Wine Notes ···
Rueda Wine is Different By AJ Linn
A new phrase entered Spanish drinking language recently: “Un Rueda por favor” (the “por favor” is optional, depending on the speaker’s background). Such a term was never used previously for a white wine, in spite of the fact that it has always been normal to ask for a “Rioja” or a “Ribera del Duero” when ordering a red. What makes Rueda wines so interesting is that the original white grape variety of the Rueda region is verdejo, and it develops in the same way as the palomino grape used to make sherry since time immemorial. Once cut from the vine it oxidises. This was exactly what the drinkers of the 17th century preferred, and half of the production was sent to Madrid – until the phylloxera bug wiped out all of Spain’s vineyards in the last quarter of the 19th century and first quarter of the 20th. The only way to recover was by planting resistant vines that took so many years to get into production that Rueda wines lost their market, and it looked as if the long love affair was finally over. Past and present Rueda wineries have been criticised for over-commercialising the product, in rather the same way as sherry producers did during the last decades of the 20th century. In fact no-one took Rueda wines seriously until bodegas from other established areas came calling. The Marqués de Riscal winery was the first. It was looking for somewhere to produce a white wine that could complement its famous Rioja red, and the verdejo grape fitted the bill, although later the sauvignon blanc also became established. One of the first complications was to eliminate the characteristic that had made the verdejo-based wines so popular all those centuries ago – the grape’s habit of oxidising on picking. To avoid this, present-day grape harvests commence many hours before sunrise using artificial light. From the moment the grapes are loaded into pallets for transporting to the presses, nitrogen gas is blown over them. Once at the winery they are transferred to sealed tanks and once again subjected to continual blasts of nitrogen to prevent contact with the air. After pressing, the resulting must is similarly treated, as is the fermented wine, until the moment it is sealed in bottles. Only in this way can the delicate crispness of the verdejo grape be preserved in its natural state. In addition to the verdejo and sauvignon blanc varieties, other grapes used are palomino fino and viura. The wines have become popular outside Spain and 20 per cent of the region’s production is exported to 30 countries. It is significant that even French wine producers ( for example, Belondrade-Lurton from Bordeaux) have established bodegas in the area.
When looking for a bottle of white Rueda in your local wine store, bear in mind that it is graded according to quality. The Rueda Superior is the best, followed by Rueda, which tends to be younger; then come Rueda Pálido and Rueda Dorado. These last two are what is known as generosos, being aged for three to four years in oak casks to achieve a higher alcoholic content and a darker colour, something like old sherry. Everyday drinking Rueda is fine, but for a special occasion choose Rueda Superior. The Marqués de Riscal white Rueda is as good as any with which to start (the label actually says “Herederos de...” / “Descendants of...”). This is an exceptional white wine, with a clean distinct flavour and enough body to satisfy anyone. The Rueda Superior and Marqués de Riscal Reserva Limousin are excellent. Anyone familiar with Ribera del Duero reds will probably have tasted Yllera wines, although for the sake of a few kilometres they cannot use the official denomination of the region. They are produced in Rueda. Los Curros’ white Ruedas are true DO wines, and excellent. The award-winning Viña Cantosan is an outstanding buy at around €8.50, and the Viña Cantosan aged in oak costs about €8. Mantel Blanco Rueda Superior from Álvarez y Díez is indeed a superior wine and worth the €9.50 price tag.
Fine Wining Many otherwise excellent restaurants have very tired wine lists. We see nothing new or exciting, just the same old wines that have been around forever. However there are some notable exceptions, and in this column the aim is to highlight them and incentivise their efforts. MAISON LU This is a new restaurant in Marbella that concentrates on typical French cuisine with an Andalucian touch. Chef Juanlu Fernández has a Michelin star restaurant in Jerez, the only one ever. The rotisserie section concentrates on pigeon, duck, cockerel, etc. The wine list is exceptional and among Marbella’s best, particularly strong on champagnes and sherries, with an ample French selection, and other varieties from most wine-producing countries. Prices are on the high side but not excessively so for such an outstanding offer.
172 JANUARY & FEBRUARY 2020
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19/12/19 16:45