org. Open Mon-Fri, Sun 09.00-19.00, Sat 09.00-21.00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Artis celebrates its 175th birthday this year. Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes galloping amongst the zebras, springboks, oryx and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants.

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www.artis.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00; €18.95, ages 3-9 €15.50 BAD BUITEN Swim with a view in this 18 x 5m heated boat-pool moored along the Amstel River. There is also a bar and shaded terrace to enjoy food and drinks.

A small fee is charged to use the pool and it is only open on warmer days (over 20ºC).

The bar and terrace are open regardless of the weather.

Korte Ouderkerkerdijk 7, www.badbuiten.nl. Pool open weather permitting 11.00-23.00; bar/terrace 15.00-21.00 BLIJBURG Feel the sand between your toes without leaving the comfort of the city at this trendy, family-friendly urban beach on IJburg. Their restaurant serves up organic, fresh food on long wooden tables, there are live bands on Sunday afternoons and DJs spin into the late hours on the weekends.

Muider Avenue 1001, www.blijburg.nl. Open Wed-Thur 11.00-01.00, Fri 11.00-03.00, Sat 10.0003.00, Sun 10.00-01.00. Note: open 11.00-01.00 Mon-Tue if the weather is good BOVENNEMO During the summer months, NEMO museum’s roof transforms into an urban beach, decked out with sand pits, lounge chairs, a giant chess set and a ‘Splashing Water Wonder’ attraction.

Sit back and enjoy drinks, lunch, ice-cream and a breathtaking view of the city.

Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl.

Open daily Jun-Sep 10.0019.00; free HORTUS BOTANICUS At 375, Hortus Botanicus is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. This refuge from the bustle of the city features a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four bee hives, temporary exhibitions and a café. Ask about the children’s programme which includes a special biodiversity catalogue.

Plantage Middenlaan 2a, www.hortusbotanicus.nl.

Open daily 10.00-19.00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50 KINDERKOOKKAFE (KIDS COOK CAFE) The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located near the Vondelpark. Here children (ages five to 12) do absolutely everything to help run the restaurant, including cooking, serving, bar-tending, tidying up and running the cash register.

Parents can sit back and relax.

Vondelpark 6b, www.kinder kookkafe.nl. Open daily 10.0017.00; various prices KLANKSPEELTUIN (SOUND GARDEN) The Klankspeeltuin is unlike any other playground.

Children between the ages of seven and 12 learn how to compose their very own music using all sorts of sound installations and computers during this interactive workshop.

Parents/caretakers are not present during the workshop, but get to hear the compositions at the end.

Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1, www.muziek gebouw.nl. Wed & Sun, 15.00-16.30; €8.50 MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM Step into the amazing world of Madame Tussauds and rub shoulders with the rich and famous, as well as figures from history. The collection of wax figures include the gorgeous Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein. Pose for photos with the likes of David Beckham, Justin Bieber and Beyoncé, as well as Dutch celebs.

Dam 20, www.madame tussauds.nl. Open daily 10.0018.30; €22, ages 5-15 €17

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jul & aug 2013

FOCUS

Highlight kids

EVENTS SUNDAY MARKET The Sunday Market is a great day out for the whole family.

Artists, designers and craftspeople flog their wares and delicious food and drink is on offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. There’s always some form of entertainment or crafty workshop on and plenty of kids’ clothing and toy stalls to browse through.

Various locations, www.sundaymarket.nl.

Various dates

FESTIVAL FUN Amsterdam’s cultural agenda is packed with festivals this summer and many make for a fun-filled family day out.

Our top picks include the Landjuweel Festival, held in the artist’s community of Ruigoord, and travelling theatre festival De Parade, which runs a whole programme every afternoon just for kids. Magneet Festival is great for kids – and for those who know you can still play no matter your age, while Uitmarkt has multiple stages showcasing the best of the upcoming cultural season and a special ‘Junior Uitmarkt’. Checks Festivals & events, page 58, for details.

Thur by appointment only; Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 10.0017.00; €8, children €10 PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s canals make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages. Choose from a number of cruises every week and, for a set price, everyone can eat as many pancakes as they like with a wide variety of tasty toppings.

Ms van Riemsdijkweg t/o 38, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl.

Various times and prices SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) Het Scheepvaartmuseum has a variety of exhibitions just for kids. Sal & Lori and the Circus at Sea is an underwater fairy tale for the youngest visitors, while older children will enjoy The Tale of the Whale or multimedia adventure See You in the Golden Age. Moored just outside, the Dutch East India Company ship Amsterdam is a hit with visitors of all ages.

Kattenburgerplein 1, www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl.

Open daily 09.00-17.00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50

TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR Tropenmuseum Junior was created especially for children from ages six to 13 and is focused on non-Western cultures. The interactive exhibits introduce children to new cultures in a playful way that sparks their curiosity. In 2012, the Tropenmuseum Junior received the Children’s Museum Award, recognising it as one of the best children’s museums in the world. It doesn’t take long to realise why.

Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tro penmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00-17.00; various prices

ARTIS, EDWIN BUTTER

ONDEKHOEK SCIENCE CENTER WOESTE WESTEN (DISCOVERY CORNER) NEMO PLAYGROUND Capture the imagination at A truly hands-on science At the Woeste Westen this truly unique science museum, NEMO introduces playground, kids can dig, centre. Kids can choose from young and old to the world of climb, play in the sand, wade more than 30 experiments science and technology. Five through the streams and check including how to develop floors are filled with exhibiout the frogs and bugs that photos in a darkroom, make tions, theatre performances, call the park home. Most days crisps from a potato, construct films, workshops and demona supervisor is present, meana sailing boat and make strations in Dutch and English, ing kids can play freely while scented soap. The entry fee which kids can get involved parents kick back with a drink covers the entire day and you with. Smell, hear, feel and see on the terrace. The playground can take home whatever you how the world works. Everyis always open, even when the create. Suitable for children thing is interactive. supervisor is not there. aged four to 14 .

Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.

Westerpark, playground Burgemeester Röellstraat 145, nl. Open daily 10.00-17.00; supervisor is present Mon & www.ontdekhoek.nl. Tue & €13.50 Tue 12.00-18.00; Wed-Sun 11.00-18.00

DISNEY IN CONCERT The magical world of Disney is brought to life in this family concert. Various musical talents accompanied by the Metropole Orchestra will enchant with music and songs from such favourites as The Lion King, The Little Mermaid, Aladdin and Beauty and the Beast. Come with your family and get every fourth ticket free.

Concertgebouw, www.concertgebouw.nl.

Sat 17 Aug, 14.15 & 19.30; Sun 18 Aug 14.15; €24-€42 KERMIS (FAIRGROUND) Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed good fun at any age.

Oosterpark, www.iamsterdam. com. Sat 17-Sun 25 Aug, various times & prices

THE INVENTION FACTORY Science Center NEMO’s TUNFUN summer exhibition introduces TunFun is an indoor paradise a range of the most importfor children under 12. Under ant, funniest, most useless adult supervision, kids can and downright unsuccessful enjoy hours of active, creative inventions, including a plant and adventurous fun in a huge pot that waters its plants and 4000m2 indoor playground. an appliance that helps with There’s something for every painting the house as well as age and interest: from soft chopping vegetables. Children slides and mini ball pools are also invited to design, build for babies and infants, trampo- and test their own inventions lines and jungle gyms for the to gain their very own invenolder kids, and crafting and tion diploma. painting for the future Science Center NEMO, Van Goghs.

Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.

Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun. nl. Open daily 10.00-17.00; nl. Open daily 10.00-18.00; €13.50. Exhibition runs adults free, ages 1-12 €8.50 until 1 Sep

175 YEARS OF ARTIS SUMMER EVENINGS AT ARTIS ROYAL ZOO

I

n 2013, Artis Royal Zoo is 175 years old. Back in 1838 construction began on a city park with resident animals. Ever since, Artis has been a place for the whole family to enjoy. This is especially true during the Zoomeravonden, the Artis Summer Evenings.

Every Saturday evening throughout June, July and August, Artis stays open until the sun goes down and there will be plenty to see and do.

Famous artists will be performing in the bandstand amongst the summer flowers, or you can listen to students from the Amsterdam Conservatorium performing all around the gardens. Learn about space and get your own ‘space passport’, or get your face painted to look like your favourite animal.

And of course, there will be plenty of space for picnics on the lawn with prosecco, lemonade, cheese and olives. After the music, join the keepers for a special ZOOmeravonden Twilight Tour, at which our guide will explain – very quietly – what some of the animals do at night. A new feature are the ZOOmeravonden Lectures: expert zookeepers talk about their work, their love for the zoo and the animals who live here.

ANNIVERSARY EVENTS GAY ARTIS Homosexual behaviour occurs with at least 1,500 species of birds and mamals. During Amsterdam Gay Pride, Sunday 28 June, a guided tour by an Artis biologist will explain all.

Departs Ape Rock 13.00

FLOWERS IN ARTIS For the whole of the year, Artis will be ablaze with the most colourful and fragrant Dutch flowers, 176,875 of them in total, as well as 36,000 plants and two special wishing trees ANNIVERSARY TOUR Join the free tour and discover the history of the zoo.

Every Saturday & Sunday, departs Ape Rock 11.00

PETTING ZOO Get up close and personal with small animals including rabbits, guinea pigs and stick insects.

Every Sunday, Classroom Stolp, 13.30-14.15 & 14.45-15.30

LEARN ABOUT THE ANIMALS Every day from 11:00 onwards and at half-hour intervals, zookeeprs talk about their favourite animals in their own quarters. Look for the daily programme in the park or at artis.nl Artis Royal Zoo, Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 www.artis.nl

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PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS A DAY AT THE PARK PLUK DE NACHT experimental art, workshops and you’ve got the recipe for this a programme for the kids. dance music festival, returning Booming house and melodious Featuring genres ranging from Ruigoord, www.ruigoord.nl. for its second edition this year. techno are the order of the day at absurd rom-coms to hauntingly COMEDYTRAIN INTERNAWed 24-Sun 28 Jul, various Het Twiske, www.facebook.com/ this annual outdoor festival. muffled horror flicks, this outTIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL times & prices wavefestivalamsterdam. Sat Amsterdamse Bos, door film festival is a breath of The world famous Comedytrain Aug 17, 13.00, €21.50 www.adayatthepark.nl. al-fresco air. See page 30.

EDELWISE FESTIVAL steams into town for five weeks Sat 13 Jul, 12.00, €49 Het Stenen Hoofd, LUMINOSITY BEACH of sensational international comAfter more than 20 explosive www.plukdenacht.nl. 7-17 Aug, FESTIVAL KWAKU FESTIVAL edy performances. See page 28. editions at Het Sieraad, the times & prices tbc Toomler, www.comedytrain.nl.

A Caribbean experience without The Kwaku Festival (previously successful club night heads outWORLD CINEMA Until Sat 27 Jul, 20.30, doors for its very own festival. leaving the city. Major names the Kwakoe Festival) returns for AMSTERDAM various prices Expect a refreshing mix of DJs, hit the decks alongside up-andfour consecutive weekends of bands, performers, delicious coming talent to spin the best multicultural fun.

Celebrating the many exceptionROBECO SUMMER NIGHTS food and drinks, table tennis, pure trance tunes.

Bijlmerpark, www.kwakufes al films made in Latin America, An integral part of the city’s dressing up, karaoke and plenty Blijburg, www.luminositytival.nl. Sat 13 Jul-Sun 4 Aug Asia and Africa, this festival summer cultural calendar, this of festival madness. events.nl. Sat 17 & Sun 18 Aug, (weekends), 12.00, €2.50 screens more than 40 films (intwo-month series never fails to 12.00, €37 door and outdoor). See page 30. draw in the biggest names from Various locations, HARTJESDAGEN the classical, pop, jazz and world www.worldcinemaamsterdam. music scenes. See page 28.

Amsterdam’s Zeedijk area takes nl. Wed 7-Sun 18 Aug, various Concertgebouw, www.concert a jaunty gallop through its meditimes & prices gebouw.nl. Until Sat 31 Aug, eval past for the ‘Days of Hearts’.

DE PARADE various times & prices Originally a medieval national holiday, the tradition has today With a slew of live music perJULIDANS developed a carnival personality formances, activities, culinary Committed, daring and cutcomplete with cross-dressers, delights and a truly unique ting-edge, Julidans offers two atmosphere, this theatre festival live music, shows and the tradiweeks of groundbreaking dance tional High Heels Race. At press guarantees a memorable day. performances. See page 24. time, funding was unconfirmed, See page 26.

Various locations, but organisers were hopeful it Martin Luther Kingpark, www.julidans.nl. Tue 2-Sat 13 would go ahead. www.deparade.nl. Fri 9-Sun 25 Jul, various times & prices Zeedijk, www.stichtinghartjes Aug, various times & prices dagen.nl. Sat 17 & Sun 18 Aug, AMSTERDAM ROOTS LOVELAND various times, free HENK OP DE HELLING FESTIVAL With an international line-up Stichting Henk invites revellers to break conventions at the SUMMER DANCE FOREVER This annual celebration of world never to be sniffed at, Loveland last ever edition of this genre-blending, techno-heavy festiand roots music brings a wide is traditionally one of the biggest This festival returns to firmly fix val exploring the boundaries of electro, classical tunes, exvariety of international stars to the spotlights on urban dance Dutch electro fests. perimental funk and even opera. With a rare appearance by Amsterdam, closing with a large for a slamming week of perforSloterpark, www.loveland.nl. music festival in the Oosterpark. mances, parties, dance battles Sat 10 Aug, 11.00, €49/€54 Moritz von Oswald (Maurizio, the M-series), it’s already hard See page 14. and workshops. to beat the line-up. Bonus DJs at this techno-dominated APPELSAP Various locations, www.amster Various locations, gathering are the masked Redshape, Mike Denhert, Isolee damroots.nl. Thur 4-Sun 7 Jul, Spend a day in the Oosterpark’s www.summerdanceforever.com. (live), John Heckle (live) Awanto3 (aka Steven de Peven) and various times & prices Thur 22-Thur 29 Aug, various fresh air with a refreshing drink many more. NDSM-werf, www.stichtinghenk.nl. Sat 20 Jul, times & prices or two and a host of fresh hip 12.00, €32/€34 OVER HET IJ hop and electro acts.

MAGNEET FESTIVAL A summery blend of theatre, DJs Oosterpark, www.appelsap.net.

HORTUS FESTIVAL and fabulous food. From 9 to 14 Rembrandtpark, Magneet encourages visitors to Sat 10 Aug, 12.00, €15/€29 July, head to the Noorderlicht www.edelwisefestival.nl. get involved by submitting their Providing a beautiful way to BUITENSPELEN Café where tunes will be played Sat 27 Jul, 12.00, €37.50 own ideas and, naturally, particspend a balmy and cultured deep into the night at the After ipating in the event. This results summer evening, the Hortus Event organisers Apenkooi, WELCOME TO THE FUTURE Het IJ after-parties. See page 16. Festival brings classical music to in a huge range of music, theSjonnie & Anita and MatjesAmsterdam Noord, www. the botanical gardens of Amster- What started as an indoor event disco organise what promises to atre, experimental architecture overhetij.nl. Thur 4-Sun 14 Jul, dam, Haren, Leiden and Utrecht in Paradiso 20 years ago has and art. See page 12. be one of the biggest costume various times & prices grown into a full-blown annual Oostpunt, www.magneetfestival. every year. See page 12. events of the summer. house and techno festival, held nl. Fri 23 Aug-Sun 15 Sep (on Hortus Botanicus, www.hortus Sportpark Riekerhaven, PITCH FESTIVAL Fri, Sat & Sun), 15.00, €12.50 festival.nl. Thur 18 Jul-Thur 22 in the enchanting natural setting www.buitenspelen.com. Sat 10 Geared towards lovers of intelof the Twiske nature reserve.

Aug. 20.00, €21/€25 Aug, 12.00, €30 MYSTERYLAND ligent electro music, this festival Het Twiske, www.welcometo ELECTRONIC FAMILY GROEN ALS GRASS sprawls over all areas of the thefuture.nl. Sat 27 Jul, With fairy-tale surroundings, Westergasfabriek. See page 10. Featuring four stages hosting the 12.00, €44.50 open fields and intimate spaces, ‘Green as Grass’ is an intimate Westergasfabriek, best international trance DJs for music festival (which still offers Mysteryland has built up a repuAMSTERDAM GAY PRIDE www.pitchfestival.nl. Fri 5 & tation as one of the most unique one of the world’s largest outno less than five stages) set in Sat 6 Jul, 14.30, €45 The city is a rainbow of events dance festival locations in the door trance festivals. enchanting surroundings. in gay and straight venues alike. world. See page 10.

See page 10.

Gaasperplas, www.facebook.

VIVA BRASIL FESTIVAL See page 15.

Amsterdamse Bos, com/groenalsgrasfestival. Sun 11 Floriade festival grounds, HaarThis three-day festival presents Various locations, lemmermeer. www.mysteryland. www.electronicfamily.nl.

Aug, 13.00, €17.50 a lively selection of musical ofwww.amsterdamgaypride.org. com, Sat 24 Aug, €69.75 Sat 20 Jul, 12.00, €45 STRAF_WERK FESTIVAL ferings from a host of renowned Sat 27 Jul-Sun 4 Aug, various UITMARKT BUITEN WESTEN Brazilian performers. times & prices Straf_Werk takes the leap into Various locations, www.viva The Uitmarkt rings in the start Electronic and house music the world of summer festivals DANCE VALLEY brasil.nl. Fri 5-Sun 7 Jul, of the new cultural season in remains the primary focus of this year, hitting the scene with various times & prices Nearly 20 years since the first the last weekend of August. this multifaceted festival which a thumping event that promises edition turned the hills of The festival features more than unites DJs, musicians, artists, lashings of progressive house.

GAY & LESBIAN SUMMER Spaarnwoude into the beating 450 performances by some creative spirits and culture lovSportpark Riekerhaven, FESTIVAL heart of the international dance 2,000 artists: from classical to ers. See page 10. www.strafwerkfestival.nl.

Annual LGBT film fest, closing Westerpark, www.buitenwesten. community, the festival returns kid-friendly, hip hop to dance Sun 11 Aug, 12.00, €29.50 with a film marathon, giving you with a jam-packed edition. and theatre to jazz. See page 25. am. Sat 20 Jul, 12.00, €39.50 GRACHTENFESTIVAL a second chance to catch every Velsen Valley, Spaarnwoude, Various locations, www.amMILKSHAKE FESTIVAL film featured this year. www.dancevalley.com. Sat 3 sterdamsuitburo.nl/uitmarkt.

Amsterdam’s historic centre Rialto Cinema, www.rialtofilm. Not your average festival, this is Aug, 12.00, €55/€60 hosts this ten-day festival of clas- Fri 30 Aug-Sun 1 Sep, various nl. Fri 5 Jul-Sun 4 Aug, various times, free an event with a clear message: sical music at numerous unique SOUTH EAST JAZZ FESTIVAL times & prices it’s about respect. See page 10. locations. See page 22.

VOLTT LOVES SUMMER The renovated main building Westerpark, Various locations, www.gracht AMSTERDAM FASHION at the Amsterdam ArenA plays enfestival.nl. Fri 16-Sun 25 Aug, This annual one-day techno www.milkshakefestival.nl.

WEEK host to this spectacular jazz festival always attracts an imSun 21 Jul, 12.00, €39.50 various times & prices Featuring an industry probonanza. Five venues within the pressive domestic and internaLANDJUWEEL FESTIVAL WAVE FESTIVAL gramme and a ‘DOWNTOWN’ building will be graced by major tional DJ line-up. There’s also an public programme. See page 29. names from the jazz world inenormous chill-out area, plenty Drawing on the late medieval Take sun, lush green fields, Various locations, cluding Toots Thielemans. of delicious food and cocktails tradition of a Flemish poets’ fesbeautiful trees and a cool lake www.amsterdamfashionweek. tival, Landjuweel has grown into Amsterdam ArenA, and a vintage market. stretching as far as the eye can com. Sat 6-Tue 16 Jul, various www.southeastjazz.nl. Sat 3 NDSM-werf, www.voltt.com. Sat a five-day cultural happening see. Add two areas filled with times & prices Aug, 18.00, €35 31 Aug, 11.00, €39 featuring theatre, poetry, music, superb house and techno and

FESTIVALS

STICHTING HENK

Highlight festivals

59

jul & aug 2013

GAY & LESBIAN HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS wear party. The dress code is Beachclub Vroeger, Bloemendaal strictly enforced: briefs and aan Zee, www.flirtation.nl. Sat 6 Big willy gay sex party. Dress jocks are welcome; board shorts, Jul, 14.00-midnight, €17.50 code: naked or underwear. Drop TUESDAY BLUESDAY and ‘street wear’ prohibited. ’em and if you measure up, SENSATION Club night with a special focus Church, every Fri & every Sun + entrance is free.

Sat 6 Jul; & Sat 3 Aug, various Commercial trance from topon blues and soul.

Club Fuxxx, Sun 21 Jul; & 18 times, €10 name DJs at this gay-friendly Same Place, every Tue, 21.00 Aug, 15.00, €8 clubbing extravaganza with the IT’S SHOWTIME FOLKS NAKED SWIMMING GAY PRIDE theme ‘into the wild’.

It’s show time almost every Amsterdam ArenA, Sat 6 Jul, The Marnixbad pools contain Loud, proud and fabulously night at Lellebel, the most out22.00, €79.75 much less chlorine than most – colourful: Amsterdam’s Gay which is good news since you’ll rageous drag show bar in town, Pride is not to be missed. be exposing your sensitive bits. but Saturdays are especially fab- MSMA MONTHLY MEET-UP See page 15. ulous, with the bar’s most glamThat’s Motor Sport Club AmMarnixbad, every Tue, 21.00, Various locations, www. orous stars coming together for sterdam, one of the oldest fetish amsterdamgaypride.nl, 1-4 Aug various prices a supernova of cabaret fun. and motorcycle clubs in Europe.

DRINK & COCKTAIL DRAG QUEEN OLYMPICS Lellebel, every Sat, 20.00 De Schreierstoren, Sun 7 Jul; & EVENING 4 Aug, 22.00 The world’s premier sporting DOUBLE HAPPY HOUR Get a taste of Sugi’s Mojito, event for drag queens and kings THE WAREHOUSE Because why wouldn’t you want May’s Mango or Electra’s Sunsees the crème de la crème of to start the working week with Check out this spanking new rise at drag bar Lellebel… And the drag athletic world battling a hang-over? Taboo doesn’t addition to Warmoesstraat on yes, those are cocktails. it out for Olympic Gold. This serve boring old beer or wimpy opening night.

Lellebel, every Thur, 20.00 year’s events include traditional wines, either, so line up for barThe WareHouse, 11 Jul, 23.00- sports such as the 100m Stiletto BLUE gain-priced cocktails and shots.

04.00, €TBA Sprint, the Handbag Toss and Taboo, every Sun, 18.00 Kooky clubbing with Amsterthe Hula Hoop. Hostess with F*NG POP QUEERS dam’s drag supremo Jennifer the mostess is the fabulous JenSUNDAY CAROUSEL The tag line – ‘It’s Fun! It’s Pop! Hopelezz. Drinks are just €2.50. nifer Hopelezz, whose impresBe transported to exotic climes And it’s sooo Gay!’ – says it all.

Church, every Thur, 22.00 sive posterior rivals that of her with Arabian and Turkish music Jimmy Woo, Sat 13 Jul; & 10 namesake. Beauticians are on THE PONY CLUB courtesy of old and new divas.

Aug, 23.00, free hand for cosmetic emergencies, Lellebel, every Sun, 22.00 Quit horsing around and get and heels are mandatory, natch.

FURBALL serious about starting the weekHomomonument, www.drag GAY MOVIE NIGHT Amsterdam’s hairy men party. end on Thursday. Three floors queenolympics.nl. Fri 2 Aug, Enjoy a screening of the gems Church, Sat 20 Jul, 22.00, €10 of DJs spin an energetic mix of 19.00, free, of gay cinema. pop, disco, house and electro.

MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL BEAR NECESSITY Pathé de Munt, Wed 3 Jul; & Club NYX, every Thur, 23.00, Wed 7 Aug, 21.00, €10 Gay-friendly music fest, with €5, free before midnight Popular party for bears, hairy a focus on tolerance. hunks, beefy boys, cubs, otters FLIRTATION ON THE BEACH ZONDERBROEK See page 10. and their lovers known for its Ladies-only beach party, celeWesterpark, Sun 21 Jul, Drop your trousers and lose relaxed atmosphere. brating its tenth anniversary.

12.00-23.00, €39.50 your pretences at this underOdeon, Sat 3 Aug, 23.00, €15

GAY & LESBIAN

RAPIDO FUN HOUSE Epic gay-friendly dance fest.

WesterUnie, Sat 3 Aug, 15.00, €20-€55 ADDRESSES Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Club Fuxxx Warmoesstraat 96 www.clubfuxxx.com Jimmy Woo Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 www.jimmywoo.com Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4 www.lellebel.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein1 www.hetmarnix.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 http://clubnyx.nl Odeon Singel 460 www.odeonamsterdam.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Same Place Nassaukade 120 www.sameplace.nl De Schreierstoren Prins Hendrikkade 94/95 www.schreierstoren.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl WesterUnie Klonneplein 4-6 http://westerunie.nl

japanese inspired cuisine wagamama amsterdam amstelstraat 8 (rembrandtplein) max euweplein 10 (leidse plein) zuidplein 12 (wtc | station zuid) opening hours 12.00 - 22.00

The Museums Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis, Cromhouthuizen and Willet-Holthuysen present Canal Stories: a tour of Amsterdam in Dutch, English, German, French, Italian and Spanish, packed with information about the amazing people who made their home in these magnificent historical houses.

Each residence highlights a different period of history, providing a fascinating insight into life in Amsterdam down the centuries with an array of personal stories.

The guide is available at participating museums for just € 2,www.amsterdammuseum.com/canalstories

wagamama.nl

60

PART IV THE A-LIST

SPORTS EVENTS AMSTERDAM HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Dating back to the 1960s, this ‘drinking club with a running problem’ now has more than 1,250 chapters worldwide.

Visitors and newcomers are welcome, so head along every Sunday and walk, jog or run the trail with fellow ‘hashers’, singing and drinking along the way.

Various locations, www.harrier.nl, check site for latest dates

FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, an institution in Amsterdam.

Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own.

Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate.com.

Every Fri, 20.30, free FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos Athletics Association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters.

Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run.

Olympic Stadium, www.phanos.org. Fri 12 Jul; & 9 Aug, 19.30, free

SJAAK SWART – 75 YEARS The world of football celebrates the 75th birthday of Dutch football legend Sjaak Swaart with a special match in Amsterdam’s Olympic Stadium. A host of Ajax greats DUTCH ATHLETICS from the past 40 years – CHAMPIONSHIPS including Swaart, still playing at 75! – will put on their boots The very best Dutch track and once again, and special guests field stars return to Amsterinclude Johan Cruijff, Frank dam’s Olympic Stadium for the and Ronald de Boer, Dennis national championships. All Bergkamp and Jari Litmaregular track and field events nen, with the ‘legend’ teams are included, with this year’s coached by Guus Hiddink and event also expanded to include Ronald Koeman.

10,000-metre running and a Olympic Stadium, 20km walking race. www.olympischstadion.nl.

Olympic Stadium, Wed 3 Jul, 17.00, €12.50 www.olympischstadion.nl.

this team from the south of don’t manage to get tickets to the country. Despite failing to the ArenA, join the locals in an achieve notable league Amsterdam bar.

AJAX OPEN DAY results in recent years, Roda Amsterdam ArenA, Amsterdam A celebration of the imminent JC Kerkrade has built up a Boulevard, www.ajax.nl. Sun arrival of the new football solid reputation as something 18 Aug, time & prices tbc season, last year this free event of a giant killer. It’s certainly FORMULA FUTURE attracted tens of thousands of all to play for and Ajax will POWERBOAT red-and-white supporters for need to put in a decent RACING a full programme of events performance to come away – naturally including an apwith a win in their first match Experience the speed and powpearance by the team for the of the season. er of single-seat powerboats as upcoming season.

Amsterdam ArenA, Amsterdam they demonstrate their aweAmsterdam ArenA, Amsterdam Boulevard, www.ajax.nl. Fri 2 some acceleration and cornerBoulevard, www.ajax.nl. Thur Aug, time & prices tbc ing abilities racing around this 25 Jul, time tbc, free rowing lake in Amstelveen, to MONSTER TRUCK the south of Amsterdam.

JOHAN CRUIJFF STUNT SHOW Bosbaan, Amstelveen, SHIELD Just a few stops on the train www.powerboatholland.nl.

This annual footballing duel from Amsterdam, Zaandam’s Sun 25 Aug, time tbc, free sees the winner of the national attractions include a weekly FLAME GAMES football league battle it out market, the world famous AMSTERDAM against the winner of the Zaanse Schans with its specKNVB (Royal Dutch Football tacular windmills and now, a Blending top-flight athletics, Association) Cup. This year, mind-blowing monster truck entertainment and perforAjax’s red-and-white warriors stunt show. The Stunt Movie mances by Amsterdam’s clash with AZ Alkmaar in a Production team will be on leading DJs, this new annual repeat of the match that saw hand with an action-packed event sets Amsterdam firmly the Amsterdam club knocked show featuring live stunts on the map as an athletic city out of the KNVB Cup at the often only seen in films. with all the trimmings. In the semi-final stage.

Burcht, Zaandam, run-up to the European Amsterdam ArenA, www.stuntmovieproduction.

Athletics Championships in www.amsterdamarena.nl, com. Sat 10 Aug, various 2016, the Flame Games allow www.knvb.nl. prices, time tbc future stars to compete in Sat 27 Jul, 20.00, price tbc major competition conditions AJAX V FEYENOORD while treating spectators to all AJAX V RODA The intense rivalry between the fun of the athletics fair.

JC KERKRADE Ajax and the club from Olympic Stadium, After winning the league Rotterdam means that firewww.flame gamesamsterdam. last season, Ajax kicks off its works are always guaranteed com. Sat 31 Aug, times & 2013/2014 campaign against when they meet. And if you prices tbc Sat 22 & Sun 23 Jul, various times & prices

Please DO touch!

Oosterdok 2, Amsterdam www.e-NEMO.nl

IJmuiden aan Zee a rugged port town with an adventurous beach Ports, locks & beaches

Activities and historical sights

Gawp at the huge ships, find out

This year is the 125th anniversary of

how the four locks work and don’t

Forteiland IJmuiden (Fortress Island), a

forget to eat a fresh herring or fried

part of UNESCO World Heritage, which

fish at one of the fish restaurants in

can be visited on the first Sunday of each

the harbour area. The Harbourfestival

month (Sunday 7th July). You can book a

IJmuiden is a lively nautic and

boat trip and guided tour on the island

musical festival, which takes place

or you can make an extensive harbour

on the last weekend of August:

boat tour available daily:

www.havenfestivalijmuiden.nl

www.ijmuidenserondvaart.nl

With its wide coastline, IJmuiden aan

Perfect for cycling or walking: the dunes of

Zee is the perfect destination for a

Zuid-Kennemerland National Park and the

whole host of coastal activities for

Recreational area Spaarnwoude! You can

everyone from families to wind and

also rent a pedelec (e-bike) in IJmuiden

water sports enthusiasts.

see: www.dutchpedelectours.com

For more information: www.ijmuidenaanzee.nl

photo Roel Prikken

How to reach IJmuiden • 27 km by car to the northeast of Amsterdam.

• By Fast Flying Ferry from the Central Station in Amsterdam in half an hour to the Pontplein.

• Bus 82 takes you from the Marnixstraat in Amsterdam directly to the beach.

Zaandam and the Russian connection

Other ways to experience the Russian heritage

2013 is the Netherlands-Russia year with lots of activities which will take place in Zaandam.

Exposition: Eight Fabulous Days

The Tsar Peter House It was at Zaandam that Tsar Peter the Great of Russia spent 8 days in 1697. The Tsar Peter House has survived nearly four centuries because of its famous lodger, who stayed there with his friend and shipbuilder Gerrit Kist. A new museum has been built around the old wooden house.

Tsar Peter House, Krimp 23, 1506 AA Zaandam For more information: www.zaansmuseum.nl

Eight Fabulous Days is an exposition about the legendary visit of Tsar Peter the Great of Russia to Zaandam in 1697. Fascinating stories and unique objects from the collection of the Zaans Museum transport the exhibit visitor to the world of Peter the Great.

Zaans Museum, Schansend 7, 1509 AW Zaandam For more information: www.zaansmuseum.nl

Cycling tour: in the footsteps of Tsar Peter Holland Route has created the Tsar Peter Route for this theme year. The Cycling tour covers 34 kilometers (one way), it starts at Amsterdam Central Station and it ends at the Tsar Peter House in Zaandam. The App is downloadable for free, for more information www.hollandroute.nl

2013 Zaans Russia year

The Zaanse Schans can be reached: =15 minutes from Amsterdam = from Amsterdam Central Station to Station Koog Zaandijk = 391 from Amsterdam Central Station directly to the Zaanse Schans and the Zaans Museum

www.zaanstreek.nl

62

beyond amsterdam

THE A-LIST

BEYOND

A’DAM

‘JAZZ WASHES AWAY THE DUST OF EVERYDAY LIFE.’

FIND OUT WHAT ART ‘DADDY OF BEBOP’ BLAKEY MEANT, AT ROTTERDAM’S NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL.

ALL THAT JAZZ For a few days each July, Holland’s second city becomes the second jazz capital of the world. The internationally renowned North Sea Jazz festival, held in Rotterdam’s cavernous Ahoy complex, boasts big-name line-ups (of around 180 acts) and draws a staggering 23,000 visitors per day – making it the world’s largest indoor jazz festival. Over the years, legends including Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Sarah Vaughan, Tony Bennett, Wynton Marsalis and Al Jarreau have played North Sea Jazz; headliners this year include Santana, Sting, John Legend (pictured) and Dionne Warwick.

In the lead-up to the festival, concerts are performed on various pop-up stages around the city, giving visitors the opportunity to enjoy Rotterdam’s unique architectural aesthetic (you won’t find the classic Dutch medieval centre here; it was swept away with the rubble after the war). Jazz hands at the ready...

12-14 July, Ahoy Rotterdam Ahoyweg 10, Rotterdam www.northseajazz.com

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Rotterdam take around 35 min.

WASSILY KANDINSKY, PAINTING WITH WHITE FORM, 1913, OIL ON CANVAS, GEMEENTEMUSEUM DEN HAAG

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

DISCOVER THE MODERN The ‘Municipal Museum’ in Den Haag recently rethought its curatorial approach, rejecting a linear historical presentation in favour of thematic connections. The results reflect the ebb and flow of political, social and economic trends, presenting old works in a new light, revealing influences and dialogues between the works of artists including Claude Monet, Wassily Kandinsky and of course Piet Mondriaan, a large portion of whose oeuvre the museum houses. Taken alongside the temporary exhibition Masters from the Mauritshuis – In the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, visitors can see six centuries of artistic works under one roof – from Vermeer and Rembrandt to Pablo Picasso and Francis Bacon.

Gemeentemuseum Den Haag Stadhouderslaan 41, The Hague www.gemeentemuseum.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Den Haag take around 50min. Trams 11 and 17, and bus 24 stop near the museum, and take approx. 15min.

63

‘DON’T REJECT A SHOE BECAUSE YOU CAN’T RUN IN IT. IT’S OK NOT TO RUN. YOU SEE MORE.’

‘WHAT HAPPENS TO THE HOLE WHEN THE CHEESE IS GONE?’

FROM THE CATALOGUE OF HUNDERTWASSER EXHIBITION, TOKYO GALLERY, 1961

HUNDERTWASSER, JAPAN AND THE AVANTGARDE

SAY CHEESE Or should that be Edam?

The famous round cheeses traditionally produced in this quaint medieval town have been travelling to the most remote corners of the world for centuries now. And cheese is still at the centre of life here – both figuratively and literally: the Kaasmarkt (cheese market), given the royal sanction by William of Orange back in the 16th century, is the town’s focal point. Check it out every Wednesday morning during July and August. www.kaasmarktedam.nl GETTING THERE: From the IJzijde bus stop behind Central Station, buses 312, 314 and 317 take you directly to Edam in around 50min.

Amstelveen’s Cobra Museum sheds new light on Austrian artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who famously substituted asymmetry, undulating swirls and labyrinthine spirals for straight vertical and horizontal lines.

Cobra revisits Hundertwasser’s early, oft-neglected works, inspired by his time in Japan where he studied Zen Buddhism. The exhibition includes works from many private collections and from leading museums, including the Peggy Guggenheim in Venice, some of which have not been publically displayed in 50 years. In total there are 40 works by Hundertwasser on display, as well as pieces by 20 international artists including Dubuffet, Constant and Corneille.

9 August-2 January 2014 Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, bus 170 (direction Uithoorn) or bus 172 (direction Kudelstaart) takes you to Amstelveen bus station in around 40min. The Cobra Museum is just a three-minute walk.

MURIEL NISSE: N°18 BLACK SWAN – MARIE PRUNIER

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CONFIRMS OUR FETISH FOR FASHION; SEE HOW FAR IT GOES AT MOBA 13.

BERTOLT BRECHT WAXES PHILOSOPHICAL ABOUT THE DUTCH STAPLE.

MOBA 13: FETISHISM IN FASHION For the fifth edition of Arnhem’s Fashion Biennale, curator and legendary trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort – one of Time magazine’s 25 most influential people in fashion – has chosen the theme ‘Fetishism in Fashion’.

Designers including Jean Paul Gaultier, Gareth Pugh, Maison Martin Margiela, Moschino and Rick Owens present a series of exhibitions and events that explore the obsessive relationship we have with fashion. From the passion a pair of shoes can evoke to the emotions engendered by a tactile fabric, MOBA 13 promises to expose much more than just the sexual connotation certain items of clothing and accessories can have.

Until 23 July, around Arnhem http://moba.nu

GETTING THERE: from Central Station, trains to Arnhem take around an hour.

64

need to know

CLOSING

NEED TO

KNOW

Transport to tipping, your ABC of navigating Amsterdam.

illustration Qamar van Leeuwen

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET Entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region – day and night – on bus, tram and metro for 24 hours. Included within the region are great tourist attractions including historic Harrlem, industrial heritage highlight Zaanse Schans, North Sea beaches and the bulb region around Flora Holland auction centre – and of course, your journey to and from Schiphol Airport. A ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from Visitor Information Centres, GVB, EBS and Conexxion ticket points.

TAXIS To keep traffic flowing at peak efficiency, there are REGULATED TAXI RANKS across the city – including outside Central Station and on Leidseplein. REGULATED FARES have also been introduced. These are listed below for a regular, fourpassenger taxi.

Maximum start price: €2.83 Maximum price per kilometre: €2.08 Maximum price per minute: €0.34 For more information, see www.taxi.amsterdam.nl

For information and to book excursions, visit one of the Visitor Information Centres in Amsterdam: Tel: +31 (0)20 201 8800 Open Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00 info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com http://twitter.com/Iamsterdam VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE CENTRAL STATION* Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00; Sun 10.00-17.00.

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Schiphol Airport, Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00 VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE LEIDSEPLEIN* Leidseplein 26 Open daily 10.00-17.00 *Last Minute Ticket Shop

CANAL CRUISES There’s nothing like seeing Amsterdam from the water, and canal cruises are among the city’s most popular attractions. There are a host of companies with departure points across town and commentary in a multitude of languages, providing everything from hop-on, hop-off services mooring at all the key attractions to romantic dinner and evening cruises. www.iamsterdam.com

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS In an emergency (police, ambulance, fire) CALL 112 To report theft or other petty crimes, CALL 0900 8844 For non-urgent medical advice CALL 020 427 5011

TIPPING Service is always included in your bill (de rekening). It is, however, customary to tip between 5 AND 10 PER CENT in restaurants, bars and taxis.

65

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

PUBLIC TRANSPORT An extensive network of trams, trains, metro and boats connects Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods. Disposable OV-CHIPKAARTS, which have an inbuilt chip, can be used on all forms of transport and may be purchased or topped up with credit at locations across the city – just don’t forget to check in and check out or your card may be invalidated. TRAMS and BUSES are the most common form of public transport within the centre, while TRAINS and the METRO are efficient for travelling longer distances. Behind Central Station, FERRIES transport passengers across the River IJ to the north of Amsterdam – completely free of charge.

GET THE MOST OUT OF AMSTERDAM! GET A SUBSCRIPTION!ONE YEAR/ 6 ISSUES FOR ONLY €17.95* AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION DANCING & DINING FILM & THEATRE MARCH & APRIL 2013 AMSTER

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BORN IKE TO BIKE AMSTERDAM HAS MORE BIKES THAN PEOPLE, AND ITS LOVE AFFAIR WITH CYCLING IS INSPIRING THE WORLD. WITH SPRING IN THE AIR, THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO EXPLORE THE CITY THAN BY BIKE.

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Go Dutch: Cycle!

NUMBER A MAGIC ERDAM. FOR AMST WILL THE CITY THIS YEAR ING A HOST OF S, BRAT BE CELE MILESTONE S OF SPECIAL 400 YEAR THE AS INCLUDING AS WELL CANALS, ENING OF GEMS REOP D MUSEUM, GRAN THE RIJKS UM, THE SUCH AS GOGH MUSE ELIJK THE VAN SIGNED STED MORE .

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How to subscribe to A-mag Contact subscriptions on +31 (0)20 702 6043 or by email at a-magservice@iamsterdam.com * In the Netherlands. For overseas tariffs, get in touch.

INTERNATIONAL SHORT STAY ACCOMMODATION COFFEESHOPS

IDEAL FOR STUDENTS, TRAINEES & INTERNS

Coffeeshops are permitted to sell UP TO FIVE GRAMS OF CANNABIS TO ANY PATRON OVER THE AGE OF 18. All hard drugs and the sale/purchase of soft drugs on the street are strictly illegal and punishable by law.

Note that smoking regular tobacco in a coffeeshop is illegal.

BIKES Most locals swear by their bikes as the best – and often their only – means of transport. With 400 kilometres of dedicated bicycle paths, it’s not hard to see why. Bike rental companies are located across the city.

Just follow these simple rules to remain safe: STAY IN LANE: use the right-hand bicycle lane FOLLOW THE RULES: adhere to all traffic signs and lights INDICATE: always signal before turning LIGHT AT NIGHT: it is illegal to cycle without lights in the dark WATCH OUT FOR TRAM TRACKS: cross them at a sharp angle LOCK UP: bike theft is prevalent; always chain up to a bike stand DON’T IMITATE THE DUTCH: Amsterdammers are notorious for breaking the rules. Don’t follow their example!

OPENING IN AMSTERDAM AUGUST 15th

BOOK NOW www.thestudenthotel.com

66

CLOSING JEWISH AMSTERDAM

THEN AND NOW

1950S

then & now

A retrospective of local photographer Philip Mechanicus displays historic pictures of the Waterlooplein neighbourhood in their original locations.

NEXT ISSUE

Before the Second World War, Jodenbreestraat was the busiest shopping street in this traditionally Jewish quarter. Soon after the war ended, hundreds of houses were demolished, and blind walls were erected around the exposed lots – partly to keep children from playing in the rubble. The wall pictured here, on Jodenbreestraat facing Mr Visserplein, is now an Albert Heijn supermarket. A major retrospective of photographs of the neighbourhood during the 1950s and ’60s by local shutterbug Philip Mechanicus (1936-2005) is now in display at the nearby Jewish Historical Museum.

For a limited time, these photographs will also be displayed in large-scale in their original locations around the neighbourhood, and guided walking tours or a self-guided route, with mobile website, are available. www.jhm.nl

SEP & OCT 2013

VIEW OF JODENBREESTRAAT FACING MR VISSERPLEIN, PHILIP MECHANICUS/MAI

5-15 September: the Dutch Theatre Festival – and edgier sister Fringe – are in town

COLLAGE/STORYBOARD (BECKETT) 2012 © JOB KOELEWIJN / GALERIE FONS WELTERS

26-29 September: Unseen Photo Fair returns to Westergasfabriek

28 September: join the avant-garde for cultural all-nighter Nuit Blanche 12-25 October: take your fledgling Fellinis to Cinekid kids’ film fest

68

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

on the way out

MAURIZIO BURGAZZI, LUCA MARMORA AND MIRKO PANTEGHINI, FROM MILAN, ITALY ‘The best thing about Amsterdam? The beer, of course! So many different types are served in the bars, there’s one for every taste. We recommend going to Stone’s Café on Warmoesstraat.’

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

GIEDRE KASPERAVICIUTE, 28, FROM LITHUANIA ‘Amsterdam is so cute, I can’t recommend a particular spot. I love all of it, and I think the best thing to do is walk around the entire city.’

EVA CARLA MONEO ESTANY, 18, AND BERTA ALBA MONEO ESTANY, 24, FROM SPAIN ‘Touring the city from a canal boat is the best. It’s impressive to see all these really pretty houses right on the water.’

CHARLOTTE BREALEY AND ANDREW TASKER, 24 AND 27, FROM LONDON ‘The sun was out all weekend so touring the canals in a pedalo was the most fun we had.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic staff photographer Marie-Charlotte Pezé cover illustration Sanna Mander copy editor Megan Roberts contributors Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Qamar van Leeuwen, Toby Main, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag) listings Tamar Bosschaart, Eden Frost, Steven McCarron, Dave Nice, Christiaan de Wit sales 020 702 6100 / sales@iamsterdam.com

HANA SYASWANI, 21, FROM MALAYSIA ‘I love to walk around to discover a city, and the Jordaan is really a wonderful place to do just that, the perfect mix between peace and energy.’

WORLD CINEMA AMSTERDAM 25% DISCOUNT

CONCERTS IN THE PARK 29 JUN, 27 JUL, 14 AUG

DBROA E LI V CAST AL E ROY H T M W FRO E BO U G T R E CONC G ON BI N SCR E E

GRACHTENFESTIVAL CULTURE CLASH 25% DISCOUNT

SUMMER EVENINGS AT ARTIS ROYAL ZOO 25% DISCOUNT

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

Terms of this promotion • valid at www.grachtenfestival.nl/amag • also valid at the Festival Office from august 14th, Kloveniersburgwal 50 Amsterdam • one voucher valid for two persons • Amsterdam Marketing and het Grachtenfestival cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

There may not seem to be many parallels between 1920s dance music and modern dance music, but there are actually more than meet the eye. The Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw takes us on a musical journey through time and is able to bring out these parallels perfectly. From jive to rock ‘n’ roll, and then on to disco and the latest in dance.

25% Discount on Grachtenfestival Culture Clash

Concerts in the Park

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

Terms of this promotion • valid on Saturdays in July and August from 3:00 PM • not valid in combination with other discounts • offer only valid on presentation of this voucher at the cash register of Artis, not via the webshop • Amsterdam Marketing and Artis cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

Artis Royal Zoo will stay open until sunset every Saturday in June, July and August. Famous artists will be performing in the bandstand and there will be plenty of space for picnics with prosecco, cheese and olives. You can keep up to date with the latest programme on www.artis.nl/zoomeravonden.

25% Discount on Summer Evenings at Artis Royal Zoo

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

• Noorderpark 29 June, 8:00 – 10:20 PM, Caro Emerald & Het Metropole Orkest • Erasmuspark 27 July, 8:00 – 10:30 PM, Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club® • Flevopark 14 August, 8:00 – 10:30 PM, a Summer Night at the opera

2013 is a very special year for Amsterdam. Several of the city’s iconic institutions celebrate remarkable milestones. Amsterdam’s most famous concert hall for example, the Royal Concertgebouw, and the world-renowned Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra both celebrate their 125th anniversaries. To celebrate this, a number of big name classical, pop and world music performances will be broadcast live on big screens in public parks around the city.

Enjoy the concerts for free and don’t forget to bring you picnic basket!

25% Discount on your ticket for World Cinema Amsterdam This voucher is valid for the 4th edition of World Cinema Amsterdam, an initiative of independent movie theatre Rialto. World Cinema Amsterdam will present the best world cinema currently has to offer with independently produced films from Latin America, Asia and Africa. The festival takes place from 7 till 18 August at Rialto (Ceintuurbaan 338) and De Balie (Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 10).

Terms of this promotion • one person per voucher • offer only valid on presentation of this voucher at the cash register of World Cinema Amsterdam • please visit worldcinemaamsterdam.nl for addresses, opening hours and to check if the movie has English subtitles • Amsterdam Marketing and World Cinema Amsterdam cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

hop on hop off

canal cruise amsterdam Buy your tickets at canal.nl and receive a

10% discount .

1 ticket 4 lines 19 stops

enjoy unlimited hop on and hop off opportunities create your own sightseeing tour discover the UNESCO world heritage city centre +31 20 217 0501 canal.nl

Classics in the Mix

July-Aug 2013

robecosummernights.nl