AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE
JAN & FEB EU PRESIDENCY EDITION
The card that offers more than you can visit (but you can try)
iamsterdam.com/citycard
AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE
EU PRESIDENCY LETTER FROM THE MAYOR
CONTENTS P.04 YOU ARE HERE
An introduction to the heart of the EU Presidency: the Marineterrein
P.08 MARINETERREIN & SURROUNDINGS
Explore the neighbourhood's best restaurants, bars, cafes, and unique spots
P.12 DUTCH DESIGN
A spotlight on Dutch Design which you can see at the Europe building
P.14 EU IN THE CLASSROOM
Discover how this special project aims to bring the EU closer to the youth
P.20 WHAT'S ON
A treasure trove of top tips: exhibitions, events, festivals, and hotspots during your stay in Amsterdam
It gives me great pleasure to welcome you to Amsterdam. We are honoured that over the next six months, our city is to be the centre for a wealth of meetings in relation to the Netherlands’ presidency of the European Union (EU). The meetings will take place at the Marineterrein. On the site of this former naval base, the gaze has always been directed beyond our borders. This will certainly remain the case over the coming six months, when the EU is the subject of discussion. Amsterdam and Europe have close ties, not only economically but also culturally and historically. Our city thrives on the continent’s commerce, arts and knowledge. At the same time, we strive to offer Europeans a helping hand ourselves, for example in our cooperation with cities such as Paris, Berlin and Athens. We have always looked outwards, and at present our city is a melting pot, home to some 180 different nationalities. In Europe, Amsterdam would like to be known as an accessible, sociallyminded and tolerant city; our aim for the Netherlands’ EU presidency is to contribute to this reputation. Whether you are a civil servant, politician, journalist or guest, I hope that your visit to Amsterdam will be enjoyable and informative, and that this publication serves you well during your stay. May it contribute to Amsterdam’s ambition to offer Europeans a helping hand. Mr. E.E. van der Laan Mayor of Amsterdam
published for the City of Amsterdam by Amsterdam Marketing editor-in-chief & writer Angel Trinidad project manager Sebas van der Sangen designer Zlatka Siljdedic coordinator Bart van Oosterhout
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YOU ARE HERE
The Marineterrein in Amsterdam is the sparkling centre of the Dutch EU Presidency for the first half of 2016. Located close to the central station, it was a former naval dockyard turned into a dynamic social and technological hub. The EU Presidency meetings with ministers and officials from all the member states will take place in this unique, waterside location – a maritime area with a rich history, as well as an innovative, future-thinking soul. HISTORY The historical naval dock on Kattenburg Island has existed for over 350 years. In 1655, during the height of the Dutch Golden Age, the site was a large shipyard. Plenty of ships were built there for the naval protection of the Dutch East India Company’s fleet. One of the few surviving 17th century buildings in the area is the historic archway; hundreds of labourers, carpenters, mast-makers and painters walked underneath here daily to or from their work. A bell hung above the gate signalling the beginning of the workday. This bell can now be found in the Maritime Museum. Meanwhile the Maritime Museum used to be a central storage and warehouse for the admiralty’s fleet; cannons, sails, flags and ship equipment were stored here. The imposing building was designed by Daniel Stalpaert, the same architect who designed the City Hall at Dam Square, now the Royal Palace.
A COMMUNICATIONS, SUSTAINABILITY AND TECHNOLOGY HUB Located right next to the beautiful Maritime Museum, the area is now home to several innovative companies and organisations in the fields of media, sustainability, technology and social development, among others. www.marineterrein.nl
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Q&A We had a quick chat with Lars van der Manden, a student at TV Academy – a training ground for aspiring media talent, located at Marineterrein – about his thoughts on this dynamic and inspiring area: CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOUR WORK AND HOW IT IS LIKE AT TV ACADEMY? Every Tuesday, we get masterclasses from professionals in the field. I get to learn from several television producers and presenters. We work on various assignments to become acquainted with the ins and outs of the media world.
WHAT PROJECTS ARE YOU WORKING ON AT THE MOMENT? Right now we are creating our own talk show; we are making three episodes this month. We will also do YouTube’s Creator Academy, where we will be producing four YouTube channels (in groups). Soon, we will be working on our own formats - which we will then pitch to a jury from YouTube!
WHAT MAKES THE MARINETERREIN SPECIAL? WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT IT? It is very, very relaxed and quiet. Not a lot of people know about this special place. What is unique here is that you’re in the middle of the city centre, but you have the feeling that you are working in a quiet park.
WHERE CAN YOU GRAB A QUICK LUNCH OR COFFEE NEARBY? Given its location close to the centre, there are plenty of choices. But closeby, my favourite is Pension Homeland. pensionhomeland.com
ANY FAVORITE ADDRESSES OR UNIQUE INSIDER TIPS ABOUT THE AREA? You can go inside and have a nice lunch at the Maritime Museum. For typical Dutch beers, go to Brouwerij Het Ij. brouwerijhetij.nl For more info about TV Academy: tvacademy.nl
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WHAT’S NEW? (in town) All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.
‘HELLO AMSTERDAM! VISITED THE ANNE FRANK HOUSE FOR THE FIRST TIME AND GOT TO SIGN THE JOURNAL NEXT TO MADONNA FROM 2012.’ WELL THAT’S THE IMPORTANT THING, RIGHT MARIA SHARAPOVA?
text Mark Smith & Angel Trinidad
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ISA GENZKEN, ’NOFRETETE‘, 2014
Danish furniture and lifestyle chain Bolia has recently opened its elegant doors in Amsterdam. Discover an idyllic world of cosy, personal and innovative 'New Scandinavian Design', with their beautiful handmade furniture in minimal styles, luscious colours and inviting textiles. This year´s collection is entitled 'No One Lives Like You', emphasising on the personal and welcoming characteristic of the brand. Welcome to Amsterdam! Utrechtsestraat 78 www.bolia.com
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SCANDINAVIAN BLISS
© PETROVSKY & RAMONE
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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.
1 ISA GENZKEN AT STEDELIJK
Comprising over 200 works, Isa Genzken: Mach Dich hübsch! is the German artist’s first major retrospective in Holland, and her largest survey to date. Get inspired with this bold artist's radical experimentation and unconstrained use of media. Until 6 March Stedelijk Museum www.stedelijk.nl
FRANCESCA WOODMAN © BETTY AND GEORGE WOODMAN
2 FRANCESCA
WOODMAN AT FOAM
4 ICE-SKATING ON MUSEUMPLEIN
Glide your way into the The beautiful black and new year at Ice* Amsterwhite photos of this dam, the ice-skating rink doomed artist who comthat casually uses the mitted suicide at the young monumental Rijksmuseum age of 21, are as gripping as a backdrop. and ethereal as her tragic Until 28 February life story. Museumplein Until 9 March www.iceamsterdam.nl FOAM www.foam.org 5 CHINESE NEW
3 MATA HARI Dance, intrigue and mystery – this breathtaking ballet performance about the life of Margaretha Geertruida Zelle, aka Mata Hari, the infamous Dutch spy and courtesan, is a must-see. 6-26 February Dutch National Ballet www.operaballet.nl
YEAR
To celebrate the dawning of the year of the monkey, festivities take place at the historic Nieuwmarkt neighbourhood on the Saturday following the event. Look out for impromptu parades, fireworks, and hot and tasty Asian food. 6 February Various locations
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‘SEE YOU AT HEINEKEN MUSIC HALL WITH MY BROTHER TYE TRIBBETT!!! #STROOPWAFELS’
‘WITH A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF HUMILITY.’
DESTINY’S CHILD SINGER MICHELLE WILLIAMS DOESN’T HALF WAFFLE ON.
© ANISH KAPOOR, PHOTO OLIVIER MIDDENDORP
ARTIST ANISH KAPOOR, WHEN ASKED HOW HIS OWN WORK WAS INTERACTING WITH THE REMBRANDTS IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM’S GALLERY OF HONOUR.
MEAT ME HERE Three works by celebrated British artist Anish Kapoor are on show in the Gallery of Honour at the Rijksmuseum. The three painted reliefs, created from layers of red and white resin and silicon evoke images of bloody, sinewy lumps of meat, and enters a dialogue with Rembrandt’s late works such as ‘The Jewish Bride’ and ‘The Syndics’ among others. Until 6 March www.rijksmuseum.nl
SPRING ROLL Amsterdam’s famous pagodashaped purveyor of dim sum, the Sea Palace restaurant that rises from the waters of IJ near the OBA Library, is to be moved 75 metres closer to Central Station, despite objections from locals. The sea change has been controversial with residents of the apartments upstream, who fear the relocation will cause wonton destruction of their views.
ART BECOMES YOU The pinnacle of class: hanging your portrait as the Girl with the Pearl Earring or the Prince of Orange on your mantelpiece (or your Facebook profile). MuseumFoto’s new location just opened by the Nieuwe Kerk near Dam Square, to facilitate your costumed entry into art history. Eggertstraat 2 www.museumfoto.amsterdam
www.seapalace.nl
WORLD’S YOUR OYSTER A list compiled by food website The Daily Meal has named a restaurant at Schiphol one of the 35 best airport eateries in the world. Bubbles Seafood & Wine Bar in Lounge 1 of the airport received plaudits for its extravagant arrays of shellfish. The site took into consideration feedback from food critics and chefs as well as reviews from magazines including Conde Nast Traveler. www.schiphol.com
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Marineterrein and surroundings text Angel Trinidad map Gemma Pauwels/SaltyStock
HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM
The National Maritime Museum presents a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
HEMA From sweet stroopwafels and savoury sausages, to cute home and kitchen objects and cheap socks, HEMA’s beloved inventory are staples to every Dutch home. A perfect place to buy snacks and trinkets (that even locals would love). hema.nl
PENSION HOMELAND
The former officers’ quarters-turned-professional pensioners’ home has a beautiful living room, billiards room and restaurant that is open to the public. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in the stunning mid-20th century designed restaurant. Plus, they serve specialty beer made on-location at Homeland’s own brewery. pensionhomeland.com
AMSTERDAM LIBRARY
The top floor of the multilevel public library houses the charming La Place, a restaurant and cafe with fantastic views of the city. oba.nl
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON
A high-end hotel with a sleek, contemporary bar and restaurant on the top floor, DoubleTree offers one of the best panoramic views of the city. Perfect for lounging and cocktails after a long day of meetings. doubletree.hilton.com/Amsterdam
AMSTERDAM ROEST
Converted industrial buildings with a laid-back bar and live music make for a creative city oasis. A bit hard to find, which makes it a real “hidden” gem. amsterdamroest.nl
LLOYD HOTEL AND CULTURAL EMBASSY
With interiors designed by Dutch architects MDRDV and internationally renowned Dutch designers Richard Hutten, Claudy Jongstra and Joep Van Lieshout, Lloyd Hotel offers unique rooms ranging from 5 stars to 1 star. Set in a beautiful 1920s building, this hip hotel and cultural embassy offers an airy cafe/restaurant with a bar and a terrace, plus an art library and regular cultural events. lloydhotel.com
HORTUS BOTANICUS
A lush escape from the bustle of the city and dragging meetings, the city’s beautiful botanical garden is one of the oldest in the world. Founded in 1638 as an herb garden for doctors and apothecaries, it now houses over 6,000 tropical and indigenous trees and plants. dehortus.nl
ARTIS ZOO & MICROPIA
Natura Artis Magistra is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and one of the oldest in mainland Europe. Admire tropical fish in the Aquarium, travel through time at the Planetarium or get up close and personal with the free-roaming lemurs. Also located in the complex is Micropia, the world’s first museum dedicated to microbes and microorganisms. artis.nl, micropia.nl
FILTER AMSTERDAM
A cosy cafe serving “coffee, cookies and a conscience.” Offering homemade pastries and cake made from organic products, Filter also serves single-estate coffee roasted by Amsterdambased White Label. Tip: Try the sandwiches, the avocado and jalapeño grilled cheese sandwich is a bestseller. filteramsterdam.nl
CAFE RESTAURANT DE PLANTAGE
The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to the zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th century converted conservatory which was a former meeting
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facility for the members of the Artis Zoo. And of course, the dishes are impressive, too. caferestaurantdeplantage.nl
RESTAURANT 15
Top chef Jamie Oliver’s industrial-style restaurant offers delicious Modern European food, served and prepared by disadvantaged youngsters which Oliver trained. fifteen.nl
HANNEKE’S BOOM
This shack-style, waterfront cafe is a cosy and alternative place to enjoy drinks and listen to live music. Hang back, relax and watch the boats passing by the IJ river. hannekesboom.nl
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EUROPE BY PEOPLE The Wall
‘Europe by People’ is the official arts and design programme of the EU Presidency 2016, commissioned by the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs. One of its biggest projects is ‘The Wall’, a 450-metre long brick wall surrounding the Marineterrein, which presents an online and offline programme of art installations and performances. text Angel Trinidad
FOUR TIDBITS AND NOT-TOMISS TIPS ABOUT THE WALL:
© MAARTJE STRIJBIS
1. Dive deep and discover what’s
on young people’s minds today. The Wall explores the theme of ‘New Europeans’, serving as a dynamic canvas for temporary art installations and performances. Take a leisurely stroll and enjoy the beautiful (and thought-provoking) art on display in the area. 2. In addition to the on-site exhibitions, the Wall also has an online presence: www.neweuropeans.org, truly connecting it with the rest of Europe and challenging writers and bloggers to share their vision of Europe’s future. 3. Tip: Don’t miss out on Dutch photographer Robin de Puy’s work, a series of beautiful group portraits conveying the diversity of Amsterdam’s population. With people from 180 different nationalities, Amsterdam is a truly cosmopolitan European city. On view from 1 Jan 2016. 4. From February, photographer Raimond Wouda will be exhibiting images of European schools, made over the course of 13 years. Wouda hopes to give a more or less complete picture of contemporary European youth, with its own challenges and political realities. Until 29 Feb 2016. www.europebypeople.nl
‘WHAT KIND OF EUROPE DO WE WANT TO LIVE IN?’
MARJO VAN SCHAIK INTERVIEWS MINISTER BERT KOENDERS AND MAYOR EBERHARD VAN DER LAAN DURING THE EXHIBITION OPENING.
‘ART AND CULTURE ARE PART OF OUR EVERYDAY LIVES.’
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Q&A We got in touch with Marjo van Schaik, intendant of ‘Europe by People’, and chatted about the message of the Wall, art and design, and Europe as a constant inspiration:
CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THE ART, DESIGN & WHAT IS THE MAIN PERFORMANCE WORKS MESSAGE OF THE PROJECT? THAT WILL BE EXHIBITED? We believe that art has the power to create a society that is more confident, beautiful and economically strong. The power of our nation lies in the ability to think innovatively, be creative, work together and connect. This power truly manifests itself in our interaction with other countries and that is why co-operation and co-creation will be at the core of our cultural programme. We will engage with the public, and break barriers between disciplines. We are focusing on a new generation of artists, designers and makers - the people that are actually creating a new Europe in the next few decennia. We’ve asked them to come up with answers to urgent issues and solutions to problems arising from substantial changes.
WHAT IS THE THEME FOR THE WALL? We are working with a team of young European editors – ‘New Europeans’ – with the Wall. They will blog and vlog for six months at www.europebypeople.nl, telling stories about Europe, and by doing so, giving Europe a human face. Several artists will also perform at the Wall or present pop-up installations.
The participating artists, hailing from all parts of Europe, have been asked to address one central question: “What kind of Europe do we want to live in?” The participating artists include Dina Danish, Ronald Rietveld, Henk Wildschut, David Bade, Raimond Wouda and Robin De Puy. De Puy is the first photographer whose works is presented at the Wall.
WHAT INSPIRES YOU ABOUT EUROPE? Working and talking with other Europeans surprises me again and again with new insights on all different things ranging from emancipation, history, social beliefs to eating habits. These different perspectives keep me sharp, as well as inspire me.
HOW DOES ART AND DESIGN AFFECT TODAY'S SOCIETY? In my opinion, it affects everybody on a daily basis. It is a basic need next to eating, drinking and sleeping. Art and culture are part of our everyday lives, affecting all our senses and touching our hearts, souls and minds. It can astonish, irritate, create new things and question things. www.europebypeople.nl
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Dutch Design
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During the EU Presidency at the Marineterrein, delegates will be surrounded by the works of today’s most influential Dutch designers at the Europe building (located opposite the Maritime Museum). From candlesticks to 3D printed facades, we take a closer look at the innovative and stunning creations of these Dutch artists, photographers, architects and designers: text Angel Trinidad
ons STUDIO RODERICK VOS
Designer Roderick Vos created Dutch trade-inspired gifts and souvenirs for the heads of delegations and ministers. These beautiful design objects – vases, glasses, candlesticks and tablecloths – are made with traditional production techniques both from the past and the present, which makes them truly characteristic of Dutch Design. Other eye-catching souvenirs include biscuit tins, teapots and chocolates.
© MARIE CECILE THIJS
roderickvos.com
13 AMSTERDAM NORTH 3D PRINT CANAL HOUSE The city of Amsterdam is an active supporter of projects in the fast-growing 3D printing industry. One such project is the world’s first 3D Print Canal House, an initiative by DUS Architects. The three-year publicly accessible ‘Research & Design by Doing’ project is composed of an international team of partners from various sectors working together on 3D printing a full-size canal house in Amsterdam. Visitors can come to the building site in Amsterdam North and see the entire building chain for themselves - from design and material, to production and construction, installation and design software. The audience’s feedback generates input for research and market explorations: a live user test and feedback loop that intensifies and accelerates the research process. This unique approach makes the building site a platform for innovation and new production techniques.
Exterior DUS ARCHITECTS
The impressive 3D printed entrance and facade of the Europe building is designed by DUS Architects. Partly built from 3D printed material and in line with ‘Explore’ as a theme, large triangular niches are shaped like while sails, a nod to the many sailing ships that were built onsite. The unique 3D printed blue seats fit perfectly in each niche, and are locally produced with a large scale printer, KamerMaker. The printer makes use of a Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) technique where bio-plastic is melted layer by layer, and a computer-controlled knob creates huge spatial objects. dusarchitects.com
3dprintcanalhouse.com
© OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE
© DUS ARCHITECTS
Interior STUDIO EDWARD VAN VLIET In calming waves of blue and white, Studio Edward van Vliet created a beautiful world inside the Europe building. Under the theme ‘Explore’, the designer established a link between innovation and the historic character of the Marineterrein. creatingworlds.edwardvanvliet.com
© MARIE CECILE THIJS
EU Objects photography MARIE CECILE THIJS
Marie Cecile Thijs makes everyday objects look like Golden Age masterpieces. Her profound talent in capturing light and serene moods is evident in the photographs on display in the building. Taking Roderick Vos’ design objects, she created painterly photographs of each souvenir, transforming them into a surreal three-dimensional landscape – rendered in golden light, floating in mid-air.
© BZ | AAD MEIJER
mariececilethijs.com
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EU IN THE CLASSROOM text Angel Trinidad
BRINGING EUROPE CLOSER
One of projects of the city of Amsterdam during the Dutch Presidency is the ‘EU in the Classroom’ project, which aims to bring the EU closer to young people. By inviting EU officials to speak and give a guest lesson in secondary schools, the school project will literally put a face on the European Union, making it come alive for students, and fostering a constructive dialogue. The city invites professionals of the European Institutions who will be coming to Amsterdam, to take an extra hour or two to visit a school and meet the young students of the city. More than 20 schools in Amsterdam and neighbouring municipalities are looking forward to welcoming EU officials as guest speakers to share and discuss their experience with the EU.
© ALPHONS NIEUWENHUIS
In partnership with the University of Amsterdam and the organisation of Amsterdam secondary schools, the municipality aims to match school teachers with EU officials according to their interests, specialties and language requests. During the programme, EU officials will each be assisted by a third year European Studies student from the University of Amsterdam. These students are putting together a special ‘EU in the Classroom’ lesson programme, developing lesson materials with secondary school teachers on various EU themes such as security, the market, European multilingualism and the origin and function of the Euro. The students will act as ambassadors between the schools and the EU officials as they develop the themes under the supervision of the teachers. www.amsterdam.nl/schoolproject
u n he room
Q&A We spoke with Reinbert Flipse, a 21-year old, third year European Studies student from the University of Amsterdam, about his experience and thoughts about the ‘EU in the Classroom’ project: WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO STUDY EUROPEAN STUDIES? European history, politics, culture and languages are topics that interest me, but I could not decide which one I would study. Then I heard of European Studies and was really attracted by the unique combination of all these topics.
WHAT IS YOUR ROLE IN THE EU SCHOOL PROJECT? In September, we started the project by examining the so-called gap between EU politics and citizens, and how to bridge this gap. After that, we studied some basic didactics and teaching methods to learn how we can teach effectively. Then we were divided in groups of 2-3 students and were given 2 schools per group.
At the beginning of October, we met the teachers from these schools who shared with us their thoughts and expectations for the programme. With these expectations, each group made a special lesson plan for each school. There will be an introductory lesson and a guest lesson with an EU civil servant. Each group of students will be present in class to coach. Some of them, like me, will teach the class, others will just help the real teacher and the civil servant.
WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO THE MOST DURING THE VISITS? It seems that most of the pupils are not that interested in the EU. It is also difficult for the civil servants to reach youngsters. I am looking forward to establishing a conversation and discussion about the EU between the pupils and the civil servants, and to see a growing enthusiasm between them.
WHAT DO YOU THINK CAN MAKE 'EUROPE' MORE REAL AND LESS ABSTRACT TO YOUNG PEOPLE? Most pupils have little knowledge about the EU. For them, the EU is something far away in Brussels. The first thing to make the EU more real to them is to teach pupils more about the EU: by
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giving examples they can identify themselves with (like the lowered roaming charges for mobile phones, football transfers between member states, free movement of persons). In this way, they can think about how the EU influences their daily lives. In our programme, this is the main goal for the introductory lessons, to prepare for the civil servant's visit. This visit is the next step in making the EU less abstract. When the pupils meet someone 'from the EU', hear about his/her work and why he/she has chosen this job, it becomes a lot more real for them.
Do you wish to take part of the programme as a guest lecturer? To learn more about the EU in the Classroom programme, visit: amsterdam.nl/schoolproject
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The Amsterdam Canals
The beautiful Amsterdam canals are what fairytale dreams are made of. Spend some time discovering its idyllic charms: peek inside the historic canal houses, visit a canal house museum or take a boat trip around the UNESCO heritage site canal belt. For sure, you will take home golden memories that will last a lifetime. text Angel Trinidad
HISTORY During the Dutch Golden Age, trade, shipbuilding and industry were flourishing in the city as never before. The city was bursting at the seams, with immigration rising. In 1613, the city launched a series of expansions and renovations, and three major canals were built around the old city - Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. Forming concentric belts around the medieval city centre, construction proceeded from west to east, like a gigantic windshield wiper as the historian Geert Mak calls it. This Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) now forms the heart of Amsterdam, which nowadays counts more than one hundred kilometres of canals, 90 islands, 1,500 bridges, and around 1550 monumental buildings situated by the main canals.
UNESCO HERITAGE SITE The 17th-century canal ring area, including the Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, Herengracht and Jordaan, were placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2010. “The Amsterdam Canal District illustrates exemplary hydraulic and urban planning on a large scale through the entirely artificial creation of a large-scale port city. The gabled facades are characteristic of this middleclass environment, and the dwellings bear witness both to the city’s enrichment through maritime trade and the development of a humanist and tolerant culture linked to the Calvinist Reformation. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Amsterdam was seen as the realization of the ideal city that was used as a reference urban model for numerous projects for new cities around the world.” Source: whc.unesco.org/en/list/1349
CANAL S UR BOAT TO
THE GOLDEN BEND Located between between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat The Herengracht was the most expensive canal on which to build, and attracted the wealthiest inhabitants in the city. Some of the richest buyers acquired two or three adjacent plots and built truly grand, palatial houses. As the Herengracht is the shortest of the three main canals, its curves bend sharpest at what became known as the Gouden Bocht or the Golden Bend, pictured here at a 1685 painting by Gerrit Adriaenszoon Berckheyde (Rijksmuseum). This was where the crème de la crème of Amsterdam’s elite built their homes.
CANAL HOUSE MUSEUMS
m an oon
A 17th century mansion of the wealthy Van Loon family. Dutch Golden Age artist Ferdinand Bol also lived here. Keizersgracht 672 museumvanloon.nl
m f s d Ps
A beautiful collection of bags from the 16th century to the present time. The high tea at the cafe is a grand experience. Herengracht 573 tassenmuseum.nl
atn abt
Located at the Gouden Bocht, this cat museum presents paintings, drawings and sculptures depicting cats (with works from Picasso and Rembrandt). Herengracht 497 kattenkabinet.nl
m ecknon
A grand mansion showcasing 17th century patrician wealth. The museum also offers classical music concerts. Keizersgracht 633 geelvinck.nl
FOAM
An outstanding photography museum focusing on all genres, from fine art to documentary, and historical and contemporary. Keizersgracht 609 foam.org
s e
This beautiful photography museum is located in two beautiful 17th century canal houses. Keizersgracht 401 huismarseille.nl
mtohn
A 'time capsule' patrician mansion with authentic 19th century interiors; it was inherited by the city after its two owners passed away, with all its interiors and furnitures intact.
Herengracht 605 willetholthuysen.nl
© GERRIT ADRIAENSZ. BERCKHEYDE DE BOCHT VAN DE HERENGRACHT (1671-1672) COURTESY OF THE RIJKSMUSEUM
ises Canal Cru l canal.n onal Internati Holland l hir.n t Blue Boa .nl blueboat ooij Rederij K nl oij. o jk ri e d re las Rederij P l s.n la jp ri e red ises anal Cru Lovers C l .n rs ve lo
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MEDIAMATIC
Mediamatic is a cultural organisation with a twist: part laboratory, part brewery, aquaponics farm, exhibition space, restaurant and bar, this innovative organisation is passionate about art and nature. Its team investigates the potential and application of living matter - such as bacteria and fungi - for the arts, design and society. © NATHALIE SOFTENS
e ed hm e ios ot hr ihorhood n teram d oered rere roe f s: 1. WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THE KATTENBURG NEIGHBOURHOOD AS YOUR HQ? The municipality asked us to make a proposal for the temporary use of the location, and we immediately saw the area’s potential. It is one of the few places in the city centre where you have direct access to the beautiful waterside. Because our Biotoop is actually a collection of different buildings, we found the perfect place to host our restaurant, workshops, lectures and exhibitions.
2. WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT THE AREA? WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT IT? By joining forces with the neighbouring floating houses and entrepreneurs, we were able to open up this fantastic area to the public. We created this new urban hotspot called Dijkspark. There is so much more than just Mediamatic here.
3. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE THINGS TO DO HERE? FAVOURITE ADDRESSES? Just sitting on the waterside and having a drink! Or maybe eating free fish from the local waters. (As well as peeing in the art installation Pure Gold!) Taking a boat trip with Rederij Lampedusa, visiting the Biotalk
lectures, climbing in Klimmuur Centraal and strolling along the Dijksgracht, one of the last rough edges that is so close to the city centre.
4. WHERE CAN YOU GRAB A NICE DINNER AND DRINKS NEARBY? Our own Biotoop Restaurant, of course. We serve bread from our wood-fired oven, freshly brewed local beers, and fresh fish from the Amsterdam waters. We also love our neighbours: Barco and Hanneke’s Boom. For fine dining, Restaurant Choux and &Samhoud Places are fancy options nearby.
5. ANY HIDDEN GEMS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE WITH US? The sunset view from our waterfront greenhouse and the mysterious glowing pink grow lights of the aquaponics farm. Also, take a stroll along Dijksgracht and participate in the Raising Doubts art project by German artist Jasmin Moeller, where you can answer questions about life by sowing seeds in the grow beds. Take the beautifully handcrafted punch card home as a souvenir. www.mediamatic.net
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THEN AND NOW
JUNE 1997
This photo of ministers on bicycles was taken 18 years ago, in 17 June 1997, when the Netherlands also held the Presidency of the Council of the European Union. On a picturesque bridge in Amsterdam, Prime Minister Wim Kok (left) gives cycling instructions to Tony Blair and Spanish Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar. Also seen at the back is Belgian Prime Minister Jean Luc Dehaene on his bicycle. On this day, the Resolution of the Amsterdam European Council on the stability and growth pact was signed, providing the Member States, the Council and the Commission with firm policy guidelines for the timely and rigorous implementation of the stability and growth pact. The
Stability and Growth Pact sees that Member States agree to strengthen the surveillance and coordination of national fiscal and economic policies to enforce the Maastricht rules. A day after, on 18 June 1997, one of the most important treaties of the EU was signed: the Treaty of Amsterdam. The Treaty of Amsterdam increased powers of the European Parliament in diverse areas including new abilities to legislate on immigration, civil and criminal law and to enact foreign and security policy (CFSP), as well as institutional changes for expansion as new member nations of the EU join. Photo: Paul Vreeker (ANP)
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WHAT’S ON
EXHIBITIONS CATWALK
© ERWIN OLAF, MODEL: YMRE STIEKEMA, WEDDING DRESS (1759)
The Rijksmuseum presents for the first time a large collection of its diverse fashion collection in a dazzling exhibition by world-renowned photographer Erwin Olaf. With over 100 spectacular examples of Dutch fashion dating from 1625-1960, 'Catwalk' showcases vibrantly coloured French silk gowns and luxurious velvet gentlemen’s suits from the 18th century, classically-inspired Empire dresses and bustles of the Fin de Siècle culminating in 20th-century French haute couture by Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. Our favourite: the widest dress in the Netherlands, Helena Slicher’s (1737-1776) wedding gown dated 1759, with its elaborately decorated (and humongous) skirt. 20 Feb-15 May www.rijksmuseum.nl
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EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS MIRÓ & COBRA. THE JOY OF EXPERIMENT The first major exhibition of Joan Miró’s work in the Netherlands in 59 years shows more than 80 of his artworks amidst the context of the CoBrA movement. The exhibition also features 60 works by various CoBrA artists, including Karel Appel, Asger Jorn, Constant and Pierre Alechinsky. CoBrA Museum, until 31 Jan 81 THINGS WHICH I THOUGHT I FORGOT Flemish artist Jasper Rigole collects other people’s memories - films, photos and objects, so called memory documents found in thrift shops, flea markets and other places. He archives them in his fictional institute: The International Institute for the Conservation, Archiving and Distribution of Other People’s Memories. De Brakke Grond, until 31 Jan ROME. THE DREAM OF EMPEROR CONSTANTINE This impressive collection shows how Christianity grew in imperial Rome, from being a minor religious community to becoming a major world religion, illustrated by treasures of Roman art and architecture from the 4th century AD and onwards. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 7 Feb MARTIN ROEMERS – METROPOLIS Photographer Roemer explores modern life in megacities, letting us immerse ourselves in these extreme, urban worlds. His atmospheric photographs consist of agglomerations and are taken with long exposure times, meaning traffic and people merge to become blurred, swirling currents. Huis Marseille, until 6 Mar SPANISH MASTERS FROM THE HERMITAGE Subtitled The World of El Greco, Ribera, Zurbarán, Velázquez, Murillo & Goya,
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VAN GOGH: 400 DAYS IN AMSTERDAM Before he became a starving artist and a posthumously acclaimed post-impressionist master, Van Gogh wanted to be a minister. He spent a year in Amsterdam, living with his uncle, studying Theology - 400 days between May 1877 and July 1878 during which he continued his famous correspondence with his brother Theo and expressed his fondness for the city: ‘It’s a beautiful place here, that I’d love to be able to share with you and show you.’ A bit self-prophesizing as he’d paint this littleknown painting of his fond memory of Amsterdam eight years later, in 1885 - the same year as the Potato Eaters, also shown at this retrospective exhibit of the City Archives which contains all the letters sent to Theo during his short, failed stint as a future man of the cloth. Collection P. & N. de Boer Foundation, Until 17 April www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl this grand exhibition of Spanish art and artefacts includes more than 60 superior paintings and a rich collection of graphic works and applied arts masterpieces. As well as the grand masters, it features paintings by their pupils and later painters, up to and including Picasso Hermitage Amsterdam, until 29 May REMBRANDT’S NAKED TRUTH Based on the latest research, Rembrandt’s Naked Truth features 17th-century nude studies that have never before been brought together in such large numbers. It will be the first time that Rembrandt’s frank approach to drawing nudes will be examined in depth and brought to the attention of a wide audience. Expect more than 50 objects collected from around the world. Rembrandt House Museum, 12 Feb-16 May
PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family during WWII. Make sure to buy tickets in advance, as the lines can be long. EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema. The restaurant is a great place to have drinks, with a view of the IJ river. HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century.
HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants. It is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life. ONS LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canal house attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public. RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th century. KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is now on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the best pieces from the design collection. TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographicallythemed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing series of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work. See complete listing: www.iamsterdam.com
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS NATIONAL TULIP DAY It’s as synonymous with the Netherlands as windmills and cheese, but while the tulip remains one of Amsterdam’s most notable icons, few visitors get to see these luscious flowers this early in the year – apart from at the Flower Market. However, National Tulip Day should bring some much-needed colour to a cold January weekend, with visitors invited to a huge temporary tulip garden on Dam Square where they can pick their own beautiful bloom. 16 Jan, Dam Square, www.tulpen.nl AMSTERDAM HOTEL NIGHT Each January Amsterdammers are invited to experience their city through the eyes of tourists by enjoying an overnight stay in a local hotel. Grab a special discount deal for this night and enjoy a host of special cultural, culinary and festive program- ming at hotels around the city. (Yes, you do need to show proof of residence in Amsterdam.) 16 & 17 Jan, various locations, www.hotelnacht.nl REALISME This annual art fair welcomes a huge range of renowned galleries from the Netherlands and abroad as they present (and sell) works by Dutch and international artists working in various mediums within the figurative and realistic genres. With lofty claims of being the only art fair dedicated solely to figurative art, Realisme showcases established artists with a respectable oeuvre as well as young upand-comers breathing new life into the genre. 21-24 Jan, Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, www. realismeamsterdam.com RECORDPLANET’S RECORD & CD FAIR Calling all vinyl (well, and plastic) lovers! This annual event promises hundreds of stands offering a huge selection of LPs, CDs and DVDs alongside an impressive
collection of pop merchandise. Whether you’re a DJ, collector or a regular music fan looking for new (or old) inspiration, there’s sure to be something for everyone. 23 Jan, RAI Amsterdam, www.recordplanet.nl
have your portfolio evaluated. 29 Jan, Gerrit Rietveld Academie,www.gerritrietveldacademie.nl MONO JAPAN Mono Japan is a cultural exhibition and fair specialising
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CROSS-LINX FESTIVAL This annual, multi-city festival straddles musical boundaries by promoting refreshing combinations of indie, pop and classical music. Headliners at the 2016 edition include Neil Finn (Crowded House/Split Enz), who’ll be performing an orchestral concert with Wilco drummer and composer Glenn Kotche. American violin-wielding singer-songwriter Andrew Bird joins the fun, as does former REM guitarist Peter Buck, plus a host of other bands and classical ensembles. 26 Feb, Muziekgebouw/Bimuis, www.cross-linx.nl FOOD SOUL FESTIVAL This tasty festival transforms the Kromhouthal in Amsterdam Noord into a massive restaurant offering a lip-smacking range of delicious food. A top quality mix of mobile kitchens are expected to roll up for a weekend of culinary fun, serving up dishes from all corners of the globe. 29-31 Jan, Kromhouthal, www.foodsoulfestival.nl OPEN DAY GERRIT RIETVELD ACADEMIE Whether you’re considering applying for this renowned art school in Amsterdam, or just wondering what it’s like to study there, the institution is hosting an open day. Go and take a look in the workshops, have a talk with teachers and students or
in all things Japanese. Look out for the likes of ceramics, textiles, clothing, teas and sakes, while the cultural programme includes a host of workshops and lectures, ensuring you can soak up real Japanese culture right here in Amsterdam. 6 & 7 Feb, Lloyd Hotel, www.monojapan.nl AMSTERDAM SALSA FESTIVAL It may still be a bit chilly outside, but you’re sure to feel the heat at this annual salsa event. The festival features three days of dance workshops, performances by Dutch and international dancers and blow-out theme parties. 12-14 Feb, Rhone Congress & Party Centre, www.amsterdamsalsafestival.nl
24H OOST 24H Amsterdam is an opportunity to enjoy the very best of all that Amsterdam is and has to offer. This winter edition takes place around the neighbourhoods in the east of the city. Take part in special tours, workshops and events or catch unusual performances, talks and sessions in venues, cafés, shops and other unique locations. 13 & 14 Feb, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com FITC AMSTERDAM FITC stands for future, innovation, technology and creativity, and this event is geared towards those working or interested in the fields of design and technology and the numerous areas where they overlap. 23 & 24 Feb, Pakhuis de Zwijger, www.fi tc.ca SONIC ACTS ACADEMY Sonic Acts hosts a new programme at the intersection of art, music and science at several locations in Amsterdam. Over the course of three days, the Academy will invite artists, theorists, and scientists to expand on their research through lectures, concerts, film programmes, work presentations, masterclasses and workshops. 6-28 Feb, various locations, www.sonicacts.com HELEMAAL MELKWEG This recurring event does exactly as the name (literally: Complete Melkweg) suggests, throwing open the whole of this former dairy factory for an evening of music, performance, exhibition and cinema action. Special guests at this edition in- clude the global sounds of Mala Vita, Mark Foggo’s Skasters, flamenco grooves from Canteca de Macao and there’s more to be confirmed. Sat 27 Feb, Melkweg, www. melkweg.nl
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MUSIC HOZIER Hozier made a big splash with his hit single ‘Take Me To Church’, about marriage equality, which became the anthem and led the charge for Ireland to vote in favour of same-sex marriage. After a run of increasingly larger sold out theatre and club shows in town, he’s now step- ping up to arena level. Mon 25 Jan, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €32.50 ELLIE GOULDING British dance pop star Ellie Goulding comes to the Ziggo Dome off the back of her 2015 record Delirium. The album, the artist says, was a conscious decision towards a more direct pop sound. Tue 26 Jan, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €28-€36 SUEDE Following a breakup and reformation, the classic ’90s Britpop rockers are back. Forming in 1989, their selftitled debut album in 1993 won the prestigious Mercury Music Prize. New album Night Thoughts comes out in January. Fri 29 Jan, Paradiso, 20:30, €36 DAUGHTER Atmospheric indie trio Daughter, out of North London, began in 2010. They released their first album If You Leave in 2013 following three EPs. Stay tuned as the band announced its follow-up Not to Disappear for January. Mon 1 Feb, Paradiso, 20:30, €20 FOALS British rockers Foals shook off their progressive elements in favour of a heavier direction on latest record What Went Down. Last year they played a brutal and sweaty sold-out show in Melkweg and now they’re back with a venue upgrade. Thur 2 Jan, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €32 IMAGINE DRAGONS Making a big splash with their hit ‘Radioactive’ in 2012/13 and debut album Night Visions, the Las Vegas
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TAME IMPALA The psyche-rockers from Perth, Australia return to Amsterdam in support of their third LP Currents. Dreamy and atmospheric but still rocking, as on tracks ‘Eventually’ and ‘Nangs’. They’ll be supported by fellow Australians and Madchester proponents Jagwar Ma. Fri 29 Jan, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, e34
MASSIVE ATTACK Originators of the triphop sound, Massive Attack haven’t released a record since 2010’s Heligoland, but there have been rumours that they’re recording again with erstwhile band member Tricky, as well as rappers Run the Jewels, and promised that new material will see the light of day this year. Either way, get set for a bass-heavy trip. Thur 25 Feb, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00,€46 rockers have backed it with 2015’s Smoke + Mirrors and lead single ‘I Bet My Life’. Fri 5 Feb, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €29-€39 WOLF ALICE Four-piece indie band from London, Wolf Alice have
HINDS Hinds are an all-girl garage band from Spain who make jangly lo-fi pop. Singing in English and Spanish, they’ve been hyped by the likes of The Guardian and NME, and musicians like The Black Keys or Primal Scream. Following a run of successful singles and sweaty gigs, their debut record Leave Me Alone is released early January.'Leave Me Alone' is released early in January. Sat 27 Feb, Bitterzoet, 21:00, €11 been playing together since 2010. Led by dual vocalists Ellie Rowsell and Joff Oddie, there are elements of indie, shoegaze and folk to their debut LP, the confidently titled My Love is Cool. Thur 11 Feb, Paradiso, 20:30, €15
ANGEL HAZE Backed by a heady mix of EDM and hip-hop, Angel Haze is a rapper from Brooklyn. Her rhymes have fired rapidly across two records, 2014’s Dirty Gold and 2015’s Back to the Woods, as well as a series of mixtapes. Sat 13 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, €12.50 HALF MOON RUN From Montreal, Indie four-piece Half Moon Run come to Amsterdam with their latest album Sun Leads Me On. The record sounds like they’ve spent long summer nights in the Quebec countryside, sitting around campfires listening to Radiohead, Neil Young and Travis. Tue 16 Feb, Paradiso, 20:30, €20 VILLAGERS Villagers are an indie-folk band from Ireland led by Conor O’Brien. Formed in 2008 following the breakup of his previous band The Immediate, Villagers and O’Brien are releasing their fourth record Where Have You Been All My Life? in January. Tue 16 Feb, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €19 LEMAITRE This Norwegian indie dance outfit are named after Belgian priest Georges Lemaitre who proposed the Big Bang Theory. Similarly, the duo create their own big bang, mixing dance elements with live instrumentation for a jazzy house blend. Wed 17 Feb, Melkweg, 20:30, €13.50 GRIMES The young Canadian singer and musician released her latest record Art Angels in November. A darling of the experimental indie scene, her music often mixes blissed-out and ethereal vocals with electronica, pop and elements of R&B. Sun 28 Feb, Paradiso, 21:30, €22
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PRETTY THINGS
Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Elisah Jacobs & Angel Trinidad
COURTESY OF MISCELLANEOUS
the ultimate beauty experience DE BIJENKORF'S BEAUTY WORLD SERVICES
paper heaven LIKE STATIONERY & MISCELLANEOUS These two stationery stores are filled to the brim with exquisite paper products, notebooks, planners, calendars, pens and everything that make up a paper-lovers’ heart. Located on the idyllic Prinsenstraat, Like Stationery offers a colourful array of Korean, Japanese, Danish and Dutch paper products. You can also find unique Riso-printed items created by the owner Sanne, who’s a designer herself. Miscellaneous presents a more minimalist stationery offering from brands such as Midori, Postalco, le typographe and Marjolein de Haas, as well as books from Gestalten and Monocle. www.likestationery.com www.misc-store.com
De Bijenkorf Amsterdam recently opened an entire renewed 1,200 m2 cosmetics department on the ground floor, with 25 counters and a treatment room. Also on hand are 200 make-up and skincare specialists especially dedicated to advising you on the tens of thousands of beauty products available from the store’s wide selection of luxury cosmetics and perfume brands. In March, the monumental store will also be one of the lucky few to introduce British brand Charlotte Tilbury. The store’s modernised windows and the use of gorgeous materials such as marble and glass contribute to the bright and luxurious atmosphere of Beauty World. Feeling pampered yet? Dam 1 www.debijenkorf.nl
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TRIP AROUND THE WORLD Exotic shopping & dining in the heart of Amsterdam
text Elisah Jacobs & Angel Trinidad
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HARVEST AND COMPANY Their industrial designs, vintage furniture and interior goodies were mostly found in old factories in Eastern Europe but have been renovated and are now ready to use and fabulously unique. Also try Woodies at Berlin in Amsterdam Noord.
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HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY Inspired by Asian local markets, this colourful place is filled with Asian flavours. The open kitchen allows you to admire the chef’s magic while eating your Siu Mai dim sum (Chinese), Bun Chao meatballs (Vietnamese) or Massaman Neau curry (Thai).
Tweede Helmersstraat 96 www.harvestandcompany.com Ms van Riemsdijkweg 51 www.woodiesatberlin.nl
Bilderdijkstraat 158 www.happyhappyjoyjoy.asia
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ABC The American Book Center is the place to shop for English-language books and magazines. Try the ‘blind date’: buy a book based solely on the employees’s keywords and recommendations. Spui 12 www.abc.nl
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BY AMFI A platform for the students, teachers and alumni of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, the shop fills its racks with a new iNDiViDUALS collection every season. Winter 2016 is all about cosy pyjamas, brushed wools and felted fabrics. Spui 23 www.amfi.nl/byamfi
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TON TON CLUB This “newschool” arcade hall located at the historic Zuiveringshal at Westergasterrein is a neon-lighted wonderland of video games and pinball machines - it even has a Dance Dance Revolution room. The lively hangout is also a restaurant and bar, serving Japanese-American dishes such as the Ramen Burger, dumplings, pancakes and milkshakes (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic). Game on! Pazzanistraat 37 www.tontonclub.nl
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HAY Inspired by Danish furniture from the ’50s and ’60s, HAY designs funky furniture, lighting and accessories with lots of pastel colours for that typical Scandinavian touch. Spuistraat 281 www.hay-amsterdam.com
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ABYSSINIA AFRICAN GROCERY
This supermarket brings African flavours, spirit and products into your home, including East-African spices like berbere and bula, beers, tea, dabo kollo (fried cookies), Ethiopian kocho (African pancake), beauty products such as cocoa butter and African fashion. J.P. Heijestraat 186 www.abyssiniagrocery.nl
BETTY BLUE Betty Blue is simply pastry heaven. They also serve breakfast and lunch with a French touch, and sell fashion and lifestyle goodies. Snoekjessteeg 1-3 www.bettyblueamsterdam.nl
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ROSE’S CANTINA Dinner at Rose’s Cantina feels like a night out in Mexico. Try the Chili Colorado nachos with guacamole, the pulled pork taco, classic quesadillas, the Rose’s enchiladas and of course dulce de leche for dessert. Reguliersdwarsstraat 40 www.rosescantina.com
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SCANDINAVIAN EMBASSY This sparse, minimal cafe serves the best fika and Swedish dishes in town. Serving delicious coffee from diverse micro-roasters in Scandinavia (including famed Drop Coffee Roasters in Stockholm and Koppi Fine Coffee Roasters in Helsingbor)and counting the 2013 Brewers Cup Champion of Sweden as its head barista, Scandinavian Embassy is a must-visit in Amsterdam. Tip: the cinnamon buns are the best in the country! Sarphatipark 34 www.scandinavianembassy.nl
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Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers. text Karin Engelbrecht
RESTAURANT C
Wibautstraat 125 www.c.amsterdam
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ituated in a recently renovated former newspaper office, the gimmick’s in the name here. Instead of the expected three-course structure, the menu is organised by temperature zones, with ‘raw and cold’ (0-20˚C) tartares and salads, fish and meats cooked at a ‘low temperature’ (4080˚C), ‘steamed and cooked’ (100˚C) soups and pastas, and ‘grilled and roasted’ (200 ˚C) burgers and steaks. There’s a perfectly presented steak tartare with sphere-fied egg yolks, anchovy, artichoke and radish (€10,50), which although a tad too finely minced for our taste, still managed to put up a pretty palatable performance of flavours and textures. Tender lobster, a flavourful bisque foam and a Parmesan crisp perches on creamy basil gnocchi (€15,00), while unbeatable burgers are dressed with bone marrow, onion and aioli (€12,00). Dessert is a desert island dream of caramelized banana and creamy coconut ice cream with sticky salted toffee and crispy bits (€10,00), and there’s superb Buscaglione coffee. Chef-owner and Dutch MasterChef Judge Michiel van der Eerde honed his skills at famous Michelin-starred establishments – and it shows.
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FANCY SOME DUTCH FOOD?
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critic’s choice FOODHALLEN
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ocated in the refurbished belly of a former tram depot in West, Amsterdam’s first high-end indoor food court is still drawing in the crowds a year after opening. Visitors of every age and persuasion sit around tiny tables discussing what to try next. And, with over 20 food stands to choose from, ranging from local bitterballen to Indian tandoori lamb wraps, Vietnamese rice paper rolls, Japanese sushi and Australian pies, some indecision is always on the menu. Don’t forget to admire the building’s original architectural features – exposed tram rails, raw brickwork walls, arched olive doors, soaring glass ceilings – and, of course, the adjacent shops, too.
Bellamyplein 51 www.foodhallen.nl
classic TAIKO Taiko is a sleek Asian restaurant inside the glorious Conservatorium Hotel. The design is stunning, but the spectacular achievement of this Japanese oasis is clearly its topquality kitchen. The chef, Schilo van Coevoorden, manages to infuse the complex Japanese cuisine philosophy into all of his dishes. It is the best Asian food made by a non-Asian chef. Try the Forbidden soup, and you will fully understand our admiration for this man. (From: Must Eat Amsterdam by Luc Hoornaert, Lannoo Publishers) Van Bearlestraat 27 www.conservatoriumhotel.com
msterdammers don’t eat their version of split pea soup ‘cold’ or ‘ninedays-old’, like in the classic English nursery rhyme. But, we do have a thing for one-day-old pea soup, which is known as 'snert' in Dutch. The resting time allows for the flavours to deepen and the soup to thicken. Traditionally, it’s served with slices of rookworst (Dutch smoked sausage) and rye bread topped with katenspek (a type of Dutch bacon that is first cooked, then smoked). It’s a local winter favourite, enjoyed as a family meal at home or as an aprèsskating treat. The best place to try old-fashioned Dutch snert is at Oud-Zuid landmark La Falote, where they lovingly make the soup from scratch 365 days a year. Or try Moeders, a cosy West-side restaurant charmingly decorated with hundreds of pictures of mothers, which serves up all the nursery favourites for which Dutch mothers are famous. Otherwise, check out Haesje Claes, Ham Hmm, D'Vijff Vlieghen, Wilden Zwijnen or 't Zwaantje – cosy restaurants that serve classic Dutch dishes. LA FALOTE www.lafalote.nl MOEDERS www.moeders.com HAESJE CLAES haesjeclaes.nl HAP HMM hap-hmm.nl RESTAURANT D'VIJFF VLIEGHEN vijffvlieghen.nl WILDE ZWIJNEN wildezwijnen.com 'T ZWAANTJE zwaantje-restaurant.nl
Book online vangoghmuseum.com/easyvirtue Van Gogh engages you.