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Contents Hair 16

Beauty

editor’s note

editor’s summer favourites

business

prof ile

Master of Style: Joey Scandizzo

Future Beauty

26 Style File: Lauren Gunn

40 Fresh Start For 2016

30 Men Of Style: Jason Davies 32 My Favourite Things: Kylie Hayes 34 Backchat With Howard McLaren 44 The Basement Barber: Lucas Kelly

international Blueshift 60 Technik 66 Irezumi 72 Naska

46 business

Conquering Social Media 78 The Year In Review 80 Five Essential Facebook Posts

prof ile

Ask The Experts: Kim Larsen 13 Ask The Experts: Sylvie Raynal 14 Ask The Experts: Kath Gould

focus

Summer Body Ready 20 On The Road 22 Holiday Essentials 26 Saving Face 28 A Beauty Addict In Hong Kong

focus

The Love Affair With Celebrity Hair 42 Redken Hits Up Queenstown

nz showcase

Harmony: Natasha Boustridge 38 A Man's World: Industry Creative Team 40 Stealth Style: Kaleb Pritchard

38 Finding Skin Fitness Through Food

trend watch Palm Springs

24 What's The Gloss 44 Raw: Berrylicious

spa zone Desert Star

TAKE hAir ON A jOyridE! Give your clients the ultimate #hairthrills with our new super primer: jOyridE TExTuriziNg POwdEr BAlm. Control, de-frizz and add lived-in texture to create the legendary Bed Head look. Ask your Account Manager about jOyridE now! Available from Dateline Imports 0800 169 600 info@dateline.co.nz www.bedhead.com

® HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SUMMER 2015 / VOL.38 NO.4

EDITOR

Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ph : +64 9 579 5188 CREATIVE CONSULTANT

Trudi Brewer trudibrewer@xtra.co.nz ART DIRECTOR

Karla Farrar karla@mintideas.co.nz DESIGN

Kirralee Fisher kirralee@mintideas.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

Charmaine Guest, Trudi Brewer, Liz Lamb, Ashlee Levitch, Larissa Macleman, Wendy Maxwell, Jennifer Morgan, Caroline Nelson, Anne O'Brien, Sharleen Singh, Catherine Stone. PRINTING

Bell Print EDITORAL & ADVERTISING

Contact information : PO Box 14447, Panmure, Auckland 1741 Telephone : +64 9 579 5188 Fax : +64 9 579 7921 Email : charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST EDITORIAL

Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION

Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. Headway subscription rates in New Zealand are $45.00 (including GST and postage) for one year. HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016a Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2015 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY® , ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND ”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. 14

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Editor's letter Happy 2016 and welcome to the summer edition of Headway Magazine. As we put the final touches to this edition before Christmas, I couldn't help but wonder what this new year will bring. We have had a record number of contributors this issue and the inspiration and creativity of these great writers and experts has motivated me to make 2016 one of our best yet. This, and the fact that we have already begun planning the celebrations for our 40th anniversary issue, means my creative brain is in overdrive. It does seem a little strange to be winding up at the end of such a great year when I'm usually winding down. However, we have embraced topsy-turvy activity this season, as you can see by the experimentation with our look for summer, and I’m loving the newness of it all. If you haven’t already noticed, we have introduced a new style to our beauty section this edition. Hence, the gorgeous new ‘flip’ cover by Sothys, but we have also expanded the Headway team to include the enormously talented Trudi Brewer as Creative Consultant and all-round media mentor for the year ahead. Trudi has added an extra level of expertise and energy to our production and design team and has already made an impact. We are absolutely thrilled to have her on board as we realise our Headway dream of being the biggest and best trade publication for the professional market. It really is an exciting time for us. With a beautiful new season upon us, not to mention a new year, it's the perfect time to reflect back on 2015 and what we can do differently to enhance our business and ensure this is our most successful year ever. With this in mind, we have included a host of features to help set you off on the right foot for the New Year, along with plenty of visual inspiration for both hair and beauty lovers. Headway turns 40 next year, which is something of a milestone in this industry, so I’d like to take this opportunity to say a big thank you to everyone who has supported us, especially over the past 14 years I’ve been with this amazing publication. It’s still exciting for me to be part of such an ever-changing and creative industry.

Charmaine

For style inspiration and news, join us at facebook.com/headwaymagazine

THE CULTURE OF HAIRDRESSING HAIRDRESSER DRIVEN FORMULAS. FORMULATED WITHOUT PARABENS + SULFATES*. VEGETARIAN. CRUELTY + GLUTEN-FREE. TO CARRY R+CO PRODUCTS, CALL BOUTIQUE BRANDS ON 0800 25 25 30 OR EMAIL HELLO@BOUTIQUEBRANDS.CO.NZ *SLS or SLES

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HEADWAY PROMOTION

bespoke beauty AT ITS FINEST Kérastase’s ultra-concentrated, ultrapersonalised luxury hair service is now 15 times stronger than before GRANT BETTJEMAN Bettjemans, Auckland Why did you decide to work with the Kérastase brand and what benefits has it provided for your salon?

BEX BRENT Willis York, Wellington

Bettjemans has been a Kérastase salon for 18 years. Hairdressers worldwide know that Kérastase is the “Rolls Royce” of hair and scalp products. No other hair company is able to make the huge investment that keeps Kérastase at the leading edge of this technology.

How does Kérastase’s philosophy fit with the Willis York brand and image? It was important to me I didn’t have a salon that fitted into a particular box when I started. I wanted to build the next generation of superstar hairdressers and that means cultivating businesses within a business. Our basin stock is only Kérastase, so the client’s first journey in the salon is of pure luxury. You cannot force people to use a product, but once they see and feel the benefits of Kérastase, they are a customer for life

Can you tell us a little about how Fusio-Dose works? Fusio-Dose is the world’s first system of highly concentrated active ingredients that can be freshly fused especially for your hair and scalp needs by your stylist. There are four concentrates: a) One for coloured hair that locks in colour to avoid fade, adding ultra-shine and radiance. b) Another to add nourishment and instant softness to dry hair. c) A third that reconstructs damaged hair for the ultimate fibre repair – great for highlighted blondes. d) The fourth is the new densifying concentrate, which creates lushness and thickness, while hydrating from roots to tips. Hair will regain its bounce and resist breakage. Fusio-Dose has a magical second step in the form of boosters to meet your secondary needs. Brittle hair may need more bounce and thickness, so a density booster is added to a damaged hair concentrate.

What do you and your clients love most about the Fusio-Dose service? Clients love Fusio-Dose because the results are immediately tangible and take only 5 minutes.

Fusio-Dose is very much tailor-made for the individual and their needs. Why is this so important for clients today?

What are you and your clients loving most about the Fusio-Dose service? That it’s a quick and highly effective service! If you invest in a beautiful colour then it is important to keep it looking its best. There is a tailor-made service for every hair type – that’s what makes it so great. All clients benefit from Fusio-Dose and some more than others. If your hair is coloured, dry and damaged, or losing its bounce, shine and density, you will love these treatments.

How does offering clients an exceptional, tailormade service, like Fusio-Dose, benefit your team and the salon? A salon like Bettjemans has a reputation and culture of high-end exceptional service. The tailor-made Fusio-Dose treatment fits perfectly with our luxury brand. We have a special opulent private spa area that seduces the senses and makes this indulgent ritual an experience you will never forget.

Kérastase has expanded its original Fusio-Dose formula. The personalised mix of super-concentrated active ingredients has been refined for better performance and the booster dosage has been multiplied by 15. The new mixing system provides a flawless fusion – the formula comes together using an intelligent system

Fusio-Dose is very much tailor-made for the individual and their needs. Why is this so important for clients today? We are all living a bespoke life now, you can even make your own perfume, so why not have a specific, tailor-made haircare regime. That to me is luxury - bespoke services makes you feel special.

How does offering clients an exceptional service, like Fusio-Dose, benefit your team and the salon? A personal touch like the bespoke Fusio-Dose service adds that extra touch in making a client’s journey a memorable one. People always remember you by how you made them feel by your actions and words, not what you look like.

enabling delivery of the proper dose of booster into the concentrate. Fusio-Dose’s new generation of concentrated, bespoke active ingredient combinations deliver an optimised formula for higher performance with each treatment. Twenty tailor-made mixtures are possible to ensure the perfect treatment for any hair type.

kerastase.com

COLOUR CRUSH We love the current trend towards rose-gold/copper tones; elegant and alluring. We especially like this version from De Lorenzo's Lady Luxe Colour Collection - a look that encapsulates old-school Hollywood and classic beauty, and was created by layering and overlapping warm shades of copper and golden hues to create a refined, rich, strawberry blonde. Ice-blonde is also on-trend for summer and Lady Luxe model Sophia rocks an elegant side-sweep with natural tones at the roots.

SLEEPING BEAUTY Have a nightcap of a healthier kind with Living Proof Perfect Hair Day Overnight Perfector. This easy-to-use solution provides one week of shiny, vibrant and more manageable hair overnight. Apply before bed (to dry or damp hair), go to sleep, and wake with renewed radiance, a smooth feel and glossy look. From Dateline.

SEASONAL summer updates

GLOW TIME Following on from the success of Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine, Redken Diamond Oil Glow Dry offers a balance between instant illuminating shine, control and reduced blow-dry time. Featuring heat-responsive oil technology with a blend of two heat-transforming silicones, the silicones evaporate when heat is applied, adding luxurious shine and style without the weight.

GLOSSED UP We love the new colour-saving 2Care Shine treatment products from Italian brand, Professional By Fama. The Colour-Saving Masque, Shampoo and Extra Shining Milk blend science and nature to create a range that nurtures and nourishes, keeps colour vibrant and adds amazing shine. From Euro Salon Supplies.

SUMMER DEFENCE Keep those flyaways in check with Affinage Black Ice O'Behave Smoothing Cream from Dateline. This multi-purpose cream-gel is ideal to define, curl or smooth out frizzy locks, with built-in humidity protection and antioxidant properties to seal in moisture and maintain your look for longer.

EFFORTLESS GLAMOUR Rodney Wayne's summer 2016 campaign references the supermodels of the 90s, presenting styles that deliver a subtle nod to the 70s. Rodney Wayne Global Creative Director, Richard Kavanagh, says that, "summer 2016 delivers looks that provide references to the power-women of the 90s. Kate Moss, Giselle Bundchen and Linda Evangelista represent a time of effortless luxury and natural glamour rewarded by strength, sincerity and a sense of adventure." Featured are 'Golden Wave' and 'Freefall'.

INSTANT RESULTS De Lorenzo has revamped their Instant Series range - Accentu8, Rejuven8 and Allevi8 - with a new look and innovative paraben-free formulas. The ingredients offer conditioning, moisturising, smoothing and volumising capabilities. Baobob protein features across the series for its ability to repair, increase hair strength, protect, hydrate and nourish.

SURF'S UP We're addicted to new Oribe Apres Beach Wave and Shine Spray which creates tousled, touchable waves with sun-kissed shine. This moisturising glamour spray uses rich extracts and exotic oils for lush repair and sultry texture. Simply spray onto wet or dry hair, tousle and go. From Boutique Brands.

LIGHT LUXURY Schwarzkopf Professional Bonacure BC Oil Miracle Mists for both light and thick hair, envelop locks with a hint of luxurious, nourishing care that repairs damage and protects strands from root to tip. Micro-Dispersion Technology allows hair to dry faster than other hair oils, giving weightless shine and an instantly dry feel.

THE ULTIMATE ACCOLADE Huge congratulations go out to Mikaela Edwards from Runway Salon in Gore who has achieved what no other Kiwi hairdresser has yet managed to do. Mikaela, who won the New Zealand Gold Young Talent Award at the Wella Trend Vision National Final in September, travelled to Berlin in November to compete against 39 other countries and walked away with the amazing accolade of Wella International Trend Vision Gold Young Talent Winner 2015. We couldn't be more proud!

SHINE BRIGHT Add a little sparkle this summer with Joico Gold Dust. The light-reflecting particles in the dazzling Gold Dust shimmer spray give an alluring glow to any hairstyle, along with light hold and a lusciously fresh scent. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ultimate special-occasional styling treat.

TO DYE FOR Colourists can now have more control over their formulas than ever before, with Malibu C Direct Dye Lifter from Dateline. This creamy, non-drip formula is designed for use with or without developer to give you the control you want while preserving the integrity of client's hair. Featuring a freshly-activated formula, DDL removes unwanted direct dyes and can also be used creatively for special effects.

VOLUME INJECTION Go big this season with RUSK Texture Spray. Acting like an instant volumiser, this dry finishing styler with lasting hold maintains hair's natural movement, while adding fulsome texture. A few quick bursts are all that's needed. From Salon Warehouse.

MATRIX MULTI-TASKER Matrix introduce three new Cleansing Conditioners, individually tailored for fine, curly and medium hair. The low-lather conditioners provide thorough cleansing and targeted, nourishing conditioning without stripping or adding weight, in just one step.

BEACH HEAD Summer sun, sand and surf add amazing amounts of volume to hair, leaving it looking sexily dishevelled. R+Co ROCKAWAY Salt Spray is the closest youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get to replicating that without ever stepping foot outside. This thickening spray will add texture and volume to even the limpest of locks. From Boutique Brands.

TRAVEL BUDDY The Wet Brush Midi Detangling Brush is a cute holiday companion, measuring just 17cm in length. Effortlessly and painlessly detangling wet or dry hair, its secret is in the exclusive IntelliFlex bristles and SofTips, which ensure gentle de-knotting and scalp kindness every time. From Dateline.

POLISH IN A BOTTLE Target stubborn flyaways and tame frizz with ELEVEN Australia Anti-Frizz Serum. This lightweight and nourishing styler can also be used as a lush treatment for all hair types and contains organic argan oil for ultimate softness and manageability. "This is my new go-to product for a shiny finish," says ELEVEN Co-Director, Joey Scandizzo.

TREND TO WATCH Gwen Stefani is a trailblazer when it comes to hair and though her latest look isn't for everyone, it's sure to be gracing the heads of the more adventurous this year. The singer's platinum blonde locks have been colour-blocked and striped in razor-edge chunks in a range of contrasting shades. We love this version by British hairdresser, Rae Palmer; a bold, graphic light and dark design.

PURE LUXURY KĂŠrastase has revamped the legendary Elixir Ultime collection, which now includes three new additions; Elixir Ultime Volume Beautifying Oil Mist, renovated Elixir Ultime and Elixir Ultime Beautifying Oil Conditioner. Our pick is the luxe conditioner, with its creamy, lightweight texture that coats the hair fibre to detangle and deeply nourish the hair.

WELL GROOMED De Lorenzo introduce DMAN, the essential grooming range for men. Featuring three products - a shampoo, shaving cream and pomade - the range is packed with botanical ingredients, such as peppermint oil, olive leaf extract and lemon tea tree, to strengthen, nourish and care for both hair and skin. From Professional Hair Brands.

PROFILE

Q&A JOEY'S FAVOURITES BOOK: Scar Tissue by Anthony Kiedis. RESTAURANT: Save Our Souls (SOS cafe), Melbourne. GUILTY PLEASURE: Surfing when I should be working. OUTFIT: Shorts and t-shirt. FRAGRANCE: Tom Ford Black. CHILL-OUT TIME: My 10km morning run. MOVIE: Top Gun. HAIRDRESSING ICON: Vidal Sassoon and Anthony Mascolo. BINGE-WATCH: Entourage. CELEBRITY CRUSH: Victoria's Secret models! What's a working week like for you currently? A working week for me is never boring! Its go, go, go from the moment I get up. Mondays I’m in the salon, Tuesday we have our ELEVEN Australia meeting with the guys and Wednesday is family day, so I am with my wife Jane and little boy Jagger, which is always loads of fun. Thursday, Friday and Saturday I am flat-out on the salon floor with my team, then Sunday I spend with the family and get ready for the week ahead. My weeks are pretty hectic but I wouldn’t have it any other way.

How would you describe your personal style?

MASTER OF STYLE

joey scandizzo

Much-loved Australian hairdresser, Joey Scandizzo, shares his inspirations, love of beautiful hair and secrets to success

rom executing the perfect bob to leading a team of hair superstars, Joey Scandizzo does so with a passion that is an inspiration in itself. The three-time Australian Hairdresser of the Year, owner of Joey Scandizzo Salons and Co-Director of ELEVEN Australia, is considered both an industry leader and a magician in his craft. He has endless accolades to his name and his success has taken him around the world, where he is viewed as both a trusted hair fashion spokesperson, educator and salon business leader. The effervescent and charming stylist took five minutes out of his busy schedule to chat with Headway about what makes him tick.

Where do you draw inspiration from and what’s inspiring you currently? Anything truly beautiful is inspiring me at the moment. With the change of season and summer here, I'm seeing the city, people and nature come alive. There is beauty everywhere but I am enjoying all the subtle things about it too. With hair, I am loving creating beautiful, soft, feminine shapes with natural movement that accentuates a woman’s beauty, nothing too overdone or over the top. Everything is effortless, which I think makes it more beautiful. 24

My own personal style is pretty relaxed. I like fashion and playing around with different looks but it's always pretty effortless and comfortable. I like Acne chinos and t-shirts over a suit any day. And stripes...I love stripes!

What has been your proudest career moment so far? I’m pretty fortunate to say I have had a few. Winning Australian Hairdresser of the Year three times still makes me proud, as it takes a lot of work and effort to get there and it makes me proud to think I did that. Now, further down the track in my career, I'm enjoying the business side of things, and growing our salon business towards owning five salons is a great feeling. Also, the launch of ELEVEN Australia; making that dream a reality and creating something that has been so well-received by hairdressers and consumers - and now launching internationally - it blows my mind every day how awesome it is. I couldn’t be more proud of ELEVEN Australia and the fact I get to work on it with Rob and Carlo from Ozdare and my mate Andrew O’Toole. It really is a dream come true.

What has been your most memorable shoot or session styling experience? It would definitely be the first time I worked with Jane, my now wife! I was so nervous because she was just so beautiful and an absolute killer in front of the camera. I'll never forget it.

“I'm finding women are wanting to make the most of their natural texture these days and they are happy to experiment with ways to make what they have look the best it can.” Which cities do you find most inspiring? I love travelling and have loads of favourite places. I love going to Copenhagen in Denmark; I love the people and the culture. It's understated, cool and relaxed but still has a great energy. I love Italian cities because of my family heritage and I definitely have to include Melbourne. I love coming home. We are so lucky to have the best food, shopping and lifestyle.

How would you describe your hairdressing style? I love precision cutting and beautiful classic shapes. I like experimenting with new techniques and I’m always wanting to learn, but I think there is nothing more beautiful than strong, classic shapes.

What’s your creative process when you start working on a collection? I start with an idea and then begin creating a story board and collecting as many references as I can. I wait to see a theme or one particular element I want to focus on and bring to life. Then I collaborate with my team and usually Andrew O’Toole, who shoots all my collections, and we workshop it and try and turn it into something special. I love the creative process of collaborating with a great team; from makeup artists, photographers and stylists. It's amazing when you see it all come together

Which hair looks are you loving right now?

I’m loving curls and heavy fringes and the 70s and 90s influence that is coming through in hair and fashion. I'm finding women are wanting to make the most of their natural texture these days and they are happy to experiment with ways to make what they have look the best it can.

Sea Salt Texture Spray either. I use this on almost every style I do, as it adds great texture and volume and smells incredible! I also love my Excellent Edges scissors - they are the best. ELEVEN collaborated with Excellent Edges on a 6.5 inch blade and they are definitely my new favourites.

Which hair look are you totally over?

What do you think it takes to be a truly great hairdresser?

I think really over-worked and over-manipulated hairstyles. You can have strong shapes and precision cuts but they don’t have to look sharp and aggressive; they can still have a softness to them.

Where does the idea or concept come from initially when you decide to create a new product for the ELEVEN brand? We listen to our customer and the hairdresser. That is the great thing about ELEVEN Australia; we make it really simple, easy to use and understand, so it doesn’t confuse anyone. I have a massive team of over 100 stylists and they all have a diverse clientele. I look at the work they do day in and day out and see what products they need to do that work the best they can.

Practice, dedication and a lot of hard work…and you have to really love it. It's not a career you can be half-hearted about and you have to be open to continually learning. You need to evolve the way fashion does and you need to keep perfecting your skills.

What would you say are the five key things that have made you successful? • Hard work. • Surrounding myself with the right people. • Learning how to delegate. • A willingness to take risks and step out of my comfort zone. • Running 10km every morning so I free my mind and can stay focused.

What are your ‘can’t live without’ products and tools? ELEVEN Australia Miracle Hair Treatment is the ultimate product. It's the best foundation for any style and has eleven amazing benefits for your hair. It is the first product we made and is our absolute hero. I can't live without our

What would you like to see more of in the hair industry? I would love to see hairdressers being more supportive of each other and I'd like to see more young kids want to be a part of the industry. 25

PROFILE

TIME OUT

WARDROBE

CLUB: Seafarers.

DENIM: APC.

DRINK: Corpse Reviver No. 2.

SHOES: Nike.

WEEKEND HANGOUT: The Whau River.

SUNGLASSES: Ray-Ban.

RESTAURANT: Coco's Cantina.

SUMMER DRESS: Miss Crabb.

CHEAP EATS: Uncle Manns. BINGE WATCH: Dance Moms. DEATH-ROW MEAL: Oysters and champagne.

SHOPPING HAUNTS: Mecca Cosmetica. DESIGNER TO WATCH: Eugenie. DAY-TO-DAY STYLE: Jeans and a t-shirt.

STYLE FILE Hair stylist and makeup artist, Lauren Gunn, has a reputation for producing beautiful editorial work, both in-salon and amongst the creative industry's finest. As a collaborator with designers, photographers, musicians and film-makers, we asked Lauren to share her fashion and culture favourites

CULTURE FILM: Hard one to pick, maybe Straw Dogs.

POLISH HAIRDRESSER: Rin Lee @ Vada. SHAMPOO: KEVIN MURPHY. BEAUTY PRODUCT: Glossier Balm Dotcom. MAKEUP ITEM: Nars Velvet Lip Pencil in Red Square. SIGNATURE SCENT: Chanel Coco Noir. BEAUTY TREATMENT: Relaxation Float Tank at White.

FAVOURITE APPS: The Talks, Radio NZ, The Guardian, Snapchat. MUST-CHECK WEBSITES: dazeddigital.com INSTAGRAM STALKS: beautypapersmag, oftheafternoon, thegardenedit, leroymagazine. MUSIC FAVOURITES: Lou Reed, Mazzy Star, Elvis, Dylan, Cash, Joanna Newsom, Grace Jones, Gaga, Bowie, Dolly and on and on. BOOK: The Complete Persepolis by Marjane Satrapi. GADGET: Projects Record Player. TRAVEL DESTINATION: New York. ACTOR CRUSH: Mads Mikkelsen.

New Oz Rock Intense Reds

WARM COPPER GOLDS COOL CYCLAMENS INTENSE REDS Double intenisty of tone and a combination of purer pigments mean the colour appears richer and more vibrant with long-lasting results and a brilliant shine

For more information call CS Company LTD trading as CS&Co. on 0800 604 604 or CS Company Salon Technical on 0800 102 805

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Mazella & Palmer Creative Team for Fudge Professional

creative to the core

FOCUS

THE LOVE AFFAIR WITH

celebrity hair

Jennifer Morgan discusses how celebrities are influencing the world of hair trends and what we can expect from colour in 2016

here is no denying the power of the media - in all its forms - in driving hair and fashion direction. And now with the dominance of social media, we are more and more inspired by the bloggers and the celebrities who have the influence and the followers to create new trends. Our clients now get their beauty ideas from Instagram, Youtube, Pinterest, Polyvore and other websites. Online they share their fashion favourites, get styling tips or ideas for accessories, nail art, body tattoos, piercings and other popular fashion trends. With social media, fashion-forward people can stay constantly up-to-date with changes in the hair, beauty and fashion industries, observing the trends as they happen in front of them. We are constantly exposed to photos and videos of celebrities out and about, walking the red carpet or relaxing in their private lives. Whether it’s a subconscious desire to emulate these stars or appreciation of their beautifully coloured and meticulously styled locks, it’s now so much easier to reference your favourite personality when you are thinking about a change. There are countless celebrities who have created a huge buzz in salons all over the world. J’Lo, Beyoncé and Khloe Kardashian inspired not only the ombre trend, but also big 'glamour’ hair that got us all working our arm muscles and our blow-wavers. Gwen Stefani brought us the original ‘hair pattern’ trend with her bold graphic light and dark design, while Kylie Jenner made headlines with her mint green dip-dye pastel and inspired a generation to expose their roots and try new mermaid tones. Kim Kardashian stopped the press when she briefly trialled a platinum blonde look. Although she didn’t stay light for long, she inspired brunettes all over the world to experiment with a radical change. Nicole Richie moved from television celeb to fashion icon when she cut her hair and started experimenting with pastel tones; then she unveiled the very first ‘grey hair’ look, which has since become a mainstream trend. Katy Perry on the other hand, is known for her brights; purple, blue, green, and a constantly morphing colour palette. This has motivated clients to look for regular and more creative change, while technological innovations have allowed us as colourists to achieve these results. 28

TRENDS TO WATCH OUT FOR… OPAL Consider this new hair trend the lighter, trendier cousin of the rainbow hair look that has been seen over winter. It's a blend of pearl and light pinks, blues, lilacs or greens. HAIR CONTOURING The biggest makeup trend of 2015 has its sights set on your hair. Hair contouring uses colour based on face shape and skin tone to frame your best features. Using colour, we can create emphasis and dimension within the hair.

“There are countless celebrities who have created a huge buzz in salons all over the world.” Kelly Osbourne gained credibility as a fashion guru when she introduced her lilac pastel and grey tones to the world. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Cara Delevingne both come to mind when you think about subtle balayage, babylights and bronde. Their images are used as client inspiration in salons all over the world. Jennifer Lawrence wowed fans and inspired hairdressers internationally with her bold pixie cut, while sexy, sultry and voluptuous Christina Hendrix brought bright copper hair to the world. This trend is still strong in many salons. Always the epitome of sophisticated style, Sienna Miller proved there is a bridge between natural blonde and pastel tones, with her beautiful rose-gold hues. Making varied lengths edgy and interesting, Rihanna, FKA twigs and Kelly Osbourne have all rocked the undercut over the past seasons, creating a more mainstream trend within the salon. Often the latest hair trends are also tied to emerging styles as seen at Fashion Weeks in all the major cities. The models featured in these shows are given hairstyles designed by some of our industry’s most creative talents (such as Redken Creative Director, Guido Palau) to enhance the clothing on display. Hair colours used on the runway may echo the tones that dominate the clothing line, or may offset by contrasting them. In many cases, the hair seen in these runway shows are avant-garde, making them impractical for everyday wear. Still, these looks often lead to a ‘trickle-down’ effect in which certain elements of the look are picked out and toned down so they can be worn by the general public. Jennifer Morgan has 30 years experience in the hairdressing industry. The Redken Business Advisor, colour specialist and owner of Morgan & Morgan Urban Retreat in Auckland, is one of New Zealand's most sought-after and experienced colourists.

BABYLIGHTS The babylights technique puts an emphasis on delicate, natural-looking highlights, like the ones you had when you were a young child but haven't seen since. The sun-kissed look is low maintenance and a more modern take on Balayage. SEVENTIES SHAG If 2015 was the year of the 'Lob', the coming season ushers in a 1970s-inspired, shoulder-length layered look, with lots of beautiful texture and elegant styling with the perfect dose of rock 'n' roll. HAIR PATTERNS Over the past few months, perennial hair trailblazer Gwen Stefani has gotten pattern-happy with her hair. The singer's platinum blonde strands have been colour-blocked and striped in razor-edge chunks in a range of fierce contrasting shades. BRONDE Brown + blonde = bronde. Throw a few creative celebrities into the mix and you know it's a trend with a long shelf life. A healthier and more subdued version of the ombré, it's a great option for brunettes who want a little lightness. ROSE BLONDE Sienna Miller, Kate Hudson and Jemima Kirke have all updated their colour with the perfect blend of blonde and rose. This tone has universal appeal due to its flattering skin softening effects and can be worn by clients of all ages.

PROFILE

Q&A

hat inspired you to create this education seminar? For a number of years, Penny (Davies) and I felt the industry required a highly accessible, enjoyable, state-of-the-art men’s educational cutting, colour and styling seminar that offered all the necessary techniques hairdressers could use immediately in-salon. We wanted to help develop and boost their male clientele and increase business revenue at the same time. In 2014, we were approached by L’Oréal Professionnel to design a world-class course which addressed the needs and demands of the rapidly changing modern men’s consumer base, concentrating on foundational core skills, which all hairdressers require to match the artistry of current men’s fashion trends, so they can effectively deliver an exceptional outcome for every male client. We also saw an opportunity for participants to view the men’s cutting, colour and styling market from an entirely different perspective, allowing them to see the potential of taking a service that could be considered ‘okay’ and developing it into something extraordinary.

men

OF STYLE Award-winning Tauranga hairdresser and Adoux salon owner, Jason Davies, recently held a series of seminars around the country entitled 'Style of Man'. Jason talks to us about the huge potential surrounding the male grooming market

How would you describe the demand for on-trend cutting and styling services for male clients? Men are becoming increasingly aware of cut and styling design options, but colour has a place within the spectrum too. However, the foundation will always be the cut, and the key driver currently in men’s fashion is aligned to more sculptured looks. Male clients are more receptive now to requesting shorter, finely handcrafted haircuts, which are more representative of a bespoke level of service. Accompanying a men’s haircut is always the pairing of the right care and styling product to complete the look. Have you seen an increase in demand for these types of services since you have been in business? Absolutely! Product innovations, media personalities and various platforms have helped in positioning men’s grooming as the accepted norm, simultaneously increasing the demand for superior products and services. This is an area which continues to grow, and changing fashion trends really help to drive this growth. Can you provide appointment booking data? Rebooking is resting at over 80% right now and from that male clientele pool, over 40% book through 12 months in advance. Approximately 20% of our male clientele have been coming to our salon for over 20 years and we have almost 400 loyal male clients. Since our salon caters unapologetically for a more niche male market (businessmen, lawyers, surgeons, doctors, architects) we opt for higher quality service results and lower volume output, which in turn means we charge higher prices that reflect our USP (Unique Service Proposition), compared to most salons within our region. For us, it’s

“Men are becoming increasingly aware of cut and styling design options, but colour has a place within the spectrum too.” always been quality over quantity. Therefore, our percentage of male clients, when compared to our percentage of female clients, sits comfortably lower than the national average for a salon (20%) simply because we choose not to chase the higher volume ‘factory’ consumer market. We use an analogy - it’s bespoke tailoring versus the ‘off-the-rack’ sweatshop approach. Have your sales risen in men’s hair products over the past few years? Definitely. L’Oréal Professionnel PlayBall Density Material and Wild Stylers Depolish have been hugely popular examples but it’s wonderful that the innovations keep rolling out and being renewed. Now we have other texturising and styling products, such as Dual Stylers, Super Dust and Beach Waves, that give us more control than ever to complete a man’s look. What are some of the key client trends you’ve seen dominate this year? CUTTING TRENDS: A striking return of the ‘French Crop’ or ‘Caesar Cut’ - a shorter look that can be adjusted to any degree of fading through the sides and back. The key design feature this season has been a cleaner, heavier, club-cut fringe and short textured layers on top. Disconnected haircuts still rule the roost, with underneath areas becoming much shorter - the bald fade.

COLOUR TRENDS: Quick, simple and precise techniques such as the ‘Brolayage’ or ‘Hombre’ have been popular, which are basically masculine versions of a balayage or ombre technique, often applied throughout the top area and classed as ‘Designer’ services. For more subtle, pinpoint focal positioning of colour, we use a technique called ‘The Shot’, which acquires its name from using a quantity of colour equivalent to the amount you would find within a shot glass. This is considered an ‘Express’ service that can be applied in a freehand fashion within a given focal point, such as a fringe, or to lighten the tips throughout the top area. STYLING TRENDS: Looser and longer quiffs which are more relaxed, and in some instances, left in a natural wave and pushed off to the side. We love this brilliant waving technique called 'Blow Folding’. After applying a styling spray, such as L’Oréal Professionnel Beach Waves, hair is blow-dried using a raking action with the hand, with the hair ‘folding’ backward over and between the fingers to create a bended shape, as the airflow from the blow-dryer travels over the top of the styled section of hair. Use L’Oréal Professionnel Super Dust for extra ‘starching’ of the hair to give longer-lasting hold and style memory. Images courtesy: Lucy Cardoza, Michael Francos, Peter Prosser and Uros Mikic. 31

FILM

PROFILE

Dirty Dancing. I'm a hopeless romantic and I love a man who can dance!

DESIGNER

Camilla. Her fabric and designs are breathtaking!

MY FAVOURITE

things

DUNEDIN STYLIST KYLIE HAYES, CO-OWNER OF MOHA HAIRDRESSING, WON THE NZ WELLA TREND VISION GOLD COLOUR AWARD IN SEPTEMBER AND RECENTLY RETURNED FROM THE INTERNATIONAL FINALS IN BERLIN. SHE SHARES HER HAIR AND FASHION LOVES.

Johnny Depp. He looks like my husband!

There are too many iconic hairdressers to mention but if there was one stand-out, it would Lisa Muscat. The texture she is creating with hair is next level!

WEBSITE

sassandbide.com/nz. Clothes shopping made too easy.

MUSIC

I'm addicted to fashion and art. 32

The romance of Paris is second to none. Or any place on earth I get to share time with my family.

ACTOR

INSPIRATIONAL HAIRDRESSERS

INDULGENCE

TRAVEL DESTINATION

I entertain everyone with my eclectic taste in music. I could happily listen to Susan Boyle all day!

RESTAURANT

Tough choice because I love food! Depot in Auckland or King of Snake in Christchurch.

HEADWAY PROMOTION

COLOUR

saviour

Raven Hair Cutter directors, Deborah and Tony Wilson, discuss the benefits of breakthrough treatment ESLABONDEXX, for ultimate hair protection and creativity during colour services.

hat are you enjoying most about using ESLABONDEXX?

Having the ability to lighten our clients hair without affecting the condition of their hair. For so long there have been huge limitations for hairdressers on how light we can take our clients’ hair and now the clients can achieve the desired colours without the damage. We now feel there are no limits.

Can you tell us a little about the technology behind the products and the results it offers? What puts ESLABONDEXX ahead of other products is that we don’t have to raise the volume of peroxide, which leaves hair in much better condition. ESLABONDEXX prevents damage before it can even start creating new bonds, while protecting the existing internal structure. The natural-origin active ingredients within ESLABONDEXX allow deep product penetration into the hair cortex, thanks to Niosome (Nio-Protect Technology). This guarantees added elasticity, strength and suppleness.

What has the feedback been like from your clientele and who would you recommend ESLABONDEXX to? Clients love the feel of their hair and are amazed at the condition after large amounts of colour work. In some cases, the hair is stronger than it was prior to colouring it. ESLABONDEXX is for people wanting to return to blonde from dark colours, for clients that have fine, fragile hair naturally that, in the past, hairdressers would have been resistant to lighten, and also clients who love their hair to be ice-blonde.

How do you think salons would benefit from offering this treatment in-salon? This product is an absolute must for all salons. There is no other

product that we have seen deliver these results. It’s like having a brand new service to offer. Financially, we have also noticed an increase, as 80% of clients choose to have ESLABONDEXX in their colours. Therefore it has increased profitability for the salon.

What do you think clients will love most about ESLABONDEXX? Being able to take their hair colours to previously forbidden territory with no damage.

Which colours are you enjoying creating for clients this summer? Beautiful, naturally toned hair, mid-browns blending into darker blondes, and mid-blondes blending into light blondes. The harshness of ombre has gone and a much more subtle blend of colours is where we are at. Also, we’re loving taking out light blondes to rosewood pinks, smoky violets and blues...and very subtle tones created from amazing toning shampoos and conditioners.

What are your best hair care tips for consumers this season? • Before getting into the pool, wet your hair completely with fresh water. This prevents the chlorinated water from penetrating into the hair. Shampoo hair once out of the water (even when wearing a cap, the water gets in). • Use treatments especially designed for your hair type. • Always use colour-protecting spray/sunscreen to stop sun fade.

Exclusively distributed by: Professional Hair Brands Phone: (+64) 7 847 8350 Email: sales@phb.net.nz www.phb.net.nz Follow us on facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz

PROFILE

Q&A HOWARD'S FAVOURITES STYLING PRODUCT: This changes for me day-to-day but right now, it is Outer Space Flexible Hairspray. FILM: World on a Wire directed by Rainer Werner Fassbinder. AUTHOR: Alasdair Gray. HOLIDAY DESTINATION: Tokyo. INSPIRATIONAL CITY: Los Angeles. ACTOR: Joaquin Phoenix. FASHION DESIGNER: Raf Simons.

oward McLaren has decades of experience in the industry, both with major brands and as an independent artist, and is known as both a trail-blazer and a visionary. His perspective has informed generations of hairdressers across multiple continents and he's often credited with re-establishing razor cutting as a true technique. After trialling some of the amazing R+Co products over the past few months, we were keen to learn more about the brand from its highly-respected co-founder.

Where did your love of hairdressing initially come from? My love of hairdressing really began when I started to see the possibilities; working in Glasgow and seeing the guys travelling to New York and London, the work that they were doing. Also, when I started to get more control of my hairdressing and making it my own.

Can you tell us about the inspiration behind the creation of R+Co? The partnership between myself, Garren and Thom Priano is known as 'The Collective'. The three of us are part of something that has never been done before. In an industry not known for collaboration, we happen to enjoy working together and sharing with one another, so we are turning the old model on its head and bringing a fresh perspective.

BACKCHAT WITH

howard mclaren The R+Co founder and hairdressing influencer talks to Headway about what makes this new-to-New Zealand brand so unique

What differentiates R+Co from other brands? I think the fact that it is based on multiple perspectives (Garren, Thom and mine). Also, hairdressers are the real heroes of this brand. This is all about creating a dialogue between the broader stylist and community. We advocate for hairdressers - and their clients - to find the point of view and style that best matches their own. The products are unique and functional; one-of-a-kind category killers. Included in the line is every single product that a hairdresser could possibly need in his or her kit. And each of those products embodies experimentation, design, artistry, passion and curiosity. It truly is a pro-shop for our industry. They also enhance the hairdresserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s relationship with clients because they are able to actually replicate what you did for them in the chair once they get home. At the end of the day, we all want to make sure

“They also enhance the hairdresser’s relationship with clients because they are able to actually replicate what you did for them in the chair once they get home.” the experience for the consumer is one that keeps them coming back because they love what we give them - and they love looking just as good as the day they left the salon. All our products are treatment-oriented, with the health of hair and scalp top-of-mind. We use unique ingredients and complexes to ensure each product delivers true benefits. And everything is formulated without parabens, sulfates (SLS or SLES), mineral oil and petrolatum. They are all vegetarian, cruelty-free, gluten-free and colour-safe. To ensure that our products look, smell, feel and perform exactly the way we intend them to, we have worked with the best of the best when it comes to perfumers, chemists and product formulators. The packaging design is also unique. R+Co is about an experience and the packaging was designed to kick-off that experience - one that was equal to the actual use of the products. We started with names that evoked a feeling, a place, a style or an attitude. We then used imagery that placed you somewhere in that moment, and hid messages about what the products do.

You’ve worked at both Toni&Guy and Bumble and Bumble as Creative Director. What have been some of your biggest career highlights? Working with Anthony Mascolo and Pat Mascolo in London. When I was at Bumble and Bumble, my razor cutting was featured in Vogue within three months of starting with them - that was a major highlight. After Bumble, I had Whitehouse, which was my own thing. It was a salon but more than that. It was an experimental collaboration with Amanda Wall where we explored new concepts of hair, photography, film and interiors to push the boundaries of what a salon could be.

And this time now has been the biggest highlight - getting to co-found R+Co and to use all my skills. It's all coming together and I feel like my entire career has been preparing me for what’s happening right now with R+Co.

What are your favourite aspects of being in this industry? Freedom. The ability to take an idea and bring it to reality.

What other creative pursuits are you involved with? I’m currently directing a feature-length documentary for Luxury Brand Partners, which is our parent company, about the industry and its future. I’ve also been writing music for our films and continuing my photography.

Who has influenced you most in your career? Antoni 'Antek' Cierplikowski. He was born in Poland in the late 1800's and founded the famous Antoine de Paris salon. He became known as Antoine and is credited with starting the fashion for short hair in the early 1900's and created the “shingle” haircut.

What can we expect next from R+Co? Collaboration with other artists and continuing with the R+Co Creative Council; a program we launched this year to create a community of top hairdressers within the R+Co network to help cultivate their careers and bring the R+Co culture into their local markets. Also, lots of education. For us, it's all about giving back to the industry by sharing our knowledge and experience with the next generation of hairdressers. 35

NZ SHOWCASE

harmony by Natasha Boustridge

INSPIRATION Yin and Yang - meaning 'dark-bright' - ignited the spark for this ultra-modern collection from award-winning New Zealand hairdresser, Natasha Boustridge. Black-white, gold-silver...opposites attract with bold simplicity in this series of stunning images. The collection is enhanced with a futuristic, other-worldly glamour that brings sci-fi and beauty together in pure harmony.

Hair: Natasha Boustridge @ Blaze. Photography: Fiona Quinn Makeup: Kath Gould using MAC Cosmetics. Styling: Natasha Boustridge Products: Redken 5th Avenue NYC. Models: Amanda Mitchell @ 62 Models, Esther Cronin and Imogen Gentles @ Clyne Model Management, Grace Thresher and Veronika Gulyayeva.

NZ SHOWCASE

a man's world by the INDUSTRY Creative Team

INSPIRATION This collaboration between the INDUSTRY Creative Team artists used mostly wigs to create an androgynous hair story. During WWII, women worked in factories producing munitions, building ships and aeroplanes, in the auxiliary services as air-raid wardens, fire officers and evacuation officers, as drivers of fire engines, trains and trams, as conductors, and as nurses. During this period, some trade unions serving traditionally male occupations, like engineering, began to admit women members .....this is the Creative Team's interpretation of those women, and the strength they portrayed during these times.

Hair: INDUSTRY Creative Team. Art Direction: Sara Allsop. Photography: Jock Robson Makeup: Paige Best. Styling: Maxine Wooldridge.

NZ SHOWCASE

stealth style by Kaleb Pritchard

INSPIRATION "Japanese yakuza, the samurai and ninja always fascinated me growing up," says Dharma stylist, Kaleb Pritchard. "I'm still inspired by the culture today, so I created a covert and stealth collection that embodied my vision of them." This led Kaleb to fuse simplicity and modern grunge with monochromatic attire for this stunning black and white collection.

Hair: Kaleb Pritchard @ Dharma. Photography: Jock Robson. Makeup: Justin Konakova. Styling: Jane Mow.

FOCUS

redken hits up

QUEENSTOWN Headway editor, Charmaine Guest, reports back from Redken Tribe 2015

n amazing weekend was had by everyone who attended the Redken Tribe Conference 2015, held this year in the idyllic playground of Queenstown. I felt very lucky to be invited once again, after having a fabulous time with the Redken team last year at Tribe Fiji. Billed as a weekend of inspiration, innovation, fun and an opportunity to meet and network with other salon owners, Tribe 2015 certainly lived up to its reputation. After three landing attempts at Queenstown Airport, I was relieved to finally touch down and make it to base camp - the Heritage Hotel - just in time for the first of the seminar speakers. Redken Artist, Rodney Wayne Creative Director and session styling extraordinaire, Richard Kavanagh, was first up, entertaining us with his life story and what continues to inspire him after more than 20 years in the industry. He also discussed in-depth the impact that hairdressers have on society, sharing some heart-warming stories that, embarrassingly, made me fumble in my bag for a tissue. A speaker that has the ability to make you laugh and cry in a mere 45 minute session is something quite special. Social media guru Rowan Spinks followed, sharing his vast knowledge in the realm of marketing solutions, using Facebook as a platform. Rowan focused on why social media is so powerful and how to use this advantageously to help grow our businesses to new heights. I lost count of how many pages of notes I took during Rowan's speech, as he offered some brilliant insights. Steve Dunstan, director of iconic Kiwi fashion label Huffer finished up, his bashfulness deemed terribly cute and endearing by all the girls in the audience. Steve talked us through the history of the brand, the highs, the lows, the importance of believing in your own vision and how

he handled some major challenges that arose within the business a few years back. It was a great day and I came away on a high. Soon after, it was time to get glam for the Saturday night Redken bash, where an evening of gourmet food, wine and great beats awaited us. People of Paris (Huffer's Steve and Stolen Girlfriends Club's Marc Moore) kept us busy on the dance floor, before Shapeshifter's P Digsss and Sam Trevethick took over. Love P Digsss - such an awesome guy - and the night gave me plenty of time to get to know some of the salon owners and new members of the Redken team better. The party continued well into the morning, with some revellers arriving back to the hotel at 6am (Queenstown nightlife goes off during ski season). After a leisurely Sunday morning and feeling surprisingly well-rested (also slightly smug I was one of the few not nursing a sore head), we piled onto the buses for a surprise day ahead. Terror ensued as we pulled into the AJ Hackett Bungy lot, but this was quickly replaced with sighs of relief as we by-passed the bridge and arrived at The Winehouse, a historic homestead with beautiful gardens and rugged scenery. Split into groups for team activities, we got our competitive edge on and vied for first place in a series of challenges; clay bird shooting (which our team kicked ass at. No thanks to me, who only scored two points, but mainly due to the fact we had Steve Dunstan and the Shapeshifter boys on our side). Wine-making was up next, as we stomped clumsily on barrels of grapes and designed our own wine label, followed by the final challenge: wine and chocolate tasting. Shockingly, for a conference mainly comprised of highly seasoned drinkers, no-one was especially good at guessing the make or the flavours of the wines but the enjoyment factor was high!

A sumptuous dinner was laid out as night fell and we were treated to the most courageous and inspiring speaker I have ever had the privilege of listening to. A promising league player in his youth, Australian John Maclean was left a paraplegic 26 years ago after a brutal accident where a truck collided with him while cycling. However, John chose never to be defined by his wheelchair. He adapted to his new life by pushing extraordinary boundaries in sporting achievement as a wheelchair athlete. He consciously challenged and changed his belief system. His journey from there has been filled with determination, perseverance, hard work and triumph. After winning silver in rowing at the Paralympics - the last of many incredible sporting quests that have seen him swim the English Channel and complete the Hawaii Ironman Triathlon John MacLean is a remarkable man. His speech was incredibly moving, and there wasn't a dry eye in the room as he finished to a standing ovation. And we weren't the only ones standing! After delivering his speech in a wheelchair, John stood to thunderous applause, after working determinedly for 2 years learning to walk again. Everyone wanted to talk with him afterwards, sharing their own stories and how much his talk meant to them. I felt privileged to talk with John and his lovely wife, Amanda, over dinner. It was the highlight of the weekend for me. Dancing and entertainment followed before heading back to the hotel for a much-needed sleep. It's sounds corny but I can't say enough good things about the Redken crew; the people, the culture and the effort they make to create a feeling of family and fun. Thanks to all the team for welcoming me once again - it was a superb weekend and I can't wait to do it again!

PROFILE

ow long has The Basement Barber been in business? The Basement is very new to the industry. We opened in February 2015, so it's 11 months in the making. Where did your love for barbering come from? Let’s just say there was a time in my life where I came to a crossroads. An opportunity arose where I would exchange cuts as a service for some people, who would then allow me to embark on a journey where I would discover a new craving that would change me forever - and I mean that in more ways than just barbering. Where do you gather your inspiration from? Social media plays a big role. Instagram is my go-to but I am also inspired by the likes of Melbourne-based Morris Motley, local stylists like Do.Hairstyling here in Christchurch and barbers from all around the world, such as Rob the Original and Pacinos The Barber. They are very different in their own way, yet they all provide that kick to jump-start the 'feel good' in all of us. Also, seeing the day-to-day man and thinking to myself, "How can I tweak his hair just enough to redirect his thoughts on how he looks and feels?"

THE

BASEMENT barber

Lucas Kelly is making a name for himself in Christchurch and beyond as one to watch in the hair industry. We talk to this up-and-coming barber about his style inspirations and future goals.

Which looks have you been getting the most requests for lately? I would have to say shaved sides (as low as a skin fade) with mid-length texture on top. This allows room to move into the likes of the disconnected comb-over or undercut, etc. I also get that classic gentlemen’s slick-back cut with a taper - the clean old-school look. What do you think are the most important skills needed to be a great hairdresser? Humility, versatility, a understanding that you are to SERVE your client with mindfulness and, of course, professionalism without being a know-it-all! What are your must-have men's hair products? There are too many to choose from but I personally like the Brelil and Jonny B brands and I am really looking forward to DMAN by De Lorenzo, which is just launching. In general, I'm a fan of products that increase volume and texture, like a sea salt spray, and water-based pomades for shine and medium hold. Beard oils and shaving cream are essential for maintenance, and you can't go past a really good men's shampoo. Which men's trends do you think will be big for 2016? I haven’t been in the industry long enough to give a definitive answer, though I can’t see short sides with length on top declining any time soon. I think maybe short sides and textured length into a fringe of some degree may come about, much like in the UK right now. But a safe answer would be that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Where do you see yourself, and your business, in five years time? Let’s just say I did not think a year ago I would have a barber studio or be travelling around New Zealand showcasing barbering and educating with Professional Hair Brands, let alone have this opportunity to be in the amazing Headway Magazine. So if in five years time I am still doing all the above (or even just still barbering) believe me, I will be very, very happy. That’s not to say I don’t have dreams and ambitions to grow, but with all that has happened of late, I couldn’t be more chuffed!

BUSINESS

conquering

SOCIAL MEDIA Bangstyle President, Ashlee Levitch, shares how best to tackle various social platforms to maximise salon success

ocial media. “I do it a bit, but I'm not sure I am doing it right.” We hear that a lot. There are so many new ways to market yourself as an artist and business, but what should you be doing, how often, when, and what are you supposed to post? Why even do it at all? Why you ask? When done well, it will help you to drive new customers into the salon. Let’s look at one of the larger population groups you may or may not be “talking” to - the “Millennial”. Currently, 50% of the population is under 30 years old. They are open to trying new things and are making their first meaningful income, AND they are on social media! 53% of Millennial’s polled would rather lose their sense of smell than lose access to social media. Add up the users on Facebook, turn that number into a population and it would be the third largest country behind China and India. Social media is now the fastest, easiest way to communicate with a large audience from anywhere at anytime. First thing to remember; it’s supposed to be fun, not stressful. As a business owner it can be daunting to wrap your head around so many sites and the commitment it takes to manage the accounts. But there are scheduling tools like Buffer and many more (including Facebook’s own scheduling tool) that you can use to make life easier. Are you a Pinterest junkie? Find yourself on a pinning spree at midnight with a glass of wine more often than you’d like to admit? Addicted to posting pics of your kids and pets on Instagram? Perfect! Start with the site you love. Build a following there and then add in a second site once that becomes part of your daily ritual. Whether it’s Facebook or Instagram, vary your posts. Experts say that by the end of 2016, 57% of consumer Internet traffic will be video-based, surpassing web browsing and email by four times. By 2018, that number will be at nearly 80%. Video feels more personal and is here to stay. Posting a blend of image and video-based content on your social profiles will help you to grow your 46

likes and followers. Facebook pushes video content into more of your followers feed than it does images or text, so post it. It doesn’t need to be professionally shot either; grab your iPhone and style away. Peer recommendations fuel social media, so video that is relatable is important. Short hairstyling videos are a great place to start. It makes you a resource. Take it one step further and use social media to engage with the local community. Despite the vastness of the web, there is a strong new culture of “Glocal”. It’s a way to take an expansive tool and utilize it to connect with those nearby. Know a business down the street with a huge following? Ask them to tell all their followers that they are doing a social media takeover on your account. Let them post on your accounts for the day. Ask them to tag people they think would love your salon. Cross-promotion within your community is a great way to bolster relationships while filling up your calendar. There are some general rules and guidelines to social sites. Create separate pages for professional use. Potential clients will think your kids are cute, but they won't book an appointment because they are. Post relevant content as well as reposting; you can (and should) utilize great content you find online. Just be sure to credit those you repost. Social etiquette is important. Consider the site you are on and how you use it. If someone is posting non-stop on Facebook, it can junk up your feed. Their algorithms sort posts, but if it’s someone you’ve engaged with recently, more of their posts will filter into your feed. We recommend two times a day for Facebook and Instagram.

A FEW TIPS FOR FACEBOOK... • Input the content you’d like to post on Facebook once a week; schedule the time and date for them to go live. • Tag others in your post for more engagement and potential shares. • Show your emotions. Emoticons increase comments on Facebook by 33%. • Keep it brief. 40 character posts received 86% higher engagement on Facebook. • Focus on seasonal, local and relevant content to

your salon. • Highlight individuals spanning from new talent to clients. Give people a reason to share your posts.

A FEW TIPS FOR INSTAGRAM... • Use hashtags. Eleven is the magic number when it comes to hashtags, getting 79.5% more engagement. • Posts with “faces” have 38% more engagement and 32% more comments. • Tag others in your posts. Re-posting is commonplace on IG. Shared posts help build your following.

A FEW TIPS FOR PINTEREST... • Post original content. 80% of pins are re-pins. Add new, fresh content. • Try posting “long-form” pins. • Create organised boards and expand your posts beyond hair. Show off the culture of your salon. Add in local community items. • Add descriptions. Pinterest will use key phrases and descriptions to filter you into tag searches. Use the resources you have around you in your everyday life. Ask your stylists to submit content to you. Give them a voice and a platform to show off their talents. Don’t have time to post at all? I would bet you have an eager assistant in the salon that has heaps of followers and is willing to add one more account to their list. Just remember to give clear posting guidelines that fit your brand.

HEADWAY PROMOTION

the ultimate

TOOL KIT

ghd session stylist, Sara Allsop, shares her favourite tools and trends she’s loving for the new season

s a ghd session stylist, what excited you about working with the brand initially?

The fashion element! This was back in 2008 or 2009 and no one in New Zealand had any real connection to international fashion weeks and leading artists. Even though ghd first introduced us to Australian Fashion Week, that was a light bulb moment for me to go further afield.

How have ghd’s tools enhanced your work, both in-salon and as a session stylist? They have made styling so much quicker. I use mine like an old-fashioned wet-set, and I can create absolutely any hair style that I like with all of them. Clients love them as they are easy for them to work with also.

The ghd platinum is known as the ultimate styler. What have you found to be the biggest benefits of this innovation? The heat styling and probably the design. Styles last longer and can be created easily, and the design is so easy to manipulate the hair with.

How did the launch of the ghd curve tools assist you and your team in your work? Again, it’s the temperature; they are quick and lasting. So clients also love them as the looks last a lot longer. I particularly like the wands for clients as they can create organic waves without too much structure.

What are you must-have tools backstage? ghd platinum, ghd mini-styler and ghd curve range (all of them!).

You’ve recently come back from showing at Salon International. Can you tell us about what you did there and some of the trends you saw coming through? We created looks direct from Paris Fashion Week, as we had just come straight off the shows there. I like to take “trends” from the runways and for me, I saw a lot of natural 70’s texture, with the casual 70’s bangs. Also, there were a lot of low pony-tails with accessories.

What kind of styles are you enjoying creating for your clients this season? Jock and I have been gone for a quarter of the year so we aren’t styling anyone at the moment! I hope to see when we get back clients having some fringes cut into their long layers. Some real 70’s beach-blonde hair colour, as we saw on the likes of Bo Derek back then, and using products that give that slightly gritty look to hair’s natural texture.

What do you think will be big in terms of cuts and colours for 2016? I definitely think fringes for the commercial clients. I love the really short mullet numbers we saw from Paul Hanlon on Ruth Bell. I had that hair style in the 80’s!

To become a ghd stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call 0800 880 209

FOCUS

game-changer FOR HAIR

Headway editor Charmaine Guest trials L'Oréal Professionnel's breakthrough new Pro Fiber range

am pretty lucky to have fairly strong, healthy hair but my regular seven-week routine of blonde highlights, along with constant blow-drying, means I need to keep on top of my at-home maintenance to ensure optimum condition. With an incredibly busy work schedule, I was delighted to have some time-out pampering at Wolf & Wolf salon in Auckland's Freeman's Bay, where director, Peter Dutton, introduced me to L'Oréal Professionnel's breakthrough innovation of the year - Pro Fiber. Peter explained how Pro Fiber was developed to stop and reverse the deterioration process, providing a long-lasting repair treatment that cares for hair like a manicure cares for hands. The treatment programme prevents multi-levels of damage across all hair types, combating dullness, dryness, splits ends (guilty of having these) and colour fade. The ground-breaking aspect of Pro Fiber is APTYL 100 - a damage-repairing molecule capable of long-lasting repair of the hair fibre. Thanks to APTYL 100, the complex can be reactivated for up to four washes and recharged at home for up to six weeks - pretty impressive stuff! After assessing my level of hair damage, Peter employed a layering technique during my gorgeous 15 minute basin treatment, applying Regenerate Long-lasting Care Activator, which contains the APTYL 100 molecular complex. This was followed by a good lathering of Reconstruct Shampoo, one of the three Pro Fiber prescriptive ranges designed for differing levels of hair damage (Recitify and Restore make up the other two). Traditionally, in-salon treatments never last, as shampoos are designed to remove everything, including active ingredients. But the difference with each Pro Fiber shampoo is that the APTYL 100 is trapped in the hair fibre, reactivating the in-salon care treatment again and again. 48

After having my newly regenerated hair beautifully styled by Peter, I was given my at-home treatments to take away: Reconstruct Shampoo, Masque and Conditioner, along with the star product; the Re-Charge Booster. Walking out, I felt a bit like a hair goddess and the compliments on how great my hair looked ensued for the next few days. Over the past month, I have diligently stuck to my Pro Fiber regime - and the compliments just keep on coming. After every fourth shampoo, I use Re-Charge booster in place of my Pro Fiber Conditioner, to prolong the effects of my initial in-salon treatment...and it's definitely working for me. The results are pretty incredible. To say my hair feels transformed would be putting it mildly - my locks feel born again - softer, smoother and way more manageable. I'm a convert!

“Traditionally, in-salon treatments never last, as shampoos are designed to remove everything, including active ingredients. But the difference with each Pro Fiber shampoo is that the APTYL 100 is trapped in the hair fibre, reactivating the in-salon care treatment again and again.”

CHARMAINE'S PRO-FIBER REGIME: Pro Fiber Reconstruct Shampoo, Reconstruct Conditioner and Reconstruct Masque.

unparalleled LUXURY

Beautiful in form and function alike, Oribe Hair Care combines high-performance with exclusive opulence for the most discerning of stylists and clients

ribe, the eponymous product line from Oribe Canales, one of the most influential hairdressers of all time, defines luxury in hair care...and this beautiful range is now finally available in New Zealand. Oribe crafts exclusive, artisanal blends of the finest hair formulations for the glamorous and hair-obsessed. Built upon a rich heritage of hairstyling, fashion and artistry, this truly luxe collection combines over 30 years of Oribeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s experience custom-blending products to create the most recognised and glamorous looks, as well as his styling heritage at the top of both the editorial and salon worlds, to deliver the highest performance products, gorgeous in function and form alike. Employing old world craftsmanship and cutting-edge innovation from the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top beauty artisans, Oribe Hair Care delivers an edited assortment of products, each one carefully chosen and designed to fulfil a specific style need. I was introduced to the entire Oribe range during a one-on-one session with D&M Hair Design's Danny Pato and Michael Sisaengrath at Mollie's Boutique Hotel. I was

mesmerised, not only by the truly beautiful packaging, but also by the fragrance of the products; all lightly scented with specially-commissioned French perfumes. In fifteen minutes, my hair had taken on a new lease of life and I was given some gorgeous products to take home specifically for my hair type; Oribe Magnificent Volume Shampoo and Conditioner, along with the product I'd been dying to get my hands on Apres Beach Wave and Shine Spray - a moisturising glamour spritz which creates naturally tousled texture and glossy shine. I've been loving it ever since. Oribe styling products focus on the demands of the most discerning; top hairstylists and their clients. Using the finest skin care ingredients and the latest advancements in hold, shine, lustre and volume, the range delivers truly original products: gels that condition, oils that hold, sprays that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t flake or clump and shampoos that prep hair for styling as well as the environment. This line is is for taste-driven individuals who know that personal style, perfectly expressed and paired with excellence, is the ultimate luxury. Oribe Hair Care is distributed in New Zealand by Boutique Brands. 49

NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… For full-bodied volume, try Davines This Is A Dry Texturizer. Ideal for restyling without washing your hair, this magic bottle gives a natural, invisible result without weighing hair down. From Boutique Brands. Affinage Black Ice Dri-Clean Dry Shampoo revives limp and oily hair with a soft, matte texture. Lightweight and residue-free, this medium-hold refresher adds new life and volume to lack-lustre locks. From Dateline. KEVIN.MURPHY DOO.OVER dry powder finishing spray forms and shapes whilst giving freedom of movement. Perfect for creating volume, texture and removing excess oil for a freshly styled, carefree look. From Crew Distributors.

Detangle With Ease

PRODUCT

watch

This high-performance brush performs precision knot-untangling and easy styling

The Knot Dr™ Pro paddle brush boasts a 240 bristle spread, allowing for maximum coverage and an easy, enjoyable detangling experience. With a durable, heat-resistant design, this high-performance brush performs precision knotuntangling and easy styling. From Professional Hair Brands.

Green Fingers The inventors of the world's first disposable nitrile glove, N-DEX now bring you GREEN-DEX™ Biodegradable Nitrile Gloves for ultimate hand protection against chemicals and oils. The gloves have the comfort, fit, dexterity and toughness you need and are reusable, but the integrated Eco Best Technology™ accelerates biodegradation in landfills to help boost your environmental performance. From Professional Hair Brands.

I See Red Fudge Professional introduce new Headpaint Oz Rocks Intense Reds. The shades can be used as demi and permanent colour and offer colourists greater choice within the reds group; from violet pink-reds, through to cherry-red violets. The intermixable colour line delivers care, exceptional results and 100% white/ grey coverage. From CS Company.

Moisture Hit Professional By Fama's 2Care Hydrate range features three products to keep hair moisturised and healthy this season. The Moisturising Shampoo, Cream Gel and Extra Shine Spray deeply nourish and protect, while offering shine, condition and strength. From Euro Salon Supplies.

The Styling Collection from RUSK Fortified with our exclusive Style+Strength Complexâ&#x201E;˘ to strengthen hair and provide superior colour and heat protection. Available from Salon Warehouse 0800 SALONW (0800 725 669) | salonwarehouse.co.nz | facebook.com/salonwarehouse.nz

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NEW PRODUCTS

2 3

3 OF THE BEST… For perfectly-styled hair, try R+Co Park Ave Blow Out Balm. This magic potion injects strands with just the right amount of body whilst protecting hair from damage. The luxe balm also coats and conditions, providing shine and bounce. Living Proof Perfect Hair Day is a 5-in-1 styling treatment that delivers smoothness, volume, conditioning, strength and polish in one step. Keeping styles fresh for longer, the solution reduces breakage by 78%. From Dateline. Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Session Label Plumping Lotion provides instant volume, but also moisturises hair with vitamins and oils. The result? Healthy, velvety body from roots to ends with increased manageability.

Cocktail Hour

PRODUCT

watch

Kérastase's next generation Fusio-Dose features concentrated, bespoke active ingredient combinations to deliver an even higher performance than ever before, with the booster dosage now multiplied by 15. Twenty tailor-made mixtures are possible to ensure the perfect treatment for any hair type, with a new flawless-fusion mixing system. Each formula, with its star active ingredient, is also presented in a new container to ensure maximum treatment efficacy.

Time To Shine

Give your style the energy it needs to last all day with TIGI S Factor Vivacious Hairspray. Offering magnificent hold and shine, this medium-hold moveable spray prevents dryness and fights frizz, while giving lasting hold you can count on. From Dateline.

Colour Me Beautiful Juuce Love Conditioning Colour Treatments welcome three new colours: Mulberry Orchid, Dusky Rose and Silver Violet. These three-minute nourishing hair treats instantly restore colour intensity and shine, and are perfect for refreshing and brightening tone in between salon visits. From Boutique Brands.

These little cans of brilliance not only blend the bad stuff in seconds, but actually fill in thinning areas

Master In Disguise Joico Tint Shot Root Concealers are perfect for covering up signs that you've missed a colour appointment. With a flash-dry formula that’s humidity-resistant and four custom-blended shades, these little cans of brilliance not only blend the bad stuff in seconds, but actually fill in thinning areas to create the illusion of thicker, fuller hair.

BLUESHIFT

INTERNATIONAL

Hair: Karine Jackson @ Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty, London Creative Direction: Errol Douglas Photography: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Stylist: Leticia Dare Makeup: Margaret Aston Products: Organic Colour Systems Assistant: Nicola Hand, Organic Colour Systems Australia 55

INSPIRATION Award-winning British hairdresser and Organic Colour Systems Ambassador, Karine Jackson, has a passion for colour and this is expertly displayed in her new collection, BlueShift. "Blueshift is a shift in the lines of an objectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spectrum toward the blue end," says Karine. "Blueshift indicates that an object is moving toward the observer. The larger the blueshift, the faster the object is moving." Taking inspiration from this physical phenomenon, Karine has created a series of looks both wearable and unique.

INTERNATIONAL

Technik Hair: Ken Picton Art Team, Cardiff, Wales. Photography: Andrew O’ Toole Makeup: Naoko Scintu. Stylist: Thea Lewis Yates. Products: L’Oréal Professionnel

INSPIRATION We love this new British Hairdressing Awards collection from the multi-award winning, Wales-based Ken Picton Art Team. Technik explores texture and colour, but also focuses on creating beautiful hair and enticing images. "We wanted to explore how light would change the fabric of hair and create a totally different feel," says Picton. "I think we've achieved what we set out to do."

INTERNATIONAL

IREZUMI Hair: Brian Gallagher @ Gallagher Horner Hair, Scotland Photography: Andrew O'Toole Makeup: Denise Rabor

INSPIRATION Based on the art of Japanese tattooing, award-winning Scottish hairdresser, Brian Gallagher, flaunts a fusion of contemporary graphic shapes incorporating fluidity and movement within his collection, Irezumi. "I wanted to craft an imprint of modernity through braiding dual texture and shadow lines to create a three-dimensional element which makes the hair really pop," says Gallagher.

a k s Na Hair: Sharon Dow @ Kevin Kahan, UK Photography: Andrew O'Toole Makeup: Denise Rabor

FOCUS

INSPIRATION "When I create a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;collectiveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; it's important for me that each image bears a strong enough identity to stand-out individually," says Sharon Dow, British Hairdressing Award finalist 2015. "With NASKA, I wanted to recreate my feelings about what is happening to the world at large environmentally, so there are hints of ice, snow, wind, rain and a little sunshine. The name NASKA was coined from the tracking paths of the NASCA lines in the desert."

BUSINESS

the year IN REVIEW Wendy Maxwell shows us the benefits of fully reviewing the year just gone to ensure your salon's future success

s 2015 rolled to an end - somewhat too fast for many of us it’s important to now press pause after the merriment has died down and take a look at what has been and start planning for 2016. At the start of the New Year, we need to look at what has worked for us, what didn’t work and why? We need to analyse our revenue streams; where did the money come from? And also, where did the money go? Only then we can decide what to repeat, change or modify this year.

LET GO OF SERVICES AND SYSTEMS THAT DON’T WORK FOR YOUR SALON ANY MORE Our clients are changing all the time and now we need to look at what exactly we are offering and ask ourselves the hard questions: • Are the services still relevant? • Are the prices charged still relevant? • Is the time taken to complete the services still relevant? • Analyse costs. • Where can you improve your business to make it more efficient and reduce expenses? 78

REVIEW YOUR 2015 MARKETING • What happened last year month by month and what were the results of your marketing strategies? • Where did you invest and did those investments bring in the expected results in retaining and growing existing clients or attracting new clients, or both? • Did you strengthen your brand? Did you grow your revenue and profit?

• Does your website list all the products and services you offer? • Is the home page current, with the right employees and salon information?

BUSINESS WEBSITE

Your website is the window to your business so it’s important that it reflects and tells the world who you are and what you do. It is great for attracting new clients and also confirming what a fantastic salon you are to existing clients.

Take a few minutes to review the content of your website for any changes that need to be made. • Look for and update old or irrelevant information.

Now start to look at your management and team structure.

YOU AND THE TEAM

“If you hire the right staff, chances are good they’ll be engaged and committed to your business and happy in their work.”

0800 169 600 • DATELINE.CO.NZ

Assess your role for 2016: • As the leader, what do you need to do more of and less of? • Who can step up? • Do you have a management succession plan or strategy? As a leader you need a helicopter view and that’s difficult if you're always working in, rather than on the salon business.

RETAINING GOOD EMPLOYEES Today more than ever, the best employees want: • Career development opportunities and a chance to grow in their chosen field: colourist, stylist, artist, photographer, makeup. • Regular feedback on how both they and the company are doing. • A chance to contribute directly to the business and be recognised for doing so. • Flexible work schedules that recognise their need for work/life balance. • A good salary or wage and an opportunity to increase it over time. • Benefits specific to their individual needs.

ENGAGING YOUR STAFF Making sure employees are committed and productive in their work will benefit you as much as it benefits them. If you hire the right staff, chances are good they’ll be engaged and committed to your business and happy in their work. But to ensure ongoing engagement, you as an employer must play a major role, particularly when it comes to communication. Consider these points: • Be clear on what your business stands for. Your company’s mission and vision and brand must be front and centre in everything you do. • Communicate well and often. Your team needs to know on a constant basis how both they and your company are doing. • Understand generational differences. To get the best out of all your employees, know what motivates different generations. • Find out what your team needs. Ask your employees on a regular basis how they’re doing, and be ready to follow up on their input. • Empower your team to do their best. Give the leadership and training to your employees so they can realise their potential. Understanding what engages staff is vital, from recruitment to training to performance reviews and beyond. It’s also much easier to retain employees who are engaged and committed to your company’s success.

TIGI

LOOK FORWARD And finally let’s look forward... • What new services/menu's will you create? • How will you increase and further improve your client relationships? • What do you want to achieve for you, your team, and your salon in 2016? Food for thought. Best wishes for a happy and profitable New Year. L'Oréal Professional Products Division Education and Development Manager, Wendy Maxwell, leads the company's Salon 360 Development Programme. Wendy has 28 years experience in the industry. Her role sees her working with salons across Kérastase, L'Oréal Professional, Redken and Matrix brands. She has worked and attended training internationally in Paris and London on business development for L'Oréal.

fatboy 66 APOLLO DRIVE, ALBANY, AUCKLAND 79

BUSINESS

o you ask yourself, “Will what I’m posting relate to my clients?” before you post anything on your Facebook page? You should be! I'm lucky to have seen first-hand how much of an impact social media can have in business, but only when it’s done right. The secret to doing well on social media is to know your clients intimately.

five essential FACEBOOK POSTS Larissa Macleman discusses how to engage your 'perfect client' on social media 80

Who is your perfect client? Do you love looking after the clients you have in your salon now? We all have clients who are never happy with what we do, but they still keep coming back and causing grief. Let’s not focus on attracting more clients like them. You can afford to be picky about who you choose to promote your business to. Build a clear picture of who your perfect client is and give them a name. Focus on why they come to your salon (and not another) and what is important to them while they are in your chair. Choose someone who already comes to your salon. It's easier to imagine a real person when creating your perfect client. Once you know who your person is, you can speak directly to them in all of your business and social media marketing.

“ Timely gives us the latest technology to take our business forward.”

What should I actually post to engage my perfect client? Managing a perfect balance between the different types of social media content can be tricky. It's really easy to get distracted by what you like; funny posts or the types of things that you and your team are interested in as hairdressers. Here are the five posts your perfect clients wants to see.

“The secret to doing well on social media is to know your clients intimately.”

HAPPENING NOW Your Facebook page should bring a little of your business personality out into the world. Let your clients see you and your team so that they can get to know you and your people. Post about what you do in your business, like your team meetings or morning teas. Show your client your business in action and your team hard at work. Share the lives that you live in your salon with your clients and potential clients.

TRENDS What’s happening out in the world of hair and hair fashion? Your clients most likely read fashion magazines but they should also be looking to you for their hair fashion inspiration. So show them! Show them you keep up with what's going on around the world by sharing it with them on your social pages.

WHAT WE DO For a client, choosing a hair salon can be a scary thing to do, but posting pictures as evidence of the real hair that you do in your salon is a vital part of building trust with your potential clients. Sharing images of the great work you do, especially before and after shots, also help existing clients get new ideas of what they can do themselves. It's a win for everyone.

INSPIRATION

People come to you to be inspired by new looks that will suit them. Inspire them with a collection of different fringes or seasonal colours. Demonstrate different ways for your clients to style their hair at home with short 'how-to' videos or step-by-step shots. Fashion comes from inspiration and hairdressing is no different.

PROMOTION What is all of this for if we can't get clients to go from being online into your styling chair? If you’ve given your audience all the value contained in the four posts above, you have every right to encourage them to come into your salon and try you out. As well as directing clients to book an appointment through your website, get your online booking app onto your Facebook page. This allows clients to make appointments with your business right from their smartphones without having to leave Facebook, increasing the amount of bookings your business receives. Without a plan, your social media message becomes confused and your potential clients won’t understand who you are as a brand. At the start of every week, put aside 30 minutes to plan and schedule your posts so that you get a good balance of different types of content throughout your week. Think about the behaviour of your perfect client throughout her week. What would they do every day and when are they active on social media? Many people check their phones before they roll out of bed. A quick check at lunch time and during the ad breaks of nightly TV is not uncommon. These are the best times to post your content. Finally, be consistent with what is working and don’t continue posting what isn’t, and your social media pages will be thriving in no time.

KARL & DANELLE RADEL, Klone Hair

9am

Wed, July 22, 2015

Appointments

Jan Evans 9:00am Straighten - $60.00

Stacey Hargreaves 9:30am Quick Trim - $60.00

10am

Alana Spencer 11:00am Color - Short - $60.00

Coﬀee Break 11:00am Alana Spencer 11:00am Color - Short - $60.00 11am

Billy Macintosh 11:30am Color - Medium - $90.00

12pm

Alexis Jeﬀerson 2:30am Color - Long - $120.00

Award-winning salon Klone Hair switched to Timely and now save hundreds of dollars every month. Find out why thousands of salons love Timely appointment scheduling, visit gettimely.com

After 20 years of owning an award-winning salon and three years running online marketing businesses, Larissa Macleman knows first-hand how hard it is to keep up with the evolving digital landscape, while keeping clients happy and looking after the day-to-day pressures of running a business. Larissa is currently the Marketing & Business Development Manager at Timely Software. larissa@gettimely.com 81

PROFILE

WORLD CLASS

education

Premier Hairdressing Academy (now PIE - Premier Institute of Education) is celebrating their 30th year in business. We spoke to Director Hamish McKay, after the opening party of their stylish new Takapuna premises, to learn more about the Academy's passion for teaching.

hat prompted the relocation to the new premises and what benefits will the new space provide for your students? Growth and diversification prompted our relocation. The former premises weren't conducive to todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs and it was becoming too small. We needed to upgrade into todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s education market and be closer to central Takapuna, where we could increase our client base and create new opportunities. We also wanted to provide an up-to-the-minute environment for students. The new premises is nearly double in size, open plan, and will host both domestic, off-job and international students. We've also incorporated Head Office into the site for more effective interaction with the day-to-day running.

What other changes have been underway that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re excited about? The introduction this year of international students and the employment of two International Managers, who market locally and overseas for students who are keen to have a New Zealand Qualification in Hairdressing that is now world-recognised. The new Qualifications in Hairdressing now offer the ability to complete The New 82

Zealand Qualification Level 3 Salon Support, and New Zealand Qualification Level 4 Emerging Stylist. We are putting together the final Qualification Professional Stylist, delivered by us, and assessed by Industry Assessors. We've also introduced Business Management Level 5 and 6 with a hairdressing flavour; a pathway for those who need to understand how business is run. New Language programmes are commencing too. It's important in terms of education that we can change direction and offer pathways into different careers or complete University Degrees if that is the student's or employer's wish.

Compared to other courses/schools in New Zealand, how is PIE unique? We're privately owned and operated, student-focused and like to think we're visionary and ahead of the game. PIE is a NZQA Category One Provider, moderated both internally and externally, and we're very supported by the industry.

What have been some of your biggest success stories? There are many success stories. Over 80% of our students have employment opportunities when they graduate from our academies...salon owners constantly want to take our students, and our students come back to us after qualifying, wanting to be employed as tutors. Our students are working behind the scenes in theatre productions, working on cruise ships and we do give those competitive hairdressers a run for their money. This year throughout the three sites, ten

of our students placed in Regional Competitions; ten then went on to the Supremes and we had first, second, third and fourth placements. What an achievement! How has the teaching/training style evolved over the decades to suit the needs of the different generations? The biggest change has been the move towards learning being timely and relevant. PIE has taken the learning out of the normal classroom environment and adopted a holistic delivery style. The learning takes place in a practical sense on the salon floor. Additional knowledge sessions are tailored to ensure the graduate has the necessary information to complete the knowledge-based assessment requirements. Self-paced learning is encouraged for everyone. PIE tutors all have the National Certificate in Adult Literacy & Numeracy Training and have completed the National Certificate in Adult Education, as well as their vast experience in the hair industry. PIE is acutely aware of the varied learning styles and abilities of its graduates. All learning is catered to these requirements, and made fun and exciting.

What do you love most about the hairdressing industry? The vibrance, the fashion, the young minds, the constant change, and of course, the creativity! We want to encourage the freedom to express yourself and determine your own destination; a career which will lead you to wherever your dream wants to take you.

AN EXCITING CAREER FOR LIFE www.premierhairdressing.ac.nz

0800 11 99 00

ENROLLING NOW! KICK START YOUR CAREER TODAY!

Crew Distributors info@crewdistributors.co.nz 0800 CREW 66 (273 966) 84

UP TO

+71%

HYDRATION INCREASE AFTER ONE TREATMENT.***

b1055.

Patented 1055 boletus extract.

Hyaluronic acid booster.

Intensive treatment in clinic + products for home

Exclusively in beauty institutes & spas.

* Ha HPM = acide Hyaluronique de Haut Poids Moléculaire / HigH Molecular weigHt Hyaluronic acid Ha bPM = acide Hyaluronique de bas Poids Moléculaire / low Molecular weigHt Hyaluronic acid. b1055 = sotHys exclusive Patented 1055 boletus extract. **tHe forMulas of tHe Hydrating range include tHree key active ingredients: tHe Patented 1055 boletus extract, low Molecular weigHt Hyaluronic acid or HigH Molecular weigHt Hyaluronic acid solution. tHe forMulas of tHe retail Products eacH include two active ingredients. *** corneoMeter MeasureMents, average on 5 PeoPle. average for tHe total Panel of 14 PeoPle: +39% **** Patented 1055 boletus extract stiMulates tHe syntHesis of Hyaluronic acid by 29% in tHe derMis. result after 10 days.

Introducing Joyce Blok’s NEW Vitamin E15%! The life saver for your skin this summer

This antioxidant & anti-inflammatory serum renews, softens and protects damaged skin from free radicals and environmental damage. Vitamin E is considered to be the ultimate lipid-soluble antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. Vitamin E provides an ideal antidote to protect New Zealand skin against daily encounters with high levels of environmental pollution, oxidation and year round UV exposure. For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok salon near you, contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz • facebook.com/joyceblok

Thank you to the following Joyce Blok salons for your invaluable feedback on our Vitamin E during the development phase, we couldn’t have done it without you! Auckland: Beauty Circle, Bounce Back To Beauty, Christine’s Health Spa & Beauty, Cinderella Beauty & Day Spa, Faye’s Beauty & Day Spa, Rosebuds Beauty Therapy, Therapie Face & Body Studio. Waikato: Annettes Electrolysis & Beauty Clinic, Envisage Beauty Therapy, Memories Beauty Clinic, Rosebuds Beauty Therapy, Soul Beauty Rooms. Taranaki: Beautylicious, Sheer Bliss Hair & Body. Manawatu/Wanganui: Bliss Beauty Therapy, Pania Ryan Beauty Retreat. Southland: Indulge Beauty Therapy. Northland: Re-Vive Beauty Therapy. Wellington: House of Beauty Day Spa, Illusions Beauty Sanctuary.

The holiday season is never complete without some couch-time and a great flick. I'm currently enjoying anything with Michael Fassbender and Julianne Moore; such gifted actors. And for a bit of eye-candy, British actor Sam Claflin. He's got that cheeky, boyish thing going on!

I adore a soak in the tub at the end of a long day - no matter the weather - and part of my ritual is the lighting of fragrant candles. This season, I'm loving ASPAR Aurora Spa Rituals Rose & Lemongrass. It has the most beautiful, calming scent.

A good face moisturiser is essential during the summer season and my go-to is DeclĂŠor Hydra-Floral 24hr Hydrating Rich Cream. It contains moisture-boosting active ingredients, including rosehip and avocado, along with neroli oil, and has a sumptuous, velvety feel that leaves my skin feeling really nourished and cared for.

editor's 4 SUMMER FAVOURITES

When I want to channel my inner cheerleader, I slick on a coat of MAC Candy Yum Yum. The bright, matte fuchsia pink always put me in a good mood and screams 'fun'.

A pop of colour on my toes is essential at all times, none more so than summer. OPI Toucan Do It If You Try It is my current shade fave, a glossy peach-tangerine.

I love to have flowers in the house all-year-round; it's such an easy way to make your home look gorgeous and is an instant mood-brightener. Pink peonies are my summer must-haves.

Headway editor, Charmaine Guest, reveals her holiday season essentials

6 9

No matter which makeup trends come and go, I'll always love lip gloss. One of my all-time favourites is MAC Lust's warm-rosy shade; it's subtle, goes with any makeup look and is an easy way to polish off your summer style.

For summer, I'm having an interlude with Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay Cologne. But Yves St Laurent Parisienne has been my signature scent for the past few years - and is still my absolute favourite.

One of my favourite books is Margaret Atwood's The Robber Bride and I try to re-read this each summer. Atwood is a literary great and this novel never gets tired for me. You haven't met a truly evil woman until you've met this book's 'villain' - Zenia.

I have been a fan of CND Scentsations Hand & Body Lotion for years. I'm currently switching between Black Cherry & Nutmeg and Cranberry, to keep my skin super-hydrated and smelling divine.

beauty 5

COLOUR POP Add a bold, bright pop of colour to your summer mani/pedi with CND's new Art Vandal Shellac Collection. Our picks for the season are Magenta Mischief, Art Basil and Digi-teal.

SHOWER AND GLOW The first ever product that uses water to promote a gradual tan, St. Tropez Gradual Tan In Shower Lotion is a unique, streak-free formulation that activates on clean, wet skin in just three minutes. This no-nonsense hero works after showering, developing gradually and deepening with regular reapplication. Add this lotion to your daily shower to build a gorgeous sun-kissed glow.

BEAUTY NEWS

Latest Trends & Products

SMOOTH MOVES A good body exfoliant is essential for summer. We love Lycon Mango & Guava Sugar Scrub from House of Camille, a luxurious spa-quality, oil-free scrub that gently exfoliates and moisturises, without leaving an oily residue. 6

THE GOOD OIL CS Company introduces beauty hero St.Tropez Self-Tan Luxe Dry Oil. With its fast-drying, non-greasy and easy-to-apply base, the oil is proven to leave skin nourished and conditioned for up to seven days, while giving limbs an instant shimmering glow. Once developed, just wash off the subtle shimmer that acts as a colour guide to reveal a lasting, streak-free, natural looking tan. Another oil on our summer hit list is DeclĂŠor Aroma Nutrition Satin Softening Dry Oil from Self Care Group. Nourishing, softening and beautifying both skin and hair, this dry oil easily penetrates the skin, leaving it supple and smooth. Featuring plant oils of camellia, sweet almond and rose, to give hair extra shine, simply apply to damp, towel-dried hair or dry ends after styling.

TO THE RESCUE Joyce Blok are excited to introduce an innovative new serum—Vitamin E 15%. Developed by one of Australasia’s foremost cosmetic chemists, Ray Townsend, this healing serum has been designed with a focus on distressed skins and contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to reduce redness and allow for protected, healthy skin all year round. The gentle gel texture melts seamlessly into skin for rapid absorption leaving skin feeling renewed, soft and cared for. From Self Care Group.

FACE FIRST Algologie Hydra Plus Rich Moisturising Cream offers an innovative answer to the need for hydration. This unctuous cream, enriched with lipidic extracts, instantly and lastingly restores moisture and replenishes dry skin. From World Beaute.

IN THE NAVY We love the striking royalglazed blue of OPI's Give Me Space from their holiday Starlight Collection. The perfect addition to this summer's on-trend boho vibe.

PENCIL POWER Make eyes pop with the two new Eye Of Horus Goddess Pencils from CS Company. The creamy, illuminating shade of Sahara Nude brightens eyes instantly and can also be used as a concealer and primer for the eye, while Selenite White awakens and enlarges tired peepers. Both pencils are ultra-smooth, safe to use on the waterline and are cruelty and paraben-free.

THE EYES HAVE IT This limited-edition ‘In the Blink Of A Smoky Eye’ kit from Jane Iredale's Holiday Beauty Collection helps you create quick and easy looks for every event of the season. Eight versatile shades and a step-by-step guide are contained within an artful travel box, complete with a mirror and dual-ended brush. From PSB.

BALMY DAYS Nourish and repair skin in need with new O Cosmedic Youth Activating Oil Balm. This corrective treatment serum utilizes rich vitamins and fatty acids to increase skin’s lipid levels and restore skin barrier protection. The balm features three new key active ingredients to the O Cosmedics range, a blend of active botanicals and a luxurious application. From Probeauty.

LASH LOVE Instantly lengthen lashes by up to 5mm with new Magnifibres Brush On Lashes from House of Camille. With the ability to create a stunning false lash effect in seconds, simply brush on the natural fibres between coats of your favourite mascara to add incredible length and volume.

BUSINESS

future

BEAUTY The New Year brings all the expectations of ‘new’ in its wake but what is the forecast for the future of our industry according to the stats? Anne O’Brien gets geeky on us, summarising global trend reports and offering some suggestions for a successful 2016

he origin of the tradition of setting New Year’s resolutions (primarily practiced in the Western Hemisphere) began in pre-Christian times with the Babylonians in March. It was changed to January in Roman times. The Romans began each year making offerings and promises to the god Janus (where the name January comes from). Janus is the two-faced god who looks backwards into the old year and forwards into the new and was also the patron of arches, gates, doors, endings and beginnings. The promises made to Janus were of a moral nature and focused on being good to other people. The emphasis was on sacrifice and service as opposed to what is reflected in the 21st century, which is more about self-improvement than looking after anyone else’s needs – an interesting reflection of our times perhaps. Why the history lesson? Well, the header does explain I’ve got my geek hat on so beware! It intrigues me that the practice of New Year’s resolutions began as a dedicating time to acts of service (our industry of course) but also the two-headed god Janus places equal emphasis on the importance of looking back as well as to the future. I believe that if we don’t learn and grow from what we have done then implement these lessons going forward, nothing changes. Your spa only gets better with change so analysing your past results (good and bad) and considering these lessons when you start making plans for 2016 is really important for you - both professionally and personally. Learn from the past to be better in the future. Most salon or spa results can be collected and analysed 8

fairly easily. Book some time out and look at reasons why you got the results you did in 2015 when planning your goals for 2016. Here are some suggestions on what you might want to think about when looking back on the year... • What was your top performing treatment and product of the year?

“Most salon or spa results can be collected and analysed fairly easily. Book some time out and look at reasons why you got the results you did in 2015 when planning your goals for 2016.” • What was the largest percentage of growth for treatment and product? • Who was your top performing staff member and why? • Who are your top performing clients and what do they have in common? • What was your most successful in-spa or online promotion? What was your most disastrous and why? •D id you have staff leave? If so, why? Gather the data and use the information to recognise what you are good at, what needs improving and also

congratulate yourself on what has grown. Growth is important as these are your areas of excellence and continuing opportunity for your business. Spend some time speaking to your clients if you can and ask what they love about your business and what they would like to see improved. What did they enjoy about 2015 and what would they like to see in 2016? Perhaps call your information gathering 'The Janus Project' and have some fun at the same time sharing the story of how we need to look back sometimes to move forward. It is hard not to take feedback personally, but it is really important to embrace the ‘focus group’ strategy without going too 80’s business consultant on you. Liken this process to a really good skin consultation. What you might think is a client concern (e.g. skin pigmentation) is sometimes way down the list of the actual client concern (they love their freckles but hate their crow’s feet). This could be the same for your business. Logistically you might think that parking is a major problem for your business but really, the noise and music is a bigger issue for you. Aesthetically you’ve channelled your inner designer and made the salon funkier but the reality is that the hot pink feature wall is not working at all. Talk to your clients about presentation, treatments, products, social media, texting, follow-up calls, newsletters, how they would describe your salon to friends and family and anything else you think might be helpful to you for 2016. You may consider your business to be an expert in one aspect, but your clients see you completely differently

“Answering questions in regards to top grossing products, treatments, wages, training, customer retention methods and business trends on a national scale is almost impossible without a national survey being completed.”

so ask the question and make sure you’re on the same page. Answering questions in regards to top grossing products, treatments, wages, training, customer retention methods and business trends on a national scale is almost impossible without a national survey being completed. Unfortunately in New Zealand, we do not gather independent information across our professional beauty market and share it. A lot of our market commentary and forecasts are based on assumptions rather than actual data. What, for instance, is the number one segment in New Zealand? What is the most popular consumer treatment in our country? Where has the growth been in the last 12 months? Where do we see future growth? We do have access to global information via the internet, our skincare houses and by commissioning research ourselves but perhaps 2016 could be the year we poll our New Zealand spa and beauty professionals and get an even better understanding of our unique marketplace? Watch this space for an update in the coming months! In the interim, the facts and figures around what the future may hold can be determined by what we see is happening overseas. The number one sector globally is anti-ageing and continues to account for 30% of take-home facial care sales. Hyper pigmentation is number two, which would 10

definitely be the case in New Zealand. Top grossing spa and salon treatments remain consistent internationally and in the following order of facials, massage, body care services and retail, followed by hair removal. I suspect that this order does not truly reflect our market, as hair removal is more likely to be a bigger financial contributor to our bottom line than body treatments in NZ salons or spas. Growth in the last 12 months has seen a slight shift to less invasive methods of warding off ageing (interesting) and an increased spend on multi-functioning products to be used at home. Hand-held devices and DIY gadgets are becoming more popular, probably due to economic downturn – lower discretionary incomes are a massive driver as always. The significant growth still sits in the anti-ageing sector by far but also, innovative natural-based products have seen a positive growth as well. Finally, reports continue to predict growth in the male market and the trend towards naturally-positioned products. These two segments have been forecasted since 2012 as the areas to watch, so not any surprises there. As always you will know your market and business better than anyone but it is good to keep your mind open (more male treatments on your menu for instance) and remain fluid with your plans. Your success is driven by customer

needs so make sure you have all this in mind when making your New Year’s resolutions for 2016. This ancient tradition takes time and consideration, but it will be worth it. Enjoy and have a safe and successful summer season Anne O'Brien has been part of the salon and spa professional community for 16 years and is a self-confessed skin care junkie.

A FACT ON THE FUTURE

While there are no statistics, new organic skincare ranges for newborns are on the rise, as are products for beard-grooming.

CMY

www.houseofcamille.co.nz Freephone 0800 406 416 Email: info@houseofcamille.co.nz

PROFILE

ASK THE

experts Kim Larsen

SKINCARE SPECIALIST

House of Camille's National Sales Manager, Kim Larsen, talks skincare myths, must-have products and how best to deal with skin concerns this season What skincare mistakes do you most commonly see?

KIM'S FAVOURITES RESULTIME Regenerating Collagen Gel, RESULTIME Vitamin C Skin Perfecting Serum, Susan Posnick Brush on Block, Medik8 Retinol Eye TR+5 Expertise Eyes, RESULTIME Multi-Corrective CC Cream.

The most common mistake is that people are not using skin-changing serums. The basics for great skin are AHA's, antioxidants, vitamin A and sunscreen. If you have to budget, spend it wisely by compromising with your cleansers and moisturisers. Cleansers are important but you can use a lower-budget cleanser and still achieve a good result. Moisturisers sit only on the epidermis of the skin and while some of the ingredients penetrate through the epidermis, the active molecules are not small enough to reach the basal cell layer where change occurs. This is where serums become key to skin change; the molecule is so small that it penetrates to the basal cell layer and beyond to stimulate the likes of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

What do you believe is one of the biggest skincare myths? That anti-ageing starts at 30+. The visible signs don't start until mid-30's but the damage is cumulative. We should be encouraging young people into good skincare routines from an early age so that we can prevent ageing in the first place. Otherwise it is like closing the gate after the horse has already bolted. My recommendation is to get clients using RESULTIME Vitamin C Skin Perfecting Serum, an SPF30 sunscreen and top up with our Susan Posnick Brush-On Block.

What do you love about the RESULTIME range and what makes it unique? I love the simplicity of the range; there is a product for every skin type and condition. What makes this range unique is that every single product contains our hero ingredient, Regenerating Collagen Gel. This is a bio-fragment of collagen, along with 15 other specialised molecules, that stimulates repair and helps correct and hydrate the skin.

Which RESULTIME product can you not live without? Regenerating Collagen Gel. I wish I had a big bath of it to soak my whole body in every day. It's a serum but it can also be used twice weekly as a gel mask.

What are the biggest skincare concerns during summer and how do you recommend addressing these concerns? The biggest concern for summer is protection. We need to protect skin from the sun but also from all the other environmental aggressors. 80% of the visible signs of ageing are environmentally-driven. My recommendations are SPF30 throughout the day, RESULTIME Vitamin C Skin Perfecting Serum for antioxidant protection and RESULTIME Hydrating Gel Cream for an intense moisture hit.

What are your essential summer beauty and makeup products? RESULTIME Micellar Water for cleansing - it's a simple and quick 3-in-1 cleanser. Regenerating Collagen Gel morning and night and Medik8 Retinol 6tr in the evening, along with Medik8 Retinol Eye TR+5 Expertise Eyes and RESULTIME Lipid Replenishing Creme. For makeup, I like RESULTIME Multi-Corrective CC Cream with Susan Posnick Loose Minerals over the top for a bit more coverage. I'll finish with Susan Posnick Brush-On Block every two hours. 12

SYLVIE’S SEASONAL MUST-HAVES

ASK THE

Sothys Desquacrem Deep Pore Cleanser; Sothys Micellar Water Sensitive; Sothys After Sun Anti-Ageing Treatment; Sothys Energizing Day Cream.

experts Sylvie Raynal

SKINCARE SPECIALIST

Scientific Director of Sothys Paris, Sylvie Raynal, shares her favourite seasonal products and the new developments in skincare she is most excited about What is your philosophy when it comes to skincare? Skincare must contribute to the improvement of skin qualities, but skincare must also help improve self-image and increase self-esteem. My philosophy is that beauty is holistic; our appearance cannot be detached from our sensations and emotions, or our relationships to others and our environment. That is why a good skincare approach has to be holistic.

What is the best beauty regime for any woman concerned about pigmentation, dark spots and wrinkles?

My advice is to use efficient anti-ageing products twice daily to limit the effect of biological ageing and the effect of the environment on your skin. You also must clean your skin carefully, morning and evening, because it helps remove pollutants and prepare skin correctly to receive care products. It's the first step of a good beauty regime. I also recommend the use of adapted scrubs once or twice a week (depending on skin type). Another tip is to drink lots of water and sleep at least 7 hours each night.

What are the latest buzz ingredients in skincare that you are excited about? More than speaking about molecules, I prefer to speak about the new biological actions that some new ingredients can propose. I think that to obtain amazing results in future, it will be interesting to act on autophagy (to reduce cell toxins) and to have an epigenetic approach (to limit the impact of the environment on genes). Improving hormesis (“skin coaching” against all stresses) will also help fight efficiently against skin damage. New actives are also able to balance the microbiome and increase the efficiency of the products. Combining these new approaches to create new products is very exciting!

What should every woman have in their beauty bag this season? For skin care this season, every woman should have: Sothys Desquacrem Cleanser, Sothys Micellar Water, an anti-ageing cream adapted to skin type or Sothys Hydra 3HA Hyaluronic Hydrating Cream or Energising Cream. I would also recommend our After Sun Anti-Ageing Treatment and Multi-action Eye Contour. For sun exposure, apply protection every two hours to be efficient.

Why is Sothys skincare so unique? Because it is founded on three pillars: innovation, excellence and ethics, and guarantees efficiency, safety and pleasure.

What is your must-have product in the Sothys range for summer? For summer, it would be Sothys After Sun Anti-Ageing Treatment. You can use it as a night cream, even if you haven't had intensive exposure. It contains powerful natural molecules that help protect DNA and stem cells and fights against ageing by limiting the effect of UV on your skin. And of course, Sothys' sun protection products in case of exposure.

When it comes to antioxidants, what are the summer essentials? During summer you can improve the action of anti-ageing products if you eat foods rich in polyphenols (red fruits), in carotenoids (apricots, melons, peaches, red peppers), in vitamin C (oranges, kiwifruit, blackcurrant) and vitamin E (vegetable oils for salads). 13

PROFILE

ath Gould is one of New Zealand's leading hair and makeup artists. Having worked with some of the world's biggest names, brands and publications, she is considered an industry expert. With a degree in Visual Arts, she has a unique and insightful approach to the creative process of producing beautiful makeup and hair. In 2013, Kath was appointed the head of the hair and makeup department for X-Factor New Zealand, a role that maintained the premium standard that has become synonymous with her name.

What led you to a career in makeup and hair? I started my working life as a photographer and a year after I moved to London, I had all my gear stolen and no insurance. I'd always loved to do makeup and had a friend staying with me who was a professional artist. She taught me the basics and helped me land my first job working for MAC. A few years later, I attended a session styling course for hair, and it all flowed from there.

What was your first ever makeup job? During the time I worked as a retail artist for MAC, I began assisting some incredible makeup artists - unpaid but I learnt so much! I also did a lot of testing with photographers. I did someÂ terrible shoots in those early days, but it's all part of the process and you learn what works, what doesn't and how to conduct yourself on-set.

ASK THE

experts Kath Gould

MAKEUP & HAIR SPECIALIST

Kath Gould shares her makeup must-haves, insider tricks and how to break into this creative field

What have been some of the biggest highlights of your career so far? My first ever shoot that I truly loved was with New Zealand photographer Jessica Sim and those images were the first I was truly happy to show potential clients. It was a real "Bam! I can do this!" kind of moment. Working with Miranda Kerr and Eva Longoria were pretty special experiences and shooting in Morocco with Fashion Quarterly was incredible.

What are some of the biggest hair and makeup mistakes you see currently? Contouring is out of control at the moment. There are a lot of natural beauties just slapping it on like heavy duty theatre makeup. There's also a lot of dodgy hair extensions out there; they are left too long and need to be cut to add volume to the hair, not long spindly length. The same can be said for natural hair; if the ends are bad then get rid of them. I once told a client to cut a foot literally off her hair, it was crazy-long and afterwards, it was still long, but big, bouncy and healthylooking.

Your favourite summer makeup and hair looks? I love a strong, vibrant lip for summer. My favourites are Lady Danger and Ruby Woo by MAC, as well as Pink Velvet by Lime Crime. Beautiful, fresh, glowing skin is also a must with some subtle highlights. On clients and models, I'm loving hair swept straight back from the face while retaining height at the top and keeping the sides close to the head.

What's your best insider trick? I love mixing essential oils with product to achieve a next-level glow. Mixing loose powder highlighters with oil and liquid highlighters can give a beautiful pop on the high points of the face without any texture or sparkle.

Which of your products get the biggest backstage workout? I go through a tonne of MAC Upward Lash Mascara, Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector and the Stila Lip & Cheek Cream Colour range.

Which product are you currently most fanatical about? Redken’s Stay High 18 gel-mousse is a great prep on damp hair for a voluminous blow-dry or to add texture and grip to very slippery fine hair. MAC's lipstick range is unbeatable as they have the best pigments and textures.

Three essential products for every woman's makeup bag? • SkinCeuticals Physical Matte UV Defense SPF50 - great for under makeup and doesn't clog pores. • MAC makeup brushes. • Shu Uemura eyelash curlers.

Tips for breaking into the industry and getting your work noticed? Social media is a great way of getting noticed, so make sure you tag your team and the brands you've used - share the love. Assist! I learned a crazy amount of skill, product knowledge and business practice just from assisting. If you do a great job and prove you're reliable and hard working, then that artist may start referring jobs that they can't do onto you. It takes time and trust. I would never send someone on one of my jobs unless I had seen first-hand what they could do, had a proven working relationship with them and know they will represent me well on-set.

KATH LOVES Stila Lip & Cheek Cream, MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick, SkinCeuticals Physical Matte UV Defense SPF50, Redken Fashion Waves 07 Sea Salt Spray, MAC Powder Brush Blush. .

KATH'S SUMMER FAVOURITES DRINK: Corona or delicious, trashy Pina Colada. MUSIC: I'm crazy about 80's music - I have a dance party in the shower every morning. But I also listen to punk, metal, hardcore and rock. BEAUTY PRODUCT: MAC Pro Longwear Waterproof Foundation great coverage and texture but you can sheer it down with a drop of illuminator or moisturiser. HAIR PRODUCT: Redken Fashion Waves 07 Sea Salt Spray, which I add to dry or damp hair, rough dry and then twist up into a knot and pin to the head while still warm. Finger brush out for beachy waves. OUTFIT: I struggle a bit with summer as I'm a total bogan and love to wear black. I've recently bought some great dresses and jumpsuits from the amazing TK Store (all in black of course). I usually wear old band t-shirts with the sleeves cut off and a skirt or jeans. HOLIDAY DESTINATION: I went to Bali this year and loved it. We stayed in Seminyak, and there's something for everyone. I also love the U.S. and would love to make it to Cuba before everything changes there.

FOCUS

summer

BODY READY Dr. Catherine Stone discusses non-surgical options for getting that bikini-body beach-worthy this season

ow ready are you to flaunt your body at the beach this season? Summer is here and with hotter days and the potential of flashing more flesh, we thought we'd update you on some of the new and proven non-surgical technologies to have you looking and feeling sizzling hot over the summer season. One of the hottest new topics is how to improve your breast shape non-surgically using a quick and simple treatment that boosts your cleavage and looks totally natural, because it's your own. The Vampire Breastlift treatment went viral on social media recently and can be used for breasts of any size or shape to enhance the 'upper pole' - the part visible in bras and bikinis - without significantly increasing size. The treatment takes around 30-45 minutes and involves taking a small sample of blood. From this, your platelets and plasma are isolated by spinning the blood in a special tube in a centrifuge and then placed into the fatty tissue of the upper pole of the breast to provide better shape and lift. Using your own platelets and plasma is a treatment called PRP, or platelet-rich plasma, and the technology has been used for over 20 years for a variety of different medical uses, including improving the survival rate of surgical fat transfer to the breast. PRP works by telling your body's stem cells to repair the tissue it is placed in, 16

increasing blood flow to the area and replenishing the cells, making the tissue not only look younger but actually 'be' younger. Sometimes a small amount of dermal filler may also be added to help give instant results, as the PRP takes 3-6 weeks to start working and can sometimes take 3-6 months to reach full effect. PRP can also be placed under the nipples to enhance and improve their sensitivity. A few tiny strategically placed injections can also be used in the genital area of both women (called the O-Shot or Orgasm-Shot) and men (the Priapus Shot) to enhance sexual enjoyment and performance. The O-Shot is also an excellent treatment for stress urinary incontinence in women - the embarrassing leaks that can limit you getting active over summer, or making you feel self-conscious when you sneeze or cough. If you're concerned about dull, crepey, sun-damaged or lined skin on the chest and dĂŠcolletage, a special type of PRP called 'Cellular Matrix' PRP helps to hydrate and thicken the skin. This treatment is fantastic to improve skin texture on the chest, neck, dĂŠcolletage and hands.

This special tube contains hydrating Hyaluronic Acid (HA) which not only attracts the water in your skin to improve its hydration, but has also been proven to make your PRP treatment last longer and have higher effectiveness. For a faster, more precise treatment, administering this Cellular Matrix PRP through a specialised mesotherapy 'gun' allows an almost painless treatment using much less product (hence less cost) than if injected normally. Results can sometimes be visible within a few weeks and continue to improve over the next few months. There can sometimes be 1-2 days where you might cover the treated areas, as it will often leave little pink marks that settle very quickly. Muffin tops and small unwanted fat deposits on the tummy, butt, thighs and underarms can be treated with Coolsculpting, a technology that 'freezes' the fat to destroy it. Each treatment takes about two hours, unless the clinic can offer two machines working on you at the same time (common in bigger clinics such as London, New York and LA). The results can take 4-6 weeks to show, as the frozen fat cells break down and are eliminated by your body. Expect some tingling and unusual sensations in the

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Summer heat means increased sweating, which is normal, but up to 10% of the population will suffer from excessive sweating which ruins clothes, limits clothing choice and is embarrassing.â&#x20AC;? treated areas in the first few weeks. While this is not a replacement for good diet and exercise, it can be an option for those who have 'hard to shift' fat deposits despite caring for their bodies. Coolsculpt is available from a handful of excellent plastic surgical clinics around NZ, including Prescription Skincare in Auckland and The Da Vinci Clinic in Tauranga. Cellulite is difficult to treat, as it is not directly related to your sub dermal fat (the fatty padding under the skin that goes up and down with weight gain and weight loss). Rather, it is thought to be due to poor lymphatic circulation resulting in a build up of toxins in the tissues. As the toxins continue to build up in the skin, the body tries to protect itself by surrounding them with fat cells almost within the skin, creating the 'orange peel' texture

of the skin. If the lymphatic drainage continues to be compromised, this cellulite can 'harden', making it much more difficult to shift. This explains why skinny girls can have cellulite while some curvy girls don't, and why liposuction doesn't treat cellulite. We have trialled many different cellulite treatments over the years and unfortunately, most of them fall short of the promises that they make - even those with good research behind them. Many will provide a temporary improvement in cellulite while having the treatments, but often the results are not sustained. Endermologie uses a combination of vacuum and rollers to 'suck' the skin and encourage both blood flow and lymphatic drainage in the area. This treatment was very popular 10-14 years ago and is still available today. How

does it work? You climb into a special body stocking, lie on a table, and your therapist runs the specialised head of the machine over the areas that need to be treated, sucking the skin up into the rollers Velashape takes it a step further and combines the vacuum and rolling head with both infra-red and bi-polar radiofrequency to heat the tissues and assist in breaking down the 'hardened' cellulite deposits. It is also meant to help with skin texture. This technology was developed by a friend of mine, so we trialled it about nine years ago when it was first developed. While we saw mild results initially, they were not sustained, and for the cost and time involved, we decided it wasn't worth it. Summer heat means increased sweating, which is normal, but up to 10% of the population will suffer from excessive sweating which ruins clothes, limits clothing choice, is embarrassing, and in worst case scenarios, can impact confidence in social situations. This condition is called hyperhidrosis and for many years, Botox has been a safe, simple, effective and almost painless treatment to bring abnormal sweating back to normal levels. A simple 20 minute treatment reduces sweating by up to 83%, and will usually last about 6-12 months. Laser companies are now looking at ways to treat hyperhidrosis more permanently with energy-based devices designed to destroy the sweat glands rather than just 'turn them down' the way that Botox treatments do. Nerves need to be heated to 60-65 degrees to destroy them effectively, so these treatments tend to require local anaesthetic and will often have more significant downtime, with soreness, swelling and temporary changes in sensation in the under arms and upper arms after treatment. For permanent results you may require between 1-3 repeated treatments, each about 3-4 months apart. Whether you're enhancing your cleavage, reducing excess fat deposits, or treating your excessive sweating, it's important you choose an experienced, caring and conscientious clinician to guide you on your improvement journey. As these are medical procedures, expect to have a thorough consult where the procedure is explained, a medical history is taken, your concerns and expectations discussed, and a consent form completed. Most good clinics will take before and after photos to show you your progress. If you eat healthy, drink lots of water, avoid smoking, and get a good amount of sleep, you've already taken a step in the right direction - and you're likely to get better results with these treatments. In saying that, it is summer, so a lovely glass of vino to wash down that delicious, healthy food is more than acceptable. Have a wonderful summer and enjoy showing off your hot summer bod! Dr Catherine Stone is the founder of The Face Place MedSpa and has trained with the pioneers of cosmetic Botox and many of the top cosmetic doctors in the world. 17

FOCUS

“My all time favourite summer vacation? Aspirationally, it would have to be the Maldives. In reality it’s the Coromandel. And did I ever learn to surf? I love the ocean so I guess surfing would be the next step. Why not?” Charmaine Guest (Editor) revealing a couple of her summer faves.

contouring is not just

FOR THE FACE

or years we have been teaching our clients how to contour the face with SPF mineral makeup and bronzers. It’s time to sharpen up your skills and add ‘beach-body-ready contouring’ to your bag of tricks as well.

Where do you start? Firstly, you will need two shades of bronzer – a lotion for the base and then a spray for defining. Secondly, you will also need to be able to identify where muscles would /should usually be found. This requires you to ask your client to flex different parts of the body so you can identify where a natural tricep or bicep might be enhanced, for example. It sounds tricky but once you get the hang of it your clients will be hooked. No more gym membership for them!

Practice makes perfect but never forget the basics of tanning to ensure your new body art skills are optimised... • Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate before you tan. • Make sure the tan is the right shade. No Donatella’s leaving your salon. • Watch the ‘grabbers’ - elbows, wrists, knees, ankles and brows! • Does your tan stain sheets? You need to know this so you can prepare your clients. • After-tanning care is essential to avoid flaking and fading. • Your tan will not stop your client burning – SPF all the way.

For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on DECLÉOR:

0800 105 107 • www.decleor.co.nz • info@decleor.co.nz •

Facebook.com/DecleorNZ 19

FOCUS

ON THE ROAD Beauty communications expert, Sharleen Singh, encourages you to ensure your clients are ready for every type of travel adventure this summer.

ravelling near or far this season, your clients will want to make sure they arrive at their travel destination looking their absolute best. Whether it be a road trip, summer wedding, island cruise or international location (dreamy), you will need zip-lock products at hand as well as some sound beauty advice for your sun bunnies. With weight, space and time restrictions to think about, make sure that you have the perfect travel programme and tips put together in time for the summer holiday season and the ensuing long weekends. Educate your clients about your selection of multi-tasking products. As well as being a great space-saver in their suitcases, these on-the-go travellers will truly appreciate the ease of only having to use one product to do it all. A great BB cream that acts as a foundation, sunscreen and moisturiser in-one is a must-have for the travel season. Instead of using a regular moisturiser and sunscreen at the end of a facial, apply a BB cream instead. Your clients will absolutely adore their flawless skin, and this simple change in your facial treatment will more than likely result in a new beauty solution for your client and a sale for your business. Win-win! Another great multi-tasking product for your frequent flyers is a moisturising mist (brilliant for air-conditioned offices as well). These fabulous products are offered as part of most of the professional ranges now and are perfect for both setting makeup and for offering a spritz of hydration in an otherwise dehydrating setting. Ensure that your salon stocks at least one type of this quick fixer as internationally they are taking off (excuse the pun) right now. With slip, slop, slap ingrained into our minds at an early age in New Zealand, wearing

sun screen is already accepted as a must-have in most households. However, there are still a startling number of Kiwi’s that still don’t use an SPF regularly. Naturally for the summer season an SPF is going to be your main focus, so for both yourself as a business owner, and your clients, we’ve put together a few facts on exactly why wearing an SPF is so important. • Sadly, New Zealand has the highest rate of melanoma in the world. • Being outside and unprotected when UV levels are high increases the risk of skin cancer. This is a fact. • A tan does not protect against DNA and skin damage – cover up! • Sunburn can still occur during cloudy days, and UV rays can penetrate walls – so ensure a good sunscreen is used every day without fail. • Even if the travel destination is the snow, you still need sunscreen! Snow and ice reflect UV rays that can damage the skin and eyes. Having these tips displayed in your salon or spa and explained at the end of every treatment (not just facials) will mean your customers will be lining up to purchase your summer sunscreen promotions and look after themselves wholeheartedly as they relax. Right through the summer season, promote travel-sized products in an on-trend pack which could double as a cosmetics bag. Some clients prefer to travel later in the season, so make sure you have your summer products available through till April. The added value from these collections won’t be missed by your clients, plus by introducing multiple products from the different brands that your salon carries, your client experiences something different and falls in love with something new. Talk about the holiday romance of the skin care variety or a taste tester for hungry and thirsty skin this summer! Have some

“Sadly, New Zealand has the highest rate of melanoma in the world. Being outside and unprotected when UV levels are high increases the risk of skin cancer. This is a fact.”

fun with how you present these new products and your clients will enjoy them as well. The beauty team at Headway talk a lot about how each season brings new products for us to review and we love it. Your clients will feel the same. The usual rich textured creams will no longer be a comfortable choice for most. Advise your customers of the alternative summer-weight options that your salon has by way of an updated “summer skin routine”. Like a wardrobe change, skin care and makeup must be reviewed each season for texture and weight. Many of the brands that you carry will have a summer alternative to your favourites and by modifying your clients existing routine, it really is of great benefit to their skin. A seasonal refresher is the perfect way to keep your clients skin radiant, plus a great way to keep them intrigued on what’s next for their skin. Don’t forget about your travel treatments! As well as suitable products to ensure that they look after their skin on the go, your clients will want to look stunning the moment they arrive at their destination. A great wax and eye package would be the perfect kick-start to a trip. Explain to your clients the convenience of eyelash tinting, with mascara easily washing off in the water - no one wants panda eyes on holiday. This, plus silky smooth legs that don’t need to be shaved every couple of days, will allow for more time to relax and enjoy. Now that you have your client's skin looking amazing for the trip and all grooming necessities covered, it’s time to encourage a couple of updates to their makeup for the season. For those who suffer from travel sickness and may end up a little green around the gills, adding a soft shimmer powder to the zip-lock is a great idea. By applying lightly on

the tops of the cheeks, bridge of the nose or lips, the shimmer works as an instant radianceenhancer, no matter how queasy they feel. A very simple addition to the makeup kit which gives good results every time. Leave long-lasting lipsticks till autumn and encourage your clients to pack a lip treatment in their carry-on bag, as well as a new shade of gloss. Lipsticks are fantastic as we know but they are very dehydrating when flying or driving for long periods. So it's back to the gloss for summer and a new selection of colours is a perfect pick-me-up as we all know. Finally, update the nail polishes for the trip as well. It’s summer and there really are no rules for colour (or colours) this year. Multi-painted ‘sunsational’ nails are very much on-trend and beautiful nails are a very achievable goal at this time of year. Explain to your clients how the increase of vitamin D during the summer means nails grow faster between November and March. More exposure to sand, salt and chlorine means nails need to be nurtured as this rapid growth occurs. Work out what is called the correct ‘working nail length’ for each of your clients and start a maintenance programme that will guarantee consistently healthy nails, especially during this peak growing time. Sun-exposed nails can go from brittle to brilliant using the right products that condition and protect the nails, so make sure these are all readily available for your clients to purchase. No matter where your clients are off to this season, ensure that you have the perfect tools to make for an easier and stress-free holiday in 2016. New products in convenient sizes and treatments that enable low-maintenance grooming will mean the holiday feeling starts from the moment they leave your capable hands for a few weeks. With some proper planning and holiday promotions, your clients will be on the road and glowing in no time!

“Talk about the holiday romance of the skin care variety or a taste tester for hungry and thirsty skin this summer! Have some fun with how you present these new products and your clients will enjoy them as well.”

FOCUS

holiday

ESSENTIALS Travel light with our pick of the best fuss-free summer skincare to keep you hydrated, nourished and looking gorgeous this season

Fleur de Mer Gentle Cleansing Oil

Create a creamy emulsion by applying this oil to your face, then adding water, for a quick doublecleanse. The unique cleanser features a blend of mild natural oils which nourish and care for skin while deeply cleansing pores like no other. From World Beaute.

Medik8 Hydr8 Day 360 Total Anti-Ageing Moisturiser

This light yet powerful and revitalising moisturiser with SPF15 sun protection, has been formulated to protect against free radical damage, deeply hydrate and leaves a matte, powder-dry finish. From House of Camille.

Jane Iredale Pommisst Hydration Spray

This innovative product combines the benefits of a long-lasting moisturiser with a light cream foundation. The unique formulation provides five targeted actions to hydrate, refresh, purify and protect the complexion. From Self Care Group.

Sothys Hydra 3HA Hydrating Gel Cream

With a light and quickly absorbed texture this pro-youthfulness hydrator offers a highly-effective formula to regenerate skin, provide radiance and lastingly restore moisture. From de Spa Cosmetics.

Naked Tan Goddess Body Cleanser

Keep cool with this ECOCERT natural and organic hydration spray, which offers the added benefit of pomegranate extract, a powerful antioxidant and UV protector. With a fresh, clean fragrance, skin is left feeling hydrated and looking dewy. From PSB.

To maintain your faux summer tan, use a gentle body wash, like Naked Tan Goddess Body Cleanser to wash away impurities without drying skin or fading your tan. Enriched with macadamia oil, aloe vera and organic coconut oil for hydration. From House of Camille.

Sothys Instant Energizing Corrector

With a micro-pigmented texture that transforms during application to adapt to all skin tones, this versatile makeup base helps erase visual imperfections for a unified complexion in one step. Coverage, hydration and a glowing skin tone made easy. From de Spa Cosmetics.

Algologie Body Plus Deep Moisturising Body Care

Moisturise and nourish the driest summer skins with this richly-hydrating body quencher. Enriched with Alaria Esculenta, a brown seaweed from the Brittany coasts, skin is left supple, soft, calm and nourished. From World Beaute.

DeclĂŠor Hydra-Floral Multi-Protection BB Cream Moisture Activator

ASPAR Rose Hydrating Facial Hydrosol

This calming hydration spray rehydrates and rebalances skin, soothing redness and sensitivity. Gentle, moisturising and ideal for all skin types, the nourishing mist can be applied over makeup and is brilliant for assisting micro-circulation. From Self Care Group.

Jane Iredale Sugar & Butter Lip Duo

For a quick beauty fix, this lip duo offers an all-natural exfoliator at one end, containing beeswax and brown sugar, and a tinted lip plumper at the other, for a natural pink glow that increases hydration and stimulates collagen. From PSB.

TREND WATCH

palm

SPRINGS

An idyllic destination with an unforgettable vintage vibe, you can’t go past the holiday haven in California’s Coachella valley – Palm Springs.

For stunning mid-century architecture, brilliant retro shopping and year-round sunshine, Palm Springs is an oasis of style. Trudi Brewer shares her favourite spots. STAY: There are 130 hotel and motel options to suit any budget, however if romance is your desire, L’Horizon Resort & Spa, The Ritz-Carlton Rancho Mirage and The Parker are pure luxury. For that fun getaway with the girls, Ace Hotel & Swim Club and The Saguaro are ideal, where staff will keep the drinks flowing, while all you have to do is party by the pool. RELAX: Famous for its natural healing spring water this is the place to relax at one of Palm Springs' famous spa retreats. My picks - Miracle Springs Resort & Spa, Two Bunch Palms Resort and Spa and The Spring Resort & Spa - each has a memorable menu of unique signature treatments. DINE:The best coffee hands down is found at Ernest Coffee. Wander downtown to Cheeky's for a big breakfast; the menu changes weekly, so be prepared to queue. Kings Highway diner serves gorgeous organic fare fresh from Coachella Valley, and Workshop restaurant has the most brilliant cocktail list. Finally, for a taste of an original 1920’s piano bar, don’t miss a meal at Melvyn’s Restaurant and Lounge. SHOP: From classic mid-century furniture and collectables, Bon Vivant and Just Modern have some of the best homewares. For vintage clothing, you could get lost for hours at Déjà vu Vintage. And don’t miss a visit to Trina Turk for divine colourful resort wear. TOURIST SPOTS: Do not leave Palm Springs without viewing the mid-century collection at Palm Springs Art Museum. To see the scale of this dramatic desert location, ride the Aerial Tramway at dusk. And just an hour’s drive from downtown Palm Springs is Joshua Tree National Park. This is where you will get close to nature and view the incredible Joshua Tree, tiny frantic hummingbirds, bighorn and the cheeky roadrunner. GETTING THERE: Palm Springs is only a two-hour drive from LA airport. For more handy travel advice visit www.visitpalmsprings.com

TREND WATCH

what's

THE GLOSS There is now a lip look for every occasion, once lips are dressed in gloss. Trudi Brewer investigates the latest trend.

ashion designers Chloe, Zac Posen and Jason Wu sent models down spring runways with an enviable shine on lips. From soft pink to a claret red, lip gloss was the ultimate show-stopper this season, and according to makeup artist extraordinaire Tom Pecheux, a slick of shine may be easy to apply, "but when it comes to gloss every detail has to be right." And that detail comes down to the formulation you choose. From lightweight liquid gloss to cream and even sheer matte, there is also a new breed of highly pigmented gloss (the season's it shade is wine) that looks more like a lipstick with the finish of a balm. Today we are spoilt for choice and with new lip finishes, there are no rules. Pecheux likes to custom-blend, highlighting gloss by using a contrasting shade. His trick: choose a slightly lighter hue and finish concentrated in the center of the lips to amplify the shine. The only rule is that clever trick of blotting the excess gently with a tissue, to stop gloss from bleeding into fine lines. This will be your best defense for keeping it in place.

“Today we are spoilt for choice and with new lip finishes, there are no rules.”

SHADE SHOPPING If a bold wine lip gloss is not an option, there are some clever colour rules to follow when shopping for the most flattering shade. The most natural look will always be a colour that is only two shades darker than your natural lip colour. A good guide to follow when choosing the right tone is: fair skin; make sure you choose a nude gloss with a pink overtone. Medium skin tones suit a brown-based rose, berry or mauve. And for those with dark skin tones, think sheer red, chocolate or plum.

GLOSS OPTIONS High-shine: By far the most exciting new finish, but it does need prep. Ensure lips are free

OUR FAVOURITES FOR THE SEASON INCLUDE: glo minerals Suede Crayon in Sorbet; Jane Iredale Lip Drink in Crush; Smashbox Be Legendary Lip Lacquer in Flushed; Osmosis Lip Glaze in Desire; MAC Lipglass in Lovechild; Murad Rapid Collagen Infusion for lips.

from dry skin and smooth. If you use a facial brush, gently go over your lips weekly, to keep them in good shape, and at night use a lip balm to nourish. To minimize the risk of gloss bleeding into fine lines, don't apply lip gloss all over lips with the wand; apply it to the middle of your bottom lip only, then rub lips together. This spreads on the perfect amount, without having to deal with goopy excess. Finally, if you are keen to test high-shine gloss again, apply a nude lip liner all over lips and then add shine. The wax from the lip pencil acts like a magnet to keep gloss in place. Cream: Known as the grown-up girl's lip gloss, a cream gloss is an ideal everyday option. This gloss leaves a healthy sheen rather than high-fashion shine and is best applied in the middle of your lip first, then blend the gloss outward, stopping short of the edge of the lips to prevent bleeding. Applied to freshly powdered lips will give lip gloss longevity. Matte: Heavy matte formulas tend to collect on the corners of the mouth and with dark shades, they can start to bleed into fine lines. The secret to keeping a matte lip impeccably maintained is to use the press and pat method. Apply lip gloss with your fingers, pressing it on lips from the middle, and then to the outer corners. Finally, tidy up the lip line with a matching liner. Make sure you apply gloss in a thin, even layer - using too much product will start to look messy, very quickly.

LIP TREATS If fine lines around the lips are holding you back from wearing gloss, Murad’s new Rapid Collagen Infusion for Lips is the perfect skin reconditioning treatment. An anti-ageing peptide and amino acid boost, it works to plump out lines and firm thin skin.

FOCUS

saving

FACE

Nothing comes close to that feel-good summer vibe, but as far as your complexion goes, the sun is still public enemy number one says, Trudi Brewer.

ummer is here and we can’t wait to soak it up. But ever-present is the sun safe message, with sunscreen at the center of that debate. Most of us have it covered from the neck up, but when it comes to our bodies, we’re not so vigilant. With New Zealand having some of the worst rates of melanoma skin cancer in the world, SPF choices should come with a checklist. First is the number debate; currently an SPF30 is recognized as the industry standard. Look out for the words ‘broad-spectrum’ - previously this was an unregulated claim, but today, sunscreens must undergo testing to ensure they provide protection against UVB and UVA rays. Scrutinize the label to find out the ingredient line-up. So how does sunscreen stop skin from burning and how does your skin respond to it? Physical screens are inorganic SPF’s and contain natural mineral ingredients, such as zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Often referred to as sunblock, they start working the moment they hit the skin. Physical sunscreens prevent UV damage by deflecting the sun, so UV rays bounce off skin before they get a chance to absorb and affect the body's DNA. Where once these creams were opaque, thick and sticky, science has taken a giant step forward, creating smaller particles of zinc that are lightweight and glide on easily. The second option, and one that comes with controversy, is chemical sunscreen. These include ingredients such as avobenzone, oxybenzone and Mexoryl SX and XL. They work by penetrating the skin (this is where the controversy lies) to act like a sponge absorbing UV rays. Chemical-based screens have had a bad rap, and while research is still ongoing, the one essential with chemical screens is that they do need to be applied 20 minutes before hitting the beach, so they can absorb and become that barrier between skin and sun. Those with sensitive skin may find chemical sunscreens the more irritating of the two.

BEYOND THE SCREEN The humble SPF has become even more desirable as a skin healer thanks to the latest research bestowing the benefits of those laden with antioxidants. Miami-based dermatologist, Leslie Baumann, says there is far more to an SPF than its protection factor. The latest buzz is around ingredients, namely topical antioxidants. “These save skin cells from a significant amount of environmental damage and work their magic by turning free radical molecules that form in the body when exposed to UV light and other environmental assaults into benign compounds, stopping them from causing inflammation, DNA mutations, and collagen loss.” Baumann's advice is to layer on an antioxidant serum under your sunscreen each morning, giving extra security to prevent wrinkles, brown spots, and maybe even skin cancer. "Once absorbed into the skin, antioxidants can last about four days. So even if you forget to apply them one morning, they go on working for you," says Baumann

SUNSCREEN TIPS 1. A bottle of sunscreen should not last for years, especially if it’s been sitting in a beach bag or kicking around the glove box. Renew your sunscreen every summer. 2. Layering is the key to great sun protection. Apply a chemical screen before you hit the beach and a physical screen over the top once you’re outside. Don’t miss those hard to reach spots: along the hairline, behind the ears, back of the neck and behind the knees. 3. Right-handed people often apply sunscreen more lightly on their left side and vice versa, so keep this in mind. 4. Be wary of relying on mists or sprays. Baumann says, “I do not recommend these as the primary mode of sun protection. First, if there’s a breeze, most of the product goes downwind and not on your skin. I also worry about inhaling these ingredients. These products are best used like a spritzer over makeup to boost sun protection during the day.”

OUR PICKS Environ RAD Antioxidant Sunscreen SPF15; HydroPeptide Solar Defense Anti-Wrinkle SPF30; Sothys Sunscreen Lotion Face & Body SPF30; Osmosis Protect Ultra Sheer SPF30.

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FOCUS

a beauty addict IN HONG KONG Beauty fanatic Anne O'Brien reports back from Cosmoprof Asia

DAY 1 November 11th 2015 - 6am Landing in Hong Kong is both an exhilarating and somewhat scary experience. Flying closely in between buildings is not quite what I expected at 6am in the morning but in anticipation of Cosmoprof Asia, this beauty addict (BA) was pumped for adventure. To be arriving Bond-girl style suddenly seemed appropriate. Of course, this is how everyone arrives in Hong Kong (as my fellow BA explained as we landed) but allow me some leverage. I was excited out of my mind. Taxi to hotel (experience), shower (essential), shuttle to convention centre (extraordinary). The sheer volume of people at the show is hard to take in after a 12-hour flight. Final number of visitors was 63,241 people. Can you believe it? It is every addict for themselves and it seems as it doesn't really make much difference whether you have pre-registered or not. The queue for your entry tag is the same - long. After 90 minutes we are duly tagged and with a directory of nearly 3,000 exhibitors from 48 different countries, there is every type of professional beauty, spa, hair and nail product (and specialist) you can imagine. Wonderful. Where to start? Well, anywhere really because each exhibition hall has something new to offer as well as some old favourites to enjoy. The breakdown of sectors goes like this - cosmetics and toiletries, packaging and OEM, beauty salon (fave), hair salon (second fave) nails and accessories, natural health and finally, the international press. You’ll be pleased to know (editor) an Aussie exhibitor had heard of Headway (bonus and very proud moment). We started in the natural health section and began a five-hour marathon of information collecting and meeting people. I had a feeling of déjà vu as I recalled my first ever Vegas Cosmoprof. Ahh, the heart palpitations – what a feeling. Best connection of the day was amika: amazing stand and really great people. Most crazy experience was the Dr Who-type moment in the equipment section and also watching a famous local 28

actress enjoy a free lash extension all caught on film. The crowd went wild when the actress arrived and the therapist had THE steadiest hand for application of the lashes I have ever seen. It was amazing. She was completely unwavering and smiling to boot. No frown lines on that beauty pro I tell you. Forehead as solid as pine! Finished the day with a visit to Shangri-La (an extraordinary hotel) and dreamt of one day swanning through the reception as guests ourselves. BA is still daydreaming about it!

“Men’s care, natural/organic and baby products are booming. Nothing new on the equipment front so New Zealand is very up-to-date. Brows are MASSIVE and Japan is leading the way in packaging.” DAY 2 November 12th - 7.30am An early start as the body clock is a little crazy but plenty of time to make plans for what we wanted to attack for the day. We were back at the show for a day of meetings with some of our wonderful suppliers. Of course, not every one of our beauty partners were there but it was good to catch up with old friends and also put faces to the names of new ones. A busy and productive day. What struck us most on day two was how organised everything was in the group pavilions. This is where areas have been installed so that small to medium-size businesses (who may not have been able to afford to exhibit) can meet with their international partners and catch up for coffee or a sandwich. It really was fabulous. Sadly for us, among the 22 countries involved in this pavilion, we were not one of

them…hmmmm something for BA to chat to John Key about perhaps? Our favourite pavilion was Germany and then Spain - very colourful and professional. Best connection of the day – too many to name, loved them all. Most unusual aspect of the day was seeing males getting permanent eyebrows tattooed (not something you'd see every day in Auckland) and a woman wrapped in gold from head to toe looking like an Alexander McQueen model circa 2003. We didn’t get to the bottom of what she was up to but she seemed happy enough. What did we learn? Men’s care, natural/organic and baby products are booming. Nothing new on the equipment front so New Zealand is very up-to-date in this department - tick. Brows are MASSIVE but not in a caterpillar way, just in sheer volume way, and Japan is leading the way in packaging. Brutal finish to day two - over 3 hour wait for cab/ shuttle back to the hotel but we’re resilient. Sore feet are easily ignored as still on a bit of a buzz from the whole day

DAY 3 November 13th - 7.30am Believe it or not, we’re flying home today! We still have so much to see and do and luckily our flight is at 6pm. Today is the day we try and visit the department stores to see what is happening out there pre-Christmas. It was mind-blowing, really something else. The sheer volume of what is happening in this busy city is hard to get your head around. Madness how quickly the time flew but we wouldn’t have missed the opportunity for the entire world. It was inspiring, affirming and amazing all in one go. Hong Kong is the place where East meets West, and we will definitely be making the effort to do it all over again next year. Hell, if we save enough pennies it could be Shangri-La here we come! The best part though of any travel for this BA is coming home to our beautiful country. Four days away and I couldn’t be happier to be home, dream of crazy Hong Kong, and sleep in my own bed.

NEW PRODUCTS

2 3

3 OF THE BESTâ&#x20AC;Ś Fleur de Mer Silky Touch Oil-Free Moisturiser provides comfort and intense hydration with a non-greasy finish. Ideal for all types, especially oily and dehydrated skin, as it emulsifies away excess oil. From World Beaute. Keep that pout intensely nourished with DeclĂŠor Luxuriant Nourishing Lip Balm. With a texture that melts on lips, shea butter and macadamia plant oils leave skin feeling soft and supple with restored comfort. From Self Care. HydroPeptide Aquaboost Oil-Free Hydrator hydrates, softens rough textures, clears impurities and fights bacteria. Soothing botanicals and free radicalquenching antioxidants promote a radiant glow. From Self Care.

Matte Redefined

BEAUTY

This season, we'll be coating our lips in glo minerals new Suede Matte Crayon colours. These saturated, long-wear shades provide intense payoff with a velvety smooth finish. Party season calls for Crush's luscious tangerine-red, while Monogram's deep pink-pearl is the perfect daytime accessory. From Self Care Group.

shelf

Users had an average of 108% increase in skin moisturisation while 76% of users described the texture of their skin as smoother and healthier

While You Were Sleeping

Sundari Neem Night Cream is an evening emollient treatment that helps restore radiant, natural lustre to the skin. In a 4-week trial, users achieved an average of 108% increase in skin moisturisation, while 76% of users described the texture of their skin as smoother and healthier looking. From Arrow Beauty.

Goddess Eyes Eye of Horus introduces their Baked Goddess trio eye shadow palettes, featuring versatile matte, satin and metallic shades. The deeply pigmented, longwearing, crease-proof formula can be used wet or dry and there are four Goddess combinations to choose from. Our favourite is the Luminous Isis palette, with a fusion of shimmering metallics. From CS Company. 30

Fresh Start Medik8 Eye Cleanse is a powerful yet gentle eye makeup remover with a micellar cleansing system to remove even the toughest waterproof mascara, without drying out delicate skin around the eyes. Chamomile and cornflower help soothe and nourish the delicate eye area, while hyaluronic acid hydrates and conditions both skin and eyelashes. From House of Camille.

Luxuriate in the experience that is NZ Spa... A range of inspirational body care products proudly made in New Zealand and infused with the silken textures and exotic fragrances of our native botanicals: Alpine Fern, Flax Flower, Pohutukawa and Wild Daisy. NZ Spa Gift Packs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the perfect client add-on

Eco-soy candle and Bath Soak

Mini Travel Kit

Distributed by NZ Spa, 09 636 1966, info@nzspa.co.nz www.nzspa.co.nz | facebook.com/nzspa

M 2 W O M A N.co.nz Januar y / Fe br uar y 2016

NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… With a peptide-rich formula developed for delicate under-eye skin, Medik8 Eyelift fights signs of ageing, combating puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles with a quickly absorbed texture full of nourishing actives. From House of Camille. Harnessing the power of pure vitamin A, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair accelerates skin renewal, reverses the effects of sun damage, improves skin tone and increases firmness. From Skin Health Experts. Resurface, clarify, brighten and smooth away the appearance of wrinkles with HydroPeptide's Power Peel Daily Resurfacing Pads. Perfect for accelerating brightening, soothing skin and quenching free radicals. From Self Care Group.

Nailing It Italian lacquer brand, FABY, introduce the Music Collection. Drawing inspiration from four music genres – pop, country, rock and soul - the range features a vibrant selection of 12 nail colours ranging from soft hues to edgier rock-inspired tones. We love Keep On The Sunny Side's lustrous peach and the velvety violet of Vincero. From Probeauty.

BEAUTY

shelf

We love Keep On The Sunny Side's lustrous peach and the velvety violet of Vincero

Holiday Hero Protect and prepare skin this summer with Decléor Aromessence Solaire Tan Activator Serum. Enriched with a cocktail of essential oils which strengthen skin cell resistance by improving its natural defense system, the serum offers a moisture-rich boost while helping to reduce reactions to sun exposure and to prevent photo-induced ageing. From Self Care Group.

A Helping Hand

ELEVEN AUSTRALIA’S Moisture Lotion Hand & Body Cream is the ideal skin hydrator. Containing coconut oil and vitamin E to fight free-radicals, the lotion also provides instant moisturisation with organic cucumber and aloe, while chamomile extract and castor oil soothe and calm skin in need of TLC. From Crew Distributors.

Serum Savvy Osmosis Replenish Antioxidant Serum is a gentle, active repair serum for all skin types. It's perfect for topping up your antioxidant army, with a liposomal delivery system of the most proven and potent antioxidants available.

natural selection?

HOW DO WE CHOOSE WHAT TO CARRY IN SPA? Anything from air freshener to shampoo can carry the label â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;naturalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. In fact, these products only need to contain a few drops of essential oils to get away with that title. Misleading and confusing, many natural products are far from nature's best offering. So what exactly is natural when it comes to cosmetics? With no legal body to regulate, natural simply means keeping ingredients as close to what Mother Nature provides as possible. However, there is much more regulation around organics and certified organic New Zealand products. If you want to be sure, look for a certified endorsement from an independent body such as BIOGROW or ASUREQUALITY (New Zealand Certified Organic). These products must contain 100 per cent natural ingredients and 75 to 95 per cent certified organic ingredients. Also, look out for the word 'Biodynamic', where farmers grow chemical-free crops that are planted and harvested with nature in mind, using the phases of the moon.

Look for our natural and organic product focus next season and read what the experts have to say.

SPA ZONE

DESERT

star The Ritz-Carlton makes its long-awaited debut in the California desert with a buzzworthy new spa

or decades, Palm Springs, California has attracted a host of Hollywood icons, serving as a hot spot for the likes of Lucille Ball and Frank Sinatra among many others. In the spring of 2014, a new star blazed into this funky desert town with the opening of The Ritz Carlton, Rancho Mirage. Located upon a bluff overlooking Palm Springs and the picturesque Coachella Valley - along Frank Sinatra Drive no less - the much-awaited resort features 224 guest rooms and suites, three swimming pools, inviting terraces and fire pits with valley views, and The Ritz Carlton Spa, wellness superstar that is making headlines in California and beyond. The stand-alone, two-level 25,000-square-foot-spa is in intended to serve both hotel guests and residents of the region, and features 15 treatment rooms with private outdoor showers and terraces, each of which is named after the gardens at the nearby Sunnylands Estate, the site of many important social events and political summits. Included are two hydrotherapy rooms, one with a Vichy shower and one with a hydrotherapy tub; two couples' rooms with a private outdoor terrace and shower; and 11 multi-purpose rooms. Eucalyptus-infused steam and sauna facilities; and alfresco relaxation area with waterfalls, plunge pools, and mountain vistas; a retail boutique; a fitness centre with indoor and outdoor yoga, meditation spaces and more, round out the spa offerings. According to Scott Lee, President of SB Architects, the spa stands out because of its unique combination of indoor and outdoor space, what he calls the "interplay between the rustic authenticity of the exterior materials, and the polished sophistication of the white interiors." A neutral palette throughout brings the two together. "A wall of glass leading to the co-ed relaxation garden nearly erases the line between indoors and out, creating an interesting connection between the sleek interiors and the rock outcroppings grouped to form a waterfall, which is the focal point of the courtyard," he says. "The dramatic, double-height entry is a glass jewel on the facade." There, spa guests follow the stairs upward and cross the space on a raised catwalk, looking down on a unique installation of 222 rough-cut quartz crystals that reflect the region's 300-plus days of sunshine. The menu is also inspired by the desert locale, the most indigenous offering being 'Spirit of the Mountains' - a 1 hour and 50 minute treatment. This indoor-outdoor spa experience incorporates Body Bliss products containing arnica flowers, lavender, prickly pear and includes a gentle body exfoliation with natural mineral salts infused with healing botanicals, a rinse in the outdoor shower, a massage with organic lavender oil and warm desert stones, and a body wrap and scalp massage with warm lavender oil. The service concludes with a healing stone to take home. "The products used in this service feature pure essential oils sourced from desert plants and botanicals," says spa director, Timothy Williams. "We wanted to keep our spa treatments relevant to the local environment, so we chose products that were not only organic, but sourced from the desert." Other locally-inspired signature services include a black diamond dust-infused Rat Pack Facial for men, referencing the region's beloved status with 1950s actors, 35

and the Quirogolf Massage, performed with heated golf balls and designed to target individual stress points, an ideal solution for those who spend the day enjoying one of the area's many courses. Another aspect of desert living is conservation, and as such, the spa embraces a green philosophy. The lighting and air conditioning are monitored for energy efficiency, and Comphy Co linens made with eco-friendly materials that require reduced drying time, are also used. "The spa is designed to save energy," says Williams. Plus, two of the most popular services, The Ritz-Carlton Facial and the Ritz-Carlton Customised Massage are performed using Body Bliss and Eminence Organic Skin Care products, respectively. Due to these efforts and more, the spa is quickly proving to be a superstar of the resort, often selling out on weekends and maxing out the spa team of 25, many of

â&#x20AC;&#x153;We wanted to keep our spa treatments relevant to the local environment, so we chose products that were not only organic but sourced from the desert.â&#x20AC;? whom are dual-certified to perform aesthetic services and bodywork, and the spa's 150 daily treatment capability. The spa team still work hard to spread the word, offering a portable scrub bar at the resort's pools and enticing guests with custom scrubs and body lotions that they can use in the spa or at home, as well as offering a value-focused Desert Escape summer menu. Future plans include connecting more with nearby residents - currently, the spa sees a breakdown of approximately 70 percent resort guests and 30 percent local guests. "We have been extremely popular with the locals," says Williams. "They are very excited to have us here and the community wants us to be successful. We have just launched a special local membership to embrace this ongoing support." Another new addition will be the debut of a salon that features valley views, allowing guests to achieve their head-to-toe pampering goals and, like the glamorous icons who helped make Palm Springs famous, always be ready for their close-up.

FROM OUR SPA TO YOUR HOME This collection of botanically active products have been developed in-spa with care and expertise by therapists at award-winning Aurora Spas around Australia. We encourage you to recreate your own spa ritual at home and relax and unwind with ASPAR. For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on the ASPAR range contact us on 0800 105 107 or email info@selfcaregroup.co.nz

FOCUS

f inding

SKIN FITNESS

THROUGH FOOD Headway shares our top ten foods for healthy, glowing skin this season

f you took a poll on the streets asking people what they believed they needed to do to maintain healthy skin, what do you think they would say? You might be surprised with the answers.

• • • • • •

“This small, tasty fruit helps prevent wrinkles, and has been shown to help prevent cancer and heart disease.”

Keep your face clean. Don't go to bed without removing your makeup. Use a good moisturiser. Always use sunscreen. Drink lots of water. Be happy.

Of course, all of these are essential, but what I'm interested in is how important diet is in assisting skin health. By taking an inside-out approach to skincare, which includes ensuring the foods we eat complement our skincare regimen, we can boost the results we are trying to achieve. Here is a recommended list of the top 10 foods to assist the health of your skin...

Blueberries:

It always amazes me that blueberries aren't compulsory eating. They are stacked full of fibre, as well as vitamins A and C, along with being delicious.. They are a brilliant source of antioxidants. Blueberries are most often eaten raw but can also be cooked, made into jam or even dried for use in tea. The ingredients contained within this beautiful blue fruit can help relieve the incidence of acne, broken capillaries or splotchy, irritated skin.

2This small, tasty fruit is loaded with Kiwifruit:

vitamin C and antioxidants, which keeps skin firm, helps prevent wrinkles, and also keeps bones and teeth healthy. The antioxidants have also been shown to help prevent cancer and heart disease.

Yoghurt:

Just one cup of natural yoghurt contains more calcium than a standard cup of milk. Calcium is vital for healthy skin, nails and teeth.

4The best source of the anti-ageing Tomatoes:

antioxidant Lycopene. Interestingly, the Lycopene in tomatoes is more easily absorbed by the body when cooked so make sure to keep a supply of tinned tomatoes, home-made tomato sauce and tomato juice as pantry supplies.

TRY THIS SKIN FITNESS MENU ENTREE: Half a dozen oysters with mirin, ginger and shallot dressing

Oily Fish:

Salmon, ocean trout, mackerel, tuna or any other fish are one of the best sources of omega-3 fatty acids, which helps keep skin plump, supple and moisturised. Oily fish also contains selenium, a mineral that protects the skin from sun exposure. Vitamin D contained in oily fish encourages strong bones and teeth. They are true super foods and we should aim to eat at least three to four portions of fish per week.

Sweet Potatoes:

Packed with the antioxidant beta-carotene, which is naturally anti-ageing, you'll probably find your kids prefer them to the standard white potatoes. Next time you're thinking of potatoes, go for the orange variety.

Shellfish:

Most shellfish, including oysters, mussels and clams are a great source of zinc which aids skin renewal and repair. Zinc also keeps your nails, hair and eyes healthy.

Spinach:

This leafy green vegetable is rich in nutrients and antioxidants. It also contains lutein, essential for eye health. Spinach is rich in vitamins B, C and E, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, and omega-3 fatty acids. It's another super food that really should be eaten every other day. It can be consumed raw in salads or sauteed in garlic as a side dish. Or try your hand at a spinach frittata or quiche.

MAIN: Grilled salmon fillet on a bed of sweet potato mash with sauteed garlic and spinach side. DESSERT: Yoghurt topped with blueberries, almond and walnut granola and shaved dark chocolate.

9You don't need to eat cupfuls of nuts Walnuts, Almonds & Sunflower Seeds:

to enjoy their many benefits including smoother, plumper skin, healthier hair, brighter eyes and strong bones. Just a small handful each day will provide the recommended daily dose of nutrients like omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E. Enjoy them raw, toasted or simply toss them into salads and pasta dishes.

Chocolate:

What's not to love about chocolate? Containing polyphenols it helps keep skin hydrated and protects against sun damage. However, not all chocolates are equal. It's only dark chocolate with at least 60 per cent cacao that is beneficial. So stock up on the dark version and eat it guilt-free, knowing that you are helping your skin at the same time.

BUSINESS

fresh

START FOR 2016 What are the internal factors holding back your beauty salon or spa's success? Take action now with Caroline Nelson's tips for a thriving business and a successful year ahead

fter letting her vent for about 10 minutes, I mentioned I had, in fact, had the best year ever, and so too had the vast majority of my clients. She was astonished and wanted to know what it was I did to get such a good result. This is what I shared with her and I hope it will help you make 2016 your best

year ever. To start with, I have a very positive attitude; yes, I know that sounds a bit trite, but it's true. The difference is that I believe a positive attitude goes hand-in-hand with always looking for better ways to do things and to correct or eliminate what is not working and not be frightened by change. I can't afford to waste time harping on about how bad things are. Rather, I clearly define where there is a problem and start working on solutions to turn things around. The business landscape has changed dramatically over the past couple of years, and therefore so too must your business strategies. However, I have found many salon and spa owners are still burying their heads in the sand in the hope that things will go back to the way they were. This is never going to happen and if you are waiting in hope, you run the very real risk of low profits or worse, going out of business. Let's start by identifying some of the internal or external factors that could be damaging or holding your business back from reaching its full profit potential. If you recognise any of these things in your business, my advice is to correct or eliminate the threat as soon as possible.

Lack of commercial planning: In this industry, like no other, more people go into business letting their heart rule instead of their head. You may recognise yourself: this is typically the therapist who starts a business with great technical ability but little or no business management acumen. Lack of experience in running a business is no excuse: sign up for a business development course, attend seminars or seek an expert's help. Think commercially and always consider, "will this turn into a profit, will this get my cash register singing?"

No business plan and no written goal plan: Most don't have a business plan because they become so overwhelmed in believing it needs to be a huge 30 to 50 page document, so it gets put into the 'too-hard basket'. This is so wrong, as even a three-page 40

plan will have enormous value because it makes you focus on all aspects of your business; not just the stylish decor but the operational elements, your goals and what needs to be implemented to accomplish them.

The wrong location: The wrong location can and will play a big part in the level of success or even if the business will stay viable. While it will be more expensive to be situated in a good location, it will often save huge marketing costs. For a business to be successful it needs to be seen, it needs good parking, good walk-by and/or drive-by traffic, and a little competition to keep you on your toes.

The wrong people: The wrong people can have the most devastating impact on any business, but particularly in the service industry. Yet I can tell you it's the single biggest issue most under-performing salons and spas face. Picking the right people at the onset is optimal but if that didn't happen, then getting rid of them as quickly and painlessly as possible is essential. Every day they are in your employ is a day you lose clients and money. Toughen up and cut out the bad apple before it spreads. If you are having trouble coming to the decision to terminate, ask yourself this question: " What is my businesses sale value?" This could be what you stand to lose if you keep this person on. It's a grim picture but it could become a reality.

Lack of record keeping and financial controls: While many think the economy is the cause of businesses failing, it's "poor financial control" and "poor strategic

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The business landscape has changed dramatically over the past couple of years, and therefore so too must your business strategies. However, I have found many salon and spa owners are still burying their heads in the sand in the hope that things will go back to the way they were.â&#x20AC;? management" that comes in higher. What often happens is these businesses simply run out of money! In a cash-based business where we get paid on completion of the treatment or product sale, and even in advance for gift voucher sales, good money management is critical. Do you know how to read a profit and loss statement or even understand what one is and how it affects your business? It is critical to know how much money you are making, if any, or how much you may be losing.

Ineffective management systems: Poor management and the lack of quality systems is another reason why so many salons and spas fail: the inability to manage staff, poor organisational skills and lack of quality training that hinders productivity and loss prevention. In the aesthetic industry we not only need to prevent loss through pilfering and shop-lifting, but also loss of sales through lack of up-selling. It's essential to implement measures to safeguard your business assets, equipment, stock, supplies, and lack of sales. Every business needs a staff policies manual so that each team member knows what is expected of them and this in turn will maintain standards at the highest level.

Marketing that fails to deliver: No matter what your location, you need to continually attract new customers - but first ensure they can find your door. Visibility builds credibility and branding is all about visibility and keeping in contact with customers. Fortunately, most of us have access to substantial databases of customers but whether these are being used to their full advantage is another matter. Having said that, our customer base is very fluid with people moving to new areas, changing jobs or priorities. Finding new business is always important but so too is keeping existing customers; develop market leadership strategies by offering treatments or products that are unique and better than your competitors.

Lack of skills and knowledge: Remember it's not just your employees who could be lacking skills and knowledge, but you too. This will be observed if you have found any of the above factors exist in your business. Start working to improve your management skills and your team's technical, customer service and retail skills. Look to your skincare houses for their support and advice. And never say, "I haven't got time; or "I can't afford

to train" because it is every employer's responsibility to train. That being said, I agree a lot of money can be wasted if you don't manage "training to profit" outcomes and implement targets to strive for.

Entrepreneurial burnout: In an industry made up of many "superwomen" trying to do it all, we see many suffer 'burn-out'. It really doesn't have to be so; learn to delegate, seek expert help and keep your passion alive by giving yourself time to learn.

The economy: While the state of the economy is an external factor that could be damaging to your business, I like to think otherwise. In fact, I believe we can use what most think of as a slow economy in our favour and I believe it's a concept I share with all my coaching clients. Using it in their favour has seen enormous growth; in fact, one client has grown her annual turnover from over $130,000 per year and is on track to reach $400,000 this financial year. My clients work to improve the above internal factors - something every salon and spa owner can do. They are then in a position to grow their business to its full potential and also pick up any customers left by business owners who have closed due to poor management and the 'economy'. So it appears that of the ten internal and external factors that can influence or damage your business, or reduce profits, nine are things you can and should correct or eliminate. These are the areas you have power over, that you can influence, change and manipulate in your favour. You can't change the state of the economy but you can change your attitude to how you adapt to it. With the ball in your court, you can have a thriving business, or it can be an underachieving business that gives you heartache and sleepless nights. Beauty industry business coach, mentor and owner of Nelson Beauty Business Management, Caroline Nelson, specialises in supporting time-poor and management-stressed salon and spa owners to build their businesses. She is known as the salon spa profit-building expert. In the last seven years, Caroline has worked with hundreds of beauty salon and spa owners in Australia and New Zealand, who have been able to grow their businesses to new heights with her assistance.

www.facebook.com/WorldBeaute Phone: 0800 33 888 3 info@worldbeaute.co.nz www.worldbeaute.co.nz 41

YOUR TOTAL

HAIR & BEAUTY

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FOCUS WATCH TREND

RAW

berrylicious

Liz Lamb explains the health benefits of nature's perfect lip stain

othing signals summer more than the taste of berries on top of a Kiwi pavlova or served with fresh cream. The natural lip staining after each bite is also a great side effect! Luckily for us, berries do more for our bodies than just tingling our taste buds and giving us the perfect raspberry pout. Berries are packed full of powerful antioxidants called ‘Anthocynanins’ which give berries their bright colours. Antioxidants are your body’s first line of defense against damaging free radicals. Free radicals come from breathing in toxins or from harmful ultraviolet rays, like the sun, and at this time of year, your body is at high risk of free radical damage. They are also created as your cells age, so they are nasty radicals rather than the fun-loving radicals from some 70s sitcom! Your cardiovascular system is particularly vulnerable to free radical damage and there have been many studies that document the benefits of berries to Cook 3 cups of fresh or frozen berries reduce this vulnerability. One particular study focused on blueberries alone with ½ cup of honey in a saucepan over and discovered regular consumption reduced the total cholesterol and a high heat until soft. Strain this berry triglyceride (sugar) levels in the blood of participants, as well as increasing mixture to get rid of the pulp and allow to the amount of ‘healthy’ HDL cholesterol. Another part of the blood, ‘lousy’ LDL cholesterol, was also protected. Damaged LDL contributes to cool. Process 1 cup natural or vanilla yogurt the blockage of blood vessels and is a factor in heart attacks, so blueberries with 1 banana in a blender and pour are a must for those who suffer from stress or not enough time to exercise. into ice cream molds or paper cups The major benefit of all berries is that they are low in ‘fructose’ the ‘fruit’ alternating layers with the berry sugar but are wonderfully sweet just the same. Your body processes berries mixture. Berry brilliant! differently than other high fructose fruits like mangoes or pears. This means that the sugar found in berries is less easily converted to fat. Think of berries as your ‘low sugar’ fruit option - delicious and nutritious There are so many uses for berries. We love making a breakfast parfait by layering muesli, fresh berries and yoghurt in a glass to create a café-style breakfast at home. Another ‘berry’ great idea is to make berry banana pops in the freezer, which are great for the warmer months, and are super-easy to prepare. Check out this clever and easy recipe. We heart berries and berries heart us…enjoy your summer.

BERRY BANANA POPS

Liz Lamb is a BSc/BCom graduate as well as a NZ representative high jumper. She is a keen foodie and baker who is passionate about helping others understand the science behind our healthy food choices. Follow her on instagram - @whysohealthy and visit her website www.whysohealthy.com