Yale Forklift A809 (GC_GLC030BF) Service Manual - PDF DOWNLOAD

Sheet 1: General Information

GENERAL INFORMATION ENGINE SPECIFICATION TABLE Model Piston Displacement Starting Method Classification Number and Arrangement of Cylinders Combustion Chamber Type Valve Mechanism Bore X Stroke Compression Ratio Compression Pressure Maximum Output Maximum Torque Overall Dimensions Valve or Port Action timing

Intake Exhaust

Open Close Open Close

Valve Clearance

Intake Exhaust No Load Rotation Speed RPM Lubrication Type Hydraulic Pump Unit Lubrication Oil Filter Capacity Cooling Method Cooling Water Volume Cooling Unit Water Pump Thermostat Air cleaner Type Number Fuel System Fuel line material Fuel pump Gasoline Fuel filter type Carburetor Manufacturer Type Gas valve diameter mm/(in.)

Venturi diameter mm/(in.)

Air valve Air cleaner Type Number Fuel System Filter Manufacturer Model LPG Carburetor Manufacturer Model Converter Manufacturer Model Voltage Type Ignition timing

Ignition Electrical System

Distributor Contactor Beaker Spark Centrifugal Advance Vacuum Spark Plug

Type Screw Gap

D5 Type Engine 1, 490 cc (91 cu. in.)

Self-Starter Four-Cycle Gasoline Engine Vertical In-line Four Cylinders Multi-sphere Type Chain Drive Overhead Valve 77 X 80 mm (3.03 X 3.15 in.)

9.0 to 1 12.0 kg/cm2 (170 PSI) 30 H. P. @ 2400 R. P. M. 10 kg. m. @ 1600 R. P. M. (72 ft. Ibs. @ 1600 R. P. M.) Length Height 594.8mm 614mm 23 42 in 24.17 in.

8°BTDC 55°ATDC 62°BTDC 8°ATDC 0.25mm (0.010 in.)

0.30mm (0.012 in.)

600-650 Pressure Feed Trochoid Type Full Flow 3.7 Liters (3.9 Quarts) Water-Cooled, With V-Belt 5.5 Liters (5.8 Quarts For Engine Only) Centrifugal Type With V-Belt Wax-Type Cyclone filter 1 Steel pipe or rubber hose Diaphragm Paper filter Nippon Kika Co. , LTD. Down-draft, one stage/barrel 28 (1.1 ) 22 x 7 (0.87 x 0.28) Butterfly type Cyclone filter 1 IMPCO VFF30 IMPCO CA100-138 IMPCO J 12 Volt, Negative Ground Battery Ignition 7°BTDC @ 600-650 RPM Gasoline 10°BTDC @ 600-650 RPM L. P. G. Regular Type Breakerless Solid State 0/700-7/1200-9.5/1 500°RPM 0/75°-7/350/mmHg 0/75°-0.276/350°in Hg. YALE 5174508-00 M14 x 1.25 0.8mm (0.032 in.)

Width 770.8mm 30.35 in

Sheet 1: General Information Firing Order Charging Generator

Starting Motor

Engine Four Side Views

Fig. 1-1 1. Cooling fan 2. Timing chain cover 3. Crankshaft pulley 4. V-belt

Fig. 1-2 1. Oil level dipstick 2. Water pump

Type Output V-A Voltage and Current Regulator Type Type Output KW

1-3-4-2 Alternating Current 12 Volts -35 Amps IC Regulator

Electromagnetic Type 0.8

Sheet 1: General Information 3. Alternator 4. Exhaust manifold

Fig. 1-3 1. Carburetor 2. Governor 3. Cylinder head cover Fig. 1-4 1. Air cleaner 2. Fuel pump 3. Oil filter 4. Distributor 5. Oil pan 6. Oil pressure switch

GENERAL The D5 type engine is a water-cooled, four cylinder overhead valve gasoline engine with the following specifications.

Model Fuel combustion chamber type Bore x stroke Displacement Compression ratio Compression pressure Maximum output Maximum torque

1.

D5 Multi-sphere type 77 x 80mm (3.03 x 3.15 in.)

1490 cc (91 cu. in.)

9.0 to 1 12.0 kg/cm2 (170 psi) 30 HP @ 2400 rpm 10 kgm @ 1600 rpm (72 ft. Ibs. @ 1600 rpm)

Cylinder Head

The cylinder head is made of aluminum alloy with a spherical combustion chamber. The valve guides are press-fit into the

Sheet 1: General Information cylinder head, and retained with a clip flush against the top of the head.

2.

Cylinder Block

The cylinder block is made of cast alloy. The cylinder is intergrally cast with the block (no liner). The crankshaft is a five main bearing, deep-skirted type. The rear seal has an iron core with an X shape cross section that is incorporated in the rear bearing cap.

3.

Crank Mechanism

The pistons are made of aluminum alloy and have an oval taper. The piston pin hole is offset 1 mm which decreases knocking.

The crankshaft is ductile iron, supported by five main bearings. Thrust move-ment is restricted by a thrust bearing cap. The connecting rods have an l-shaped cross section with the large end secured with two bolts and nuts, and the small end has a round bushless hole for the piston pin. Because the pistons are semi-floating, the piston pin is press-fit to the connecting rod, and free-fit at the piston, allowing rotation only between the piston and pin.

4.

Valve Mechanism

The center of the adjusting screw is offset 1 mm on the EX valve so that during operation there is equal contact between the valve and valve seat.

The timing chain is a double row roller type with 90 links. Two timing mark plates serve as the match marks for installing the chain. The camshaft has three supporting journals of the bushless style. The camshaft end play is restricted by a thrust plate which is incorporated between the side of the front journal and the cam sprocket wheel. A match mark is inscribed on the cam sprocket wheel, which is used when installing the timing chain.

5.

Cooling System

The water pump is installed on the timing chain cover. It is driven by a belt from the crankshaft. A wax-type thermostat is used to ensure proper coolant temperature.

6.

Lubrication System

The lubrication system is a full-pressure feeding type, known as a wet-sump type. The oil pump is a trochoid gear type; and the oil filter is a full-flow cartridge type.

7.

Fuel System

On gasoline fueled engines the carburetor is a down-draft, one stage, one barrel and the fuel pump is a mechanical diaphragm type, driven by an eccentric lobe of the camshaft. On LPG fueled engines the carburetor is an all air valve design that uses a pressure drop to draw fuel into the carburetor and does not require a fuel pump. A pneumatic governor is provided, between the carburetor and intake manifold, to automatically control the engine rpm output, and torque. The system is protected by a cyclone type air cleaner.

8.

Electric System

The electric system is 12V, with a 35 amp alternator. The 35 volt alternator is driven by a V-belt.

Sheet 2: Specifications Maintenance

SPECIFICATIONS AND MAINTENANCE INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT OF THE ENGINE Periodic inspection and maintenance is necessary to keep engine functioning and performing at peak efficiency.

For 'regular inspections, visual checking, ordinary tools, and measuring tools including a tester are used. When using any special tester, be sure to understand its proper use. Regarding the inspection and maintenance intervals of each item, refer to the periodic inspection list in Section 8 of this manual.

Item Engine Oil Inspection

Procedure

Value

1.

Oil level should be between F and L 1 L (1.057 qts.)

2.

3.

Oil Change

1.

2.

3.

Oil Filter Replacement

Fuel Filter Replacement

Check each part of the engine for any leakage. Replace or repair the part if there is oil leakage.

Check the engine oil level. It should be between F and L on the dipstick.

Check whether engine oil is deteriorated or dirty. If either condition exists, change the oil To drain the oil remove the drain plug. The engine oil should be replaced after the first 50 hours of operation on new or overhauled engines. Thereafter, the oil should be changed every 300 hours when the truck is operated under normal operating conditions.

Remove the oil cap to fill with new oil.

Use the specified engine oil, classified according to API, DO NOT OVERFILL. Minimum grade SF SAE 10W-30 (all season)

1)

For a new or overhauled engine, replace the oil filter after 50 hours of operation and every 600 hours after that.

1.

Remove the oil filter by using a filter wrench.

2.

Coat the O-ring of the new oil filter with clean engine oil.

3.

Tighten the new filter by hand only. Do not use a filter wrench to tighten.

1) 1.

2.

3.

4.

Replace filter element every 600 hours.

Unscrew retaining ring and remove cover.

Remove filter element and O-ring.

Install new filter element and O-ring into cover.

Screw cover and retaining ring onto filter body. Check for leaks.

Capacity 3.7 L (3.9 qts )

To between F and L on the dipstick.

Position F 3.7 L (3.9 qts )

Sheet 2: Specifications Maintenance Cylinder Head Tightening 1.

2.

For a new or overhauled engine, after 50 hours of operation retorque the cylinder head bolts to specified value.

Retorque in the sequence shown below. Tighten in several increments, not all at once Always adjust the valve clearance after completing this procedure.

Fig. 2-1 Valve Clearance Adjustment

1.

2.

For a new or overhauled engine adjust the valve clearance after the first 50 hours of operation and after every 400 hours or two months of operation afterwards, whichever comes first.

With the piston of the No. 1 cylinder positioned at top dead center, adjust the IN side valves No. 1 and 2 and EX side valve No. 1 and 3. (NOTE: Be sure the rocker arms of all four valves are NOT being lifted up by the cam lobes. If any are lifting, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360°) until the No. 1 cylinder is again at top dead center.)

Fig. 2-2

Tightening torque 774-816 kg. cm.

(59-59 ft. Ibs)

Sheet 2: Specifications Maintenance Valve Clearance Adjustment Continued

3.

For adjustment, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw using a thickness gauge.

NOTE: When the rocker arms are disengaged from the valve stem, the tappet ball is free to rotate within its socket. Being heavier at the top, the ball will turn 180° exposing a spherical surface. When the rocker arms are reinstalled, if the flat surface is not oriented in relation to the valve stem as shown, the valves will not seat, consequently the engine will have little or no compression.

4.

Spark Plug Inspection and Adjustment

1.

2.

Distributor Inspection and Adjustment

Fig. 2-3 Turn the crankshaft one full turn (360°) in a clockwise direction and adjust the remaining valve clearances.

Check for burnt electrode, abnormal burning, damage to the insulate or carbon build up. Clean and regap or replace if faulty.

Inspect the plug gap and adjust if it is not within the specified range.

Perform the following procedures every 200 hours or after one month of operation, whichever one comes first.

1.

Check the cap and rotor for cracks, burning, center carbon wearing or burnt electrode. Replace if any of these conditions are observed.

2.

Check the contact point and point gap. Replace if faulty.

3.

4.

Air Cleaner Element Clean

Replace

Check the dwell angle using a dwell meter.

Check the centrifugal timing and vacuum control operations with a timing light.

1.

Every 100 hours under severe operating conditions or every 200 hours under normal operating conditions, remove the air cleaner cover.

2.

Remove the wing nut to remove the element.

3.

Clean the element by blowing compressed air from the inside. The filter may also be cleaned with a solution of mild soap and water and allowed to air dry.

1.

Replace the filter if it is clogged.

2.

Every 600 hours under severe operating conditions or every 1200 hours under normal operating conditions.

Fig. 2-4

Valve Clearance Hot IN 0.25mm (0.010 in.)

EX 0.30mm (0.012 in.)

Locknut tightening torque 160-210 kg. cm. (12-15 ft. Ibs.)

Spark plug Yale 5174508-00 Plug gap 0.8 ±0.05mm (0.032 ±0.002 in.)

Sheet 2: Specifications Maintenance Ignition Timing Inspection and Adjustment Adjustment Idle Speed Adjustment

1)

Connect a tachometer and a timing light to the engine and run the engine at idle to see if the timing mark groove on the pulley meets the indicator on the timing gear cover.

1.

If adjustment is necessary, loosen the bolt securing the distributor base and adjust the timing by turning the distributor. After adjusting, retighten the bolt.

2.

Recheck timing after tightening bolt.

1) 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Compression Test

Governor Inspection

Connect a tachometer and adjust using the following procedure.

Completely tighten mixture adjusting screw (MAS) and unscrew 1.5 to 2 turns.

Loosen the throttle adjusting screw (TAS) until the engine runs rough.

Adjust the mixture screw until the engine runs smoothly.

Adjust idle by turning the throttle adjusting screw.

Repeat the steps 3 and 4 so that the engine runs smoothly at the specified rpm.

Use the exhaust gas analyzer to see if the CO density is below 4.5%.

If compression drops, causing insufficient output, perform the following procedure.

1.

Be sure battery is fully charged.

2.

Run engine until normal operating temperature is achieved.

3.

Remove plug wires, loosen plugs one turn, reconnect plug wires, run engine, a few moments at 1000 rpm. Then remove all spark plugs.

4.

Remove the primary wire from the ignition coil.

5.

Install a compression gauge in the spark plug hole.

6.

Press the accelerator pedal fully and crank the engine over approximately six revolutions.

7.

Record the value indicated on the gauge.

8.

Use the same procedure to test the remaining cylinders.

9.

Add approximately 1 ounce of oil into each cylinder and crank engine for about ten revolutions.

10. Repeat test for each cylinder. Record test results.

Determine the cause of low compression reading and make necessary repairs.

Idle 600-650 rpm

CO Density less than 4.5%.

1)

1) 1.

Check for maximum rpm without load.

With the engine unloaded, fully open the throttle valve of the carburetor and note the maximum rpm.

1.

2.

Check for damage or cracks. Replace if faulty.

Check the amount of slack. Adjust if it is not within the specified range

1.

Loosen the alternator stop bolt and adjust by moving the alternator.

Adjustment Cooling Fan

1.

Loosen the idler adjusting bolt and adjust by moving the idler pulley.

Replacement

1.

Loosen the belt in the same manner as for adjustment, and replace.

Belts Inspection

Ignition Timing 600 -650 rpm 7°BTDC Gasoline 10°BTDC LPG

Adjustment Alternator

Compression Standard 12.0 kg/cm2 (170 psi @ 300 rpm) Minimum 7.3 kg/cm2 (104 psi ~ 300 rpm)

Maximum rpm Without Load 2, 600 -2, 900 rpm Alternator and Cooling Fan Belt Deflection Amount @ 10 kg.

(22 Ibs.) pressing force.

For a new belt 8-10mm (0.31 -0.38 in.)

For adjustment of older belt 10-12mm (0.38 -0.50 in.)

For a new belt 6-8mm (0.25-0.31 in.)

For adjustment of older belt 8-10mm (0.31 -0.38 in.)

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY(OVERHAUL) ENGINE DISASSEMBLY Precautions for engine disassembly: 1.

2.

Do not damage the parts during disassembly.

After disassembling the following parts (piston ring, connecting rod, valve, valve spring, rocker arm, etc.), arrange the parts in sequence of the disassembled cylinders or apply a distinctive mark.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Remove the alternator and alternator bracket.

Remove the water hoses.

Remove the oil level dipstick.

Mount the engine on the engine stand (special tool 9125483-05) and engine hanger (special tool 9125483-06).

Drain the oil.

Fig. 3-1 6. Remove the cooling fan, cooling fan pulley, water pump pulley and belt.

Fig. 3-2 (1) Loosen the cooling fan bolts.

Fig. 3-3 (2) Loosen the water pump pulley

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair (3) Remove the cooling fan pulley, water pump pulley, and belt after removing the cooling fan.

Fig. 3-4 7. Remove the air cleaner.

Fig. 3-5 8. Remove the intake manifold and carburetor assy and gasket.

Fig. 3-6 9. Remove the distributor and high tension cord.

Fig. 3-7 10. Remove the fuel pump.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-8 11. Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.

Fig. 3-9 12. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.

Fig. 3-10 13. Remove the water pump and gasket

Fig. 3-11 14. Remove the cooling fan bracket and idler assy.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-12 15. Remove the water pump inlet and hose.

Fig. 3-13 16. Remove the oil pressure switch.

Fig. 3-14 17. Remove the cylinder head cover and gasket.

Fig. 3-15 18. Remove the oil seal.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-16 19. Remove the cam lock nut.

1) Prevent the crankshaft from turning by applying an offset wrench onto the crankshaft pulley bolt.

2) Remove the cam lock nut.

Fig. 3-17 20. Remove the distributor drive gear and spacer.

Fig. 3-18 21. Remove the cylinder head bolt below the end of the camshaft.

Fig. 3-19 22. Remove the remaining cylinder head bolts and washers.

Note: Loosen the bolts in the sequence shown in the figure. Loosen maintaining equal tension among the bolts.

Fig. 3-20 23. Remove the rocker arm assy.

Fig. 3-21 24. Remove the camshaft and key.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-22 25. Remove the cylinder head and gasket.

Fig. 3-23 26. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

1) Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.

Fig. 3-24 27. Remove the oil pan.

Fig. 3-25 28. Remove the timing chain cover and gasket.

Fig. 3-26 29. Remove the oil baffle plate from the crankshaft.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-27 30. Remove the oil pump drive chain sprocket.

1) With crankshaft in a stationary position, first straighten the lockwasher and then remove the lock nut.

Fig. 3-28 2) Remove the oil pump drive chain and sprocket.

Fig. 3—29 3) Remove the key from the oil pump shaft.

Fig. 3-30 31. Remove the timing chain and sprocket.

1) Remove the timing chain and sprocket.

Fig. 3-31

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair 2) Remove the key.

Fig. 3-32 32. Remove the chain guide (1), chain adjuster (2), and vibra-tion damper (3).

Fig. 3-33 33. Remove the gasket.

Fig. 3-34 34. Remove the oil strainer and oil pump cover assy.

Fig. 3-35 35. Remove the oil pump shaft, outer rotor, and fuel pump push rod.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-36 36. Remove the bearing caps and connecting rod bearings.

Fig. 3-37 37. Remove the pistons, connecting rods, and connecting rod bearings.

1) Using a hammer handle, push the piston and connecting rod assy out the cylinder head side.

Note: Temporarily install each cap back on the connecting rod that it came oft and lay the parts out neatly in order for each combustion changer.

Fig. 3-38 38. Remove the main bearing cap and oil seal.

1) Remove the main bearing cap by using the main bearing cap puller (special tool: 9125483-12) as shown in the illustration.

Fig. 3-39 39. Remove the main bearings and thrust washer.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-40 40. Remove the oil seal.

Fig. 3-41 41. Remove the crankshaft.

Fig. 3-42 42. Remove the bearings and thrust washer.

Fig. 3-43 43. Disassemble the piston and connecting rod assy.

1) Remove the piston pin by using the piston pin setting tool (9125483-21 ) as shown in the figure at right.

2) Remove the connecting rod from the piston.

3) Remove the piston rings using a piston ring tool (commercial product.)

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-44 44. Disassemble the cylinder head assy.

1) Compress the valve springs using the valve spring lifter & pivot (9125483-01 & 9125483-19) and remove the valve spring retainer.

2) Remove the valve spring seal, spring, and valve.

Fig. 3-45

ENGINE INSPECTION AND REPAIR Precautions for engine inspection and repair 1.

Before inspection, clean each part to remove debris (gasket chips, dust, oil, carbon, and sludge).

2.

Do not damage the aluminum alloy connecting and sliding parts (cylinder head, rocker arms, and pistons).

Cylinder Head 1.

Condition Inspection Check the cylinder head for any cracks or damage. Repair or replace if either condition is observed.

Fig. 3-46

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair 2.

Distortion inspection 1) Measure bottom surface head distortion with a straight-edge and thickness gauge. Positions are shown in the figure at right. Distortion limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

Fig. 3-47 2) If distortion exceeds acceptable limits, grind surface or replace. Grind limit: 0.20mm (0.008 in.) Standard cylinder head height 90 45 -90.55 mm (3.561 -3.565 in.)

Fig. 3-48 Valve 1.

Contact surface inspection 1) Check the valve face for wear or damage. Repair with a valve refacer if wear is minimal.

2) Inspect the thickness of the valve head. Replace it if it is less than the allowed limits. Thickness limit of the valve head IN 1.0mm (0.039 in.)

EX 1.0mm (0.039 in.)

Fig. 3-49 2.

Stem wear inspection Replace the valve if the valve stem is bent or the diameter of the valve stem is smaller than the allowed limits.

Limit of valve stem diameter IN 7.980mm (0.314 in.)

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair EX 7.975mm (0.314 in.)

Fig. 3-50 Valve Guide 1.

Inspection of valve and valve guide clearance: Measure the difference between the inside diameter of the valve guide and valve stem diameter. Replace if it exceeds the specified limits.

Clearance limit:

0.20mm (0.008 in.)

Fig. 3-51 2.

Valve guide replacement 1) Removal 1.

2.

Pull the valve seal out from the valve guide using pliers.

Drive the valve guide out the opposite side of the combustion chamber using the valve guide installer (special tool 9125483-18).

Fig. 3-52 2) Installation 1.

Fasten the clip on the valve guide. Use the valve guide installer (9125483-18), to drive the guide from the opposite side of the combustion chamber until the clip just comes into contact with the cylinder head.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-53 Notes: 1.

2.

3.

Recheck the clearance between the valve and guide after replacing the valve guide.

Attach the valve seal after inspecting.

There is a difference in the valve guide shape between the IN and EX sides. When replacing the valve guide, use the correct guide for the side, as shown in illustration.

Fig. 3-54 Valve Spring 1.

Free length inspection Measure the free length of the valve spring. Replace if the measured value is less than the allowable limits.

Free length limit:

42.0mm (1.654 in.)

Fig. 3-55 2.

Squareness Inspection.

Measure the squareness of the valve spring. Replace if he measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Squareness limit: 1.52mm (0.06 in.)

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-56 1.

Contact surface inspection 1) Check the valve face contact surface for wear or damage If there is roughness, grind the contact surface with a valve seat cutter or a valve seat grinder to the specified configuration.

Note: While grinding, continually check the valve contact area and width.

Fig. 3-57 2) Check the valve contact area. The contact area should be at the center of the valve face.

3) Check that the valve fits the valve seat properly.

Fig. 3-58 2.

Inspection of valve seat depth: Insert the appropriate washer on the valve spring seat if the valve seat depth is between 0.5 and 1.5mm (0.02 and 0.06 in) more than standard. Replace the cylinder head when it is over 1.5mm (0.06 in.) beyond standard.

Standard "L" dimension (valve seat depth): IN 39.5mm (1.55 in.)

EX 39.5mm (1.55 in.)

Limit 41.0mm (1.61 in.)

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-59 Camshaft 1.

Camshaft wear inspection: Measure the cam height. Replace if the measured value is smaller than the allowable limit.

Standard cam height: IN 44.112mm (1.7367 in.)

EX 44.112mm (1.7367 in.)

Cam height limit: IN 43.912mm (1.7288 in.)

EX 43.912mm (1.7288 in.)

Fig. 3-60 2.

Journal wear inspection: Measure journal wear at the four points shown in the figure to the right (two points, front and rear in the A-B direction).

Replace camshaft if it is not within the allowa-ble limits.

Journal out-of-round limit:

0.5mm (0.02 in.)

Standard journal diameter Front & Rear journals 41.949 -41.965mm (1.6515 -1.6522 in.)

Center positions (three) 41.919 -41.935mm (1.6504 -1.6510 in.)

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-61 3.

Shaft deflection (run-out) inspection: Place the front and rear journals on the V blocks to meas-ure shaft deflection (run-out). If it is not within the allowa-ble limits, replace it.

Camshaft deflection limit: 0.03mm (0.001 in.)

Fig. 3-62 4.

Oil clearance inspection: After tightening the rocker arm support at a specified tor-que, measure oil clearance on the camshaft bearing cap using the plasti-gauge. Replace the complete cylinder head and camshaft bearing caps if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Torque for the camshaft bearing cap: 775 to 825 kg cm (56 to 60 ft. Ibs.) Standard oil clearance: Front and rear: 0.035 -0.076mm (0.0014 -0.0030 in.)

Center: 0.065 -0.106mm (0.0026 -0.0042 in.)

Oil Clearance limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

Note: Set the plastic gauge in line with the direction of the shaft.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-63 5.

End play inspection: Measure end play with a dial indicator gauge after tight-ening the locknut to the specified torque. Replace the thrust plate if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Locknut tightening torque: 710-800 kg. cm (51-58 ft. Ibs.) Camshaft end play limit: 0.20mm (0.008 in.)

Fig. 3—64 Rocker Arm 1.

Condition inspection 1) Check each part of the rocker arm assy for any cracks or damage. Replace if either condition is evident.

2) Check to see if the holes of the rocker arm and shaft are clogged. If they are clogged replace the arm.

2.

Measure the clearance between the rocker arm and shaft with a dial indicator gauge. Replace the rocker arm and shaft if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Rocker arm and shaft clearance limit: 0.10mm (0.004 in.)

Cylinder Block 1.

Condition inspection: Check the cylinder block for any cracks or damage. Replace the cylinder block if either condition is evident.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-65

Fig. 3-66

Fig. 3-67 2.

Cylinder block top surface distortion inspection: 1) Measure cylinder block top surface distortion with a straightedge and thickness gauge, at the posi-tions shown in the figure.

Replace or grind the cylinder block if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

2) Grind with a ridge reamer if the top end of the cylinder wall is worn.

3.

Cylinder wear inspection: Measure the cylinder diameter at the six points shown in the figure to the right. Wear amount is the difference between the maximum and minimum diameter. Bore the cylinder if the wear amount exceeds the allowable limits.

Cylinder bore standard value: 77.00 -77.019mm (3.0315 -3.0322 in.)

Cylinder bore wear limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

Difference between cylinders: 0.019mm (0.0007 in.)

Note: Boring must be done in relation to the available sizes of over-sized (OS) pistons. Oversize pistons are available in 0.25 and

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair 0.50mm (0.01 and 0.02 in.) sizes.

Fig. 3—68 Piston and Piston Ring 1.

Piston condition inspection: Check the outside surface of the piston for any scoring or flaws. Replace the piston if either condition is evident.

Fig. 3-69

Fig. 3-70 2.

Piston ring condition inspection: Check the piston rings for damage, abnormal abrasion, or breaks. Replace the piston ring if any of the above conditions are noted.

Fig. 3—71

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair 3.

Piston wear inspection: Measure the piston outside diameter to determine cylinder clearance.

Standard piston outside diameter: 76.954 -76.974mm (3.0297 -3.0305 in.)

Piston and cylinder clearance limits: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

Notes: 1.

2.

The outside diameter of the piston 16.5mm (0.65 in.) should be measured below the oil ring groove.

Always replace the piston ring when replacing the piston.

Oversize piston ring: 0.25, 0.50mm (0.01, 0.02 in.)

Fig. 3—72 4.

Piston ring end gap inspection: 1) Place the piston ring in the cylinder and use an inverted piston to push it down into the cylinder.

2) Use a thickness gauge to measure the piston ring end gap.

End gap clearance: 1.0mm (0.04 in.)

Fig. 3-73 5.

Piston ring wear inspection: Measure the clearance between the piston ring and ring groove.

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair Clearance limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

Note: Clearance measurement must be done around the en-tire circumference of the ring groove.

Fig. 3-74 Connecting Rod 1.

Condition inspection: Check the large and small ends of the connecting rod for any cracks or damage. Replace the connecting rod if either condition is noted.

Fig. 3-75 2.

Misalignment inspection: Check to see if the connecting rod is bent or twisted by using a connecting rod aligner. Repair with a machine press or replace if the value exceeds the allowable limits.

Connecting rod misalignment limit: 0.04mm (0.0016 in.) or less for each 1 00mm (3.94 in.) length.

Fig. 3-76 3.

Oil clearance inspection:

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair After tightening the connecting rod cap at the specified torque, measure the oil clearance using a plasti-gauge. If the measured value exceeds the allowable limits, replace the connecting rod or grind the journal so that an undersize bearing may be used.

Connecting rod cap tightening torque: 300-350 kg cm (22-25 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-77 Standard oil clearance: 0.023-0.064mm (0.0009-0.0025 in.)

Oil clearance limit: 0.10mm (0.004 in.)

Undersize connecting rod bearing sizes: 0.25, 0.50, 0.75mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

4.

End play inspection: Measure the end play with a thickness gauge. Replace the connecting rod or crankshaft if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

End play limit:

0.030mm (0.012 in.)

Fig. 3-78 Valve Seal Replace the valve seal using the following procedures.

1.

Remove the valve seal by clamping and pulling it with pliers.

2.

Press valve seal into the valve guide by using the valve seal pusher (9125483-20).

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair

Fig. 3-79 Crankshaft 1.

Condition Inspection: 1) Check the crankshaft for any cracks or damage. Replace the crankshaft if faulty.

2) Check to see that the oil ports are not clogged. If clogged, remove the clog by using compressed air or a wire.

Fig. 3-80 2.

Crankshaft deflection (run-out) inspection: Measure shaft deflection using two V-blocks and a dial gauge. Replace if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Crankshaft deflection limit: 0.04mm (0.0016 in.)

Fig. 3-81 3.

Crankshaft wear inspection: 1) Measure journal and pin wear at the four points shown in the figure (two points, front and rear, in A and B directions).

Standard main journal diameter: 49.938 -49.956 mm (1.9661 -1.9668 in.)

Standard crank pin diameter:

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair 39.940 -39.956 mm (1.5724 -1.5731 in.)

Oval limit:

0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

Fig. 3-82 2) Grind the crankshaft to correspond to the under-size bearing if irregular wear exceeds the allowable limits.

Grinding limit: 0.75mm Undersize bearing:

(0.03 in.)

0.25, 0.50, 0.75mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

Fig. 3-83 Note: Be careful not to grind into the journal corner radius when grinding the journal and pin. (R dimension, pointed out by arrows in illustration).

Fig. 3-84 4.

Crankshaft oil clearance inspection: After tightening the main bearing cap at the specified torque, measure the oil clearance with the plasti-guage. If the oil clearance measured value exceeds the allowable limits, replace or grind the journal and use an undersize bearing of the appropriate size.

Main bearing cap tightening torque: 660-710 kg cm (48-51 ft. Ibs.) Standard oil clearance: 0.023 0.064mm (0.0009-0.0025 in.)

Oil clearance limit:

Sheet 3: Engine Overhaul or Repair 0.08mm (0.003 in.)

Undersize bearings: 0.25, 0.50, 0.75mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

Note: Install the main bearing cap in accordance with the cap numbers and arrow indicated on the cap.

5.

Measure the crankshaft end play using a dial gauge. Grind the crankshaft and use an over-size thrust bearing it the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Standard end play: 0.08 -0.242mm (0.0031 - 0.0095 in.)

End play limit: 0.30mm

(0.012 in.)

Over-size thrust bearings: 0.25, 0.50, 0.75mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

Fig. 3-85

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine ENGINE ASSEMBLY Precautions for Engine Assembly 1. Clean parts to be assembled.

2. Clean the sliding and rotating parts with engine oil.

3. Replace gaskets and oil seal.

4. During assembly, check the gap on the important parts, end play, oil clearance and distortion.

5. Tighten bolt to the specified torque.

6. Replace plain bearings if faulty such as peeling, burning or melting.

1.

Assemble the piston and connecting rod assy.

1) Align the oil port on the large end of the connec-ting rod with the "F" mark on the piston.

2) Coat both the outside surface and the small end of the connecting rod with engine oil.

3) Set the piston pin using special tool: 9125483-21.

Fig. 3—86 4) Press the top of the installer (part of special tool 9125483-21, identified in figure 3-87 as part number 49 8134 042) to insert the piston pin.

Note: Insert the piston pin from the side of the piston marked " F".

5) To set the piston pin at the specified position, in-sert the guide (part of special tool 9125483-21, identified in figure 3-87 as part number 49 8134 044) until the bottom end reaches the bottom of the block (part of special tool 9125483-21, iden-tified in figure 3-87 as part number 49 8134 041).

Fig. 3—87 6) Installation force should be 500 to 1500 kg. (1100 to 3300 Ibs.). Replace the piston pin or connecting rod if more force than this is required.

7) Inspect the swing torque of the connecting rod.

1.

Lift the large end of the connecting rod as shown in the figure and release it. Make sure the large end swings down freely.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-88 2.

2.

Replace the piston and piston pin if the rod does not swing freely.

Assemble the cylinder head.

1) 2) 3) 4) 5)

Install the lower valve spring seat.

Install the valve.

Install the valve spring.

Install the upper valve spring seat.

Install the valve retainer by compressing the spring with the valve spring lifter & pivot (special tool 9125483-01 & 9125483-19)

Fig. 3—89 3.

Install the crankshaft in the engine block.

1) Install the main bearing in the engine block.

Note: When installing the bearings there must be no oil or dirt deposits on the back side of the bearings.

2) Install the crankshaft.

3) Install the oil seal on the crankshaft.

Fig. 3—90 4) After installing the thrust bearing and main bear-ings, tighten the bearing caps to the specified torque.

Main bearing cap tightening torque:

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine 660-710 kg cm (48-51 ft. Ibs.) Note: The oil groove side of the thrust bearing must con-tact the crankshaft.

Fig. 3-91 5) Insert the oil seal into the groove of the rear main bear-ing cap.

Fig. 3-92 4.

Install the pistons in the cylinder block.

1) Insert the pistons and connecting rods by using a piston ring compressor (commercial product).

Notes: 1.

Position the "F" mark on the piston so that it faces the front of the cylinder block.

2.

Coat the inside cylinder walls, outside surface of the piston and each ring with engine oil.

Fig. 3-93 2) After installing the connecting rod bearing, tighten the cap to the specified torque.

300-350 kg cm (22-25 ft. Ibs.) Note: When installing the connecting rod cap, align the match mark of the cap with that of the connecting rod.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-94

Fig. 3-95 5.

Install the oil pump 1) Install the fuel pump push rod in the cylinder block, then install the oil pump shaft and rotor assy.

2) Install the oil pump cover and tighten the bolts.

Note: When installing the oil pump shaft and rotor assy, position the marks on the inner and outer rotors to the outward side.

Fig. 3-96 6.

Install the gasket, then install the vibration damper and chain guide strap on the cylinder block.

Fig. 3-97 7.

Install the chain adjuster: Release the small ratchet lever and push in the slipper head of the chain adjuster, then install the chain adjuster in the cylinder block by locking the chain with the chain adjuster guide (special tool: 91 25483-22).

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-98 8.

Install the timing chain and sprocket.

1) Place the timing chain on the sprockets. Align the timing marks.

2) Install the timing chain and sprockets on the engine then install the crankshaft key.

Fig. 3-99 3) Secure the timing chain to the camshaft sprocket with wire so that the positions of the chain and sprocket do not move.

Fig. 3-100 9.

Install the oil pump chain and sprocket.

1) Install the key in the oil pump shaft.

2) Install the chain and sprocket.

3) Install the washer and lock nut, and tighten the lock nut to the specified torque, then bend the locking washer.

Tightening torque: 300-350 kg cm (22-25 ft. Ibs.)

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-101 10. Install the buffer plate.

Fig. 3-102 11. Install the timing chain cover and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

Torque specifications: 190-260 kg cm (14-19 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-103 12. Install the oil strainer on the oil pump cover, through the gasket. Fasten the connector bolts.

Note: When fastening the connector bolts, do not forget the washers.

Fig. 3-104

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine 13. Install the oil pan 1) Wipe oil deposits off the oil pan mounting surface.

2) Apply an even bead of sealant from 2 to 4mm (1/8 to 3/16 inch) thick on the inside edge of the oil pan, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 70-100 kg cm (5-7 ft. Ibs.) Note: Overlap the sealant, and tighten within 30 minutes. Re-tighten after sealant cures.

Fig. 3-105 14. Install the fly wheel: Insure that the crankshaft does not move when tighten-ing the bolts to the specific torque.

Tightening torque: 830-900 kg cm (60-65 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-106 15. Install the crankshaft pulley: Insure that the crankshaft does not move when tighten-ing the bolts to the specified torque.

Tightening Torque: 1600-1700 kg cm (116-123 ft. Ibs.) 16. Install the cylinder head 1) Using a cloth, wipe off any dirt and oil on the top of the cylinder block.

2) Put a thin coat of sealant around the joint between the cylinder block and chain cover and install the new gasket.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine 3) Place the cylinder head assy on the gasket.

Fig. 3-107 17. Install the camshaft.

1) Install the key on the camshaft.

2) Remove the wiring securing the chain and sprocket and lift the sprocket so there is no slack in the chain.

3) Insert the camshaft into the sprocket.

4) Turn the crankshaft so that the dowel pin faces upward.

Fig. 3-108 18. Install the rocker arm and shaft assy.

1) Place the rocker arm and shaft assy. on the cylinder head, then tighten the mounting bolts in the sequence noted in the figure. Tighten the bolts in a repeated sequence to obtain equal tension among the bolts.

Tightening torque: 870-930 kg cm (63-67 ft. Ibs.) Notes: 1. Coat the cam shaft journals with engine oil.

2. Coat the threads of the head bolts with engine oil

Fig. 3-109 19. Place the cylinder head bolts in position. Join the cylinder head to the block and timing chain cover by tightening the bolts

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 190-260 kg cm (14-19 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-110 20. Install the spacer and distributor drive gear: Install the spacer and distributor drive gear. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque. Use a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to prevent the drive gear from turning.

Torque specification: 710-800 kg cm (51-58 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-111 21. Adjust the valve clearance NOTE: When the rocker arms are disengaged from the valve stem, the tappet ball is free to rotate within its sock-et. Being heavier at the top, the ball will turn 180°ex-posing a spherical surface. When the rocker arms are reinstalled, if the flat surface is not oriented in relation to the valve stem, the valves will not seat, consequently the engine will have little or no compression.

1) Adjust the valve clearances at the intake side No. 1 and No. 2, and exhaust side No. 1 and No. 3 with the No. 1 piston at top dead center.

2) Rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation and adjust the remaining valve clearances, when each piston reaches top dead center.

IN: 0.25mm (0.010 in.)

EX: 0.30mm (0.012 in.)

CAUTION: The valve clearance will have to be rechecked after the engine has been reassembled, running and brought up to normal operating temperatures.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-112 22. Install the cylinder head cover 1) Set the gasket on the cylinder head cover.

2) Place a thin coat of silicon sealant on the semicircular oil seal of the cylinder head and position the oil seal in place.

3) Install the cylinder head cover and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

Torque specifications: 20-30 kg cm (18-26 in. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-113 23. To adjust timing chain tension: 1) Remove the two blind plugs and the blind bolt.

2) Loosen the chain guide fixing bolt through the blind plug hole.

3) Tighten the chain guide tension bolt while press-ing with a force of approximately 1 kg. (2.2 Ibs.) using a screwdriver, through the blind bolt hole.

4) Remove the chain adjuster guide tool and install the blind cover and gasket.

5) Install the plug and bolt.

Fig. 3-114 24. Install the oil filter and pressure switch.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine 1) Install the oil pressure switch.

Tightening torque: 120-180 kg cm (9-1 3 ft. Ibs.) 2) Coat the oil filter O-ring with engine oil and tighten by hand. Do not use a filter wrench.

Fig. 3-115 25. Install the fuel pump through the insulator gasket.

Note: Coat the contacting surfaces of the fuel pump cam and push rod with engine oil.

Fig. 3-116 26. Install the intake manifold and carburetor as an assembly, Using a new gasket. Tighten to specified torque.

Tightening torque: 190-260 kg cm.

(14-19 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-117 27. Install the distributor 1) Coat the O-ring and gear with engine o'

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine 2) Align the match marks of the distributor housing and drive gear, and install the distributor in the opening of the chain cover, ensuring that the mark is facing upward.

3) Tighten the distributor bolt.

Fig. 3-118 4) Install the distributor cap and high-tension wire.

28. Install the exhaust manifold and gasket and tighten to the specified torque.

Torque specifications: 190-260 kg cm (14-19 ft. Ibs.)

Fig. 3-119 29. Install the water pump, water pump inlet, and bypass pipe, using new gaskets for the water pump and pump inlet.

30. Install the cooling fan bracket and idler assy.

Fig. 3-120 31. Install the air cleaner and hose.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-121 32. Install the water pump pulley.

1) Place the water pump pulley in position and tem-porarily tighten the bolts.

Fig. 3-122 33. Install the cooling fan pulley and belt.

1) Install the cooling fan pulley and install the fan belt in position.

2) Install the cooling fan and temporarily tighten the bolts.

3) Adjust the belt slack with the idler pulley.

4) Tighten the bolts securing the water pump pulley and cooling fan.

5) Readjust the belt slack.

Fig. 3-123 34. Remove the engine from the engine stand and install the alternator bracket, oil level dipstick and mounting bracket.

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine

Fig. 3-124 FAULT DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTION PROBLEM Insufficient Output or Insufficient Acceleration

Excessive Oil Consumption

POSSIBLE CAUSE OF PROBLEM Insufficient compression pressure Improper valve clearance ∗ Pressure leakage at the valve seat ∗ Valve seal seizure ∗ Weak or broken valve spring ∗ Burnt cylinder head or head gasket ∗ Cracking or distortion of the cylinder head ∗ Frozen, broken or worn piston ring(s) ∗ Cracked or worn piston(s) ∗ Improper operation of fuel system Improper operation of ignition system Cylinder Block Worn piston ring or piston ring groove, or ∗ frozen piston ring Wearing of the piston or cylinder ∗

CORRECTION Adjust Repair (Valve Fit) Replace Replace Replace Replace or Repair Replace Replace Refer to 6-12 Refer to 7-16 Replace Replace or Repair

Cylinder Head ∗ ∗ Difficulty Starting Engine

Abnormal Combustion

Defective valve seal Worn valve stem or valve guide

Replace Replace Repair

Oil Leakage Defective operation of the engine ∗ ∗ ∗

Burnt valve(s) Worn piston, piston ring or cylinder Burnt cylinder head or head gasket

Replace Replace Replace

Improper operation of fuel system Improper operation of electrical system Improper operation of the engine

Refer 6-1 2 Refer 7-1 6

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Adjust Replace Replace Remove

Improper valve clearance Sticking or burnt valve(s) Weak or broken valve spring Carbon deposits on combustion chamber

Improper operation of fuel system Improper operation of ignition system

Refer to 6-12 Refer to 7-16

FAULT DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTION PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSE OF PROBLEM

CORRECTION

Sheet 4: Reassembling/Maintaining Engine Improper Idling

Improper operation of the engine ∗ ∗

Engine Noise

Improper valve clearance Improper contact of the valve and valve seat

Adjust Repair or Replace

Cylinder head gasket leaking

Replace

Improper operation of fuel system

Refer to 6-12

Improper operation of ignition system Improper arrangement of the crankshaft and bearings

Refer to 7-16

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Repair or Replace Replace Repair or Replace Repair or Replace Replace

Too much oil clearance at the main bearings Seized or melted main bearing(s) Too much crankshaft end play Too much oil clearance at the connecting rod bearing Seized or melted connecting rod bearing(s)

Improper operation of the piston ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Worn cylinder Worn piston and/or piston pin Seized piston Damaged or frozen piston ring Bent connecting rod

Replace Replace Replace Replace Replace

Improper valve operation and timing ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Too much valve clearance Broken valve spring Too much clearance between the valve stem and guide Improper lubrication of the rocker arm

Adjust Replace Replace Replace

Others ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Defective water pump bearing Improper tension of the alternator V-belt or weak V-belt Defective alternator bearing Exhaust gas leakage Improper timing chain tension Improper tension of fan V-belt or weak V-belt Broken fan or idler pulley

Replace Adjust Replace Repair Adjust and Replace Adjust and Replace Replace

Sheet 5: Lubrication System

LUBRICATION SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS Total oil capacity Oil pan capacity Oil pressure Oil pump type Oil filter Oil pressure warning lamp

3.7 L (3.9 qts ) 3.0 L (3.2 qts.)

Over 3.0 kg/cm2 (43 PSI) at 2400 rpm Trochoid type Full flow with paper filter 0.4 kg/cm2 (5.7 PSI)

Fig. 4—1

OIL PRESSURE TEST 1) Remove the oil pressure switch and install an oil pressure gauge (special tool: 9125483-40).

2) After warming up the engine, read the gauge while operating engine at 2400 rpm.

Oil pressure: 3 kg/cm2 or more at 2400 rpm 43 PSI or more at 2400 rpm

Fig. 4—2

OIL PUMP DISSASSEMBLY 1) Bend back the tab of the lock washer (1) and remove the lock nut (2).

2) Remove the sprocket (3).

3) Remove the bolts and remove the strainer (4) and gasket (5).

Sheet 5: Lubrication System 4) Remove the key (6).

5) Remove the bolts and remove the oil pump cover (7).

6) Remove the drive shaft (8) and outer rotor (9).

7) Remove the split pin (10) to remove the spring seat (11), pressure spring (12), and control plunger (13) from the pump cover.

NOTE: When removing the split pin, manually block the plunger insert port to prevent the spring from coming out.

Fig. 4-3

OIL PUMP INSPECTION 1) Replace if the oil strainer wire net or pipe is heavily damaged, or if there are any cracks on the feed pipe.

2) Inspect the teeth of the sprocket. Replace if damaged.

Fig. 4-4 3) Measure the clearance of the outer rotor and inner rotor. Replace if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Clearance limit: 0.25mm (0.010 in.)

Sheet 5: Lubrication System Fig. 4-5 4) Use a thickness gauge to measure the clearance between the outer rotor and body. Replace if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Clearance limit: 0.3mm (0.012 in.)

Fig. 4-6 5) Place a straightedge along the rotor contact portion of the oil pump cover and measure the clearance between the straightedge and cover with a thick-ness gauge. Replace if the measured value ex-ceeds the allowable limits.

Clearance limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

Fig. 4-7 6) Make sure that the pressure control plunger moves smoothly within the pump cover and check that the pressure spring is not weak. Replace if defective.

Fig. 4-8

OIL PUMP REASSEMBLY Reverse assembly procedures, using care on the follow-ing points.

1) Install the inner and outer rotors with the match mark positioned toward the pump cover.

2) Use a new gasket.

Sheet 5: Lubrication System

Fig. 4-9 OiI Filter 1) Replace the oil filter at the following intervals.

For a new vehicle: Every 50 hours.

Following replacement: For a new or overhauled engine after the first 50 hours. Thereafter, every 600 hours or three months which ever comes first.

2) Use an oil filter wrench to remove the old oil filter.

3) Installation Coat the oil filter gasket with fresh engine oil and install the filter. Hand tighten the filter. Do not use a filter wrench to tighten.

NOTE: After installation, start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Fig. 4-10

Fig. 4-11

FAULT DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTION

Sheet 5: Lubrication System PROBLEM Oil leakage

Low oil pressure

Warning lamp goes on while engine is operating

POSSIBLE CAUSE OF PROBLEM Drain plug loose or defective gasket ∗ Oil pressure switch loose or damaged ∗ Oil filter loose ∗ Defective gasket between the oil pan and cylinder block ∗ Timing chain cover gasket or cylinder head gasket damaged ∗ Faulty gaskets or seals between parts ∗ Timing chain cover, cylinder head cover, or oil pan damaged ∗ Oil leakage ∗ Low oil level ∗ Oil pump rotor worn or damaged ∗ Plunger (in oil pump) worn, stuck, or weak spring ∗ Oil strainer clogged ∗ Insufficient clearance between the main bearing and connecting rod ∗ bearing Faulty oil pressure switch ∗ Low oil pressure ∗ Faulty electrical system ∗

CORRECTION Tighten or Replace ∗ Tighten or Replace ∗ Tighten ∗ Replace ∗ Replace ∗ Replace ∗ Replace ∗ See above ∗ Add oil ∗ Replace ∗ Replace ∗ Clean ∗ Repair ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Replace See above Repair

Sheet 6: Cooling System

COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS Cooling method Cooling water capacity Thermostat

Initial opening temperature Full-opening temperature Full-opening lift

Water pump type Cooling fan Number of blades x outside diameter Fan belt tension (pressing force: 10 kg) (22 Ibs.)

Water-cooled, V-belt driven pump 5.5 liters (6 quarts) (For engine only) 82°+/- 1.5°C 180°+/- 3°F 95°C 203°F 8.5mm (0.33 in.) or more Centrifugal type 6 x380mm 6 x 15 in.

6mm (.25 in.) maximum deflection

THERMOSTAT 1.

Removal 1) Remove the two bolts and remove the thermostat elbow (1).

2) Remove the gasket (2) and remove the thermostat (3).

Fig. 5-1 2.

Inspection 1) Visually check the sealing of the thermostat valve. Replace the thermostat if it does not properly seat.

2) Put the thermostat and a the thermometer into water. Raise the temperature of water gradually and measure the temperatures of valve initial opening and full-opening, and full-opening lift. Replace if the measured value differs considerably from the stan-dard value mentioned below.

Initial opening temperature: 82°±1.5°C 180°±3°F Full-opening temperature: 95°C 203°F Lifting amount (full-open): 8.5mm (0.33 in.) or more

Sheet 6: Cooling System

Fig. 5-2 3.

Installation Reverse procedure using information following.

1) Use a new gasket.

2) After installing the thermostat, start the engine and check to see that there are no water leaks at the thermostat cover.

WATER PUMP 1.

Disassembly 1) Pull out the pulley boss by using the bearing separator (9125483-23), a press, and an iron rod.

Fig. 5-3 2) Remove the snap ring.

Fig. 5-4 3) Remove the impeller from the shaft using an iron rod and press as shown in the figure.

Sheet 6: Cooling System

Fig. 5-5 4) Remove the baffle plate by prying and lifting with a screwdriver.

NOTE: Pry equally around the baffle plate.

Fig. 5-6 5) Remove the dust seal plate.

Fig. 5-7 6) Remove the snap ring (1 ) and washer (2).

Fig. 5-8 7) Remove the bearings and spacer from the shaft by using an iron rod and press as shown in the figure.

Sheet 6: Cooling System

Fig. 5-9 8) Remove the seal from the water pump body by using an appropriate size piece of pipe.

Fig. 5-10 9) Remove the seal from the impeller by using a screwdriver to pry it out.

Fig. 5-11 2. Reassembly 1) Install a new seal in the impeller.

Fig. 5-12 2) Install a new seal in the pump body using an appropriate size pipe.

Sheet 6: Cooling System

Fig. 5-13 3) Place the snap ring and washer on the shaft and then install the bearing by using a hydraulic press and a pipe as shown in the figure.

NOTE: Continue pressing until there is no clearance between the bearing and washer.

Fig. 5-1 4 4) Insert the spacer onto the shaft and fit another bear-ing using the hydraulic press.

NOTES: 1. Install the bearing in the direction shown in the figure.

2. Continue pressing until there is no clearance between the spacer and bearing.

Fig 5-15 5) Install the dust seal plate on the shaft, then tap the baffle plate with an appropriate size pipe.

NOTE: 1.

Tap equally around the pipe so that the baf-fle plate is not damaged.

Sheet 6: Cooling System

Fig 5-16 6) Fit the shaft assembly into the pump body using an appropriate size pipe.

NOTES: 1.

Place the pipe in contact with inner rotor of the bearing.

2.

Continue pressing up to 2 tons.

Fig 5-17 3.

When fitting the shaft assembly into the body, apply grease in 3 places: 1 ) space between the two ball bear-ings, 2) between the ball bearing and water baffle plate, 3) between the ball bearing and dust seal plate.

Fig. 5-18 4.

Fit the pulley boss onto the shaft by using using the hydraulic press.

NOTE: Continue pressing until the pulley boss is flush with the shaft.

Sheet 6: Cooling System

Fig. 5-19 5.

Fit the impeller onto the shaft by using a hydraulic press.

NOTE: Continue pressing until the end of the impeller is flush with the shaft.

Fig. 5-20

FAULT DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTION PROBLEM Coolant leakage

Corrosion Overheating

Over-cooling

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

POSSIBLE CAUSE OF PROBLEM Radiator core joint damage Coolant leakage at the radiator hose and heater hose Coolant leakage at water temperature switch Defective seal (water pump) Loose or damaged thermostat elbow or gasket Cylinder head loose Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder block cracked Cylinder head cracked Foreign matter entering the coolant Coolant path clogged Improper operation of the thermostat Radiator fins clogged Improper operation of the water pump Insufficient coolant quantity Improper operation of the thermostat

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

CORRECTION Replace Repair or Replace Repair or replace Replace Repair or Replace Retighten Replace Replace Replace Clean Clean Replace Clean Repair and Replace Add coolant Replace

Sheet 7: Fuel System

FUEL SYSTEM GENERAL The fuel is drawn from the tank, through a filter, by the suction of the fuel pump. From the pump, fuel is fed under pressure to the float chamber of the carburetor. Engine vacuum draws fresh air through an air cleaner to the carburetor, where it is mixed with the fuel. The fuel/air mixture is then drawn into the engine through the intake manifold. A governor is mounted between the carburetor and the intake manifold, and is designed to prevent engine over-run and limit maximum engine rpm. The carburetor is equipped with a slow fuel solenoid to prevent dieseling when the engine is shut off.

Fig. 6-1

AIR CLEANER General The air cleaner is equipped with a cyclone type dust sepa-rator having a set of turbine-like blades around the outer circumference. The blades force incoming air to circu-late around the filter element. Centrifugal force from the circulating motion forces the dust in the air to the out-side of the steel canister, where it drops down to the dust collector. The fresh air is then drawn inward by the en-gine vacuum, through the paper filter element.

Inspection, cleaning, and replacement 1.

Check the element for any damage or clogging. Replace if faulty.

Air cleaner cleaning interval: Every 200 hours or every month, or whichever comes first, or every 100 hours in areas where there is a lot of dust.

Element replacement interval: Every 1200 hours or every six months, whichever comes first, or every 600 hours or every month in areas where there is a lot of dust.

2) Clean the element by blowing air from the inside of the element outward. At the same time remove any dust from the dust pan. The element can be cleaned in water. It is recommended to clean it in mild detergent.

Fig. 6-2

Sheet 7: Fuel System

Fig. 6-3

MANIFOLD Inspection 1) Measure the distortion of the cylinder head contact surfaces of the intake and exhaust manifolds with a thickness gauge.

Replace if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Distortion limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

FUEL PUMP Outlet port inspection 1) Remove the fuel outlet hose on the carburetor side and install a fuel pressure gauge (0-1 kg/cm2 range) (0-15 PSI range).

2) Check fuel pressure while idling the engine. Replace if necessary.

Fuel pressure:

0.2 -0.27 kg/cm2 (3 -4 PSI)

Fig. 6-4

CARBURETOR Specifications Model Main jet Main air bleed Slow jet Slow air bleed Float level

Nippon Kika Co. , Ltd. #1 18 #50 #48 #170 15.5mm (0.61 in.) from the top of the body

Precautions for Carburetor Maintenance 1. Take great care when handling fuel.

2. Arrange disassembled parts for each system in order of assembly to facilitate smooth reassembly.

3. Do not clean jets or small holes with wire

Sheet 7: Fuel System Disassembly 1. Remove the air horn assembly and disassemble.

1) Remove the solenoid (1).

2) Remove the coder pins (2) and (3), and disconnect the pump connecting rod and starting connecting rod.

3) Remove the screws (4), (5), (6), (7), and (8), and remove the air horn assembly from the body assembly.

Fig. 6-5 4) Remove the spring (9) and pull out the accelera-tion pump plunger assembly (10).

5) Remove the float pin (11 ) and remove the float (12).

6) Remove the float valve seat (13) to remove the nee-dle valve (14), spring (15), and spring seat (16).

Fig. 6-6 2. Disassemble the body assembly 1) Remove screws (1), and (2) to separate the body assembly and flange assembly.

Fig. 6-7 2) Remove each jet from the top of the body assembly.

3 Slow jet 4 Slow air bleed 5 Main air bleed 6 Plug

Sheet 7: Fuel System 7 Inlet check valve 8 Plug 9 Main jet

Fig. 6-8 Inspection 1. Air horn assembly and related parts 1) Check air horn for cracks, distortion of the body mating surfaces, wearing of the choke valve shaft bearing area, and operation of the choke valve. Check the acceleration pump boot for damage, and matching of the needle valve seat with the valve. Replace if faulty.

2. Body assembly and related parts 1) Check body assembly for cracks, and distortion of mating surfaces. Replace if faulty.

2) Check the main jet, slow jet, slow air bleed, air path, and fuel path for any clogging. Replace if faulty.

3. Flange and related parts 1) Check flange assembly for cracks, distortion of mating surfaces, wearing of the throttle valve shaft bearing area, and for easy throttle valve operation. Replace if faulty.

4. Linkage and related parts 1) Check the levers, arms, and rods for any distortion, bending or wearing. Replace or repair if necessary.

Reassembly Reverse procedures to assemble, using care on the following points: 1. Use new gaskets.

2. Inspect the float level and adjust using the following procedure.

1) Place the air horn assembly with float facing upward.

2) Lift the float and lower it slowly without putting pres-sure on it. When it stops, measure the H dimen-sion. H dimension should be 4.0mm (0.16 in.). Adjust the float setting, replacing the needle valve if faulty.

Sheet 7: Fuel System Fig. 6-9 3. Inspection and adjustment of starting interlock.

1) The choke valve is interlocked with the throttle valve (1 ) through a link. Pulling out the choke closes the choke valve and opens the throttle valve to proper setting (approx. 24 degrees) for starting en-gine. The A dimension should be 1.0mm (0.04 in.) when the choke valve is fully closed. Adjust by bending the connecting rod (2) if A dimension is not within the proper limits.

Fig. 6-10 4. Solenoid inspection 1) With the solenoid body contacting the negative ter-minal of the battery, bring the Connector into con-tact with the positive terminal. At this point, the shaft of the solenoid should retract (in the direc-tion of the arrow). Replace if faulty.

Fig. 6-11 5. Idle adjustment 1) To adjust the engine to the specified rpm, adjust the idle and throttle using the adjusting screws.

Idling speed: 600 -650 rpm

Fig. 6-12

GOVERNOR General With forklift, the output from the engine is used for two purposes:

Sheet 7: Fuel System 1) For forklift mobility.

2) To operate the hydraulic lift.

Because of this, the load applied to the engine may sometimes increase rapidly, resulting in engine speed problems, irrespective of accelerator operation.

For example, if the load suddenly increases, the rpm's decrease suddenly, stalling the engine. If the load suddenly decreases, the rpm's increase suddenly, over-raving the engine or applying excessive force to the hydraulic unit To prevent these situations, a governor is used to prevent the rpm of the engine from changing rapidly even if the load varies suddenly. In addition, the maximum rpm is restricted during unloaded operation to prevent over-run and to prevent excessive force from being applied to the hydraulic unit.

There are several governor types. The governor used for this engine is a simple pneumatic type. Compared with a conventional type, this governor also has a VCV (vacuum control valve) feature to regulate the vacuum advance of the distributor. There is also hot water from the cooling system fed to the governor to prevent icing.

Construction and Operation 1. VCV (vacuum control valve) The VCV detects negative pressures in the governor and intake manifold to control the vacuum to the distributor, providing appropriate timing control. This system improves fuel economy at high engine rpm, low loading range (for light load running).

Three vacuum (negative pressure) sensing points are used in this system where: Pa: Negative pressure at top of the throttle valve Pb: Negative pressure between the throttle valve and governor Pc: Negative pressure at the intake manifold

Fig. 6-13 1) Engine at idle: At idle, the carburetor throttle valve is almost fully closed. Negative pressure in the venturi closes the governor valve almost fully. At this point, Pa is near-ly the same as the air pressure, with no difference in pressure between Pb and Pc. The relationship is: Pa > Pb / Pc. The Pa reaches the distributor through the VCV, but vacuum timing control is negligible due to small negative pressure.

2) Around 1, 300 rpm Gradually increasing the engine rpm from idle up to 1, 300 rpm opens the carburetor throttle valve, slightly opening the governor valve also. The relationship at this time is: Pa > Pb > Pc. The VCV presses the spring, increasing the vacuum to the distributor. Further increase of the rpm will force the VCV to shut off the Pa.

Sheet 7: Fuel System

Fig. 6-14 3) Over 1, 400 rpm Increasing the engine rpm over 1, 400 opens the carburetor throttle valve almost completely and closes the governor valve almost completely. The relationship at this time is: Pa - Pb > Pc. The VCV compresses the spring completely, shutting off the Pa, but the Pc is applied to the distributor, resulting in a sudden increase of vacuum. After that, the negative pressure is stabilized.

This description refers to the case for light load-ing. Variation in negative pressure changes the opening degree of the governor. There are differ-ent examples of the above description for differ-ent load situations.

Fig. 6-15 2. Function of hot water connection Hot water is fed to the governor to prevent icing. The hot water comes from the engine cooling system.

Fig. 6-16 Disassembly 1. Remove the lock wire from the adjusting screw.

2. Remove the screws, then remove the cam chamber cover and gasket.

Sheet 7: Fuel System

Fig. 6-17 3. Remove the bushing (thumb wheel) lock bolt, then remove the bushing from the adjusting screw.

Fig. 6-18 4.

Remove the clip to separate the cam and band.

Fig. 6-19 5.

Separate the spring and adjusting screw.

Fig. 6-20 Inspection Cam band and cam spring 1.

Replace if the cam band is broken, or if the cam spring Is stretched or broken.

Sheet 7: Fuel System

Fig. 6-21 Governor assembly 1. Blow air through the port as shown in the figure. Replace the governor assembly if there is air leakage on the manifold side.

2. Make sure that the governor valve functions smoothly by operating the cam

Fig. 6-22 Reassembly To reassemble, reverse steps used to disassemble, using the following information: 1.

When installing the adjusting screw on the cam spring, thread the adjusting screw into the spring.

Fig. 6-23 2.

Install the bushing (thumb wheel) on the adjusting screw to the dimension shown.

3.

Tighten the bushing lock bolt to the specified torque.

Torque specification: 30 kg. cm. (26 inch Ibs.)

4.

At the time of installation use new gaskets.

Fig. 6-24

Sheet 7: Fuel System Adjustment 1.

Explanation of adjustment Turning the bushing to advance or retract the adjusting screw changes spring tension. This adjustment regulates unloaded maximum rpm.

Turning the adjusting screw itself changes the engagement length between the screw and spring, which changes the free length, or constant tension, of the spring. This procedure can adjust the rated output resulting in changed unloaded maximum rpm.

Therefore, if you turn the bushing, you must use a screwdriver to prevent the adjusting screw it-self from turning.

Fig. 6-25 1. Adjusting screw 2. Bushing (thumb wheel) 3. Bushing lock bolt 4. Spring 2.

Adjustment Before adjusting the governor, warm up the engine and check the valve clearance, ignition timing, point gap, and idling operation.

1) With the engine unloaded, press the accelerator pedal fully and read the engine RPM.

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

2900 rpm or more Fixed Turn counterclockwise to 2700 through 2900 rpm.

Below 2700 rpm Fixed Turn clockwise to 2700 through 2900 rpm.

2) After pressing the accelerator pedal fully, read a drop in RPM when a load is applied (by operating the tilt lever).

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

Drop of 700 rpm or more Turn counterclockwise.

Turn clockwise.

Drop of less than 700 rpm OK (adjustment is unnecessary).

3) After pressing the accelerator pedal fully, check to see if hunting occurs when load is applied (by operating the tilt lever).

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

Hunting occurs for 5 seconds or more Turn 1/8 clockwise Turn 1/8 counterclockwise

Hunting occurs for less the 5 seconds OK (adjustment is unnecessary).

4) After pressing the accelerator pedal fully with the engine unloaded, check to see if hunting occurs.

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

Hunting occurs for 5 seconds or more Turn clockwise.

Turn counterclockwise.

Hunting occurs for less than 5 seconds OK (adjustment is unnecessary).

5) Because each adjustment interacts with the next, you must repeat the steps (1 ) through (5) until you get a standard value requiring no further adjustment. After pressing the accelerator pedal fully, check to see if the throttle valve is fully opened.

Sheet 7: Fuel System 6) After adjustment, tighten the bushing lock bolt to 310 kg. cm. (22 ft. Ibs.) torque. Lock the adjusting screw using the wire and seal.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS AND CORRECTION Problem Improper Starting

Improper Idling

Flooding

Poor acceleration

Improper operation at high speed (insufficient output) Excessive fuel consumption

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Possible Cause of Problem Flooding Improper fuel pump operation Poor idle adjustment Defective choke valve operation Defective slow fuel cut-off solenoid valve Jet Clogging Improper idle adjustment Flooding Mixture adjusting screw damaged Slow path and/or idle port clogged Main jet clogged Poor sealing and or damage of the intake manifold gasket or carburetor insulator Defective throttle valve closing Defective choke valve return (opening) Defective slow fuel cut-off solenoid valve Leaking or damaged vacuum hose Poor seating of or damage to the needle valve Improper float level adjustment Float chamber gasket damaged or cover screw loose Float sinking Defective acceleration pump Improper throttle valve operation Jet clogged Main jet clogged Float level too low Fuel filter or fuel line clogged Air cleaner element clogged Insufficient fuel pump pressure Float level too high Air bleed clogged Jet loose Gasket damage Defective choke valve return (opening) Poor idling operation (improper CO adjustment) Air cleaner element clogged Mixture adjusting screw damaged

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Correction See below Replace Adjust Adjust or replace Replace Clean Adjust See Below Replace Clean Clean Retighten or replace

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Repair or replace Repair or Replace Replace Repair or replace Clean or replace Adjust Retighten or replace Replace

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Replace Repair Clean Clean Adjust Replace or clean Replace Replace Adjust Clean Retighten Replace Adjust Adjust Replace Replace

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance

L. P. G. FUEL SYSTEM GENERAL Liquid Petroleum Gas, under pressure in the tank, is forced through a hydrostatic relief valve to the filter fuel lock. Vacuum from the carburetor allows fuel to flow through the filter into the regulator (converter) where the liquid is changed to a vapor. It is then sent to the carburetor under low pressure. Air is drawn into the carburetor and is mixed with the low pressure fuel. The mixture enters into He engine through the intake manifold.

A governor is mounted between the carburetor and intake manifold, and is designed to prevent engine over-run and limit maximum ends ? R. P. M.

IMPCO FUEL SYSTEM 1. LlQUID OUTAGE VALVE W/QUICK DISCONNECT COUPLING. 2. FILLER VALVE. 3. PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. 4. LIQUID OUTAGE FILL CHECK VALVE (80% APPROX.).

5. FUEL GAUGE. 6. BULKHEAD FITTING. 7. HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE. 8. VFF 30 VACUUM FUELOCK FILTER 9. J VAPORIZER-REGULATOR (CONVERTER).

10. CARBURETOR 11. VAPOR WITHDRAWAL TUBE (when applicable).

12. 80% LIMITOR TUBE. 13. FUEL LEVEL FLOAT 14. LlQUID WITHDRAWAL TUBE. 15. POWER MIXTURE SCREW. 16. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW. 17. COOLANT LINES IN/OUT. 18. VACUUM FUEL SHUT OFF LINE. 19. ALL WATER FITTINGS MUST BE BRASS ONLY.

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance AIR CLEANER General The air cleaner is equipped with a cyclone type dust sepa-rator having a set of turbine-like blades around the outer circumference. The blades force incoming air to circu-late around the filter element. Centrifugal force from the circulating motion forces the dust in the air to the out-side of the steel canister, where it drops down to the dust collector. The fresh air is then drawn inward by the en-gine vacuum, through the paper filter element.

Fig. 7-1 Inspection, cleaning, and replacement 1) Check the element for any damage or clogging. Replace if faulty.

Air cleaner cleaning interval: Every 200 hours or every month, or whichever comes first, or every 100 hours in areas where there is a. lot of dust.

Element replacement interval: Every 1200 hours or every six months, whichever comes first, or every 600 hours or every month in areas where there is a lot of dust.

Fig. 7-2 2) Clean the element by blowing air from the inside of the element outward. At the same time remove any dust from the dust pan. The element can be cleaned in water. It is recommended to clean it in mild detergent.

Fig. 7-3

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance MANIFOLD Inspection 1) Measure the distortion of the cylinder head contact surfaces of the intake and exhaust manifolds with a thickness gauge.

Replace if the measured value exceeds the allowable limits.

Distortion limit: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)

FUEL TANK

1) Liquid outage valve with quick disconnect coupling 2) Filler valve 3) Pressure relief valve 4) Liquid outage fill check valve (80% approx.)

5) Fuel gauge 6) Vapor withdrawal tube (when applicable) 7) 70% Limitor tube 8) Fuel level float 9) Liquid withdrawal tube

L. P. G. FUEL TANK The fuel under pressure in an L. P. G. tank is drawn out in the form of a liquid.

When the liquid is exposed to atmospheric pressure, it will vapo-rize very rapidly. Caution is advised when handling any fuel.

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance The position of the tank in its bracket is important in that it will allow the most fuel tube extracted from the tank (See Item 9).

Always align the locating pin, on the tank bracket, with the hole in the tank collar (See Figure 7-5).

HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE— REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT 1.

Shut the fuel valve on the fuel tank off by turning the valve clockwise until it is completely closed. Run the engine until it stops.

2.

Slowly loosen the hose fitting and allow the fuel in the line to drain from the system. Remove the relief valve after fuel is completely drained.

WARNING: L. P. G. is flammable. Make certain there are no sparks or open flames in the area when the fuel lines are drained.

3.

The valve can not be repaired. If the valve is defective, it must be replaced. After a new valve has been installed and the hose line reconnected, open the tank fuel valve slowly. Check the system for leaks using a soap solution or a commercially available explosimeter. Reconnect the battery.

CAUTION: Excessive dope on the pipe threads can get inside this valve and cause it to malfunction.

HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE

Fig. 7-6 FILTER Replacement of Filter 1.

Close the fuel valve on the tank by turning the valve clock-wise. Run the engine until it stops.

2.

Slowly loosen the hose fitting to the filter and allow the fuel to drain from the hose and fitting.

WARNING: L. P. G. is flammable. Make certain there are not sparks or open flames in the area when the fuel lines are drained.

3.

Remove the ten screws and lockwashers. Remove the filter cover and gasket. Replace the filter element with a new filter clement.

4.

Install the gasket and filter cover. Tighten the screws and lockwashers.

5.

Install the hose. Open the tank valve slowly by turning the valve counterclockwise until it is fully opened.

6.

Using a soap solution or a commercially available explosimeter check the system for leaks.

IMPCO L. P. G. VACUUM FUEL LOCK FILTER

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance

Fig. 7-7 Diaphragm and Fuel Valve Seat Installation 1.

Close the fuel valve on the tank by turning the valve clockwise. Run the engine until it stops.

2.

Slowly loosen the inlet hose fitting and allow the L. P. G. fuel to drain from the line. Remove the vacuum hose.

Disassemble the capscrews and lockwashers retaining the filter. Disassemble the filter from the converter.

WARNING: L. P. G. is flammable. Make certain there are no sparks or open flames in the area when the fuel lines are drained.

3.

Remove the ten screws and lockwashers from the filter cover. Remove the cover, filter and screen.

4.

Remove the six screws and lockwashers retaining the diaphragm cover. Remove the cover, gasket and diaphragm.

5.

Remove the screw and lockwasher retaining the leaf spring. Remove the valve spring, and the valve seat. Pull the pin out of bore.

6.

The seal retaining washer must now be removed through the 'Fuel Out' opening. Use a paper clip or wire to make a hook to aid in removing the washer.

7.

Use the hook to remove the 'O' ring seal through the valve jet opening.

8.

Clean all parts except the diaphragm in solvent. Use compressed air to dry the components. Do not use compressed air on the diaphragm. Do not use carburetor cleaner because it will damage synthetic rubber seals. The diaphragm should be replaced whenever this unit is serviced.

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance 9.

Inspect the filter housing and covers for cracks or damage. Inspect threads for damage or crossthreading.

10. Coat a new 'O' ring and the pin with silicone grease or equivalent. Use a No. 12-24 UNC screw to install the 'O' ring through the valve jet opening. Rotate the screw in a circular motion while pushing the 'O' ring into the recess. Align the seal retaining washer with the 'O' ring using needle nose pliers and inserting the washer into the 'Fuel Out' opening. Install the pin to retain the washer and 'O' ring.

11. Install the valve seat with the polyurethane pad toward the bore. Install the leaf spring, lockwasher and screw.

12. Install the screw and filter element. Position the gasket on the body and assemble the cover using the ten screws and lockwashers.

13. Install the diaphragm so the large plate is toward the valve. Position the gasket and cover and install the six screws and lockwashers to retain the cover.

14. Assemble fuel outlet to converter connector. Install cap-screws to retain filter to mounting bracket. Reconnect vacuum line. Connect line to tank.

15. Slowly open the fuel valve on the tank. Check for leaks in the fuel lines that were removed and the filter using a soap solution or a commercially available explosimeter. Start the engine and recheck the filter for leaks.

VACUUM FUEL LOCK FILTER ITE M 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

DESCRIPTION Screw Cover Diaphragm Assembly Screw Anchor Lever Body Screw Washer "O" Ring Pin Valve Seat Spring Screw Element Filter Gasket Cover Screw

CONVERTER—REMOVAL

WARNING: L. P. G. can cause an explosion. A Do not allow open flame, sparks or flammable material near the L. P. G. fuel system. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.

1.

Shut off the fuel valve on the fuel tank by turning the valve clockwise until it is completely closed. Run the engine until it stops. Disconnect the hose to the carburetor.

2.

Position a drain pan under the radiator drain valve. Open the drain valve and allow the coolant to drain into the pan.

3.

Disconnect the coolant lines to the converter. Remove the capscrews retaining the converter to the bracket. Disassemble the converter from the connector between the converter and filter.

CONVERTER-REGULATOR DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY 1.

Remove the seven screws and lockwashers that retain the high pressure cover and plate to the converter body. Remove the

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance cover and the pressure reducing diaphragm.

2.

Remove the pin and spring from the plate. Remove the plate and gasket. Remove pressure reducer seat.

3.

Remove the six screws and lockwashers retaining the vapor chamber cover to the converter.

4.

Remove the cover and diaphragm by carefully moving the cover and vapor valve diaphragm toward the inlet port. This will release the diaphragm from the vapor valve lever.

5.

Position thumb and pointing finger on the lever and remove the screw and lockwasher and spring.

CAUTION: The lever is spring loaded and could spring apart as the screw and lockwasher is disassembled.

6.

Remove the lever pivot pin. Straighten the seat pin to remove the seat. Remove the seat perch from the lever using a punch. Support the tip of the lever to prevent any deformation of the lever.

7.

Clean all parts except the diaphragm in solvent. Do not use carburetor cleaner because it will damage the synthetic rubber seals. Use compressed air to dry the components. Do not use compressed air on the diaphragm.

8.

Inspect the converter housing for cracks or damage. Inspect threaded areas for damage or evidence of crossthreading.

Fig. 7-8 ITEM 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

DESCRIPTION Filter Screw Cover Assembly—Secondary Diaphragm Assembly Screw Lever Assembly Seat

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance 8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

Pin Spring Body Screw Seat Gasket Plate Plug Spring Pin Diaphragm Assembly Cover Assembly Screw

DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY 9.

Reassemble, replacing all eight items included in a YALE approved repair kit.

10. A new seat can be pressed by hand into the opening in thin tip of the lever where the seat perch was removed. Make certain that the seat snaplocks into place. Clip the top of the seat stem off 0.125 inches to prevent contact with the secondary diaphragm.

11. Position pivot pin into the lever and align spring with tabs in the lever and converter body. Hold the fulcrum lever in position and install screw and lockwasher. Tighten the screw securely. The lever should be 0.03 inch below the level of the casting. Use a straight edge to make the measurement.

12. Align the slot in the secondary diaphragm with the lever and slide into the lever. Align the diaphragm and cover and install the six screws and lockwashers. Tighten all screws until they contact the cover. Finish tightening by alternating from side to side until all the screws are solidly seated.

13. Turn converter over and install the seat into the vaporizing, chamber. Make certain the Vitron seat faces down (to the inside of the converter.

14. Position new gasket and body cover plate onto the converter housing. The pin guide should extend into the vaporizing chamber. Position the spring and actuating pin onto the body cover plate.

15. Align a new diaphragm and the cover with the holes in the body of the converter. Install the seven screw and lock-washers.

Turn the screws in until they touch the cover. Finish tighten by alternating form side to side until all screws are solidly seated.

16. Install converter onto the connector attached to the filter. Install the coolant lines.

CAUTION: Use only brass or plastic fittings in the water connection passages. Steel fittings will cause the converter casting to deteriorate /~ due to electrolysis.

17. Install the hose to the carburetor. Close the radiator drain valve and fill the radiator with coolant. Reconnect the battery negative cable.

18. Slowly open the fuel valve on the tank. Check for leaks in the fuel lines or the converter using a soap solution or a commercially available explosimeter. Start the engine and recheck the converter for leaks.

IMPCO L. P. G. CARBURETOR CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY Because the carburetor has only two moving parts, disassembly is seldom required. Even if the diaphragm assembly must be changed, it can be accomplished without removing the entire carburetor from the vehicle. When replacing the diaphragm assembly if it is determined that the carburetor must be cleaned, the carburetor should be removed from the truck, disassem-bled, cleaned and rebuilt in its entirety. Whenever any disas-sembly is done, all the gaskets that have been disturbed should be replaced. If the operation of an L. P. G. engine is inconsis-tent when starting or idling, check the diaphragm assembly.

1.

Shut off the fuel valve on the fuel tank by turning the valve clockwise until it is completely closed. Run the engine until it

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance stops. There should be no L. P. G. vapor left in the carburetor.

WARNING: L. P. G. can cause an explosion. Do not allow open flame, sparks or flammable material near the L. P. G. fuel system. Disconnect ~ the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.

2.

To replace either the gas air valve, the diaphragm or the diaphragm assembly, remove the four screws and lockwashers retaining the carburetor cover. Remove the cover, spring and diaphragm assembly. Disassemble the gas air valve from the diaphragm assembly by removing four screws and lock-washers. Visually inspect the throat and throttle plate. Hold the diaphragm up to a strong light to check for any small tears or pin holes. Make certain the four air passages are not plugged.

Reverse disassembly procedures to reassemble.

Removal and Installation 1.

Disassemble air inlet tube from air cleaner to carburetor inlet. Disconnect the hose from the governor to the air inlet.

Remove the fuel inlet hose and the vacuum.

2.

Disconnect the accelerator linkage to the carburetor. Remove the nuts securing the governor and the carburetor to the intake manifold. Remove the carburetor.

3.

Remove the four screws and lockwashers retaining the carburetor cover. Remove the cover, spring and diaphragm assembly.

4.

Disassemble the diaphragm assembly by removing the four screws and lockwashers. The plate, air valve ring, gas air valve and the diaphragm may all be separated.

5.

Turn the carburetor over and remove the four screws and lockwashers retaining the throat sub-assembly. Separate the carburetor and throat sub-assembly.

6.

The throttle shaft can be disassembled by removing the throttle lever, throttle stop lever and throttle plate.

7.

Clean all parts except the diaphragm in solvent. Use compressed air to dry all parts except the diaphragm. Make certain the four passages in the gas air valve are not plugged. Check the diaphragm for integrity and flexibility. Hold the diaphragm up to a strong light to check for any small tears or pin holes.

8.

Reassemble the throttle plate, throttle stop lever and throttle lever onto the throttle shaft.

9.

Install new gaskets and reassemble carburetor. Mate the throat sub-assembly to the carburetor body with the four screws and lockwashers.

10. Reassemble diaphragm, air valve ring, gas air valve and plate using four screws and lockwashers.

11. Position diaphragm assembly into carburetor and install cover using four screws and lockwashers.

12. Position carburetor onto intake manifold studs that also retain the governor. Install gaskets, nuts and lockwashers.

Reconnect linkage.

13. Install air inlet tube. Install vacuum hoses and fuel inlet hose.

14. Reconnect the battery. Open the fuel valve on the tank slowly. Check the L. P. G. system for leaks using a soap solu-tion or a commercially available explosimeter. Start the engine and recheck the carburetor for leaks.

IMPCO L.P.G CARBURETOR

Fig. 7 9 ITEM 1.

DESCRIPTION Screw

Sheet 8: General Fuel System Maintenance 2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

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19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

Spring, Air Valve Diaphragm Assembly Spring, Idle Screw Screw, Idle Plug Gasket, Throat to Body Bracket with Clamp Screw Pin Screw Plate Ring Seal Bearing Throttle Shaft Gasket Throttle Stop lever Throttle Lever With Accelerator Cable Clamp Screw Screw Screw Spring, Idle Stop Screw

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting GOVERNOR General With a forklift, the output from the engine is used for two purposes 1) For forklift mobility 2) To operate the hydraulic lift.

Because of this, the load applied to the engine may sometimes increase rapidly, resulting in engine speed problems, irrespective accelerator operation.

For example, if the load suddenly increases, the rpm's decrease suddenly, stalling the engine. If the load suddenly decreases, the rpm's increase suddenly, over-reving the engine or applying excessive force to the hydraulic unit.

To prevent these situations, a governor is used to prevent the rpm of the engine from changing rapidly even if the load varies suddenly. In addition, the maximum rpm is restricted during unloaded operation to prevent over-run and to prevent excessive force from being applied to the hydraulic unit.

There are several governor types. The governor used for this engine is a simple pneumatic type. Compared with a conventional type, this governor also has a VCV (vacuum control valve) feature to regulate the vacuum advance of the distributor. There is also hot water from the cooling system fed to the governor to prevent icing.

Construction and Operation 1.

VCV (vacuum control valve)

The VCV detects negative pressures in the governor and intake manifold to control the vacuum to the distributor, providing appropriate timing control. This system improves fuel economy at high engine rpm, low loading range (for light load running).

Three vacuum (negative pressure) sensing points are used in this system where: Pa: Negative pressure at top of the throttle valve Pb: Negative pressure between the throttle valve and governor Pc: Negative pressure at the intake manifold 1) Engine at idle: At idle, the carburetor throttle valve is almost fully closed. Negative pressure in the venturi closes the governor valve almost fully. At this point, Pa is nearly the same as the air pressure, with no difference in pressure between Pb and Pc. the relationship is: Pa > Pb ÷Pc. The Pa reaches the distributor through the VCV, but vacuum timing control is negligible due to small negative pressure.

Fig. 7-10 Governor 2) Around 1, 300 rpm Gradually increasing the engine rpm from idle up to 1, 300 rpm opens the carburetor throttle valve, slightly opening the governor valve also. The relationship at this time is: Pa > Pb > Pc. The VCV presses the spring, increasing the vacuum to the distributor. Further increase of the rpm will force the VCV to shut off the Pa.

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting

Fig. 7-11 3) Over 1, 400 rpm Increasing the engine rpm over 1, 400 opens the carburetor throttle valve almost completely and closes the governor valve almost completely. The relationship at this time is: Pa - Pb > Pc. .The VCV compresses the spring completely, shutting off the Pa, but the Pc is applied to the distributor, resulting in a sudden increase of vacuum. After that, the negative pressure is stabilized.

Fig. 7-12 This description refers to the case for light loading. Variation in negative pressure changes the opening degree of the governor. There are different examples of the above description for different load situations.

2.

Function of hot water connection Hot water is fed to the governor to prevent icing. The hot water comes from the engine cooling system.

Fig. 7~13 Governor Disassembly

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting

Fig. 7-14 1.

Remove the lock wire from the adjusting screw.

2.

Remove the screws, then remove the cam chamber cover and gasket.

Fig. 7-15 3.

Remove the bushing (thumb wheel) lock bolt, then remove the bushing from the adjusting screw

Fig. 7-16 4.

Remove the clip to separate the cam and band.

5.

Separate the spring and adjusting screw.

Fig. 7-17 Governor Inspection Cam band and cam spring 1.

Replace if the cam band is broken, or if the cam spring is stretched or broken.

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting

Fig. 7-18 Governor assembly 1.

Blow air through the port as shown in the figure. Replace the governor assembly if there is air leakage on the manifold side.

2.

Make sure that the governor valve functions smoothly by operating the cam.

Fig. 7-19 Reassembly To reassemble, reverse steps used to disassemble, using the following information: 1.

When installing the adjusting screw on the cam spring, thread the adjusting screw into the spring.

Fig. 7-20 Governor 2.

Install the bushing (thumb wheel) on the adjusting screw to the dimension shown.

3.

Tighten the bushing lock bolt to the specified torque.

Torque specification: 30 kg. cm. (26 inch Ibs.)

4.

At the time of installation use new gaskets.

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting

Fig. 7-21 Governor Adjustment 1.

Explanation of adjustment Turning the bushing to advance or retract the adjusting screw changes spring tension. This adjustment regulates unloaded maximum rpm.

Turning the adjusting screw itself changes the engagement length between the screw and spring, which changes the free length, or constant tension, of the spring. This procedure can adjust the rated output resulting in changed unloaded maximum rpm.

Therefore, if you turn the bushing, you must use a screwdriver to prevent the adjusting screw it-self from turning.

Fig. 7-22 1. Adjusting screw 2. Bushing (thumb wheel) 3. Bushing lock bolt 4. Spring 2.

Adjustment

Before adjusting the governor, warm up the engine and check the valve clearance, ignition timing, point gap, and idling operation.

1) With the engine unloaded, press the accelerator pedal fully and read the engine RPM. Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

2900 rpm or more Fixed Turn counterclockwise to 2700 through 2900 rpm

Below 2700 rpm Fixed Turn clockwise to 2700 through 2900 rpm.

2) After pressing the accelerator pedal fully, read a drop in RPM when a load is applied (by operating the tilt lever).

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

Drop of 700 rpm or more Turn counterclockwise Turn clockwise

Drop of less than 700 rpm OK (adjustment is unnecessary)

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting Governor Adjustment 3) After pressing the accelerator pedal fully, check to see if hunting occurs when load is applied (by operating the tilt lever).

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

Hunting occurs for 5 seconds or more Turn 1/8 clockwise Turn 1/8 counterclockwise

Hunting occurs for less the 5 seconds OK (adjustment is unnecessary)

4) After pressing the accelerator pedal fully with the engine unloaded, check to see if hunting occurs.

Engine status Adjusting screw Bushing

Hunting occurs for 5 seconds or more Turn clockwise Turn counterclockwise

Hunting occurs for less than 5 seconds.

OK (adjustment is unnecessary).

5) Because each adjustment interacts with the next, you must repeat the steps (1 ) through (5) until you get a standard value requiring no further adjustment. After pressing the accelerator pedal fully, check to see if the throttle valve is fully opened.

6) After adjustment, tighten the bushing lock bolt to 310 kg. cm. (22 ft. Ibs.) torque. Lock the adjusting screw using the wire and seal.

Specifications IMPCO L. P. G. REGULATOR MODEL JB JBM

DESCRIPTION Blue spring Blue spring. mechanical primer

NOTE: Above models are designed to operate with IMPCO Model 50, 100. and 125 carburetors.

JO JOM

Orange spring. hand primer Orange spring, mechanical primer

NOTE: Above models are designed to operate with IMPCO 300A mixers or other makes of LP carburetors that provide Idle mixture adjustment.

AB1-28 Mechanical Primer

NOTE: Two vapor outlet procures are available. Orange low pressure spring gives negative 1/2" water column. Blue low pressure spring glow negative 1-1/2" water column.

TROUBLESHOOTING LPG SYSTEM Engine Will Not Start

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting PROBLEM Fuel not reaching carburetor

No fuel to carburetor upon pushing primer switch

Fuel leaking through primary regulator Primary pressure is normal but fuel is leaking Leaking valve in vaporizer regulator causing carburetor to flood.

POSSIBLE CAUSE Fuel tank empty.

Fuel tank positioned incorrectly Excess flow valve closed Tank valve closed.

Fuel line crushed or kinked.

Fuel line connected to vapor port instead of liquid Pipe dope or protective dust plug in primary orifice of primary regulator The primary spring missing or rusted Valve seat stuck to orifice in secondary regulator Lever in secondary regulator far out of adjustment Primer plunger too short to open valve.

Primer inoperative Metering valve and throttle plate not opening simultaneously Pressure is too high Spring or washer installed in correctly Dirt on valve seat.

Spring is missing Lever incorrectly set Primer plunger is too long.

Dirt or damaged valve

Vaporizer-regulator pressure too low Gas seeping into cooling system

Rusted diaphragm springs

Engine fails to start.

Low battery voltage.

Leaking heat exchanger or seals

Defective ignition circuit.

Heavy congealed oil.

Leak in intake system

Excessive fuel supply. (Flooding) Engine fails to start.

(Cont'd.)

Insufficient Fuel Supply

CORRECTION Fill fuel tank Reposition with locating pin in locating hole.

Check for excess flow, or replace tank.

Open valve Replace fuel line with approved hose.

Reposition line to proper port.

Clean orifice and blow out hoses.

Replace spring Clean or replace valve seat.

Rebend to proper dimension Replace primer plunger Repair or replace Readjust throttle plate Clean dirty valve seat. Replace diaphragm if defective. Readjust valve lever Install correctly or replace if necessary.

Reconnect valve seat Replace spring.

Adjust lever to proper specifications.

Shorten primer plunger Install a 0-30 lb. pressure gauge in one of the 3 outlet openings of regulator head. Start engine and let it idle. Gauge should register pressure of 9-11 PSI* and remain steady. If gauge pressure creeps up, remove the unit and repair as per service procedure in manual. *PSI varies according to unit Remove unit and repair as per service procedure in manual Remove assembly, plug all the outlet openings and correct compressed air to inlet. Check for leaks with bubble solution. Replace heat exchanger coil and rubber seals. Cooling system should be treated with a rust inhibitor.

Check battery charge; clean & tighten terminals.

Check for hot (blue) across 1/4" air gap spark from plug terminal to wire; if spark is weak, check complete ignition system.

Clean crankcase and fill with correct grade oil.

Check for intake valve sticking open (broken valve spring or incorrect tappet clearance). Check for air leaks at hoses, manifold and carburetor If carburetor, regulator, and vapor hose are frosted, close tank valve to let excess fuel vaporize. Start on vapor, then open tank valve after vaporizer is warm.

If system is NOT frosted, crank engine with throttle wide open. Engine should start when richness is thinned; however, fuel may have to be shut off at solenoid or tank.

With ignition on, prime regulator. (Depress supply secondary diaphragm or blow into air vent.)Audible hiss proves fuel is flowing; if not, check fuel system: 1. Fuel tank empty or outlet valve shut.

2. Excess flow valve shut; close valve and reopen slowly 3. Check solenoid valve operation.

4. Check fuel line to find point of stoppage.

5. Check carburetor power setting and look for restrictions in channel and venturi. (Blow into carburetor fuel inlet.)

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting Engine is hard to start.

(As above for Engine fails to start.)

Poor idling

Dirty air cleaner.

Poor compression Idles too fast Idle speed fluctuates

Idle mixture too rich.

Engine dies when slowed to idle.

Idle mixture too lean. (When operation at other speeds is satisfactory.)

Engine needs tune-up.

Vacuum leaks or low engine oil pressure.

Air leak in vapor hose.

Regulator diaphragm.

Spark knock, ping detonation

Worn regulator parts.

Engine overheated.

Hot spark plugs.

Pre-ignition

"Dieseling" (Engine continues to run after ignition is shut off.)

Hot fuel-air mixture Fuel mixture too lean "Hot spot" in combustion chamber

On grade: Low oil level.

Dirty fuel filter Excess flow valve at tank snaps shut.

Fuel line kinked Dip tube broken in tank.

At full throttle (low vacuum).

Engine misses at all speeds

Check timing; retard, as needed. Check water circulation; clean radiator & engine cooling system.

Check for carbon deposits; with LP operation, deposits can result from poor quality engine oil or from excessively rich mixture.

Tighten plugs, if loose, or replace with colder running plugs.

Hot weather or overheated engine.

Reset idle mixture; adjust idle speed.

Loose (hot) spark plug(s); tighten or replace plugs and gaskets, if needed. Check valve tappet clearances and springs. Run warm engine slowly up to high speed several times to burn off carbon deposits.

(As above for pre-ignition) Idle speed too fast

Engine dies when pulling a Ioad

Clean or replace filter in air cleaner.

Check compression & valve adjustment.

Check & adjust idle, throttle and choke settings Loose throttle stop, worn idle/throttle parts.

Worn or binding parts in carburetor, vaporiz-er or regulator Air leaks from hose connections (or power brake).

Oil pool in low spot of vapor hose Worn, loose, dirty ignition components Incorrect timing—either too fast or too slow.

In dual-fuel systems, lockoff valve may leak.

Check for poor compression Increase idle speed and reset idle mixture.

Choke partially closed; adjust.

Change to larger size venturi.

Economizer diaphragm, if present, ruptured.

Air filter restricted; clean or replace.

Regulator mounted on angle or on side instead of vertical, regulator valve(s) stuck or out of adjustment; reposition or adjust.

Check idle passages, tubes and connections for restrictions or air leaks.

Change to smaller size venturi.

Oil pool in low spot of vapor hose.

Secondary diaphragm ruptured or stiff.

Check ignition and compression.

(Cause lockoff to shut); check for leaks; check compression; repair engine.

Check hose for holes, porosity, looseness.

Check for stiff or ruptured diaphragm(s). (Sudden stops may cause diaphragm move-ment; relocate regulator 90°to position parallel with motion of vehicle.)

Adjust or replace.

Ignition system malfunction

Reduce idle speed; check idle mixture; install lock-off valve Check and refill crankcase, as needed. Replace oil safety switch Clean or replace filter.

Restart engine and run at low speed.

Check for frost at restriction and repair Causes drop in fuel pressure (vapor being used); tank will be cold or sweating: replace tank.

Return tank to manufacturer for repair Vacuum switch may shut off fuel; restart engine and run at low engine speed.

Check plugs, wires, points, rotor, coil, etc

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting

Engine misses at all speeds (cont'd.)

Engine missies at high speeds

Leaking inlet valve Excessive oil in regulator

Blown head gasket . Valves sticking.

Water in fuel or gasoline leak into system Fuel mixture incorrect

Check compression; replace gasket.

Check, adjust and/or repair.

Check, clean and/or repair; check storage methods Check and adjust, as needed.

Regulator diaphragm Vapor hose air leaks Hot spark plugs

Check for stiff, ruptured or loose diaphragm.

Check for looseness and porosity.

Tighten plugs, if loose, or replace with colder running plugs Check plugs, wires, points, rotor, coil, etc Check and adjust choke.

Check and adjust or replace lock-off Check and adjust or repair regulator.

Check fuel supply components; fill tank.

Replace or clean valve parts as necessary.

Check with fuel dealer regarding fuel contamination.

Clean and adjust regulator.

Remove regulator and follow standard service procedure as outlined in manual Replace valve spring and block assembly and readjust regulator. Follow procedure outlined in manual.

Close vapor service valve

Ignition system Choke partially closed Gasoline lock-off leaking Primary regulator stuck Fuel pressure fluctuation Dirt or damaged valve Oil in fuel.

No fuel delivery from regulator Hard starting, erratic operation

Loose or missing leaf spring retainer screws

Tank discharges vaporized fuel only

Vapor service valve not fully closed.

Bent valve push rod due to improper assembly or tinkering

Vapor service valve leaking.

Broken or leaking tube.

Loss of power and lean mixture after engine reaches operating temperature Insufficient fuel through filter.

Engine stalls Exhaust odor, rough idle poor accelerating and excessive fuel consumption.

Hard starting (apparent flooding).

Engine misses on acceleration Engine backfires.

(Explosion or spit-back in intake manifold)

Tank discharging vapor instead of liquid fuel

Fuel tank valve partially closed Tank vapor valve open on li-quid withdrawal system Restricted fuel line or fittings Restricted filter.

Tank too small for vapor withdrawal system (low tank pressure).

Filter plunger travel limited.

Filter plunger return spring incorrectly installed.

Engine idle rpm too low Improper adjustments to idle and mixture.

Open liquid valve and close vapor valve.

Diaphragm in carburetor stuck from dirt etc.

Clean secondary regulator diaphragm or replace if ruptured Check regulator mounting position; relocate, if necessary, for vertical mounting.

Check coil output and distributor.

Check timing and advance action.

Two spark plug wires interchanged; repair. Check & adjust spark timing Check distributor cap for "cross-firing"; clean carbon tracks from cap or replace it. (Temporary fix). Replace cap for permanent fix.

Clean system; check storage methods Reset mixture; check fuel supply system for small diameter fittings or hose. (Restriction will be cold or frosted.) Replace with larger diameter parts.

Relocate below top radiator tank Clean or replace with proper size fit

Regulator mounting Ignition system.

Vacuum spark advance Ignition system

Water in fuel Fuel mixture too lean Freezing in converter.

Have valve serviced or replaces by fuel dealer, Replace tank. Nobody but a tank manufacturer should attempt to repair a tank.

Install tank so that end of dipstick is at bottom.

Replace tank with tank known to have dipstick sealed NOTE: Tanks must be serviced only by manufacturers authorized to make repairs.

Open tank valve.

Converter is mounted too high.

Hose fittings are too small or restricted by corrosion.

Repair or replace Clean or replace filter element Use liquid withdrawal system or larger fuel tank.

Clean plunger and tube assembly Install spring correctly.

Adjust idle to correct rpm Adjust to correct idle and mixture.

Sheet 9: Governor Maintenance, General Troubleshooting Hose in series with heater.

Freezing condition exists but is not caused by converter

Low coolant level.

Bad water pump Loose fan belt Defective hose or fittings.

Air lock.

Primer is not letting fuel pass.

Filter does not shut off

Thermostat missing or defective.

Incorrect hose installation Head gasket leaking.

Transmission oil cooler too hot.

Incorrect or loose primer wiring.

Defective push button switch Defective primer coil.

Primer plunger does not strike diaphragm button Defective vacuum safety switch.

Damaged valve seat or jet Dirty valve plunger, seat or jet

Converter should be connected parallel to heater.

(See diagram).

Add coolant to system.

Replace or rebuild water pump.

Tighten fan belt.

Replace with approved hose and fittings.

Remove top water hose from converter and bleed air from system.

Replace thermostat.

Reinstall hoses correctly.

Replace gaskets.

Check transmission oil level.

Check wiring Replace push button switch.

Replace primer coil.

Realign and adjust primer plunger Replace or rebuild vacuum safety switch.

Replace valve seat or jet.

Clean valve plunger, seat or jet

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System

ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DISTRIBUTOR The distributor is a Mitsubishi CEI (conventional energy ignitions) system of solid state design. It uses a signal rotor and igniter unit contained entirely in the distributor.

The signal rotor in the distributor excites an oscillator in the igniter unit. The output from the oscillator is fed to an amplifier circuit within the igniter. The amplifier drives the power transistor which controls the flow of current from the ignition coil to the plugs by way of a conventional distributor rotor and cap.

Fig. 8-1

IGNITION TIMING Ignition timing is done with a timing light attached to the number one plug wire. Disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum line. Three timing marks are located on the crank-shaft pulley. Align the marks on the pulley with the tab (Fig. 8-1).

Timing should be set at 7°BTDC at 600-650 rpm for gasoline and 10°BTDC at 600-650 rpm for LPG. Determine which timing marking to use. To aid in locating the proper timing marks, they have been color coded.

The yellow mark indicates TDC The white mark indicates 7°BTDC The red mark indicates 10°BTDC To set the timing, loosen the screw retaining the distributor and rotate the distributor(Fig. 8-2). Retighten the screw and double-check the timing.

Fig. 8-2

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System Distributor Timing When installing the distributor in the engine, rotate the en-gine to TDC (compression stroke) and line up the match marks on the distributor housing, distributor gear, and engine, block. Adjust ignition timing (see above) after install-ing distributor.

CAUTION: Do not remove the grease from be-hind the igniter unit. This grease provides proper heat dissipation from the igniter unit.

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System

STARTER Model Manufacturer Applied engine Nominal output Rated time Rotation direction

M003T30782 Mitsubishi Electric D5 type 12 V, 0.8kW 30 minutes Clockwise from the pinion side view

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System No-load test

Voltage

Current RPM Lock test Voltage Current Torque Solenoid switch operating voltage Brushes Number Standard size Wear limit Commutator groove depth

11.5 V 53 A or less 6800 rpm or more 6V 310 A or less 0.75 KGM or more(5.4 ft. Ibs. or more) 8 V or less 2 7.0mm (0.67 in.)

11.0mm (0.43 in.)

0.5-0.8mm (0.02-0.03 in.)

Fig. 8-6

Starting circuit inspection When the starter does not turn or turns unsatisfactorily, inspect the following points before removing the starter.

1.

Battery discharging

2.

Battery terminal loose or corroded

3.

Wiring

4.

Starter terminal loose

5.

Ignition switch operation

6.

Engine rotation

Fig. 8-7 Test After removing the starter, carry out the follow-ing no-load test. If the results are unfavorable, check the following diagnosis chart to find the cause of the problem. Disassemble and repair the starter as needed.

NOTE: There are two types of tests for starters, the no-load test and a load test. The no-load test is described here because it is used in most cases.

Fig. 8-8 No-load test

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System Connect a fully charged 1 2V battery with an ammeter to form the circuit shown in the previous page, and connect the starter switch terminal to the positive (+) terminal of the battery. If the ammeter indicates 53 A or below at 6800 rpm, it is OK. Test result High indicated current and low RPM (low rotation torque) High indicated current and no rotation No rotation without current

Small indicated current and low RPM Large indicated current and high RPM

Probable cause Lack of lubrication/damaged bearings Armature coil or field coil grounding Armature coil short circuit Solenoid switch grounding Armature coil or field coil grounding Bearing seizure Armature coil or field coil open Brush open Commutator dirty Poor brush contact due to worn commutator Improper field coil connection Field coil short-circuit

Disassembly 1.

Remove starter solenoid.

Fig. 8-9

2.

Remove the front bracket (1), and rear bracket (2).

3.

Remove the armature set (4) from the field frame assembly (3).

4.

Remove the lever (5) from the front bracket.

5.

Remove the brush holder (6) from the field frame assembly.

Fig. 8-10

Inspection Inspect the following parts. Repair or replace if faulty.

Fig. 8-11 Armature 1.

Use a tester. Slowly turn the armature while contacting an iron plate to the outside surface. If the iron plate is attracted or vibrates, it indicates that the armature coil is shortcircuited. Replace it with a new one.

Fig. 8-12

2.

Test for continuity between the commutator and shaft (or core) using the circuit test. If there is continuity, the commutator is grounded. Replace the armature.

3.

Check the surface of the commutator for any damage, and inspect the depth of the mica. The standard depth of the mica is 0.5 through 0.8mm (0.02-0.03 in.). Repair (undercut) if it is 0.2mm (0.008 in.) or less.

Fig. 8-13

Field coil

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System 1.

Test for continuity between the ends of the coil (brushes) using the circuit tester. No continuity indicates an open circuit. Replace the field coil assembly.

Fig. 8-14 2.

Check for continuity between the brush (or connector) and the field frame with a circuit tester. Continuity indicates they are ground-ed. Check the insulation. Unless it is repaira-ble, replace the field coil assembly.

Fig. 8-15 Brush holder Check for continuity between the positive side brush holder (insulated) and brush holder frame with a circuit tester. Continuity indicates that they are grounded. Replace the brush holder assembly.

Fig. 8-16 Brush Check for burning and wear of the brushes.

Brush use limit: 11.5mm (0.45 in.)

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System

Fig. 8-17 Brash replacement 1.

Remove the brush and brush lead wire from the brush holder.

2.

Crush the brush to remove it from the brush lead wire.

Fig. 8-18 3.

Install a new brush on the brush lead wire.

Clean the brush lead.

Insert the wire from the side of the brush having the small taper opening.

4.

Solder the brush and brush lead wire.

Solder so the circuit can withstand a current over 200 W.

Fig. 8-19 Fig. 8-20

STARTER SOLENOID 1.

Starter solenoid actuation test

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System 1) Remove the lead wire between the M terminal and starter.

2) Apply voltage between the S and M termi-nals of the starter solenoid to see if the plun-ger is actuated, moving the pinion out.

NOTE: Do not apply current for more than 10 seconds.

2. Holding coil test 1) Remove the lead wire between the M terminal and starter.

2) Apply voltage between the S terminal and body of the starter solenoid and manually pull the pinion.

Make sure the pinion does not return once released.

3. Return test 1) Remove the lead wire between the M terminal and starter.

2) Apply voltage between the M terminal and body of the starter solenoid. Make sure the pinion returns immediately after removing the voltage.

4. Inspection of pinion movement.

1) Remove the wire from M terminal.

2) Connecting the battery between the S terminal and starter body causes the pinion to extend out with the pinion extended, measure how much the pinion jumped out.

Distance pinion extends out: 17mm (0.67 in.)

NOTE: Do not supply current for more than 20 seconds.

Reassembly Reverse procedures to assembly.

Fig. 8-21 Fig. 8-22

ALTERNATOR General The alternator is connected as shown in the diagram to the right.

Specifications Model Manufacturer Applied engine

A001 T23370 Mitsubishi Electric D5 type

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System Nominal output Grounding polarity Pulley rotation direction Output Voltage current Current Hot Current Cold (20°C) (70°F) Rotation speed

12 V 35A (-) Negative Clockwise (from the pulley side) 13.5 V

Regulator type Unloaded adjusted voltage Brushers Number Standard size Wearing limit

IC regulator 14.4 +/- 0.3 V 2 23mm (0.9 in.)

8mm (0 3 in.)

3A 7A

23A 30 A

1300 rpm

2500 rpm

Precautions for charging unit 1.

Connecting the battery in reverse polarity allows high current to flow from the battery to the alternator, damaging the diodes and regulator.

2.

Do not remove the battery terminal while engine is operating. This procedure may sometimes cause a surge in voltage, damaging the diodes and regulator.

3.

Do not use a high-voltage tester such as a Megger because it may damage the diodes and regulator.

4.

Always disconnect the battery terminal when charging the battery with a quick charger. If the terminals are not disconnected during rapid charging, the diodes or regulator may be damaged.

5.

When steam cleaning, take care not to spray steam directly on the alternator.

6.

Set the brush holder upward when disassembling the alternator. Pulling the rotor without setting upward may sometimes break the brushes.

7.

If the L and B terminals are short-circuited during operation, the diode trio may be damaged.

8.

Do not connect a load over 1 A on the L terminal.

9.

Do not ground the L terminal while engine is operating.

10. Always use a fully charged battery.

Fig. 8-23 Charging system inspection 1.

Connect a voltmeter between the alternator L terminal and ground.

2.

If voltage if present between the L terminal and ground with the engine switch turned to OFF, the alternator is faulty.

3.

If the voltage is 0 V with the engine switch turned to ON, the alternator or wiring is faulty.

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System

Fig. 8-24 Output current check 1.

Remove the wire to the alternator B terminal.

2.

Connect an ammeter (over 40A) between the alternator B terminal and connector.

3.

Start the engine and rapidly increase the rpm to 2, 300. At this point, read the maximum value on the ammeter.

(At this time, switch all electric load to ON.) If the ammeter indicates more than 90 % of nominal out-put, the alternator is operating properly.

Fig. 8-25 No-load adjusted voltage check 1.

Remove the wire from the B terminal of the alternator.

2.

Connect an ammeter (over 40A) between the alternator B terminal and connector.

3.

Connect a voltmeter between the alternator L terminal and ground.

4.

Start the engine and increase the rpm to approximately 2000 rpm (turn unnecessary electric load to OFF).

5.

When the current in (4) is 5A or more, read the L termi-nal voltage (adjusted voltage).

Adjusted voltage 14.1 - 14.7V Fig. 8-26

Disassembly 1.

Remove the screws to separate the rear housing and stator (1 ) from the front housing and rotor (2).

To help separate the two pieces, insert a screwdriver into the groove provided between the front housing and sta-tor and joggle.

NOTE: Do not insert the screwdriver too deep, or the coil will be damaged.

2.

Remove the B terminal nuts.

3.

Remove three screws to separate the stator and brush holder assembly 3, from the rear housing 4.

Fig. 8-27

4.

To remove the wires for the stator and brush assembly, use a soldering iron.

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System 5.

First remove the pulley nuts, then remove the pulley and rotor from the front housing.

Fig. 8-28 Inspection

Fig. 8-29

Fig. 8-30 Check the following parts. Repair or replace if faulty.

1.

Starter coil 1) Check for continuity between lead wires and the core by using a circuit tester. No continuity indi-cates that it is normal.

2) Check for continuity between lead wires with a circuit tester. Continuity indicates that it is normal.

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System Fig. 8-31 2.

Rotor 1) Check for continuity between the core and slip rings with a circuit tester. No continuity indicates that it is normal.

2) Measure the resistance between both slip rings with an ohm meter.

Fig. 8-32 3. Rectifier 1) Use a tester to check the continuity of each rectifier. High resistance for one direction and low resistance for the reverse direction indicates that the rectifier is normal. Low resistance for both directions indi-cates that it is short-circuited, and high resistance for both directions indicates that it is open.

Fig. 8-33 4. Brushes and spring Check for burning and wear of the brushes.

Normal brush: 23mm (0.9 in.)

Wear limit: 8mm (0.3 in.)

Fig. 8-34 5. Bearings 1) Check the front and rear bearings for free rotation and for noisy rotation.

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System

Fig. 8-35

Fig. 8-36

Fig. 8-37 Assembly Reverse procedures to assemble, using the following information.

When installing the rotor in the rear housing, hold the brushes in proper position by inserting a wire through the hole in the rear housing.

SPARK PLUGS General Spark plug specifications 5174508-00 Yale Fig. 8-38 Inspection and adjustment 1.

Check the spark plugs at the following points. Replace if faulty.

•

Abnormal burning of the insulator

•

Damage to the insulator

•

Burning of the electrode

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System •

Carbon deposits

•

Damage and weakening of the gasket

2.

Clean the spark plug electrode with a plug cleaner.

3.

Measure the spark plug gap with a plug gap gauge.

Spark plug gap: 0.8 -0.7mm (0.032 -0.027 in.)

To adjust, bend the electrode slightly.

Fig. 8-39 Problem The starting motor does not turn or it is impossible to start the engine due to the low rotation speed.

Although the starting pinion turns, pinion does not engage the ring gear.

The starting motor continues to turn

1024 Possible Cause of Problem Battery and related parts ∗ Poor battery terminal contact ∗ Improper grounding of the negative cable ∗ Voltage drop due to discharged battery ∗ Insufficient voltage supplied to engine switch due to defective battery ∗ Poor starter switch contact ∗ Break in the starter switch wire connector ∗ Starter switch and solenoid not properly connected Solenoid switch and related parts ∗ Break in wire or connector ∗ Burning or poor contact of the solenoid switch contact plate ∗ Solenoid switch pull-in coil open ∗ Solenoid switch holding coil open or faulty starting motor ∗ Improper brush contact ∗ Weakened brush spring ∗ Improper field coil ground ∗ Field coil improperly soldered ∗ Defective commutator ∗ Armature grounded ∗ Worn parts ∗ Clutch pinion end is wearing ∗ Clutch drive spring damage ∗ Clutch spinning ∗ Improper spline slide ∗ Wearing of bushing ∗ Wearing of ring gear ∗ Solenoid switch contact plate sticks ∗ Solenoid switch coil short-circuit ∗ Improper return of ignition switch

Correction ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

Clean or tighten Clean or repair Charge Charge Replace Repair Repair or replace Repair Replace Replace Replace Match or replace Replace Replace Repair Repair Replace Replace Replace Replace Replace Match or repair Replace Replace Replace Replace Replace

Sheet 10: Engine Electrical System Battery discharging

∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗ ∗

V-belt slack Starter coil grounded or open Rotor coil open Poor contact of the brushes and slip rings Defective rectifier Faulty IC regulator operation Insufficient or improper battery electrolytic solution Defective battery electrode Poor battery terminal contact Electric load too high

Battery over-charging

∗

Defective IC regulator

Adjust ∗ Replace ∗ Replace ∗ Clean or replace ∗ Replace ∗ Replace ∗ Adjust ∗ Replace ∗ Clean or tighten ∗ Limit load to ∗ capacity Replace ∗

Sheet 11: User Support Information

USER SUPPORT INFORMATION STANDARD VALUES FOR MAINTENANCE Item Numbers and arrangement of cylinders Bore x Stroke Displacement Compression ratio Valve opening/closing timing Intake Exhaust Compression pressure

Valve clearance Valve side Cam side Cylinder head Valve seat Depth Amount (length)

Engine Model D5 In-line 4 cylinders 77.0 x 80.0mm(3.03 x 3.15 in.)

1490 cc (91 cu. in.)

9.0:1 Open (BTDC) Close (ABDC) Open (BBDC) Close (ATDC) Standard Limit Difference between cylinders

8° 55° 62° 8° 12.0 kg/cm 2 @ 300 rpm (170 psi @ 300 rpm) 7.35 kg/cm 2 @ 300 rpm (105 psi @ 300 rpm) 2.0 kg/cm 2 or less (30 psi or less)

Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust Height Distortion limit Grinding limit

0.25 mm (0.10 in.)

0.30 mm (0.012 in.)

0.18 mm (0.007in.)

0.22 mm (0.009 in.)

90.5 mm (3.56) 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)

0.20 mm (0.008 in.)

Intake

39.5 mm (1.56 in.)

41.0mm (1.61 in.)

39.5 mm (1.56 in.)

41.0mm (1.61 in.)

45° 45° 1.4 mm (0.055 in.)

1.4 mm (0.055 in.)

Standard Limit Standard Limit

Exhaust Valve seat angle Valve Seat Valve guide, valve, and valve spring Gap between the Standard valve stem and guide Limit Valve guide inside diameter Valve stem diameter

Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust

Valve head thickness Valve face angle Valve spring free length Valve spring squareness Rocker Arm and Shaft Gap between the arm and the shaft Rocker arm shaft diameter Rocker arm inside diameter Cam shaft Cam shaft deflection limit Cam shaft end play Journal oil clearance Oil clearance limit mm (in.)

Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust Standard Limit Standard Limit

Standard Limit No.1 No.2 No.3

Standard Limit Standard Limit

0.018-0.053mm (0.0007-0.0021 in.)

0.018-0.058mm (0.0007-0.0023 in.)

0.20mm (0.008 in.)

8.063-8.083mm (0.317-0.318 in.)

8.030-8.045mm (0.316-0.317 in.)

7.980mm (0.314 in.)

8.025-8.045mm (0.316-0.317 in.)

7.975mm (0.314 in.)

1.0mm (0.04 in.)

1.0mm (0.04 in.)

45° 45° 43.3mm (1.70 in.)

42.0mm (1.65 in.)

1.52mm (0.06 in.)

0.020-0.074mm (0.0008-0.0029 in.)

0.10mm (0.0039 in.)

18.959-18.980mm (0.7464-0.7472 in.)

19.000-19.033mm (0.7480-0.7493 in.)

0.03mm (0.0012 in.)

0.02-0.18mm (0.0008-0.0071 in.)

0.20mm (0.008 in.)

0.035-0.076mm (0.0014-0.0030 in.)

0.065-0.106mm (0.0026-0.0042 in.)

0.035-0.076mm (0.0014-0.0030 in.)

0.15mm (0.0060 in.)

Sheet 11: User Support Information Standard journal diameter

No. 1 No. 2 No. 3

Journal wear limit mm (in.)

Cam height mm (in.)

Intake Exhaust

Standard Limit Standard Limit

Connecting rod and bearing Length (distance between the holes) Bending Limit (for every 100 mm) (for every 4in) Small end diameter Clearance between the small end and piston pin Large end play Standard Limit Oil clearance on large end Standard Limit Bearing under-size Crank shaft and bearing Crank pin Standard Wearing Limit Main journal diameter Standard Wearing limit Main journal oil clearance Standard Limit Main bearing under-size Crank shaft deflection limit End play Standard Limit Thrust bearing over-size Cylinder block, piston, and piston pin Block surface distortion limit Cylinder boring diameter Standard Wearing limit Cylinder boring amount Piston diameter Gap between piston and cylinder Standard Limit Piston over-size Gap between piston ring Top ring and ring groove Second ring Limit Piston ring groove width Top ring Second ring Oil Ring Piston ring gap Top ring Second ring Oil Ring Limit Piston ring over-size Piston pin Diameter mm (in.)

Installation pressure

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Connecting rod cap Main bearing cap Crankshaft pulley Cylinder head bolt Cam shaft sprocket Oil pan Timing chain cover Oil pump sprocket Oil pressure switch

300-350 kg. cm. (22-25 ft. Ibs.) 660-710 kg. cm. (48-51 ft. Ibs.) 1600-1 700 kg. cm. (116-123 ft. Ibs.) 870-930 kg. cm. (63-67 ft. Ibs.) 710-800 kg. cm. (51-58 ft. Ibs.) 70-100 kg. cm. (5-7 ft. Ibs.) 190-260 kg. cm. (14-19 ft. Ibs.) 300-350 kg. cm. (22-25 ft. Ibs.) 1 20-180 kg. cm. (9-13 ft. Ibs.)

41.949-41.965mm (1.6515-1.6522 in.)

41.919-41.935mm (1.6504-1.6510 in.)

41.949-41.965mm (1.6515-1.6522 in.)

0.065mm (0.0026 in.)

44.114mm (1.7368 in.)

43.914mm (1.7289 in.)

44.114mm (1.7368 in.)

43.914mm (1.7289 in.)

135.95-1 36.05mm (5.352-5.356 in.)

0.054mm (0.0016 in.) or less 19.948-1 9.961 mm (0.7854-0.7859 in.)

0.013-0.032mm (0.0005-0.0013 in.)

0.110-0.262mm (0.0043-0.0103 in.)

0.30mm (0.012 in.)

0.024-0.048mm (0.0009-0.0019 in.)

0.10mm (0.0039 in.)

0.25, 0.5O, 0.75mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

39.940-39.955mm (1.5724-1.5573 in.)

39.89mm (1.5705 in.)

49.940-49.955mm (1.9661-1.9667 in.)

49.89mm (1.9642 in.)

0.023-0.042mm (0.0009-0.0017 in.)

0.08mm (0.003 in.)

0.25, 0.5O, 0.70mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

0.03mm (0.0012 in.)

0.10-0.15mm (0.004-0.006 in.)

0.30mm (0.012 in.)

0.25, 0.50, 0.70mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)

0.15mm (0.006 in.)

77.000-77.019mm (3.0315-3.0322 in.)

0.15mm (0.006 in.)

0.25, 0.50mm (0.01, 0.02 in.)

76.934-76.959mm (3.0289-3.0299 in.)

0.054-0.067mm (0.0021-0.0026 in.)

0.15mm (0.006 in.)

0.25, 0.50mm (0.01, 0.02 in.)

0.3-0.65mm (0.012-0.026 in.)

0.3-0.65mm (0.012-0.026 in.)

0.15mm (0.006 in.)

1.47-1.49mm (0.058-0.059 in.)

1.47-1.49mm (0.058-0.059 in.)

4.02-4.032mm (0.1582-0.1587 in.)

0.2-0.4mm (0.008-0.016 in.)

0.2-0.4mm (0.008-0.016 in.)

0.3-0.9mm (0.012-0.035 in.)

1.0mm (0.04 in.)

0.25, 0.50mm (0.01, 0.02 in.)

19.976-19.988mm (0.7865-0.7869 in.)

500-1500 kg. (1100-3300 Ibs.)

Sheet 11: User Support Information Water pump

190-260 kg. cm. (14-19 ft. Ibs.)

SPECIAL TOOL LIST

PERIODIC INSPECTION Inspect the engine periodically to obtain the optimum performance from the engine and related parts. Adjust, clean or replace parts when necessary. Carry out periodic inspection in accordance with the table below.

Inspection Items

Head bolt torque inspection Valve clearance inspection and adjustment

Daily Or Every 8 Hours

Initially Every 100 Every 200 Every 300 Every 400 Every 600 Every Every 50 Hours See Hours or Hours Hours or 2 Hours or 3 1200 Hours See Note Monthly Months Months Hours or 6 Note See Note Months X X O

Sheet 11: User Support Information Fan belt tension adjustment Oil level inspection Engine oil replacement Oil filter replacement Cooling water inspection (in reserve tank) Cooling water replacement and radiator cleaning Air cleaner (dust pan and element) cleaning Air cleaner replacement Fuel tank drain and clean Fuel filter replacement Spark plug inspection and adjustment Distributor inspection and adjustment Battery fluid specific gravity measurement Battery fluid level and terminal inspection Timing belt

X

O

O X X

O O

O Once every two years S

O S

Once every year O O O O O Inspect and replace every two years

NOTE: It is necessary to carry out the procedure marked with X for a new engine or initial maintenance after an engine overhaul. The letter S indicates a service interval when truck is used in a high dust area or under severe operating conditions. The letter O indicates normal servicing intervals.

O

Sheet 1: General Information GENERAL INFORMATION SUPPORT INFORMATION Your new Yale Industrial Truck is important to you and to your dealer for Yale lift trucks. You measure the return on the investment in your lift truck through the performance of those lift trucks, the drivers who operate them and the mechanics who service them safely and efficiently. The following information and programs are made to help fill your needs: SERVICE PARTS ORDERING INSTRUCTIONS How To Order Service Parts In order to prevent delay, and to have your orders filled correctly, quickly and at the lowest cost, do the following procedure to order replacement parts.

When Ordering Parts Your authorized dealer for Yale lift trucks needs the following information: 1. Your Purchase Order number.

2. Complete addresses for sending the invoice and parts.

3. Tell us how you want your parts sent. If we do not get this information, we will send the parts using the lowest priced method.

4. Correct part numbers and descriptions. Use your parts manual as a reference.

5. Model and serial number of the lift truck.

SPECIAL TOOLS Yale makes a variety of special tools for servicing lift trucks. They are available to users who do their own maintenance. Your dealer for Yale lift trucks is ready to help.

TECHNICAL SERVICE PUBLICATIONS Technical literature, with detailed information, is available at a nomonal fee to assist users to effectively maintain Yale Industrial Trucks in a safe, useful condition.

Parts Manuals with complete replacement parts identification, Operators Manuals which provide operating procedures and additional copies of this Service Maintenance Manual can be obtained from your Yale Industrial Truck Dealer.

OPERATOR TRAINING The Yale "Basic Operator Training' program helps industrial truck users increase their materials handling production and safety through correct lift truck operation, training and motivation. The Yale program is based upon real life experience - not theoretical concepts. We developed a "complete' program that is totally self-contained incorporating the most modern instructional techniques, including elements of self-study, audio-visual support (both video and slides), and classroom study.

DAILY OPERATOR CHECK-OFF LISTS According to OSHA requirements, lift truck operators must examine their industrial trucks before each shift of operation. The OPERATOR'S DAILY CHECK LIST can help operators comply with the these OSHA regulations and give a fast easy inspection system that can be completed efficiently. A sample of the OPERATOR'S DAILY CHECK LIST is shown on the following page.

SERVICE TRAINING COURSES Operators and dealer for Yale lift trucks service technicians can improve their technical ability for maintaining and

Sheet 1: General Information repairing Yale Industrial Trucks and decrease repair time and cost by taking the Yale Service Training courses.

Different types of mechanical, electric and electronic subjects are available. Courses are available at customer and Dealer locations in addition to regularly scheduled courses which are held at Yale Headquarters in Flemington, New Jersey.

SERVICE TRAINING MATERIALS Your own service training is supported through a complete line of Yale Service Training materials. An index is available from your dealer for Yale lift trucks which lists textbooks, audio-visual programs and films. These materials will provide your Trainer with everything necessary for training your group.

Sheet 1: General Information

SAFETY AND OPERATIONAL CHECK LIST NOTE: This daily check list is available for the operator. Some items on this list may not be applicable to your truck.

This convenient check list is in tablet form and can be ordered through your dealer for Yale lift trucks.

Form Number 944-6419-A.

Sheet 2: Electrical System ELECTRICAL SYSTEM This section contains the following information: •

Description and the schematics for the instrument panel. See Figure 10-1. through Figure 10-3. Also see Table 2.

•

Description and the schematics for the light options. See Figure 10-4. and the wiring schematics.

•

Schematics for the sensors and control functions for the gasoline and LPG systems.

See the ENGINE MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the description, repair procedures, and schematics of the electrical components in the engine compartment.

INSTRUMENT PANEL, DESCRIPTION The instrument panel has a series of gauges and indicator lights that can give the operator information about the condition of the lift truck and its systems. A list of the gauges and indicator lights and their operation is shown in Table 2.

Figure 10-1. Instrument Panel Legend for Figure 10-1.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

SWITCH FOR LIGHTS OPTION PARKING BRAKE LEVER DIRECTION CONTROL LEVER STEERING WHEEL HORN TURN SIGNAL LEVER LATCH FOR TILT STEERING COLUMN KEY SWITCH

Sheet 2: Electrical System 9. HOURMETER 10. COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE 11. FUEL GAUGE (GASOLINE ONLY) 12. WARNING LIGHT, ENGINE OIL PRESSURE 13. WARNING LIGHT, ALTERNATOR 14. WARNING LIGHT, TRANSMISSION OIL TEMPERATURE 15. WARNING LIGHT, LOW COOLANT OPTION 16. WARNING LIGHT, BRAKE FLUID LEVEL 17. WARNING LIGHT, AIR FILTER RESTRICTION OPTION 18. WARNING LIGHT, FASTEN SEAT BELT 19. SWITCH, SPOT LIGHT OPTION

ITEM NO. 1

ITEM Switch for Lights Option

There is a rocker switch to the left of the steering column for the control for the front and rear lights option. The center position is OFF. The top and bottom positions control lights as shown on the switch.

2

Parking Brake Lever

3

Direction Control Lever

The lift truck is equipped with a lever to apply the parking brake. Pull the lever to apply the parking brake. Use your thumb on the button at the top of the lever to move the lever forward and release the parking brake.

NOTE: There is a switch in the seat that actuates an audible buzzer. If the operator leaves the seat without applying the parking brake, the buzzer will be ON for 10 seconds.

CAUTION Correct adjustment is necessary to provide adequate braking. See SECTION 5 BRAKE SYSTEM for adjustment procedures.

Always apply the parking brake when leaving the lift truck.

The direction control lever for the transmission can be on the left, right or both sides of the steering column. This direction control lever has three positions: FORWARD (F), NEUTRAL (N) and REVERSE(R). Move the lever to one of the direction positions for travel. The direction control lever must be in the NEUTRAL (N) position before the engine can be started.

NOTE: There is a switch in the seat that actuates a buzzer. If the operator leaves the seat with the key switch ON and the lever is not in NEUTRAL, the buzzer will pulse ON and OFF for 10 second.

4 5 6

FUNCTION

The steering wheel controls the position of the steer tires.

The horn button, in the center of the steering wheel, controls the operation of the horn.

Horn Tun Signal Lever

The turn signal lever controls the operation of the turn signals.

Move the lever toward the front of the lift truck to operate the left-hand turn signal. Move the lever to the rear of the lift truck to operate the right-hand turn signal.

Sheet 2: Electrical System 7

Latch for Tilt Steering Column

A latch on the upper right side of the steering column permits the operator to select different positions for the steering wheel.

Raise the latch to release the steering column. Move the steering column to the selected position. Release the latch to lock the steering column in position.

8

Key Switch

9

Hourmeter

The key switch is on the right side of the steering column near the cowl. The key switch has three positions: No. 1 Position: OFF position. Deenergizes all electric circuits except for the horn.

No. 2 Position: ON position. Energizes all electrical circuits except the starter circuit. The key switch will be in this position during normal operation.

No. 3 Position: START position. Energizes the starter motor for starting the engine. A spring returns the key to position No. 2 (ON position) when the key is released.

NOTE: There is a mechanical lock that prevents the key switch from being returned to the START position without first being returned to the OFF position.

The hourmeter operates when the key switch is in the ON position. Periodic Maintenance recommendations are based on these hours.

10

Coolant Temperature Gauge

This gauge indicates engine coolant temperature when the key switch is in the ON position. During normal operation the gauge needle will be in the green area. The sending unit for the coolant temperature gauge is in the cylinder head. If the temperature gauge does not indicate correctly, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or gauge. To check the wiring, see the diagrams in this section.

Caution Do not continue to operate the lift truck when the gauge indicates that the engine is too hot (needle in the red zone).

11

Fuel Gauge (Gasoline Only)

This gauge indicates the amount of fuel in the fuel tank. The sending unit for the fuel gauge is in the fuel tank. If the fuel gauge does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or gauge. To check the wiring, see the diagrams in this section.

Sheet 2: Electrical System 12

Warning Light, Engine Oil Pressure

The red light is ON when the key switch is in the ON position and must go OFF when the engine is running. The sending unit for the warning light is in the engine block. If the warning light dos not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or light.

CAUTION Stop the engine immediately if the red light is ON while the engine is running.

13

Warning Light, Alternator

The light will be ON when the key switch is ON and the engine is not running. The light must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light does not function correctly, check the alternator as described in the ENGINE MAINTENANCE MANUAL

14

Warning Light, Transmission Oil Temperature

The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. The sending unit for the temperature light is at the bottom of the transmission housing, on the front side. If the temperature light does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or light.

CAUTION Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the red light is ON.

15

Warning Light Option, Coolant Level in the Radiator

The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the level of the coolant in the radiator is too low. The sending unit for the warning light is in the top of the radiator. If the light does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or light.

CAUTION Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the light is ON during operation.

16

Warning Light, Brake Fluid Level

The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the brake fluid level in the reservoir is low. There is a float in the master cylinder that actuates the warning light. If the light does not work, check the wiring, the master cylinder or replace the light.

CAUTION Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the light is ON during operation.

Sheet 2: Electrical System 17

Indicator Light Option, Air Filter Restriction

The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the air cleaner has a restriction and needs cleaning. The sending unit for the light is in the canister for the air filter. If the light does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or light

18

Warning Light, Fasten Seat Belt

The red light is ON for ten seconds anytime the key switch is put in the ON position. This warning light is activated by a switch in the seat. If the light does not work correctly, check the switch, wiring or replace the circuit board.

WARNING Always fasten the seat belt when operating the lift truck.

19

Optional Spot Light Switch

The switch for the optional spot light is near the center of the right-hand side of the cowl at the bottom.

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-2. Instrument Panel Indicator Lights And Gauges Legend for Figure 10-2.

1. MOUNT BRACKET 2. WIRE HARNESS 3. GAUGE HOOD 4. GAUGE BODY 5. GLASSANDSEAL 6. PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD 7. WINDOW PLATE 8. METAL BACK PLATE 9. LIGHT BULB 10. SOCKET

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-3. Wiring Diagram For Instrument Panel Gauges And Lights INSTRUMENT PANEL, REMOVAL (See Figure 10-2.)

CAUTION Prevent damage to electrical components. Disconnect the negative battery cable before doing repairs.

The instrument panel unit can be removed to install a new gauge or a new light bulb. The metal back plate (8) must be removed for access to the sockets that hold the light bulbs for the warning and illumination lights. Remove and disassemble the unit as follows: 1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the two screws and nuts that fasten the mount bracket (1) to the cowl.

3. Disconnect the three wire connectors. Carefully lift the unit up through the hole in the panel.

NOTE: Do NOT lift the plastic tabs to remove the hood unless the gauges need replacing. The fuel and coolant temperature gauges are fastened the printed circuit board (6) with nuts. The hour meter is fastened to the body with finger nuts near the connector.

4. Remove the five screws that fasten the metal back plate (8) to the gauge body (4).

Sheet 2: Electrical System 5. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove the socket and light bulb from the printed circuit board.

6. Replace parts in the instrument panel as necessary.

INSTRUMENT PANEL, INSTALLATION (See Figure 10-2.)

LIGHTS 1. Install the parts in the instrument panel that were removed or replaced. If the hood was removed, make sure the seal is installed correctly around the glass (5) 50 that water does not leak into the gauges.

2. Make sure the back plate (8) is correctly aligned for installation of the wire connectors.

3. Install the instrument panel in the lift truck. Connect the wire connectors. Install and tighten the two screws and nuts that hold the instrument panel in the lift truck.

4. Connect the battery. Check that the gauges and indicators operate as described in Table 2.

WARNING Do not weld mounts for lights or accessories to the legs of the overhead guard. The strength of the overhead guard can be reduced by welding or heat-mg.

This series of lift trucks can be equipped with a combination of driving lights. See Figure 10-4.

A light switch and the turn signal lever are on the steering column. The spot light switch is on the instrument panel below the indicator light set. The fuse panel is found on the right side of the cowl. See

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-4. Wiring Arrangement For Lights Legend for Figure 10-4.

1.

2.

3.

4.

FRONT DRIVING LIGHTS STOP TAIL, TURN AND REVERSE LIGHT SPOTLIGHT SIDE LIGHT/FLASHER LIGHT

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-5. Wiring Diagram For The Lights And Instrument Panel Legend for Figure 10-5.

1. ROCKER SWITCH

Sheet 2: Electrical System 2. KEY SWITCH 3. CONTROLLER (COOLANT LEVEL) 4. INSTRUMENT PANEL 5. FUSE BOX 6. FUSES 7. FUSE COVER 8. HORN 9. STOP LIGHT SWITCH 10. TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT 11. BUZZER 12. CONTROLLER 13. RELAYS 14. RELAY HOLDER 15. PARKING BRAKE SWITCH

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-6. Schematic Diagram, Lift Trucks With FE Engine

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-7. Wiring Diagram, Lift Trucks With Yale FE Engine

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-8. Schematic Diagram, Lift Trucks With FE Engine And Fire Hazard Classification

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Sheet 2: Electrical System

Figure 10-9. Wiring Diagram, Lift Trucks With Yale FE Engine And Fire Hazard Classification

Sheet 3: Frame Parts FRAME PARTS This section describes repairs and adjustments to certain parts and components of the frame. Make sure the Warnings and Cautions are followed when doing these repairs and adjustments.

The frame is weldment and includes the hydraulic tank and the feul tank for gasoline or deisel feul.

There is a counterweight for each capacity of lift truck. The counterweights are similar, but are different weights.

The muffler is fastened to the frame inside of the counterweight.

An operator module is installed on the frame with rubber mounts. The overhead guard, steering controls, instrument panel and the hood and seat are installed on the operator module.

The hood is connected to the operator module with hinges. The floor plates arnd side access doors can be removed for access to the engine, transmission and other components.

Figure 11-1. Frame and Operator Module Legend for Figure 11-1.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

OPERATOR MODULE LOCKNUT ASSEMBLY WASHER RUBBER MOUNT STEERING AXEL MOUNT FRAME

Sheet 3: Frame Parts 7. DRIVE AXEL RETAINER CAP WARNING The lift truck must be put on blocks for some types of maintenance and repair. The removal of the fol-lowing assemblies will cause large changes in the center of gravity: mast, drive axle, engine, and transmission, and the counterweight. When the lift truck is put on blocks, put additional blocks in the following positions to maintain stability: Before removing the mast and drive axle, put blocks under the counterweight so that the lift truck can not fall backward.

Before removing the counterweight, put blocks under the mast assembly so that the lift truck can not fall forward.

The surface must be solid, even, and level when the lift truck is put on blocks. Make sure that any blocks used to support the lift truck are solid, one piece units. See the OPERATOR'S MANUAL or the SEC-TION 2.

OPERATOR MODULE Removal (See Figure 11-1.)

1.

Remove the hood and side covers.

2.

Remove the three capscrews that hold the hydraulic control valve to the mounting bracket.

3. cowl.

Remove the steering housing from the cowl. Remove the capscrews that hold the parking brake lever to the

4.

Remove the nuts at the mounts for the operator module.

5.

Connect a lifting device to the overhead guard. The overhead guard and module weigh approximately 385 kg (850 lb). Lift the operator module from the frame.

NOTE: The module is supported by two different types of rubber mounts. Make sure to mark the mounts for proper installation.

Installation (See Figure 11-land Figure 11-2.)

1.

Make sure the rubber mounts are installed in the frame. One mount does not have any marking on it and is installed at the right rear of the module. The three mounts with "UP' on one side are installed at the left rear and both front positions of the module. Make sure that "UP' faces upward. See Figure 11-2.

2.

Connect a lifting device to the overhead guard. The overhead guard and module weigh approximately 385 kg (850 lb). Lift the operator module onto the frame.

3.

Install the large flat washers and locknuts. Use the fol-lowing procedure to tighten the locknuts: a.

Tighten the bottom locknut until it just touches the flat washer. Do not compress the rubber mount.

b.

While holding the bottom nut, tighten the top nut to 36 Nm (27 lbf ft).

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-2. Module Mounts

Legend for Figure 11-2.

1.

2.

3.

4.

LOCKNUT,TOP LOCKNUT, BOTTOM RUBBER MOUNT, LEFT REAR AND TWO FRONT WASHER

4.

Install the hydraulic control valve.

5.

Install the hood and side covers.

6.

Install the steering controls and the parking brake lever.

7.

Install the floor plates.

NOTE: The air inlet for the gasoline/LPG air filter is installed in the left-hand side of the module. Make sure the grill is installed with the louvers pointed downward.

CHANGES TO THE OVERHEAD GUARD WARNING Do not operate the lift truck without the overhead guard correctly fastened to the lift truck.

Changes that are made by welding, or by drilling holes that are too big or in the wrong location, can reduce the strength of the overhead guard.

Removal and Installation Connect a crane or lifting device to remove or install the overhead guard. Disconnect any wires between the frame and the overhead guard. When the overhead guard is lifted from the frame, make sure any electric wires are moved through the holes in the frame so that they are not damaged. There are two bolts at each front corner and two bolts and locknuts at each rear corner of the overhead guard. Tighten the overhead guard mount-ing bolts to 65 Nm (48 lbf ft.)

COUNTERWEIGHT The counterweight is held in position on the frame by two hooks that are part of the frame. Two M24 x 3 x 100 cap-screws hold the counterweight to the lower part of the frame.

WARNING The counterweight is very heavy. Make sure that the crane and lifting devices have enough lifting capac-ity to safely lift the counterweight. See the following table.

Sheet 3: Frame Parts TABLE 1. WEIGHT OF COUNTERWEIGHTS MODEL GP16 GP2O

kg 934 1194

lb 2059 2633

Removal WARNING LPG can cause an explosion. Do not cause sparks or permit flammable material near the LPG system. LPG fuel systems can be disconnected indoors only if the lift truck is at least 8 metres (25 feet) from any open flame, motor vehicles, electrical equipment, or ignition source. Close the shut-off valve on the LPG tank before any part of the engine fuel system is disconnected. Run the engine until the fuel in the system is used and the engine stops.

If the engine will not run, close the shut-off valve on the LPG tank. Loosen the fitting on the supply hose from the LPG tank where it enters the filter unit. Per-mit the pressure in the fuel system to decrease slowly.

Fuel leaving the fitting is cold. Use a cloth to protect your hands from the cold fitting.

1.

If the lift truck has an LPG fuel system, remove the LPG tank and bracket so that the counterweight can be removed. Additional information on the LPG fuel system can be found in the engine

Figure 11-3. Counterweight

Legend for Figure 11-3.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

COUNTERWEIGHT CAPSCREW (M24 X 3 X 100) LOCKWASHER WASHER TOW PIN LIFTING HOLE SEAL SHIM NUT LOCKWASHER WASHER CAP

Sheet 3: Frame Parts 2.

Use the following procedure to remove the LPG tank: a.

LPG tanks can be removed and installed indoors only if the lift truck is at least 8 meters (25 feet) from any flame or ignition source.

b.

Move the lift truck to the area where tanks are changed.

c.

Turn the shut-off valve clockwise until the valve is completely closed.

d.

Run the engine until it stops, then turn the key switch to the OFF position.

e.

Disconnect the quick disconnect fitting.

f.

Release the LPG tank latch and remove the tank from the bracket.

3.

If an overhead exhaust is installed, remove it as shown in Figure 11-7.

4.

See Figure 11-3. Install a lifting eye in the lifting hole of the counterweight. Connect a crane to the lifting eye and raise the crane until it holds part of the weight of the counterweight. Remove the capscrew that holds the counterweight to the frame. Use the crane to lift the counterweight from the lift truck. Put the counterweight on the floor so that it has stability and will not fall over.

Installation (See Figure 11-4.)

1.

Install the shims on the mounts. When the counter-weight is installed, make sure the hooks on the frame ful-ly engage the counterweight so that it is aligned with the parts of the frame. Use the shims to obtain a space of 7.5 to 10.5 mm (0.30 to 0.41 in) between the counterweight and the overhead guard leg. Tighten the M24 x 3 cap-screw to 555 Nm (409 lbf ft).

Access to the counterweight capscrews is through the opening at the rear of the counterweight. See Figure 11-3. or Figure 11-4.

2.

If the lift truck has an LPG fuel system, install the bracket for the LPG tank. Use the following procedure to install the LPG tank: a.

Before the LPG tank is installed on the lift truck, make sure the tank has fuel in it. Check the op-eration of the fuel gauge. Look at the fuel gauge and move the tank. If the gauge needle does not move, a new tank must be installed.

b.

Put the tank in the tank bracket. Make sure that the tank is aligned with the alignment pin.

c.

Close the latch.

d.

Connect the quick disconnect fitting to the shut-off valve on the tank. Use your hand to tighten the fitting. Do not open the shut-off valve until the quick disconnect fitting is completely tight-ened. Turn the shut-off valve counterclockwise to open the valve.

e. Inspect the fuel system for leaks when the shut-off valve is open. Frost on the surface of the tank, valves or fittings or a strong door indicates leak-age.

3.

If the lift truck has an overhead exhaust, install it as shown in Figure 11-7.

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-4. Installation Of The Counterweight

Legend for Figure 11-4.

1.

2.

3.

SHIM RUBBER SEAL CAPSCREW

EXHAUST SYSTEM The muffler is installed inside the cavity of the counter-weight. A short exhaust pipe sends the exhaust gases from the lift truck through the grille in the counterweight.

The lift truck can have an overhead exhaust system. The exhaust pipe is fastened to the top of the counter-weight.

See Figure 11-7.

Muffler (See Figure 11-5.)

The counterweight must be removed to repair or install a new muffler or other parts of the exhaust system. See Figure 11-5. When connecting the exhaust pipe to the engine do the following: a. On the units with the FE engine, tighten the ex-haust pipe nuts o 16to23 Nm (l2to l7lbfft). On units with the DS engine, tighten the exhaust pipe nuts to 32 to 47 Nm (24 to 35 lb ft) b. On units with the XA engine, tighten the exhaust pipe nuts to 32 to 47 Nm (24 to 35 lb ft). c. On units with overhead exhaust, tighten the capscrews that hold the vertical pipe to the coun-terweighttolstol8Nm (l33tolS9lbfin). Install the cover.

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-5. Exhaust System (Gasoline And LPG)

Legend for Figure 11-5.

1. MUFFLER 2. CLAMP 3. CAPSCREW 4. NUT 5. WASHER 6. WASHER 7. RUBBER CUSHION 8. PIPE 9. TAlL PIPE 10. GASKET 11. COVER 12. SHIELD 13. RUBBER CAP

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-6. Exhaust System (Diesel) Legend for Figure 11-6.

1. MUFFLER 2. CLAMP 3. CAPSCREW 4. NUT 5. WASHER 6. WASHER 7. RUBBER CUSHION 8. PIPE 9. GASKET 10. RUBBER CAP 11. TAILPIPE

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-7. Overhead Exhaust Legend for Figure 11-7.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

TUBE TAlL PIPE CAPSCREW LOCKWASHER WASHER COVER CLAMP

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-8. Exhaust System (Low Emissions) Legend for Figure 11-8.

1. ADAPTER 2. LOCKWASHER 3. NUT 4. SPACER 5. SEAL 6. CAPSCREW 7. SPRING 8. PLUG (RAW GAS CHECK PORT) 9. WASHER 10. BRACKET 11. EXHAUSTPIPE 12. NUT 13. WASHER 14. NUT 15. CLAMP 16. MUFFLER 17. RUBBERWASHER 18. CUSHION 19. WASHER 20. CAPSCREW 21. TAILPIPE 22. TAlL PIPE (LPS) 23. GASKET 24. GASKET 25. GASKET 26. CATALYTIC CONVERTER 27. COVER

Sheet 3: Frame Parts 28. EXHAUST PIPE RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM WARNING DO NOT remove the radiator cap while it is hot. Hot coolant and steam can cause burns.

Removal (See Figure 11-9.)

1.

Use the drain valve and drain the coolant from the ra-diator. Remove the bottom radiator hose and drain the coolant from the engine.

2.

Remove the capscrews that fasten the fan to the hub. Remove the capscrews that hold the fan shroud to the radiator. Remove both the fan and the fan shroud.

3.

Disconnect the top coolant hose at the radiator. Dis-connect the lines to the oil cooler in the side of the radia-tor. Put caps on the open lines and ports. Remove the capscrews that hold the radiator to the frame. Remove the radiator.

Figure 11-9. Cooling System

Legend for Figure 11-9.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

AUXILIARY COOLANT RESERVOIR RADIATOR CAP RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE SHROUD

Installation (See Figure 11-9.)

Sheet 3: Frame Parts 1.

Install the radiator. Install the fan and fan shroud in position on the radiator. Install the capscrews that hold the fan shroud. Install the capscrews that fasten the fan to the hub.

2.

Connect the upper coolant hoses at the radiator. Con-nect the lines for transmission oil to the oil cooler in the radiator.

HOOD ASSEMBLY (See Figure 11-11.)

The operator's seat is fastened to the upper hood panel. This upper hood panel opens forward for access to the engine compartment. Two hinges fasten the upper hood panel to the front plate weldment of the engine compart-ment. A latch mechanism with a push knob holds the up-per hood panel in position during operation of the lift truck. See Figure 11-11. and Figure 11-10.

WARNING The hood and hood latch must be correctly adlusted for the correct operation of the operator restraint system.

A torsion spring is fastened between the front plate weldment and the upper hood panel to help personnel when opening and closing the hood. Sound absorbing materials are fastened inside the hood panels to reduce noise during operation.

Installation And Adjustment Procedure This procedure describes the installation and adjust-ment of the hood assembly if it was removed from the lift truck during repairs to the engine and transmission. The parts described in this procedure are shown in Figure 11-11.

1.

Install the front panel weldment (19), but do not tight-en the four capscrews.

2.

If the hinges (2) were removed from the upper hood panel (3), install them. Do not tighten the capscrews.

3.

Install the latch hook (15) if it was removed.

4.

Install the upper hood panel (3) in position on the front plate weldment. Connect the torsion spring (9). Install the hinge pins. Install the rod (11).

5.

Close the upper hood panel (3) until the rubber cush-ions (5) are against the rear crossmember of the engine compartment. Align the edge of the upper hood panel (3) with the rear crossmember of the engine compart-ment. Tighten the capscrews for the hinges.

6.

When the upper hood panel is fully closed, check that the latch fully engages the latch hook. If the latch does not engage correctly, add or remove washers (shims) as necessary to adjust the latch assembly. When the ad-justment is correct, tighten the capscrews that hold the latch assembly.

7.

If the hinges (10,12) were removed from the engine compartment, install them but do not tighten the bolts.

8.

Install the access doors (17, 20) on the hinges. Close the access doors. Adjust the stop bolts and front panel (19) 50 that the front plate is even from side to side and the access doors will engage the tabs. Tighten the cap-screws on the front panel. Tighten the jam nuts on the stop bolts.

9.

Adjust the hinges (10,12) 50 that the front edges of the access doors are even with front panel (19). Tighten the bolts for the hinges. Install washers (shims) as nec-essary so that the access doors are against the hood seal (1) when the access doors are closed.

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-10. Hood Assembly Legend for Figure 11-10.

1. LATCHASSEMBLY 2. PUSH KNOB 3. LATCH HOOK 4. LATCH (ENGAGED) 5. LATCH (DISENGAGED) 6. SHIMS AS NECESSARY 7. UPPER HOOD PANEL 8. FRONT PLATE 9. REAR CROSSMEMBER OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT 10. TORSION SPRING 11. STOP BOLT 12. FRONT CROSSMEMBER OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT

Sheet 3: Frame Parts

Figure 11-11. Hood Arrangement Legend for Figure 11-11.

1. TRIM 2. HOOD HINGE 3. HOOD 4. WASHER 5. RUBBER CUSHION 6. WASHER 7. CAPSCREW 8. SNAP PIN 9. TORSION SPRING 10. HINGE MOUNT (RH) 11. SUPPORT ROD 12. HINGE MOUNT (LH) 13. LATCHASSEMBLY 14. SPACER 15. LATCH

Sheet 3: Frame Parts 16. LATCH STRIKER 17. ACCESS DOOR (LH) 18. HINGE PIN 19. FRONT PANEL 20. ACCESS DOOR (RH) Industrial Trucks WELDING REPAIRS Some repairs require welding. If an acetylene or arc welder is used, make sure to read and follow the follow-mg WARNINGs and CAUTIONs. WARNING Make sure there is no fuel, oil, or grease near the weld area. Make sure there is good ventilation in the area where the welding must be done.

Do not heat, weld, or bend forks. Forks are made of special steel using special methods. Get informa-tion from your dealer for Hyster lift trucks before welding on an mast.

WARNING Forklift frames and components may be painted with a catalyzed paint such as polyurethane or a two-part primer. Welding, burning, or other heat sufficient to cause thermal decomposition of the paint may release isocyanates. These chemicals are allergic sensitizers to the skin and respiratory tract and overexposure may occur without odor warning. Should work be performed, utilize good industrial hygiene practices including removal of all paint (prime and finish coats) to the metal around the area to be welded, local ventilation, and/or supplied-air respiratory protection.

CAUTION When an arc welder is used, always disconnect the ground cable from the battery in the lift truck. This action will prevent damage to the alternator or the battery.

Connect the ground clamp for the arc welder as close as possible to the weld area. This action will prevent damage to a bearing from the large current from the welder.

NOTE: Special procedures for cleaning and welding fuel or hydraulic tanks are necessary. Carefully follow the procedures in FUEL AND HYDRAULIC TANKS as described below.

FUEL AND HYDRAULIC TANKS WARNING Special procedures must be followed when large leaks or other repairs need welding or cutting. All work must be done by authorized personnel. If the tank is cleaned inside a building, make sure that there is enough ventilation. See the following manu-als for additional information: "Safe Practices For Welding And Cutting Containers That Have Held Combustibles" by the American Welding Society, A6.O-65.

"Safety In Welding And Cutting", American National Standard, ANSI Z 49.1 - 1973.

WARNING Do not use tools that can make sparks, heat or static electricity. The vapors in the tank can cause an ex-plosion.

Inspection Make a visual inspection of all sides of the tank. Inspect the welds for cracks and leakage. Check for wet areas, accumulation of dirt, and loose or missing paint caused by leakage. Areas of the tank that are not easily seen can be checked with an inspection mirror and a light that is approved for locations with flammable vapors.

Repairs, Small Leaks Use steam to clean the area around the leak. Remove all paint and dirt around the leak. Apply Loctite) 290 to the

Sheet 3: Frame Parts leak. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer.

Repairs, Large Leaks Use one of the cleaning procedures to prepare the tank for repairs. Contact your dealer for Hyster lift trucks for welding instructions. Use acceptable welding practices to repair the tank. See the American National Standard Safety In Welding And Cutting ANSI Z 49.1 - 1973.

Cleaning, Steam Method When cleaning with steam, use a hose with a minimum diameter of 19 mm (0.75 inch). Control the pressure of the steam by a valve installed at the nozzle of the hose. If a metal nozzle is used, it must be made of a material that does not make sparks. Make an electrical connection between the nozzle and the tank. Connect a ground wire to the tank to prevent static electricity.

1.

Remove all the parts from the tank. Install the drain plug.

2.

Fill the tank 1/4 full with a solution of water and sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate. Mix 0.5 kg (1 lb) per 4 liters (1 gal) of water.

3.

Mix the solution in the tank using air pressure. Make sure that all the surfaces on the inside of the tank are flushed with the solution. Drain the tank.

4.

Put steam into the tank until the tank does not have odors and the metal is hot. Steam vapors must come from all the openings.

5.

Flush the inside of the tank with boiling water. Make sure that all the loose material is removed from the in-side of the tank.

6.

Make an inspection of the inside of the tank. If it is not clean, repeat Steps d and e and make another in-spection. When making inspections, use a light that is approved for locations with flammable vapors.

7.

Put plugs in all the openings in the tank. Wait 15 min-utes, then remove the inlet and outlet plugs. Test a sample of the vapor with a special indicator for gas va-pors. If the amount of flammable vapors is above the lower flammable limit, repeat the cleaning procedures.

Cleaning, Chemical Solution Method WARNING When cleaning the tank, do not use solutions that make dangerous gases at normal temperatures or when heated. Wear eye and face protection. Protect the body from burns.

1.

Mix a solution of water and trisodium phosphate or a cleaning compound with an alkali base. Follow the in-structions given by the manufacturer.

2.

Fill the tank with the cleaning solution. Use com-pressed air to mix the solution in the tank.

3.

Drain the tank. Flush the inside of the tank with hot (boiling) water. Make sure that all the cleaning com-pound is removed.

4.

Make an inspection of the inside of the tank. If the tank is not clean, repeat Steps 1 through 3. Make another inspection of the tank. When making inspec-tions, use a light that is approved for locations with flammable vapors.

5.

Check the tank for flammable vapors using special indicator for gas vapors. If the amount of flammable va-pors is not below the lower flammable limit, repeat the cleaning procedures.

Additional Preparations For Repairs If nitrogen gas or carbon dioxide gas is available, prepare the tank for welding using these gases. See the manual Safe Practices For Welding and Cutting Containers That Have Held Combustibles by the American Welding Society, A6.0-65. If these gases are not available, another method using water can be used as follows: 1.

Fill the tank with water to just below the point where the work will be done. Make sure that the space above the level of the water has a vent.

Sheet 3: Frame Parts 2.

Use acceptable welding practices to repair the tank. See the American National Standard "Safety in Weld-mg and Cutting,' ANSI Z 49.1 - 1973.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 GENERAL LIFT TRUCK MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE This section contains a MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE and the instructions for maintenance and inspection.

The MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE has time intervals for inspection, lubrication and maintenance for your lift truck.

The service intervals are given in both operating hours recorded on the lift truck hourmeter and in calendar time. Use the interval that occurs first.

The recommendation for the time intervals is for eight hours of operation per day. The time intervals in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE must be decreased for the following conditions: •

The lift truck is used more than eight hours per day.

•

The lift truck must work in dirty operating conditions.

Your dealer for Yale lift trucks has the facilities and trained personnel to do the maintenance. A complete program of inspection, lubrication, and maintenance will help your lift truck perform efficiently and operate over a longer period of time.

Some users have service personnel and equipment to do the inspection, lubrication, and maintenance shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Maintenance Manuals are available from your dealer for Yale lift trucks to help users who do their own maintenance.

WARNING Do not make repairs or adjustments unless you have both authorization and training. Repairs and adjustments that are not correct can make a dangerous operating condition.

Do not operate a lift truck that needs repairs. Report the need for repairs immediately. If repair is necessary, put a "DO NOT OPERATE" tag in the operator's area. Remove the key from the key switch.

When working on or near the mast or carriage, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this section.

HOW TO MOVE A DISABLED LIFT TRUCK WARNING Use extra caution when towing a lift truck if any of the following conditions exist: •

Brakes do not operate correctly.

•

Steering does not operate correctly.

•

Tires are damaged.

•

Traction conditions are bad.

•

The lift truck must be towed on a slope.

If the engine cannot run, there is no power available for the hydraulic steering system. This condition can make the lift truck difficult to steer. Poor traction can cause the disabled lift truck or towing vehicle to slide.

A slope will also make the lift truck more difficult to stop.

Never lift and move a disabled lift truck unless the disabled lift truck MUST be moved and cannot be towed.

A lift truck used to move a disabled lift truck MUST have a capacity rating equal to or greater than the weight of the disabled lift truck. The capacity of the lift truck used to move a disabled lift truck must have a load center equal to half the width of the disabled lift truck. See the nameplate of the disabled lift truck for the approximate total weight. The forks must extend the full width of the disabled lift truck. Put the weight center of the disabled lift truck on load center of the forks. Be careful to not damage the under side of the lift truck.

How To Tow The Lift Truck

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 1. The towed lift truck must have an operator.

2. Raise the forks approximately 30 cm (12 in) off the ground. Install a chain to prevent the carriage and mast channels from moving.

3. If another lift truck is used to tow the disabled lift truck, that lift truck must have an equal or larger capacity than the disabled lift truck. Install approximately 1/2 of a capacity load on the forks of the lift truck that is being used to tow the disabled lift truck. This 1/2 capacity load will increase the traction of the towing lift truck. Keep the load as low as possible.

4. Use a towing link made of steel that fastens to the tow pins in the counterweights of both lift trucks.

5. Tow the lift truck slowly.

HOW TO PUT A LIFT TRUCK ON BLOCKS WARNING The lift truck must be put on blocks for some types of maintenance and repair. The removal of the following assemblies will cause large changes in the center of gravity: mast, battery, and the counterweight. When the lift truck is put on blocks, put additional blocks in the following positions to maintain stability: •

Before removing the mast, put blocks under the counterweight so that the lift truck can not tip backward nor to the side.

•

Before removing the battery and counterweight, put blocks under the mast assembly so that the lift truck can not tip forward.

The surface must be solid, even, and level when the lift truck is put on blocks. Make sure that any blocks used to support the lift truck are solid, one piece units. Put blocks in front and back of the tires to prevent movement of the lift truck.

Figure 2-1. Put A Lift Truck On Blocks NOTE: Some lift trucks have lifting eyes. These lifting eyes can be used to raise the lift truck so that blocks can be installed.

How To Raise The Drive Wheels (See Figure 2-1.)

1. Put blocks on each side (front and back) of the steer tires to prevent movement of the lift truck.

2. Put the mast in a vertical position. Put a block under each outer mast channel.

3. Tilt the mast fully forward until the drive tires are raised from the surface.

4. Put additional blocks under the frame behind the drive tires.

5. If the hydraulic system will not operate, use a hydraulic jack under the side of the frame near the front of the lift truck. Make sure that the jack has a capacity equal to at least half the weight of the lift truck. See the

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 nameplate.

How To Raise The Steer Wheels (See Figure 2-1.)

1. Apply the parking brake. Put blocks on both sides (front and back) of the drive tires to prevent movement of the lift truck.

2. Use hydraulic jacks to raise the steering tires. Make sure that the jacks have a capacity of at least 2/3 of the total weight of the lift truck as shown on the nameplate.

3. Put the jacks under the rear of the frame to raise the lift truck. Put blocks under the frame and counterweight to support the lift truck.

Figure 2-2. Maintenance And Lubrication Points

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

EVERY 8 HOURS OR DAILY WARNING Do not operate a lift truck that needs repairs. Report the need for repairs immediately. If repair is necessary, put a "DO NOT OPERATE" tag in the operator's area. Remove the key from the key switch.

CAUTION Disposal of lubricants and fluids must meet local environmental regulations.

HOW TO MAKE CHECKS WITH THE ENGINE STOPPED Put the lift truck on a level surface. Lower the carriage and forks, stop the engine and apply the parking brake. Do all the checks outside of the engine compartment first. Open the hood and check for leaks and conditions that are not

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 normal. Clean any oil or fuel spills. Make sure that lint, dust, paper, and other materials are removed from the engine compartment.

Tires And Wheels (See Figure 2-3.)

Check the tires for damage. Inspect the tread and remove any objects that will cause damage. Check for bent or damaged rims. Check for loose or missing parts. Remove any wire, straps or other material wrapped around the axle.

CAUTION Check all wheel nuts after 2 to 5 hours of operation when new lift trucks begin operation and on all lift trucks when the wheels have been removed and installed. When the nuts stay tight for eight hours, the interval for checking the torque can be extended to 250 hours.

Make sure the drive wheel nuts are tight. Tighten the wheel nuts in a cross pattern to the correct torque value shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.

Figure 2-3. Check The Tires Forks (See Figure 2-4. and Figure 2-5.)

STEP 1. Check for damage. Remove nails, glass and other objects from the tread.

STEP 2. Make edges smooth.

STEP 3. Check the tire pressure (pneumatic tires).

The identification of a fork describes how the fork is connected to the carriage. These lift trucks have hook-type forks. See Figure 2-4.

Forks, Adjustment The forks are connected to the carriage by hooks and lock pins. See Figure 2-4. These lock pins are installed

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 through the top fork hooks and fit into slots in the top carriage bar. Adjust the forks as far apart as possible for maximum support of the load. Hook forks will slide along the carriage bars to adjust for the load to be lifted. Raise the lock pin in each fork to slide the fork on the carriage bar. Make sure the lock pin is engaged in the carriage bar to lock the fork in position after the width adjustment is made.

Forks, Removal WARNING Do not try to move a fork without a lifting device. Each hook fork for these lift trucks can weigh 45 kg to 105kg (100 to 225 lb).

A fork can be removed from the carriage for replacement of the fork or other maintenance. Slide the fork to the fork removal notch on the bottom carriage bar. See Figure 2-4. Lower the fork onto blocks so that the bottom hook of the fork moves through the fork removal notch. See Figure 2-5. Lower the carriage further so that the top hook of the fork is disengaged from the top carriage bar. Move the carriage away from the fork, or use a lifting device to move the fork away from the carriage.

Figure 2-4. Carriage And Forks 1. FORKS 2. CARRIAGE 3. LOAD BACKREST EXTENSION 4. FORK REMOVAL NOTCH 5. LOCK PIN ASSEMBLY 6. LEVER 7. WASHER 8. SPRING 9. PIN 10. KNOB Forks, Installation Move the fork and carriage so that the top hook on the fork can engage the upper carriage bar. Raise the carriage to move the lower hook through the fork removal notch. Slide the fork on the carriage so that both upper and lower hooks engage the carriage. Engage the lock pin with a notch in the upper carriage bar.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

Figure 2-5. Remove A Hook Fork Legend for Figure 2-5.

1. CARRIAGE BARS 2. HOOK FORK 3. BLOCKS Inspection Of Forks, Mast, And Lift Chains (See Figure 2-6. and Figure 2-7.)

WARNING When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the end of this section.

Lower the lift mechanism completely. Never allow any person under a raised carriage. Do not put any part of your body in or through the lift mechanism unless all parts of the mast are completely lowered and the engine is STOPPED. Do not try to correct the alignment of the fork tips by bending the forks or adding shims. Replace damaged forks.

Never repair damaged forks by heating or welding. Forks are made of special steel using special procedures. Replace damaged forks.

1. Inspect the welds on the mast and carriage for cracks. Make sure that the capscrews and nuts are tight.

2. Inspect the channels for wear in the areas where the rollers travel. Inspect the rollers for wear or damage.

3. Inspect the load backrest extension for cracks and damage.

4. Inspect the forks for cracks and wear. Check that the fork tips are aligned as shown in Figure 2-6. Check that the bottom of the fork is not worn (Item 4).

5. Replace any damaged or broken parts that are used to keep the forks locked in position.

FORK TIP ALIGNMENT LENGTH OF FORKS 915 mm (36 in) 1220 mm (48 in) 1830 mm (72 in)

3% DIMENSION 27mm (1.10 in) 37 mm (1.45 in) 55 mm (2.15 in)

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

Figure 2-6. Check The Forks Legend for Figure 2-6.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

TIP ALIGNMENT (MUST BE WITHIN 3% OF FORK LENGTH) CRACKS LATCH DAMAGE HEEL OF FORK (MUST BE 90% OF DIMENSION "X') CARRIAGE LOAD BACKREST EXTENSION MAXIMUM ANGLE 930

1. If the lift truck is equipped with a side-shift carriage or attachment, inspect the parts for cracks and wear. Make sure the parts that fasten the side-shift carriage or attachment to the carriage are in good condition. Check for and replace any damaged hoses.

2. Inspect the lift chains for cracks or broken links and pins. See Figure 2-7.

3. Check that the lift chains are correctly lubricated. Use SAE 30 engine oil to lubricate the lift chains.

4. Inspect the chain anchors and pins for cracks and damage.

5. Make sure the lift chains are adjusted so that they have equal tension. Adlustment or replacement of the lift chains must be done by authorized personnel. See "Adjust the Lift Chains' in the GENERAL PROCEDURES section.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 Figure 2-7. Check The Lift Chains Legend for Figure 2-7.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

WORN PIN CRACKS EDGE WEAR HOLE WEAR LOOSE LEAVES DAMAGED PIN CORROSION

Safety Labels WARNING Safety labels are installed on the lift truck to give information about operation and possible hazards. It is important that all safety labels are installed on the lift truck and can be read.

Check that all safety labels are installed in the correct location on the lift truck. See the PARTS MANUAL or the SECTION 11, FRAME for the correct location of the safety labels. See the FRAME section for the installation procedure.

Operator Restraint System (See Figure 2-8.)

The seat belt, hip restraints, seat and mount, hood and latches are all part of the operator restraint system. Each item must be checked to make sure it is fastened correctly, functions correctly and is in good condition.

See Figure 2-8. Make sure the seat rails and latch striker are not loose. The seat rails must lock tightly in position, but move freely when unlocked. The seat rails must be correctly fastened to the mount surface. If the mount surface is the hood, the hood must be fastened to the floor plate with the latch. The floor plate must be fastened to the lift truck frame. Try to lift the hood to make sure it is fastened correctly and will not move.

The end of the seat belt must fasten correctly in the latch. Make sure the seat belt pulls from the retractor assembly and retracts smoothly. The seat belt must be in good condition. A seat belt that is damaged or worn will not give protection when it is needed. If the seat belt can not be pulled from the retractor assembly, replace the seat belt assembly.

Steering Column Latch Make sure the latch for the steering column operates correctly. The latch must NOT allow the column to move unless the latch is released.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1

Figure 2-8. Check The Hood And Seat Legend for Figure 2-8.

1. LATCH STRIKER 2. HOOD LATCH 3. LATCH LEVER 4. SEAT 5. SEAT BELT LATCH 6. HIP RESTRAINT 7. SEAT RAIL 8. HOOD 9. HINGE 10. OPERATOR WEIGHT ADJUSTMENT 11. FORWARD/BACKWARD ADJUSTMENT Check For Fuel, Oil Or Coolant Leaks WARNING All fuels are very flammable and can burn or cause an explosion. Do not use an open flame to check the fuel level or to check for leaks in the fuel system. If there is a leak in the fuel system, extra care must be used during the repair. Do not operate the lift truck until a leak is repaired.

Make a visual check for leaks on and under the lift truck. If possible, find and repair the leak at the source. Leaks often indicate a need for repair of damaged or worn components. Leaks in the LPG fuel system are usually not visible unless ice is visible. There is however, usually a strong odor. Fuel leaks must be repaired immediately.

Check the fuel system for leaks and the condition of parts. When fuel is added to the lift truck, see the topic "How To Add Fuel To The Lift Truck' in the OPERATING MANUAL. Also check the condition of the radiator or heater hoses that are not leaking. Soft or cracked hoses need to be replaced before a major leak occurs.

Drive Belts (See Figure 2-9.)

Check the drive belts for wear and damage. The alternator light may also come on during operation if the drive belt does not have the correct tension. Refer to the section EVERY 1000 HOURS OR SIX MONTHS to check and adjust the tension.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 Engine Oil Level (See Figure 2-9.)

Check the oil level in the engine daily. After the engine has stopped, wait one minute before checking the oil level.

Keep the oil at the correct level as indicated on the dipstick. Use the correct oil as shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for the engine oil pressure. The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the engine oil pressure is low. Stop the engine and check the oil level.

Top View Engine Compartment

Side View of Engine

Figure 2-9. Engine Maintenance Points Legend for Figure 2-9.

1. DIPSTICK FOR ENGINE OIL 2. BATTERY 3. AUXILIARY COOLANT RESERVOIR 4. RADIATOR CAP 5. ENGINE OIL FILL 6. DRIVE BELTS 7. AIR FILTER 8. FUEL FILTER 9. ENGINE OIL FILTER 10. PCVVALVE 11. SPARKPLUGS 12. OIL DRAIN PLUG Brake Fluid WARNING Loss of fluid from the reservoir indicates a leak. Repair the brake system before the lift truck is used.

Replace the brake fluid in the brake system if there is oil, water or dirt in the system.

There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for the brake fluid level. The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go off when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the brake fluid level is too low. Stop the operation of the lift truck. Check the brake fluid reservoir under the instrument panel near the parking brake lever.

Add brake fluid as necessary. Use the correct brake fluid shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Hydraulic Oil Level (See Figure 2-10.)

WARNING At operating temperature the hydraulic oil is HOT. Do not permit the hot oil to touch the skin and cause a burn.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 CAUTION Do not permit dirt to enter the hydraulic system when the oil level is checked or the filter is changed.

Never operate the hydraulic pump without oil in the hydraulic system. The operation of the hydraulic pump without oil will damage the pump.

NOTE: A check of the hydraulic oil level is normally required only every 250 hours of operation. Heavy duty or high temperature operations will require more frequent checks.

Move the steering column to the fully forward position and raise the hood for access. For additional access, lift a side panel off the pins at the rear of the panel. Check the hydraulic system for leaks and damaged or loose components.

Make sure both panels are correctly installed and touching at the front before closing the hood.

Figure 2-10. Hydraulic System Oil Legend for Figure 2-10.

1. HYDRAULIC TANK DIPSTICK 2. BREATHER, FILL AND FILTER Check the hydraulic oil level when the oil is at operating temperature, the carriage is lowered, and the engine is stopped. Add hydraulic oil only as needed. If more hydraulic oil is added than the "FULL' level on the dipstick, the hydraulic oil will leak from the breather during operation. The oil level indicated by the dipstick is most accurate when the oil temperature is 53 to 930C (130 to 2000F).

Transmission Oil (See Figure 2-15.)

NOTE: A check of the transmission oil level is normally required only every 250 hours of operation. Heavy duty or high temperature operations can require more frequent checks.

There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for the transmission oil temperature. The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the temperature of the transmission oil is too high. Stop the operation of the lift truck. Make a visual check of the transmission and check the transmission oil level. See EVERY 250 HOURS OR 6 WEEKS. To check the transmission oil level, apply the parking brake and, if the lift truck has a direction control lever, put the lift truck in NEUTRAL. Run the engine for one minute to fill the torque converter with oil. Stop the engine and check the oil within thirty seconds. Use the correct oil shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Keep the oil level at the FULL mark on the dipstick.

Gasoline And LPG Fuel Filters NOTE: Change the fuel filter at the first 100 hours on a new lift truck. Use only the hourmeter hours. A new fuel filter is normally required only every 1000 hours of operation. See EVERY 1000 HOURS OR SIX MONTHS for the procedure to change the fuel filter.

Battery Electrolyte (See Figure 2-9.)

NOTE: A check of the battery electrolyte level is normally required only every 250 hours of operation. Heavy duty or

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 high temperature operations will require more frequent checks. It is not necessary to check the electrolyte level on a maintenance-free battery.

A low electrolyte level can cause the alternator warning light to come ON or cause battery damage during lift truck operation. The voltmeter can indicate lower than normal voltage if a cell is damaged from a low electrolyte level.

HOW TO MAKE CHECKS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING WARNING FASTEN YOUR SEAT BELT! The seat belt is installed to help the operator stay on the truck it the lift truck tips over. IT CAN ONLY HELP IF IT IS FASTENED. Make sure that the area around the lift truck is clear before starting the engine or making any checks of the operation. Be careful when making the checks. If the lift truck is stationary during a check, apply the parking brake and put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Make the checks carefully.

Gauges, Indicator Lights, Horn, Fuses And Relays Check the operation of the horn. Turn the key switch to the ON position. Check all the gauges and indicator lights for correct operation as described in the OPERATING MANUAL. Start the engine. If any of the indicator lights or gauges do not operate correctly, turn the key switch to OFF and check the fuses. The fuses are under the instrument panel on the left side of the cowl. See Figure 2-11.

Figure 2-11. Fuses And Relays Legend for Figure 2-11.

1. NOT USED 2. S1 RELAY 3. STARTER RELAY 4. N2 RELAY 5. N1 RELAY 6. FUSE PANEL 7. LIGHTS (10 amp) 8. STOP/TURN (10 amp) 9. HORN (10 amp) 10. MAIN (20 amp) Control Levers And Pedals Check that the control levers for the transmission, the mast, and the attachment operate as described in the OPERATING MANUAL. Check that the pedals operate correctly as described in the OPERATING MANUAL. Steering System WARNING The lift truck has hydraulic power steering. The steering can be difficult when the engine is not running.

Make sure the steering system operates smoothly and gives good steering control. Make sure the steering column

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 can be adjusted and the latch function is correct.

Service Brakes WARNING Loss of fluid from the brake fluid reservoir indicates a leak. Repair the brake system before using the lift truck. Replace the brake fluid in the system if there is dirt, water or oil in the system.

There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for the brake fluid. The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the brake fluid level in the reservoir is too low. Make a visual check of the reservoir under the cowl near the parking brake lever.

NOTE: Some lift trucks are used in operations where the automatic adjusters can be slow to adjust the brake shoes.

If the brakes need adjustment, operate the lift truck in forward and reverse 10 times. Apply the brake pedal firmly, but do not cause the wheels to slide. If the automatic adjusters do not adjust the brake shoes, a qualified service person must check the operation and condition of the brakes.

Check the operation of the service brakes. Push on the inching/brake pedal. The service brakes must be applied before the inching/brake pedal reaches the floor plate. The pedal must stop firmly and must not move slowly down after the brakes are applied. The service brakes must apply equally to both drive wheels. The service brakes must not pull the lift truck to either side of the direction of travel when they are applied. The service brakes are automatically adjusted when the brakes are applied and the lift truck changes direction. Full application of the inching/brake pedal applies the service brakes and puts the transmission in NEUTRAL. Lift trucks with a Foot Directional Control Pedal: When the inching/brake pedal is fully applied, a switch in the starting circuit is closed so that the engine can be started.

Parking Brake (See Figure 2-12.)

Check the operation of the parking brake. The operator must adjust the parking brake so that the lift truck does not move if it is parked on an incline. The parking brake, when in good condition and correctly adjusted, will hold a lift truck with a capacity load on a 15% grade. A 15% grade is a slope that increases 1.5 meters vertically per 10 meters of horizontal distance (1.5 ft per loft).

To adjust the parking brake, turn the adjustment knob on the lever that applies the parking brake. See Figure 2-12.

Do not tighten the adjustment so that the brake is applied when the lever is released. The lever for the parking brake has a release button. Use your thumb or finger on the release button to release the parking brake.

Brake is applied when the lever is released. The lever for the parking brake has a release button. Use your thumb or finger on the release button to release the parking brake .

Lift trucks with a Foot Directional Control Pedal: When the parking brake is applied, a switch in the starting circuit is closed so that the engine can be started. The switch also puts the transmission in NEUTRAL.

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 Figure 2-12. Parking Brake Adjustment Legend for Figure 2-12.

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PARKING BRAKE LEVER (OFF POSITION) PARKING BRAKE LEVER (ON POSITION) ADJUSTMENT KNOB RELEASE BUTTON

Cooling System (See Figure 2-13.)

WARNING DO NOT remove the radiator cap from the radiator when the engine is hot. When the radiator cap is removed, the pressure is released from the system. lithe system is hot, the steam and boiling coolant can cause burns.

CAUTION Anti-freeze WITHOUT boron is required for all engines with aluminium heads to prevent engine damage.

The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the coolant level in the radiator is low. Make a visual check of the coolant level.

Figure 2-13. Auxiliary Coolant Reservoir Legend for Figure 2-13.

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FILL CAP AUXILIARY COOLANT RESERVOIR FULL MARK ADD MARK RADIATOR CAP

Make sure the coolant level is between the "FULL' and the "ADD' mark on the auxiliary coolant reservoir. The coolant will expand as it is heated and the level in the auxiliary coolant reservoir will increase. If coolant is added, use the correct mixture of water and ethylene glycol shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. WARNING Compressed air can move particles so that they cause injury to the user or to other personnel. Make sure that the path of the compressed air is away from all personnel. Wear protective goggles or a face shield to prevent injury to the eyes.

Check the radiator fins. Clean the radiator with compressed air or water as needed.

Lift System Operation WARNING

Sheet 4: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part1 When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the end of this section.

Lower the lift mechanism completely. Never allow any person under a raised carriage. Do not put any part of your body in or through the lift mechanism unless all parts of the mast are completely lowered and the engine is STOPPED. WARNING Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting hands on pressurized hydraulic components. Hydraulic oil can be injected into the body by the pressure.

1. Check for leaks in the hydraulic system. Check the condition of the hydraulic hoses and tubes.

2. Slowly raise and lower the mast several times without a load. Raise the mast to its full height at least once. The mast components must raise and lower smoothly in the correct sequence.

NOTE: Some parts of the mast move at different speeds during raising and lowering.

3. The inner weldments and the carriage must lower completely.

4. Raise the mast 1 meter (3 ft) with a capacity load. The inner weldment(s) and the carriage must raise smoothly.

Lower the mast. All moving components must lower smoothly.

5. Lower the load to approximately 0.3 meter (1 ft). Tilt the mast forward and backward. The mast must tilt smoothly and both tilt cylinders must stop evenly.

6. Check that the controls for the attachment operate the correct functions. See the symbols by each of the controls. Make sure all of the hydraulic lines are connected correctly and do not leak.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 EVERY 250 HOURS OR 6 WEEKS Do these procedures in addition to the 8 hour checks.

ENGINE OIL AND FILTER (See Figure 2-9.)

Changing The Engine Oil And Filter CAUTION Long term exposure to used engine oil can cause skin irritation or cancer. Wash with detergent and water.

Never operate the engine without oil.

NOTE: Change the oil and filter at the first 100 hours with new or rebuilt engines. Use only the hourmeter hours.

1. Change the oil filter at the same time the engine oil is changed. Use the correct oil as shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. 2. Install a new filter. Apply clean oil to the gasket of the new filter. Turn the filter until the gasket touches, then tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn with your hand.

3. Start the engine. Check the area around the oil filter for leaks.

PCV Valve (See Figure 2-9.)

Mazda M4-2.OG engine has a PCV valve. Check the operation of the PCV valve. The check valve inside the PCV valve must permit air flow in only one direction: from the valve cover. Clean the PCV valve using solvent.

Replace the PCV valve every other time the engine oil is changed, but not less than once a year.

Air Filter (See Figure 2-14.)

1. There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for the air filter. The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is running, the air filter has a restriction and needs cleaning.

2. Put a bright light inside the filter element and look for holes or other damage. If the filter element is damaged, install a new filter element. Use a cloth with solvent to clean the inside of the canister when the filter element is installed.

Figure 2-14. Air Filter Legend for Figure 2-14.

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CANISTER FILTER ELEMENT SEAL CLAMP WING NUT BAFFLE

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 7. END COVER 3. Clean or install a new air filter when it is dirty. Use compressed air to clean the filter element. Air pressure must be less than 210 kPa (30 psi) and the air must be dry. Apply the air from the inside to the outside of the filter element. Install a new air filter every 1000 hours or six months of operation. If there is a problem with dirty air in the operating areas, the air filter must be changed more frequently than 1000 hours.

TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL (See Figure 2-15.)

To check the transmission oil level, apply the parking brake and, if the lift truck has a direction control lever, put the lift truck in NEUTRAL. Run the engine for one minute to fill the torque converter with oil. Stop the engine and check the oil within thirty seconds. Use the correct oil shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Keep the oil level at the FULL mark on the dipstick.

Figure 2-15. Check The Oil Level For The Transmission Legend for Figure 2-15.

1. DIPSTICK FOR TRANSMISSION 2. ACCESS DOOR IN FLOOR PLATE 3. MAT BATTERY WARNING The acid in the electrolyte can cause injury. If the electrolyte is spilled, use water to flush the area. Use a solution of sodium bicarbonate (soda) to make the acid neutral. Acid in the eyes must be flushed with water immediately. Wear eye protection.

WARNING Batteries generate explosive fumes. Keep the vents in the caps clean. Keep sparks or open flame away from the battery area. Do not make sparks from the battery connections. Disconnect the battery ground cable when doing maintenance.

CAUTION Disposal of batteries must meet local environmental regulations.

Keep the battery and cable terminals clean. Check the electrolyte level (unless maintenance-free battery). Keep the electrolyte level above the separators and plates. Use distilled water. Do not fill the battery more than to the bottom of the internal filler neck.

If the battery becomes discharged and requires a booster battery to start the engine, perform the following steps carefully when connecting the jumper cables: 1. Always connect the positive jumper cable to the positive terminal of the discharged battery and the negative jumper cable to the negative terminal.

2. Always connect the jumper cable that is the ground cable last.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 3. Always connect the jumper cables to the discharged battery before connecting them to the booster battery.

WHEEL NUTS WARNING Check all wheel nuts after 2 to 5 hours of operation when new lift trucks begin operation and on all lift trucks when the wheels have been removed and installed. When the nuts stay tight for eight hours, the interval for checking the torque can be extended to 250 hours.

Make sure the drive and steer wheel nuts are tight. Tighten the wheel nuts in a cross pattern to the torque value shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. ENGINE SPEED LPG Engine The engine must be at the normal operating temperature. Adjust the engine speed as described in the MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the FE/F2 engine.

Gasoline Engine The engine must be at the normal operating temperature. Adjust the engine speed as described in the MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the FE/F2 engine.

LIFT CHAINS WARNING When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this section.

Do not repair a worn or damaged lift chain. If a lift chain is worn or damaged, both lift chains must be replaced.

Lubrication Lubricate the lift chains with SAE 30 engine oil. The best procedure is to remove the chains from the lift truck and soak them in engine oil. Be sure to clean any grease or dirt from the chains before lubricating. Do not use steam to clean the lift chains.

mm 12.7 15.9 19.1 25.4

(inch) (0.50) (0.63) (0.75) (1.00)

Total length of 20 links (pitch) of new chain mm (inch) 254.0 (10.0) 317.5 (12.5) 381.0 (15.0) 508.0 (20.0)

WEAR LIMIT The maximum length of 20 links mm (inch) 261.6 (10.3) 327.0 (12.9) 392.4 (15.6) 523.3 (20.6)

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2

Figure 2-16. Check The Lift Chains NOTE: The instructions for measuring chain wear are shown on the chain wear scale.

Check For Wear If a section of chain is 3% longer than a similar section of new chain, the chain is worn and must be replaced.

Measure the chain for wear where it moves over the sheaves. If a chain scale is available, check the lift chains as shown in Figure 2-16. If a chain scale is not available, measure 20 links of chain. Measure from the center of a pin to the center of another pin 20 pitches away. Compare the length with the chart in Figure 2-16. Replace the chain if the length of 20 links of the worn section is more than the WEAR LIMIT. MAST (See Figure 2-17.)

WARNING When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this section.

1. Lubricate the sliding surfaces and the load roller surfaces along the full length of the channels as shown in Figure 2-17. Apply lubricant only to the surfaces indicated.

NOTE: The load rollers and sheaves have sealed bearings and do not need additional lubrication.

2. Lubricate the pivot pins for the mast at the grease fittings on the mast. Use multipurpose grease.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 Figure 2-17. Lubricate The Mast Legend for Figure 2-17.

1. LUBRICATE STRIP BEARINGS SURFACES 2. LUBRICATE LOAD ROLLER SURFACES 3. LOAD ROLLER 3. If either type of side-shift carriage is installed, lubricate the sliding surfaces (bearings) at the grease fittings. Use multipurpose grease.

4. If an integral side-shift carriage is installed, tighten the backrest capscrews to 195 Nm (145 lbf ft).

Lubricate the pins for each link at the grease fittings near each end of each link (4 total). Lubricate the bearings and fill the space between the king pin bearings during assembly every 250 hours or six weeks. Use multipurpose grease at the grease fittings. See the SECTION 7, STEERING AXLE for the removal and installation procedures.

SPARK PLUGS Bad fuel or engine age can decrease the time required between replacements. Check and clean each spark plug.

See EVERY 1000 HOURS OR SIX MONTHS for the procedure for changing spark plugs.

The differential and drive axle use the same oil supply. Check that the differential oil is at the correct level. The oil level must be even with the bottom of the fill hole. The fill hole for checking the oil level is on the front of the differential housing. Add the oil that is shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Install the fill plug and check for leaks.

DRIVE BELTS 1. Check the drive belts for the fan and alternator for wear and damage.

2. Check the tension by pushing on the drive belts as shown in Figure 2-18. When a pressure of 90 N (20 lbf) is applied, the correct belt deflection is approximately 13 mm (1/2 in). Loosen the alternator support bracket to adjust the tension of the belt.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2

Figure 2-18. Drive Belts And Engine Timing Belt DIFFERENTIAL Legend for Figure 2-18.

1. CHECK TENSION HERE 2. LOCK BOLT FOR TENSIONER 3. ALTERNATOR SUPPORT BRACKET NOTE: The cover for the timing belt must be removed for checks and adjustments. See the MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the FE/F2 engine for more information.

3. Check the timing belt for wear and damage. Small cracks that run across the belt are acceptable. A belt with cracks that run the length of the belt or a belt with missing pieces is not acceptable.

4. Check the tension by pushing on the timing belt. When a pressure of 90 N (20 lbf) is applied, the correct belt deflection is approximately 13 mm (1/2 in). To adjust the timing belt, do the following: a. Loosen the lock bolt for the tensioner and apply spring tension to the belt. b. When the belt tension is correct, tighten the lock bolt to 20 to 35 Nm (14to25 lbfft).

INCHING BRAKE The inching function gives a small amount of transmission "inching' as the brakes are applied (called "overlap'). This overlap makes the "inching' function smooth on small grades. As the inching/brake pedal is pushed in, inching/brake overlap occurs. The brakes start to apply and the transmission clutch packs begin to disengage. This overlap must be adjusted if the control valve was removed for repairs or it has been more than 25 hours since the brake shoes were installed. The overlap must also be adjusted every 250 hours or six weeks.

See SECTION 5, BRAKE SYSTEM to correctly adjust the inching brake.

FORKS (See Figure 2-6.)

WARNING Never repair damaged forks. Do not heat, weld, or bend the forks. Forks are made of special steel using

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 special methods. Replace damaged forks.

1. Check the heel and attachment points of the forks with a penetrant or magnetic particle inspection.

2. Measure the thickness of the forks at a vertical section where there is no wear. This thickness is dimension X. Now measure the thickness at the heel of the fork (item 4 of Figure 2-6.). If the thickness of the heel is not greater than 90% of dimension X, replace the fork.

EVERY 500 HOURS OR THREE MONTHS Do these procedures in addition to the 250 hour checks.

FUEL FILTER, GASOLINE ENGINE (See Figure 2-9.)

Install a new fuel filter. After installation, operate the engine and check for leaks.

DRAIN TAR FROM THE LPG REGULATOR (SEE Figure 2-19.)

Remove the drain screw from the regulator. Allow the tar to drain from the regulator. When the tar has completely drained, install the drain screw in the regulator.

Figure 2-19. LPG Regulator EVERY 1000 HOURS OR SIX MONTHS Do these procedures in addition to the 500 hour checks.

PEDALS, LEVERS, CABLES AND OTHER LINKAGES Lubricate the linkages, pedal shafts and control cables (throttle, hood, parking brake) and the seat rails. Use a silicone spray lubricant. Lubricate the bushings for the mast control levers with engine oil. Lubricate the coupling for the drive of the hydraulic pump at the grease fitting. The coupling is under the radiator.

AIR FILTER Remove the old filter element. Use a cloth with solvent to clean the filter housing. Install a new filter element.

IGNITION SYSTEM (See Figure 2-20.)

These engines have an electronic ignition system. Change the spark plugs and check the timing every 1000 hours. The correct timing is shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 Make sure all the spark plugs have the gap set to 0.8 mm (0.032 in) and are correctly installed. Make sure the spark plug wires are in the correct firing order at the distributor. The timing order is 1-3-4-2.

NOTE: Do NOT disconnect the vacuum line for the distributor to adjust the timing.

WARNING Make sure the timing light and your hands and arms stay clear of the fan blade area. The rotating blades of the fan can cause damage or injury.

Check and adjust the timing as follows: 1. Connect a timing light to the number one spark plug wire.

2. Operate the engine at idle speed (700 to 750 rpm).

3. Carefully hold the timing light in a position to illuminate the indicator. See Figure 2-20. The correct degree mark on the pulley must be aligned with the indicator on the engine. If the mark is not aligned, adjust the timing.

Engine timing is adjusted by rotating the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise.

4. Loosen the clamp screw at the base of the distributor housing to adjust the distributor. See Figure 2-20.

5. Rotate the distributor until the timing light shows the correct timing mark aligned with the indicator.

6. Carefully tighten the clamp screw without changing the distributor position. Check that the timing is still correct.

7. Carefully remove the timing light from the engine compartment. Stop the engine and disconnect the timing light.

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT Check the valve clearance on the Mazda engines and make adjustments as needed. Additional information about the engine can be found in the MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the FE/F2 engine.

EVERY 2000 HOURS OR YEARLY Do these procedures in addition to the 1000 hour checks.

THROTTLE CABLE Install a new throttle cable every other year or every 4000 hours.

Change the oil in the differential and drive axle. The differential and drive axle use the same oil supply.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2

Figure 2-20. Ignition Timing, Mazda Gasoline/Lpg Engines Legend for Figure 2-20.

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INDICATOR 0°BTDC, YELLOW 8°BTDC, WHITE DISTRIBUTOR

1. Use a drain pan that has a capacity of more than the amount shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the differential and allow the oil to drain.

2. Install the drain plug and fill the differential with the oil shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. The oil level must be even with the bottom of the fill hole on the front of the differential housing. Install the fill plug and check for leaks.

NOTE: Additional information can be found in SECTION 4, DRIVE AXLE. MAIN SOLENOID VALVE (LPG ENGINE) Remove the main solenoid. Clear any tar deposits that may have accumulated.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM WARNING At operating temperature the hydraulic oil is HOT. Do not permit the oil to touch the skin and cause a burn.

CAUTION Do not permit dirt to enter the hydraulic system when the oil level is checked or the filter is changed. Dirt can cause damage to components of the hydraulic system.

NOTE: Change the oil filter for the hydraulic system at the first 100 hours of operation on new lift trucks.

Replace The Hydraulic Oil And Filter (See Figure 2-21.)

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 1. Put the lift truck on a level surface and lower the carriage. Disconnect the small hose, near the dipstick, for the steering system. Disconnect the larger hose, in front of the breather and fill tube.

2. Drain the oil from the hydraulic tank. Put a container under the drain plug that has a capacity of approximately 30 liters (9 gal). Remove the drain plug.

3. Remove the screws that fasten the tank cover assembly. Carefully lift the cover assembly out of the hydraulic tank.

4. Remove the return filter from the tube of the cover assembly. Use a wrench to remove the suction filter in the bottom of the hydraulic tank.

5. Install new filters and use a new gasket for the cover assembly. Install the capscrews and connect all hydraulic hoses. Install the drain plug.

6. Fill the hydraulic tank with oil specified in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. When the oil level is correct operate the system and check for leaks.

Clean The Hydraulic Tank Breather The breather for the hydraulic tank is next to the dipstick for the hydraulic oil. Clean the breather in solvent. Install a new breather if air will not flow through it easily. Oil will flow out of the hydraulic tank through the breather if there is too much oil in the system. The breather must be cleaned in solvent if this happens.

TIMING BELT Install a new timing belt every 2000 hours or each year. See the MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the FE/F2 engine.

COOLING SYSTEM WARNING

Figure 2-21. Hydraulic Oil And Filters Legend for Figure 2-21.

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SUCTION FILTER RETURN FILTER COVER ASSEMBLY LARGE HOSE SMALL HOSE BREATHER AND FILL TUBE DIPSTICK DRAIN PLUG

DO NOT remove the radiator cap from the radiator when the engine is hot. When the radiator cap is removed, the pressure is released from the system. If the system is hot, the steam and boiling coolant can

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 cause burns.

1. To change the coolant in the cooling system, put the lift truck on a level surface. Stop the engine.

2. Open the drain valve and remove the radiator cap. Drain the coolant into a container. Flush the cooling system.

Check the hoses and fittings for damage. Replace with new hoses and fitting as needed.

CAUTION Anti-freeze WITHOUT boron is required for all engines with aluminium heads to prevent engine damage.

3. Close the drain valve. Fill the cooling system with the correct coolant (50% water and 50% ethylene glycol).

4. Install the radiator cap. Start the engine and check for leaks. Operate the engine until the coolant is warm. Stop the engine and allow the coolant to cool. Add coolant to the auxiliary coolant reservoir as needed.

TRANSMISSION WARNING At operating temperature the oil for the transmission is HOT. Do not permit the oil to touch the skin and cause a burn.

CAUTION Do not permit dirt to enter the transmission when the oil level is checked or the filter is changed. Dirt can cause damage to the components.

NOTE: Change the oil filter and suction screen for the transmission at the first 100 hours of operation on new lift trucks. Also change the oil filter and suction screen for the transmission at the first 100 hours of operation on rebuilt transmissions.

Replace The Transmission Oil And Filter Change the oil and filter for the transmission. The drain plug for the transmission is in the bottom cover of the transmission, toward the rear of the lift truck.

1. Put the lift truck on a level surface. Install a container with a capacity of approximately 9.2 liters (8.8 qt) under the drain plug for the transmission.

2. Remove the drain plug, spring, and screen. Drain the oil into the container.

3. After the oil has drained, use a filter wrench to remove the filter.

4. Install a new oil filter when the oil in the transmission is changed. Apply clean oil to the gasket of the new filter.

Install the new filter and tighten it with your hand.

5. Clean the screen. Install the screen, spring, and drain plug.

6. Add the oil to the transmission at the dipstick tube. The correct oil is shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Check for leaks during operation.

FUEL FILTER, LPG ENGINE WARNING LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or open flames in the area when the fuel line is drained.

1. Close the fuel valve on the tank. Run the engine until the engine stops.

2. Remove the six cap screws, cover, and two filter elements. Discard the filter elements.

3. lnstall the cover and the gasket. Tighten the screws for the cover. Tighten the hose fitting.

FUEL INJECTOR, LPG Engine (Closed Loop) 1. Remove the LPG fuel injector from the carburetor.

Sheet 5: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--Part2 CAUTION Be careful not to damage the injection orifice or the inner parts of the injector while cleaning. Do not insert the steel wire in the injection nozzle more than 2Omm (0.79 in).

2. Check around the injection nozzle for carbon or other deposits. If there are any deposits, first wipe the outside of the nozzle. Then insert a small steel wire (1.2 mm [0.05 in] maximum diameter) into the nozzle in order to remove any deposits inside the nozzle.

3. After cleaning, apply 350 to 500 kPa (51 to 73 psi) of compressed air to the fuel inlet of the injector in order to force out any deposits. If the fuel injector appears clean, install the injector on the carburetor.

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures GENERAL PROCEDURES SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (1 of 2) The following procedures must be used when inspecting or working near the mast. Additional precautions and procedures can be required when repairing or removing the mast.

WARNING Mast parts are heavy and can move. Distances between parts are small. Serious injury or death can result if part of the body is hit by parts of the mast or the carriage.

• Never put any part of the body into or under the mast or carriage unless all parts are completely lowered or a safety chain is installed. Also make sure that the power is oft and the key is removed.

Put a "DO NOT OPERATE" tag in the operator's compartment. Disconnect the battery on electric lift trucks and put a tag or lock on the battery connector.

• Be careful of the forks. When the mast is raised, the forks can be at a height to cause an injury.

• DO NOT climb on the mast or lift truck at any time. Use a ladder or personnel lift to work on the mast.

• DO NOT use blocks to support the mast weldments nor to restrain their movement.

• Mast repairs require disassembly and removal of parts and can require removal of the mast or carriage.

Follow the repair procedures in the mast section.

WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST ALWAYS: • Lower the mast and carriage completely. Push the lift/lower control lever forward and make sure there is no move-ment in the mast. Make sure that all parts of the mast that move are fully lowered.

OR • If parts of the mast must be in a raised position, install a safety chain to restrain the moving parts of the mast. Connect moving parts to a part that does not move. Follow these procedures: a. Put the mast in a vertical position. b. Raise the mast to align the bottom crossmember of the weldment that moves in the outer weldment with a crossmember on the outer weldment (1). On the two-stage LFL and two-stage FFL masts, the moving part is the inner weldment (2). On the three-stage FFL mast it is the intermediate weldment (3). c. Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook (5) to fasten the cross members together so that the movable member can not lower. Put the hook on the back side of the mast. Make sure the hook is completely engaged with a link in the chain. Make sure the safety chain does not touch lift chains or chain sheaves, tubes, hoses, fittings, or other parts on the mast. d. Lower the mast until there is tension in the safety chain and the free-lift cylinder (6) (two-stage FFL and three-stage FFL masts only) is completely retracted. If running, stop the engine. Apply the parking brake. Install a "DO NOT REMOVE' tag on the safety chain(s). e. Install another safety chain (3/8 inch minimum) between the top or bottom crossmember of the carriage (7) and a cross-member on the outer weldment (8).

• Apply the parking brake. After lowering or restraining the mast, shut off the power and remove the key. Put a "DO NOT OPERATE' tag in the operator's compartment. Disconnect the battery on electric lift trucks and put a tag or lock on the battery connector.

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures

SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (2 of 2) CHECK THE HOOD LATCH (See Figure 2-22.)

NOTE: If the latch still cannot be correctly aligned, it may be necessary to add or remove washers under the rubber bumpers. Add or remove the washers to position the hood within the adjustment range of the latch slots.

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures

Figure 2-22. Hood Latch Legend for Figure 2-22.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

HOOD ASSEMBLY HOOD LATCH LATCH STRIKER LATCH CAPSCREWS BUMPER & WASHERS

CHECK FOR LEAKS IN THE LIFT AND TILT SYSTEM WARNING During the test procedures for the hydraulic system, use chains to fasten the load to the carriage to prevent it from falling. Keep all people away from the lift truck during the tests.

Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hydraulic oil can be injected into the body by the pressure.

Check The Lift Cylinders For Leaks 1. Operate the hydraulic system. Put a capacity load on the forks and raise and lower the load several times. Lower the load and tilt the mast forward and backward several times. Check for leaks.

2. Raise the carriage and load one meter (3 ft). If the carriage slowly lowers when the control valve is in the Neutral position, there are leaks in the hydraulic system. The maximum speed that the carriage is allowed to lower is 50 mm (2 in) per 10 minutes when the hydraulic oil is 300C (900F). If the oil temperature is 700C (1 600F), the maximum speed that the carriage can lower is 150 mm (6 in) per 10 minutes.

3. Check the lift cylinders for internal leaks. Remove the load from the forks. Install a gate valve in the supply line between the main control valve and the mast. Put a capacity load on the forks again. Raise the carriage one meter (3 ft). Close the gate valve. If the carriage or mast weldments lower slowly, the seals in the lift cylinders

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures have leaks.

4. If the carriage does not move, open the gate valve and check the movement again. If the carriage lowers when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hydraulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load from the forks.

Check The Tilt Cylinders For Leaks 1. Put a capacity load on the forks. Slowly tilt the mast forward. If the mast continues to slowly tilt forward when the control valve is in the Neutral position, there are leaks inside the hydraulic system. The maximum speed that the mast is allowed to tilt forward when there are internal leaks in the lift system is 13 mm (0.5 in) per 10 minutes (measured at rod in the tilt cylinder). The maximum speed is measured when the hydraulic oil is 300C (900F). If the oil temperature is 700C (1600F), the maximum speed 39 mm (1.5 in) per 10 minutes.

2. If the leak rate is greater than the specifications, remove the load from the mast. Install a valve between the port at the front of the tilt cylinder and the hydraulic line. Put the load on the forks again. Close the valve. If the mast tilts slowly forward, the cylinder seals are leaking.

3. If the mast does not move, open the gate valve and check the movement again. If the mast moves forward when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hydraulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load from the forks when the checks are complete.

ADJUST THE TILT CYLINDERS (See Figure 2-23.)

WARNING When the tilt cylinders have tilt limit spacers, make sure they are installed during installation procedures.

Without the tilt limit spacers, the mast can tilt too much and cause an accident or serious injury.

Check the tilt cylinder stroke by slowly tilting the mast fully forward and backward several times. Both tilt cylinders must stop their stroke at the same time. Adjust the rod ends to DIMENSION A for all tilt cylinders as shown in Figure 2-23. There must be no twist in the mast weldments.

1. Adjust the stroke of the tilt cylinders WITHOUT tilt limit spacers as follows: a. Slowly tilt the mast backward until one cylinder rod stops. On the opposite cylinder, loosen the capscrews on the rod end. Measure the distance from the end of cylinder to the back end of the rod end. Use a wrench and turn the cylinder rod IN until the dimension starts to decrease, then stop. Repeat this procedure until both cylinder rods stop at the same position within 1 mm (0.04 in). After the adjustments are complete, tighten the capscrews on the rod ends. b. Tilt the mast fully backward and measure the tilt angle. (See Nameplate for tilt angles.) If necessary, adjust both rod ends equally for the correct angle.

2. Adjust the stroke of the tilt cylinders WITH tilt limit spacers as follows: a. Slowly tilt the mast forward until one cylinder rod stops. On the opposite cylinder, loosen the capscrews on the rod end. Use a wrench and turn the cylinder rod IN as necessary. Repeat this procedure until both cylinder rods stop at the same position within 1 mm (0.04 in). b. Slowly tilt the mast backward until one rod end just contacts the spacer. Add shims to fill the gap at the opposite rod end until both rod ends contact the spacers within 0.5 mm (0.02 in). c.

After the adjustments are complete, tighten the capscrews on the rod ends.

d. Tilt the mast fully backward and measure the tilt angle. (See Nameplate for tilt angles.) If necessary, add an equal number of shims to both rods for the correct angle.

ADJUST THE LIFT CHAINS WARNING When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this section.

Never allow anyone under a raised carriage. Do not put any part of your body in or through the lift

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures mech-anism unless all parts of the mast are completely lowered and the engine is STOPPED. Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hydraulic oil can be injected into the body by the pressure.

During test procedures for the hydraulic system, fasten the load to the carriage with chains to prevent it from falling. Keep all personnel away from the lift truck during the tests.

Figure 2-23. Tilt Cylinder Adjustments Legend for Figure 2-23.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

MAST ROD END SHIMS TILT LIMIT SPACER TILT CYLINDER

When the lift chains are correctly adjusted: • The tension will be the same on each chain of the chain set. Check tension by pushing on both chains at the same time.

• The chain length will be correct.

• The chains must travel freely through the complete cycle.

NOTE: When the chain adjustments are complete, make sure that the threads on the nuts of the chain anchors are completely engaged. Make sure that all of the adjustment is not removed from the chain anchors. The chain anchors must be able to move on their mounting.

1. When adjusting the lift chains on forklift trucks equipped with either pin or hook type forks installed, go to step 2.

If the forklift truck is normally equipped with a hook type carriage and has an attachment without forks go to step 3. If the forklift truck is normally equipped with a pin type carriage and has an attachment without forks go to step 4.

NOTE: Prior to performing adjustment procedures make sure that the forklift truck is parked on a level sur-face and that the mast is in the vertical position.

2. Adjust the chain anchors which support the carriage until the bottom of the fork heel is 6 3 mm (0.25 0.12 in) above the floor level. See Figure 2-24.

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures

Figure 2-24. Lift Chain Adjustment, Hook Or Pin Type Forks Legend for Figure 2-24.

1.

2.

3.

4.

MAST CARRIAGE FORK HEEL OF THE FORK IS 6 3 mm (0.25 0.12 in) ABOVE THE FLOOR LEVEL.

3. See Figure 2-25. Adjust the chain anchors which support the carriage until the bottom of the lower carriage bar is above the floor level as follows: Class II and III 82.5 3 mm (3.25 0.12 in) Class IV 133.5 3 mm (5.25 0.12 in)

Figure 2-25. Lift Chain Adjustment, Hook Type Carriage Legend for Figure 2-25.

1. MAST 2. CARRIAGE 3. DISTANCE FROM FLOOR TO LOWER CARRIAGE BAR SERVICE BRAKES Check the brake lining and parts of the brake assembly for wear or damage. See the SECTION 5, BRAKE SYSTEM for the removal and installation procedures of the drive wheels and brake drums. If the brake linings or brake shoes are worn or damaged, they must be replaced. Brake shoes must be replaced in complete sets. Inspect the brake drums for cracks or damage. Replace any damaged parts.

WARNING Brake linings can contain dangerous fibers. Breathing the dust from these brake linings is a cancer or lung

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures disease hazard. Do not create dust! Do not clean brake parts with compressed air or by brushing. Follow the cleaning procedure in this section. When the brake drums are removed, do not create dust.

Do not sand, grind, chisel, hammer or change linings in any way that will create dust. Any changes to brake linings must be done in a restricted area with special ventilation. Protective clothing and a respirator must be used.

CAUTION Do not use an oil solvent to clean the wheel cylinder.

Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts.

Do not permit oil or grease in the brake fluid or on the brake linings.

Cleaning Procedure: 1. Do not release brake lining dust from the brake linings into the air when the brake drum is removed.

2. Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts to wet the lining dust. Follow the instructions and cautions of the manufacturer for the use of the solvent. If a solvent spray is used, do not create brake lining dust with the spray.

3. When the brake lining dust is wet, clean the parts. Put any cloth or towels in a plastic bag or an airtight container while they are still wet. Put a "DANGEROUS FIBERS' warning label on the plastic bag or airtight container.

4. Any cleaning cloths that will be washed must be cleaned so that fibers are not released into the air.

WELDING REPAIRS NOTE: See the SECTION 11, FRAME for the procedures to weld the areas of the fuel or hydraulic tanks of the lift truck frame.

Some repairs require welding. If an acetylene or arc welder is used, make sure the procedures in the following WARNING and CAUTION are done.

WARNING Welding can cause a tire or an explosion. Always follow the instructions in the FRAME section of the SERVICE MANUAL if a fuel or hydraulic tank must be welded. Make sure there is no fuel, oil, or grease near the weld area. Make sure there is good ventilation in the area where the welding must be done.

Do not heat, weld, or bend forks. Forks are made of special steel using special methods. Get information from your dealer for Yale lift trucks before welding on an mast.

CAUTION When an arc welder is used, always disconnect the ground cable from the battery in the lift truck. This action will prevent damage to the alternator or the battery.

Connect the ground clamp for the arc welder as close as possible to the weld area. This action will prevent damage to a bearing from the large current from the welder.

CHANGES TO THE OVERHEAD GUARD WARNING Do not make changes to the overhead guard by welding or drilling. Welding, or drilling holes that are too big in the wrong location, can reduce the strength of the overhead guard. See your dealer for Yale lift trucks before making any changes to the overhead guard.

HOW TO CHANGE A SOLID RUBBER TIRE (See Figure 2-26.)

WARNING The type of solid rubber tire is shown on the nameplate. Make sure the nameplate is correct for the type of

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures tires on the lift truck.

Wheels must be changed and tires repaired by trained personnel only.

Always wear safety glasses.

NOTE: Solid rubber tires made from softer or harder material can be installed as optional equipment. The tread on the solid rubber tires can be either smooth or it can have lugs. Do not mix types of tires or tread on the lift truck.

1. Raise the lift truck as described in "How To Put A Lift Truck On Blocks' in this manual.

2. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel from the lift truck. Lift truck wheels are heavy.

Remove And Install The Tire On The Wheel 1. The correct tools, equipment and a press ring must be used for each size of wheel. Use a press to push the wheel from the rim and tire. The capacity of the press must be approximately 355 kN to 1779 kN (80,000 to 400,000 lb). For the tire sizes, see the nameplate.

NOTE: Make sure the tires are installed on the wheels so that the outside edges of the tire and wheel are as shown in Figure 2-26. Also check the nameplate of the lift truck for the correct tire size and tread width.

WARNING Check all wheel nuts after 2 to 5 hours of operation when new lift trucks begin operation and on all lift trucks when the wheels have been removed and installed. When the nuts stay tight for eight hours, the interval for checking the torque can be extended to 250 hours.

2. When the drive wheels are installed on the lift truck, tighten the wheel nuts in a cross pattern to the value shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. 3. The steering wheels are fastened to the spindle of the steering axle with a large castle nut. Make sure the inner and outer bearings are correctly lubricated with grease. Install the inner bearing assembly and wheel on the spindle. Install the outer bearing cone and castle nut. Tighten the castle nut up to 200 Nm (150 lbf ft) torque while the wheel is rotated. Loosen the castle nut until the hub turns freely with no looseness. The torque must be less than 27 Nm (20 lbf ft). Tighten the castle nut to 34 Nm (25 lbf ft) torque. Install the cotter pin in the castle nut at the first alignment. Install the cap for the bearings.

Figure 2-26. Tires And Wheels

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures Legend for Figure 2-26.

1. OUTSIDE OF SOLID RUBBER TIRE 2. WHEEL 3. OVERHANG MAST SPEEDS LIFTING* NO LOAD

RATED LOAD

LOWERING* NO LOAD

RATED LOAD

MODEL m/sec

ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min TWO-STAGE LFL GC/GLC 030-040 AF/BF .055 108 0.53 104 0.47 92.5 TWO-STAGE FFL GC/GLC 030-040 AF/BF 0.50 98 0.475 94 0.37 73 THREE-STAGE FFL GC/GLC 030-040 AF/BF 0.51 101 0.49 97 0.41 80.5 * Hydraulic Oil Temperature 65°C (149°F). Plus or minus10% acceptable for lifting and lowering.

m/sec

ft/min

0.51

100.5

0.46

90.5

0.48

94.5

MAST DRIFT SPEEDS LIFT/TILT LOWERING* LIFT, at Carriage 146 mm (5.7 in) in 10 minutes TILT, at Carriage 68 mm (2.7 in) in 10 minutes Cylinder Stroke 68 mm (2.7 in) in 10 minutes *Hydraulic Oil Temperature 60°C (140°F). Plus or minus 10% acceptable for lifting and tilting.

Start measurement with mast at vertical position and the load raised to 2.5 meters (8.2 ft).

Use maximum lift height if the maximum is less than 2.5 meters (8.2 ft).

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS ITEM SPECIFICATION SPARK PLUGS TYPE NIPPON DENSO W14 EXR-U GAP 0.08 mm (0.032 in) COMPRESSION PRESSURE 1131Kpa (164 psi) @ 270 rpm COMPRESSION RATIO 8.6 : 1 BORE AND STROKE 86 mm x 86 mm (3.39 in x 3.39 in) DISPLACEMENT 1998 cm (121.9 in ) FIRING ORDER (All Engines) 1-3-4-2 IGNITION TIMING Gasoline 0°/TDC LPG 8°BTDC VALVE CLEARANCE 0.3 mm (0.012 in) - Intake and Exhaust (Cold) IDLE SPEED 725 ±25 rpm GOVERNED SPEED (No load) 2700 to 2800 rpm OIL PRESSURE 226 to 362 kPa (33 to 52 psi) @ 2400 rpm COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE 103 kPa (15 psi) THERMOSTAT (All Engines) 82°C (180°F) NOTE: For more engine information, see the YALE engine MAINTENANCE MANUAL for the correct engine HYDRAULIC SYSTEM ITEM SPECIFICATION HYDRAULIC PUMP Type Gear Priority Flow 45.8 liter/min (12.1 gal/min) RELIEF PRESSURES (See SECTION 8) Steering (At Control Valve) 5.4 to 5.9 MPa (782 to 855 psi) Primary (At Control Valve) 17.7 to 18.2 MPa (2560 to 2640 psi) Secondary (At Control Valve) 15.7 to16.2 Moa (2277 to 2350 psi) All pressures with oil at 55 to 65°C (130 to 150°F) with engine @ 2000 rpm.

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures

Figure 2-27. Pressure Test Ports, Torque Converter Housing and Control Valve Legend for Figure 2-27.

1. TEST PORT NO.1 PUMP PRESSURE 2. TEST PORT NO.2 TORQUE CONVERTER INLET 3. TEST PORT NO.3 CLUTCH PRESSURE TRANSMISSION PRESSURES ITEM Test Port No. 1 Test Port No. 2 Test Port No. 3

TORQUE CONVERTER STALL SPEEDS ENGINE YALE FE/F2 Gasoline LPG

CAPACITIES ITEM ENGINE OIL (with filter) COOLING SYSTEM HYDRAULIC SYSTEM TRANSMISSION DIFFERENTIAL FUEL TANK Gasoline LPG BRAKE FLUID

SPECIFICATION 1170-1470 kPa (170-213 psi) 296-685 kPav(43-100 psi) 1075-1370 kPa (156-200 psi)

SPEED 1482 to 1682 1435 to 1635

QUANTITY 4.3 liter (4.5 qt) 10.8 liter (2.9 gal) 25 liter (6.6 gal) 7.5 liter (7.9 qt) 2.5 liter (2.6 qt) 28.4 liter (7.5 gal) 33 or 43 lbs (15 or 20 kg) 0.3 liter (0.6 pt)

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures LIFT TRUCK WEIGHTS* MODEL GC030AF GC040AF GLC030AF GLC040AF *Weight is for complete truck without mast TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ITEM BRAKE SYSTEM Axle Shaft Capscrews Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews Wheel Nuts (Cushion) Wheel Stud Assembly Nuts DRIVE AXLE Axle Mounts to Frame Capscrews Axle Shaft Capscrews Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews FRAME Counterweight Capscrews MAST Lift Cylinder Mount Bolts Maxt Pivot Capscrews STEERING SYSTEM Axle Mount Capscrews Steering Cylinder Capscrews Wheel Nuts TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL Control Valve Capscrews Torque Converter drive Plate Capscrews Torque Converter Housing Adapter to Engine M4-2.0G Engine (Cushion Only) Torque Converter Housing to Adapter Plate M10 Capscrews M12 Capscrews Transmission Housing to Torque Converter Housing Capscrews Transmission Pump Differential Bearing Caps Ring Gear Capscrews MORE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ITEM ENGINE - MAZDA M4-2.0G Camshaft Pulley Lock bolt Cooling Fan Connecting Rod Cap Crankshaft Pulley Cylinder Head (Cold) Engine Mount to Engine Engine Mount Capscrew Exhaust Manifold Flywheel Intake Manifold Main Bearing Cap Oil Pan Oil Pump M8 Capscrews M10 Capscrews Rocker Cover Rocker Shaft Assembly Spark Plugs Starter Thermostat Cover

WEIGHT 2610 kg (5755 lb) 3005 kg (6625 lb) 2610 kg (5755 lb) 3005 kg (6625 lb)

SPECIFICATION 66 Nm (50 lbf ft) 102 Nm (75 lbf ft) 128.5 Nm (94.8 lbf ft) 127 Nm (75 lbf ft) 72 Nm (53 lbf ft) 66 Nm (50 lbf ft) 102 Nm (75 lbf ft) 621 to 746 Nm (458 to 550 lbf ft) 53 Nm (40 lbf ft) 90 Nm (66lbf ft) 41 to 49 Nm (30 to 36 lbf ft) 294 to 353 Nm (217 to 260 lbf ft) 200 Nm (150 lbf ft) Initial 3 to 5 Nm (2 to 4 lbf ft) Final 61 Nm ( lbf ft) 41 Nm (30 lbf ft) 96 to 103 Nm (71 to 76 lbf ft) 41 Nm (30 lbf ft) 71 Nm (52 lbf ft) 41 Nm (30 lbf ft) 21 Nm (16 lbf ft) 263 to 314 Nm (194 to 232 lbf ft) 152 to 167 Nm (112 to 123 lbf ft)

SPECIFICATION 46 to 66 Nm (35 to 48 lbf ft) 8 to 11 Nm (6 to 8 lbf ft) 51 to 56 Nm (37 to 41 lbf ft) 30 to 33 Nm (22 to 24 lbf ft) 81 to 88 Nm (30 to 36 lbf ft) 41 to 49 Nm (30 to 36 lbf ft) 66 Nm (49 lbf ft) 22 to 29 Nm (16 to 21 lbf ft) 96 to 103 Nm (71 to 76 lbf ft) 19 to 31 Nm (14 to 22 lbf ft) 84 to 90 Nm (61 to 65 lbf ft) 7 to 12 Nm (5 to 9 lbf ft) 19 to 26 Nm (14 to 19 lbf ft) 38 to 53 Nm (27 to 38 lbf ft) 30+40 Nm (25 to 35 lbf ft) 18 to 27 Nm (13 to 20 lbf ft) 15 to 23 Nm (11 to 17 lbf ft) 66 to 79 Nm (49 to 58 lbf ft) 12 to 18 Nm (9 to 13 lbf ft)

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures Timing Belt Cover Upper Capscrews Lower Capscrews Timing Belt Tension Lock Bolt Torque Converter Housing Adapter M8 Capscrews M14 Capscrews Torque Converter Housing M10 Capscrews M12 Capscrews Water Pump

8 to 12 Nm (6 to 9 lbf ft) 7 to 8 Nm (5 to 6 lbf ft) 20 to 35 Nm (14 to 25 lbf ft) 21 to 25 Nm(16 to 18 lbf ft) 118 to 142 (87 to 105 lbf ft) 41 Nm (30 lbf ft) 71 Nm (52 lbf ft) 19 to 26 Nm (14 to 19 lbf ft)

General Guide To Torque Values (lbf ft) Marking No Mark 3 Marks

6 Marks

Socket Head

12 Pt. - Flanged

8 1960 Series 1936 & 60 Series 2 SAE Grade 5 Size (in) Thread Dry Lub. Dry Lub. Dry Lub. Dry Lub. Dry Lub. 1/4 20 6 4 8 6 12 9 13 10 16 12 1/4 28 6 7 10 7 14 10 15 11 18 14 5/16 18 11 8 17 13 25 18 28 20 33 25 5/16 24 12 9 19 14 25 20 30 22 36 27 3/8 16 20 15 30 23 45 35 48 36 58 44 3/8 24 23 17 35 25 50 35 55 41 65 49 7/16 14 30 24 50 35 70 55 77 58 93 70 7/16 20 35 25 55 40 80 60 86 65 104 78 1/2 13 50 35 75 55 110 80 118 89 142 106 1/2 20 55 40 90 65 120 90 132 99 160 120 9/16 12 70 55 110 80 150 110 170 127 205 153 9/16 18 80 60 120 90 170 130 189 141 228 171 5/8 11 100 75 150 110 220 170 235 176 283 212 5/8 18 110 85 170 130 240 180 267 200 320 240 3/4 10 175 130 260 200 380 280 417 313 501 376 3/4 16 195 145 300 220 420 320 467 350 559 420 7/8 9 165 125 430 320 600 460 672 504 707 530 7/8 14 185 140 470 350 660 500 741 562 778 584 1 8 250 190 640 480 900 680 1006 756 1060 795 1 12 270 200 700 530 1000 740 1125 833 1 14 340 260 750 580 1030 785 1230 883 1190 892 1-1/8 7 350 270 800 600 1280 960 1283 966 1702 1276 1-1/8 12 400 400 300 660 1440 1080 1425 1066 1908 1431 1-1/4 7 500 380 1120 840 1820 1360 1600 1200 2162 1621 1-1/4 12 550 550 420 920 2000 1500 1800 1350 2660 1995 1-3/8 6 660 490 1460 1100 2380 1780 2382 1782 1-3/8 12 74 740 560 1260 2720 2040 2708 2033 1-1/2 6 870 650 1940 1460 3160 2360 2800 2100 4177 3133 1-1/2 12 980 730 2200 1640 3560 2660 3000 2260 4700 3525 NOTES: 1. The term lub. includes the application of high stress lubrication to the fastener, and fasteners that have a cadmium plating.

2. Dry values include screws that only have a thin film of oil to prevent rust.

3. The torque values are minimum. Values to 20% higher are permitted.

4. Fasteners with zinc plating must have a 10% higher torque than dry value.

GENERAL GUIDE TO TORQUE VALUES (Nm and lbf ft) Grade JIS F4T ISO 8.8 or JIS F8T

Size

Marking Pitch

Nm

None (lbf ft)

8.8 or F8T or 8T Nm (lbf ft)

ISO 10.9 or JIS F11T

10.9 or F11T or 11T Nm (lbf ft)

ISO 12.9

Nm

12.9 (lbf ft)

Sheet 6: General Lift Truck Maintenance and Lubrication Schedule--General Procedures M4 M5 M6 M8 M8 M10 M10 M12 M12 M14 M14 M16 M16 M18 M20 M20 M24 M24 M30 M30

0.7 0.8 1.0 1.25 1.0 1.5 1.25 1.75 1.25 2.0 1.5 2.0 1.5 2.5 2.5 1.5 3.0 2.0 3.5 2.0

4.3 10 10 20 20 35 35 57 57 88 88

3 7 7 15 15 25 25 41 41 64 64

2.9 6 10 25 27 49 52 86 95 135 150 210 225

172 172 297 297 591 591

124 124 215 215 427 427

410 460 710 780 1450 1600

2 4 7 18 20 35 38 62 69 98 108 152 163 297 333 514 564 1049 1157

4.1 8.5 14 35 38 69 73 120 135 190 210 295 315 405 580 640 1000 1100 2000 2250

3 6 10 25 28 50 53 87 98 137 152 213 228 300 420 463 723 796 1447 1627

4.9 10 17 41 45 83 88 145 160 230 250 355 380

3.5 7 12 30 33 60 64 105 116 166 181 257 275

690 770 1200 1300 2400 2700

499 557 868 940 1736 1953

NOTES: 1. Reduce the torque values approximately 20% when high stress lubrication is applied to the fastener, or fasteners that have a cadmium plating.

2. Dry values include screws that only have a thin film of oil to prevent rust.

3. The torque values are minimum. Values to 20% higher are permitted.

4. Fasteners with zinc plating must have a 10% higher torque than dry value.

5. Marking not required on MS and smaller fasteners.

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1 TRANSMISSION SINGLE-SPEED POWERSHIFT TRANSMISSION The single-speed powershift transmission has Forward and Reverse clutch assemblies, a torque converter, transmission pump, a control valve and the differential.

The transmission is a constant mesh type in that the gears are in contact with each other at all times. The clutch assemblies are actuated by hydraulic pressure and released by the force of a spring.

Figure 3-1. Transmission Legend for Figure 3-1.

1. TRANSMISSION HOUSING 2. BEARING CAP 3. CAPSCREW 4. WASHER 5. COVER 6. COTTER PIN 7. CAPSCREW 8. GASKET 9. TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING 10. PIN 11. CAPSCREW 12. LOCKWASHER 13. GEAR PUMP 14. DIPSTICK PIPE 15. BOLT 16. WASHER 17. TEMPERATURE SENDER 18. BREATHER 19. DIPSTICK 20. CAPSCREW 21. NUT

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1 22. PLUG 23. PLUG 24. CAPSCREW 25. CHOKE 26. BELLCRANK 27. CONTROL VALVE 28. COLD RELIEF PISTON 29. COLD RELIEF SPRING 30. REGULATOR PISTON 31. REGULATOR SPRING 32. REGULATOR SPRING 33. PLUG 34. SOLENOID VALVE 35. PLUG 36. PLUG 37. PLUG 38. CAPSCREW 39. GASKET 40. FITTING TORQUE CONVERTER Description (See Figure 3-2.)

The torque converter hydraulically connects the engine to the transmission. There is no direct mechanical connection between the engine and the transmission.

The torque converter has an impeller, a turbine, and a stator with a stator clutch. The impeller is fastened to the flywheel and has a set of curved blades. The turbine also has blades, and is connected to the input shaft of the transmission by splines. The stator is between the turbine and the impeller. The stator clutch is a single-directional clutch that permits the stator to turn freely in the directional of engine rotation, but locks to prevent rotation in the opposite directional from engine rotation. When the turbine is rotating at the same speed as the impeller, the stator clutch permits the stator to rotate as a unit with the impeller and turbine.

Operation (See Figure 3-3., Figure 3-4. and Figure 3-5.)

The torque converter has two main functions. It operates as a fluid clutch to smoothly transfer power from the engine to the transmission. The torque converter will multiply the torque from the engine. When the engine works against a load, the torque converter can multiply the torque from the engine and send more torque to the transmission. The maximum torque multiplication is available just before the torque converter stalls. If the need for torque multiplication is not required, the torque converter operates as a fluid clutch.

The impeller has a set of curved blades that accelerates the oil from the center of the impeller when the impeller turns. The volume of the impeller decreases towards the outer circumference. This decreasing volume increases the speed and energy of the oil as it leaves impeller and flows into the outer circumference of the turbine. The force from the high speed oil hitting the blades in the turbine transfers most of the energy to the turbine and causes it to move in the directional of the engine rotation. The oil then flows from the outer circumference towards the center of the turbine. The turbine blades change the directional of the oil flow so that the oil leaving the center of the turbine is going in the directional opposite of engine rotation. This oil now has a lower velocity because it has given most of its energy to rotate the turbine.

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1

Figure 3-2. Torque Converter Arrangement Legend for Figure 3-2.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

DRIVE PLATE FLYWHEEL ACCESS COVER HOUSING TORQUE CONVERTER OIL PUMP INPUT SHAFT

The stator is between the turbine and impeller in the center of the torque converter. When the oil hits the stator blades, the stator clutch prevents the stator from turning in the directional opposite of engine rotation.

The blades of the stator change the directional of the oil so that the oil enters the impeller in the directional of engine rotation. The energy that remains in the oil flow as it leaves the stator is added to the new energy being added to the impeller by the engine. This use of energy, controlled by the stator, permits the torque converter to multiply the torque of the engine.

Resistance to the flow of oil in the turbine, because of centrifugal force, increases as the speed of the turbine increases. This resistance decreases the energy and amount of oil flow to the impeller from the stator. When the flow to the impeller decreases, the additional force added to the impeller decreases. Less torque is generated when less torque is needed.

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1

Figure 3-3. Types Of Flow When the lift truck is travelling at a constant speed on level ground, the turbine and impeller rotate at approximately the same speed. The centrifugal force of the oil is the same for both the impeller and turbine. The oil does not flow through the stator and torque is not multiplied. The rotating oil hits the back of the stator blades and turns the stator in the directional of engine rotation. The stator clutch permits the stator to turn with engine rotation. The impeller, turbine, stator and oil rotate as a unit when torque multiplication is not required.

When the lift truck begins to travel up a ramp, the resistance to turning the turbine increases. The centrifugal force of the oil in the turbine decreases. When the speed of the turbine is less than the speed of the impeller, the stator locks in place. Torque is multiplied only when the stator is held by the stator clutch. The oil flows from the impeller, through the turbine and stator, and enters the impeller to multiply the torque. The torque converter again increases the torque when more torque is needed.

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1

Figure 3-4. Stator Clutch

Figure 3-5. Lift Truck At Constant Speed (No Torque Multiplication) CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES Description (See Figure 3-6.)

The transmission has two clutch assemblies, a Forward clutch and a Reverse clutch. The Forward and Reverse clutch housings are on the input shaft. The input shaft is connected to the turbine of the torque converter. The Forward and Reverse hubs are always engaged with the output gear and the reverse shaft. Hydraulic pressure is used to apply one of the clutches so that power is transmitted from the engine through the transmission to the drive wheels.

Each clutch assembly has a housing, piston, friction discs and separator plates. The friction discs and separator

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1 plates are installed in the housing in a sequence. Each friction disc is next to a separator plate. The separator plates have a smooth metal surface. The friction discs have a friction material on the surface. The hub in each clutch assembly engages with the inner splines of the friction discs. The splines in the outer circumference of the separator plates engage the splines in the clutch housing. A pressure plate holds the friction discs and separator plates in the housing. A large return spring keeps the piston retracted against the housing. There is enough clearance in the clutch assembly to permit the friction discs to rotate when a clutch is not applied. When hydraulic pressure is applied to the piston, the friction discs and separator plates are pressed together and the clutch assembly rotates as a single unit. The hydraulic pressure for the clutches is 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi) measured at the test port for the clutch regulator.

An orifice in each clutch piston permits a small continuous oil flow from the pressure chamber in the clutch. This orifice makes sure that the clutch will completely release. The orifice also makes sure oil does not stay in the pressure chamber of the clutch because of centrifugal force after the clutch is released.

The input shaft in the transmission has oil passages that connect the clutch assemblies to the control valve. There are also oil passages in the transmission housing and the clutch assemblies for the lubrication and cooling of the clutch assemblies. Seal rings on one end of the input shaft seal the oil passages so that oil can flow from the passages in the transmission housing to the passages in the input shaft.

Figure 3-6. Clutch Assembly Legend for Figure 3-6.

1. SNAP RING 2. BEARING 3. NEEDLE BEARING 4. REVERSE HUB 5. NEEDLE BEARING 6. SNAP RING 7. RETAINER 8. SPRING 9. RETAINER 10. 10 PRESSUREPLATE 11. FICTION DISC 12. SEPARATOR PLATE 13. PISTON 14. SEAL RING 15. FORWARD HUB

Sheet 7: Transmission--Part 1

Figure 3-7. Clutch Operation Legend for Figure 3-7.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

INPUT SHAFT REVERSE CLUTCH AND HUB FORWARD CLUTCH AND HUB REVERSE GEAR REVERSE SHAFT OUTPUT GEAR PINION RING GEAR

Operation (See Figure 3-7.)

When the engine is running, the input shaft is turning in the directional of engine rotation. When the Forward clutch is engaged, the power from the engine is sent from the input shaft and Forward clutch assembly to the output pinion.

The flow of power is from the input shaft through the applied clutch to the Forward hub. The gear on the Forward hub is engaged with the output gear on the pinion of the differential.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 HYDRAULIC SYSTEM The powershift transmission has a hydraulic system for control and lubrication of the transmission. The oil pump for the transmission is driven by the torque converter.

(See Figure 3-2.) The transmission pump turns with the torque converter when the engine is running. The oil supply for the system is kept in the sump of the transmission. A screen in the suction line to the transmission pump prevents large particles from entering the hydraulic system of the transmission. The oil flows through the screen in the sump, through the transmission pump, by the relief valve, and then through the filter. (See Figure 3-9.) The pressure, controlled by the relief valve for the transmission pump, is 1170 to 1470 kPa (170 to 213 psi). From the filter, the oil flows through passages in the transmission housing to the control valve.

CONTROL VALVE (See Figure 3-8.)

The control valve is installed on the top of the transmission. The inching spool, modulator circuit, regulator for clutch pressure and the regulator for the torque converter are part of the control valve. The position of the inching spool is controlled by the inching/brake pedal.

A solenoid valve is installed at the side of the control valve. The solenoid valve is actuated by the shift lever. The solenoid valve controls the position of the directional spool.

Figure 3-8. Control Valve Legend for Figure 3-8.

1. VALVE BODY 2. CHECK PORT PLUG 3. PISTON 4. SPRING 5. STOPPER 6. GASKET 7. PIN 8. STOPPER 9. COVER 10. INCHING SPOOL 11. STOPPER 12. SNAP RING 13. OILSEAL Regulator for Clutch Pressure

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 The regulator for clutch pressure controls the oil pressure for applying the clutches to engage the transmission. The control pressure of the regulator is 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi). Oil that flows to the regulator for clutch pressure flows to the torque converter circuit and oil lubrication circuit.

Inching Spool Assembly Inching is the slow movement of a lift truck while a high engine speed is used for faster operation of the hydraulic system. The inching function is normally used for fine movements of the lift truck when handling a load. Operation of the inching pedal decreases the oil pressure to a clutch so that the clutch is not completely applied.

The inching spool assembly has an inching spool, an inching spool plunger, and two springs. Oil flows to the inching spool from the transmission pump. The inching spool controls the oil flow and pressure to the directional spool (solenoid valve). When the inching function is not used, the oil flows through the inching spool to the directional spool. Operation of the inching function causes a restriction of the oil flow to the directional spool and the clutch. This operation decreases the oil pressure to the directional spool (and clutch) as the inching spool plunger is extended.

When the inching spool plunger is completely extended, the oil pressure to the directional spool (and clutch) is approximately zero. The clutch is then released and the transmission is in NEUTRAL. Direction Spool The direction spool is inside the solenoid valve and controls the oil flow from the inching spool to the direction clutches. The direction spool has three positions: FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and REVERSE. When the direction spool is in its FORWARD position, oil flow and pressure is sent to apply the forward clutch. When the directional spool is in its REVERSE position, oil flow and pressure is sent to apply the reverse clutch. When the direction spool is in its NEUTRAL position, oil pressure to both of the clutches is reduced to approximately zero. When the direction spool is moved to control a direction of travel, oil flows to and from the clutch assemblies and also to the modulator circuit.

Electric switches in the direction control lever energize and deenergize the solenoid valve. When the direction solenoid is energized the direction spool changes position to change the flow of oil.

Modulator Circuit A modulator circuit is used to control the rate of application of the clutches. When the directional spool is moved to select a directional of travel, the modulator circuit controls the application of the clutch during a 1.50 to 2.0 second period. The modulator circuit controls the pressure increase to apply the clutch smoothly. This delay and smooth application of pressure reduces the shock and stress to the drive train when engaging the transmission or changing directions.

Regulator for the Torque Converter When the engine speed is low, the oil flows to the torque converter through an orifice in the bore in the clutch pressure regulator. The pressure regulator for the torque converter stays closed until the pressure to the torque converter increases to 296 to 685 kPa (43 to 100 psi). When the pressure regulator for the torque converter opens, the oil that does not go to the torque converter flows directly to the passage to cool and lubricate of the parts of the transmission. The oil that flows to the torque converter goes through the oil cooler before entering the passage to cool and lubricate the clutches.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-9. Hydraulic Schematic Legend for Figure 3-9.

1. STRAINER 2. PUMP 3. CLUTCH PRESSURE REGULATOR 4. TORQUE CONVERTER REGULATOR 5. TORQUE CONVERTER 6. OIL COOLER 7. OIL FILTER 8. CLUTCH 9. DIRECTION SPOOL (SOLENOID VALVE) 10. ACCUMULATOR 11. INCHING SPOOL 12. CHECK PORT SHIFT LEVER (See Figure 3-24.)

The shift lever is used to control the operation of the directional spool. There are two switches, one for FORWARD and one for REVERSE, in the shift lever assembly that actuate the solenoid valve. In the NEUTRAL position, both of the switches are closed.

FOOT DIRECTIONAL CONTROL PEDAL (See Figure 3-10.)

The foot directional control pedal controls the speed of the engine and the operation of the directional solenoids. The pedal pad is held to the pedal frame by a pivot shaft. The pedal pad rotates on the shaft and is held in the forward or reverse position by magnets in the pedal frame. There are two switches in the foot directional control pedal assembly. When the foot directional control pedal is in the forward position, both pedal switch buttons are actuated.

Battery power flows through both pedal switches to energize the forward solenoid. When the foot directional control pedal is in the reverse position, both pedal switch buttons are released. Battery power flows through both pedal switches to energize the reverse solenoid.

Start Circuit, Foot Directional Control Pedal A switch in the hand lever for the parking brake supplies electrical power to the foot directional control pedal. The foot directional control pedal energizes the solenoid valves. When the hand lever for the parking brake is in the released position, the switch in the hand lever is closed so that electrical power is supplied to the foot directional control pedal. The forward and reverse solenoid valves are controlled by the foot directional control pedal. When the

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 hand lever for the parking brake is in the applied position, the switch is open so that both of the solenoid valves close. When both of the solenoid valves close (deenergized), the centering spring moves the directional spool to the NEUTRAL position.

A switch in the hand lever for the parking brake energizes and deenergizes the start circuit on the ignition switch.

When the hand lever for the parking brake is in the applied position, the start circuit can be energized so that the lift truck can be started. When the hand lever for the parking brake is in the released position, the start circuit is deenergized and the engine cannot be started.

When the inching/brake pedal is fully pushed down, the service brakes are applied and a disc on the end of the inching spool actuates the neutral start switch. The neutral start switch is in series electrically with a pressure switch in the brake system. The disc actuates the neutral start switch and the pressure in the brake system closes the brake switch. The pressure switch in the brake system makes sure that the brakes are applied. When the neutral start switch and the brake switch are both closed, the start circuit, controlled by the ignition switch, can be energized.

When the inching/brake pedal is fully pushed down, oil pressure to the clutch pack is reduced to zero. This operation makes sure that the transmission clutch is disengaged and the brakes are applied when the engine is started.

Figure 3-10. Foot Directional Control Pedal Legend for Figure 3-10.

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2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

PEDAL PAD PEDAL FRAME MAGNET PIVOT SHAFT SPRING MAGNET PLATE SWITCH

DIFFERENTIAL The ring and pinion gears transfer power to the axle shafts at right angles to the transmission. The ring and pinion is also a gear reduction which increases the torque to the drive wheels. The differential assembly permits the two drive wheels to turn at different speeds when the lift truck is turning a corner.

The ring and pinion gears are held in position in the transmission case by the differential housing. The housing for the drive axle is fastened to the differential housing. The output gear for the transmission is installed on the pinion shaft. The output gear is in constant mesh with the gears of the Forward clutch hub and the Reverse shaft.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 TORQUE CONVERTER AND TRANSMISSION PUMP NOTE: The torque converter cannot be repaired.

Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 3-11. and Figure 3-12.)

CAUTION Be careful that you do not damage parts of the torque converter or transmission when the transmission is separated from the engine. Keep the transmission and engine in alignment until they are completely separated so that parts of the transmission are not damaged. Use a crane or lifting device to separate the transmission from the engine.

1. Remove the access cover from the top of the torque converter housing.

2. Remove the capscrews that hold the drive plate to the flywheel.

3. Remove the capscrews that hold the torque converter housing to the engine. Remove the starter. Carefully separate the transmission from the engine. Make sure the torque converter stays with the transmission.

4. Remove the torque converter from the transmission.

5. Remove the transmission pump from the housing. Disassemble the pump as follows: a. Remove the capscrews that hold the pump body to the stator shaft. b. Remove the gears from the pump. Remove the seal and 0-ring from the pump.

Figure 3-11. Torque Converter And Housing Legend for Figure 3-11.

1. TORQUE CONVERTER ASSEMBLY 2. CONVERTER 3. DRIVE PLATE

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 4. CAPSCREW 5. WASHER 6. WASHER 7. FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY 8. BOLT 9. BACKPLATE 10. FLANGE 11. LOCKWASHER 12. BOLT 13. WASHER

Figure 3-12. Transmission Pump Legend for Figure 3-12.

1.

2.

3.

4.

SHAFT BOLT OIL SEAL O-RING

Inspection Inspect the gears and all splines for wear or damage. Repair or replace parts as needed.

Assembly And Installation (See Figure 3-11. and Figure 3-12.)

1. Apply a silicone gasket material to the mounting surface of the transmission housing. Install the torque converter housing on the transmission housing. Be sure to align the holes in the torque converter housing with the holes in the bearing carrier. When the holes are aligned, install the housings together.

2. Use a thread locking adhesive and install the socket head capscrews for the bearing retainer. See item 16, Figure 3-1 5.Tighten the capscrews to 10 Nm (89 lbf in). Install the capscrews that hold the housings together and tighten them to 41 Nm (30 lbf ft).

3. Assemble the transmission pump as follows: a. Lubricate the parts of the pump with clean transmission oil. b. Install a new oil seal in the pump body. c.

Install the gears and stator shaft on the pump body. Make sure the side of the drive gear with grooves is toward the torque converter. Use a gasket sealant on both sides of the washers and install the two capscrews. Tighten the capscrews to 9 to 16 Nm (8Otol42lbfin).

d. Install a new 0-ring on the pump body.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 4. Install the pump on the housing. Use a thread locking adhesive and install the capscrews. Tighten the capscrews to 20 Nm (177 lbf in). Check that the drive gear rotates freely in the body.

5. Install the torque converter, making sure the notches align with the gear in the oil pump.

CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 3-13. and Figure 3-15.)

1. Remove the torque converter housing.

2. Remove the capscrews for the bearing retainer for the reverse shaft. Remove the reverse shaft from the transmission.

3. Remove the input shaft and clutch assembly from the transmission.

4. Remove the seal rings from both ends of the input shaft.

5. Remove the snap ring for the ball bearing. Use a puller to remove the bearing carrier and the ball bearing.

6. Remove the spacer and reverse clutch hub.

7. Remove the retaining ring and pressure plate from the reverse clutch. Remove the friction discs and separator plates.

8. Remove the piston only if there is a problem with the piston or seals. Use two punches to push the spring retainer down. See Figure 3-13. Remove the snap ring for the retainer. Remove the retainer, spring and piston.

Pull the piston from the clutch housing. Remove the seal from the circumference of the piston and the 0-ring from the shaft.

WARNING The spring for the piston is compressed. Make sure the spring and spring retainer can not cause injury when the snap ring is removed.

NOTE: Some service people make a special bracket so that the spring and retainer can be compressed and held with a press to remove the snap ring.

9. Remove the snap ring for the ball bearing for the forward clutch. Use a puller to remove the forward clutch hub, spacer and the ball bearing.

10. Remove the remaining clutch parts as described in Steps 7 and 8.

Figure 3-13. Piston Return Spring Legend for Figure 3-13.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 1.

2.

3.

4.

PUNCH SNAP RING SPRING RETAINER PISTON

Inspection 1. Inspect the gears for the clutch assemblies and the differential gears for wear or damage.

2. Check all parts that have splines for damage to the splines. Check for notches worn in the splines.

3. Inspect the friction discs for burned lining or bent surfaces. Check for small holes in the lining. Replace the friction discs if one-half the depth of the oil grooves are worn away or the discs are damaged. Discard a friction disc that has a thickness less than 1.70 mm (0.067 in).

4. The separator plates must not be bent, have damaged surfaces, or have large blue areas from too much heat.

5. Inspect the bearings for wear or damage.

6. Inspect the piston for damage. Make sure that the sealing surfaces are good. Make sure the orifice is clean.

7. Check for grooves or other damage on the machined surfaces of the shaft. Check the seal rings for damage and wear. Check the seal ring surfaces in the housing for damage.

Assembly (See Figure 3-13. and Figure 3-15.)

NOTE: Lubricate the parts of the clutch assemblies with clean transmission oil.

1. Use the following procedures for either the forward or reverse clutch: a. Install the seals on the piston and on the shaft. Install the piston in the housing.

WARNING The spring for the clutch must be compressed.

Make sure the spring and spring retainer can not cause injury when the snap ring is installed.

NOTE: Some service people make a special bracket so that the spring and retainer can be compressed and held with a press to install the snap ring. b. Install the piston spring and retainer. See Figure 3-13. Use two punches to push the spring retainer down.

Install the snap ring for the retainer. c.

Install the friction discs and separator plates in an alternate sequence. Start with a separator plate against the piston. Install the pressure plate and retaining ring.

d. Install the thrust washer and clutch hub. Make sure the inner chamfer on the thrust washer is toward the clutch pack.

1. On the Forward clutch, install the thrust washer and ball bearing on the shaft. Make sure the inner chamfer on the thrust washer is toward the clutch assembly. Install the snap ring. Install the seal rings on the shaft.

2. On the Reverse clutch, install the thrust washer so that the inner chamfer on the thrust washer is toward the clutch pack. Apply Loctite® 242 in the area of the bearing carrier for the bearing. Install the bearing, making sure the adhesive does not get into the bearing. After the adhesive is dry, install the bearing on the shaft. Install the snap ring. Install the seal ring.

Installation (See Figure 3-15.)

1. Lubricate the seal rings and install the clutch assembly in the housing.

2. Install the reverse shaft and bearing. Use a thread locking adhesive and install the capscrews for the bearing retainer. Tighten the capscrews to 20 Nm (177 lbf in).

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-14. Transmission Arrangement Legend for Figure 3-14.

1. SHIMS 2. ROLLER BEARING 3. OIL SEAL 4. BEARING 5. OUTPUT GEAR 6. LOCKNUT 7. NUT 8. LOCKWASHER 9. REVERSE SHAFT 10. PLUG 11. BEARING 12. BEARING 13. GEAR 14. WASHER 15. RETAINING RING 16. RETAINING RING 17. HYDRAULIC CLUTCH 18. SCREW 19. LOCKWASHER 20. RING GEAR AND PINION

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-15. Clutch Assemblies Legend for Figure 3-15.

1. SEAL RING 2. SNAP RING 3. BEARING 4. SPACER 5. FORWARD HUB 6. THRUST WASHER 7. RETAINER 8. SPRING 9. RETAINING RING 10. PRESSURE PLATE 11. FRICTION DISC 12. SEPARATOR PLATE 13. PISTON 14. PISTON SEAL

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 15. CLUTCH HOUSING 16. BEARING RETAINER 17. REVERSE HUB

DIFFERENTIAL Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 3-16. and Figure 3-17.)

1. Disassemble only the parts of the differential that must be repaired. If the ring gear and pinion are not to be replaced, check the contact pattern before disassembly The pattern and gear clearance are used as references for assembly. See the Differential, Assembly And Installation section for the procedures.

2. Before removing the differential assembly, measure the outside diameter of the case as shown in Figure 3-16.

This dimension is necessary when the parts are assembled.

Figure 3-16. Measure The Differential Case 3. Make a note of the positions of the adjusting nuts for the ring gear. Remove the bearing caps, adjusting nuts and the differential assembly.

4. Remove the nuts and lock washer from the pinion shaft. Remove the output gear. Push the pinion shaft from the bearings.

5. Remove the outer bearing cup and shims. Make a note of the shim arrangement. If the pinion will not be replaced, the shim arrangement will be approximately the same when the differential is assembled again.

Remove the inner bearing cup and oil seal.

6. Disassemble the differential as needed to make repairs. Remove the ring gear from the differential case.

Remove the roll pin and shaft. Remove the differential pinions, side gears and thrust washers.

Inspection 1. Check the pinion and ring gear for wear. Inspect the side gears and differential pinions for worn teeth. Inspect the shaft for wear where the gears turn. The shaft and the holes for the shaft in the differential case must fit tightly.

2. Check all bearings for wear and damage. Replace a worn or damaged part.

Assembly And Installation (See Figure 3-17.)

NOTE: When the ring gear and pinion are worn or damaged, they must be replaced as a set. Always check that the gears are a matched set.

NOTE: The pinion variation number, which is indicated in millimeters, is located on the end of the pinion. The number is used to adjust the the depth of the pinion in the housing (for example,+.01 or -.02). This procedure is described in the following paragraphs.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 When a new ring and pinion assembly is installed: 1. The pinion and ring gear are made in sets. Both the ring gear and pinion must have the same numbers. When pinion bearings are replaced or the ring gear and pinion are replaced, the shim arrangement must be adjusted for the new parts. Most service people do not have the equipment used by the manufacturer to find the shim arrangement before the differential is assembled. Service people must often make more than one adjustment before the clearances are correct. The differential must be disassembled for adjustment and assembled again for checks. The adjustments are correct when the gear clearance and the contact pattern between the pinion and ring gear are correct and the preload on the pinion bearings is correct.

2. Look at the pinion variation number on the pinion that is being replaced.

The dimension on the end of the pinion is the variation from the standard Gauge Distance. The Gauge Distance is the distance from the center of the ring gear to the bearing shoulder behind the pinion. (See Figure 3-19.)

Shims must beadded, or removed from, between the outer bearing cup and the housing to adjust for manufacturing tolerances.

3. Look at the number on the pinion that was removed. Subtract variation number that is on the new pinion. The remainder is the amount of shim thickness that must be adjusted from the shim set on the pinion that was removed. For examples, see Figure 3-18. In examples 3 and 4 you can see that a negative number shows that shims must be removed. Examples 1 and 2 show that shims must be added to the original shim set. Use this shim set as a reference. The final adjustment of the shim set is according to the contact pattern on the ring gear teeth. See Figure 3-21.

Figure 3-17. Differential Assembly Legend for Figure 3-17.

1. THRUST WASHER 2. SIDE GEAR 3. DIFFERENTIAL PINION 4. ADJUSTING NUT 5. BEARING ASSEMBLY 6. SHAFT 7. DIFFERENTIAL CASE 8. ROLL PIN 9. RING GEAR 10. PINION

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 Installation of the pinion assembly: (See Figure 3-19.)

1. Install the oil seal in the housing. Install the inner bearing cup in the housing. Install the shims and the outer bearing cup.

2. Install the pinion in the transmission housing. Install the inner bearing cone on the pinion. Install the output gear.

3. Install and tighten the pinion nut. Measure the gauge distance and add or remove shims until the measurement is within 126.9 to 127.1 mm (4.996 to 5.004 in).

EXAMPLES Number on OLD PINION minus the number on the NEW PINION SHIMS to be REMOVED FROM or ADDED TO the OLD SET EXAMPLES Number on OLD PINION minus the number on the NEW PINION SHIMS to be REMOVED FROM or ADDED TO the OLD SET

1 +0.31 -(+0.26) +0.05 mm Add 3 +0.26 -(+0.31) - 0.05 mm Remove

2 0.31(-0.26) +0.57 mm Add 4 0.26 - (+0.31) - 0.57 mm Remove

Figure 3-18. Adjustment Of The Shims For The Pinion Assembly 1. When the measurement in Step 3 is correct, adjust the preload on the pinion bearings. Tighten the nut on the pinion shaft until the rotating torque is 5.4 to 5.9 Nm (47.8 to 52.2 lbf in). When the preload is correct, install the lock washer and lock nut. Lubricate the lock washer with grease before installation. Bend the tabs on the lock washer to keep the nuts in position.

Assemble the differential and ring gear assembly: 1. If the ring gear was removed from the differential case, put the ring gear in hot water that is 82 to 1 050C (180 to 2200F) for approximately ten minutes. Remove the ring gear from the water and put it on the differential case.

Do not use a press or a hammer to install the ring gear. Tighten the special capscrews to 152 to 167 Nm (112 to 123 lbfft).

2. Lubricate and install the side gears and thrust washer in the differential case.

3. Install the differential pinions and the shaft. Install the roll pin that holds the shaft in the case.

4. Install the bearing cones on the differential case.

5. Apply axle lubricant on the inner diameter of the bearing cups and on both bearing cones that are installed on the differential. Do not permit lubricant on the outer diameter of the bearing cups or the bearing bores of the differential housing.

6. Install the differential assembly into the transmission housing. Install the bearing cups, adjusting nuts and bearing caps.

7. Install the capscrews for the bearing caps and tighten them to approximately 68 Nm (50 lbf ft). Use your hand to tighten each adjusting nut against the bearing cup.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-19. Ring Gear And Pinion Arrangement Legend for Figure 3-19.

1. BALL BEARING 2. LOCKNUT 3. LOCKWASHER 4. NUT 5. WASHER 6. OUTPUT GEAR 7. BEARING ASSEMBLY 8. OIL SEAL 9. SHIMS 10. CASE 11. PINION 12. BEARING CAP 13. GAUGE DISTANCE = 127 mm (4.99 in) 8. Tighten the adjusting nuts to remove the clearance between the adjusting nuts and the bear-ings. Make sure there is clearance between the ring gear and pinion. Loosen the adjusting nut only until there is zero clearance between the bearings and the adjusting nuts. Tighten one adjusting nut four notches more than zero clearance to put a preload on the bearings. The correct rotating torque of the differential assembly is 2.9 to 3.4 Nm (25.7 to 30.1 lbf in).

9. Check the clearance between the ring gear and pinion. The ring gear and pinion must have a clearance of 0.18 to 0.23 mm (0.007 to 0.009 in). (See Figure 3-20.) Move the ring gear towards the pinion to decrease the clearance. Move the ring gear away from the pinion to increase the clearance. Loosen one adjusting nut the same amount as the other adjusting nut is tightened to adjust the clearance between the ring gear and pinion.

When the clearance is correct, apply a thread locking adhesive to the capscrews for the bearing caps. Tighten the capscrews to 263 to 314 Nm (194to2321bfft).

10. Check the pattern on the teeth of the ring gear by applying grease to the teeth. Put a prybar between the ring gear and the housing to keep the ring gear from turning freely. Turn the pinion shaft. Compare the pattern on the ring gear teeth with the patterns shown in Figure 3-21. Adjust the gear clearances as necessary. An adjustment of the pinion to move the contact pattern also normally requires an adjustment of the ring gear clearance as described in step m.

11. Measure the outside diameter of the case as shown in Figure 3-16. Compare the dimension with the measurement made during disassembly. They will be approximately the same. The inside diameter of the support in the axle housing for the case is 254.0 to 254.1 mm (9.99 to 10.00 in).

12. When all adjustments are complete, install the cotter pins for the adjusting nuts.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-20. Check The Clearance Between The Ring Gear And Pinion

STEP 1.

Apply a colored dye or grease to approximately 12 of the ring gear teeth.

STEP 2.

Apply a small friction load to the edge ol the ring gear so that the ring gear does not turn easily. Rotate the ring gear one revolution by turning the pinion.

STEP 3.

Check the tooth contact pattern on the ring gear. Make sure that the pattern is checked on the side of the tooth where the pinion applies the force.

CORRECT TOOTH CONTACT

The contact area is the center between the top and the bottom of the tooth. The contact area is toward the inner circumference of the ring gear.

WRONG TOOTH CONTACT

The contact area is the center between the top and the bottom of the tooth. The contact area will be almost the full length of the tooth.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

The pinion is too far away from the center of the The pinion is too close to the center of the ring gear. ring gear. Move the ring gear away from the Move the ring gear toward the pinion, or remove pinion or, add shims to move pinion toward ring shims to move pinion away from the ring gear. Check gear. Check that the gear clearance is correct. that the gear clearance is correct. Remember, Remember, moving the pinion will change the moving the pinion will change the gauge distance. gauge distance Figure 3-21. Adjust The Ring Gear And Pinion Tooth Contact CONTROL VALVE (See Figure 3-22.)

Removal 1. Clean the area around the control valve.

2. Disconnect the inching spool from the crank. Disconnect the wires from the solenoid valve.

3. Remove the capscrews that hold the control valve to the transmission. Remove the control valve. Put a cover on top of the transmission to keep dirt from inside of the transmission.

4. Remove the solenoid valve from the control valve. Disassemble the solenoid valve as necessary. Only the 0-rings and solenoid coil can be replaced. See Figure 3-23.

5. Remove the stop (10) for the modulator. Remove the modulator and springs.

6. Remove the pin from the inching spool. Remove the spring seat, spring and plunger (9).

Disassembly WARNING There are compressed springs in the control valve. Carefully remove the covers so that the compressed springs do not cause injury.

1. Remove the cover (9). Remove the clutch pressure regulator piston, the springs, and stopper (5). Keep the springs with the regulator.

2. Remove the inching spool assembly.

3. Remove the pin from the inching spool (10). Remove the stopper (8), the springs, and piston (3).

Inspection 1. Make sure there are no scratches or damage on the spools or in the bores.

2. Check that the springs are not bent or damaged.

3. Make sure the spools move freely in their bores.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-22. Control Valve Legend for Figure 3-22.

1. VALVE BODY 2. CHECK PORT PLUG 3. PISTON 4. SPRING 5. STOPPER 6. GASKET 7. PIN 8. STOPPER 9. COVER 10. INCHING SPOOL 11. STOPPER 12. SNAP RING 13. OIL SEAL Assembly NOTE: Lubricate the parts of the control valve with clean transmission oil during assembly.

1. Install the piston (3) on the inching spool. Install the spring, stopper (8), and the pin.

2. Install the clutch pressure regulator piston, the springs, and stopper (5). Install the inching spool assembly, the spring, and a new oil seal (13).

3. Install a new gasket (7) on the cover (6). Install the cover and tighten the capscrews to 12 to 15 Nm (9 to 11 lbfft).

Installation 1. Assemble the solenoid valve as shown in Figure 3-23. Use new 0-rings and install the solenoid valve.

2. Use a new gasket and install the control valve on the transmission. Tighten the capscrews for the control valve 61 Nm (45 lbf ft). Connect the wires at the solenoid valve.

3. Connect the inching spool to the crank.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-23. Solenoid Valve Legend for Figure 3-23.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

VALVE BODY 0-RING COVER SOLENOID COIL TUBE PLUG

SHIFT LEVER Removal and Disassembly (See Figure 3-24.)

1. Remove the cover for the steering column.

2. Disconnect the wires at the switches for the shift lever. Make sure the wires have identification marks for correct installation.

3. Remove the capscrews that hold the mount for the shift lever to the steering housing. Remove the shift lever assembly.

4. Disassemble the shift lever assembly as necessary.

Assembly and Installation (See Figure 3-24.)

1. Install the switches, stops and jam nuts in the mount.

2. Lubricate the pins (7) and actuators (8) with grease. Install the pins, actuators and spacers in the mount.Install the clips in the pins. Make sure the actuators fit on top of the switches.

3. Install the spring and detent ball in the shift lever. Install the shift lever in the mount. Install the bracket on the shift lever. Install the capscrews for the bracket. Lubricate the detent ball the the bottom surface of the detent pins with grease.

4. Adjust the height of the stops to 26 mm (1.02 in). Tighten the jam nuts. See Figure 3-25.

5. Install the mount on the steering housing. Connect the wires to the switches. The brown wire goes to the FORWARD switch. The light green wire goes to the REVERSE switch.

6. Adjust the height of the switches. See Figure 3-25. Adjust the FORWARD switch so that it is actuated at a point half-way between the detent positions for NEUTRAL and FORWARD. After the adjustment is correct, rotate the

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 switch clockwise approximately 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. The height of the nut on the switch will be approximately 10 mm (0.4 in). Adjust the REVERSE switch so that it is actuated at a point half-way between the detent positions for NEUTRAL and REVERSE. After the adjustment is correct, rotate the switch clockwise approximately 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. The height of the nut on the switch will be approximately 10 mm (0.4 in).

7. Start the engine and check that the shift lever operates the transmission correctly.

Figure 3-24. Shift Lever Arrangement NOTE: THE SHIFT LEVER CAN EXTEND FROM THE RIGHT SIDE, LEFT SIDE OR BOTH SIDES OF THE STEERING COLUMN. Legend for Figure 3-24.

1. SHIFT LEVER 2. KNOB 3. BUSHING 4. SPRING 5. DETENT BALL 6. CLIP 7. PIVOT PIN 8. ACTUATOR 9. SPACER 10. SWITCH 11. MOUNT 12. BRACKET 13. STOP 14. JAM NUT

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-25. Shift Lever Adjustment Legend for Figure 3-25.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

SHIFT LEVER STOP JAM NUT REVERSE SWITCH FORWARD SWITCH ACTUATOR MOUNT

FOOT DIRECTIONAL CONTROL PEDAL Removal and Disassembly (See Figure 3-26.)

1. Disconnect the wires at the transmission. Note the position of the throttle cable and link before removal to aid in installation. Disconnect the throttle cable. Remove the capscrew that holds the pedal to the bracket, then remove the pedal.

2. Remove the straps that hold the wires to the pedal. Loosen the set screws in the pedal pad 3 to 4 turns and remove the pivot pin. Remove the pedal pad and spring.

3. Remove the retainer for the wires. Loosen the screws for the switches, then remove the switches and wires.

4. If necessary, remove the lock nuts for the magnets, then remove the magnets from the pedal frame. Make sure the screws are tight in the magnets. Use a thread locking compound on the screws if they are loose in the magnets.

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-26. Foot Directional Control Pedal Legend for Figure 3-26.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

PEDAL PAD PEDAL FRAME MAGNET PIVOT SHAFT SPRING MAGNET PLATE SWITCH

Assembly and Installation (See Figure 3-26. Through Figure 3-30.)

1. Install the switches and wires in the pedal pad. Align the surface of the switches with the machined surface of the mount in the pedal pad. The switches must be even with or below the alignment surface as shown in Figure 3-27. Install the retainer for the wires.

Figure 3-27. Foot Directional Control Pedal Switches Legend for Figure 3-27.

1. PEDAL PAD 2. SWITCH

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 3. ALIGNMENT SURFACE 4. SURFACE OF SWITCH NOTE: These sealed switches can only be repaired as an assembly.

1. Put the wires through the hole in the pedal frame. Install the spring and pedal pad on the pedal frame. Install the pivot pin. Apply a thread locking compound to the set screws. Install and tighten the set screws. Use straps to hold the wires to the pedal frame.

2. See Figure 3-28. Do the following procedure to check and adjust the pedal assembly: a. Put the pedal assembly in a vise. Use a dial indicator to measure the movement of the pedal pad. b. Push the REVERSE side of the pedal. Put the dial indicator on the Reverse side of the pedal pad as shown.

Loosen the lock nut and rotate the screw for the magnet counterclockwise until it stops. Set the dial indicator to zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge needle moves 0.25 mm (0.01 in) from zero. This adjustment makes sure the magnet is in contact with the plate in the pedal pad. Rotate the screw for the magnet counterclockwise until the gauge needle indicates zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge needle indicates 0.05 mm (0.002 in) movement. Tighten the lock nut to 5.2 Nm (46 lbf in) torque without changing the adjustment. c.

Push on the FORWARD side of the pedal. Put the dial indicator on the Forward side of the pedal pad as shown. Loosen the lock nut and rotate the screw for the magnet counterclockwise until it stops. Set the dial indicator to zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge needle moves 0.25 mm (0.01 in) from zero. This adjustment makes sure the magnet is in contact with the plate in the pedal pad. Rotate the screw for the magnet counterclockwise until the gauge needle indicates zero. Rotate the screw for the magnet clockwise until the gauge needle indicates 0.05 mm (0.002 in) movement. Tighten the lock nut to 5.2 Nm (46 lbf in) torque without changing the adjustment.

d. Use an ohmmeter to check the operation of the switches. When the FORWARD side of the pedal is depressed, there must be a complete circuit between the red (battery) and black (forward solenoid) wires.

When the REVERSE side of the pedal is depressed, there must be a complete circuit between the red (battery) and yellow (reverse solenoid) wires. e. Push on the FORWARD side of the pedal. Put the dial indicator on the FORWARD side of the pedal pad as shown. Connect an ohmmeter between the red and black wires. Check that there is a complete circuit between the wires. Push on the REVERSE side of the pedal. The pedal must move 1.00 mm (0.039 in) minimum from the FORWARD position before the circuit is disconnected.

Figure 3-28. Adjustment Of The Foot Directional Control Pedal Legend for Figure 3-28.

1.

2.

3.

4.

LOCKNUT MAGNET PLATE DIAL INDICATOR

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2 5. PEDAL FRAME 6. PEDAL PAD NOTE: For the correct operation of the foot directional control pedal, the magnets must have the correct strength.

1. See Figure 3-29. Test the strength of the magnets as follows: a. Put the pedal assembly in a vise. Use a spring scale to change the pedal from the FORWARD and REVERSE positions as shown in Figure 3-29. b. When pushing on the spring scale, it must take 13.3 to 31.1 N (3.6 to 7.0 lb) to change from FORWARD to REVERSE and REVERSE to FORWARD positions. If the force is not within the specifications, replace the magnet(s).

Figure 3-29. Check The Magnets For The Foot Directional Control Pedal Legend for Figure 3-29.

1. PEDAL PAD 2. SPRING SCALE 1. With the pad located in either FORWARD or REVERSE check to assure a minimum of 2.0 mm (0.079 in) total pad travel when changed to the opposite position. If 2.0 mm (0.079 in) is not obtained do the adjustment again. If the 2.0 mm (0.079 in) is still not obtained replace the pedal pad.

2. Install the capscrew, washers, tube and nut that hold the pedal assembly to the bracket. Connect the link between the pedal and the crank noted during removal.

3. Install the pedal return springs. Make sure the throttle cable is connected to the correct position as noted during removal.

1. Operate the lift truck until the engine and transmission are at normal operating temperatures. Connect a tachometer to the engine. When the engine is at the normal operating temperature, make sure the engine will operate at the governor speed limit.

2. Start the engine and tilt the mast backward. Put blocks under the outer mast channels. Tilt the mast forward to raise the drive wheels from the surface.

3. All oil pressures are checked with the engine operating at 2000 rpm. The operating temperature of the transmission oil is 65 to 700C (150 to 1600F).

Check The Transmission Pump Pressure, TEST PORT NO.1 Apply the parking brake. Put the shift lever in NEUTRAL. If the pressure from the transmission is not 1170 to 1470 kPa (170 to 213 psi), see the TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.

Check The Torque Converter Inlet Pressure, TEST PORT NO.2 Apply the parking brake. Put the shift lever in NEUTRAL. If the pressure from the transmission is not 296 to 685 kPa (43 to 100 psi), see the TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.

Check The Clutch Pressure, TEST PORT NO.3

Sheet 8: Transmission--Part 2

Figure 3-30. Foot Directional Control Pedal Legend for Figure 3-30.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

PEDAL PAD LINK CRANK PEDAL FRAME FORWARD SOLENOID (BLACK WIRE) BATTERY (RED WIRE) REVERSE SOLENOID (YELLOW WIRE)

Sheet 9: Transmission--Part 3 TRANSMISSION PRESSURE TESTS See the TROUBLESHOOTING table for reasons that cause pressures that do not meet the specifications. Test Ports 1 to 3 are shown in Figure 3-31. These test ports are normally used to check the operation of the transmission.

Install three 0 to 2000 kPa (0 to 300 psi) pressure gauges in the test ports shown in Figure 3-31. The regulators in this transmission are adjustable. The pressure tests are for troubleshooting. Before checking the oil pressures, do the following: 1. Put the transmission in FORWARD. If the pressure is not 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi), see the TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.

2. Run the engine at 2000 rpm and push the inching pedal down. The clutch pressure must decrease to approximately zero pressure when the inching pedal is fully pushed down.

3. Put the transmission in REVERSE. If the pressure is not 1075 to 1370 kPa (156 to 200 psi), see the TROUBLESHOOTING procedures.

4. Run the engine at 2000 rpm and push the inching pedal down. The clutch pressure must decrease to approximately zero pressure when the inching pedal is fully pushed down.

5. The difference in the Forward and Reverse clutch pressures can not be more than 100 kPa (15 psi). A larger difference in clutch pressures indicates a problem.

TRANSMISSION PRESSURES ITEM Test Port No.1 Test Port No.2 Test Port No.3 TORQUE CONVERTER STALL SPEEDS ENGINE YALE FEE Gasoline LPG YALEXA

SPECIFICATION 1170-1470 kPa (170-213 psi) 296-685 kPa (43-100 psi) 1075-1370 kPa (156-200 psi)

SPEED 1482 to 1682 rpm 1435 to 1635 rpm 1679to1879rpm

Figure 3-31. Pressure Test Ports, Torque Converter Housing and Control Valve Legend for Figure 3-31.

1. TEST PORT NO.1 PUMP PRESSURE 2. TEST PORT NO.2 TORQUE CONVERTER INLET 3. TEST PORT NO.3 CLUTCH PRESSURE TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE OR ACTION

Sheet 9: Transmission--Part 3 Engine will not start.

Transmission is too hot.

The parking brake is not applied or the transmission is not in NEUTRAL. The parking brake is applied but the switch in the parking brake lever is not operating correctly.

The neutral start switches at the direction control lever are not connected, out of adjustment or have damage.

Operator slipping clutches.

Excessive inching and trying to push or move loads greater than capacity.

Oil level is not correct.

Clutch does not engage completely Clutch pressure is too low.

Worn or wrong friction discs or separator plates.

Engine coolant level low. Radiator core dirty. Cooling system pressure not to specification.

Oil cooler in radiator has a restriction.

Bubbles in the oil fill tube.

The torque converter is worn or has damage.

Clutch discs are bent, release springs are weak or clutch is not fully releasing.

Charge pump is worn or damaged.

Clutch assembly will not disengage completely because orifice in piston has a restriction.

Air leak on the suction side of the transmission charge pump.

Oil level is not correct. level.

Water in the oil.

Oil is too hot.

The torque converter is damaged.

Lift truck will not move in either direction. Engine is running, direction control lever is in position for travel, and parking brake is released.

Switches at direction control lever. have damage or are not connected

Transmission oil level is too low.

Axle shaft(s) or transmission/differential is damaged.

Brakes are not released.

Forward and Reverse solenoids do not operate.

Transmission pump is damaged.

Apply parking brake and put transmission control lever in NEUTRAL. Check and adjust switch. Install new switch.

Check connections and adjust switches. Install new switches or parts as necessary.

Train the operator. Evaluate application. Handle only loads within rated capacity.

Check oil level. Fill as required.

Check for leaks.

Install new parts as required.

Check and adjust pressure(s).Repair or install new pressure regulator valve(s). Repair or install new charge pump.

Install new discs and plates.

Check and fill cooling system. Clean radiator core. Check system pressure. Install new radiator cap.

Flush oil cooler. If problem not corrected, install new oil cooler or radiator.

Preform stall test. Repair or install new torque converter.

Repair and install new parts.

Overhaul transmission.

Repair or install new charge pump.

Remove restriction. Clean system.

Fill with correct clean oil.

Repair leak. Install new parts as required.

Check and adjust oil to the correct level.

Check oil supply and storage. Oil cooler has damage. Install new oil cooler or radiator. Drain system and fill with clean oil.

See 'Transmission is too hot.'

Preform stall test. Repair or install new torque converter.

Check wiring and adjust switches.

Install new switches.

Check and fill to correct level.

Check for leaks.

Repair or install new parts Check operation of parking and service brakes. Repair as required.

Check switches at control lever.

Check wiring to solenoids. Check solenoids. Install new parts as required.

Check pressures at the control valve. Install new pump.

Sheet 9: Transmission--Part 3 Pressure regulator(s) is in the open position.

Direction spool will not move.

Torque converter is disconnected from the flywheel.

Tube to direction spool is damaged or disconnected.

Control valve gasket is damaged.

Control valve is damaged.

Lift truck moves in one direction only.

Clutch parts are damaged.

Clutch for the direction selected not engaged.

Clutch for opposite direction is not releasing.

Control valve gasket is damaged.

Control valve is damaged.

Inching operation is not smooth.

Brakes are not correctly adjusted.

Check operation of pressure regulators. Repair or install new parts.

Check operation of directional spool. Repair or install new spool.

Check torque converter mounting hardware. Repair as required.

Check tube. Connect or install new tube.

Remove control valve and check gasket. Install new gasket.

Check operation of control valve.

Install new control valve.

Check clutch pressure. Check operation of control valve.

Check pressure for clutch that is not operating at the control valve.

Make sure directional spool in control valve is operating correctly.

Check to make sure the clutch pressure goes to zero when opposite direction is selected.

Remove control valve and check gasket. Install new gasket.

Check operation of control valve.

Install new control valve.

Adjust brakes.

Inching spool or plunger does not move freely.

Broken spring(s) for inching spool or plunger.

Clutch piston does not move freely.

Control valve has leaks.

Clutch discs are bent or burned.

Inching linkage is not adjusted correctly.

Repair or install new parts.

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE OR ACTION

Clutches do not engage.

(Clutch operating pressures are not correct)

Transmission pump is damaged.

Check pressures at the control valve.

Install new springs.

Repair or install new parts.

Repair or install new control valve.

Repair or install new clutch discs.

Adjust linkage.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Control valve gasket is damaged.

Clutch piston does not move.

Clutch piston seal has a leak.

Modulator valve has a leak.

Direction spool does not move freely.

Friction discs are bent or damaged.

Regulator valves are damaged.

Install new pump.

Remove control valve. Install new gasket.

Check the operation of the modulator Valve to determine if the piston Moves. Disassemble transmission And repair clutch piston.

Check for correct pressure.

Disassemble transmission and install new clutch piston seal.

Check operation of modulator valve.

Repair modulator valve. Install new control valve.

Check operation of direction spool.

Repair or install new control valve.

Repair and install new parts.

Overhaul transmission.

Check pressures. Repair or install

Sheet 9: Transmission--Part 3 0-ring on clutch shaft is damaged.

0-rings for solenoid valve stems in the control valve are damaged.

Parts in the control valve are damaged.

Pressure at the torque converter check port is not correct.

The pressure for the relief valve of the transmission pump is not correct.

Spring or spool for the torque converter regulator is damaged.

There is a leak or restriction in the circuit for the torque converter.

The oil cooler circuit has a leak or restriction.

TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEM All pressures are too low.

POSSIBLE CAUSE Oil level is not correct.

Pressure at the relief valve for the transmission pump is not correct.

Worn transmission oil pump.

Pressure regulators are stuck open.

Leaks inside the transmission.

Pressure at the relief valve for the transmission pump is not correct.

Clutch pressure is not correct.

Oil level is not correct.

Worn transmission oil pump.

Oil filter has a restriction.

Spring for pump relief valve is damaged. Spool does not move.

The pressure for the relief valve of the transmission pump is not correct.

Clutch regulator is not operating correctly or has damage.

Linkage for the inching spool is not adjusted correctly.

Inching spool and/or direction spool are not operating correctly.

Forward and Reverse solenoids do not operate correctly.

Seals for clutch piston leak.

new regulator valves.

Check clutch pressure.

Disassemble Transmission and install new 0-ring on clutch shaft.

Check operation of solenoid valves.

Install new 0-rings or new solenoid valve.

Check operation and pressures of control valve. Repair or install new control valve.

Check and adjust the pressure relief valve for the transmission pump.

Check, clean, and install new parts as required. Adjust the torque Converter pressure.

Check, clean, repair, and install new parts as required.

Check, clean, repair, and install new parts as required.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION Check oil level. Fill as required.

Check for leaks.

See next problem, "Pressure at the relief valve for the transmission pump is not correct."

Install new pump.

Check operation of the regulator valves. Install new parts as required.

Check the operation of each spool in the control valve.

Check oil level. Fill as required.

Check for leaks.

Install new pump.

Install new filter.

Check, clean, and install new parts as required.

Check and adjust linkage for the inching spool.

Check, clean, repair, and install new parts as required.

Check switches at control lever.

Check wiring to solenoids. Check solenoids. Install new parts as required.

Verify that clutch piston seals are leaking by checking the pressure during the operation of the modulator valve. Disassemble transmission and install new piston seals.

Sheet 10: Drive Axle DRIVE AXLE This section has the description and repair procedures for the drive axle, wheel bearings and the mounts for the axle housing. Information for the differential, and ring and pinion gears is in SECTION 3, SINGLE-SPEED POWERSHIFT TRANSMISSION.

Figure 4-1. Parts Of The Drive Axle Legend for Figure 4-1.

1. BRAKE ASSEMBLY 2. AXLE HOUSING 3. BREATHER 4. PLUG 5. NUT 6. WASHER 7. STUD 8. LEVEL PLUG 9. DRAIN PLUG 10. CAPSCREW 11. AXLE SHAFT 12. ADJUSTMENT NUT 13. LOCKPLATE 14. BEARING

Sheet 10: Drive Axle 15. HUB/BRAKE DRUM 16. OUTER SEAL 17. INNERSEAL DESCRIPTION (See Figure 4-1.)

The drive axle is mounted directly to the frame and is held in place by two caps. These caps are fastened to the frame of the lift truck by capscrews. The differential housing can move a small amount in the axle mounts. The outer ends of the axle housing are the spindles for the wheel bearings. The wheel bearings are tapered-roller bearings with the cups pressed into the hub. The nut on the end of the spindle holds and adjusts the wheel bearings. The axle shafts are fastened to the hubs by capscrews. The back plate and brake assembly are fastened to the axle housing.

The axle housing is also the mount for the mast.

The outer wheel bearing is lubricated with gear oil from the differential housing. The inner wheel bearing is lubricated with wheel bearing grease.

REPAIRS Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 4-1.)

WARNING When the lift truck is put on blocks, make sure the surface is solid, even, and level. Any blocks used to support the lift truck must be solid and one-piece.

1. Put blocks on each side (front and back) of the steering tires to prevent movement of the lift truck.

2. Raise the lift truck and put blocks under the frame so that the drive wheels just touch the floor. Put blocks under the counterweight for stability.

3. Remove the mast assembly as described in SECTION 9, MAST. 4. Drain the oil from the differential.

5. Remove the wheels. Remove the capscrews that hold the axle shafts to the hub/brake drums. Remove the axle shafts.

6. Bend the lockplate and remove the nut from the spindle. Remove the washer and bearing cone. Slide the hub and brake drum from the spindle. If the assembly can not be removed easily, loosen the brake shoes. Put a screwdriver through the hole in the back plate to turn the adjuster wheel and loosen the brake shoes. Pull the actuator away from the adjuster wheel while the adjuster wheel is turned up.

7. Disconnect the brake lines to the wheel cylinders. Disconnect the parking brake cables at the parking brake lever. Loosen the cable clamps for the parking brake cables.

8. Put blocks under the differential housing and the transmission housing. Remove the capscrews that hold the axle housing to the transmission housing. Remove the capscrews that hold the mounting caps for the drive axle.

9. Remove the brake assembly as described in SECTION 5, BRAKE SYSTEM. Remove the back plate from the mounts for the axle housing.

Cleaning And Inspection WARNING Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the solvent manufacturer's safety precautions.

1. Clean all the parts of the drive axle with solvent.

2. Inspect the bearings and seals for damage. The spindles must turn freely in the mounts. The splines for the axle shafts must not be damaged.

Assembly And Installation (See Figure 4-1.)

1. Attach the back plate to the axle housing. Apply Loctite to the mounting studs and tighten the nuts to 102 Nm (75

Sheet 10: Drive Axle lbf ft). Assemble the brake assembly onto the axle housing as described in the SECTION 5, BRAKE SYSTEM. 2. Install the axle housing onto the transmission and frame. Attach the mount caps and tighten the capscrews to 72 Nm (53 lbf ft).

3. Install new grease seals in the hub. Install the outer seal with the lip toward the outer bearing. Install the inner bearing and seal. Put wheel bearing grease in the bearing that is between the seals.

4. Install the hub/brake drum assembly on the axle housing.

5. Install the outer bearing cone on the axle housing. Install the washer and lockplate. Install the adjustment nut.

Rotate the hub/brake drum and tighten the adjustment nut until the hub/brake drum will not rotate. Loosen the adjustment nut 300 to 600 of rotation. Tighten the adjustment nut to 3.6 Nm (32 lbf in). Bend tabs of the lock-plate over the adjustment nut. See Figure 4-2. and Figure 4-3.

Figure 4-2. Install The Lock Plate 1. Adjust the clearance of the brake shoes as described in SECTION 5, BRAKE SYSTEM. 2. Install the wheels and wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts to 124 Nm (91 lbfft).

3. Put sealant on the flange of the axle shaft. Install the axle shafts and capscrews. Tighten the capscrews to 66 Nm (49lbfft).

4. Install and tighten the drain plug. Fill the differential housing with SAE 90 EP gear oil through the fill hole. Install the plug. Connect the brake lines and parking brake cables. Remove the air from the brake system as described in SECTION 5, BRAKE SYSTEM. 5. Install the mast as described in SECTION 9, MAST.

Sheet 10: Drive Axle

Figure 4-3. Hub Assembly Legend for Figure 4-3.

1.

2.

3.

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OUTER SEAL HUB/BRAKE DRUM INNER SEAL DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING BEARING CUP AND CONE LOCK PLATE AXLE SHAFT ADJUSTMENT NUT WASHER

TROUBLESHOOTING TROUBLE The lift truck will not move.

The drive axle has leaks.

The drive axle makes noise.

POSSIBLE CAUSE An axle shaft is broken.

The drain or fill plug has damaged missing part.

The 0-rings or seals have damage.

The drive axle housing is cracked.

The bearings have damage.

The brake assembly is damaged.

The oil level is low.

The axle mounting capscrews are loose.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION Install new axle shaft.

Repair threads. Tighten plug.

Install missing part.

Install new 0-rings and seals.

Install new drive axle housing.

Install new parts.

Repair brake assembly.

Fill as required. Check for leaks.

Tighten capscrews to specified torque.

Sheet 10: Drive Axle TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ITEM Axle Mounts to Frame Capscrews Axle Shaft Capscrews Back Plate to Axle Housing Nuts Wheel Nuts

SPECIFICATION 72 Nm (53 lbf ft) 66 Nm (49 lbf ft) 102 Nm (75 lbfft) 124 Nm (91 lbf ft)

Sheet 11: Brake System BRAKE SYSTEM This section has a description and the service procedures for the parts of the brake system. The brake system includes the following parts: master cylinder, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, an inching/brake pedal and linkage, and the parking brake system. A troubleshooting section is included at the end of this section.

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Service Brake A very small hole is drilled between the inlet port and the pressure chamber. The hole is just in front of the primary cup when the piston is against the stop washer. The hole is a compensator port to permit fluid to flow between the reservoir and the pressure chamber. The fluid expands because of the heat from using the brakes. The additional volume of the expanded fluid flows through the compensator port when the pedal is fully released. If the push rod is adjusted so that there is no clearance, the compensator port can be closed by the primary cup. This condition can cause the brakes to be applied without pushing the pedal.

The master cylinder has a housing, a piston with two ring cups, a return spring and a check valve assembly. The reservoir for the fluid is separate from the master cylinder. When the brake pedal is pushed, the push rod moves the piston assembly. The primary cup forces the brake fluid through the check valve to the wheel cylinders. The secondary cup keeps the fluid that is behind the primary cup in the master cylinder.

When the brake pedal is released, the return spring pushes the piston assembly back against the retainer washer.

The return springs for the brake shoes force the fluid that is in the wheel cylinders back through the lines to the check valve. The pressure in the lines moves the check valve from its seat. The fluid flows around the check valve to the master cylinder bore.

When the brake pedal is released quickly, the return spring moves the piston faster than the brake fluid can flow around the check valve. To prevent cavitation, holes are drilled in the piston. Fluid from the inlet port flows through the holes. The fluid bends the lip of the primary cup and permits fluid to enter the pressure chamber.

The check valve assembly permits fluid from the pressure chamber to flow to the lines when the brake pedal is pushed. When the pressure in the pressure chamber is greater than pressure in the lines, the check valve will open.

When the brake pedal is released, the pressure in the lines is greater than the pressure in the pressure chamber.

The check valve assembly then moves against the spring pressure to permit fluid to return to the pressure chamber.

The check valve assembly returns to its seat when the pressure in the lines decreases to less than the spring pressure. This action keeps a low pressure in the wheel cylinders to hold the lips of the seals against the bores. This low pressure prevents leaks, but cannot apply the brake shoes.

Sheet 11: Brake System

Figure 5-1. Brake System Legend for Figure 5-1.

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2.

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7.

BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR PARKING BRAKE LEVER ADJUSTMENT KNOB INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL MASTER CYLINDER PARKING BRAKE CABLES BRAKEASSEMBLY

A service brake assembly is installed at each end of the drive axle. The parts of the brake assembly are shown in Figure 5-2. and Figure 5-3. When the brake pedal is pushed, fluid pressure from the master cylinder causes the pistons in the wheel cylinder to move out. The pistons cause the brake shoes to expand against the drum.

Sheet 11: Brake System

Figure 5-2. Brake Assembly (Left Brake Assembly Shown) Legend for Figure 5-2.

1. ANCHOR 2. ANCHOR GUIDE 3. LINK 4. WHEEL CYLINDER 5. RETURN SPRING 6. BRAKE SHOE 7. SPRING 8. ACTUATOR LEVER 9. RETAINER SPRING ASSEMBLY 10. BACKPLATE 11. ACTUATOR SPRING 12. ADJUSTER WHEELACTUATOR 13. PLUG 14. ADJUSTERWHEEL 15. ADJUSTER SPRING 16. PARKING BRAKE CABLE 17. PARKING BRAKE LEVER 18. PARKING BRAKE LINK 19. PIVOT PIN The clearance between the brake shoes and the brake drum is adjusted automatically. The adjuster linkage turns the adjuster wheel to adjust the clearance. The primary (front) shoe and the adjuster links move with the drum during a stop when the lift truck is moving in the REVERSE direction. The linkage permits the adjuster lever to rotate the adjuster wheel. The adjuster wheel can turn only when there is clearance between the lining and the brake drum.

The adjuster wheel can also be turned manually. A hole in the drum is used to get access to the adjuster wheel.

Parking Brake

Sheet 11: Brake System The parking brake system uses the service brake shoes. Additional linkage activates the parking brake system.

When the lever is moved to apply the parking brake, the cables and linkage expand the brake shoes against the drums. The parking brake linkage adjusts each cable so that the tension is the same when the lever is moved to apply parking brake.

SERVICE BRAKES Removal And Disassembly WARNING Brake linings can contain dangerous fibers. Inhaling the dust from these brake linings is a cancer or lung disease hazard. Do not make dust! Do not clean brake parts with compressed air or by brushing. Use vacuum equipment approved for brake dust or follow the cleaning procedure in this section. When the brake drums are removed, do not create dust.

Do not sand, grind, chisel, hammer, or change linings in any way that will make dust. Any changes to brake linings must be done in a restricted area with special ventilation. Protective clothing and a respirator must be used.

1. Remove the capscrews that hold the axle shaft to the hub. Remove the axle shaft. Install a plug in the axle shaft housing to prevent oil from leaking from the housing.

2. See the procedure "How To Put A Lift Truck On Blocks' in SECTION 2, GENERAL LIFT TRUCK INFORMATION AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE. Start the engine and tilt the mast fully backward. Put blocks under the mast. Tilt the mast fully forward until the wheels are off the floor. Put grease on the floor under the wheels so that the wheel assembly will slide easily from the axle. Tilt the mast backward until the wheels are just touching the floor. Stop the engine. Put blocks under the frame of the lift truck.

3. Bend the lockplate and remove the nut that holds the axle bearing. Remove the washer and the bearing cone.

4. Pull the wheel assembly from the lift truck. If the wheel assembly cannot be removed easily, use a small screwdriver to push the adjuster actuator away from the adjuster wheel. Use a brake adjuster or a screwdriver to turn the adjuster wheel to loosen the brake shoes. Remove the hub and drum assembly. Do not damage the grease seal when removing the hub.

WARNING When the brake shoes are removed do not make dust in the air. See the cleaning procedure in this section.

5. Make a note of the arrangement of the parts. See Figure 5-3. Remove the return springs (7) with spring pliers.

6. Remove the retainers, springs, and anchor pins that hold the brake shoes to the back plate.

7. Disengage the link (9) from the actuator (8) for the adjuster wheel. Remove the link (9). Remove the anchor guide (6).

8. Move the brake shoes away from each other to disengage the brake shoes from the wheel cylinder. Disconnect the parking brake lever (17) from the parking brake cable (12) as the brake assembly is removed from the back plate. The parking brake lever has a hook that engages the parking brake cable.

NOTE: The adjuster wheel for the left brake is not the same as the adjuster wheel for the right brake. The adjuster wheel for the right brake has left-hand threads.

9. Make a note of the arrangement of parts and disassemble the brake assembly. Remove the parking brake link (3) and spring (4) if they are still engaged with brake shoes. The parking brake link and spring will frequently fall from the brake assembly when the brake assembly is removed from the back plate. The adjuster wheel (14) will also disengage from the brake shoes after the brake assembly is removed.

10. Remove the spring (16) for the adjuster wheel actuator (13). Remove the adjuster wheel actuator (13) from the brake shoe.

11. Use a screwdriver or small prybar to separate the ends of the retainer (15). Remove the pivot pin (19) to remove the parking brake lever (17) from the brake shoe (5).

Sheet 11: Brake System 12. Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder (2). Remove the capscrews that hold the wheel cylinder to the back plate and remove the wheel cylinder.

13. See Figure 5-4. Remove the push rods, dust covers, pistons, cups, and spring from the wheel cylinder.

Figure 5-3. Parts Of The Service Brake Legend for Figure 5-3.

1. ANCHOR 2. WHEEL CYLINDER 3. PARKING BRAKE LINK 4. SPRING 5. BRAKE SHOE 6. ANCHOR GUIDE 7. RETURN SPRING 8. ACTUATOR LEVER 9. LINK 10. RETAINER SPRING ASSEMBLY 11. ACTUATOR SPRING 12. PARKING BRAKE CABLE 13. ADJUSTER WHEEL ACTUATOR 14. ADJUSTERWHEEL 15. RETAINER 16. ADJUSTER SPRING 17. PARKING BRAKE LEVER 18. PLUG 19. PIVOT PIN

Sheet 11: Brake System

Figure 5-4. Wheel Cylinder Legend for Figure 5-4.

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PUSH ROD (2) DUSTCOVER(2) PISTON (2) CUP (2) SPRING BODY WHEEL CYLINDER INLET PORT SPECIAL FITTING DUST COVER

Cleaning WARNING DO NOT use an oil solvent to clean the master cylinder, wheel cylinder, or the brake linings. Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts. Do not permit oil or grease in the brake fluid or on the brake linings.

Oil and grease will cause damage and leaks in the seals of a brake system. The brakes will not operate correctly if oil, grease, or brake fluid is on the brake linings.

Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the safety instructions of the solvent manufacturer.

1. Do not release brake lining dust from the brake linings into the air when the brake drum is removed.

2. Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts to wet the brake lining dust. Follow the instructions and cautions of the manufacturer for the use of the solvent. If a solvent spray is used, do not make brake lining dust with the spray.

3. When the brake lining dust is wet, clean the parts. Put any rags or towels in a plastic bag or an airtight container while they are still wet. Put a "DANGEROUS FIBERS' warning label on the plastic bag or airtight container.

4. Any cleaning rags that will be washed must be cleaned so that fibres are not released into the air.

CAUTION Do not permit oil or grease on the brake linings. Use a brake cleaning fluid as necessary to clean linings that will be used again.

Sheet 11: Brake System Inspection 1. Inspect the bore of the wheel cylinder for holes or scratches. Install a new wheel cylinder assembly if there for any damage.

2. Inspect the return springs for wear or damage. Inspect the back plate for wear where the brake shoes touch the back plate. If the back plate is worn or damaged, remove any grooves or install a new back plate.

3. Inspect the brake shoes for cracks or damage. If the linings or shoes are worn or damaged, install new brake shoes. Maximum wear is to within 1 mm (0.025 in) of contact with the rivets, or the metal shoe on bonded linings. new brake shoes must be installed in complete sets. Inspect the brake drums for cracks or damage. If any parts are worn of damaged, install new parts.

WARNING Install new brake shoes on both wheels if any shoe is damaged. The brake performance on both ends of an axle must be equal or the lift truck can be difficult to steer when the brakes are applied.

NOTE: If grooves must be removed from the brake drums, do not grind more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in) from the inside diameter of the brake drum. The maximum limit of the inside diameter of the brake drum is 255.5 mm (9.96 in). If the inside diameter is larger than the limit, install a new brake drum.

4. Inspect the brake drum for deep grooves or other damage.

5. The teeth of the adjuster wheel must not be worn. The adjuster wheel must turn freely. Check the adjuster links for damage.

6. Make sure the parking brake cables are in good condition.

7. Check the grease seals and the surfaces for the seals for wear or damage.

Assembly And Installation NOTE: The back plate is not normally removed from the axle housing for brake repairs. The back plate is fastened to the axle mount with six special nuts. The locking function of the nuts is decreased if they are removed. These nuts are tightened to 102 Nm (75 lbf ft).

1. If the wheel cylinder was disassembled for repair, assemble the wheel cylinder. See Figure 5-4. Use only YALE APPROVED parts.

2. Install the wheel cylinder on the back plate. Connect the brake line to the wheel cylinder.

3. See Figure 5-3. Install the parking brake lever (17). Use the pivot pin and retainer (19 and 15) to fasten the parking brake lever to the brake shoe (5). Close the ends of the retainer to fasten the pivot pin in position.

Lubricate the backing plate with a small amount of grease where the brake shoe touches the back plate. Engage the parking brake cable (12) in the slot in the parking brake lever as the brake shoes are installed on the back plate. Mount the brake shoe assembly to the backing plate using the retainer spring assemblies (10). Put an anchor pin that holds the brake shoes through the back plate. Put a spring seat, spring and retainer (10) onto the anchor pin. Push the retainer onto the anchor pin and rotate the retainer 90 degrees. Make sure the retainer is in the correct position. Install another retainer spring assembly. Make sure that the brake shoe engages the push rod.

4. Attach the actuator (11) for the adjuster wheel to the actuator lever (8). Lubricate the backing plate with a small amount of grease where the brake shoe touches the backing plate. Mount the brake shoe and actuator assembly to the backing plate using the retainer spring assemblies (10). Put an anchor pin that holds the brake shoes through the back plate. Put a spring seat, spring and retainer (10) onto the anchor pin. Push the retainer on to the anchor pin and rotate the retainer 90 degrees. Make sure the retainer is in the correct position. Install another retainer spring assembly. Make sure that the brake shoe engages the push rod.

5. Fasten the adjuster actuator spring (16) to the adjuster wheel actuator (13) and the brake shoe (5).

6. Put an anti-seize compound on the threads of the adjuster wheel. Turn the adjuster wheel into the adjuster nut so that the adjuster assembly is in its shortest position. This action permits the brake drum to be easily installed over the brake shoes.

7. Install the adjuster wheel (14) between the two brake shoes. Make sure the adjuster wheel will be toward the

Sheet 11: Brake System rear of the lift truck. Separate the brake shoes so that the adjuster wheel is held in position and the adjuster actuator spring is in tension.

WARNING The threads of the adjuster wheel are not the same for each side. If the adjuster assemblies are installed on the wrong side, the brake shoe clearance will increase when the brakes are applied. The adjuster wheel for the right brake has left-hand threads. The adjuster wheel for the left brake has right-hand threads.

8. Install the link (3), and the spring (4) between the parking brake lever (17) and the brake shoe (5).

9. Install the other spring retainers (10) that hold the brake shoes. Make sure the parking brake link (3) and the spring (4) are correctly engaged after the spring retainers are installed.

10. Install the anchor guide (6) on the anchor (1). Install the the link (9) onto the anchor (1) and the actuator lever (8).

11. Install the actuator spring (11).

12. Use the correct tools to install the return springs (7). The shape of the return springs permits them to be installed correctly in only one position.

13. Make sure the bottom edge of the adjuster wheel actuator is just above the center of the teeth of the adjuster wheel. Check for correct installation if the alignment is not correct.

14. Clean the bearings and lubricate them with wheel bearing grease. Install the bearings and seals in the brake drum. Install the assembly on the axle housing. See Figure 5-5.

NOTE: To prevent damage to the inner oil seal when installing the hub, the hub and drum assembly can be temporarily fastened to the wheel. Align the height of the axle housing with hub bearings. Put grease under the wheel and slide the wheel toward the axle housing. Install the outer bearing and nut.

15. Install the outer bearing cone on the axle housing. Install the washer and lockplate. Install the adjustment nut.

Rotate the hub/brake drum and tighten the adjustment nut until the hub/brake drum will not rotate. Loosen the adjustment nut 300 to 600 of rotation. Tighten the adjustment nut to 3.6 Nm (32 lbf in). Bend the tabs of the lockplate over the adjustment nut.

CAUTION If there is too much clearance, the automatic adjusters will not operate. If the clearance is too small, the automatic adjuster cannot turn the adjuster wheel to increase the clearance. The adjuster wheel will not turn until the brake shoes wear. If the adjuster wheel does not move for a long operating period, the adjuster link can wear a spot on the adjuster wheel so that it will not turn correctly.

NOTE: If new brake shoes were not installed, loosen the adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth.

16. Adjust the clearance of the brake shoes. Put a brake adjuster or a screwdriver through the slot in the back plate.

Use the tool to rotate the adjuster wheel. The actuator for the adjuster wheel will only permit rotation in one direction. Turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes have expanded against the brake drum and the hub will not turn. Use a small screwdriver to lift the actuator away from the adjuster wheel. Turn the adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth in the opposite direction. The brakes will adjust to the correct clearance when they are applied while the lift truck is travelling in the REVERSE direction.

Sheet 11: Brake System

Figure 5-5. Location of Grease Seals Legend for Figure 5-5.

1. OUTER SEAL 2. HUB/BRAKE DRUM 3. INNER SEAL 1. Put liquid sealant on the flange of the axle shaft. Install the axle shaft and capscrews. Tighten the capscrews to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).

Adjustments 1. Remove the air from the brake system. See the procedure "Remove The Air From The Brake System' in the CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS section.

2. Install the wheel on the hub. Tighten the capscrews to 129 Nm (95 lbf ft).

3. Start the engine and tilt the mast backward to remove the blocks. Push on the brake pedal. The pedal must not touch the floor plate. Move the lift truck in REVERSE and push on the brake pedal to permit adjuster mechanism to operate. Repeat this operation several times.

4. The service brakes must be adjusted before the parking brake can be adjusted. See Figure 5-7. and adjust the parking brake.

MASTER CYLINDER Removal (See Figure 5-6.)

1. Remove the floor plates from the lift truck for access to the master cylinder.

2. Loosen and remove the brake hydraulic line from the master cylinder. Disconnect the remote reservoir hose from the master cylinder. Plug the hose to prevent the reservoir from draining.

3. Remove the lock pin and pin from the rod end that is attached to the push rod.

4. Remove the capscrews, washers, and nuts that hold the master cylinder to the bracket assembly. Remove the master cylinder from the lift truck.

Sheet 11: Brake System

Figure 5-6. Master Cylinder Legend for Figure 5-6.

1. ROD END 2. NUT 3. PUSH ROD 4. BOOT 5. SNAP RING 6. CYLINDER HOUSING 7. SEAL 8. FITTING 9. PISTON SEAL 10. PISTON 11. SPACER 12. PISTON CUP 13. RETAINER 14. SPRING 15. CHECKVALVE 16. VALVE SEAT Disassembly CAUTION Keep control of the piston as it is removed so that the return spring does not suddenly release the piston

Sheet 11: Brake System from the bore with enough force to cause an injury.

CAUTION When the piston is removed or installed, make sure the cylinder bore or piston does not have scratches or damage.

1. Remove the dust boot and push rod. Put the bottom of the master cylinder into a container. Push on the piston to remove the brake fluid.

2. Put the master cylinder into a vise with soft jaws (clamp on the mounting flange only). Push on the piston to release the tension on the snap ring. Remove the snap ring, washer, and piston.

3. Remove all of the seals from the piston.

4. Remove the spring, check valve, and valve seat.

Cleaning And Inspection CAUTION DO NOT use an oil solvent to clean the master cylinder, wheel cylinder, or the brake linings. Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts. Do not permit oil or grease in the brake fluid or on the linings.

Inspect the bore of the master cylinder for holes or scratches. Install a new master cylinder assembly if there is damage.

Assembly (See Figure 5-6.)

1. Lubricate the parts with new brake fluid. Use Yale approved parts only.

2. Install the piston seal (7) on to the piston.

3. Install the spacer (11), piston cup (12), and retainer (13) onto the piston. The lip of the piston cup must face the spring.

4. Install a new check valve (15) and seat (16) into the cylinder bore. Install the spring and piston assembly into the bore. Use a screwdriver to push on the piston assembly until the snap ring groove is visible. Install the snap ring.

5. Install the boot and push rod.

Installation (See Figure 5-6.)

Use the reverse order of Removal to install the master cylinder. Remove the air from the brake system and check the adjustment of the brake pedal as described in the CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS section.

PARKING BRAKE Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 5-7.)

If the lever assembly for the parking brake must be removed from the cowl, do the following and see Figure 5-7.

1. Use blocks next to the wheels to make sure the lift truck can not move. Release the parking brake lever.

2. Remove the two capscrews that fasten the parking brake assembly to the mount bracket.

3. Turn the knob until the brake cables are loosened.

4. Loosen the adjustment screws on the cable bracket. Disconnect the cables from the link.

5. The service brake assembly must be removed before the parking brake cable can be removed from the back plate. A snap ring holds the outer cover of the parking brake cable in the back plate of the service brake.

Remove the snap ring and remove the parking brake cable from the back plate.

Sheet 11: Brake System Assembly And Installation (See Figure 5-7.)

The parking brake cables must be installed in the back plate before the service brake is installed. A snap ring holds the outer cover of the parking brake cable in the back plate of the service brake. Install the parking brake cable in the back plate. Install the snap ring that holds the outer cover of the parking brake cable in the back plate.

If the lever assembly for the parking brake was removed from the cowl, do the following procedure for installation.

1. Make sure the parking brake lever is in the released position. Turn the knob (3) counterclockwise until the link (9) is adjusted to the bottom of the adjustment slot (8).

2. Adjust the nuts (13) on the ends of the cable assemblies (6) to the center of the threads.

3. Use the adjustment screws (12) to set the cable bracket to4mm (0.16 in), dimension "H' in Figure 5-7.

4. Install the cables onto the yoke (10) and cable bracket (11).

5. Rotate the knob clockwise three turns to pull up the yoke. Check that the lever stays in the applied' position.

6. Use the adjustment screws (12) to adjust the cable length by setting the cable bracket to 7 to 8 mm (0.28 to 0.31in), dimension "H' in Figure 5-7. Tighten the locknuts for the adjustment screws.

7. Rotate the knob clockwise to get the correct brake force. See "Adjust The Parking Brake in the CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS section.

Figure 5-7. Lever Adjustment Of Parking Brake Legend for Figure 5-7.

1. BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR 2. PARKING BRAKE LEVER

Sheet 11: Brake System 3. ADJUSTMENT KNOB 4. INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL 5. MASTER CYLINDER 6. PARKING BRAKE CABLES 7. BRAKEASSEMBLY 8. ADJUSTMENT SLOT 9. LINK 10. YOKE 11. CABLE BRACKET 12. ADJUSTMENT SCREW 13. CABLE NUT CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS Adjust The Parking Brake (See Figure 5-7.)

Make sure that the service brakes are adjusted and the operation of the automatic adjuster mechanism is correct before the parking brake is adjusted.

1. Turn the knob (3) clockwise to raise the link (9) and tighten the parking brake cables. Turn the knob until the parking brakes are fully applied when the lever (2) is used to apply the parking brake.

2. Test the operation of the parking brake. The lift truck with a capacity load must not move when the parking brake is applied on a 15% grade. (A 15% grade is slope that increases 1.5 meters vertically per 10 meters of horizontal distance.)

3. Check the operation of the switches on the parking brake.

Test The "Parking Brake Not Applied" Switch The "Parking Brake Not Applied' switch is found in the operator seat. This switch actuates a buzzer on the instrument cluster. When the operator leaves the seat for more than one second without applying the parking brake, the buzzer will be on continuously for 6 seconds. The buzzer operates if the key switch is ON or OFF. Adjust The Service Brakes The following procedure is for newly installed brake shoes. If the lift truck has been operated for more than 25 hours and has correct pedal height, the brakes normally will not need adjustment.

1. See the procedure "How To Put A Lift Truck On Blocks' in the MAINTENANCE section or the OPERATING MANUAL. Put the lift truck on blocks so that the drive wheels can be removed. Remove the drive wheels.

2. Use an adjuster tool to rotate the adjuster wheel so that the teeth of the wheel move down. This adjustment expands the brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes so that the brake drum will not rotate.

3. Push the automatic adjuster lever away from the adjuster wheel with a small screwdriver. Use the adjuster tool to loosen the adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth (new brake shoes).

NOTE: If new brake shoes were not installed, loosen the adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth.

4. Install the drive wheels. Remove the lift truck from the blocks. Operate the lift truck in the FORWARD and REVERSE directions. Stop the lift truck 10 times in each direction. This procedure causes the brake shoes to wear a small amount and fit the brake drum better.

Remove The Air From The Brake System Adjust the service brakes before the air is removed from the brake system.

1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.

2. Put one end of a rubber hose on the special fitting of the wheel cylinder. Put the other end of the hose into a clear container of brake fluid.

3. Loosen the special fitting at the wheel cylinder one turn so that the air can be removed from the brake system.

Sheet 11: Brake System Slowly push the brake pedal and hold it at the end of its stroke. Close the special fitting.

4. Repeat the procedure in Steps 1 through 3 until there are no air bubbles in the container.

5. Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir for the master cylinder during the procedure. Make sure to keep the brake fluid at the correct level.

6. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel cylinder. If air remains in the system, the air must be removed from the master cylinder. Push on the brake pedal with a smooth stroke. Release the pedal slowly. Repeat this procedure until no air bubbles enter the reservoir.

Adjust The Inching/Brake Pedal (See Figure 5-8.)

The following adjustment procedure gives a small amount of transmission "inching' as the brakes are applied (called as inching/brake "overlap'). This overlap makes the "inching' function smooth on small grades. As the inching/brake pedal is pushed in, inching/brake overlap occurs. The brakes start to apply and the transmission clutch packs begin to disengage.

1. Check and adjust the inching/brake pedal if the control valve was removed for repairs.

2. If the lift truck has been operated for more than 25 hours since the brake shoes were installed, and the operation of the brakes is normal, go to Step 5.

3. If the lift truck has new brake shoes, adjust the brake shoes as described in Step 4.

4. Do the following procedure to adjust the brake shoes: a. Put the lift truck on blocks so that the drive wheels can be removed. Remove the drive wheels. Put blocks at each side of the steer tires to prevent forward or backward movement of the lift truck. b. Use an adjuster tool (or a screwdriver) to rotate the adjuster wheel so that the teeth of the wheel move down. This adjustment moves the brake shoes. Move the brake shoes so that the brake drum will not rotate. c.

Push the automatic adjuster lever away from the adjuster wheel with small screwdriver. Use the adjuster tool to loosen the adjuster wheel approximately 10 teeth.

d. Install the drive wheels. Remove the lift truck from the blocks. Operate the lift truck in the FORWARD and REVERSE directions. Stop the lift truck 10 times in each direction. This procedure causes the brake shoes to wear a small amount and fit the brake drums better.

1. Do the following procedure to adjust the "inching' op-eration: a. Adjust the set length (dimension "E'~) of the push rod (8) to 5 mm (0.20 in). b. Adjust the free play of the brake cylinder push rod (8) to 0.5 to 1.0 mm (0.02 to 0.04 in), (dimension "D'), by turning the adjusting capscrew (7) until the push rod touches the piston of the master cylinder. Then loosen the adjusting capscrew 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. c.

Set the pedal height (dimension "M') to 160 to 170 mm by adjusting capscrew (9).

d. Install the inching cable (12) and adjust the cable to remove any free play in the cable. After the cable is installed, there must not be any free play in the lever (10) when the brake pedal is applied. e. The brake/inching overlap is a combination of dimensions"F' and "O'~. Dimension"F' is the stroke of the inching/brake pedal from the pedal set height (dimension "M'~) to the pedal height when the bellcrank (10) begins to move. The correct dimension for "F' is S to 7 mm (0.20 to 0.28 in). Dimension "0' is the stroke of the inching/brake pedal until the push rod (8) begins to move. The correct dimension for "0' is 24 to 29 mm (0.95 to 1.14 in). Turn the adjusting capscrew (3) until it touches the crank. then loosen the adjusting capscrew 3.5 to 4.5 turns to set the correct overlap.

Sheet 11: Brake System

Figure 5-8. Inching/Brake Pedal Adjustment Legend for Figure 5-8.

1. INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL 2. RETURN SPRING 3. ADJUSTMENT CAPSCREW, OVERLAP 4. FLUID RESERVOIR 5. MASTER CYLINDER 6. CRANK 7. ADJUSTMENT CAPSCREW, PUSH ROD CLEARANCE 8. PUSH ROD 9. ADJUSTMENT CAPSCREW, PEDAL HEIGHT 10. BELLCRANK 11. INCHING SPOOL

Sheet 11: Brake System 12. CABLE TROUBLESHOOTING TROUBLE The brakes do not stop the lift truck correctly.

POSSIBLE CAUSE Air in the brake system.

The mount for the master cylinder is loose.

The brake shoes are worn or damaged.

The linings are too hard.

A brake drum is cracked.

A back plate is damaged.

A wheel cylinder is leaking or does not operate correctly.

The brake linings do not fit the brake drums.

The master cylinder is damaged.

One brake does not release.

Water or oil is on the brake linings.

A brake shoe is damaged.

A return spring is wrong.

The brake lines have a restriction.

A parking brake cable is damaged or needs adjustment.

The wheel cylinder is damaged.

The brakes make too much noise.

The brakes do not operate equally.

The back plate is worn or damaged.

Dirt, oil, water, or brake fluid is on the linings.

The brake linings are worn.

The brake drum is damaged.

A brake shoe is worn or damaged.

Oil or brake fluid is on the linings.

The lining is worn or hard.

A wheel cylinder is leaking.

The brake linings are not correctly installed.

The back plate or brake shoes are damaged.

The brake drums are not round.

The shoes are adjusted too tight.

Both brakes do not release.

The parking brake is not released.

The parking brake cables need adjustment.

There is not enough clearance at the end of the push rod in the master cylinder.

The master cylinder is damaged.

The brake shoes are adjusted too tight.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION Repair system to prevent air enter mg. Remove air from the system.

Tighten fasteners.

Install new brake shoes.

Install new correct lining.

Install new part.

Install new part.

Repair or install new parts.

Remove air from the system.

Install correct linings. Machine brake drums.

Install new master cylinder.

Remove air from the system.

Clean or install new linings.

Install new parts.

Install new correct spring.

Remove restriction or Install new lines. Remove air from the system.

Adjust cable or install new parts.

Repair or install new parts.

Remove air from the system.

Repair or install new parts.

Clean or install new linings.

Install new linings.

Repair or install new brake drum.

Install new brake shoe(s).

Repair leak. Clean or install new linings.

Install new linings.

Repair or install new parts.

Remove air from the system.

Install brake linings correctly.

Repair or Install new parts.

Check to make sure there is ade quate material to allow for machining. Machine brake drums to make them round or install new drums.

Adjust brakes. Check adjuster link age.

Release parking brake.

Adjust or install new cables Adjust the clearance between the push rod and the piston.

Install new master cylinder.

Remove air from the system.

Check operation of adjuster link age. Adjust brakes.

Sheet 11: Brake System The brake pedal travels too far.

Air in the brake system.

Brake fluid level low. The brake sys tem has a leak.

The brake shoes are not adjusted correctly.

The brake linings are worn.

One of the dual brake circuits is not operating.

There is too much clearance at the end of the push rod in the master cylinder.

The master cylinder is worn or damaged.

The parking brake will not hold the lift truck.

Parking brake is not adjusted correctly.

The parking brake will not release.

Oil, water, or brake fluid is on the linings.

The parking brake cables need adjustment, lubrication, or have damage.

The parking brake lever is adjusted too tight.

The parking brake cables need adjustment, lubrication, or have dam age.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ITEM Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews Axle Shaft Capscrews Wheel Stud Assembly Nuts

SPECIFICATION 102 Nm (75 lbf ft) 66 Nm (49 lbf ft) 127 Nm (94 lbf ft)

Remove air from the system.

Check for leaks.

Fill brake fluid reservoir to the correct level. Repair leak.

Remove air from the system.

Check operation of adjuster link age. Adjust brakes.

Install new linings.

Repair or install new parts.

Adjust the clearance between the push rod and the piston.

Repair or install new master cylinder. Remove air from the system.

Use adjustment knob on parking brake lever to adjust holding force. See adjustment procedure for correct specifications.

Clean or install new linings.

Install new parts. Lubricate and adjust cables.

Adjust parking brake. See adjustment procedure for correct specifications.

Install new parts. Lubricate and adjust cables.

Sheet 12: Power Steering POWER STEERING This section has the description and repair procedures for the steering housing and the steering control unit.

Additional information on parts of the steering system are in the following sections: SECTION 7, STEERING AXLE and SECTION 8, HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. DESCRIPTION (See Figure 6-2.)

The steering housing has the mounts for the steering column and the steering control unit. The steering wheel is installed on the steering column. The housing is adjustable and is held in position by a latch. The position of the housing can be changed for different operator requirements. The steering housing is also the mount for the control levers and the instrument cluster.

The steering system is a hydraulic system that does not have a mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the steering axle. The control of the steering is through a hydraulic circuit.

If the main hydraulic pump does not operate, a check ball permits the steering control unit to control the steering system. The lift truck is difficult to steer when the hydraulic pump is not operating, but the steering control unit can operate the steering cylinder and make steering possible.

OPERATION The steering control unit is a rotary valve that is operated by the steering wheel. During the steering operation, the steering control unit controls the direction of flow and amount of oil that flows to the steering axle. The steering cylinder actuates the steering linkage to move the steering tires. Hydraulic oil returns from the steering cylinder to the steering control unit and then returns to the hydraulic tank.

Turning the steering wheel actuates three main parts of the steering control unit: (1) The spool for the control section, (2) the sleeve for the control section and (3) the rotor in the metering section. When the steering wheel is not moving, the spool and sleeve are held in the neutral (center) position by springs. During this time, oil flows freely through the steering control unit. The oil does not flow to the steering cylinder.

As the steering wheel is turned, the spool just begins to rotate. The springs try to move the sleeve to keep the neutral position between the spool and sleeve. However, the force necessary to turn the rotor is greater than the pressure of the springs. The springs begin to bend, letting the spool move a small amount within the sleeve. The spool stops moving when it touches the center pin. In this position, the holes in the sleeve and the spool are aligned.

Oil coming into the control unit flows to the metering section.

More rotation of the steering wheel causes the spool to rotate the pin. This action causes the rotation of the sleeve and the rotor in the metering section. The oil then flows to one side of the steering cylinder. Hydraulic oil from the other side of the steering cylinder returns through the control section of the steering control unit.

When the steering wheel stops moving, the metering action in the metering section also stops. The neutral position springs return the sleeve to the neutral position. When this action occurs, the pressure stays in the steering cylinder to keep the steering tires in position. Oil from the pump flows through the steering control unit to the tank or other parts of the system. To return the steering tires to the straight position, the steering wheel must be rotated in the opposite direction. The steering control unit will operate as described, but all parts will rotate in the opposite direction.

Sheet 12: Power Steering

Figure 6-1. Steering Control Unit

Figure 6-2. Steering Housing Assembly Legend for Figure 6-2.

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BRACKET WELDMENT STEERING COLUMN SUPPORT WASHER NUT(M8X1) BOLT (2)

Sheet 12: Power Steering 6. WASHER (4) 7. NUT (4) 8. CAPSCREW 9. LOCKWASHER (3) 10. SPACER 11. LEVER 12. SPRING 13. CAPSCREW (4) 14. WASHER (8) 15. WASHER 16. WASHER (8) 17. STEERING CONTROL UNIT 18. STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY 19. WASHER 20. SCREW 21. WIREASSEMBLY 22. COVER 23. COVER 24. STEERING WHEEL ASSEMBLY 25. HORN BUTTON 26. COVER 27. BOOT 28. SCREW (5) 29. NUT 30. SPECIAL BOLT (4) 31. WASHER

Figure 6-3. Steering Control Unit Legend for Figure 6-3.

1. HOUSING 2. SLEEVE 3. SPOOL

Sheet 12: Power Steering 4. SNAP RING 5. CENTER SPRINGS (4) 6. FLAT SPRINGS (2) 7. PIN 8. RETAINING RING 9. THRUST BEARING 10. BEARING RACE 11. OILSEAL 12. DUST SEAL 13. PLUG PIN BALL 14. CENTER SHAFT 15. 0-RING (3) 16. COVER 17. PORT PLATE 18. STATOR 19. SPACER 20. PLATE 21. 0-RING 22. CAPSCREW STEERING HOUSING Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 6-2.)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery. Remove the rear cover for the steering housing. Remove the instrument cluster. Remove the front cover for the housing.

2. Put tags for identification on the hydraulic hoses at the steering control unit so that they can be connected correctly during assembly. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses at the bottom of the steering control unit. Install plugs at all hose ports to prevent dirt from entering the steering hydraulic system.

3. Remove the capscrews that hold the steering column and the control unit to the bracket. Remove the steering column and the steering control unit.

4. Remove the parts from the housing as necessary.

STEERING CONTROL UNIT Removal (See Figure 6-2.)

CAUTION Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the covers.

1. Remove the screws for the housing covers. Remove the back cover.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering control unit. Put caps on the openings.

3. Remove the capscrews that hold the steering column and control unit to the bracket. Remove the steering column and the control unit.

Disassembly (See Figure 6-4.)

NOTE: The following illustrations are used to show the arrangement and function of the internal parts.

Sheet 12: Power Steering

Figure 6-4. Disassembly Of The Steering Control Unit (1 of 2) Legend for Figure 6-4.

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STEERING CONTROL UNIT VISE HOUSING O-RING COVER

Sheet 12: Power Steering

Figure 6-4. Disassembly Of The Steering Control unit (2 of 2) Legend for Figure 6-4.

1. 0-RING 2. CENTER SHAFT 3. PORT PLATE 4. STATOR 5. ROTOR 6. SPOOL AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY 7. RING 8. SLEEVE 9. NEUTRAL POSITION SPRINGS 10. SPOOL 11. PIN 12. THRUST WASHER 13. THRUST BEARING Cleaning Assembly (See Figure 6-5.)

WARNING Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the solvent manufacturer's recommended safety precautions.

WARNING Compressed air can move particles so that they cause injury to the user or to other personnel. Make sure that the path of the compressed air is away from all personnel. Wear protective goggles or a face shield to prevent injury to the eyes.

Clean all the parts in solvent. Dry the parts with compressed air. Do not dry the parts with a cloth. Make sure all surfaces are free of scratches and sharp edges.

Sheet 12: Power Steering Installation (See Figure 6-2.)

Install the steering control unit and column assembly on the bracket. Connect the hydraulic lines at the control unit.

WARNING After making repairs, do not extend the hands or arms through the center of the steering wheel. If the control unit was not assembled correctly or the hoses not connected correctly it can rotate with a strong force and cause serious injury. If this action occurs, disassemble the control unit and correct the problem.

Figure 6-5. Assembly Of The Steering Control Unit (1 of 3) Legend for Figure 6-5.

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DUST SEAL HOUSING OIL SEAL SLEEVE SPOOL

Sheet 12: Power Steering

Figure 6-5. Assembly Of The Steering Control Unit (2 of 3) Legend for Figure 6-5.

1. NEUTRAL POSITION SPRINGS (FLAT) 2. NEUTRAL POSITION SPRINGS (CURVED) 3. CENTER PIN 4. SPOOL 5. RING 6. SNAP RING 7. HOUSING 8. SPOOL AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY 9. THRUST WASHER 10. THRUST BEARING 11. SPOOL 12. SLEEVE 13. PIN 14. 0-RING 15. PORT PLATE 16. PLUG

Sheet 12: Power Steering

Figure 6-5. Assembly Of The Steering Control Unit (3 of 3) Legend for Figure 6-5.

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CENTER SHAFT CENTER PIN ROTOR STATOR 0-RING

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS Remove Air From The System Air can enter the system when a hydraulic line is disconnected. If the operation is rough, start the engine and rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop several times in each direction. The air will be removed without disconnecting any lines. If the operation is still rough, check if air is entering the system at a loose fitting.

TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEM The steering wheels do not move when the steering wheel is turned.

POSSIBLE CAUSE The oil level is low or there is no oil in the tank.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION Fill tank to the correct level.

Check for leaks.

The steering control unit is damaged No oil flow from the steering control unit to the steering cylinder.

The sleeve and spool in the control unit will not move.

Repair or install new control unit.

Repair or install new components.

Install new components.

Sheet 12: Power Steering Hydraulic hoses not connected or have damage.

Slow or difficult steering.

Steering wheel turns the tires in the wrong direction.

Steering function continues after the steering wheel stops.

The steering operation is not smooth.

The O-rings or seals have damage.

Relief valve for the steering system is not adjusted correctly.

Low oil pressure from the hydraulic pump.

Seal in the steering cylinder has a leak.

Hydraulic lines are have restrictions.

Steering control unit is worn, not assembled correctly or has damage.

The hydraulic lines are not connected correctly at the steering cylinder or at the steering control unit.

The steering control unit is assembled wrong or has damage.

The oil level in the tank is low.

Air was not removed after repair to the hydraulic system.

The steering control unit is assembled wrong or has damage.

The hydraulic pump has a leak at the inlet.

Check for leaks. Tighten connections. Install new components as necessary.

Install new parts.

Adjust or install new relief valve.

Check for restrictions. Check the pump.

Repair cylinder. Install new seal or new cylinder.

Remove restrictions. Install new hydraulic lines.

Repair or install new control unit.

Connect lines correctly. Remove air from the system.

Repair or install new control unit.

Fill tank. Check for leaks.

Remove air from the system.

Repair or install new control unit.

Fix leaks. Remove air from the system.

Sheet 13: Steering Axle STEERING AXLE This section has the description and repair procedures for the steering axle. See the following sections for additional information on the parts of the steering system: Section 6, POWER STEERING and Section 8, HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. DESCRIPTION The steering axle assembly includes an axle frame, steering cylinder, and two spindle and wheel assemblies. See Figure 7-1. The steering axle is connected to the frame with center pivot mounts. The center pivot mounts on the axle frame are fastened to the lift truck frame with rubber mounts. The steering axle can make an articulated motion and give the lift truck a smoother travel over rough surfaces.

There are two plates welded to the steering cylinder that allow the cylinder to be mounted to the steering axle frame.

The oil is kept inside the cylinder by 0-rings, seals, and wipers in the end caps. The ends of the piston rod extend from both ends of the cylinder. A single piston and the seal are at the center of the rod. Oil pressure on one side of the piston moves the piston in the bore. When the piston moves in the bore, it pushes an equal amount of oil from the opposite end of the cylinder. This oil returns to the steering control unit.

When the piston reaches the end of the stroke, a relief valve controls the oil pressure so that the components are not damaged. Links connect the spindle arms to the cylinder.

Each spindle turns on two needle bearings and one thrust bearing. The spindle and bearings are held in the axle frame by a king pin. A setscrew and locknut assembly holds the king pin in the axle frame.

The wheel rotates on two tapered-roller bearings and is held on the spindle by a castle nut. The castle nut adjusts the preload on the bearings. Grease seals and a hub cap protect the wheel bearings from dirt and water.

Figure 7-1. Steering Axle Legend for Figure 7-1.

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SPINDLE AND HUB ASSEMBLY AXLE FRAME BRACKET RUBBER MOUNT STEERING CYLINDER CAPSCREW, CYLINDER MOUNTING CAPSCREW, AXLE MOUNTING PIN LINK

Sheet 13: Steering Axle STEERING AXLE ASSEMBLY NOTE: The steering axle assembly without the wheels weighs approximately 115 kg (250 lb).

Removal (See Figure 7-1.)

1. Operate the steering system to remove the air from the system. Turn the steering wheel several times from one stop to the other stop. Check for hydraulic leaks.

WHEELS The steering axle can be removed without removing the counterweight.

1. Make sure the wheels are set for straight travel. Put the lift truck onto blocks so that the steering axle can be removed. See "How To Put The Lift Truck On Blocks' in SECTION 2, GENERAL LIFT TRUCK INFORMATION AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE. The top of the axle frame must have clearance under the counterweight so that the steering axle can be removed.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylinder. Install caps onto the cylinder and put plugs into the hydraulic lines. The caps will prevent the spindles from turning when the axle is removed from under the lift truck.

3. Slide a floor jack or the forks of another lift truck under the steering axle. Raise the lifting device until it holds the weight of the axle assembly. Remove the four capscrews that fasten the two brackets under the rubber mounts.

Remove the brackets and slowly lower the axle assembly. Carefully roll the axle assembly from under the lift truck.

Installation (See Figure 7-1.)

1. Install the rubber mounts onto the axle.

2. Install the bottom brackets. Tighten the four bracket capscrews and nuts to 41 to 49 Nm (30 to 36 lbf ft).

3. Remove the plugs and caps and connect the hydraulic lines to the steering cylinder.

Removal and Disassembly (See Figure 7-2.)

WARNING The steer tire and wheel assembly weighs approximately 41 kg (90 lb). Use the following procedure to remove the tire and wheel from the steering axle. Use a lifting device if the tire and wheel must be lifted.

NOTE: The steering axle does not have to be removed from the lift truck to remove the tire and wheel.

1. Apply a coat of grease to the bottom surface of the tire. Put the axle onto blocks so that the side of the tire with grease just touches the floor. Remove the hub cap. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut. Remove the outer bearing cone. Slide the wheel and tire the spindle. Remove the inner bearing cone and the seal from the spindle.

2. If new wheel bearings must be installed, use a brass drift to remove the bearing cups.

3. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel.

Cleaning WARNING Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the solvent manufacturer's safety procedures.

Clean all parts with solvent. Make sure the bearings are clean.

Sheet 13: Steering Axle

Figure 7-2. Steering Axle Legend for Figure 7-2.

1. AXLE FRAME 2. KNUCKLE 3. KING PIN 4. UPPER SLEEVE 5. LOWER SLEEVE 6. BEARING 7. 0-RING 8. GROOVE PIN 9. OIL SEAL 10. COTTER PIN 11. CASTLE NUT 12. GREASE FITTING 13. LINK 14. PIN 15. BUSHING 16. SCREW 17. LOCKNUT 18. GREASE FITTING 19. STEERING CYLINDER 20. SPACER 21. BOLT

Sheet 13: Steering Axle 22. WASHER 23. HUB/WHEEL 24. HUB CAP 25. WASHER 26. BEARING 27. BEARING 28. OIL SEAL 29. FITTING 30. FITTING 31. LOCKNUT 32. RUBBER CUSHION 33. CUSHION COVER 34. WASHER 35. LOCKWASHER 36. BOLT Assembly And Installation (See Figure 7-2.)

WARNING The steer tire and wheel assembly weighs approximately 41 kg (90 lb). Use the following procedure to remove the tire and wheel from the steering axle. Use a lifting device if the tire and wheel must be lifted.

1. If new wheel bearings must be installed, use a press to install the new bearing cups in the wheel. Install the grease seal on the spindle. Lubricate the bearing cones and seal lips with grease. Make sure the bearings are filled with grease. Install the bearing cone onto the spindle.

CAUTION Do not damage the seals during installation.

2. Apply a coat of grease to the bottom surface of the tire. Carefully slide the wheel onto the spindle. Install the outer bearing cone.

3. Install the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to 200 Nm (150 lbf ft) while wheel is rotated. Loosen the nut until the wheel turns freely but is not loose. Tighten the castle nut to obtain a rotating torque of 3 to 5 Nm (27 to 44 lbf in).

Install the cotter pin at the nearest alignment position. Install the hub cap.

4. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel.

SPINDLES AND BEARINGS Removal (See Figure 7-2.)

Put the lift truck onto blocks so that the tires are raised from the floor. Remove the wheel from the steering axle spindle. Remove the pin to disconnect the link from the spindle. Remove the upper and lower king pin caps. Loosen the nut and remove the setscrew that secures the king pin. Use a driver to remove the king pin. Use a driver to remove the bearings and seals from the axle.

Installation (See Figure 7-2.)

1. Use new bearings and seals. Install the needle bearings into the axle. Apply grease to the bearings and king pin as they are installed into the axle. Install the seals in the correct position. Position the spindle in the axle and install the king pin. Align the setscrew with the setscrew hole in the king pin. Tighten the setscrew and locknut.

2. Connect the links. Align the set screws with the set screw holes in the pins. Tighten the setscrews and locknuts.

STEERING CYLINDER Removal And Disassembly (See Figure 7-3.)

1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylinder. Mark the position of the hydraulic lines to make sure of correct assembly. Install caps in the fittings on the cylinders and put caps on the hydraulic lines.

2. Remove the setscrews from the links. Remove the pins.

Sheet 13: Steering Axle 3. Remove the capscrews that fasten the cylinder to the axle frame. Remove the steering cylinder.

4. Hold the end of the steering cylinder over a drain pan. Remove the cap for the hydraulic fitting from each end cap. Push the rod toward the end of the shell that is over the drain pan. Oil will drain from the cylinder. Repeat the procedure for the other end.

5. Carefully remove one guide assembly from the shell. Carefully pull the cylinder rod and piston from the shell.

Keep the cylinder rod aligned in the center of the shell during removal so that the parts are not damaged.

Remove the guide assembly from the rod. Remove the other guide assembly from the shell. Remove all seals, wipers, and 0-rings.

Cleaning and Inspection WARNING Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the solvent manufacturer's safety procedures.

Clean all parts in solvent.

Inspect the piston rod for grooves or damage. Remove small scratches with fine emery cloth. Inspect the cylinder bore for damage. Inspect the mounts for cracks.

Assembly and Installation (See Figure 7-3.)

CAUTION Do not damage the 0-rings, seals, and wipers during installation.

1. Put the seals, wipers, 0-rings, and piston seals into warm hydraulic oil.

2. Lubricate the seals and wipers with 0-ring lubricant and install them into the into the guide assemblies. Lubricate the piston seals and install them onto the piston. Install one guide assembly onto the cylinder rod.

3. Carefully slide the cylinder rod and piston into the shell. Keep the cylinder rod aligned in the center of the shell during installation so that the parts are not damaged. Carefully slide the guide assembly into the shell. Carefully install the other guide assembly onto the rod and shell. Put caps on the hydraulic fittings of the end caps.

4. Install the cylinder onto the axle frame using the capscrews. Tighten the capscrews to 294 to 353 Nm (217 to 261 lbfft).

5. Install the links between the cylinder and the spindles. Install the pins. Align the setscrews with the set screw holes in the pins. Tighten the setscrews and the lock-nuts.

6. Remove the caps and connect the hydraulic lines to the steering cylinder. Operate the steering system to remove the air from the cylinder and the hydraulic system. Turn the steering wheel several times from one stop to the other.

Sheet 13: Steering Axle

Figure 7-3. Steering Cylinder Legend for Figure 7-3.

1. ROD ASSEMBLY 2. GUIDE ASSEMBLY 3. WIPER 4. SEAL 5. 0-RING 6. 0-RING 7. PISTON SEAL 8. SNAP RING 9. BUSHING, ROD 10. BUSHING, PIN TROUBLESHOOTING The steering wheels do not move when the steering wheel is turned.

Slow or difficult steering.

Steering wheel turns the tires in the wrong direction.

Steering function continues after the steering wheel stops.

There is air in the steering system.

The steering control unit is damaged.

Repair or install new control unit.

No oil flow from the steering control unit to the steering cylinder.

Relief valve for the steering system needs adjustment.

Low oil pressure from the hydraulic pump.

Repair or install new components. Check for leaks.

Seal in the steering cylinder has a leak.

Steering control unit is worn or has damage.

The hydraulic lines are not connected correctly at the steering cylinder or at the steering control unit.

The steering control unit was assembled wrong or has damage.

The oil level in the tank is low.

Air was not removed after repair to the hydraulic or steering system.

Adjust or install new relief valve.

Check for restrictions. See Troubleshooting Chart Hydraulic System.'

Install new seal.

Repair or install new control unit.

Connect lines properly. Remove air from the system.

Repair or install new control unit.

Add hydraulic oil as necessary.

Check for leaks.

Remove air from the system

Sheet 13: Steering Axle The hydraulic pump has an air leak at the inlet.

Repair system. Remove air from the system.

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System HYDRAULIC SYSTEM This section has a description of the hydraulic system and the gear pump assembly. Procedures for the repair of the hydraulic pump assembly are also in this section. Repair information for the parts of the steering system are in Section 7, STEERING AXLE and Section 6, POWER STEERING. Information for pump drive assembly is in Section 3, TRANSMISSION. This section also has a description and the repair procedure for the hydraulic control valve. The CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS and TROUBLESHOOTING for the hydraulic pump assembly and the hydraulic system are at the end of this section.

DESCRIPTION Hydraulic System (See Figure 8-1.)

The hydraulic system has the following parts: hydraulic tank, hydraulic pump assembly, steering control unit, hydraulic control valve, lift cylinders, tilt cylinders, steering cylinder, oil filter and breather. The steering system and the lift and tilt system are separate circuits of the hydraulic system. Both circuits use a common hydraulic tank and hydraulic pump. A breather at the top of the tank lets air into the hydraulic tank.

Figure 8-1. Hydraulic System (1 of 2) Legend for Figure 8-1.

1. HYDRAULIC TANK 2. BREATHER 3. RETURN LINE 4. MAIN CONTROL VALVE 5. TILT BACKWARD LINE 6. TILT FORWARD LINE 7. TO LIFT CYLINDERS 8. TILT CYLINDER 9. STEERING CONTROL UNIT 10. HYDRAULIC PUMP 11. FILTER 12. STEERING CYLINDER 13. STEERING SUPPLY LINE

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System

Figure 8-1. Hydraulic System (2 of 2) Legend for Figure 8-1.

1. HYDRAULIC PUMP 2. FLOW DIVIDER SECTION 3. SPOOL SECTIONS (LI FT TILT & AUXILIARY) 4. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (On Mast) 5. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (At Cyl. Port) 6. LIFT CYLINDER 7. TILT CYLINDER 8. STEERING CYLINDER 9. STEERING CONTROL VALVE 10.FILTER 11.PRESSURE CHECK PORT 12.LIFT/LOWER SPOOL 13.TILT SPOOL

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System 14.AUXILIARY SPOOL 15.FLOW CONTROL VALVE 16.RELIEF VALVE (STEERING SYSTEM) 17.MAIN RELIEF VALVE 18.AUXILIARY FUNCTION PORTS

Figure 8-2. Hydraulic Gear Pump Assembly, Single Gear Set Legend for Figure 8-2.

1. COVER 2. BODY 3. BEARING 4. BEARING 5. GEAR 6. GEAR 7. FLANGE 8. OIL SEAL 9. OIL SEAL 10. BACK-UP RING 11. BACK-UP RING 12. BOLT 13. LOCKWASHER 14. OIL SEAL 15. SNAP RING Hydraulic Pump Assembly (See Figure 8-2. and Figure 8-3.)

The hydraulic pump can have either one or two sets of gears. The pump with two sets of gears reduces hydraulic noise. Seals prevent leaks between sections to outside of the pump.

The hydraulic pump is rotated by a shaft that is connected directly to the engine crankshaft.

Steering Flow Divider (See Figure 8-4.)

The flow divider for the steering system is in the inlet cover on the main control valve. The flow control valve makes sure the steering system has a constant supply of oil. The flow control valve has a spring, a plunger with an orifice, and an 0-ring plug. The spring keeps the plunger in the correct position. Oil pressure can move the plunger and compress the spring. The plug keeps the plunger and spring in the bore and also keeps the oil in the correct chamber.

Relief Valve (See Figure 8-4.)

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System The relief valve for the steering system is in the inlet cover on the main control valve. The relief valve prevents the oil pressure in the steering system from increasing above specifications. The relief valve has the following parts: a valve seat, a poppet, a spring, an adjuster, a lock nut, two gaskets, and a cap. The position of the adjuster and the amount of compression of the spring determine the relief pressure. When the adjustment is correct, the lock nut will hold the adjuster in the correct location, the cap will protect the adjusting nut, and the gaskets will seal the lock nut against the end cover and the cap against the lock nut.

OPERATION Hydraulic System (See Figure 8-1.)

The gear pump sends oil flow to the steering system and the lift and tilt system. The gear pump receives oil from the hydraulic tank through a screen at the outlet of the tank. The oil from the pump flows directly to the flow divider. The flow divider supplies a constant supply of oil to the steering system. This quantity of oil flow is controlled by the steering control unit to operate the steering cylinder. The relief valve in the inlet cover limits the pressure in the steering system.

The secondary flow from the pump goes to the main control valve. This valve controls the flow of oil to the lift, tilt, and any auxiliary functions. A relief valve in the end cover limits the pressure in the hydraulic system. In some configurations, the auxiliary functions can be controlled by separate relief valves. Test ports permit checking the relief pressures of each system. The location of the test ports is shown in Figure 8-1. The oil returning from the main control valve flows through a filter in the return line to the hydraulic tank.

Figure 8-3. Operation of the Flow Control Valve and Relief Valve Legend for Figure 8-3.

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PLUG FLOW CONTROL SPOOL RELIEF ADJUSTMENT CAP LOCKNUT POPPET PLUNGER SUPPLY FLOW RETURN FLOW

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System 10. STEERING SUPPLY 11. MAIN HYDRAULIC SUPPLY 12. RELIEF FLOW Hydraulic Pump (See Figure 8-2. and Figure 8-3.)

The two gears in the pump have their teeth engaged in the center of the pump body. The gears have close tolerances between themselves and the pump body. When the input shaft is turned, the drive gear turns the driven gear. The tolerances and seals make tight chambers between the gear teeth.

When the teeth of each gear move apart at the inlet port, they make a vacuum. Oil from the tank enters the inlet port and is moved by the gear chambers around the circumference. Passages opposite the inlet connect the gear chambers for outlet oil flow to the flow control valve. Oil at the inlet flows through bores and passages in the bushings to both sides of each bushing. Oil lubricates the bushings and the gear surface of each bushing. Other bores and passages in the bushings let the outlet oil go to the sides of the bushings away from the gears. The passages also let this outlet oil flow to the side of the inlet circumference of each bushing. The pressure on each bushing is kept equal by the passages and the oil.

Steering Flow Divider (See Figure 8-4.)

The oil from the pump enters the valve chamber near the center of the plunger. The oil flows through the orifice in the plunger to the steering system port. This oil also flows to the relief valve. If the oil flow at the pump outlet is more than the primary flow for the steering system, the plunger will move. This plunger movement connects part of the oil flow to the lift and tilt system port. The plunger will also move back and decrease or stop the flow of oil to the lift and tilt system if the pump flow decreases. The plunger keeps moving to make sure the steering system always has a constant supply of oil.

Relief Valve (See Figure 8-4.)

The pressure in the steering system is sensed at the relief valve. If the pressure increases to the relief valve setting, the poppet in the relief valve will move against the spring. When the poppet moves off the seat, oil flows through an internal passage that directs the oil flow to the oil tank to decrease the pressure. The decrease in pressure lets the spring return the poppet back to the seat.

REPAIR, HYDRAULIC PUMP ASSEMBLY NOTE: Worn or damaged seals are the most common cause of pump damage. The pump bushings, gears, and shafts also wear. They must be checked during disassembly. Do not make any repairs to the parts. To prevent more failures, always replace parts that are worn or damaged. If several main parts are worn, install the complete group.

The pressure in the steering system is sensed at the relief valve . If the pressure increases to the relief valve setting, the poppet in the relief valve will move against the spring. When the poppet moves off the seat, oil flows through an internal passage that directs the oil flow to the oil tank to decrease the pressure. The decrease in pressure lets the spring return the poppet back to the seat.

Removal and Disassembly (See Figure 8-2. and Figure 8-3.)

1. Remove the counterweight. See Section 11, Frame for the correct procedures.

2. Put a drain pan under the pump assembly. Disconnect the suction line and pressure hose at the pump. Plug the suction line and the pressure hose.

3. Hold the pump assembly to keep it from falling. Remove the two capscrews, nuts, and washers that fasten the pump to the mount bracket. Remove the pump assembly.

4. Put the pump body into a vise. Do not damage the inlet port. Put alignment marks on the three sections of the pump.

5. Remove the capscrews that hold the pump together. Remove the end cover. Remove the body assembly. Do not let the seals and gears fall.

6. Make a note of the position of the seals. Carefully remove the oil seals, pressure plates, bushings, and gears

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System from the housings. Remove the snap ring and shaft seal from the flange end housing.

7. Check the parts for wear and damage.

Assembly and Installation (See Figure 8-2. and Figure 8-3.)

1. Put clean hydraulic oil on all parts of the pump and valves. Use the hydraulic oil shown in SECTION 2, GENERAL LIFT TRUCK INFORMATION AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE. Make sure to keep the parts clean.

2. Use new seals and install the bushings and gears into the flange end housing. See the notes made during disassembly. Make sure all seals are complete and in the correct positions.

Figure 8-4. Hydraulic Pump Coupling Legend for Figure 8-5.

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SHAFT ASSEMBLY CAPSCREW WASHER BOOT STRAP CLAMP

1. Install a new oil seal in the flange end housing. Install the body assembly. Make sure the seals do not move out of the correct position.

2. Install new seals in the end cover end of the pump. Carefully install the end cover on the pump body using the four capscrews and lock washers. Make sure the seals stay in the correct position. Make sure the marks made during disassembly are aligned. Tighten the capscrews.

3. Engage the pump coupler with the splines on the pump. Hold the pump in the correct position on the mount bracket. Install the capscrews, nuts, and washers that fasten the pump to the mounting bracket.

4. Connect the hydraulic lines. Do not tighten the inlet fitting. Fill the tank using the hydraulic oil shown in SECTION 2, GENERAL LIFT TRUCK INFORMATION AND LUBRICATION SCHEDULE. Allow some of the oil to leak from the pump inlet fitting. Tighten the fittings. This procedure will make sure the pump has oil for first operation.

5. Install the counterweight. See SECTION 11, FRAME. HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVE

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System This section has a description and repair procedure for the hydraulic control valve.

Description The hydraulic control valve controls the operation of the lift, tilt, and auxiliary cylinders. The hydraulic control valve is installed to the right of the operator's seat. It is fastened to a bracket on the frame of the lift truck. The hydraulic control valve has the following sections (See Figure 8-6.): •

inlet section with the primary and steering relief valves

•

lift and lower section

•

tilt section

•

auxiliary section(s)

The sections are held together with three through bolts.

Each function of the hydraulic control valve is made as a separate section having a spool and valve body. The control spools are different for each function. Other sections are added to the hydraulic control valve to control optional auxiliary functions.

Each spool has a spring that returns the spool to the neutral position when the control lever is released. Each valve section has a check valve in the valve body. The check valve and spring are held in the valve body by a threaded plug.

Figure 8-5 Schematic, Hydraulic Control Valve Legend for Figure 8-5 1. TO/FROM AUXILIARY CYLINDERS 2. TO/FROM TILT CYLINDERS 3. TO/FROM LIFT CYLINDERS 4. RELIEF VALVE (LIFT CIRCUIT) 5. MAIN CONRTOL VALVE 6. TO HYDRAULIC TANK 7. TO STEERING SYSTEM 8. FROM HYDRALUIC PUMP 9. RELIEF VALVE (STEERING CIRCUIT) 10. CHECK PORT (LIFT AND TILT CIRCUITS) 11. LIFT/ LOWER SPOOL 12. TILT SPOOL 13. AUXILIARY FUNCTION SPOOL Operation

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System The hydraulic control valve is an open center, parallel circuit valve. When open center valve spools are in the neutral position, the hydraulic oil flows through the valve with minimum restriction. The oil returns through the drain passage and returns to the hydraulic tank. In a parallel circuit valve, each spool can be operated without preventing the flow of oil to another spool.

This valve has three parallel passages through the valve. See Figure 8-7. When the spools are in the neutral position, the oil flows through the open center passage. At the end of the valve, the oil returns through the drain passage and returns to the hydraulic tank. A spool makes a restriction in the open center passage when the spool is moved from the neutral position. This restriction causes an increase in pressure in the parallel passage. The parallel passage is common to all sections of the valve, but oil cannot flow freely through it. The increased pressure in the parallel passage causes the oil to flow through a check valve into a supply cavity in the valve body. The spool gives a path from the supply cavity to the hydraulic cylinder to do work.

The hydraulic control valve has three control levers. The first lever to the right of the operator controls the lifting and lowering of the mast. The second lever controls the tilt function. The third control lever is for attachments and has three methods of operation which depend on the attachment and control valve.

Figure 8-6. Hydraulic Control Valve Legend for Figure 8-6.

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INLET SECTION LIFT SECTION LIFT/LOWER SPOOL TILT SECTION TILT CONTROL SPOOL TILT SPOOL AUXILIARY SECTION AUXILIARY SPOOL END SECTION

Control Lever Without a Detent -Attachments Without a Clamp Action: The lever is operated by moving

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System forward or backward.

•

Control Lever With Detent - Required For Attachments With a Clamp Action: The lever is spring-loaded toward the operator. The lever is operated by moving it to the right, then forward or backward.

•

Control Lever With a Detent - Four Function Control Valve: The lever is spring loaded toward the operator and controls the third and fourth functions. The third function is operated by moving the lever forward or backward. The fourth function is operated by moving the lever to the right, then forward or backward.

Lift Section (See Figure 8-7) When the spool is moved to the Lift position, the spool makes a restriction in the open center passage. The increased pressure in the parallel passage causes oil to flow from the supply cavity through a section of the spool to the lift cylinder. The check valve prevents the movement of the load until the system pressure is great enough to control the load.

When the spool is in the Lower position, the spool opens a path from the lift cylinder to the drain cavity. The spool is made so that the oil flow through the open center passage is not stopped.

Figure 8-7. Lift and Lower Legend for Figure 8-7.

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LIFT/LOWER SPOOL SUPPLY CAVITY TO/FROM LIFT CYLINDERS DRAIN CAVITY OPEN CENTER PASSAGE TO LIFT CYLINDERS TO HYDRULIC TANK

Tilt Section

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System The basic operation of the tilt spool is the same as the other spools in this control valve. The tilt control spool is inside the tilt spool and adds an additional sequence to the tilt forward function.

TILT BACKWARD (See Figure 8-9.)

When retracted past Neutral position the tilt spool causes a restriction of the oil flow through the open center passage. The increased pressure in the parallel passage causes the oil to flow through the check valve to the supply cavity. The oil flows from the supply cavity through a section of the spool to the tilt cylinders. The check valve prevents the movement of the load until the system pressure is great enough to control the load. Oil from the piston end of the tilt cylinder returns through the main control valve and to the hydraulic tank.

TILT FORWARD (See Figure 8-9.)

The tilt control spool that is inside of the tilt spool operates during the tilt forward function. The tilt control spool prevents cavitation in the piston end of the tilt cylinders. Cavitation occurs when the available fluid does not fill the space in a closed system. The high vacuum will cause some of the fluid to change to bubbles of gas. When cavitation occurs in the tilt cylinders, the tilt forward function is not smooth.

The tilt control spool permits the regulation of the tilt speed by using the pressure from the hydraulic pump. The tilt control spool prevents oil flow from the rod end of the tilt cylinder until the pressure is great enough to shift the tilt control spool. This action makes sure that a vacuum cannot occur at the piston ends of the tilt cylinders.

Figure 8-8. Tilt Spool Operation Legend for Figure 8-8.

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LIFT/LOWER SPOOL SUPPLY CAVITY TO/FROM LIFT CYLINDERS DRAIN CAVITY OPEN CENTER PASSAGE TO LIFT CYLINDERS

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System 7. TO HYDRAULIC TANK 8. SPRING Relief Valve (Main Hydraulic) The pressure in the main hydraulic system is sensed at the relief valve. If the pressure increases to the relief valve setting, the pilot poppet moves against the pilot spring. When the small oil flow through the orifice of the pilot poppet occurs, a decrease in pressure occurs across the relief valve. This difference in pressure moves the relief valve poppet off the seat. When the poppet moves off the seat, oil flows through an internal passage that directs the oil flow to the oil tank to decrease the pressure. The decrease in pressure lets the spring return the poppet back to the seat.

REPAIRS, HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVE Removal (See Figure 8-11. and Figure 8-12.)

WARNING Before making and repairs to the hydraulic control valve, fully lower all parts of the mast and tilt it fully forward. This action will prevent the mast from lowering suddenly when hydraulic lines are disconnected.

1. Remove the cover tray from around the control levers.

2. Remove the cotter pins, washers, and link pins that connect the control levers to the spools. Remove the bolts that hold the end plates to the control valve. Remove the linkage as a unit.

3. Disconnect the lines at the hydraulic control valve. Mark the hose locations. Put caps onto the open lines.

4. Remove the bolts that hold the hydraulic control valve to the frame bracket.

Disassembly (See Figure 8-10.)

NOTE: Disassemble the hydraulic control valve as necessary for repairs. Most repairs to the hydraulic control valve are for the replacement of 0-rings and seals to stop leaks. The passages in the tilt spool are small and can need cleaning if the hydraulic oil becomes dirty. The section normally must be replaced if the spool or valve section is damaged.

1. Remove the end cap from the valve section. Carefully pull the spool from the valve section. Do not remove the spring retainers unless a spring must be replaced.

2. The valve sections can be separated when the three through bolts are removed.

3. Remove the tilt control spool by removing the end of the tilt spool. Carefully remove the tilt control spool from the tilt spool.

4. A relief valve is normally replaced if it is damaged.

Cleaning And Inspection WARNING Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the solvent manufacturer's recommended safety procedures.

Clean all parts of the control valve with solvent.

1. Check the spools and bores for wear or damage. If a spool or the bores have damage, then the control valve section must be replaced. Make sure that the spools move freely in the bores.

2. Check the check valves and relief valves for wear or damage. Replace the parts as necessary.

3. Check the parts of the linkage for the control valve levers. Replace worn or damaged parts as necessary.

Assembly (See Figure 8-10.)

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System CAUTION Before installing the parts into the valve body, make sure all parts are clean. Replace all the seals and the 0-rings. Lubricate the moving parts with clean hydraulic oil during assembly.

1. Install new seals in the bores of the sections. Install new 0-ring seals between the sections.

2. If the return springs were removed from the control spools, install the spring retainers.

3. Lubricate the spools with clean hydraulic oil. Make sure that dirt does not get on any of the parts. Carefully install the spools into the valve body. Install the seal retainers and the covers for the return springs.

4. Install the relief valves. Adjust the relief settings for the hydraulic system as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. 5. Connect the hydraulic lines to the control valve.

6. Install the cover tray. Make sure the cover trays fit over the edges of the boot. Adjust the cover tray as necessary so that it fits in the opening of the hood.

7. Add the hydraulic oil to the tank. See the section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE for the correct specifications.

8. Operate the system and check for leaks and correct operation. Adjust the relief valves as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.

Figure 8-9. Hydraulic Control Valve Three Function Dual Relief Shown

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System Legend for Figure 8-9.

1. RETAINER 2. PLATE 3. WIPER 4. 0-RING 5. BRACKET 6. END COVER 7. THROUGH BOLT 8. AUXILIARY SECTION 9. SPOOL 10. COLLAR 11. SPRING 12. WASHER 13. CAPSCREW 14. CAP 15. RELIEF VALVE 16. PLUG 17. BACK-UP RING 18. LOAD CHECK VALVE 19. TILT CONTROL SPOOL 20. TILT SPOOL 21. TILT SECTION 22. LIFT/LOWER SPOOL 23. LIFT/LOWER SECTION 24. CHECKVALVE 25. INLET SECTION 26. PISTON 27. BODY 28. JOINT 29. CAP 30. LOCKNUT 31. ADJUSTMENT SCREW 32. POPPET 33. SEAT Installation (See Figure 8-11. and Figure 8-12.)

1. Install the control valve onto the bracket.

2. Install the link pins, washers, and cotter pins into the control valve spools.

3. Install the linkage assembly. Check the operation of the levers. Make sure the levers operate as described at the front of this section.

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System

Figure 8-10. Linkage For Control Levers (3-Functions) Legend for Figure 8-10.

1. KNOB 2. LABEL 3. LEVER 4. PIVOT PIN 5. BUSHING 6. LINK 7. COTTER PIN 8. BRACKET 9. CONTROL VALVE 10. THROUGH BOLT 11. CENTER SPRING 12. WASHER 13. YOKE 14. PIN 15. SHIM

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System 16. DUST BOOT 17. COVER 18. TRIM MOLDING 19. PLUG

Figure 8-11. Linkage For Control Levers (4-Functions) Legend for Figure 8-11.

1. KNOB 2. LABEL 3. LEVER 4. WASHER 5. CENTER SPRING 6. PIVOT PIN 7. BUSHING 8. YOKE 9. LINK 10. BRACKET 11. CONTROLVALVE 12. THROUGH BOLT 13. COTTER PIN

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System 14. PIN 15. SHIM 16. DUST BOOT 17. COVER 18. TRIM MOLDING 19. PLUG Installation (See Figure 8-10 and Figure 8-11) 1. Install the control valve onto the bracket.

2. Install the link pins, washers, and cotter pins into the control valve spools.

3. Install the linkage assembly. Check the operation of the levers. Make sure the levers operate as described at the front of this section.

RELIEF VALVES, CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS NOTE: The inlet section of the hydraulic control valve has two relief valves, a steering relief valve and a primary hydraulic relief valve.

Steering Relief Valve (See Figure 8-13.)

1. Connect a 0 to 25 MPa (0 to 3000 psi) gauge to the test port at the inlet section of the control valve. See Figure 8-13.

2. Remove the cap. Loosen the jam nut.

Figure 8-12. Relief Valve Locations Legend for Figure 8-12.

1. TEST PORT 2. PRIMARY HYDRAULIC RELIEF VALVE 3. STEERING RELIEF VALVE 1. Start the engine and operate the hydraulic system to warm the oil temperature TOSS to 650C (130 to 1500F).

Run the engine at approximately 2000 rpm when making pressure checks.

2. Turn the steering wheel to the stop and hold it there. Turn the adjustment screw as necessary to change the setting. The correct setting is 5.4 + 0.5 MPa (785 + 75 psi). While holding the adjustment screw, tighten the jam nut and install the cap when the adjustment is correct.

3. Remove the gauge when the checks are complete.

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System Primary Hydraulic Relief Valve (See Figure 8-13.)

1. Connect a 0 to 20 MPa (0 to 3000 psi) gauge to the test port at the inlet section of the control valve. See Figure 8-13.

2. Remove the cap. Loosen the jam nut.

3. Start the engine and operate the hydraulic system to warm the oil temperature toSS to 650C (130 to 1500F).

Run the engine at approximately 2000 rpm when making pressure checks.

4. Raise the mast until it stops. Hold the lever and check the reading of the gauge when the relief valve opens.

Turn the adjustment screw as necessary to change the setting. The correct setting is 17.7 +0.5 MPa (2650 + 75 psi). While holding the adjustment screw, tighten the jam nut and install the cap when the adjustment is correct.

5. Remove the gauge when the checks are complete.

Check The Hydraulic Pump For Correct Flow NOTE: Make sure the hydraulic oil is at operating temperature 35 to 650C (100 to 1500F).

1. Install a flow meter in the outlet line of the hydraulic pump. Follow the manufacturer's recommended procedure for operation.

2. Check the output of the hydraulic pump. The correct rate for the primary flow is 45.8 liters per minute (12.1 gallons per minute) at 2000 rpm for gasoline and LPG engines. The correct rate for the primary flow is 66.6 liters per minute (17.6 gallons per minute) at 2000 rpm for diesel engines.

TROUBLESHOOTING - HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVE PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE Oil leaks at the end of a spool.

Seal for spool is damaged Spool is damaged.

Valve body is damaged.

Spool will not move or is difficult Linkage is disconnected or to move. damaged.

Return spring is damaged.

The spool or bore is damaged.

Spool will not return to Linkage is disconnected or NEUTRAL. damaged.

Return spring is damaged.

Dirt between spool and the bore.

Spool is bent or damaged.

Slow or no movement of Linkage is disconnected or cylinders. damaged.

Pressure relief valve(s) is not adjusted correctly or is damaged.

Large leaks between spool and bore.

Spool is not fully extended or retracted.

Hydraulic pressure is above Pressure relief valve(s) is not specifications. adjusted correctly or is damaged.

Restriction in return line.

Tilt cylinders extend when the tilt Oil leaks between control valve spool is in the NUETRAL spool and bore. position.

Hydraulic lines have leaks.

Tilt cylinders extend suddenly Check valve for tilt spool is when the tilt spool is moved to damaged.

BACK TILT position.

Tilt cylinders extend suddenly Tilt control spool inside the tilt when the tilt spool is moved to spool is damaged.

FORWARD TILT position.

Lift cylinders retract when the lift Check valve for the lift spool is spool is in the NUETRAL damaged. position.

Hydraulic lines have leaks.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION Install new seal.

Install new spool.

Install new valve section.

Connect or repair linkage.

Install new spring.

Install new spool or valve section.

Connect or repair linkage.

Install new spring.

Clean valve.

Install new spool.

Connect or repair linkage.

Adjust or repair relief valve.

Install new spool or valve section.

Adjust linkage.

Adjust or repair relief valve(s) Clean or install new line.

Install new spool or valve section.

Install new lines.

Install new check valve.

Install new tilt spool.

Install new check valve.

Install new lines.

Sheet 14: Hydraulic System Leaks between the lift spool and the bore TROUBLESHOOTING - HYDRAULIC PUMP TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE The pump makes more noise The oil level is not correct or than normal there is no oil in the tank (cavitation).

Wrong type or grade of hydraulic oil for the temperature or operation. (cavitation).

The suction screen has a restriction (cavitation).

The inlet fitting is loose or hoses are allowing air to enter the system (aeration).

The pump bearings or gears have damage.

The capscrews that hold the pump together are loose.

The pump is loose.

The output of the pump is less than specifications.

The pump has leaks.

The pressure for the steering system is below specifications.

The flow for the steering system is below specifications.

The pump drive mechanism is loose, worn, or has damage.

See Possible cause for "The pump makes more noise than normal".

The fittings or hoses on the outlet side of the pump are loose or damaged.

The capscrews that hold the pump together are loose.

The seals in the pump are damaged.

The relief valve is not adjusted correctly.

The relief valve has damage.

The pump is worn.

The flow control valve is not operating correctly.

The relief valve is not adjusted correctly.

Install new spool or valve section.

PROCEDURE OR ACTION Check oil level and fill as required. Check for leaks.

Check. Drain tank, and with the correct specified oil.

Clean or install new screen.

Tighten fitting. Install new hoses.

Remove air from the system.

Repair or install new pump.

Tighten capscrews to specified torque.

Tighten fasteners to the specified torque.

Check repair or install new parts as required.

Se Procedure or Action for "the pump makes more noise than normal".

Tighten fittings. Install new parts as necessary.

Tighten capscrews to specified torque.

Install new seals or a new pump.

Adjust or install new relief valve.

Repair or install new relief valve.

Repair or install new pump.

Repair or install new flow control valve.

Adjust or install new relief valve.

Sheet 15: Mast MAST This section has the description, operation and repair at the mast.

The mast lifts a load vertically. The mast has two movements controlled by hydraulic cylinders: forward and backward tilt and the lifting and the lowering of the mast weldments and carriages.

The outer weldment can move on the hangers at the axle housings. The operation of the tilt cylinders causes the mast to tilt forward and backward. The tilt cylinders are fastened between the frame of the lift truck and the outer weldment of the mast. Hydraulic lift cylinders are installed vertically on the masts. The lift cylinders raise and lower the weldments and the carriage. The hydraulic operation of the lift cylinders and tilt cylinders is described in the Section 8, HYDRAULIC SYSTEM There are three types of masts available: •

Two-stage with limited free-lift

•

Two-stage with full free-lift

•

Three-stage with full free-lift

Each type of mast is described separately in this section.

Figure 9-1. Carriage and Forks Legend for Figure 9-1 1. FORK 2. CARRIAGE 3. LOAD BACKREST EXTENSION

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9 -2. Side-Shift Carriage Legend for Figure 9-2 1.

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STANDARD CARRIAGE TOP BAR TOP BUSHING CYLINDER MOUNTING BRACKET BOTTOM BUSHING SIDE-SHIFT CYLINDER BOTTOM BAR

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Carriages The carriage is a part of the mast assembly and moves within the vertical channels of the inner weldment. Load rollers, attached to the carriage, travel in the channels of the inner weldment. Forks or other types of load handling equipment are attached to the carriage. A load backrest extension is attached to the carriage and adds support for a load that has multiple pieces. See Figure 9-1.

The side-shift carriage allows the operator move the forks and load from side-to-side. This function makes it easier for the operator to align the forks with a load or align the load with a stack. The side-shift carriage is installed on the fork bars of the standard carriage. Special bushings fit between the side-shift carriage and the fork bars. A side-shift cylinder is installed on a plate that fits on the standard carriage. The side-shift cylinder moves the side-shift carriage on the standard carriage. See Figure 9-2.

Mast Mounts (See Figure 9-3.)

The mast can tilt forward and backward. Tilt cylinders are fastened between the frame of the lift truck and the outer weldment of the mast to change the angle of the mast and forks. The mast pivots directly on the drive axle housing.

Mounts are welded to the back of the outer channel. Each mount has a retainer cap to attach the mast to the axle housing. Each mast mount uses one bushing. There are no bushings used in the retainer caps.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-3. Mast Mount Legend for Figure 9-3.

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RETAINER CAP SPACER TILT CYLINDER OUTER WELDMENT BUSHING SHIMS PIN ROD END

TWO-STAGE LIMITED FREE-LIFT MAST Description And Operation (See Figure 9-4.and Figure 9-5.)

The two-stage limited free-lift mast has an outer weldment, an inner weldment, and two lift cylinders. At the base of the inner weldment there is one load roller on each side. These load rollers travel along the flanges inside the outer weldment. At the top of the outer weldment there is also one load roller on each side. These load rollers travel along the flanges on the outside of the inner weldment. The angle of the load rollers permits them to control the forces from the front, back and sides of the mast. The strip bearings are installed at the top of each outer channel. Shims can be used to keep the correct clearance between the outer weldment and the inner weldment.

The two single-stage lift cylinders are installed at the back of the outer weldment. The base of each lift cylinder sits in a mount at the bottom crossmember on the outer weldment. The top of each lift cylinder (cylinder rods) fits into a guide at the top of the inner weldment. Operation of the lift cylinders extends and retracts the inner weldment.

Two lift chains control the movement of the carriage. The chains fasten to mounts that are near the top of the lift cylinder shells. The chains go up and over the chain sheaves and then connect to the carriage. The chain sheaves are installed at the top crossmember of the inner weldment. When the lift cylinders extend, the lift chains transfer the force from the lift cylinders to the carriage. The inner weldment and carriage can raise a small amount before the overall height of the mast increases. During lifting, the inner weldment moves at the same speed of the lift cylinders.

Sheet 15: Mast The carriage moves at two times the speed of the inner weldment.

When the lift cylinders retract, the weight of the load, carriage and inner weldment pushes the oil from the lift cylinders. The oil flows from the lowering control valves in the lift cylinders, through the external lowering control valve and then to the hydraulic tank.

Figure 9-4. Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-4.

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OUTER WELDMENT INNER WELDMENT LIFT CHAIN LIFT CYLINDER LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)

Figure 9-5. Operation Of The Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-5.

Sheet 15: Mast 1.

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LIFT CYLINDER LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL) LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) TO/FROM MAIN CONTROL VALVE OUTER WELDMENT INNER WELDMENT LIFT CHAIN CARRIAGE

TWO-STAGE FULL FREE-LIFT MAST Description (See Figure 9-6.)

The two-stage full free-lift mast has an inner weldment, an outer weldment and three single-stage lift cylinders. It is called a full free-lift mast because the carriage can travel to the top of the inner weldment without extending the inner weldment. The two-stage full free-lift mast has load roller and strip bearing arrangements the same as the two-stage limited free-lift mast.

The two main lift cylinders are installed at the back of the outer weldment. The base of each lift cylinder sits in a mount at the bottom crossmember on the outer weldment. The top of each lift cylinder (cylinder rod) fits into a guide at the top of the inner weldment. The free-lift cylinder is installed in the inner weldment. Each of the lift cylinders has an internal lowering control valve. A single external lowering control valve is connected by tubing to all the lift cylinders.

The free-lift chains connect at one end to the crossmember for the free-lift cylinder. Two chain sheaves are installed on a crosshead on the cylinder rod of the free-lift cylinder. The chains then go over sheaves on the crosshead and connect to the carriage.

Operation The three lift cylinders are connected by hoses and tubing as shown in Figure 9-7. When the mast is extended, oil flows from the main control valve to the base of the main lift cylinders. The oil then flows through the left-hand cylinder rod and through tubing to the base of the free-lift cylinder. The free-lift cylinder raises only the carriage.

When the free-lift cylinder is fully extended, the two main lift cylinders extend the inner weldment. The free-lift cylinder extends first because it has less weight to lift. When the load is lowered, the main lift cylinders lower first because they have a greater load. The oil flows from the main lift cylinders, through the lowering control valves to the hydraulic tank. Oil from the free-lift cylinder flows from the cylinder and through tubing to the cylinder rod on the left side of the mast. The oil then flows from the left-hand lift cylinder to the hydraulic tank.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-6. Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-6.

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OUTER WELDMENT INNER WELDMENT FREE-LIFT CHAIN FREE-LIFT CYLINDER MAIN LIFT CYLINDER LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-7. Operation Of The Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-7.

1. RIGHT-HAND LIFT CYLINDER 2. LEFT-HAND LIFT CYLINDER 3. FREE-LIFT CYLINDER 4. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL) 5. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) 6. TO/FROM MAIN CONTROL VALVE 7. OUTER WELDMENT 8. INNER WELDMENT 9. LIFT CHAIN 10. CARRIAGE When the main lift cylinders retract, the hydraulic oil flows through the hydraulic port (5) until the piston ring moves past the hydraulic port during the last 20 2mm of the retraction stroke. During the last 20 mm of the retraction stroke, the hydraulic oil must flow through the small orifice (6). This action causes the piston to move much more slowly at the end of the retraction stroke and prevents a sudden stop at the end of the lowering sequence. This cushion effect makes a smoother operation during the lowering sequence of the main lift cylinders. All masts with full free-lift in this section use this design in the main lift cylinders.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-8. Cylinder Cushion During Lowering Sequence, Main Lift Cylinder Piston Legend for Figure 9-8.

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CYLINDER ROD CYLINDER SHELL PISTON INTERNAL CHECK VALVE HYDRAULIC PORT ORIFICE CUSHION RING

THREE-STAGE FULL FREE-LIFT MAST Description (See Figure 9-9.)

The three-stage full free-lift mast has three weldments: outer, intermediate, and inner. The mast is extended by two single-stage main lift cylinders. The carriage is raised by a free-lift cylinder. It is called a full free-lift mast because the carriage can move to the top of the inner weldment without extending the inner weldment. The weldments are telescopic and have the load roller and strip bearing arrangements similar to the two-stage full free-lift mast. The two main lift cylinders are installed at the back of the outer weldment. The base of each lift cylinder sits in a mount at the bottom crossmember of the outer weldment. The top of each main lift cylinder (cylinder rod) fits into a guide at the top crossmember of the intermediate weldment. The free-lift cylinder is installed to the inner weldment. Each lift cylinder has an internal lowering control valve. Tubing connects a single external lowering control valve to all of the lift cylinders.

The two main lift chains are connected to mounts that are welded near the top of the lift cylinder shells. The lift chains then go over sheaves at the top of the intermediate weldment and fasten at the bottom of the inner weldment.

The free-lift chains connect at one end to the crossmember for the free-lift cylinder. Two chain sheaves are installed on a crosshead on the cylinder rod of the free-lift cylinder. The chains then go over sheaves on the crosshead and connect to the carriage.

Operation (See Figure 9-10.)

Hoses and tubing connect the three hydraulic cylinders. To extend the mast, oil from the main-control valve flows to

Sheet 15: Mast all cylinders at the same time. The free-lift cylinder extends first because it lifts the least amount of weight. The free-lift cylinder raises the carriage to the top of the inner weldment. After the free-lift cylinder reaches the end of its stroke, the main lift cylinders begin to extend. When the main lift cylinders extend the intermediate weldment, the lift chains raise the carriage.

During lowering, the main lift cylinders lower first because they have a greater load. After the main lift cylinders have retracted, the free-lift cylinder lowers. All oil from the lift cylinders flows through the lowering control valves to the hydraulic tank.

Figure 9-9. Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-9.

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OUTER WELDMENT INTERMEDIATE WELDMENT INNER WELDMENT FREE-LIFT CHAIN MAIN LIFT CHAIN FREE-LIFT CYLINDER MAIN LIFT CYLINDER LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-10. Operation Of The Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-10.

1. LIFT CYLINDER 2. FREE-LIFT CYLINDER 3. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL) 4. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) 5. TO/FROM MAIN CONTROL VALVE 6. FREE-LIFT CYLINDER 7. OUTER WELDMENT 8. INTERMEDIATE WELDMENT 9. INNER WELDMENT 10. MAIN LIFT CHAIN 11. CARRIAGE 12. FREE-LIFT CHAIN There is hydraulic oil on the rod side of the piston. There are two orifices in the cylinder rod, one larger than the other, items (3) and (4). As the cylinder rod extends, the hydraulic oil on the rod side flows to the base of the cylinder through the larger orifice (3) and the internal check valve (6). When the cylinder rod extends to the last 25 mm (1.0 in) of its stroke, the retainer at the top of the cylinder closes the larger orifice (3). Now, the remainder of the hydraulic oil must flow through the small orifice (4) to the internal check valve (6). This action increases the hydraulic pressure so that the main lift cylinders begin to extend.

At the end of the free-lift stroke the oil flow through the small orifice gives a cushion effect for the free-lift cylinder.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-11. Cylinder Phase During Lifting Sequence, Free-Lift Cylinder Piston Legend for Figure 9-11.

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CYLINDER ROD CYLINDER SHELL LARGER HOLE ORIFICE (SMALLER HOLE) PISTON INTERNAL CHECK VALVE

MAST REPAIRS WARNING Before working on or near the mast, read SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST. SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (1 of 2) The following procedures must be used when inspecting or working near the mast. Additional precautions and procedures can be required when repairing or removing the mast.

WARNING Mast parts are heavy and can move. Distances between parts are small. Serious injury or death can result if part of the body is hit by parts of the mast or the carriage.

• • • • • •

Never put any part of the body into or under the mast or carriage unless all parts are completely lowered or a safety chain is installed. Also make sure that the power is off and the key is removed.

Put a "DO NOT OPERATE" tag in the operator's compartment. Disconnect the battery on electric lift trucks and put a tag or lock on the battery connector.

Be careful of the forks. When the mast is raised, the forks can be at a height to cause an injury.

DO NOT climb on the mast or lift truck at any time. Use a ladder or personnel lift to work on the mast.

DO NOT use blocks to support the mast weldments nor to restrain their movement.

Mast repairs require disassembly and removal of parts and can require removal of the mast or carriage.

Follow the repair procedures in the mast section.

Sheet 15: Mast WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST ALWAYS: Lower the mast and carriage completely. Push the lift/lower control lever forward and make sure there is no movement in the mast. Make sure that all parts of the mast that move are fully lowered.

OR •

If parts of the mast must be in a raised position, install a safety chain to restrain the moving parts of the mast.

Connect moving parts to a part that does not move. Follow these procedures:

a. Put the mast in a vertical position. b. Raise the mast to align the bottom crossmember of the weldment that moves in the outer weldment with a crossmember on the outer weldment (1). On the two-stage LFL and two-stage FFL mast, the moving part is the inner weldment (2). On the three-stage full free-lift mast it is the intermediate weldment (3). c.

Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook (5) to fasten the cross members together so that the movable member can not lower. Put the hook on the back side of the mast. Make sure the hook is completely engaged with a link in the chain. Make sure the safety chain does not touch lift chains or chain sheaves, tubes, hoses, fittings, or other parts on the mast.

d. Lower the mast until there is tension in the safety chain and the free-lift cylinder (6) (two-stage full free-lift and three-stage full free-lift masts only) is completely retracted. If running, stop the engine. Apply the parking brake.

Install a "DO NOT REMOVE' tag on the safety chain(s). e. Install another safety chain (3/8 inch minimum) between the top or bottom crossmember of the carriage (7) and a crossmember on the outer weldment (8).

Apply the parking brake. After lowering or restraining the mast, shut off the power and remove the key. Put a "DO NOT OPERATE' tag in the operator's compartment. Disconnect the battery on electric lift trucks and put a tag or lock on the battery connector.

Sheet 15: Mast

SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (2 of 2)

FORKS The forks are held on the carriage by hooks. The forks are kept in position by latches that fit through the top of the fork hooks and into slots in the top crossmember of the carriage. The forks can be removed from the carriage by

Sheet 15: Mast aligning the forks with the removal notch. The fork removal notch is in the bottom crossmember of the carriage.

Always check that the latches for the forks keep the forks in position on the carriage. If the latches are damaged, install new latch parts.

Removal WARNING Do not try to remove a fork without a lifting device. Each hook fork for these lift trucks can weigh 45 kg to 115 kg (100 to 250 lb).

Slide the fork to the fork removal notch on the carriage. See Figure 9-12. and Figure 9-13. Lower the fork onto blocks so that the bottom hook of the fork moves through the removal notch. See Figure 9-13. Lower the carriage further so that the top hook of the fork is disengaged from the top carriage bar. Move the carriage away from the fork or use a lifting device to move the fork away from the carriage.

Figure 9-12. Remove A Hook Fork Legend for Figure 9-12.

1. CARRIAGE BARS 2. HOOK FORK 3. BLOCKS Installation Move the fork and carriage so that the top hook on the fork can engage the upper carriage bar. Raise the carriage to move the lower hook through the removal notch. Slide the fork onto the carriage so that both upper and lower hooks engage the carriage. Engage the lock pin with a notch in the upper carriage bar.

CARRIAGES Removal, Standard Carriage (See Figure 9-13. and Figure 9-14.)

1. Put a load on the forks that is equal to one-quarter of the rated load. The load must support the carriage so that the carriage cannot fall when it is disconnected from the mast.

Sheet 15: Mast 2. Lower the carriage and forks on blocks so that the lift chains become loose.

WARNING When disconnecting the lift chains, keep control of the ends. Use wire to temporarily connect the ends of the lift chains to the mast. This procedure will prevent the lift chains from falling from the sheaves and causing an injury or damage.

3. Remove the pin from each chain anchor at the carriage. Disconnect the lift chains from the carriage. Use wire to connect the ends of the lift chains to a part of the mast. Make sure the chains can move freely when the inner weldment is raised.

Figure 9-13. Carriage And Forks Legend for Figure 9-13.

1. FORKS 2. CARRIAGE 3. LOAD BACKREST EXTENSION 4. FORK REMOVAL NOTCH 5. LOCK PIN ASSEMBLY 6. LEVER 7. WASHER 8. SPRING 9. PIN 10. KNOB WARNING Make sure that the carriage has stability when the inner weld ment is above the load rollers of the carriage.

4. Use the lift cylinders to raise the inner weldment. If the hydraulic system cannot be used, disconnect the lift cylinders from the inner or intermediate weldment. Connect a crane to the top of the inner weldment. Carefully raise the inner weldment until it is above the load rollers of the carriage.

5. Move the lift truck away from the carriage. Completely lower the inner weldment so that it cannot move.

6. Connect a lifting device to the carriage. Remove the load from the forks with another lift truck. Lower the carriage to the floor so that the load rollers are up.

7. If the forks are removed, use a lifting device to put the carriage on the floor so that the load rollers are up.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-14. Standard Carriage Legend for Figure 9-14.

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CARRIAGE SNAP RING SHIM LOADROLLER CHAIN ANCHOR CHAIN PIN COTTER PIN ANCHOR PIN

Removal, Side-Shift Carriage (See Figure 9-15.)

1. Lower the carriage completely and remove the forks.

2. Connect a lifting device to the lifting eye on the side-shift carriage.

3. Remove the two upper capscrews from the bottom carriage bar. Slowly loosen the two bottom capscrews, but do not remove them. The holes are slots that will allow the bottom carriage bar to move down so that the side-shift

Sheet 15: Mast carriage can be removed. Carefully lift the side-shift carriage from the standard carriage. The side-shift cylinder and mounting bracket will stay on the standard carriage. Remove the bushings.

4. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the side-shift cylinder. Put caps on the open lines. Remove the cylinder mounting bracket from the carriage. If necessary, remove the threaded rods and shims to remove the side-shift cylinder.

HYDRAULIC CONNECTIONS -TWO-STAGE LFL HYDRAULIC CONNECTIONS TWO-STAGE FFL AND THREE-STAGE FFL

Figure 9-15. Side-Shift Carriage Legend for Figure 9-15.

1. TOP BUSHING 2. CYLINDER MOUNTING BRACKET 3. THREADED ROD 4. SHIM 5. SIDE-SHIFT CYLINDER 6. GREASE FITTING 7. TOP CARRIAGE BAR 8. BOTTOM BUSHING 9. BOTTOM CARRIAGE BAR 10. LIFTING EYE Repairs 1. If new load rollers must be installed, make a note of the location and number of the shims. Install the shims, load rollers and snap rings. See CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS for correct adjustment of the load rollers.

NOTE: The carriage can have four or six load rollers. When the carriage has four load rollers, shims are used behind all of the load rollers. When the carriage has six load rollers, shims are installed on the bottom four rollers only.

2. Repair the side-shift cylinder as follows: a. Remove the retainers from the shell. Pull the rod from the shell.

Sheet 15: Mast b. Install new seals, 0-rings, or back up rings as necessary. c.

Lubricate all internal parts with clean hydraulic oil.

d. Install the piston and rod in the shell. Apply Loctite® 242 to the threads of the retainers. Install the retainers and tighten them to 27 Nm (239 lbf in).

Figure 9-16. Side-Shift Cylinder Legend for Figure 9-16.

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SHELL 0-RING BACK-UP RING ROD SEAL RETAINER WIPER PISTONANDROD PISTON SEAL

Installation, Standard Carriage (See Figure 9-13. and Figure 9-14.)

1. Use the hydraulic system of the lift truck or a crane to raise the inner weldment. If the hydraulic system cannot be used, disconnect the lift cylinders from the inner or intermediate weldment. Connect a crane to the top of the inner weldment. Carefully raise the inner weldment until it is above the load rollers of the carriage. Move the lift truck toward the carriage until the inner weldment is aligned with the carriage rollers. Carefully lower the inner weldment until it engages all of the load rollers.

Sheet 15: Mast 2. Check the clearance of the load rollers. See CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS in this section.

3. Connect the lift chains to the chain anchors at the carriage. Use new cotter pins in the anchor pins. Adjust the lift chains as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS in this section.

Installation, Side-Shift Carriage (See Figure 9-15.)

1. Install the side-shift cylinder in the bracket. Use an equal number of shims on both sides of the cylinder to limit side-to-side movement within the bracket. Maximum movement is 0.6 mm (0.024 in). Install the threaded rods to hold the cylinder in position.

2. Install the cylinder mounting bracket on the standard carriage, making sure it is engaged with the notch in the top carriage bar. Connect the hydraulic lines to the side-shift cylinder. Put grease on the ends of the cylinder rod.

3. Install the top bushing on the mounting bracket. Lubricate the outer surface of the bushing with multi-purpose grease.

4. Connect the top and bottom carriage bars by installing the two bottom capscrews. Do not tighten the capscrews.

Lubricate the outer surface of the bottom bushing with multi-purpose grease. Install the bottom bushing in the bottom carriage bar.

5. Make sure the standard carriage is completely lowered. Connect a lifting device to the lifting eye. Install the side-shift carriage on the standard carriage. Put blocks under the bottom bar of the side-shift carriage so that the bottom bushing moves tight against the standard carriage.

6. Install the two top capscrews. Tighten all of the capscrews to 435 Nm (320 lbf ft). Remove the lifting device.

Lubricate the top bushing at the grease fittings.

Removal (See Figure 9-17.)

NOTE: If the mast must be disassembled, remove the forks and carriage. If only the lift cylinders need to be removed, see the procedures for the LIFT CYLINDERS. 1. Fully lower all of the mast weldments and the carriage. Tilt the mast fully forward. Connect a crane to the top of the mast using chains. Make sure all the weldments are fastened together. Make sure the chains will not damage the sheaves, tubing, or other parts of the mast. Make sure the crane has a capacity of at least 1600 kg (3500 lb).

2. Put a drain pan under the area of the hydraulic fittings. Disconnect the hydraulic line at the external lowering control valve on the outer weldment.

WARNING Use a driver, not your fingers, to push the anchor pins from the devises on the tilt cylinders. The cylinder or mast can move and cause serious injury.

3. Remove the capscrews, washers and anchor pins at the tilt cylinder mounts on the mast.

4. Remove the capscrews that hold the retainer caps to the mast mounts.

5. Use the crane to lift the mast assembly from the lift truck. Put the mast on the floor so that the back of the mast is toward the floor.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-17. Mast Mount

Sheet 15: Mast Legend for Figure 9-17.

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RETAINER CAP SPACER TILT CYLINDER OUTER WELDMENT BUSHING SHIMS PIN ROD END

Disassembly Procedures For The Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Or Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-19. and Figure 9-20.)

NOTE: If only the lift cylinders need to be removed and repaired, see the procedures for the LIFT CYLINDERS. When the mast has hose take up hoses, see the procedures for the HOSE TAKE UP ARRANGEMENT. 1. Clean the area around the hydraulic fittings for the lift cylinders. Disconnect the fittings at the lift cylinders and put caps on the open lines.

NOTE: On the two-stage full free-lift mast, remove the brackets and disconnect the hydraulic line for the free-lift cylinder. Remove the free-lift cylinder. Disconnect the free-lift chains at the crossmember.

2. Remove the snap rings and washers from the top of each main lift cylinder. Remove the nut, bolt and spacer at the mount near the top of each main lift cylinder. Disconnect the main lift chains at the mounts.

NOTE: On the two-stage full free-lift mast, remove the hydraulic fitting from the top of the right-hand main lift cylinder.

3. Slide the outer weldment from the inner weldment approximately 30 cm (12 in) to disengage the main lift cylinders from the inner weldment. Remove the main lift cylinders from the outer weldment.

WARNING The weld ments can slide when the mast is moved. A weldment that slides can cause injury. Use a crane to turn the mast slowly and carefully.

4. Slide the inner weldment from the bottom of the outer weldment approximately 30 cm (12 in). Remove the strip bearings and load rollers from the outer weldment. Remove the load rollers from the inner weldment. Make a note of each shim arrangement and load roller location. The shim arrangements will be approximately the same during assembly.

5. Slide the inner weldment half-way out of the top of the outer weldment. Connect a crane to the center of the inner weldment. See Figure 9-18. Slide the inner weldment out of the outer weldment until the stub shafts are in the notches of the channels. Remove the inner weldment from the outer weldment.

6. Remove the chain sheaves and disassemble them as necessary for repair and cleaning.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-18. Inner Weldment

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-19. Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-19 1. OUTER WELDMENT 2. LOAD ROLLER 3. SHIM 4. SNAP RING 5. O-RING 6. SHIM(S) 7. STRIP BEARING 8. WASHER 9. LIFT CYLINDER 10. LIFT CHAIN 11. CHAIN ANCHOR 12. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL) 13. SPRING 14. STAR WASHER 15. HOUSING

Sheet 15: Mast 16. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) 17. INNER WELDMENT 18. CHAIN SHEAVE 19. BEARING

Figure 9-20. Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-20.

1. OUTER WELDMENT 2. LOAD ROLLER 3. SHIM 4. SNAP RING 5. O-RING 6. SHIM(S) 7. STRIP BEARING 8. WASHER 9. LEFT-HAND LIFT CYLINDER 10. RIGHT-HAND LIFT CYLINDER 11. STARWASHER 12. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL)

Sheet 15: Mast 13. HOUSING 14. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) 15. INNER WELDMENT 16. LIFT CHAIN 17. CHAIN ANCHOR 18. FREE-LIFT CYLINDER 19. CYLINDER BRACKET 20. CHAIN SHEAVE 21. CROSSHEAD 22. CHAIN GUARD 23. BEARING

Figure 9-21. Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-21.

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OUTER WELDMENT LOAD ROLLER SHIM SNAP RING O-RING SHIM(S)

Sheet 15: Mast 7. STRIP BEARING 8. WASHER 9. MAIN LIFT CYLINDER 10. LIFT CHAIN 11. STAR WASHER 12. SPRING 13. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL) 14. HOUSING 15. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) 16. CHAIN SHEAVE 17. INTERMEDIATE WELDMENT 18. FREE-LIFT CYLINDER HOSE 19. HOSE SHEAVE 20. CHAIN ANCHOR 21. INNER WELDMENT 22. FREE-LIFT CYLINDER 23. CYLINDER BRACKET Disassembly Procedures For The Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-21.)

1. Disconnect and remove the hydraulic lines for the free-lift cylinder. Remove the brackets for the free-lift cylinder.

Remove the free-lift cylinder. Disconnect the free-lift chains at the crossmember.

2. Disconnect the main lift chains from the chain anchors near the top of the main lift cylinders. Disconnect the other end of the main lift chains at the bottom of the inner weldment. Push the inner weldment toward the bottom of the mast assembly until the bottom load rollers are seen.

3. Remove the strip bearings at the top of the intermediate weldment. Remove the load rollers at the bottom of the inner weldment. Remove the load rollers at the top of the intermediate weldment. Make a note of each shim arrangement and load roller location. The shim arrangements will be approximately the same during assembly.

4. Slide the inner weldment half-way out of the top of the intermediate weldment. Connect a crane to the center of the inner weldment. See Figure 9-18. Slide the inner weldment out of the intermediate weldment until the stub shafts are in the notches of the intermediate weldment. Remove the inner weldment from the intermediate weldment.

5. Remove the snap rings and washers at the top of the main lift cylinders. Remove the nut, bolt and spacer at the mount near the top of each main lift cylinder.

6. Push the intermediate weldment to disengage the lift cylinders. Remove the lift cylinders.

7. Slide the intermediate weldment from the bottom of the outer weldment approximately 30 cm (12 in). Remove the strip bearings at the top of the outer weldment. Remove the snap rings and load rollers from both weldments.

Make a note of each shim arrangement and load roller location. The shim arrangements will be approximately the same during assembly.

8. Slide the intermediate weldment half-way out of the top of the outer weldment. Connect a crane to the center of the intermediate weldment. See Figure 9-18. Slide the intermediate weldment out of the outer weldment until the stub shafts are in the notches of the outer weldment. Remove the intermediate weldment from the outer weldment.

9. Disassemble the chain sheaves as necessary for repair and cleaning. Remove the hydraulic lines and fittings from the weldments as necessary.

Cleaning and Inspection 1. Inspect the chain sheaves and load rollers for wear or damage. DO NOT use steam to clean the lift chains, sheaves or load rollers. The bearings in the sheaves and load rollers are sealed and lubricated.

WARNING Commercial cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause severe skin irritation. When using commercial cleaning solvents, always follow with the solvent manufacturer's recommended safety precautions.

Sheet 15: Mast 2. Clean the lift chains with solvent. Remove all dirt and grease. Inspect the lift chains for wear or damage. The lift chains must be installed on the mast before they can be checked for length. A lift chain becomes longer when it is worn. If a chain is 3% longer than a new lift chain, a new lift chain must be installed. If a chain scale is available, check the lift chain as shown in Figure 9-23. If a chain scale is not available, measure 20 links of the lift chain. Compare the measurement with the lengths shown in Figure 9-23. Lubricate the chains with SAE 30 engine oil. The best method is soaking them in the oil.

WARNING Never install a new section of chain. Replace the complete chain. Never install one new chain of a chain pair. Install two new chains.

Figure 9-22. Inspect The Lift Chains Legend for Figure 9-22.

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WORN PIN CRACKS EDGE WEAR HOLE WEAR LOOSE LEAVES DAMAGED PIN CORROSION

3. Inspect the chain anchors and pins. If any parts are worn or damaged, install new parts.

WARNING Be careful when cleaning with steam. Steam can cause serious burns. Wear protective clothing and gloves.

Never expose your skin to steam.

4. Clean the mast weldments with steam or solvent.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-23. Check The Length Of The Lift Chains WARNING Incorrect welding procedures can cause damage to the structure of the mast. Get information from your Yale lift truck dealer before welding on the mast.

5. Inspect the sliding surfaces for wear or damage. The contact surfaces for the load rollers must be inspected for wear or damage. Inspect all welds for cracks.

Assembly Of The Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift And Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-19. and Figure 9-20.)

NOTE: The shims for the load rollers keep the weldments parallel and give correct clearance. During assembly, the shim arrangement will be approximately the same as before disassembly. Check the clearance and adjust the shims for wear or for changes caused by repairs. The strip bearings are also adjusted by using shims. See CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS in this section for the adjustment procedures.

NOTE: When the mast has hose take up hoses, see the procedures for the HOSE TAKE UP ARRANGEMENT. 1. Connect a crane to the center of the inner weldment. Fit the stub shafts through the notches in the outer weldment. Slide the inner weldment into the outer weldment so that the stub shafts are seen at the top and bottom of the weldments.

2. Install the strip bearings and the shims on the outer weldment. Apply grease to the bearing surface. See Figure 9-24.

NOTE: The instructions for measuring chain wear are shown on the Chain Wear Scale.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-24. Strip Bearings 3. Install the load rollers and shims on both weldments. Check the clearance of the load rollers and strip bearings as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. 4. Install the main lift cylinders as follows: a. On the limited free-lift mast push the inner weldment to engage the rods of the lift cylinders and install the washed and snap ring. b. Install the washers at the top of the left-hand cylinder. Push the inner weldment to engage the rods of the lift cylinders. Check the clearance at the top of the lift cylinder mounts. Add or remove washers at the left-hand cylinder until it is even with the right-hand cylinder. Install the snap ring at the top of the left-hand lift cylinder.

Install the hydraulic fitting on the right-hand cylinder.

5. Install the spacers, nuts and bolts at the mounts for the lift cylinders. Tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (40 lbf ft).

6. Install the housing for the lowering control valve on the outer weldment. Tighten the nuts for the lowering control valve to 18 Nm (159 lbf in). Install the lowering control valve in the housing. Connect the hydraulic lines and fittings between the lowering control valve and the main lift cylinders.

7. Two-stage limited free-lift mast: Install the chain sheaves at the inner weldment. Connect the lift chains to the chain anchors at the main lift cylinder mounts. Attach wires between the ends of the lift chains and the cross-member to control the lift chains during mast installation.

8. Two-stage full free-lift mast: a. Install the free-lift cylinder in the mounts on the inner weldment. Install the brackets for the cylinder and tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (40 lbf ft). b. Install the hose sheave for the free-lift cylinder. Tighten the capscrew for the hose sheave to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).

Install the hydraulic hose and tubing for the free-lift cylinder. c.

Connect the free-lift chains to the chain anchors at the crossmember. Attach a wire between the end of the lift chain and the bottom of the mast to control the lift chain during installation.

Assembly Of The Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-21.)

1. Put the outer weldment on the floor with the mast pivots toward the floor. Connect a crane to the center of the intermediate weldment. Fit the lower stub shafts of the intermediate weldment into the notches in the top of the outer weldment. Slide the intermediate weldment into the outer weldment so that the stub shafts are seen at the top and bottom of both weldments.

2. Install the strip bearings and the shims on the channels of the outer weldment. See Figure 9-24. Apply grease to the bearing surfaces.

3. Install the load rollers and the shims on the outer weldment and at the bottom of the intermediate weldment.

Before doing the next step, adjust the intermediate weldment as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. 4. Install the main lift cylinders. Push the intermediate weldment to engage the lift cylinders. Check the clearance at the top of the lift cylinder mounts. Add or remove washers at the top of the cylinder rods until they are even.

Sheet 15: Mast Install the snap ring and washer at the top of the lift cylinders.

5. Install the housing for the lowering control valve on the outer weldment. Tighten the nuts for the lowering control valve to 18 Nm (159 lbf in). Install the lowering control valve in the housing. Connect the hydraulic lines and fittings between the lowering control valve and the main lift cylinders.

6. Install the chain sheaves at the intermediate weldment.

7. Install the spacers, washers, nuts, and bolts at the mounts for the main lift cylinders. Tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (40 lbf ft).

8. Connect a crane to the center of the inner weldment. Slide the inner weldment into the intermediate weldment so that the stub shafts are seen at the top and bottom of both weldments.

9. Install the strip bearings and the shims on the channels of the intermediate weldment. Apply grease to the bearing surfaces. Install the load rollers and the shims on the intermediate and inner weldments. Before doing the next step, adjust the inner weldment as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. 10. Connect the main-lift chains to the chain anchors at the main-lift cylinder mounts. Put the lift chains over the chain sheaves and connect them to the anchors at the bottom of the inner weldment.

11. Install the free-lift cylinder in the mounts on the inner weldment. Install the brackets for the cylinder and tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (40 lbf ft).

12. Install the hose sheave for the free-lift cylinder. Tighten the capscrew for the hose sheave to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).

Install the hydraulic hose and tubing for the free-lift cylinder.

13. Connect the free-lift chains to the chain anchors at the crossmember. Attach a wire between the end of the lift chain and the bottom of the mast to control the lift Mast Installation 1. Lubricate the bushings and install them into the mounts on the mast.

2. Connect a crane to the top of the mast using chains. Make sure all the weldments are fastened together. Make sure the chains will not damage the sheaves, tubing or other parts of the mast. Make sure the crane has a capacity of at least 1600 kg (3500 lb).

3. Make sure the bushings are installed in the mast mount. Lubricate the drive axle mounts with multi-purpose grease. Use a crane to install the mast assembly on the drive axle mounts. Install the caps that hold the mast to the drive axle. Tighten the capscrews to 90 Nm (66 lbf ft).

4. Connect the tilt cylinders to the mast. Install the anchor pin and cotter pin.

5. Connect the hydraulic line to the lowering control valve.

6. Install the carriage as described in the procedures for the CARRIAGE. 7. Check the tilt cylinder adjustment as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. Operate the mast and check for leaks and correct operation. Check the lift chains as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. 8. Lubricate the sliding surfaces and the load roller surfaces along the full length of the channels as shown in Figure 9-25. Apply lubricant only to the surfaces indicated.

NOTE: The load rollers and sheaves have sealed bearings and do not need additional lubrication.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-25. Lubricate The Mast Legend for Figure 9-25.

1. LUBRICATE STRIP BEARINGS SURFACES 2. LUBRICATE THE SURFACES WHERE THE LOAD ROLLERS TRAVEL 3. LOAD ROLLER LIFT CYLINDERS WARNING Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST at the front of this section.

Removal Of The Main Lift Cylinders (See Figure 9-19., Figure 9-20. and Figure 9-21.)

NOTE: The following procedures are for the removal of the lift cylinders with the mast installed on the lift truck.

1. Remove the carriage as described in the procedures for the CARRIAGE. 2. Raise the mast until it is almost fully extended. Use chains to connect the bottom crossmember of the inner weldment (two-stage limited free-lift or two-stage full free-lift) or intermediate weldment (three-stage full free-lift) to the top crossmember of the outer weldment. On the three-stage full free-lift mast, use a chain to connect the bottom crossmember to a crossmember on the intermediate or outer weldment. Lower the mast so that the chains hold the weight of the weldments.

3. Remove the snap ring or fitting at the top of the lift cylinder that needs to be removed.

4. Put a drain pan under the area of the hydraulic fittings. Disconnect the hydraulic line at the cylinder. Retract the rod into the lift cylinder.

5. Remove the nut, bolt and spacer at the mount. Disconnect the main lift chain at the mount.

6. Remove the lift cylinder from the front of the mast. Use a lifting device as necessary.

Removal Of The Free-Lift Cylinder (See Figure 9-20. and Figure 9-21.)

1. Remove the carriage as described in the procedures for the CARRIAGE. Lower the mast completely.

2. Put a drain pan under the area of the hydraulic fittings. Disconnect the hydraulic line at the cylinder.

3. Remove the brackets for the free-lift cylinder. Remove the free-lift cylinder.

4. See Figure 9-29. Remove the crosshead from the cylinder rod. Disassemble the crosshead as necessary.

Disassembly Of A Lift Cylinder (See Figure 9-26., Figure 9-27. and Figure 9-28.)

CAUTION

Sheet 15: Mast Carefully disassemble the lift cylinders so that the piston rods and sliding surfaces are not damaged.

NOTE: Disassembly of the main lift cylinders and the free-lift cylinder is similar, but all cylinders cannot be completely disassembled. All of the lift cylinders are disassembled from the rod end of the cylinder shell.

1. Loosen the retainer with a spanner. Remove the retainer from the shell.

2. Pull the rod and piston assembly from the shell. Drain the hydraulic oil into a container.

3. Remove the retainer from the piston rod. Remove and discard the 0-rings, seals, and wear rings.

4. Remove the snap ring, washer, and check valve from the base of the piston.

5. Clean all the parts. Check the sliding surfaces for damage. Install new parts if the damaged parts cannot be repaired.

Assembly Of A Lift Cylinder (See Figure 9-26., Figure 9-27. and Figure 9-28.)

1. Lubricate all internal parts of the lift cylinder with clean hydraulic oil or packing lubricant (Yale Part No. 504234269). Use new 0-rings, seals, and wear rings.

2. Install the check valve and 0-ring in the base of the piston. Make sure the arrow on the check valve is towards the base of the piston. Install the washer and snap ring for the check valve.

CAUTION A difficult and important step in assembling lift cylinders is the correct installation of the seals. Most lift cylinder maintenance is caused by seal leaks. Do not damage any parts during assembly.

3. Install the wear ring, piston seal and back-up ring onto the piston assembly. If a spacer is used, install it.

4. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly into the shell.

5. Install the rod seal ring and wiper into the retainer. Install the 0-ring and back-up ring on the outside of the retainer.

6. Carefully install the retainer on the piston rod.

7. Engage the threads and tighten the retainer in the shell until it is tight. Use a correct spanner. Do not hit the retainer with a hammer and driver.

8. Install the lowering control valve. See Figure 9-19., Figure 9-20. and Figure 9-21. Make sure the special washer and the spring are installed correctly. A wrong installation can cause the load to lower too fast.

Installation Of The Main Lift Cylinders (See Figure 9-19., Figure 9-20. and Figure 9-21.)

1. Use a lifting device to raise the mast until it is almost fully extended. Use chains to connect the bottom cross-member of the inner weldment (two-stage limited free-lift or two-stage full free-lift) or intermediate weldment (three-stage full free-lift) to the top crossmember of the outer weldment. Lower the mast so that the chains hold the weight of the weldments.

2. Install the lift cylinder in the mount at the bottom of the outer weldment. Install the nut, bolt, and spacer at the mount for the lift cylinder.

3. Use a lifting device to lower the inner weldment (two-stage limited free-lift or two-stage full free-lift) or intermediate weldment (three-stage full free-lift) onto the lift cylinder. Install the washers and snap ring at the top of the lift cylinder. See the MAST Assembly procedures for the correct adjustment of the lift cylinders.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-26. Main Lift Cylinders For Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-26.

1. WIPER 2. ROD SEAL 3. RETAINER 4. BACK-UP RING 5. 0-RING 6. SPACER 7. RODAND PISTON 8. WEAR RING 9. PISTON SEAL 10. SHELL 4. Connect the hydraulic line at the base of the lift cylinder. Connect the hydraulic line at the top of the left-hand lift cylinder on the two-stage full free-lift mast.

5. Connect the main lift chains as necessary and adjust them as shown in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-27. Main Lift Cylinders For Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Or Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-27.

1. WIPER 2. ROD SEAL 3. RETAINER 4. 0-RING 5. SPACER 6. RODAND PISTON 7. BACK-UP RING 8. PISTON SEAL 9. WEAR RING 10. CHECKVALVE 11. WASHER 12. SNAP RING 13. SHELL

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-28. Free-Lift Cylinder For Two-Stage

Full Free-Lift And Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast

Legend for Figure 9-28.

1. WIPER 2. ROD SEAL 3. RETAINER 4. BACK-UP RING 5. 0-RING 6. ROD AND PISTON 7. BACK-UP RING 8. PISTON SEAL 9. WEAR RING 10. CHECK VALVE 11. WASHER 12. SNAP RING 13. SHELL 14. SEAL WASHER 15. SCREW Installation Of The Free-Lift Cylinder (See Figure 9-20. and Figure 9-21.)

1. See Figure 9-29. Install the crosshead assembly on the cylinder rod. Tighten the capscrews for the chain guards to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).

2. Install the cylinder in the mounts. Install the brackets and tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft).

3. See Figure 9-28. Remove the small screw near the top of the cylinder shell. Pour 150 cc (5 oz) of hydraulic oil into the hole. Connect the hydraulic line at the cylinder.

4. Install the carriage as described in the procedures for the CARRIAGE.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-29. Crosshead Assembly For Two-Stage Full Free-Lift And Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast Legend for Figure 9-29.

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2.

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5.

6.

7.

8.

LIFT CHAIN CHAIN SHEAVE CHAIN GUARD SNAP RING CROSSHEAD BEARING PIN FREE-LIFT CYLINDER

HOSE TAKE UP ARRANGEMENTS Some lift trucks have auxiliary hydraulic equipment that is attached to the carriage. Examples of auxiliary equipment are a side-shift carriage or a roll clamp. These auxiliary functions require arrangements of hose take up hoses for their operation.

NOTE: Hoses have a service life that is determined by application and time. All hoses must be inspected at the intervals specified in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE for the hydraulic system. Install a new hose if the hose is worn, damaged, soft, or hard and no longer flexible. If necessary, make a comparison to a new hose that is the correct replacement for the hose you are inspecting.

New Hose Installation, Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-19., Figure 9-30. And Figure 9-31.)

WARNING Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the front of this section.

Sheet 15: Mast NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option. The three function option will have hoses "A' and "B' only.

NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the hose take up hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.

1. Mark each hose with a single letter, "A,' "B,' "C,' or 2. Use a calculator to calculate dimension "E.' See Figure 9-30.

3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that attaches to the carriage in a vise (do not clamp on the threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight. Do not apply enough force to stretch the hose. See Figure 9-30.

4. Mark all the hoses with dimension "E' (all measurements are made from the carriage end of the hose [the smaller fitting]). See Figure 9-30.

5. See Figure 9-31. Attach the hoses to the carriage brackets (5) with the clamps (19).

6. Put the hoses at the location of the hose sheave (10). The hose sheave and stub shaft (9) must be assembled onto the hose before they are attached to the mast. Tighten the mounting hardware to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).

7. Put the clamps (14) over the hoses and attach the clamps to the upper brackets (8) (do not tighten the hardware).

NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension "E' easier, use a crane to raise the carriage high enough to install a safety chain as shown in SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST at the beginning of MAST REPAIRS. 8. Align mark "E' at the bottom of the clamps (14). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

9. Connect the hose take up hoses (1) to the cowl hoses 10. Use the rubber clamps and hose clamps to attach the hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the hoses do no stretch or fold while tilting fully forward and backward.

11. With no load on the forks, check the hose take up hose adjustment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be so tight that they compress when they pass over the sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation, Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift. * METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS) DIMENSION "E' = (Y + Z + 204) x 0.98 EXAMPLE: DIMENSION "E' = (Y + Z +204) x 0.98 STEP 1. DIMENSION "E' = (1840 + 135 + 204) x 0.98 STEP 2. DIMENSION "E' = 2179 x 0.98 STEP 3. DIMENSION "E' = 2135 * INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES) DIMENSION "E' = (Y + Z + 8.0) x 0.98 EXAMPLE: DIMENSION = (Y + Z +8.0) x 0.98 STEP 1. DIMENSION "E' = (72.4 + 5.3 + 8.0) x 0.98 STEP 2. DIMENSION "E' = 85.7 x 0.98 STEP 3. DIMENSION "E' = 84.0 * ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-30. Hose Take Up Measurement - Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift 1. VISE 2. HOSE

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-31. Hose Take Up - Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Legend for Figure 9-31.

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5.

HOSES CLAMP STRAP FITTINGS CAPSCREW BRACKET, CARRIAGE

Sheet 15: Mast 6. SPACER 7. NUT 8. BRACKET, UPPER 9. STUBSHAFT 10. SHEAVE 11. WASHER 12. NUT 13. CAPSCREW 14. CLAMP 15. WASHER 16. CAPSCREW 17. CAPSCREW 18. CLAMP 19. CLAMP 20. HOSE, COWL 21. CLAMP Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation, Two-Stage Limited Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-19., Figure 9-30. And Figure 9-31.)

1. Loosen the clamps (14) and pull (if the hoses are loose) or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they move 30 mm (1.2 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

2. With no load on the forks, check the hose take up adjustment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be so tight that they compress when they pass over the sheaves, nor will they be so loose that they touch the load backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If necessary, repeat Step 1 until the hoses are properly adjusted.

New Hose Installation, Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-20., And Figure 9-32. Through Figure 9-34.)

WARNING Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the front of this section.

NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option. The three function option will have hoses "A' and "B' only.

NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the hose take up hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.

1. Mark each hose with a single letter, "A,' "B,' "C,' or 2. Use a calculator to calculate dimension "E.' See Figure 9-32.

3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that attaches to the carriage in a vise (do not clamp on the threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight. Do not apply enough force to stretch the hose. See Figure 9-32.

4. Mark all the hoses with dimension "E' (all measurements are made from the carriage end of the hose [the smaller fitting]). See Figure 9-32.

5. See Figure 9-33. Attach the hoses to the carriage bracket (14) with clamps (15).

6. Put the hoses (3) over the free-lift chains (27).

7. Put the clamps (10) over the hoses and attach the clamps to the free-lift bracket (12) (do not tighten the hardware).

NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension "E' easier, use a crane to raise the carriage high enough to install a safety chain as shown in SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST at the beginning of MAST REPAIRS. 8. Align mark "E' at the bottom of the clamp (10). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

9. Install the hose guards (28) at the free-lift crosshead. Tighten the capscrews that mount the guards to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).

Sheet 15: Mast NOTE: The proper hose alignment is shown in Figure 9-34.

10. Apply a spray lubricant onto the hoses in the area that will contact the channels. Make sure the hoses are properly aligned in the channels (1 and 2). Put the clamps (5) over the hoses and attach the clamps to the channels. Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). See Figure 9-33.

11. Connect the hose take up hoses (4, C and D) to the cowl hoses (25). Connect the hose take up hoses (4, A and B) to the tubes (21).

12. Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the hoses do no stretch or fold while tilting fully forward and backward.

13. With no load on the forks, operate the mast through the full lift cycle two times. With the mast at full lift height, attach clamp (20) at the bottom of the hose loop on the third and/or fourth function hoses. This action allows the hoses to fit properly in the hose channel.

14. With no load on the forks, check the hose take up adjustment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be so tight that they compress when they pass over the sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave.

If the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation, Two-Stage Full Free-Lift. * METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS) DIMENSION "E' = (Y + 2 + Z + 186) x 0.985 EXAMPLE: DIMENSION "E' = (Y + 2 + Z + 186) x 0.985 STEP 1. DIMENSION "E' = (1840 + 2 + 135 + 186) x 0.985 STEP 2. DIMENSION "E' = (920 + 135 + 186) x 0.985 STEP 3. DIMENSION "E' = 1241 x 0.985 STEP 4. DIMENSION "E' = 1222 * INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES) DIMENSION "E' = (Y + 2 + Z + 7.3) x 0.985 EXAMPLE: DIMENSION = (Y +2 + Z + 7.3) x 0.985 STEP 1. DIMENSION "E' = (72.4 + 2 + 5.3 + 7.3) x 0.985 STEP 2. DIMENSION "E' = (36.2 + 5.3 + 7.3) x 0.985 STEP 3. DIMENSION "E' = 48.8 x 0.985 STEP 4. DIMENSION "E' = 48.0 * ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-32. Hose Take Up Measurement - Two-Stage Full Free-Lift 1. VISE 2. HOSE Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation, Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-20., And Figure 9-32.

Through Figure 9-34.)

1. Loosen the clamps (10) and pull (if the hoses are loose) or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they move 15 mm (0.6 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

Sheet 15: Mast 2. With no load on the forks, check the hose take up adjustment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be so tight that they compress when they pass over the sheaves nor will they be so loose thattheytouch the load backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave.

If necessary, repeat Step 1 until the hoses are properly adjusted.

Figure 9-33. Hose Take-Up Two-Stage Full Free-Lift Legend for Figure 9-33 1.

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4.

CHANNEL CHANNEL HOSE CLAMP, STRAP

Sheet 15: Mast 5. CLAMP 6. CLAMP 7. CLAMP 8. CLIP 9. FITTING 10. CLAMP 11. BRACKET 12. BRACKET-FREE-LIFT 13. CAPSCREW 14. BRACKET, CARRIAGE 15. CLAMP 16. CAPSCREW 17. NUT 18. HOSE GUIDE 19. SNAP RING 20. CLAMP, STRAP 21. TUBE 22. CLAMP 23. CLAMP 24. FITTING 25. HOSE, COWL 26. CLAMP, STRAP 27. CHAIN, FREE-LIFT 28. GUARD

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-34. Hose Take Up Alignment - Two-Stage Full Free-Lift New Hose Installation, Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-21. And Figure 9-35. Through Figure 9-37.)

WARNING Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the front of this section.

NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option. The three function option will have hoses "A' and "B' only.

NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the hose take up hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.

1. Mark each hose with a single letter, "A,' "B,' "C,' or 2. Use a calculator to calculate the dimensions "E' and "G.' See Figure 9-35.

3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that attaches to the carriage in a vise (do not clamp on the

Sheet 15: Mast threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight. Do not apply enough force to stretch the hose. See Figure 9-35.

4. Mark the all the hoses with dimensions "E' and "G.' (all measurements are made from the carriage end of the hose [the smaller fitting]). See Figure 9-35.

5. See Figure 9-36. Attach the hoses to the carriage bracket (3) with clamps (9).

NOTE: The hoses cross each other in one location. The proper hose alignment is shown in Figure 9-37.

6. See Figure 9-36. Put the hoses over the top of the free-lift chains (30) and under the hose guides (23). Attach the hose guides to the lower crossmember and tighten the mounting hardware 33 Nm (212 lbf in). Make sure the bracket (33) is between the crossmember and the hose guide. Put the clamps (21) over the hoses and attach the clamps to the free-lift bracket (22) (do not tighten the hardware).

NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension "E' easier, use a crane to raise the carriage high enough to attach a safety chain as shown in SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST at the beginning of MAST REPAIRS. 7. Align the mark for dimension "E' at the bottom of the clamp (21) to create the proper hose tension. Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). Install the hose guards (31). Tighten the capscrews that mount the guards to 66 Nm (49lbfft).

8. See Figure 9-36. Position the hoses at the hose sheave (11). The hose sheave and stubshaft (10) must be installed onto the hose before they are attached to the mast. Tighten the hardware to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft) 9. Put the clamps (34) over the hoses and attach the clamps to the upper brackets (12) (do not tighten the hardware).

NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension "G' easier, use a crane to raise the inner channel high enough to install a safety chain as shown in SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST at the beginning of MAST REPAIRS. 10. Align mark "G' on hoses "A' and "D' at the bottom edge of clamp (34) to create the proper tension. Align mark "G' on hoses "B' and "C' at the top edge of clamp (34) to create the proper tension. Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

11. Install the clamps (27).

12. Connect the hose take up hoses (1) to the cowl hoses (2).

13. 13.Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the hoses do not stretch or fold while tilting fully forward and backward.

14. With no load on the forks, check the hose take up adjustment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be so tight that they compress when they pass over the sheaves nor will they be so loose thattheytouch the load backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave.

If the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adlustment Of Hoses After Installation, Three-Stage Full Free-Lift. *METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMITERS-) @ DIMENSION "E' = (Y - Z - 246) x 0.985 # DIMENSION "E' = (Y - Z - 746) x 0.985 DIMENSION "G' = (1.965 x Y) - (0.985 x Z) +57.57 EXAMPLE: DIMENSION "E' = (Y - Z - 246) x 0.985 STEP 1. DIMENSION "E' = (1840 - 135 - 246) x 0.985 STEP 2. DIMENSION "E' = 1459 x 0.985 STEP 3. DIMENSION "E' = 1437 THE CALCULATION FOR DIMENSION "G' IS SIMILAR TO DIMENSION "E.' * INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES) @ DIMENSION "E' = (Y - Z - 9.7) x 0.985 # DIMENSION "E' = (Y - Z - 29.3) x 0.985 DIMENSION "G' = (1.965 x Y) - (0.985 x Z) + 2.3

Sheet 15: Mast EXAMPLE :DIMENSION "E' = (Y - Z - 9.7) x 0.985 STEP 1. DIMENSION "E' = (72.4 - 5.3 - 9.7) x0.985 STEP 2. DIMENSION "E' = 57.4 x 0.985 STEP 3. DIMENSION "E' = 56.5 THE CALCULATION FOR DIMENSION "G' IS SIMILAR TO DIMENSION "E.' * ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED. @ FOR MASTS WITH DIMENSION "Y' LESS THAN 2600 mm (102.2 in) # FOR MASTS WITH DIMENSION "Y' GREATER THAN 2600 mm (102.2 in)

Figure 9-35. Hose Take Up Measurement - Three-Stage Full Free-Lift 1. VISE 2. HOSE

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-36. Hose Take Up - Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Legend for Figure 9-36.

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7.

HOSE HOSE, COWL BRACKET, CARRIAGE CAPSCREW CAPSCREW LOCKNUT HOSE GUIDE

Sheet 15: Mast 8. SNAP RING 9. CLAMP 10. STUB SHAFT 11. SHEAVE 12. BRACKET, UPPER 13. WASHER 14. CAPSCREW 15. WASHER 16. NUT 17. SPACER 18. CAPSCREW 19. CAPSCREW 20. NUT 21. CLAMP 22. BRACKET, FREE-LIFT 23. HOSE GUIDE 24. CAPSCREW 25. WASHER 26. LOCKNUT 27. CLAMP 28. CLAMP HOSE 29. CLAMP STRAP 30. CHAIN, FREE-LIFT 31. GUARD, FREE-LIFT 32. FITTING 33. BRACKET 34. CLAMP

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-37. Hose Take Up Alignment - Three-Stage Full Free-Lift (1 of 3)

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-37. Hose Take Up Alignment - Three-Stage Full Free-Lift (2 of 3)

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-37. Hose Take Up Alignment - Three-Stage Full Free-Lift (3 of 3) Legend of Figure 9-37.

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5.

HOSE GUIDE HOSE BOTTOM CROSSMEMBER, INNER CHANNEL FREE-LIFT CYLINDER CYLINDER GUARD

Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation, Three-Stage Full Free-Lift Mast (See Figure 9-21. And Figure 9-35.

Through Figure 9-37.)

1. See Figure 9-36. If the tension of the hoses is correct between the carriage and the clamp (21) at the free-lift bracket (22), go to step 2. If the tension of the hoses is not correct, loosen the clamps (21) and pull (if the hoses are loose) or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they move 15 mm (0.6 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

2. If the tension of the hoses is correct between the clamp (34) at the upper bracket (12) and the clamp (21) at the free-lift bracket (22), go to step 3. If the tension of the hoses is not correct, loosen the clamps (34) and pull (if the hoses are too loose) or push (if the hoses are too tight) on the hoses so that they move 15 mm (1.2 in) plus the amount the hoses were moved in step 1. Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).

3. With no load on the forks, check the hose take up adjustment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be so tight that they compress when they pass over the sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave.

If necessary, repeat steps 1 and 2 until the hoses are properly adjusted.

TILT CYLINDERS Removal WARNING Before removing the tilt cylinders, tilt the mast forward. Use a chain to hold the mast to the frame, and

Sheet 15: Mast prevent the mast from moving forward.

1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the tilt cylinder. Install caps on the hydraulic lines and ports.

WARNING Do not push the anchor pins out of the rod end with your fingers. The tilt cylinder can move suddenly and remove a finger. Use a driver to remove the anchor pins.

Do not permit the tilt cylinders to drop and cause damage.

2. Remove the retainers for the anchor pins. Push the anchor pins out of the rod end with a tool.

3. Use a lifting device to move large tilt cylinders. Remove the anchor pins from the frame anchors. Remove the tilt cylinder from the frame.

Disassembly 1. Put the tilt cylinder in a vise with soft jaws. Remove the rod end from the rod.

2. Remove the end cover, retainer, or gland from the tilt cylinder. Remove the rod and piston from the cylinder.

3. See Figure 9-38. Disassemble the tilt cylinder as necessary.

Cleaning WARNING Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the solvent manufacturer's recommended safety procedures.

Compressed air can move particles so that they cause injury to the user or to other personnel. Make sure that the path of the compressed air is away from all personnel. Wear protective goggles or a face shield to prevent in~ury to the eyes.

Clean all parts in solvent and dry with compressed air.

Assembly (See Figure 9-38.)

NOTE: Always use new seals and 0-rings. Make sure all parts are clean. Lubricate all parts with clean hydraulic oil.

1. Install the piston seal onto the gland. Install the piston on the cylinder rod. Make sure the piston seal in not damaged. Tighten the nut on the piston rod to 163 to 190 Nm (120 to 140 lbfft).

2. Install a new wiper and rod seal. Install the 0-ring and back-up ring onto the gland.

3. Install the gland assembly onto the rod.

4. Install the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder. Tighten the gland to 163 to 176 Nm (120 to 130 lbf ft).

Installation 1. Put the tilt cylinder in the lift truck. Install the anchor pin and in the frame. Install the retainer pin or cotter pin.

2. Install the anchor pin at the mast mount. Install the washer and capscrew for the anchor pin. Tighten the capscrew to 38 Nm (336 lbf in).

3. Connect the hydraulic lines to the tilt cylinder.

4. Operate the tilt cylinders. Check for correct operation and leakage. Adjust the tilt cylinders as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS Check For Leaks In The Lift And Tilt System WARNING

Sheet 15: Mast During the test procedures for the hydraulic system, use chains to fasten the load to the carriage to prevent it from falling. Keep all people away from the lift truck during the tests.

Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hydraulic oil can be injected into the body by the pressure.

Check The Lift Cylinders For Leaks 1. Operate the hydraulic system. Put a capacity load on the forks and raise and lower the load several times. Lower the load and tilt the mast forward and backward several times. Check for leaks.

2. Raise the carriage and load one metre (3 ft). If the carriage slowly lowers when the control valve is in the Neutral position, there are leaks in the hydraulic system. The maximum speed that the carriage is allowed to lower is 50 mm (2 in) per 10 minutes when the hydraulic oil is 300C (900F). If the oil temperature is 700C (1600F), the maximum speed that the carriage can lower is 150 mm (6 in) per 10 minutes.

3. Check the lift cylinders for internal leaks. Remove the load from the forks. Install a gate valve in the supply line between the main control valve and the mast. Put a capacity load on the forks again. Raise the carriage one meter (3 ft). Close the gate valve. If the carriage or mast weldments lower slowly, the seals in the lift cylinders have leaks.

4. If the carriage does not move, open the gate valve and check the movement again. If the carriage lowers when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hydraulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load from the forks.

Figure 9-38. Tilt Cylinder Legend for Figure 9-38.

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CYLINDER SHELL GLAND ROD WIPER ROD SEAL BACK-UP RING 0-RING

Sheet 15: Mast 8. PISTON 9. PISTON SEAL 10. NUT Check The Tilt Cylinders For Leaks 1. Put a capacity load on the forks. Slowly tilt the mast forward. If the mast continues to slowly tilt forward when the control valve is in the Neutral position, there are leaks inside the hydraulic system. The maximum speed that the mast is allowed to tilt forward when there are internal leaks in the lift system is 13 mm (0.5 in) per 10 minutes (measured at rod in the tilt cylinder). The maximum speed is measured when the hydraulic oil is 300C (900F). If the oil temperature is 700C (1600F), the maximum speed 39 mm (1.5 in) per 10 minutes.

2. If the leak rate is greater than the specifications, remove the load from the mast. Install a valve between the port at the front of the tilt cylinder and the hydraulic line. Put the load on the forks again. Close the valve. If the mast tilts slowly forward, the cylinder seals are leaking.

3. If the mast does not move, open the gate valve and check the movement again. If the mast moves forward when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hydraulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load from the forks when the checks are complete.

Adjust The Tilt Cylinders (See Figure 9-39.)

WARNING When the tilt cylinders have tilt limit spacers, make sure they are installed during installation procedures.

Without the tilt limit spacers, the mast can tilt too much and cause an accident or serious injury.

Check the tilt cylinder stroke by slowly tilting the mast fully forward and backward several times. Both tilt cylinders must stop their stroke at the same time. Adjust the rod ends for all tilt cylinders as shown in Figure 9-39. There must be no twist in the mast weldments.

1. Adjust the stroke of the tilt cylinders WITHOUT tilt limit spacers as follows: a. Slowly tilt the mast backward until one cylinder rod stops. On the opposite cylinder, loosen the capscrews on the rod end. Measure the distance from the end of cylinder to the back end of the rod end. Use a wrench and turn the cylinder rod IN until the dimension starts to decrease, then stop. Repeat this procedure until both cylinder rods stop at the same position within 1 mm (0.04 in). After the adjustments are complete, tighten the capscrews on the rod ends to 90 Nm (66 lbf ft).

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-39. Tilt Cylinder Adjustments Legend for Figure 9-39.

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MAST ROD END SHIMS TILT LIMIT SPACER TILT CYLINDER

b. Tilt the mast fully backward and measure the tilt angle. (See the Capacity Plate for tilt angles.) If necessary, adjust both rod ends equally for the correct angle.

2. Adjust the stroke of the tilt cylinders WITH tilt limit spacers as follows: a. Slowly tilt the mast forward until one cylinder rod stops. On the opposite cylinder, loosen the caps-crews on the rod end. Use a wrench and turn the cylinder rod IN as necessary. Repeat this procedure until both cylinder rods stop at the same position within 1 mm (0.04 in). b. Slowly tilt the mast backward until one rod end just contacts the spacer. Add shims to fill the gap at the opposite rod end until both rod ends contact the spacers within 0.5 mm (0.02 in). If the shims have cut slots, install them by opening the shims at the split and install on the tilt cylinders using caution to not damage the cylinder rods.

Close the shims and tilt the mast backwards to flatten the shims. c.

After the adjustments are complete, tighten the capscrews on the rod ends to 90 Nm (66 lbf ft).

d. Tilt the mast fully backward and measure the tilt angle. (See Capacity Plate for tilt angles.) If necessary, add an equal number of shims to both rods for the correct angle.

Adjust The Lift Chains WARNING When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in

Sheet 15: Mast GENERAL PROCEDURES in this section.

Never allow anyone under a raised carriage. Do not put any part of your body in or through the lift mechanism unless all parts of the mast are completely lowered and the engine is STOPPED. Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hydraulic oil can be injected into the body by the pressure.

During test procedures for the hydraulic system, fasten the load to the carriage with chains to prevent it from falling. Keep all personnel away from the lift truck during the tests.

When the lift chains are correctly adjusted: •

The tension will be the same on each chain of the chain set. Check tension by pushing on both chains at the same time.

•

The chain length will be correct.

•

The chains must travel freely through the complete cycle.

Figure 9-40. Lift Chain Adjustment, Hook Or Pin Type Forks

Sheet 15: Mast Legend for Figure 9-40.

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MAST CARRIAGE FORK DISTANCE FROM HEEL OF THE FORK TO THE FLOOR LEVEL

3. See Figure 9-41. Adjust the chain anchors which support the carriage until the bottom of the lower carriage bar is above the floor level as follows: NOTE: When the chain adjustments are complete, make sure that the threads on the nuts of the chain anchors are completely engaged. Make sure that all of the adjustment is not removed from the chain anchors. The chain anchors must be able to move on their mounting.

1. When adjusting the lift chains on forklift trucks equipped with either pin or hook type forks installed, go to Step 2.

If the forklift truck is normally equipped with a hook type carriage and has an attachment without forks go to Step 3. If the forklift truck is normally equipped with a pin type carriage and has an attachment without forks go to Step 4.

NOTE: Prior to performing adjustment procedures make sure that the forklift truck is parked on a level surface and that the mast is in the vertical position.

2. Adjust the chain anchors which support the carriage until the bottom of the fork heel is 6.0 ~+3.0 mm (0.25 -+0.12 in) above the floor level. See Figure 9-40.

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-41. Lift Chain Adjustment, Hook Type Carriage Legend for Figure 9-41.

1. MAST 2. CARRIAGE 3. DISTANCE FROM FLOOR TO LOWER CARRIAGE BAR Class II and III Class IV

82.5 -+3 mm (3.25 +~0.12 in) 133.5 -+3 mm (5.25 +~0.12 in)

Adjust The Mast (See Figure 9-42.)

NOTE: Shims are installed on both sides of the load rollers. Do not add or remove shims from the stub shafts. To change the position of the roller on the stub shaft, move the shims from one side of the load roller to the other.

During assembly, the shim arrangement will be approximately the same as before disassembly. Check the clearance and adjust for wear or change because of repairs.

1. The load rollers control the alignment of the mast weldments. The alignment conditions are given on a list below

Sheet 15: Mast with the most important condition first. See Figure 9-42. a. The weldments must be parallel to each other. b. Use shims to adjust the load rollers. There should be zero clearance between the load roller and the channel at the point of tightest fit. c.

The number of shims under a load roller must be approximately the same as the stub shaft in the opposite side of the weldment. The weldments will be approximately in the center.

2. Adjust the load rollers on the mast as follows: a. Use a prybar to move the weldments from side to side to measure the amount of movement. Repeatthis step in aminimum ofthreedifferentpositions (top, center, bottom) of the weldments. b. Separate the weldments and change the shim arrangements as needed. Assemble the weldments. Slide the weldment all the way to the top and bottom to find the tightest fit. c.

Repeat Steps a and b until there is zero clearance at the point of tightest fit.

d. Measure the distance between the channels of the weldments on the top and bottom. Change shims to keep the distance equal between the top and bottom of the weldments. Also make sure that the weldments are parallel within 1.5 mm (0.060 in).

3. Adjust the strip bearings. Put shims between the strip bearing and the channel. Adjust the strip bearings so that the maximum clearance at the point of tightest fit is 0.8 mm (0.030 in). See Figure 9-24.

Adjust The Carriage (See Figure 9-42.)

1. Install the load rollers on the carriage. Install the shims for the rollers in the same sequence on the stub shaft as before disassembly. When the carriage has six load rollers there are no shims under the top load rollers.

2. Use a crane to raise the carriage up the inner weldment. Find the tightest fit between the load rollers and the inner weldment.

3. Remove the carriage from the mast. Adjust the shim arrangement for each load roller for clearance between the load roller and the inner weldment. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until there is zero clearance at the point of tightest 4. fit.

5. Keep the shim arrangement between the top and bottom load rollers on the same side of the carriage approximately equal. Also keep the shim arrangement on each side of the carriage approximately equal. The carriage must be parallel with the inner weldment within +1.5 mm (0.060 in).

Sheet 15: Mast

Figure 9-42. Mast And Carriage Adjustments Legend for Figure 9-42.

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MAST WELDMENT (CHANNEL) LOAD ROLLER SNAP RING SHIMS STUB SHAFT PARALLEL, EQUAL SPACE WITHIN 1.5 mm (0.060 in) ADJUST LOAD ROLLERS FOR ZERO CLEARANCE

TROUBLESHOOTING

Sheet 15: Mast