1985 – 1990 Suzuki Lt f230ge Lt f230g Lt230s Lt250s 4×4 Atv Repair Manual – Download

SUZUKI LT230 & LT250 • 1985-1990

Chapter One General Information Chapter Two • Troubleshooting Chapter Three Lubrication , Maintenance and Tune-up

II

Chapter Four .

Engine Chapter Five Clutch and Transmission Chapter Six Fuel and Exhaust Systems Chapter Seven Electrical System Chapter Eight Front Suspension and Steering Chapter Nine Rear Axle, Suspension and Final Drive Chapter Ten Brakes Chapter Eleven Body Supplement 1987 and Later Service Information Index

Wiring Diagrams

CONTENTS

OUICK REFERENCE DATA ................................................................................................... IX CHAPTER ONE GENERAL INFORMATION ..................................................................................................... 1 Manual organizalion

Service hints Torque specifications Safety firsl

Spcrlal lipS Expendable suppl ies Parts replacement

Serial numbers

Basic hand tools Tunc-up and troubleshooling l00ls MechaniC'S lips -Off the road" rules

Safel)

CHAPTER TWO TROUBLESHOOTING ........................................................................................................... 15 Operating requirements Emergency troubleshooting

Engme starting Engine pcrfonnance

Engine noises Excessive vibration

Front suspension and steering Brake problems

CHAPTER THREE LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP ................................................................. 19 Pre-checks Service intervals

Tires and wheels Ballery (models so equippc<i)

Periodic lubrication PeriodiC maintenance Engine tunc· up

CHAPTER FOUR ENGINE .................................................................. ,....................................... ....................... 51 Engme pnnciples Engine cooling Scrvicing engine in frame Engine Cylinder head cover and rocker arm assembly C) linder head and camshaft Valves and vah'e seats Cylinder Piston. piston pin and pIston rmgs

011 pump Cam chain tenSloner Kickstarter (chain.driven models) Recoil starter (shaft·driven models) Starter gears (shaft·drivcn models) Secondary bevel gear and drive gear set (shaft·driven models) Crankcase and crankshaft Brcak·m procedure

CHAPTER FIVE CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION ........................................................................................... 94 Clutch operation Centri rugal dutch Manual clutch (shaft-driven models) Manual clutch (chain-driven models) Manual dutch inspection (all models) Clutch lifting mechanism (shaft-driven models)

Clutch release mechanism (chain-driven models) Clutch cable (chain-driven models) External shift mechanism (a ll models) Dri ve sprocket (chai n-dri ven) Transmission and internal shin mechanism Dual-range subtransmission (shaft-driven LT-F230)

CHAPTER SIX FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS Carburetor operntion Carburetor service Throllie cable Choke cable (shaft·dri ven models)

131 Fuel shutoff valve Fuel tank Fuel pump (shaft·driven models) Exhaust system

CHAPTER SEVEN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Charging syste m (models so equipped) Voltage regula tor (shaft-driven models) Alternator (shaft-driven models) Magneto (chain-driven models) Capacitor discharge ign ition Igni tion coi l Staning system (models so equipped)

146 Starter Starter solenoid Light ing system Switches Odometer housing (sha ft -driven models)

F""

CHAPTER EIGHT FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING Front wheel Front hub

167 Siccring system Tires

CHAPTER NINE REAR AXLE , SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE ............................................................... 185 Rear wheel Rear axle (shaft-driven models) Rear axle and d riven sprocket (Chain-dri ven models) Dri ven sprocket (chain.drive n models) Rear axle inspection (all models) Final drive un it (shaft-<lriven models)

Drive sprocket and chain (chain-driven models) Rear axle bearing and oil seal replacemen t (shaft-driven models) Rear axle bearing housing (chain-driven models) Shock absorber (chain-dri ven models) Swing arm (chain-driven models)

CHAPTER TEN BRAKES ..•........•.........•..........•.. ..........•.....•..........................................................•......•......•• 202 Drum brakes From drum brakes Rear drum brake Drum brake inspection (rron t hub and rear) Disc brakes Front brake pad replacement Rear brake pad replacemen t Front master cylinder (drum and disc brake models) Rear master cylinder (disc brake models)

From caliper Rear caliper Front brake disc Rear brake disc Front brake hose replacement (drum and disc brake models) Rear brake hose replacemem I1Iceding the system Rear disc brake pedal

CHAPTER ELEVEN BODy ..... ...... ............ ...•............... ............. .... .... ...... ... .......... .............. .. ...... . ......... 232 Front fender Rear fender Front hand grip

Rear hand grip From and rear carriers (shaft-driven models)

SUPPLEMENT 1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION ......•..•.... .. ......•.. .....•.................. ..•. ........ 239 Periodic maintenance Tunc-up Piston, piston pin and piston rings Transmission and internal shift mechanism Carburetor service Capacitor discharge ignition (LT250S models) SWItCheS

Rear axle and driven sprocket (chain-driven models)

Swing aml and shock absorbers (cham-driven models) Rear caJtper Front fender

Rear fender

INDEX .. .... ........ .. .. ......... ... .. ... ........... .... ...... ... ............ ........................ ..... .... .... .... . 256 WIRING DIAGRAMS ...••......••....•.. ........ .... .. ....••........••. .. .........•..............................• 260

QUICK REFERENCE DATA ATV INFORMATION

MOOEL:,_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _YEAR :_ _ _ _ _ _ __ VIN NUMBER:_ _

_ _ __

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __

_ _ _ __

_ _ _ __

_ __

ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER:,_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ CARBURETOR SERIAL NUMBER OR 1.0. MARK :

TUNE.UP SPECIFICATIONS Valve clearance Intake Exhaust Compre•• lon pressure (at sea level) Standard Service limit (min.)

Spark plug standard type* Hotter Standard heat range Coi,,", Spark plug resiltor type'

0.03-0.08 mm (O.OOHl.OO3 In.) 0.08-0.13 mm (0.003..(1.005 In.)

1,2()().1 ,600 kPa (171-228 pal) 1,000 kPa (1 " 2 pal) Champion A8Ve NGK 07EA, NO X22E5-U, Champion A8ye NGK D8EA, NO X24ES·U

Honer

Champion RABye NGK DR7ES, NO X22ESR-U, Champion RA6YC NGK DR8EA, NO X24ESR-U 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028 In.) 1,350-1 ,450 rpm

Standard heat range Colder Spark plug gap Idle speed Pilot aerew Initial opening Shaft drl ....

Chain drive

2318 lurna out 2 turn a out

'Higher spark plug number. Indicate colder heat range for bolh NGK and NO.

REPLACEMENT BULBI Volta,e/Watta,e Haadllght Tallllghl

12\1 45/45W 12\1 5W

TIAE INFLATION PREIIUAE (COLD)-

Load capacity Shaftodrlv.n models Up to 70 kg (155 lb.)

70-120 kg (155-265 lb.)

Chalnodrlven models Up to 105 kg (230 lb.)

105-170 kg (230-375 lb.)

.P.

TI ... p .....u ...

Front tire.

Aea, tire.

p.i

.P.

20 35

2.8 5.0

20 20

2.8 2.8

18 25

2.6 3.6

18 25

2.6 3.6

p.i

"TIre Inflation pressure fOf' faclory equipped Ilres. Aftermarket tlrea may require dlffetent Infletlon pressure.

iX

DRIVE CHAIN REPLACEMENT NUMBERS Olado 010 52DV TakllSago RK520SM

84 links 84 links

LUBRICANT CAPACITIES

Item Fuel tank Shaft-driven Chaln·drlven Engine oil (shaft·driven) Oil and filler Overhaul Engine 011 (chaln·driven) Oil and fllter Overhaul Subtransmission Final drive unit

10 Ute,.. (HI U.S. gal./2.11mp. gal.)

9.5 liters (2.4 U.S. gal. /2.0 Imp. gal.)

1,700 cc (1.8 U.S. qt./ 1.5 Imp. qt.)

1,900 cc (2.0 U.S. qt./1.7 Imp. qt.)

1,600 cc (1.7 U.S. qt./ 1.4 Imp. qt.)

1.700 cc 1'.8 U.S. ql. /l.5 Imp. qt.)

240·270 cc (8.1·9.1 U.S. oz. /6.7-7.6 Imp. oz.)

165·175 cc (5.6·5.9 U.S. 0%. /4.6·4.9 Imp. oz.)

RECOMMENDED FUEL AND LUBRICATION Unleeded or low-Ieacl; 85·95 octane SAE10Wf40; API SE or SF Hypoid gear oil SAE 90; API GL·5 Hypold gear oil SAE 90; API GL·s DOT 3. DOT 4 or SAE J1703 SAE 90 gear oil or chain lubricant recommended for O·rlng chains

Fuel Engine oil Subtranlmllslon 011 Final clrive unit 011 Brake fluid Drive chain lube

WIND CHILL FACTORS Actual Thermometer Read!n&: ( 0 F) Eltimsted Wind Speed in MPH

50

40

30

20

10

0

-10

-20

-30

--40

-50

~

--40 --47 -70 -85 -9.

-104 -109 -113

-50

-

Equivalent Temperature (O f)

calm 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40

•

50 48 40 3.

32 30 28 27 2.

40 37 28 22 18 I.

13 11

10

30 27

"9 4 0 -2 -4 --6

Little Danler (for properly clothed person)

2.

"4 -5

-10

-15 -18 -20 -21

10

•

0 -5 -21

- 9 - 18 I -.36 25 -39 -29 -44 -33 -48 -35 -49 -37 -53

-10

-20

I -30

-15 1-26 33 -45

-53 -59 --63 --67 --69

Increasing Oanler

-3' -4. -58 -58 -72 --67 -82 -74 -88 -79 -94 -82 -98 -85 - 100 -116

-57 -aJ

• Danser from Ireezmg of u;poud flesh,

x

95

-99 -ll2 -110 -118 -125 -129 -132

Great Oanler

·Wind speeds greater than 40 mph have little addlhonel effect

- -'"

-124 - 133 -140 -145 -148

GENERAL TORQUI: 1"_C'PlCATIONI

'tom CyMncMf Mad cover bolt

Cyllndetn.ad 8 mm bolts 8 mm boltl Cylinder bale nut Ten,loner adjult bolt Alternator rotor nut Shaft·drlven Chaln·drlven Drive aprocket nut Front wheel hub nut Handlebar upper holder boItl Slearlnil ahaft Holder bolta Lower nut Shaft,drlven Chaln·driven St.. rlng knuckle Ann bolt Knuckle-te-wilhbone nut Knuckl..to-Iowar wllhbone clamping bolt Wlahbone-Ie-frlme boltl and nuta

"'"'

fl.·lb.

9·11

6.5·'

7-11 21·25 7·f1 a·a

5·8 5·a U-8

150·170 50-60

108·123 38-43.5

15·18

ao·loo

51·72

50-80 18·28

38·58 13·20

18·28

13·20

22·35 38·80

111·25 27·43

35·35 40-80

211·33 29·43

.....

32...

50·70

311·51

End locknut.

Locknuta Shaft·drlven Chaln·drlven Shock abaorber bolta

22-35

18·211

23·35 40-80 40·60

28·33 29-'"

Rear hub nut Wheel nut.

Axlll locknut Axle Inner nut Drive aprocket boltJi lind nuta 1985·1988 1987·t990 Rear axlll bearing houllng bolts 1985·1986 1987·1990 Reat brake dllc bolt.

Shock absorber bolta end nut.

Swing arm pivot boll and nut Subtranamlulon-to-final drive nuta

85-115 45-66 160·200 180.200

82,83 33-47 115·144 115-144

25·39 45·85

18-211 32-47

18·28 85·120 15·25 40-80 50-60

13·20 61.5·117 ,,.,8 29·44 36-58

24·31

17·23

TIe .... ,

2''''

1.110·1.130

DllCh~

1.140-1.180 1.170-1.190

1.200·1.220

Almaal dlactwlrv-d One-qua"M charged One·half charca-d

1.230·1.250 1.280·1.2110

Th,....quart.,. ctwlrged Fully ctwlrged

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULEPrior to .ach rid.

• In.pect tire. and rim. and check Inflallon pre•• ure • Check driva chain ten.lon, edJu.1 If nec....ry (model. to equipped) • Lubricate drive chain

of operation

• Lubricale conlrol cable.

Ev.ry I month. of Operation or 1,000 km or 100 mil••

• Ch.nge engln. oil and oil filter • Clean and oil air filter elem.nt (perlonn sooner if used In wet or dU.ty terr. In) • Check end adjust the carburetor • Cheek Ignition timing (COl Ignition) • Check cylinder head nut., cylinder nut. and exheu.t pip. nutl, tighten If nece.sary • Check e'eclrolyte 'evel in battery, add dl.tIIled waler if neces.ary (mode'. 10 .qulpped) • In.pect brake hOI.1 for cracked or .woll.n end., replace if nec•••• ry • Check brake fluid leva' In masle, cylinder(s), add fluid II necessary • In.pect fuel IInel for chafed, cr.ckad or .wollen end., replace If n.c.... ry • Check throttle operation, adJu.t If nec•••• ry • Clean and lubricate drlva chain (model. to .qulpped) • In'p.ct driva chain .lider (model ••0 equlpp.d) • AdJu.t drive chaIn t.n.lon • Check oil level in final drive unit, add 011 If nece.sary (model••0 aqulpped) • Check oil level In dual-ranga .ubtran.ml•• lon, add oil if necesaary (model••0 equipped) • Check and adJult clutch free play • Check and adju.t brake(l) • Check drum braka lining waar Indlcator(.)

• Check and adjust rea, braka pedal If" play • Lubricate r•• r brak. pedal and .hlft lever • Check Ure .nd wheel condition • In.pect front .ta.ring lor loo••ne•• • Check wheel bearing. for smooth operation • Check engine mounting bolt. for Ughlna ..

• Check chassl. bolt. for tlghtna •• • Check and adJu.t to.-In

Evary 12 month. of op.ration or 2,000 km or 1,200 mllas

• • • •

Inspect and clean .paril plug. regap II nece.aary In.pect valve cle.tance, adJu.t if nece ..ery Run a compresaion teat In.pect decompr.saion lavar Irea play, adJu.t If nece.sary (modals so equIpped) • inspecl cam chain len lion, adjust It n.ce ..ary • Change final driva 011 (moda'. 10 .qulpp.d) • Change dual-ranga lublranlmlilion oil (modal • • 0 equipped)

Ev.ry 5,000 Itm or 3,000 mil••

• Replace . paril plug

Evary 2 y ••,..

• R.place hydraulic brake lIuld • Replace fuel ho.e.

• Replace flexible brake ho.el

• Thi. Suzuki factory maintenance achedule ....ould be conllderad ea a guide to g.nera' maintenance end lubrication interv.i•. H.rder than nonnalule (tacing) and expolure to mud, weter, ..nd, high humidity, etc. will naturally dictate mora frequent att.nlion to mo.t malnlenance Items.

xu

CHAPTER ONE

GENERAL INFORMATION

This detailed, comprehensive manual covers the Suzuki LT230GE, LT-F23OG. LT230S and lT250S 4-whecl all-terrain vehicles. The expen text gives complete information on maintenance, rune-up. re-

pair and overhaul. Hundreds of photos and dmwings guide you through every step. The book includes all you need to know to keep your Suzuki running right.

A shop manual is a re ference. You want to be able to find information fast. As in all Clymer books, this one is designed with you in mind. All chapters 3rc thumb tabbed. Imponanl items are extensively indexed at the fcaT of the book. All the most frequent ly used specifications and capacities arc summarized on the Quick Reference Data pages al the front of the book.

Keep the book handy in your tool box. It will help you to better understand how the ATV runs, lower repair and maintenance costs and generally improve your satisfaclion with the bike.

Table I and Table 2 are at the end of this chapter.

MA NUA L ORGAN1ZATJON All dimensions and capacities are expressed in English units familiar to U.S. mechanics as wcll as in metric units. This chapler discusses equipment and tools useful both for preventive maintenance and troubleshooting.

Chapter Two provides methods and suggestions for quick and accurate diagnosis and repair of problems. Troubleshooting procedures discuss typical symptoms and logical methods to pinpoint the troublc.

Chapter Three explains all periodic lubrication and routine maintenance necessary to keep the ATV running well. Chapter Three also ineludes recommended tune-up procedures. eliminating the need to constantly consult chapters on the various assemblies.

Subsequent chapters describe specific systems such as the engine. clutch. transmission. fuel, exhaust, electrical. suspension and brakes. Each chapter provides disassembly. repair and assembly procedures in simple step-by-step fonn . If a repair is impractical for a home mechanic, it is so indicated.

It is usually faster and less expensive to take such repairs to a dealer or competent repair shop. Specifications concering a panicular system are included at the end of the appropriate chapter.

Some of the procedures in this manual specify special tools. In most cases, the tool is illustrated either in actual use or alone. Well equipped meehanics may find they can substitute similar tools already on hand or can fabricate their own.

The tenns NOTE. CAUT ION and WARNING have specific meanings in this manual. A NOTE provides additional infonnation to make a step or procedures easier or clearer. Disregarding a NOTE could cause inconvenience. but would not cause equipment damage or personal injury.

2

CHAPTER ONE A

CAUTION

emphasizes

areas

where

equi pment damage could occur. Disregarding a CAUTION CQuid cause permanent mechanical damage; however, personal injury is unlikely.

A WARNING emphasizes areas where personal injury or even death could result from negligence.

Mechanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS are /0 be taken seriously. In some cases, serious injury or death has resulted from disregarding sim ilar warnings.

Throughout this manual keep in mind 2

conventions. "Front" refers to the front of the ATV. The front of any component. such as the engine, is the end which faces toward the front of the bike. The "Ieft-" and "right-hand" sides refer to the position of the pans as viewed by a rider silting on the scat facing forward. For example, the throttle conlrol is on the right¡hand side and the clutch lever (models so equipped) is on the len-hand side. These rules arc simple. but even experienced mechanics occasionally become disoriented.

SERVICE HINTS Most of the service procedures covered are straightforward and can be performed by anyone reasona bly handy with tools. It is suggested, however. that you consider your own capabilities carefully before attempting any operation involving major disassembly of the engine.

Some operations. for example, require the use of a press. It would be wiser to have these performed by a shop equipped for such work, rather than trying to do the job yourself with makeshin equipment. Other procedures require precise measurements. Unless you have the skills and equipment required. it would be better to have a Qualified repai r shop make the measurements for you.

There are many items available thaI can be used on your hands before and after working on your ATV. A linle preparation prior to gelling Mall greased upM will help when cleaning up later.

Before starting out. work Vaseline. soap or a product such as Pro-Tek Invisible G love (Figure I) onto your forearm s, into your hands and under your fingernails and cuticles. This will make cleanup a lot easier.

For cleanup. use a waterless hand soap such as Sta-Lube and then finish up with powdered Boraxo and a fingernail brush.

Repairs go much faster and easier if the ATV is clean before you begin work. There are special cleaners, such as Gunk or Bel-Ray Degreaser (Figure 2), for washing the engine and related parts.

Just spray or brush on the cleaning solution, let it stand. then rinse it away wi th a garden hose. Avoid the use o f high pressure waler (coin-operated car washes) and do nOI poinl any water spray directly at the following parts or areas: a. Drive chain (models so equipped). b. Wheel hubs. c. Instrument cluster (models so equipped). d . Ignition switch and handlebar switches. e. Carburetor assembly. f. Master cylinders. g. Muffler outlet. h. Under the seat and the fuel tank.

Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning solvent as you remove them .

WARNING NCI'er use gasoline as a cleaning agell/.

It presems an eXlreme fire hazard. Be sure LO .... ,ork in a well-I'emilall'fi area .....hen IIsinge/eaning sob¡ent. Keep afire extinguisher. rated for gasoline fires, hand)' in any case.

Specia l tools are required for some repair procedures. These may be purchased from a dealer or motorcycle shop, re nted from a tool rental dealer or fabricated by a mechanic or machinist (often al a considerable savings).

Much of the labor charged for repairs made by mechanics is for the removal and disassembly of other parts to reach the defective unit. It is usually possible to perform the preliminary operations yourself and then take the defective unit in to the dealer for repair.

Once you have decided to tackle the job yo urself, read the entire section in this manual which penains to it, making sure you have identified the proper one. Study the illustrations and text until you have a good idea of what is involved in completing the job satisfactorily. If special tools or replacement pans are required, make

GENERAL INFORMATION

arrangements to get them before you start. It is frustrating and time-consuming to gct partly into a job and then be unable to complete it.

Simple wiring checks can be easily made al home, but knowledge of ele<:tronics is almost a necessi ty for performing teslS with complicated electronic testing gear.

During disassembly of parts keep a few general cautions In mind. Force is rarely needed 10 get things apart. If pans arc a tight fit, such as a bearing in a case, there is usually a tool designed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver to pry parts with machined surfaces such as crankcase halves.

Vou will mar the surfaces and end up with leaks.

Make diagrams (or take a Polaroid picture) wherever similar-appearing parts are found. For instance. crankcase bolts arc oOcn nOI the same length. You may think you can remember where everything came from, but mistakes are costly.

There is also the possibility you may be sidetracked and not return to work for days or even weeks. in which interval carefully 13id out parts may h3ve become disturbed.

Tag all similar internal parts for location and mark all mating partS for position. Record number and thickness of any shims as they are removed.

Small parts such as bolts can be idenlified by placing them in plastic sandwich bags. Seal and label them with masking tape.

Wiring should be tagged with masking tape and marked as each wire is removed. Even though most electrical connectors are color coded, mark them. Do not rely on memory alone.

PrOtect flOis hed surfaces from physical damage or cOrTosion. Keep gasoline and hydraulic brake fluid off painted surfaces.

Frozen or very tight bolts and screws can often be loosened by soaking with penetrating oil, such as WO-40 or Liquid Wrench, then sharply striking

3 the bolt head a few times with a hammer and punch (or screwdriver for screws). Avoid heat unless absolutely necessary, since it may melt, warp or remove the temper from many parts.

N<:, parts, except those assembled with a press fit , reqUIre unusual force during assembly. If a part is hard to remove or install, find out why before proceeding . . Cover all openings after removing parts to keep dirt. small tools, etc. from falling in.

When assembling 2 parts. start all fasteners then tighten evenly. .

Wiring connections and brake components should be kept clean and free of grease and oil.

When assembling partS, be sure all shims and washers are installed exactly as they came OUI. Whenever a rotating part butts against a stationary part. look for a shim or washer. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the condition of the old ones. A thin coat of oil on gaskets may help them seal effectively, but dan', use oil on gaskets if a service procedure specifies otherwise.

Heavy grease can be used to hold small partS in place if they tend to fall out during assemblv.

However, keep grease and oil away from electric~l and brake components.

High spots may be sanded off a piston with sandpaper, but fine emery cloth and oil will do a much more professional job.

Carbon can be removed from the heads, the piston crowns and the exhaust ports with a dull screwdriver. Do nOl scratch machined surfaces.

Wipe off the surface with a dean cloth when finished , The carburetor is best cleaned by disassembling it and soaking the parts in a commercial carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rubber parts in these cleaners. Never use wire to clean out jets and air passages; they are easily damaged. Use compressed air to blowout the carburetor after the float has been removed, A baby bottle makes a good measuring device for adding oil to the final drive case. Get one that is graduated in fluid ounces and cubic centimeters.

After it has been used for this purpose, do not let a small child drink out ofil as there will always be an oil residue in it.

Take your time and do the job right. Do not forget that a newly rebuilt engine must be broken in the same as a new one, Keep the rpm within the limits given in your Owner's manual when you get back on the road.

TO RQUE SPECIFICATIONS Torque specifications throughout this manual are given in Newton meters (N.m) and fOOl pounds

4

CHAPTER ONE

(ft.-lb.). Newlon mcters have been adopted in place of mClef kilograms (mkg) in accordance with the International Modernized Metric System. Tool manufacturers offer IOrque wrenches calibrated in Newlon meters and Sears has a Craftsman line calibrated in both values.

Existing torque wrenches calibrated in meier kilograms can be used by perfonning a simple conversion. All you have to do is move the decimal poin t one place to the right; for example, 4.7 mkg - 47 Nom. This conversion is accurate enough for mechanical work even though the exact mathematical conversion is ).5 mkg - 34,3 N-m.

Refer to Table 2 for standard torque specifications for various size scre~. bolts and nuts that ma y not be covered in the various chapters.

SAFET\' FIRST ProCessional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury. If you observe a few rules of common sense and safety. you can enjoy many hours servicing your own machine. If you ignore these rules you can hun yourself or damage the ATV. I. Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent.

2. Never smoke or use a torch in the \'icinity of flammable liquids such as cleaning solvent in open containers.

J. If welding or brazing is required on the machine. remove the fuel tank to a safe distance, at least 50 feet away.

4. Use the proper sized wrenches to 3\'0Id damage to nuts and injuf} 10 }oursclf.

S. When loosening a tight or stuck nut, think about what would happen if the wrench should slip. Be careful; protect yourself accordmgly.

6. Keep your work area clean and uncluttered.

7. Wear safety goggles during all operations involving drilling, grinding or Ihc use of a cold chisel.

8. Never use .....orn tools.

9. Keep a fire extinguisher handy and be sure it is rated for gasoline and electrical fires.

SP[CIA L TI PS Because of Ihe extreme demands placed on an ATV several points should be kepI in mind when performing service and repair. The following items are general suggestions thai ma y improve the overall life of the machine and help avoid costly failures.

I. Use a locking compound such as Loctite Lock N' Seal No. 2 11 4 (blue Locti\c) on bolts and nuts (used in high-stress arcas) even if Ihey arc secured

with lockwashers. This type of Loctite does not harden completely and allows easy removal of the boll or nUl. A screw or bolt lost from an engine cover or bearing retainer could easily cause serious and expensive damage before its loss is noticed.

CAUTION Whell appl)"lng LoeWe, use a 511101/ omOllnt. If tOO much is used, it can work liS 11"0)' down the threads and stick I)arts together not meom to be stuck.

Keep a tube of Loctite in your tool box; when used properly it is cheap insurance.

2. Usc a hammer-driven impact tool to remove stubborn bolts. panicularly engine cover screws.

These tools help prevent the rounding off of bolt heads and ensure a light installation.

3. When replacing missing or broken fasteners (bolts. nuts and screws). espccially on the engine or frame components. always use Suzuki replacement pans. They are specially hardened for each application. The wrong fastener could easily cause serious and expensive damage, not to mention rider injury.

4. When installing gaskets in the engine, always use Suzuki re placement gaskets withollt sealer, un less designated. These gaskets are designed to

5

GENERAL INFORMATION

swell when they come in contact with oil. Some of the gaskets (head gasket) have a sticky surface on each side that ensures a good seal. Gasket scaler will prevent the gaskets from swelling or stick ing as intended. which can result in oil leaks. These Suzuki

gaskets arc cut from material of the precise thickness needed. Inst.1llation ora 100 thick or \00 thin gasket in a cntical area could cause engine damage.

EXPENDABLE SU PPLIES Certain expendable supplies arc required during maintenance and repair work. These include grease, oil. gasket cement, wipmg rags and cleaning solvent. Ask your dealer for the special locking compounds. silicone lubricants, drive chain lube and other products (Figure 3) which make vehicle maintenance simpler and easier. Cleaning solvent or kerosene is available at some service stations or hardware stores.

PA RTS

R[ P LACE~ I ENT

Suzuki makes frequent changes during a model year some minor. some relatively major. When you order parts from the dealer or other parts distributor. always order by cngine and frame number. Write the numbers down and eany them with you. Compare new parts to old beforc purchasing them. If they arc not alike. have the parts manager explam the dincrcnee to you.

SERIAL NUMBERS You must ha ... e the model serial number and VIN number for registration purposes and", hen ordering replacement pans. The various serial numbers are located as follows: a. The frame serial number (Figure 4) ;s stamped on the left-hand side of the horizonlal frame member jusl forward of the cngine. h. Thc vehicle identification number (VIN) is located on the left-hand side of the \cnieal frame member (Figure S). c. The cnginc serial number is located on the front Icft.h!tnd comer of the crankcase (Figure 6 ). d. The carburetor identification number !s located on the raised pad all thc left-hand side of the carburetor body above the float bowl (Figure 7).

BASIC TOOLS Most of the procedures in this manual can be car¡ ried out with simple hand tools and test equipment

CHAPTER ONE

6 familiar to the home mechanic. Always use the COfrcciioois for the job at hand. Keep lools organized and clean. Store them in a 100\ chest with related tools organized together.

Quality tools are essential. The best arc con-

structed of high-strength alloy steel. These tools are light, easy 10 use and resistant \0 wear. Their working surface is devoid of sharp edges and the tool is carefully polished. They have an easy-to-c1ean finish and are comfortable to usc. Quality tools are a good investment.

When purchasing tools to pcrfonn the procedures co, ered in this manual, consider the 1001'S potential frequency of use. If a 1001 kit is just now being slIlned, consider purchasing a basic 1001 SCI (Figure 8) from a large tool supp! ieT. These sets are available in many tool combinations and oITer substantial savings when compared to individually purchased tools. As work experience grows and tasks become more complicated, specialized tools can be added.

Kccp your tools clean and in a tool box. Keep them organized with the sockets and related drives together and the open end and box wrenches together, etc. After using a tool, wipe oIT dirt and grease with a clean cloth and place the tool in its correct place.

/\

Correct way 10 grind btade

The screwdriver is a very basic tool. bUl if used improperly it will do more damage than good. The slot on a screw has a definitc dimcnsion and shape.

A scre'rt<driver must be selectcd to conform with that shape. Usc a small screwdriver for sma ll screws and a large one for large screws or the screw head will be damaged.

Two basic types of screwdriver are required to repair the bike-a common (flat blade) screwdriver and the Phillips screwdriver.

Screwdrivers are available in sets which often include an assortment of common and Phillips blades.

If you buy them individually, buy al least the following: a. Common screwdriver- 5fl6 )( 6 in. blade. b. Common screwdriver- 3/S )( 12 in. blade. c. Phillips screwdriver- size 2 tip. 6 in. blade.

Use screwdrivers only for driving screws. Never usc a screwdriver for prying or chiseling. Do nOI try to remove a Phillips or Allen head screw with a common screwdriver; you can damage the head so that the proper tool w;1I be unable to remove it.

!\

Correct taper and size

Blade too narrow

I\

Taper too steep

GENERAL INFORMATION

----

-<:::

1 or to tum bolts or nuts. Figure 10 shows several pliers useful in ATV repairs.

Each type of pliers has a specialized function. Gas pliers arc general purpose pliers and are used mainly for holding things and for bending. Vise Grips are used as pliers or to hold objects vel)' tight like a vise.

Needlenose pliers are uscd to hold or bend sTllall objects. Channel lock pliers can be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects: the jaws remain parallel to grip around objects such as pipe or tubing. There arc many more typc5 of pliers. The ones described here are most suitable for ATV repairs.

Box and Open-end \ \'renehes

Keep screwdrivers in the proper condition and they will last longer and perfonn beuer. Always keep the tip ofa common screwdriver in good condition. Figure 9 shows how to grind the tip to the proper shape if it becomes damaged. Note the symmetrical sides of the tip.

Pliers Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes.

Pliers arc useful for cutting. bending and crimping.

They should never be used to cut hardened objcrts

Open-end. box-end and combination wrenches (Figure 11 ) arc :lVailablc in a variery of types and sizes.

The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance between Ihc work areas. This size must match the size of the fastener head.

The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping. The box-end wrench is designed with either a 6- or 12-po int opening. For stubborn or damaged fasteners, the 6.point provides superior holding ability by contacting the fastener across a wider area at all six edges. For general usc, the 12-poinl works well. It allows the wrench to be removed and reinstalled without moving the handle over such a wide arc.

An open-end wrench is fast and works bcSl m areas with limited overhead access. It contacts the fastener at only two points. and is subject to slipping under heavy foree. or if the tool or fastener is worn .

A box-end wrench is preferred in most instances, especially when breaking a fastener loose and applying the fi nal tightness to a fastener.

The combination wrench has a box-end on one end and an open-end on the other. This combination makes it a vel)' convenient tool.

Adjustable (Cresce nt) Wrenches An adjustable wrench (also called crescent wrench) can be adjusted to fil nearly any nul or bolt head. Sec Figure 12. However, it can loosen and slip, causing damage to the nul and injury to your knuckles. Use an adjustable wrench only when other wrenches arc not avai lable.

Crescent wrenches come in sizes ranging from 4-18 in. overall. A 6 or 8 in. wrench is recommended as an all-purpose wrench.

8 ~ke l

CHAPTER ONE \Vrenches

This type is undoub tedly the faslest safest and most convenient 10 use. See Figure 13. Sockets which attach to a ratchet handle arc available with 6-point or 12 poin! openings and 1/4,3/ 8 and 3/4 inch drives. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole which mates with the ratchet handle.

@).,~."IO"'''' ==" .."'===="

.,

o

r::i:=

Torque Wrench

A torque wrench is used with a socket to measure how tightly a nut or bolt is installed. T hey come in a wide price range and with either 3/ 8 or 112 in. square drive. The drive size indicates the size of the square drive which mates with the socket. Purchase onc that measures 0- 140 Nom (0-1 ()() ft.-lb.).

ÂŽ

Impacl Drh'cr This tool might have been designed with the ATV in mind. See Figure 14. It makes removal of engine and clutch parts easy and eliminates damage to bolls and screw slots. T his 1001 is available at most large hardware, motorcycle or auto parts stores.

Cirdip Pliers Circlip pliers (sometimes referred to as snap-ring pliers) are necessary to remove the circlips used on the transmission shan assemblies. See Figure 15.

1¡lammers The correct hammer is necessary for AT V repairs. Use only a hammer with a face (or head) of rubber or plastic or the sort-faced type that is fi lled with buck shot. These are sometimes necessary in engine tear-downs. Nel'er use a metal-faced hammer o n the AT V as severe damage will result in most cases. You can always produce the same amount or force with a soft-faced ham mer.

Ignition Gauge This tool has both fla t and wire measUring gauges and is used 10 measure spark plug gap (Figure 16). This device is available at most auto or motorcycle supply stores.

Other Specia l Tools A few other special tools may be required fo r major service. These are described in the appropriate chaplers and are available either from a Suzuki dealer or other manufacturers as indicated.

@7

"\'

GENERAL INFORMATION

9 lights can be used outside in bright sunlight. Both types work on the bike; use according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Portable Tachometer

.

~

A p(mable tachometer is necessary for tuning.

See Figure 19. Ignition timing checks and carburetor adjustments must be performed at the specified idle speed. The beSt instrument for this purpose is one with a low range of 0·1 ,000 or 0·2,000 rpm and a high range of 0-4,000 rpm.

E:ttended range (0·6,()(X) or 0·8,000 rpm) instruments lack accuracy at lower speeds. The instrument should be capable of detecting changes of 25 rpm on the low range.

Compression Gauge A compression gauge measures the engine compression. The one shown in Figure 20 is the type used for the Suzuki ATV's covered in this manual. They are available from motorcycle or auto supply stores and mai l order outlets.

MECHANIC'S TIPS Remo"ing Frozen Nuts and

TUNE-UP AND T RO U8 LESHooT I NG TOOLS

Muilimeler or Voll-ohm Meter This instrument (Figure 17) is invaluable for electrical system troubleshooting and service. A few of ils functions may be duplicated by homemade test equipment, but for Ihe serious mechanic it is a mus!. lis uses are described in the applicable sections of the book.

S trobe T iming Light

This instrument is necessary for checking thc ignition timing. By !lashing a light at Ihe precise instant the spark plug fires, the position of the timing mark can be seen. Marks on Ihe staner clutch assembly line up with thc stationary mark on Ihc crankcase cover while the engine is running.

Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon bulb types 10 powerful xenon strobe lights. See Figure 18. Neon timing lights are difficult to see and must be used in dimly ht areas. Xenon strobe timing

Scre ~'s

When a fastener rusts and cannot be removed , several methods may be used to loosen it. First. apply penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench or WD·40 (available at any hardware or auto supply store). Apply it liberally and let it penetrate for 10- 15 minutes. Rap the fastener several times wilh a small hammer; do not hit it hard enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrating oil if necessary.

For frozen screws, appl y penetrating oil as described. then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap the lap of the screwdriver with a hammcr. This loosens Ihe rusl so the screw can be removed in the normal way. If the screw head is 100 chewed up to use a screwdriver. grip the head wi th Vise Grip pliers and twist the screw out.

Remed ying S tripped Threads Occasionally, threads are stripped though carelessness or im pact damage. Often thc threads can be cleaned up by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through threads. See Figure 21.

Remo"ing Broken Screws or BoilS Whcn the head breaks offa screw or bolt. several melhods are available for removing the remaining portion.

If a large ponioo of the remainder projects out, Iry gripping il with Vise Grips. If the projecting

CHAPTER ONE

10 portion is too small, fi le it 10 fit a wrench or cut a sial in it 10 fil a screwdriver. See Figure 22.

If the head breaks offftush, use a screw extractor.

ÂŽ

To do this, cenlcrpunch the remaining portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small hole in the screw and tap the Clttractor into the holc. Back the screw out with a wrench on the extractor. See Figure 23.

"OFF THE ROAD" RULES Areas sct aside by Ihe federal government, Slale or local agencies for off-road riding are con tinuing

10 disappear. The loss of many of these areas is usually due to the few who really don' , care and therefore ruin the sport of off-road fun for those

who do. Many areas arc closed off to protect wildlife habitat, vegetation and geOlogical structures. Do nOI enler into these areas as it can

result in an expensive citation and adds to the anti-oW-road vehicle sen timent that can result in further land closures. By following these basic rules, you and others will always have an area open for this type of recreational use.

,---~

Flied

Stotted

I. When riding, always observe the basic practice of good sportsmanship and recognize that other people will judge all off-road vehicle owners by yo ur actions.

2. Don'\ Jitter the trails or camping areas. Leave the area cleaner than it was before you came.

3. Don't pollule lakes. streams or the ocean.

@

4. Be careful not to damage living trees, shrubs or other natural terrain.

S. Respect other people's rights and property.

6. Help an)'one in distress.

SAfETY General Tips

7. Make yourself and yo ur vehicle available for assistance in any search and rescue panics.

8. Don'l harass other people using the same area as you are. Respect the rights of others enjoying the recrealion area.

9. Be sure to obey all federal , stale, provincial and other local rules regulating the operation of the ATV.

I. Read your owner's manual and know yOUT machine.

2. Check the throttle and brake controls before starting the engine.

3. Know how to make an emergency stop.

4. Know all state, federal and local laws conseming the ATV. Respect private property.

10. Inform public officials when using public lands.

11. Don't harass wildlife and stay out of areas posted for the protection and feeding of wildlife.

12. Keep your exhaust noise to a minimum.

13. When riding in the snow, stay away from carefully groomed snowmobile trails. Snowmobilers get pretty upset. and rightfully so, when ATV's spoil the trails that they have worked hard to make.

The Suzuki ATV is designed and manu/aclI/red for off-rOOd use ollly. It does nOI conform 10 Federal MOlor Vehicle Safety Standards and il is illegal /0 operate il on public s/reeIS,

NOTE

roads or highll'Qj's.

S. Never add fuel while anyone is smoking in the area or when the engine is running.

6. Never wear loose scarves, belts or boot laces that could catch on moving parts or tree limbs.

GENERAL INFORMATION

11

REMOVING BROKEN SCREWS AND BOLTS /

,.

x Center punch broken stud

~.

2. Drill hole In stud

0 Tr II,

•

3. Tap In screw exlraclor

7. Always wear protective clothing to protect your entire body. Figure 24 shows a well equipped off-road rider who is ready for almost any riding condition. Today's riding apparel is very stylish and you will be ready for action as well as being well protected.

8. Riding in the winter months requires a good set of clothes to keep your body dry and wann, otherwise your entire trip may be miserable. If you dress properly, moisture will evaporate from your body. If you become too hot and if your clothes trap the moisture, you will become cold. Figure 25 shows some recommended inner and outer layers of cold weather clothing. Even mild temperatures can be very uncomfortable and dangerous when combined with a strong wind or high-speed tmvcl. Always

C. ••Remove broken slud dress according to what the wind chill factor is. nOI the ambient temperature.

9. Never allow anyone to operate lhe ATV without proper instruction. This is for their bodily protection and to keep your machine from damage or destruction.

CAUTION

Do 110/ ''pop wheelies" and nm for allY distance with lire A TV, The oil capacity is re!mil'ely small rmd lire oil ",'ill drain Old of rhe oil pllmp area. causing a loss of oil pres.Hlre alld {:osr!y engine damage.

10. Use the "buddy system" for long trips, jU~1 in case you have a problem or run out of gas.

12

ÂŽ

CHAPTER ONE

Safety helmet

@

Outer Ie,.."

Safety helmet

Inner 'aye,.

Face mask

Chest, collarbone and shoulder protector

Wool shirt suit

Off¡road type gio'les

Leather

Glove Unef.

glo.....

Riding pants underwear

H. ....y Motorcycle boota

Wool socks

Motorcycle or snowmobile boots

WINTEA~~~c:ii~ CLOTHING 11. Never carry a passenger. The AT V is designed

7. Always steer with both hands.

10 carry only one person.

8. Be aware of the terrain and avoid operating the

12. Never 811cmpt to repair your machine with the engine running c;(cepl when necessary for cenain tune-up procedures.

13. Check all of the machine components and hardware frcqucntl}, espt:cially Ihe wheels and the

9. Do not panic if the throttle sticks. Tum the engi ne stop switch to the OFF position.

10. Do not speed through wooded areas. Hidden

sleering.

[4. Push the ATV onto a truck or trailer bed-never ride il on. Secure it firml y 10 the truck or trailer and if towing a trailer be sure thai the trailer lights operale properly.

OpenHing Tips l. Never operate the machine In crowded areas or steer toward persons.

2. A void dangcrous terrain.

3. Cross highways (where permitted) at a 90 degree angle ancr looking in both directions. Post traffic guards if crossing in groups.

4. Do not ride the vchicle on or near railroad tracks. The ATV engine and exhausl noise can dro\\'n OUI Ihe sound of an approaching lrain.

5. Keep the headlight free of dirt and never ride al night without the headlight on.

6. Do nOI nde the ATV without the seat/fender assembly in place.

ATV at excessive speed.

obstructions, hanging tree limbs, unseen ditches and even wild animals and hikers can cause injury and dam 1ge to the ATV. II. Do I 01 tai lgate. Rear end coll isions ca n cause injury and machine damage.

12. Do nol mix alcoholic beverages o r drugs with riding-ride straight.

13. Keep both fcct on the foot pegs. Do not permit yo ur fect to hang out to stabil ize the machine when making turns or in near-spill si tuations; broken limbs could result.

14. Check your fue l supply regularly. Do not travel farther than you r fuel supply will permit yo u 10 return.

WARNING Do IIOt use an open flame /0 check in tIJe tank. A serious explOSIOn is certain 10 result.

15. Check to make sure that the parking brake is ("ompletely released while riding. If left on, the rear brake shoes or pads will be da maged.

GENERAL INFORMATION

IJ

Table 1 CONVERSION FORMULAS Multiply:

Length Inches Inches Miles F...

Millimeter

Centimeter Kilometer Meter

Fluid volume U.S . quarts U.S. gallons U.S. ounces Imperial gallons Imperial quarts Lller.

LIter. liters Lllers Liters Milliliter.

MIlliliters Milliliter.

Torque Foot-poundS Foot-pounds Inch-pounds Newton-meters Newton-meters Meters-kIlograms Volume

Cubic inches Cubic centimeters Temperature Fahrenheit

Centigrade Weight Ounces Pounds Grams Kilograms Pressure Pounds per square inch Kilograms per square

By:

To get the e quivalent of:

25.4

Millimeter Centimeter Kilometer Meter Inches Inches Mile Mile

2.54 1.609 0.3048

0.03937 0.3937 0.6214

3.281 0.9463

0.001

Liters Liters Milliliters Liters Liters U.S. gallons U.S. quarts U.S. ounces Imperial gallons Imperial quarts U.S. ounces Cubic centimeters L1ters

1.3558 0.138255 0.11299 0.7375622 8.8507 7.2330139

Newton-meters Meters-kilograms Newton-meters Foot-pounds Inch¡pounds Foot-pounds

16.387064 0.0610237

Cubic centimeters Cubic Inches

(F - 32' ) )< 0.556 (C x l .8) + 32

Centigrade Fahrenheit

28.3495 0.4535924 0.035274 2.2046224

Grams Kilograms Ounces Pounds

0 .070307 14.223343

Kilograms per square centimeter Pounds per square Inch

0.1450 6.895

Pounds per square Inch Kllopascals

1.609344

Kilometers per h our Miles per hour

3.785 29.573529 4.54609 1.1365 0 .2641721 1.0566882 33.814023 0.22 0.8799 0.033814

' .0

centimeter Kllopasc.ls Pounds per square inch Speed Miles per hour Kilometers per hour

0.6213712

CHAPTER ONE

\4 Table 2 STANDARD TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Bolt dlamete' jmm)

,• ••

Conventiona l or "4" marked boltNom

I·' ,-4

ft.-lb.

0.7-1.5 1.5-3.0 3·, 7·11 .5 16-25.5 25.5-40 36-58

4-7 10-16

14

22·35 35·55 '0-80

I.

B()'130

58>94

130-190

94-137.5

Bolt diamet., (mml

Nom

ft .-lb.

•

I·' 2-4.5

8

1.5-3 3-6 8·12 18-28

10 12

7o-tOO

10 12

,.

"r mllrked bolt·

,•

1.I. 14

.CI-8O 110-160 170-250 200-280

S-8.S 13-20 29-43.5 50.5-72.5 79.5-115.5 123-181 144-202

'Number Is marked on top 01 Suzuki boll head. These are Suzuki numbers and do not appear on aftermarket botts.

CHAPTER TWO

TROUBLESHOOTING

Diagnosing mechanical problems is relatively simple if you use orderly procedures and keep a few basic principles in mind.

The troubleshooting procedures in this chapler analyze typical symptoms and show logical methods of isolating causes. These are not Ihe only methods. There may be several ways to sol ve a problem, but only a systematic, methodical approach can guarantee success.

Never assume anything. Do nOI overlook the obvious. If you arc riding along and the engine suddenly qui ts, check the easiest, most accessible problems first. Is there gasoline in the tank? Is the fuel shulOff valve in the ON position? Has the spark plug wire fallen off?

If nothing obvious turns up in a quick cheek, look a little further. Learning to recognize and describe symplOms will make repairs easier for you or a mechanic at the shop. Describe problems accurately and fully. Saying that Mit won't run" isn't the same as saying Mit quit at high speed and won't start Mor that it Msat in my garage for 3 months and then wouldn't start.

Galher as many symptoms together as possible to aid in diagnosis. NOle whether the engi ne lost power gradually or all at once. Remember Ihat the more complicated a machine is, the easier it is to troubleshoot because symptoms point to specific problems.

After the symptoms are defined, areas which could cause the problems are tested and analyzed.

Guessing at the cause of a problem may provide the solution, but it can easity lead to fruStralion, wasted time and a series of expensive, unnecessary parts replacements.

M

You do not need fancy equipment or complicated test gear to determine whether repairs can be atlempted at home. A few simple checks could save a large repair bill and time losl white the bike si ts in a dealer's service department. On Ihe other hand, be realistic and don't attempt repairs beyond your abilities. Service departments tend to charge a lot for putting together a disassembled engine Ihal may have been abused. Some dealers won't even take on such a job-so use common sense and don't get in over you r head.

OPERATING REQUIREMENTS An engine needs 3 basics to run properly: correct fuel-air mixture, compression and a spark al Ihe corrert lime. If one or more are missing. the engine just wan', run. The electrical system is the weakest link of Ihe 3 basics. More problems result from electrical breakdowns than from any o ther source.

Keep thai in mind before you begin tampering with carburelOr adjustments and the like.

If the ATV has been silting for any length of time and refuses to stan, check and clean Ihe spark plug and Ihen look \0 the gasoline delivery system.

This includes the fuel tank. fuel shutoff valve (and internal fuel strainer). fuel line to the carburetor and the fuel pump (models so equipped). Gasoline deposits may have formed and gummed up the carburetors jets and air passages. Gasoline tends to lose its potency after standing for long periods.

Condensation may contaminate the fuel with waler. Drain Ihe old fuel and try starting wilh a fresh tankful.

â&#x20AC;˘

16

CHAPTER TWO EMERGENCY TROUBLESHOOTING

When the ATV is difficult to start or wo n't SIan al all, it does not help to wcardown your leg on the kickstartcr or the bauel')' using the starter (models so equipped). Check for obvious problems even before getting out yo ur lools. Go down the following list step by slep. Do each one; you may be embarrassed to find your kill switch is stuck in

the OFF position, but that is better than wearing down the battery. If it still will not stan, refer to the appropriate troubleshooting procedure which follows in this chapter.

I. Is Ihcre fuel in the lank? Open Ihe filler cap (remove the seat ifneressary) and rock the vehicle.

Refer to Figure I or Figure 2. Listen for fuel sloshing around. iVAR/UNG Do nO! use an open flame 10 check in Ihe tank. A serious explosion is cerlam /0 resufl.

2. Is the fuel shutoff valve in the ON position?

3. O n models so equipped, make sure the fuel pump is operating correctly. Refer to the fuel pump test in Chapter Seven.

4. Make sure the kill switch (Figure 3) is no t stuck in the O FF position.

5. Is the spark plug wire on tight? Push it on and slightly ro tate it to clean the elcctrical connection between the plug and the connector.

6A. On shaft drive models, is the choke knob in the right position? The lever should be pulled up for a cold engine (Figure 4) and down for a wann engine.

68. On chain drive models. is the choke lever in the right position? T he lever should be moved up for a warm engine (Figure 5) and down for a cold engine.

I

ENG INE STARTING

on the engine cylinder head. Posi tion the sp..1rk plug so you can see the electrodes.

An engine that refuses to start or is difficult to start is very frustrating. More often than not, the problem is very minor and can be found with a simple and logical troubleshooting approach.

The following items show a beginning point from which 10 isolate engine starting problems.

iVARNING If il is nl'Cessary 10 hold rhe high l'Oflage lead, do so wilh an insu/aled pair of pliers. The high raftage generated by the ignition spark units could produce serious or fatal shocks.

Engine Fails to Start Perform the following spark test to determine if the ignition system is operating properly.

I. Remove the spark plug.

2. Connect the spark plug wire and connector to the spark plug and touch the spark plug's base to a good ground like the bare aluminum cooling fins

3. Crank the engine over with the kickstarter, recoil starter or starter. A fat blue spark should be e \'ident across the plug's electrodes.

4. If the spark is good. check for one or more of the following possible malfunctions: a. Obstructed fue l line. b. Leaking head gasket or vacuum leak. c, Low compression.

17

TROUBLES HOOTI NG

b. Broken kickstarter mechanism (models so equipped). c. Discharged banery or defective starter malar (models so equipped). .. d. Seized piston. e. Seized crankshaft bearings. f. Broken connecting rod. g. Locked.up lransmission (subtransmission on models so equipped) or clutch assembly.

ENGINE PE RFO RMANCE In the following checklist. il is assumed that the engine runs, but is not operating al peak perfonnance. This will serve as a starting point from which 10 isolate a performance malfunction.

The possible causes for each malfunction are listed in a logical sequence and in order of probability. Where ignition timing is mentioned as a problem. remember thai there is no method of adjusting the ignition timing. If ignition timing is incorrect; there is a faulty part(s) within the ignition system and that part must be replaced as described in Chapter $even.

d. Engine flooded with fuel. e. Choke nOI operating correctly. ( ThrOllle not operating correctly.

5. If spark is not good, check for one or more of the following: a. Weak ignition coil. b. Weak COl unit. c. Broken or shorted high tension lead to the spark plug. d. Loose eleetrical connections. e. Loose or broken ignition coil ground wire.

Engine Is Difficult to Sta rt Check for one or more of the following possible malfunctions: a. Fouled spark plug. b. Improperly adjusted choke. c. Contaminated fuel system . d. Improperly adjusted carburetor. e. Weak COl unit. r. IncotTe(:t type ignition coil. g. Poor compression.

Engine Will Not Cra nk Check for one or morc of the following possible malfunctions: a. Broken recoil starter mechanism (models so equipped).

Engine Will Not Sta rt Or Is Hard To Start a. Fuel tank empty. b. Fuel pump not operating properly (models so equipped). c. Obstructed fuel line, fuel shutoff valve or fuel filter. d . Stickmg float valve in carburetor. e. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted. f. Improper slarter valve (choke) operation. g. Improper throttle operation. h. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plug. l. Ignition timing incorrect. j. Broken or shorted ignition coil. k. Weak or faulty COl unit.

I. Improper valve liming. m. Clogged air filter element. n. Contaminated fuel. o. Engme flooded With fuel. p. Improper valve clearance.

Engine Will Not Id le a. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted (too lean or too rich). b. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plug. c. Leaking head gasket or vacuum leak. d. Ignition timing incorrect. c. Weak COl unil. ÂŁ. Improper valve timing. g. Obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve.

18

CHAPTER TWO

h. Low engine compression. i. Slow air cutoff valve faulty. j. Starter valve (choke) stuck in the open

position. k. Incorrect pilot screw adjustment.

I. Clogged slow jet in the carburetor. m. Clogged air fi lter element. n. Improper valve clearance. o. Valve(s) and valve(s) seat(s) require service.

E ngine Backfires a. Improper ignition timing. b. Carburetor improperly adjusted. c. Lean fuel mixture.

Engine M isfires DUring Acceleration a . Improper ignition timing. b. Lean fuel mixture.

Engine Misses al High Speed Fouled or improperly gapped spark plug.

Improper igni tion timing.

Improper main jet sel~tion in carburetor.

Clogged jets in the carburetor.

Weak ign ition coil. e. Weak or faulty CDI unit. g. Improper valve liming. h. Obstructed fuellioe or fuel shutoff valve.

a. h. c. d. c.

Engine Overheating

a. Obstructed cooling fins on the cylinder head and cylinder. b. Improper ignition tim ing. c. Improper spark plug heat range.

Smok y Exhaust and Engine Runs Roughl)'

a. b. c. d. e.

Carburetor mixture too rich.

Staner valve (choke) not operating correctly.

Water or other contaminants in fuel.

Oogged fuel line.

Oogged air filter element.

Engine Loses Power at Normal Ridinll Speed a. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted. b. Engine overheating. c. Improper ignition timing. d. Incorrectly gapped spark plug. e. Weak ignition coil. f. Weak CD! unit. g. Obstructed muffier. h. Dragging brake(s). i. Improper valve clearance.

Engine Lacks Acceleration a. b. c. d.

Carburetor mixture too lean .

Clogged fuel line.

Improper ignition timing.

Dragging brake(s).

ENG INE NOlSfS

I. Knocking or pinging during accelerationCaused by using a lower octane fue l than recom mended. May also be caused by poor fuel.

Pinging enn also be caused by a spark plug of the wrong heat range. Refe r to Spark Plug Selection in Chapter Three.

2. Slapping or raltling noises at low speed or during acceleration-May be caused by piston slap (excessive piston 10 cylinder wall clearance).

3. Knocking or rapping while deuleralingUsually caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.

4. Persistent knocking and vibration- Usually caused by excessive main bearing clearance.

S. Rapid on¡off squeal-Compression leak around cylinder head gasket or spark plug.

EXCESSIVE VIBRAT ION Usually Ihis is caused by loose engine mounting hardware. If not, it can be difficult to find without disassembling the engine.

FRONT SUSPENSI ON AND STEERING

Poor handling may be caused by improper tire pressure, a damaged or bent fram e or front steering components, a worn front sleering assembly, worn wheel bearings or dragging brakes.

BRA KE PROBLEMS A sticking drum brake may be caused by worn or weak return springs, dry pi vot cam bushings or improper adjustment.

Sticking disc brakes may be caused by a stuck piston(s) in a caliper assembly or warped disc(s).

Grabbing brakes may be caused by greasy linings or pads which must be replaced. Brake grab may also be due to an out-of-round drum or warped disc. Glazed linings or pads will cause loss of Slopping power.

CHAPTER THREE

LUBRICAnON, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

If this is your first experience with an ATV o r motorcycle, you should become acquainted with products that are available in auto or motorcycle pans and supply stores. Look into the tune-up tools and parts and check out the different lubricants such as mOlor oil, locking compounds and greases. Also check engine degreasers, like Gunk or Bel-Ray Degreaser. for cleaning your engine prior to working on it.

The more you gel involved in your ATV the more you will want to work on it. Start out by doing simple tune-up, lubrication and maintenance. Tackle more involved jobs as you gain experience.

The Suzuki ATV is a relatively simple machine but to gain the utmost in safety, performance and useful life from it, it is necessary to make periodic inspections and adjustments. It frequen tly happens that minor problems are found during such inspections that are simple and inexpensive to correct at the time, but which could lead to major problems if not corrected.

This chapter explains lubrication, maintenance and tune-up procedures required for all Suzuki LT230 models. Table I is a suggested factory maintenance schedule. Tables 1-7 are located at the end of this chapter.

3. Make sure the engine oil level is correct; add oil if necessary.

4. On shaft-driven models, check the oil level in the final drive unit and on models so equipped, check the oil level in the dual-range subtransmission.

5. Make sure the air filler is clean.

6. Check the operation of the clutch and adjust if necessary.

7. Check the throttle and the brake levers. Make sure they operate properly with no binding.

8A. On drum brake models, check the brake ftuid level in the reservoir; add fluid if necessary.

88. On disc brake models, check the brake ftuid level in both reservoirs; add fluid if necessary.

9. Inspect the front and rear suspension; make sure it has a good solid feel with no looseness.

10. On chain driven models, check the drive chain for wear and correct tension. Adjust if necessary.

I I. Check tire pressure. Refer to Table 1.

12. Check the exhaust system for damage.

13. Check the tightness of all fasteners, especially engine mounting hardware.

14. Make sure the headlight and taillight work.

PRErCHECKS

The services and intervals shown in Table I are recommended by the factory. Strict adherence to these recommendations will insure long service from your Suzuki ATV. However, if the vehicle is run in an area of high humidity. the lubrication and services must be done more frequently to

The following checks should be performed prior to the first ride of the day.

I. Inspect all fuel lines and fittings for wetness.

2. Make sure the fuel tank is full of fresh gasoline.

SERVICE lNTERV ALS

20

CHAPTER THREE

prevent possible rust damage. This is especially true if you have run the ATV through water (especially salt water), For convenience when maintaining your vehicle, most orthe services shown in Table 1 are described in this chapler. However, some procedures which require more than minor disassembly or adjustment are covered elsewhere in the appropriate chapter.

TIRES AND WHEELS Tire Pressure Tire pressure should be checked and adjusted to maintain the smoothness of the tire, good traction and handling and to gel the maximum life oul of the lire. A simple. accurate gauge (Figure I ) can be purchased for a few dollars and should be carried in your 1001 box in the low vehicle. The appropriate tire pressures arc shown in Table 2. iVARNING A/wo}'s mflate' both fear lires to lhe same presSlire. lithe ATV IS run with unequal air pressures It will cause the \'ehicle to pull toward one side and cauu> poer handlmg.

CAUTION Do not ol'erinjlate the stock tires as they will be permanently distorted and damaged. If ol'er/njlared, they will bulge Ollt similar to inflating an inner tube that is not within the constraints of a lire. If this happens, the tire will not return to its ort'gnal contour.

Tire Inspection

The tires take a lot of punishment due to the variety of lerrain they arc subject 10. Inspect them periodically for excessive wear, cuts, abrasions, etc.

If you find a nail or other object in the tire, mark its location with a light crayon prior to removing it, This will help locate Ihe hole for repair.

Suzuki recommends replacing any tire that has only 4 mm (3/ 16 in.) of tread left (Figure 2). Refer to Chapter fish! for tire changing and repair information, Rim Inspection

Frequently inspect the condition of the wheel rims, espedally Ihe oUler side, If the wheel has hit a tree or large rock, rim damage may be sufficient to cause an air leak or misalignment. Improper wheel alignment can cause severe vibration and result in an unsafe riding condition.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP Make sure thai the cotter pins are securely in place on all 4 wheels. If Ihey are lost and the castellated nut works loose, iI's good-bye wheel.

BAITERY (MODElS SO EQUIPPED) Bllttl'ry RemOVllVlnSllIlIlltion and

Electrolyte Le"el Che('k

The electrolyte level may be checked with the banery installed by removing the seat. The

Take reading at eye level

Zl

electrolyte level should be maintained between the 2 marks on the battery case (A, Figure 3), If the electrolyte level is low, it's a good idea to remove the banery from the ATV so it can be thoroughly

serviced and checked.

I. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the bolt (Figure 4) securing the banery holder and remove the holder.

4. Disconnect the bauery negative (-) and positive ( + ) leads from the battery (D, Figure 3), 5. Disconnect the battery vent tube from the battery (C. Figure 3).

6. Pull the battery up and out of its tray. Wipe off any of the highly corrosive residue that may have dripped from the ballery during removal.

CAUTION Be careful not to spill bauery electrolyte on painted surfaces. The liquid is highly corrosil'e and .....iII damage the finish. If it is spilled, wash it off immediately .....ith soapy water and thoroughly rinse wilh dean lI'aler.

Do nol suck

in too much eleetrolyte

Float m,ot ------' be tree

7. Remove the caps from the battery cells and add distilled water to correct the fluid level. Gently shake the battery for several minutes to mix the existing el«lrolyte with the new water. Never add electrolyte (acid) to corr«t the level.

8. After the fluid level has been corrected and the banery allowed to stand a few minutes, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell with a hydrometcr (Figure 5). Follow the manufacturer's instructions for reading the hydrometer.

9. After the battery has been refilled, recharged or replaced, install it by reversing Ihese removal steps.

CAUTION If the breather LUbe II'OS mOl"ro during bauery remol'af. be Sllre 10 rOute the breather tube so that any residue from it will nO! drall! OIltO any part of the A TV's frame. The tube musl be free of bends or Mists as any restriction may pressuri::e the bauery and dall/age it.

Testing Hydrometer testing is the best way to check banery condition. Usc a hydrometer with numbered groduations from 1.100 to 1.300 rather than one with just color-coded bands. To use the hydrometer, squeeze the rubber ball, insert the tip into the cell and release the pressure on the ball.

Draw enough electrolyte to float the weighted float inside the hydrometer. Note the number in line

•

22

CHAPTER THREE

with the surface of the electrolyte; this is the specific gravity for this cell. Squeeze the rubber ball

again and return the electrolyte to the celt from which it came.

The specific gravi ty of the electrolyte in each battery cell is an excellent indication or thaI cell's con-

dition. A fully charged cell will read 1.260-1.280, while a cell in good condition reads from 1.230- 1.260 and anything below 1.140 is discharged.

Specific gravity varies with temperature. For each 10' the electrolyte temperature exceeds 80" F (27" C), add 0.004 to readings indicated on the hydro meter. Subtract 0.004 for each 10" below 80' F (27' Cl,

If the cells lest in the poor rangc, the battery

and check the specific gravilY. It should be within the limits specified in Table 3. If it is, and remains stable for I hour, the bal1ery is considered charged.

4. Clean the banery terminals, surrounding case and tray and reinstall them in the ATV, reversing thc removal steps. Coal the bal1cry terminals with Vaseline or silicone spray to retard corrosion and decomposition of the terminals.

CAUTION Route Ihe breather tube so thaI it does not drain On/O any part of the ATV's frame. The mM must be free of bends or twists as any restriction may pressurize the hal/ery and damage it.

New Battery Instalhuion

requires rechargi ng. T he hydrometer is useful fo r

When replacing the old battery with a new one,

checking the progress of the charging operation.

be sure 10 charge it completely (specific gravity

Table 3 shows approximate state of charge.

1.260¡1.280) before installing it in the ATV. Failure to do so, or using the battery with a low electrolyte level, will permanently damage the new battery.

Charging WAR NING During fhe charging process. highly explosil'e hydrogen gas is released from fhe hauery. The bal/ery should be charged only in a well-I'emilated area and away from any open flames (including piiOf lights on home gas appliances). Do not allow any smoking in the area. Never check the charge of the hattery by arcing across the terminals; the r('Sulfing spark can ignite the h}'tirogen gas.

CAUTION Always remOI'e the battery from the I'ehicle before connecting the battery charger. Nel'er recharge a hauery in the ATVs frame due to the co"osil'f' mist thal is emilled during the charging process. If/his mist seu/es on Ihe frame and surrounding area it will corrode Ihe sutface. l. Con nect the positive (+) charger lead to the positive (+) battery term inal (or lead) and the negative H charger lead to the negative H banery terminal (or lead).

2. Remove all vent caps from the battery, set the charger at 12 volts and switch the charger on. (fthe output of the charger is variabk, it is ~st to select a low sening-l 1/2 10 2 amps.

CAUTION The eieclfoi),te must be maimained at the upper Jerel during the charging cycle: check and refill as necessary.

3. After the banery has been charged for about 8 hours, tum the charger off, disconnect the leads

PERIODIC LUBRICATION Dri" e Chain Cleaning and Lubrication On models so equipped. drive chain cleaning and lubrication are covered in Chapter Nine.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP Engine Oil Le"el Check Engine oil level is checked with the viewing port on the right.hand crankcase half next to the rear brake lever.

I. SIan the engine and lei it warm up approximately 2·3 minutes.

2. Shut olT the engine and let the oil seltle for al least I minute.

3. Place the ATV on level ground and check the oi\lcvel in the viewing pon (A, Figure 6).

4. The level should be between the 2 lines on the viewing port. If necessary, unscrew the oil filler cap (B, Figure 6) and add the recommended type o il to correct the level. Install the oil filler cap and tighten it securely.

Engine Oil and Filter Change Regular oil changes will contribute more to engine longevity than any other maintenance performed. The factory recommended oil and filter change interval is listed in Table I. This assumes that the vehicle is operated in moderate climates. If it is operated under dusty conditions, the oil will get din y more quickly and should be changed more frequentl y tpan recommended.

23

Use only a high quality detergent IOW/40 motor oil with an AP I classification ofSE or SF. The classification is stamped or printed on top of the can or on the label on plastic bottles ( Figure 7). Try 10 use the same brand of oi l at each oil change.

CAUTION Do not add (lilY friction reducing ad• diti\'es to the oil {IS they wil/ calise ellltch slippage. Also, do nOl lise an engine oil with gnlphile added.

To change the engine oil and filter you will need the following : a. Drain pan . b. Funnel. c. Can opener or pour spout. d. 17 mm wrench . c. Two quarts of oil. lllere are several ways to discard the old oil safely.

Some service stat ions and oil retailers will accept your used oil for recycling; some may even give you money for it. Never drain the oil onto the ground.

NOTE Nl!I'('r dispose of motor oil ill the 'rash. on the ground, or down a storm drain.

Many sen 'ice sro/iom accept IISed motor oil and wrule haulers pro\'ide curbside used malar oil COlleclioll. Do /lot combine ath" flllids wilh motor oil to be recycled. To locate a recycler. COlllaCI the American Petrolellm Illstitute (API). at wWH:recy'CIeoiLorg.

I. Place the ATVon level ground.

2. Set the parking brake, stan the engine and let it reach operating temperature.

3. Shut the engine orrand place a drain pan under it.

4. Remove the 17 mm ( 13/ 16 in.) drain plug that is accessible through the hole in the engine skid p late (Figure 8).

5. Remove the oi l filler cap; this will speed up the flow of oi l.

6. Let it drain for at least 15-20 minutes.

CAUTION Do 1/01 leI Ihe el/gine start alld nm wilholll oil in the crankcase. Make sllre the ignition .fln·teh and engine kill switch are ill the OFF position.

7. Tum bolh the ignilion switch and the engine kill switch to the OFF position and depending on model-pull on the recoil starter or use the kickstaner a couple oftimes 10 help drain any remaining oil.

8. To remove the oil filte r, perfonn the following: a. Remove the nulS (."igure 9) securing the filter cover on the left-hand crankcase cover and remove the filter cover and spring. b. Remove the filler and discard it.

CHAPTER THREE

24 c. Thoroughly clean OUI the filter receptacle in

the crankcase cover with a shop cloth and solvent and if necessary scrape out any oil sludge with a broad-tipped dull screwdriver. d. Make sure the D-ring scal (Figure 10) is in place in the filter receptacle in the crankcase. e. Install a new filter (Figure II ) into the

crankcase. [ Make sure the D-ring seal and the spring (Figure 12) are installed on the filter cover.

9. Install the drain plug and tighten to 20-25 Nom (14-18 n.-Ib.).

10. Insen a funne l into the oil fill hole and fill the engine with the correct weight and quantity oil.

The recommended type on all models is SAE JOW-40, API Service SE or SF. Capacity is: a. Shaft-driven models- I. S ql. for drain and fill; 2.0 qt. aner engine overhaul. b. Chain-dri ven models-1.7 Qt. for drain and fill ; 1.8 qt. after engine overhaul.

II. Screw in the oil fi ller cap securely.

12. If the engine has been rebuilt or disassembled, tum both the ignition switch and the engine kill switch to the OFF position and depending on model-pult on the recoil starter or use the kickstarter a couple of times to help distribute the oil throughout the engine.

IJ. Start the engine and let the engine run at moderate speed and check for leaks.

14. Tum the engine off and check for correct oil level: adjust as necessary.

â&#x20AC;˘@

Final Drive Unit (Shaft-driven Models)

Oil

le~d

checlc

The oil level should be checked at the intcrval indicated in Table I. The final drive unit should be cool. If the ATV has been run, allow it to cool down, then check the oil level. When checking or changing the final drive oil, do not allow any dirt or foreign matler to enter the case opening.

NOTE This procedure is shown with the rear wheels and the rear skid plate remow~d for clarity. It is 110t neussary 10 remm'e these ilems to perform this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Wipe the area around the oi l fill cap clean and unscrew the oil fiJI cap (A, Figure 13).

3. The oil level is correct if the oil is up to the lower edge or the fill cap hole. Jrthe oil level is low, add a good quality SAE 90 hypoid gear oil until the oil level is correct.

4. Install the oil fill cap.

Oil cllange Change oil at the interval listed in Table I or whenever the oil becomes contaminated.

To drain the oil you will need the following:

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

25

9. Remove the funnel and make sure the oil comes up to the bottom of the oil fill cap hole. Add additional oil if necessary.

10. Install the oil fill cap and tighlen securely.

I L Test ride the ATV and check for leaks. After the test ride recheck the oil level and adjust if necessary.

Dua l-range S ubtransmission (LT-FBOG Models) Oil

a. Drain pan. b. Funnel. c. Approximately 165-171 cc (5.6-5.8 oz.) of SAE 90 hypoid gear oil.

Discard old oi l in the same manner as outlined in Engine Oil and Filler Change in this chapter.

I. Ride the ATV until normal operating temperature is reached. Usually 15-20 minutes of stop-and-go riding is sufficient.

2. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

3. Place a drain pan under the drain bolt.

NOTE

This procedure is shown with 'he rear wheels and the rear skid plale remo\'ed for clarity. I I is 1101 necessary 10 remOl'1' these items 10 perform this procedure.

4. Remove the oil fill cap (A, Figure 13) and the drain bolt (BJ Figure 13).

5. lei the oil drain for at least 15¡20 minutes to ensure that most of the oil has drained Ollt.

6. Inspect the sealing washer on the drain bolt and the O-ring seal on the fill cap; replace if necessary.

7. Install the drain bolt and tighten securely.

8. Insert a funnel into the oil fill cap hole and add approximately 165-17 1 cc (S.6-5.8 oz.) of SAE 90 hypoid gear oil.

Jr~eJ

drck

The oil level should be checked at the interval indicated in Table l. The subtransmission unit should be cool. If the ATV has been run, allow illo cool down, then check the oil level. When checking or changing the subtransmission oil, do not allow any dirt or foreign matter to enter the case opening.

I. Place the A TV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Wipe the area around the oil check bolt clean and unscrew the oil level check bolt and washer (A. Figure 14).

3. The oil level is correct if the oil is up to the lower edge of the check bolt hole.

4. If the oil level is low, wipe the area around the oil fill cap clean and unscrew the oil fill cap and washer (8, Figure 14). Add a good quality of SAE 90 hypoid gear oil until oil starts to run out of the oil level check bolt hole.

S. Install the oil level check bolt and the oil fill cap and their respective washers.

Oil changr

The factory recommended oil change interval is listed in Table I or whenever the oil becomes contaminated.

To drain the oil you will need the following; a. Drain pan. b. Funnel. c. Approximately 240-270 cc (8.1-9.1 oz.) of SAE 90 hypoid gear oil.

Discard old oil in the same manner as outlined in Engine Oil and Filter Change in this chapter. \. Ride the ATV umil normal operating temperature is reached. Shift the subtransmission several times between low and high range. Usually 15-20 minutes of slop-and-go riding is sufficient.

2. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

3. Place a drain pan under the subtransmission.

4. Remove the oil level check bolt and washer (A, Figure 14), the oil fill cap and washer (8, Figure 14) and the drain bolt and washer (e, Figure 14).

S. Let the oil drain ro r at least 15-20 minutes to ensure thaI most of the oil has drained out.

26

CHAPTER THREE

6. Inspect the sealing washer on all bolts removed; replace if necessary.

7. Install the drain bolt and tighten to 18¡23 N-m ( 13-17 Il.-Ib.).

8. Insert a funnel into the oil fill cap hole and add approximately 240-270 cc (8. 1-9. 1 oz.) of SAE 90 hypoid gear oil.

9. Remove the funnel and make sure the oil comes up to the bottom of the oil level check hole. Add additional oil if necessary.

10. Install the oil level check bolt and washer and lighten to 6-10 N-m (4.5-10 ft.-lb.).

II . Install the oil fill cap and washer and tighten to 18-23 N-m (13-17 n .-Ib.), 12. Test ride the ATV and check for leaks. After the tCSI ride recheck the oil level and adjust if necessary.

Control Cables The control cables should be lubricated every 30 days of operation. They should also be inspected at this time for fraying and the cable sheath should be checked for chafing. The cables are relatively inexpensive and should be replaced when found to be faulty.

The control cables can be lubricated either with oil or with any of the popular cable lubricants and a cable lubricator. The first method requires more time and the complete lubrication of the entire cable is less certain.

Oil

m~'lIod

ÂŽ

NOTE

Place a shop cloth at the end 0/ the cable(s) 10 catch all excess lubricam that will flow OUI.

I. Disconnect the cables from the throule and both the front and rear brake leven;.

2. Make a cone of stiff paper and tape it to the end of the cable sheath (Figure 15).

J. Hold the cable upright and pour a small amount of light oil (SAE IOW/ 30) into the cone. Work the cable in and out of the sheath for several minutes to help the oil work its way down to the end of the cable.

J. Insert the nozzle of the lubricant can in the lubricator, press the button on the can and hold it down until the lubricant begins 10 flow out the other end of the cable.

4. Remove the lubricator, reconnect the cable(s) and adjust the cable(s) as described in this chapter.

NOTE

Lubricate the front brake lever, rear brake lever and rear brake pedal pivot points.

To

a~'oid

a mess, place a shop c/Olh at the end o/the cable 10 catch the oil as it runs out.

4. Remove the cone, reconnect the cable and adjust the cable(s) as described in this chapter.

Lubricator m~tllod 1. Disconnect the cables from the throttle and both front and the rear brake leven;.

2. Attach a lubricator following the manufacturer's instructions.

Miscella neous Lubrication Points

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE Drive Chain Adjustment (Chaln-drlven Mode)s) The drive chain should be checked al every fuel stop or at the begining of each riding day. Oean, lubricate and adjust the drive chain at the intervals indicated in Table t and as described in thiS chapter and Chapter Nine. A properly lubricated and adjusted drive chain will provide maximum service life and reliability.

27

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

recheck the adjustment; chains rarely wear or stretch evenly and, as a result. the free play will not remain constant over the entire chain.

6. If the chain cannot be adjusted within these limits, it is excessively worn and stretched and should be replaced as described in Chapter Nine.

Drive chain replacement numbers are listed in Ta ble 4. Always replace both sprockets when replacing the drive chain: never instali a new chain over worn sprockets.

WARNING Excess free play can resufl in chain breakage which could cause a serious accident.

7. Tigh ten the swing arm pinch bolts to 45-65 Nom (33-47 n. -lb_).

8. After the drive chain has been adjusted, the rear brake pedal free play must be adjusted as described in this chapter.

NOTE If the side plotes of the dril'e chain ore rery dirty and cm'ered with sand and grit. the chain should be remored and cleaned as described in Chapter Nine.

9. Thoroughly lubricate the drive chain with SAE 80-90 gear oil or a good grade of chain lubrican t (speci ficall y fo rmulated for O-ring chains), following the manufacturer's instructions.

Drh'e Chain S lider (Chain-driven Models) The correct amount of dri ve chain free play. when pushed up midwayan the lower chain run is 40-45 mm (1.6-1.8 in.). See Figure 16.

I. Place thc A TC on level ground anL .>el the parking brake.

2. Shift the transmission inlO NEUT RAL. 3. Remove the scat and rear fender as described in C hapter Eleven.

4. To adjust the tension, perform the following: a. Looscn the swing arm pinch bolts (A. fig ure 17) securing the axle holder. b. Inscn a drift or round bar into one of the holes (8, Figure 17) in the axle holder. c. To increase drive chain tension, pull the drift toward the rear of the vehicle rotating the lOp of the axle holder to the rear. To decrease drive chain tension , push the drift \Oward the front of the vehicle rotating the top of the axle holder toward the front. d. ROiate the axle holder until the correct amount of drive chain slack is obtai ned.

5. Release the parking brake and push the ATV forward to move the chain to another position and

Inspect the drive chain slider (f igure 18) for wear. There is no visible wear line or specified slider groove depth to indicate when the slider should be replaced.

If the drive chain has worn a groove halfway through the slider it should be replaced. To remove the slider the swi ng arm must be removed as described in Chapler Nine.

Front Drum Brake

Lining Inspe<"lion The front drum brakes are not equipped with wear indicators as is the rear brake. The only way to inspect the front brake linings is 10 remove the front wheel and brake drum and measure the thickness of the lining. This procedure is covered in Chapter Ten. Rear Drum Brake Lining Inspection

At the interval indicated in Table I, inspect the rear brake lining wear indicator, With the rear

â&#x20AC;˘

CHAPTER THREE

28 brake fully applied, the index line on the brake arm camshaft (A, Figure 19) should be within the range of the cast-in depression on the brake backing plate (B, Figure 19). If alignment is oul arrange, replace the rear brake shoes as described in Chapter Ten. Front Drum Brake Adjustment

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake. Block the rea r wheels so the vehicle will nOI roll in either direction.

2. Place wood block(s) under the frame to suppan the vehicle with both front wheels off the ground.

3. Remove the rubber plug (Figure 20) from the

wheel.

4. Insen a fiat-bladed screwdriver through the hole

in the wheel and into the notches of the adjuster (FIgure 21), Lift up on the screwdriver handle and rotate the adjuster down.

5. Continue to rotate the adjuster down while rotating the whee\. Rotate the adjuster until the whetl is locked in place and cannot rotate.

6. Now move the screwdriver handle in the opposite way and rotate the adjuster up, one notch at at time, until the wheel rotates freely without any brake shoe drag.

7. Perform Steps 3-6 for the other wheel.

CAUTION When rotating the wheels and applying the brakes, jfthere is a metal· to·metal sound, the brake lining may be worn down to the metal backing plale. Reftr to Chapter Ten and Inspect the brake linings. Replace as necessary.

.

'. t ®

8. Rotate both front wheels and apply the brakes several times.

9. Rotate each wheel and make sure the brakes are not dragging. Readjust if necessary.

10. Install the rubber plug into each wheel.

Rear Drum Brake Pedal A djustment The rear brak.e pedal adjus tment should be inspected at the interval indicated in Table I and adjusted if nea:ssary to maintain the proper amount of free play. Free play is the distance the pedal travels from the at·rest position to the applied position when the pedal is lightly de pressed by hand.

The brake pedal should travel about 20·30 mm (0.8- 1.2 in.) before the brake shoes come in contact with the brake drum, but must not be adjusted so closely that the brake shoes contact the brake drum with the pedal relaxed.

•

If adjustment is necessary, tum the lower adjustment nut (A, Figure 22) in or out to achieve the correct amount of free play.

NOTE Mak.e sure the cutout relief in the adjustment nut is properly seated on the brake arm pi~'Ol pm.

LUBRICA nON, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

29

Rear Drum Brake Le\"er Adjustment

NOTE

Adjust (he rear brake pedal fre£' play prior 10 adjusting the rear drum brake Jeref.

@

®

The rear brake lever adjustment should be inspected al the interval indicated in Table 1 and adjusted if necessary to maintain the proper amount of free play. Free play is the distance the lever travels from the at-rest position \0 the applied position when the lever is lightly pulled by hand toward the hand grip.

The brake lever should travel about 3-7 mm (0.1-0,3 in.) before the brake shoes come in contact with the brake drum, but must not be adjusted so closely that the brake shoes contacl lhe brake drum with the lever relaxed.

If adjustment is necessary. perform the following.

1. Loosen the locknut (A, Figure 23) and tum the adjuster (8, Figure 23) all the way in toward the hand grip. Hold onto the adjuster and tighten the locknut.

2. At the rear brake pivot arm. tum the upper adjustment nut (B, Figure 22) in or out 10 achieve the correct amount of free play.

NOTE Make sure the eutoUi relief in the

adjustment nut is properly seated on the brake arm P;W( pin.

3. Minor adjustment can be made at the hand lever adjuster. Tighten the locknut securely.

Disc Brakes

The hydraulic brake fluid in each disc brake master cylinder should be checked at the interval indicated in Table I . The brake pads should also be checked for wear at the same time. Bleeding the system. scrvicing the brake system componen ts and replacing the brake pads are covered in Chapter Ten .

Disc Brake Fluid Le"el

The hydraulic brake fluid in the reservoir should be up 10 the upper line. Refer to Figure 24 for the

front brake and Figure 25 for the rear. If necessary, correct the level by adding fresh brake fluid .

I. Clean any dirt from the area around the cover prior to removing the cover.

2. Remove the screws securing the cover and remove the cover and the diaphragm . Refer to

•

•

30

CHAPTER THREE

Figure 26 for the fronl master cylinder and Figure 27 for the rear master cylinder.

WARNING

USi' brake fluid marked DOT J Or DOT " (specified for disc brakes). Others may vaporize and cause brake failure. Do nOl intermix different brands or types of brake fluid as they may not be compatible. Do not intermix silicone based (DOT 5) brake fluid as it can cause brake componem damage leading /0 brake system failure.

e

!~ ,

â&#x20AC;˘

-

f

3. Reinstall the diaphragm and cover. Tighten the cover screws securely.

Disc Brake Lines

Disc Brake Pad Wear Inspect the brake pads for excessive or uneven wear or scoring of the disc. If the pads are worn to within 1.0 mm (0.4 in.) of the metal backing plate (FiKure 28) the pads must be replaced. If pad replacement is necessary, refer to Chapter Ten. NOTE

Always replace bOlh pads at the same time to maintain e.'en pressure on the brake disc.

Disc Brake Fluid C hanKe

Every time the reservoir cap is removed, a small amount of din and moisture enters the brake fluid system. The same thing happens if a leak occurs or any pan of the hydraulic brake system is loosened or disconnected. Din can clog the system and cause unnecessary wear. Water in the brake ftuid vaporizes at high temperature, impairing the hydraulic action and reducing the brake's stopping ability.

To maintain peak braking efficiency, change the brake fluid every year. To change brake ftuid,

---1"'~_

â&#x20AC;˘

----,-

It-'-

CAUTION Be careful when adding brake fluid. Do not spill it on paimed or plated surfaces as it will destroy thefinish. Wash offthe area immediately with soapy waler and thoroughly rinse il oifwilh clean water.

Check the brake lines between the master eylinder(s) and the brake caliper assemhly(ies). If there is any leakage, tighten the connections and bleed the brakes as described under Bleeding The System in Chapter Ten. I f tightening the connection does not stop the leak or if the brake line is obviously damaged, cracked or chafed, replace the brake line(s) and bleed the system as described in Chapter Ten.

~

",,,1---

1

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

31

in either direction to achieve the correct brake pedal height. Tighten the locknut.

5. Tum the stopper bolt in either direction until there is little or no clearance between the stopper bolt and the stopper lug. Tighten the locknut securely.

NOTE There is I/ofree play adjustment for the rear disc brakR.

Parki ng Bnke Adjustment Rear Disc Brake Apply the parking brake and push the ATV In either direction. The vehicle should not move. If it does move, adjust the parking brake as follows. \. Release the parking brake at the hand lever.

2. At the rear brake caliper assembly, loosen lhe locknut (A, Figure 30).

NOTE Loosen Ihl' Irxknlll slif/iciemly so Ihl' lock"U1 InU nOI touch thi' cailfJ('r moulI/ing bracke/ during Step J. If the locknut touches the mounting bracket it will gll'l' a false resistallcl' reading alld thi' adjustment will be incorrect.

® follow the Bleeding The System procedure in Chapter Ten. Continue adding new brake Ouid 10 the master cylinder(s) and bleed the fluid out at the caliper(s) until the brake fluid leaving the caliper(s) is clean and free of contaminants.

WARNING Use brake fluid marked DOT J or DOT 4 (specified/or disc brakes), Others may l'apori=e and cause brakp fat/ure. Do

not intermix different brands or t}'pes of brake fluid as they may not be compatible. Do 1101 intermix silicone based (DOT 5) brake flUid as it can

cause

brake

componem

damage

feading /0 brake system failure.

Rear Disc Brake Peda l Height Adjustment The correct brake pedal height is 5 mm (0.2 in.) below the top of the footrest.

I. Place the A TV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Make sure the brake pedal is in the at-rest position.

3. To change height position, loosen the locknut and tum the stopper bolt (A, Figure 29) away from the stopper lug..

4. At the rear master cylinder, loosen the locknut (8, Figure 29) and tum the push rod (C. Figure 29)

3. Screw the adjuster bolt (8, "-igu re 30) in untit resistance is felt, then stop. Tighten the locknut securely.

Clutch Mechanism Adjustment (Shaft-d rh·en l\'lode ls) The clutch mechanism free play should be checked at the interval indicated In Table I. ThIS adjustment penains anI) to the man:Jal clutch as the centrifugal clutch requires no adjustmenl. Since there is no clutch cable the mechanism is the o nly component requiring adjustment. This adjustment takes up slack due to clutch componen t wear.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

NOTE the engine oil is still in good conditio" (nol time for an oil andfilter change), drai" the engine oil Into a cI~a ,. sealable contai"er. If thi' engine oil IS kept clean it can be poured back into the engine after this procedure IS completed.

If

2. Drain the engine oil as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the bolts securing the footrest assembly (A, Figure 31) and remove the assembly.

4. Remove the bolts securing the clutch adjuster cover (8, Figure 3 1) and remo"'e the cover and gasket.

•

32

CHAPTER THREE

5. Loosen the locknut (A, Figure 32) and tum the release screw (0, Figure 32) clockwise 112 tum, then tum it counterclockwise untjl slight resistance is felL then SlOp. 6. From this point, tum the release screw clockwise 0..118 of a turn. Hold onto thc release screw and tighten the locknut.

NOTE Make sure the release screw does not mow' when tightening the locknul.

7. After adjustment is completed. check that the locknut is tight.

8. Install a new gasket on thc clutch adjuster cover and install Ihe cover. Tighten thc cover bolts securely.

9. Install thc footrest assembly and tighten the bolts 10 18-28 N-m (13-20 n.-lb.), 10. Refill Ihc engine with Ihe recommended type and quantity of cngine oil as described in this chapter. Ir the engine oil is reused, make sure the oil level is correct after refilling.

11. Test ride tl"e ATV and make sure the clutch is operating corre:tly. Readjust if necessary.

r:;;"\ 33

\i!::V

Clutch Adjusln .ent (Chain.-drhen Models) The clutch free play adjustment should be checked at the interval indicated in Table I. Clutch adjustment is limited 10 clutch lever free play. The cable adjustment takes up slack caused by cable stretching. There is no provision for adjusting the clutch mechanism.

The proper amount of free play is 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.) al the tip of the clutch lever before the clutch stans to engage.

If the proper amount of free play cannot be achieved by using this adjustment procedure, either the cable has stretched to the point that it needs to be replaced or the clutch friction discs are worn and need replacing. Refer to Chapter Five for these service procedures.

I. At the hand lever on the handlebar, perform the following: a. Slide back the rubber boot (A. Figure 33). b. Loosen the locknut (8, Figure 33) and screw the adjuster barrel (C, Figure 33) ail the way in toward the hand grip. c. Hold onto the adjuster barrel and tighten the locknut.

2. On the right-hand side of the engine at the clutch mechanism. loosen both locknuts (A. Figure 34) and tum the cable adjuster (8, Figure 34) in either direction until 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.) of free play is obtained at the tip of the hand lever on the

~

ÂŽ ' -_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _- '

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

JJ

handlebar. Hold on lo the cable adjuster and tighten both locknuts securely.

3. If necessary. repeal Step 1 for fine adjustmenl.

4. After adjustment is completed. check that the locknuts are lighl both on the hand lever and at the right-hand side of the engine.

5. Test ride the ATV and make sure the clutch is operating correctly. Readjust if necessary.

Throttle Lever Adjustment (Shaft-dri,'cn Moods) The throttle cable free play shou ld be cheded al the interval indicated in Table J. The throttle cable should have 0.5·1.0 mm (0.02-0.04 in .) of free play measured at the end of the cable adjuster (Figure 35) as the cable is moved in and Oul orlhc adjuster.

I. Remove the scat and the fron t fender as described in Chapler Eleven.

1. U nhook the vent lube (FIKure 36) from the air filter inlet case and move the venl tube out of the way.

3. Remove the boils securing the air fiiler inlet case (Figure 31) and remove the case.

4. Next to the carburetor, slide the rubber boot (A. Figure 38) off of the adjustcr on the throttle cable.

5. Loosen the locknut and tum the adjuster (B, Figure 38) in or out to obtain the correct amount of cable free play. Hold onto the adjustcr and tighten the locknut.

6. If the proper amount of frcc play cannot be achieved by using this adjustment procedure, the cable has stretched to the point that it needs to be replaced. Refer to Chapter Six for th is service procedure.

7. Slide Ihe rubber boot back onto the adjuster.

8. Check the throttle cable from grip to carburetor.

Make sure it is not kinked or chafed. Replace as necessary.

9. [nstall the air filt er inlet case and clip the vent tube to the inlet case.

10. Install the front fender and seat.

®

®

~B

Throltle Lever Adjustment (Cha in-dri\'en Models) The Ihrottle cable free play should be checked at the interval indicated in Table I. The throttle cable should have O.S-I.O mm (0.02-0.04 in.) of free play measured at the end of the cable adjuster (Figure 39) as the cable is moved in and out of the adjuster.

I. At the throttle lever. slide back the rubber boot (Figure 40).

2. Loosen the locknut (A. figu re 39) and tum the adjuster (8. figure 39) in either direction until the correct amount of free play is achieved.

3. Hold on to the adjuster and tighten the locknut.

CHAPTER THREE

34 4. If the proper amount of free play cannol be achieved by using this adjustment procedure. the cable has stretched to the point thai it needs to be replaced. Refer to Chapter Six for this service procedure.

S. Check the thro11le cable from grip to carburetor.

Make sure it is not kinked or chafed. Replace as

necessary.

Decompression Le\'cr Adj ust ment (Cha in-<iril'c n M odels) Cheek and adjust if necessary the decompression lever at the interval indicated in Ta ble I or after the valves have been adjusled.

1. Remove the seat and front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

2. Adjust the valves as described in this chapter.

3. Squeeze the decompression lever (Figure 4 1) on the handlebar.

ÂŽ

4. With the decompression lever squeezed, the lever on the cylinder cover should be touching the cylinder head cover with no clearance.

S. If the cable requires adjusting, refer to Figure 42 and perform the following: a. Loosen the locknut on each side of the decompression cable bracket. b. Adjust the locknuts until there is no clearance between the lever and the cylinder head cover. c. When the proper clearance is achieved, tighten both locknuts and recheck the clearance.

Air Filter Element Cleaning The air filter element should be removed and cleaned at the interval indicated in Table I and replaced whenever it is damaged or stans to deteriorate.

The air filter removes dust and abrasive panicles before the air enters the carburetor and engine.

Without the air filter, very fine panicles could enter into the engine and cause rapid wear of the piston rings, cylinder and bearings. They also might clog small passages in the carburetor. Never run the A TV without the element installed.

Proper air filter servicing can ensure long service from your engine.

1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat.

3. Remove the screw securing the air filter case cover (Figure 43) and remove the cover.

4. Remove the screw securing the air filter assembly (Figure 44) to the air box and remove the air filler assembly.

ÂŽ

1. Cable 2. Locknut 3. Lever 4. Cylinder head cover

LUBRICA nON, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

JS

5. Carefull y slide the foam element off the element holder (Figure 45), 6. Wipe OUI the interior of the air box with a shop rag dampened in cleaning solvent. Remove any foreign matter that may have passed through a broken dement.

7. Oean the element gently in cleaning solvent until all dirt is removed. Do not twist or wri ng the elemenl because it wi ll tear or damage lhe individual cells in the foam element. Thoroughly dry in a clean shop clOlh until all solvent residue is removed. Let it dry for about one hour.

CAUTION I nspect Ihf' elemen!;

if it

IS lorn or

broken in any area /I should be replaced. Do not run with a damaged etell/em as it may allow dirt /0 enter the enginl!.

@

8. Pour a small amount of clean SAE IOW/40 engine oil or special foam air fiiler oil onto the element and work it into the porous foam material.

Do not oversat urate the element as too much oil will restrict air flow. The element will be discolored by the oil and should have an even color indicating that the oil is distributed evenl y. Let it dry for another hour prior to installation. If installed too soon, the chemical carrier in the special foam air filter oil will be drawn into the engine and may cause damage.

9. Remove the plugs from the air box drain tubes (Figure 46) and drain out any residue that has collected in the air box. Reinstall the plugs and make sure the clamps are installed on each plug.

10. Inspect the seal around the perimeter of the cover; replace if necessary.

II. Assemble and install the element by reversing these steps.

Fuel S hutofr Vlih"e and Filter RemovliJ/ 1nstallalion (Shafl-driven Models) An individual fuel filter is auached to the end of each fuel line that draws fuel from the fuel tank.

The fucl filters trap particles in the fuel which might otherwise enter the carburetor. This could cause the Iloat needle 10 stay in the open position or clog one of the jets.

I. Remove the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

2. Disconnect the battery negative lead (Figure 47).

3. Siphon off all fuel from the fuel tank. T he fucl tank must be almost empty in order to perform this procedure.

4. Tum the fuel shutoff valve to the OFF position.

36

CHAPTER THREE

5. Remove the screws securing the fuel shutoff valve (Figure 48) to the [uel tank's mounting bracket.

6. Disconnect the fuel line going from the fuel shutoff valve to the carburetor. Insert a golf tce into the end of the fu el line \0 prevent fue l from draining out.

7. Carefully pull the fuel shuto ff valve and fuel lines away from the mounting bracket.

8. The ON fuel line is attached to the left-hand fitting on the fuel shutoff valve and the other end is attached to the upper lilling on the fu el tank.

9. The RESERVE fuel line is attached 10 the right-hand fitt ing on the fuel shutoff valve and the other end is attached to the lower fining on the fuel tank.

10. Move both damps up and off the fittings on the fuel lank.

I I. Withdraw both fuel lines and strainers from the finings on the fuel ta nk.

12. Remove the fuel shutoff valve and fuel lines from the chassis.

13. Remove the fuel fIlter from the end o f each fuel line. Clean it with a medium soft toothbrush and blowout with compressed air. Replace the fi lter if it is defective.

14. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

IS. Be sure to install the corn~(;t fuel line to the corre<:t fining on the fuel shutoff valve and to insen the cOlTCCt fuel line to the correct fiuing on the fue l tank.

16. Check for fue l leakage after installation is completed.

Fuel Shutoff Vah'e and Fi lter Removal! 1nSla Ilalion (Chain-driven Models)

The imegral fuel filter in the fuel shutoff valve removes particles in the fuel which might otherwise enter the carburetor. This could cause the fioat needle to sta y in the open position or clog one of the jets.

I. Tum the fuel shutoff valve to the OFF position and remove the fuel line from the valve.

NOTE

The fuel tank can either be remOl'ed or left in place. Drain all fuel from it in either case.

2. Inslail a longer piece of clean fuel line to the valve and place the loose end inlo a clean. sealable metal container. If the fuel is kep t clean, it can be reused.

3. Turn the fuel shutoff valve to the RES position and open the fuel filler cap. This will speed up the flow of fuel. Drain the tank completely.

4. Remove the screws (Figure 49) securing the fuel shutoff valve to the fuel tank and remove the valve and gasket.

S. After removing the valve, insert a corner of a clean shop rag into the opening in the tank to stop the dribbling of fuel onto the engine and frame.

6. Remove the fuel filters from the shutoff valve.

7. Clean the fI lters with a medium soft toothbrush and blowout with compressed ¡air. Replace both filters if either one is defective.

8. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

9. Install a new gasket between the valve and the tank.

LUBRICATION, MAlNTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

37

Crankcase Breather S ,'siem The ATV has a very basic crankcase breather system consisting of a couple of hoses going from the crankcase 10 the air filler case.

Make sure all hose damps (Figure 50) afC light and check all hoses for deterioration. Replace as necessary. Check that the hoses arc not dogged or crimped.

Wheel Bearings Thcre is no fac tory-recommended interval for c1caning and repacking the wheel bearings. They should be serviced whenever they are removed from the wheel hub, or whenever there is the likelihood of water contamination (especially salt water). The correct service procedures are covered in Chapter Eight and Chapter Nine.

Steering S)'stem and Front Suspension Inspection The steering system and front suspension should be checked at the interval indicated in Ta ble I. I. Visually inspect all components of the steering system. Pay close attention to the tie-rods and steering shaft, especially after a hard spill or collision. If any signs of damage are apparent, the steering components must be repaired as described in Chapter Eight.

2. Check the tightness of the handlebar holder bolts (Figure 51) securing the hand lebar.

3. Remove the rubber hub covers (models so equipped) and make sure the front axle nuts (Figur{' 52) are tight and that the cotter pins are in place.

CAUTION If any of the prel';ously men/ioned bo1ts and nuts are loose. refer 10 Chapter Eight for correct procedures and torque specijicQ(/O/ls.

10. Check fo r [uel leakage after installation is completed.

Fuel Line Inspei:(ion

Inspect the fuel linc from the fuel tank to the carburetor and the fuel lines from the fuel lank to the fuel shutoff valve on shart-driven models. If any are cracked or starting to deteriorate they must be replaced. Make sure the small hose clamps are in place and holding securely.

WARNING A damaged or deteriorated fuel line presents a rery dangerous fire hazard 10 both the rider and 'hi' \'thiefe if fuel should spill onto a hOI engine or exhaust pipe.

Front Wheel Toe-in Adjustment The front wheel toe-in alignment should be checked at the in terval indicated in Table I. I. Inflate the fro nt tires to the recommended tire pressure, refer to Table 2.

2. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parkmg brake. Block the rea: wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

3. Place wood block(s) under the frame so the front wheels are off the ground.

4. Turn the handlebar so the wheels are at the straight ahead posillon.

S. Hold a scribe (Figure 53), white cra~o n or white tire marker against the center of the front tire and spi n the wheel slowly. Make sure the line is visible

38

CHAPTER THREE

at both the front and rear of the tire. Repeat for the

other

li~.

NOTE

®

On chain-driven models, turn the ad·

juster (Figure 54)

al

rile base of IIU!

shock absorber so Ihe fro!!t shock air sorbt!r length (figure 55) is 290 111m (11.4 in).

6. Carefully measure the distance between the center line of both front tires al the front and renr as

shown in F1gure 56. The front dimension "A" should be Jes. than the rear dimension "8" by the dimension listed in Table S. This amoonl of tOO-in is necessary for proper steering. Too much tOO-in can cause excessive tire wear and hard srecring. Too little toe-in will allow the front end 10 wander.

7. Ifadjusilnent is necessary, loosen the adjustment sleeve locknuts and tum the sleeves as required to set the correct toe-in. Adjust thc toe so that the han-

dlebar is centered when the vehicle is ridden in a straight line on a Oat surface. If necessary, test ride the vehicle and repeat the toe adjustment as requi red to center the handlebar.

8. Tighten the adjustment sleeve locknuts securely.

Rear- Suspension C hec k I. On models equipped with a swing ann, perfonn the following: a. Place wood block(s) under the frame to suppon the ATV securely with the rea r wheels off the ground. b. Push hard on the rear wheels (sideways) to check for side play in the rear swing ann bearings. c. Remove the rubber plug (Figure 57) and make sure the swing ann pivot bolt nut is tight (Figure 58). d. Make sure the shock absorber bolts are tight (Figure 59) . The lower bolt is accessible

~

B

@A,

I

!

I I I

•

I

!

I

!

! ,,

i

~

! !

I

Rlghtangte

~I:O'I

.1-

A

D~

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

39

through the hole (Figure 60) in the right.hand side of the swing ann.

1. Remove the rubber hub covers (models so equipped) and make sure the rear axle nuts (Figure 6 t ) arc light and that the cotter pin is in place on each side.

NOTE

)011 may want to COl/sider replacing Ihe colter pillS with the re/lsable qllick.re-

moml wire pins Ihal slip ;/1 and Ollt.

These are m'(lilablefrom SlCllki dealen.

CAUTION /j (IllY of Ille pre\-'ious/y mentioned

bolts alld nuts are loose, refer to Chapler Nine for correct lightening procedures alld torque specijicolioll.f.

Nuts, Bolts a nd Other FaSlener1l Conslam vibmt10n can loosen many or the fasteners on the ATV, Check the lightness of all fasteners, especially those on:

a. Engine mounting hardware. b. c. d. e.

Engine crankcase covers.

Handlebar and fron l steering components.

Gearshiftlevcr.

Kickstarter lever (models so equi pped). f. Brake pedal and lever. g. Exhaust system.

ENG INE TUNE-U P A complete tune-up should be pcrfonned at the interval indicated in Table I if the ATV is used for normal riding. More frequent tune-ups may be required jf the ATV is ridden primarily in dusty areas or is meed.

The number of definitions of the tenn " tune-up" is probably equa l to the number of people defining it. Fo r the purposes of this book, a tune-up is general adjustmcnt and maintenance to ensure pea k engi ne perfommnce.

Ta ble 6 summarizes tune-up specifications.

The spark plug should be routinely replaced at every other tune-up or if the elC1:trodes show signs of erosion. Have new parts on hand before you begin.

The air filter element should be cleaned or replaced prior to doing the other tune-up procedures described in this chapter.

Because d ifferent systems in an engine interact. the procedures should be done in the following order: a. C lean o r replace the air filter element. b. Check and lighten if ne<:essary the cylinder head nuts, cyl inder nuts and exhaust pipe nuts. c. Check and adj ust the valve clearance. d. Adjust camshaft chain tension. c. Run a compression test.

CHAPTER THREE

40 f. Check or replace Ihe spark plug.

S. Adjust the carburetor idle speed.

To perform a tune-up on your Suzuki, you will need Ihe following tools and equipment: a. 18 mm spark plug wrench. b. Socket wrench and assorted sockets. c. Flat feeler gauge. d. Spark plug wire feeler gauge and gapper tool. c. Com pression gauge. r. Ignition liming light. g. Portable tachometer.

Cylinder Head Nuts.. Cylinder Nuts

and Exhaust S)'stem Bolts and Nuts The cylinder head nuts, cylinder nuts and exhaust system boils and nuts should be lightened at the interval indicated in Ta ble 1.

I. Place Ihe ATV on level ground and set the

parking brake. Bloc.k. Ihe rear wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seal, the fro nt fender and Ihe rear fender as described in Chapler Eleven.

3. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

4. Remove the spark plug (this will make it easier to rotate the engine).

5. Remove the cylinder head cover as described in Chapter Four.

6. In a crisscross pattern, loosen the 8 mm cylinder head nuts at the top of the cylinder head and the 6 mm nuts (A, Figure 62) on the left-hand side of the cylinder.

7. After the cylinder head nuts have been all loosened, first tighten the upper 8 mm nuts in a crisscross pallern and then the 6 mm nuts on the side of the cyli nde r to the torque specification listed in T a ble 7.

8. Loosen the cylinder base nuts (B, Figure 62) and then tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 7.

9. Install the cylinder head cover as described in Chapter Four. Leave the recoil starter assembly (shaft-driven models) or alternator cover (Chain-driven models) off for the valve adjustment procedure.

10. Tighten the nuts (Figure 63) securing the exhaust pipe to the cylinder head. Tighten the nuts to the torque specification listed in T able 7.

11. Tighten the bolts $C('uring the muffier assembly to the frame. Refer to Figure 64 for shaft-driven models or Figure 65 fo r chain-driven models. Tighten the bolts to the torque specification listed in Table 7.

ÂŽ

LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

41

Valloe Cleara nce Adjustment

Valve clearance adjustment must be made with the engine cool. at room temperature (below 95¡ F/ 35" C). The correct valve clearance for all models is listed in Table 6. The exhaust valve is located on the fronl of the engine and the intake valve is at the rear of the en&lnc.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. If not already removed, remove the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the spark plug (this will make it easier 10 rotate the engine).

4A. On shaft-driven models. perform the following: a. If nOi already removed, remove the bolts securing the recoil staner assembly (Figure 66)

and remove the assembly and gasket. b. Remove the tim ing hole cap located on t he altemalOr cover. c. Remove bolh valve adjuster caps (Figure 67). d. Using Inc nut (Figure 68) on the recoil starter cup, rotale Ihe engine unlil Ihe ~T~ liming mark aligns wilh the index mark on the crankcase (Figur" 69). The piston must be at top dead cenler (TDC) On Ihc compression stroke.

NOTE

A qhnder 01 TDC on liS compression stroke will hOI'e fret' play in both of its rocker arms, md,cating Ihat both the imake and exhaust mires are closed.

ÂŽ

-CT ----

1dciJI,---

e. With the engine liming mark on the -T,make sure both rocker arms have free play. If one or bolh rocker arms are tight. rotate the engine an additional 360' un til both rocker arms have frcc play.

4ll. On chain-driven models. perform Ihe following: a. Remove the bolts secunng Ihe gearshift lever assembly to Ihe engine and frame and remove the gearshift lever assembly. b. Remove the bolts securing the drive sprocket guard (A. Figure 70) and remove the guard. c. Remove the bolts securing Ihc alternator cover (Il, Figure 70) and remove the cover and gasket. Don't lose the locating dowel. d. Remove the both valve adjustment covers (Figure 71). e. Rotate the engine with the kickstaner until the -T- timing mark on Ihe alternator rotor aligns with the index mark on the crankcase

CHAPTER THREE

42 (Figure 72). The piston must be at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

NOTE A C)'linaer at TDC on its compression stroke will hal'ÂŁ' free play in both of ils

rocker arms. indicaling (hal bolh the intake and exhausl I'all't's afe closed.

f. With the engine liming mark on the "T,M make sure both rocker arms have free play. If one or both rocker arms are tight. rOlate the engi ne an additional 360' until both rocker arms have free play.

5. Check the clearance of both the mlake and exhaust valves by inserting a nat feeler gauge between the rocker ann pad and the camshaft lobe (Figure 73), When the clearance is correct, there will be a slight resistance on the feel er gauge when it is inserted and withdrawn.

6. To COrrttl the clearance. use a box wrench and back off the locknut. Screw the adjuster in or OUI so there is a shght resistance felt on the feeler gauge (Fiwure 74). Hold the adjuster to prevent it from turning further and tighten the locknut securely (Figure 75). Then recheck the clearance to make sure the adjuster did not slip when the locknut was tightened . Readjust if necessary.

7. Rotate the engine 360" and repeat Step 6 to make sure the adjustment is correct.

SA. Ir the cam chain tensioner is going to be adjusted. do not install the items removed ror this proced ure.

S8. Ir the cam chain lensioner is not going to be adjusted. install all items removed.

Camshart Chain Tensioner Adj ustment In time the camshaft chain and guides will wear and develop slack. This will cause engine noise and if neglccted too long will cause engine damage. The chai n tension should be adjusted at the interval listed in Table I or whenever it becomes noisy.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

NOTE Componerlls in Steps 2¡4 h'ere remored during the pre\'ious \'all'e clearance procedure. These sleps are mcluded in thIS procedure in case the \'0"'1' ad/us/men/ procedure was IIo t {H'rformed.

2. Remove the seat and rear fend er as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the spark plug (this will make it easier to rotate the engine).

4A. On shaft-driven models. perform the following: a. If not already removed. remove the bolts securi ng the recoil starter assembly (figure 66) and remove the assembly and gasket. b. Remove the timing hole cap located on the alternator cover. c. Remove both valve adjuster caps (figure 67). d. Using the nUl (figure 68) on the recoil staner cup. rotate the engine until the " T" liming mark aligns with the index mark on the cran kcase (Figure 69). The piston must be at

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

@

43

top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

NOTE A cylinder 01 TDC on irs compression stroke will hare free play .n both of irs roeki'r arms, indicating that both the ,make and exhaust I'all'es are closed.

e. With the engine liming mark on the ~T,~ make sure both rocker arms have free play. If one or both rocker arms arc light, rOlate the engine an addi tional 360' until both rocker arms have free play.

4R On chain¡driven models. perform the following:

a. Remove the boi lS securing the gearshift lever assembly \ 0 the engi ne and frame and remove the gearshifi lever assembly. b. Remove the bolts securing the drive sprocket guard (A, l-'igure 70) and remove the guard. c. Remove the bolts securing the allcmator cover (B, FigurE' 70) and remove the cover and gasket. Don't lose the locating dowel. d. Remove both valve adjustment covers (Figure 71). e. Rotate the engine with the kickstarter until the ~T~ timing mark on the alternator rotor aligns with the index mark on the crankcase (Figure 72). The piston must be at top dead cenler (TOC) on the compression stroke.

NOTE

A cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke will hal'e free play in both 0/ ils rocker arms, mdicatlng Ihat both the imake and exhaust I'all'es are closed. f. With the engine tim ing mark on the "T ," make sure both rocker arms have free play. If one or both rocker arms are tight , rotate the engine an additional 360' un til both rocker arm s have free play.

5. Loosen the cam chain tensioner locknut (A, Figure 76) a nd back OUI the adjust boll (8. Figure 76) one full lurn. The tensioner will automatically adjust to the correct tension. When this happens. you should be able to hear the internal pushrod move to take up slack.

6. Tighten the adjusl bolt 10 lock the pushrod and then tighten the locknut ~urely.

7. Install Ihe items removed sufficiently to start the engine a nd check for cam chain noise.

8. Slart the engine and listen for cam chain noise.

If the noise is still present after performing this adjustment procedure. perform the following:

â&#x20AC;˘

44 a. Remove the bolts (C, Figure 76) securing the tensioner assembly and remove the tensioner assembly. b. Loosen the locknut and the adjust bolt to allow the internal pushrod to move freely, c. Thoroughly clean the tcnsioner assembly in solvent and dry with compressed air. d. Thoroughly lubricate the pushrod with clean engine oil. Move the pushrod in and let the spring push it back out as shown in Figure 77 several limes. The pushrod must move freely with no binding or the tcnsioner assembly must be replaced. e. Push the pushrod in as far as possible and tighten the adjust bolt. r. Install the tensioner assembly and tighten the mounting bolts securely. g. Repeat Steps 2-7 o f this procedure.

9. Install all items removed.

Compression Test Check compression pressure al the interval indicated in Table I. Record the results and compare them at the next check interval. A running record will show trends in deterioration so that corrective action can be taken berore complete failure occurs to a given set of parts.

The results, when properly interpreted, can indicate general cylinder, piston ring and valve condition.

1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Warm the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature.

3. Fully open the throttle lever and move the choke lever (or knob) to the completely open position.

ÂŽ

CHAPTER THREE 4. Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the spark plug.

5. Connect a compression gauge to the cylinder fo llowing manufacturer's instructions.

6. Ha ve an assistant operate the recoil starter or kickstartcr several times.

NOTE 1/ you perform this operation by yourself. make sure the compression gauge does not leak around the spark plllg hole. This will gi~'e a/alse reading.

On recoil starter equipped models this is difficult as )'Ou must work on both sides o/the rehic/e at the same llme.

CAUTION Do flOI tIIrn the eflgifle Ol'er more than absolutely flocessary. When the spark plllg lead is discoflnected, the elÂŤlronic ignition will produce the highest I'oltage possible; Ihe ignition coil may Ql"erheat and be damaged.

7. Remove the compression gauge and record the reading.

The readings are listed in Table 6. If the reading is higher than normal. there may be a buildup of

LUBRICATION, MAI NTENANCE AND TUNE-UP carbon deposits in the combustion chamber or on the piston crown.

If a low reading (10% or more) is obtained. it indicates a leaking cylinder head gasket. valve or pislon ring trouble. If the gasket is okay, then determine which other component is faulty with a wet compression reading. Pour about one teaspoon of engine oil through the spark plug hole onto the lOp afthe pislon. Tum the engine over once 10 distribute the oil. then take another compression reading. If the compression increases significantly, the valves are good but the piston rings are defective. [f compression does nOI increase, the valves requi re servicing. A valve could be hanging open but nol burned, ora piece of carbon could bean a valve seat.

S park Plug Selection Spark plugs are available in various heat ranges, hotter or colder than the plugs originally installed at the factory.

Select a plug of the heat range designed fo r the loads and conditions under which the ATV will be run. Use of incorrect heat ranges can cause a siezed pislon, scored cylinder wall or damaged piston

crown.

NOTE

With ND and NGK plugs, higher plug numbers designate colder plugs: lo\\'(>r plug numbers designate holler plugs.

For example, a NGK DlEA plug is colder than a NGK D8EA plug. With Champion plugs. higher numbers designate hotter plugs and lo .....er numbers designate colder plugs.

In general. use a hot plug for low speeds and low temperatures. Use a cold plug for high speeds, high

4S

engine loads and high temperatures. The plug should operate hot enough 10 bum off unwanted deposits, but not so hot that it is damaged or causes preignition. A spark plug of the correct heat range will show a light tan color on the portion of the insulalOr within the cylinder after the plug has been in service.

The reach (length) of a plug is also important. A . . longer than normal plug could interfere with the piston, causing permanenl and severe damage; refer to Figure 78.

Refer to Ta ble 6 for Suzuki factory recommended spark plug heat ra nges.

Spa rk Plug Removal/ CleaninK I. Grasp the spark plug lead (Figure 79) as near the plug as possible and pull il off Ihe plug. If it is stuck 10 Ihe plug, twist it sligh tly 10 break il loose.

2. Blow away any dirt Ihal has accumulated in Ihe spark plug well.

CAUTION Th(> dirt could fall into the cylinder .....hen the plug is r(>mOl'ed, callSing serious engine damage.

3. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench.

NOTE If the plug is difficult to mno\'e, apply penetrating oil such as WD¡40 or Liquid Wrench around the base of the plug and lei it soak in abolll 10¡20 minliles.

4. Inspect the plug carefully. Look fo r a broken center porcelain, excessively eroded electrodes and excessive carbon or oil fouling. If present, replace Ihe plug. If deposi ls are light, the plug may be cleaned in solvent with a wire brush or cleaned in a special spark plug sandblast cleaner. Regap the plug as explained in the followi ng section.

Gapping and Insta liinK the Plug A spark plug should be carefully gapped 10 ensure a reliable, consistent spark. You must use a special spark plug gapping tool and a wire feeler gauge. \. Remove the new spark plugs from their boxes.

Do not screw on the small piCtt Ihat is loose in the box (Figure 80); it is not used.

2. Insert a win: feeler gauge between the center and side electrode of each plug (Figure 8 1). The correct gap is listed in Table 6. If the gap is correct, you will feel a slight drag as you pull the wire through.

Iftherc is no drag, or Ihe gauge won't pass through,

CHAPTER THREE

46 bend the side electrode with a gapping tool ( Figure 82) to gellhe proper gap.

3. Put a small drop of oil on the threads of the spark

plug.

4. Screw the spark plug in by hand until it seals.

Very little effort is required. If force is necessary, you have the plug crossthreaded; unscrew it and try again.

5. Use a spark plug wrench and tighten the plug an additional 1/4 to 112 tum after the gasket has made contact with the head. If you arc installing an old,

regappcd plug and reusing the old gasket, tighten only an additional 114 tum.

CAUTION Do /lot overtighten. This lI'ill only s(Juash the gasket and destroy its sealing ability.

@

6. Install the spark plug lead; make sure it is on tight.

Reading Spark Plugs

I/J)

Much information about engine and spark plug performance can be determined by careful examination of the spark plug. This infonnation is more valid after perfonning the following steps. \. Ride the ATV a short distance at full throttle in any gear.

2. Tum the ignition switch to the OFF position before closing the throttle and simultaneously shiflto NEUTRAL; coast and brake to a stop.

3. Remove the spark plug and examine it. Compare to Figure 83 . If the portion oflhe insulatorlhat goes inside the cylinder is white orbumed,the plug is 100 hot and should be replaced wilh a colder one.

A IOCKold plug will have sooty or oily deposits ranging in color from dark brown to black. Replace with a hotter plug and check for too-rich carburetion or evidence of oil blow-by at the pislOn rings.

If the plug has a light tan or gray colored deposit and no abnonnal gap wear or electrode erosion is evident. the plug and the engine are running properly.

If the plug exhibits a black insulator tip. a damp and oil film over the firing end and a carbon layer over the entire nose it is oil fouled. An oil fouled plug can be cleaned, but it is better to replace it.

Ignition Timing All models are equipped with a capacitor discharge ignition system (COl). This system uses no breaker points and ignition timing is fixed. Suzuk.i does not provide any service infonnation

, ))

,

I ',

.'

for checking ignition timing. If you fee l that any of the ignition system components are not operating propely, refer to Chapter Seven and perform the service procedures relating to the ignition system.

CarburcCOr Adjustment Before making this adjustment, the air fi lter must be clean and the engine must have adequate compression; see Compression Test in this chapter.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake. Block the rear wheels SO the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Conncct a portable tachometer following the manufacturer's instructions.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

47

SPARK PLUG CONDITION

..

NORMAL

QAP BRIDGED

Identified by light tan or gray deposita on the firing tip. o Can be cleaned.

/ .. ~ . '> - - .\ ~I '--

.--~

,I

~

OIL FOULED

• Identified by wet black deposits on Identified by deposit buildup the insulator ahell bore and electrodes. cloaing gap between electrodes.

Caused by elcelSlve oil entering • • Caused by oil or carbon louling. If deposits are not exceSSive, the plug combultlon Chamber through wom ringl and pistons, elcelSive clearance can be cleaned. between valve guides and stems, or worn or loo.e bearingl. Can be cleaned. It engine il not repaired , use a honer plug .

..

CARBON FOULED • Identified by black, dry Ilully carbon deposita on insulator tip., expoled I heUlurfacea and electrode • .

• Caused by too cold a plug, weak

ignition, dirty air claaner, too rich a fual mixture or exce.,lve IdUng. Can be clsaned.

LEAD FOULED • Identified by dark gray, black, yellow or tan deposits or a fu.ed WORN glazed coating on the insulator tip.

• Identified by severely erOded 0 o Caused by highly leaded gasoline. worn electrode • .

Can be cleaned. o Caused by normal wear. Should be replaced .

OVERHEATING Identified by a white or light gray insulator with small black or gray FUSED SPOT DEPOSIT brown spots and with bluish-burnt • Identified by melted Of spotty appearance of electrodes. deposits ,. .ambling bubble. or • Caused by engine ovemeating, blisters. wrong type of fuel , loose spark plugs.

• Caused by sudden too hot a plug or incorrect igntion acceleralion. liming. Replace the plug.

Can be cleaned. o

PREIGNITION Identified by melted electrodes and poss ibly blistered Insulator. Metallic depolltl on insulator indicate engine damage. o Caused by wrong type of fuel , in· cOl1'ect igntion tim ing or advance, too hot a plug, burned lIalves or engine ovem. . tlng. Replece the plug.

48

CHAPTER THREE

3. Stan the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature. Shut the engine off.

CAUTION The pilot screw can be damaged if;/ is lightened 100 hard against the seal.

4. For prelimi nary adjustment. carefull y tum the pilot adjust screw (A, FiKure 84) in until it lightly seats, then SLOp. From this position, back o ut the pilot screw the number ortums indicated in Table 6.

5. Stan the engine and tum the idle adjust screw (B, Figure 84) to achieve the idle speed listed in Table 6.

6. Open and close the throttle a couple of time s~ check for variation in idle speed. Readjust if

WARNING

Wil h Ihe engine idling, mor(' Ihe handlebar from side 10 side. If idle speed increases during Ihis moremenl, the throllie cable needs adjusting or may be incorrectly routed through the frame. Correct this problem immediately. Do not ride the vehicle in this unsafe condition.

necessary.

7. Turn the pi lot adjust screw in or out within 1/2 tum from the sening in Step 4 to achieve the highest idle speed.

8. Tum the idle adjust screw (B, Figure 84) \0 ach ieve the idle speed listed in Table 6.

9. Tum the engine off and disconnect the portable tachometer.

T.ble 1 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE-

Prior to e.ch ride

• In.pect tire. and rim. and check Inliition pr••• ur.

• Check drtYe chain tenllon, .dJu.t If neeellery (model. so equipped) • Lubric.te dri.... ch.in

Every 30 d.y.

0' operation Every. month. of oper.llon, or 1,000 km or 100 mile.

• Lubric.te control c.ble.

• Ch.nge engine 011 .nd 011 lilter • Clean and oil .Ir filter element (perform .ooner 11 u.ed in wet or du.ty terr. in) • Check .nd .dju.t the c.rburetor • Check ignition timing (COl ignition) • Check cylinder he.d nut., cylinder nut•• nd exh.u.t pipe nut., tighten if nec•••• ry • Check .Iectrolyte le ... el In battery, add dl.tIIled water if nece ... ry (model••0 equipped) • Inlpect br.ke ho.e. fO( cr.ck.d or .wollen endl, repl.ce if nec•••• ry • Check brake fluid le....1 In m •• t.r cyllnder(.), .dd fluid if n.c•••• ry • Inspect fuel lines fO( ch.fed, cracked or .wollen .nds, repl.c. If necel ••ry • Check throttle oper.tion, .dJu.t it nec .... ry • CI•• n .nd lubric.te dri.... ch.in (mod.11 so equipped) • In.pect dri.... ch.in .Iid.r (model••0 equipped) • Adju.t dri...e ch.in ten.lon • Check oil le...el In lin.1 drive unit, add oli 11 nece•• ary (models so .qulpped) (continued)

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

49

Table 1 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE- (continued)

Every. montha of operation, or 1,000 km or 800 mil •• (continued)

• Check oil 'e"el In dua'·range lubtransmi ••ion, add oil if n.c •••• ry (models 10 equipped)

• Check and .dJuat clutch tr •• play • Check and adjust brake(a) • Check drum brake lining we.r Indicator(s)

..

• Check and adjust rear brake pedal free play • Lubricate re.r brake pedal and shUt 'e"er • Check tire and wh ••1 condition • Inspect front It•• tlng for loo••ne••

• Check wheel bearing' for smooth operation • Check engine mounting batt, tor tightness • Check ch•• ,ia bolta for tlghln ...

• Check and adjust loe·ln

Every 12 month. of operation, or 2,000 km or 1,200 miles

E.,err 5,000 km or

• Inspect and clean .pan.: plug, regap If nec•• sary • In.pect valv. cl.ar.nce, .d/ult If n.c•••• ry • Run. comprel.lon t.1t Inspect decompresllon lever free play, adjust If neceslary (model ••0 equipped) Insp.ct cam chain tenllon, adjult If nac.llary • Ch.nge final drive ott (model. '0 equipped) • Ch.nge du.l-range lubtranlmlulon olt (mod.l • • 0 equipped) Replace span.: plug

3,000 mil••

Replace hydraulic brake fluid

E.,e". 2 y •• ,.

Ev.,., 4 ,..a ...

Replace fuel hoaes • Replace flexible brake ho•••

Thll Suzuki factory maintenance sch.dul• • hould b. conlldered al a guide to gen.r.1 m.lntenance .nd lubrlc.tlon Int.",.I •. Harder Ih.n normal u.. (r.clng) and expolur. to mud, w.ter, .and, high humidity, etc. will natur.tty dictate more frequent attention to mOlt malntenanc. Iteml.

Tabl. 2 TIRE INFLATION PREIIU"E (COLD)" Load capacity

Ihaft-ctrivan modals Up to 70 kg (155 lb.)

70-120 kg (155-265 lb.)

Chaln·driven modal.

Up to 105 kg (230 lb.)

105-170 kg (230-375 lb.)

p.'

•••

Tire p,. •• u,.

R•• r tl,..

Front Ur••

2.'

20 35

,.

25

p.'

•••

5.0 Front tlra.

2.'

3.'

2.'

20 202.6

,.

Ra.r tire.

253. 6

• TIre Innatlon PfWI.ure for orIglnlll equipment lires. Anenn.rtc:et tires may

~ulre

Table 3 BATTERY STATE OF CHARGI. Spaclflc gravity 1.110-1 .130 1.140-1 .160 1.170-1 .190 1.200-1 .220 1.230-1 .250 1.260-1 .280

Dilcharged AlmOlt dllchlrged Ona qu."er charged One half charg.d Thre. qu.rt.rl charged Fully charged

2.' different Inflation pre"ure_

CHAPTER THREE

50 Table 4 DRIVE CHAIN REPLACEMENT NU ...BERS Dledo DID S20V

84 links

Tahsago RK520SM

U links

Tabl. 5 FRONT SUSPENSION TOE·IN DIMENSION Modal Shaft·driven Chain-dri'len

15·21 mm (0.8-0.8 In.) 11·19 mm (O •• -D.7 In.)

Tabla. TUNE·UP SPECIFICATIONS

Velve cle.rance 0.03-0.08 mm (0.00'-0.003 In.)

Intake

ExhauII Compre••ion pressure Cal lea leve')

0.08·0.13 mm (0.003·0.005 in.)

1,200-1,600 kPa (171 -228 pal) 1,000 kPa (142 pail

Stendard Service limit (min.)

Spark plug ,Itandard type).

Champion AaYC

Hotter Standard he.t range Colder

NGK 07EA, NO X22ES-U, Champion AaYe NGK D8EA, NO X24ES-U

Spa" plug (r.I'ator type'" Champion RA8YC NGK DR7ES, NO X22ESR·U, Champion RA6YC NGK ORSEA, NO X24ESR·U 0.6·0.7 mm (0.024·0.028 In.) 1,350·1,450 rpm

Hotter Siandard heat range Colder

Spark plug gap Idle IIpeed Pilot screw initial opening Shaft·driven Chain·dmen

2 3{8 turns out 2 turns out

• Higher spartl plug numbers Indicate colder he.t range for both NGK and NO.

T.ble 7 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

.....

ft.·lb •

Cylinder head nuts

8mm .mm Cylinder base nuts Exhaust pipe nuts Muffler mounting bolts

7", 21 · 25 7·11 '·12 18·28

5-'

15·18

5-'

8-'

13·20

CHAPTER FOUR

II ENGINE

All models covered in Ihis book are equipped with an air-cooled, 4-Slroke, si ngle cylinder engine with a single overhead ca mshaft. The crankshaft is supponed by 2 main ball bearings in a venically splil cran kcase.

The camshaft is chain-driven from the sprocket on the left-hand side of the crankshaft and operates rocker arms that are individually adjustable.

Engine lubrication is by wei sump with the oil pump located on the right-hand side of the engine next 10 the clutch. The oil pump delivers oil under pressure throughout the engine and is driven by a gear on the crankshaft.

This chapler contains information for removal, disassembly, inspection, serv ice, reassembly and installation of the engine. Although the clutch and transmission are located within the engine. mey are covered in Chapter Five to simplify this material.

Ta ble I provides complete specifications fo r the engine and Ta ble 2 lists all of the engine torque specifications. Table 1 and Table 2 are located at the end of thi s chapter.

Before begining work, "Head Chapler One of this book. You will do a better job with this infonnation fresh in your mind.

Throughout the tex t there is frequent men tion of the right-hand and left-hand sides of the engine.

This refers to the engine as it sits in the ATV's frame, not as it sits on your workbench. " Right-and ~ I eft- hand - refers to a rider sitting on the seal fac ing forward.

ENG INE PRINCIPLES Figure I e"plains how the engine works. This will be helpful when troubleshooting or repairing the engine.

ENG INE COOLI NG Cooling is provided by air passing over the cool ing fins on the engine cyli nder head and cylinder. It is very important to keep these fin s free from buildup of dirt, oil, grease and other foreign matter. Brush out the fi ns with a whisk broom or small stiff paint brush.

CAUTION Remember. these fi ns are thin in order 10 dissipate heat and may be damaged If Simek 100 hard.

SERVICING ENG INE IN FRAME The following components can be serviced wh ile the engine is moun ted in the frame (the ATV's frame is a great holdi ng fixture for breaking loose stubborn bolts and nuts): a. Camshaft. b. Cylinder head. c. Cylinder. d. Carburetor. e. Recoil starter (models so equipped). f. Kickstarter (models so equipped).

8. Alternator.

52

CHAPTER FOUR

CD

4·STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

Carburetor

.... the pilton IrllVe'l downwlrd, the ...hault Vltv. II cloMd and the In18k. VIIIII openl, allowing the new air-fuel mixture from the carburetOf to

~

While the crlnkllhett continu.. to route, the pilton mov.. upward, compr... lng the eir-Iue' mixture.

drawn into the cylinder.

When the pilton rIIachel ttl. bottom of It. ttewei (8OC). the i"hlke ".1'11 clo••• end fem.lnl doMd the nellt 1 1/2 revolution.

'Of

of the er.nhhlltt.

P'ug

c .... the pilton elmolt ....che. the top of It.

Irl"ll, the apert plug fir •• , Igniting the compr....d elr·fuel mixture. Th. pilton contl~. to top dead ~t.r (TOO) and il puAed downward by the expending g.....

o WtHtn the pilton almot! teRMI BOC, the ..heult yelvs opens and remain. open until the pilton il neer TOe. The upward tr1lY~ of the pilton tore •• the I"hllus' gil'" out of the cylinder. After the pilton he. reached TOe, the Ixhllult vetv. do... end the eye.. lt8tts I" O'Ilr av-In.

ENGINE

S3 h. Clutch assemhJy(ics). i. External shift mechanism. j. Slancr (models so equipped).

ENGINE Removal! 1nstallation

I. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

2. Remove the seat, the front fender and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. On chain-driven models, remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six. 4. Remove the exhaust system as described in Chapler Six. S. Remove the carburetor as described in Chapter

Six. 6. Disconnect the spark plug lead and lie it up out oflhe way.

7. Disconnect the alternator or magneto electrical connector.

8. On models so equipped, disconnect the baltery negative lead (figure 2).

9A. On shaft -driven models, perfonn the following: a. Remove the clamping bolt securing the gearshift lever (A. Figure 3) and remove the gearshift lever. b. Remove the bolts securi ng the reverse gear cable brackct (B, Figure J) and the damping bolt securing the revcrse gear lever (A. Figure 4) and remove the reverse gear lever and cable assembly. c. Rem ove the bolts (Figure S) securing the footrest assembly a nd remove the footrest assembly. d. Remove the screws securing the neutral switch (B. Figure 4) and remove the neutral switch.

NOTE

LT-F2JOG models are not eqUIpped wirll a fIIbber bool.

e. On LTl3QG models, slide back the rubber boot (A, Figure 6) from the secondary gear housing outer case. f. Remove the bolts securing the secondary gear housing ou ter case (B. Figure 6). Using a soft faced mallet. tap around the perimeter of the outer case to break it loose from the engine.

Remove the outer case and gaskets. g. Pull the front ponion of the secondary gear assembly (A, Figure 7) away from the engine, then pull the assembly forward and disengage

4

S4

CHAPTE R FOUR it from the final dri ve unit's universal joint (B,

Figure 7) or the subtransmission (models so equipped). Remove the gear assembly from the engine.

911 On chain-driven models. perform the followi ng;

a. Remove the bolts (A. Figure 8) securing the clutch cable bracket to the clutch cover. b. Remove the clamping bolt (8 . Figure 8) securing the clutch release arm to the clutch release shaft and remove the clutch cable and release arm assembly. Tie the assembly up to the frame and oul of the way. c. Disconnect the decompression cable (Figure 9) from the lever on the cylinder head cover. d. Remove the dri ve sprocket as described in Chapler Nine. c. Remove the clamping bolt (A, Figure 10) and the bolts (8, Figure 10) securing the gearshift lever assembly to the frame and remove the gearshift lever assembly.

10. Remove the brake pedal assembly as described in Chapter Ten. NOTE

If ),011 are just remoring the engine and are not planmng to disassemble it, do not perform Step I/. The engine assembly is small enough that extemal componems need not be remored to redllce weight for engine relllOl'al.

II. If the engine is goi ng to be disassembled. remove the following pans: a. Remove the alternator or magneto as described in Chapter Seven. b. Remove the clutch assembly(ies) as described in Chapter Five. c. Remove the external shin mechan ism as described in Chapter Five. d. Remove the cylinder head cover, camShaft , cylinder head, cylinder, pi ston and oil pump assembly as described in this chapter.

12. Take a fina l look all over the engine to make sure everything has been disconnected.

WARNING Th e following steps reqllire the Q/d 0/ a helper to safely remOl'e the engine assembly from the frame.

13, Disconnect the cran kcase breather hose from the engine.

14. On chain-driven models, remove the bolts and nuts securing the cylinder head cover brackets and remove the brackets, IS , Remove the bolts and nuts securing the engine front hanger plates (Figure 11) and remove the

ss

ENG INE

engine fronl hanger plales. Don't lose the spacers on the through-bolt.

16. Remove the nut (Figure 12) and the through¡bolt securing the lower rear of the engine.

Withdraw the boll frorn the left-hand side.

17. Remove the nul (Figure 13) and the through-bolt securing the upper rcar o f the engine.

Wi lhdraw the bolt from the left-hand side. On chain-dri'\cn models, don", lose the spacer on each side (the long spacer goes on the left-hand side), 18. Pull the cngine slightly forward and OUI of the â&#x20AC;˘ left-hand side of the frame. Take il to a workbench for funher disassembly.

19. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

20. Tighten the mounting bolts 10 the torque specifications in Table 2.

21. Fill the engine with the recommended type and quantity of oil; refer to Chapter Three.

22. Adjust the decompression lever (models so equipped), the clutch. drive chain and rear brake pedal as described in Chapter Three.

23. Start the engine and check for leaks.

CYLI NDER H EA D CO VE R AND ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY Remo\'al

CAUTION To prel'el1l an)' warpage and damage. remOI'e Ihe C}'linder head COI"l'f only when Ihe engine is at room temperature.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake. Block the rear wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seat, the front fender and the rear fende r as decribcd in Chapter Eleven.

3. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

4. Remove the spark plug (this will make it easier to rotate the engine).

5A. On shaft-driven models. perform the following: a. Remove the boIlS securing the recoil starter assembly (Figure 14) and remove the assembly and gasket. b. Remove the timing hole cap located on the altemator cover. c. Using the nut (Figure 15) on the recoil starter cup. rotate the engine until the -T" timing mark aligns with the index mark on the crankcase (Figure 16). The pislOn must be al

.

56

CHAPTER FOUR top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

NOTE A crlinder al TDC on us compression stroke will h01'1! free play in both of its rocker arms, mdiColtng thai bOlh lhe intake and exhaust \'o/\'es Ofe dosed.

d. Remove both valve adjuster caps (Figure 17). e. With the engi ne timing mark on the "T," make sure both rocker anns have free play. If one or both rocker arms are tight, rotate the engine an additional 360¡ until both valves have free play.

58. On chain-driven models, perform the following; a. Remove the bolts securing the gearshift lever assembly 10 the engine and fram e and remove the gearshift lever assembly. h. Remove the bolts securing the dri ve sprocket guard (A, Figure 18) and remove the guard. c. Remove the bolts securing the alternator cover (8, Figure 18) and remove the cover and gasket. Don't lose the locating dowel. d. Rotate the engi ne with the kickslaner until the MTM timing mark aligns with the index mark on the crankcase (Figure 19). The piston must be at top dead center (rOC) on the compression stroke.

I

=-

NOTE

A c)'linder at TDC on il$ compression stroke will hal'e free play ill both of its rocker amu, Indicating fhal both fhe intake alld exhaust voll'es are closed. e. With the engine liming mark on the "T." make sure both rocker arms have free play. If one or both rocker arms are tight, rotate the engine an additional 180' until bot h valves have free play. f. Remove the bolts (Figure 20) securing the cylinder cover-to-frame mounting bracket and remove the bracket. g. Loosen the locknuts on the decompression lever cable and disconnect the cable (Figure 9) rrom the lever on the cylinder head cover.

NOTE Do not remOI'(' the 2 bolts (A, Figllre 1/)

With the conically reussed heads as they hold the rocker arm shafts ill position.

fd

,

8'

ÂŽ ....

ENGINE

57 6. Loosen the cylinder head order indicated in Figure 21.

CO'ler

bolts in the

NOTE

Prior 10 (emoring the c),linder head boilS, cuI a cardboard lemplall' the approximate si=e of Ihe C)'linder head corer. Pllnch holes in the template for each hoi/location and place the bolts in the templart' holes as they afe remol'e(/.

This will grearly speed up the assembly lime by eliminating the search for the correct boll.

7. Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder head co ver. It may be necessary to tap arou nd the perimeter of the cover with a plastic or soft- fa ced mallet to break the cover loose from th e cylinder head. Don't lose the localing dowels.

CAUTION Nel'er lise a screll'drirer or SIlI/i/ar

ÂŽ

@

sharp tool to loosen or pry off the cylinder head col'er. Serious and I'e')' (!xpensil'l' damage to Ihe cylinder head corer and cylinder head \l'iII resull.

Inspection If oil leakage was visible between the cylinder head cover and the cylinder head, the seating surface of the cylinder head cover may be wartx=d or damaged. Inspect the seal ing surface of the cylinder head cover for scoring or other signs of damage.

Because the cylinder head and cylinder head cover are machined as a set during manufaclUre, they must be replaced as a set if either is damaged or defective.

I. Remove all traces of sealant residue from the cylinder head and cylinder head cover mating surfac".

2. Thoroughl y clean the cylinder head cover in solvent and dry with com pressed air.

3. Aller the cylinder head cover has been cleaned, place a straightedge across the cylinder head/cylinder gasket surface at several points.

Measure the warp by inserting a Aat feeler gauge between the straightedge and the cyli nder head at each location. There should be no warpage. The maximum allowable distortion is listed in Table I. If the cylinder head cover is warped or distorted beyond the limit, the cylinder head cover and cylinder head must be replaced as a set.

4. Inspect the rocker arms as described in this chapter.

58

CHAPTER FOUR

Installation

The piston must be at TDC on the compression stroke. Refer to the Cylinder Head Remol'al procedure in this chapler.

1. Make sure all sealant residue is removed from the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder head cover. Spray both sealing surfaces with con tact cleaner.

2. Apply a Ihin even coat of Suzuki Bond 12078, Three Bond 1104, or equivalent to the cylinder head sealing surface.

3. Lubricate the camshaft bearing joumais and bearing surfaces in the cylinder head cover (Figure 22) with molybdenum disulfide grease.

4. Make sure the locating dowels are in place.

S. InSlall the camshaft rubber end cap (Figure 23) into the cylinder head cover.

6. Install the cylinder head cover and press it into position.

7. Install a new copper washer under cyli nder head bolts No.2 and No.6 as noted in Figure 24.

@ 23

â&#x20AC;˘

NOTE

The torque pal/ern for tightening the

boilS is dillerenr than the pal/ern used for remom/.

8. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in 2-3 stages in the torque pattcrn indicated in Figure 24. Tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

9A. On shafi-driven models. install the recoil starter assembly and new gasket.

98. On chain-driven models, perform the following: a. Install the decompression cable to the lever on the cylinder head cover. b. Install the cylinder head cover-to-fram e mounting brackets and bolts (Figure 20) and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 2. c. Make sure the locating dowel is in place and install the alternator cover (8, Figure 18) and gasket. d. Install the drive sprocket guard (A, Figure 18) and tighten the bolts securely. e. Install the gearshift lever assembly to the engine and frame and tighten the bolts securely.

10. Install the spark plug and attach the spark plug lead.

I!. Refill the engi ne with the recommended type and quantity of engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

ÂŽ

New copper washer

New copper washer

ENGINE

@

ÂŽ

ÂŽ

S9 Disassembl y /I nspectionl Asse m bl)'

It is suggested thai onc rocker arm assembly be disassembled, inspected and then assembled to avoid the intermixing of parts. This is especially true with a well run4in engine (high mileage), Once wear patterns are developed on these pans. they should be installed only as the)' were removed or excessive wear may occur.

If you remove both rocker arm assemblies althe same lime, mark them in sets with -I~ (inlake) or -E- (exhaust) so they wI ll be reinstalled in the correct location in the cylinder head. The exhaust rocker ann has a pad where the decompression shaft rides.

1. Withdraw the decompressIOn shaft (A. Figure

2S).

2. Remove the rocker arm shaft bolts (8. Figure 25) and gasket washers. Discard Ihe gasket. washers.

3. Tap on the side of the cylinder head cover. next to the rocker arm shafts, with a plastic mallet and the rocker arm shafts will work their way out of the cyli nder head. Using a pair of pliers, carefull} withdraw the rocker arm shaft (C, Figure 25). rocker arm and wave washer (Figure 26).

4. Wash all pans in cleaning solven t and thorQughly dry.

S. Inspect the rocker arm pad where it rides on the cam lobe and where the adjuster rides on the valve stem (Figure 27). If the pad is scratched or unevenly worn. inspect the cam lobe for scoring, chippmg or nat spots. Replace the rocker arm if defective.

6. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm bore (A. figure 28) with an inside micrometer and check against the dimensions in Table l. Replace if worn to the service limit or greater.

7. Inspect the rocker arm shaft for signs of wear or scoring. Measure the outside diameter (8, Figure 28) with a micrometer and check against the dimensions in Table l. Replace if "om to the service limit or less.

8. [nstall a new O-ring seal (Figure 29) on the rocker arm shaft 10 prevent an oil leak.

9. Coat the rocker arm shaft and rocker arm bore with Suzuki Moly Paste or equivalent (molybdenum disulfide grease).

10. Install the rocker arm shaft with the O-ring end facing out (A. Figure 30). Partially insen the rocker arm shaft into the cylinder head and position the rocker arm (8, Figure 30) into the cylinder head. Push the rocker arm shaft pan way through the rocker arm.

CHAPTER FOUR

60 II. Insert the wave washer (Figure 31) into place and slide the rocker arm in a linle more to capture the wave washer.

12. Align the hole in the rocker arm shaft (A. Figure 32) with Ihc bolt hole (B, Figure 32) in the cylinder head cover. Push the rocker arm in until it bottoms out.

13. Install a new gaskellwashcr under Ihe bolt and install the rocker arm shan bolt. Tighten Ihe roc ker ann shaft bolt 10 Ihe torque specification listed in Table 2.

14. Repeat Steps 3·13 for thc other rocker afm

®

assembly.

15. Coat the decompression shaft with Suzuki Moly Paste or equivalent (molybdenum disulfide grease) and install Ihe decompression shaft.

CYLINDER HEAD AND CAMSH AFT CAU710N To prel'em any warpage and damage. remOI'(! the cylinder head and cam ollly when the engme /s 01 room temperature.

I. Place the ATV on Icvel ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove thc cyli nder head COvcr as dcscribed in this chapter.

3. Remove the carburetor and intake tube as described in Cha pter Six. 4. If still installed. remove the camshaft end cap (."igure 33). Sometimes the end cap will stay wi th the cylindcr head cover.

5. Ratten the loc-king tabs (Figure 34) of the lockwasher on each camshaft sprocket bolt.

6. Rotate the engine until one of the camshaft sprocket bolts is exposed. Remove that boil (Figure 35).

7. Again rotate the engine until the other camshaft sproc_ket bolt is exposed. Remove that bolt.

®

ENGINE

61 8. Gently pry the camshaft sprocket free from the camshaft and withdraw the camshafl from the sprocket and drive chain. Remove the camshaft.

NOTE A small dril'E' pin is USl'ti 10 keep the sprocket aligned w;lh the camshaft. The drire Pin may remain with the sprocker or the camshaft. Take care not 10 drop the dril'(! pin into the crankcase.

9. Disengage the drive chain from the sprocket and remove the sprocket.

10. Attach a piece of wire to the drive chain and lie it 10 the exterior orlhc engine (FiKure 36), This will prevent the chain from falling into the crankcase.

CAUTION If the crankshaft must be rotated when Ihe camshaft IS removed. pull up on the cam chain and keep il taUl wIllie fOloling Ihe crankshaft. Make certain that Ihe dril'e chain is posirioned correclly on the crankshaft timing sprockel. If this is not done, the dr/I'e chain may become kmked and may damage both the cham and the f/lnl/lg sprocket on Ihe crankshaft.

NOTE Prior 10 remol'ing Ihe cap 'lUiS, Ihe plam nw and the washers. note Ihe location ofthe washers and plain /Iut as shown in Figurt 37. They /IIIISt be installed on the same crankcase stud from which IheJ' were remOl'ed, If IIIstalled illcorrl'Ctlr, an oil leak will result.

EXHAUST

@ INTAKE

Steel w•• he,

® Copper w •• her

II. Rcmove the bolls securing thc cam chain tensioner assembly (figure 38) and remove the tensioner assembly.

12. Remove the bolt (A. Figure 39) securing the cam chain tensioner slipper and remove the tensl0ner slipper (B, Figure 39).

CHAPTER FOUR

62 13. In a crisscross pattern, remove the nuts and washers (Figure 40) securing the cylinder head.

CAUTION Remember, the cooling fins are fragIle and may be damaged if/upped or pried

on

tOO

hard. Nel'er use a melal

hammer. \4. Loosen the cylinder head by lapping around the perimeter with a rubbe r or soft-faced mallet. If necessary. gently pry the head loose with a broad-tipped screwdriver.

15. Lin the cylinder head straight up and off the crankcase studs. Guide the cam chain through the opening in the cylinder head and retic the wire \0 the exterior of the engine. This will prevent the drive chain from falling down inlo the crankcase.

16. Remove the cylinder head gasket and discard il. Don't lose the locating dowels.

17. Place a clean shop cloth into the cam chain opening in the cylinder to prevent the entty of foreign matter.

@

Disassembly11 nspeclion/ Assem bly Because the cylinder head and cylinder head cover are machined as a set during manufacture, they must be replaced as a set if either is damaged or defective.

I. Remove all traces of gasket material from the cylinder head mating surfaces (Figure 4 1).

2. WithQUf remol'jng the I'oll'n, remove all carbon deposits from the combustion chamber (Figure 42) and valve pons with a wire brush. A blunt screwdriver or chisel may be used if care is taken not to damage the head. valves and spark plug threads.

J. Afier the carbon is removed from the combustion chamber and the valve intake and exhaust pons, clean the entire head in cleaning solvent. Blow dry wi th compressed air.

4. Clean away all carbon from the piston crown.

Do not remove the carbon ridge at the lOP of the cylinder bore . .5. Check for cracks in the combustion chamber and exhaust pons. A cracked head must be replaced.

6. After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, place a straightedge across the cylinder head/cylinder gasket surface (Figure 43) at several points. Measure the warp by insening a nat feeler gauge between the straightedge and the cylinder head at each location. There should be no warpage; ira small amoun t is present, it can be resurfaced by a dealer or q ualified machine shop. Replace the cylinder head and cylinder head cover as a set if

@

/

@

ENGINE

®

63 the gasket surface is warped to or beyond the limit listed in Ta ble 1.

7. Inspect the cam bearing surfaces in the cylinder head (Figure 44) and cylinder head cover (Figure 22) for wear or scoring. Replace the cylinder head and cylinder head cover as a SCI if the bearing surfaces are worn or scored.

8. Ched the cam bearing journals (figure 45) for wear and scoring. Compare 10 the dimensions given in Table I. If worn 10 the service limit or greater the cam must be replaced.

9. Check the cam lobes for wear (Figure 46). The lobes should show no signs ofscon"g and the edges should be square. Slight damage may be removed with a silicon carbide oilstone. Use No. 100-120 grit stone initially, then polish WIth a No. 280-320 grit stone.

10. Even though the cam lobe surface appears to be satisfactory, with no visiblc signs of wear. the cam lobes must be measured with a micrometer.

Compare to the dimensions given in Table I. II. Inspect the cam sprocket (Figure 47) for wear; replace if necessary.

Inslallalion

®

I. lubricate all cam lobes and bearing journals with Suzuki Moly Paste or equivalent (molybdenum disulfide grease). Also coat the cam bearing surfaces in the cylinder head.

CAUTION Wltell rOIalmg (he crankshaft, keep Ihe cam chain (aut and engaged with Ihe wmng sprocket on lhe crankshaft.

®

2. The engine must be at top dead center (TDe) for the following steps for corrC(:t valve timing.

Hold the cam chain out and taut while rotating the crankshaft to avoid damage to the chain and/or the crankcase.

3A. On shaft-driven mooels, use the nut (Figure IS) on the recoil starter cup to rotate the engine until the -T~ timing mark aligns with the index mark on the crankcase Wigure 16).

3B. On chain-dri ven mooels, rotate the engine with the kickslaner until the -T~ timing mark aligns with the index mark on the crankcase Wigure 19).

4. Make sure the stationary cam chain siLpper is properly positioned in the cylinder as shown In .-igure 48.

5. Install a new head gasket (A, Figure 49) and the locating dowels (B. Figure 49).

6. Inslall the cylinder head onto the crankcase studs. With your fingers, carefuly inscn the cam chain into the cam chain cavity on the side of the

CHAPTER FOUR

64 cylinder head while pushing the cylinder head down into position.

7. Tie the wire attached to the cam chain to the exterior of the cngine.

8. Install the cylinder head upper nuts and washer.; as shown in Figure 37.

9. Install the lower nuts on the right-hand side of the cylinder head securing the cylinder head to the cylinder.

10. Tighten the 4 upper (8 mm) nuts gradually in 2¡3 Sleps in a crisscross patlem to the torque specification listed in Table 2. Then tighten the 2 lower (6 mm) nuls to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

II. Make sure the C-clip retainer (Figure SO) is installed in the cylinder head. This C-clip controls end Iloat of the camshaft a nd musl be installed.

12. Position the camshaft sprocket so the drive pin hole is located between the 1[:00 and 12;00 o'clock position and mesh it with the drive chain.

13. Make sure the drive pin is installed in the camshaft.

14. Position the camshaft so the drive pin hole is located between the 11:00 and 12:00 o'cl ock position (A, Figure !iiI) and the index marks are perfectly aligned with the top surface of the cylinder head (8, Figure 5 I).

15. Slide the cam sprocket over the shoulder o n the ca mshaft. The drive pin hole in the sprocket and the dri ve pin in the camshaft should align and the camshaft must be indexed into the C-clip in the cylinder head. If alignment is correct, proceed to Step 16. If the drive pin and the drive pin hole in the sprocket do nOI align, perform the foll owing: a. Refer to Step 3 and make sure the ~T~ mark is still properly aligned. Readjust if necessary. b. Make sure the index marks on the camshaft are perfectly aligned with the top surface of the cylinder head. c. Slide the cam sprocket and chain off the shoulder on the camshaft. d. Reposition the cam chain on the sprocket until the drive pin and drive pin hole align. e. Slide tbe cam sprocket and chai n onto tbe shoulder of the ca mshaft. f. Make sure the index marks on the camshaft are perfectly aligned with the top surface o f the cylinder head (Figure 52). g. The camsbaft must be indexed into the C-clip in the cylinder head.

CAUTION Very expensil'e damage could result from improper cam and cam chain alignment. Recheck your work sel'eral limes 10 be sure alignment is correct.

16. When alignment is correct, perform the following: a. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 21 14) to one of the cam sprocket boilS b. Install a new lockwasher. c. Install the bolt (Figure 35) into the exposed bolt hole. d. Rotate the engine one fu ll tum to expose the other bolt hole. e. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the other cam sprocket bolt and install the bolt.

65

ENGINE

f. Tighten both bolts to the torque specification listed in Table 2. g. Fold over the locking lab onto a Itat on each

of the bolts (Figure 53).

17. Make onc final check to make sure alignment is correc!. The ~T' timing mark must be aligned with the mark and the index mark on the end of t.he camshaft must be perfectly aligned with the top surface of the cylinder head.

18. Install the cam chain tcnsioner slipper into the cylinder. Make sure the end of the slipper is indexed properly into the receptacle in the cylinder. Install the bolt (Figure 39) securing the cam chain tcnsioner slipper and tighten the bolt

securely.

19. Install the camshaft end cap (Figure 33).

20. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly (Figure 38) and tighten the bolts securely.

21. Install the cylinder head cover as described in this chapter.

22. Install the carburetor and intake tube as described in Chapter Six. 23. Adjust the valves and cam chain tension as described in Chapter Three.

VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

General practice among those who do their own service is to remove the cylinder head and take it 10 a machine shop or dealer [or inspection and service. Since the cost is low relative to the required effon and equipment, this is the best approach, even for experienced mechanics.

CYLINDER

Remo\'al

Drill 1/2 In. hole

In cent,r

1 // /'

~_/

-

1I2xl1/414In.

Cut away this portion

I. Remove the cylinder head cover and cylinder head as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the cam chain front slipper (Figure 48).

3. Remove the nuts (Figure 54) securing the cyli nder to the crankcase.

4. Loosen the cylinder by tapping around the perimeter with a rubber or plastic mallet. If necessary. gently pry the cylinder loose with a broad-tipped screwdriver.

S. Pull the cylinder straig,ht Oul and ofT of the crankcase studs. Work the cam chain wire through the opening in the cylinder.

6. Remove the cylinder base gasket and discard il.

Remo ve the dowel pins from the crankcase studs.

7. Install a piston holding fixture under the piston to protect the piston skin from damage. This fixture may be purchased or may be a homemade unit of wood. See Figure 55 for dimensions.

66

CHAPTER FOUR

Inspection

The following procedure requires the use of highly specialized and expensive measuring instruments. If such equipment is not readily available, have the measurements performed by a dealer or qualified machine shop.

I. Soak with solvent any old cylinder head gasket material on the cylinder. Use a broad·tippcd dull chisel and gently scrape oR" all gasket residue. Do nol gouge the sealing surface as oil and air leaks

@

will result.

2. Measure the cylinder bore with a cyli nder gauge (Figure 56) or inside micrometer at the points shown in Figure 57. Measure in 2 axes-in line with the piston pin and at 90" to the pin. If the taper or Qut-oC-round is 0. 10 mm (0.004 in.) or greater, the cyli nder must be rebored to the next oversize and a new piston installed.

NOTE

new piston ShOlIId be obtained before Ihe cylinder is rebored so thatlhe piston can be measured: slight manufacturing tolerances must be taken mto account 10 delermine the aClual size and workmg clearance.

Th~

®

3. Check the cylinder wall (Figure 58) fo' scratches: if evident, the cylinder should rebored.

NOTE The maximum wear limit on the C)'linder is listed m Tobit I. 1/ the cylinder is worn 10 this limit, if mllSI be replaced. Nt'rer rebore a cylinder ilthe finished rebore diameter will be this dimension or grealer.

'"

Installation 1. Check that the top surface of the crankcase and the bottom surface of the cylinder are clean prior to installing a new base gasket.

2. Install a new cylinder base gasket (A, Figure 59) and dowel pins (8, figure 59).

3. Install a piston bolding ftxture under the piston.

4. Make sure the end gaps of the piston rings are no/ lined up with each other-they must be staggered. Lightly oil ' the piston rings and the inside of the cylinder bores with assembly oil.

S. Install the cylinder and slide it down onto the crankcase studs.

6. Carefully fced the cam chain and wire up through the opening in the cyli nder and tie it to the engine.

7. Start the cylinder down over the piston (Figure 60). Compress each piston ring with your ftngers as it enters the cylinder.

@

",

'

•

67

ENG INE

8. Slide the cylinder down until it bottoms on the piston holding fixture.

9. Remove Ihe piston holding fixture and slide Ihe cylinder down into place on the crankcase.

10. Install the nuts securing the cylinder 10 the crankcase and tighten 10 the torque speci fi cation listed in Table 2.

II . Install the cam chain frOnl slipper. Make sure

the lower end of the slipper is properly indexed into the tC1:CptacJe in the crankcase. If improperly installed. II will interfere and bind with the cam chain.

12. Inslall thc cylinder head and cylinder head cover as described in this chapter.

13. Adjust the valves and the cam chain tensioner as described in Chapter Th ree.

14. Follow the Break-in Procedure in this chapter if the cylinder was reboTed or honed or a new piston or piston rings were installed.

PISTO N. PISTO N PIN AND PISTON RI NGS

ÂŽ

The piston is made of an aluminum alloy. The piston pin is made of steel and is a precision fit.

The piston pin is held in place by a clip at each end.

1

Piston

R e mo~ a l

I. Remove the cylinder head cover, cylinder head and cylinder as described in this chapter.

WARNING The edges of all piston rings are I'er)' sharp. Be careful when handling Ihem 10 al'oid cllllingfingers.

2. Remove the top ring with a ring expander tool or by spreading the ends with your thumbs just enough to slide the ring up over the piston (Figure 61). Repeat for the remaining rings.

3. Before removing the piston, hold the rod tightly and rock the piston as shown in Figure 62. Any rock ing motion (do not confuse with the normal sliding motion) indicates wear on the piston pin, piston pin bore or connecting rod small¡cnd bore (more likely a combination of these).

NOTE

Wrap a clean shop cloth IInder the piston so fhaf the piston pin clip will not fall imo Iht' crankcase.

4. Remove the cli ps from each side of the piston pin bore (Figure 63) with a small screwdriver or scribe. Hold )'our thumb over one edge of the clip when removing it to prevent the clip from springing oul.

I 68

CHAPTER FOUR

5. Use a proper size wooden dowel or socket extension and push out the piston pin.

ÂŽ

CAUTION Be careful when removing the pin to al'oid damaging the connecting rod. If it is necessary to gemly tap the pin to remOI'e iI, be sure thal the piston is properly supponed so that lateral shock is nOI trar/Smitted 10 the lower connecling rod bearing.

6. If the piston pin is difficult to remove, heal the piston and pin with a butane torch. The pin will probably push right OUI. Heal the piSlon to only about 140" F (60" C), i.e., umil it is 100 wann 10 touch, but not excessively hot. If the pin is slilt difficult 10 push oul, use a homemade 1001 as shown in Figure 64.

7. Lift the piston off the connecting rod.

8. Tfthe piston is going 10 be left offfor some time, place a piece of foam insulation tube over the end of the rod to protect it.

Pipe

Wuher Threaded rod

@

Inspe<"tion I. Carefully clean the carbon from the piston crown wi th a chemical re mover or with a soft scraper (Figure 65). Do nol remove or damage the carbon ridge around the circumference of the piston above the top ring. If the piston, rings and cylinder are found to be dimensionally correct and can be reused, removal of the carbon ring from the top of the piston or the carbon ridge from the top of the cylinder will promote excessive oil consumption.

@

t

CAUTION Do 1/01 wire brush Ihe piston skirts.

2. Examine each ring groove for bum, dented edges and wide wear. Pay particular attention to the lOP compression ring groove as it usual ly wears more than the others.

3. Trdamage or wear indicates pislOn replacement, select a new piston as described under Piston Clearance in this chapter.

4. Oil the piston pin and install it in the connecting rod. Slowly rotate the piston pin and check for radial play (Figure 66). Ifan ), play exists, the piston pin should be replaced. providing the rod bore is in good condition.

5. Measure the inside diameter of the piston pin bore with a snap gauge (Figure 67) and measure the

outside diameter of the piston pin with a m icrometer (figure 68). Compare with dimensions gi\'cn in Table I. Replace the piston and piston pin as a set if either or both are worn.

ÂŽ

t

ENGINE

69 6. Check the piston skirt for galling and abrasion which may have been caused by pislOn seizure. If Iigtll galling is present. smooth the affected area with No. 400 emery paper and oil o r a fine oilstone.

However, if galling is severe or if the pi ston is deepl )' scored, replace il.

Piston Clearance

ÂŽ

I. Make su re the piSion and cylinder walls are clean and dry.

2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at a point 13 mm ( 1/2 In.) from the upper edge with a bore gauge (Figure 56).

3. Measure the outside diameter of the piston across the skirt (Figure 69) al right angles to the piston pin. Measure at a distance 18 mm (0.70 in.) up from the bouom of the piston skirt.

4. Piston clearance is the difference between the maximum piston diameter and the minimum cylinder diameter. Subtract the d imension of the piston from the cylinder d imension and com pare to the dimension listed 10 Table I. If the clearance exceeds that specified, the cyli nder should be rebored to the next oversize and a new piston installed.

5. To establish a fmal overbore dimenSion with a new piston, add the piston skirt measurement to the specified clearance. This will detennine the dimension for the cylinder overbore size.

Remember, do not exceed the cylinder maximum service limit inside diametcr indicated in Table I.

Piston Insta llation

ÂŽ

I. Apply molybden um disulfide grease to the inside surface of thc connecting rod.

2. Oil the piston pin with assembly oil and install it in the piston until its end extends slightly beyond the inside of the boss (Figure 70).

3. Place the piston over the connecting rod with the arrow (Figure 71) on the piston crown directed upward toward Ihc front of the engine.

4. Line up the piston pin with the hole in the connecting rod. Push the piston pin through the connecting rod and inlo thc other side of the piston until it is even with the piston pin clip grooves.

CAlJTION If it is IIE'Cessary to tap the pISton pm into the connectmg rod, do so gemly with a block ofl1vxxJ or a soft-faced hammer. Make sure you suppon the piston to prel'(!nt the lateral shock from bemg tronsmilled to the connee-tlng rod bearing.

70

CHAPTER FOUR NOTE

In the next step, install the clips with the gap away from the cutout in lhi' piston.

®

5. Install new piston pin clips in both ends of the pin boss. Make sure they are scaled in the grooves in the piston.

6. Check the installation by rocking the piston back and forth around the pin axis and from side to side along the axis. It should rotate freely back and forth but nOI from side to side.

7. Install the piston rings as described in this chapter.

8. Install the cylinder, cylinder head and cylinder head cover as described in this chapler.

Piston Ring Removal/ Inspectionll nSlallation

iVARNING The edges of all piston rings are I'ery sharp. Be careful when handling them LO QI'Oid

cutting fingers.

I . Remove the top ring by spreading the ends with your thumbs Just enough to slide the ring up over the piston (Figure 61 ). Repeat for the remaining rings.

2. Carefully remove all carbon buildup from the ring grooves wi th a broken piston ring. Inspect the grooves carefully for burrs. nicks or broken and cracked lands. Recondition or replace the piston if

necessary.

3. Roll each ring around its piston groove as shown in Figure 72 to check for binding. Minor binding may be cleaned up with a fine-cut file.

4. Measure the side clearance of each ring in its groove with a fiat feeler gauge (Figure 73) and compare to dimensions given in Table J. If the clearance is greater than specified, the rings must be replaced. If the clearance is still excessive with the new rings, the piston musl also be replaced.

S. Measure each ring for wear. Place each ring, one at a time. into the cylinder and push it in about 20 mm (3/ 4 in.) with the crown of the piston to ensure

®

I:'

",

®

I

71

ENGINE

that the ring is square in the cylinder bore.

Measure the gap with a flat feeler gauge (Figure 74) and compare 10 dimensions in Table I. Irthe gap is grealer Ihan specified, the rings should be replaced.

When installing new rings, measure their end gap in the same manner as for old ones. If the gap is less than specified, carefully file the ends (Figure 75) with a finc-cul file until the gap is corrC<'1.

6. [nstall the piston rings in the order shown in Figure 76.

@

NOTE Inswlllhe compression rmgs It'ilh !heir

markings facing up. The shapes of the lOp and second rings are different as sho ll'1/ III Figure 77.

ÂŽ

, ,, 0

0 ,

'1'1'1 \,

0 ,0

I III

0

,,

I

, , ,,I 0'

,

7. Install the oil ring spacer firs t. then the side rails (Figu re 78). New oil ring side rails do not have top and bonom designations. If reassembling used pans. install the sid e rails as they were removed.

8. Install the second compression ring. then the tOp ring by carefully spreading the ends of the ring with your thumbs and slipping the ring over the top of the piston. Remember that the marks on the piston rings arc toward the top of the piston.

9. Makc sure the rings are seated completely in their grooves all the way around the piston and that the ends arc distribu ted around the piston.

The imponant thing is that the ring gaps arc not aligned with each o ther when installed.

10. If new rings .... ere installed, measure the side clearance of each ring in its groove with a flat feeler gauge (figure 73) and compare 10 dimensions given in Table I. II . Follow the Break.¡m Procedllre in this chapter if a new piston or piston rings have been installed or the cylinder was rebored or honed.

To,

Second

'l

@

OIL P UMP

ring

The oil pump is located on the right-hand side of the cngine forward of the clutch assembly. The oil pump can be removed with the engine in the frame.

Removal

A. Side 'all B. E.pa nde, ring

I. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

2. Remove the clutch assembly as described in Chapter Fi ve.

J. Remove the E¡clip (A, Figure 79) SC<"uring the oil pump driven gcar and remove the dri ven gear (B, figure 79).

CHAPTER FOUR

72

NOTE The Phillips head screws had Loclir(! applied 10 them during installation. Use an impacl dril'er or air /00/10 remOI'ÂŁ'

rhl' screws.

The screw head will

probably be damaged if remoral ;s tried

with a regular screwdril'er.

Phillips

head

4. Use an impact driver or air tool and remove the Phillips head screws (A. Figure 80) securing the oil pump and remove the oil pump assembly. Don't lose the drive pin (B, Figure 80) in the oil pump shaft.

5. If necessary, slide off the oil pump drive gear (C. Figure 80).

ÂŽ

Ins pection

The oil pump cannot be disassembled for inspection or service and must be replaced as a unit. If the engine is undergoing a complete overhaul, replace the oil pump.

If abnormal oi l pressure is suspected, have the oil pressure checked by a Suzuki dealer; a speeiai low pressure gauge and adaptor are required 10 perform this test.

CAM CHAIN TENSIONEA 1. Tenl loner front IlIppflr 6. O-ring

2. Cam chain 7. Adjust Icrew 3. Tenl loner rear slipper 6. Locknut 4. Walher 5. Bolt

B

@

9. Galkal 10. Spring and plunger

ENGINE

73

Installation

J. If removed, align the groove in the oil pump drive gear with the pin in the crankshaft and install the oil pump drive gear (C, Figure 80).

2. Apply blue Loctite (Lock Nt Seal No. 2114) to

the screw threads securing the oil pump. Tighten the screws with an impact driver or air 1001 to the to rque specification listed in T a ble 2.

3. Make sure the drive pin (B, fililure 80) is installed in the oil pump shaft.

4. Align the groove in the oil pump driven gear with the pin in the oil pump shaft and install the oil pump driven gear (B, Figure 79).

5. Install the E-dip (A, Figure 79) Setunng the oil pump driven gear.

6. Install the clutch assem bly as described in Chapter Five.

7. Refill the crankcase with the recommended type and quantity of engine oil as described in Chapter T hree.

CAM C H AIN TENSIONER Removal/lnsl8llallon I. Re move the bolts securing the cam chain tensioner (F igure 8J ) and remove the tensioner assembly and gasket. Discard the gasket 2. Install a new gasket onto the cylinder and install the tensioner assembly.

3. Tighten the bolts securely.

4. Adjust the cam chain tensioner as described in Chapter Three.

KICKSTARTER

,

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

e.

7.

8.

9.

10.

8

Disassembly/ Assembly Refcr to Figure 82 for this proccd ure.

1. Loosen the locknut securing the adjust screw (A, Figure 83) and remove the adjust screw (and locknut), washer and O·ring (13, Figure 83) from the lensioner body.

2. Remove the plunger and spring from the tensioner body.

3. Clean all pans in solvent and thoroughly dry with compressed air.

4. Inspect the plunger and tensioner body for damage or excessive wear. Replace the worn parts as necessary.

5. Install a new O·ring on the adjust screw. Oil the O·ring and adjust screw and install the adjust screw a few turns into the tensioner body.

6. Ligh tly grease the plunger and the spring receptacle in the tensioner body.

7. Install the spring and plunger into the tensioner body. Tighten the adjust screw to hold the plunger into the tensioner body.

8. Compress the plunger and spring into the tensioner body (A, Figure 84) and tighten the adjust screw and lockn ut (B, Figure 84).

KICKST ARTER (CHAl N-DRI VEN M ODELS)

RemO"a l Refer to Figure 8S for this procedure.

I. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

Allen bolt Lever Oil seal Kickstarter shaft No. 2 Thru st washer Klckst.rter ge. r No. 2 Rubber etopper Bracket Klckstarter gear No. 1 Spri ng guide

12

11 .

12.

13.

14.

15.

le.

17.

18.

19.

20.

Return spring Kick starter shaft No. 1 Kick starter drive gear Clrcllp Klck,tarter 'atchet Bolt Qulde Stopper Ratchet spri ng Spring hook bolt

17 18

16

~I

al..W

4

74 2. Remove the brake pedal as described in Chapter Ten. 3. Remove the bolts (A, Figure 86) securing the clutch cable bracket to the clutch cover.

4. Remove the clamping bolt (8. Figure 86) securing the clutch release arm to the release shaft and remove the release arm.

S. Remove the clutch release arm and cable assembly and tie them up and out of the way.

6. Remove the bolts securing the kicks tarter lever rubber stopper bracket (Figure 87) to the clutch cover and remove the bracket assembly,

7. Jrnecessary, remove the Allen bolt securing the kickstaner lever (Figure 88) to the kickstartcr shaft and remove the kickstaner lever.

8. Remove the oil filter as described in Chapter Three.

9. Remove the bolts securing the clutch cover (Figure 89). Don't forget to remove the bolt (Figure 90) in the oil filter recess in the clutch cover.

Remove the clutch cover and gasket.

10. Remove the kickstaner gear No. I Wigure 91 ) rrom the kickstaner shaft.

II . Remove the spring guide (Figure 92) rrom wi thin tho.! return spring.

12. Using a pair or pliers or Vise Grips, unhook the relUm spring rrom the spring hook bolt (A,

CHAPTER FOUR

75

ENGINE

Figure 93) on the crankcase and from the hole (B, Figure 93) in the kickstarter shaft. Remove the return spring.

13. Remove the kickstarter shaft No. I assembly from the crankcase.

14. To remove the Idckstarter idle gea r, perform the following: a. Remove the clutch assembly as described in Chapter Five. h. Remove the circlip (A, Figure 94) securing the kickstarter idle gear and remove the gear (B, Figure 94), Disassembly/ lnspectionl Assembly Refer to Figure 8S for this procedure.

I. Slide off the thrust washer, ratchet spring and kickstaner ratchet.

2. If necessary. remove the circlip and thrust washer (Figure 95) securing the kickstaner drive gear to the kickstancr shan No. I. 3. If not already removed. remove the Allen bolt (Figure 96) securing the kickstaner lever to the kickstarter shaft No.2 and remove the kickstarter lever.

4. Withdraw the kickstarter shaft No.2 from the clutch cover and remove the kickstarter gear No.2 and both thrust washers.

5. Ched for chipped or missing teeth on all gears (A, Figure 97).

6. Inspect the internal splines (8, Figure 97) on all gears.

7. Check all pans for uneven wear; replace as necessary.

ÂŽ 8

â&#x20AC;˘

76

CHAPTER FOUR

8. Inspect the splines (Figure 98) on the kick.slaner shaft No. I.

9. Check

the ratchet surfaces on

both

the

kickstarter ratche t and the and kickstarter drive gear (Figure 99) for wear; replace if necessary.

10. Apply clean engine oil \0 all sliding surfaces of

all pans prior to assembly and installation.

II. Install the kickstancr drive gear and circlip (if removed). See figure 95.

12. Install the kickstaner ralchel onto the kickstarter shaft No. I. The index marks on both pans must align (Figure 100).

13. InSlall the ralchet spring and thrus t washer OntO the shaft behind the kickstarter ratchet.

14. Insert the kickstarter gear No.2 into the clutch cover with a thrust washer on each side of the gear.

15. Insert the kickstaner sha ft No. 2 into the clutch cover. The index mark on the kickstarter shaft (Figure 10 1) must align with the index mark (Figure 102) on the kickstarter gear No.2.

16. Install the kickstarter lever onto the kickstarter shaft. The index mark on both parts must align (Figure 103).

17. Install the Allen bolt onto the kicks tarter shaft and tighten securely.

Ins tallation I. If the kickstarter idle gear was removed, perform the following: a. Ins tall the kickstarter idle gear and the circlip. b. Install the clutch assembl y as described in Chapter Five.

2. Install the kickstaner shaft No. I assembly into the cran kcase (Figure 104). Make surt the return spring and thrust washer are in place on the end of the shaft.

3. Install the return spring onto the kickstarter shaft No. I. 4. Using a pair of pliers or Vise Grips, hook the return spring into the hole (Figure lOS) in the kickslartcr shaft.

S. Again using a pair of pliers or Vise Grips. pull the return spring down and hook it onto the spring

ÂŽ

77

ENGINE

hook bolt (A. Figure 93) on the crankcase. Make sure the spring is properl} sealed on the spring hook boll.

6. Install the spring guide (Figure 92) into the return sprtng.

7. Install Ihe kicks!arter gear No. 1 on to the kickslarlcr shaft. The index marks (figure 106) on both parts must align.

8. Install a new clutch cover gasket (A, Figure 107) and locating dowels (B , Figure 107) onlO the

crankcase.

9. Install the clutch cover and tighten all bolts securely. Don', forget to install the bolt (Figure 90) in the oil filler recess in the clutch cover.

10. Install Ihe kickSlarter le ver rubber stopper bracket (figure 87) \0 the clutch cover and install the boilS. Tighten the bolts securely.

II. [nstall the clutch release arm onlO the release

shaft and install the clamping bolt (U, fil,lure 86).

Tighten the bolt securely.

12. Install the bolts (A, Figure 86) sccuring the dutch cable bracket and tighten securel)".

IJ. Inslallthe brake pedal as described in Chapter Ten. 14. InSlall the oil filter and refill the engine with Ihe recommended type and quantity of engine oil as described in Chapler Three.

RECOIL STARTER (SHAFT-DRIVEN 1'''10DELS)

Remonlll nstallat ion l. Place the ATV on level ground and SCI Ihe parking brake.

2. Remo\-e the boils securing the recoil starter assembly lind remove the assembly and gasket (Figure 108).

3. Install by rcve~ing these removal steps. Make sure to install a new gasket on the assembly prior to installation .

â&#x20AC;˘,

â&#x20AC;˘

,

78

CHAPTER FOUR

Disassembly and Starter Rope Remo,'.1 NOTE

I/you hal'/! been stranded with a broken starter rope. consider replacing the Suzuki staner rope with an qfiermarket l'inyl¡coomJ flexible wife cable. These cables Ofe QI'Qilabll' from many dealers and mail order houses and will outlast (hi' rope.

Refer to Figure 109 for Ihis procedure.

WARNING The return spring IS under pressure and may jump our during the disassembly

procedure. It is a \'ery sirong spring and may CUI fingers or cause eye injury.

Wear s(ljery glasses and g!o\'es when

disassembling and assembling.

I. Remove the cover from the starter handle and untie the knot in the starter rope or cut the rope.

2. Hold the starter rope with Vise Grips (A, Figure 110) and remove the starter handle from the rope.

3. Remove and discard the gasket.

RECOIL STARTER 2. Ratchet pin

3. Starter cup 4. lockwa.h.r 5. Nut

t . Ratch.t co".r 7. Ratchat gulda 8. Spring co".r 9. Spring

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

Collar DrI". pulley Spring

Cov.r Bolt

r,:;:r ~

79

ENGINE

4. Remove the nut (0. Figure 110) and ratchet cover (C, Figure 110),

5. Remove the ratchel guide (Figure 111 ), 6. Remove the ralchet (A, Figure 112) and the friction spring and cup (0 , figure 112), 7. Remove the Vise Grips and release the starter rope slowly into the housing.

WARNING The recoil spring may j ump 0111 at this lime-protect )'ourul/ Qccordingly.

8. Remove the drive pulley (c. Figure 112).

9. Unlie and remove the starter rope from the dri ve pulley, NOTE 1/ i.t a good idea 10 (('plaa' liIl' SlUrter

B

r ope (,I'ef), lim e the fecoil Slarter IS disassembled. Set> "OU! Of begilllllng of

proced1lre for fel}/ocelllen' cab/e.

10. Clean all parts in solvent and thoroughly dry.

11. Inspect all moving pans (Figure J 13) for wear or damage and replace as necessary.

â&#x20AC;˘

Assembly and Starter Rope Installation

...-"'"

A

~ -

J

B

I. Inslall a new staner rope In the drive pulley (A. Figure 114). Ir a stock Suzuki nylon rope IS used. tie a special knot al the end (Figure 115). Apply heal to thc knot (a match is sulflcient) and slighll)' melt the nylon rope. ThiS will hold the knot securely.

2. Apply multipurpose grease 10 thc housing shaft (A. Figure 116).

WARNING This step requires an assislallt as /I is rery dangerQus. and almos1 ImpOSSible. /0 ills/alllhe spring by )'Ourse(f 8 0lh of J'OII mils/ wear eye alld hand proleelion as the recoil sprillg could JUIIIP out al

any lime-p rotect yourself accordingl)'.

3. Install the recoil spring into the housi ng as rollows: a. Have Ihc assistant hold onto the cover so it will nOI rotate. b. Hook the end or the spring onto Ihc ouler hook (8 , Figure 116) in the cover. c. Hold Ihe end or the spring in place and stan reeding Ihc spring inlo Ihe housing in a clockwise direction. d. As you reed the spri ng into Ihe housing. have the assistant hold thc spring down after each loop is installed. The spring muSI be continually held in place or it will jump out. e. Continue 10 reed the spring In and hold it down unlil the entire sprmg is installed.

II

80

CHAPTER FOUR

[ After the spring is completely installed, do not move the cover and spring assembly, as at Ihis point the spring is under a lot of pressure and could jump out al any lime. PrOlecl yourself

and )'Our assistant accordingly.

4. Coil the rope onto the drive pulley in a clockwise direction (8 , Figure 114).

5. Position the end of the rope in the drive pulley so the stan er grip end is located within the notch (C. Figure 11 4) in the dri ve pulley.

6. Install the drive pulley into the cover and spring assembly while rotating it in a clockwise direction.

Make sure the rope is posi tioned up through the notch in the drive pulley. The tab (A, Figure 11 7) on the bottom of the drive pulley must engage with the hook (0, Figure 111) in the end of the recoil spring. If they engage, proceed to Step 9. If the 2 will nOI engage, care/ulfy remove Ihe drive pulley as Ihe spring could jump OUI allhis point. Use the procedure in Step 7 and Step 8.

7. Make a soft wire hook (do not use stiff wire) and hook it onlO the inner end of the recoil spring as shown in Figure 11 8. The other end of the hook musllay flat on lOp of the spring coils to allow the drive pulley to d rop into posi tion. The wire must be long enough so it can be pulled on.

8. Reinstall the drive pulley into the cover while rotating it in a C!oclo\'/se direction. Make sure the rope is positioned up through the notch in the drive pulley. When the dri ve pulley comes into contact with the recoil spring, pull sideways on the hook to bring the inner end of the recoil spring away from the shaft in the cover. Continue to rotate the dri ve pulley and push it the rest of the way down unt il it seats and engages with the spring hook. Hold the drive pulley down and pull the soft wire hook out from between the dri ve pulley and the spring.

9. Feed the rope out through the hole in the cover and make sure there is at least 12 in. of rope remaining outside of the opening in the cover.

A

\-• •

•

•

•

ENGINE

81 10. Install the rope through the starter handle and if a stock Suzuki nylon rope is used. tie the end using the same special knot as shown in Figure 115. Apply heat to the knot (a ma tch is usually sufficient) and slightly melt the nylon rope. This will hold the knot securely. Install the cover in the starter handle.

II. Apply a light coal of multipurpose grease to the ratchet and install the ratchet (Figure 119).

12. Install Ihe collar (Figure 120) onlO the threaded stud.

13. Install the spring, spring cover and ratchet guide (Figure 12 1).

14. Install the ratchet cover (Figure 122) and secure with the nut (Figure 123).

15. After the recoil starter is assembled, the spring tension must be set as fo llows: a. Rotate the drive pulley until the notch is aligned with the area in the cover where the rope exits. b. Pull the handle end of the rope up out of the drive pulley and inlO the notch (Figure 124 ) in the drive pulley. c. Within the cover, hold the rope up and make sure it stays in the notch. The rope must stay in the notch during the next step or all rope slack (out past the cover) will be taken up. d. Rotate the reel clockWISe 3 to 4 complete revolutions to wind up the spring. e. Move the rope out of the notch in the drive pulley and down into the drive pulley.

16. After assembly is complete, check the operation of the recoil starter by pulling on the starter handle. Make sure the drive pulley rotates freely and returns completely. Also make sure the ratchet moves out and in correctly. If either does not operate correctly, disassemble and correct the problem.

17. Inspect the slots in the starter cup. If they are damaged, the starter cup should be replaced as follows: a. Remove the nut and washer (Figure 125) securing the starter cup and remove the starter cup. b. Install the starter cup, washer and nut.

Tighten the nut securely.

STARTER GEARS (SHAFT-DRIVEN MODEl .s)

Removal/ Insta llation I. Remove the seat.

2. Disconnect the battery negative lead.

4

82

CHAPTER FOUR

3. Pull back the rubber boot and disconnect the electrical connector from the starter mOlor (Figure 126).

4. Remove the bolts (Figure 127) securing the starter motor. Pull the starter mOlor toward the right-hand side and remove the starter motor.

S. Remove the reeoil slarter as described in Ihis chapter.

6. Remove the nul and washer (Figure 128) securing the recoil starter cup and remove the cup.

7. Remove the bolts securing the alternator cover (Figure 129) and remove the cover. Don', lose locating dowels nor the crankshaft spacer and O-ring when the cover is removed. The spacer may stay in the cover or on the crankshan.

8. Withdraw the staner idle gear shaft and remove the idle gears (Figure 130) from the crankcase.

9. Inspect for chipped or missing teeth on the starter gears (Figure 131 ). Replace the gears if necessary.

10. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the rollowing.

I I . Apply multipurpose grease to the Q-ring and crankshaft spacer (Figure 132) and install the O-ring and spacer onto the crankshaft (Figure 133).

12. Install a new gasket (A, Figure 134) and locating dowels (B, Fililure 134) on Ihe crankcase.

13. Install the alternator cover and tighten the bolts securely.

SECO NDARY BEVEL GEA R AND DRIVE GEA R S ET (SHAlT-DRI VEN M ODELS) Remorai/ imiia lialion Refer to Figure I3S for this procedure.

I. Remove the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

2. Remove the recoil Sianer assembly as described in this chapler.

83

ENGINE

•

SECONDARY BEVEL GEAR SET 1. O.ring 2. Locating dowel 3. O-ring

10. Locknut 11 . Locating dowel

12. Secondary drtva ahaft 13. Bearing

• . Inner cu.

'4. Output cam 15. Spring

5. Shim (5 dillerani thlckn ..... ) 8. Secondary baval gear .. I

16. Spring stopper

17. Oil seal 18. Secondary driven couptlng

7. Plug 8. Wuher 9. Bolt

19. Stopper

5

6

6

14

&S@@)~ ~ ~""

15

13

II

3 18

19

I

CHAPTER FOU R

84 NOTE

LT-F23OG models are nO! equIpped with a rubber boot.

3. On LT230G models, slide the rubber boot (A, Figure 136) back off the secondary gear housing.

4. Remove the bolts securing the secondary gear housing outer case (8, Figure 136). Using a rubber mallet or soft faced mallet, tap on the perimeter of the outer case to break il loose, then remove the outer case. Oon', lose the locating dowels.

5. Pull out on the front of the secondary gear assembly (A, Figure 137), then withdraw the assembly from the universal joint (0, Figure 137) or the subtransmission.

6. Straighten the locking lab on the locknut (A, Figure 138) out of the groove in the transmission

shaft.

7, Remove the nul and washer (FIgure 128) securing the recoil staner cup and remove the cup.

8. Remove the bolts securing the ailemator cover and remove the cover and gasket. Don't lose the locating dowels, 9. To prevent the secondary bevel drive gear from turning during the neltt step, perform the following; a. Shift the transmission into gcar. b. Use a strap wrench (FiKure 139) on the alternator rotor and keep the rotor fro m turning.

10. Remove the locknut (8 , FIgure 138) securing the secondary bevel d rive gear and remove the bevel drive gear and the shim(s) Ihat are behind the gear.

II. Remove the bolts (Figure 140) securing the secondary gear housing inner case and remove the inner case. Don't lose the locating dowel (A, Figure 141), but discard the O-ring seals (B, Figure 14 1) as they must be replaced.

12. Install by reversing these removal Sleps, noting the fo llowing,

r(,~~--::======:=------l

Ii39' ~

8S

ENGINE

13. Inslall the locating dowel (A. Figure 141) and new O-ring seals (U. Figure 141 ) onl0 the cran kcase prior 10 installing the inner case. New O-rings 3rc necessary \0 prevent an oil leak.

14. Make sure the shim(s) are in place on the backside of the secondary bevel gear.

15. Use the tool setup used in Slep 9 and tighten Ihe secondary bevel gear locknut to the torque specificat ion listed in Table 2.

16. Remove all old sealant residue from the mating surfaces of the inner and outer case. ..

17. Install the gear assembly and make sure the . front hearing set (Figure 142) is properly seated in the groove in the inner case.

18. Appl y a light coal or sealant (Three Ilond 1104 or equivalent) to the mating surface of the ou ter case. Install the locating dowels and install the ou ter casco Tighten the bolts securely.

Inspection If any pans of the secondary gear set assembly are damaged, take the assembly to a Suzuki dealer for service. Special tools are requi red for disassembly and assembly. If any componenlS of the assembly are replaced, the secondary gear sh im adjustment procedure must be performed in order 10 set gear lash and adjustment. This procedure must also be performed by a Suzuki dealer.

I. Check the secondary bevel drive gear for chipped or missing teeth (Figure 143). Replace if necessary.

2. Inspect the inner splines (Figure 144) in the secondary bevel drive gear fo r wear or damage.

Replace if necessary.

3. Check the secondary bevel gear for chipped or missing teeth (Figure 145). Replace if necessary.

4. Inspect the ramps (Fifllure 146) of the cams for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

5. Inspect the splines (Figure 147) oflhe secondary driven coupler for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

86

CHAPTER FOUR

6. Inspect the bearings at each end of the shan assembly. Refer 10 Figure J48 and Figure 149.

Each hearing must rotate free ly with no binding; replace if necessary.

C RAN KCASE AN D CRA NKSHAFT Disassembly of the crankcase (splitti ng the cases) and removal of the crankshaft assembly require that the engine be removed from the frame.

The crankcase is made in 2 halves of precision diecast aluminum alloy and is of the "thin -walled" type. To avoid damage, do not hammer or pry on any of the interior or exterior projected walls.

These areas are easily damaged. The cases are split vertically down the centerline of the connecting rod. The cases are assembled withoul a gasket between the 2 halves. Dowel pins align the halves when they are boiled together.

The crankshaft assembly is made up of 2 full-circle flywheels pressed together on a hollow crankpin. The connecting rod big end bearing on the crankpin is a needle bearing assembly. The crankshaft assembly is supported in 2 ball bearings in the crankcase. Service to the crankshaft assembly is limited to removal and replacement.

The procedure which follows is presented as a complete. step路by路step, major lower end rebuild that should be followed if an engine is to be completely reconditioned. However, if you're replacing a part that you know is defective. the disassembly should be carried out only until the failed part is accessible; there is no need to disassemble the engine beyond that point so long as you know the remaining components are in good condition and that they were not affected by the failed part.

Crankcue Disassembly I. Remove all exterior engine assembl ies as described in this chapter and ot her related chapters: a. Cylinder head. b. Cylinder and piston. c. Cam chain and cam chain tensioner assembly. d. Clutch assembly. e. Kickstarter (chain-driven models). f. Recoil starter (shaft路driven models). g. Alternator or magneto. h. Secondary gear assembly and secondary drive gear (shan路driven models). i. External shift mechan ism. j. Oil pump. k. Starter mOlOr and starter gears (shan-driven models).

87

ENG INE

2. Remove the engine as described in this chapter.

3A. On shall-driven models. remove Ihe reverse safety switch (A. Figure I SO).

3B. On all models, remove the reverse shin cam stopper holder. spring and stopper (R Figure ISO).

4. Defore removing the crankcase screws. cut a cardboard template approxImatel y the size of Ihc crankca§('" and punch holes in the templale for each screw local ion. Place each screw in thc tcmplate hole as il is removed. T his will speed up Ihc assembly time by eliminating the search for Ihe correct length screw.

SA. On shaft-driven models. remove the bolts from the left-hand crankcase side that secure the crankcase halves togcther (Figure l SI). To prevem warpage, loosen them in a crisscross patlem.

58. On chain-driven models. remove the bolts from Ihe left-hand crankcase side that secure the crankcase halves together (Figure 152 ). To prevent warpage. loosen them in a crisscross pattem .

NOTE

Set the engine on wood blocks or fabricate a holding fixture of 2X4 mcll lI"ood as shown III Figure 153.

CAUTION Perform Ihe next step directl)" 0I'er am/ dose to Ihe workbench as tlte crankcase hall"{'S ma)' separate easilr Do not hammer 01/ the crankcase hahes or Iher )\"/1/ be damaged.

@

6. Hold onlO the right-hand crankcase and studs and tap on the righi-hand end of Ihe cmnkshnft and transmission shans with a plastic or rubber mallet until the crankshaft and crankcase separale.

7. If the crankcase and crankshaft will not separate using this method, check to make sure that all screws arc removed. If you still have a problem . it rna) be necessary 10 use a puller to remove Ihe right-hand crankcase half. Many universal pullcrs arc available or use Ihc Suzuki puller (part No. 09920¡13 I 20). Ifthc proper tools are not avai lable. take the crankcase assembly to a dealer and have i,

4

88

CHAPTER FOUR

separated. Do not risk expensive crankcase damage with improper tools or techniques.

NOTE Nfl'ef pry between case ha/l'(>s. Doing

so may resull in oil leaks, requiring

replacement of the case hah-es.

8. Don't lose the locating dowels if they came out of the case. They do not have to be removed from

the case if they are secure.

9. Lin up and carefully remove the transmission. shirl drum and shift fork shaft assemblies.

10. The crankshaft can be removed allhis lime, if desired. The crankshaft is installed in the left-hand crankcase main bearing with a press fit. Install the same puller used during crankcase separation in the threaded holes in the left-hand crankcase and carefully pull the crankshaft out of the left-hand main bearing.

CAUTION Do nOl uy to drire the crankshaft Ol/t of

Ihe main bearing with a hammer or crankshaft alignment may be diSlUrbed.

II. Inspect the crankcase halves and crankshaft as described in this chapter.

Crankcase Assembl}'

1. Apply assembly oil to the inner race of all bearings in both crankcase halves.

NOTE SRt the crankcase half assE'mbly on M'OOlien blocks or the wooden holdmg fixturE' shown in the disassembly proCl'durE'.

2. Install the transmission assemblies, shift shafts and shin drum in the left-hand crankcase half and lightly oil all shaft ends. Refer to Chapter Five for the correct procedure.

3. If the crankshaft was removed. have it installed by a dealer as special tools are required to pull the crankshaft into the left-hand main bearing.

CAUTION Do not attempt to dm'e thE' crankshaft into thE' left-hand main bearing with a hammer or mallet or the crankshaft alignment will be distllrbed.

NOTE

Make slire the mating slir/aces are clean and free of all old sealant material. Make slire ,rOil get a leak-free seal.

4. Install the locating dowels (FiRure 154) if they were removed and install a new O-ring seal (Figure ISS) on the left-hand half.

S. Apply a light coat of sealant \0 the sealing surface of the right-hand crankcase half. Use a non-hardening sealant like Three-4 bond or equivalent.

6. Set the upper crankcase half over the one on the blocks. Push it down squarely into place until it reaches the crankshaft bearing. There is usually about 112 inch left to go.

7. Lightl y tap the case halves together with a plastic or rubber mallet until they seat.

CAUTION Crankcase hah'es sholild fit together without force. If the crankcase hall'es do not fit together completely. do not attempt to pull them together with the crankcase screws.

Separate the crankcase hall'es and im'estigate the cause of the interference. If the transmissiOIl shafts were disassembled, recheck fO make Sllre that a gear is lIot inSlOlle(J backwards. Do 1101 risk damage by trying 10 force the cases loge/her.

8. After the crankcase halves are completely assembled, rotate the crankshaft and transmission

ENGINE

89 d. e. [ g. h.

Clutch assembly.

Klckstaner (chain-driven models).

Rcroil staner (shaft-driven models).

Alternator or magneto.

Secondary gear assembly and secondary drive gear (shaft-driven models). i. External shift mechanism. j. Oil pump. k. Staner motor and stan er gears (sha ft-driven models).

Crankcllse and Cranks haft Ins pection

shafts to make sure there is no bindmg. If an} is present, d isassemble the crankcase and correct the problem.

9A. On shafl driven models, install the bolts on the left-hand side that secure the crankcase halves together (Figure 151). Tighten only finger-tight, 98. On chain-driven models, install the bolts on the left-hand side that secure the crankcase halves together (Figure 152). Tighten only finger-light.

10. Securely tighten the screws in 2 siages in a crisscross pattern until they are firmly hand-tight.

[IA. On shafHlrivcn models, install the reverse safety switch (A, Figure ISO) and tighten \0 the torque specification listed in T a ble 2. [ I B. On all models. instal! the reverse shift cam stopper, spring and holder (B, FiRure 150) and tighten 10 the torque specification listed in Table 2.

12. After the crankcase halves are completely assembled. again rotate the crankshaft and transmission shafts to make sure there is no binding. If any is prescnt, disassemble the crankcase and correct the problem.

13. Install all exterior engine assemblies as described in this chapter and other related chapters: a. Cylinder head. b. Cylinder and piston. c. Cam chain and cam chain tensioner assembly.

4

I. C lean both crankcase halves inside and out with cleaning solvent. Thoroughly dry with compressed air and wipe offwith a dean shop cloth. Be sure to remove all traces of old gasket material from all mating surfaces.

2. Check the transmission bearings (A, Figure 156) for roughness, pitting. ga ll ing and play by rotating them slowly by hand. If any roughness o r play can be felt in a bearing, it must be replaced.

3. Carefully inspect the cases for cracks and fractures, especially in the lower areas: they are vulnerable to rock damage. Also check the areas around the stiffening ribs. around bearing bosses and threaded holes. If damage is found, have them repaired by a shop specializing in the repair of precision aluminum castings or replace them.

4. Make sure the crankcase studs (B, Figure 156) are tight in each case hal[ Retighten ir necessary.

5. Check the crankshaft main bearings (C, Figure 156) for roughness, pitting. galling and play by rotating them slowly by hand. If any rough ness or play can be felt in the bearing it must be replaced.

This must be entrusted to a dealer as special tools are required. The cam chain sprocket and oil pump drive gear must also be removed and realigned properly upon installation, 6. Inspect the cam chain sprocket fo r wear or missing teeth. If the sprocket is damaged, the left-hand ponion of the crankshaft or the entire crankshaft must be replaced.

7. Measure the insidc diameter of the connecting rod small end with a snap gauge and an inside micrometer (Figure 157). Compare to dimensions given in Table I. If worn to the service limi t the crankshart assembly must be replaced.

8. Check the connecting rod big end bearing by grnsplOg the rod in one hand and lifting up on it.

With the heel of your other hand, rap sharply 'on the lOp of the rod. A sharp metallic sound, such as a click, is an indication that the bearing or crankpin or both are worn and the crankshaft assembly should be replaced.

90

CHAPTER FOUR

9. Check the connecting rod¡ to-crankshaft side clearance with a flat feeler gauge (Figure ISS).

Com pare to dimensions given in Table I . If the clearance is greater than specified the crankshaft assembly must be replaced.

10. Other inspections of the crankshaft assembly involve accurate measuring equipment and should be entrusted to a dealer or competent machine shop. The crankshaft assembly operates under severe stress and dimensional tolerances are critical. These dimensions are given in Table I. If any are off by the slightest amount it may cause a considerable amount of damage or destruction of the engine. The crankshaft assembly must be replaced as a unit as il cannot be serviced without the aid of a 10-12 ton (9,000-11,000 kilogram) capacity press, holding fi:\tures and crankshaft jig.

II. Inspect the oil seals. They should be replaced every time the crankcase is disassembled. Refer to Bearing and Oil Seal Replacemem in this chapter.

Bearing and Oil Seal Replacement I. Pry out the oil seals with a small screwdriver. taking care not to damage the crankcase bore. If the seals are old and difficult to remove, heat the cases as described in Step 2 and use an awl to punch a small hole in the steel backing of the seal. Install a small sheet metal screw pan way into the seal and pull the seal out with a pair of pliel1i (Figure 159).

CAUTION Do nOl install the screw 100 deep or /I may comact and damage the bearing behind it.

1. On bearings so equipped. remove the screws securing the bearing retainer plate (Figure 160) and remove the retainer plate.

3. The bearings nre installed with a slight interference fi t. The crankcase must be heated in an oven to a temperature of about 212' F (100' q. An easy way to check the proper temperature is to drop tiny drops of water on the case; if they sizzle and evaporate immediately, the temperature IS correct. Heat only one case at a time.

CAUl'ION Do nOi heat the cases wilh a torch (propane or aCe'{J'iene): nel'(!r bring a flame inlo COnlaCI wllh the bearing or case. The dirOCI heat will deSlfoy the case hardening of the bearing and will likely cause warpage of the case.

4. Remove the case from the oven and hold onto the 2 crankcase studs with a kitchen pot holder, heavy gloves or heavy shop cloths-it is hOi.

S. Remove the oil seals if not already removed (see Step I).

6. Hold the crankcase with the bearing side down and tap il squarely on a piece of soft wood.

Con tinue to tap un til the bearing(s) fall out. Repeat for the other half.

CAUTION Be slIre to tap the crankcase sqllarely on Ihe piece of wood. Al'Oid damaging (he sealing sur/ace of the crankcase.

7. If the bearings are difficult to remove, they can be gen tly tapped OU I with a socket or piece of pipe the same size as the bearing outer race.

NOTE If the bearings or seals are difficult 10 remore or install. don', take a chance on expensire damage. /-Jare the work performed by a dealer or competem machine shop.

8. While heating up the crankcase halves, place the new bearings in a freezer if possible. Chilling them ..... ill slightly reduce their overall diameter while the hot crankcase is slightly larger due 10 heal

ENGI NE

91

160

8 eltpansion. This will make bearing installation much easier.

9. While the crankcase is still hot, press each new bearing(s) imo place in the crankcase by hand until it seats completely. Do not hammer it in. If the bearing will not seat, remove it and cool it again.

Reheat the crankcase and install the bearing again.

10. Oil seals are best installed with a special 1001 available at a dealer or motorcycle supply store.

However, a proper size socket or piece of pipe can be substituted. Make sure that the bearings and seals are not cocked in the crankcase hole and that they are seated properly.

BREA K· IN PROCEDURE If the rings were replaced, a new piston installed, the cylinder rebored or honed or major lower end work perfonned, the engine should be broken in just as though it were new. The performance and service life of the engine depend greatly on a careful and sensible break-in.

For the first S-IO hours of operation, no more than one-third throttle should be used and speed

should be varied as much as possible within the one-thi rd throttle limit. Prolonged steady running at one speed, no matter how moderate, is to be avoided as well as hard acceleration.

Following the firs' 5-10 hours of operation, more throttle should not be used until the ATV has run for 100 hours, then it should be limited to short bursts of speed until 150 hours have been logged.

The mono-grade oils recommended for break-in and normal use provide a better bedding pattern for rings and cylinder than do multi-grade oils. As a result, piston ring and cylinder bore life are greatly increased. During Ihis period, oil consumption will be higher than normal. It is therefore important to frequently check and correct oil leveL At no time, during the break-in or later, should the oil level be allowed to drop below the bottom line on the dipstick; if the oi l level is low, the oil will become overheated resulting in insufficient lubrication and increased wear.

Service After 10 Hours Of O peration It is essential that the oil be changed and the oil filte r rOlOr and filter screen be cleaned after the first 10 hours of operation. In addition, it is a good idea to change the oil and clean the oil filter rotor and filter screen at the completion of the 100 hours of operation to ensure that all of the particles produced during break-in are removed from the lubrication system. The small added expense may be considered a smart investment that will payoff in increased engine life.

T.bl. 1 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

••m

W ••r limi t

General

T,pe

4-llrok e, air-c ooled, SOHC

Number of cylinde~ Bore and I trok e

1 68.0 X e7.0 m m (2.598 X 2.lS38 In.) 229 cc (1 4.0 c u. In.) 9.0 to 1

Di splacement Compression ral10 CMnpre sslon pressure (at s •• level) Standard Service limit (min.)

Lubrication Cylinder

....

Out of round Piston/cylinder clearance

1,200·1,800 kPa ( 171· 228 psi) 1,000 kP. (142 psi) Wat aump

66.000-68.015 mm (2.5985·2.5990 In.) 0.04-0.05 mm (0.0016-0.0020 In.) (continued)

66.090 mm (2.802 In .)

0.004 In. (0.10 mm) 0.120 mm (0.0047 In.)

92

CHAPTER FOUR Table 1 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Icontlnued, Uem

PistOl'1 Diameter

Pilton pin bofe Pillon pin ouler diameter

Speclflcallons

W•• r limit

65.955·69.970 mm (2.5966-2.5972 in.)

18.002-18.008 mm (0.6300·0.6302 In.) 15.996·16.000 In. (0.6298-0.6299 In.)

65.a80 mm (2.5937 In.)

16.030 mm (0.6311 in.)

15.960 mm (.06291 in.)

Piston Ring.

Number 01 ring.

Compr...lon

2

Oil control Ring end gap Top and .econd

0.1 0·0.25 mm (0.004·0.010 in.)

0.70 mm (0.028 in.)

Ring side clearance

Top and ..tond Connecting Rod Small end inner diameter

Crankshaft Runou!

Connecting rod big end aide cl •• rance Camshaft

0.180 In. (0.0071 in.)

16.006-16.014 mm (0.6302·0.6305 in.)

0.10·0.45 mm (0.0039·0.0177 In.)

16.040 mm (0.6315 In.)

0.05 mm (0.002 In.) 1.00 mm (0.039 In.)

Cam lobe height Intake Shaft·drlven Ch.ln·dri....n

Exhaust Shaft-driven Chain-driven

Cam joumal outer diameter Cam jouma' holder inner diameter Cam journal 011 clearance

33.780-33.620 mm (1.3299-1.3004 In.) 34.166·34.208 mm (1.3451·1.3487 In.)

33.410 mm (1.3181 In.)

32.990·33.030 mm (1.21188·1 .3004 In.) 33.464-33.504 mm (1.3175-1.3191 in.)

21.959-21.980 mm (0.8645·0.8654 In.)

32.690 mm (1 .2870 In.)

22.012·22.025 mm (0.8668·0.8671 In.) 0.032·0.066 mm (0.0013-0.00211 In.)

Runout Cam chain

20-pitch length Vllv•• V.I ......tem outer diameter Inteke

V.I.... guide mner diameter Intake and e.hault

33.868 mm (1.3333 In.)

33.1&4 mm (1.3057 In.)

0.150 mm (0.0059 in.)

0.10 mm (0.004 In.) 129.0 mm (5.08 In.)

5.474·5.490 mm (0.2155-0.2181 In.) 5.455-5.470 mm (0.2148-0.2153 in.)

5.500-5.512 mm (0.2185·0.2170 In.) (continued)

ENGINE

93 Table 1 ENGINE SPECIFICATIOHllcontinued) W •• r limit

Item Stem to guide clearance Intake

0.010·0.037 in.

(0.0004-0 .0015 in.)

0.030-0.057 In. (0.0012·0 .0022 In.)

Exhaust Vallie aeal width Inlake and •• hauI'

0.35 mm (0.014 In.) 0.35 mm (0.014 In.)

0.9-1.1 mm (O.03S.().043 In.)

Vatve springs free length (intake and uhauII) 35.1 mm (1 .38 In.) 39.9 mm (1 .57 In.)

Inner spring Outer spring

Rocker ann "'8mb)' 12.000-12.018 mm (0.4724· 0.4731 in.)

I t .in·1UI9S mm (0.4715-0.4722 In.)

Rocker arm bore 1.0.

Rocker arm shatt 0 .0 .

0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

Table 2 ENGINE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

ft.·lb .

9-11

U ·S

7-"

5-' 15· 18 5-' 7·8.5

Rocker arm Ihatt bolt

21 · 25 1·11 10· 12 8-10

Tensloner adjust boH

' -8

4.5·8

150· 170 50·80 80·80 90·110 8· 12 7· 10 20·25 80-100

108·123 38·43.5 43.5·58 85·80 8-8.5

80-12

44-52

37-45 40·80

27-32 29-43

18-28 80·72

13-20 43-52

18·28 80-95 80-95

13·20 58-88 58-88

Cylinder head cover bolt

Cylinder head

15 mm nut.

8 mm nuts Cylinder base nut Cam sprocket bolt

Altemalor rotor nut Sheft-driven Chein·driven Primery drive gee, locknut Secondery bevel geer locknut Oil pre..ure check bolt Oil pump mounting screwe 011 drein plug Drive Iprocket nut Engine mounting botIs end null Shaft-driven (III botIl end nuts) Chain drive Cylinder heed cover brecket 8mm 10 mm Lower fronl mounting brlcket 'mm 10 mm Upper reer mounting bracket .mm 10 mm Lower reer through boll end nul

,-,

514.5-18 -' 58·12

CHAPTER FIVE

CLUTCH AND TRANSM ISSION

This chapter contains service procedures for the centrifugal and mechanical clutch assemblies, shift mechanisms, the transmissions and the dual-range subtransmission. Tables 1-4 are at the end of this chapter.

CLUTCH OPERATION There are 2 different types of clutch mechanisms used among the various models. The shaft-driven models use both a centrifugal and manual clutch mechanism to transit power from the engine to the transmission. The chain-driven model uses on ly a manual type clutch mechanism. All clutch types are immersed in the oil supply they share with the engine and transmission.

Centrifugal a nd Manual Clutches (Shaft-dri ven Models) The centrifugal clutch is mounted on the right-hand end of the crankshaft. The main components of this clutch are the primary drive gear, clutch shoe assembly and a one-way clutch which allows the primary drive gear to rotate in one direction only. The primary drive gear is not driven directly by the crankshaft, but by the centrifugal clutch weights attached to a hub that is splined to the crankshaft. As the engine rpm increases, the centrifugal weights are forced out against the primary drive gear, thus driving and rotating the primary drive gear. When engine speed

decreases, 3 perimeter coil springs retract the weights to disengage the wcights from the primary drive gear. A gear on the backside of the primary drive gear meshes with the gear on the manual clutch outer housing. The one¡ way clutch not only allows the outer housing to rotate in one direction, but also allows engine compression to be used to slow down the vehicle when the centrifugal clutch weights are not engaged (when coasting).

The manual clutch is a wet multiplate type and is activated by the gearshift linkage. The clutch outer housing is driven by the centrifugal clutch while the clutch center is splined to the transmission main shaft. When the gearshift lever is moved 10 shift gears it also activates the clutch lifting mechanism, releasing the clutch.

Both clutch mechanisms can be removed with the engine in the frame.

Manual Clutch (Chaln-dril"en Models) The manual clutch is a wet multi plate type that is mounted on the right-hand end of the transmission main shaft. The inner clutch hub is splined to the main shaft and the outer clutch housing can rotate freely on the main shaft. The outer clutch housing is geared to the crankshaft.

The clutch release mechanism is mounted within the clutch cover and is operated by the clutch cable and hand lever mounted on the handlebar.

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

9S

8989898989

B

10

MANUAL AND CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH (SHAFT.DRIVEN MODELS)

lgj:::

J~A~~ ~

5. Locknut

6. Washer 7. Clutch cen ter

10. Pressure plate 11 . Clutch outer housing

8. Friction disc 9. Clutch plate

12. Spacer 13. L.ockwaaher

19

14. Clutch I hoe as.embly 15. Inner race 16. One¡way clutch

d6~ 17. Washer lB. Needle bearing 19. Circlip 20. Primary drive gelr

CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH Remo\a l

Refer \0 Figure I for this procedure.

J. Place the ATV on level ground and set the. parking brake.

2. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

3. Remove the seal and the front and rear fenders as described in Chapler Eleven.

4. Remove the rear brake pedal as described in Chapler Ten .

5. Remove the bolts (Figure 2) securing the foot rest assembly and remove the assembly, 6. Remove the bolts securing the clutch release cover and remove the cover and gasket.

7. Remove the nuts securing the oil fi lter cover (Figure 3). Remove the oil filter cover, spring and oil filter.

8. Remove the staner (A, Figure 4) as described in Chapter Seven .

. .

CHAPTER FIVE

96 9. Remove the bolts !ie<"uring the clutch cover (8, Figure 4) and remove the cover and gasket. Don't rorget the bolt (e, Figure 4) within the oil filter

recess in the crankcase cover. Don '\ lose thc locating dowels.

10. Place a soft copper washer (copper penny) or shop cloth into mesh with the gears on the backside of the centrifugal primary drive gear and thc dutch outer housing (A, Figure 5). This will prevent Ihc primary drive gear from turning during Ihc next slep.

CAUTION

The nut in the following step has t,/t./ra"d threads. Loosen it by furning il clockwise.

11. Remove the nut (B, Figure 5) securing thc centrifugal primary drive gear to thc cranksha ft .

Remember, tum the wrench clockWise.

12. Remove the lockwasher.

13. Slide off Ihe clutch shoe assembly (Figure 6).

There is no spring tension to worry about during the removal of this component.

NOTE Proceed to Step /9 unless Ihe manllal clutch is going 10 be remOlm also.

14. If the manual clutch is goi ng to be removed, loosen the locknut at this time as you will need the primary drive gear to aid in removal. If not, proceed to Step 20.

15. Place a soft copper washer (or copper penny) or shop cloth (figure 7) into mesh with the gears on the backside of the centrifugal primary drive gear and the clutch outer housing. This is 10 keep the manual clutch outer housing from rotating while removing the locknut.

16. Remove the bolts (Figure 8) securing the lifter plate, lifter guide and ball bearing. Remove the lifIer guide assembly.

17. Remove the clutch springs.

18. Loosen the clutch locknut (A, Figure 9).

â&#x20AC;˘

,,-

. ..-...._~ 1 -

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

97 19. Remove the copper washer (or copper penny) or shop cloth.

20. Slide off the primary drive gear (8. Figure 9), 21. Slide the collar (A, Figure 10) off th e crankshafi.

22. Remove the circti p (8 , Figure 10) and slide off the roller bearing (C. Figure 10).

Inspedion I. Clean all pans in petroleum-based solven t such as kerosene and thoroughly dry with compressed

ÂŽ

air.

2. Rotate the inner race within the one-way clutch (A, Figure 11 ), It should only rotate clockwiSl'. Ifil will rotate coun terclockwise, even the Sligh test amount, it is defective and must be replaced.

3. Inspect the drive gear teeth on the primary drive gear (Figure 12), Remove any small nicks on the gear teeth wilh an oilstone. If damage is severe, the primary drive gear must be replaced. Also check the teeth on the manual dutch outer housing: it may also need replac:ing.

4. Inspect the inside contact surface oflhe primary drive gear (8, Figure II) for scratches, scori ng o r heat damage (bluish lint). Abnormal wear is unlikely unless Ihe friction surface of Ihe dutch shoe assembly is worn past the lim it and metal-to-metal contact has occurred. Replace the primary drive gear if the shoe surface is not in perfect condition. If there are indicat ions of heat damage. the primary drive gear may be distorted and must be replaced.

5. Check the springs (A, Figure 13) on the du tch shoe assembly. If the springs are stretched or distoned in any way, the du tch shoe assembly must be replaced.

6. Examine the frictio n fac ing on the clutch shoe assembly (8, Figure 13). If the shoes are worn so that none of the grooves in the friclion material remajn (Figure 14), the clutch shoe assembly must be replaced.

7. Inspect the clutch lifting mechanism in the dutch cover as described in this chapter.

ÂŽ

98

CHAPTER FIVE

Installalion 1. Slide on the roller bearing, install the CifCiip on the crankshaft , then slide on the collar.

NOTE

Proceed to Slep 8

if the manual clutch

lI'as nOi remOI'ed.

1. Install the lockw3sher (Figure 15) and locknut (figure 16).

3. Align the oil hole in the inner race (located wi thin the one-way clutch) with the oil hole in the crankshaft and sl ide on the primary drive gear (B, Figure 9). This alignment is necessary for proper o il flow.

4. Place a soft copper washer (or copper penny) or shop clOIh (Figure 7) in to mesh with the gears on

the backside of the centrifugal primary drive gear and the dutch oUler housing. This is 10 kee p the manual clutch outer housing from rotating while tightening the lock nu t.

5. Tighten the locknut to the torque specification listed in Table 1.

6. Temporarily install 2 opposing clutch bolts into the pressure plate. PuJl on the bolts and make sure the pressure plate has pulled the friction disc and clutch plates up against the backside of the clutch center. If this is not correct, slightly jiggle the bolts in order to align the notches in the pressure plate with the grooves in the clutch center. Once alignment is correct, pull on the backside of the pressure plate and keep it in this position.

WARNING

Proper alignment belween Ihl' pressure plate and the clll/eh center mllst be aehiel'ffl be/ore lhe clutch springs are inslalled and Ihe bollS lightened. 1/ the bolts are lightened and Ihe alignml'm IS nOI correct, the first lime Ihl' clllleh is operated. Ihesl' 2 pam will shift, the pressllre plQle will more Oil/ward and the cluleh bolls will be loose. Clluch operation will be erratic and unsafe.

7. Remove the 2 bolts installed in Step 6.

8. Install the clutch springs and the lifter plale assembly and inslal1 the bolts. Once again. check tha t the pressure plale is snug up agai nst the fri ction discs and clutch plates prior to tightening the clutch bolts.

9. Tighten the bolts securely in a crisscross pallem.

NOTE If Ihe clilleh shoe asSÂŁ>mbl)l was replaced, appl)' new engine oil /0 all

99

CLUTCH AND TRA NSM1SSION

surfaces 10 amid naring the clutch lock up when used for the fiw lime.

10. Slide on Ihe clutch snoe assembly (FIgure 6) and the lockwasher (Figure 11).

CAUTION

The nUl in the following step has

I

{'It-hand lhreads. Tighlen by /IIming;1 counterclockwise.

NOTE II is a good Idea /0 ;nstall a new locknut erer,)' 2nd or j,d time if is remol'M. II. Inslall the nut (B, Figure 5) securing the centrifugal primary dri ve gear 10 the cran kshaft.

Remember !Urn the wrench counterclockwise and ...--~ tighten the nullO Ihe torque specification listed in Tabl e I. 12. In stall a new gasket (A. Figure 18) and localing dowels (B. Figure 18), 13. Align the pin on Ihe dutch release arm (A, Figure 19) with the nOlch in the clutch lmer cam (8. Figure 19).

14. Install the cl utch cover (B, Figure 4). Make sure the pin on the clutch release arm is properl y meshed With the notch in the clutch lifter cam (Figure 20). If this alignment is not correc\. the transmission will nOI shifl.

15. Inslalilhe clulch cover boilS. Don'l forgellhe bolt (C, Figure 4) within the oil filter recess in Ihe crankcase cover. Tigh ten the bolts 5e(urely in a crisscross panern.

16. Install the starter (A. Figure 4) as described in Chapter Seven.

17. Make sure the O-ring seal is in place on the raised boss In the oil filter receptacle in the clutch cover.

18. In slall the oil filter (Figure 21).

19. Make sure the spring (A . Figure 22) and O-ring seal (8, Figure 22) are in place in the oi l fi ller cover and install the cover.

20. I nstall the nuts securing the oil fillcr cover and tighten securely.

21. Install the clutc h release cover and gasket and tighten Ihe boilS securely.

22. lnslall the foot rest assembly and tighten the bolts securely.

23. Install the rear brake pedal as described in Chapter Ten. 24. Install the seat and the fronl and rear fenders as described in Chapler Eleven.

25. Refill the engine with the recommended Iype and qua ntity of engine oil as describc..-d in Chapler Three.

26. Slart Ihe engi ne and check for oil leaks.

27. Adjust the clutch as described in Chapter Three.

100

CHAPTER FIVE MANUAL CLUTCH (SHAFf-DRIVEN MODELS)

RemoraUDisassemblr

Refer to Figure I for this procedure. The centrifugal clutch has to be removed prior to removing the manual clutch.

I. Remove the manual clutch lifter plate assembly, clutch spri ngs. the manual clutch locknut and lock washer as described under Cemrijugal Clwch Remol'Q/ in this chapter.

2. Remove the centrifugal clutch as described in this chapter, 3. Remove the clutch cen ter, plales. discs and pressure plate (Figure 23) as an assembly.

4. Remove the thrust washer (Figure 24), 5. Remove the clutch outer housing (Figure 25) and spacer (Figure 26), 6. Remove the thrust washer (Figure 27).

7. Inspect all components as described in Ihis chaplcr.

Assem bly/ lnstallalion NOTE

If new friclion discs and dutch plales arl? bl?ing inSlalled. apply new engine oil 10 all surfaces 10 amid hal'lng Ille cllltch lock liP when used for lilt> firsl lime.

I. Working at your workbench, install a rriction disc (Figure 28) and then a clutch plate onto the clutch cenler. Con tinue 10 install a rriction disc, then a clutch pillte. and alternate them until all are installed. The last item installed is a rriction disc (Figure 29).

2. Align the punch marks on the clutch center and the pressure plate (Figure 30) and install the pressure plate (Figure 31 ).

3. Install the thrust washer (Figure 27) and the spacer (Figure 26) onto lhe transmission main shaft.

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

101 4. Install the clutch outer housing (Figure 25) and the thrust washer (Figure 24).

5. Sl ide on the clutch parts (clutch cenler, frict ion discs, clutch plales and pressure plate). Push the assembly on slowly. carefully aligning the tabs of the friction discs into the slots in the clutch outer housing.

6. Install the lockwasher with the dished side facing toward the outside (Figure IS).

7. Install the locknut (."i8ufe 16). Do not tighten the locknut at th is time. It is to be tightened after the centrifugal clutch is installed.

8. Install the centrifugal clutch as described in this chapter.

9. Inslall the manual clutch lifter plale assembly, clutch springs, the manual clutch locknut and lock washer as described under Centrifllgal elwell Instal/allon in this chapter.

10. Refill the engine with the recommended type and quantity of oil as described in Chapter Three.

II. Adjust the clutch as described in Chapter Three.

MANUAL CLUTCH (CHAIN-DRIVEN MO DELS)

ÂŽ

Remo\'allDisassembly Refer

ÂŽ

MANUAL CLUTCH 1. Releal. ann

2. Rele . .. I haft 3. Spring 4. Pr.llure plale 5. Thrult bearing

10

Figure 32 for Ihis procedure.

ICHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS) 6.

7.

8.

9.

Re le a l e rack Fric tion disc

Clutch plate Clutch cente r 10. Clutch outer houllng

102 1. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter

Three.

2. Remove the brake pedal as described in

Chapter Ten. 3. Remove the bolts (A, Fillure 33) securing the clutch cable bracket to the clutch cover.

4. Remove the damping bolt (B, Figure 33) securing the clutch release arm to the release shaft and remove the release arm.

S. Remove the clutch release ann and cable assembly and tie them up and QUI of the way.

6. Remove the bolts securing the kickstaner lever rubber stopper bracket (Figure 34) to the clutch cover and remove the bracket assembly.

7. (fnecessary. remove the Allen bolt securing the kickstarter lever (Figure 35) to the kickstaner shaft and remove thc kickstarler lever.

8. Remove the oil filter as described in Chapler Three.

9. Remove the bolts securing the clutch cover (Figure 36) and remove the clutch cover and gasket. Don't forget to remove the bolt (f iQure 37) in the oil filter recess in the clutch cover.

10. Using a CnsSCroS5 pattern remove the clutch bolts (Figure 38) securing the clutch lifter plate and remove the lifter plate.

II. Remove the clutch springs (Figure 39).

CHAPTER FIVE

CLUTCH AND TRANSM ISSION

103 12. Slide off Ihc clutch plates and friction d1scs.

13. Straighten Ihe tab on Ihc lockwashcr (""igure 40).

NOTE The special/oo} IIsed in the

fleXl S/l'J)

the Grabbit. al'ailable from

j(}('

Bolger

Slimmer Street,

8arr('

ProdtlCiS IlIc..

IS

MA 01005. \4. Install the Grabbit special tool onl0 the clutch center (Figure 41 ). Do riot install Ihe Grabbu too tighlh or Ihe Jaws will gouge thc inner splmes in the dutch center. This speeial tool will keep thc clutch center from tuming during thc nexi slep.

15. Remove Ihc locknut and splincd lockwasher (Figure 42) securing thc clutch cen ter. Oisc:lrd Ihc splincd lock washer as a new one must be installed.

16. If thc primary drive gcar is going 10 be removed, loosen it 31 this time while thc Grabbil is Installed on Ihc clu tch cenler.

17. Remove the Gmbhit special tool.

18. Remove the clutch center (Figure 43).

19. Remo\e the thrust washer (Figure 44).

20. Remove the dutch outer housing ("' igure 45).

21. If necessary. remove the primary drive gear.

22. Inspect all components as described in this chapter.

I

CHAPTER FIVE

104

AssemblyI I nsla list ion Refer \0 Figure 32 for Ihis procedure.

NOTE If new friction discs and clutch plates are being ins/ailed. apply new engine oil to all sur/aces /0 amid hal'ing the clutch lock up when used for the first lime.

I. If removed, install the primary drive gear and locknut.

2. Install the clutch outer housing and the thrust washer (Figure 44), 3. Install the clutch cenler, splined lockwasher and locknut.

4. Use the same tool sct-up as used in Removal, Step 14.

5. Tighten the clutch locknut and if removed, the primary drive gear locknut. to the torque specifications listed in Table t. Remo ve the Grabhit special tool.

6. Bend down the tab of a new lockwasher onto a fiat on the locknut (Figure 40), 7. Install a friC lion disc (Figure 46) and then a clutch piate (Figure 47) OntO the clutch center.

Contin ue to install a friction disc, then a clutch plate, and alternate them un til all are installed. The last item installed is a friction disc (FiKure 48).

8. Make sure the release rack and bearing (Figure 49) are in place in the pressure plate and install the pressure plate.

9. Install the clutch springs and bolts (Figure 39).

Tighten the bolts securely in a crisscross pattern.

10. Install a new clutch cover gasket (A, Figure SO) and locating dowels (8, Figure SO) onto the crankcase.

II. InSlall the clutch cover and tighten all bolts securely. Don't forget to install the bolt (Figure 37) in the oil fi lter recess in the clutch cover.

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

lOS

12. Install the kickslaner lever rubber stopper bracket (Figure 34) to the clutch cover and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts securely_ 13. Install the dutch release arm and cable assembly.

Install the bolts (A, Figure 33) securing the dutch cable bracket and tighten securely.

14. Install the clamping boll (8, ""igurt 33) securing the clutch release arm to the release shaft.

15. Install the brake pedal as described in Chapler Ten. 16. Install the oil filter and refill the engine with the recommended type and quantity of engine oil as d escribed in Chapler Three.

MANUAL CLUTCH INSPECTION (ALL MODELS)

®

®

I. Clean all pans in a pclroleum·based solvent such as kerosene and thoroughl y dry with compressed air.

2. Measure the free length of each clutch spring as shown in Figure 51. If any of the springs are worn to service limit listed in Table 2 or Jess, replace aU springs as a set.

3. Measure the thickness of each fri ction disc al several places around the disc as shown in Figure 52. Replace any disc that is worn to the service limit listed in Table 2 or less. For o ptimum performance, replace all dISCS as a set even if only a few need replacement.

4. Measure the width of the claws on each friction d isc as shown in Figure 53. Replace any disc that is worn to the service limit listed in Table 2 or less.

For o ptimum performance. replace all discs as a set even if only a few need replacement.

5. Check the clutch plales for warpage on a surface plate such as a piece of plale glass (."igure 54).

Replace any thaI arc warped to the service limit listed in Table 2 or more. For optimum performance. replace all plales as a set even if only a few need replacement.

®

CHAPTER FIVE

106

®

®

6. Inspect the grooves and studs in the pressure plate. Refer 10 Figure 55. Ifany show signs orwear or galling. the plate should be replaced.

7. Inspect the inncr splines and outer grooves in the clutch center. Refer to Figure 56 or Figure 57.

If damaged, the clutch center should be replaced.

8. Inspect the teeth on the clutch outer housing.

Refer to Figure S8 or Figure 59. Remove any small nicks on the gear teeth with an oilslone. If damage is severe the clu tch housing should be replaced.

9. Inspect the slots in the clutch oUler housing for cracks, nicks or galling where il comes in contact with the fri clion disc tabs. Refer 10 Figure 60 or Figure 61. If an y severe damage is evident, the cl utch housi ng must be replaced.

®

(2\

®

CLUTCH LIFTING MECHANISM (SHAFT.DRIVEN MODELS) The clutch lifting mechan ism is located both within the clutch cover and on the external shift mechanism. When the gearshift lever is moved to shi ft gcars it also activates the clutch lifting mechan ism. releasing the clutch.

The clutch lifting mecha nism can be removed with the engine in the frame.

Remo,'al Refer to Figure 62 for this procedure.

I. Perfonn Steps 1·9 of Centrifugal CIUiCh, Remoml as described in this chapter and remove the clutch cover.

1. Remove the cap nuts and special (laminated copper and rubber) washers CA, Figure 63) and the

@

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

107

@

1. Clutch adju!llment cover 2. 011 level len 1

B. Releal. boll 9. Cotter pin

3. Galket 4. Clutch cover S. Washer 6. Spring 7. Adjust bolt

ÂŽ

10. Release Irm

CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM

11 .

12.

13.

14.

Thrust washer Clutch litter elm Bell reta iner Clutch lilter

@ c

regular nut :lnd washer (B, Figure 63) securing Ihc clutch liner assembly in Ihe clutch cover.

J. Remove Ihe bolts (A, Figure 64) SC<'uring Ihe clutch liner. ball retainer, clutch lincr cam and Ihrust washer to Ihc clutch cover.

4. Remove Ihc lifter assembly (B. "'igure 64), Inspection 1. Clean all parts in solvent and thoroughly dry wllh compressed air.

2. Inspect the balls in Ihc ball retainer (A, Figure 6S). They must rOlate freely in thc ball relainer but nOI be so loose Ihat they would fall out. Ched the balls for evidance of wear, pilling or excessive heat (bluish tint). Replace if ne<:essary.

J. Inspect the grooves and inside surface of both Ihe clutch lifter cam and clutch lifter where the balls ride (B, Figure 65). All surfaces must be smooth and free of bum or scoring. Replace as necessary.

â&#x20AC;˘

CHAPTER FIVE

108 4. Check the locating notch on the clutch lifter cam (C. Figure 65), It cannot show signs of wear or damage as it must fit snugly onto Ihe pin of the clutch release arm of the shift mechanism. If the fi t between these 2 pans is sloppy, transmission shifting wi ll be difficult.

NOTE

For optimum performance replace all j 0/ these parts if anyone of them requlrt's replacement.

5. Check the movement of the lifter lever within the clutch cover (Figure 66). It must pivot freely or be replaced.

6. To remove the lifter arm: perform the following: a. Re move the clutch adj ust nul and washer (Figure 66) from the exterior of the clutch

cover. b. Remove the du tch release arm. release bos5, adjust bolt, washer and spring (Figure 67). c. Inspect all pans of the lifter arm assembly: replace any pans that are worn or damaged. d. If separated, install the release boss to the adjust bolt finger-tight. e. Install the lifter ann onto the clulch cover by reversing the procedure within Slep 6. Refe r to fi gure 68 and make sure all parts are installed correctl y.

Insl&lIl11lion I. Posilion the clulch lifter cam with the concave (or recessed) groO\'cs for Ihe balls facing out.

2. Install the thrust washer onto the boss on the backside of the clutch lifter cam.

3. Install the balls of the ball relainer into the grooves in the clutch lifter cam.

4. Install the clutch lifter with Ihe convex (or raised) grooves for the balls facing out.

5. After these parts are assembled, check Ihal the balls in Ihe ball re tainer fi t correctly into the grooves or reccsses in both the clutch lifter ca m and the clutch lifter. Ifnot. COrrttt the problem at this time.

6. Make sure Ihe thrust washer is still in place on the boss on the backside of the clutch lifter cam.

7. Hold onlO these assembled parts and install them in to the clutch release arm. Be sure to posi tion Ihe assembly so the locating notch on the clutch liner cam (8 , .-igure 64) is pointing toward the front of the cover. This is necessary as the locating tab mUSt mesh with the lab on the clulch release arm of Ihe shift mechanism in the crankcase.

t . R.t • • • • • rm boll 2. Adju st bolt

8. Install Ihe bolts (A, Figure 64) through the clutch lifter and into the clutch cover.

NOTE The specialll'ashers and cap milS mllst be inslalled on the bolls that are outside

of the clutch adjustmem cOI'er to prel'ellt an oi/leak.

9. Install the cap nUls and special washers (laminated copper and rubber) (A. figure 63) and

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

109 the arm moves in and pushes in on Ihe clutch lifter rod, thus actuating the clutch.

Remm'a l/ lnsta lla tion

1. Perform

Step

of

Manllal

Clutch.

Remm'oll Disassembly in this chapler and remove the clutch cover.

2. Withdraw Ihe clutch arm from the clutch cover.

J. Inspect the oil seal in the recess in the top oflhe clutch cover; replace if necessary.

4. Inspect all moving parts and the spring; replace if necessary.

S. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

6. Perfo rm Steps 9-11 of Manual Clutch, Assembly/ lnstallatiol/ in this chapter and install the clutch cover.

CLUTCH CABLE (CI1AlN-DRIV EN MODELS) Remo\'al/ I nsta lIalion

the regular nUl and washer (8. Figure 63) securing the clutch lifter assembly in the clutch cover.

Tighten the nUls securely.

10. Perform Steps 12¡27 of Cemrifugal Clutch.

Installalion as descnbed In Ihls chapter and install the clutch cover.

CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANlSM (CHAIN-DR IVEN MODELS) The clutch release mechanism is located within the clutch cover. When the clutch lever is pulled, the cable moves the clutch release ann. The end of

In time Ihe clutch cable will stretch to the point that it will have to be replaced.

I. Remove Ihe seat and the front and rear fenders as described in Chapter Eleven.

2. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six. 3. AI the clutch/ parking brake lever, perform the following: a. Slide back the rubber boot (A. Figure 69). b. Loosen the locknut (13, Figure 69) and tum the adjuster barrel (C. Figure 69) all the way toward the cable sheath. c. Slip the cable end out of thc hand lever.

4. At the clutch cover. perform the following: a. Loosen Ihe locknuts (A, Figure 70) at the cable bracket. b. Remove the cable end from the clutch release arm (B, Figure 70). c. Remove the clutch cable from the bracket on the clutch cover.

S. Remove the retaining straps securing the clutch cable to the frame. Refer to Figure 71 and Figure 72.

NOTE The pIece of siring auached in the next step I\ill be used to plIlI the new clutch cable back Ihrough the frame so it will be routed in the exact same positiOn.

6. Tie a piece of heavy string or cord (approximately 6-8 fi .l J.8-2.4 m long) to the clutch mechanism end of the cable. Wrap this end with masking or duct tape. Do not use an excessive

5

CHAPTER FIVE

110

amount of tape. Tie the other end of the string to the foot peg.

7. AI the handlebar end of the cable, carefull y pull the cable (and attached string) out through the frame. Make sure the attached string follows the same path of the cable through the frame.

8. Remove the tape and untie the string from the old cable.

9. Lubricate the new cable as described under Control Cables in Chapter Three.

10. Tie the string to the clutch mechanism end of the new clutch cable and wrap it with tape.

I L Carefully pull the string back through the fram e, rouling the new cable through the same path as the old cable.

12. Remove the tape and untie the string from the cable and the foo lpcg. Attach the new cable to the clutch release arm and the clutch cover bracket.

®

@

'1- 9 1. Reye".

2. Gasket

EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL SHIFT MECHANISM (SHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS,

um Itopper boll

3. Spring 4. Re",lr•• um elopper pin

•

5. Rever •• gelr.hlft Ihatt 8. Thrult washe, 7. Oil ••,1 8. Rever'. arm

9. Boit 10. Reve'lII g•• r I witch

11 . auket 12.

13.

14.

15.

18.

17.

,a.

19.

20.

21 .

22.

Reyer •• ahift 'ork G•• , Ihlft fork No. 1 Ge., IhlH loft( No. 2 Shift lork Ihett No, 1 Plwl relelner Shift drum ,hitter Shift drum Pin Neutra' Iwltch plun"., Wuher Shift elm s topper plet.

23. O.rlng

24. Neutr.1 Iwltch

12

14 15

~~¥((e~1I~~6lUl 28

29~ ~JMI

3D

~I

3233 34

I tJ,1-35

~::::::~=:::.

26. Lock•• ,her

30. Plwl 31 . G•• r I hift fork No. 3 32. Shllt fork ,hatt No. 2

27. Screw 28. Cem guide 2i. Pin

33. Bolt 34. eem ,topper 35. Spring

25. Washer

13

36. Gearshift shaH 37. Stopper pin

38. Oil ..,I 39. G •• rahift lever 40. Bolt

(-

CLUTCH AND TRANSM ISS ION

I II

NOTE

13. Install all clutch cable retaining straps on 10 the frame.

14. Install the fu el lank as descri bed in Chapter

The gearshift lelw is subject to a 101 of abuse. If the ATV has been ill a hard spiIJ. rhe gearshift lerer may haw? been hit and the shift shaft bent. II is IW.\· hard 10 slrO/ghten the shaft IlithoUl subjecting rhe crankcase 10 abnormal Stress where the shaft enters Ihe case. If the shaft IS bent enough 10 prel'ent 1/ from beil1g \1'llhdrall'lI from Ihe crankcase. there is little recourse bill to cut the shaft oij'lI'llh a hacksaw IWy close to the crankcase. II is milch cheaper in the long "III to replace the shaft than risk damagmg a I'er.l' expensire crankcase assembly.

Six. 15. Inslall the rear and front fenders and the seat as described in Chapler Eleven.

16. Adjust Ihe clutch cable as described in Chapter

Three.

EXTERNAl. S HI FT MEC H ANISM (ALL MODE1$)

The external shin mechanism is located on the same side oflhe crankcase as the clutch assemblies and can be removed wi th the engine in Ihe frame.

To remove the shift drum and shift forks and reve rse gear shifl mechanism i\ is necessary 10 remove the engi ne and split Ihe crankcase. T his procedure is covered under Internal Shift Mechanism in this chapter.

£;4

Refer to figU f(' 73 fo r shan-driven models or Figure 74 for cha in-dri ven models fo r this procedure.

EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL SHIFT MECHANISM )CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS)

/:a6 (

Remon]

,.

I

R.ver.e shllt lork 2. Gear .hift fork No. 1 3. G.ar . hift for'll No. 2 R.v.rse cam Slopper boll Gaskel Spring 7. R.verse cam stopper pin 8. Shill lork shalt No. 1 Reverse gearshifl shaft

•• •• ••

o 15

••

10. Pin

". E-clip Thrust washer

". ,.. ". ,

13. Oilseal Bolt Re ....r •• arm

, 33 16. Pawl 17. Pin 18. Shift drum ,hitter

19. Pawl reta iner 20. Shift drum 21 , Washer 22. Shift cam Itopper plate

34 23. Screw 24.

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

Cam guide Stopper pin Gear .hift for'll No. 3 G.ar .hift cam .topp.r Shift for'll shaft No.2 E-clip

~::

-~:: 35 30. Thru.t wuh.r 31 . Gearshift lever 32. Pin 33. G.arshlll shall

34.

35.

36.

31.

38.

39.

Oil.eal Bolt Adjust nut Adjust bolt locknut Pi ... ot Joint

•

112

CHAPTER FIVE

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapler Three.

3. Remove the seat and the front and rear fenders as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Remove the exhaust system as described in Chapter Six.

NOTE It u

nOl nec~ssary (0 fen/Ol'e Ihe

exhallst system bUi il allows more 'working room.

5. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. 6A. On shaft¡driven models, remove the clamping bolt and remove the gearshift lever (Figure 75).

68. On chain-driven models, perform the

following: a. Remove the clamping boll CA, Figure 76) on the gearshift lever. b. Remove the bolts securing the gearshifl lever (8, Figure 76) and righi-hand foot peg assembly to the frame. c. Remove the gearshift lever assembly.

7A. On shaft-driven models. remove both clutch assemblies as described in this chapter.

79. On chain-driven models. remove the clutch assembly as described in this chapter.

8. Withdraw the gearshift spindle assembly (Figu re 77) from the crankcase.

NOTE See the NOTE III the introduction to this procedure regarding a bent shaft if the assembly is dijJicult to remol'e.

9. Remove the screws (A, Figure 78) securing the shift drum shifter pawl retainer and remove the pawl retainer.

10. Remove the screws (8, I-jgure 78) securing the cam guide and remove the cam guide.

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

113 I L Compress thc spri ng.loaded shifting pawls with your lingers and remove the shift drum shifter (Figure 79), 12. SlOre thc shift drum shifter in a spray paint can lOp to keep all components together (.' igure 80).

Inspe(:tion

I. Inspect the return spring on the gearshift spindle assembly (Figure 81), If broken or weak it must be replaced .

2. Inspect Ihe gearshift lever assembly shaft (Figure 82) for bending. wear or other damage; replace if necessary.

3. On shaft-drivcn models, if clutch release ann re moval is necessary, perform Ihe following: a. Prior to removal, note the alignmcni between thc clutch release arm (A, Figure 83) and the gearshift spindle (B, Figure 83), They must be aligned the same way when reassembled. b. Remo ve the bolt (A, Figure 84) 5e<:uring Ihe

@

clutch release arm (8, Figure 84) and remove thc release arm. c. Align the clu tch release arm with the gearshift spindle and install the release arm. Install and tighten the bolt securing the ann to the shaft.

4. Disassemble the shift drum shifter and inspect the pins. springs and pawls for wear or damage.

5. Assemble thc shift drum shifter as follows: a. Install thc springs into the shifter body. b. Position Ihe pawl pins with the rounded end facing out and install them onto the springs. c. Install the pawls onto the pins and into Ihe shifter body (Figure 85). d. The pin grooves in the pawls are offset. When Ihe pawls are installed correctly they will be Hush with the rear surface ofthc shifter (Figure 86).

ÂŽ

CHAPTER FIVE

114 e. Hold the pawls in place and place the assembly into the spray paint can lOp. In~ilallaljon

1. Remove the shift drum shifter from the spray paint can lOp and keep all components together.

2. Compress the spring. loaded shifting pawls with your fingers. Install the shirl drum shiner into the receptacle in the shift drum as shown in Figure 79.

J. InSlalllhe cam guide plate and install the screws (B, Figure 78). Tighten the screws securely.

4. Install the shift drum shiner pawl retainer and mstall the screws (A. Figure 78). Tighten the screws securely.

5. Partially install the gearshifi spindle assembly (Figur(' 77) into the crankcase. Align the center of the teeth of the shi ft drum shifter to the teeth of the gearshin spindle (Figure 87) and push the gearshift spindle assembly all the way in. This alignment is necessary for proper gear shifting.

6A. On shaft-driven models, install both clutch assemblies as described in this chapter.

60. On chain-driven models, install the clutch assembly as described in Ihis chapter.

7A. On shaft-driven models, install the gearshift lever and install the clamping boll. Tighlen Ihe clamping bolt securely.

78. On chai n¡driven models, perform the following: a. Install the gearshift lever assembly and install the bolts securing the gearshin lever (8, Figure 76) and right-hand foot peg assembly to the frame . b. Install the clamping bolt and tighten securely.

8. Install the seat. the front and rear fenders as described in Chapter Eleven.

9. Install the exhaust system as described in Chapter Six. 10. Refill the engine with the correct type and quantity of oil as described in Chapter Three.

II. Adjust the clutch as described in Chapter Thn."e.

DRIVE SPROCKET (CHAI N-DRIVEN) RemouJ/ 1nSla lIation I. Shin the transmission in to gear.

1. Remove the seat and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

J. Remove the clamping bol! (A, Figure 76) on the gearshift lever.

4. Remove the bolts securing the gearshift lever (B. Figure 76) and left¡hand foot peg assembly to the frame.

5. Remove the gearshift lever assembly.

6. Remove the bolts securing the drive sprocket cover (Figure 88) and remove the cover.

7. loosen the clamping boils (A, Figure 89) on the swing arm.

S. Insert a drift into one of the holes (B, Figure 89) in the axle holder. Push the drift forward to allow slack in the drive chain.

9. Remove the clamping bolt on the reverse lever (A, Figure 90) and remove the reverse lever.

10. Have an assistant apply the rear brake. This is to keep the drive sprocket locknut from turning in the next step.

CLUTCH AND TRANSM I SSI ON II. Straighten the lab on the lockwasher and remove the locknut (8. Figure- 90) securing the drh"c sprockel.

11. Remove the locknut and the lockwasher.

Discard the lockwasher.

13, Slide the dr'\ e sprocket and dnve chain olfthe transmission nlaln shan.

14. The dnve chain is a conl1nuous loop type with no master link. To rcmo,e the drive chain. refer to Chapter Nine.

15. Install by reversing these removal steps. noting the following.

115 16. Install a new lockwasher.

17. Tighten the drive sprocket locknut to 80·100 Nom (58-73 ft .-l b.) and fold a tab of the locknut down against a nat on the locknul.

18. Adjust the drive chain as described in Chapler

Three.

Inspection

Inspect the teeth on the drive sprockcl. If the teeth are \·isibly worn (Figure 91). replace the sprocket with a new one.

If the sprocket requires replacemen t. the drive chain is probably worn also. R~fer to C hapter Nine.

TRANSl\lI SSION AN D INTERNAL S HI FT MECHA NIS M The transmission and internal shift mechanism used among the various models is basically the same. Minor variations occur in some parts but do nOI have an effect on the service procedures.

Refer to Ta ble 3 for specifications on the internal shift mechanism. Suzuki does not provide any specifications for transmission componen ts.

To gain access \0 the transmission and internal shift mechanism it is nettSS3ry \0 remove the engine and split the crankcase.

The transmissions used among the various models are shown in the following illustrations: a. Figure 92: shaft-driven models. b. Figure 93: chain-driven models.

The internal shift mechanisms used among the various models are shown in the following illustrations: a. Figure 73: shaft-driven models. b. Figure 74: chain-driven models.

®

o

Rcmo\'s l

I. Remove the engine and split the crankcase as described in Chapter Four.

GOOD

• rea

o WORN

Wom are •

NOTE The rel"erse grorshjfi shaft should slide 01/1 of the crankcase with minimal resistance. If the shaft 15 difficult to remOl"e, check the portioll of the shaft end exposed Oil Ihe left-hand Side 0/ rhe crankcase. If the ATJI has been in a hard spill or collision, the end 0/ the gearshift shaft may be bem. A iNnt shaft IS Impossiblt, to re",ol'e or straightell w/tholli puttillg abllormal stress Oil the crankcases. If the shaft is iNlII enough to prel'enf normal remoral, CI/I 1M shaft off with a hacksaw ref)' close 10 the crankcase. It

•

CHAPTER FIVE

116 TRANSMISSION (SHAFT. DRIVEN MODELS)

5. Pin Odometer drive gear 7. Bearing B. Revers. engagement dog

1. Thrust washer

b~~ ~~~@~'I~?~~~~'~.W~!&E'1~qoo«f) ••

2. Raver.e idle gear

3. Needle bearings

e. Reverse idle shaft

1 8

9 10 11 12

10 1314

10 9 15

9 10 16 11 18 19 20

9 1 21

22

23

1

20. Main Ihaft 5th gear

9. Circlip

21 .

22.

23.

24.

25.

26.

27.

28.

10. SpUned walher 11 . Rever •• driven gear bushing '2. Rever.. driven gear 13. Main shaft 1.t g •• , bushing

14. Main shaft 1.t geaf 15. Main ,hart 4th gear 16. Main Ih.ft 3td gear 17. Main shatt 3td g •• r bushing

Main shaft 2nd gear Main shaft 2nd gear bushing Main shaft Counterahaft Counterahatt 4th gear Counterlhaft 4th gear bushing Countershaft 3td gear Counterahaft 5th gear

29. Count.flnatt 2nd gear 30. Bearing retainer and bolt

18. Lockwalher 19. Splined washer

TRANSMISSION (CHAIN. DRIVEN MODELS)

12334561

b~~ 1

89 10

111210

1.

2.

3.

4.

Thrust washer Reverie idte gear Needte bearing Reve'le Idle Ihaft

5.

8.

7.

8.

Pin Odometer drive gear Bearing Reverie engagement dog

1314109 15910

ct(Joo@b@~~~{~)300

Cf)'" §!## l~~~," 3113233193491035 361

g. Circlip

10. Splined walhe, 11 . Reye,..e driyen ge.r 12. Reverse driyen gea, bUlhing 13. Matn Ihaft 1at gear 14. Matn shaft' It gea, bushing 15. Main shaft 4th gear

10. Main ahaft 3rd gear 17. Main ah.ft 3rd gear buahing 18. Lockwalher 19. Splined walher 20. Main ahaft 5th gea, 21 . Main Ihaft 2nd gear 22. Main ahaft 2nd gea, bUlhlng

23.

24.

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.

31 .

32.

33.

34.

35.

36.

Main ahaft 011 .eat Retatner O·ring Spacer Sprocket Lockwalher Nut Counterahaft Counterahaft Counterahaft Counterahaft Counterahaft Counterahan

4th geer 4th gea, bUlhing 3td gear 5th gear 2nd gear

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

117 ;s much cheaper to replace rhe shaft than risk damagmg a rery expenSil"e matched SN of crankcases.

ÂŽ

NOTE

There are" difjerenf shaped shift forks used and they are I'ery simIlar ;n appearance. Refer 10 Figure 94 and F;gur~ 95 for correct idenrijicQtlon.

2

1. Partially lift up on the No.2 shift fork shaft (A, Figure 96) and remove the cam stopper (B, figure 96) from under the fork shaft. D isengage the cam stopper spring from the pin on the crankcase and remove the cam stopper and spring.

3. Swing the No.2 shift [ork away and OU I of mesh with the shift drum and remove the No.2 shift fork shaft.

4. Withdraw the No. I sh ift fork shaft (C, Figure 96).

5. Swing the reverse shin fork out of mesh with the reverse gear5hift shaft (A. Figure 97).

6. Pull out the reverse gearshift shaft (8. figure 97) and thrust washer. Don't lose the thrust washer.

7. Pivot the No. I and No.2 shift rorks away rrom the shirt drum to allow ror shirt drum removal.

8. Remove the shift drum (figure 98).

9. Remove the reverse, the No. I and thc No.2 shirt rorks.

10. Remove the reverse idle gear and shaft assembly (Figure 99). Don't lose the loose locating pin in the end or the shaft.

5

CHAPTER FIVE

118 11. Remove both transmission assemblies (Figure 100),

12. Disassemble and inspect the shin forks and

transmission assemblies as described in this chapter.

Installation I. Install the 2 transmISSion assemblies by meshing them together in their proper relationship to each other. Install them in the left-hand crankcase. After both assembl ies 8fC installed. tap on the end of both shafts (Figure 100) with a plastic or rubber mallet to make sure they are completely seated.

2. Align the locating pin (A, Figure 101 ) on the reverse idle shaft with the localing recess (8, Figure 101) and install the reverse idle gear and shaft assembly (Figure 99).

3, Install the No.2, the No. I and the reverse shift forks into position in their respec tive gean but do not insert the No.1 shin fork shaft at this time.

4. Coat all bearing and sliding surfaces of the shift drum with assembly oi l and install the shift drum (Figure 98). Rotate the shin drum to the neutral position. This will make it easier to insert the shift fork pin followers into the shin drum.

S. Pivot the No.2 and the No. I shift forks into mesh with the shift drum.

6. Make sure the thrust washer is in place (Figure 102) on the reverse gearshift shaft and install the reverse gearshift shaft (8, Figure 97).

7. Pivot the reverse shin fork into mesh with the reve rse gearshift shaft (Figure 103).

8. Make sure all 3 cam pin fo llowers are in mesh with the shift drum grooves and install the No. I shift fork shaft (C, Figure 96).

9. Install the cam stopper into the shift drum (A, Figure 104) and hook the cam stopper spring onto the pin (B, Figure 104).

10. Install the No.2 shift fork shaft (C, Figure 104).

II. Spin the transmission shafts and shift through the gears using the shift drum. Make sure you can shift into all gears. This is the time to find that something may be installed incorrectly- not after the crankcase is complctely assembled.

NOTE

This procedure is best done with the aid of a helper as the assemblies are loose and won't spin l'ery easily. Hal'e the helper spin the transmission shaft while you turn the shift drum through all the gears.

12. Make sure that the thrust washer (Figure 105) is installed on the reverse idle gear,

~

~

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION 13. Assemble

the crankcase as described in

Chapter Four,

Preliminar}' Inspection After the transmission shaft assemblies have been removed from the crankcase, clean and

inspect the assemblies prior to disassembling them .

Place the assembled shaft into a large can or plastic bucket and thoroughly clean with a petroleum.based solvent such as kerosene and a stiff brush. Dry wilh com pressed air or lei it sil on rags 10 drip d ry. Repeal for the other shaft assembly.

119

t. After they have been cteaned, visually inspect the components of the assemblies for excessive wear. Any burrs, pilling o r roughness on the teeth ora gear will cause wear on the maling gear. Minor roughness can be cleaned up wilh an oilslOne bUI thert's little point in attempting to remove deep

scars.

NOTE

De/eclil'e gears should be replaced. II's a good idea to replace Ihe maling gear on the orher shaflel'en though il may nor show as much wear or damage.

2. Carefully check the engagement dogs. If any are chipped, worn, rounded or missing, the affected gear must be replaced.

3. Rotate the transmission bearings (Figure 106) in both crankcases by hand. Check Cor roughness, noise and radial play. Any bearing that is suspect should be replaced as described in Chapter Four.

4. I C the transmission shafts are satisCactory and arc not going to be disassembled , apply assembly oil or engine oil to all components and reinstall them in the crankcase as described in this chapter.

NOTE If disassembling a used, well run-in (high mileage) transmission fo r the first lime by yourself. pay particular attention to any additional shims that may haw! been added by a previous owner. These may hal'e been added /0 lake up the tolerance of worn componeflls and mus/ be reins/ailed in the same position since Ihe shims hal'e del'eloped a wear pattern. If new parts are going 10 be installed. these shims may be eliminated. This is somezhing j'Ou will hal'e to de/ermine upon reassembly.

Countershaft Dissssembl)'I Asssem bl )' The 2nd gear (A, Figure 107) is pressed ontO the shaft. Replacing gears on the countershaft requires a hydraulic press and special skills; therefore, this task should entrusted to a Suzuki dealer or competent machine shop. ICthe shaft assembly has been serviced make sure the 1st gear (8, FIgure 107) will spin Creely after the 2nd gear has been pressed into place. There must be no binding.

Main Shaft Disassemblyllnspection Refer to Figure 92 for sha ft-dri ven models or Figure 93 Cor chain-dri ven models for thi s procedure.

..

CHAPTER FIVE

120 NOTE A helpful "rool" Inat should Ix> IIsedJor transmISsion disassembly is a large egg

jlol (Ihe /)'pe Iha( resrollrams gel the" eggs in). As ),ou remOl'e a par' f rom rhe shcifi. seL il in one o/the depr(>ssiolls in the same position from which il was ,enrOI'ed. This is all easy way /0 remember lhe correct relationship ofall parts.

1. Clean the assembled shaft as described under

Preltminary Inspection in this chapler.

2. Slide off the reverse engagement dog.

3. Remove the circlip and slide olf the splined washer.

4. Slide off the reverse driven gear and gear bUShing.

S. Sl ide off the splined washer, 1st gear and lsi gcar bush ing.

6. Slide off the splined washer and remove the circlip.

7. Slide off the 4th gear.

S. Remove the circlip and spline<! washer.

9. Slide off the 3rd gear and 3Td gear bushing.

10. Remove the lockwasher and slide off the splined washer.

I I. Slide off the 5th gear.

12. Remove the circlip and washer.

13. Slide off the 2nd gear and 2nd gear bushing.

III

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

14. Check each gear ror excessive wear, burrs, pilling. or chipped or missing teeth. Make sure the lugs on the gears are in good condition.

NOTE

De/ecliw' gear5 shollld be replaced. II is a good idea 10 rep/au the maling gear

B

on Ihe countershaJt ei'en though il may 1101 show as milch II'f'O( or damage.

15. Make SUfe that all gcars slide smoothly on the main shan splines.

NOTE SU=lIki suggeslS thaI all circlips be replaced el'ery lime Ihe transmission is disassembled 10 l'nSllre proper gear

alignment. Do no/ expand a (i, clip lIIor(' than necessarv to slid" it over the shaft. .

Main Shaft Assembl )' 1. Slide on the 2nd gear bushing (A, Figure 108) and the 2nd gear ( 8. Figure 108).

2. Slide on the thrust washer and install the circlip (Figure 109).

3. Slide on the 5th gear (Figure 110).

4, Slide on the splined washer (A. Figure III ) and the lockwasher (B. Figure III). Push the lockwasher on until it locks the splined washer in place (Figure 112).

5. Align the oil hole (A, ""igure 113) in thc 3Td gear bushing with the oil hole (8. Figure 113) in the shaft and sl ide the bushing into place.

6. Install the 3rd gear (A. Figure 114) with the chamfered side on first (Figure 115).

7. Slide on the splined washer and install the circ1ip (8. Figure 114).

8. Slide on the 4th gear (A, Figure 116).

9. Install the circ1ip and slide on the splined washer (B. Figure 116).

10. Align the oil hole (A. Figure 11 7) in the 1st gear bushing with Ihe oil hole (B. Figure J 17) in the sha n and slide the bushing into place.

B

â&#x20AC;˘

.. " 122

CHAPTER FIVE

II. Position the 1st gear with the flush side on last and install the 1st gear (A, Figure 11 8), 12. Slide on the splined washer (D, Figure 118), 13. Align the oil hole (A. Figure 11 9) in the reverse

driven gear bushing with the oil hole (8. Figure 119) in the shaft and slide Ihe reverse driven gear bushing into place.

14. Position the reverse driven gear with the flush side on first and install the reverse driven gear (A, Figure 120).

15. Slide the splincd washer on and install the circlip (8, Figure 120).

16. Slide on the reverse engagement dog (Figure 121).

17. After assembly is complete, check for correct placement of all gcars (Figure 122).

18. Make sure all circlips are scated correctly in the main shaft grooves.

Reverse Idle Gear and Shari Disassembly/ Inspection Refer 10 Figure 92 for shan-driven models or Figure 93 for chain-driven models for this procedure.

1. Remove the locating pin from the reverse idle shan.

2. Slide off the thrust washer and the odometer drive gear.

3. From the other end of the shan. slide off the thrust washer and the reverse idle gear.

4. Slide off both needle bearings.

5. Thoroughly clean all parts with a petroleum based solvent such as kerosene and a stiff brush.

Dry with compressed air or let it sit on rags to drip dry.

6. Visually inspect the components for excessive wear. Any burrs, pitting or roughness on the teeth ofa gear will cause wear on the mating gear. Minor roughness can be cleaned up with an oilstone but there's little point in attempting to remove deep

~

~

gear

CLUTCH AND TRANSM ISSION

123 7. Make sure the needle bearings rotate smoothly with no binding. Replace as a set if necessary.

Assembly

I. Coat all sliding pans with clean engine oil or assembly oil prior to assembly.

2. Slide on the odometer drive gear (Figure 123).

3. Onto the other end of the shaft. slide on both needle bearings (Figure 124).

4. Install the reverse idle gear (Figure 125) and the thrust washer (Figure 126).

S. Onto the other end of the shaft, slide on the thrust washer (Figure 127) and install the locating pin (Figure 128). Don't lose the locating pin as it is

a very loose fit.

Internal S hirt Mechanism Inspe<:lion

Refer to Figure 73 for shaft-driven models or Figure 74 for Ihis procedure.

I. Inspect each shift fork for signs of wear or cracking. Check for bending and make sure each fork slides smoothly on the shaft. Replace any worn or damaged forks.

2. Check for any arc-shaped wear or burned marks on the shift forks (figure 129). This indicates that the shift fork has come in contact with the gear.

The fork fingers have become excessively worn and the fork must be replaced.

3. Check the shift cam dowel pins for wear or damage; replace as necessary.

@

I

CHAPTER FIVE

124 4. Roll each shift fork shaft on a nat surface such as a piece o(platc glass and check fo r any bends. If the shaft is bent, it must be replaced.

5. Measure thc width of the gearshift fork fingers with a micrometer (Figure 130). Replace the ones worn to the service limit listed in Table 3 or less.

6. Install each shift fork inlo its respective gear.

Use a nat feeler gauge and measure the clearance between the shift fork fingers and the gear. The specified clearance is listed in Table 3. Replace the worn partes).

CAUTION It is recommended thaI marginal shift

forks be replaced. Worn forks can cause Ihe lronsmission leading

10

/0

slip 0111 of gear,

more serious and

expensi~'e

damage.

7. If the width of the shift fork is within tolerance but the clearance between Ihe fork and the gear is excessive, use a vernier caliper and measure the gear groove width. Ir the gear groove width exceeds the dimension listed in Table 3 the gear must be replaced.

8. There are 4 differently shaped shift rorks used and they are very simi lar in appearance. Rerer to Figure 94 and figure 95 for correct identification.

9. Check the grooves in the shift drum (Figure 131 ) ror wear or roughness. If any of the groove profiles have excessive wear or damage. replace the shift drum.

10. Remove the stopper plate (Figure 131) and washer (figure 133) from the end of the shift drum.

Inspect the stopper plate. washer and the end ofthe shift drum. Replace any partes) that arc worn or damaged.

@

... â&#x20AC;˘...

....

,.....

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

12S I L Inspect the shifter recess (Figure 134) in the cnd of the shift drum for wear or damage. Replace the shift drum if wear is evident.

12. Inspect the engagement groo,-c (A. Figure 135)

in the reverse gearshift shaft. Check the shaft portion (B, figure 135) for bending or other damage. Replace if neressary. []. Make sure the washer (C. Figure I3S) is in place prior to inSlallation.

14. Check the cam stopper and spring (Figure 136) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

15. Apply a light coal of oi l 10 the shin fork shafts

and the inside bores of the shift forks prior to installation.

DUAlrRANGE SU BT RA NSM I SS ION (SHAFT-DRIVEN LT-FBO)

The LT-F230 is equipped with a dual-range subtransmission that consists of a sct of reduction

gears. The unit is driven by the secondary bevel gear and is bolted to the final drive unit. It offers 2 different riding ranges, or ratios-a low or high range. The low range is just that-low-as it gears the engine down for low¡end pulling power for use when pulling a trailer or heavy load. Shifting for both lO and HI is accomplished by a smalllevcr (and control cable) at the base of the handlebar (Figure 137) on the right.hand side.

Rt'moval/J nstallation J. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake. Block the front wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seal.

3. Remove the rear carrier and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Remove the left-hand rear wheel as described in Chapter Nine.

5. If the subtransmission is going to be disassembled, drain the oil as described in Chapter Three. It is not necesary to drain the oil just to remove the unit from the frame as no oil will leak oul during removal.

6. Remove the cotler pin, washer and pivot pin (A. figure 138) securing the control cable to Ihe shift arm on top of the subtransmission. Remove the control cable.

7. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the flexible joint assembly together (8. figure 138).

NOTE The from portion 0/ the flexible Joim 11'/11 come off 1\'lIh the stXondary bel'e/ gear assembly in Ihe next step. Dan', lose any bolts 'hat may slay wilh this ponion of the joint.

r----

126 8. Remove the secondary bevel gear assembly (C. Figure 138) as dcscnbed in Chapler Four.

9. Remove the nuts (A, Figure 139) securing the 5ublransmission to the final drive unit.

10. Remove the upper bolt (B, Figure 139) and nut securing the subtransmission to the frame. Don', lose the spacer between the 5ublransmission case and the frame.

I!. Hold onlo the subtransmission and remove Ihe lower bolt (C. Figure 139) securing the subtransmission to the frame.

12. Pull the subtransmission unit slightly forward and disengage the unit from the final drive unit coupling. Remove the subtransmission from the frame.

13. Install by rcversinglhese removal steps, noting the following.

14. Apply a coat of molybdenum disulfide grease (NLG I No.2) to the splines oflhc final drive unit coupling (Figure 140) and the subtransmission main shan (Figure 141 ).

I S. Slightly wiggle the front fleXIble joint to help align the splines of the final drive unit coupling and the main shaft of the subtransmission. Push the subtransmission into place until it bolloms out on the final drive unit and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque specification listed in Table 4.

16. Don't forget to install the spacer between the subtransmission and the frame on the upper mounting bolt.

17. Tighten the upper and lower mounting bolts and nuts and the f1cxiblcJoint bolts and nuts to the torque specification listed in Table 4.

18. If the subtransmission was disassembled or drained, refill with the recommended type and quantity of hypoid oil as desc ribed in Chapter Three.

Disassembly Refer to Figure 14 2 for this procedure.

The number references in this procedure refe r to thc numbers in the v:ploded view drawing in Figure 142.

I. Remove the subtransmission from the frame as described in this chapter.

2. Slide the flexible joinl assembly and O-ring from the end of the input gear.

3. Remove the spacer (36) from the main shaft.

4. Set the rear ponion of the subtransmission on the work bench. Protect the splines on the main shaft that protrudes through the rear case hair.

5. Remove the bolts (Figure 143) holding the case halves together and separate the case halves.

6. Lift the front case half off the rear case half assembly. Don't lose the locating dowels.

CHAPTER FIVE

~

~

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

127

DUAL¡RANGE SUBTRANSMISSION 1. Input gear

14. Thrust washer

28. Spring

2.

3.

4.

5.

15. Counter,ha't gear 16. Counterahall

29. Bolt

30. a-ring

17. Rear case hall 18. Nut

32. Plug

Needle bearing Circlip Thrust washer Shihe, dog

6. Clrcllp

19. Wa.her

1. Splined w . .her 8. Main ahah gear

20. Shift arm 21 . Oil fill bolt 22. Bolt 23. all drain bolt 24. Bolt 25. Shift fori< 26. Shift forti shaft

9. Main shaft gear bushing 10. Bearing 11 . Olla.al 12. Main shatt 13. Needle bearing

27. Ball detent

7. Move the shift arm so Ihe open end of the shifter (41) is facing toward the open end of the case. This is to allow thc shift fork to disengage from the shifter.

8. Slide o ff the thrust washer ( 14) and countershaft gear (15).

9. Slid e the thrust washer (4) and the shifter dog (5) from the main shaft along with the shift fork (25) and shirl fork shaft (26) assembly.

10. Remove the circlip (6) and splined washer (7) from the main shaft.

31 . Front flex-joint 33. Nut 34. Rubber plate 35. Rear flex-joint

36. Spacer 37. Oil I.al 3B. 39.

40.

41.

Fronl case hell Vent hose all level check bolt Shifter

II . Slide the main shaft gear (8) and main shaft gear bushing (9) from the main shaft.

12. Withdraw the countershaft (16) from the front of the rear case half.

13. Using a soft-faced hammer. carefully tap the main shaft ( 12) out through the rear of the rear case half.

14. Using a soft-faced hammer. carefully tap the in put gear ( I) out through the back of the front case hal f.

128

CHAPTER FIVE

15. To remove the needle bearings from within the input gear, perform the following: a. Remove the intemal circlip (3) in the end of the input gear. Discard the circlip as it is not to

be reused. b. Slide OUI both needle bearings (2).

16. To remove the shifter. perform the following: a. Remove the nut (A. Figure 144) and washer securing the shift arm (D, Figure 144) 10 the

shifter. h. Remove the washer, shin arm and washer. c. Remove the shifter (4 1) from the rear case

half.

17. Clean all parts in solvent and dry with compressed air. Be sure 10 remove all traces of old gasket scaler from the mating surfaces of both case

halves.

InspÂŤtion l. Inspect the shin fork for signs of wear or cracking. Also check for bending.

2. Check for an), arc-shaped wear or burned marks on the shift fork. These indicate that the shift fork has come in contact with the gear. The fork fingcrs have become excessively worn and the fork must be replaced.

3. Check each gear for excessive wear. buIT'S, pitting or chipped or missing teeth.

NOTE De/eetilY' gears shollld be replaced. It is a good idea to replace the matmg gear I'I'en thollgh it may not show as milch wear or damage.

4. Check the engagemen t lugs on the shiner dog fo r wear or damage. I f worn or damaged. the shifter dog should be replaced.

5. Install the shin fo rk into the groove in the shifter dog and check the side clearance between the 2 parts with a flat feeler gauge. Replace the defective pan if the clearance is 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) or more.

6. Inspect the needle bearings. Check fo r roughness and play by rotating them slowly with your fingers. They should rotate smoothly. replace if necessary.

7. Check the rubber plate (34) of the flexible joint assembly for wear or deterioration. To replace the rubber plate. perform the following: a. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the flexible joint together. b. Separate the assembly and install a new rubber plate between the front and rear flexible joint plate. Be sure to install both plugs (32) into the rubber plate.

c. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the torque specification listed in Table 4.

8. Inspect the shaft support bearings in both case halves. Check for roughness. pitting, galling and play by ro tating them slowly with your fingers.

They should rotate smoothly. If replacement is necessary. refer to Case Bear;ng Replacement in this chapter.

Assembl)' Refer to Figure 142 for this procedure.

The number references in this procedure refe r to the numbers in the exploded view drawing shown in Figure 142.

I. Coat a ll rotating and sliding pans with fresh hypoid gear oil prior to installation and assembly.

2. To install the shifter. perform the fo llowing: a. Install the shifter (4 1) into the rear case half. b. Ins tall the washer, sh ift arm and washer. c. Install the shift arm (20), washer and nut.

Tighten the nut to the torque specification listed in Table 4.

3. If removed, install both needle bearings into the hollow shaft of the the input gear ( I) and install a new internal circlip. Never reuse an internal circlip that has been removed.

4. Using a soft faced hammer, carefully tap the input gear (I) in through lhe back of the fron t case half.

5. Apply a coat ofoi! to the main shaft oil seal (II) in the rear case half prior to installing the main shaft.

6. Using a soft-faced hammer. carefully tap the main shaft. ( 12) into the rear or the rear case half.

7. Install the countershaft (16) into the rea r case half. Make sure the circlip (6) is installed on the countershaft..

I

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION 8. Position the main shaft gear bushing with the shoulder side on first, then slide the main shaft gear bushing (9) and main shaft gear (8) on to the main shaft.

9. Slide on the splined washer (7) and install the circlip (6) Onto the main shaft.

10. If the shift fork has been removed from the shift fork shaft, perform the following: a. The shift fork shaft is asymmetrical-one long end and one shon end from the ball detent grooves. b. Position the shift fork with the flush side (no

suppon webs) facing down toward the rear case hal( c. Position the shift fork shaft (26) with the shan er end down toward the rear case half. d. Insert the spring (28) and ball delent (27) into the receptacle in the shift fork and install this assembly onto the shift fo rk shaft. Move the shirt fork back and forth and make sure the ball detent clicks into each groove in the shift fork shaft.

1 J. Move the shift arm (20) 50 the open end of the shifter (41) is facing toward the open end of the case. This is to allow the shift fo rk guide pin to engage with the groove in the shifter.

12. Properly mesh the shift fork into the groove in the shifter dog (5) and install these assembled parts into both the rear case half and onto the main shaft. Make sure the shi fl fork guide pin is properly engaged wit h the shifler.

13. Hold the end of the shift fork shaft down and using the shift arm , shi ft the subtransmission from LO to H I range. Make sure the shifler dog slides freely on the main shafl.

14. InSlall the thrust washer (4) onto the main shafl and onto the shifler dog.

15. Onlo the countershaft. slide on the countershaft gear (15) and the thrust washer ( 14).

16. Applya coat of oil in to the input shaft oil seal (37) in the fron l case half prior to installing the inpul shaft.

17. Using a sofl faced hammer, carefully lap the input gear ( I) into the rear of the front case hair 18. Ifremoved , instal l the locating dowels into the rear case half.

19. Make sure the thrust washer is installed on both the main and countershafts.

129 20. Apply a light eoat of non-hardening sealan t like Gasgacinch, Three Bond 1104, or eq uivalent to the mating surface of the front case half.

2 t. Install the front case half onto the rear case half. Make sure the end of the countershafl is positioned correctly into its respecti ve front case bearing.

CAUTION

The case hall'es sholild fit IOgelher without force. if the cases do nO! JIl together completely, do IIOt allempt to pull them together with the case boilS. Separate the case halves alld imestigate the cause of the mterference. Do nOi risk damage trying /0 force {he case hah'es together.

22. Push the front case half all the way down until both mating surfaces meet.

23. Install the bolts holding the case halves together and tighten the bolts only finger-tight .

24. Temporarily install the fl ex ible joint assembly onto the input gear shaft splines. Rotate the nexible joint and input gear and shift the subtransmission into H I and LOW range positions. Make sure the shafts rotate free ly and that the Shifting is correct.

This is yo ur last chance prior to installation. If a problem exists, disassemble the unit and correct the problem.

25. Remove the fiexiblejoinl assembly and tighten the case bolts to the torque specifica tion listed in Table 4.

26. Install the spacer (36) onto the input gear shaft.

27. InSlallthe flexib le joint assembly and install a new O-ring (30).

28. Inslall the 5ubtransmisSlOn as described in this chapter.

Csse Ht'll ring Replacement Special tools are required for removal of both shaft support bearings in the case halves. Due 10 the number of special tools required. it may be less expensive to have the bearings replaced by a dealer. Considerable money can be saved by removing and disassembling the subtransmission yourself and taking it in for bearing replacement.

Tables are on the following page.

CHAPTER FIVE

130

....

Table 1 CLUTCH TORQUE IPECIFICATIONI Item

Clutch locknut (. haft-drlve) Manual Centrifugal Clutch locknut (chain-drive) Clutch relea.e mechanlam nut

ft.·lb •

60-80 90-110 40-60 10-12

43.5-58 55-79.5 29-43.5 7-8.5

T.ble 2 CLUTCH IPECIFICATIONI We.r limit

Item

2.7-2.9 mm (0.10S-0.114 in.)

11 .8-12.0 mm (0.48-0.47 In.)

Friction dlac thlckneaa Friction dl.c claw width

2_4 mm (0.094 In.) 11 .0 mm (0.43 In.) 0.1 mm (0.004 In.)

Clutch plate warpage Clutch apring. Irae length Shaft-driven Chain-driven

27.4 mm (1 .08 In.) 29.5 mm (1 .18 in.)

Tabl. 3 INTERNAL IHIFT MECHANISM SPECIFICATIONS W •• r limit

Itam

Shift lorllllnger thlckne,.

No. 1, 2 and 3 Rever.e Shift lork groove width in gear.

No. 1, 2 and 3 Rever. e Shift lort-Io-gear groove cle arance

4.30-4.40 mm (0.189-0.173 in.)

3.80-3.90 mm (0.150-0.154 in.)

4.50-4.60 mm (0.177-0.181 in.)

4.00-4.10 mm (0.157-0.181 In.) 0.10-0.30 mm (0.004-0.012 in.)

....

0.50 mm (0.020 In.)

Tabl. 4 SUSTRANSMISSION TORQUE IPECIFICATIONI Item

Ca.e mounting boIta Upper Lower Case bolll Gearahlft arm nut Oil level check bolt Oil fill cap Oil dra in bolt

40-80 70-88 18·28 18·20 6· 10 18·23 18·23

ft.·lb.

29-34 50·83 13-20 11·15 4.5·10 13-17 13·17

CHAPTER SIX

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the shutoff valve. a single carburetor, a fuel pump (shaft-driven models) and an air filter.

The exhaust system consists of an exhaust pipe and a muffier.

This chapter includes service procedures for all pans of the fuel system and exhaust system. Air filter service is covered in Chapter Three. Table I and Table 2 are at the end of this chapter.

CARBURETOR OPERATION For proper operation a gasoline engine must be supplied with fuel and air mixed in proper proponions by weight. A mixture in which thert is an excess of fuel is said to be rich. A lean mixture is one which contains insufficient fuel. A properly adjusted carburetor supplies the proper mixture to the engine under all operating conditions.

The carburetor consists of several major systems. A Iloat and float valve mechanism maintain a constant fuel level in the float bowl.

The pilot system supplies fuel at low speeds. The main fuel system supplies fuel at medium and high speeds. A starter (choke) system supplies the very rich mixture needed to start a cold engine.

CARBURETOR SERVICE Major carburetor service (removal and cleaning) should be performed at the intervals indicated in Table 1 in Chapter Three or when poor engi ne performance, hesitation and little or no response to mixture adjustment are observed. Alterations in jet

size, throttle slide cutaway and jet needle position, etc., should be attempted only ir you're experienced in this type or "tuning" work; a bad guess could result in costly engine damage or, at best, poor performance. Ir, after servici ng the carburetor and making the adjustments described in this chapter, the ATV does not perrorm correctly (and assuming that other ractors affecting performance are correct, such as ignition timing and condition, etc.), the vehicle should be checked by a dealer or a qualified performance tuning specialist.

Carburetor spedfications are covered in Table I at the end of this chapter.

Removal/Installation I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the park.ing brake or block the wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seat and rront fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3A. On shaft-driven models. perform the following.: a. Disconnect the vent line (Figure I) from the air filter inlet case. b. Remove I"e clamps and bolts securing the air filter inlet case and remove the case (Figure 2).

3B. On chain-driven models. remove the fuel tank as described in this chapter.

4. On shaft-driven models, perform the rollowing: a. Disconnect the fuel line (Figure 3) from the carburetor. Plug the end orthe ruelline with a golr tee to prevent the discharge of ruel.

132

CHAPTER SIX

b. Unhook the crankcase vent tube from the clip (Figure 4) on the intake lube.

5. Disconnect the vent tube (A. Figure 5) from the carburetor body.

NOTE Prior to remol'ing the top cap.

Ihoroughty clean the area arOl/nd it so 110 dirt willfal! infO the carburetor.

6. Unscrew the carburetor lOp cap and pull the thronle valve assembly up and out of the carburetor. Refer to Figure 6 for shaft-drivcn models or B, Figure 5 for chain-driven models.

NOTE

If the top cap and throttle )'oll'e

assembly are

nOI

going

10

be

f(!mol'ed

from the (hrOIl/e cable for cleaning, wrap Ihem in a clean shop cloth or place Ihem in a plastic bag 10 help keep rhem clean.

7. Loosen the screws on the clamping bands on each side of the carburetor. Refer to Figure 7 for shaB-driven models or C. Figure S for chain-driven models.

8. Slide the clamping bands away from the carburetor.

9. Note the routing of the carburetor drain tube through the frame. Carefull y pull the lube rree from the frame and leave it attached to the carburetor.

10. Carefully remove the carburetor from Ihe rubber mounting lUbes on the engine and the air filter air box.

II. Take the carburetor to a workbench for disassembly and cleaning.

12. To remove the throttle valve from the throttle cable (Figure 8). depress the throttle spring away fro m the throttle valve. Push the throttle cable end down and oul along the groove in the side or the

fUEL AND EXHA UST SYST EM S

133 throttle valve and remove Ihe thfollie valve and needle jel assembl y.

NOTE Do 11m lose the spring clip Ihar will come Ollt when the needle is remore(!.

13. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

14. Align the groove in Ihc throttle slide with the pin in the carburetor body (Figure 9).

15. Make sure Ihe screws on the clamping bands arc light to avoid a vacuum toss and possible valve damage.

Disassemblyl Assembly

Refer to Figure 10 for this procedu re.

1. Remove the screws (Figure II ) securing Ihe ...- float bowl and remove the float bowl.

2. Remove the float pivot pin (Figure 12) and remove the float.

J, Remove Ihc float valve from the fioat arm.

4. Remove Ihe pilol jet (Figure 13), S. Remove the screw (A, Figure 14) securing the baffie plate and the needle valve plate.

6. Remove the baffle plate (8, Figure 14).

7. Remove the needle valve plate (Figure 15).

8. Remove the needle valve and O-ring (Figure 16).

9. Remove the main jet and the needle jet holder (Figure 17).

10. Tum the carburetor over and gently tap the side of the body. Catch Ihe needle jet as it falls Oul into your hand. If the needle jet does not fall out, use a plastic or fiber 1001 and gcn lly push Ihe needle jCt oul. Do nOI use any metal tool for this purpose.

NOTE Prior 10 remol'l'ng Ihe pilot screw, carefully streW il in unril it lightly sealS. Coum and record rhl' number of turns so il can be installed in Ihe same posillon.

II . Unscrew the pilot screw and spring (A. figure 18).

12. Unscrew Ihe idle adJusl screw and spring (B, figure 18).

13. Remo ve the choke assembly from the carburetor body (A , Figure 19).

14. Remove the float bowl gasket (B, Figure 19) from the carburetor body o r float bowl. The gasket may stick to either part.

15. If not already remo ved, push the jet needle from the throttle slide. Do nOI lose the jet needle retaining clip.

CHAPTER SIX

134

®

!_._ ._ .

Sh.ft·dri....n models

®

® CARBURETOR 1, 5 ••1 2. Top cap 3. O.ring

4. Spring 5. Jet needle Ilopper plata

~"'~o:"-"

6. E·rlng

7. Washer 8. Jet ne.dle 9.

10.

11 .

12.

Throttle llide Starter limiter Car1:luretor body Needle jet

13. N.edle iet holder 14. Main let

IS. Pilot iet 16. Throttle adjust acrew allembly

17. Pilot Jet acrew •••• mbly 18. Needle "live ,g, Float 20. Float bowl 21 . Drain Icrew 22. Drain tube

135

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS NOTE

Further dlsassembfJ' is neuher nl'Cessary nor recommended. /f lhrottle

or choke shafts or butter/Ill's are damaged. lake the carbllrelOr body to a dealer fo r replacemem.

16. Clean and inspect all pans as described in Ihis cha pter.

17. Assembly is the reverse of these disassembly steps, noting the following.

18. Install the needle jet wjlh the long portion from the shoulder in first as shown In FiMure 20.

19. Make sure the a·ring scal 15 in place on the needle jet holder (Figure 21) and the needle jet (Figure 22) prior to installation.

20. Inslal1 the needle jet clip in the correct groove; refer to Table I at the end of Ihis chapter.

2 t. Check the float height and adjust if necessary as described in Ihis chapler.

®

®

®

•

CHAPTER SIX

136

22. After the carburclOr has been disassembled, the pilot screw and the idle speed should be adjusted as described in this chapler.

®

Cleaning/Inspection I. Clean all pans, except rubber or plastic pans. in a good grade of carburetor cleaner. This solution is available at most automotive or motorcycle supply stores in a small, resealable tank with a dip basket for just a few dollars. Ifit is tightly sealed when not in U~, the solution will last for several cleanings.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for correct soak time (usually about 112 hour).

2. Remove all pans from the cleaner and blow dry with compressed air. Blow oul the jets with

compressed air.

@

•

CAUTION

If compressed air is no/ al'ai/able, allow the pans 10 air dry or lise a clean lint-free cloth. Do flOI use a POfWT towel to dry carburetor pans, as small paper particles may plug openings in the carburetor body or jets.

CAUTION Do not use a piece of wire

to clean jels and passages as minor gouges in Ihejel can aller flow role and lIPS('/ Ihe flleflair mL'aure.

3. Be sure 10 clean out the overflow tube in Ihe Roat bowl from both ends.

4. Inspect the end of the float valve needle (Figure 23) for wear or damage. Also check the inside of the needle valve body. If either part is damaged. replace as a SCI. A damaged needle valve or a particle of dirt or grit in the needle valve assembly will cause the carburetor to flood and overflow fuel.

S. Inspect all O-ring seals. O-ring seals tend to become hardened after prolonged use and heal and therefore lose their ability to seal properly.

6. Examine the end of the pilot screw and the throttle adjust screw. If grooves or roughness are present on either screw, replace it. A damaged end will prevent smooth low-speed engine operation.

CARB URETOR ADJ USTJ\'IENTS

Float Adjustment The carburetor assembly has to be removed and panially disassembled for this adjustment.

I. Remove the carburetor as described in this chapler.

2. Remo ve the screws (Figure II ) securing the float bowl and remove float bowl.

®

3. Hold the carburetor so Ihe float arm is JUSt touching the float needle-not pushing it down.

Use a fl oat level gauge, vern ier caliper or small ruler and measure the distance from the carburetor body 10 the floa\. The correct height is listed in

Table I. 4. Adjust by carefully bending the lang on the fl oat arm (Figure 24). If the float level is set too high, fuel will run from the float bowl overfl ow tube and cause the engine to flood. Also it will cause a rich fuel/air mixture. Ifit is set too low, the mixture will be too lean and the engine will stumble on acceleration and run 100 lean to develop peak efficiency and power.

S. Reassemble and install the carburetor.

Need le J et Adjustment The position of the needle jet can be adjusted to affe<:t the fueVair mixture fo r medium throttle openi ngs.

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

137 NOTE Rl'Cord the clip position prior to remOI'al.

6. Remove the needle clip relainer and remove Ihe jet needle, 7. Raising Ihe needle (lowering the clip) will enrich the mixture during mid-throttle opening. while lowering the needle (raising the clip) will lean the mixture. Refer 10 Figure 25.

8, Refer to Table 1 for standard clip position.

9. Reassemble and install the carburetor top cap.

Jet_

Idle Speed lind Pilot Sere'" Adjustment Refer to Chapter Three for this procedure.

ÂŽ

It is not neces~ry to remove the carburetor hut the lOp of the carburetor must be removed for this adjustment.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake or block the wheel so the vehicle will nOi roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seat, the front fender and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3A. On shan-driven models, perform the

fo llowing: a. Di sconnect the vent line (FIgure 1) from the air filter inlet case. b. Remove the damps and bolls securing the air filter inlet case and remove the case (Figure 2).

38. On chain-dri ven models, remove the fuei lank as described in Ihis chapter,

I

I

NOTE Prior to remorlng Ihe lOP cap. thoroughly clean Ihe area aroulld It so no dirt will fall into Ihe carburetor.

4. Unscrew the carburetor lOp cap and pull the throttle valve assembly up and OUI of Ihe carburetor. Refer 10 Hgure 6 for shaft-driven models or B, Figure 5 for chain-dri ven models.

5. Depress the throttle valve spring and remove the throttle cable from Ihe Ihrollie valve (Figure 8).

THROTTLE CA BLE Remo~'al

I. Place the A TV on level ground and set the parking brake or block the wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seal. Ihe front fender and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven , 3A. On shaft-driven models, perform the following: a, Disconnect the vent line (Figure I ) from the air filter inlet case. b. Remove the clamps and bolts securing the air filter inlet case and remove the case (Figure 2).

3B. On chain-driven models, remove the fuel tank as described in this chapter.

NOTE PrIOr to remoring the top cap, thoroughl), clean the area around If so no dirt lI'ill ja/l into the carburetor.

4. Unscrew the carburetor top cap and pull Ihe throttle valve assembly up and out of Ihe carburetor. Refer to Figure 6 for sha ft-driven models or B, Figure 5 for chain-driven models.

5. Depress Ihe throuie valve spring and remove the throttle cable from the throttle valve (Figure 8).

NOTE Placl' a clean shop rag orer the top oj the carburetor to keep an), foreign matter jrom Jailing into the throttle slidl' area.

6. Disassemble the Ihrollie lever assembly as follows: a. Remove Ihe screws (Figure 26) securing the throttle cover and separate the 2 halves of Ihe thrOllle lever assembly. b. Remove the throllie cable end from the throule lever.

â&#x20AC;˘

138

CHAPTER SIX

7. Disconnect the throttle cable from any clips holding the cable to the fra me.

NOTE The piece a/siring allached;n the next step will be used to pull the new thrOllle cable back through the frame so it wi/l be routed in the exact same position as /he old one.

S. Tie a piece of heavy string or cord (approximately 6·8 ft. / 1.8-2.4 m long) to the carburetor end of the throttle cable. Wrap this end with masking or duct tape. Do not use an excc:ssive amount of tape as il will be pulled through the fmme. and on some models a rubber grommet, during removal. Tie the other cnd of the string to the frame.

9. AI the throttle lever end of the cable, carefull y pullihe cable (and 3n3chcd string) oul through the frame. Make sure the attached string follows the sa me path of the cable through the frame.

ID. Remove the tape and untie the string from the old cable.

Installation I. Lubricate the new cable as described in Chapter Three.

2. Tie the string (used during removal) to the new throttle cable and wrap it with tape.

3. Carefully pull the string back through the frame, routing the new cable through the same path as the old cable.

4. Remove the tape and unlie the string from the cable and the frame.

S. Reverse Steps 1-9 of RemOl'al. noting the followi ng.

6. Apply grease to the pivot bushing in the throttle lever cover and to the throttle lever.

7. Operate the throttle lever and make sure the carburetor thronle linkage is operating correctly and with no binding. If operation is incorrect or there is binding, carefully check that the cable is attached correctly and there are no tight bends in the cable.

8. Adjuslthe throltle cable as described in Chapter Three.

9. Test ride the ATV and make sure the thronle is operating correctly.

CHO KE CABLE (SHAFT· DRI VEN MODELS) Removal/ lnst.allation J. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat, the front fender and rear

fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3A. On LT·F230 models. perform the following: a. Slide the rubber boot (Figure 27) back off the choke lever assembl y on the throttle lever assembly. b. Remove the choke cable from the choke lever.

38. On LT230GE models. perform the following: a. Remove the set screw securing the choke knob to the cable and remove the choke knob. b. Remove the choke cable (A, Figure 28) from the odometer assembly (B, Figure 28).

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

139

â&#x20AC;˘

carburetor end of the choke cable. Wrap Ihis end with masking or duct tape. Do not usc an excessive amount of tape as it will be pulled through the frame during removal. Tie the other end of the Siring to the frame.

8. At the odometer housing end of the cable, carefully pull the cable (and attached string) out through the frame . Make sure the allached siring follows the same path that the cable does through the frame.

9. Remove the tape and untie the string from the old cable.

10. Lubricate the new cable as described in Chapter Three.

II. Tie the string to the new choke cable and wrap it with tape.

12. Carefull y pull the siring back th rough the fra me routing the new cable through the same path as the old ca ble.

13. Remove the tape and untie the string from the cable and the fram e.

14. Attach the choke cable to the carburetor choke plunger and scrtw the choke plunger imo the carburetor body.

15A. On LT-F230 models, attach the upper end of the choke cable to the choke lever on the throttle lever assembl y. Slide the rubber boot back into place.

158. On l T 230GE models. attach the upper end of the choke cable to the odometer housing and install the choke knob.

16. Operate the choke lever and make sure the carburetor choke plunger is operating correttly and with no binding. Ifoperation is incorrect or there is binding carefully check that the cable is attached correctly and there arc no tight bends in the cable.

17. Install the rear and front fenders and the seat.

FUEL S HUTOFF VALVE

4. Disconnect the choke cable from any clips holding the cable to the frame.

5. Unscrew the choke plunger assembly (Figure 29) from the carburetor body.

6. Disconncrt the cho ke ca ble (A, Figure 30) from the choke plunger (B. FiKurc 30).

NOTE The PINt' of Sirlflg allached III the lIex/ sU'p ",il/ be used to pllllihe fI(,W choke cable back Ihrough till' frame so II will

Ix> f OUled old cable.

/11 Ihl'

same

POSltlO1I

as the

7. Tic a piece of heavy string or cord (approximately 6-8 ft. 1.8-2.4 m long) to tht'

Remonlll nstall alion (Sha fl-drh'cn Models) I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake or block the wheel so the vehicle will not roll in eit her di rcction.

2. Disconnect the ballery negative lead (Figure 31 ).

3. Remove the seal and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Siphon off all fuel from the fuel tank. The fuel tank must be almost empty in order to perform this procedure.

5. Tum the fuel shutoff val ve to the OFF position.

6. Remove the screws securing the fuel shutoff v3 1\'C (Figure 32) to the fuel tank's mounting bracket.

CHAPTER SIX

140 7. Disconnect the fuel line going from the fuel shutoff' valve 10 the carburetor. Insen a golf tee into the end of the fuel line to prevent fuel from draining out.

8. Carefully pull the fuel shutoff valve and fuel lines away from the mounting bracket.

9. The ON fucl line is altached to the left-hand fiuing on the [uel shutoff valve and the other end is

attached 10 the upper fitting on the fucl tank.

10. The RESERVE [uel line is attached to the right-hand fitting on the fuct shutoff valve and the other end is attached to the lower fitting on the fuel tank.

11. Move both clamps up and off the fmings on the fucl tank.

12. Withdraw both fuel lines and strainers from the fittings on the fuel Innk.

13. Remove the fuel shutoff valve and fuel lines from the chassis.

14. Install by reve rsing these removal steps, noting the fo llowing.

IS. Be sure to install the correct fuel line to the correct filting on the fuel shutoff valve and to insen the correct fuel line to the correct fitting on the fuel tank.

16. Check for fuel leakage after installation is completed.

R~mo"al!lnstallation

(Chain--(lril'en Models) I. Remove the fuel tank as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the screws (FiRure 33) securing the fuel shutoff valve to the fuel tank.

3. Remove the shutoff valve and gasket from the fuel tank.

4. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

5. Install a new gasket between the shutoff valve and the fuel tank. Tighten the screws securely.

6. Check for fuel leakage after installation is completed.

FUEL TANK ISHAFT.DRIVEN MODELS)

1. Vent hOle 2. Fuet separalor 3. Washer 4. Lockwasher 5. Bolt e. Clamp 7. Vent hose B. Clamp 9. Label 10. Fuet lank guard 11 . SprIng clip 12. Fuel futer cap 13. aasket 14. Fuel tank 15. Bolt 16. Fuel ,hutofl ".l'Ie 17. Fuel tine (to carburetor) lB. Clamp 19. Fuel fitter (RESERVE fueJ line) 20. Fuel filler (ON fuel line) 21. Fuel line (ON position) 22. Fuel Une (RESERVE line) 23. Screw 24. Rubber cUlhion 25. Spacer

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS FUEL TANK

Remo,'ai/ installation (Shaft-drh'en Models)

Refer to Figure 34 for Ihis procedure. \. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the park ing brake or block the wheel so the vehicle will nOl roll in either direction.

2. Disconnect the bauery negative lead (Figure 31 ).

J, Remove the seal and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Remove the right-hand rear wheel as described in Chapter Nine.

S. Siphon off all fuel from the fuel tank. The fuel tank must be almost empty in order to perfo rm Ihis procedure.

6. Turn the fue l shutoff valve to the OFF position.

7. Disconnect the vacuum line (A. Figure 35) from the fuel pump.

141

9. Unhook the vent line (A, Figure J6) from the clips on the fue l tank guard.

10. Remove the bolts (B, Figure 36) securing the fuel tank and guard to the frame.

II. Remove the fuel tank and guard. Don't lose the rubber cushion and spacer al each of the fuel ta nk's mounting tabs. i2. Install by reversi ng these removal steps, noting Ihe following.

13. Inspeet the rubber cushions in the mounting tabs on the fuel tank. Replace as a set if any are damaged or stani ng to deteriorate.

14. During assembly, be careful not to damage or kink any of the fuel lines.

15. Be sure to install a spacer and rubber cush ion in each fuel tank mounting tab. Tighten the bolts securely.

16. Check for fuel leakage after installation is completed.

8. Disconnect the fuel line (8, rigure 35) going from the fue l pump to the carburetor. Leave the fuel line atlached to the fuel pump. Plug the fuel line with a golf tee to prevent fue l spillage,

Remm'al/ lnsta llat ion (Cha in-([rilen Models)

Refer 10 Figure 37 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake or block the wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

FUEL TANK (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS) 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Vent hose Fuel filler ''''h7~\\ 11. Fuelshuloff valve Fue' tank 12. Lockw.sher Rubber cushion "----{I Screw Spacer Rubber cushion Spacer W.sher Spacer Bolt

,_...c=

15. Mud guard

@

16. Hose clamp 17. Fuel line (to c arburetor)

â&#x20AC;˘

142

CHAPTER SIX

2. Disconnect the banery negative lead (Figure JI ).

3. Remove the seat and the front and rear fenders as described in Chapler Eleven.

4. Tum the fuel shutoffvalvc 10 the OFF position.

S. Disconnect the fuel line (A, fig ure 38) going to the carburetor. Plug the fuel line with a golf lee to prevent fuel spillage.

7. Be sure to install a spacer and rubber cushion in each fuel tank guard mounting hole. Tighten the bolts securely.

8. Be sure 10 route the fuel lines to the correct fittings, otherwise the fuel pump will not operate correctly.

9. Check for fuel leakage after installation is completed.

NOTE

During the front fender

remOl'al

procedure. the bolts securing the from jenderand the rear a/the/lie! tank were

remol¡ed.

6. Remove the boll, lockw3sher and washer (8 , Figure 38) on each side securing the fue l tank to the frame. Don't lose the rubber cushion and spacer at each of the fuel tank's mounting tabs.

7. Insta ll by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

S. Inspect the rubber cush ions in the mounting tabs on the fuel tank. Replace as a set if any are damaged or starting to deteriorate.

9. Make sure the fron t holes (Figure 39) of the rubber mud guard are aligned with the fuel tank front mounting holes in the frome.

10. Be sure to install a spacer and rubber cushion in each fuel tank mounting tab. Tighten the bolts Stturely.

II. Check for fuel leakage after installation is completed.

FUE L PUMP (SHAFT-DRI VEN M ODELS)

The fue l pump is operated by engine vacuum when the engine is running. The pump cannol be serviced and if defective must be replaced.

RemovalllnslaUalion I. Prior to removing the fuel tank, remove the bolts (Figure 32) securing the fuel pump to the fuel tank guard.

2. Remove the fuel tank as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the bolts. washers and nuts securing the fuel pump to the fuel tank guard and remove the fuel pump.

4. Prior to disconnecting any of the fuel lines from the fuel pump, nOle where they go. Refer to Figure 40.

5. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

6. Inspect the rubber cushions in the mounting holes in the fuel tank guard. Replace as a sel ifany are damaged or starting to deteriorate.

Vac uum line

Fuel inlet

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

143

EXHA UST SYSTEM

The exhaust system is a vital performance com ponent and frequently, because of its design, it is a vulnerable piece of equipment.

If the exhaust system is damaged o r jfthe muffler becomes clogged with carbon, the performance of the engine can be greally affected. Because the exhaust system (especiall y the exhaust pipe) is out in the open, it can easily be damaged.

Check the exhaust system for deep dents and frac tu res and repair them or replace pans immediately. Check the muffler frame mounting flanges for fractures and loose bolts or nuts. Check the cylinder head mounting fl ange for tightness. A loose exhaust pipe connection will cause excessive exhaust noise and rob the engine of power.

The exhaust system on the shan-driven model consists of a one-piece exhaust pipe, muffler and tailpipe assembly (Figure 4 1). The chain-driven model consists of an exha ust pipe and a separate muffler (Figure 42).

EXHAUST SYSTEM ISHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS)

@ 41

~:::'1I"2 j 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Nut G.sket Threaded stud Clamp Screw Lockwasher Washer Heat shield

~~"I"'7cFf 11 5 12 9. BoH 10. He.t shield 11 . exhaust pipe and muffler unit 12. Spark arrester 13. Plug

EXHAUST SYSTEM ICHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS)

@)....I 2 3

~~:':;'

Clamp 8. Ellhaust pipe 9. Threaded .tud

::: ~,~.

12. Lockwllher 13. Bolt 14. Heallhield

15. Bolt

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake or block the wheel so the vehicle will not rolt in either direction.

2. Remo ve the seat and the front and rear fenders as described in C hapler Ele\·en.

3. Remo ve the nuts (Figure 43) securing the exhaust pipe to the cylinder head.

4. Remo ve the bolts and washers (Figure 44) securing the muffler to the frame.

5. Move the exhaust system toward the front of the ATV to clear the mounting studs on the cylinder head and re movc Ihe assembl y from the frame.

6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the followi ng.

7. Make sure the cylinder head exha ust pori gasket is in place.

8. Tighten the nu ts on the cylinder head first , then the bolts securing Ihe mufflcr to the frame . This

2Lji-)'-.,, ~=-8

1. Washer 2. Spacer 3. Rubber CUlhlon 4. Muffler

;7.

RemO\'al/ l nslallat ion (Shaft-drh'en Models)

) 8

~IJ • 5 j t.. a (

~

0

('-""iL(~---~ ;' ¥ n: I~

51

II

~

~ 112 13 r::r11

f 13

.

..... tf=Sl ,T ~~==

14 15

@ 10

6

CHAPTER SIX

144

will minimize the chances of an exhaust leak at the cylinder head. Tighten tbe nuts and bolts to the torque specifications listed in Table 2.

9. After installation is complete, stan the engine and make sure there are no exhaust leaks.

Removal/ Installation (Chaln..drh'cn Models)

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake or block the wheels so the vehicle

wilt not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seat and the fron t and rear fenders as described in Chapler Eleven.

3. Remove the nuts (Figure 45) securing the exhaust pipe to the cylinder head.

4. Loosen the clamping bolt (Figure 46) where lhe exhaust pipe and the muffler join.

5. Move the exhaust pipe toward the front of the

ATV and disconnect it frolT! the muffler. Don't lose the gasket in the fi n ing 81 the front of the muffler.

6. Remove the bolts and washers (Figure 47) securing the mumer to the frame.

7. Move the kicks tarter partially down and remove Ihe mumer from the frame.

8. Inslall by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

9. Make sure the cylinder head exhaust pon gasket and joint gasket are in place.

10. Tighten the nuts on the cylinder head first. then the bolts securing the mumer to the frame.

Then tighten the damping bolt where the 2 parts join. This will minimize the chances of an exhaust leak at the cyl inder head. T ighten the bolts and nuts to the torque specifica tions listed in Table 2.

11. After installation is complete, start the engine and make sure there are no exhaust leaks.

ÂŽ

ÂŽ

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

145

T.bl. 1 CARBURETOR SPECIFICATION I

Item Model No. 1.0. No.

1985 1986 Bore size Mein jet No. Main air jet Jet needle 1985 1986 Jet needle clip position Needle tet

Pilot iet No. Shlrter let No. Pilol screw opening

Floal level

Mikunl VM24SS 22AOO

18AOO lUOl 24 mm (O.94 in.)

115 1.8 mm (0.06 in.)

28 mm (1.02 In.)

112.5

1.2 mm

SHN23

4JR40 4JR45

..,

4th groove

17.5 30 2 3/8 turns out 23.5-25.5 mm

(O.92- t .OO in.)

Idle speed

Mlkuni VM28SS

1,350-1,450 rpm

3rd groo ....

.-0

"

50 2 turn, out 20.8·22.8 mm (0.82-0.90 In.) 1,350-1,450 rpm

Table 2 EXHAUST SYSTEM TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Item Exhaust pipe nuta Muffler mounting bolta

9·12 18-28

8.5·8.5 13-20

•

CHAPTER SEVEN

ELEcrRICAL SYSTEM

This chapler contains operating principles and service and test procedures for all electrical and ignition components. The battery and spark plugs are covered in Chapter Three.

The electrical system includes the following systems: a. Charging system (models equippped with a battery). b. Ignition system. c. Lighting system.

Tables I路S are at the end of this chapter.

CHARGING SYSTEM (MODELS SO EQUI PPE D) The charging system consists of the bauery. alternator and a solid路state voltage regulatorl rectifier. Figure I shows the charging system.

Alternating current generated by the alternator is rectified to direct current. The voltage regulator maintains the voltage to the electrical load (lights, ignition, etc.) at a constant voltage regardless of variations in engine speed and load.

Charging System Output Test (Voltage Regualtor Test) Whenever a charging system problem is suspected, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condition before going any further.

Clean and test the battery as described in Chapter Three. Make sure all electrical connectors are tight and free of cOrTosion.

I. Start the engi ne and let it reach normal operating tcmperature; shut off the engine.

2. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the parking brake.

J. Remove the seat.

4. Remove the bolt (FIgure 2) securing the tool holder and remove the tool holder and tool bag.

5. Connect a portable tacnometer, following the manufacturer's instructions.

6. Start the engine and let it idle.

7. Leave the battery wires connected to the battery and connect a 0-15 DC voltmeter between the battery positive and negative terminals.

8. Increase engine speed to 5,000 rpm. At this engine speed, the voltmeter should read between 14 and 15 volts. If the charging current is under 14V or over 15V, perform the A/ternator No路load Performance Test in this chapter.

9. If the alternator passes the no路load test, then the voltage regulator/ rectifier is faulty and must be replaced as described in this chapter.

10. After the test is completed, disconnect the voltmeter and portable tachometer.

I I. Install all items removed.

Alternator No-load Performllnce Test I. Stan the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature; shut off the engine.

2. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

147 Ignition switch

- - - - ' " Light switch

CHARGING SYSTEM

Voltage regulator/ rectifier

COl unit

ÂŽ

J. Remove the seal and the front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Connect a portable tachometer following the manufacturer's instructions.

5. Disconnect the electrical connector (Figure 3) containing 4 wires (3 yellow, I red).

6. Start the engine and increase engine speed to

5,000 rpm.

7. Connect an AC vollmeter between each of \he 3 yellow terminals in the alternator side of the electrical connector.

S. AI Ihis engine speed the voltmeter should read above 55 volts. If the charging current is under 55V. the alterna tor is faully and must be replaced.

9, After the lest is completed, disconnect the voltmeter and portable tachometer.

10. Connect the allemalor electrical connector.

11. Install all items removed.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR (SHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS)

NOTE

The chain-dril'en models are equipped with a I'DIlage regulator but il is part of the lighting system.

Remonl/ I nstallation I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

.

CHAPTER SEVEN

148 2. Remove the seat and the front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Disconnect the battery negative lead (Figure 4).

4. Disconnect the electrical connector (A, Figure 5) goi ng to the voltage regulator from the wiring harness.

5. Remove the bolts (8 , Figure 5) securing the voltage regulator (and ground connectors) 10 the frame and remove the voltage regulator.

6. Install by reversing these removal steps. noting the following..

7. Be sure 10 install the CD! ground connector to the front bolt and the voltage regulator/rectifier ground connector to the rear bolt.

8. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of corrosion and are tight .

ALTERNATOR (SHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS)

The alternator generates electricity for the ignition system and lighting system. Two coils are attached 10 the stator plat~; on~ coil is used to generate primary system current ror the igni tion coil. T he other coil generates alternating current ror the lighting system.

Rotor Remo"all1 nstallation NOTE

This procedure is shown with addllional pans remol'eri from the engine for clarity. It is no, necessary 10 remOI'e any paris other than those sfH!Cified in this procedure.

Rerer to Figure 6 ror this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and rront render as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the ruel tank as described in Chapter

CD

ALTERNATOR (SHAFT¡DR1VEN MODELS,

1

J.

Six. 4. Disconnect the alternator electrical connector (A, Figure S) containing 4 wires (3 yellow, 1 red) and the CO l pickup coil elcctrical conncctor containing 2 wires (1 black, 1 green).

5. Remove the recoil starter as described in Chapter Seven.

6. Shiflthe transmission into 5th gear and remove the gearshift pedal (A, Figure 7).

7. Remove the bolts securing the reverse cable bracket (0, Figure 7) to the cran kcase.

8. Remove the clamping bolt and remove the reverse gear shirt arm (C, Figure 7). Remove the reverse gear arm and cable down and out or the way.

1. Woodruff key 2. Screw 3. Rotor

4. Nut

5. Bolt 6. 51. 1M/COl

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

149

9. Remove the nut and washer (Figure 8) securing the recoil starter cup and remove the cup.

10. Remove the bolts securing the left-hand

crankcase cover and stator assembly and remove the cover and gasket. Don'l lose the locating dowels.

II . Remove the crankcase spacer and D-ring seal from the crankshaft (Figure 9).

12. Have an assistant apply the rear brake. This will keep the rotor from rotating while removing the nul.

13. Remove the nut (figure 10) securing the alternator rolOr.

14. Screw in a flywheel puller until it SlOpS. Use the Suzuki flywhee l puller (part No. 09930¡3493 1), K & N (pan No. 82-0210) or equivalent.

CAUTION Don 'Ilry to remm'e the fOior without a

puller: any allempt 10 do so will ullimately lead to some /or", 0/ damage to the engine and/or rotor.

Many aftermarket types of pullers are al'aifab/e from most motorcycle dealers or mail order houses, The cost oforle of these pullers is ahow $10 and it makes an excellem addition to any mechanic's tool box. If you can'l buy or borrow one, hare a dealer relllOl'e the rOlor.

15, Hold the puller wi th a wrench and gradually tigh ten the center bolt until the rotor disengages rrom the crankshaft NOTE If the rOlDr is djfficulllD remOl'e, strike the puller center bolt with a hammer a few times. This will usually break it loose.

CAUTION Nerer strike the rOior with a hammer as this could demagnetize the rotor, 1/ demagneti=ed the rOior must be replaced, CAUTION If lIormal rolDr remOl'af attemplS fail, do nOI force rhe puller as the threads may be stripped OUI of the rOlor, causing expensil'e damage, Take Ihe I'ehie/e to a dealer and hal'e them remOI'e the rotor,

16. Remove the rotor and the puller, Remove the pu ller from the rotor.

â&#x20AC;˘

ISO

CHAPTER SEVEN

17. Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft, then remove the starter ciUlch assembly and the needle bearing.

CAUTION Carefully inspectlhe inside of the rotor for small bolts. washers or olher metal ~lrash H that may hal'(' been picked up by the magnets. These small metal bilS

can cause se\'ere damage

/0

the

alternator stator plate components.

18. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting

the following.

19. Make sure the Woodruff key is in place on the cranks haft and align the keyway in the rotor with the key when installing the rotor.

20. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the nut threads prior to installation.

21. Ha ve an assistant apply the rear brake. This will keep the rOlor from rotating while tightening the nut.

22. Install and lighten the rOlor nut to 150·170 Nom (108.123 fl .-lb.).

23. Install the crankcase spacer and O-ring seal onto the crankshaft (Figure 11 ).

24. Install the locati ng dowels and a new case gasket.

Stator Assembly Remo"al/ l nstallation I. Perform Steps 1-10, AliernalOr (Shajt-dril'en Models) Rotor RemOI'alllnstaflation in this chapter.

2. If necessary. remove the screws (A, Figure 12) securing the stator assembly to the left-hand crankcase cover.

3. Remove the screws (8, Figure 12) securi ng the COl pickup coil to the left-hand crankcase cover.

4. Pull the electrical harness and rubber grommet (C, Figure 12) from the len·hand crankcase cover and remove the stator and COl pickup coil assembly.

5. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

6. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 21 (4) to the screw threads prio r to installation. Install the screws securing the stator assembly and tighten securely.

7. Make sure the rubber grommet is positioned correctl y in the cover to prevent an oil leak.

8. Route the eleetrical harness the same way it was before removal. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of corrosion and are tight.

9. Install the alternator rotor as described in this chapter.

®

MAGNETO (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS)

1. Woodruff k.y 2. Nut

3. Scr.w 4. Wu her

5. Rotor 6. Bolt 7. Stator/COl ....mbly

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

lSI necessary, stan the engine and lei it warm up to normal operating temperature.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and sct the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and front fender as described in Chapter Eleven .

3. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six. 4. Disconnect the alternator eleetrical conneclOr (Figure 3) containing 4 wires (3 yellow, 1 red) and the eDI pickup coil electrical connector containing 2 wires ( I black, I green).

5. Connttt an ohmmeter to the stator assembly half of the eltttrical connectors and chttk each coil as indicated in Table I .

6. If any of the coi ls do not meet the resistance specifications listed in Table I , the alternator stator and pick up coil assembly must be replaced as a unit. The individual coils cannot be replaced .

7. Connect the electrical conntttors. Make sure all conntttors are free of corrosion and are tight .

S. Install all items removed.

MAGNETO (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODElS) Rotor Removal/ Installation Refer 10 Figure 13 for Ihis procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and the front fender as

10. Refill the engine with the correct type and quantity of engine oil as described in Chapler Three.

Alternator Coil Testing (Shaft-drh'en Models) It is not necessary 10 remove the stator plale to perform the following tests.

In order to gel accurate resistance measurements, the stator assembly and coil must be warm (minimum temperature is 68' F/ 20' C), If

described in Chapter Eleven.

J. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.

4. Disconnect the magneto electrical connector (Figure 14) containing 2 wires (I pink, I brown).

5. Shift the transmission in to 5th gear.

6. Remove the clamping boll (A, Figure 15) on the gearshift lever.

7. Remove the bolts securing Ihe gearshift lever (B, Figure 15) and left-hand foot peg assembly to the frame.

8. Remove the gearshift lever assembly.

9. Remove the bolts securing the drive sprocket cover (A, Figure 16) and remove the cover.

10. Remove the bolts securi ng the left-hand crankcase cover and stator assembly (B, Figure 16) and remove the cover and gasket. Oon'\ lose the locating dowels.

II. Have an assistant apply the rear brake. This will keep the rotor from rotating while removing the nut.

12. Remove the nut (Figure 17) securing the magneto rotor.

â&#x20AC;˘

CHAPTER SEVEN

152

J3. Screw in a flywheel puller until it stops. Use the Suzuki flywheel puller (pan No. 09930.34931), K & N (pan No. 82-0210) or equivalent.

CAUTION

Don't try to remm'e the> rotor without a puller; any attempt ( 0 do so will II/fimale/y lead /0 some form of damage to the engine and/or rOlor.

Many aftermarket IJ'JH!S of pullers orf! ol'ai/able from mOSI motorcycle dealers or mail order houses. The cost ofone of these pullers is about S JO and II makes an excellent addition 10 any mechanic's tool box. If you can '/ buy or borrow one, hOI,t! a dealer remm'e the rmor.

14. Hold the puller with a wrench and gradually tighten the center bolt until the rotor disengages rrom the crankshaft.

NOTE

1/ the rotor is difficult (a fnnOI'(!, Slrike the puller cemer boll .....;lh a hammer a few times. This will usually break II loos('.

CAUTION Nel'er strike Ihe roLOr with a hammer as this could demagneli:e the rOlor. If demagnetized, the rotor /IIl/S I be replaced.

C4UTlON If normal rotor remOl'al aliemplS fail, do nOi force the puller as the threads may be stripped out of Ihe rOtor causing expensi"l'e damage. Take Ihe .-ehlde to a dealer and hal'e them remOl'e the rOior.

15. Remove the rotor and the puller. Remove the puller from the rotor.

16. Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshafl.

CAUTION Carefully inspect the inSide of the rOlor for small bolts, washers or olher melal ~trash~ that may hal'e been picked up

by Ihe magnels. These small metal bilS can cause S('l'ere damage 10 Ihe magneto stator plate components.

17. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

18. Make sure the Woodruff key is in place on the crankshaft and align the keyway in the rotor with the key when installing the rotor.

19. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the nut threads prior to installation.

20. Have an assistant apply the rear brake. This will keep the rotor from rotating while tightening the nut.

21. Install and tighten the rolor nut to 50-60 N.m (36-44 ft .-lb.)

22. [nstall the locating dowels and a new gasket, S talor Assembl y Removal/ Jnstalla tion I. Perform Steps I~ I O, /lfagneLO (Chain-drjl'en Models) ROlor RemOl'all lnslallalioll \0 Ihis chapter.

2. If necessary, remove the screws (Figure 18) securing the stator and CD! pickup eoil assembly to the lefl-hand crankcase cover.

3. Pull the electrical harness and rubber grommet from the alternator housing and remove the stator and COl pickup coil assembly.

4. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

5. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the screw threads prior to installation . Install the screws securing the stator and COl pickup coil assembly and tighten securely.

6. Make sure the rubber grommet is positioned correctly in the cover to prevent an oi l leak.

ELECfRlCAL SYSTEM

153

IGNITION SYSTEM ,SHAFT. DRIVEN MODELS,

ÂŽ

Ig nition switch

r - - - - - - B, ----I P ---I COl unit

WIRE COLOR 'f: yellow

BI: blue Br: brown G: Green P: pink

Alternator

7. Route the electrical harness thc same way it was before removal. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of corrosion and are tight.

8. Install the magneto rotor as described in this chapter.

9. Refill thc engine with Ihc correct type and quantity of engine oil as described in Chapler

Three.

Magneto Coil Testing (Chain-driven Models) It is nOi necessary to remove the stator plate to perform the following tests.

In order to gel aceurale resistance measurements thc stator assembly and coil must be warm (minimum temperature is 68' F-20' C). I f necesary, start Ihc engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature.

I. Place the ATV o n level ground and set thc parking brake.

2. Remove thc sea l and Ihe front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Disconnect the magneto electrical connector (Figure 14) containing 2 wires (I pink. 1 brown).

4. Connect an ohmmeter to the stator assembly half of the electrical connectors and check each coil as indicated in Table 2.

5. If any of the coi ls do not meCI the resistance specifications listed in Table 2, the magneto stator and COl pickup coil assembly must be replaced as a unit. The individual coils cannot be replaced.

BfW: black/white B/Y: black/yellow W/BI: whlte/btue

6. Con nect the electrical connectors. Make sure all connectors are free of corrosion and are tight.

7. Install all itcms removed.

CA PACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION

All ATV models are cquipped with a capacitor discharge ignition (COl) system. a solid-state system that uses no breaker points. Refer to Figure 19 for shaft-driven models or Figure 20 for chain-driven models for the ignit ion circui !.

As the rotor is turned by the crankshaft, the permanent magnets within the rotor cause an electronic pulse to develop in the primary coil of the stator assembly. This pulse is then routed to the COl unit where it is amplified. A pulse from the pickup coil in the stator assembly is used to trigger the output of the COl unit which in tum triggers the output of the ignition coil and fires the spark plug.

COl Precautions Cenain measures must be taken to protect the capacitor discharge system. Damage to the semiconducton; in the system will occur if the following precautions are nOi observed.

I. Never disconnect any of the electrical connections whi le the engine is running.

2. Keep all connections between the various units clean and tigh!. Be sure that the wiring connecto rs are pushed together firmly to help keep out moisture.

CHAPTER SEVEN

154

Enilln. atop Iwitch

,.. B/Y - - - < l......."

B/W

WIRE COLOR

Br: brown P: pink BIW: black lwhite BIY: blackly.now WIBI: whitelblue BllY: blue lyeliow G/W: Green/white

IGNITION SYSTEM (CHAIN-ORIVEN MODELSI

r- WIBI

p -

~1

CO l unit

I- B/ W

B,-

1--

Ignition coil

-

-

Magneto

3. Do nOI substitute another type of ignition coil.

4. T he COl unit is mounted to the frame with mounting labs on the unit. Always be sure that the COl unit is mounted using these tabs as they are designed to help isolate the unit from vibrations.

em T rou bleshoo ting Problems with the capaci tor disc harge system fall into one of the following categories. See T able J. a. Weak spark. b. No spark.

COl T esting I. Place the ATV on levd ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and the fro nl fender as descri bed in Chapter Eleven.

3A. On shaft-driven models, disconnect the CD! pickup coil electrical connector (Figure 5) containing 2 wires (I black, I green), 38. On chain-driven models, disconnect the COl pickup coil electrical connector (Figure 14) containing 2 wi res ( I bladcJyeliow. I green/ while).

4. Connect an ohmmeler to the COl pickup coil assembly half of the electrical con nectors and check the COl pickup coil as indicated in Table I or Table 2.

5. If the pickup coil does nOI meet the resistance specificatio ns listed in Table I or Table 2, the stator and COl pickup coil assembly must be replaced as a unit. The COl pickup coil can not be replaced.

6. Connect the electrical connectors. Make sure all con nectors are free o f corrosion and are tight.

7. Install a ll items removed .

Replacement 1. Remove the sea l and front fende r as described in C hapter Eleven.

2. On chain-d riven models, remove the fuel lank as described in Chapter Six. 3. Disconnect the electrical connectors to the COl unit.

4. Remove the screws securing the COl unit to the frame. Refer to Figu re 21 for sha n-driven models or Figure 22 for chain-dri ven models and remove the unit fro m the frame.

5. Install a new COl unit onto the frame and attach the electrical wires to it 6. Install all parts removed.

IGNITION CO IL Remova i/ insta.llalion I. Place the AT V on level ground and set the parking brake.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

@

ISS 2. Remove the seal and the front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. On chain-driven models. remove the fuel lank as described in Chapler Six. 4. Disconnect the high voltage lead (A, Figure 23) from the spark plug.

5. Disconnect the electrical wires (A. Figure 24) fro m the lOp of the ignition coil.

6. Remove the bolt and washer securing the ignition coil to the frame and remove the coil.

Refer to B, Figure 23 for shaft-driven models or B, Figurt' 24 for chain-driven models.

7. Install by reversing these removal steps. nOling the following.

8. Make sure all electrical connections are free of corrosion and are light.

T l.'Sling

The ignition coi l is a fonn of transformer which develops the high voltage required to jump the spark plug gap. The on ly mai ntenance required is that of keeping the electrical connections dean and tight and occasionally checking to see that the coi l is mounted securely.

If the condition of the coil is doubtful, there are several checks which can be made.

First, as a quick check of coi l condition, disconnect the high voltage lead from the spark plug. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head. Connect a new or known good spark plug 10 the high voltage lead and place the spark plug base on a good ground like the engine cylinder head.

Position the spark plug so you can see the electrode.

WARNING If it is n('Cessary LO hold the high I'Oltage fead. do so lI'ith an Insu/atl.'t/ pair of plters. The high \,oltage gelterated by the CDI c01l1d produce seriOus or fatal shocks.

ÂŽ

Tum the engine over with the recoil staner or kickstarter. If a fat blue spark OCCUT5. the coil is in good condition; if not, proceed as follows. Make sure thai you are usi ng a known good spark plug for Ihis test. If the spark plug used is defective. the test results will be incorrect.

Reinstall the spark plug in the cylinder head .

Refer to Figure 25 for this procedure.

Disconnect all ignition coil wi res (including the spark plug lead) before testing.

NOTE /11 order 10 get accurate resistance II/l'asuremen/s the coil must be warm (millimum temperature is 68' F-20' C). If necessar)'. SlUr, the ellgine alld let

7

CHAPTER SEVEN

156

it warm up to normal operating temperature. If the engine won " ron. warm the coil with a hair dryer.

I. Measure the primary coil resistance between the positive (+) and the negative H terminals on the lop of the ignition coil. The resistance value should be appro"imately 0-2 ohms.

2. Measure the seeondary coil resistance between the positive (+) terminal on the top of the ignition coil and spark plug lead (with the spark plug cap attached), The resistance value should be approximately 10-25K ohms.

3. If the coil resistance does nOI meet either of these specifications, the coil must be replaced. If the coil exhibits visible damage, it should be replaced.

4. Reconnect aU ignition coil wires to the ignition coil.

,I I

I

I I I I

STARTING SYSTEM (MODELS SO EQUIPPED)

I I

The starting system consists ofthe starter motor, starter gears, solenoid and the starter bulton.

The layout of the starting system is shown in Figure 26. When the starter button is pressed, it engages the starter solenoid switch that completes

®

FUle R

~:-

•

.,

I

~

/

'\ Starter motor

~ g

"l ./ .,l

"<>-.._-

Starter lolenol d

Secondary coil - - - reliltance ".1101.

Engine Slop Iwltch

a

Starter button

~ ....."

o.A.

----.1 LL~ I

L~ ________ J

~.I/. 1

~

att~ry

,,

Ignition Iwltch

OV'O- R -0

STARTING CIRCUIT

Primary coil fesistance "alue

Le1J .,

V,G

v,. .,____________ ~ Re"erse Iwltch

v,•

...J

~

Neutral Indicator Iwltch

W.RECOLOR BI: blu.

0: orange R: red B/ W: blacklwhlt.

BIIB: blue/ black ~/R :

btue{recI

VIS: yellow/ black Y/G: Vellow{green

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

157 STARTER RClllol'a l/ l nSla llation

I. Place the ATC on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and the front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Disconnect the battery negative lead (Figure 4).

4. Pull back the rubber boot and disconnect the electrical connector from the starter motor (Figure 27).

5. Remo\'c the bolts (Figure 28) securing the starter motor. Pull the Sianer motor toward the right-hand side and remove the starter motor.

6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

7. Tighten the bolts securely.

8. Make sure the electrical connector is on tight and that the rubber boot is properly installed. The starter motor is located in an area where it gets a direct spray of water from the front wheel when riding in wet areas.

Inspeftion

ÂŽ B

The overhaul of a starter motor is best left to an expert. A considerable amount of money can be saved by removing the starter motor and taking the motor to a dealer or electncal shop for repairs.

There are a couple of quick inspections that can be performed by the home mechanic.

I. Check the a-ring seal (A, Figure 29). a-ring seals tend to become hardened after prolonged use and heat and therefore lose their ability to seal properly.

2. Inspect the gear for chipped or missing teeth. If damaged, the armature must be replaced.

3. Make sure the case screws (8, Figure 29) are tight. If necessary, tighten the screws securely.

STARTER SOLENOID

Remorai/ installation

the circuit, aJlowing eleclricity to flow from the banery to the slarter mOlor.

CAUTION

Do not operate the starter for more !han 5 seconds 01 a time. Let it rest approximately 10 seconds. then use it again.

The staner gears are covered in Chapter Four.

Table 4, at the end of the chapter, lists possible starter problems. probable causes and most common remedies.

l. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove Ihe bolt (Figure 2) securing the tool holder and remove the tool holder and the 1001 Itit.

4. Disconnect the battery negative and positive leads.

5. Slide off the rubber protective boot on the solenoid.

6. Remove the nut and washer securing each electrical wire to the top terminals of the solenoid.

7. Remove the bolt securing the solenoid to the frame and remove the solenoid from the frame.

CHAPTER SEVEN

158 8. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

9. Make sure the electrical connectors are on tight and that the rubber bool is properly installed to keep OUI moisture.

Testi ng 1. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the parking brake.

2. Remove the seal and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

J. Remove the boll (Figure 2) securing Ihe tool holder and remove the tool holder and the 1001 kil.

4. Slide offlh e rubber protecti ve boot from the lOp of the solenoid.

S. Temporarily disconnect thc battery negative lead. This is to prevent a short wh ile disconnecting one of thc electrical wires from the connector on the solenoid, The connectors are very close to each other.

6. Remove the nut and washer securing Ihe electrical wire going to the starter motor. Move Ihe wire out of the way.

7. Reinstall the ballery negative lead to the ballery.

8. Tum the ignition switch ON. 9. Connect an ohmmeter between the positive and negalive connectors on top of the solenoid.

NOTE

If the solenoid fails

the leSI In Step JO, lestthe engine stop and starl switch and the neutral relay as described in this chapter. prior to replacing what may appear to be a fa lllt)' solenOid In this procedllre.

10. Press the START button; there should be continuity (low resistance). If there is no continuity, the solenoid is faulty and must be replaced. See prior NOTE before replacing solenoid.

II. Remove the nut and washer securing the other electrical wire going 10 chassis ground. Move the wire out of the way.

12. Connect an ohmmeter between the 2 electrical connectors on top of the solenoid. The specified resistance is)- 7 ohms. If the solenoid fails this test, replace Ihe solenoid.

13. Install both electrical wires to the solenoid and tighten the nutS securely. Make sure the electrical connectors are on tight and that the rubber boot is properly installed to keep OUI moisture.

14. Install all items removed.

LIGHTING SYSTEM The lighting system consists of a headlight and taillight. Shaft-dri ven models are equipped with indicator lights housed in the odometer housing (Figure 30). Table 5 lists replacement bulbs for these components.

Always use the correct wattage bulb as indicated in this section. The use ofa larger wattage bulb will give a dim light and a smaller wattage bulb will burn out prematurely.

Headlight Replacement Refer to Figure 31 for chain-driven models or Figure 32 for shaft-dri ven models fo r this procedure.

I. On models equipped with the optional headlight guard. remove the bolts and lockwashers securing the guard and remove the guard.

2. Remove the screw and washer securing the headlight trim ring (A, Figure 33).

3. Pull out on the bottom of the trim ring and remove the trim ring.

4. Remove the screw and washer (B, Figure 33) securing the headlight lens unit.

S. Carefull y pull the headlight lens unit out of the housing. Pull OUI on the bottom of the trim ring and remove the trim ring.

6. Disconnect the electrical connector/ socket (Figure 34) from the headlight lens unit.

7. Remove the bulb from the electrical connector/ socket (Figure 35) and replace with a new bulb.

S. Install by reversing these removal steps.

Headlight l'lousing Remonlllinsia llaton I. Remove the headlight (A. Figure 36) as described in Ihis chapter.

2. Disconncct all eleclrical wires within the headlight housing (B, Figure 36).

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

159

_ . _ . _ ._. _ . - ._ .- , _0Optional

J7

13

HEADLIGHT (CHAIN.DRIVEN MODELS) 1. Headlight bracket 2. Bolt

3. Bolt 4. Rubber cushion

5. Spacer 6. Washer

7. Lockwuher 8.

9.

10.

11 .

12.

13.

14.

Bolt Headlight housing Bulb sockel Headlight bulb Headlight lens unit Tri m rlng H••dllght lena guard

15. Spacer 16. lockwaaher 17. Bolt

i

160

CHAPTER SEVEN

® "- - - "- "r.=< " = " = " ')\'\ (2 - -- ; " :=

'0

tI

'j4> )

5612

\

!

\

13

I

'-,

I

!

\

!

I (

(

I

Subtrlnlmi..ion model.

HEADLIGHT (SHAFT·DRIVEN MODELS)

1. Headlight brlcket

2. Bolt 3. Bolt 4. Rubber cushion

5. Spacer 6. Wllher 1. Lockw••her I . Headlight housing 9. Bulb locket

10. Headlight bulb 11. Headlight lenl unit 12. Trim ring 13. He.dl1ght brlcket

~

_ _# -" -" ""-12

3

-~~~

4 5 61 2

I

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

161 3. Remove the attachment bolt. lockwasher and washer (C. Figure 36) securing the headlight housi ng to the mounting bracket (D, Figure 36) and remove the headlight housing,. Don'\ lose the spacer within each rubber cushion in the mounling bracket.

4. To remove the mounting bracket (0, Figure 36), remove the bolts securing the bracket to the plate al the top of the steering column.

5. Install by reversing these removal steps. Make sure all electrical connections are free of corrosion and arc tight.

Taillight Replacement Refer to Figure 37 for Ihis procedure.

1. Remove the screws and washers securing the lens and remove the lens.

2. Wash out the inside and outside of the lens with a mild detergent and wipe dry.

3. inspet"1 the lens gasket and replace it if damaged or deteriorated.

ÂŽ

TAILLIGHT (ALL MODELSI 1. Screw 2. Wa.her 3. Lens 4. aasket 5. Taillight bulb 6. Taillight housing 7. Washer 8. Rubber cushion 9. Spacer 10. Rubber cushion 11 . Washer 12. Nut

CHAPTER SEVEN

162

a. Positive (+) test lead to the high beam electrical con nector (yellow wire) or low beam electrical connector (white wire). b. Negat ive H test lead to ground.

4. Replace the bulb and install the lens; do nOI ovenigh lcn the SCrtW5 as the lens may crack.

Taillight Housing Remoni/ insia lialion

5. Turn the light switch ON. 6. Start the engine and increase engine speed.

7. The voltmeter should read as fo llows: a. 2,500 rpm (min.): above iO.5 volts. h. 8,000 rpm (min.): below 16.0 volts.

8. If the voltage checks out within range, test the lighting coil as described under Magnelo Coil Tes/ing, chain-dril'en Models in this chapter.

9. If the lighting coil checks out okay, the regulator is faulty and must be replaced.

I. Remo ve the nut and washer securing the housing to the frame.

2. The rubber cushions may stay on the frame or stick 10 the housing and to the washer.

3. Remove the housing from the frame. Don't lose

the spacer located within each rubber cushion.

4. Install by reversing these removal steps. Make sure all electrical connections are free of corrosion and are tight.

Lighting S )'slem Perrormance Test (Chal n-driven Models)

Refer 10 Figure 38 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the

SWITCHES

parking brake.

Engine Kill Switch T esting

2. Connect a portable tachometer following the manufacturer's instructions.

3. Remove the headlight as described in this chapter.

4. Within the headlight housing (8, Figure 36). connect an AC voltmeter as follows:

1. Remove the headlight lens assembly as described in this chapter.

2. Within the headlight housing (8, Figure 36), d isconnect the electrical connectors from the engine kill switch as fo llows:

LIGHTING SYSTEM (CHAIN¡DRIVEN MODELS)

Ughtingawltch

~ G, ---1'~------"'TG, - , G,

. - - - - 0 --<J

~ Dimmer switc h

Magneto

I"

~

G, High beam

y

W

Low beam

WIRE COLOR

-

Gr: gray 0: orange W: white Y: yellow B/W: black/ white

8' W

8 ,W

8 ,W

1-

1--

1-

-

-

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

163

a. Shaft·driven models- black/while, black! yello ...... orange. orange while and yellow/green wires.

b. Chain-driven moods-black/white black/yellow wires.

and

NOTE Step J pertams 10 both shaft·dril'en and chain·dril"('n models. All Olh('r /esls pertain o nly to Ihe shaft-dril'en model.

3. On shaft-driven and chain-driven models, use an ohmmeter sct at R X I and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the black/while and hlack/yellow wires. Tum the kill switch button \0 the O FF posi lion. If the s.... itch IS good, there will be conti nuity (very [ow resistance).

4. On shaft-driven models, use an ohmmeter set at R X I and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the orange and orange while wires. Turn the kill switch button to the RUN position. (hhe switch is good. there will be continuity (very low resistance).

5. On shan-driven models. use an ohmmeter set at R X I and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the yellow/green and orange white wires. Tum the starter switch bulton to the START position. Irthe switch is good. there will be con tinuity (very low resistance).

6. If the switch fails 10 pass any of these tests. the switch is faulty and must be replaced.

7. Install the headligh t lens assembly as described in this chapter.

Ignition and Lighting S witch Testing (Shaft-drh'en Models)

1. Remo ve the headlight lens assembly as described in this chapter.

2. Within the headlight housing (8. Figure 36), disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition and lighting swi tch (wi re colors: black/white. black/yello" . red. orange and green).

3. Use an ohmmeter sel at R X I and conneclthe 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the black/"hlte and black/yellow wires. Tum the ignition switch to the OFF position. If the switch is good, there will be continuity (very low resistance).

4. Use an ohmmeter set at R X 1 and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the red and o range wires.

Tum the ignition swi tch button to the ON position. If the swi tch is good there will be continuity (very low resistance).

5. Use an ohmmeter set at R X 1 and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter 10 the following wires: a. Red and orange. b. Red and green.

e. Orange and green.

Tum the lighting switch bunon to the LIG HT poSItion. If the switch is good. there will be continuity (vcry low resistance) between each of the 3 wires.

6. If the switch fail s 10 pass any of these tests. the switch is fault}' and must be replaced.

7. Install the head light lens assembly as described in this chapter.

Lighting Switch Testing (Chain-drh'en Models) I. Remo\'e the headlight lens assembly as described in this chapter.

2. Wi thin the headlight housing (U. Figure 36) disconnect the green and the yellow/ red electrical connectors from the lighting switch.

3. Usc an ohmmeter set at R X I and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the green and yellow/red wires. Tum the lighting switch to the ON position.

I f the switch is good, there will be continui ty (very low resistance).

4. In the OFF position there should be no continui ty (infinite resistance).

5. If the switch fails to pass any of these tests. the switch is faulty and must be replaced.

6. Install the headlight lens assembly as described in th is chapter.

Headlight Dimmer S\\ilch Testing (A ll Models) I. Remove the headlight lens assembly as described in this chapter.

2. Within the headlight housing (B. •' igurc 36) disconnect the green. yellow and white electrical conncclOrs from the dimmer switch.

3. Use an ohmmeter set at R X I and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the green and yellow wires. Tum the dimmer switch to the HI position.

If the switch is good, there will be con tinuity (very low resistance).

4. Use an ohmmeter sel at R X I and connect the 2 leads of the ohmmeter to the green and white wires. Turn the dinlmer switch to the LO position .

If the swi tch is good. there will be con tinuity (very low resistance), 5. If the switch fai ls to pass any o f these tests, the switch IS fau lty and must be replaced.

6. Install the headlight lens assembly 3S described in thI S chapter.

164

CHAPTER SEVEN

Neutral S,,-ilch Testing (Shaft-driven Models) 1. Disconnect the electrical connector 10 the neutral switch on the left-hand side of the engine just ahead o f the reve rse shift lever.

1. Use an ohmmeter set at R X I and connect the 2

leads of the ohmmeter to the black wire and to ground. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. If the switch is good there will be continu ity (very low resistance).

J. If the switch fails to pass this test, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.

9

Rc\'crse S~-ilch Testing (Shaft-driven Models) 1. Remove the seat and front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

2. Disconnect Ihe black/blue, blue/red and blue electrical connectors (Figure 39).

3. Use an ohmmeter SC I at R X I and connect the 2

4-,j,.J,

leads of the oh mmeter to the blacklblue and the blue wires. Shirt the transmission into NEUTRAL. Ir the switch is good. there will be continuity.

4. Use an ohmmeter set at RX I and connect the 2 leads or the ohmmeter to the blue/ red and the blue wires. Shin the transmission into REVERSE. If the switch is good there will be continuity (very low resistance).

5. Ir the switch rails to pass any or these tests, the switch is raulty and must be replaced as described in Chapter Four.

6. Install the rront fender and seat as described in Chapter Eleven.

OOOMETER HOUSING 1. Housing 2. Gasket

3. Pilot tight cale 4.

5.

8.

7.

Screw Odometer case Socket aslembly Screw

8. Walher 9. Trip relet knob 10. Odometer lens 11 . Odometer 12. Washer

13. Lockwalher 14. Rubber c Ulhlon 15. Washe,

18. Lockwal her 17. Bulb

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

165 OOOMETER HOUSING (SH AFT-DRIVEN MODELS)

@

Remo n,1/ 1nSla llation

Refer to Figure 40 for Ihis procedure.

1. Sct thc A TV on level ground and set the parking bra ke.

2. Remove Ihe seat.

JA. On LT230GE models, remove thc sel screw on the choke and reverse knobs and remove both knobs (Figure 41 ), 3D. On LT-F230 models, remove the set screw on the subtransmission and reverse knobs and remove bolh knobs (Figure 42).

4. Remove thc front fende r as described in Chapler Eleven.

5. Disconnect Ihc odometer drive cable (Figure 43) from the odometer housi ng.

6. Li ft the odometer housing up a nd disconnect thc electrical connectors to the ignition switch and illum ination lights.

7. Inslall by reversing these removal steps.

FUSE

There on thc between positive fuse .

is onc 15·am p fuse in thc electrical system shaH-driven models and it is located the ignition switch and the ballery lead. Chain-driven models do not have a NOTE

Aill"aJ's carry a spare juse.

Whenever the fuse blows. find out the reason for the rai lure berore replacing the ruse. Usually, the tro uble is a short ci rcuit in the wiring. This may be caused by wOflHhrough insulation or a d isconnected wire shorted to ground.

Tabl.1 ALTERNATOR STATOR AND PICKUP COIL TEST (SHAFT·DRIVE)

It.m

Wlr. colo,.

R.slstanc. valu.·

Power source Pick-up coli

brown snd pink blue and green

150-250 ohms 10-180 ohms

• All resistance values are approximates.

CHAPTER SEVEN

166

Table 2 ALTERNATOR STATOR AND PICKUP COIL TEIT (CHAIN·DRIVEI

lIem

Wlr. colo,..

Resls.anc. valu.*

Power 10UrcS Pick-up con

brown Ind pink blue/ yellow and green /white orlnge and bllck

150-350 ohml 100·200 ohml

lighting coli

0-2 ohml

• All reilitance values are approxlmatel.

Tabl. 3 C.D.I. TROUBLESHOOTING

Symptoms Weak spark

Poor connectionl (clean and retighten) High voltage leak (repllce defective wire) Defective coil (repllce Ignlllon coli)

No I pa l1l

WIring broken (repllce wire) Defective ignition ( repllce coil) Defective puller coli In mlgneto (r.pllce coil) Table 4 STARTER TROUBLESHOOTING

Symptom

Probable C.U5e

Remedy

Starter does not work

Low battery Worn brushes Oelectlve relay Oefecl lve SWitch Defective wiring or connectIOn internal Short CirCUit

Recharge battery Replace brushes Repair or replace Repair or replace Repair wire or c!eim connectIOn Repair or replace defective component

Starter actIOn IS weak

low battery PItied relay contacts Worn brushes Defecllve conn ectIOn Short Circuit In commutator

Recharge battery Clean or replace Replace brushes Clean and lighten Repla ce armature

Starter run s contin uously

Stuck relay

Replace relay

Starterturns; does not turnenllne

Defective starter clutch

Replace starter clutch

Table S REPLACEMENT BULBS

Voltage/watta.e Headlight

Taillight

12V 4S/ 4SW 12V SW

CHAPTER EIGHT

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

This chapter describes repair and mainlcnance of the front wheels, suspension and steering components.

Refer to Table I for torque specifications for the fronl suspension components. Table 1 and Ta ble 2 are located al the end of this chapter.

FRON T WH EEL.

J. Place wood btock(s) under the frame \ 0 su pport the ATV securely with the front wheels off the ground.

4A. On

drum

brake

models.

perform

the

following:

a. Rcmove the rubber hub cover. b. To remove the wheel only, remove the lug nuts and washers (Figure I) securing the wheel to the hub/brake drum. Remove the rront wheel.

Remo\'a l

I. Place the ATV on level ground and SCI the parking brake. Block the rear wheels so the vehicle will nOl roll in either direction.

2. Jack up the front of the vehicle with a small hydraulic or scissor jack. Place the jack under the frame with a piece of wood bet .....een the jack and the frame.

WAR NI NG

Do 1101 inhale brake dllsl. /I ma.I'

cOn/ail! asbi>stos. which can calise Iling /nJllr)' alld cancer.

c. To remove the wheel and the hub/brake drum, remove the rubber hub cover. Remove the colter pin and hub nut (Figu re 2) securi ng

CHAPTER EIGHT

168 the wheel and Ihe hub/ brake drum \0 the steering knuckle. Remove the front wheel and discard the cotter pin.

4B. On disc brake models, remove the lug nuts and washers (Figure 3) securing the wheel 10 the hub. Remove the front wheel.

Installation IA. On drum following:

brake

models,

perform

the

CAUTION A/,,'oys inSlaJ/ new cotter pins. Nn't!r reuse an old one as it may break and fall out, a. If Ihe wheel and the hubfbrake drum were removed, install the wheel assembly and install the hub nul. Tighten to Ihc torque specification listed in Table L Install a new cOller pin and bend the ends over completely. b. If only Ihe wheel was removed, install Ihe washers and the lug nuts, Tighten Ihe lug nuts to the torque specification listed in Ta ble I. c. Install the rubber hub cover.

1B. On disc brake models, perfom the following: a. Install the front wheel and install the hub nut. b. Tighten the nut to the torque specification listed in Table 1. c. Install a new cOlier pin and bend the ends over completely.

2. After the wheel is installed completely, rotate it; apply the brake several timcs \0 make sure that the wheel rotates freely and thai the brake is operating correctly.

3. lack the front of the vehicle up a little and remove the wood block(s).

4. Let the jack down and remove the jack and wood block.

FRONT H UB

Inspection Inspect each wheel bearing prior to removing it from the wheel hub.

2. Turn each bearing by hand. Make sure each bearing turns smoothly.

CAUTION Do not remove the wheel bearings fo r inspection purposes as they will bt> damaged during the remO\'al process.

Remore the wheel bearings only if they are to be replaced.

NOTE Some axial play is normal, but radial play sholild be negligible. The bearing sholild turn smoothly.

1. Perform Steps 1¡3 of Front Hub Disassembly in Ihis chapter.

3. On non-sealed bearings, check the balls for evidence of wear, pitting or excessive heat (bluish tint). Replace beanng,s if necessary. always replace 35 a complete SCt. When replacing, be sure 10 take

j

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

•

1

169 your old bearings along to ensure a perfect matchup.

NOTE

Fully sealed bearings are ol'w/able from mOllY good bearing specwlty shops. Full), sealed bearings pro\'ide belfer protection from din and moiSlIIfl'

that may gel in/a the hub.

5

FRONT HUB IDRUM BRAI"'I MODELS)

1. Wheel bearing

2. Spacer 3. Brlke drum seal 4. Hub/brake drum 5. Threaded atud

6. Brake adjualer plug 7. DUII ••• I

4. Check the hole (Figure 4) in the end of the steering knuckle where the colter pins fit in. Make sure there are no fractures or cracks leading out toward the end of the steering knuckle. If any are found, replace the steering knuckle immediately.

5. Inspect the grease seals and O-ring seals.

Replace if they are deteriorating or staning to harden.

6. On disc brake models, inspect Ihe threaded studs on the wheel hub (Figure 5). Replace if necessary.

Disassembly

Refer to Figure 6 for drum brake models or Figure 7 for disc brake models.

I. Remove the front wheel as described in this chapter.

NOTE

2. Wheel beanng

On drum brake models. do 1101 reI1l01'(> Ih(> hub/brake drum assemb/)I from Ih,' tire whee! assembly as the lire/wheel

3. Inner collar

assembly is an ideal holding fixlure.

1. OUlt covar

FRONT HUB (DISC BRAKE HUB)

CD

4. Hub/dllc carrier

5. Spacer 8. Hub nut 7. Cotter pin 8. Threaded atud

2. On diSC brake models, perform the following: a. Remove the front brnke caliper assembly as described in Chapter Ten. b. Remove the COller pin and hub nut (Figure 8). Remove the front hub from the steering knuckle. Discard the cotler pin.

3A. On drum brnke models, perform the followin g: a. Remove the spacer (if so equipped) from the outside surface of thc hublbrake drum. b. Remove the dust seal (Figure 9) from the outside surface of the hubfbrake drum.

3B. On disc brake models, perfonn the following: a. Remove the spacer (A. Figure 10) and dust seal (8, Figure 10) from the outside surface of Ihc hub. b. Remove the bolts securing the brake disc (A, Figure II ) and remove Ihc brake disc. c. Remove the dust seal (B, Figure II) from the outside surface of the hub/ brake drum.

4. Before proceeding any further. inspect Ihe wheel bearings as described in this chapter.

5. To remove the inner and outer bearings and inner collar, insen a soft aluminum or brass drift

CHAPTER EIGHT

170 into one side of the hub. Push the inner collar over to one side and place the drift on the inner race of the outer bearing. Tap the bearing out of the hub with a hammer working around the perimeter of the inner race.

6. Remove the inner collar and tap out the inner bearing.

7. Thoroughly clean out the inside o f the hub with solvent and dry with compressed air or a shop cloth.

Assembly

c. InSlall the hub nut and tighten to the torque speci fi cation listed in Table I. NOTE Always install new cotter pins. Nel'er reuse an old one as it may break and fall out.

d. Install a new cotler pin and bend the ends over completely.

8. Install the front wheel as described in this chapter.

J. On non-sealed bearings, pack the bearings with n good quality bearing grease. Work the grease in between the balls thoroughly. Tum the bearing by hand a couple of times 10 make sure the grease IS distributed evenly inside the bearing.

2. Pack the wheel hub and inner collar with multipurpose grease.

CAUTION

Install lhi' wheel bearings with the sealed side facing OIlf. During installalion. tap the bearings squarely into place and tap on the outer race only. Use a socket (Figure 11) thai matches the outer race diameter. Do not tap on the inner raCl! or the bearing may be damaged. Be sure that the bearings are completely seated.

3. Install the inner bearing.

4. Install the inner collar and the outer bearing.

5. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to both dust seals.

6A. On drum brake models, perform the following: a. Install the dusl seal (Figure 9) inlo the outside surface of the hublbrake drum. b. Install the spacer (if so equipped) into the outside surface of the hub/ brake drum .

6B. On disc brake models, perform the following; a. Install the dust seal (8, Figure I I) into the outside surfa~ of the hub. b. Install Ihe brake disc (A, Figure II ). Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 2 114) to the brake disc bolls. Install and tighten the bollS to the torque specification listed in Table I. c. Install dust seal (8, Figure 10) and the spacer (A, Figure 10) into the outside surface of the hub.

7. On disc brake models, perform the following: a. Install the front hub ontO the steering knuckle. b. Install the front bra ke caliper assembly as described in Chapter Ten.

ÂŽ

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

171 STEERING SYSTEM

®

Hand leba r Removal

Refer to Figure 13 for shan-dri ven models or figure 14 for chain-driven models.

Drum Bra k e Mode ••

CAUTION COI'er Ihe seal and from fender ..... //h Q heQI'Y clolh or plastic larp to pro/eel it

fro m Ihe accidental spilling of brake fluid. Wash any spilled brake fluid off any painted or plated surface immediately as it will deslroy Ihe finish.

Use SoaPJI wmer alld rinse thoroughly.

--

.+-__

Socket

I. Remove the bolls (A, Figure 15) securing the front master cylinder to the handlebar and lay it over the front fender or fuel tank. Keep the reservoir in the upright posi tion to minimize loss

STEERING COLUMN (SHAFT.DRIVEN MODELS) Hub/brake drum

5 6

8

;.~~

I ~8 6

• 1. Cushion 2. Boit

3. Hlndieber holder

@)

4.

5.

8.

7.

I. 9.

10.

11 .

12.

13.

Handieb.r

St•• ring column DU I I • • • I Solt Ste.ring I h'" holder Dull ••, 1 clip OUlt 1.,1 OUlt ••,1 O-ring Nut

CHAPTER EIGHT

171 of brake nuid and to kttP air from entering the brake system. 11 is not necessary to remove the hydraulic brake line from the master cylinder.

2. Remove the screws (8, Figure IS) securing the thronle assembly to the handlebar and remove the assembly. Lay the assembly over the front fender or fuel tank. Be careful that the cable does not get crimped or damaged.

3. Remove the plastic bands holding both switch assemblies' electrical cables to the handlebar.

4A. On shart-driven models, perform the

STEERING CGLUMN (CHAIN·DRIVEN MODELS,

®

following: a. Remove the screws securing the left-hand swi tch assembly (A. Figure 16) to the

•

handlebar and remove the assembly.

b. Remove the screws securing the cl utch/ parking brake assembly (8 , Figure 16) to the handlebar and remove the assembly.

Lay the assembly over the fron! fende r or ruel tank. Be carerul that the cables do not get crimped or damaged.

41l On chain-driven models, perfonn the rollowing: a. Remove the screws securing the left-hand switch assembly (A, Figure 17) to the handlebar and remove the assembly. b. Remove the screw securing the parking brake assembly (D, Figure 17) to the handlebar and remove the assembly. Lay the assembly over the rront render or ruel tank. Be carerul that the cables do not get crimped or damaged.

5. Remove the bolts (Figure 18) securing the handlebar holders and remove the holders and the handlebar.

6. To maintain a good grip on the handlebar and to prevent it rrom slipping down, clean the knurled section or the handlebar with a wire brush. It should be kept rough so it will be held securely by the holders. The holders should also be kept clean and rree or any mctal that mny have been gouged loose by handlebar slippage.

o 8 ~I~ ~II

'"II!O.....

1.

2.

3.

4.

Bolt

Handlebar hold.r Handlebar St.erlng column 5. DUlt a.al 6. Ste.rlng ahaft holda'

12 7. Bolt

8. Duat a.al clip 9. Duat .. al

10. O-ring 11 . Duat aeal 12. Nut

Handlebar Installation 1. Position the handlebar on the lower handlebar holders so the punch mark on the handlebar is aligned with the top surrace or the lower handlebar holders.

2. Install the upper handlebar holders and holder bolts.

3. Tighten the bolts 50 the gap at the rront and rear between the handlebar holders and the clamps are equal as shown in Figure 19. Tighten the bolts to the torque specification listed in Table I. After installation is complete. recheck the alignment or

A

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

173 the punch mark on the handlebar. Readjust if necessary.

4. Install the clutch/parking brake assembly or the parking brake assembly and tighten the screws securely.

5. InSlall both swi tch assemblies 0010 the handlebar and tighten the screws securely.

6. Inslall the plastic bands holding the switch electrical cables to the handlebar.

7. Install the fronl master cylinder as follows: a . Place the master cylinder on the handlebar. b. Install the holder clamp with the UP arrow and install the screws. c. Tighten the upper screw first and then the lower. Tighten the screws securely.

8. Install the throllie assembly as follows: a. Place the throttle assembly on the handlebar. b. Install the holder clamp and screws. c. Tighten the screws securely.

Sleering S hafl Re mm'a l Refer 10 Figure 13 for shaft-driven models or f igure 14 for chain-driven models.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake. Block the rear wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Remove the seal and front fender as described in Chapler Eleven.

J. Remove both front wheels as described in this chapter.

4. Disconnect both tie rods from the steering shaft end as described in this chapter.

5. Remove the handlebar (A, Figure 20) as described in this chapter.

6. Remove the bolts securing the headlight housing (B, fig ure 20) to the steering shaft assembly. Move the headlight housing out of the way. It is not necessary to remove the headlight assembly.

ÂŽ

8

174

CHAPTER EIGHT

7. Remove the colter pin. nut, lockwasher and washer (Figure 21 ) securing the lower end of the steering shaft to the frame.

8. Remove the colier pins (A, Figure 21) on the sleering shaft holder bolts. Discard the cotter pins.

9. Remove the bolts (8 , Figure 22) securing the plale and the steering shaft inner and outer holders (C, Figure 22), Remove the plale and the inner and outer holden.

10. Remove the dust seals from the steering shaft.

Note that the spli t in each seal is located toward the front of the steering shaft.

II. Remove the steering shaft from the frame.

12. Remove the dust seal and a-ring from the bushing on the frame where the lower end of the steering shaft rides.

J 3. Remove the circli p and grease seal from the base of the steering column.

ÂŽ

S teering S haft Inspection I. Carefully inspect the entire steering shaft assembly, especially if the vehicle has been involved in a collision or spill. If the shaft is bent or twisted in any way it must be replaced. If a damaged shaft is installed in the vehicle, it will cause rapid and excessive wear to the bushings as well as place undue stress on other components in the frame and steering system.

2. Inspect the lower bushing in the frame. If the bushing is worn or shows signs of galling due to lack of lubrication, it must be relaced.

3. Inspect the dust seal on the end of the steering shaft. If the seal is damaged in any way it should be replaced. A damaged seal will allow gri t and moisture to enter the lower bushing.

4. Examine the steering shaft holde r dust seals and the in ner and outer shaft holders for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

Steering S haft Installalion I. Apply a coat o f waterproof grease to the bushing in the frame where the lower end of the steering shaft rides.

2. Apply a coat of waterproof grease to the grease seal and install the seal onto the base of the steering shaft . Install the circlip securing the grease seal.

3. Apply a coat ofwaterproofjp'ease to the bushing in the frame where the lower end of the steering shaft rides.

4. Install the steering shaft into the frame.

S. Apply a coat of waterproof jp'ea5e to the dust seal and install the dust seal over the end of the steering shaft.

6. Install the washer, lockwasher and locknut.

Tighten the locknut to the torque specification

"

@ 2

~5

3

TIE ROO 1. Outer tie rod end 2. Inner tie rod end 3, Outer tie rod locknute (Ieft¡hand thread) 4. ne rod 5. Inner tie rod locknuts

listed in Table I and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends over completely.

7. Apply a coat of waterproof grease to the stccring shaft holder dUSI seals.

8. Install the dust seal over the steering shaft and position the split toward the front of the vehicle.

9. Inslall the inner and outer h o lde~ and the plate.

10. Install the bolts and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table I. Install new cotter pins and bend the ends over completely.

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERI NG

175 Tie Rod Remonl Both lic rod assemblies are the same. Refer to Figure 23 for Ihis procedure. l. Place the AT V on level ground and set the parki ng brake. Block the rear wheels so the vehicle will nOI roll in ei ther d irection.

2. Remove the sea l and front fender as described in C hapler Eleven.

3. Remove both front wheels as described in Ihis chapler.

4. Remove the colter pin, nUl. lockwasher and washer (figure 24) securing the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin as a new pin must be installed.

CAUTION Iflhe fie rod is dijficIIlllO remOl'l' from Ihe sleerl/1g knuckle. do 1101 atlemlJl 10 prj' II 0111 as Ihe Ill' rod sl'al may bl' damagl'd.

5. Carefully dlsconnf:('t the tie rod from the steering knuckle. If the tie rod cnd is difficult to remove, install the nut just enough 10 co\cr the threads on tic rod end and tap the lie rod end out of the steering knuckle with a soft¡ faced mallcl.

NOTE Figure 25 is sholl'lI lI'ith the SIl't?rin8 knuckle ami lIishbones remOl'ed for clarity. Do nOi remol'e these llelllS for this procedure.

6, Remove the cotler pin. nut. lock washer and washer (Figure 25) securing the tie rod end to the steering shaft end. Discard the cotler pin as a new pin must be Installed.

7. Carefully dlsconnC(:t the tie, rod from the steering shaft end and remove the tic rod assembly.

8. Repeat Steps 4¡ 7 for the other tic rod.

Tie Rod Inspectionl Disassembl)'/ Assembly

I L Install the headlight housing on to the steering shaft assembly and lighten the bolts securely.

12. Install the handlebar as dcscnbed in this chapler.

13. Connect both tic rods 10 the sleering shaft end as described in Ihis chapler.

14. Install both front wheels as described in Ihis chapter.

15. Install the scal and front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

I. Inspect the rubber boot at each end of the tie rod end swivel join t (Figure 26). The swivel joints are permanently packed with grease. If the rubbe r bool is damaged, din and moisture can en ter the swivel joint and destroy il. If the boot is damaged in any way, disassemble the tic rod assembly and replace the rod end(s) as they can be re placed separately.

2. If the tie rod ends (swivel joints) are to be replaced, refer to t"igure 23 and perform the following: a. Carefully measure and write down the overa ll length of lhc lie rod assembly before removing the worn tie rod ends.

CHAPTER EIGHT

176

5. Adjust the toe-in of the front wheels as described in Chapter Three.

6. Tighten the tie rod end locknuls to the torque specification listed in Table I. 7. Install the seat and front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

b. Loosen the locknuts securing the tie rod ends.

The locknuts securing the outside lie rod ends have left-hand threads and are colored yellow. c: Unscrew the damaged tie rod end(s). d. Install the new tie rod end and turn it in or out un til the overall length of the lie rod assembly is the same as that measured in Step A. Leave the locknuts loose at Ihis time. They will be tightened after the wheel alignment is adjusted.

F ront W ishbone and Steering Knuckle ReOiovaVlnstaliation Refer to Figure 28 for shaft-dri ven models or Figure 29 for chain-driven models.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake. Block the rear wheels so the vehicle will nOI roll in either direction.

Tie Rod I"SllIilation

I. Position the tie rod so tt, _ short end (Figure 27) is attached to the steering shaft.

2. Attach the lie rod assembly to the sleering shaft and 10 the steering knuckle. Install the washer, lockwasher and nut. Tighten the nU llO the torque specification listed in Table I. 3. InSlall a new cotter pin at each location and bend the ends over completely.

4. Install both front wheels as described in Ihis chapter.

I

FRONT WISHBONE (SHAFT¡DRIVEN MODELS)

2~1

1. Shock IIbsOfber

2. Bolt 3. Bolt 4.

S. 8.

7.

Bushing Upper wishbone Lower wishbone Washer

5

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERlNG

FRONT WISHBONE ICHAIN. DRIVEN MODELS)

1.

Bo"

2. Spacer 3. DUlt seal 4. Stopper ring 5. Bushing 6. Upper wishbone

7.

8.

9.

10.

11 .

12.

Bo"

Shock absorber Nut Cotter pin Lower wishbone Wa sher

177

!

CHAPTER EIGHT

178

2. Remove the scat and front fender as described in Chapler Eleven.

1 Remove both front wheels as described in this chapter.

4. Remove the front brake assemblies as described in Chapler Ten. 5. Disconnect the hydraulic brake line (Figure 30) from the mounting bracket on the steering knuckle.

6. Remove the tie rod assemblies (Figure 24) from the steering knuckle as described in this chapter.

7A. On shan-driven models, perform the [ollowing: a. Remove the bolt (Figure 31) securing the lower portion of the shock absorber to the upper wishbone. Move the shock absorber up and out orlhe way. there is no need to remove it. b. Remove the bolts and nuts (Figure 32) securing the wishbone assembly to the frame and remove the assembly.

70. On chain-driven models, perform the

\ .

following:

a. Remove the bolts (Figure 33) securing the shock absorber to the frame and the lower wishbone. Remove the shock absorber. b. Remove the bolts and nuts (Figure 34) securing the wishbone assembly to the frame and remove the assembly.

8. Install by reversi ng Ihese removal steps, noting the following.

9. Apply a coal of waterproof grease 10 all pivot areas prior 10 installing any components.

10. Tighten all bollS and nuts to the torque specification listed in Table I .

Front Wishbone and Sleering Knuck.le Inspection Refer to Figure 3S for shaft..driven models or Figure 36 fo r chai n-driven models.

ÂŽ 32

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

179

FRONT HUB ANO STEERING KNUCKLE ISHAFT·DRIVEN MODELS) 1. TIe rod end 2. locknut 3. Tie rod

10. Nut

11 . Bolt 12. St.ering knuckle 13. Spacer

4. Nut

14. Wa.he, 15. Nut 16. Cone, pin

5. Steering knuckle ann 6.

7.

8.

9.

Bott Boll Knuckle arm stopper Upper wishbone mount

er

1

17. Rubber hub cover

18. Lower wishbone mount

II

FRONT HUB AND STEERING KNUCKLE ICHAIN·DRIVEN MODELS)

2

lo "~ =,

'\.5

-

19 20 21 22 23

~\

~-l~

~

,..

2.

1. Tie rod end

2. locknut 3. Tie rod 4. Locknut (left-hand threads) 5. Nut 6. Upper wishbone mount 7. Steering knuckle 8. Nut 9. 8011 10. BcHt

11.

12.

13.

14.

Knuckle arm etopper lower wishbone mount Bolt Diae cover

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21 .

22.

23.

24.

Brake disc OUlt leal Wheel bearing Inner collar

Hub/disc carrier Wheet bearing OUlt seal Spacer Nut Bolt

CHAPTER EIGHT

180 IA. On shaft-driven models, inspect the rubber bushings (Figure 37) where thc wishbones attach 10 Ihe fram e. Replace as a SCI if any are worn or damaged.

®

I B. On chain-driven models, perform the following: a. Remove the spacer and dust seal from each side of the pivot portion of the wishbone. h. Tum the pivot bushing with your finger.

Make sure it rotates freely with no binding.

Replace if necessary. c. To remove the pi vot bushing. remove the stopper ring from one side and slide out thc pivot bushing. d. Install the new pi vot bushing and stopper ring. e. Apply a coat ofwalcrproof grease to the pivot bushing and to both dust seals. f. InSlall the dust seals and the spacers.

2. Inspect the spindle portion of thc steering knuckle (A, Figure 38) for wear or damage. A hard spill o r collision may cause the spindle portion to bend or fracture. If the spindle is damaged in any way, replace the steering knuckle as described in this chapter.

3. Check the hole (B, Fililure 38) at the end of the steering knuckle where the colter pin fits. Make sure there are no fractures or cracks leading out toward the end of the steering knuckle. If any are prescnt, replace the steering knuckle.

4. Check the tightness of all of the bolts and nuts (Figure 39) securing the steering knuckle to the wishbones. Refer to Table I for correct torque specifications.

®

®

NOTE Figure 40 shows an assembly from a shaft-driren model. Some parts on chain-dril'en models differ slig/llly, but the service procedure is the same on all models.

5. To separate the steering knuckle from the wishbones, perform the following: a. Remove the clamping bolt (A. Figure 40) and lockwasher securing the steering knuckle to the lower wishbone. Remove the lower wishbone (B, Figure 40). b. Remove the cotter pin and nut (C, Figure 40) securing the steering knuckle to the upper wishbone. c. Install the Suzuki special tool, Steering Knuckle Arm Remover (part No. 09942-72410) between the upper wishbone and the steering knuckle and separate the steeri ng knuckle (D, Figure 40) from the upper wishbone (E, Figure 40).

B

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERJNG

®

d. If necessary, remove the bolts securing the steering knuckle arm (f. Figure 40) from the steering knuckle.

6. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace if

necessary.

7. T o assemble the steering knuckle to the wishbones. perform the following: a. If removed, install the steering knuckle arm onto the steering knuckle. Apply blue Loctite

(Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the boll threads prior 10 installation. Install the bolts and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 1. b. Install the steering knuckle onto the upper wishbone and inslall the washer and nu!.

T igh ten the nut to the torque specification listed in Table I. Install a new cotler pin and bend the ends over completely. c. Install the lower wishbone onto the steering knuckle. Apply blue Loctile (Lock N' Seal No. 2 114) \0 the bolt threads prior to installation.

Install the clamping bolt and lIghten to the torque specification listed in Table I. S hock Absorber Remova illnstallation Replacement parts for the shock absorber are not avai lable from Suzuki. If the unit is leaking fluid or any pan is damaged, the entire uni t must be replaced.

181 Refer to Figure 28 for shaft·driven models or Figure 29 for chain-driven models for this procedure. \. Remove the fro nt wheel(s) as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the front fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3A. O n shaft-driven models, remove the upper and lower bolts (Figure 41 ) securing the shock absorber to the frame and upper wishbone and remove the shock absorber.

38. On chain-driven models, remove the upper and lower bolts (Figure 33) securing the shock absorber to the frame and lower wishbone and remove the shock absorber.

4. Repeat for the other side if necessary.

S. Installation is the reverse of these steps. Keep the following points in mind: a. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the pivot points on the frame and wishbone where the shock absorber is attached and the pivot points on the shock absorber (Figure 42). b. Tighten the bolts 10 the torque specification listed in Table I. T IRES All models are equipped with tubeless, low pressure tires designed specifically for off· road use only. Rapid tire wear will occur if the vehicle is ridden on paved surfaces. Due to their low pressure requirements., they should be innated only with a hand-operaled air pump instead of using an air compressor or the air available al service stations.

CAUTION Do not olwinjlate the stock tires as they will be permanently distorted and damaged. If Ol'eririfiated they will bulge OUI similar to atl intler tube Ihal is lIot wirhin the constraints of a lire and will 1101 retJIrn 10 their original contour.

NOTE Additional inflation pressure In the slock rires will not improre the ride or rhe handling characteristics of the machine. For improl'ed handling, aftermarket tires will hare to be installed.

To guard against punctures from small objects, install a commercially available liquid lire sealer into all tires through the valve stem . It's a good idea to carry a cold patch tire repair kit and hand held pump in the tow vehicle.

CHAPTER EIGHT

182 Removing the tire from the special rims is different than removing one from a motorcycle or automobile wheel.

ÂŽ

T ire Changing

The rims used on these models are of the I'piece type and have a built-in ridge to keep the tire bead seated on the rim under severe riding conditions.

Unfonunately it also tends to keep the tire on the rim during lire removal as well.

A special type of 1001 is required for tire changing on these models. There are various models available from dealers and mail order houses (Figure 43). When purchasing the lire tool, get the type that exens all of the applied pressure to a very small section of the tire bead al a time. Many aftermarket bead breakers spread OUI the applied pressure over a larger section of the tire bead and therefore are unable to break the bead loose from Ihis type of rim.

The tool shown in this procedure is the one suggested by Suzuki.

I . Remove the valve stem cap and partially deflate the tire. Do not let all of the air out. Leave approximately 0.05-0.10 kgfcm l (0.7- 1.4 psi) of air pressure in the lire. This will help during the initial tire removal sequence.

2. Lubricate the tire bead and rim flanges with a liquid dish detergent, Armor All or any rubber lubricant.

CAUTION If you are using aftermarket aluminum 'l\'het>ls. special care must be taken when

ÂŽ

changing tires to aroid scratches and gouges 10 the OUfer rim sur/ace.

3. Position the wheel into the tire removal tool as shown in Figure 44.

4. Slowly pull down on the lever, making sure the tool is up against the rim, and break the tire bead away from the rim.

5. Using your hands, press down on the tire on either side of the tool and try to break the Test of the bead free from the rim.

6. If the rest of the tire bead cannot be broken loose, raise the tool, rotate the tire/rim assembly and repeat Step 4 and Step 5 until the entire bead is broken loose from the rim (Figure 45).

7. Remove the tire/ rim assembly from the tool assembly. g. Reinflate the tire to approximately 0.05-0.10 kg/em? (0.7-1.4 psi).

9. Turn the wheel over and repeat Steps 2-7 for the tire rim flange on the other side.

@

I

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

183 10. Remove the tire from the rim using lire irons and rim protectors (Figure 46).

11. Inspect the rim sealing surface of the rim. If the rim has been severely hit il will probabl y cause an air leak. Ei ther repair o r replace any damaged rim.

12. Inspect the tire for cuts. tears, abrasions or any other defects.

13. Apply clean water to the rim fl anges. lire rim beads and onto the outer rim. Make sure the rim flange is clean, Wipe with a lint-free cloth.

®

CAUTION Nrrrr usp engine oil or gasollnl' as a mountmg lubricant as they will dereriorale Ihe tire.

14. Apply lire mounting lubricant, Armor All or a liquid dish detergent to both lire beads.

15. Position the tire so the arrow on the sidewall IS pointing in the correct direction of rotation.

16. Position the rim with the outer side facing up.

17. Install the rim in lo the tire as shown in Figure 47.

18. Press the tire o nto the rim with }our hands as shown in Figure 48.

19. Repeat Step 18 for the other side of the tire.

CAUTIO,, · Do nOI mjlale /III.' lire pasl Ihe maximum injlallon pressure of 0.7 kglcmJ (10 psi).

NOTE If it is dIfficult 10 seat the beatls of the /Ire against the rim, Iry thIs pnx:etiure.

Place a old mOlOrq'cle lire (of the approprtaie si=e) ol'er the ATV lire so il is positioned in the middle of Ihe ATV /Ire (read (Figur~ 49). The mOlOrcyc/e lire will support the IIlIddle of the ATV tire and push the beads against the rim jlanges 10 help make an airtighl seal.

@

Motorcycle lire

20. Inflate the lire to the recommended tire pressure and correct circumference measuremen t (Figure SO). Refer to Table 2.

21. Inspect the Mrim lin e~ of the tire in relation 10 the rim. It must be equally spaced from the rim all around the circumference (Figure 51). If the distance varies, this indicates thaI the bead is improperly seated and th e tire must be reinstalled correclly on the rim. Repeat Steps 15-21.

22. Deflate the tire and let it sit for about one ho ur.

23. Inflate the tire to the recommended air pressure. Refer to Table 2.

24. Check for air leaks and install the valve cap.

•

CHAPTER EIGHT

184

Table 1 FRONT SUSPENSION TORQUE SPECIFICATION. Item and model Front wheel hub nut Hndlebar upper holder bolts Steering sha" Holder bolts Lower nut ShaH-dri.,en Chaln-dri.,en Steering knuckl a Arm bolt Knuckle·te-wl.hbone nut KnuckMl-te-lower wishbone clamping bolt Wishbone-te-frame bolts and nuts

ft.·lb.

"""

50-aO 18-28

38-58 13-20

18-28

13-20

22-35 38· 60

18·25 27· 43

35-35 40-60 44·68

28·33 29·43 32·48

50· 70

36-51

22-35

16-28

23· 35 40-80 40·80

28· 33 29-44 29-44

no ....

End locknut.

Locknut.

Shaft-dri.,en Chaln-dmen Shoctl absorber bolt.

Tabl. 2 TIRE INFLATION PRE.SURE (COLD)· Load capacity

0.,

Ihaftodrly.n model.

Up to 70 kg (155 lb.)

71)..120 kg (155-265 lb.)

.',

20 35

R•• r tlr•• 2.'

5.0

20 20

Front tlr••

18 25

.',

0.,

Front tlr••

Chalnodrtv.n mod.'.

Up to 105 kg (230 lb.)

105·170 kg (231)..375 lb.)

TI,.. preaau,..

2.'

2.'

R.a, tire.

2.'

3.'

18 25

2.'

3.8

• Tire Inn.tlon preUUrI for original equipment tltH. Aftenn.rkat tire. may ~ulre different Innat}on preUUrI.

CHAPTER NINE

REAR AXLE, SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

This chapler contains repair and replacement proced ures for the rear wheel, rear hub. rear suspension and final drive unit (models so equipped). Service 10 the rear suspension consists of:

a. Periodically checking bolt tigh tness. b. Replacing swing arm bushings (models so equipped). c. Checking the condition of the rear shock absorber (models so equipped) and replacing it as neeessary.

Tire removal and repair are covered in Chapter Eight.

Refer to Table I . located at the end of Ihis chapler, for rear suspension torque specifications.

REAR WHEEL Remm'allinstallation

I. Sct the A TV on level ground and set the parking brake. Also block the front wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direction.

2. Place wood blocks under the engine to support the ATV securel y with the rear wheel off the ground.

3. On models so equipped. remove the rubber hub cover (Figure I).

4. Remove the cotler pin, hub nUl and washer(s) (Figure 2) securing the tire and wheel hub 10 the rear axle and remove the tire, wheel and hub assembly.

â&#x20AC;˘

\86

CHAPTER NINE

5. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

6. Be sure 10 inslall the washer(s) (Figure 3) and rubber hub cover holde r (models so equipped). See Figure 4.

7. Tighten the hub nut to the torque specification IiSied in Ta ble I. 8. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely. Never reuse a coUer pin as it may break and fall out.

9. If the wheel nUls were removed or loosened, tighten the wheel nuts to the torque specifications listed in Table I. REAR AXLE (SHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS)

Removal/ Installation Refer to Figure S for Ihis procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the

parking brake.

2. Remove the seat.

3. Remove the rear fe nders as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Remove both rea r wheels as described in this chapler.

S. Place a .....ood block under the swing arm 10 support it in the raised position.

6. Remove the bolts securing the rear skid plate (Figure 6) and remove the skid plate.

REAR AXLE f?'I 5 MODELS, \::.J

SHAF·r·DRI~'EN

,.,. Rubber hub co....r

10. Scr.w

3. Hub nut

12. Drain ho • •

con., pin

co....r hold.r ••Hub Washer ••R.sr hub •• 7. Bolt

drum OU1.r co.... r ••Brak.

W..h.r ••

11 . Gasket

13. Brak. drum

".

15. ".

17. ".

erake shoe r.turn spring Brak. shoe Gr.a •• • • al Bearing Spac.r

".

B.aring spac. r

20. Gr.ase fitting 21 . Allie bearing housing 22. All. Inn.r nut 23. Allie locknut Rubber cushion 25. Rubber cu shion 26. Rear al l.

27. Rubber cushion 28. R.ar hub

".

REAR AXLE. SUSPENS ION AND FINAL DRIVE

187

7. Use an open·end wrench or large adjustment wrench and loosen the axle locknut (Figure 7). It may be necessary to tap on the end of the wrench with a soft·faced mallet to break the locknut loose .

Remove the axle locknut.

CAUTION The lock nul and a.r:le inner nut how? had Loctite applied during assembly alld bOlh are lightened 10 160·200 N-m (1 15·144 fi.·lb). II is I'ery hard to remore the nlllS el'ell with the correct SI=1' tool and a 10/ afforce. Do not apply heat to the area In order /0 t'J' to loosen the locknut or a.·dl' inner nut as this will ruin the hl'Q/·treati'd hardness of the a.-.:II'.

NOTE A special flame cut ",rl'lIch (Figure 8) IS ami/abll' from a motorC}"c/e dealer.

Rock.v or other mail order houses.

8. If you are unable to loosen the locknut it will have 10 be chiseled of[ Do not chisel all Ihe way through into the threads on the axle.

9. Remove the axle inner nUl. 10. Remove the bolts (Figure 9) securing the brake drum outer cover and remove the outer cover and gasket.

II. Release the parking brake.

12. Using a soft·faced mallet. tap on the left· hand end of the axle un til the spl ines are free from the final drive unit. iVAR NING Do not inhale brake dust. II may contain asbestos. which can cause lung lIl)ury and canur.

13. Withdraw the axle and brake drum from the righl.hand side (Figure 10).

[4. Inspect the rear axle as described in this chapler.

CD

II ~

CHAPTER NINE

188 15. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting

the following.

16. Apply a light coal of grease to both sections o f splines (Figure 11 ) on the axle where they contact the final drive unit. Do not get any grease on the axle nul threads as Loctite will be applied 10 this

area later. Remove any grease from the threads with lacquer thinner or contact cleaner.

17. Apply II light Coal of grease to the lips of the brake drum dust seal (Figure 12) in the axle bearing housing and to the brake drum cover (Figure 13), 18. Install a new gasket (Figure 14) on the rcar brake cover.

19. Using a 50ft-faced mallet. drive the axle in from the right-hand side until il is completely sealed in the final drive unit.

20. Apply a light coat of liquid sealant to the periphery orlhe final drive gear case where the axle exits the case.

2\. Apply blue LOClilc (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the threads of the axle inner nul and to the locknut.

22. Install the axle inner nut and tighten to the torque specification lisled in Tllblt! 1.

23. Install the axle locknut, hold the inner nut and tighten axle locknut 10 the torque specification lisled in Table l.

®

REAR AXLE AND DRIVEN SPROCKET (CHAI N-DR IVEN MODELS) Remo"a l Refer to Figure 15 for this procedure. \. Place Ihc ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. 3. Remove the seal and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

®

REAR AXLE (CHAIN-DRIVEN MDDELS)

I i

4. R.ar hub 5 . .... 1. locknut .nd a.l. inner nut 6. Brake dllc mounting bolt 7. Brake disc B. Clrcllp 9, Brak. caliper bracket 10. R.ar •• Ie

: ~~ II

12

II , .... 1. b.aring housing

12. Center collar 13. Drive . prock.t mounting bolt

14. Drive .procket flang.

15. Drive sprocket lB. Rear hub

REAR AXLE, SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

189

4. To rdieve drive chain tension; perform the [ollowing:

a. Loosen the swing arm pinch bolts (A. Figure 16) securing the axle holder. b. Insert a drift or round bar into one of the holes (8, Figure 16) in the ade holder.

c. Push the drift toward the fronl of the vehicle, rotating the top of the axle holder toward the fronl. Rotate the axle holder until the maximum amount of drive chain slack is achieved.

5. Remove both rear wheels as described in this

chapter.

6. Place a wood block under the swing arm to support it in the up position.

7. Remove the cotler pin and hub nut securing each rear hub (Figure 17). Remove the washer and the hub on both sides.

8. Make surt the parking brake is applied.

9. If the driven spocket is going \0 be removed, loosen the bolts and nuts (Figure 18) securing the drive sprocket to the sprocket flange.

10. Use an open end wrench or large adjustable wrench to loosen the locknut (Figure 19) on each side of the axle. It may be necessary to tap on the end of the wrench with a sort faced mallet to break the locknut loose. Remove the locknut from each side.

CAUTION

The locknlll and inner nut hal'e had Loewe applied during assembly and are tightened 10 160¡200 N¡ m ( 115- 144 fl.-lb.). They are I'ery hard /0 remore el'en with the correct si=e tool and a lot offo rce. Do not apply heal to the area in order 10 fry 10 loosen {he locknut and mner nul as this will ruin {he heaHfl!aled hardness of the axle.

NOTE

A special flame cut wrench (F;gur~ 8) is available from a mOlOrC)'cle dealer, Rocky or a/her mail order houses.

II. If you are unable to loosen the locknut or inner nul they will have to be chiseled off. Do not chisel all the way through into the threads on the axle.

12. If the rear brake disc is going to be removed from the axle, loosen the bolts (Figure 20) securing the brake disc to the mounting flange on the axle.

13. Remove the rear axle inner nut from each sidc.

14. On the drive sprockct side, remove the washers.

15. On the brake disc side, remove the spacer.

16. Release the parking brake and remove the disc brake caliper assembly as described in Chapter

CHAPTER NINE

190 Ten. Tie Ihe caliper assembly up to the frame with a wire or Bungee cord (Figure 21), t7. Remove Ihc drive chain from Ihe driven sprocket.

18. Pull Ihc rear axle assembly out of the swing afm from Ihc right-hand side.

19. Inspect the rear axle as described under Rear Axle Inspeclion. All Models in this chapter.

Installation

J. Make sure thc axle bearing oil seals are in place on each side of the axle holder. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the lips of the seals.

2. Install the rear axle assembly into thc swing arm from the right-hand side.

J. inslalllhc drive chain onto the driven sprocket.

4. Install the disc broke caliper assembly as described in Chapter Ten. 5. Apply Ihc parking brake.

6. Thoroughly clean all oil from the threads on the rear 8,'(le for the axle inner nut and axle locknut.

7. Apply a light coat of liquid sealant to the periphery of the sprocket flange and the brake disc flange where the washers or spacer fit.

8. On the brake disc side, Install the spacer.

9. On the driven sprocket side, install the washers.

10. If the rear brake disc was re moved from the axle, apply blue LocUle (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the bolt threads and tighten the bolts (Figure 20) to the torque specification listed in Table I. II. Apply blue Loewe (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the threads of the rear axle inner nut and to the locknut.

13. Install the rear axle locknut. hold the inner nut and tighten rear axle locknut to the torque specification listed in Table I .

14. Repeat Steps 11 ¡ 13 for the other side.

15. If the driven sprocket was removed from the sprocket flange, apply blue Loclite (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the bolt threads and tighten the bolts and nuts (Figure 18) to the torque specification listed in Table I. 16. Inslall the drive chain onto the driven sprocket.

17. Install both wheel hubs.

18. Install a washer on each end of the axle.

19. Install the hub nul on each end oflhe ade and tighten to the torque specification listed in T able 1.

20. Install new coner pins and bend the ends completely. Never reuse an old cotler pin.

2 1. Install the rear wheels as described in this chapler.

22. Adjust the dri ve chain as described in Chapler Three.

23. Install the seal and the rear fender.

NOTE

III the follOWing steps, lise the same tools IISed during rhe remom/seQllence.

11. Install the rear axle inner nut and tighten to the torque specification listed in Ta ble I .

@

REAR AXLE, SUSPENS ION AN D FI NA L DRI VE DRIVEN S PROCKET (CHAI N-DRIV EN l\'IO DEl.S) Rcm01'l1 111"Slallalion Refer to Figure 15 for this procedure.

I. Remove the rear axle as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the bolls and nuts securmg the driven sprocket to the sprocket flange.

3. Slide the sprocket off the axle.

4. If necessary. slide the sprocket flange off the axle.

S. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the followi ng.

6. Install the bolts from the inside, first through the sprocket flange and then through the sprocket.

7. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 21 14) to the bolt threads and tigh ten the bolls and nuts (Figure 18) to the to rque specification listed 10 Table I .

8. Adjust the drive chain as described in Chapter Three.

@

191 REA R AXLE [NS PECTION (A LL MODELS)

I. Inspect the rear axle for signs of fatigue, fractu res or damage. Inspect the splines (Figure II) for wear or damage.

2A. On shaft-driven models, inspeet the brake drum splines where the brake drum meshes with the splines of the axle (Figure 22). Replace the axle or brake drum as necessary.

28. On chain·driven models, inspect the sprocket flange where the driven sprocket attaches. Inspec't the holes In the sprocket flange and the driven sprocket for wear or damage. Replace as nccessar).

3. Check the hole at each end of the axle (Figure 23) where the COlier pin fits. Make sure there are no fractures or cracks leading oul toward the end of the axle. If any are found, replace the axle.

4. Check the axle for straigh tness. Use V-blocks and a dial indicator as shown in Figure 24. Check the runout in the center of the axle and remember that the actual runout is I 2 of the lotal 1Odlcator runoul reading from the dial indicator. If the runout is 3.0 mm (0.12 in.) or greater. the axle must be replaced.

FINA L DRJVE UN IT (SH AFT-DRIVEN MODELS) Remm'lll/ l nsla lllliion Refer to Figure 25 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seal and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

®

•

192

CHAPTER NINE

FINAL DRIVE UNIT ISHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS)

L._._ ._ __ ._. ___ ._._

,.,.

1. Screw Clamp Rubber boot Clamp 5. Univ8r. . ljoint 8. Universal joint e...

7. BoH W••her aasket 10. Spring 11 . Nut 12. Wuher 13. Final driven ge.r coupling

•• •• ••

'4. Oil leal

15. Bearing stopper 16. Spacer H . Bearing 18.

19.

20.

21 .

". ".

Shim

Final bevel gear I.t Bearing

Bolt

". ". ".

Nut Spacer Venl nose 30. Ho•• clamp 31 . Plug 32. Gllket

Bearing el.a (righi-hand Ilde) 33. Bolt O·ring 34. Gasket Oill.al 35. B•• ring c... (.. tt·hand Ilde) 25. e •• ring 36. B••ring stopper pin Shim 37. Fina' ge.r ca ••

". ".

REAR AXLE, SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

193

3. Remove the rear axle as described in Ihis chapler.

4A. On LT230G E models, remove the screws on the clamps (Figure 26) and slide the rubber boot back o n the universal joint case.

48. On LT ·F230 models, remove the nuts (Figure 27) securing the final drive unit to the subtransmission case.

S. Drain the final drive unit oil as described in Chapter Three.

6. Remove the vent tube (A. Figure 28) from the final drive unit.

7. Remove the bolts and spacers (8, Figure 28) securing the final drive unit 10 the frame. Don'l lose the spacers.

8. Pull the final drive unit case loward the rear and disengage the universal joint from the secondary bevel gear assembly splines.

9. On LT230GE models, perform the following: a. Slide the rubber boot (Figure 29) from the universal joint case. b. Remove the universal joint (Figure 30) from the universal joint case.

10. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

IIA. On LT230GE models, apply a coal of molybdenum disulfIde grease 10 the splines of the universal joint the splines of the secondaT)' bevel gear assembly.

1I 1l. On LT-F230 models, apply a coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the splines of the subtransmission and the sccondaT)' bevel gear assembly.

12A. On LT230GE models, carefully align the splines of the uni versal joint with the splines on the SecondaT)' bevel gear assembly.

12B. On LT·F230 models, perform the following: a. Apply a light coat of sealant (Thrt.'e Bond No. 1104. Gasgacineh, or equivalent) to the final drive mating surface of the subt ransmission.

®

CHAPTER N INE

194 b. Carefull y align the splines of the subtransmission with the splines on the secondary bevel gear assembly. c. Install the nuts securing the sublransmission to the fina l drive unit and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table I. I J. Install the moun ting bolls and spacers (Figure 31) and tighten the bolts securely.

14. Refill

the

fi nal

drive

un it

with

the

recommended type and quantity oroil as described in Chapter Three.

Disassembly/ Inspect ionJ Assembly

The final drive unit requires a considerable number of special Suzuki tools for disassembly and assembly. The price of all of these tools could be more than the cost of most repairs or seal replacement by a dealer. figure 25 shows all of the internal components of the final drive unit.

I. Check the entIrC unit for oil leakage.

2. Re move the bolts (Figure 32) securing the rear axle beari ng housing to the fi nal d rive uni l and remove the rear axle bearing housing.

3. On LT230GE models. remove the bolts securing the universal Joint case (Figure 33) to the

ÂŽ

ÂŽ

REAR AXLE. SUSP ENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

195

final dnve UOiI and remove the universal joint case and gasket. Discard the gasket.

4. inspect the rubber boot for deterioration or damage; replace if necessary.

5. On LT230GE models, inspect the universal joint pre· load spring (Figure 34) for wear or damage; replace if necessary.

6. Inspect the splines of the final bevel gear fo r

wear or damage. Refer to Figure JS for the right. hand side or Figure 36 for the len·hand side.

If damaged, repair should be entrusted to a dealer as disassembl y is required.

NOTE If these splines are damaged. Inspect fhe splmes reqllire

011

the fear axle. It may

replacement also.

7. Inspect the grease scal (Figure 37) for damage; replace jf necessary.

8. On LT230GE models, check the pivot points (Figure 38) and the splines (Figure 39 and Figure 40) al each end or the universal joint ror wear or damage. The universal joint cannot be serviced. Ir worn it must be replaced.

NOTE

®

®

If Ihese splines are damaged. inspect the splines m 'hI' secondary berel gear assembly. II may require replacement also.

9. On LT2300E models, install a new gasket (Figure 41 ) and install the universal joint case onto the I1nal drive unit. Install and tighten the bolts securel).

10. Apply a light coat or liquid sealant (Three Bond No. 1104, Gasgacinch, or equivalent) to the final drive mating surfaces and install the rear axle bearing housing onto the final drive unit. Install and tighten the bolts to the torque specification listed in Table I.

@

196

CHAPTER NINE DRIVE SPROCKET AND CHAI N (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS)

Remol'S1

CAUTION

The original Suzuki dril'l' chain is manufacLUred as a cominuous closed loop wllh no master link. Do no/ cuI it

wilh a chain culler as this will result ;n fUlure chain failure and possible loss of control under riding condilions.

NOTE If an aftermarket dr;re chain has been

installed, ;t may be equipped with a master /ink. Follow manu/aclll rer 's ins/me/IOns for remOI'a/. l. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seal and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the gearshift lever.

4. Remove the boils (FiKure 42) securing the drive sprocket guard and remove the guard.

S. Remove the boll securing the reverse gearshift lever and remove the lever (A, Figure 43).

6. Straighten the lockwash~r on th~ drive sprocket nut.

7. Have an assistant apply the rear brake to keep the drive chain taut and keep the drive sprocket from turning.. Remove the nut (8, Figure 43) securing the drive sprocket.

8. Remove the drive chain from the drive sprocket. then remove the lockwasher and the drive sprocket.

9. Remove the swing arm as described in this chapter and pull the drive chain free.

Installation I. Install Ihe swing arm as described in this chapter.

2. Install the drive sprocket, lockwasher and nut.

Tighten the nut to the torque specification listed in Table 1. Fold one side of the lockwasher up against a Rat on the nut.

3. Inslal1 the drive chain onto the driVe sprocket and the driven sprocket.

4. Align the slot on the gearshift lever with the alignment mark on the gearshift shaft and install the lever. Tighten the bolt securely.

5. Install the drive sprocket guard and bolts.

Tighten the bolts securely.

6. Install the gearshift lever and tighten the clamping bolt securely.

7. Install the seal and the rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

8. Adjust the drive chain tension as described in Chapter Three.

REAR AXLE BEARING AND OlL SEAL REPLACEMENT (SHAFT.DRIVEN MODELS) The final drive unit is equipped with bearings and oil seals. Due to the complexity of the final dri ve unit it is recommended that service to the bearings and oil seals be entrusted to a Suzuki dealer.

REAR AXLE BEARING HOUSING (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS) The rear axle bearing housing is attached to the rear of the swing arm and contains the rear axle bearings and the grease seals.

Removal/ Installation I. Completely loosen the rear axle bearing housing clamping bolts (A. Figure 44) at the rear of the swing arm.

REAR AXLE, SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

197

Bearing Remofal

2. Remove lite rear axle as dcscritxd in Ihis chapter.

3. Remove the circlip securing the brake caliper holder and remove the brake caliper holder.

4. Remove the rear axle bearing housing stopper boll (B, Figure 44).

CAUTION

Be care/ul not /0 damage the mner sur/aces of rhe swing arm where Ihe rear axle bearing hOUSing rides. These

surfaces must remain smooth so the rear axle bearing housing can rotale freely for drive chain adjuslrllent.

S. Using a soft-faced mallet, carefully lap the rear axle bearing holder out of the swing arm from the left-hand side. Note that the flanged side of the holder is on the right-hand side.

6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

7. Adjust the rear brake and drive chain as described in Chapter Three.

8. Tighten the rear axle bearing housing Slopper bolt (B, Figure 44) securely.

Bearing Preliminary Inspection Prior to removing the rear axle bearing housing, perform the following.

I. Remove the rear u le as described in this chapler.

2. Wipe off all excessive grease from both bearings.

3. Tum each bearing by hand. Make sure the bearings tum smoothly. Check for roughness and free play. Some axial play (end play) is normal, but radial play (side play) should be negligible.

4. Replace the bearings, if necessary. as described in this chapter.

5. Inspect the grease seals. Replace if they are deteriorating or starting to harden.

Refer 10 F ig ure 45 for this procedure.

I. Remove the rear ax le bearing hou sing as described in this chapter.

2. Carefully remove the grease seal from each side of the rear axle bearing housing.

3. To remove the left and right-hand bearings and center collar, perform the following: a. Insert a soft aluminum or brass drift into one side of the bearing housing. b. Push the center collar over to one side and place the drift on the inner race of the opposite bearing. c. Tap the bearing out of the hub with a hammer working around the perimeter of the inner race. d. Remove that bearing and the center collar and tap out the opposite bearing.

Inspection a nd Lubrication I. On non-sealed bearings, check the balls for evidence of wear, pining or excessive heal (bluish tim). Replace bearings if neeessary; always replace as a complete sel. When replacing, be sure to take your old bearings along to ensure a perfect match up.

NOTE

Fully sealed bearings are arai/able from many bearing specialty shops.

Fully sealed bearings provide beller proleclion from dirt and moisture that may get Into the housing.

2. Thoroughly clean the inside of the rear axle beanng housing with solvent and dry with compressed air or a shop cloth.

3. Do not clean sealed bearings. If non-sealed beari ngs are installed, thoroughly clean them in solvent and thoroughly dry with compressed air.

Do not lei the bearing spin while drying.

4. If non-sealed bearings are to be re-installed , pack the bearings with a good grade of waterproof grease, such as boat trailer wheel bearing grease as follows: a. Spread some grease in the palm of your hand and scrape the open end of the bearing across your pa lm. Continue to add grease until the bearing is packed completely full of grease. b. Slowly spin the bearing a few times to detennine if there are any areas that are void of grease. Thoroughly work the grease in between the balls. c. Tum the bearing by hand a couple more times to make sure the grease is distri buted evenly inside the bearing.

â&#x20AC;˘

CHAPTER NINE

'98 Bearing Installa tion Refer to Figure 45 for th is procedure.

I. Coat the outside of both bearings and inside of the rear axle bearing housing and the center collar with waterproof grease.

ÂŽ

CAUTION

During installalion, tap the bearings squarely illlo place and tap on the outer race only. Use a socket that matches Ihe OUler race

diameter, Do not tap on (he

inner race or the bearing may be damaged. Be SUfl' thai the bearings are completely sealed.

2. On non-sealed bearings. position the bearing with the sealed surfatt facing outward. Non-sealed bearings have onc scaled surface and Ihis surface must face toward the outside.

3. Install the righi-hand bearing.

4. Tum the bearing housing over and install the eenler collar.

5. Install the len-hand bearing.

6. Applya light coal ofm ullipurpose grease to the grease seals.

7. Position the grease seals as shown in Figure 45 and install one on each side of the bearing housing.

8. Install the rear axle bearing housing and rear axle as described in this chapter.

5 1-lOCK ABSORBER (CI-IAIN.DRIVEN MODELS) Remo"al I . Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Place wood block(s) under the frame to support the ATV securely with the rear wheels off of the ground.

3. Remove the scat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Remove both rear wheels as described in this chapter. It is not necessary to remove the wheels, but it makes shock absorber removal a lo t easier.

5. Remove the bolt and nUl (FIgure 46) securing the upper portion of the shock absorber to the frame.

6. Through the opening in the right¡ hand side of the swing arm (Figure 47), remove the bolt and nut (Figure 48) securi ng the lower portion of the shock absorber to the swing arm.

7. Remove the shock absorber assembly from the frame.

Inspection Service is limited to removal and installation of the shock absorbe r. Repiacment parts are not

, 2 1. DUll seal 2. Bearing 3. Spacer

REA R AX LE. SUSPENSION AN D FI NAL DRIVE available. If any portion of the shock is [aully the

199

shock absorber and to the upper and lower

enti re unit must be replaced.

mounting yoke on the frame and the swing arm.

I. Inspecl the upper (A. Figure 49) and lower (8,

2. Position the shock absorber assembly in the frame and inslall the shock absorber upper and lower mounting bolls and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque specification lisled in Table I. 3. Install both rear wheels as described in this chapter.

4. Remove the wood blocks from under the frame.

S. Push down on the rear of the ATV and make sure the rear suspension is operating properly.

6. Install the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

Figure 49) mounting bushings for wear or damage.

Replace the shock absorber if either is damaged.

2. Make sure the shock absorber spring nut and locknut (Figure SO) afC tightened securely. Suzuki

does not provide torque specifications for these nuts.

3. Check the damper unit for dents, oil leakage or other damage. Make sure the damper rod is straight. Replace the shock absorber if any damage is found.

Installation

SWING ARM (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS)

I. Apply a coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the upper and lower mounting bush ings on the

In time. the pi vot needle bearings wi ll wear and will have to be replaced. The condition of the needle bearings can greatly affect handling perfonnance and if worn parts are nOI replaced they ca n produce erratic and dangerous handling.

Common symptoms are wheel hop. pulling 10 one side during acceleration and pulling 10 the other side during braking.

Refer to Figure 51 for this procedure.

RemO\'al J. Place the A T V on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the rear axle as described in this chapter.

4. Remove the shock absorber as described in this chapter.

S. Grasp the rear end of the swing arm and try to move it from side to side in a horizontal arc. There should be no noticeable side play. If play is evident and the pivot bolt nut is tightened correctly, the bearings should be replaced.

6. Remo\'e the plastic cap (Figure 52) from the left-hand side.

7. Remove the pivot bolt self-locking nut and washer (Figure 53).

8. Using a drift and hammer, tap the pivot bolt out of the frame and swing arm. Withdraw the pi vot boll from the right-hand side.

9. Pul l back on the swing arm and remove the swi ng arm from the fra me.

NOTE

Don', lose (he dust seal caps on each Side of both PH'OI poims; they will /lSI/ally fall off when the swing arm is remol¡ed.

CHAPTER NINE

200

ÂŽ

SWING ARM (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELSI 1. 80lt 2. Brake caliper torque link 3. Wa.her

4.

S. 6.

7. e.

9.

10.

11.

12.

Nut Swing ann Pivot bolt DUll leal cap Bushing Needle bearing Center apllcer Thrust wnher Pivot bolt nut

13. Cap 14. Drive chain roller

(K::::::==::;ICI'm"Jl) ~@c:tXJ)C'-_=...lU;'9 6

n! r

Disassembl yI I nspection/ Assembly I. Remove Ihe swing arm as described In this chapter.

2. If necessary. remove Ihe bol ts securing the swing arm skid plate and remove the skid plate.

3. Remove the drive chain roller from the swing

ann.

4. Remove Ihe dust seal caps from bolh pivot points if they have not already fallen off during the removal sequence.

5. Remove the bushing from each side and the center spacer.

6. The needle bearings wear vcry slowly and wear is very difficult to measure. Wipe off any Cltcess grease from Ihe needle bearings within each pivot area of the swing arm and inspect them as follows: a. Turn each bearing wi th your fingers; make sure they rotate smoothly. b. Check the roUers for evidence of wear. pitting or color change (bluish tint) indicating heat from lack of lubrication.

10 8 11 J 3 12 13 14

::::::::J~~(J1bO

dlC::::::c

NOTE

Always replace both nt'edle bearings. eW'n (hough only one may be worn.

7. If the needle bearings need replacing, take the swing arm assembly to a dealer and have them perform the bearing replacement. The needle bearings must be removed and pressed back in with special tools for proper alignment.

8. Coat both needle bearings with molybdenum disulfide grease.

9. Coat both bushi ngs and center collar with molybdenum disulfide grease.

10. Install both bushings and cen ter collar into the swing arm.

II . Install the drive chain roller onto the left¡hand side of the swing arm.

12. Install the thrust washer on each end of the swing arm against the bushings.

13. Coat the inside of both dust seal caps with molybdenum disulfide grease and install them onto both pivot areas of the swing arm.

REAR AXLE. SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

14. Inspect the attach ment points on the swing arm where the shock a bsorber is attached. If worn or damaged the swing arm m ust be replaced.

15. Install the swing arm as described in this chapter.

Installation 1. Make sure that all dust seals are in position.

2. Place the swing arm through the drive chain and position the swing arm into the mounting area.

Align the holes in the swing arm with the holes in

201

the frame. To help align the holes, insert a drift in from the left-hand side.

3. Apply a light coat of grease 10 the pivot bolt and perform the following: a. After all holes 3rc aligned, insert the pivot bol! from the right-hand side. b. Install the washer on the oivot bolt . c. Install the self. locking nut and tighten to the torque specification listed in Ta ble I. 4. Install the rear axle as described in this chapter.

S. Install the seat and rear render as described in Chapter Eleven.

Tabl. 1 REAR SUSPENSION TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS It.m and modal

N..,

ft.·lb.

Rear hub nut Wheel nuts Axle locknut Axle Inner nut Drive sprocket bolts and nuts Rear axle beering houalng bolts Drive sprocket nuts Re.r brake disc bolts Shock absorber bolts and nuts Swing arm pI,ot bolt and nut Subtran.misslon·to·flnal drive unit nut.

85·115 45-86 160· 200 160·200 25-39 18·26 80· 100 15-25 40·60 50· 80 24· 31

62· 63 33·47 115· 144 115-144 18·26 13· 20

58·73 11·16 29·44 36-58 17· 23

CHAPTER TEN

BRAKES

Both the front and rear brakes on the shaft-driven models are drum type while the chain-driven models are equipped with disc brakes at both the front and the rear.

All ATV models are equipped with a parking brake that is cable operated and is integrated into the rear brake assembly. The brake is activated by the hand lever on the left-hand side of the handlebar.

WARNING When working on the brake sysem. do IIot inhale brake dusl. II may contain asbestos. which can cause lung injury and cancer.

Both the drum and disc brake models use the same type of front master cylinder, which is covered under one procedure in the disc brake section.

DRUM BRAKES The front brakes are hydraulically operated. The rear brake is cable operated and can be activated either by the foot pedal or the lever on the left-hand side of the handlebar.

Lever and pedal free play must be maintained on both brakes to minimize brake drag and premature brake wear and maximize braking effectiveness.

Refe r to Chapter Three for complete adjustment procedures.

Both rear brake cables must be inspected and replaced periodically as they will stretch with use until they can no longer be properly adjusted.

Refer to Ta ble I for drum brake specifications.

Table 1 and Table 2 are located at the end of this chapter.

FRONT DRUM BRAKES Brake S hoe Replacement Refer to Figure I for this procedure.

WARNING inhale brake dust. It may contain asbestos, which can cause lung injury and cancer.

Do

IIo t

I. Remove the front wheels and the hublbrake drum assembly as described in Chapter Eight.

2. Using a pair o f pliers, rotate the brake shoe hold down pins (A, FiRure 2) 90' .

3. Pull the brake shoes out of the notches in the brake shoe retainer (8, Figure 2) and the wheel cylinder (C, Figure 2).

CAUTION Place a clean shop rag on the linings to protl!Ct them from oil and grease during removal.

4. Remove the brake shoes (0, Figure 2) from the backing plate by firm ly pulling out and up on the center of each shoe.

S. Remove the return springs and separate the shoes.

6. Inspect the brake components as described in this chapter.

BRAKES

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

203

Hub bearing Inner con. r CU I I , . .J Hubfbrake drum Bolt Brake backing plate

FRONT DRUM BRAKE 9.

10.

11 .

12.

13. DUlt • ••1

14. Brake , hoe hold down pin Hi. 80lt

7. Bolt 8. Brake shoe Bleed scr.w

18. arake , hoe

Threaded stud Hub bearing Brake adjuste r plug

17. Hold down spring

ar@

la. Brake ,hoe anchOf 19. Wheel cylinder ...embly

18

15

7. Assemble the brake by reversing the disassembl y Sleps. nOling the following.

8. Apply a ligh t coat of silicone grease 10 the brake shoe locating notches in the wheel cylinder and the brake shoe anchor.

9. Apply a light coat of silicone grease to the raised pads on the backside of the brake shoes' metal plate where the brake shoes ride on the brake backing plale. Avoid getling any grease on the brake linings.

NOTE

Figure 1 is shown with the brake backing plow assembly mnol'ed Jor clarity. Backing plale rl.'I1IOI'al is not necessary for this procedure.

10. Attach the shoe return springs to the brake shoes so the center section of the spring is posi titoned toward the brake cylinder and the brake shoe anchor (Figure J ).

I J. Hold the brake shoes in a ~V"·formation with the return springs attached and snap them in place into the brake shoe anchor and wheel cylinder on the brake backing plate. Make sure they are firml y seated on the brake backing plale.

NOTE If new shoes are beillg mstalled. fill.' off the leading edge of each Iming a liule so that the brake will not grab when applii'd.

12. Install the front wheel and hub/brake drum assembly as described in Chapter Eight.

CHAPTER TEN

204 13. Adjust tht fronl brakes as described in Chapter Three.

Wheel C)'li nder Remo,'aVI nstallalion The wheel cylinder cannot be rebuilt as replacement pans art nOI available. If worn, leaking or damaged in any way, replace the cylinder assembly.

Refer to Figure 1 for this procedure.

I. Perform Steps I_S of Brake Shoe Replacement in this chapler.

2. Unscrew the fitting (Figure 4) sc<:uring the metal brake line \0 the rear of Ihe wheel cylinder.

3. Remove the bollS (Figure .5) securing the brake backing plale assembly to thc steering knuc kle and remove Ihe backing plait assembly.

4. Remove the bolts (Figure 6) securing the wheel cylinder \0 Ihe brake backing plale and remove the wheel cylinder.

S. Clean off thc area where the wheel cylinder attachC5 to Ihc brake backing plate.

6. Apply a light coat or Gasgacinch, Three Bond No. 1104 or equivalent to the wheel cylinder mounting area or the brake backing pia Ie. 7. Instalilhe wheel cylinder and bolls. Tighten the bolls to the torque specificalion listed in Table 2.

8. Clean off the mounting surrace or the steering knuckle (Figure 7) where the brake backing plate attaches.

9. Apply a light coat or Gasgacinch, Three Bond No. 1104 or equivalent to the mounting surface or the steering knuckle and install the brake backing plate assembly.

10. Install the bolts and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

II. Screw on the fining (Figure 4) securing the metal brake line the the rear or the wheel cylinder and lighten to the torque specification listed in Ta ble 2.

12. Perrorm Steps 8¡ 13 or Brake Shoe Replacement in this chapter.

13. Bleed the brakes as described in this chapter.

REA R DRUM BRA KE

Bra ke S hot Replacement Rerer to Figure 8 ror this procedure.

1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

WARNING Do flot inhale brake dUSI. II may

contain asbestos. which can cause lung injury and canCf'r.

0

205

BRAKES

REAR DRUM BRAKE 13. Bolt 1. Bolt

5. Brake shoe.

2. Brake dnlm cover

6. Duat ••• 1

3. Gasket

7. Camshaft 8. Axle housing

4. Brake drum

9. O·ring 10. Spacer 11. Spring 12. Brake arm

14. Drain bolt

15. Strap

18. Bolt 17. Axle nut

2. Remove the rear axle as described in Chapter Nine.

CAUTION Place Q clean shop rag on the linings lQ protect them/rom oil and grl'asedurillg

remo\'o/.

3, Remove the brake shoes (Figure 9) fro m the rear axle housing by pulling up on the center of _ . each shoe. ~ 4. Remove the return springs and separate the shoes. After removal, place the brake shoes in a plastic bag 10 avoid contaminating them wi th oil or

grease.

5. To remove the brake arm, perform the fo llowing: a. Com pletely unscrew both adj usting nuts (A, Figure 10) from the e nd of the brake cable a nd brake rod. Remove the cable, rod and pi vot pins from the brake arm. Rei nstall the pivot pins a nd adjusting nuts onto the brake cable and rod to avoid misplacing them. b. Unscrew the nut (8 , figure 10) and remove the bolt clamping the brake arm to the brake camsha ft . c. Remove the brake arm (C. figure 10) from the brake camshaft. d. Remove the brake camsha ft (Figure I I) from the axle housing. e. Remove the O-ring seal from the recess in the axle housing hole where the brake camsha ft pivots. This O-ring must be replaced every time the camshaft is removed.

206

CHAPTER TEN

6. Inspect all brake components as described in this chapter.

7. To install the brake arm, perform the following: a. InSlall a new a路ring seal into the recess in the axle housing hole where the brake camshaft pivots. Apply a light coat of mUllipurpose grease to the O-ring seal after installation. b. Install the brake camshaft (Figure I t) into the axle housing. c. Align the punch marks on the brake arm and brake camshft and install the brake arm (C, Figure 10) onlO Ihe brake camshaft. d. 1nSIall Ihe clamping bolt and nut (D, Figure 10) securing the brake arm to the brake camshaft. Tighten the bolt and nut to the torque specification listed in Table 2. e. Install both adjusting nuts (A, FiKu re 10) onto the end of the brake cables.

8. Apply a light coal of molybdenum d isulfide grease to the brake camshaft and pi vot post (FiKure 12). Avoid getting any grease on the brake plate where the linings come in contact with it.

9. If removed , attach the return springs to the brake shoes.

NOTE

Place a clean shop rag on the linings to protect them from oil and grease during installQlion.

10. Hold the brake shoes in a

~v"路rormalion and

snap Ihem in place on the brake backing plate.

Make sure the shoes are firmly seated on the plate.

r0~~:~~~~~~~~~==--1 @

NOTE

If new shoes are being installed. file off the leading edge of each lining a little (Figun J J) so that the brake will not

grab ....,hen applied.

II. Install the rear axle as described in Chapter Nine.

12. Adjust the rear brake as described in Chapter Three.

Rear Drum Brake Cable Replacemen t (Left .hand Le,'er Cable) Brake cable adjustment should be checked periodically as the cable stretches with use and increases brake lever free play. Free play is the distance that the brake lever tra vels between the released position and the point when the brake shoes come in contact with the drum.

If the rear brake adjustment described in Chapter Three can no longer be achieved, the cable must be replaced.

Remember that the rear brake can be activated either by the cable operated hand lever on the

-+left路 hand side of the handlebar or by the rod actuated foot pedal on the right路hand side o f the vehicle.

The front brakes are operated by hydraulic fluid.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and block the wheels so the vehicle will not roll in either direclion.

2. Remove the seat.

3. Remove the rear fenders as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six.

207

BRAKES NOTE

The pit>Cl' of strmg allached In fhe next step 11'111 be used to pullihe new brake cable back through Ihe [rame so lhe flew cable will be routed in the exact same way as the old one.

7. Tie a piece of heavy string or cord (approximately 6 ft .l1.8 m long) to the rear end of the brake cable. Wrap this end with masking or duct tape. Do not use an excessive amount oflapc as it muSI be pulled through the hole (0. Figur{' 1S) in Ihe top plate in the sleering column during removal. Tie Ihe olher end of Ihe Siri ng 10 Ihe frame or rear alile.

8. Remove Ihe melal bands or plaslic lie wraps securing Ihe cable to the fram e.

9. Allhe handlebar end of the cable. carefully pull the cable (and allached Siring) out from behmd Ihe headlight housing. Make sure Ihc attached siring follows Ihe original palh of the cable th rough the frame and through Ihe hole in Ihc top plate in Ihe slcenng column.

10. Remove the tape and untie the string from Ihc old cable.

II . Lubricate Ihe new cable as described under COII/ro! Cahles in C hapter Three.

12. T ie the Siring \0 the brake mechanism end of the new brake cable and wrap it with tape.

13. Carefully pull the string back through the frame. rouling the new cable Ihrough the same path as the old cable.

14. Remove the tape and untie the string from the cable and Ihe fra me or rear axle.

15. Inscn the pivot pin into Ihc brake arm and slide Ihe return spring onto the cable. Allach the cable to Ihc brake arm and brake lever.

16. Attach Ihe metal bands or plastic lie wraps 10 Ihe new cable in their original positions on Ihe frame .

17. Install the fuel tank. fenders and scat.

18. Adjust Ihe rear brake as described in Chapler Three.

Rear Drum Brake Pedal and Rod Rcmo\ alI I nsts \lalion

5. AI the brake assembly, completely unscrew the upper adjusting nut (A. Figure 14) from the end of the brake cablc. Remove the cable and pivot pin from the brake arm. Reinstall the pivot pin and adjusting nut OniO the brake cable to avoid misplacing them.

6. Pull the left¡hand brake kvcr (A. Figure IS) all the way 10 the grip, remove the cable nipple from the lever and remove the cable.

I . Remove the cotler pin and washer (A. Figure 16) from the end of Ihe brake rod. Discard the coller pin. Never reuse a cotler pin as Ihe ends may break off and the pin may fatl out.

2. Slide the brake rod out of the brake pedal pivot

ann .

3. Remo\'e Ihe bolt and nut (8. Figure 16) securing the brake pedal to the pedal pivot arm and slide the brake pedal off the pivol ann.

II I

CHAPTER TEN

208

4. If necessary, remove the return spring from the frame or pedal pivot arm with Vise Grips and remove the pedal pivot arm from Ihe frame.

S. AI Ihc brake assembly, completely unscrew the lower adjusting nut (0. Figure 14) from Ihe end of the brake rod. Remove the rod and pivot pin from the brake arm. Reinstall Ihe pivot pin and adjusting nut onlO Ihe brake rod \0 avoid misplacing them . Remove the rod from the frame.

6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

7. Apply grease to the pedal pivot shaft prior to instailing it in the frame .

8. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.

9. Be sure that the return spring is properly attached.

10. Insen the pivot pin into thc brake arm and slide the return spring OntO the rod. Auach the rod to the brake arm and brake lever.

II. Adjust the rear brake as described in Chapter Three.

DR UM BRA KE INSPECTION (FRONT AND REA R) I. Thoroughly clean and dry all parts except the linings.

2. Cheek the contact surfaa: of the drum (Figure 17) for scoring. If there are grooves deep enough to snag a fingernail , the drum should be reground and new shoes fitted . This type of wear can be avoided to a great extent if the brakes are disassembled and thoroughly cleaned after riding the vehicle in water, mud or deep sand.

®

.,

NOTE If oil or grease is on the drum sllr/ace. clean it o.o· I\·;lh a clean fag soaked in lacqlll'r Ihinncr-do nOilise any sofrent thaI may leal'c an oil residlle.

3. On the Teaf brake, inspect the splines (Figure 18) on the rear axle and the rear brake drum for wear or damage. The drum must be replaced if the splines are damaged.

4. Use a vernier caliper and check the inside diameter of the drum for out-of-round or excessive wear. Turn the drum if it will still be within the servia: limit dimension. Replace the drum it is worn to the service limit listed in Table J or greater.

5. If the drum iSlurned. the linings will have to be replaa:d and the new linings arced to the new drum contour.

6. Inspect the linings for imbedded foreign material. Din can be removed with a stiff wire

brush. Check for traces of oil or grease. If they are contaminated, they must be replaced.

7. Measure the brake linings with a vernier caliper (Figure 19). They should be replaced ifwom 10 the service limil (distance from the metal backing plate) or less as listed in Table l.

8. On the rear brake, inspect the camshan lobe and the pivot pin area of the shan for wear and corrosion. Minor roughness can be removed with fine emery cloth.

209

BRAKES

...

@

ÂŽ

c. Apply a light coal ofGasgacinch. Three Bond No. 1104 or equivalent to the brake shoe anchor mounting area of the brake backing plate. d. Install the brake shoe anchor and bolt.

Tighten the bolt 10 the torque specification listed in Table 2.

10. Inspect the braKe shoe return springs for wear.

If they arc stretched, they will not fully retract the brake shoes from the drum, resulting in a power-robbing drag on the drums and p remature wear of the linings. Replace as necessary and always replace as a pair.

DISC BRAKES

I

FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER

1. Bolt

1

2. Caliper holder

3. Brake padl

~

3

-~

â&#x20AC;˘.

5.

6.

7, 8.

Pad ,prin~, Caliper body Bleed screw '.

Platon s.al \ Pil ton s.al

8. Piston

The front disc brakes arc actuated by hydraulic fluid and are controlled by a hand lever on the handlebar moumed master cylinder. The rear disc brake is actuated by hydraulic fluid and is controlled by a foot operated brake pedal and master cylinder. As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid level drops in the reservoir and automatically adjusts for wear.

When working on hydraulic brake systems. it is necessary that the work area and all tools be absolutely clean. Any tiny panicles of foreign matter and grit in the caliper assembly or the master cylinder can damage the components. Also, sharp tools must nOI be used inside the caliper or on the piston. If there is any doubt about your ability to correctly and safely carry out major service on the brake componen ts. take the job to a dealer or brake specialist.

There is no recommended mileage interval for changing the friction pads in the disc brake. Pad wear depends greatly on riding habits and conditions. The pads should be checked for wear every 6 months (600 miles or 1,000 km) and replaced when worn to the service limit dimension (or less) (Figure 21) as indicated in T able 1. To maintain an even brake pressure on the disc always replace both pads in the caliper at the same time.

CAUTION

9. On front brakes, inspect the brake shoe anchor (FiRure 20) for wear or damage. If replacement is necessary, perform the following: a. Remove the bolt securing the brake shoe anchor to the brake backing plale and remove the brake shoe anchor.

b. Clean off the a rea where the brake anchor attaches to the brake backing plate.

Watch the pads more closely when the pads wear close to the wear Jimit dimension. If pad wear happens to M rmel'en for some reason the backillg plale may come in cOn/acl with the disc and caliSi' damage.

FRONT BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT

Refer to Figure 22 for this procedure.

1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

II

CHAPTER TEN

210 2. Remove the front wheels as described in Chapter Eight. ) . Remove the bolts (Figure 23) securing the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle.

4. Slide the cal iper assembly off the brake disc.

5. Remove both brake pads and the pad spri ng.

6. Clean the pad recess and the end of the piston (Figure 24) with a soft brush. Do not use solvent, a wire brush or any hard tool which would damage the cylinder or the piston.

7. Carefully remove any rust or corrosion from the disc.

8. Lightly coat the end of the piston and the backs o f the new pads not (the fn'ction material) with disc brake lubricant.

@

NOTE

When purchasing new paas. check with your dealer to make sure rhe fricrion compound ofthe new paa is compatible with the disc material. Remol'e any roughness from the backs of the new paas with afine cWfile ana wipe away the filings.

9. When new pads are installed in the caliper. the master cylinder brake fluid level wi ll rise as the caliper piston is repositioned. Perfo rm the

fo llowing: a. Clean the lOp orlhe master cylinder or all dirt and foreign matter. b. Remove the screws securing the cap (Figure 25). Remove the cap and the diaphragm from the master cylinder and slowly push the caliper piston inlO the caliper. c. Constantly check the reservoir 10 make sure brake fluid does not overflow. Remove fluid, if necessary. prior to it overflowing. d . The caliper piston should move free ly. If is doesn't, and there is evidence ofi l sticking in the cylinder, the caliper should be removed and serviced as described under Caliper Rebuilding in this chapter.

10. Push the caliper piston in all the way (Figure 24) to allow room for the new pads.

II. Install the brake pad spring (Figure 26).

12. Install the inboard pad (Figure 27) and then the outboard pad (figure 28) onto the mounting pins on the caliper holder.

I). Carefully install the caliper assembly onto the disc. De careful not to damage the leading edge of the pads during installation.

14. Install the front caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

15. Repeat Steps )-14 for the other wheel.

Q\ 25 \t!)

BRAKES

211 16. Install the rront wheels as described in Chapler Eight.

17. Spin the fro nl wheel and activate the brake lever as many limes as it takes to refill the cylinder in the caliper and correctl y locate the pads.

WARNING Use brake fluid/rom a sealed comailler marked DOT 3 or DOT >I only (specifil'd Jar disc brakes). Other t)'Pf'S mo), \'opori:e and cause brake failufe,

Do nOI mtermi.x different brands or types as Ihey may nOI be compatible.

Do nat tn/erm/x a silicone based (DOT 5) brak(' fluid as il can cause brake componem damage leading 10 brake s),s/(!m failure.

18. Refill the master cylinder reservoir, if necessary, to maintain the corrett fluid level (Figure 29). Install the diaphragm and tOp cap.

Tighten the screws securely.

WARNING Do nOI fIde the ATV umil )'011 are sure the brakes are operating correctly .....ith full hrdraulic adramage. If necessary, bleed rile brake as described in rhis (hapler.

®

19. Bcd the pads in gradually for the first 10 da ys of riding by using only light pressure as much as possible. Immediate hard application will glaze the new frict ion pads and greatly reduce the effect iveness of the brake.

REAR BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT Refer to Figure 30 for this procedure.

REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER

,.,.

Bracket Pad mounling boll 3. Caliper mounting bOlt Boll Du.t teat 900t Plslon seat Pilton assembly 10. Padl 7. Pilton

••

•• @) ••

•• ••

PI" 900t 14. Caliper body

15. 900t

".

18. 900' 19. Parking brake arm 20. Parking brake adJulI bott 21 . Nut

Parking brake body

17. Bolt

II

2 12

CHAPTER TEN

1. Place the ATV on level ground. Block the frolll wheel so the ATV can not move in either direction.

2. Place wood blod::(s) under the slid plate to suppon Ihe ATV with Ihc rear wheels ofT the ground.

3. Remove the seat and the rear fende r assembly as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Straighten the locking labs on the lockwasher (A, Figure 31) and loosen the pad mounting bolts (8 , Figure J I).

5. Remove the boils (A, Fillure 32) securing the caliper assembly to the caliper bracket.

6. Loosen Ihe torque link bolt (8, Figure 32) and remove thc caliper assembly and torque link from Ihe disc. Tie the assembly up to t.hc frame with a Bungee cord (Figure 33),

7. Remove both brake pads and shim and the brake spring.

8. Clean the pad recess and the end of the piston (Figure 34) with a soft brush. Do not usc solvent, a wire brush or any hard 1001 which would da mage the cylinder or piston .

9. Carefull y remove any rust or corrosion from the disc.

10. Lightly coat the end of the piston and the backs of the new pads (not the friction material) with disc brake lubricant.

NOTE

When purchasing new pads. check with your dealer to make sure the friction compound ofthe new pad is compatib/t' with tht' disc malenal. Remol'f' any roughness from lhe backs of the new pads with a fine Cill file and wipe away lhl' filings.

II. When new pads are installed in the caliper, the master cylinder brake fluid level will ri se as the caliper piston is repositioned. Perform the following; a. Clean the top o f the master cylinder of all dirt and foreign mauer. b. Remove the screws securing the cap (Figure 35) and remove the cap, the diaphragm and the fl oat from the master cylinder and slowly push the caliper piston into the caliper. c. Constantly check the reservoi r to make sure brake fluid does not overflow. Remove fluid , if necessary, prior to it overflowing. d. The caliper piston should move freely. If it doesn't, and there is evidence of it sticking in the cylinder, the caliper should be removed and serviced as described under Caliper Rebuilding in this chapter.

11. Push .he caliper piston (Figure 34) in all the way to allow room for the new pads.

ÂŽ

BRAKES

213

13. Install the pad spring into the caliper.

14. InSlali the shim (Figure 36) onto the inboard pad and install the inboard pad into the caliper (Figure 37).

15. Install the outboard pad (Figure 38) into the caliper, install a new lockw3sher and both pad mounting bolts (Fiaure 39), Tighten the bolts only finger-tight at Ihis time.

16. Remove the Bungee cord and carefully install the caliper assembly on lo the disc. Be careful nOllO damage the leading edges of the pads during installation.

17. Install the caliper mounting bolls and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

18. Tighten the pad mounting bolts to the torque specfication listed in Table 2. Bend one of the locking tabs up against a flat of each pad mounting bolt head.

19. Tighlen the torque link boll to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

20. Shin the transmission into NEUTRAL. 21. Spin the rear wheels and activate the brake pedal as many limes as it takes to refililhe cylinder in the caliper and correctly locate the pads.

ÂŽ

a

WARNING Use brake fluid from a sealed container marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 only (specified for disc brakes). Other rypes maJI I'aporize and cause brake failure.

Do nor intermix different brands or types as they may not be compatible.

Do nor /filer/niX a silicone based (DOT 5) brake fluid as il can cause brake component damage leading to brakl' syslem failure.

22. Refill the master cylinder reservoi r, if necessary, 10 maintain the correct fluid level.

ÂŽ

214

CHAPTER TEN

Insla ll the diaphragm and lOp cap. Tighten the screws securely.

®

WARNI NG Do not ride the ATV un/il you are sure

Ihe brake is operating correctly with/ult hydralilic ad~·antage. If necessary, bleed the brake as described in this chapter.

23. Bed the pads in gradually for the first 10 da ys of riding by using only light pressure 85 much as possible. Immediate hard application will glaze the new friclion pads and greatly reduce the effecti veness of the brake.

FRONT MASTER CYLINDER (DRUM AND DISC BRAKE MODELS)

®

The front master cylinder is the same for both drum and disc brake models. The only difference between the two brake systems is a slight variation in brake hoses used from the master cylinder to the fronl brake assemblies.

Rem01'alll nslallalion

I. Place the A TV on level ground and set the parking brake.

CAUTION

COI'er the fuel rank and front fender with a heal'Y cloth or plastic larp to protect them from accidental brake fluid spills. Wash any brake fluid off any painred or plated surfaces immediately. as it will destroy the finish. Use soapy water and rinse completely.

2. Pull back the rubber boot (A. FiKure 40) and remove the union bolt (8, Figure 40) securing the brake hose to the master cylinder and remove the brake hose. Tie the bra ke hose up and cover the end to prevent the entry o f foreign maner.

3. Remove the clamping bolts (FiKure 41 ) and clamp securing the master cylinder to the hand lebar and remove the master cylinder.

4. Install by reve rsing these removal steps. nOling the following.

5. Tighten the upper clamping bolt first and then the lower bolt to the torque spe<:ification listed in Table 2.

6. Install the brake hose onto the master cylinder.

Be sure to place a sealing washer on each side of the fitting and inSlall the union boll. Tighten the union bolt to the torque spe<:ificalion listed in Table 2.

7. Bleed the brake as described in this chapter.

Disassembly Refer to Figure 42 for disc brake models or Figure 43 for drum brake models for th is procedure.

I. Remove the master cylinder as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the bolt and nut securing the brake lever and remove the brake lever.

3. Remove the screws securing the cover and remove the cover and diaphragm; pour out the brake fluid and discard il . Hel'tr reuse brake fluid.

4. Remove the rubber boot from the area where the hand lever actuates the internal piston.

S. Using circlip pliers, re move lhe internal circlip from the body.

6. Remove the piston/primary cup assembly.

7. Remove the spring.

Inspection I. Clean all parts in denatured alcohol or fm;h brake Huid. Inspect the cylinder bore and piston contact surfaces for signs of wear and damage. If either part is less than perfect. replace it.

2. Check the end of the piston for wear caused by the hand lever a nd check the pivot bore in the front hand lever. Replace the piston assembly if either cup is worn or damaged.

• BRAKES

2 15

'i

@

V ..

~ ~.

1

5

..

3, Inspect the pivot hole in Ihe hand lever. Ifworn or elongated, it must be replaced.

4. Make sure the passages in Ihe bonom of the brake Huid reservoir are clear. Ched the reservoir cap and diaphragm for damage and deterioration and replace as necessary.

S. Inspect the threads in the bores for the brake line.

6. C heck the fronl hand lever pivollug for cracks.

7. Measure the cylinder bore (Figure 44), Replace thc master cylinder if the bore exceeds the service limit listed in Ta ble I. 8. Measure the outside diameter of the piston assembly as shown in Figure 45 with a micrometer.

Replace the piston assembly if it is less than the service limit listed in Table I. AsSt'mbl y

1. Piston and cup let 2. Cover 3. Diaphragm

1. Soak the new piston assembly in fresh bra ke fluid for at least 15 minutes to make the cups pliable. Coat the inside of the cylinder with fresh brake fluid prior to the assembly of parts.

4. Body 5.

6.

7.

8.

9,

Bolt Clamp Rubber boot Union boH Sealing washer

CAUTION installmg the pistoll assembl}'. do not allow Ihe cups 10 /Urn IIIside 0111 as Ihey will be damaged and alloll' brake flllid leakage lI'ilhin the C)'linder bore.

10

Ii 'hen

14

16

15

FRONT MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE LINES (DISC BRAKES) 10. Upper flexible brake ho••

H . E-n"g 12. 3·wey joint 13. Malal brake line

14. lower flnibl. brake hal. (right-hand side ) 15. L.ower flexible brake hal. (Iaft· hand sid e) 16. Ho• • c lip

~

2. Install the spring and the piston assembly mto the cylinder together. The spring's tapered end faces toward the piston assembly.

3. Install the stopper plate and circlip. Slide in the rubber boot.

4. Install the diaphragm and cover, Do not tighten the cover screws al this time as fluid will have to be added later.

5, Install the brake lever onto the master cylinder body.

6. Inslall the master cyl inder as described in this chapter.

REA R MASTER CYLI NDER (DISC BRAKE MODELS) Removall1 nsla llalion I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and the rear fe nder assembly as described in Chapler Eleven. During rear fender removal. the bolts securing the master cylinder to the frame were removed.

II

216

CHAPTER TEN

@

1. Pislon and cup sel 2. Cover 3. Diaphragm 4. Body

S. Bolt 6. Union bolt 7. Sealing washer 8. Upper flexible brake hoae

FRONT MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE LINES IDRUM BRAKES)

9. 3-way joint 10. Inner metal brake line

.ob, 1 6

(right-hand aide) 11. Inner metal brake line (left-hand aide) 12. Outer metal brake line (right-hand side) 13. Hose guide

14. E-clip 15. Lower flexibie brake hose (right-hand side) 16. Lower flexible brake hose (Ieft· hand side) 17. Mounting bracket 18. Outer metal brake line (left-hand side)

18

2 17

BRAKES CAUTION COIW the surroundinK frame with a hear)' cloth or plastic rarp LO protect it

ÂŽ

from accidental brake fluid spills. Wash any brake flUId off any paimed or plated surfaces immediately, as if will destroy {he finish. Use soapy water and

rinse camp/err/yo

3. Place a container under the brake hose.

4. Remove the union bolt (Figure 46) securing the brake hose to the backside or the master cylinder and remove the brake hose. Don't lose the sealing washers on each side of the brake hose fitting.

1. Master cyllnder

2. Cylinder gauge

WARNING Dram the fluid from (he hose and discard it-tU!I'er rellse brake fluid.

COnla minated brake fluid may cause hrake failure.

5. Place a container under the brake hose.

6. Remove the hose clamp (A, Figure 47) securing the reservoir brake hose (0 (he master cylinder.

WARNING Drain the f luid from the hose and discard It-nel'er reuse brake flUid. Contammated brake fluid may calise brake failure.

7. Remove the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin (Figure 48) from the rod eye at the bottom of the master cylinder.

8. Remove the master cylinder from the frame.

9. To remove the reservoir, remove the flange bolt . .

(13. F igure 47) securing it to the frame and remove I the reservoir.

10. Install by reveniing these removal steps. noting the following.

II. Inspect the brake actuating rod boot on the bottom of the master cylinder. Replace if it is crack.ed or deteriorated.

CHAPTER TEN

218 12. Install a new cotter pin on the pivot pin and bend the ends over completely. Never reuse an old cotler pin.

13. Install the brake hose onto the master cyl inder.

Be sure to place a sealing

wa~her

on each side of

the fitting and install the union bolt. Tighten the union bolt to the torque specification listed in

Table 2.

14. Bleed the brake as described in this chapler.

Disassembly Refer to Figure 49 for this procedure.

I. Remove the master cylinder as described in Ihis chapler.

2. Slide the rubber boot down the master cylinder piston rod.

3. Using circ1ip pliers. remove the iOlemal circiip from the body.

4. Remove the piston rod, the pislOnlcup assembly and the spring from the body.,

NOTE

If the pjston assembly is difficult /0 remore from. the body. apply a small amoll'" ofair pressure to the brake host' receptacle in the body. Hold your hand O l"er the opening in the end of the body and catch the piston assembly and spring as Ihey are forced Ollt by Ihe air pressurl'. inspection J. Clean all parts in denatured alcohol or fresh brake fluid . Inspect the cylinder bore and piston contact surfaces for signs o f wear and damage. If either part is less than perfect. replace it.

2. Check the end of the piston for wear caused by the pushrod. Replace the piston assembly if worn or damaged.

3. Make sure the passages in the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir are clear. Check the reservoir cap and diaphragm for damage and deterioration and replace as necessary.

4. I.nspect the threads in the bore for the brake line.

5. Measure the cylinder bore (Figure 50). Replace the master cylinder if the bore exceeds the service limit listed in Table 1.

6. Measure the outside diameter of the piston assembly as shown in Figure 5 1 with a micrometer.

Replace the piston assembly if the diameter is less than the service limit listed in Ta ble 1.

Assembly 1. Soak the new piston assembly in fresh brake fluid for at least 15 minutes to make the cups

t . Mâ&#x20AC;˘â&#x20AC;˘ ter cylinder 2. Cylinder oa~

BRAKES

219

TO REAR CO,L"""

REAR MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE LINES (DISC BRAKES,

1.

2.

3.

4.

Cover Diaphragm Body Hose clamp

S. Bolt 6. Reservoir flexible brake hose

7. Elbow B. Union bolt 9. Sealing washer 10. Flexible brake ho •• 11 . Spring 12. Pilton/cup numbly

13. Pillon rod 14. Circlip

15. Boot 16. Nut 17. Eye 18. Nut

13

•

14 15

~'6

~

11

W-18

I

CHAPTER TEN

220 pliable. Coal Ihe inside of the cylinder with fresh brake fluid prior 10 the assembly of pans.

@

CAUTION When installmg the pis/on assembly. do nOI allow the cups /0 IIIrn inside out as rhey ....iII be damaged and allow

brake fluid leakage within the c}'linder bore.

1. Install the spring and the piston assembly into

the cylinder together. The spring's tapered end faces toward Ihe piston assembly.

3. Install Ihe pislOn rod assembly and install the circtip. Slide the rubber boot into position.

4. Install the master cylinder as described in this chapter.

FRONT CALIPER Rem(H'al/ lnstalhuion

Refer to Figure 22 for Ihis procedure.

CAUTION Do 110/ spill any brake flUId on the pamted portion of rhe sleering knuckle or fronl wishbone. Wash offany spilled brake j luid ill/med,a/e/J', as if ",ill destroy the finish. Use soapy water and rinse complnely.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the front wheels as described in Chater Eight.

3. Place a container under the brake line at the caliper.

4. Remove the union bolt and sealing washers (A, Figure 52) securi ng the brake line to the caliper assembly.

5. Remove the brake line and let Ihe brake fluid drain oul into Ihe container. Dispose of Ihis brake fluid-never reuse brake fluid . To prevent the entry of moisture and dirt, cap the end of Ifte brake line and tie the loose end up 10 the fronl fork.

6. Remove the bolts (8, Figure 52) securing the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle. Push on the caliper while loosening the bolts to push the piston back into the caliper.

7. Remove the caliper assembly.

8. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

9. Carefully install the caliper assembly onlO the disc. Be careful not to damage the leading edge of the pads during installation.

10. Tighten the caliper mounting bolls 10 the torque specification listed in Table 2.

II. Install the brake hose, with a sealing washer on each side of the fitting, onto the caliper. Inslall the

union bolt and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

12. Repeat Steps 3¡1 I for the other wheel.

13. Spin the front wheels and activate the brake lever as many times as il takes to refill the cylinder in the caliper and correctly loca le the pads.

iVARNING Use brake fluid from a sealed container marked DOT J or DOT 4 only (specified for disc brakes). Other types may I'aporiu and cause brake failure.

Do not intermix different brands or types as they may not be compatible.

Do not intermix a silicone based (DOT 5) brake fluid as it can cause brake componem damage leading to brake system failure.

14. Refill the master cylinder reservoir, if necessary, to maintain the correct fluid level.

Inslall the diaphragm and top cap. Tighten the screws securely.

15. Bleed the brake as described in th is chapter.

iVARNING Do not rMe the ATV until }'ou are sure that the brakes are operating properly.

Caliper Rebuilding If the caliper leaks the caliper should be rebuilt.

If the piston sticks in the cylinder, indicating severe wear or galling, the en lire unit should be replaced. Rebuilding a leaky caliper ~quires special tools and experience.

Caliper service should be entrusted to a dealer, motorcycle repair shop or brake specialist.

Considerable money can be saved by removing the caliper yourself and taking it in for repair.

BRAKES

221 6. Remove the arm from the caliper assembly.

Withdraw the parking brake cable (C, Figure 53) from the receptacle o n the parking brake housing.

7. Place a container under the brake line at the caliper. Remove the union bolt and sealing washers (0, Figure 53) securing the brake line to the caliper assembly. Remove the brake line and let the brake fluid drain out into the container.

Dispose of this brake fluid-never reuse brake fluid . To prevent the entry of moisture and dirt, cap the end of the brake line and tie the loose end up to the frame.

8. Remove the bolts Stturing the caliper assembly to the swing arm (E, Figure 53). Push on the caliper wh ile loosening the bolts to push the piston back into the caliper.

9. Remove the caliper assembly.

10. I nstall by reve rsing these removal steps, noting the following.

11. Carefully install the caliper assembly onto the disc. Be careful not to damage the leading edges of the pads during installation.

12. Tighten the caliper moun ting bolts to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

13. Install the brake hose. with a sealing washer on each side of the fitting, onto the cal iper. Install the union bolt and tighten to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

14. Insert the parking brake cable into the receptacle in the parking brake ho using.

15. [nstall the parking brake arm onto the cal iper assembly and install the adjusting bolt and locknut.

Temporarily tighten the locknut.

16. Install the spring as shown in Figure 54.

17. Shin the transmission into NEUTRAL 18. Spin the rear wheels and activate the brake pedal as many times as it takes to refill the cylinder in th e caliper and correctly locate the pads.

ÂŽ

REAR CALIPER

Remo\'allI nstallalion Refer to Figure 30 for Ihis procedure.

CAUTION Do not spill ally brake fluid on (he paimed pOr/ion of Ihe swing afm or axle bearing housing. Wash any spilled brake fluid Immediately. as it will destroy Ihe fimsh. Use soapy water and rinse completely.

J. Place the ATV on level ground. Block the front wheel 50 the ATV will not roll in either direction.

2. Place wood block(s) under the skid plate to support the ATV with the rear wheels off the ground.

3. Remove the seat and rear fender assembly

35

WARNING Use brake fluid from a sealed container marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 only (specified for disc brakes). Other t}'/Jl'S may vapori=e and cause brake failure.

Do nOI intermix diifrrem brands or 1}pl'S as they may nOI be compatible.

Do not intermix a silicone based (DOT 5) brake fluid as it call cause brake component damage leading to brake S)'Slem failure.

described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Using a pair of needtenose pliers, remove the spring (A, Figure 53) from the arm.

S. Loosen the parking brake adjusting bolt locknut and remove the adjusting bolt and locknut (8 , Figure 53).

19. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to maintain the correct fluid level. Install the diaphragm and lOp eap.

20. Adjust the parking brake as described in Chapter Three.

222

CHAPTER TEN

21. Bleed the brake as described in Ihi s chapler.

WARNING Do not ride Ihe ATV Unlit you are SUfe

lhat the brakt's a" opera/ing properly.

Caliper Rebuilding

(fthe caliper leaks, the caliper should be rebui lt.

If the piston sticks in the cylinder, indicating severe wear or galling, the entire unit should be replaced. Rebuilding a leaky caliper requires special tools and experience.

Caliper service should be entrusted to a dealer. motorcycle repair shop or brake specialist.

Considerable money can be saved by removing the caliper yourself and laking it in for repair.

if the thickness, in any area, is worn to the service limit (or less) listed in Table I. 2. Clean the disc of any rust or corrosion and wipe etean with lacquer thinner. Never use an oil·based solvent that may leave an oil residue on the disc.

3. To replace the brake disc, perform the following: a. Remove the bolts (Figure 57) securing the brake disc to the fronl hub. b. Install the brake disc OniO the front hub. c. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the bolts and install the bolts. d. Tighten the bolts to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

FRONT BRAKIi: DISC Removal/ lnShlllalio n

I. Remove the front wheels as described in Chapter Eight.

NOTE Place a puxe of YI'OOd or \'inyltube In each caliper in place of the disc. This way. if the brake lever is madl'ertently Sqlll¥.':ed, the pislOn will not be forced OUI o/the c}'linder. I/this does happen. the caliper might hal'e to be disassembled to reseal the piston and the system will hai'e 10 be bled. By using the wood or l'in)'1 lube. bleeding Ihe system is not neassary when installing the wheel.

2. Remove the fronl caliper (A, Figure 55) as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the Caller pin and nut (B, Figure 55) seturing the front hub/ brake disc to the steering knuckle. Remove the front hub/ brake disc assembly.

4. Install by reversing these removal steps, noti ng the following.

5. Install the front hub/brake disc assembly and tighten the nut to the torque specification listed in Table 2. Install a new COlier pin and bend the ends over completely.

Brake Disc Inspection It is not necessary to remove the disc from the wheel to inspect it. Small marks on the disc are not imponanl, but deep radial scratches, deep enough to snag a fingernail, reduce braking effectiveness and increase brake pad wear. If these grooves are found. the disc should be replaced.

I. Measure the thickness of the disc at several locations around the disc with vernier calipers or a micrometer (FIgure 56). The disc must be replaced

®

I

BRAKES

223 REAR BRAKE DISC

Remo\'al I. Place the A TV on Ic\'el ground and set the parking brake.

2. Place wood block(s) under the skid plate 10 support the ATV with the rear wheels off the ground.

3. Remove the seal and rea r render assembly as described in Chapter Eleven.

4. Rem ove the right-hand rear wheel as d escribed in C hapter Nine.

NOTE

Place Q piece of 1l.'OOd or \'lIIy/lllbe In the mitper in place of Ihe disc. This lI'ay.

if Ihe brake 1('I'er IS

Inadw.'rIelllly

sqllee=ed, the pis/on will nOi be forced OUi of the qlinder. If this does happen.

Ihe caliper mighl have 10 be dIsassembled /0 reseat the piston and Ike S)'SIl'nI will hare 10 be bled. By IIsing the wood or I'ill),/ lube. bleeding the system is

/lOt

necessary when inslalllllg

Ihe whee/.

5. Place a wood block under th e swi ng arm to support il in the up posi tion.

6. Remove the cotter pin and hub nut (Figure 58) securing the right.ha nd rear hub. Remove the washer and the hub.

7. Make sure the parking brake is appl ied.

NOTE special flame (UI ",rend, (Figure 59) is ara/fable frolll a 1II000rcycle dealer.

Rock)' or OIher 111011 order houses.

A

8. Use an special wrench, an open end wrench, or large adjustable wrench to loosen the locknut (A. Figure 60) on the axle. II may be necessary to lap on the end of the wrench with a soft-faced mallei 10 break Ihe locknut loose. Remo\'e the locknut.

~----"''''

C."UTION The focknlll and IIIner nllt hal'e had Loclile applied dllrlllg assemhl.v and are lightened to 160·200 N. 11/ (115-/44 jt .• lb.). II is I'err hard 10 re/1/OI'e e\'en ...../Ih Ihe correct Sl=e rool alld a /01 offorce. Do not apply heal /0 the area /1/ order to IfJ' to loosen IIIf' locknut and illnN 1/11/ as IIIIS will ruin the heat-treated hardlless of the axle.

9. Usc a specia l wrench . an open end wrench. or large adjustable wrench to loosen the inner nut ( B, Figure 60) on the axle. It may be necessary 10 tap on the end of the wrench with a soft·fa ced mallet to break the locknut loose. Remove the locknut.

10. If you are unable to loosen the locknut or inner nut. they Will have to be ch iseled orr. Do no t chisel all the way through into the threads on the axle.

11. Remove the bolts (Figure 61 ) securi ng the brake disc 10 the mounting ftan ge on the axle.

Remove the brake disc and the spacer from the axle.

Installat ion l. Install Ihe brake disc onlO the rear axle.

J

CHAPTER TEN

224 2. Apply blue Loctite (Lock N° Seal No. 2114) to the brake disc bolt threads and tighten thc bolts (Figure 61 ) to Ihe torque specification listed In Table 2.

3. Install Ihe disc brake caliper assembly as described in Chapter Ten. 4. Install the spacer.

5. Apply blue Loctite (lock N' Seal No. 2114) to the threads orlhe axle inner nut and \0 the locknut.

NOTE

In the /ollowmg steps, use the same tools used during the remOI'af sequence.

6. Install the axle inner nut and tighten 10 the torque specification listed in Table 2.

7. Install thc axle lock nUl, hold Ihc inner nul and lighten axle lock nut to thc torque specification listed in Table 2.

8. Install Ihe right-hand hub, washer and hub nut (Figure 58), Tighten thc hub nut to thc torque specification listed in Table 2.

9. Install new cotler pins and bend the ends completely. Never reuse an old colter pin.

10. Install the right-hand rear wheel as described in Chapter Nme. I t. Install the seat and the rear fender.

Brake Disc Inspection

It is not necessary to remO,'e the disc from the wheel 10 inspect it. Small marks on the disc are nOI importanl. but deep radial scratches. deep enough 10 snag a fingernail , reduce braking effectiveness and increase brake pad wear. If these grooves are found. the disc should be replaced.

I. Measure the thickness of the disc al several locations round the disc with vernier calipers or a micrometer (Figure 62). The disc must be replaced if the thickness. in any area, is worn to the service lim it (or less) listed in Table I .

2. Clean the disc of any rus t or corrosion and wipe clean with lacquer thinner. Never use an oil-based solvent that may leave an oil residue on the disc.

FRONT BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT (DRUM AND DISC BRAKE MODELS) There is no factory-recommended replacement interval but it is a good idea to replace the flexible brake hoses every four years or when they show signs of cracking or damage.

This procedure covers both drum and disc brake models since there is only a slight difference in the hose layout.

Refer to Figure 42 for disc brakes or Figure 43 for drum brakes for this procedure.

CAUTION

COI-er lhe fronl wheel. fender and fuel lank wilh a heal'Y clolh or plUSIIC tarp to protect it from ace/denial spilling of brake flU/d. Wash any brake flwd offof any paimed or plaud surface immediately. as it will destroy the fimsh. USE' soapy wall?r and rinsE' completely.

I. Place the A TV on level ground and set the parking brake.

BRAKES

ÂŽ

225 2. Remove both front wheels as described in Chapter Nine.

3A. On drum brake models. perform the

foll owing: a. Place a container under the brake line at the steering knuckle. b. Using an open end wrench, hold onto the fitting on the lower fl ex ible brake hose (Figure 63) and completely unscrew the fin ing on the oUler metal brake line. c. Remove the E.clip and remove the lower fl exible brake hose from the bracket on the steering knuckle. d. Let the brake flu id drain oul into the container. Dispose of this brake fluid-never reuse brake fluid.

c. To prcvenllhe entry of moisture and din, cap the outer melal brake tine with a golf lee.

NOTE Figure 64 is shOll'n with the steering knuckle remol'ed for clarity. II is nOI necessary /0 remcl'e the sleering knuckle for this procedure.

r.

ÂŽ

Using an open end wrench, hold o nto the filling on the lower flex ible brake hose (Figure 64) and completely unscrew the fitt ing on the inner metal brake line. &. Remove the E-clip a nd remove the lower flexible brake hose from the bracket on the frame. h. Repeat Step 3A a-g fo r the other lower fl exible brake hose. i. Remove the bolts and clam p (A. Figure 65) sceuring the upper flex ible brake hose to the frame. j. Remove the union bolt and sealing washers (8 , Figure 65) Stturing the upper flexible brake hose to the 3-way joint. k. Pull back the rubber boot (A, Figure 66) and re move the union bolt and sealing washers (D, Figure 66) securing the upper flexible brake hose to the master cylinder and remove the hose. ] D, On disc brake models, perform the following: a. Place a container under the brake line at the cal iper. b. Remove the union bolt and sealing washers (Figure 67) Stturing the lower flexible brake hose to the caliper assembly. c. Remove the brake hose and let the brake fluid drain out into the container. Dispose of this brake flu id -never reuse brake fluid .

CHAPTER TEN

226 d. To prevent the entry of moisture and din, cap the caliper assembly where the brake line attaches.

WARNING Dispose of this brake Jluid-"(!~'er rellse brake jlliid. Contaminated brake fluid

can cause brake failure, c. Remove the boll and clamp (A, Figure 68) securing the lower flexib le brake hose to the upper wishbone. f. Using an open end wrench, hold onto the fitting on the lower flexib le brake hose and completely unscrew Ihe fitting on the metal brake line (8. Figure 68). g. Remove the cli p securing the lower flexible

brake hose \0 the frame and remove the flexible brake hose. h. Repeat Slep 38 a-g for the other lower flexible brake hose. i. Remove Ihe union bolt and sealing washers (Figure 69) Stturing the upper flexible brake hose to the 3-W3Y joint. j. Pull back the rubber boot (A, Figur~ 66) and remove the union bolt and sealing washers (8.

Figure 66) securing Ihe upper flexible brake hose to the master cylinder and remove the hose.

4. Install new flexible brake hoses, sealing washers and union bolls in the reverse order of removal. Be sure 10 install new sealing washers in the correct positions; refer 10 Figure 43 for drum brakes or Figure 42 for disc brake models.

5. Tighten all union bolts and fittings on the metal brake li nes to the torque specification lisled in Table 2.

WARNING Use brakl' fluid from a seall'd cOnlainer marked DOT 1 or DOT 4 only (sJ){'Cified for disc brakes). Other rypes may vaporize and cause brake failure.

Do not inlermix differenl brands or rypes as rhey may not be compatible.

Do nor intermix a sIlicone based (DOT 5) brake fluid as il can cause brake componem damage leading to brake system failu re.

6. Refill the master cylinder wi th fresh brake fluid marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 only. Bleed the brake as described in this chapter.

WARNING Do not ride the ATV IIntil you are sure Ihat tlte brakes are operating proper!),.

REAR BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT

There is no factory-recommended replacement inlerval but it is a good idea 10 replace all brake hoses every four years or when they show signs of cracking or damage.

Refer to Figure 49 for this procedure.

CAUTION COI'er the swing arm and axle bearing hOllsing wilh a heary c/oth or plastic tarp to protect It from accidellfal spilling of brake f illid. Wash any brake fluid offofany patnted or plated surface immediately, as il will destro)' the finish. Use soapy water and rinse complete/y.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and rear fender assembly as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Place a wood block under the swing arm to support it in the up position.

4. Remove both rear wheels as described in Chapter Nine.

S. Place a container under the brake line at the caliper. Remove the union boll and sealing

BRAKES

227

ÂŽ

8. Pry open Ihc clips (B, Figure 70) securing Ihe flexible brake hose to Ihc swing arm and remove the hose from the frame.

9. Install a new flexible brake hose, seal ing washers and union boilS in the reverse order of removal. Be sure \0 install new sealing washers on each side of the union bolts.

10. Tighten all union bolls to the torque specification listed in Table 2.

WARNING

Use brake fluid from a sealed container marked DOT J or DOT 4 only (sprcjfied jar disc brakes). Other types ma), mpori=e and calise brake jailllre.

Do 1101 intermix dUrerent brands or /J'pes as they may /lot be compatible.

1)0 riOt imermix a siliCOlle based (DOT 5) brake Jluid as it call cause brake COII/pallem damage /eadmg to brake srstem jmlure.

II. Refill the master cylinder wi th fresh brake fluid marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 on ly. Bleed the brake as described in this chapter.

WAR NI Nr,

Do lIot ride the ATV IImil)'Oll are sure Iha! the brakes arE' opera!illg properly.

12. Install the rear wheels, rear fender and scat.

8LEEDrNG THE SYSTEM

This procedure is nOI necessary unless the brakes feel spongy, Ihere has been a leak in the system. a componen t has been replaced or the brake fluid has been replaced.

This procedure penains to both drum and disc brakes and to the front and rear brake systems.

Drab Blt'eder Process

washers (A. Figure 70) securing the flexible brake line 10 the caliper assembly.

6. Remove the brake line and lei the brake fluid drain OU I into the container. Dispose of this brake flUId-never reuse brake fluid . To prevent Ihc entry of moisture and dirt. cap the brake hose opening in Ihe cahpcr.

This procedure uses a brake bleeder that is available from motorcycle or automotive supply stores or from mail order outlets.

I. Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the back of the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or caliper assembly (disc brakes).

2. Connttt the bleed hose (FiJture 72) orthe brake bleeder to the bleed valve on the back of the wheel cyli nder (drum brake) or the caliper assembly (disc brake).

II:-iR ,\'ING

Dispose of this brok.e Jluid- nl'l'er rellse brake fluid. COli/aminated brake flUid can cause brakt'lmllue.

7. Remove the union bolt and sealing washers securing the ftclIible brake hose (Figure 71) to the maSler cylinder and remove Ihe hose.

C.ofLTION

the front wishbollE' or the sll'ing arm area wilh a heal')' c/oth or plastic tarp to protect it /rom the accidential spllll flg ojbrake fluid. IVash any brake fluid o.d'ojany pail/ted or plated surface immediately; as it will destroy the COI'(>r

CHAPTER TEN

118 fin ish. Use soapy waler and rinse completely.

3. Clean the lOP of the master r ylinder (Figure 73) of all din and foreign matter.

4. Remove the screws securing the reservoir top and remove the reservoir lOP and diaphragm.

5. Fi11lhe reservoir almost to the lOP lip; insert the diaphragm and the top loosely. Leave the top in place during this procedure to prevent the entry of dirt.

WARNING

Use brake fluid f rom a sealed container marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 only (specifi ed fo r disc brakes), Other types may \'oporize and cause brake / ailure.

Do not intermix different brands or l)'peS as they may not be compatible.

Do not intermix a silicone based (DOT j ) brake fluid as il can cause brake component damage leading to brake system failure.

6. Open the bleed valve about one-half lum and pump the brake bleeder (figure 74).

NOTE If air is entering the brak.e bleeder hose from around the bleed I'alve, apply sel'erallayers of Teflon tape to the bleed I·ab'e. This should make a good seal between the bleed I'ab'e and the brake bleeder hose.

13. Test the feel of the brake lever or pedal. It should be firm and should offer the same resistance each time it's operated. If it feels spongy. it is likely that there is still air in the system and it must be bled again, When all air has been bled from the system and the fluid level is correct in the reservoir, d ouble·check for leaks and tighten all fittings and connections.

WARNING Before riding the ATV. mak.e certain that the brakes are operating correctly by operating the In'er or pedal sn'eral times.

14. Test ride the ATV slowly al first to make sure that the brakes are operating properly.

Without a Brake Bleeder I. Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the back of the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or caliper assembl y (disc brakes), 2. Connect a length of clear tubing to the bleed valve (Figure 75) on the back of the wheel cylinder or caliper assembly.

3. Place the other end of the lube into a clean container. Fill the container with enough fresh brake fluid to keep the end submerged. The tube

®

7. As the fluid enters the system and exi ts into the brake bleeder. the level will drop in the reservoir.

Maintain the level at about J/8 inch from the top of the reservoir to prevent air from being drawn in to the system.

8. Continue to pump the lever on the brake bleeder until the fluid emerging from the hose is completely free of bubbles. At this point, tighten the bleed valve.

NOTE Do not allow the resen'oir 10 empty during the bleeding operation or more air will enter the system. If this occurs, the entire procedure must be repeated.

9. When the brake fluid is free of bubbles, tighten the bleed valve, remove the brake bleeder tube and install the bleed valve dust ca p.

10. On the front brakes, repeat Steps 1·9 for the other wheel's brake assembly.

I I. If n~sary, add flu id to correct the level in the reservoir, It should be to the upper level line.

12. Install the reservoir top and tighten the screws securely.

®

BRAKES should be long enough so that a loop can be made

higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from being drawn inlo the caliper during bleeding.

CAUTION Corer the from wishbone Or Ihe swing arm area Wilh a heol'Y cloth or plastic torp to protect it from the accidential spilling a/brake fluid. Wash any brake

fluid offofany paimed or plated surface immediately. as il will deslroy the finish. Use soapy water and rinse completely.

4. Oean the top of the master cylinder (Figure 73)

of all dirt and foreign matter.

5. Remove the screws securing the reservoir lOp

and remove the reservoir top and diaphrgm .

6. Fill the reservoir almost to the lOp li p: insert the diaphragm and the top loosely. Leave the tOp in place during this procedure to prevent the entry of din.

WARNING Use brake jlliid from a sealed conlainer marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 only {specified for disc brakes}. Other t)'/>l!S may wlporiu and cause brake fai/llfe.

Do not intermix different brands or types as they may nat be compatible.

Do not i11lermix a silicone based (DOT 5) brake fluid as it can cause brake component damage leading to brake system failure.

229 7. Slowly apply the brake lever or pedal several times as folloM : a. Pull the lever in or push the pedal down.

Hold the lever or pedal in the applied position . b. Open the bleed valve about one-half tum .

Allow the lever or pedal to travel to its limit. c. When this limit is reached, tighten the bleed screw.

8. As the fluid enters the system. the level will drop in the reservoir. Maintain the level at about 318 inch from the top of the reservoir to prevent ai r from being drawn in to the system.

9. Continue to pump the lever or pedal and fill the reservoir until the fluid emerging from the hose is completely free of bubbles.

NOTE Do not allow Ihe reserl'oir ta empty during the bleeding operarioll or more air lI'i/l enter the s)'stem. If thIS occurs. the entire procedure must be repeated.

10. Hold the lever or pedal down, tighten the bleed valve. remove the bleed tube and install the bleed valve dust cap.

II . On the front brakes, repeat Steps 1-9 for the other wheel's bmke assembly.

12. If neeesary, add fluid to correct the level in the reservoir. It should be \0 the upper level line.

13. Inslall the reservoir top and tighten the screws securely.

14. Test the feel of the bmke lever or pedal. It should be finn and should olfer the same resistance . each time it's operated. If it feels spongy, it is likely that there is still air in the system and it must be bled again. When all air has been bled from the system and the fluid level is correct in the reservoir, double-check for leaks and tighten all fiuings and connections.

WARNING Before riding the ATV. make certain that the brakes are operatmg correclly by operatmg the lel'er or pedal m 'eral tIInes.

I S. Test ride the ATV slowly at first to make sure that the brakes are opemt ing properly.

REAR DISC BRAKE P EDAL

Removal I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and rear fender assembly as described in Chapter Eleven.

3. Remove the bolts (Figure 76) securing the right-hand footpeg bmcket and remove the footpcg assembly.

â&#x20AC;˘

CHAPTER TEN

230 4. Using Vise Grip pliers, unhook the return spring (A, Figure 77) from the brake pedal.

S. Remove the cotter pin, washer and pivot pin (B, Figure 77) securing the brake rod \0 the brake pedal. Discard the cotler pin.

6. Slide the brake arm (e, Figure 77) olfthe pivot shaft on the frame and remove the brake arm.

7. Install by reversing these removal steps, nOling the following.

8. Apply grease to the pivot shaft on the frame prior to installing the brake pedal.

9. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely. Never reuse an old coltcr pin.

10. Adjust the rear brake height as described In Chapter Three.

Table 1 BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS

Drum Irak•• Mode'

New

Service limit

Brake drum 1.0.

Front

-

142.7 mm (5.82 In.) 150.1 mm (5.93 In.)

-

1.5 mm (0.011 In.)

12.700-12.743 mm (0.5000-0.5017 In.) 12.657-12.884 mm (0.4983-0.4994 in.)

-

Rear Brake shoe lining Front and r •• r Front muter cylinder Cylinder bore I.D. Pilton O.D.

DI.c .rak•• U.m Front Disc Thickness (front end reer) Runout Breke ped thickness (Iront end reer) Muter cylinder (ftont Ind reer) Cylinder bore 1.0.

PI,ton O.D. Front breke Clliper Cylinder bore 1.0.

Pilton O.D. Reer breke celiper Cylinder bote i.D. Piston 0 .0.

'p.clnc.tlon.

3.3-3.7 mm (0.130-0.148 in.)

-

W•• , limit

3.0 mm (0.12 in.)

0.30 mm (0.012 in.)

1.0 mm (0.04 In.)

12.700-12.743 mm (0.5000-0.5017 in.)

12.857-12.884 mm (0.4983-0.4994 in.)

-

30.23-30.283 mm (1 .190-1.192 In.) 30.1 87-30.200 mm (1.1877-1.1890 in.)

-

33,98-34.01 mm (1.337-1 ,339 in.)

33.878-33.928 mm (1 ,3338-1.3357 in.)

-

-

BRAKES

231 Table 2 BRAKE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Item

......

H.-lb •

Drum B,ak ••

Whe.' cylinder bolt

,.,

Brake shoe anchor Brllke backing plale bolts

15·22 18·28

Metal brake line fittings Re.r brake arm clamping bolt and nut

13-18 8·13

5·'

11·16 13-20

9·13

,.,

Dilc 8rak •• Front ma.ler cylinder clamping bolts Front brake caliper

mounting bolt.

Front brake dilc-to-hub bolta Re.r brake Torque link bolt

Caliper mounting boltl Brake pad mounting bolts

Re.r disc mounting bolta Metal brake line ffttings R••, ..Ie Inner nut and locknut Union bolt.

5·'

3.5-6

15-25 15-25

11-18 11·18

44·66 15·25 15·20 lS-25 13-18 ,00·160 20·25

32·48 11·18 11-15

",'8

9·13

115·145 18·18

CHAPTER ELEVEN

BODY

This chapter contains removal and installation procedures for body panels, front and rear hand gri ps and carry racks.

FRONT FENDER (SHAFT.DRIVEN MODELS)

FRONT FENDER

Removal/ Installation (Shart..driven Models) Refer to Figure I for this procedure.

1. Remove the rear fender 35 described in this chapter.

2. On models so equipped, remove the front carrier as described in this chapter.

3A. On LT230GE models. loosen the set screws on the choke knob and the reverse knob (A. Figure 2). Remove both knobs.

3B. On LT-F230 models, loosen the sct screws on the subtransmission knob and the reverse knob.

Remove both knobs.

4. Remove the screws securing the odometer trim panel (D. Figure 2) and rem ove the brace at the rear of the trim panel. II is not necessary to remove the trim panel.

5. Remove the bolts (e, Figure 2) securing the rear of the fender to the frame.

6. Remove the bolts, washers and spacers (Figure 3) securing the. front of the fender to the frame.

7. Remove the bolts securing the fender braces to the frame .

8. Pull the front fende r toward the front and off the frame.

9. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

1. Bolt

2. Wa aher 3. Specer 4. Emblem 5. Front lender 6. Cable protector 7. Bolt 8. Brae.

9. lockwuher 10. Emblem 11. Mud guard 12. Clamp 13. Fender brace (left-hand aide, 14. Fender brace (right¡hand aide) 15. Nut

BODY

233 10. He sure \0 install the spacers on the fronl bolts.

If not used. the plastic fend er may fracture in the area of the bolt hole.

II. Tighten all screws and bolts securely. Do not overtighten as the plastic fender may fracture .

Remo\'ai/ installation (Chain-driven Models) Refer 10 Figu re 4 for Ihis procedure.

I. Remove the rear fender as described in this

chapter.

2. On models so equipped. remove the front carrier as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the screws, lockwashers and washers securing the front trim panel (A, Figure 5) and remove the Irim panel.

4. Di sconnect the breather hose from the fuel filler cap (8, Figure 5).

5. Remove the bolts, lockwashers and washers (f'igure 6) securing the front of the fcnder to the frame .

6. Rcmove thc bolts. lockwashers and washers (A. Figure 7) securing the rear of the fendcr and the seat bracket to the fram e. Remove the scat bracket.

7. Remove the bolts, washers and nuts (B. Figure 7) securing thc rear of the fender to the fender bracc.

CD

FRONT FENDER (CHAIN.DRIVEN MODELS)

t!

II 11 8. Bolt 9. Tlnnennan nut 3. Wuher

10. Fender brace

4. Spacer

1'. Spacer

5. Front lender

12. Emblem 13. Mud guard 14. Nut

B. Bolt 1. Spacer

234

CHAPTER ELEVEN

8. Pull the front fender toward the front and off the

frame.

9. Install by reversing these re moval steps, noting the following.

10. Tighten all screws and bolts securely. Do not o\'crtighten as the plastic fender may fracture.

REAR FENDER Removal/ Installatio n (Shafl-driven Models) Refer 10 Figure 8 for this procedure.

J. Remove the seat.

2. On models so equipped. remove the rear carrier as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the bolt. washers and nuts securing the fender to the fender fron t brace.

4. Remove the bollS, lockwashers and washers (A, Figure 9) securing the front of the fender to the

4. Remove the top bolts, lockwashers, washers and spacer (Figure 12) securing the fender to the frame.

5. Pull the rear fende r straight up and off the frame .

6. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following.

7. Be sure to install the spacers on the top bolts. If the spacers are not used, the plastic fende r may fracture in the a rea of the bolt holes.

8. Tighten all serews and boils securely. Do not ovenighlen as the plastic fender may fracture.

FRONT HAND GRIP Removal/Installation (All Models) Refer to F igure 13 for shaft-driven models or Figure 14 for chain-driven models.

frame.

S. Remove the bolts, lockwashers and washers (B, Figure 9) securing the seat mounting bracket and rcar portion of the fender to the frame.

6. Pull the front fender straight up and off the

CD

REAR FENDER ISHAFT¡DRIVEN MODELS, 1 2 3 5

~

~ ~ / '~ /;/ " / ~1 , -r- ~ fIn"

frame.

7. Install by reversing these removal StCpS, noting the following.

8. Tighten all screws and bolts securely. Do not ovenighten as the plastic fender ma y fracture.

\

Remo1'al/lnstallation (Chai n-driven Models) Refer to Figure 10 for this procedure.

I. Remove the seat.

2. On models so equipped, remove the rear carrier as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the bolts (FIgure II ) securing the fender and fender brace to the frame. On the right-hand side these bolts also hold the rear brake master cylinder to the frame.

1. R.ar lander Bolt Lock.alher Wal her Mud guard Walher Bolt a. Spicer

2.

3.

4.

5.

8.

7.

41

1â&#x20AC;˘

9. Rubber cUlhion 10. Fender front brace 11 . Rubber plug

12. Fender reer brIce

BODY

235

REAR FENDER (CHAIN-DRIVEN MODELS) ,. Bolt 2. Lockwuher

3. W.,her

8. Fender Iront brace (Ieft-halld aide)

IA. On shaft-drive models, perform the following: a. Remove the front fe nder assembly as described in this chapter. b. Remove the bolts (Figure I S) securing the lower portion of the front hand grip to the frame. c. Remove the bolls and nuts (FiKure 16) securing the upper portion o f the fron t hand gri p to the frame . d. Pull the fron t hand grip forwa rd and remove it from the fram e.

18. On chain-driven models. perform the following: a. Remove the front fender assembly as described in this chapter. b. Remove the bolts and nuts (Figure 17) securing the upper and lower portion o f the rront hand grip to the rrame. c. Pull the fro nt hand grip rorward and remove it rrom the rrame.

2. Install by reversing these removal steps. noting the rollowing.

3. Tighten all bolts and nuts securely.

9. Bolt

4. Rear fender

10. Fender reInforcement

5. Spacer

11 . Boll

6. Rubber plug

12. Rubber cushion

FRONT HAND GRIP (SHAFT-DRIVEN MODELS) 1

7. Fender front brace 13. Fender re.r braclI (right-hand side) (right- and left·hand side)

1. Front hand gri

2. Bott 3. Nut

7. Bott

®

: : :t§!fJ

FRONT HAND GRIP (CHAINDRIVEN MODELS) 1. Strap

2.

3.

4.

5.

Cover Front hand grip Botl Spacer

6. Nut

II

CHAPTER ELEVEN

Z36 REAR HA ND G RIP

Remofs II I nSlallation (All M odels ElI:cepl LT-F230)

Refer to Figure 18 for shaft-driven models or Figure 19 for chain-driven models.

IA. On

shafi-driven

models,

perform

the

following: a. Remove the rear fen der assembly as described in this chapter. b. Remove the bolts (A, Figure 20) securing the front ponioo of the rear hand grip to the frame. c. Remove the bolts and nuts (8. Figure 20) securing the rear ponion of the rear hand grip to the frame. d. Pull the rear hand grip (C, Figure 20) to the rear and remove il from the frame.

18. On chain-driven following:

models,

perform

the

a. Remove the rear fende r assembly as described in this chapter. b. Remove the bolts (A, figure 21) securing the front panion of the rear hand grip to the frame. The bolt on the righI-hand side also holds the muffier to the rrame. c. Remove the boils and nuts (8, Figure 21) securing the rear portion of the rea r hand grip to the rrame. d. Puil the rea r hand grip (C, Figure 21 ) to the rear and remove it rrom the frame.

2. Instail by reversing these removal steps. noting the rollowing.

3. Tighten all boils and nuts securely.

FRO NT AN D REAR CARRI ERS (SHAFT¡DRIVEN MODELS) RemovaVlnstallation Rerer to Figure 22 through Figure 24 fo r this procedure.

Removal and installation are basically the same for all carriers. Rerer to the exploded view drawings for the location of lockwashers, washers, bolts and nuts and any spacers used to attach the carriers to the rrame.

NOIhing has to be removed prior to removing the carriers.

Tighten all bollS and nuts securely.

237

BODY

® , . Rear grip

2. Bolt 3. Nut

FRONT CARRIER (SHAFT· DRIVEN MODELS)

@

ptMFilA 1

4. Bolt

REAR GRIP (SHAFT. DRIVEN MODELS)

®

REAR GRIP (CHAIN· DRIVEN MODELS)

2

~~!M~~~k:

L-;

1. Sub·carrier

~

2. Pan 3. Band 4. Front carrier

5. Bolt 1. Rear grip

2. Nut 3. Bolt

6. Walher 7. NU1 8. Wa.her

9. Nul

@

REAR CARRIER (SHAFT· DRIVEN MODELS)

•

.

5

1.

2.

3.

4.

Hand grip Rear carrier Bolt Strut

5. Bolt 6. Nut

7. Nut 8. Spacer 9. Bolt 10. Bolt

CHAPTER ELEVEN

238

®

REAR CARRIER (SHAFT·DRIVEN MODELS WITH SUBTRANSMISSIONJ

13

, ~1.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

TOOl box ... . mbly Rubber cUlhlon

Botl Lockwaaher W. .her

e. Pllte 7. Tool box cap

e. Bolt

9. Emblem

10. R•• r carlier

'1 , Strut 12. Strut 13. Sub·c.m.r 14. Nut 15. Nut

SUPPLEMENT

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION

This chapter contains all procedures and specifications unique to the 1987 and later models. If a service procedure is nOI included for the LT250S. refer to the LT230S (sometimes referred to as chain-driven) procedures in prior chapters.

The headings in this supplement correspond to those in the chapters of this book.

Table 1 and Table 2 are located within this supplement.

240

SUPPLEM ENT

CHAP'TER TIiREE

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE·UP

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Drive Chain Adjustment (Chaln·driven Models) The dri ve chain should be checked 01 every fuel stop or at the beginning of each riding day. C lean,

lubricate and adjust the drive chain at the inlervaJ indicated in Table 1 in Chapter Three in the main body. A property lubricated and adjusted drive chain will provide maximum service life and reliability.

The correci amount of drive chain free play, when pushed up midwayan the lower run is 45·55 mm ( 1.8-2.2 in.). See Figure 1.

1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Shifllhe transmission into NEUTRAL.

3. Loosen the nuts (A, Figure 2) securing the rear axle housing to the swing ann.

4. Loosen the dri ve chain adjus ter locknuts (B, Figure 2).

5. Tum the drive chain adjusters (C. Figure 2) in eitherdireclion to achieve the correct amOUfli of free play.

6. Release the parking brake and push the ATV forward to move the chain to another position and recheck the adjustment; chains rarely wear or stretch evenly and, as a result, the free play will not remain constan t over the entire chain.

7. If the drive chain cannot be adjusted to withi n these limits. it is excessively worn and stretched and

I

should be replaced as described in Chapter Nine in the main body. Refer to Swing Arm and Shock Ab· sorber Remo\'olll nstallation procedure in Chapter Nilein this supplement. Always replace both sprock· elS when replacing the drive chain; never install a new chain over worn sprockets.

WARNING Excessive free play can result in chain breakage which could cause a serious accidellf .

8. Set the parking brake.

9. After the correct free play has been achieved, tighten the following:

24 1

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFO RMATION a. Rear axle housing bolts: 85-120 N.m (61.587.0 ft.-lb.). b. Drive chain adjuster locknuts: 18-28 N. m (13-

20 ft.-lb.).

) . Release the parking brake at the hand lever.

2. AI the rear brake caliper assembly. loosen the locknut (A, F igu re 3).

10. After the drive chain has been correctly adjusted. the rear brake pedal free play must be adjusted as described in Chapter Three in the main body.

NOTE Loosen the locknut sufficiently so the lockn ut will not touch the caliper mounting bracket during Step 3. If the locknut touches the mounting bracket it wiff gi\'e a false resistance reading and the adjustment will be incorrect.

NOTE If the side plates of the drive chain are very dirty and cQvued with sand and grit. the chain should be removed and

cleaned as described in Chapter Nine in the main body.

3. Screw the adjuster boh (B. Figu re 3) in until resistance is felt . SlOp. then loosen it 1/2 tum.

) I. Thoroughly lubricate the drive chain with SAE 80-90 gear oil or a good grade of chain lubricant (specifically fonnulated for O-ring chains). follow-

Tighten the locknut securely.

ing the manufacturer's instructions.

T UNE-UP

Parking Brake Adjustment

Spa rk Plug Selection

(Disc Brake Models)

(LT2S0S Models)

Apply the parking brake and push the ATV in either direction. The vehicle should not move. If it does move, adjust the parking brake as follows.

The factory recommended spark plug and heat range is the NGK DP7EA-9 or NO X22EP·U9. The recommended gap is 0.8-0.9 mm (0.031·0.035 in.).

CHAPTER FOUR

ENGINE

Ta ble 1 lists all engine specifications unique to the models covered in this supplement. If a specifi· cation is not listed, there are no changes from prior years.

111111 1

PISTON, PIST ON PIN AN D PISTON RI NGS

TOf>

Piston Ring Removall InspectionlInstallation

Il ilililililirn 2nd

Piston ring removal and inspection is the same as on previous years with the exception of the installation order.

Install the piston rings in the order shown in Figure 4.

I

242

SUPPLEMENT '-'bl. 1 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (LT250SJ*

Item Cylinder Bono

Specific_tiona

Wu, limit

68~.515mm

68.580 mm (2.700 In.) O.l20mm (0.0047 In.)

(2.6968-2.6974 In.) 0.050-0.060 mm (0.0020-0.0024 in.)

Platon/cyllnder clearance Piston

Dlametar

Piston pin bora Piston pin outar diameter Platon rings

Ring and gap Top and second Connecting rod Small end Innef diameter Camahaft Cam lobe height Inlake Exhaust

68.445-88.460 mm (2.6947-2.6953 In.) 17.002-17.008 mm (0.6694-0.6696 In.) 16.996-17.000 mm (0.6691-0.6693 In.)

(0.6705 In.) 16.980 mm (O.6685 In.)

0.20-0.40 mm (0.880-0.016 In.)

O.70mm (0.028 In.)

17.006-17.014 mm (0.6695-0.6698 In.)

17.040 mm (0.6709 In.)

34.17-34.21 mm (1.345-1.347 In.) 34.13-34.17 mm (1.344-1.34510.)

33.87 mm (1.333 In.) 33.83 mm (1.33210.)

68.380mm (2.6921 In.) 17.030mm

• Speclflcatlona not lilted In thiltabla .f.ldentlcal to those listed under Engine Speclflcallonsln Chapter Four In the meln body, Table 1.

CHAP1elAVE

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

TRANSMISSION AND INTERNAL SHiFf MECHANISM Transmission removal, installation, shaft disassembly and assembly are the same as on previous years with the exception of some components on the reverse idle gear shaft on LT250S models.

REVERSE IDLE GEAR SHAFT ILT25051

Reverse Idle Gear and Shaft Disassemblyflnspection

(LT2S0S Models)

2

3

4

Refer 10 Figure 5 for this procedure.

I. Slide off the thruSI washer and reverse idle gear from the end of the reverse idle gear shaft.

2. Slide off the reverse idle gear bUShing from the end of the reverse idle gear shaft.

1. Thrust washer 2. R.v ..... Idl. g.ar 3. Bushing 4. R.ver.. Idl. g•• r sh.ft

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION 3. Thoroughly clean all parts with a petroleum base solvent such as kerosene and a stiff brush. Dry with compressed air or lei sit on rags 10 drip dry.

4. Visually inspect the componenls for excessive wear. Any bUITS, pitting or roughness on the teeth of the gear will cause wear on the mating gear. Minor roughness can be cleaned up with an oilstone bUI there's little point in 3ncmpling to remove deep SCaB.

5. Make sure the bushing rotates smoothly both on the shaft and within the gear, replace if necessary.

243 Reverse Idle Gear and Shaft Assembly (LT250S Models) I. Coal all sliding pans with clean engine oil or assembly oi l prior to installation.

2. Slide the bushing on10 the reverse idle gear shaft.

3. Position the reverse idle gear with the long shoul-

der side going on

rlr'Sl

and install the reverse idle

gear onlO the bushing on the reverse idle gear shaft.

Rotate the gear on the bushing and make sure it rotates smoothly.

4. Installihe thrust washer OniO the reverse idle gear

shaft.

CHAPTER SIX

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

CARBURETOR SERV ICE

NOTE

Refer to Table 2 for LT250S model carburetor specifications.

Prior 10 remoring the top cap, thoroughly clean Ih~ area around it so no dirt wifl fall into Ihe carbilreior.

Disassemblyl Assembly

(LT250S Models) The disassembly and assembly procedure steps

are the same ason previous LT230S models with the exception of the disassembly and assembly of the throttle valve assembly.

Refer to Figure 6 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the parking brake.

2. Remove the seat and rear fender as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the fuel lank as described in Chapler Seven in the main body.

4. Disconnect the vent tube from the carburetor

body.

5. Unscrew the carburetor top cap (Figure 7) and pull the throttle valve assembly up and out of the carburetor.

6. To remove the throttle valve (Figure 8) from the thrOllle cable. perfonn the following: a. Rcmove the screw securing the jet needle stopper platc. b. Remove the jet needle stopper plate and lum the throttle valve upside down and remove the jet needle assembly from the throttle valve. c. Remove the spring and washer from the jet needle. d. Slide the ring ofT the lOp of the jct needle assembly. e. If the clip is going to be removed from the jet needle, record the present position so il will be reinstalled in the same position.

7. Assembly is lIle reverse of these disassembly sleps.

I

SUPPLEMENT

244

CARBURETOR (LT250S)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Seal Top cap O-ring Spring

Screw Jet needle . topper plate

7. Ring

8. Clip 9. Washer 10. Spring 11 . Jet needle 12. ThroHle slide

1

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMA nON

24S

Table 2 CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS (LT250I)

Itom Model No.

Mlkunl VM26SS 25COO 26mm

to No.

Bore alze Main jet No. Main elr let No.

"'

1.2mm

Jet needle

5HN31

Jet needle cUp position

3rd groove 0-3 17.5

Needle Jet Pilot Jet No. Starter jet No. Pilot SCr1lW opening

50

2 318 lums out 20.&-22.8 mm

Flo.It level

(0.82-0.90 In.) 1,400-1 ,600 rpm

CHAPTER SEVEN

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (LT2S0S MODELS)

COl Testing This test procedure measures the resistance val ues belween the various pins on the COl unit I n order

to achieve accurale measuremenlS the Suzuki Pocket Tester (part No. 09900-25002) must be used for this test procedure. The use of an ohmmeter will res ult in resisUlIlce values other than those shown in the illustmlion even on a good COl unit.

1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the scal and rear fender as described in this chapter.

3. Disconnect the multi-pin elecu"ical conneclOrs and individual connectors from the COl unit.

5. If any of the test results do not meet the specifications, then the COl is probably fau lty and must be replaced .

6. If the C Ol is okay, reinstallihe fo llowing components:

a. Reconnect the electrical conneclOrs onto the C Ol unit. b. Install the rear fender and seat.

..

SWITCHES Ignition Switch (LT2S0S Models)

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parKing brake.

4. Refer to Figure 9 and measure me resistance

2. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six in the main body.

values between each of the e lectrical connector terminals on me COl unit side of the electrical connectors.

3. Disconnect the 2 separate electrical connectors ( I blaCk/white and I black/yellow) from the ignition swi tch.

j

SUPPLEMENT

4. Use an ohmmeter set at R x 1 and connect the 2 test leads of the ohmmeter to the black/white and to the black/yellow connectors of the ignition switch and perfonn the fOllowing: a. Tum the ignition switch to the OFF position.

If the switch is good there will be contin uity (very low resistance).

b. Tum the ignition switch to the ON position. If the switch is good there will be no continuity (infinite resistance).

5. If the switch fails to pass either of these lesls. the swilch is faulty and must be replaced.

6. JnSlalithe fuel tank.

Lighting Switch

(LT230S) I . Place the ATV on level ground and sel the parking brake.

2. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six in the main body.

3. Disconnect the 4 separate electrical connectors (I white, I yellow, I green and J yellow/red) from the lighting switch.

4. Tum the lighting switch to the HJ position. Use an ohmmeter set at R x I and connect the 2 test leads of the ohmmeter to each of the following connectors of the lighting switch: a. Yellow/red and green. b. Yellow/red and white. c. Green and white.

If the switch is good there will be continuity (very low resistance).

5. Tum the lighting switch to the La position. Use an ohmmeter set at R x I and connect the 2 test leads of the ohmmeter to each of the following connectors of the lighting switch: a. Yellow/red and green.

G Probe H I ----'~+---"~-f__--"­ ollesler rIo:

1---"'_+==+--'-'=-+---'='---

00 :

WIRE COLOR

BI : Br : G: P: BIW : BIY : W/BI :

Blue Brown Green Pink

Black with white tl'lleer Black wllh Vanow Iracer White with blue Iracer

Inllnlte reslslanee

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION

247

b. Yellow/red and yellow. c. Green and yellow.

If the switch is good there will be continuity (very

of the ohmmeter to each afthe following connectors of the lighting switch: a. Yellow/red and green. b. Yellow/red and yellow.

low resistance).

6. Tum the ignition switch to the OFF position. If the switch is good there will be no continuity (infinile resistance) between any of the connectors.

7. If the switch fails to pass any of these tests, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.

8. Install the fuel tank.

Lighting Switch (LT250S) 1. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake, 2. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Six in the main body of this book.

3. Disconnect the 4 separate eleclrical connectors (I

c. Green and yellow. trthe switch is good there will be continuity (very low resistance).

5. Tum the lighting switch to the LO position. Use an ohmmeter set at R x 1 and connect the 2 test leads of the ohmmeter to each of the following connectors of the lighting switch: a. Yellow/red and green.

b . Yellow/red and white. c. Green and while.

If the switch is good there will be continuity (very low resistance).

6. Tum the ignition switch to the OFF position. If the swilCh is good there will be no continuity (infinite resistance) between any of the connectors.

while, t yellow, I green and 1 yellow!red) from the lighting switch.

4. Tum the lighting switch 10 the HI position. Use an

7. If the switch fail s to pass any of these tests, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.

ohmmeter set at R x 1 and connect the 2 test leads

8. Install the fuel tank.

CHAPTER NINE

REAR AXLE, SUSPENSION AND FINAL DRIVE

REAR AXLE AND DRIVEN SPROCKET (CHAIN DRIVEN MODELS) Removal Refer to Figure 16 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Shift the transmission into NElffRAL. 3. Remove the seal and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven in this supplement.

4. To relieve drive chain tension, perform the following: a. l...oosen the bolts and nuts (A, Figure 2) securing the rear axle housing to the swing ann.

h. Loosen the drive chain adjuster locknuts (8,

Figure 2). c. Tum the drive chain adjusters (C. Figure 2) oul to achieve the maximum amount of free play.

5. If the driven sprocket is going to be removed and replaced. loosen the driven s procket bolts and nuts at this time.

CAUTION

The locknut and inner nut have had a locking agent applied during assembly and are tightened to 160¡200 N.m (115144 ft.-lb.). They art very hard to remm'e el'en with the correct size tools

II

SUPPLEMENT

248 and a fOf offorce. Do not apply heallQ

the rear axle in order ro loosen Ihe locknut and inner 11m as this .....iIl rllin the heat-Irealt'd harness of rhe axle.

6. Use Suzuki special tool (pan No. 09940-92420) with a 46 mm opening and hold onto the axle left-

hand inner nut (Figure U). Use an open-end wrench or adjustable wrench and loosen the axle OUler locknut on each side of the axle. It may be necessary

to lap on end of the wrench with a sofl-faced mallet to break the locknut loose. Remove the locknut from the threaded portion of the rear axle on each side.

7. Remove both rear wheels and rear hubs fTOm the rear oxle as described in Chapter Nine in the main body.

8. Remove the brake caliper as described in Chapler Ten in the main body_ TIe the caliper assembly up 10 the frame with a wire or Bungee cord.

9. Remove the bolls and nuts (Figure 12) loosened

in Step 4.

10. Di sengage the drive chain from the dri ven sprocket.

II. Remove the rear axle and rear axle housing from the swing ann.

REAR AXLE )CHAIN DRIVEN MODELS)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Rear axle Brake disc Allan bolt Bolt Washer 011 ...1

7. Bearing

Rear axle housing •• Adjuster •• locknut plate 10.

11 . Drtve chain adjuster 12. Nut

Conar Driven sprocket carrier Driven sprocket Wave washer 17. Inner nut 18. Ouler locknut

13.

14.

15.

16.

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION

速

249

12. Remove the ouler locknut and inner nut from the left-hand side of the axle and sl ide olT the wave washers and the sprocket assembly.

13. Slide the rear axle out of the rear axle housing from the righi-hand side.

14. Inspect the rear axle as described in Chapler

Nine in the main body.

Insta ll ation

速

Refer 10 Figure 10 for this procedure.

I. Make sure the axle bearing oil seals are in place on each side of the axle housing. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the lips of the seals.

2. insta!llhe rear axle into the axle housing from the righi-hand side. Push it in until it SlOps. 3. Apply a light coat of mUltipurpose grease 10 the axle splines where the driven sprocket assembly rides.

4. Slide the driven sprocket assembly onto the rear

axle.

5. Apply a coat of Suzuki Bond No. 12078, or equivalent, to the driven sprocket mounting flange (Fig ure 13).

6. Install the inner wave washer with the dished side facing in followed by the ouler wave washer with the dished side facing out (Figure 14).

7. Apply red Loctite (No. 271) to the inner nut threads prior to installation and install the inner nut.

速

速

..

I

250

SUPPLEMENT

® SWINQ ARM AND SHOCK ABSORBER (CHAIN DRIVEN MODELS)

2

1 8 9 10 5 11

1. Bolt 2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Nul 0IlM.1 Collar Be.rlng Shock absorber

7. Clamp 8. Dust ...1cap 9. Washer

10. Collar

5

11 .

12.

13.

14.

15.

16 109 8 172 18

Swing arm Drive chain Drive chain Drlv. ch.ln Drive chain

front slipper middle slipper rear slipper guard

16. Collar 17. Walher 18. Plastic tip 19. Onv. ch.ln roller 20. Rear brake disc guard

,

I I

I, I

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATIO N

251

Use the same special tools used during removal and

14. If removed. tighten the dri ven sprockel nms 10 45-65 N.m (32-47 fl. -lb.).

15. InSlall the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven in this supplemenl.

16. Adjust the drive chain as described in Chapter Three in this supplement.

lighten the inner nut to 160-200 N. m (1 15- 144 ft. lb.).

8. Apply a coal of Suzuki Bond No. 12078. or equivalent, 10 lhe exposed shoulder of the inner nul.

9. Apply red Loctite ( No. 271 ) lathe locknut threads prior ( 0 installation and install the locknut. Use the same special tools used during removal. Hold onlo

the inner nut and lighten the locknut to 160-200 N. m (115-144 ft.-lb .).

10. Engage the drive chain onlo the dri ven sprocket.

11. Install the boll.s and nuts (Figure 12) securing the rear axle housing to the swing anTI. TIghten the nu ts finger- tight allhis time as they will be lightened after the drive chain is adj us ted.

12. Install the brake caliper as described in Chapter

Ten in the main body.

13. Install both rear hubs and wheels onlo the rear axle as described in Chapter Nine in the main body.

ÂŽ

SWING ARM AND SHOCK ABSORBER (CHAIN DRIVEN MODELS) On these models the shock absorber and the swing arm are removed from the frame as an assembly.

Refer to Figure I S for this procedure.

Re mova l I. Place the ATV on level ground and sel the pari:.ing brake.

2. Remove the seat and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven in this supplement.

3. Remove the rear axle as described in this chapter.

4. Remove the shock absorber upper mounting bolt and nut (A. F igure 16).

5. Open the cable guides on the right-hand side of the swing ann and separate the rear caliper brake hose and parking brake cable from the swing ann.

6. Loosen the clamping screw (8 . F igure 16) securing the shock absorber remote reservoir to the frame.

Slide the damp off the reservoir. leave it on the frame.

7. Remove the plastic cap from the left-hand side of the frame covering the pivot bolt nut.

8. Remo ve the pivo t bolt self-locking nut and washer.

9. Using a drift and hammer. tap the pivot bolt out oflhe frame and swing arm. Withdraw the pivot bolt (C, F igu re 16) from the righi-hand side.

10. Pull the swing arm and shock absorber back and carefully remove the assembly from the frame.

NOTE DOII't lose the dust utli cap 0" each side of both pivot poims; 'hey will usually fall off when the swing arm is remol'ed.

11 . If necessary. remove the bolt and nut securing the lower portion of the shock absorber to the swing arm and remove the shock absorber from the swing

mn.

SUPPLEMENT

252 Disassemblyllnspection/Assembly

Disassemble, inspect and assemble the shock absorber as described Chapter Nine in the main b<xly while referring to Figure 15.

5. Apply a light coal of multipurpose grease to the pivot bolt and insert the pivot bolt from the right· hand side.

6. Install the washer and the self-locking nut and tighten to 50-80 N.m (36-58 ft.-lb .).

7. Install the plastic cap onto the left-hand side covering the nut.

Installation 1. If removed. insta11 the shock absorber onto the

swing arm with Ihe remote rese .....o ir hose facing toward the from of the swing arm. InSlall the bolt from the right·hand side and inslall the nut. lighten the nul to 40-60 N.m (29M fl.-lb.) .

2. Make sure the dust seal cap is in place on each side of both pivol points of the swi ng ann.

3. Place the swing ann through the drive chain and into position in the mounting area of the frame.

During installation. move the upper end oflhe shock absorber up into position in the frame so the upper bolt can be insta11ed.

4. Align the holes in the swing ann with lhe holes in the frame using a drift as a guide on the left-hand

side.

8. Move the remote reservoir into position on the frame and slide the clamp into position. Tighten the clamping screw (B, Figure 16) securely.

9. Move the rear caliper brake hose and parking brake cable into the cable guides on !.he right-hand side o f the swing ann. Close the guides to secure the hose and cable securely.

10. Install the shock absorber upper mounting bolt from the right-hand side and install the nUl (A, Figure 16). Tighten the nUl to 40-60 N.m (29-44 ft.- lb.).

11 . Install the rear axle as described in this chapter.

12. Install the seal and rear fender as described in Chapter Eleven in this supplement.

CHAPTER TEN

BRAKES

REAR CALIPER

The rear caliper is the same as on previous models with the exception of the parking brake arm. On the 1987 and laler models the ann is shorter and the

®

brake cable is attached to the upper portion of the ann and the spring is attached to !.he lower portion (Figure 17). Service is exactly the same as on previous years.

1987 AND LATER SERVICE 1NFORMATlON

253

CHAPTER ELEVEN

BODY

FRONT FENDER

RemovallInsta llation (LT250S Models)

REA R FENDER RemovaVinstallation (LT2S0S Models)

Refer to Figure 18 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the rcar seat.

3. Remove the screws securing the fue l tank cover and remove the cover.

4. Carefully unscrew the ring securing the ignition switch to the left·hand side orlhe front fender cover.

5. CarefuUy disengage the from fender cover from the front fender and remove the cover. Reinstall the ring onto the ignition switch 10 avoid misplacing it.

6. Remove the lOp 4 bolts. and the 5 side and rear bollS securing the from fender to the frame and fronl

brace.

7. Pull the front fender up and off the fram e and brace and remove it.

8. Install by reversing these removal sleps. Tighten all boilS securely, but do not overtighten as the plastic panels may fracture.

Refer ( 0 Figure 19 for this procedure.

I. Place the ATV on level ground and set the parking brake.

2. Remove the rear seal.

3. Remove the bolts securing the seat mounting bmcket and remove !.he bracket.

4. Remove the 2 front bolts and washers and the 2 rear bolts, washers and nuts securing the rear fender to the frame.

5. Remove the lower boh and nut securing the lower front portion of the fender to the brace.

6. Pu ll the rear fender up and off the frame and brace and remove it.

7. Install by reversing these removal steps. Tighten all bolts securely, but do not overtighten as the plastic panels may fracture.

Figure. 18-1g .... on the following pag•••

SUPPLEMENT

254

FRONT FENOER (LT250S) 1. Bolt 2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

Fuel tank cover Lockwasher Mounting bracket Rubber stopper Mudguard Bracket Nut Front brace

10. Lower bracket

11 . Cap 12. Front fender

13. Washer 14. Front fender cover

3

~~~ ; ; ~W 11

10

8

I

1987 AND LATER SERVICE INFORMATION

255

I ~

II

REAR FENDER

(LT250S, 4

2 3~_ _- ,

23

5

~ 2

8

, . Rear fender

2. Phillips screw 3. Washer 4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Bolt Bolt Collar Bracket

Bracket

INDEX

A Air filter element cleaning .............. 34·35 Alternator (shaft-driven models) ....... 148· 151 Axle. rear chain--driven models ................ 188-190 inspection (all models) .................. 191 shaft-driven models ................ 186-188 1987 and later service infonnation ..... 247-251

B Battery .............................. 21·22 Bearing and oil seal replacement. rear axle (shaft-driven models) ................... 196 Bearing housing. rear axle (chain-driven models) .............. 196-198

Body front and rear carriers (shaft·driven models) .............. 236·238 front fender. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232-234,253·254 front hand grip .................... 234-235 rear fender .................... 234.253.255 rear hand grip ......................... 236 1987 and later service infonnation., ... 253-255 Brakes bleeding the system ................ 227·229 brake problems. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 18 front caliper .......................... 220 rear caliper ................... 221-222,252 rear brake hose replacement. ......... 226-227 rear disc brake pedal ................ 229·230 1987 and later service infonnation ......... 252 Brakes. disc adjustment. rear disc parking brake ......... 3 1

brake hose replacement. . . . . . • . . . . .. 224-226 nuid change. disc .................... 30-31 nuid level, disc ...................... 29·30 front brake disc . ....................... 222 front bnlke pad replacement. . . . . . . . .. 209·211 front master cylinder ............... 214-215 lines, disc ..................... .. ...... 30 maintenance ....................... , ... 29 pad wear, disc .......................... 30 pedal height adjustment. rear disc .......... 31 rear brake disc .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 223-224 rear brake pad replacement .......... 211-214 rear disc brake pedal ............... 229·230 rear master cylinder (disc brake models) .......• . ...... 215-220 Brakes, front drum adjustment ............................ 28 brake shoe replacement .. .. ..••..... 202-204 front master cylinder ............... 214-215 hose replacement ...... .. ....•..... 2240226 inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 208-209 lining inspection ............•........... 27 wheel cylinder .............•.......... 204 Brakes. rear drum brake cable replacement. .. ...•...... 206-207 brake pedal and rod ....... . ........ 207-208 brake shoe replacement .......•..... 204-206 inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 208·209 lever adjustment ........................ 29 lining inspection ...... •. ..... • ....... 27-28 pedal adjustment .....•......•....... 28-29 Bulbs ... , ............•...... • ..... 158-162

INDEX

257

C

I

I

Cam chain lensioner _... .. ...... ... ....... 73 Capacitor discharge ignition. . . . . . . . . .. 153·154 1987 and later service information ..... 245.246 Carburetor adjustmems .... .. ..... ... _........ 136- 137 disassembly/assembly .. ..... ..... .. 133·136 operation ... . ......................... 131

removal/installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 131· 133

I

, !

I

I

,

1987 and later service information. . . .. . .. . ...... ....

Charging system..

Choke cable (shafl-driven) ............

Clutch centrifugal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

243-245 146-147 138· 139

. . 95-99 clutch cable (chain..<Jriven) ..... .. .... 109·) 1]

clutch lifting mechanism (shaft-driven) .................... 106-109 clutch release mechanism (chain-driven) ........................ 109 drive sprockel. ...... ..... ..... .... 114· 115 external shift mechanism ............ 111·114 inspection. manual ................. 105· 106 manual chain·driven models .. . ............ 101 ·\05 shaft..<Jriven models ............ .. . 100·10 1 operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 94·95 Clutch adjustment chain· driven models .... . ..... • • • ..... 32·33 shaft..<Jri venmodels ............•..... 31·32 Crankcase and crankshaft assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 88·89 bearing and oil seal replacement . . . . . . .. 90·91 disassembly......................... 86·88 inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 89·90 Crankcase breather system ................. 37 Cylinder............................. 65·67 Cylinder head and camshaft disassembly{mspection/assembly........ 62·63 installation ... .. .................... 63·65 removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6()..62 Cylinder head cover and rocker ann assembly disassembl yrmspeclion/assembly. . . . . . .. 59·60 inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... . ...... 57 installation ....... . . .. ..... ..... .. ..... 58 removal .... _ . . . ... ...... ... . 55-57

o Decompression lever adjustment (chain·driven models) ................... 34 Drive chain ..................... . 26·27.196

Dual -range subtransmission (shaft-driven LT-F230) ....... . ...... 125- 129

E Electrical system .................... 146-1 66 1987 and later service infonnation .... 245-247 Engine break-in procedure .......... .... ........ 91 cam chain tensioner ......... . •.......... 73 cooling ........ .. ..........•........ .. 51 crankcase and crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86·91 cylinder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

65-67 cylinder head and camshaft ............ 60-65 cylinder head cover and roc ker ann assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 55-60 excessive vibration ...................... 18 kickstaner(chain-driven models) ....... 73-77 noises ................................ 18 oil pump ........................... 71·73 perfonnance....... . . . . ....... 17-18 piston. piston pin and piston rings. . . . . .. 67-7 1 principles ............................. 51 recoil starter (shaft· driven) ........

77-81 secondary bevel gear and drive gear sel (shaft..<Jriven models) ......... 82-86 servicing in frame .................. _. 51 · 53 starter gears (shaft-driven models) ...... 81-82 staffing ............................ 16- 17 tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 39-48 valves and valve sealS .................. . 65 1987 and later service infonnat ion .... 241-242 Exhaust system. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 143·144

F Fasteners ............................... 39 Final drive unit (shaft-driven) ......... 191-195 Front wheeltoe·in adjustment .... ....... 37-38 Fuel line inspection .. . .. .... .. ............ 37 Fuel pump (shaft-driven models) ........... 142 Fuel shutoff valve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 139- 140 Fuel shutoff valve and filter removal/installation chain-dri ven models ................ 36· 37 shaft-driven models ......••.. . ...... 35-36 Fuel tank .......................... 141·1 42

H Handlebar ........................ . 171- 173 Hub. front. _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 168- 170

INDEX

258

Ignition. capacitor discharge . . . . . . . . . .. 153- 154 1987 and later service infonnation... .. 245, 246 Ignition coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 154- 156

K

Piston/piston pin/piston rings. . . . . . . . . . .. 67-7 1 1987 and later service information ........ 24 1

R Recoil starter (shaft -driven models) ................. 77-81

Kickslarter(chain-driven models) .... .... 13-77

S L Lighting system................•.... 158- 162 Lubrication. periodic ......... .. ........ 22-26

M Magneto (chain-driven models) ........ 151 - 153

MaiOlcnance, periodic air filter element cleaning .............. 34-35 battery (models so equipped) .. ....... . . 21-22

brakes ............................. 27-3 1 clutch ............................. 3 1-33 crankcase breather system ..... . .... .. .... 37

decompression lever ..................... 34 drive chain •........................ 26-27 front wheel toe-in adjustment ......... . . 37-38 fuel line inspection ......... . ....... . .... 37 fuel shutoff valve and filter ............ 35-37 nuts, bolts and OIher fas teners ....... ... ... 39 pre-checks ............................. 19 rear suspension check................. 38-39 service intervals ... ... .... .. ... . ..... 19-20 steering system/front suspension ...... . .... 37 throttle lever ........................ 33-34 tires and wheels ..................... 20-2 1 wheel bearings ......................... 37 1987 and later service information ..... 240-241 Master cylinder, front (drum and disc brake models) ........ 214-215 Master cylinder. rear (disc brake models) assembly ................. . ....... 2 18-220 disassembly........................... 218 inspection ............... , .. , ... . ... , . 2) 8 removaVmstallalion ................ 215-218 Mechanic's lips ........................ 9-10

o Odometer housing (shafl-driven models) ..... 165 Oi l pump .......... ........ . . ..... . .. 7 1-73

p Pans replacement ................ • ...... , . 5

Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4, 10-12 Secondary bevel gear and drive gear set (shaft-driven models) .......... 82-86 Serial numbers ............ .......... .. ... 5 Service hints . .......................... 2-3 Shock absorber. ................ 18 1. 198- 199 1987 and later service information 250-252 Spark plugs gapping and installing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 45-46 reading ................ .. .•........... 46 removal/cleaning ..........••••......... 45 selection .................. •. .......... 45 Special tips ............................ 4-5 Star1er ................................ 157 Starter gears (shaft-driven models) . . . . . .. 81-82 Star1er solenoid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157-158 Star1ing system ..................... 156-157 Steering shaft ............ .. ........ 173- 175 Supplies, expendable ...... .. .............. 5 Suspension, front , and steering ........ 18,37-39 Sprocket and dri ve chain ................. 196 Sprocket, driven ........... . ............ 191 Swing ann (chain-driven models) ...... 199-201 1987 and laler service information .... 250-252 Switches........................ . 162-164 1987 and later service information 245-247

T Throttle cable ..... . .... . ........... 137-138 1lrroille lever adjustment chain-driven models ......... . ........ 33-34 shaft-driven models ....... . ............. 33 Tierod ............................ 175-176 YLreS ........................ 20-21.18 1- 184 Tools hand ............................... . 5-8 tune-up and troubleshooting ............... 9 Torque specifications. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-4 Transmission and internal shift mechanism assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 123 countershaft disassembly/assembly ........ 119

INDEX

Il

, I

I

I

Transmission/inlemal s.hift mechanism (continued) dual -range subtnmsmission (shafl-driven LT-F230) , ...... ...... 125·129 inslallation ....................... 118- 11 9 internal shift mechanism ............ 123- 125 main shaft assembly ........................ 121 - 122 disassemblylinspeclion ..... . ...... I) 9·121 preliminary inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 119 removal ............... ,' ......... 115· 11 8 reverse idle gear and shaft disassembly/inspection .. . . . . . . . . .. 122-123 1987 and later service information ..... 242-243

Tune·up. engine camshaft chain lensioner adjustment . . . .. 42-44 carburetor adj ustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46-48 compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 44-45 cyl inder head nuts, cylinder nuts and exhaust system bolts and nuts ............ 40

259 ignition liming ......................... 46 spark plugs. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .... ' 4546 valve clearance adjustment ...... . ..... 41-42

V Valves and valve seats .................... 65 Voltage regulator (shaft·driven models). ..... ...

147·148

w Wheel bearings ... ..................... 37 front ............... ... .•• • ...... 167·168 rear .... .................• . ...... 185·186 Wheels, maintenance .................. 20-21 Wiring diagrams .................... 260-264 Wi shbone/steering knuckle. front. . . . . .. 176·181

W 8/W Y

DIMMER SWITCH

UGHTlNGI

I ~

I

-H °m m

Q

ReGULATOR

-----,.1<---

HEADLIGHT

-

SWTTCH

ENGINE STOP IGNITION SWITCH

~~~

IGNITION UNIT

CAPACITOR DtSCHARGE

-

MAGNETO

~~ JJ1L

n ~

W.

M

.....

-,-.......... --..... --,......--,,•w o ••

COLOR CODE

-----

""'"'''''''

--+;;0

-+-~"""

, ~

. O~

*

~

DIAGRAM KEY

TAIL LIGHT

:~

CONNECTORS

ACCESSORY

ELECTRIC

~

0.= ~o

I r'" U q ~. ~

IGNITION COIL

- - ----=-

(J)

..,o.,!:i

~

CO

~

-:'

ex>

CO

~

~

l;:

~

C'l

C'l

'"z ;: " ~

~

t.. _

m

•

_

HEADLIGHT

•

SWITCH

LlGIfTlNGI DIMMER

.'

...._.

BIW

,

W

I ---,

aU

ll(

~

REGULATOR

-

~~

h

5~G.~o

SWITCH

IGNITION

m

• • ft,

MAGNETO

~ u~

~~

••

IGNmON UNIT

CAPACITOR DISCHARGE

~I iUIj ""'1-'

••

SWITCH

STOP

ENGtNE

•

1

IGNmON COIL

.-,--.....

------ ---,-......-

• _

n

~""""

-+;;;

-+~

, ::::..

. O~

*

~

DIAGRAM KEY

TAILLIGHT

BrN:JLLJJ

.,JJ]

~

~

•• .,. ,.

~

0

G

, •

••

COLOR CODE

•

•

,.

III

'"g:

!:j

o

CD CD

~

CD ,

Q)

~

CD

rE

~

. . -

'"

"'~"

;;

'o"

~

2!

N

t.

WlRING DIAGRAMS

263

1985-1986 LT230GE and 1986 LT-F230

l

·~i i U

-.'"

-"

d~§

MIS

,

~"

II-

~

',,,.

00

....::

•~g ~.

....

~ ";' ~ ~

~§.

i

III

g--i~'w

~t=1 ! ~ ~II h .S ,z ~ •

Q

"

"'"

••

a:

~~ ~ ~ L I_ .~

~ .;,

~i

~

,--I;r;

~ "' I-;

F ~~ ."

~ ...: I I::

• •

i.i

~~~ ~II

hhMg !"

t;

o

."' ..... o8'.~

~ ~~

~

~~

0-

~~

I

W;~ z ~

~ "O~B

i "

m

•

,

.n _ ~ , an

~.>

='

-.= ~ ::;

G.

LJR

>~"

SWITCH

IOHmON

REVERse SWITCH

~

~~"

~l~

HEADU lHT

R

BfN

N~~

LIG"'"

M.,.R

SWITCH

SWITCH

~

START£R SWITCH

fi

~ ~"o~ NEUTRAL

RELAV

__

•

NEUTRAL INDICATOR LIGHT SWITCH

dmJ

"II I

RELAY

MOTOR

STARTER

7

STARTER

t+:b"

~~

i 7

PLUG

SPARK

RECT1FIER

REGULATOR!

iB

n ."

~~o~ ~~ I~ ... ~~

7

r:-

CO<L

n

15 AMP FUse

~1~lilil;tj1 'ff I

ENGINE KILL

DIMMER

IGNIT10N

7

I

~

MAGNETO

•

BATTERY

---

~

r=:J

LIGHT

TAIL

V_!ONwo

~­ YI1I V_,._ y/O

~­

W"- _ _

~ ~-­ Wi" _ _ _

a.w _ _

A.~mo-'~i~

81W

Br

~-

-+-

-

J=-+-

~~

,, ,, - ..

•~

,-* --.-

DIAGRAM KEY

•,•

COLORCOOE

~

'"o

"TI N

~ !:j ,

CD

'"

";;" ";:~

~

Z

z: