Headway Autumn 2020 Vol. 43 No. 1 by Headway Magazine

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND AUTUMN 2020 VOL.43 NO.1

Never be Afraid of Falling

NEW GENESIS

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New Zealand’s leading multi-brand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&Co. established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, St Tropez, OPI, Framar, Eye of Horus, Foil Republic, Smith & Cult, Skinnies and Lush Foils. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide.

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LUXURY FROM NATURE

for all hair types colour safe

contents Hair 10

EDITOR’S LETTER

FOCUS 20 THE FREEDOM TO BE WHO YOU

WANT TO BE: Michael Beel discusses what freedom in this industry means to him

34 NEVER BE AFRAID OF FALLING:

Kerastase introduce a hair-fall solution for a new generation

FIRST LOOK AUTUMN COLOUR: Colour trend predictions for this season & beyond

THE CREATURES: NZ Hairdresser of the Year, Danny Pato, showcases his latest collection

THE EDIT: We share eight top style tips from the catwalk

PROFILE 24 CREATIVE FREEDOM: Hair insiders share how they embrace freedom of creativity

86 FROM ITALY WITH LOVE: Stacey August talks about her passion for hair brand Kemon

INTERNATIONAL 30 HARD CANDY: By Dan Spiller 42 IDENTITY: By Cos Sakkas 56 AURA: By Sally Brooks 76 MOONLIGHT: By Angelo Seminara 90 WANTED: By Jonathan Andrews BUSINESS 100 EXPANDING YOUR TEAM: Kyra

56 Aura

Sproule talks who, when & how to hire

107

One&Only Spa

Beauty

142 NIACINAMIDE THE

RENAISSANCE: This superstar ingredient is having a resurgence

114 BEAUTY NEWS FOCUS 124 ARE TONERS STILL VALID:

We investigate the cleanse, tone, moisturise mantra

126 FREEDOM FIGHTERS: Liberate skin with our favourite serums and elixirs

128 BE DARING: Bright, bold & creative is the latest makeup forecast

132 BORN IN THE USA: A look at

what’s happening in the world’s largest skincare market

114

Beauty News 6 headway.net.nz

132 SKIN MANIFESTO: Encouraging you to embrace a new philosophy for 2020

APPEARANCE MEDICINE 134 SEXUAL REJUVENATION: Dr

Catherine Stone discusses the treatments available for men and women to get their ‘sexy’ back

WELLNESS 140 TURN BACK TIME: Dr Karen Coates explores what genetics have to do with ageing

144 MASTER YOUR HABITS: The

Essentialists explain how to supercharge your habits for greater success

HYDRASPLASH

HYDRATION THAT WON’T WEIGH YOU DOWN Just a splash of Coconut Water-infused hydration quenches fine/medium hair without weighing it down. Hair looks replenished, shiny, and healthy after just one use.

#hydrasplash Exclusively distributed by Sabre Corporation / 0800 456 426 / joico.com.au / @joicoaustralianz *When using HydraSplash Hydrating Shampoo, Conditioner, and Replenishing Leave-In, or HydraSplash Shampoo and Gelée Masque

©Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308 800.44.JOICO

HAIR Larisa Love

COLOR Larisa Love

PHOTO Hama Sanders

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2020 / VOL.43 NO.1

EDITOR Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz CREATIVE Art Director Olivia Wimsett olivia@owndesign.co.nz Beauty Writer Sharleen Singh sharleen@selfcaregroup.co.nz

As HITO Trainer of the Year 2015 & 2019, Cathy Davys’ Education Programmes are designed to give hairdressers the confidence to be on the floor earlier, to ignite passion in those who may have taken a break from their journey, and to train future masters of the industry Architectural Hair Design is for lifelong learners, those who want to be the best and have longevity in the industry. How to play it forward in your life and career. How to connect the dots in new and empowering ways

TRAINING DATES 2020 Creative Intelligence March 22-23 March - Wairarapa May 31-June 1 - Auckland September 27-28 Christchurch October 4-5 – Dunedin Train The Trainer April 5-6 – Part 1 May 17-18 – Part 2 June 21-22 – Part 3 July 5-6 – Part 4

PRINTING Print Management – Graeme Brazier Ltd gb@gbltd.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Michael Beel, Karen Coates, Sarah Dragicevich, Charmaine Guest, Shannah Kennedy, Annabelle Matson, Lyndall Mitchell, Anne O’Brien, Sharleen Singh, Kyra Sproule, Catherine Stone. ADVERTISING CONTACT charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz

Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. COVER Kérastase INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage)

EDITORIAL

CONNECT WITH US Headway Magazine @headwaymagazine

Artistic Intelligence June 14-15 – Avant Garde & Competitions

headway.net.nz EMAIL US charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz

Let’s Play July 19-20 – Advanced Up-Styling, Dress Work, Braids Bridal & more Classic To Creative Advanced Cutting September 13-14 Cathy also offers bespoke advanced education, personalised modules for salon owners, stylists, educators and their teams cathydavys.com | 027 220 9621 | cathydavys@gmail.com

HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND published by Self Care Group Ltd, 4c George Bourke Drive Mount Wellington Auckland 1060. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is

taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors. ©2020 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.

! EW N Broaden your palette with new Violet and Blue shades from the bestselling colour line, The Demi. These five hues provide true violet and blue ash undertones, ranging from cool blonde to the richest blue black. Intermix to create your own unique tone or use alone and experience the beauty of the individual shades - all with exceptional condition and shine for healthy-looking hair.

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/phb.net.nz

editor’s letter

O s mos is B lus h in

Tuli p

CK PI

ne of our inspirations for the autumn issue is freedom and what this means to people; where do they feel most free, how do they express their freedom creatively? Our industry is lucky in that we have the freedom to make people not only look amazing, but more importantly, make them feel good about themselves on the inside. Creating beautiful hair, a gorgeous new makeup look or treating someone to a massage, facial, or assisting with a skincare issue, allows us to give another person a new lease on life. That is something very special. With this in mind, we talk to some inspirational hairdressers about what freedom means to them within our industry and what keeps their passion alive. Michael Beel’s piece ‘The Freedom To Be Who You Want To Be’ discusses the importance of being true to your authentic self and the limitless opportunities available if you just put yourself out there. And by you, he means the ‘real’ you, not the person you think you should be, or who other people want you to be. The freedom of creative expression fills many pages of this edition. You’ll see the truly inspired collections of local and international hairdressers from around the world, including ‘Moonlight’ from recently crowned International Hairdresser of the Year, Angelo Seminara. We share the latest top style trends from the catwalk in ‘The Edit’ for you to create your own twist on, while ‘First Look: Autumn Colour’ showcases the hues predicted to be big this season and beyond. Hair tools, beauty and colour products are becoming more scientifically advanced with every month that goes by. More companies are striving to create haircare and skincare ranges EDITOR’S that are sustainable, natural and organic; products that are just as effective but also really care about people and the planet. We’re fortunate to have such freedom of choice in this regard and you’ll see all the latest releases and our personal favourites on these pages. We also take a look at the empowering trend of bold, bright a i s i J ewe l l e r K a l y a L y makeup in ‘Be Daring’, the best serums and elixirs for skin liberation in ‘Freedom Fighters’ and learn how men and women are getting their ‘sexy back’ in Dr Catherine Stone’s column ‘Sexual Rejuvenation’. Enjoy this issue and keep on doing whatever it is that makes you feel Eye of Horus free and inspired

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EDUCATION NATIONPART2 ivo Hair has been an operational V game changer in the hairdressing industry. Privately owned and run by

two Kiwi families, Vivo’s leadership team have continued to challenge the status quo of industry standards since they first opened salon doors 10 years ago. With no franchise model and the ability to make top-down decisions for all of its nationwide salons, co-owners Lynden and James saw immense value in an innovative idea put forward by one of their senior staff, Chrissy de Mey. Chrissy had a dream to change the face of hairdressing apprenticeships in NZ. “New Zealand is experiencing incredible growth in our industry.

Instead of importing talent, or trying to re-train established hairdressers, I saw huge value in developing upcoming stylists right from their apprenticeship.” No longer satisfied to see apprentices relegated to unending sweeping duties, Vivo saw instead the future in their emerging stylists. Through an extensive in-salon education program, in alignment with HITO requirements, incoming Vivo apprentices complete 12 weeks of comprehensive training. “This means that apprentices will swiftly and skillfully advance through the requirements of their qualification tests, under the guidance of senior Vivo staff.” Chrissy explains. An in-house assessment will test the apprentices at the end of this 12 week block, and if necessary, the 12 week block can be repeated to make absolutely certain any essential skills are perfected. “The ultimate goal,” Chrissy says, “is to get confident, emerging stylists on the floor and earning as hairdressers.”

So what does this look like from a salon level? We chat with Jade Scott, Vivo Senior Stylist and HITO Hairdressing Apprentice of the Year 2018, and Debbie Jenkins, Salon Manager at Vivo Napier, about their experiences. How long have you been with Vivo? Jade: I’ve been with Vivo for just over 3 years now. Debbie: I’ve been with Vivo for 3 years now. I started with Vivo Havelock and moved to Vivo Napier in March 2018. How did you become involved with the Vivo Apprenticeship Program? Jade: I was hungry for an apprenticeship that would give me the best education and opportunity and Vivo came with the highest recommendation from those I knew in the industry. Debbie: We implemented the program here at Vivo Napier and now have 2 amazing apprentices, Taylar and Ariana. I have really enjoyed setting goals with them and encouraging and supporting them through their apprenticeships. How was your experience with the Vivo Apprenticeship Program?

Jade: I became a stylist on the floor after my first year in salon and I became Salon Manager after my second year in salon. Vivo has been a massive catalyst or my growth in the industry! I have had incredible opportunities nationally and internationally. Vivo has given me the platform to achieve my goals and supported my journey at every step of the way. Debbie: Working on the training side, I have seen how the program works for all emerging stylists. Both Taylar and Ariana have very different natures and strengths, yet they are both very focused and engaged with their journey. Through the 12 week training programme there structure to their learning and helps them achieve their career goals. Do you believe the Vivo Apprenticeship Program opens career pathways? Jade: Absolutely! Outside of the honour of receiving 2018 New Zealand Apprentice of Year and 2017 & 2018 Next Generation Stylist of the Year, Vivo have enabled me to learn great leadership, the ability to educate and train others as well as the capability of creating art for fashion runways, editorials and live competition. Debbie: Vivo is very supportive and encouraging of apprentices, with a lot of training opportunities on offer. Their ultimate goal is to see them earning as qualified, confident stylists. How do you see the future changing for emerging stylists through the Vivo Apprenticeship Program? Why is this essential?

- Jade Scott -

“Vivo have enabled me to learn great leadership, the ability to educate and train others as well as the capability of creating art for fashion runways, editorials and live competition.”

Jade: Vivo have recognised that apprentices are the next leaders of the industry and so spend time investing in the growth and success from the very start of their time in salon. What do you think Vivo can achieve for emerging stylists that is different from other salons? Jade: Vivo can offer an unrivalled platform, offering wide ranging opportunities, far reaching

- Debbie Jenkins -

“Working on the training side, I have seen how the Vivo Apprenticeship program works for all emerging stylists. It helps them achieve their career goals!”

experience and multiple career pathways. These things are available to everyone who is willing to make use of everything Vivo has to offer. Debbie: There are many things that Vivo offers that is different from other salons. Vivo offers support to all its stylists both through organised professional development and also through having such a huge community of hairdressers to learn from. Everyone in Vivo can be in touch at any time through our online pages and there is a lot of sharing of ideas, formulas and strategies which is an extremely valuable tool for all of us. www.vivo.co.nz

IMAGE: Kevin Murphy

Hair

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Advanced ionic technology ensures 3x more hair alignment* for visibly smoother results** with 30% more shine**. #ghdhelios #queenoftheblowdry

For more information, contact your ghd area manager or phone 0800 880 209. *consumer testing vs. regular hairdryer **vs naturally dried hair

hair news Style Wise Love that effortless, air-dried look, but not the frizzy unruliness that comes with those blow-dry-free days? “Air-dry” is the new blow-dry thanks to Joico Zero Heat Air-Dry Styling Crème; the no-heat, no-hassle styler for an air-dried look with polish. The two personalized formulas - for fine/ medium and thick hair - define and enhance hair’s natural texture while keeping frizz in check all day. Just scrunch, tousle, and go! Best of all, you’ll reduce dry time, have 24-hour humidity control, gain a shine boost while you’re at it and retain smooth, beautiful frizz-free locks. joico.com.au

TIME TO CONCENTRATE

R+CO’s new Concentrates restore hair health, while targeting issues specific to client needs. Atlantis Moisturizing Concentrate increases hydration levels by 2.5 x after one application, repairing and reducing frizz for up to 4 weeks, while Gemstone Color Locking Concentrate reduces damage and repairs split ends for 4 weeks, retaining colour vibrancy for 23 washes. Volume-lovers can layer on Dallas Thickening Concentrate, to increase fullness after one application and visibly repair damage. dateline.co.nz

16 headway.net.nz

Instant Update Pureology Wind Tossed Texture Finishing Spray is an effortless way to style every day. Add texture and radiant shine in an instant with this lightweight vegan spray. Created with sunflower seed extract, hair is left with amazing volume and won’t leave your hair feeling weighed down. pureology.co.nz

The Ultimate Oil

Statement Piece Meet Aria, Comfortel Furniture’s sleek, new styling chair, perfect for breathing new life into your salon space. With curved lines and detailed piping, this salon chair fits like a hug. The seat separates from the back and arms, wrapping around for a floating, clean look. The sculptural frame and black upholstery makes for a modern yet classic look. To go more ‘refined boho’, add Comfortel’s Brass accent pieces and loads of summery lush green vegetation. Pictured here with the Matte Black Capital 5 Star Base and matching hydraulic lift. comfortel.co.nz

COLOUR CRAZED

Up your colour game with FRAMAR Maniac Mesh. Offering superior colour blocking technology and an environmentally-friendly alternative to traditional foil, Maniac Mesh provides 6x11” pre-cut reusable mesh sheets. Colour and lightener hugs the mesh strips, eliminating slippage, while the transparency allows you to see your colour processing. Plus, they’re easily folded and fantastic for spaced out highlighting. cs.co.nz

Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil is a concentrated reparative styling oil offering heat protection of up to 230°C. The formulation increases shine, softness and vibrancy whilst repairing damaged hair. It strengthens and protects the hair structure, softening and detangling for improved lustre, shine and manageability. olaplex.co.nz

RED ALERT

Well Groomed American Crew introduce their 2-in-1 Skin Moisturizer and Beard Conditioner. This lightweight product makes beards appear conditioned and softer, while hydrating the skin beneath. Ideal for men with shorter beards. Also new is American Crew Moustache Wax. Long-lasting with strong hold, this grooming must-have tames and nourishes facial hair. Perfect for men with medium to long moustaches. crewdistributors.co.nz

We’re a little obsessed with red and tangerine colours for autumn and this shade from La Biosthetique’s new Haute Lumiere collection is one of our favourites. The expressive long-haired look features a breathtaking colour effect of three radiant ginger shades that are softly blended using a freehand technique. The hair’s movement constantly gives the glorious colour fusion of vivaciously shining copper shades a new look. Love! labiosthetique.co.nz

headway.net.nz 17

hair news

Moisture Marvel When fine-to-medium hair gets thirsty, quench strands with HydraSplash, Joico’s new collection providing 24-hour hydration to replenish moisture, shine, and softness without the weight. Fine, dry, brittle hair is replenished and transformed. The line-up includes a Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner, Gelée Masque and a Replenishing Leave-In Treatment. joico.com.au

Untamed Beauty The latest addition to Davines’ More Inside family is a serum that creates texture without compromising softness or workability. This is a Texturizing Serum is perfect for creating body, structure and shape while you blow-dry. The packaging is 100% carbon neutral, including the 100% recycled plastic bottle, the bio-plastic label and the recycled FSC paper it’s gift wrapped in. be.co.nz

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KEVIN MURPHY

Colour Innovation

STYLE POWER

KEVIN.MURPHY COLOR. ME introduces their most exciting product launch to date: pH.D. An alkaline to acid pH transformer, pH.D instantly transforms permanent colour into a gentle acid colouration, creating limitless colour opportunities in the salon. From refining through to grey blending, darker or tone-on-tone colourations, pH.D gives colourists the ability to create new service opportunities while eliminating the need for multiple colour lines. More service, less inventory – one major win! Formulated with essential oils of lemongrass, sweet orange and grapefruit along with vitamin C, this miracle-in-a-bottle formula delivers the most luminous, light-reflecting, and long-lasting shine, making it a fast favourite on set of Kevin Murphy’s most recent campaign shoots. crewdistributors.co.nz

Dancoly Angel Professional have added four new styling products to their Deep Sea range. Shine Crystal Wax offers shine, texture and movement, while Setting Spray adds soft volume, structure and maintains any style. Styling Mousse provides volume and flexibility with weightless flair, while our personal favourite, Thickifier Volumising Crème lifts and defines styles, with the added bonus of body and shine. All Deep Sea products contain more than 60 kinds of minerals and 10 kinds of rare elements and micro-elements, for nourishing, strengthening and protecting. phb.net.nz

POWER UP

SALON STAPLE

Vic+ Secret Tools Color Master is a high-quality range of Balayage tools, spanning everything from tint bowls, through to master mixers and paddle brushes of all sizes. Featured is the Color Master Brush 6 piece set. Each brush has been designed with supreme precision for all colouring applications and the ergonomic design is incredible for every colouring technique. Colourists will also love the super-soft feathered bristles. phb.net.nz

New KMS ADDPOWER makes fine, fragile hair feel stronger and more resilient. ADDPOWER is enhanced with strengthening and thickening rice protein, while organic white tea extract is anti-oxidative and lightweight on fine hair. Both ingredients strengthen hair from the inside and protect it from the outside. The range includes a Shampoo, Strengthening Fluid and Thickening Spray. kmshair.com

Peachy Keen Brelil CC Colour Cream is a restoring, rinse-off colouring treatment with direct pigments. It intensely nourishes dyed hair and instantly brightens natural highlights, intensifying the brilliance of the colour. Its acidic pH makes hair silky and shiny from the first treatment. We’re loving the brand’s newest release, Coral Pink. The range includes every shade from Violet Plum, through to Chocolate Chestnut, and Blonde Ice Lime. phb.net.nz

Magic Wand Babyliss PRO GRAPHITE Titanium offers the fastest, high-quality ceramic heating elements available, providing continuous operation at maximum heat with no cooling down. This straightening and curling iron leaves hair shiny and smooth, thanks to the superlow friction material used on the upper plate and the titanium on the lower plate. Hair simply glides through the plates, whilst titanium, which is an incredibly fast conductor of heat, styles hair in one quick pass. dateline.co.nz

Crushing On… We love this look from Goldwell’s ‘Go Beyond’ Editorial Collection. Called ‘Soft Textures’, it’s all about that chill weekend vibe. That lazy, hazy, comfy, cozy feeling of a favourite sweater and jeans. From knitwear to hair, soft textures evolve from just weekend wear into a whole new fashion direction. Power pastels are not pale and timid - they are bold and have a punchy character. The Go Beyond collection celebrates hair as a natural fibre and enjoys its relaxed state; softly conditioned, loose and free. We’re coveting this look…and the vibe. goldwell.co.nz

headway.net.nz 19

The

Freedom

To Be...

HAIR focus

...Who You Want To Be Michael Beel offers his insight on what freedom in this industry means to him and the importance of staying true to your authentic self michaelbeelhair

PHOTOGRAPHY: Sharon Cox and Supplied

hat I love about our industry is that we pretty much have the freedom to be whomever we want to be, create the hair that we love and also put out in social media land the type of clients we want to attract. We work in a vibrant, creative and action-packed industry that is constantly evolving and changing and we cannot rest on our laurels. It’s so important to constantly up-skill and educate ourselves in any form and we have the freedom to take away from this the bits and pieces that work for us, our clientele and the type of work we love to do. While going on this journey of hair and education, it is vitally important we stay true to ourselves, our aesthetic and the core values that we hold dear. If you like doing undercuts, crazy colours and wearing ‘outrageous’ clothes, you are going to attract that type of clientele. If you want ombré, long layers and soft beach waves to be your money-maker then so be it. There are enough clients out there for everyone and for you to make yourself financially stable creating and servicing the type of hair you love. Does it mean you might occasionally do something you aren’t a fan of? Yes! That’s because we work with humans and can only work within the restrictions of hair length, type, porosity, etc, but most of all, we work with our clients’ wants and needs. But the old hairdressing saying of “Your clientele reflects who you are” rings true. Perhaps then I’m a middle-aged, corporate woman wanting a precision bob! (I do

love a blunt cut mind you!). Thankfully, we don’t work in a corporate environment, we don’t have to wear uniforms and we don’t have to cut/colour/style hair in one specific way. Are there core hair fundamentals and manufacturing instructions we need to follow? Yes, but that’s for our safety and confidence knowing that if we do ‘A’ we are going to get ‘B’. However, being the creative individuals we are we have the freedom to extend the rules to work with us, our clients and for the results we want. There are so many famous hairdressers in the world I follow on social media: from session artists, cutting maestros and colour wizards of all nationalities and genders, and with different looks and points of view. Most of these people are associated or sponsored by major key hair players.

FREEDOM “The power or right to act, speak or think as one wants.” Oxford Dictionary If that’s the type of work you aspire to do, please have the freedom to be your authentic self. The right company will say yes that person is us, understands our ethos, our mood and we want to work with them. In the current age of sponsored posts and hidden backhands by “influencers”,

I think the key approach here is to be authentic. Any business/corporation who says that someone of a certain ‘type’ or ‘look’ who can fit into a particular ‘box’ is the best person to teach, motivate and inspire other hairdressers is discriminatory and outdated. Before I lost 67kgs, I was once told by someone whom I looked up to that I wasn’t going to make it in the hairdressing fashion editorial world as I didn’t “look the part”. Do you know what that made me do? Prove that person so wrong. I worked my butt off perfecting my craft, building relationships with people I admired and wanted to work with (in hair, fashion, magazines or other) and set about by putting my hand up for any opportunity, nine times out of ten unpaid, that came my way. I even created those opportunities myself by cold calling/emailing saying, “I think you’re amazing and I want to work with you!” I work all the time - I’m a workaholic admittedly - but when your career is also your passion, I don’t call it work. Do I think I have more opportunities now that I’m a lot lighter than I used to be? No, but do I have more energy to do a better job and take up more opportunities if they come my way? Hell yes!! Along with my busy schedule, my job now is to inspire, motivate and educate the next generation of hairdressers to be who they want be, give them the freedom to explore themselves creatively and, ultimately, be the best versions of themselves. So I hope that they, in this uncertain crazy world, can be free to act, speak and think as one wants - all while creating beautiful hair! headway.net.nz 21

I’VE GOT NOTHING TO WEAR

La Biosthetique’s Parisian blogger, Mademoiselle Lili, broods on keeping up with the fashion marathon labiosthetiqueaus

t’s that time again: Paris Fashion Week. Whoever follows Paris Fashion Week in the media might think it’s only about catwalk fashion. Wrong! The visitors scrutinise each other as critically as the collections of the designers. Fashion Week is an exhibition of egos for all. Just like a marathon, it’s about taking part, not winning. Actually, you can pretty much wear what you want even sneakers, t-shirts and jeans if they have a Gucci, Chanel or Balenciaga label. You can also put a flower pot on your head if it matches the overall look. What you definitely can’t do is go dressed in Zara or H&M. Every year I face the same problem: what on earth should I wear? After eight years in Paris, my wardrobe contains a few expensive designer items, but not enough for a new luxury label every day for 10 days. I’ve always wondered how everyone else does it. A 29-year-old fashion trainee who earns €900 a month walks around in Saint Laurent boots worth €2500. The next day she’s wearing Jesus sandals from Isabel Marant worth anything from €500 upwards. Every day,

22 headway.net.nz

she’s got another designer bag hanging from her shoulder. Many think it was a gift. But that’s not the case. Journalists get a 30 percent discount if they’re lucky, which is just as much as the employees who work for the luxury fashion companies. In other words, the chic boots or handbags still cost as much as the average French person’s net monthly salary. You either have to be very famous or an influencer to be given luxury fashion as a gift. Gone are the days when fashion journalists were invited to weekly press sales where they could get real bargains. But buying garments at real boutique prices? I would cheekily assert that only heiresses, trophy wives or lovers, drug dealers, oil princesses or high-class “escort ladies” could afford those prices. But the French fashion mob has become inventive. “Arlettie” at the Trocadéro has a luxury bargain counter every week. For a €50 annual membership fee, you can shop for brands such as Givenchy, Fendi, Lanvin or Zadig & Voltaire, with generous discounts of up to 80 percent. I’ll warn you, this is

anything but relaxed shopping. You queue for hours and people fight over the best bargains. Does the silk blouse really fit? You have to do a striptease because there aren’t any changing rooms. But being able to take home a genuine Givenchy dress for €500 makes it all worthwhile. Additionally, in France, online shopping for second-hand luxury fashion is flourishing. It’s probably boosted by influencers and rich shopaholics whose wardrobes are apparently bulging with clothes. After all, the fashion industry is constantly bringing to market new collections and has thus rolled out a lucrative shadow market. The Parisian start-up “Vestiaire Collective” founded in 2009, has successfully advanced to Europe’s market leader within a few short years. The company made €140 million in sales in 2017 and their revenue grows every year by almost 70 percent. I often find items on “Videdressing”: whether nearly new Prada shoes or Armani sunglasses. But demand is high and the private suppliers are raising their prices accordingly. A Dutch lady in Paris had an idea I made fun of at first. She set up an online rental agency for luxury handbags (www.sacdeluxe.fr). For €80 a week, you can rent a Chanel 2.55 handbag. Okay, I thought. I’ll score points this year with a rented Hermès Birkin bag for €300 a week. Forget it! The waiting list for renting the Birkin is almost as long as that of Hermès shoppers. The question remains: what on earth should I wear?

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

hair focus

LIGHTER AND FASTER

New ghd helios professional hairdryer with lightweight, brushless motor creates a powerful airflow travelling at 120km/h to drastically speed up blow-dry time*. #ghdhelios #queenoftheblowdry

For more information, contact your ghd area manager or phone 0800 880 209. *consumer testing vs. regular hairdryer

HAIR profile

CREATIVE FREEDOM Hair insiders share their passion for our industry and how they embrace freedom of creativity

Danny Pato

D&M HAIR DESIGN

What drives your passion for hairdressing? Expressing my creativity every day as a hairdresser practicing my craft on the salon floor.

How do you personally embrace freedom of creativity? I’m a storyteller…and I’m a details person. I don’t follow trends; I’m probably more anti-trend. I try to create things that didn’t exist before. I rely on classic skills and add my twist to them. And I never give up pushing myself outside of my comfort zone.

What’s inspiring you for 2020?

@dannypatohair

It’s always changing! For the collection I just launched, The Creatures, I was inspired by Persephone, Queen of the Underworld. She was the ruler of crawling, buzzing insects and the daughter of Zeus in Greek mythology; a powerful, beautiful, all-knowing queen who delivered curses to dead men’s souls. Hair-wise, I was inspired by the idea of a dark halo. I played with this in creating all of the hair looks, something glowing or growing above the hair.

plants and water, the quiet and my boys (my husband Ryland and dog Bruiser).

Which hairdressing icon do you most admire for their creativity? That’s impossible to answer, there are so many! I just got back from Spain where I was a top-3 finalist for International Hairdresser of the Year 2020 (with Angelo Seminara who won, and Sally Brooks), and it was a dream come true getting to spend one-onone time with so many icons like Robert Lobetta, Anthony Mascolo, Mark Leeson, Sam Villa, Trevor Sorbie, Tabitha Coffey and many other mind-blowing talents.

@dannypatohair

What is the one hair product/ colour you’re obsessing over right now? I’m obsessed with Davines View. It’s their new glossdemi with olive oil that leaves hair so soft and shiny. My favourite shades are 9.22 and 9.32 for blonde toners, and 6.18 for a cool chocolate refresh.

What does freedom in this industry mean to you? Freedom to do what we love, to dress and express how we feel, to listen to the music that inspires us and to form incredible connections with our clients and fellow artists.

What or where makes you feel most free? It sounds so normal but being at home! It’s probably like that for most hairdressers when we’re around so much people energy all day. I love being at home with the @dannypatohair 24 headway.net.nz

Headway | PROMOTION @bronwyn_toniandguynz

Tanya Wiperi

ASSOCIATES HAIR

What drives your passion for hairdressing? Being able to be creative, helping my clients feel great and bring out their individual style. Being in a smaller town where everyone knows everyone, we get to know our clients well. I don’t feel like it’s work when I see one of our clients leave with a smile – it’s the best.

How do you personally embrace freedom of creativity? By trying new

Bronwyn Illingworth TONI&GUY

What drives your passion for hairdressing? The thing that excites me and makes me passionate about hairdressing is that it’s continually evolving. There are new trends, tools, and products to play with that makes me enthusiastic about the profession. The definitive moment for me is seeing a client’s face light up once they have their completed look.

How do you personally embrace freedom of creativity? By giving myself the space to become immersed in the creative moment. And when I’m in one of those moments, not allowing life’s judgements to hinder the outcome that I’m looking for.

What’s inspiring you for 2020? I’m loving the diversity in fashion - it brings a simplicity back to hair that’s really clever. I’m also loving the chromatic colour palette.

get an amazing end result. Presently Indira Schauwecker, Eugene Souleiman, Paul Hanlon and Angelo Seminara are showcasing some pretty amazing work that is winning my attention.

What is the one hair product/tool you’re obsessing over right now? It’s easy - the new ghd helios professional hairdryer. The shape of the nozzle makes it supereasy to get a specific and directional blow-dry. It’s also super quick and lightweight which is so important in-salon.

What does freedom in this industry mean to you? The ability and confidence to do whatever you want to do, taking risks and grabbing hold of opportunities as they arise – you never know where they are going to lead you!

things on both myself and my staff’s hair. By having amazing clients that walk in and say “do whatever you want.” By encouraging my staff to get really creative. We all have different ideas, we all help and support each other and together we create magic. Together, there are no limits.

What’s inspiring you for 2020? The fact that you never know what each day in a salon will bring and who you will meet. The amazing new products and colours that are yet to come out. The fact that I have a great team and we all get along so well. I’m excited for everything 2020 has to offer.

What or where makes you feel most free? My job: owning a salon, having great staff and being able to let my creativity flow. Going to work and enjoying every day. Hairdressing is my passion, my happy place.

Which hairdressing icon do you most admire for their creativity? I gather inspiration from many but I’m loving Sophia Hilton (@hiltonsophia), the owner of Not Another Salon. Her colour skills are next level.

What is the one hair product/colour you’re obsessing over right now? I’m obsessing over Joico’s new Weekend Hair Dry Shampoo. Who doesn’t love a good dry shampoo? I’m in love with the packaging and have been using it on my clients but also on my wedding hair up’s to give some grit and volume at the roots. I also use it on myself as we have a water shortage up here in Northland.

What or where makes you feel most free? When one of my team members that I am teaching has that ‘next-level’ learning moment.

Which hairdressing icon do you most admire for their creativity? It’s hard to say just one! I believe it’s about taking a little bit of everything and synthesizing it to @hiltonsophia 1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

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HAIR profile

Colleen crew. I realise that could sound a bit “workaholic” but it really is a good time. To balance that out, I will head off on my own to the beach for a few days, swim, eat good food and binge podcasts. My family crack me up so that’s always a happy place for me too.

Lauren Gunn COLLEEN

What drives your passion for hairdressing? A love for people, fashion, creating the very best hair that I can and hopefully along the way, helping people to have their best hair too.

How do you personally embrace freedom of creativity? I guess we’re talking about expression and opportunity. I work hard while being playful at the same time. I keep an open mind to fashion, music, film and art. I take on absolutely every opportunity that I can and try to create opportunities for myself and other creatives too. I share my experience freely and I soak up any knowledge that others have to share with me.

What’s inspiring you for 2020? So many of my friends and contemporaries are running their own companies now and pursuing their own creative projects. They are doing it with great heart, care for people, and a true joy for what they are doing and this is a massive inspiration for me.

What or where makes you feel most free? I love being in the salon with my clients and the

26 headway.net.nz

Which hairdressing icon do you most admire for their creativity? There are @lauren_gunn

so many! Duffy does epic runway and editorial hair, Tabitha Coffey has been a massive inspiration to hairdressers worldwide, and Kevin Murphy is doing amazing things for the planet.

@lauren_gunn

What is the one hair product you’re obsessing over right now? I’m into super good condition and healthy hair. I kind of obsess over KEVIN. MUPRHY YOUNG. AGAIN Serum. It multi-tasks as a cold oil treatment, leave in treatment, blow@lauren_gunn drying serum and anti-frizz finishing product - love it to bits!

What does freedom in this industry mean to you? Freedom means seeing hairdressers earn well from what they do, being proud of their profession and having the ability to pursue their personal passions, whether that’s family, surfing, eating or doing more hair.

BREAKTHROUGH AEROPRECIS TECHNOLOGY TM

New ghd lightweight professional hairdryer with Aeroprecisâ&#x201E;˘ technology drastically cuts blow-dry time,* giving you ultimate styling control to achieve smoother results** with 30% more shine.** #ghdhelios #queenoftheblowdry

For more information, contact your ghd area manager or phone 0800 880 209. *consumer testing vs. regular hairdryer **vs naturally dried hair

Hair focus

HOARD-WORTHY PRODUCTS The failsafe products hairstylists and tress obsessives stock their kits with

1. 2.

4. 5.

1. ELEVEN Miracle Hair Treatment. 2. La Biosthetique Homme Fiber Paste. 3. Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum. 4. KEVIN.MURPHY SHIMMER.ME.BLONDE. 5. Kérastase 8H Magic Night Serum. 6. Joico Hair Shake. 7. Kemon AND Seal Serum. 8. KMS Hairplay Makeover Spray. 9. Brelil Biotraitement BB Mousse. 10. Organic Colour Systems Aqua Boost Leave In Conditioner. 11. Fudge Skyscraper. 12. R+CO Death Valley Dry Shampoo. 13. L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond Conditioner. 14. Redken 25 One United.

9. 8.

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11. 10.

12. 13.

14.

Hair: Karine Jackson using Organic Colour Systems Photography: Andrew 0â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Toole Make-Up: Margaret Aston Stylist: Karly Brown Assistants: Nichola Hand for Organic Colour Systems and Tatum Yeo

Be part of the natural hairdressing revolution.

by DAN SPILLER

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HAIR international

HAIR: Dan Spiller @ Marc Antoni Hair, UK PHOTOGRAPHY: Jamie Blanchard MAKEUP: Katie Moore STYLING AND ART DIRECTOR: Bruno Marc headway.net.nz 31

I NS PI R ATIO N As an award-winning British hairdresser and Joico Colour Ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland, Dan Spiller worked closely with his team to create a collection he says he is extremely proud of. “I used my background within the craft as my base, using modern techniques and teaming them with classic twists to create this photographic collection of dreams,” he says. “I took inspiration from the different dynamics of art, using bold statement colours to create an eye-popping look.” 32 headway.net.nz

HAIR international

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hair profile

Never be Afraid of Falling Kérastase introduces a luxury hair-fall solution for a new generation

he number one hair concern today among millennials is not one of the usual suspects like dryness or damage. It’s hair-fall. 88% of women experience hair-fall, 44% of them under the age of 35.* Yet traditional hair-loss products represent only 8% of the market today. Young women searching for solutions see medical products mostly dedicated to men, whereas they crave a beauty remedy with pleasing textures and fragrances. They want to solve hair-fall with a luxurious, sophisticated, sciencebacked regime. Kérastase listened to their concerns and responded with a modern solution to a modern problem. Introducing Kérastase

Genesis, the first dual anti-fall action haircare for weakened hair prone to falling. Launching in May 2020, this new collection places powerhouse ingredients (such as Edelweiss Native Cells, Ginger Root and Aminexil) within a luxurious formulation that reduces hair-fall due to the causes of breakage and a weakened root. Hair-fall is instantly reduced by 84%** thanks to strengthening the hair fibre and stimulating the roots. With input from hairdressers, nutritionists and dermatologists, the brand arrived at an advanced in-salon and at-home system to cut down on hair-fall instantly and over time with continued use. As with all Kérastase rituals, Genesis routines are sensual and

enjoyable, promoting beautiful hair with a luxurious, fragrant range and ritual. The Genesis journey begins with the exclusive in-salon service, a bespoke Fusio-Dose ritual which includes a special fiber-strengthening and bodifying Genesis formula that reduces hair-fall instantly. The at-home regime includes an Anti Hair-Fall Fortifying Shampoo for fine, oily hair, Fortifying Shampoo for those with thick or dry hair, Conditioner and Masque. The hero products, a Fortifying Cure and Daily Serum, are enriched with a unique complex that improves hair resistance to minimise hair-fall and maximise beautiful hair. Hair is stronger and more beautiful with a healthier look.

*Anti hair loss category, knowledge quantitative study, 9 countries US / FR / GER / ITA / BRAZ / IND / CHINA /RUS / ARA , 2016 – L’Oreal R&I **hair-fall due to breakage. Instrumental test on Bain Nutri-fortifiant + Masque Rénovateur + Ampoule/Sérum Aminexill.

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5 MINUTES WITH KÉRASTASE GENESIS AMBASSADOR HANNAH BARRETT Where do you draw inspiration from and what’s inspiring you for 2020? kerastaseofficial

n @rozalia _rus sia

I draw inspiration from the people I surround myself with. For me, 2020 is the year of the hustle! I want to throw myself into my work whilst focusing on self-improvement and upskilling. I want to push myself out of my comfort zone and rise up to challenges.

You’re working closely with Kérastase for the launch of Genesis. What do you love about the brand and why did you choose to be an ambassador for this range?

Anything fashion or food related! At the moment I am loving @alexskitchenstory for delicious and simple recipes and my current style muse is @rozalia_russian.

How do you keep in such great shape and how do you nourish mind, body and soul?

Kérastase are the leaders in haircare and they are constantly innovating and finding solutions for hair care needs. I love how their extensive product ranges are tailored to suit any hair concern/type and prescribed accordingly.

Exercise is my therapy. I love working out, whether it be F45, a boxing class, reformer Pilates or yoga. I try to remind myself to listen to my body; some days I might not feel up to doing anything and that’s okay too!

What has been your own experience with hair-fall?

kitchen

How do you like to treat/ pamper yourself?

@alexs

I absolutely love a facial or a massage. If I don’t have time for that, lighting a scented candle, applying my Kérastase Nutritive 8hr Magic Night Serum and watching a Netflix series is the next best thing. @hannahlaity

I believe most people suffer from hairfall, whether they realise it or not. If hairdressers can educate clients around the commonality and causes of hair-fall without sacrificing the luxury aspect of Kérastase that we all love, I think the range will be a huge success.

stor y

My hair is naturally fine so when I notice hair-fall, it can cause me stress. I feel as though I don’t have much hair to lose, so I’m really excited to use the Genesis range.

Through Kérastase, we’ve realised that hair-fall is a very common issue. How do you think hairdressers can address this with consideration and recommend the Genesis range?

We love your Instagram. Which Insta-feeds are your personal favourites?

What does beauty mean to you? I know it’s been said before, but I really do believe that beauty shines from the inside out. There is nothing more beautiful than being a kind, thoughtful and positive person who is comfortable in their own skin. hannahlaity headway.net.nz 35

Emilly Hadrill Hair Extensions & Salon Romantic French-chic with a contemporary twist makes this salon space a dreamy haven

mily Hadrill Hair Extensions & Salon, located in the inner-city Sydney suburb of Paddington, is a romantic dream of blush softness and French provincial chic. The integration of classic and contemporary gives this salon space a casual elegance inspired by impeccable French style. True to the salon style and branding, when designing the upstairs space Emily Hadrill decided to fuse features of her existing salons into the Victorian terrace-style space the Paddington area is known for. The colour palette consists of romantic blush hues, while white gloss features offset the restored dark timber flooring. Utilising the space’s Victorian charm, the existing ceiling’s roses and decorative features were restored to complete the French style Hadrill loves. “For my Paddington salon, I really wanted to stay true to the building's heritage,” says Hadrill. “Luckily for me, I absolutely love that style so it was easy to create a beautiful space. I utilised the same cabinetry that features in my 36 headway.net.nz

other salon locations, as I love French provincial bordering. I think it worked perfectly in this space due to the heritage nature of the building.” Standout design features include the dried flower ceiling arrangement in pretty hues of blush and white, stealing the show as a statement piece within the upstairs area of the salon. Beautiful crystal chandeliers and sheer curtains were added for softness and a feeling of luxury. Comfortel’s signature blush salon chairs with aluminium base were chosen to add a feminine luxe look. Personal touches such as velvet furniture pieces, white gloss cabinetry and French-style custom mirrors work perfectly to create

HAIR promotion

Salon: Emilly Hadrill Hair Extensions & Salon. 230 Glenmore Road, Paddington, Sydney Salon Chairs: Comfortel Furniture

Photographer: Snappr Photography

Interior Designer: DNA Design

Builder & Cabinetry: Jessop Constructions ehhairextensions.com.au emillyhadrillhairextensions

the chic look Hadrill wanted. The Paddington space is one of four Emilly Hadrill salons across Australia. “I am so glad I decided to take the risk to fund this project as it's been a huge success, catering to so many women's hair needs,” she says. “I live on the Gold Coast where two of my original salons are located and having a space in Sydney gives me a great reason to visit my favourite Australian city.”

GET THE LOOK Romantic French Provincial is a luxe style, combining a mix of classic and contemporary furniture pieces and interior elements.

• Choose a colour palette of monochrome luxury featuring black and white gloss. Blush accents can introduce softness to the space. • For furniture, go for a quilted look with blush or textured-style upholstery. Combine lush plush fabrics together, such as velvet. • Create softness with curtains that also double as a room divider. • No romantic interior is complete without featuring beautiful florals. Use fresh bouquets of roses or peonies. For a more unique look, dried floral arrangements of white and pink hues will give off a casual elegance.

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@kendalljenner

Hair focus

@kaiagerber

FIRST LOOK: AUTUMN COLOUR

@hungvanngo

@karliekloss

From the milk-chocolate tone every brunette celebrity is trying right now, through to a remix on platinum blonde and twinkly copper babylights, the pros break down the five major hair colour trends set to take off in 2020.

HONEY BLONDE If you’re looking for a blonde that’s more yellow-gold than white, you’ll love this trending honey tone. Celebrity colourist, George Papanikolas, tells us that the key to achieving the most believable sunny tone is to bump up the base just slightly. “For clients with a very dark natural root, you might need to lift the base just one shade,” he says. “You’ll have dimension, illuminated highlights, and that soft golden finish overall.” 2 headway.net.nz 38 headway.net.nz

@marianna_hewitt

An inside peek at the biggest colour trend predictions for this season and beyond

MILK-CHOCOLATE BROWN In 2020, brunettes are veering away from blonde highlights and toward a more natural lift in tone. According to NYC colourist and Baja Studio owner, Angela Soto, it’s all about soft, milk-chocolate brown. “If you are a dark brunette, you want a lift that is paler than your root, but not at all blonde,” she says. “Richening the base tone will help add dimension and then soft lighting the mid-shaft, ends, and especially the face frame leaves a fresh and bright look, without reading as obviously coloured.” There are plenty of recent celebrity and influencer examples of a milk-chocolate colour change. Kendall Jenner and Marianna Hewitt to name just a few, are recent converts.

@natalieportman

ROOTED BEIGE

@missjobaker

We’re becoming more and more comfortable with a purposefully grown-out root for 2020. According to colourist Malcolm Cuthbert, the palest blonde tones look best when painted via Balayage, implementing a root-smudging technique. “The shade should read as soft brown roots progressing to brighter blonde through the mid-shaft, ends, and around the face,” Cuthbert explains. If a client’s hair is naturally dark, the contrast between the darkest undertones and the white-blonde lift over top creates cool, built-in dimension.

@zoeydeutch

@ashleybenson

name here name here

STONE BLONDE

ORCHARD RED

@missjobaker

@hungvanngo

Think of stone blonde as platinum’s cool baby sister. The bright tone has the same lightness but stops just short of being totally bleached. The key difference, according to L.A-based colourist Sarah Klein, is that the end result should have tonal dimension. “Stone blonde strikes the balance between ashy and warm, creating a natural, beigeblonde finish,” she explains. “It’s actually more versatile than platinum, because it’s not a single colour, but factors in the natural root colour and complexion.” A great way to try stone blonde over a naturally dark root tone is to bump the base to a pale brown, then infuse bright blonde highlights over the top.

In 2019, we saw flashes of bright red hair hit the trend reports, but nothing like the shimmering, multidimensional take about to blow up in 2020. Colourist Karissa Schaudt is calling the accent shade ‘Orchard Red’ because, like an apple, it contains both golden copper and auburn undertones. “With Balayage blending, you can get that subtle pop of reflective red that adds instant richness to any base shade,” Schaudt says. Colourist George Papanikolas agrees that we’ll see red sparkles more and more this year. “Whether you’re going for a deep mahogany or a cinnamon red, the tone makes the most delicate accent,” he comments. headway.net.nz 39

Hair focus

PROTECTION PLUS

Treat Your Hair

Repair split ends in 1 use with Fudge Time Machine Seal & Armour, which increases hair’s moisture factor, improves elasticity and regenerates and replaces hair’s natural protective shield. Protection also comes in the form of Redken Extreme Play Safe, a fortifying and heat protective 3-in1 leave-in treatment for damaged hair, strengthening hair fibres to reduce breakage and protect from heat up to 230 degrees.

Goldwell Rich Repair 60sec Treatment restores damaged hair structures in a mere minute, reawakening shine and suppleness. La Biosthetique Silky Spliss Repair seals porous hair ends, smoothing and protecting against dehydration. Or try Organic Colour Systems Aqua Treatment: organic aloe, black oat extract and vitamin B5 nourish and revive dry, damaged hair for hydration and softness.

AUTUMN RENEWAL Care for post-summer hair with our favourite hydrating and rich repair treatments

In Good Condition Renew and restore dry, damaged, frizzy hair with, KEVIN.MURPHY REPAIR.ME.RINSE, a nourishing and strengthening conditioner that helps reconstruct and repair hair. Fragile hair will lap up L’Oréal Professionel Inforcer Conditioner. Infused with vitamin B6 and Biotin, hair is left stronger and more resistant.

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Davines Naturaltech Nourishing Vegetarian Miracle Mask’s biacidic bond complex repairs and protects hair bonds, while vegan keratin proteins restructure and restore. For repair and smoothing, Lust Xtra Care Hydrating Mask is infused with shea butter and Black Currant oil for moisture and elasticity. We also love Kemon ACTYVA Nutrizione Ricca Mask. This intense nutrition treatment is perfect for dry hair, providing shine, softness, detangling and volume control.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied and Shutterstock

MASKED CRUSADERS

COLOUR WITH CARE

La Biosthetique colour is full of natural ingredients chosen for their biomimetic qualities, meaning they mimic our own bio-chemistry. Our hair and skin harmonise with natural properties in organic ingredients for healthy, nourished beauty. Gentle on sensitive scalps and nourishing to hair, our formulations of concentrated natural ingredients provide irritation-free colour care. Science meets nature, for the most beautiful, natural results. LABIOSTHETIQUE.CO.NZ | 0800 522 467

Identity by COS SAKK AS

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HAIR international

HAIR: Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY, London PHOTOGRAPHY: Jack Eame MAKEUP: Lan Nguyen-Grealis STYLING: Veronica Greenhill headway.net.nz 43

HAIR international

I NS PI R ATIO N Cos Sakkas, 2019 British Hairdresser of the Year nominee, set out to create a collection of front covers for editorial fashion magazines; each image represents a limited-edition front cover. “Identity represents the style of a dynamic, adventurous woman,” says Sakkas. “It evokes a feeling of freedom and experimentation, where power tailoring collides with the unmistakable feminine form, to create a collection of images that are confident yet beautiful, allowing you to embrace whoever you choose to be.” 44 headway.net.nz

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kemon.com

*Scientific study performed on real hair to maintain the anti-frizz effect.

care evolution

Disciplina

Discover the efficacy of Disciplina, a line of products formulated to gently control frizzy and rebellious hair and achieve the desired look: perfectly straight hair or natural movement. The salon-exclusive long-lasting taming service eliminates 100% of the frizz effect up to the 4th wash.*

@KEMON_AUSNZ

1300 764 437

Queen Of The Blow Dry g ghd’s latest innovation, helios, is your new go-to for professional styling @ghdhair_anz

48 headway.net.nz

hd has long been synonymous with stylers, beloved across the globe for their straightening technology. In recent years they’ve proven their expertise spans a variety of heattech innovations, creating a curl revolution with their ghd oracle and breaking the internet with their hot brush, ghd glide. Now the styling superpower is innovating the hot tool category yet again with the new ghd helios

professional hairdryer, which delivers a lighter, faster blow-drying experience with smoother, shinier results. Developed by ghd’s leading UK Research and Development lab in Cambridge in conjunction with top physicists, engineers and styling professionals, the ghd helios hairdryer boasts a range of features and benefits designed to give stylists first and foremost a superior performing tool, showcased in ghd’s

headway focus

signature seductive product design. “The ghd helios is the result of listening to what our professional stylists and consumers want and developing a technology which meets those desires and takes the styling experience to a whole new level,” says Ludovic Dellazzeri, Managing Director of ghd ANZ. “We could see there was a need for a hairdryer which is both lighter and faster but doesn’t compromise on hair health. Our new ghd helios not only delivers ultrapowerful speed drying and a lighter styling experience, it also leaves hair smoother and shinier and eliminates frizz and flyaways.” The benefits of helios are obvious from the moment you pick up the tool; not only is the new dryer lighter, it’s also ergonomically balanced for optimal weight distribution, giving you a lighter styling experience. Don’t let the weight fool you; this hairdryer packs a punch. The longer-life brushless motor creates a powerful, highly concentrated airflow travelling at 120km, for ultra-powerful drying to drastically speed up your styling routine. The ghd helios also features yet another breakthrough from ghd in their Aeroprecis™ technology, which enables more precise styling control and delivers smoother results, promising 30 per cent more shine. A combination of four unique elements, Aeroprecis™ encompasses a patented grill design which allows maximum

air intake for a powerful result. The internal impellers reduce air turbulence and sound levels, and the stator vanes concentrate the airflow for speed drying. Finally, the contoured nozzle delivers even heat across the entire width, enabling precise styling control and results. “Hairdryers are not only imperative to everyday salon use, they’re also the most commonly used hot tool by women as well. Research shows that consumers want a hairdryer which is lighter, faster, and fights frizz – but it also shows that 56% of Australian women don’t know how to properly blow-dry their hair and simply resort to blast drying,” says Grant Norton, National Education Manager for ghd ANZ. “Our Aeroprecis™ technology means not only will stylists get better results

than ever before, but your less-skilled clients will also have better styling control, giving them better results at home too.” Truly proving ghd have thought of everything, the helios also comes in a range of four trending hues with modern metallic accents, meaning there’s a colour to appeal to every client. Backed with a two year professional use warranty, the ghd helios will soon be a tool you can’t do without. “ghd helios will be a game-changer for professional stylists and consumers alike, transforming hairdryers from a commodity into an object of desire,” says Ludovic. “Whatever your need, whether it’s speed drying, a lighter blow-drying experience, or superior results and shinier, smoother hair, the ghd helios delivers.”

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GOLDWELL ELUMEN PLAY

We love the new metallic looks created with Goldwell Elumen Play, the brand’s semipermanent colour. The 4 shades, Metallic Berry, Purple, Petrol and Silver, offer a glistening shimmer all over or can simply be used to metallize your colour creations. All shades can be mixed and matched and fade true-to-tone up to 100%.

The hair products we’re crushing on this season

Enriched with helichrysum and botanical extracts to nourish hair from within, Angel En Provence Helichrysum Hydrating Cream’s leave-in formula enhances UV protection, prevents dryness, frizz and split ends caused by environmental and heat damage. 50 headway.net.nz

ELEVEN Repair My Hair Nourishing Shampoo is a strengthening shampoo used to rebuild damaged hair and protect from heat styling. The addition of Green Tea boosts hair health and colour retention, while aloe vera offers great conditioning.

Newly launched by CS & Co, the ANTI brand offers high-performance, gender-neutral products. With 3 wash and care and 5 styling products, the range empowers beauty in a world driven by social conscience, product performance and individuality. All products are gluten, sulphate, paraben, cruelty and phthalate-free, vegan and colour safe and protect against styling, heat, UV and humidity.

Hair focus

We love Matrix Biolage All-In-One Coconut Infusion for restoring, protecting and perfecting in a few lightweight sprays. For all hair types, this little bottle of goodness leaves hair conditioned, nourished, more manageable, moisturised and detangled.

Cleanse, detoxify and refresh with Organic Colour Systems Charcoal Shampoo. Activated charcoal, known for its detoxifying properties, is paired with natural extracts of fruit vinegar for optimum conditioning. This new shampoo contains 6 certified organic ingredients and 15 naturally-derived ingredients.

Get the blowout of your dreams with new Joico Dream Blowout. This time-saving thermal protection crème shields hair from heat damage, protects your ‘do against humidity and fights frizz. Hair is left luxuriously soft, smooth and glossy.

Shine bright with Fudge Professional Hed Shine. This light reflecting spray offers an amazing glossy finish and helps control frizz and fly-away’s. UV protection included.

KEVIN MURPHY

Indulge tresses in Kemon ACTYVA Bellessere Oil, a beauty nectar that protects the hair shaft with an ultra-light film. For a silky-soft feel and frizzcontrol without the weight, this is your go-to.

For smoothness and curl retention, turn to De Lorenzo Elements Motion. This rich mousse delivers a firm hold with great styling and conditioning properties.

Activated by the heat of your blow dryer, KEVIN.MURPHY EVER SMOOTH is a lightweight spray that creates the ultimate silky, smooth blow dry with softness, volume and a frizz-free finish. headway.net.nz 51

KINKY CURLY STRAIGHT As the winner of the Hair Expo Awards 2019 Salon Design of the Year, this is a space that combines European luxury with sustainability. We talk to coowner and award-winning Australian hairdresser, Uros Mikic, about the inspiration behind their Adelaide salon Why did you decide to open Kinky Curly Straight? Having moved from Europe to NZ and then Australia, we wanted to bring a bit of European feel and flair to Adelaide. Between the two owners, we have an abundance of hair industry and business experience and wanted to create a great business for us to grow as stylists and business owners, and to offer our team an environment to have exciting and rewarding careers. Equally, we are committed to always offering the best customer care and hair trends to our clients.

Tell us about the décor, what inspired you? We both love New York and their large lofts and that was one of the design aspects we brought to the new salon. We wanted to create a high-end luxury salon that would be something you might see on NY 5th Avenue and would match the amazing work and customer care our team provides to our clients daily.

IMAGE: Supplied

“We wanted to create a highend luxury salon that would be something you might see on NY 5th Avenue and would match the amazing work and customer care our team provides to our clients daily”

HAIR focus

We wanted to keep it modern, yet warm and inviting, quite monochromatic but at the same time, a space that would feel elegant and lush. There are a number of opposites that work really well when put side by side and we ended up creating a beautiful space our clients and team love.

Tell us about winning Best Salon Design 2019 at Hair Expo Australia. We were a finalist for Best Salon Design at Hair Expo 2013 when we first opened the salon and we won Best Salon Design at the 2013 Australian Hair Fashion Awards (AHFA). To be able to take home last year’s Hair Expo Best Salon Design was truly incredible. Our two salon designs (2012 and 2019) were quite unique and different and it was wonderful to see they both made a great impact with the judges and our clients. The feedback has been amazing and we are super-excited about the new salon and industry recognition.

How important was it to create an eco-friendly, sustainable salon?

a Wella Creative Director. We also stock Kérastase, KEVIN. MURPHY and ghd. We have wonderful relationships with all these companies and our clients and team love their products.

Describe Kinky Curly Straight in 10 words High-end, luxury salon committed to ensuring a sustainable future. @kinkycurlystraight

Sustainability is an integral part of our business. When we first opened in 2012 we knew being an eco-friendly salon and having a sustainable business was going to be one of our key drivers. This has proven to be a great decision, as it fulfils our personal commitment to the environment but also drives business through the doors. We have a number of clients and staff who choose our salon for our environmental approach. The approach to designing the salon was to always keep sustainability in mind; from introducing live plants, to using LED lighting, building storage around our great waste management system, water saving solutions, renewable energy, etc.

What colour/styling products do you use? We are a Wella colour salon and stock the Wella SP range. As Creative Director of our salon, I am also headway.net.nz 53

hair focus

BLOW YOUR CLIENTS AWAY

esearch conducted earlier this year stated that hairdryers are the most commonly used hot tool. They also have the highest potential market share of any hot tool for the next 12 months, with 25% of consumers considering purchasing or upgrading. So now is as good a time as any to brush up your skills and blow them away with your solid sell-in techniques #notfullofhotair. With consumers using hairdryers pretty much every other day, you can almost guarantee they know its function. To dry hair, right? This is a great opportunity to ask questions to better educate them on the difference - because we all know there are good and bad dryers!

Questions I like to ask are… How do you dry and style your hair at home? This opens up a conversation with your client, allows you to position yourself as an expert and offer up some easy-to-use tips for at home. The goal is to give them the ability to achieve a salon blow dry at home and you have the opportunity to give them the skills and the learnings to implement this while they’re in your chair. They will only appreciate you more for it. 54 headway.net.nz

What do they like about their current hairdryer? Is it speed, the look of it or is it the finish it gives them? Understanding this means you know what to point out to encourage an upgrade or just get your client thinking about a new one. Ask questions which will set you up to offer your clients solutions and showcase product benefits. For example, how long do you spend on your hair during the drying process? Would you like to speed up the drying time? We have a dryer that uses negative ions and dries your hair twice as fast with less breakage and more shine! Would you like me to show you? Who could pass that up? How old is your hairdryer? Like all mechanics, the older the product, the less the performance will meet the original specs that you first had. Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade! A good point to remember is that 68% of consumers are buying hairdryers for themselves, but always ask the question. Don’t let hairdryers be a commodity make them an object of desire. If it’s a gift, maybe tie in a blow dry session at the salon for the receiver and that could entice new clientele as well as showing you

really care - two birds and one hairdryer! A large portion of consumers, 60% in fact, also take their hairdryer while travelling, even on an overnighter. If there is a smaller, more compact version that has similar benefits, sell it in as a package: one for home and one for the suitcase that can travel the world with them. One thing we often forget when we’re busy is actually giving the client the chance to hold the hairdryer and try it out in a supported salon environment. Show them the make, talk about the benefits, the warranty length, explain the nozzle types, heat settings, cool shot button and show them how to use the hairdryer correctly to achieve the finish they want. I guarantee that what seems basic to you may not have ever been explained to your client and it will leave them feeling confident in their ability, the tool and therefore more inclined the make the purchase on the spot. These are just a few simple and easy tips but there is a large opportunity within this hot tool category, so figure out what works for you and make selling-in your hairdryer tools a focus for 2020.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

ghd’s ANZ Education Manager, Grant Norton, shares his top tips on how to sell a hairdryer to your clientele

AURA by SALLY BROOKS

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HAIR: Sally Brooks, Brooks & Brooks, London Â PHOTOGRAPHY: Jenny Hands MAKEUP: Violet Zeng STYLING: Ann Shore

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I NS PI R ATIO N “For me, it’s always about creating something beautiful and beauty comes in so many ways,” says International Hairdresser of the Year nominee, Sally Brooks. “This collection is about timeless beauty. I design most of the looks on the day when I see the clothes, the models and lighting. For ‘Aura’, I really wanted a collection of individual images that are stand-alone pictures, working with movement and textures and combining the clothes, the model and the moment. Each image is an individual representation of beauty.”

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INTRODUCING

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@jamstoker

@coreytenold

@jamstoker

IG @voguemagazine

@coreytenold

@voguemagazine

Bold decadence; contrasting eye shadows with intense neon roots. Also known as power panels

The pixie cut has become the pixie cutie and the perfect shape for these celebrity faces

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@nikkinelms

@charlizeafrica

@rosemcgowan

For accessories, hair colour and fashion statements, blue is the new hue. Move over blush - youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re done

G what ’s trending

@core

Put those scrunchies away and introduce more complex styles and shades as the days get shorter. There’s talk of a modern shag with a Joan Jett edge, a 70s feel, while fringes create a whole new look for the ‘It girl’ bob. Colour is decidedly stronger with a power-punk vibe and blue is definitely the hue. Here’s some of the forecasts of fabulousness we’re flagging to watch…enjoy ytenold

Corey Tenold looks at everything from a different perspective. His photographic work is prolific and we’ve been a fan for years. A wonderful artist who embraces change and the freedom to photograph anything and gets paid to do it.

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HAIR trends

Billie Eilish Pirate O’Connell The latest viral teen sensation and new dark princess of pop has taken the music, hair and nail industry by storm. From silver to neon green, here are some of Billie Eilish’s looks

@billieeilish

Her impact on Gen Z has been compared to the excitement around Nirvana during its heyday.

With more than 3 billion streams to date and multiple Grammys, she’s far from average.

For Fall 2020, each house had its own personal vision of the future. They communicated strength and hope. A spirit of unity, for finding answers to problems such as climate change. Our favourite was Fendi, with ‘boudoir bosses’

@optica2000.pt

Standout accessory - the ‘backward’ headband holding steady the buns and ringlet masses. 66 headway.net.nz

@gigihadidszz

@fendi

The mix of models included Gigi, Carolyn Murphy, Liya Kebede and Mariacarla Boscono

@coreytenold

Marc Jacobs The designer we would most like to party with is Mr Marc Jacobs and is our standout Renaissance Man. He openly discusses his life as being one of pure freedom, so what better icon to feature in this issue?

â&#x20AC;&#x153;To me, beauty and makeup and colour is like the finishing touch on everything.â&#x20AC;?

@marcjacobs

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and Supplied

@marcjacobs

@marcjacobs @marcjacobs

Are you following us on Instagram?

@themarcjacobs

Gain the latest autumn hair, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine headway.net.nz 67

THE CREATURES

NZ Hairdresser of the Year 2019, Danny Pato, showcases his latest stunning collection 68 headway.net.nz

hair focus

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HAIR & ART DI RE C TOR: Danny Pato @ D&M Hair Design using Davines PHOTOGR APH Y: Mara Sommer PRODUC E R: Ryland Wood ST Y LISTS: Danny Pato & Rachel Morton M AKE UP: Kiekie Stanners MODE LS: Heidi, Jenna and Sophia from Red11

he Creatures is the latest collection from multiple award-winning hairstylist, Danny Pato. Photographed by Mara Sommer, The Creatures was inspired by Persephone, Queen of the Underworld and of creeping, buzzing creatures. Persephone was the daughter of Zeus in Greek mythology; a formidable, venerable, majestic queen who carried into effect the curses of men upon the souls of the dead. Hair is black with contrasting textures, including feathers, foliage, diamonds and pearls. Dreads entwine with branches; finger-waves bend dimensions; water-waves turn into feather textures; and blunt cuts wisp into a halo of flyaways. Pato created The Creatures as part of the AIPP Grand Trophy 2019-2020, after becoming the first New Zealander to win an AIPP (Association Internationale Presse Professionnelle Coiffure) Award. He has also recently returned from Spain, where he was nominated alongside two industry greats, Angelo Seminara and Sally Brooks, for International Hairdresser of the Year at the International Hairdressing Awards in Madrid. A great honour for one of New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest hairdressing talents. 70 headway.net.nz

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Hair focus

INTREPID

Goldwell introduce a bold new couture collection for 2020 goldwellnz

his year, Goldwell’s Creative Team envisioned a couture collection that is fearless, bold and daring. INTREPID shows the spirit of the age by going beyond convention and expectation. In 2020, it’s all about clever combinations of colour merging and melting together; from soft to strong and from dark to light. The shades are bold but more sophisticated and refined than in previous seasons. The tones are “oxygenated” as if they have been infused with an airy softness and the effect is subtle but fashion-forward. The cuts are all inspired by vintage hairstyles, using clever combinations of rounded shapes and pure weight lines to create a sophisticated and genderneutral street feel. Disconnections and multi-layering take these shapes to the next level, creating a 70s feel with a modern edge. The vintage cutting techniques with hidden disconnection and pure lines achieve a modern editorial feel.

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@kmshairnz

THINK BIG. STYLE BIGGER. NEW KMS ADDPOWER Discover limitless styling possibilities with KMS ADDPOWER. Three products that make fine and limp hair strong enough to create styles that express attitude – strong, powerful and determined.

don‘t feel limited by fine or weak hair.

@hairbysammcknight

THE RETURN OF GEL

@jamstoker

SPOTTED AT:

THE EDIT

@marykatrantzou

Hermès, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Fendi, Balmain, Kiko Kostadinov & Versace

FROM GRUNGE SPIRIT THROUGH TO SCULPTED FRINGES, WE SHARE EIGHT TOP STYLE TRENDS FROM THE CATWALK

GRUNGE SPIRIT It only took a few daubs of gel, a little lacquer and hair dye to spark a spirit of anti-conformism at the Fall/Winter shows. The hairstyles were messy and enhanced with pastel tints, for looks that felt punky, grunge and bondageinspired.

SPOTTED AT: Mary Katrantzou, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Mary katrantzou & Versace

@meghanroche

@ninaricci

@voguemagazine

@jamstoker

@meghanroche

The favourite product of hairstylists this season is undoubtedly gel, whether it’s used to fix a ponytail, bring impeccable shine to a bun or scrape hair back off the face. The only rule? More is more.

THE SLEEK PONYTAIL An imperative look this season, the ponytail was seen on the runways from New York to Paris. The buzzwords here are low and sleek, pulled together for ultra-minimalist allure. Variations on the fuss-free style included accessorized, highshine, wet look and messy.

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@voguemagazine

SPOTTED AT: Cushnie, Nina Ricci, Victoria Beckham, Oscar de la Renta, Balmain, Giambattista Valli, Prada, Stella McCartney, Carolina Herrera & Sacai

THE SCULPTED FRINGE Despite a few shy appearances with long, 70’s-style bangs, their more sophisticated older sister stole the limelight for the Fall/Winter season. Using industrial quantities of gel, models’ fringes were sculpted into waves and baroque patterns, letting the hairstylists’ creativity truly sing.

SPOTTED AT: JW Anderson, Burberry, Moschino & Fendi

hair focus

Taking the short hair trend a step further, shaved heads were seen on the runways, following in the wake of the genderless wave storming the cities. It’s striking, effortless and utterly empowering.

@pacorabanne

THE SHAVED HEAD

@adutakech

@alexandermcqueen

SPOTTED AT: Oscar de la Renta, Chanel, Versace & Alexander McQueen

@coreytenold

Statement hair clips dominated the runways, seen at Versace, Marc Jacobs and Mary Katzantrou to name a few. A tell-tale sign of an en vogue hairstyle this season, three versions were especially prominent: 1. Badass, worn with a wrapped ponytail at Alexander McQueen or a PVC headband at Alexander Wang. 2. Girly, such as the pearl headband seen at Simone Rocha, or the snowy mountain motifs at Chanel. 3. Couture, embellished with real jewels as seen at Versace and Oscar de la Renta.

@voguemagazine

STATEMENT ACCESSORIES

SPOTTED AT: Fendi, Saint Laurent,

@simonerocha_

@jamstoker

@allure

@oscardelarenta

Givenchy, Chanel & Y/Project

SPOTTED AT: Celine, Oscar de la Renta & Y/Project

@oscardelarenta

A torrent of curls flooded the runway, along with 70’s-style bangs, complementing the distinctly bourgeois allure of the Celine show. For a more retro example, think Y/Project and the square sculpted hairstyles fixed with a healthy dose of gel.

@celine

HIGH SOCIETY

BRAIDS REVISITED This season, braids were given yet another haute couture reimagining. Among our favourites were the extra-long Adams Familystyle parallel plaits at Prada and tight, jewelembellished cornrows at Paco Rabanne.

SPOTTED AT: Prada, Max Mara & Paco Rabanne headway.net.nz 75

HAIR international

by ANGELO SEMINARA

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HAIR: Angelo Seminara PHOTOGR APH Y: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole M AKE UP: Laura Dominique ST Y LIST: Niccolo Torelli

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I NS PI R ATIO N Newly crowned International Hairdresser of the Year, Angelo Seminara, has released his new collection, Moonlight. Dazzling colours clash and collide and a variety of striking 3D shapes jostle for attention in this arresting collection shot in Iceland.Â Capturing these looks in such a stark, still, quiet and monochromatic landscape, powers these extraordinarily vibrant images to the foreground, leaving an unforgettable image of wonder and awe in the mind of every creative.Â

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HAIR international

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LAKMÉ COSMETICS S.L.U. Narcís Monturiol, 27. 08960 BARCELONA. SPAIN. Tel.: +34 93 470 01 55*

WE BELIEVE ALL IN ONE: SUSTAINABLE · ORG

INSPIRI CONSCI BEAUT

HAIR promotion

We talk to Kristal Sargent, owner of multi awardwinning La Villa Hairdressing & Extensions and sister brand, Vixen & Luxe Hair Extensions, about her exciting new range.

Why hair extensions? The Vixen & Luxe Extension Collection was born as a result of a very frustrated hairdresser (me!). I was disappointed with the lack of honest, consistent hair available in NZ and the lack of effective extension application methods proven to be safe for natural hair. Determined to make a change and realizing the desire for extensions was escalating, I developed my own extension product range and mastered a flawless application with our Smooth Wefting System. I travelled worldwide and conducted extensive research, testing different hair types and found the very best, ethically-sourced hair available. I developed my own patent-pending Smooth Weft system. After undergoing rigorous patent procedures and quality testing for the last three years, I can finally unveil the Vixen & Luxe Extension Collection. Renowned for our extension work at La Villa, we literally can’t keep up with demand. After passing my skills onto my team, we’re now sharing this innovative technology with the wider industry.

What is the ‘Smooth Weft’ and why is it different?

GOLD STANDARD Kristal Sargent’s new Vixen & Luxe Hair Extensions set a new benchmark in the world of hair extensions

Our Smooth Weft technique has gone through rigorous patent and quality testing and is an updated and technologically-advanced version of micro-weaving. The Smooth Weft has a smoother finish to the scalp due to the flat construction making it virtually undetectable, comfortable, and suitable for all hair types. It’s made with a substantially stronger resin than other extension products on the market; they shed less and there is no ‘beard’ (the line of shorter hair at the top of a sewn weft which can cause itchiness). Smooth Wefts are designed/shaped to move with the head rather than individual pieces of extensions, such as tape-in’s or bonds, are 100% damage-free and will not fall out in between 84 headway.net.nz

visits. Quick to apply and remove, application can take as little as 45 minutes without the use of tape, glue, braiding or heat.

What are your extensions made from?

100% ethically-sourced human hair with the cuticles intact and facing correctly in the same direction. A lot of hair on the market is falsely advertised as ‘AAA+ grade’, but there is no grading system or quality control for hair extensions. Our extensive research shows us we have the best quality and most authentic real human hair money can buy, lasting up to 12 months.

Are extensions just for length? Is it really just a ‘young person’s thing’? Not at all! Extensions often come with the stigma of being for the young who want super-long hair. While we do have a lot of this clientele, we have just as many who use extensions for body and

a few of inches of length. Our clients are aged anywhere from 20-80 years old. Extensions are also great for cancer survivors, post-menopausal women who have suffered thinning as a result of hormonal changes, and even alopecia sufferers. We use extensions to add length and shape and also ‘colour’ hair; if a client comes in with dark hair and requests Balayage or Foilayage, we often use extensions to create this. We can even create colour panels or ‘foils’ - the sky’s the limit!

Do they feel heavy and noticeable? The weight is evenly distributed throughout the weft; every half an inch there is support from your natural hair holding them in place. They have been constructed to maximise comfort and safety, so there’s no stress on the natural hair. No damage is caused if the ‘at home’ care instructions are followed.

You’ve also created your own haircare? I formulated a specifically designed shampoo and conditioner for extensions and coloured hair, and our “Conditioning Mylk” is soon to be launched. The range is designed to smooth and protect hair from heat damage, while hydrating the natural hair along with the extensions. The Vixen + Luxe Bella Rose Hair Care VIXEN & product range is NZ-made, cruelty-free, and uses the LUXE HAIR highest quality plant-based ingredients to deliver EXTENSIONS great results. We’ve had rave reviews from all over TRAINING NZ. It feels amazing on the hair and really works.

COURSES

BEFORE

AFTER

We are delighted to offer professional salons and hairstylists certification and licensing in our Vixen & Luxe Smooth Weft System. These training courses are held at La Villa Hairdressing & Extensions in Wellington. If you have a large team or are based afar, we are able to train

GROW YOUR BUSINESS AND BECOME A LICENSED SALON IN THE VIXEN & LUXE SMOOTH WEFTING SYSTEM! at your salon or a hired location of your choice. As leaders in the world of human hair extensions, Vixen & Luxe provide innovative hair solutions to professional salons

and stylists from all walks of life. We place high importance on the development of stylists and extensionists so they can build their skill-set and deliver the best results to their clients. Please email us at info@ vixenandluxe.com or call La Villa on (04) 9766848 and ask for Kristal directly for more information. vixenandluxe

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HAIR profile

FROM ITALY WITH LOVE The Kemon brand fuses a blend of science, forward vision and nature to create a range that values hairdressers and the environment kemon_ausnz

What made you decide to stock the Kemon range in your salon? I was really drawn to the story behind the company’s origins a small family-run business with all of the ingredients grown naturally and sustainably on the family’s property in Italy. We were given some samples to try and instantly fell in love with how it made our hair feel.

What do you believe is unique about the range? Clients in general are becoming more environmentally aware these days and are wanting products and packaging that are sustainable. Kemon products conform to three different certifications: ‘Love Nature’ and ‘ICEA Vegan’ for the products themselves, and ‘I’m Green’ for the packaging. 86 headway.net.nz

What do your staff and clients love most about it? Our Kemon retail shelving is opposite our shampoo basins and the first thing clients comment on is the beautiful packaging. We then tell them the packaging is made from recyclable green plastic and sustainably-farmed sugar cane, which is a renewable resource, and also contributes to helping reduce greenhouse gas emissions. We are so proud to talk to our clients about this and that the products are paraben, sulphate and chemical-free, along with being vegan-friendly. When they actually smell and feel how luxurious the products are, they love them just as much as we do.

What are your must-have Kemon products? That’s a hard question, as we love so many and the range covers shampoos, masks, beautiful in-salon treatments and a full styling range. The ACTYVA Nuova Fibra range is my fave, and the in-salon treatment leaves my dry, damaged hair feeling amazing. AND Dry Powder is one of my must-have’s for volume and texture - awesome for hair ups. We have been playing with the ACTYVA Disciplina in-salon treatment lately and the results are awesome. Wavy, thick hair is smoothed and nourished for up to 4 washes. We love the oil from the ACTYVA Bellessere range for skin and hair and often apply it to the hair, then our clients use a pump for hands and arms. I could honestly go on about the products all day!

PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied

Though a relatively new brand in New Zealand, Kemon has become a favourite with salons all over the country. Kemon values being at the forefront of innovation but also true to family and tradition. It was in 1959, San Giustino, Umbria that Kemon was founded. For 60 years, they have taken part in the evolution of the concept of beauty, blending tradition with research, creativity and experimentation. The result has been technologically-advanced yet natureinspired hair products, and innovative training tools for future professionals. We spoke with Village Hair owner, Stacey August, from Havelock North about her love for the Kemon range.

COLLECTION BY LARISA LOVE

NO-BLEED FORMULA— IDEAL FOR CREATIVE TECHNIQUES & MELTS. LASTS UP TO

A PASSIONATE PALETTE

SHAMPOOS*

PERI-WINK

PASSION BERRY

HOT KISS

MAUVE AMOUR

TRUE LAV

#loveaura Model is wearing Color Intensity Hot Kiss and Passion Berry. Larisa Love is wearing Color Intensity Mauve Amour. * Depending on daily care habits, hair history, and texture

Exclusively distributed by Sabre Corporation / 0800 456 426 / joico.com.au / @joicoaustralianz ©

Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308

800.44.JOICO

HAIR & COLOR Larisa Love

PHOTO Hama Sanders

Hair focus

NATURE’S BEST Direct from Provence, these artisanal organic and vegan hair skin and beauty bars are a green dream

rew Distributors are proud to announce they are the stockists of beautiful French brand Balade en Provence. The organic, zero-waste cosmetics company from Provence produces sensorial vegan beauty bars for hair, face and body, with a philosophy of promoting “bienveillance”; doing what is good for the brand, for others and what surrounds us. Producing effective, enjoyable products that respect health and environment, in 2019 Balade en Provence prevented the production of more than 500,000 plastic bottles.

History of the brand Balade en Provence was founded in the village of Opio, meaning “a walk in Provence”. The products are inspired by the artistry, fragrances and flora of the region. When the brand started their first skincare line four years ago, they were surprised to discover that most shampoos, shower gels and other liquid care products contain over 80% water, chemical preservatives and plastic packaging. The thought of trucks, boats, and planes burning energy to transport plastic-packaged, water-based products with ingredients that were potentially harmful to customers didn’t sit well, so the company decided to do something about it. 88 headway.net.nz

Mission Balade en Provence want hairdressers and clients to #MoveToSolid. Their mission is to replace liquid products with solid products that are rich, natural, ecological alternatives.

The products Artisanal and containing ethicallysourced, rich natural ingredients, such as French green clay, rosehip oil, grape seed oil and coconut oil, the product offering is also certified organic, vegan, and packaged in zero-waste, 100% compostable. Once created, the Balade en Provence artisans let their bars “rest” for 30 days on wooden shelves, allowing time for the oils to blend and mature. The bars are not heated, which is why the saponification process is called the “cold process.” This process also allows the ingredients to retain their natural properties. The products range from an Invigorating Solid Shampoo For Men, Super Rich Body Bar,

All-In-1 Pour Homme Face, Body Hair & Shaving, through to a Cleanser for Baby & Mother and High Shine Solid Shampoo. Balade en Provence was awarded ‘Best Natural Product’ for their Invigorating Solid Shampoo for Men at the 2019 French Cosmetics Awards. For more information on Balade en Provence, contact Crew Distributors on 0800 CREW 66 or email info@crewdistributors.co.nz @baladeenprovence

THE PALETTE

WA N T E D By JONATHAN ANDREW

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HAIR: Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional Global Ambassador PHOTOGR APH Y: Ash Martin M AKE UP: Vivian

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Hair international

INSPIRATION Fudge Professional Global Ambassador, Jonathan Andrew, was inspired by old pictures of ‘Wanted’ posters and the typical style of image shown in them for his collection. “I added a modern fashion twist to this by taking classic hair cutting techniques and shapes and bringing them up to modern day standards,” says Andrew. “With the hair, I wanted to work with different textures and shapes to produce a versatile collection in line with the theme. I felt the black and white high contrast added a more punchy finish to the images complementing the hair and styling.”

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6 - 8 June 2020

Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre Book your tickets now at hairexpo.com.au

Hair: Dee Parker Attwood. Photography: Andrew O’Toole. Make-up Artist: Kylie O’Toole

what ’s trending

@modern_pirate

@aleksandar_rusic

Expect more products to showcase environmental benefits with their packaging and ingredient use in 2020. Australian brand Modern Pirate recently posted their 100% carbon neutral plans. Well done guys. We’re right with you.

@byrdiebeauty

At the end of the last decade, it was forecast that the men’s personal care industry would reach $166 billion by 2022. This ‘merging market’ is truly established. Headway looks at what’s trending in men’s personal space; from nail colour to fave photographers, to what’s coming up.

Aleksandar Rusic is the face (and body) of Armani’s @armanibeauty Aqua Di Gio. We voted him as the model to watch in 2020 and Giorgio Armani Second Skin Face Fabric as the best tinted moisturiser for men. Enjoy both.

Harry Styles has been up to his usual antics, breaking some rules and starting a few trends over the summer. We are loving his nail colours and bling – how could you not?

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest autumn, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine 1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ 96 headway.net.nz

@warpaintformen

Ana De Armas is the new Bond girl. Expect to be blown away by her, Daniel Craig, and the collaboration of Tom Ford and Suttirat Anne Larlarb. Cannot wait to see the new film.

@mertalas

@ana_d_armas

War Paint has an extraordinary backstory, with founder Danny Gray’s Dragons’ Den funding and his struggle with BDD (Body Dysmorphic Disorder). Well worth the google about this inspirational man and his brand.

One half of the Mert & Marcus team, Mert Alas says of their work: “The difference between us and other photographers is that we care a lot about appearance. We spend most of the time in the make-up and hairstyling rooms”.

She ’s

l ’s Gir

girl gang of up-and-coming designers are revelling in the freedom of creating clothing for the male form. One of these designers, Atlanta-born Emily Adams Bode, has been creating waves with her luxury menswear brand that expresses a sentimentality for the past through the study of personal narratives and historical techniques. Bode was the first female designer to show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s. She has since been an Elaine Gold Launch Pad finalist, a finalist in the 2019 LVMH Prize for young designers, and this year won Designer of the Year at the CFDA Fashion Awards (the Oscars of fashion). Bode is paving the way for female entrepreneurs in the menswear industry and it was a treat to research her story. After studying in Switzerland, Bode honed a folklorish eye for design at The New School, where she completed a BFA from Parsons in Menswear Design and a BA from Eugene Lang in Philosophy. In 2016, having worked within Marc Jacobs’ and Ralph Lauren’s design studios, Bode established her own brand with the intention to bring a forlorn thoughtfulness to luxury consumerism. The brand began with a collection of one-of-a-kind garments composed entirely of antique textiles and continues to reinvigorate menswear through the art of storytelling. Modern workwear silhouettes united with

Boy

Headway looks at what inspires female designer Emily Adams Bode in the world of male fashion

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female-centric traditions of quilting, mending, and appliqué shape the collections. Each piece tells a story, and is tailor-made in New York. “I’ve always been intrigued by menswear,” Bode says of her decision to start a men’s fashion label. “I was never really inspired by making clothing for myself. I think by making clothing for men, I am able to distance myself.” The designer looks to family and friends for inspiration. She weaves vintage fabrics, including linen and lace, and reproductions of vintage fabrics into thoughtful and original takes on traditional sportswear, tailoring and leisurewear. Bode’s use of embroidery and quilting is particularly striking and, she says, resonates with her customers. Bode is part of a groundswell of young female designers focusing their attention on men, running alongside fashion’s fascination with “genderless” styles. Damien Paul, head of menswear at matchesfashion.com, doesn’t consider a designer’s gender when it comes to seeking new brands, but agrees that women’s perspective on men’s clothing aligns with a loosening of codes and an expansion of ideals. Ultimately, the appeal of a designer such as Bode and this new way of dressing, is that it speaks to how men work and live now.

“I was never really inspired by making clothing for myself. I think by making clothing for men, I am able to distance myself.”

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UNPLUG AND CONNECT

hen approaching an article about ‘culture’ for our latest issue, it forced me to pause and think about our own business. What is happening amongst this wonderful group of women that I work with? How was their summer break? Are they feeling comfortable and yet still challenged in their roles now that the year is well under way? Are they happy? Where do we go to from here to continue to improve and be the best? Inevitably, I try and get a sense of the healthiness of our own culture by observing and generally asking the question directly - a quality that I may be a little (in)famous for. I try and steer away from the somewhat unfashionable terms that are common around HR like KPI’s, ROI and benchmarking. We do have targets and are aware of what has to be done to be profitable but the formality of a corporate performance programme is not really our style. Instead I am fortunate to get this opportunity, roughly every 10 weeks, to take a moment and consider our culture. Not as a set of rules and regulations to manage our business by, but rather as the very essence of who we are and the reasons why we are successful. For most it is a total luxury to be able to take the time to think, write and share thoughts on the business we own and 98 headway.net.nz

love. Our place of work, our colleagues, staff and clients we often see more of than our own homes and families. These are the places and people we spend the majority of our lives with and who help determine our own success. Yet we don’t always have the time to make sure everyone is aware of what we hope to achieve in the next 12-24 months and what we need to do to get there. It’s quite full on when you first start to think about it and this is something as a business owner you should naturally be AMAZING at (staff do sometimes forget that we are as strangely normal as they are). Once it becomes something you try and do regularly though, it does get easier. Like everything, the more you practise the better you are but it does take a bit of work. If you can take the time to unplug this year and actually connect, I would recommend it. Listen, eat lunch together, ask a direct question and try not to freak out about the answer. Engage with the people you spend the most time with. By creating a solid relationship with your team based on a few simple questions, you’re going to create a much happier and therefore healthier business. You’ll find with repetition it gets easier and shock horror, you’re probably pretty good at it.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

Anne O’Brien promotes the luxury of taking the time to think

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our team is your greatest asset. They serve your clients, represent your business and help you achieve your goals, so it’s important that every team member you employ is a great fit for your business. If you’ve recently had someone leave, or you’re finding there’s too much work to go around, you might be looking to add someone new to your team. Hiring a new team member is an exciting opportunity, but if you get it wrong, it can be a huge source of future stress. Go about it the right way by following these helpful tips.

Start with a hiring strategy If you’re wondering if you need to employ someone new, how do you know when it’s the right time and who it is you’re needing? Do you need another stylist or therapist, an apprentice or a receptionist? Start by figuring out your hiring strategy so you can assess if it’s the right time to hire and who that new person should be. First, think about specific tasks that need doing; these might be tasks that you don’t enjoy doing, aren’t very good at or don’t have time for. They could be tasks you’ve been struggling with or neglecting but could easily be done quickly by someone who specialises in them. Next, consider if you’re turning away potential business. Do you have regular clients who are waiting longer than they should for their next appointments, or walk-in clients who are being turned away due to full columns? This might be the time to think about hiring someone. Carefully consider the specific tasks you need help with and the types of services that are filling up in your appointment book. This should give you an idea of the skills and experience you’ll be looking for and whether you need someone full-time or part-time.

EXPANDING YOUR TEAM

skills, list them. But try not to get caught up in imagining the perfect candidate that you create a job description that nobody could possibly fill. It’s better to receive a number of applications that you can look through rather than struggling to receive any because you’ve set the bar too high. You may want to look for someone who fits well with your team, has a great attitude and aptitude, who you can then train to meet the standards of your salon, spa or clinic. You’ll need to describe your team and what you’re looking for in terms of personality traits. Ensure you showcase your team culture in your ad so it appeals to the right person. It’s not just you looking for the perfect fit; job seekers are also looking for a workplace where they’ll thrive. A bland ad that doesn’t show your salon, spa or clinic’s personality may not grab the attention of the type of candidates you’re after.

Write a job description Once you’ve decided on the tasks your new hire will be responsible for, consider how you value a new employee’s personal attributes versus their current skill level then write your job description to match this ratio. If you really need the new hire to be competent in certain 100 headway.net.nz

Advertise the position If your business is growing and you need a new staff member,

IMAGE: Sharon Cox

Kyra Sproule discusses who, when, and how to hire

HAIR business

you don’t need to be shy about it. Spread the news far and wide so that every potential candidate is aware that you’re hiring. Start with your current team and other industry contacts: ask if they know anyone who would be a good fit for your team. Advertise where potential candidates are - that means everywhere! Add it to your social media, Facebook community pages, or advertise in local papers or trade publications. You can even put a sign on your front door. Once you’ve received some applications, start creating a short list of those who meet your requirements. It’s good to have a quick chat over the phone for an initial screening before arranging to meet for a face-to-face interview.

Interview Plan to spend a good amount of time with each of your top candidates. You may even want to meet them on more than one occasion or involve other team members in the interview process. Don’t fall into the comfortable trap of automatically choosing the person who seems the most similar to you or your staff. The key to a happy and productive team is not sameness, it’s having a great balance and diversity of skills and personalities. Hiring with diversity in mind means your

team will better reflect the clients you serve and you’ll have a variety of personalities and life experiences contributing to moving your business forward. Invite your favourite candidates to meet the rest of your staff, observe how they interact with everyone, and think about how each candidate’s personality would work with and enhance your current team. After interviews and introductions, if there’s more than one candidate you’re happy with, refer back to what you decided was most important, their current skills or their attitude, then offer the position to the person who is the front-runner in that particular area. Whether you’re replacing someone who is leaving or you’re expanding your team, make sure you follow your hiring strategy and employ someone who is a great fit for your workplace culture. That way they’ll quickly feel like they’re part of the team and be motivated to succeed. Kyra Sproule is the Marketing & Communications Coordinator at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software. To learn more about what Kitomba can do for your business, visit www.kitomba.com or call 0800 161 101.

hair promotion

Cathy Davys talks hairdressing education in New Zealand

athy Davys of Architectural Hair Education has 40 years experience in hair design, competing nationally and on the world stage. In 2018, she received one of the highest hairdressing awards; the IPSN International Professional Standards Network Award, for outstanding contribution to the hair and beauty industry. Cathy also won 2019 HITO Trainer of the Year for the second time. Cathy’s achievements show an unrelenting drive for education and self-improvement and her talents are widely recognised by the international

Live Education versus YouTube? “Both! YouTube offers inspirational sound bites and is instantaneous and portable. Live education gives us faceto-face interaction and unexpected insights and learnings. This is realtime experience with our peers where we learn from each other and build an enduring sense of community. It’s important to support these events - this is where you feel the culture, creativity and excitement of our industry.”

Cathy Davys Architectural Hair Education: “2018 Architectural Hair Education was born of my desire to give back to other hairdressers. Hair design is architecture; if the foundation isn’t strong, the house falls over. My programmes are designed 102 headway.net.nz

to give apprentices and hairdressers the confidence to grow and be on the floor earlier, to reignite passion in those who’ve taken a break from their journey, and to assist future trainers to mastery. Architectural Hair Education is for lifelong learners, those who want to be the best, to have longevity in the industry. My training successes have come as a result of creating a unique environment and partnership for learning.”

The Environment: “Nestled in the foothills of the Tararua Ranges in the beautiful Wairarapa is 540 the Lodge. It’s holistic, peaceful and magical, perfect for freeing the mind to new ideas.” The Partnership: “In 2017/18, I travelled to the Hamptons, New York to work with Vivienne Mackinder, Artistic Director for Vidal Sassoon, and Trevor Sorbie. Vivienne has developed a universal training program called the Designer Program, which I’ve personalised to educate HITO apprentices.”

Train the Trainer Programmes: “Personalising the way education is being delivered within your business is key to controlling quality. A Designed Program will assist in standardising your training by providing structure and consistency. A great training programme within your salon also adds value to a sale, exit plan, and assists in retaining team members. I have a desire to help people be the best version of themselves. I see potential that they don’t often see in themselves. Keeping my classes small allows for intimate one-on-one coaching in a safe environment.”

Train With Cathy: go to cathydavys.com for 2020 dates Bespoke private trainings for individuals and salon groups are available. Learn how to be earning $100,000 per year hairdressing, know your numbers and how to have the sharpest soft skills. Cathy is also available for keynote speaking for distributors, salon groups, manufacturers and trade organisations. These can be tailored to your specific needs, budgets and audience size.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

Hair Mastery

hairdressing community. “NZ’s hairdressing training would be up there with the best in the world,” says Cathy. “We have an apprenticeship system that enables a person to earn while they learn. It’s a partnership with your employer and HITO, overseen by the NZQA. You come out of an apprenticeship with a qualification that’s recognised overseas and is valuable for your future as a stylist. Apprenticeships have stood the test of time. Think of Michelangelo – he started his apprenticeship with Domenico Ghirlandaio in Florence in 1488 at the age of 13. Our industry is in flux: owneroperators are working harder and never have time to train or grow a team. We need to be training from the bottom up. Currently there is a shortage of qualified, experienced hairdressers in NZ. We are bringing many over from South Africa, Ireland, Canada and the Philippines because these countries also have very good training systems.”

Argila Amazonia is the first of its kind: an easy to apply, all natural straightening system that produces effective and long lasting results and it does so with absolutely zero formaldehyde.

AMAZONIA

What’s so special about Kakadu Plum? Native to Australia, it contains the highest vitamin C content of any fruit in the world, measuring up to 100 times the vitamin C in oranges. A unique collagen-boosting and repairing super-fruit that we’re thrilled to utilise in our newest innovation. After months of research, development and testing, we introduce our beautiful new BB Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30. Featuring six benefits in one, this product evens skin tone, hydrates, soothes & nourishes, is an antioxidant and offers a luminous complexion. Blush of colour, and healthy skin, all in one gorgeous Joyce Blok product.

Joyce Blok is a New Zealand brand owned by kiwi’s, designed by kiwi’s and loved by kiwi’s for over 45 years. Make it your New Zealand made brand of choice in 2020.

For details on becoming a Joyce Blok expert or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on:

T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz

Complies with New Zealand and Australian SPF standards (AS/NZS 2604:2012)

Joyce Blok BB Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Introducing our new essential multi-tasker encompassing the best of science and natureâ&#x20AC;Ś

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ONE&ONLY SPA AT ONE&ONLY NYUNGWE HOUSE, RWANDA Surrounded by endless green and alongside ancient forest lies a Rwandan oasis, as Sharleen Singh investigates

JUNGLE HAVEN In Southwest Rwanda, just south of Lake Kivu on the Burundi border, One&Only Nyungwe House is set amongst the rich tea plantations of Gisakura, on the edge of the iconic Nyungwe National Park. The park itself covers approximately 1020 kmÂ˛ of rainforest, bamboo, grassland, swamps and bogs, and is one of the last mountain rainforest habitats on the planet.

THE ENCHANTED FOREST One&Only Nyungwe House is a rare oasis, offering an exclusive window to the wonders of Rwanda. Fascinating wildlife roaming free, captivating communities carving their path through time, and dramatic mountain landscapes. And in the midst of it all, a world-class spa offering blissful wellness and carefully curated transformational moments.

ABOVE : Canopy walk. RIGHT: Landscape Kings Palace.

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Tea Picking

“The resort offers a private rainforest sanctuary, blending seamlessly into tropical foliage for an unrivalled sense of seclusion”

FRAMING NATURE The resort offers a private rainforest sanctuary, blending seamlessly into tropical foliage for an unrivalled sense of seclusion. A chic, lodge-inspired aesthetic weaves through every room. Each filled with luxurious amenities and serene balconies which frame the wilderness beyond, perfect for spotting birds and playful primates in their element.

STRAIGHT FROM THE LAND A farm-to-table philosophy underpins every menu, showcasing organic, seasonal produce from fertile local lands. From gourmet picnics amidst exotic flora, to private dining on the elevated deck, and nourishing nibbles around a eucalyptus fire, you’ll never have the same dining experience twice – here or anywhere else on the planet.

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on offer are moonlit tours of nocturnal wildlife and breathtaking stargazing, tea picking in the plantation or simply lounging by the sparkling infinity pool, listening to nature’s calls.

NATIVE HEALING Immerse yourself in the healing energy of Nyungwe and let body and mind tune in to its timeless rhythms at One&Only Spa. The intimate spa features two treatment rooms and reflects the best aspects of Nyungwe Forest’s irrepressible beauty. An expansive deck leads off from the welcoming entrance, connecting you to the uplifting surroundings.

WILDERNESS CALLS

AFRICAN POTATO EXPERIENCE

Adventure begins on your doorstep, and every day brings something new. You can visit with cultures that have thrived for centuries and help with conservation projects that give something back. Also

The spa’s signature treatment stars a humble ingredient with extraordinary properties. The African Potato Body Experience (120min) includes a Hypoxis Body Wrap, formulated with African

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ABOVE : Spa terrace.

Ritual to transform pain into healing energy, or be immersed in a deliciously scented Rwandan coffee and mint detox wrap. Also on offer are bespoke facials, massages, wraps and energy-boosters. These indigenous spa therapies are extensive, with plenty of opportunities to get swathed, buffed, boosted, kneaded and released.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

ANCIENT WISDOM

potato, rich in anti-inflammatory and immune-strengthening properties, and marula oil. This herbal blend relaxes you on application, while the rich background sounds of Africa help the mind focus on the holistic experience. Enjoy a traditional foot ritual and deeply relaxing scalp massage while the wrap melts into the skin. Finally,

COCOON YOURSELF

Ancient African wisdoms inspire soothing natural therapies by Africology, a luxury skin care line from South Africa, drawing on potent native ingredients that flourish in the surrounding landscape. Swathed in the vivid scents and sounds of the rainforest, let the elements amplify your sense of wellbeing. A wonderfully curative journey in the heart of the African jungle; one that leaves you feeling physically and emotionally lighter.

Loosen up tight legs with an essential oil massage, release stiffness with a Fire

oneandonlyresorts.com/nyungwe-house oonyungwehouse

there is a soothing massage with bodyconditioning marula oil, which creates a natural barrier to hold in moisture and improve collagen and elastin, to complete the experience.

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FOREST THERAPY BATH AND SHOWER OIL Immerse your senses in a caring and healing experience created with our complex, hand-crafted essential oil blend of evergreen Pink Pepper, calming Cypress, cleansing Ho Wood and uplifting Juniper Berry.

WHAT’S UNIQUE ABOUT THE FOREST THERAPY TREATMENT? • Featuring the elements of nature: WATER - Inhalation AIR - Guided breathing inhalation FIRE - Hot stone placement EARTH - Warm mud to hands and feet • Slow, long and elongating signature massage move to connect each body section • Experiential facial - featuring exfoliation, mud mask and pressure point face massage (90 minutes) • Body massage focuses on back, legs, abdomen and scalp

To learn more or for full details on becoming an Aromatherapy Associates stockist info@selfcaregroup.co.nz | 0800 105 107 @aromatherapyassociatesnz

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From elegant to edgy Every woman has her go-to basics and this autumn, Jane Iredale introduce an essential collection that checks all the boxes. The new Autumn Bloom Basics collection focuses on seasonal essentials for women who love naturally beautiful looks and clean beauty. Including an always-on-trend matte eye shadow palette, a much beloved blush brought back from the archives and a signature lipstick, or three! psb.net.nz

The look of a Goddess Presenting Athena Blush, the newest addition to the Goddess Bio Lipstick range. With a light mauve-pink tone, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspired by the goddess Athena and her wisdom, peace and independence. 98% natural, vegan & certified cruelty-free cs.co.nz

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CRAZY GOOD Crazy Angel is the perfect way to maintain your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; summer glow with a customised program. With a Self Tan Mousse, Self Tan Water and Crazy Angel Tanning Drops there are plenty of application options to choose from. Vegan-friendly and containing vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and shea butter, the products smooth and soften skin leaving a natural glow. tbs.co.nz

An English Rose Discover English Garden, a chic collection featuring six shades of cool pastels and elegant neutrals. Comprised of CND® VINYLUX® Long Wear Polish and CND® SHELLAC® Brand Gel Polish, the collection is a romantic palette, reminiscent of a hidden English garden in full bloom. The perfect pick-me-up for the season. creativenails.co.nz

A NOD TO THE HAMPTONS

For a sleek, clean welcome area, Bennett is the reception desk for you. Designed with loads of storage space, this salon desk is perfect for keeping essentials at hand. Its high gloss finish with ‘Parisian-inspired’ or ‘Hamptons Look’ wood panelling makes it easy to match any salon style. comfortel.co.nz

Mesmerizing and stylish Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics new eyeshadow quad and Jet Set Brush Kit are the perfect refresh for your makeup bag. Eight rich, warm neutrals, shimmering coppers and metallic gold eyeshadows are the perfect hues to accompany the change in light. The five go-to makeup brushes are essential in creating multiple looks and packed in a beautiful travel-friendly bag. beautysense.co.nz

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Dreamy ritual Recently announced as winners of a plethora of awards with the Forest Therapy range, Aromatherapy Associates NZ now launches Deep Relax. This Sleep Well Nourishing Body Treatment Ritual is available in flagship spas this month. The Ritual is recommended for those who are unable to switch off, suffer from insomnia or are in need of recuperation. Full homecare range also available. selfcare.co.nz

Let’s get physical 100% blendable. 100% physical. Invisible on all skin tones. Introducing Dermalogica’s Invisible Physical Defense SPF 30, a weightless, sunscreen that blends easily on all skin tones, helps defend against UVA/ UVB light, and soothes the skin. For all skin types from 6 months of age. dermalogica.co.nz

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Pressie time Yon-Ka’s ‘Beautiful Skin Program’ GWP is an autumn skin saviour comprising Eau Micellaire, Gommage Yon-Ka and Masque 105. These 3 products complete each other to purify and brighten the complexion. Our favourite is the Gommage (exfoliator) for clear, glowing skin. beautysense.co.nz

THE MEDIK8 MALE

Medik8’s easy-to-follow CSA Philosophy contains everything your male clients need to reduce premature skin-ageing as well as future-proofing skin over time. With a Men’s Discovery, Philosophy and Essential Kit available, there is every opportunity to get more men into serious skincare houseofcamille.co.nz

NEW TO NZ AWARD WINNING Mineral Make Up Range from the UK.

Lily Lolo out of the UK has been lauded as the breakthrough Mineral Make up range by many Media outlets across the UK and Europe, for its high quality formulations in elegant eco-packaging, all at surprisingly attainable prices. This brand represents incredible value for money, it is for anyone that demands a socially and ecologically responsible mineral make-up range that offers high quality, clean ingredients in sophisticated and sustainable packaging. The formulations are loved by both users and artists alike for their wearability and how beautifully it photographs. Contact us today to receive your product information or arrange a demonstration at your premises with one of our team. EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN NEW ZEALAND BY de SPA COSMETICS LTD.

For Starter Package Info contact; info@despacosmetics.co.nz, quote LL2020 for limited time Partner launch options.

what ’s trending It’s that time of year again as the weather starts to cool and with less skin on show, the focus moves more to the face and hands. The beauty team investigate the best of A/W 2020’s colour inspiration, described as artful and a little spooky, plus some new makeup experts to follow…enjoy

Korea Rules

@narsissist

@kelseyannaf

Charlotte Cho continues to reign supreme with the 7 step skincare regime. Her customer endorsements are maintaining the hype into 2020 and she is still considered the major influencer of Korean beauty globally

Alien Beauty This definitely falls under the ‘eerie’ descriptions of the A/W shows and #byebrow is the quickest and easiest way to change your face

@sokoglam

Glossy Lid A glossy eyelid gives the face an illusion of hydration. It can move throughout the day, so advise clients to run their ring finger across the lid for an easy touch-up

When I’m Blue

@opi

@luciapicaofficial

There is nothing more magnificent than a new M.A.C eye shadow for the season. As a nod to the Pantone colour of the year, we’d recommend any of these beauties #stillamacfan

Fan Girl Lucia Pica, Chanel’s Global Creative Makeup and Colour Designer, is said to have reinvented the red lipstick. She is known as the queen of bare-faced chic and has always been a firm favourite

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest autumn hair, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine 118 headway.net.nz

@maccosmetics

Different Strokes The new rainbow colour trend celebrates variety by applying a different hue to each digit. A lot of fun to work with

Eye Contour OPHTHALMOGICALLY TESTED FOR SENSITIVE SKIN & CONTACT LENS WEARERS. PROTECTS THE EYE CONTOUR, REDUCES DARK CIRCLES, PUFFINESS AND FINE LINES.

BOTANICAL HERO

Blue Mountain flower

SOTHYS.CO.NZ

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PILLOW TALK

What goes on in the bedroom – a sensitive topic?

eauty sleep is NOT an old wives tale, it’s a scientific fact, and as professionals we see the effects of sleep deprivation every day on our clients skin. It is really difficult to tell a stressed out executive, new parent or someone who has always been a poor sleeper to try and get more rest. It could actually result in a bit of a snappy response as no one wants to be sleep-deprived. This season, wellness super beauty brand Aromatherapy Associates has revealed a new product designed to improve customers’ sleep 3. quality and it’s as easy as a few liberal sprays on your client’s pillow. We tried the product on one of our inhouse insomniacs and the results were remarkable. Whilst we’re not saying she wasn’t often a bit grumpy (ahem) due to the toll of not 4. being able to sleep around deadline, she just wasn’t her normal sweet self. We would highly recommend viewing the Aromatherapy Associates Sleep Edit as a supplement to your wellness menu this autumn/winter season, along with these other skin saviours. 120 headway.net.nz

Joyce Blok Vitamin E15 Serum This top-seller is designed specifically for naturally enhancing cellular renewal overnight, particularly for stressed or sensitive skin. selfcare.co.nz

Thalgo Reviving Mist Perfect after a poor night’s sleep, Thalgo’s remineralising mist boosts cell metabolism and renewal, helping bring balance and energy to the skin and assist in fighting the effects of stress. infinisea.co.nz

Sothys Chrono-Destressing Sleeping Mask Applied using the exclusive Sothys relaxing application technique and containing stabilised vitamin C and lindera extract, this mask stimulates collagen production and cellular activity. sothys.co.nz

Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Overnight Masque Containing hermalite and malachite for a unique mineral radiance, perfect for stressed skin. beautysense.co.nz

Interested in becoming a LiLash Stockist? @BEAUTYSPOTNZAU @LILASHNEWZEALAND

LILASH.CO.NZ

0800 545 274

*Top Rated by independent reviews from www.beautyreview.co.nz as at 20 November 2019

We can’t believe how amazing this Clients who have overindulged The beauty and little gem, Aromatherapy Associates in too much summer sun will love home spa products Yon-Ka Hydra n°1 Masque - the best Support Breathe Pure Essential Oil, we’re crushing on ally for dry or dehydrated skins. This gel has been through hay fever season and now with autumn sniffles. This highis enriched with hydrating actives such this season performance oil is ideal for diffusers and as imperata cylindrica, aloe vera, and burners. It also makes wellbeing on-thevegetal glycerin, combined with antigo simple with the finest Eucalyptus, Peppermint and Tea dehydration and repairing actives like jojoba and olive Tree oils that offer clearing relief and soothe stuffiness for phytosqualanes. Vitamin A and silicon bring smoothing anytime, anywhere comfort. and restucturing properties, while vitamins B5, C and E complete the action of the hydrating agents. An explosion of goodness on the skin. Once again, Thalgo comes to the rescue with this most luxurious of products, Prodige des Oceans Mask, perfect for the season. It smoothes wrinkles, improves the We cannot survive the autumn/winter season without clarity of the complexion and leaves skin crystal-clear our ASPAR Candles. They are absolutely beautiful in just 5 minutes. Ideal for those looking for renewed for spa, office and home and are very reasonably priced. radiance, plumping, and regenerated skin with a new Ideal for Mother’s Day offers too. lease on life. After months of intense sunblock, Sothys’ Glysalac Preparer Cleansing Gel with glycolic and salicylic Award-winning, wax-based Eye Of Horus Goddess acid deeply cleanses skin and eliminates dead cells. Ideal Mascara offers ultimate goddess lashes with strength, for oily/problem skin, uneven complexions, dilated pores, length and separation. Great for sensitive eyes. This sun-damaged skin, dullness and hyperpigmentation. smudge-proof, water-resistant formula conditions lash Follow with Sothys Comfort Treatment Lotion to leave structure and assists lash health. Finish off your look with the skin feeling soothed and soft to the touch. It calms and Eye of Horus Velvet Lip in Vamp Blood Red. Formulated hydrates fine, sensitive skin and is also suitable for dry skin in the style of the ancient Egyptians with key botanicals of types. Sothys treatment lotions balance the pH following Moringa Seed Oil, Arnica, Chamomile, and Cranberry cleansing and having done our research on toners this Extract, this lipstick has incredible staying power and season, this was a must for our updated autumn routine. intense pigmentation.

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NEW

SPIRULINE BOOST SMOOTH & ENERGISE

the marine shot for urban skin

10 MINS

The first marine energising range with Spirulina boosted with Marine Magnesium to help smooth the first signs of ageing linked to an urban lifestyle:pollution, fatigue and stress. Revives the radiance of the complexion.

Let the sea empower your beauty Exclusive Agent for Thalgo in New Zealand 09 362 0882 | info@infinisea.co.nz | www.infinisea.co.nz | www.thalgo.co.nz

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e had it drummed into us from teenage years from every beauty advisor we came across. In fact, these three steps have been the foundation of skincare for decades. Using a toner was considered necessary in ensuring all makeup was removed, plus any excess dirt or oil. It was definitely meant to assist with reducing oiliness, blocked pores and pimples. However, certain mainstream toners became synonymous with stripping the skin in the late 80s and through the 90s. Toners would often have an excess of alcohol in their formulation making application uncomfortable and the aftermath not ideal. Thus started the bad rap given to toners and it has only been recently, mostly due to growing popularity of toners in the Korean market, that a toner is again considered as the first leave-on step that hydrates and treats the skin. Is a toner really necessary? The toners available today are a far cry from the aforementioned alcohol-based toners and have in some markets even reached the heights of being classified as beauty water - a term we love as it sounds so soothing and appealing. Some experts will still argue that toners are not necessary. The Headway beauty team agree with the skin care experts who advocate that using a toner results in a more

effective penetration of serums and creams after cleansing. Toners are effectively primers for the rest of the products in a skincare routine. Many years ago we were taught that you should think of your client’s skin as a sponge. If you place your cream or serum on a dry sponge, it will sit on top of the sponge and not move. Place your cream or serum on a wet sponge and watch your beautiful product disappear. This is actually a great demonstration in-spa. Invest in a beautiful organic sea sponge as a sales tool for when you’re explaining your 3-step process; especially for younger and perhaps less informed beauty fans. This is a fun and easily remembered way to explain why we use toners. The new generation of toners are designed to nourish and replenish the skin after cleansing. Many contain advanced anti-ageing ingredients with gentle natural ingredients and botanicals that purify and balance the skin. A toner can provide hydration, soothe and treat the skin all at once. It can provide a mild daily exfoliation (look out for willow bark and papaya extracts) and in some cases, be used as a refreshing mist whilst travelling. Be aware that mists and toners are two separate products with different benefits for the skin, so it’s best not to mix and match too much. Toners, like moisturisers, should be prescribed according to skin type and also skin needs. If the client has sensitive skin then look for calming botanicals; large pores use a toner containing AHA’s; mature skins need hyaluronic acid and rose water; dry skin amino acids, and for acne-prone or oily skin, use a salicylic acid-based toner or one with witch hazel. Most of us in the industry are aware of the Korean ten step beauty routine and may follow Charlotte Cho, Soko Glam @sokoglam. Cho puts the application of a toner (or softeners) at step 4 after makeup remover/oil-based cleanser, water-based cleanser and exfoliation. For most of us however, toners are step two of the three step routine that is part of our DNA as beauty professionals. It is important to note that toners should be used after cleansing both day AND night. A double cleanse helps to dissolve dirt, makeup and dead skin whilst a toner prepares the skin for all the benefits of the treatment-focused products to follow. Think of that sea sponge and you’ll be sold.

ARE TONERS STILL VALID?

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PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

Cleanse, tone, moisturise Headway investigates this age old 3-step mantra

THE PHYTO-AROMATIC ALTERNATIVE TO INVASIVE AESTHETIC PROCEDURES

#nzbeautysense

0800 555 630

www.beautysense.co.nz

info@beautysense.co.nz

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Freedom Fighters The beauty team look at some of the best serums and elixirs recommended for liberating the skin from toxins and nasties. The freedom to have luminous skin from some of our faves…

1. Waterlily Eye Perfecting Duo Serums: Activated-B Eye Serum and Ferulic + C Eye Repair A is a stylish duo taking luxury eye treatments by storm. The latest in clinical research harnessing cutting-edge cosmeceutical actives in nourishing botanical plant nutrients to reverse the signs of ageing. A niacinamide hero product.

3. Yon-Ka Elixir Vitality: Beech buds, soy bean and mineral salts contribute to this Yon-Ka Quintessence for a restructuring and energising action. The skin is smoothed and younger-looking.

6. Medik8 Liquid Peptides: Bring your skin back to life with Medik8 Liquid Peptides. This ultrahydrating formula features a 30% peptide cocktail with a pioneering drone delivery system to target all visible signs of skin ageing.

2. Aromatherapy Associates Intensive Skin Treatment

Oil: The unique vitamin-enriched oils in this anti-ageing intensive skin treatment oil make this facial therapy in a bottle. Ideal for dry, dehydrated and more mature skin types.

3. Joyce Blok Super Serum: This Super Serum is

enriched with next-generation peptides, antioxidants and moisture enhancers to help reverse the effects of environmental damage. It acts to repair, re-densify and rejuvenate, working to firm and smooth the face, neck and décolleté to reveal a more radiant complexion.

4. Sothys BX Wrinkle Corrector Serum: A

daily micro-dose of dermo-relaxing peptides specifically targets expression lines formed by daily facial muscle contractions.

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7. Katherine Daniels Rehydrating Concentrate: An immediate and long-term moisture surge to rehydrate parched skin. This fluid complex sinks in quickly without stickiness. For over 8 hours your skin will feel supple and hydrated, while redness from environmental exposure will be instantly soothed and calmed.

7. 6.

CLEAN CLINICAL Mindful. Clinical. Balanced.

Speak to us today about taking your skincare business to the next level 0800 555 630

beautysense.co.nz

info@beautysense.co.nz

BE DARING

SHARLEEN SINGH DELVES INTO A WORLD OF BRIGHT AND CREATIVE MAKEUP TO EXPRESS YOURSELF

f you have a quick glimpse at the latest makeup forecasts for 2020, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to see that bright and bold is braced to make a huge impact. From brightly coloured mascara, to pops of neon eyeshadow and loud lipstick gracing the runway, daring makeup is creating a statement that is here to stay. It’s been labelled the individual cult culture.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

jane iredalel Mystikol Powdered Eyeliner in Sapphire

The epitome of a daring, self-confident ambassador, M.A.C Cosmetics New Zealand recently announced Parris Goebel as the face of their latest campaign. A worldrenowned choreographer and creative director, Parris is the ultimate trendsetter; unapologetic for her individuality, creativity and empowered approach to makeup. As explained by Kiekie Stanners, M.A.C Senior Artist, “It was a no-brainer to have a creative risk-taker like Parris front a campaign for M.A.C”. Parris herself has used the power of a bold lip to showcase diversity and female empowerment with M.A.C Ruby Woo Lipstick for many years. The shade features on all the dancers in Justin Bieber’s Purpose: The Movement music video for Sorry, which Parris choreographed, directed and performed in alongside her ReQuest dance crew. Make up looks heavily influenced by the HBO show Euphoria also has a lot to do with the recent emergence of stickon jewels and pastel shades in makeup looks. Used in the show to highlight empowerment and individuality, it has fast become a powerful weapon of choice in real life as well. According to Karen Murrell, the bold and bright makeup trend has a lot to do with what is going on globally as well. “The beauty and cosmetics industry are heavily influenced by political trends and as the world becomes more uncertain, colours worn become brighter as people use colour to show their sense of freedom. In France they call it “peace paint”. We choose brighter colours to create positivity and independence”. Makeup is more so about creating a movement, a tool to empower, enhance and put a shining light on the wearer. It’s about standing out in a crowd; a beautiful chance to let the freedom of creativity run wild.

Eye of Horus Metallic Liquid Liner in Alchemy Gold verachange_photo

parisfashionweek

M·A·C Lipstick in Ruby Woo

Lily Lolo Mineral Eye Shadow in Deep Purple Osmosis Blush in Tulip

Karen Murrell Natural Lipstick in Fuchsia Shock

karenmurrellofficial

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Beaut y wellness

The Importance of Stillness Success Coach, Annabelle Matson, shares the value of a moment of stillness in an ever-moving world annabellematson

n the modern world with so much happening at a fast pace, we have forgotten the value of rest and stillness, but it’s absolutely crucial for supporting yourself this year and getting to where you want to be. Many people would define rest as collapsing on the sofa on a Friday evening or zoning out to Netflix after a hard day’s work (not that there’s anything wrong with getting stuck into a good Netflix series!). But the truth is, it’s actually not that restful. It’s still stimulating for your mind and doesn’t allow you to check out of the busyness of the day and check back in with yourself. If you have some goals or intentions in mind for this year, most of these are going to require you to release and change old patterns and move beyond your own limits. In order to do that, you have to develop a present relationship with yourself, so you can make conscious choices about how you’re showing up in your life. When you’re racing around and feeling busy most of the day, it means you’re in reactive mode. From this place, you’re likely to draw from past patterns and behaviours and old ways of doing things, which will create more of what you want to move away from. This is where stillness comes in. When you take the time to look after yourself, to be still and present, you’re more conscious and it gives you the ability to take intentional action and think in more intentional ways. Cultivating this feeling of presence means you’re more aware of the way 130 headway.net.nz

you’re thinking and you don’t believe everything your mind tells you (because a lot of it isn’t helpful!). It means you can sift through fear, self-doubt and the “I’m not good enough” thoughts, and decide whether to engage with these or not. Without stillness, the tendency is to just absorb all of your thoughts as truth, which can really hold you back from achieving what you want. In this fast paced world, we have to start seeing the value of doing less and being still. Stillness doesn’t always mean you’re not moving. I have found that many of my stillness practices are like moving meditations. It’s anything that allows you to empty your mind and check back in with yourself. Here are some ideas to help you... • Meditation • Lying on your back with your legs up the wall • Going for a “phone-less” walk • Heading out into nature • Taking a five minute break in the afternoon to focus on your breath • Listening to my I Am Motivational Audio (download for free on my website)

Time spent on these activities is some of the most productive and valuable time you could invest all day. Here are some questions to sit with... • What allows you to feel replenished and present? • How can you be checking in with yourself throughout the day? • What does stillness look like for you? Don’t wait for big blocks of time to show up, such as a week-long holiday or two hours to meditate, otherwise it feels too hard to make it a priority. Instead, look for pockets of time such as five minutes of breathing before bed or two minutes of stillness in your car before you walk into the office. When you take time to fill your own cup, you create a level of presence in your life that allows you to make new choices that align with who you want to become. Head over to Annabelle’s website to download the “I Am Motivational Audio” for free. It has been downloaded hundreds of times, and can be used as part of an empowering morning or evening routine. Download it at: annabellematson.com/i-am

LEADER IN SCIENTIFIC SKINCARE TECHNOLOGY The Australian-made LaGaia Unedited skin and body range offers people real, measurable results, from active, concentrated ingredients formulated with leading cosmetic scientists. Products are designed to bring your skin back to its optimal pH balance, hydrate and protect skin down to cellular level while boosting cell productivity to help skin act younger at its deepest layers. “LUE is a dramatic breakaway from traditional beauty treatments that prescribe different formulas for different skin types,” says founder Dr Jean Laing. “All skin types, ages and genders need a healthy pH balance to maintain health and youthfulness.” LUE takes a ‘less is more’ approach to give the skin what it needs most—less fragrance, less chemicals and more naturally occurring ingredients like sodium hyaluronate to provide continuous moisture, essential vitamins A, C and E, and minerals that boost cell function.

For details on becoming a stockist contact Self Care Group on 0800 105 107 or email info@selfcare.co.nz

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‘The lipstick effect’ was a theory published in 1999 by Juliet Schor – when times get tight, consumers will continue to indulge in little luxuries.

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Born in the USA Anne O’Brien discusses what is happening in the world’s largest skincare market and whether the ‘lipstick effect’ is still relevant.

hilst we are all aware of K-Beauty (South Korea), J-Beauty (Japan) and most recently the impact of A-Beauty (Australia) it is the USA that is currently the world’s largest beauty market with approximately 20% share of the $532 billion global spend. The Americans are followed by China 13% and Japan 8%. Projections for global growth range between 5% to 7% or exceed $800 billion by 2025 and, again, the US will be the largest market. These forecasted figures by Forbes and the ‘lipstick effect’ means that our category, compared to other discretionary categories, will remain robust through world economy changes. This does not mean that every brand or product will be successful, as the definition of beauty and the role of beauty products in consumer’s lives is evolving. A new report by Ipsos sheds light on the changing face of beauty and summarised a series of in-depth consumer surveys. We share some key points of the study with you.

Loyalty counts

IMAGE: Shutterstock

As much as we assume customers like to try new beauty products, most consumers are satisfied with the products they currently use. In fact, 80% agreed that personal beauty and grooming needs are met by products they can currently buy today, with 55% likely to choose a trusted brand they know than try a new one. This is something as salon owners we need to take on board. We often think ‘new’ is the answer but changing brands or adding to an existing collection in your business does not guarantee growth in turnover.

The experience matters Whilst a lot of beauty houses see digital platforms and virtual try-on apps as the way of the future, 41% of beauty

customers said they would not buy a product they had only tried virtually. They still want a hands-on experience with a product before they buy. However, free samples, an easy return policy and pricing will tempt customers to try. Other strategies like virtual application tutorials or video consultations with a beauty professional are not likely to persuade customers to buy – not via the current digital platforms. C

Natural, clean and sustainable beauty may change their minds

When it comes to what attracts beauty buyers to new brands, the terms natural,MY clean and sustainable are what they are CY drawn to. Approximately 66% would be CMY interested in trying new products from K other brands if they were natural, 59% if they were clean and 55% if they were sustainable. Actually manufacturing products to meet one or all of these criteria is challenging, as they are similar but not the same. Smaller brands are at an advantage here rather than multinationals. CM

The influencer may not be that influential It’s relationships that have the biggest effect on our decision to try and buy, especially friends 50%, mothers 49% and sisters or other family members 41%. Compare this to Instagram and alternative social media at 25% and you may want to change where you’re putting your marketing spend. In conclusion, the relationship is as important to the buyers as the longevity or familiarity of the product. Loyalty is key. The ‘lipstick effect’ remains relevant and most likely the brand we’re applying today will be a close proximity to what our mother uses.

Sexual Rejuvenation Dr Catherine Stone gets intimate and discusses the treatments available to help women and men get their â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;sexyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; back

BEAUT Y appearance medicine

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

alentine’s month has just been and gone and for many men and women, it can be a reminder that their sexual life is not where it was, or where they want it to be. Research shows that more than 43% of women will have issues with sex to a level that creates distress for them. That's nearly half the adult female population! This number doesn’t include the women who have issues with sex (such as dryness, reduced sensation, painful sex, or the inability to achieve orgasm) but it doesn’t cause them stress, either because they are not in a sexual relationship, or their partner also suffers from sexual dysfunction. Men have traditionally had access to more solutions for sexual dysfunction, with medications such as Viagra and Cialis being widely prescribed. Now, new treatments for both men and women (which also have positive side effects, such as increasing penis size in men and reducing bladder leaks in women) are becoming increasingly popular in New Zealand. The Face Place’s Dr Catherine Stone, who brought the treatments to the country several years ago, is at the forefront of this development. “Sleep deprivation, negative body image or feeling self-conscious about performance can all be factors that stand in the way of sexual fulfillment,” Dr Cat says. “Many people feel overwhelmed that their sex lives are beyond help when in fact, it’s quite the opposite. There are a number of things you can do to increase your libido, boost sexual performance and add to your sexual satisfaction. This includes banning devices from the bedroom, getting adequate sleep to allow our bodies to clear out stress hormones, or you can call in the professionals to help.” The Face Place is a world-leader in non-surgical rejuvenation treatments, with experienced clinicians providing treatments that help both men and women bring sexy back to their lives.

The Face Place is a world-leader in non-surgical rejuvenation treatments, with experienced clinicians providing treatments that help both men and women bring sexy back to their lives. On their treatment menu, you’ll find two different technologies that can improve sexual enjoyment for women: the O-Shot® and ThermiVa®; while men can benefit from the P-Shot®. The Face Place is an accredited global trainer for both the O-Shot and the P-Shot. The O-Shot, also known as the ‘Orgasm Shot’ is designed to improve sensation and lubrication in women, while reducing pain during sex and improving orgasm. The treatment, which is all-natural, pain-free and quick, uses concentrated platelets (PRP) from your own blood to rejuvenate the vaginal tissue. “Many women find libido improves as sex becomes more enjoyable,” says Dr Cat. The O-Shot is also effective in treating leaky bladder, which is common in women after childbirth and around menopause. ThermiVa involves using a specialised

wand that heats the tissues of the vagina and labia to 42-46 degrees, stimulating increased blood flow and tightening the tissues. This treatment can also improve the external appearance of intimate areas by tightening the skin of the labia. Dr Cat says the pain-free treatment is “pleasant and feels like a warm massage”. For best results, a course of 3-4 treatments spaced 4 weeks apart is recommended. The P-Shot, or Priapus Shot, uses the same PRP technology as the O-Shot to boost sexual performance in men as well as improve erection hardness, sensitivity and (sometimes) size. While typically not prescribed for increasing penis size, Dr Cat explains it’s a “nice side effect if you are looking for improvement in other areas.” Dr Cat says research shows a 65% success rate after just one O-Shot treatment, with the success rate increasing to 85-90% satisfaction after undergoing a second treatment within six months. “Results last indefinitely, but you may want to ‘top-up’ your treatment on an annual or biannual basis,” says Dr Cat. The same rule applies to men with the P-Shot but the results may vary depending on the person. “I always tell people to plan for two treatments, just in case, as even if they get a good result, they will often want to try improving their function even more,” Dr Cat explains. While sex and sexual rejuvenation has formerly been a taboo subject, Dr Cat says it’s time we started talking more openly about it. “It’s a hugely important part of intimacy and life, and too often people feel ashamed to talk about it. We want to empower men and women to take back control of their bodies, enjoy an orgasm or two, and reduce the stigma associated with wanting to rejuvenate our intimate parts.” It’s time to bring your A-game (or shall we say, your O-game) to the boudoir. thefaceplacenz headway.net.nz 135

what ’s trending

Celebrity flight attendant What is a celebrity flight attendant? Check out the infectious Tennille Murphy and her ‘white hair don’t care’ blog. Not strictly a wellness guru but her down-to-earth advice and style is very enjoyable.

@will.siu.md

@thetennillelife_

Psychedelic-assisted therapy

Double the goodness

@expectful

Recommended by our extraordinarily healthy art director, we are all hooked on these two gorgeous sisters and their cookbook for autumn food inspo. The banoffee pie is dangerously good and so easy to make. Delish.

Love or hate @goop #thegooplab it’s worth the watch, particularly in lieu of the growing popularity for magic mushroom consumption as a means of addressing mental health issues.

Eco-star

@gwendittmar

@tworawsisters

In 2019 we saw the rise of weed-infused edibles, a backlash to weight-loss culture, a growing acceptance of who we are, and an environmental focus beyond the wellness sector and into the mainstream. This issue, we look at six of the buzziest wellness trends for the start of 2020.

Leonardo DiCaprio’s feed @Earthalliance is amazing, as indeed is the actor’s personal feed. DiCaprio is becoming as well-known for his environmental campaigning as he is for his acting skills and we say bravo.

Move over meditation Mind Body Green are advocating Breathework with Gwen Dittmar to reduce stress, clear energy stagnation and connect your life force to develop deep abundance in your personal, professional and spiritual life. See what you think.

@leonardodicaprio

The fertility boom A new generation of start-ups tout wearables, apps and digital platforms to address fertility issues. What was once hushed up is now being openly discussed. Check out the Expectful feed and the app.

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest autumn, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine 136 headway.net.nz

beaut y profile

What drives your passion for jewellery?

Layla Kaisi - Director of Layla Kaisi Collection

Jewellery is one of the few things in this world that can transcend time. It carries a moment, carries emotion like no other object could. It is a physical representation of history. I believe jewellery is completely unique as a physical item; there is no other product that can really transmit the same level of sentiment. If you ask someone about any piece of jewellery they wear, they will usually tell you who, where, and why they are wearing the design, what the occasion was, and what drew them to it. With this level of storytelling and narrative, how can anyone not be completely in love with the jewellery industry? @laylakaisicollection

@laurajadestone

How do you personally embrace freedom of creativity? I personally take pride in the unrestrained freedom of naivety. By this, I mean in reference to the fact that I never went to a traditional jewellery school, or trained under a large corporation. Coming into the jewellery design

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industry largely self-taught, I did not feel restrained by ideas of what is normal, traditional, or accepted in design. This allowed me to look at fine jewellery in a unique perspective that placed aesthetic and novelty at the centre of what we were trying to achieve. I celebrate this fact and encourage my team to embrace naivety in creativity too.

What inspires you? Inspiration comes from everywhere and anywhere. Our designs come to life by looking at everyday objects through a lens of unfamiliarity. For example, the way a water droplet hangs off the end of a leaf after rainfall is art in itself, and could easily play as a source of inspiration. Allowing ourselves to see the world in abstract ways will always be the biggest influence in our work.

Your style icon? Right now it is @laurajadestone. There are not many people who I could see myself wearing every outfit of theirs, but she is one of them.

Describe your personal style. Business casual. Clean lines, high-waisted, linen, neutral tones and lots and lots of jumpsuits.

@suppleskinco

I find home in the warmth of your neck, in the way I can still smell you in my hair. The soft touch of your lips on mine. This home is a sanctuary of memories. I will find you in my next life. For now you are safe in my mind. - Layla Kaisi

Your beauty and hair favourites? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m completely addicted to Supple Skin Co Dew Drops, made of hemp oil and 5 other hero ingredients. I really cannot recommend this product enough. I exclusively use this oil for moisturiser. My skin has never been so clear and glowy.

For hair I can't live without... Garnier Fructis Nourishing Banana Hair Food. As someone with very curly hair, this product deeply hydrates, with the added bonus of not having any heavy silicones or nasties. headway.net.nz 137

IMAGE: Supplied

SCENT-SATIONAL

FRAGRANCE GETS A WELLNESS MAKEOVER BRINGING LEGITIMACY TO FOLKLORE IN 2020. ANNE O’BRIEN EXPLAINS WHY…

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PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

recent article in TRENDIUM confirmed for ageing populations globally. Aromatherapy can what was mentioned in trend reports last help comfort those with short-term memory loss year and released by the Global Wellness by triggering positive memories that give them a Institute as ‘Aromatherapy 2.0 Scent as Medicine’. reprieve from the confusion they feel in their Aromatherapy is moving into a daily lives. new era thanks to technology and As well as mental health studies in neuroscience. It ticks all studies, ‘functional fragrances’ The forecast is the boxes today’s consumers care are also being explored whereby that the natural about, including 100% natural the effect of rosemary on cognition essential oil ingredients, sustainability and helps people perform mental tasks evidence-based results - bringing market will show faster and more accurately. Lemon legitimacy to folklore in the new is said to increase productivity by extraordinary decade. The forecast is that the as much as 54% which is great growth reaching news for employers, staff, students natural essential oil market will show extraordinary growth, and parents - a win win across $13 billion by reaching $13 billion by 2024. the board. 2024. So why now? One of the The neuroscience of scent and catalysts is because the brain using fragrance to ‘bio-hack’ our releases memories in connection with smell. It’s brains and enhance performance is in its infancy. been discovered that scent can play an important Watch this space for news on ‘scent habituation’ and role in the treatment of such neurological disorders how virtual aromas will soon be experienced online. as Alzheimer’s or dementia – a medical concern It seems the future smells good. headway.net.nz 139

Beaut y wellness

Turn Back Time What do genetics have to do with ageing? Dr Karen Coates shares simple strategies to help turn back the hands on your biological clock

s we unravel and study the mystery of our genetic heritage, nature provides clear evidence on how to raise the bar on healthy ageing. Some in our community have been dealt a good genetic hand. These people will age more gracefully. For others, targeting specific biochemical areas in our health and wellbeing pathways will provide clear benefits. There are several genes recognised as key players in ageing: Klotho gene, the APOE gene cluster and the SIRT family.

Klotho The Mayo Clinic discovered Klotho and named it after one of the three Greek mythological beings of Fate, Klotho, who spun the thread of life and destiny for every mortal from her spindle. Think of Klotho as a master bio-clock of cellular ageing. When this gene is disrupted, bad things happen. Seriously bad, like macular degeneration, arteriosclerosis, osteoporosis, kidney failure, insulin resistance and premature ageing.

Fortunately, this negative mutation is uncommon in our community, but even the favourable version of APOE can do with a little help to maximise cognition. Recent research shows support for this gene can increase lifespan and promote healthy ageing.

Strategies: • Increase dietary nuts, especially walnuts. Our neurons need the good quality fatty acids in nuts to build protective insulation sheaths • Increase omega-3’s: Oily fish shine here, or for vegetarians, sea-based algae rich in omega-3 • Curcumin: In supplement form or add natural turmeric to your favourite recipes • Olive oil • Manganese-rich foods: Seafood, nuts, seeds and grains

SIRT Gene Cluster These genes regulate enzymes called sirtuins that turn off inflammation, keep cells healthy and promote a longer lifespan.

Strategies:

APOE Gene The APOE gene family dictates cognitive health. A significant gene mutation, detected in genetic testing, is the APOE-4 gene variation, where just a single small protein, known as a base nucleotide, is substituted for another in the genetic recipe that determines the health of our brain cells, known as neurons. Just like alterations in a recipe for, say, a banana cake, substituting one essential ingredient for another can dramatically alter the quality of the final product. The ApoE gene cluster helps break down the amyloid plaque associated with Alzheimer’s disease. With the APOE-4 mutation the brain cells are more prone to inflammation, plaque build-up and late-onset dementia. 140 headway.net.nz

Strategies: • A diet rich in zinc (oysters, red meat pork, nuts and seeds) and vitamin D (Oily fish and organ meats) • Exercise • Sunshine • Cold water bathing turns up this gene. Ideal for the New Zealand climate! • Supplement with NAD from the vitamin B3 family – this provides a turbo-boost for your cells • Berberine herb turns up SIRT The genetic lottery of life throws out some lucky individuals who are photographed with a cigar in their mouth and a whiskey in their hands on their 104th birthday. They are the genetically elite of this world. A bit like our elite athletes, not everyone is so naturally blessed. But remember, your genes are not your destiny; they merely define vulnerabilities. Implementing support for these pathways, regardless of your genetic landscape, will improve your chances of ageing gracefully. Dr Karen Coates is an integrative medical specialist in women’s health. She presents regular workshops on health and wellbeing at the Gwinganna Lifestyle retreat on the Gold Coast, Australia.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock and supplied

• Minimise environmental air pollution, especially cigarette smoke • Exercise. Make sure not to over-do it and exceed your ‘sweet spot” with aerobic exercise, as this will drive inflammation and turn Klotho down • Glutathione: Supplements containing the herb Withania support glutathione pathways • The Acidophilus Probiotic Family: Research shows a clear link between healthy gut bacteria and longevity • The Mushroom Cordyceps: Available in supplements and as a dried herb option

Self Care Group provides a holistic approach to the business of skincare, supply and service to all those in the spa and beauty industry, both locally and throughout Asia-Pacific. Free-phone 0800 105 107 | info@selfcare.co.nz | selfcare.co.nz

Beaut y focus

Niacinamide – the renaissance Anne O’Brien looks at this often overlooked super star and its recent resurgence

he great thing about a new year, let alone a new decade, is that as much as we look to the future, we also get to enjoy a lot of retrospection. We often scroll through old images, cards, books or clothes and recycle, fondly re-read or start using again. This form of purging is no different in our own world of skincare and, more obviously, in the makeup segment. We can also look to brow trends and nail fashion for similar habits of looking back to move forward. In the world of actual skincare ingredients this does not often happen. We are always searching for the ‘new’ and the ‘latest’ in skincare advances. But this year we’re hailing a ‘new kid’ on the block across the glossies and online called niacinamide. In actual fact, this ingredient is more a twenty something than a toddler and is definitely a genius revival rather than a discovery. Niacinamide has been around in mainstream and professional products for more than two decades. On pretty much every watch list for 2020, if niacinamide was a musician it would probably be called Lana Del Rey – a new talent that has been repackaged and relaunched. What must be said is that the spotlight is well warranted and it’s time for vitamin B3 to step out of the shadows of vitamin C and take a bow. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 (niacin), one of the eight B vitamins your body needs to be strong and healthy. Niacin is found in foods such as yeast, 142 headway.net.nz

meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables and cereal grains. Niacin is produced in the body from tryptophan which, as our list of food groups suggests, is found in protein-containing food. If taken as a supplement, it is usually in combination with other B vitamins. It packs as many, if not more, punches than vitamin C and the skin boosting benefits tick all the boxes for the collagen addicts amongst your clients. Now popping up in cult favourite skincare serums, makeup priming sprays and scalp treatments, we are happy to share with you what this buzz ingredient is capable of. Celebrated for its benefits of brightening and evening skin tone, it visibly assists the skin in anti-ageing, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, refines pores, hydrates, and is an antioxidant. It helps in the skin’s natural production of ceramides – skin strengtheners – and stimulates new tissue growth. In a nutshell (or eggshell to be exact) niacinamide is an absolute gem and it can be used on all skin types to improve epidermal barrier performance. We agree with the hype and think that 2020 is definitely the year of niacinamide. 1. Drunk Elephant F Balm Electrolyte Waterfall Night Masque. 2. Skin Ceuticals B3 Metacell Renewal. 3. Glamglow Instamud 60 Second Pore-Refining Treatment. 4. Sothys W+Brightening Fluid. 5. Joyce Blok BB Cream. 6. Peace Out Dark Spots.

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MASTER YOUR HABITS “We first make our habits, then our habits make us” – John Dryden

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abits are the amazing sparks that light the fire and keep it going. Habits build your life, your empire, your depth of happiness and are responsible for your success. They are the secret to advancing yourself, to fuelling a life you love and cherish, and the key is to consistently practice the right habits every single day. There has never been a truer saying as, “Change your habits, change your life.” Most of the day you think you are making decisions. You do what you have done before and that can make you less productive, less effective than you could be. The reality is over 40% of your day is

not made up of decisions, it is made up of your habits. Habits are thoughts and behaviours so strongly wired into your mind that you perform them without thinking. They are learned and repeated over time, performed automatically and are persistent, making them hard to break or change. Successful people form habits that feed their success rather than their failure. They do what it takes to get the job done. They own their habits, work with them, master them and consistently review them. Super-charged habits build your fire and are simple productive actions, repeated consistently over time. The fire

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extinguishers are the simple errors in judgement, repeated consistently over time. The choice is simple and it is yours to make every hour, every day. To upgrade and master your habits, identify what is and is not working for you. Set up your systems, shift your mindset and find some accountability. Almost everything you do, you can do better. Remember, what you do matters, not only for you but for those around you. Your loved ones, friends and co-workers get the ripple effect of a magnificent or mundane version of yourself. Habits need constant attention, fine tuning and can be our best friend or our foe. Greatness is always in your moment of decision; the power lies in your simple actions, done consistently which have a compounding effect of self-mastery or living a limited existence.

TIPS TO MASTER YOUR HABITS

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

Identify your small limiting habits:

Where are you not getting the result you want? Do you want more energy, a healthier, stronger, leaner body, more inner harmony, a clearer mind and some space in life? What do you do daily that is not contributing to allow this to flourish for yourself? Where do you sabotage? Are you too critical of self rather than looking for what you do well and acknowledging self; buy lunch daily which sabotages your savings plan; turn to sugar rather than moving your body for energy; waste two hours on social media and distraction instead of reading 10 pages of a book each day to upskill yourself. Swap over your old habit and replace it with a new one.

Check your internal language: “I must have a coffee first thing to start the day.” You actually don’t. Check where you always say you need and

As Aristotle once said, “We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit.” must have something and question it. Change the computer program in your mind. What would be a better or alternative choice that would give you a better result? Lemon and water. “I must check my email first thing in the morning.” You actually don’t. You could journal, meditate, exercise and eat well before you check your email to own your morning and look after the asset which is yourself.

Upgrade your mindset: Change your mindset to be expansive and welcoming to building the life you really want, rather than having to give up old comforts that in fact, sabotage your results. Your routine is the manifestation of a habit. We cannot get rid of or extinguish old habits but we can work with them, change them and upgrade them which catapults us to stunning success. Focus on what you will gain from the shift of the habit rather than what you will lose.

Start with the 1%: Do you think you could improve yourself – your health,

your happiness, your knowledge, your skills, your diet, your relationships, whatever area of life you want to look at – just 1 percent worth a day? Challenge yourself daily with 1% improvements for the rest of your life. Start swapping the negative with a positive. Start refining what you do, start an incredible awareness campaign in your mind of what you actually do with the minutes of your precious days, how those activities make you feel and if they get you the results you actually want. What all the positive psychology research and writing tells us is that you can re-program your brain through exercises that are simple to do. Not any kind of huge, massive effort or difficult personal transformation, not some breakthrough, nothing dramatic or heroic or titanic – just clear, fairly mundane, repetitive tasks that are easy to do, and to do again. Old habits never die, but rather get masked by new ones. So make the journey enjoyable and something you look forward to as a challenge which will make it quicker and easier. As Aristotle once said, “We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit.” And remember, you are the average of the 5 people you surround yourself with. Check out the habits of those around you. Simply put, spend more time around the people who embody the traits you want to create in yourself. Whether you like it or not, your habits are the magical ingredients to your masterpiece called life. Own them, work with them, fine tune them and build them into your existence to keep adapting yourself to your dreams, visions and goals. Your habits are the only things standing between you and the success you want in your incredible and precious life. theessentialists.com.au headway.net.nz 145

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TRAVEL FREEDOM The Headway team share memories of holiday's past

Anne O’Brien Publisher On my first visit to France, and all subsequent ones, I experienced the most amazing feeling of having arrived home. Paris remains my favourite city and I can easily get lost in Montmartre for hours or days even. I am possibly the least French-looking person you could meet and I absolutely love the sea but for some reason this city, miles away from any sand, is my place.

Charmaine Guest Editor I visited Monument Valley in Navajo Tribal Park many years ago and it still remains the most special place I have ever been. On the border of Arizona and Utah, and with red-sand desert stretching as far as the eye can see, the towering sandstone buttes are absolutely incredible. It was beautiful, and eerie, and something of a spiritual experience for me (and I’m not the kind of person who uses the word ‘spiritual’ much at all). My dream is to return and ride through the Monument Valley desert 146 headway.net.nz

on horseback, taking in and being part of the magnificent scenery - just need to learn how to ride a horse first!

Olivia Wimsett Art Director I couldn’t decide between sailing or Whangamata. Sailing to me is my happy place, and no sailing trip is like any other. I discover, feel, see and experience something new every time we set sail, and each trip is unique. The weather, the waves, the wind, everything changes and brings with it new memories. I could never tire of it. Whangamata is my second home. Each time I arrive, I automatically begin to relax. I have many wonderful childhood memories here; nothing beats sleeping to the sound of waves crashing on the beach.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied & Shutterstock

ronically, when we first put this feature together as our last word for autumn, life was a little freer and travel restrictions were not in place. Rather than sharing stories of where we had planned or dreamed to be this year we remember locations where, as soon as we arrived, we knew the holiday was going to be very special.

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