FEARLESS COLOUR CREATIVITY WITH
HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2019 / VOL.42 NO.1
fearless COLOUR creativity WITH Koleston Perfect PERMANENT COLOUR WITH
Contact your Wella Sales Consultant or call 0800 800 128 to find out more. www.wella.com
PURE, BALANCED COLOUR RESULTS WITH NATURAL DEPTH AND SHINE. SIGNIFICANTLY LESS HAIR DAMAGE, COLOUR AFTER COLOUR.2 ME+, UP TO 60x LESS LIKELY TO DEVELOP A NEW ALLERGY TO HAIR COLOUR.1
AVAILABLE IN 105 SHADES ACROSS 6 SHADE FAMILIES FOR PEOPLE NOT ALLERGIC TO HAIR COLORANTS. Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always ask your stylist to perform an allergy alert test 48h before each colouration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult www.wella.com. If you have ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants, you should not colour. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand. 2 Versus previous Koleston Perfect. Valid for Koleston Perfect with Pure Balance Technology. 1
New Zealand’s leading multi-brand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&CO established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, ST Tropez, OPI, Framar, Eye of Horus, Foil Republic, Smith & Cult, Skinnies and Hot Tresses. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide.
We strive to help you achieve your business goals.
www.cs.co.nz | 0800 604 604
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124 Effortless glamour
Hair 16 EDITOR’S LETTER PROFILE 22 STYLE MAKER: Kevin Murphy shares his passion for the industry
24 FIVE MINUTES WITH RICHARD
MANNAH: The NY-based session stylist talks runway highlights and his love for Joico
76 IN CONVERSATION WITH
ALISHIA SMART: Chatting with the new General Manager for L’Oreal NZ’s Professional Products Division
92 COLOUR QUEEN: Marie Uva’s latest colour loves and inspirations
FOCUS 26 AUTUMN HUES: Richard Kavanagh
reveals the hottest shades this season
44 CHOP CHOP: The shorter styles making an impact for 2019
32 I AM
60 MUST-LOVE AUTUMN PRODUCTS: The Headway’s team’s top product picks for the season
64 SALON SLUNDRE: A look at this
striking contemporary salon in Japan
96 FAMILY TIES: Anne O’Brien shares her take on company culture
INTERNATIONAL 32 I AM: By Joey Scandizzo 50 CRYSTAL TWILIGHT: By Kevin Murphy
68 STYLE SHIFT By Marc Antony Artistic Team
78 RICH BOYS GONE ROGUE: By Keera K Sira
98 DECADE: By Jim Shaw
Beauty 114 BEAUTY NEWS PROFILE 130 THE FACIALIST: We chat to Ashleigh 132 THE INVENTOR: Karen Murrell FEATURES 124 EFFORTLESS GLAMOUR: This
WELLNESS 140 WELLNESS X MICROBIOME:
shares her inspirations and successes
COMO Shambhala Estate 8 headway.net.nz
clients with clogged and congested skins
APPEARANCE MEDICINE 134 SKIN QUENCHER: Dr Catherine
Scott about her journey so far
131 PORE ME: Our top product picks for
season’s makeup trend is all about minimum prep, maximum impact
128 GLASS SKIN: We explore the illuminating benefits of tinted moisturisers
Stone discovers a new concept in skin hydration
Micro-what? We explore this latest wellness buzzword
142 STRIVING FOR CONFIDENCE:
Success coach, Annabelle Matson, talks tips for moving ahead in life
COMING IN APRIL
• 80% less breakage* • 5X stronger hair* • Increased & more even lift** • Evens porosity for better color deposit • Maintains over 90% of color vibrancy***
Spray-on bond protection & color perfection no measuring, no mixing
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see it. feel it. believe it. Exclusively distributed by Sabre Corporation / 0800 456 426 / joico.com.au / @joicoaustralianz ©Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308 800.44.JOICO
HAIR Joico Artistic Team
COLOR Larisa Love
PHOTO Hama Sanders
*Against combing breakage on damaged hair during heat styling; when using Defy Damage Shampoo and ProSeries 2 vs.a non-conditioning shampoo. **When lightening ***After 10 shampoos; when using Defy Damage Shampoo and ProSeries 2.
HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2019 / VOL.42 NO.1
CONTENT EDITOR Charmaine Guest firstname.lastname@example.org CREATIVE Art Director Olivia Wimsett email@example.com Junior Designer Samai Azeez firstname.lastname@example.org Beauty Writer Sharleen Singh email@example.com PRINTING Print Management – Graeme Brazier Ltd firstname.lastname@example.org EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Charmaine Guest, Anna Collison, Richard Kavanagh, Shannah Kennedy, Annabelle Matson, Lyndall Mitchell, Anne O’Brien, Jenny Ringland, Sharleen Singh, Catherine Stone, Tereze Taber. ADVERTISING CONTACT email@example.com
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Appointments Point of Sale Inventory CRM Real Time Online Bookings Ultimate Cloud Based Freedom Contact us today for more information. firstname.lastname@example.org | www.epical.co.nz
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EDITORIAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. COVER Wella Professionals INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage)
CONNECT WITH US HEADWAY MAGAZINE @HEADWAYMAGAZINE HEADWAY.NET.NZ EMAIL US CHARMAINE@SELFCAREGROUP.CO.NZ HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is
taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors. ©2019 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
FRAMAR NOW AVAILABLE IN NZ â„¢
Contact your CS & Co Area Manager on 0800 604 604 for more information. www.cs.co.nz
EDITOR’S PICKS Goldwell Dualsenses Rich Repair 60 Sec Treatment
M.A.C Mineralize Blush in Dainty
nspiration is all around us: it’s everywhere we look. From art to music, fashion, architecture, nature, a random person we see on the street, an Insta-post – the beauty of inspiration is that it’s invoked spontaneously. That said, this issue’s theme of ‘Inspire’ includes people, visual creativity and features we hope you’ll find inspiring. We talk to many talented individuals, including visionary hair maestro Kevin Murphy; New York-based session stylist Richard Mannah; founder of hugely successful holistic beauty spa The Facialist, Ashley Scott; and lipstick queen, Karen Murrell. I also enjoyed chatting with the new General Manager for L’Oréal NZ’s Professional Products Division Alishia Smart, and hearing her plans for the future of the brands. Likewise, Max Amen, who has taken over as General Manager for Coty Professional Beauty Australia & New Zealand. What both of these accomplished individuals conveyed in our discussions was not only their passion for our hair industry but their drive to create an amazing experience for both salons and clients alike. Beautiful, colourful, and edgy collections from the likes of Angelo Seminara, Kevin Murphy, Joey Scandizzo, and a host of award-winning English stylists grace these pages. There’s at least one image from each collection which has given me pause for thought in terms of a new look. Chop-Chop and Autumn Hues showcase the hottest cuts and colours for this season and beyond, with celebrities once again leading the way, while the Headway team offer up their favourite hair and beauty products for the season. Plus, you’ll find tons of inspiration in our ‘What’s Trending’ features: from beauty to wellness, men’s grooming and the low-down on current hair fashion on the Gram, we’ve got it covered. Our autumn spa pick is the luxurious COMO Shambhala Estate in Bali, which will no doubt give you serious travel envy (their wellness programmes in such gorgeous surrounds had us ready to book tickets), along with Japanbased Salon Slundre, whose interior design is one of the more unique we’ve seen. Every issue, I look forward to the pearls of wisdom from our wellness columnists and authors, Lyndall Mitchell and Shannah Kennedy. ‘Fire Up Your Creativity’ is their theme for autumn and it’s a great reminder to us all that creativity needs constant nurturing. This is something we can’t do if we’re depleted and running on empty. I love their tips on how to recharge and change up our thoughts, routines and habits to reignite our imagination. Enjoy this edition…and the final few moments of sunny days.
Discover a 360° color care regimen that begins with the ChromaTech Service to prime, condition and seal during haircolor application. 90% of stylists who tested this salon-exclusive service reported that their client’s hair looked and felt healthier after haircolor application.* MoroccanoilProfessionals.com
*From testing by 23 professional stylists on 115 clients.
90% of stylists who tested the Moroccanoil ChromaTech Service reported that their client’s hair looked and felt healthier after haircolor application.*
ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y
IMAGE: Sally Brooks
Nicole Reyns, Vivo Hair & Beauty Stylist of the Year, explains how becoming a qualiďŹ ed Trichologist has helped her help her clients.
icole Reyns has made quite the impact on the New Zealand hairdressing industry in her 3 years here. After training and working as a Cosmetologist in Canada, the bubbly hairstylist took her skills on the road, backpacking around the Europe and Asia, cutting hair to cut travel costs. Meeting her now ﬁance Elliot on a mountain in Montenegro, Nicole then moved with her Kiwi boyfriend Aotearoa, a new landscape and a new career to develop. An application for a job at Vivo Hair & Beauty caught her eye, and the rest, as they say, is now history. In 2018 Nicole won numerous hair industry accolades, including Vivo Hair & Beauty Stylist of the Year 2018, and was a ﬁnalist in the international Behind the Chair competition, from 350,000 entries. She has also taken her passion for balayage around New Zealand, becoming one of the most sought after trainers in balayage/foilyage. ‘Education and training are so important,’ Nicole says. ‘The hair industry is fast moving, it’s really important to not get left behind.’ That’s why, when an email arrived in her inbox from Holistic Hair about a conference for something called ‘trichology’, Nicole’s interest was piqued. ‘I had no idea what trichology was!’ she laughed. ‘But the information in the email said I’d learn about scalp conditions and how they aﬀect hair. As a hairstylist, I was deﬁnitely interested to see how this knowledge could help my clients.’ After a weekend long conference hosted by the International Association of Trichologists, Nicole sat captivated as she listened to other hairstylists, trichologists,
doctors and nutritionists talk about the scalp and hair in the context of trichology. ‘I was lost!’ she laughs. ‘But totally captivated.’ So, what exactly is trichology? ‘The practice of Trichology involves diagnosing and treating hair and scalp conditions, as well as providing guidance and advice with how to keep your body in a healthy state.’ Nicole says. A trichologist might see people with scalp conditions such as hair loss, psoriasis, cradle cap, seborrheic dermatitis, or alopecia. With the support of Vivo, Nicole embarked on a 2 year certiﬁcation process that would allow her to become a qualiﬁed Trichologist. ‘The ﬁrst part of the course is theory, where you learn Body Systems, Chemistry, Microscopy, Nutrition, Hair Loss, Scalp Disorders, Procedures and Hair Shaft Problems. After you ﬁnish the theory you then do a Clinical Placement in Sydney for a week and then sit your licensing exam.’ Now, Nicole is one of only three IAT certiﬁed Trichologists in New Zealand. ‘With up to 85% of the population experiencing a scalp or hair loss condition, I believe trichology has a very important role to play in helping to assess, heal and educate our hair clients on their dermatology requirements.’ Trichology provides clients with an alternative to how doctors may treat scalp issues, oﬀering a more holistic, natural diagnosis and treatment plan. ‘Being a licensed Cosmetologist and Trichologist allows me to understand my job a whole lot more than it has in the past.’ Nicole enthuses. ‘I can now look my clients hair and scalp on a diﬀerent level.’ Nicole believes that being able to identify common scalp conditions and hair loss issues
is a valuable asset for any hairstylist. ‘Hairstylists can help by familiarizing themselves with what certain scalp conditions look like, and then become conﬁdent enough to address the client and ask them questions about what they have seen.’ A hairstylist can then refer their client to a Trichologist if the condition is excessive, or if they’re unsure about the next steps to recommend to a client. Vivo and Nicole are now developing an education programme for their staﬀ across New Zealand, eager to see Trichology used in conjunction with hairdressing. ‘We want a comprehensive service for all of our clients,’ Lynden Mason, Co-Founder of Vivo, says. ‘Vivo are all about continued education and upskilling, and bringing in new knowledge. If we can help stylists to identify and treat conditions that are in their power to do so, this beneﬁts everyone.’
“With up to 85% of the population experiencing a scalp or hair loss condition, I believe trichology has a very important role to play in helping to assess, heal and educate our hair clients on their dermatology requirements.”
Nicole is quick to point out that as a hairstylist, you are often the ﬁrst person who might identify an issue. ‘We are the ﬁrst ones our clients typically see when it comes to a scalp and hair concern. Being able to help ﬁnd a solution for the client is such an rewarding feeling. We make our clients feel conﬁdent and beautiful doing cuts and colours, why not do the same for making sure their scalp is healthy?’
“Being a licensed Trichologist allows me to understand my job a whole lot more than it has in the past. I can now look my clients hair and scalp on a diﬀerent level.”
hair news Carefree Colour Looking for your new colour? Look no further than the first acidic pH-formulated, demi-permanent colouring system from Davines â€“ View. View has been formulated to respect people and the environment, using 88-93% ingredients of natural origin and biodegradable ingredients from 95-99%. It offers extraordinary shine and volume and there are no contraindications or even permanent implications to this colour. On the contrary, View offers complete creative freedom and gives the ability to change colour however you like. Vanishing in 15-20 washes and covering 50% of white hair, View does not modify the natural melanins of the hair. The colour portfolio includes 7 naturals, 29 reflections, 4 specialities and 1 gloss for extra shine. be.co.nz
Flex In A Flash MAKE IT LAST
The colour game changer is here. Matrix Total Results Keep Me Vivid Shampoo and Conditioner ensures colours that are usually fast-fading last the distance between appointments. Maintain the strength in colour with these sulphate-free, gently cleansing and deeply nourishing new formulas. matrixprofessional.co.nz
KEVIN.MURPHYâ€™s new lightweight finishing hairspray, SESSION.SPRAY FLEX, offers flexible, workable, long-lasting hold without the crunch. Never flaky or fixed, this must-have spray gives life back to your locks with a versatility that allows hair to flow freely. crewdistributors.co.nz
Inspired By Women Moroccanoil have joined with the Women’s Tennis Association (WTA), to develop the organisation’s ‘Inspired by Women’ platform. The collaboration sees Moroccanoil as the WTA’s exclusive haircare sponsor for their 2019 season. Created to empower women worldwide, the project encompasses a series of short films entitled INSPIRED, affording WTA’s athletes a platform to highlight their philanthropic initiatives and community support efforts. The series heroes an inspired selection of players and stories that are creating a positive impact. Share your story using the #InspiredByWomen hashtag.
Slick Moves Fudge Professional has just launched Vinyl Pomade, a versatile, medium-hold conditioning pomade with veneer shine. It’s perfect for all hair types and creating either retro or contemporary sculpted styles with a lacquer finish. Best of all, this pot of sleekness is infused with coconut oil for added condition and shine, smoothing flyaways and frizz for a tamed, in-control look. cs.co.nz
Get The Look Want a lighter, brighter look to your salon? Look no further than Comfortel’s new Matte White Base option for salon chairs. Released in a White Capital 5 Star Base with matching Hydraulic Lift pump for a totally sleek look, pair with black upholstery for a modern, monochrome salon interior. Featured here on Comfortel’s Joey Salon Chair in White. comfortel.co.nz
Dateline introduces two luxe sprays to the Oribe range. Oribe Foundation Mist weightlessly primes hair for styling. The nutrient-rich conditioning spray builds shine and detangles, while providing anti-static thermal protection and improving hair health. Oribe Mystify Restyling Spray prolongs styles while protecting and moisturising strands. This hydrating spray reactivates yesterday’s products to restyle while nourishing, strengthening and shielding against thermal damage. dateline.co.nz
Sea Change The new Angel Deep Sea Mystery Blue Series contains proven anti-ageing ingredients and hydration properties to improve scalp and hair moisture and elasticity, thanks to Padina Pavonica extract from the Mediterranean sea. The series includes Dual Pure Repair, Colour Protect and No Yellow Shining Crystalline to nourish, strengthen and protect. phb.net.nz
Lift Off Going blonde no longer means sacrificing healthylooking hair, thanks to Joico Blonde Life™ Crème Lightener. Featuring protective ingredients and 9+ levels of lift in a flash, on and off scalp, it reduces breakage by 77% in a single treatment. With exotic oils and bondbuilding Arginine, this next-generation crème lightener also strengthens hair to be 4 times more resistant to breakage. joico.com.au
With festivals the new catwalk for millennial women in the digital world, ghd has been inspired by the vibrant energy of these global music festivals and presents their most hedonistic headliner yet. A kaleidoscope of colour comes together in the Festival Collection, which features the ghd Air, ghd Gold and ghd Platinum+. We love! ghdhair.com.au
Pamper Me The newest Circle Chronicle from Davines, ‘Let It Go’, is a relaxation hair and scalp mask, perfect for de-stressing and giving clients a moment of pure peace. With 100% natural Grey Clay to de-stress hair and scalp, and Ayurvedic Brahmi Oil to balance and calm the mind, The Circle Chronicles is a family of six high-performance scalp and hair masks that deliver immediate results. be.co.nz
From Lust’s range of Luxury Round Ceramic Hair Brushes, our pick is the new Paddle Brush. Ergonomically designed for ease of use, this salon must-have has been specially designed to retain heat for a faster blow-dry. Great for prepping hair before hot styling for straight locks or providing smoothness to curls and waves without breaking hair’s natural pattern.phb.net.nz
Grey Daze ENTER NOW
The Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge 2019 is calling for entries. With two categories – Creative Colourist (more than 5 years’ experience) and New Talent (less than 5 years’ experience) – 5 finalists will be chosen from each category. One national winner will then be chosen from each and the two winners will be off to Vienna for Global Zoom to compete against winners from around the world. Take inspiration from Goldwell’s new Remix collection, where pop mixes with punk and colours are bold, contours sharp and contrasts are strong. Entries close May 31st and can be submitted via the Color Zoom portal au.colorzoomchallenge.com
Show the world your shade of grey with Redken’s new Color Extend Graydiant Shampoo and Conditioner. The innovative formula removes unwanted undertones with an anti-yellow system to brighten, nourish, tone, smooth and strengthen silver and grey hair, for both natural greys and gorgeous greys by choice. Ditch dullness and be Graydiant! redken.com.au
Hair Therapy Matrix Biolage Deep Treatment Masks offer a total hair transformation, for smoother, stronger, nourished hair with less breakage. The masks come in three variations for individual hair concerns: hydration, smooth and colour protection. Each mask contains four lush applications. matrixprofessional.co.nz
Glossed Up Create intense colour and radiant shine with the innovative, demi-permanent tinting gel Color & Gloss from La Biosthetique. This natural, shiny and conditioning colouration system softly enhances instead of drastically changing colour. Free from ammonia and monoethanolamine (MEA), this tinting gel intensifies every colour. Lightened hair is given individual shading, grey hair is concealed and tiredlooking lengths and tips are refreshed. Depending on intensity of the colour effect, processing time is between 10 minutes and half an hour. The pH neutral character of Color & Gloss protects hair and scalp, whilst natural oils such as argan, macadamia nut and sunflower protect the hair fibres and create a radiantly shiny finish. labiosthetique.co.nz
BEHIND THE CHAIR
CS & CO introduce Framar to NZ, offering their latest, most popular products. The range consists of colour brushes, clips, and innovative accessories; classic essentials with practical improvements, as Framer pride themselves on being connected to the colour room floor. Loved by some of the most influential hairstylists of our time, including Guy Tang and Larisa Love, Framar has taken social media by storm, rapidly becoming one of the fastest-growing colour accessories brands. cs.co.nz
Style Maker @crewsalonnz @love_kevin_murphy
As an acclaimed session stylist and creator of his own successful hair care, colour and styling range, Kevin Murphy talks to Headway about his stunning new collection, creative process and what success means to him
What does beautiful hair mean to you? Beautiful hair is a style that has the ability to transform a woman. Not only in how she looks but in how she feels. It can make her feel powerful, daring, adventurous, and very glamorous.
What inspired your new collection, which you showcased here in New Zealand for the first time?
The current mood in fashion is 60s and 70s redux coupled with hyperpersonalisation. Presently we are preferring to create a clearly definable design language rather than starting from scratch every season. Hair is personal and emotional; if you just make it transactional, you really lose something. With this collection, we wanted to define the trends and show how to navigate through the borrowed nostalgia
to embrace new styles that they perhaps hadn’t considered before. I like to give them choices and alternatives that would make any person of any colour of any time or age feel beautiful and glamorous.
Out of your many accomplishments, what are you most proud of?
and endless revivals. It is in this time that we are “putting the wrong with the right”. We wanted to show hairstylists how to choose the “right wrong” for their clients, using current trends in colour, cutting and styling and how to make their work feel relevant and current.
What do you think makes KEVIN. MURPHY unique to other professional hair brands? My brand still has the hairdresser at the very core who cares deeply about not only what products get created, but how they will help make positive changes in people’s lives.
What is your creative process when developing and creating a collection? My collections are my predictions for the direction where I think hairstyles are going. It is also my way to inspire others
I would have to say that creating the brand is by far the greatest accomplishment. Never in a million years would I have imagined it to be possible. I didn’t do it alone and I was very fortunate to partner with people who knew how to do the things that I didn’t. It was by combining all of our strengths that we were able to achieve it.
You’re passionate about protecting the environment, especially our oceans. Can you tell us more about this? As a manufacturer, I’m aware of the toll that the processes employed have on the environment. As a citizen of the world, I’m aware of the damage that has been caused to our environment and understand how critical it is to not only heal the damage to our ecosystem, but ensure that future practices do no further harm to our environment. For this reason, we have decided to create all of our packaging out of ocean waste plastic. These are plastics that are
harvested from the surface of the oceans and converted into materials that will be used for our bottles. By the end of 2019, it is my goal to have converted all of our packaging to ocean waste plastic.
Where does the idea for a new KEVIN.MURPHY product come from initially? My inspiration comes from many areas. Sometimes I create a new product to fill what I think is a void in the market; a product with benefits that currently do not exist. Sometimes they are inspired by an ingredient and its healing or restorative properties and I think to myself, what kind of product can I create with this ingredient?
How did you achieve your definition of success, and what is that to you? To me, success is being happy in all that you have accomplished. To be able to look back on my life and have a smile on my face. I want to feel satisfied with my achievements and to feel that, through my accomplishments, I have been able to make a positive impact on other people’s lives.
Which colours are you loving right now? I would have to say rose, soft violet, soft jade, coppers and platinum.
What is the most important thing you’ve learnt during your career you can pass along to other hairdressers? You can never lose your thirst for knowledge and curiosity about the world we live in. You never know what you don’t know and there is always, always something new to be learned. headway.net.nz 23
5 MINUTES WITH
Richard Mannah We speak to New York-based session stylist, educator and Joico International Guest Artist, Richard Mannah, about new Joico Defy Damage, runway highlights and his current lifestyle favourites.
I am inspired by many things: from sea life through to architecture, nature and the obvious, such as designers, other hairdressers and Instagram.
What’s a working week like for you? Some days I can be travelling, while other days I’ll be doing education, a photo shoot, a step-by-step video or prepping for my next trip or project.
As a Joico International Guest Artistic Director, what drew you to working with the brand initially and what do you enjoy about your role? I love what the brand stands for healthy hair. Joico totally understands the dynamics of the hairdresser and
client in terms of beautiful imagery, social media and amazing products, which protect and maintain healthy hair. When I first met Valerie Robinett (Senior Director of Digital Marketing & Communications) and the Joico team, I instantly knew Joico would be a great fit for me. This was definitely a defining moment for me.
Which cuts are you most excited about for clients this season? The classic bob. I love the variations; it can be classic and simple or with a few layers for versatility.
Joico’s new Defy Damage range has just launched here. What’s so unique about the range and what do you love most
Film: Passion of Christ and Cinema Paradiso. Book: There Is More by Brian Houston. Artist: MJ. Hairdressing Icon: Sam McKnight. Designer: Tom Ford. Restaurant: TAO. Netflix Obsession: Unsolved (Tupac and Biggie). Wardrobe Staple: A pair of OG Jordan sneakers.
about it? I love how it totally protects and strengthens the bonds of the hair before any chemical, thermal or UV touches the hair. It’s simple and very effective. I also love how the ProSeries 1 enhances and speeds up the colour service while also protecting the hair. The range contains ‘Smart Release Technology’ and there’s nothing like it out there. The home care system also has this breakthrough technology, which clients can experience at home.
As an in-demand session stylist, which products are always in your kit? I love Joico Body Shake and Joico Defy Damage Protective Shield. It really makes the hair look and feel shiny and healthy.
What has been the most memorable fashion show you’ve ever worked on? There’s been so many, however I loved doing Kendall Jenner’s hair at Giles Deacon’s show in London. That was a great show to be part of.
Your proudest career moment to date? Winning London Hairdresser of the Year.
Where do you draw inspiration from and what’s inspiring you currently?
9,000 + Hairdressers 200+ Brands
150+ Education Sessions
3 International Headliners
Early Bird Ends on 12 April 2019
Jen Atkin Candy Shaw Tabatha Coﬀey
GenNext Show The most Prestigious Awards Night of the Industry
Get your tickets at
hairexpoaustralia.com or contact us at 02 9422 2859
HAIR: JOEY SCANDIZZO PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDREW O’TOOLE STYLING: JOSIE MCMANUS MAKEUP: KYLIE O’T OOLE
Australia’s Biggest Weekend of Hair
UTUMN HUES How cool are you? Creative Director for Rodney Wayne, Richard Kavanagh, reveals the hottest shades for the new season
Icy cool blondes in shades of grey and powder blue are bigger than ever, as seen on the likes of Lady Gaga, Ruby Rose, Dove Cameron and Kylie Jenner. These girls wear their strength on the outside and are not afraid to be cooler than cool. So cool in fact it’s bordering on blue.
Dark and rich, warm and luxurious, this season’s best brunette smacks of wealth and sophistication. Prime examples of this can be seen on Charlize Theron and Rumer Willis.
RICH COPPER This season’s best bet when making the change from blonde is a rich, sultry copper. Katherine Langford broke the Twitterverse and collapsed the Gram when her Perth salon took her from blonde to copper and made the gorgeous actress look sophisticated and sexy all at once. Kate Bosworth’s signature golden blonde locks went darker and richer onto a gorgeous shade of copper that adds an air of mystery to an already stunning head of hair.
DUSTY PINK This is still huge and there’s no going past it. A perennial favourite and another huge hit this autumn is cotton candy and dusty pink. Khloe Kardashian managed to give her platinum locks a little respite from constant lightening by going pink for a moment, as did Ashley Tisdale. Pastels really are the perfect option for hair that just won’t quite lighten enough to be pure and clean. Plus, they can be super-fun and interchangeable to boot. And let’s not forget the boys. Zac Efron recently rocked a full head of platinum, giving a nod to the icy hues of the earlier mentioned celebs, showing he is already ahead of the trends for autumn 2019.
ool your jets people! This season’s hair trends are cool and crisp and are being shown off by the biggest celebrities. Even redheads are cool kids this autumn, with the biggest trend in hair colour being dramatic change. Technology has improved hair colour so much that our clients are more willing than ever to treat hair colour like makeup and change with each visit, according to their mood and their whims. They now have no qualms about going from dark to light and back again. Although their hair may not love it, and their wallets may suffer a little, if it’s good enough for the biggest stars, it’s good enough for everyone. As summer draws to a close and autumn’s chill starts to creep in, it’s time to think about what’s next, what’s new, what hue, and who wore it best? To my mind, this season’s top hair colour trends include…
SOAK IT UP
Slather on (1) De Lorenzo ET Equilibrium Deep Repair Treatment Masque with organic rosehip and oat peptides to restore and repair hair for healthy lustrous shine. For a moisture-packed punch, (2) Organic Colour Systems Aqua Boost Treatment revives the structure of dry, damaged hair, giving ultimate hydration, softness and maintaining colour integrity.
For a complete anti-age treatment, (3) Davines SU Hair Mask replaces softness, moisture and shine to dry, damaged hair in need. Perfect for during and after sun exposure. We also like (4) Redkenâ€™s new All Soft Mega Mega Mask which combines deep conditioning with the lasting benefits of a care extender for strength and nourishment.
For hair in recovery, here are our picks of the best post-summer saviours 5
Known as a hair reconstructing clinic in a bottle, (9) Fudge Professional 1 Shot + Treatment is an intense, leave-in treatment to rehydrate, soften and smooth locks whilst conditioning the scalp. For hair regeneration in literally a minute, try (10) Goldwell Dualsenses Rich Repair 60 Sec Treatment which restores the most severely damaged hair structure from deep inside.
(7) KEVIN.MURPHY RE.STORE is a repairing cleansing treatment which helps bind moisture and improve elasticity. Nourishing and replenishing for targeted nutrition without the weight, get your bounce back in no time. We also love (8) Joico Defy Damage Protective Shampoo for bondstrengthening and colour longevity. This gentle cleanser offers damageprevention ingredients for resilient, shiny, healthy locks.
(5) Paul Mitchell Lavender Mint Moisturizing Conditioner richly hydrates hair, with a frizz-fighting formula that smooths unruly strands and delivers a lasting, healthy shine, while (6) Pureology Hydrate Conditioner delivers deeply penetrating multi-weight proteins to revitalise and nourish hair.
PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied & shutterstock
Collection: Apricity by Karine Jackson, Hair: Karine Jackson using Organic Colour Systems, Photography: Andrew O’Toole, Make up: Margaret Aston, Styling: Mel Nixon, Assistants: Organic Colour Systems Australasian Education Manager Nichola Hand and Tatum Yeo
colour, care & styling without compromise
www.organiccoloursystems.com e email@example.com p 021 906 647
we never have and never will test on animals - in fact we refuse to distribute to countries that still insist on animal testing - and we’re vegan friendly we use the lowest possible levels of oxidative pigment (PPD, PTD, PTS) and offer an option that is free from them all when you commit to us, we commit to you - we won’t stock another salon near you without consultation with you across our range we use 95% naturally derived ingredients - more than 60% of them are certified organic we strive to protect the environment working to reduce our impact on it across all our business practices we manufacture our own products giving us unrivalled quality control and you a direct line of communication to the people who make what you’re using we’re a community of good humans looking to work with other good humans who truly care the results you can achieve with our system will blow your mind get in touch today to find out more
SALON: Lavish Hair + Beauty Bar Shop 5, The North Village Kellyville, NSW, Australia INTERIOR DESIGNERS: Alicia Xiberras Interiors www.aliciaxiberrasinteriors.com.au @alicia_xiberras_interiors SALON FURNITURE: Comfortel Furniture www.comfortel.co.nz PHOTOGRAPHER: Terrance Chin Photography
LAVISH HAIR + BEAUTY BAR Celebrating textures in a luxe yet organic-inspired environment
avish Hair + Beauty Bar shows us that turning down the colour and celebrating texture creates a salon space that has a calming, minimal look. Designed by Alicia Xiberras Interiors, Lavish Hair + Beauty Bar uses custom concrete panels, textured wall paint, natural timber and leathers for an environment that is inspired by an organic way of life. “Our design vision for Lavish Hair + Beauty Bar was to create a beautiful salon space using contrasting textures and raw materials,” says Xiberras. When walking into the salon, you are greeted by a light space and a sleek, custom-made concrete reception area. The herringbone tiling on the floor expands the depth of the space that leads to the interior. Within the styling area, the Chloe Tan Salon Chair from Comfortel is paired with the Ash timber floating benches, with chrome accent accessories and floating backlit mirrors. “Designing salons is not just about how many hair stations you can fit in the space,” says Xiberras. “It’s about allowing your clientele to feel a sense of tranquillity. Salon interiors should make you feel like you’re escaping your everyday life.” The basin showcases a dramatic change of mood to a quieter muted space. Comfortel’s Kelli Electric Wash Lounge is featured with the inclusion of custom black and white prints and a backlit colour bar. “We chose to use Comfortel for this salon design because we loved the Chloe
Styling Chair in Tan,” says Xiberras. “It works perfectly with our organic salon design. Comfortel’s customer service was always helpful in answering any questions we had about the products and finishes. Comfortel is a one-stop-shop for all hair and beauty salon needs.”
How to ‘celebrate textures’ in your salon interior design •Go for neutral colours: deep dark blues, greys and tan, mixing with beige tones. •Other than white, paint some walls in different colours or textures to identify ‘areas’ within the salon space. •The type of materials chosen are of huge importance to emphasise the details in each piece. •The appearance of the design layout is kept clean and simple, so you can still see wood tones in furniture and the stitching in textiles. •Choose textured walls or wallpaper for a focal point. •This is minimalist. Space is important. There is an open, airiness about the look. headway.net.nz 31
By SHOWPONY PROFESSIONAL WITH JOEY SCANDIZZO
HAIR: Showpony Professional featuring Joey Scandizzo (assisted by Hermiz Daniel) PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole MAKEUP: Kylie O’Toole STYLIST: Melissa Nixon MODEL: Tiahnee Skrijel
INSPIRATION One model, six looks, encapsulating strength and individuality was the vision behind the ‘I AM’ campaign by Showpony Professional Hair Extensions. These key looks bring to life an inspiring collaboration between world-renowned photographer Andrew O’Toole, multi-award winning hairdresser, Joey Scandizzo, and Showpony Founder & Managing Director, Stephanie Mason. “I wanted the collection to reflect the alter-egos we possess as women and how individuality can inspire a different look every day,” explains Stephanie Mason. I AM was shot using one model to demonstrate Showpony’s versatility: from the beautifully feminine ‘Classic’ ponytail, to the effortlessly undone ‘Wild at Heart’.
INTRODUCING… MAX AMEN Max Amen is the new General Manager for Coty Professional Beauty Australia & New Zealand. We speak to Max about his love for the industry, Wella Professionals’ focus for 2019 and what’s inspiring the team currently @wellapro_anz
What are you most passionate about in terms of your new role and what are you looking forward to bringing to the brand? I’m thrilled to be part of the Wella team and am thoroughly enjoying my new role as General Manager for Coty Professional Beauty Australia and New Zealand. I came here knowing I would be working with some of the most creative and inspirational artists in the industry, which I am really excited about. When starting any new role, I think it’s key to assess the business and wider market to identify areas of success and potential growth. My first priority was taking stock of our salon partners, e-commerce and digital presence. The team has been doing a great job, but in a creative industry like this that constantly evolves, I’m excited to re-shape things moving forward. This will mean continuing to build Wella as a ‘love brand’ in our salons and to consumers. I’m passionate about our expanding Wella community and believe that brand ‘partnerships’ should be treated as individual relationships. No two salons are the same, and it’s important to remain open to adapt and change with each of our salons, dependent on their needs. It’s rewarding to see and hear the success of our teams already supporting Wella salons across ANZ to build their own successful businesses, and I want 38 headway.net.nz
to ensure that we’re evolving the way we work to continue meeting these needs. As part of this, I’ll be prioritising our digital offering. There is a wealth of digital and social media expertise at Wella, and we have identified social media and omnichannel as a key (and immediate) focus for the coming months. Our current Influencer Marketing programme has been hugely successful, with campaigns often exposing the ANZ market and individual salon partners on a global level. I believe there is a clearly defined opportunity to elevate the hair industry and its current reputation. Australia and New Zealand house some of the best talent in the world, which I aim to showcase in the work we do. Wella is a leading professional hair brand that sits poised on the cusp of the industry, a main player that is always adapting and innovating and now ready to play its starring role. It’s a very exciting time.
and extensive education scheme, it’s a dynamic community that we are very proud of. Wella Professionals has always been an industry leader in professional colour services and products for over 100 years. The brand has continuously innovated during this time, which is pretty unique. This isn’t looking to slow down any time soon as demonstrated in February where we re-launched our heartbeat colour product, Koleston Perfect, now with ME+™ technology. Koleston Perfect with ME+ is the biggest colour innovation in 130 years and is Wella’s purest colour to-date, delivering impeccable results and tackling existing colour service barriers on a consumer level. Everything from hair damage to grey coverage has been considered and we are hugely excited about it. Check out #ASKFORWELLA on Instagram to see what exciting things our artists, influencers and celebrities have been up to with new Koleston Perfect with ME+.
In what ways do you believe Wella Professionals to be unique?
Having a sense of family is important to Wella Professionals. How will you continue to foster that?
There are many ways the brand stands out from the crowd! Ultimately, the Wella brand is one big network of likeminded, driven people with a passion for hair. From our unrivalled portfolio of world-class Creative Directors, to our acclaimed awards programme
It’s hugely important to us to ensure that our salon partners feel supported and that they are in a reciprocal relationship based on trust. A key part of my role is ensuring that this not only continues, but develops. One way to strengthen these partnerships is to ensure everyone
feels valued, treated with respect and that they are continuing to grow. It is important to provide opportunities for people to come together and interact, share experiences and learn from one another. You will see our Wella education program expand and modernise. Showcasing competition work, awards and supporting creative teams on projects (such as Fashion Week) are also essential, giving our Wella family the opportunity to see that they are a pivotal part of something bigger.
What can ANZ salons look forward to in terms of education for 2019? Our education programme will continue to be world-class in 2019 and we are focused on tailor-made support systems. Whether a partner wants to develop their product and education knowledge, or prioritise customer service, confidence and individual growth, we have something for everyone.
What’s the most important focus for you over the coming year? Colour! Koleston Perfect with ME+ is a huge launch for the business and will continue to lead the Wella conversation throughout the year. Whilst our partners evolve and become comfortable using the new product in salons, we are expecting to see some revolutionary colour creations in the coming months. Our colour directors, Marie Uva and Jack Morton, have recently showcased some truly inspirational work via awards and on social media, which is paving the way for budding colourists to join the new Koleston Perfect with ME+ movement. Colour aside, we have a lot more to come, which is keeping us busy! With a new male grooming brand launching in June and some modern updates on old classics, you’ll be seeing a lot more from Wella and the wider portfolio over the next few months. Another important aspect for Wella and our partners is ensuring we continue
to adapt, grow and evolve in an everchanging environment. Coty Inc is a large business that operates across several territories, yet we work with partners who benefit from commercial agility and flex. At Coty, we like to ‘think like a start-up’ so our reps on the ground can operate with an entrepreneurial mind-set with their salons, helping them adapt to changes we see in the industry.
What is inspiring you and the Wella Professionals team right now? I’m constantly inspired by the creativity in-salon. Though far away from other markets, we have some of the most inspirational talent here in ANZ, like a ‘secret weapon’ I believe will be pivotal in elevating our industry. I want Australia and New Zealand to be the conversation-starters, the trend-setters and a hive of activity that everyone wants to be part of. I see this in our future and I’m excited to watch it unfold. headway.net.nz 39
ALL SYSTEMS GO Multiply your colour opportunities with new Goldwell SYSTEM
he breakthrough hair colour revolution created by Goldwell, @PURE PIGMENTS, opened up a whole new dimension in the hair colour segment. Now, Goldwell multiply this with the new generation sub-brand of SYSTEM; salon-exclusive colour services that allow for endless options and unprecedented colour creativity. The results can be seen in the stunning images showcased on these pages. Combining innovative technologies that set entirely new standards in the field of hair colour, with irrepressible creativity, a whole new world of colour services can be created in the salon. SYSTEM offers unlimited freedom to fuel creativity; individual colour services
customised to fulfil clientsâ€™ wishes; and a high-performing integrated system to build your confidence for all your colour services. For those unfamiliar with @PURE PIGMENTS, Goldwell developed this highly-innovative hair colour, which features breakthrough HDÂł Dye Technology, to create long-lasting colour, multi-dimensional effects, and exceptionally brilliant shine. This innovation is now extended with the Goldwell SYSTEM sub-brand: Divided into three categories Creativity, Solutions, and Balance Goldwell SYSTEM offers a toolbox that sets no limits when it comes to colour creativity.
Creativity The new Goldwell Thickener opens up creative hair colour services without boundaries and without foil. This highperforming thickening fluid works with oxidative colour and bleach, allowing colouring with highly contrasting nuances of up to four levels of difference directly next to each other, without the bleeding of colours.
Solutions The dermatologically-tested Goldwell Color Remover gently but efficiently removes colour from skin during and after the colour service.
Balance BondPro+ prevents hair breakage by strengthening the hair fibre, ensuring exceptional hair quality during and after lightening and colouring. Goldwell Structure Equalizer evens out the colour results by optimising the colour deposit on hair and instantly equalizes structural differences. Goldwell are excited about this new innovation, which will allow colourists to express themselves in a whole new way. The Goldwell SYSTEM products offer all you need to customise, enrich and perfect each of your colour services. headway.net.nz 41
name here name here HAIR focus
SMOOTH OPERATOR Second-day styling has never been so effortless with new ghd glide @GHDHAIR_ANZ
he phrase “I woke up like this” couldn’t have been more applicable when beauty editors and influencers were introduced to the ghd glide professional hot brush last month. The ghd glide allows you to roll out of bed and have smooth, sexy locks - effortlessly - in just minutes. It’s the perfect partner for second-day styling. As demonstrated to the group by ghd ambassador, Richard Kavanagh, the hot brush’s ceramic technology with ioniser heats the brush uniformly to the optimum 185°C styling temperature for guaranteed healthier looking hair. The ioniser restores balance back to
the hair, eliminating frizz and leaving hair perfectly smooth and glossy. The combination of high-density shorter bristles and longer bristles allow large sections to be styled and leaves salonsmooth, natural movement. All of us were keen to try out this magic brush thanks to the expertise of the ghd stylists on-hand and it was amazing to see how easy to use the glide is and how quickly you can whip your own hair into shape. Unfortunately, this limited-edition hot brush has been so popular it has already sold out. But we have heard whispers that it may be back sometime in the future. We’ll keep you posted!
“The ioniser restores balance back to the hair, eliminating frizz and leaving hair perfectly smooth and glossy.” 42 headway.net.nz
NEW INGREDIENTS ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY VITAMINS
INVIGORATING CARE BLENDS. TIME TO RECHARGE. Contact your Wella Sales Consultant or call 0800 800 128 to find out more. www.wella.com
New year, new hair! Here are the shorter styles making an impact for 2019
hile a wardrobe switchup is always welcome, there’s nothing quite as transformative as a new haircut. Whether you’re seeking a not-quitebare buzz cut or are in the mood for a modern-day upgrade on Jane Fonda’s iconic 70s shag, complete with ‘trimthem-yourself bangs’, there’s no rule that says high-impact has to mean highmaintenance. If a hint of retro attitude is up for discussion, model Brigit Kos’ bold,
blunt bob merges the femininity of the 20s with a dash of centre-parted 90s minimalism, while an off-kilter pixie freshens up the timeless short cut. When in doubt, don’t forget it all comes down to the styling. With a sweep to one side and a spritz of hairspray, a pile of perfectly layered curls becomes the coolgirl look of the moment. From layered lobs to blunt bobs, classic crops to perfect pixies, there are no shortage of style options that will have you ready to grab those shears and get
to work on an innovative look for your clients. Here’s what’s trending…
Updated Pixie Pretty or edgy, most can wear a pixie cut successfully, as it doesn’t have to be ultra-short all over. A fashionably long, asymmetric fringe keeps styling options wide open. A cleverly-cut fringe can shorten a long face, draw attention to the eyes or create smooth, face-softening waves. Zoë Kravitz proved how striking a pixie crop can look, especially when
it’s super-blonde. A mussed-up texture makes it look both effortless and cool.
The Layered Shag Shag-cut bobs are easy to style and can be worn as a casual, rough-dried contemporary look or conversely, blown dry so the layers are sleek and smooth; it’s definitely a two-in-one haircut. Choppy layers are a great way to take attention away from round, fuller cheeks. Edie Campbell has been showing off a modern Joan Jett-style shag, a nod to the music icon’s piece-y chop that helped define 70s punk rock beauty.
The Cool-Girl Bob The best examples of this right now can
a buzz cut look effortless with her current textured crop and adorned her look recently with a simple black headband. “I think Kate Hudson’s choppy haircut is every woman’s hair crush - I see this in my salon, and rightly so,” says Anthony Nader of RAW Anthony Nader. “It’s short and still oozes sex appeal. The beauty about Kate’s haircut is that you have the choice if you want to wear it slick one day, or textured and cute the next. It’s like asking your hairstylist for a two-in-one style.” For us, Ruth Negga’s neat cut is ideal inspiration for anyone with naturally curly hair, while supermodel Maria Borges rocks her natural curls in a cropped cut with tapered sides. Taraji P. Henson does
be seen on Khloe Kardashian, Hailey Bieber, Emily Ratajkowski and our favourite, Dua Lipa. She has rocked both the slicked-back bob and a more casual, wavy ‘dried naturally’ look. Keep the texture undone rather than restricted and poker-straight. The slick-back is perfect for upgrading the bob if you’re struggling with tying it back. Vanessa Hudgens has gone for the bobs and bangs look, and we love Jenna Dewan’s new shorter, sleeker bob complete with centre part.
“From layered lobs to blunt bobs, classic crops to perfect pixies, there are no shortage of style options that will have you ready to get to work on an innovative look.”
volume right with her chic curly cut, and Viola Davis’s rounded afro pairs perfectly with her wash-and-go hairstyle.
The Asymmetric Bob If there’s one cut that never goes out of style, it’s an asymmetric bob. Nina Dobrev took hers even shorter and gave us all a lesson in how to work a side fringe. Having a big comeback this year, this all-time favourite caters to all types of faces and hair texture without too much maintenance. Perfect for those looking to add some flavour and fun to a classic bob. This takes shorter cuts to next-level edgy and ultra-contemporary.
The Curly Lob
The Close Crop
Kate Hudson has made growing out
The easiest way to add flair to a lob without layers is to whip out the curling wand and add some bends through the top layer of hair - the messier, the better. For those with naturally curly hair, this cut will maintain the chin-level length and the blunt bangs, while some gradual layers thrown in will provide even more fullness. “It’s pretty, sophisticated, and customisable,” says Andrea Battista, coowner of Junior & Hatter salon in Miami, on their most-requested style. “It’s a very popular cut for curls, because it can be flattering on many face shapes and curl patterns. Curly girls want something other than long hair. They want a style.” Alanna Arrington is our current inspiration, with her model-off-duty, perfectly tousled curls every time. headway.net.nz 45
what ’s trending A change in hair style or colour can be as inspirational as a new wardrobe or a new relationship! It is important to remain inspired so we keep the magic in what we do and always encourage something new. As we begin the morph into autumn, we hope you find inspiration in our digital edit and keep a little cheeky charm in the essence of your work stralia
The French say you get hungry when you’re eating, and I get inspired when i’m working. It’s my engine.
A tribute – Karl Lagerfeld @alizeecgn @sammcknight1 46 headway.net.nz
On February 19 2019, the fashion, hair and beauty industry lost an icon. Karl Lagerfeld has been called one of the most prolific designers of all time and has headed up some of the biggest fashion houses on the planet. We celebrate some of our favourite inspirational moments and join the farewell to a member of fashion royalty.
erm ai d _ h a
Lately mustard, described as a deep-yet-vibrant blonde, has been giving blush a run for its money on Instagram. The spicy shade makes it wearable across most skin tones and whilst we’re not racing out for a #mustardhair look ourselves, we’re loving the innovation of the colourists – particularly Chris Weber Mirlach of Vanilla Loft, Vancouver.
Mustard is the new platinum
When we decided on #inspire as our autumn theme, naturally there was a lot of discussion as to what inspired the Headway team. Here’s a few of our top Instagram feeds that we regularly go back to when we’re feeling the need for a boost of our creative juices. headway.net.nz 47
sch o u l er
Mullet The return of the mullet on runways for AW19 fashion month was at its most elegant under the guidance of lead stylist Frederic Fekkai, for the Proenza Schouler New York show. Collina Strada put a little more punk into the look, but the reality is whilst it’s called a mullet and has been inspired by 70s chic, this is not your traditional look by any means. More super-slick than any mullets we’ve seen in a long time. Be inspired, not afraid…
Accessories Our love affair with accessories continues and, as predicted in our summer trends, 2019 is the ‘more is more’ year for adornments. Wearing one is great, wearing two, three, four or more is even better. No one has the trend down more than Vanessa Hong – see for yourself. 48 headway.net.nz
Fringe Benefits Rocking a fringe last took our fancy in spring 2017. This season, we’re inspired again. Check out some of our faves; from the original Jane Birkin circa 1960s to current pop stars, models and actresses from both sides of the Atlantic. Whether it’s blunt-cut, side-swept or peek-a-boo, autumn is the season to look at the fringe benefits of bangs.
@ j u l i an
Rich-girl hair ONE TO FOLLOW
Yes, this is an official term for 2019. We’re talking Met Gala, Royal Gala, Oscar-red-carpet rich-girl hair, and it’s all due to the blow wave, not the cost. For a blow wave to look expensive it all comes down to texture from roots to tips and enviable shine. We showcase some of the queens of ‘rich-girl’ hair. headway.net.nz 49
CRYSTAL TWILIGHT By KEVIN MURPHY
HAIR DIRECTOR: Kevin Murphy COLOUR DESIGN DIRECTOR: Kate Reid with Emma Bjorkman, Simone Krutz & Jakub Marek PHOTOGRAPHY: Luis Murphy HAIR TEAM: KEVIN.MURPHY SESSION.MASTERS Craig Hughan & James Nicholson MAKEUP: Hristina Georgievski FASHION STYLING: Emily Ward
Deep within a Baroque castle adorned with crystal chandeliers, fresco-covered ceilings and cool marble walls, a fantasyland of decadence becomes a modern-day party playground taken over by a youthful gang of partygoers. Kevin Murphy’s new COLOR.ME Crystal Twilight collection isn’t bound by convention: individuality shines, as does the hair. Embracing a rainbow of psychedelic colour shimmering from the crystal-drenched ceilings, these multi-faceted hues inspire the creation of a series of elegant but daring shades: from jade, rose and copper, all rich in colour and imagination. “I was inspired by the opulence of the crystal ballroom and the mix of textures on the marbled walls,” says Murphy. “The oversized chandeliers reflected light that made me think about colour and creating a crystal-like shine.”
SPREADING A LITTLE SUNSHINE
Tereze Taber explains why hairdressing is not ‘just business’
he trust between a hairstylist and their client professional way,” says Lynden. is more than just about hair. From restoring Vivo have been offering the Sunshine Box for someone’s confidence by giving them a new two years. At no cost to the stylist, and available look, to knowing intimate secrets about their to anyone from apprentice to manager, why does @vivohairandbeauty lives, many clients often describe their stylist as Vivo place such importance on making things being like ‘part of the family’. In the hair industry, like the Sunshine Box available. “We noticed that an interaction with a client is not just a business transaction. for Christmas or birthdays, clients were bringing in gifts for “Building a relationship with a client requires building trust,” stylists. We realised how much they view their stylist as an says Lynden Mason, co-founder of Vivo Hair & Beauty. “It can intimate part of their circle. We would hear about a stylist who be quite intimidating getting your hair done, because it’s a would buy a client a gift of support during a cancer treatment, vulnerable experience. As a client visits their stylist frequently, for example,” Lynden recalls. “We were so inspired we decided there are often hours spent in direct, intimate communication to implement the Sunshine Box as a way to affirm that what a with them.” hairstylist does for their client isn’t just business. Hairdressing It’s no secret that a hairstylist often doubles as a client is all about relationship”. therapist, sharing in the happiness, drama, sadness, successes In the time that Vivo have been offering the Sunshine Box, and the unexpected in their clients’ lives. “This is where our the response to this initiative has reinforced just how close Sunshine Box comes in,” Lynden explains, logging into a the client and stylist bond is. “We believe your success as an website where Vivo hairstylists can put together customised individual stylist is completely within your control,” Lynden gift boxes for clients. There are several beautifully-packaged says. “Our job as the Vivo Support Team is to provide tools options, with tea, candles, chocolates, and other treats available, to facilitate growth and connection with clients, and make it all ready to be delivered with the click of a button. Whether easy for stylists to do that. The Vivo philosophy is founded on it's to celebrate or commiserate, a stylist is given the option of making clients feel amazing, and providing the Sunshine Box is writing a personalised message, before having it sent to their just one more way to achieve that. It's also really important for client's door. “The Sunshine Box is a way that Vivo stylists can a stylist to feel that they work for a company that encourages communicate to their clients ‘you are important to me’, but in a people to genuinely care.”
A NEW BENCHMARK If you had a wish list for your lightener would it look something like this? •A lightening system that produced high-lift blondes for the cleanest and creamiest tones •Powder that didn’t swell or bleed for total artistic control •Dust-free and creamy consistency for the most beautiful results across LA BIOSTHETIQUE.CO.NZ | 0800 522 467
the board of creative colouring •Gentle on clients’ scalps and environmentally-conscious La Biosthetique’s new Blonde lightening system raises the bar to new heights
Founded in bio-chemistry, delivered in luxury
LATHER UP L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Inforcer Shampoo is the perfect remedy for fragile hair. This reinforcing shampoo targets breakage and split ends, leaving locks soft and healthy, while assisting hair to become stronger and more resistant.
TIME TO SHINE GET READY FOR A BLAST OF CRYSTAL-CLEAR SHINE AND SOFTNESS WITH JOICO BLONDE LIFE BRILLIANT GLOW BRIGHTENING OIL. JUST A SINGLE APPLICATION INSTANTLY REVS UP THE RADIANCE OF EVEN THE LIGHTEST HAIR, NOURISHING AND PROTECTING EACH DELICATE STRAND WITH A MEGA-WATT GLEAM AND A TON OF MOISTURE.
Must-Love Autumn Products
The Headway team selects this season’s hottest hair favourites, both new and established
For texture that feels like a day at the beach, try R+Co Sand Castle. This dry, lightweight, texture creme recreates the look of sun, sand, ocean and wind. Ideal too for absorbing oil whilst also nourishing. 60 headway.net.nz
Sun-weary locks will lap up KMS MOISTREPAIR Revival Crème. Restoring moisture balance and instantly improving manageability, this bodifying creme controls static and flyaways while helping restore hair’s natural surface and internal reconstruction.
BEAUTY IN A BOTTLE
For all hair and skin types, Davines Authentic Moisturising Balm Face Hair & Body is a multipurpose hydrating balm we love. Containing 98% natural ingredients, including shea butter and organically grown safflower oil, use as a hair mask for shiny, smooth strands; a pomade to hide split ends; or as a nourishing face or body treatment.
Autumn is a time for replenishing sun-burnished locks and there’s no better pick-me-up than Joico Defy Damage Protective Masque, for bond-strengthening and colour longevity. Proactively building hair’s resistance to damage, this masque deeply replenishes hair without weighing it down.
For hair wellbeing, try Davines OI Absolute Beautifying Shampoo. This creamy cleanser gives hair extraordinary softness, shine and body. Anti-ageing and antioxidant actions are thanks to the main natural ingredient Roucou oil.
9 MOISTURE FIX De Lorenzo Satur8 is a weightless, revitalising and hydrating foam that renews and detangles. Providing daily protection from the natural elements with a combination of Baobab protein, cucumber and aloe vera extracts, Satur8 improves softness and manageability.
BRUSH UP THE NEW LUST ROUND CERAMIC BRUSHES ARE PERFECT FOR CREATING WAVES, CURLS OR SLEEK STRAIGHTNESS. DESIGNED TO RETAIN HEAT FOR A FASTER BLOW-DRY, THESE VERSATILE AND UNIQUE LUXURY BRUSHES DELIVER VOLUME, BODY, PREVENT STATIC AND ELIMINATE HAIR CATCHING AND PULLING. PLUS, THE ERGONOMIC HANDLE OFFERS COMFORT AND EASE OF USE. THE RANGE INCLUDES THE FLEXIBLE VENT BRUSH, PADDLE BRUSH, MINI CUSHION BRUSH AND THE TEASING BRUSH.
BALANCING ACT De-stress your scalp with Matrix Biolage R.A.W. Scalp Care Rebalance Conditioner. This refreshing conditioner with willow bark and rosemary offers all-over scalpsoothing moisture, along with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. headway.net.nz 61
POUR HOMME La Biosthetique’s new Homme range is geared towards men’s skin and hair needs, adhering to the La Biosthétique philosophy: the best natural ingredients, optimum function and perfect harmony between products. The product range includes a Hair, Beard & Body Wash, Shaving Gel, Hair & Scalp Tonic, Styling Gel, Powder Wax, Fibre Paste and After-Shave Face & Beard Care.
For guys looking to get a bit of body back in their life, Black Angel For Men Volumising Spray is just the ticket. Enriched with silk amino acids and keratin to increase shine and improve style structure, this firm-hold spray leaves hair looking and feeling fuller and thicker.
LUXURY BOOST ORIBE HAVE CREATED A 3-PRODUCT RANGE OF POWER DROPS, DESIGNED TO SUPER-CHARGE YOUR HAIRCARE. COLOR PRESERVATION BOOSTER, HYDRATION & ANTI-POLLUTION BOOSTER, & REPAIR BOOSTER ARE HIGHLY CONCENTRATED SERUMS THAT WORK TO GIVE HAIR BACK THE NUTRITION, PROTECTION, MOISTURE AND STRENGTH IT NEEDS. 62 headway.net.nz
For hair lacking in protein, try Organic Colour Systems PowerBuild Revamp Treatment. Revamp contains powerful natural quinoa protein, to restore even the most extremely damaged hair, giving back strength, protection and volume.
Redken City Beats allows you to rock the boldest hair colours imaginable. The range of acidic conditioning colour creams have now added Jet Black to the mix, allowing for even more creative and super on-trend colour combinations.
Nourish and moisturise dehydrated hair with highly powerful natural superfood ingredients thanks to Pureology Hydrate Superfood Treatment. Avocado and coconut oil, vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, proteins and amino acids work together to strengthen and restore vibrance, shine and smoothness.
Instant care and colour protection is made easy with Goldwell Dualsenses Intensive Conditioning Serums. The 7 variations for all hair needs now neutralise pH and peroxide residue, with new amplifying ingredients to boost the individual beautification of each serum. Plus, the simple new dispensing system makes for ease of use.
TRANSFORMATIONAL SMOOTHING Cezanne have released Instant Keratin Smoothing Treatment, an ultra-fast, spray-in smoothing treatment that brings hair to its most beautiful condition “in an instant,” without damage or harsh chemicals. This advanced formula features fast application and processing time (45 to 60 minutes) with transformational results lasting up to 6 weeks.
PUMP UP THE VOLUME The full-fat alternative to skinny hair, Fudge Professional Xpander Foam is perfect for layering with finishing products and leaves hair bulging with shine and fullness. Plus, it’s gentle and conditioning on fragile hair too.
ELEVEN’S MIRACLE HAIR TREATMENT IS ONE OF OUR FAVOURITES. FOR ALL HAIR TYPES, THIS LIGHTWEIGHT LEAVE-IN TREATMENT DELIVERS 11 BENEFITS, INCLUDING PROTECTION, HYDRATION, FRIZZ-CONTROL, DETANGLING, BODY ENHANCEMENT, REPAIR, STRENGTH AND MORE.
HAIR SALON SLUNDRE In Iwaki, Japan, lies a contemporary salon inspired by the buildingâ€™s
ot your average salon space, Hair Salon Slundre is a standout location. Slundre, a word associated with the feeling of â€œslowly but surely", aimed to become a hair salon that took root in the region, steadily but slowly, whilst growing. A place that offers the best hairstyles on the market and somewhere that a variety of people can gather and connect. In the words of the team at Slundre, a place where something interesting is born. Boasting a sophisticated yet functional design by Cohta Asano from BHIS Architects, this Japanese salon occupies the glazed top floor of a shop in Iwaki, Fukushima Prefecture. The existing space previously housed a restaurant, and featured a roof that angled inward creating two triangular indents on one side of the space to create a glazed gable wall. Influenced by the shape of the roof, Asano created a series of custom partitions and furniture.
slundre.com ARC HITEC T: Cohta Asano of BHIS PHOTOGR APHY: Toshiyuki Azuma
existing geometry. Sharleen Singh explores this striking location
The resulting angles help divide up the space for various functions, as well as creating storage, while ensuring the 137-square-metre salon retains the biggest capacity. The existing steel frame was incorporated into the design, with new additions to support some of the walls. There is an interesting motivation behind this unique space, an urge to create a haven for more than just fantastic hair. With a vision to influence the industry and clients alike, the team at Slundre tell us about their inspirations behind creating their salon.
Tell us about the salon design. What inspired you? The shop’s ceiling was originally triangle-shaped, so we came up with an idea that converted all objects (walls, shelves, mirrors, etc) into the same shape. Using unpainted wood, iron pillars and furniture, such as chairs, we added
colours into our space. The main floor of the large space incorporates American industrial design centred on midcentury. A sub-floor lounge room is based on Brooklyn, New York, and Slundre is made up of these two spaces. Our store space is available not only as a hair salon, but also for various workshops. We aim to be a location where we can interact and collaborate widely with local creators and artists.
What salon treatments and products do you offer? We feature naturally finished hair styles, highlights and Balayage colouring. In-salon we utilise L’Oréal Professionnel, Wella Professionals and Japanese products, ARIMINO and Hoyu.
Describe your salon in 8 words New salon that continues evolving above and beyond. headway.net.nz 65
When it comes to serums and styling products, I’ve found most that I’ve tried tend to add an unwanted crunch to my already dry hair. With a non-sticky, natural formula (a huge plus, especially when honey is concerned), Matrix Biolage R.A.W. Smoothing Styling Milk smooths down even the most stubborn of hairs – especially when it’s super-thick, which is what I really struggle with. I use a small amount after washing my hair, comb it through with my fingers, blow-dry and voila! My hair always feels polished and nourished after using this little bottle of goodness and I also love the soft scent of this gorgeous milk. Hands-down, my personal game-changer.
Game-Changers What the Headway team can’t get enough of this season…and beyond
I live dry shampoo. I breathe dry shampoo. What’s that scent I’m wearing? Probably dry shampoo, which means I’m 95% sure I’ve tried every professional version out there. Some are pretty good actually, some are downright awful. For me, the crème de la crème, the ultimate, is R+Co Death Valley Dry Shampoo. It’s never let me down. One of the things I like best is that this bottle of fresh hair leaves zero sticky residue, meaning a quick spritz and my hair feels like it’s just had a wash. Volume, fullness, root-lift and texture, without that gritty, can’t-get-my-comb-throughit-smoothly feeling. Plus, it’s great for when you’re wanting to recreate that sexy, mussed-up look as well. Love!
I am seriously obsessed with De Lorenzo Novafusion Colour Care Silver Shampoo and Conditioner! I LOVE the way it tones and colour corrects my hair. It is literally the best product I’ve tried and the great thing is, a little goes a long way. I’m such a fan I’ve got all of my blonde-haired friends onto it and they agree: after using these yummy products, you feel like you’ve been to the hairdresser and had a professional tend to your locks. It really helps improve the condition of my hair, leaving it feeling and looking healthy and shiny. (Cheeky tone of voice). I always leave it in longer than the desired time!
IMAGE: Karen Thompson
6 SHADES, LEVELS 4-9 EXTRA COVERAGE FOR OVER 50% GREY HAIR NATURAL LOOKING RESULTS
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ART DI REC TOR: Bruno Marc HAIR: Marc Antoni Artistic Team PHOTOGR APH E R: Richard Miles Photography M AKE UP: Katie Moore FASH ION ST YLI NG: Ellen Spiller
SHIFT headway.net.nz 69
I NS PI R ATIO N As the winners of the British Hairdressing Awards Artistic Team of the Year, the Marc Antony team created a collection with more of an art influence, combining architecture and structure. “We kept the hair beautiful, yet disciplined,” says Art Director, Bruno Marc. “We wanted people to really get drawn in by the hair. To win this award, it’s got to be about more than just beautiful hair and we wanted to create something that was captivating and fresh.”
COMPLETE YOUR COLOR Every day, your hair is exposed to aggressors that diminish color vitality and compromise hair health. The groundbreaking Moroccanoil Color Complete regimen is the first of its kind with advanced proprietary technologies to combat all daily sources of color loss— including chemical damage, mechanical damage, oxidation and heat styling.
T H E R E G I M EN
After 10 washes, the Moroccanoil Color Complete Collection is scientifically proven to extend color life and vibrancy by 100%.*
IN- SA L ON SERV IC E Start at the salon with the ChromaTech Service—a 2-step professional service that works in perfect synergy for maximum color intake and retention.**
In-salon regimen begins with ChromaTech PRIME, which helps to increase color deposit for more even results. Following your color service, ChromaTech POST is an essential step to seal in color for long-term retention.
AT- H OM E M A INT ENA NC E To extend the results of the ChromaTech Service, continue with a simple at-home routine to maintain, sustain and protect your color.
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*Based on clinical test conducted on human hair against a control group after 5 washes, versus 10 with the Moroccanoil Color Complete regimen. **Visit your local Moroccanoil salon to experience the ChromaTech Service.
Moroccanoil Color Continue Shampoo & Conditioner is a powerful duo that works to gently cleanse your hair while providing intense nourishment and help improve hair’s quality, resulting in superior color retention. “Oxidation—a reaction that affects hair color pigment when hair is exposed to UV rays—can especially cause hair color to lose vibrancy and appear brassy,” says Moroccanoil Celebrity Colorist Lorri Goddard. “Using Moroccanoil Protect & Prevent Spray as a daily leave-in conditioner will help to protect the hair from oxidation by absorbing damaging UV rays, preventing color fade and brassiness.”
CREATIVE MINDS Fudge Professional National Educator, Anna Collison, reports back from her trip to Sassoon’s London Academy @fudgehair
Sassoon himself had on hairdressing, reinventing the bob and introducing washand-wear styles in the 1960’s. One of the most important and impactful lessons I took away from my time with the Sassoon stylists is how innovative every stylist can be given the confidence and the tools to shine. For me, this year is all about getting creative in-salon with our Fudge stylists. Layering warm tones with cooler, light platinum tones, with nudes, mocha root melts seamlessly blended down to soft honey ends, and mixing new formulas as often as possible, to encourage stylists to trust what they know and create their own magic.
Anna Collison working her magic at the Sassoon Academy
PHOTOGRAPHY: Fudge Professional & supplied
like to start each New Year refreshed from the summer break and inspired by the trends I see organically happening around me here in New Zealand. This year however, started in winter for me. It was all about bundled-up, fuzzy-hat-wearing glory when I was fortunate enough to be in London for the Fudge Professional International Educator Training. Myself and over thirty educators from all over the world were invited to the Vidal Sassoon Academy last month, which was awe-inspiring in itself. But what really floored me was the amount of passion and creativity in that building and the Sassoon team themselves – they are an incredible group of masters of their art. Their enthusiasm was infectious as I spent practical time collaborating on looks with them using Fudge colour, working together to create unique shade formulas and apply them in unconventional ways. Most stylists in this industry are aware of the huge impact Vidal
In Conversation With Alishia Smart Introducing the new General Manager for L’Oréal NZ’s Professional Products Division, Alishia Smart
What are you most excited about in terms of your new role? I’m really excited to be back in New 76 headway.net.nz
Zealand working with a great team and many talented clients. Although it will be challenging at times, I feel really well prepared for this role. The past decade working in the Australian industry has given me invaluable experience and a much broader perspective in terms of thinking globally but interpreting for a local context. I plan to tap into the best insights and resources from Australia that will enable us to bring our A-game to our business partners in New Zealand. And it’s great to be back in familiar territory, working
with our teams and partners, many of whom I remember from my earlier days as a L’Oréal technician. It’s very different, but it feels like home.
What is your key focus for the brands in 2019? We’re focused on the business partnerships with our salons and building even stronger relationships. We want to work closely with them to identify opportunities and challenges in their business and find sustainable solutions together. Without sounding
PHOTOGRAPHY: L’Oréal PP Division
With over 20 years experience in various roles across all PPD brands for both L’Oréal Australia and New Zealand, it’s fair to say Alishia Smart has returned from 11 years in Australia with a wealth of industry knowledge and the skills ready to lead the local team. We talk to Alishia about her key focus for the brands, her inspiration, and the challenges NZ salons are facing today.
like a politician, it’s my mission to make the salon experience great again! I know we can do this by supporting our salons with the best education, insights and tools, so the salon visit for a client is a non-negotiable destination. Helping salons to understand consumer thinking and build a more consumercentric business is the key to deliver on their expectations today, and also for tomorrow. For instance, we are seeing the rise of the dual-hair colour user - the client who is alternating between colouring her hair at home and having a salon service - and this is a growing trend. Research also tells us that their preferred memorable experience is in a beautiful space that’s relaxing, where they can step off the rollercoaster of their lives for a while. We also know that the average client spend in-salon is higher today because they are visiting less often and stretching out these visits. We need to lift our service offering to entice clients back to the salon with new innovations, new services and new experiences, such as root stretches and glosses in between haircuts. My absolute priority is to ensure my team is well-equipped to have
these discussions with salon owners, sharing insights and developing a plan together.
What do you believe are the biggest strengths of L’Oréal NZ PPD at the moment? We are obsessed with education and relentless training at L’Oréal because we must continue to valorise the profession and ensure hairdressers remain trusted experts with our clients. It’s a responsibility which we take very seriously and significantly invest in. Our education and training is world-class and we are constantly looking for ways to innovate our courses and develop our education teams. Empowering industry experts with knowledge and confidence is vital to future-proofing our amazing industry.
What do you believe are some of the biggest challenges for salons in New Zealand right now? Attracting and retaining great staff. Maintaining a high level of training and development to ensure consistency in the customer experience is difficult, not to mention the cost of staff turnover. As
Film: Slipper and the Rose, a story of Cinderella. I love a good fairytale ending Book: Does Google Maps count as a book? It’s my ‘go-to’ since arriving back in NZ! Fashion Designer: Sass & Bide. Netflix Obsession: Frankie and Grace is one of my favourites because it’s quirky, fun and about women reinventing their lives and living independently. Travel Destination: Paris because it looks just like it does in the movies. Actor: Mathew McConaughey because he is friggin hot. Must-Have Product: L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Fix Design.
a good business partner, we need to be having those discussions with our salons on what it takes to be a great employer in today’s workplace, in order to attract and retain staff – such as flexible working arrangements - which is a necessity now. Salons also need to be digitallyfocused and aware of the power of social in order to really thrive and this is where we can add value for our partners. Our digital team can offer some great insights and coaching to ensure they’re ahead of the game. But we’re also aware that every salon business is unique so our partnerships and guidance are bespoke.
What inspires you personally and professionally? Professionally, being a hairdresser myself, I’m inspired to work alongside the industry that formed my career. I’m passionate about building business partnerships and supporting the hairdressing industry to ensure growth. On a personal level, my motivation is reinforced when I think of growing up in a family-operated business. I understand what it takes to run your own business and the importance of strong business partnerships with suppliers.
RICH BOYS GONE ROGUE
HAI R: Keera K Sira @ Toni&Guy Ilford, UK PHOTOGR APH Y: Tony Le-Britton M AKE - UP: Roseanna Velin FASH ION ST YLING: Krishan Parmar
I NS PI R ATIO N This much-applauded collection was inspired by boys who have left their country roots in search of the bright lights of the city. For the Toni&Guy team, it was all about pairing classic cuts and sharp tailoring with edgy models and undone styling.
what ’s trending Headway | PROMOTION
Inspire - a verb. To fill someone with the urge to do or feel something, especially creative. At the end of the awards season, we have historically celebrated the fashion, hair and makeup looks. This awards season, we’re taking a look at movies themselves, both recognised and yet to be released for our inspiration. Grab your popcorn and be prompted to make some wardrobe and attitude changes – be inspired.
The Tarantino effect Always an inspiration, Tarantino’s ‘Once Upon a Time in Hollywood’ is set to encourage a new wave of trends from the summer of 1969. The anticipated release also has special meaning for Beverly Hills 90210 fans, as Luke Perry’s last performance before his death. This movie, like many of Tarantino’s, will no doubt prompt a new outlook for many. Enjoy our selection of some of Tarantino’s most iconic looks. @firstmanmovie
Queen Replaces The Crown You can’t deny the accuracy of the costume designers for capturing the era of the successful series ‘The Crown’, and the surprise movie hit ’Bohemian Rhapsody’. We’ve gone for the legacy of Freddie as our pick this autumn though – amazing. 82 headway.net.nz
The V neck The only man who, in our humble opinion, can get away with a shirtless V is the lead from ‘First Man’, Ryan Gosling himself. Championed by Prada & Lanvin this season, the V outdoes the crew hands-down to 2019.
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SUITS ME Anne O’Brien looks at what’s happening in the near future for men’s style
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Davines Naturaltech Rebalancing Shampoo
ast autumn, we celebrated the Year of the Dog and the association of ‘Man’s Best Friend’ with imagery used in skincare and grooming products (beards in particular). Ironically, the start of the Year of the Pig saw Gillette release a #metoo-inspired ad campaign that created considerable backlash...without a British bulldog in sight. A lot can happen in a year, particularly in such a rapidly growing market as men’s grooming, and for volume 42 we begin another four-part series where we look at some of the early predictions on style (autumn), men in wellness (winter), what the lads are doing about saving the planet (spring) and how technology is impacting our industry (summer). We hope you enjoy our edits, Q&A’s and insights as much as we enjoy researching them. We start with our runway edit on what’s inspiring us in the world of men’s style for 2019. We’ve covered our top three – the suit (who can resist), holsters (not so sure) and how prints rule over logos (love).
Fudge Blow Dr y Put
The death of the suit has been a regular fashion editorial feature over the last four years. Some say this is due to the fact that we’re becoming increasingly home-based and more casual in our approach to commercial practice, and the ‘need’ to wear a suit to present as an authority figure is diminishing. Then the suit was redefined. It’s been 100 years since the suit was launched and it seems the tailored look is making a comeback. The silhouette is more interesting and fabrics are definitely louder. The leader of the pack is Balenciaga according to the media coverage from last month’s fashion weeks. Described as intriguing yet elegant, it sounds wonderful and we’re all for it. Out of those jeans and back into the tailored look for 2019.
An ge l
Redken Brews Dishevel Fiber Cream
ce Black Angel S ven tro o r P n
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PRINTS Finally, graphic prints are back and nudging 90s logomania dressing off its perch, and we think it’s the bees knees. A poorly made t-shirt that screams the name of a fashion house at you and costs as much as a student loan are no longer seen as the driving force for fashion. Designers have begun to design again. Inspired by nature, film and music, they are using their imagination. The year looks full of promise as the art of design is welcomed back to the world of style.
Goldwell Dualsenses Texture Cream Paste
PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied & shutterstock
HOLSTER Make sure you’ve got the jargon right when looking for the latest in men’s accessories this year. The ‘man bag’ is no more and has been replaced with the holster or chest pack. The runway saw an introduction of what was described as ‘pockets galore’, with the term ‘wearable luggage’ being coined several times. Style icons are more classic sci-fi, with Flash Gordon and Blade Runner comparisons, but when you’re actually wanting to find something, are too many pockets and storage places a nightmare even for super-heroes? We’ll see how long this fashion trend lasts before ‘I can’t find my keys’ means we may have to get practical again in the future, regardless of what Flash Gordon thinks.
Muse By ANGELO SEMINAR A
HAIR: Angelo Seminara, International Creative Director for Davines PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew Oâ€™Toole MAKEUP: Laura Dominique STYLIST: Lotta Aspenberg PRODUCTS: Davines
Defined modern structures turn their back on gravity, while interrupted colour patterns deceive the eye and awaken curiosity. Angelo Seminaraâ€™s latest collection was achieved with revolutionary colour, cutting and styling techniques, mixed with innovative thinking and noncompromised detailing. Futuristic and electro-static, sophisticated and feminine, each look is variable in structure, length and colour. The collection shows how art, style and science combine to excite the mind and please the senses. headway.net.nz 91
Q Colour Queen
As Creative Colour Director at Wella Professionals, Marie Uva is well-known for her beautiful, award-winning colour work. The salon owner and highly-respected colourist talks to Headway about new Wella Professionals KOLESTON PERFECT with ME+TM, her favourite colour techniques and what beautiful hair means to her @wellapro_anz @marieuva @uvasalon
What is so unique about Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+TM? New Koleston Perfect with ME+ technology is a game-changer in professional hair colour. In fact, it is the biggest innovation for Wella in over a century! I’m sure that, like me, many people in the industry find that clients can be concerned over damage to their hair when colouring and may not be as willing to take the leap as a result. It’s often noticeable in the warmer, sunnier months when clients may skip a service thinking that their hair needs a break. This new formulation from Wella Professionals is the result of more than seven years of research. It provides less damage to the hair, colour after colour,* without compromising on pure, even, and vibrant results from root to tip.
What do you love most about this new range? I love that Wella has approached ‘damage’ needs whilst still delivering fantastic colour results. I’ve done a few transformations with the new range now, and it really does add a deeper, richer colour for beautiful, vibrant results – not to mention incredible grey coverage!
How do you think new Koleston Perfect with ME+’s colour offering will benefit both salon staff and clients? I think clients will love the colour that can be achieved with the new range. The Pure Balance TechnologyTM ensures even, balanced, and true-to-tone colour from root to tip. So many clients aren’t aware of the brand of colour that is being used, but they’ll definitely notice the results with the new range! The benefits for salons are huge too. At the end of the day, our role is to deliver beautiful hair that our clients love, so advancements like this can only be a good thing. The application process has progressed also. Salon staff will notice a difference in consistency and fragrance which makes the application process easier and more enjoyable. The new
consistency glides easily onto hair.
What does beautiful hair mean to you? Aside from my staple love (volume), to me beautiful hair is vibrant, healthy and ‘well-fed’. Regardless of changes and trends in colour, cut and style, if your hair is healthy it shows, as does your confidence in owning it. I always recommend my clients invest in quality haircare products to maintain their look. The new INVIGO range is the perfect partner for coloured hair. The Color Brilliance range ensures tone is kept vibrant, even throughout the summer months, and the Nutri-Enrich range – especially the mask – restores life to strands that have been having too much of a good time. The range offers salon-worthy results in minimum time, so there is no excuse not to treat yourself.
This season, I’ve been loving using Balayage and Wella Color Fresh CREATE to push the boundaries with more ‘out there’ colours, such as pinks, purples and corals. For clients who aren’t quite ready to go the whole way with a bright transformation, it’s a beautiful way to add personality to a look.
What motivates you personally and professionally each day? Professionally, I love working with the best in the industry. I’m so lucky that I get to work with such creative, dedicated people. I love that everyone I work with, both in my salon team and in my role as Creative Colour Director at Wella Professionals, brings different strengths and outlooks that come together to create beautiful, wearable hair – what Wella is all about.
What is inspiring you in your work currently? I love it when the seasons change. As much as I’m not looking forward to summer leaving us, this is always the time of year that I see my customers looking to breathe new life into their style. Whether it’s a dramatic colour transformation, embracing the chop, or just wanting a fresher look with a more subtle change, it’s inspiring to be challenged.
Which colours are you enjoying creating this season from Koleston Perfect with ME+? The new Koleston Perfect with ME+ range includes several new colours, as well as the Wella classics. I am currently loving red. I recently created a stunning, deep red transformation on a client insalon; the finished look was so vibrant and the new ME+ formulations added a gorgeous silk-like shine. Definitely one of my favourite colour looks in a long time.
What colour techniques are you using on clients most often right now? headway.net.nz 93
PLANNING FOR SUCCESS Achieve your business dreams with these simple yet effective tips for making it happen
t’s 2019 and we’re feeling fresh and ready for a fantastic year ahead! To make sure that’s exactly how it turns out, here are some tips on setting goals and how to plan to ensure you achieve them. Let’s get started…
GOALS Setting goals helps you to plan, prioritise and focus your time. Goals also help you to reflect on your success as you can see progress on what you’re aiming to achieve. They can be short or longterm and in fact, it can be useful and motivating to break down a long-term goal into shorter goals or milestones to achieve along the way.
VISION AND STRATEGY To develop your goals, you first need to determine your overall vision and strategy for what you want to achieve long-term. Essentially, think of two or three things you’d like to do in the next one, two or five years time to improve your business. This will give you direction on how to spend your time.
SET SMART GOALS There’s a reason SMART goals are talked about everywhere. This goal-setting framework is simple and effective, especially for larger projects. •Specific: Your goal should be clearly defined and easy to understand. For example, if you want to improve your
rebooking rate, do you need to do this across all your services or only some? •Measurable: You need to know when you’ve achieved your goal or how you’re progressing towards it. For example, your rebooking rate is 40% and you want it to be 60%. •Agreed upon: Get agreement on your goal with everyone who needs to be involved in helping to achieve it. This could be your salon manager, your team, and your business coach. •Realistic: Make sure your goal is achievable with the resources, knowledge and time you have available. Putting unrealistic pressure on yourself to get more done rarely ends in goals being achieved. •Time-based: Set a realistic time frame to achieve your goal. This should allow you enough time to achieve the goal but not too much time that it causes you to lose focus on the goal.
WRITE IT DOWN Once you’ve established your goals, write them down and put them on display somewhere prominent. You should have a constant reminder of what you’re working towards. This could be on your wall as a poster, stuck to your fridge or the background on your devices.
PLANNING Having your goals in place makes planning much easier. It’s tempting to jump right in and start doing things.
However, taking the time to organise and plan is a really important part of time management. Research shows that when you have a plan, you're less likely to procrastinate and more likely to get things done.
LONG-TERM PLANNING Turn your goals into a long-term plan of how you’re going to get there. This will help you ensure you’re working on the right things to move you in the right direction. As the saying goes, a goal without a plan is just a dream.
FIND YOUR STARTING POINT Look at how you’re currently performing in relation to each of your goals and determine what you’ll need to do to achieve them. Use the reporting tools you have available to you. For instance, your salon and spa software should have your key business metrics and media tools that will report on the success of your social media activity. You might have to do some extra research too talking to your staff, business partners or accountant.
BREAK IT DOWN Once you know what your starting point is, you can start to see what you need to change, stop,- or introduce for you to achieve your goals. Turn this into a series of tasks or projects. For example, if your goal is to be able to hire another
Look at how you’re currently performing in relation to each of your goals and determine what you’ll need to do to achieve them. Use the reporting tools you have available to you. 94 headway.net.nz
stylist, you need to ensure you will have the client base, income and resources, such as space, to support that stylist.
PUT IN A TIMELINE
if you only have half an hour to spare. Now you have a monthly plan so you can work towards your goal over the year, rather than become overwhelmed with how you’ll achieve your big goals.
Spread the actions throughout the time frame you have chosen. When it comes to bigger projects, make sure you break them down into individual tasks with shorter time frames. It’ll make the project seem more achievable and allow you to complete part of the project, even
As well as planning for the long-term, it’s important to plan each day to ensure you have time to work on these long-term goals. It’s easy to get stuck in the day-today routine so having a daily task list or
Anna Koot is a Marketing Executive at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software. To learn more about what Kitomba can do for your business, visit: www.kitomba.com or call 0800 161 101.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied & shutterstock
planner is a helpful tool. Now’s the time to sit down, start setting your goals and plan on how to achieve them. Use this as a guide to help you through the process and we wish you all the best for the year!
s the majority of tion i your a r curre d ene g nt empl stan l r e d o a n y e u e i s. Do they nn e l ur salon c il ultu m at yo h ndering a w re is pt of enge e c about n o , or has the c pos itiv your management pa ew f o g ork c st? in ulture become a th
Family Ties Headway introduces a new feature where we discuss all things culture; from art, through to commerce and thought-provoking topics. This issue we begin with company culture. Anne O’Brien gives us her thoughts…
IMAGE: Framer from CS&Co
ecently over dinner with family and friends (age gap late fifties through to early twenties), a conversation began about global companies whose staff enjoy annual leave in excess of 6 weeks a year or, in some cases, unlimited leave. The onus is on the staff member to get their job done and manage their own time off at their discretion. Sounds amazing, but statistically the company that has unlimited holidays actually has one of the lowest annual leave figures. Staff were actually working whilst they were on leave to avoid a drop in performance or to avoid letting the team down. An interesting use of reversed HR psychology perhaps? You could question whether this new ‘culture’ may or may not have resulted in greater productivity versus added stress at work, or job satisfaction versus fear of losing face. A comment was made about family businesses and how the culture of the family business is such that staff do not ‘suffer’ the same as corporate employees. There is no doubt that the ridiculous hours some graduates choose to work is excessive and could be seen as suffering. However, this is a privileged career choice and therefore is it really more like (dare we say it) ambition? Alternatively, the small business model has a reputation for being somewhere with fewer opportunities to learn, the hours are less, and the atmosphere generally more ‘fun’. The reality is your business’ turnover should not determine your culture. This is an urban myth. The key is ensuring that all staff are aware of what the salon is trying to achieve (guidelines for success); the boundaries for what is acceptable to reach these goals (policy); and ultimately, how you want to do business should be made clear right from the first interview. Owners need to communicate how and why they run the business the way they do. If you’re not
doing this, then the fault lies with you as the owner, not with the staff member. Making your business out as being a ‘fun’ place to work will mean that’s exactly what it will be. Ensuring your business has an open communication style that encourages working smart and thinking about the most effective way of looking after your clients, has a far better chance of being a successful business. Not necessarily ‘fun’, but certainly happy and progressive. The conversation ended with my usual rant about how there is no such thing as a millennial attitude. Judging work ethics based solely on age is as redundant as judging skills by gender or nationality. We are fortunate to have the majority of our staff aged between 18 and 35 years old. They are professional, work smart and are reliable. They’re millennials who know what is expected of them. We don’t recruit outside of our ‘tribe’ because that means someone else is having to do more work while someone else is having ‘fun’. Age is not the deciding factor, attitude is. Most salons in New Zealand would describe themselves as being a business with strong family values – a very common and positive way of describing your culture. This doesn’t mean small thinking or small successes though. This means a shared valued system with a group of people who know how to have a social conversation that stimulates thought, that work well together and enjoy the community achievement, whether they are older than Nana or younger than cousin Jack. Do you have an opinion on work culture you would like to share? Contact the HWY editorial team on firstname.lastname@example.org headway.net.nz 97
By JIM SHAW
HAIR: Jim Shaw @ Essensuals Toni&Guy, Billericay, UK PHOTOGR APH Y: Tony Le-Britton ST YLIST: Bernard Connelly M AKE UP: Roseann Velin
I NS PI R ATIO N Jim Shaw was awarded Best International Men’s Commercial Collection at the International Hairdressing Awards, with this series of shots entitled ‘Decade’. “The looks in Decade were inspired by a decade of my collections and takes the best from each year to create an ultimate collection that reflects my signature style,” says Shaw. Shaw has dedicated his career to male grooming excellence. Not only is he the only leading men’s stylist of essensuals MEN in the UK, but has an array of previous accolades under his belt, including BHA Men’s Hairdresser of the Year. “To win this award is incredible and something I have dedicated my career towards. I can’t wait to see what further opportunities lie ahead.”
THE ART OF LIVING WELL Experts in wellbeing since 1985
Discover our potent, hand-crafted essential oil blends for everyday wellbeing Pioneers in aromatherapy and mindful beauty, Aromatherapy Associates helps you find time to stop and create a balance in your life. Addressing your specific concerns both inside and out with our finest hand-blended, therapeutic grade essential oil-based products, expect to be taken on a sensory journey to enhance overall wellbeing.
Combining 30 yearsâ€™ experience and heritage in the finest natural hand-blended, therapeutic grade essential oils with the latest technology, Aromatherapy Associates delivers an array of award-winning luxury bath, body and skincare products to enhance the state of the physical, mental and emotional wellbeing. Today, it is used and highly recommended by professional therapists and experts in holistic wellness in the finest luxury spas around the world.
"It's more than a business for us, it's a way of life" -Geraldine Howard, Co-Founder of Aromatherapy Associates
To learn more or for details on becoming an Aromatherapy Associates stockist email email@example.com or call 0800 105 107
C O M O
SHAMBHALA ESTATE Be inspired by Bali, as Sharleen Singh discovers an Indonesian wellness oasis
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OMO Shambhala Estate is a true residential ‘retreat for change’ that combines a deep-rooted approach to wellness, with stateof-the-art facilities and remarkable villa accommodation. The location is unique; an auspicious and spiritual enclave of jungle just north of Ubud in Bali, where guests relax to the sounds of the rustling jungle and rumbling Ayung River.
A NEW PURPOSE
“COMO Shambhala’s greater purpose is to clear the mind of all but thoughts of better physical, mental and spiritual health”
PHOTOGRAPHY: COMO Hotels and Resorts
The Estate is an extraordinary 9.3 hectare location on a jungle-covered riverbank, and a 20-minute drive from the inland town of Ubud. In 2004, the COMO Group changed the property to launch it anew, with a completely altered purpose, supported by substantial health facilities and extended accommodation, allowing the estate to become the world’s first full-service residential health retreat and holiday resort in-one.
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NATURE’S DESIGN The architecture of the Estate’s five Suite residences combine local stone, wood and traditional alang-alang roofing. Interiors of the COMO Shambhala health facilities and accommodations – including four Private Villas, five Retreat Pool Villas (each with a lounge area and private pool) – are by Koichiro Ikebuchi. Ikebuchi’s uncomplicated, succinct approach to design allows guests to engage with COMO Shambhala’s greater purpose, which is to clear the mind of all but thoughts of better physical, mental and spiritual health.
HEALING PHILOSOPHY COMO Shambhala provides a total 360-degree experience closely tailored to each individual’s needs, offering comprehensive lifestyle as well as healing programmes to mend mind, body and spirit. Facilities, which include Ojas (the principal treatment area), Shikara (where consultants and the activity centre are located), and Kedara (the water gardens positioned near the Ayung River, with four additional treatment pavilions with rest areas, baths and showers) draw water from The Source, the Estate’s natural spring. In total, there are 13 treatment areas (including seven for couples), an outdoor hydrotherapy pool, swimming pool, yoga room, Pilates studio, a separate male/female steam room and sauna, a fully-equipped indoor gym with dramatic views, an outdoor jungle gym with a climbing wall, and four consultation rooms.
PHOTOGRAPHY: COMO Hotels and Resorts
EXPERT INSIGHT Guests who want to make a lasting commitment to change can embark on one of the targeted Wellness Programmes - Cleanse, Be Active, Ayurvedic and Bespoke - starting from three nights. COMO Shambhala also works closely with a selection of visiting masters, invited by the property to lead retreat weeks throughout the year. These teachers, of whom there are many, include yoga and Pilates instructors, life coaches and energy healers. Others host specialist learning seminars, with subjects ranging from Tibetan Buddhism to meditation.
HOLISTIC APPROACH Therapists deliver different types of hands-on healing, recommended according to each client's end goal. Traditional Eastern techniques include Thai, Indonesian, and Ayurvedic massage (Abhyanga, Pizhychil and
Shirodhara all feature). Bodycare specialists are available for various hydrotherapies, and aestheticians for skin and noninvasive anti-ageing treatments, including aromatherapy facials. To complete the holistic approach, there is an emphasis on cuisine, with an on-site nutritionist liaising between the guest and kitchens to ensure all personal specifics are taken care of. COMO Shambhala does not stipulate calorie-counting diets, but fosters a more balanced approach, encouraging guests to enjoy their food and its creation while maintaining a life-long interest in the benefit of good nutrition. A remarkable location to inspire your mind, body and soul. comohotels.com/comoshambhalaestate @comohotels
Not tested on animals Made in New Zealand Reputable brand of 45 years Used by expert beauty therapists
Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care ticks all the boxes.
Over 45 years of looking after Kiwi skin For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on:
T: 0800 105 107 • E: firstname.lastname@example.org • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz
beaut y news Brow Game Strong Eye of Horus’ Universal Brow Lash Serum may just be the easiest and quickest way to great brows. Easy to apply, this magical product not only gives the illusion of fuller, larger brows, but its key natural botanical ingredients nourish the hairs for ultimate brow health. An all-inclusive product for goddesses world-wide.cs.co.nz
Nature’s brilliant colour and dazzling shimmer offer up the inspiration for fresh, luminous looks in Jane Iredale’s new season collection. The line-up includes a gorgeous Solar Flare Eyeshadow Kit with botanical extracts to soothe and nurture, new Ash Blonde GreatShape Eyebrow Kit, PureGloss Lip Gloss in three new shades and the beautifully-hued Sunset PurePressed Blush. psb.net.nz
Find your new autumn fave with CND™ Vinylux™ Alluring Finishes. Now available as three specialeffect, long-wear top coats in Matte, Glitter, and Pearl to enhance any CND™ Vinylux™ colour. A perfect match with CND™ Shellac™ Alluring Trilogy top coats, for long-lasting hues. creativenails.co.nz
WINNING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Seasonal Faves Introducing your new autumn favourites from Sothys:
Results-Driven Formulations that Deliver a Visible Difference Juvenate has looked for the newest award-winning, tested, results-driven ingredients available and combined them into a small, super-active range that will keep your clients coming back for more.
• The Echappée Parisienne Makeup Collection features a glamorously toned selection of elegant makeup essentials, including an eye pencil, earthy toned eyeshadow pencil, supple eyeliner, rosewood and plum lipsticks, and a luminous nail shade for the final touch.
The newest and most exciting skincare range, already the No.1 brand of choice in some of NZ’s biggest & most progressive salons.
• You’ll find passionfruit featured in Sothys’ beautiful new seasonal facial, for radiant autumn skin. sothys.co.nz
UNIQUELY INTRICATE FORMULATIONS
Call now and sample this advanced salon-only range for yourself.
NEW Breakthrough Technologies Immediate & Long-term Results New Zealand Made
Sophisticated Cosmedical Actives
Strictly NO Questionable or Nasty Chemicals
Nature enhanced with Science
Optimised Delivery System
Vegan Cruelty free Sustainable
Indian Summer Aromatherapy Associates launch two essentials, perfect for an Indian summer. Hand-blended pure essential oils and powerful plumping actives in their Hydrosol Sheet Mask work to reveal a lifted, firm and beautifully smooth complexion in just 10 minutes. End the day with the Sleep & Restore Collection, which contains four steps for a peaceful night’s sleep, allowing you to wake up to an uplifted skin, body and mind. selfcare.co.nz
JUVENATE SKINCARE LTD
E: email@example.com | W: www.juvenate.co.nz P: 0800 JUVEN8 | NEW ZEALAND
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Salon Beauty Comfortel’s Quattro Beauty Bed, with electric height adjustment, can be tailored to suit any style of treatment. The solid steel frame ensures stability with the added bonus of a manual back adjustment, which can easily allow clients to sit up-right. A popular choice with beauty salons and day spas, it is ideal for massage and also features retractable wheels for easy movement. comfortel.co.nz
Nourish & Hydrate
Algologie Rivage Resurfacing Night Balm features AHA’s to gently remove dead skin cells and noticeably smooths and boosts cell renewal for a resurfacing effect. Its powerful Algo4 Complex protects, nourishes, stimulates and oxygenates, providing an anti-wrinkle and firming action that works through the night for glowing skin in the morning. worldbeaute.co.nz
Dermalogica has reformulated their Intensive Moisture Balance hydrator, which now features a state-of-the-art BioReplenish Complex. This formula rehydrates, restores and transforms dry skin, and is perfect for the ever-increasing population of individuals who are prone to dry skin. dermalogica.co.nz
Rosie Posie Add a spritz of radiance with MineTan’s Rose Illuminating Facial Tan Mist. Designed specifically to prolong your tan and help you build a gorgeous golden glow, this mist suits all skin tones and types for those wanting a face tanner that restores radiance and delivers a flawless finish every time. worldbeaute.co.nz
Juvenate Rejuvenate Créme smooths, improves skin firmness and hydration, and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. This anti-ageing treatment penetrates deeply to restore elasticity, radiance and luminosity. juvenate.co.nz
Firming Programme Yon-Ka release the ultimate twin treatment for younger-lookingw skin that is firmer and smoother. The Advanced Optimizer Serum is quickly absorbed and adds a lifting effect, whilst the Advanced Optimizer CrĂ¨me, acting in tandem, leaves you with redefined facial contours and a visible light effect. beautysense.co.nz
Launching in April 2019, The Essentialists announce their upcoming new book. With 20 essential self-renewal practices to take you from surviving to thriving, Restore will help you reconnect with yourself and revitalise your life. theessentialists.com.au
Autumn Radiance Introducing Medik8â€™s three new innovations. Daily Radiance Vitamin C ensures future skin ageing and sun-induced damage is kept at bay, whilst the next level Micellar Mousse literally melts away make-up, dirt and grime. Finally, r-Retinoate INTENSE By Medik8 dramatically restores the appearance of beautiful skin in just 4 weeks. houseofcamille.co.nz
EXCEPTION MARINE 10 MINS
EXCEPTION MARINE REDENSIFYING FACIAL
IMMEDIATE LIFTING EFFECT
Exclusive Energilift Technique Works to resculpt the facial contours, redensify the skin and help fill out wrinkles. Thalgo Exception Marine Ad for Headway Magazine.indd 1
Exclusive Agent for Thalgo New Zealand 09 362 0882 | firstname.lastname@example.org | www.infinisea.co.nz 13/02/2019 10:48:54 AM
what ’s trending Another season, another bout of beautiful trends to explore. This autumn is all about minimalism. From letting those freckles shine through, to restrained, yet eye-catching nail art. Take a step back and be inspired by these #BarefacedBeauty vibes
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AUTUMN STYLE ac
The walking embodiment of #BarefacedBeauty this season is our style and beauty crush, Rachel Weisz. Considered one of the most beautiful women on earth, both inside and out, we love Rachel’s natural style both off and on the red carpet.
We’re taking a step back from “the works” nail art. Take a look at this season’s latest, as we embrace subtle additions that will transform mani’s into a minimalistic masterpiece.
KNOCKOUT NUDES Fresh, natural makeup was a common theme during this year’s awards season and on the AW19 catwalk. Lovingly nicknamed ‘gymskin’, embracing your freckles and natural skin tone is a welcome trend. 118 headway.net.nz
Eye Contour OPHTHALMOGICALLY TESTED FOR SENSITIVE SKIN & CONTACT LENS WEARERS. PROTECTS THE EYE CONTOUR, REDUCES DARK CIRCLES, PUFFINESS AND FINE LINES.
Blue Mountain flower
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Game-Changers Three of the Headway team share their beauty loves for autumn
Thalgo Source Marine Sleeping Cream Night Time Recovery has been keeping me company each evening for the past two months. I love the silky, smooth gel texture which seems to melt into my skin and the fresh, subtle scent is divine. This new-generation product apparently releases more than 860000 billion molecules of hyaluronic acid on one application, which I didn’t actually know before I started using it. Everyone knows that hyaluronic acid packs a powerful moisture punch and can offer incredible anti-ageing benefits…and it’s true that the hydrating abilities of this night-time repair treatment appear to be secondto-none. My skin has been feeling (and looking) more rested, rejuvenated and best of all, plumper than its usual self. I can actually feel it working the minute I put it on (even though I know all the good stuff happens while I’m asleep). For me, this is a keeper!
There’s something about catching a flash of colour from your mani when you’re tapping away on the keyboard (current status), or waving hello to someone. That is why my nail polish collection is bordering on ridiculous. I could seriously create a rainbow, or several, with all my shades. That being said, my signature shade has got to be Narcissist by Kester Black. This gorgeous polish is a deep, wine-red and has the power to instantly make me feel like I can take on the world. I wear it for events, important meetings and it is often featured on my nails during my birthday month – yes, it’s a thing. The brush itself is a dream to apply with, and the formula is so thick, you’ll find you will only need one coat. Plus Kester Black shades are vegan, sustainable and completely cruelty-free - all welcome bonuses.
If you haven’t had the good fortune to smell CURIONOIR Diaphanous, I highly suggest you do. The look on my friends’ faces when I pulled out a petite, pocketsized 4ml bottle and told them the price of this scent was something else, but then again, this fragrance is something else! I had to convince them that this purchase would last me a long time… and I tell you what, it has. For me, Diaphanous is a little piece of magical alchemy. Expect hints of Mandarin, Sambac Jasmine, Saffron, Narcissus Absolute and Cayenne Pepper. This tiny bottle is like a unique work of art and really brings the olfactory experience to life. It’s perfect for travel and the scent is rich, luxurious and long-lasting on the skin. For those wanting to splash out, Diaphanous also comes in a 50ml size.
IMAGE: Karen Thompson
Autumn-Winter Collection 2019
LIMITED EDITION: Available March 12
Contact email@example.com for Clinic orders
PICTURES: JEAN-FRANÇOIS VERGANTI · MARIUSZ DZIERZAWSKI · ISAXAR · 07/18 SOTHYS PARIS, SIÈGE SOCIAL ET INSTITUT DE BEAUTÉ, 128 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT HONORÉ, F 75008 PARIS - SIREN 451 170 807 RCS PARIS · NON CONTRACTUAL PICTURES. RENATA IS WEARING: CRAYON YEUX NOIR UNIVERSEL – 10 NOIR ESSENTIEL, STYLO OMBRE À PAUPIÈRES – 20 TAUPE ÉTINCELANT, FEUTRE CALLIGRAPHIE YEUX – 10 NOIR ESSENTIEL, MASCARA ESSENTIEL, POUDRE SOURCILS – 10 TAUPE UNIVERSEL, ROUGE INTENSE SOTHYS – 236 BOIS DE ROSE VAUGIRARD, VERNIS SOTHYS – 312 PRUNE RÉPUBLIQUE.
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THE RESCUERS 3
MASK MAGIC Bring some oomph back to your skin with the healing properties within (4) Joyce Blok Linden Refining Mask. Also perfect as a pre-event pick-meup, for a natural glow. For a facial as you dream, try (5) Aromatherapy Associates AntiAgeing Overnight Repair Mask. The potent botanical extracts in this mask work whilst you enjoy your beauty 5 sleep.
After a generous helping of sunshine last season, smooth on (1) Thalgo Sun Repair Cream, which features a combo of Macro-Algae and Waterlily flower extract to help prevent dehydration. (2) P4O 3-In-1 Aftersun Solution is an ideal skin soother, and can be used post-shave/wax or even after cleansing – bonus! Finally, (3) Vitamin E 15% truly is a skin saviour in a bottle. Ideal as an-after treatment solution, antioxidants work to heal irritated skin, whilst removing redness.
All Stars Here are our picks of the best post-summer skincare saviours
RINSE AND REPEAT A fresh take is what your skin needs, both day and night. Sothys Cosmeceutique Desquacrem Forte is boosted by salicylic acid and micro-grains of rice to combine deep cleansing and exfoliation of the pores.  Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser gently removes excess surface oils and environmental debris without drying out your skin. 122 headway.net.nz
Switch up your moisturiser with (8) Ella Baché Crème Intex Intensive Recovery Cream. This multi-purpose cream comforts and relieves extremely dry skin to soothe and repair. Another serious quencher is (9) Yon-Ka HYDRA N¯1 CRÈME, which nourishes the complexion, as well as protecting skin against external factors, leaving you fresh-faced, and ready to brave the day.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied & shutterstock
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Delay the first signs of ageing with (13) La Prairie Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Serum. This perfectly balanced emulsion hydrates deeply, and also addresses fine lines and dullness. For a booster to help with hydration levels of tired or stressed skin, try (14) Ultraceuticals Ultra B2 Hydrating Serum, which is enriched with hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5.
BEACH TO BOARDROOM Ensure those brows are on point with  Jane Iredale GreatShape® 11 Eyebrow Kit, with pigmented brow powder and nourishing botanical brow wax. Next, perfect that pout with the longlasting, natural & vegan  Ahimsa Cosmetics Lipstick in Panda, your fave new autumn shade. And finally, add a dash of  M.A.C Mineralize Blush in Dainty to your cheeks to complete the look. This buildable, luminous blush is perfect for a last-minute glow.
HEY SLICK It’s all about the oils, especially when it comes to bringing nourishment back to skin.  St.Tropez Self Tan Luxe Facial Oil provides a natural-looking streak-free tan – no sun required! The harmonious benefits from rich nutrients and cold-pressed, organic avocado oil feature in  Osmosis Nourish Oil, which rebalances the dermal layer of the skin.
HAND IT TO YOU
From swimming pools, to beach days, and even roadies in the sun. Your hands have been through a lot! (17) ASPAR Sweet Orange & Shea Hand Cream intensely hydrates, with a non-greasy formula and mood-elevating scent. Add some nail polish to brighten up your day with (18) Smith & Cult in Tang Bang. Each shade name is as outrageous as the next, plus who doesn’t love a fresh mani?
Brighten those eyes with  La Mer The Eye Concentrate. This sumptuous eye treatment is designed to dissolve the appearance of lines and wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness. For a bit of sparkle, try  LaGaia Diamond Eye Triple Action Gel. This lightweight elixir firms and hydrates, removing all traces of a late night, or sun exposure.
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EFFORTLESS GLAMOUR #BarefacedBeauty seems to be an unstoppable trend. Sharleen Singh takes a look at how minimal effort can result in maximum impact for your clients 124 headway.net.nz
Brows made perfect with jane iredale brow solutions
Whatever your brow needs, jane iredale has the tools to make sure they are always immaculately groomed.
PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied & shutterstock
he time to embrace a minimal yet polished skin look (note: not the same as natural) is now. Very different to a “nomakeup” vibe, effortless glamour is all about rocking clean skin as a canvas and allowing a pop of colour as a showcase on either the eyes, cheeks or lips. A simple concept that is modest yet daring, especially as it means that an outrageous shade of lipstick, or metallic eye shadow is perfectly encouraged. This new trend wholeheartedly embraces touches of bold colour, which we’re personally thrilled about, and foil textures, which we’ve already seen a hint of on the SS19 catwalks. Some favourites we’ve seen during awards season are nude lips paired with a metallic eye; stained lips and a hint of blush; and minimal eyes with a bold lip. For your mani/pedi clients, nail art that is simple yet vibrant can be achieved, such as a dot of electric colour on a nude backdrop. But what does this mean for your clients? For spas and salons that offer makeup services, this is just a case of creating a simple look for clients to follow at home and providing a vibrant selection of nail polishes or lipsticks/glosses. Unless your clients have an hour or two to spare in the morning, it’s quite a huge undertaking to prime, conceal, bake, contour, crease cut (you get the point) every single day. As gorgeous as the outcome is, and as much as we appreciate the creativity, Insta-glam makeup simply isn’t feasible for everyday wear. Encourage clients to embrace the importance of skin health. In order for light coverage to work, your clients need to feel confident in their own skin, which is where you can help them. Create a programme aligned with the #BarefacedBeauty movement, which you can mention to your existing facial clients, or entice your body treatment clients with. Add an easyto-follow makeup tutorial at the end of the programme for a serious skin and confidence booster. Effortless glamour is just a light tint and beautiful coral shade of lippy away.
1. Jane Iredale Peaches & Cream Bronzer/Highlighter 2. Eye Of Horus Velvet Lips in Seductress 3. M.A.C. Hyper Real Foundation in Bronze 4. Revitalash Volumizing Primer 5. Thalgo Hyaluronic Eye Patch Mask
jane iredale GreatShape® Eyebrow Kit A take-anywhere brow kit that includes a dual-ended applicator, transparent botanical brow wax and a pigmented brow powder. Water-resistant powder provides a softer, more natural appearance. Rich wax formulation leaves brows looking lustrous without any sticky residue. Adds colour, depth and highlights. Covers grey in brows. Available in Blonde and Brunette and NEW Ash Blonde.
jane iredale Retractable Brow Pencil The jane iredale Retractable Brow Pencil expertly ﬁlls and deﬁnes your brows with an ultra-ﬁne retractable precision tip and spoolie that puts natural looking, long-wearing, waterproof shades exactly where you want them. Available in ﬁve naturallooking, medium coverage shades; Ash Blonde, Medium Brunette, Blonde, Brunette and Dark Brunette.
jane iredale Brow Gel Formulated with a proprietary blend of sea minerals to condition and protect brow hairs, making them healthier, smoother and more manageable. Tints brow hairs in a natural way. Clear gel can be used to hold unruly brows in place, as a clear mascara for dyed or dark lashes and over colour mascara to help waterproof it. Covers grey eyebrow hairs. Adds colour, depth and highlights. Can be used as a light mascara. Available in Auburn, Blonde, Brunette and Clear.
Find a stockist at www.psb.net.nz janeiredale.nz @janeiredalenz
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SKIN HEALING After anti-ageing, the skin healing category has seen the biggest growth in skincare in 2018. Sharleen Singh explores this growing need
THE CAUSE Redness and scarring can stem from a variety of causes, which is why a consultation is so important, and something every spa should one hundred percent offer as an option on its own. Could it have been caused by too much time in the sun, or some other trauma? Has there been an increase in coffee intake? Perhaps there is a history of rosacea or eczema in your client’s family rather than an external reason. As beauty experts, it’s important to take note of your client’s history in order to find the root cause.
With Google searches of skin redness solutions on the rise, there could be many reasons why skin healing is now more popular than ever. Although already readily available in France, and an existing K-Beauty staple, this increase can also be linked to advanced treatments and products that stimulate skin. Especially with procedures such as micro-needling and laser skin resurfacing on the rise globally. As we near the cooler months, an increase in retinol and chemical peels is also a common cause of redness and something spa owners must be able to address directly after treatments; either as something they apply, or offer as a takehome solution.
Luckily, there are a multitude of skin healers that can help with this concern. Ingredients such as vitamin C are ideal to combat sun damage, and should be already recommended to clients all year round. Shea butter is perfect for dry, eczema-prone skin, whereas ceramides and beta-glucan are fantastic for restoring and healing the skin barrier. We then have the kingpin of the beauty industry, hyaluronic acid, which is ideal for all-round repair, as well as a variety of other healing ingredients. Meanwhile in-spa, there are plenty of treatments that help with scarring and redness. Light therapy, soothing facials and mind, body and soul healing retreats are all on the rise. There should be at least one type of healing method on your treatment menu - whether it is light therapy, a complete nutritional treatment and product programme, or a holistic facial. As technology grows, so will the need to heal the skin, so it’s best to be prepared for this influx of new and existing clients.
1. Thalgo SOS Soothing Mask 2. Sothys Repair Balm 3. Juvenate Relief Crème 4. CosMedix Rescue + 5. Environ Focus Care Colustrum Gel 5. Joyce Blok Vitamin E 15%
kin soothers are becoming more popular than ever in the beauty industry. From redness caused by environmental damage, to scarring and even irritations, it’s important to understand this concern and be prepared for your client’s needs.
THE PHYTO-AROMATIC ALTERNATIVE TO INVASIVE AESTHETIC PROCEDURES
PARTNER WITH YON-KA AND EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE 0800 555 630
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GLASS SKIN Sharleen Singh explores the illuminating benefits of tinted moisturisers
great tinted moisturiser should be a staple in everyone’s skincare arsenal, no matter the skin type or concern. Complexions need a break from fullcoverage foundation once in a while, especially for those with problem skin, where layering is not always a feasible option. Luckily, luminous skin is always in, whether it be a base for glam eyes, or an all-over natural autumn dew. Here are our top five reasons why you should be adding a tinted moisturiser to your in-spa/salon line-up.
1. TRAVEL SAVVY For your travelling clients, taking a bunch of different products with them on any journey, no matter how long or short, can be a major drag. A tinted moisturiser offers a moisturiser, foundation and in some cases, SPF, all in one product. A definite space-maker for that outfit sitting in the “maybe” pile.
2. SALON FAVE Tinted moisturisers are ideal to apply on clients after a peel, especially for those who are looking for instant gratification after a redness-inducing treatment. It’s also a perfect homecare option posttreatment, especially after seeing how amazing it looks on the skin in person.
3. VITAMIN HIT Depending on the brand, many tinted products are also packed to the brim with vitamins such as C and E, as well as SPF. These added benefits provide a lot of nutrients for the skin, working hard to both look good and actually benefit skin at the same time.
4. PERFECT FIT Fenty Beauty Foundation created a huge splash in the industry, after launching with 40 shades. A hugely important feat, especially with very few companies doing the same. For clients looking for their perfect shade outside of full-coverage foundations, a universal tint can be a god-send. These work to match most skin tones, blending in and highlighting the skin, rather than covering it with solid colour like a traditional foundation.
5. TIME-SAVER For clients that are always on the go (usually the majority!), they are forever on the search for products that are quick to apply, yet effective. With at least three products in one, there’s no waiting around for moisturiser to dry before applying foundation - it’s all on in one simple swipe. Add a spritz of mist in the afternoon as a boost and away you go!
1. Sothys Instant Energy Corrector 2. Jane Iredale Liquid Minerals Foundation 3. Medik8 Lipid Balance Cleansing Oil 4. Yon-Ka Hydra N1 Fluide 5. Thalgo Source Marine BB Cream
PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied & shutterstock
BEAUT Y profile
The Facialist The inspirational Ashleigh Scott, founder and owner of The Facialist, Tribeca Skin Tonics and industry mentor shares her journey so far.
I was living in London and working in the industry there for a couple of years. When moving home, I decided I couldn’t go back to doing what I had done before going away. I started by just renting a small space and creating a job for myself. From there, I have slowly built it up, leasing a larger premises and hiring and training staff. It’s been a very organic process.
Looking back, would you have done anything differently? I would have gone harder and faster at the beginning. You make mistakes and learn from them so I wouldn’t change any of those, as each experience has shaped my business today. But I’m now better at listening to my gut and making quick decisions. I believe in moving fast and always trusting my intuition.
Why did you start offering Facialist Masterclasses? A couple of years into starting out, I was getting a lot of messages and emails from other salon owners, beauty therapists, or people wanting to get 130 headway.net.nz
into the industry, looking for advice on where to study or learn what we did. I found people were still performing the same facial they had learnt years ago, and I wanted to offer something different to help inspire our industry.
Tell us about creating your own range, Tribeca Skin Tonics. I was mixing oils for my facials and giving them to clients to take home. I love branding and marketing, so I decided to come up with a name and put a label on it. It has been a great experience learning how to run a skincare company, as it’s totally different to a salon. I wanted Tribeca to fit alongside other ranges and slot into people’s regimes, filling a few gaps. The Facialist offers a strong emphasis on a holistic experience.
What keeps you healthy and well? For me, convenience is key. I start every morning with a green smoothie and pack as many superfood powders, fruit and vegetables in there as I can. At least then if everything goes pear-shaped and I run out of time for lunch or sneak in a chocolate bar, I know I’ve had that and it keeps me going! Meditation and Pilates
help keep me mentally focused and in control.
What inspires you? Fashion, food and other industries inspire me greatly. I get so much more inspiration from visiting an amazing restaurant or looking at new fashion trends than anything else!
What is your daily hair & skin routine? I like to keep things simple but in saying that, I love products! In the morning I soak my skin with water, apply a hydrating serum and moisturiser. Evenings I will double cleanse and apply a serum and oil. I love masks and will use one at least 1-2 times a week.
What’s next for your businesses? We have just celebrated five years in business, which feels like such a massive milestone to reach! We have so much planned and this year is very much a ‘growth’ year for me. I’m currently developing a couple of new products and working on a few other big projects which hopefully we’ll be able to reveal more of soon!
Tell us about deciding to open The Facialist.
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PORE ME Say goodbye to clogged, congested pores and rough skin with our experts' top picks for the season 2 3
1. Aromatherapy Associates Mattifying Refining Face Oil helps bring skin’s own oils into balance, with Ylang Ylang and soothing Jojoba. 2. For superior clinical AHA strength, try Aspect Dr™ Exfoliator, which works to reduce pores and imperfections in record time.
3. Environ Clarity+ Hydroxy Acid Sebu-Clear Masque contains a combination of exfoliating acids to assist in skin renewal and rejuvenation.
4. Gentle exfoliation and thoroughly cleansed skin awaits with Joyce Blok’s Alpha-Beta Radiance Cleanser, a key step in their AlphaBeta Radiance range. 5. The dual-action Juvenate Alpha Resurfacer Exfoliant uses natural enzymes for superficial dermal peeling to reactivate the skin’s natural cycle of cellular renewal.
6. Utilising purifying powder actives, Medik8 Activated Charcoal Refining Mask™ empowers skin with pore-refining strength to clarify and enhance radiance. 7. Sothys Cosmeceutique Deep Cleanser removes dead cells, purifies pores and promotes skin radiance by utilising the power of salicylic acid and micro-grains of rice.
8. In just 15-20 minutes Thalgo Micronized Marine Algae purifies, re-mineralises and regenerates congested skin, with the detoxifying powers of natural Marine Algae. 9. Yon-Ka Gommage utilises the purifying and clarifying essential oil of lime and soothing white nettle to smooth, brighten, hydrate and balance skin. headway.net.nz 131
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The Inventor We speak to lipstick designer, Karen Murrell, on her inspirations and the success of her cruelty-free range @karenmurrellofficial
When I looked at the category eleven years ago, there were no natural lipsticks, so it became my aim to create a lipstick that was natural but had the look, touch and feel of a big brand lipstick. We have done just that so I am really happy.
Tell us about the importance of being a natural, ethical brand. A lot of this has to do with being a New Zealander. My childhood was very typical, where Dad grew a lot of our food from the garden and my Mum was a yoga-practicing hairdresser. I think these values have been passed on to me and the Karen Murrell brand, where I intrinsically believed natural lipsticks were the only way.
What is your best tip for healthy lips and having your lippy stay on longer? I am a big believer in using a small amount of cleanser on a wash cloth morning and night and simply 132 headway.net.nz
rubbing gently onto your lips to exfoliate off any dry and dead skin. Then before bed, I always apply 01 Moisture stick generously. Easy!
What would you say was the defining moment for your brand? We have had many but in the last three years, the arrival of our own branded Karen Murrell lipstick bullet machines was pretty monumental! This has been hugely satisfying for me, elevating the brand aesthetically to an even greater level.
What would be the perfect autumn shade? 14 Orchid Bloom, 09 Sand Storm and 05 Violet Mousse are all my top picks for this season. I think we may see a paring back of brash, bold colour, and a leaning towards what suits you more as an individual rather than what colour is trending.
What is your everyday beauty routine? After 45 years, I am hoping this is the
year I master it. I use Ultraceuticals morning and night and I have found this range gives me the best results. My favourite product that Iâ€™m really impressed with is a Ultra A (Mild) Serum. I do go to the lovely Chloe at Haven Skin Spa in Aucklandâ€™s Takapuna for dermabrasion and a glycolic peel once a month too. I must confess I do like this treatment and it has made a huge difference to my skin, especially with all my flying.
What is the inspiration behind each shade? Thank you for asking this question! Every shade has a story and I love telling them. We do not have enough space for 25 stories but number 13 is named Camellia Morning and came about when my best friend, my husband and I were walking down the beach in Devonport. It was the middle of winter, a grey dreary day, and all of a sudden I saw the most magnificent shade of Camellia flower and a brand new shade was born, Camellia Morning.
What inspired you to start creating lipstick?
OCEAN FRIENDLY SUN SYSTEM Enjoy the benefits of broad spectrum UV protection without harmful chemicals. Our sun system is free of coral-damaging ingredients and is biodegradable in aquatic systems. One dollar per product donated to coral conservation. Learn more at www.people4ocean.com For details on becoming a stockist or for more information contact Self Care Group 0800 105 107 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
Made for People4Ocean by Lagaia Unedited
Skin Quencher Dr Catherine Stone explores a new concept in skin hydration, Juvederm VOLITE, just launched in Sydney
BEAUT Y appearance medicine
nterestingly, skin quality is more important to Australian women than body shape, and more than 1 in 3 women surveyed said they would try an injectable treatment that would smooth and hydrate the skin, while boosting elasticity, if it lasted for up to 9 months! Even nicer is that this new product is made from a substance that occurs naturally in our bodies – HA, or hyaluronic acid. HA is a large and complex molecule that has been gaining in popularity since people became aware of its ability to improve hydration. Its job in the skin is to retain moisture, facilitate cell communication, and provide thickness and bulk to the skin – and it’s largely responsible for a healthy ‘glow’. As we age, the reduced production of HA by our fibroblasts (skin cells) means our skin becomes thinner, drier and more fragile. Many cosmeceutical products promote their HA serums for skin hydration, but unfortunately the molecule is too big to penetrate into the skin without the assistance of a needle, so skin serums provide only superficial hydration – at best. While 13% of women surveyed thought that the only way to moisturise the skin was to apply a moisturiser, injectable skin quality treatments have already been used for quite a while. Restylane HA ‘Skin Boosters’ Vital and Vital Light are injectable treatments that have been used to successfully improve skin hydration and glow for almost 10 years. On the other hand, ‘Cellular Matrix’ PRP is a regenerative treatment that uses a more natural, unstabilised form of HA along with platelet-rich plasma (the healing parts of your own blood). This provides improved hydration, skin thickness and glow, working beautifully on the dehydrated
or ageing skin of the face, neck, hands and décolletage. All these treatments require a course of three treatments spaced monthly, then repeat treatments every 6-12 months to maintain the results. The highly-anticipated injectable hydrofiller, Juvederm VOLITE, uses a patented formulation of HA, which provides improved skin quality for up to 9 months with a single treatment. Juvederm VOLITE is part of Juvederm’s VYCROSS range, which has been formulated to last longer in the
The treatment takes about 45-60 minutes depending on the area treated and the amount used. The product is formulated to contain lidocaine, a numbing agent, meaning that the procedure is usually well tolerated. As with any injectable treatment, there is a possibility of bruising, so it is best to stop any blood thinning supplements or medications (such as fish oils, anti-inflammatory medications like aspirin or voltaren, ginkgo biloba, turmeric, ginger, garlic and high doses of green tea) at least two weeks prior to your treatment. We recommend having
“Hyaluronic Acid is a large and complex molecule that has been gaining in popularity since people became aware of its ability to improve hydration” skin than other HA filler products. Volite has been available in South Africa and the UK for over two years, so I have many friends who are very familiar with it, including Dr Jenni Irvine, who joined our team from South Africa last year. Dr Jenni has used it off-label for conditioning and hydrating the lips and fine lines around the mouth and eyes, as well as on-label for skin conditioning of the face, neck, décolletage and hands. As an Allergan Trainer, I’ve been fortunate to have access to the product prior to the Australian launch, and have been really impressed. The models we have treated so far describe the skin as ‘plumper’ and ‘smoother’, and the overall look as ‘very natural’. As this is a skin conditioning treatment, it is not designed to provide volume like an HA filler does. After numbing cream is applied, tiny amounts of Juvederm VOLITE are injected superficially in the skin at about 1cm intervals in the area to be treated.
your treatment at least two weeks (ideally a month) before any major events such as a wedding, big birthday or photo shoot! Results often start to become visible about 10-14 days after treatment, and are usually at their best about a month after treatment. Research shows that 96% of patients treated had improved skin quality at one month, with 91% saying they were now happy with their skin. As always, it’s best to consult with an experienced clinician to determine whether the treatment might be right for you, before proceeding with treatment. You will be advised to delay or avoid treatment if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, have allergies to HA or to Lidocaine, or if you have any form of inflammation of the skin in the area to be treated. We’re excited to see Volite (finally) launched in NZ, and thrilled to be adding another versatile tool to our skin rejuvenation ‘toolbox’! headway.net.nz 135
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YEAR OF THE BODY Anne Oâ€™Brien reveals the latest statistics on cosmetic procedures and an edit on what spiked and what dropped in 2018
ast year, when we launched the cosmetic surgery feature in our beauty section, we had a great response from our readers. They all agreed that the continued rise of surgical procedures in New Zealand meant that as appearance profressionals, it was important to stay informed of what was happening, in regards to both non-invasive and cosmetic surgical procedures. We publish data from the United States but local opinion and
media interviews see a correlation with the US market. Read on to see whatâ€™s predicted for 2019 based on previous years results.
THE FACTS New data from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) shows a marked increase in cosmetic procedures performed in 2018 than the previous year - nearly a quarter million more. According to the annual plastic
surgery statistics report, there were more than 17.7 million surgical and minimallyinvasive cosmetic procedures performed in the US in 2018, a number than has risen steadily over the past five years. Statistics also reveal an upturn in body shaping procedures, with a spike in noninvasive fat reduction, as well as breast augmentations and liposuction. Of the 1.8 million cosmetic surgical procedures performed in 2018, the top 5 were:
Among the 15.9 million cosmetic minimally-invasive procedures performed in the US in 2018, botulinum toxin type A is still number 1 and up 3% from 2017 136 headway.net.nz
INTENSIVE TRAINING REVEALS HIGHEST PROFITABILITY
1 2 3 4 5
Breast augmentation – 313,735 procedures up 4% from 2017 Liposuction – 258,558 procedures up 5% from 2017 Nose reshaping – 213,780 procedures down 2% from 2017 Eyelid surgery – 206,529 down 1% from 2017 Tummy tuck – 130,081 about the same as 2017 As you can see, three of the top five procedures focus on the body and in 2018, there was an increase across all three. There were also reports of surges in body-sculpting procedures, like buttock augmentations and thigh lifts. “Liposuction continues to be the gold standard in body contouring because of its versatility, efficiency and effectiveness,” said ASPS President Alan Matarasso, MD. “With liposuction, one treatment may be all you need to reshape problem areas. A plastic surgeon can treat more areas - and larger areas - in one procedure. Liposuction also provides a more consistent and predictable result than non-invasive treatments, but new non-surgical fat reduction machinery continues to evolve and play a role in reshaping areas of the body.”
THE COMEBACK Tummy tucks, which dropped from the top five in 2016, returned to the top 5 in 2017 and remain there. “An improved abdominal contour is something that many of us strive for, but for some patients, that may not be attainable through diet and exercise alone,” said ASPS 2017 President Jeffrey E. Janis, MD. “Age, pregnancy and significant weight changes can impact both the skin and underlying muscle. Tummy tucks performed by a boardcertified plastic surgeon remove excess fat and skin and, in most cases, restore weakened or separated muscles to create an improved abdominal profile.” Choosing to change the shape of different parts of the body using ultrasound, radio frequency, vacuum massage, infrared light and injectable medication to reduce fat cells grows in
popularity each year. With an ageing population and such high incidences of obesity, the increase in these types of procedures is not surprising. Unwanted fat is something that effects a lot of people and plastic surgeons are able to give clients more options than ever before. These options can act as maintenance steps, while clients decide whether something more invasive down the line is right for them.
KEEPING IT REAL An article published in December 2018 by the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (The Aesthetic Society/ ASAPS), noted trends toward refined, subtle results versus the sculpted glam or ‘overdone’ look. This trend creates a renewed interest in smaller breast implants (or even explantation) and non-implant-based breast augmentation. ASAPS data reflects emerging trends with fat transfer to the breast increasing (up 41.4%) and fat transfer to the face (up 16.7%). “Next year also promises a surge of significant technological advancements for aesthetic procedures geared at skin resurfacing, body contouring, skin tightening and more,” says W. Grant Stevens, MD, FACS, President of the Aesthetic Society. “Our predictions provide foresight into new developments that fulfil the consumer’s desire for minimally invasive solutions, as well as modern techniques for the surgical gold standards, minimising downtime, improving outcomes and reaching a broader audience.”
THE VERDICT • Patients will be more open to surgical procedures that will achieve long-term or sometimes permanent results. • Less time in clinic for top-up procedures. A move from the request for celebrity features to more patients that want to look like the best version of themselves is what 2019 is about. • The future looks a bit more real and definitely following the upward trend.
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13TH & 14TH JULY 2019 at ASB SHOWGROUNDS, AUCKLAND
what ’s trending in k l e ew
@ b a d di
This issue we fell into a bright and colourful world of inspiration in the form of our wellness Insta-faves. It’s so important to nurture and inspire our hearts, minds and bodies. Positivity is in, so this autumn we aim to inspire with our wellness trends for the season
Influencers A little cheeky and a lot fabulous is Helen Ruth Elam Van Winkle. At 90 years old, she is exactly the kind of grandparent we all aspire to be one day. With a passion for slow fashion, Kathleen Elie strictly features ethical and sustainable brands - check out her gorgeous finds.
Plant Love @ cl eo wa
It’s not surprising to hear that the hottest new wellness startups at the moment are house plants, as they give you the same nurturing feeling as having pets. Check out some of our favourite indoor jungle feeds; they’ll turn you green with plant-envy.
Mind & Body
Daily Inspo Making life brighter one post at a time, creator of The Happy News, Emily Coxhead, is all about positive, empowering vibes and loads of colour. We are also super-inspired by writer Cleo Wade, aka the ‘millennial Oprah’, who is busy leading a self-love revolution on Insta.
We’re loving the message behind Jameela Jamil’s powerful @i_weigh movement, which celebrates how amazing women and men are beyond the flesh on their bones. We also have to make a nod to Headway fave Sam Smith, who recently made a pledge to reclaim his body, after years of body trauma.
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HeadwayBeaut | PROMOTION y focus
Hidden Gems There are more hidden gems in the beauty industry nowadays than ever before. Sharleen Singh discovers why
hether you scatter them around your home, wear them on your fingers, or carry them with you, precious gems are a huge part of the beauty and wellness industry. Even if you are a sceptic on healing powers, there are definitely physical advantages of stocking skincare with gems, such as crystals or diamonds, which can be ground down and used as exfoliators (albeit an expensive one!). There are a growing number of skincare ranges that include some form of precious gem in their ranges, so it can be hard to know what gem does what. “Quartz crystals are high in minerals”, says Kristen Laing-Herbert, General Manager & Creative Director of LaGaia, which utilises precious elements in their products. She explains that it is the 'wild card' of the crystal kingdom, as it adds energy to everything and anything, saying, “It's a crystal of clarity and focus”. Rose Quartz specifically physicalizes love energy, as it “boosts feelings of self-love, and self-worth and has a warm, embracing, nurturing energy," says Laing-Herbert. She explains that it helps us to slow down and appreciate more of the beauty and wonder that is around us. Pearl, on the other hand, is a beautifying cell builder, which according to Laing-Herbert, is basically a magic
powder which releases essential trace minerals into the blood stream. This is for longevity, joy, and a serious glow, as well as bone and cell building. Another crystal making its mark is Lapis Lazuli. “It is the stone of speaking your truth. It unblocks the energy preventing you from being true to yourself," says Laing-Herbert. With an increasing interest in these crystal-based products, there has also been a growth of spas and salons that have incorporated crystal-infused products or actual crystals into their services as an add-on feature. As well as wholeheartedly embracing the wellbeing movement, the use of crystals also adds a feeling of luxe to any treatment. After all, who wouldn’t want to be surrounded by crystals? From gold and diamond infusedfacials, to jade rollers, which have been a popular addition to facials and recommended for at-home use. It’s a simple case of researching gems and seeing what would work best for your current spa menu. Whether you’re all about it or not, the wellness industry (set to become the next trillion dollar market globally) has truly welcomed crystals, so it’s time to embrace this treasure trove of precious gems.
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WELLNESS X MICROBIOME Micro-what? Sharleen Singh explains the ins and outs of this industry buzzword
he keyword “microbiome” is popping up more and more in the beauty industry, especially when it comes to wellness - but what does it mean? Microbiome, put simply, is the microorganisms in a particular environment that work towards maintaining a naturally-balanced ecosystem. In this particular case, the gut and skin.
Into The Gut It is widely accepted that healthy skin goes hand-in-hand with what you eat. It isn’t uncommon to prescribe spa clients with supplements such as EPO’s or flaxseed oil to enhance their treatment plan, and suggest adjustments to their diet. There has been many a study done on gut health and research over the past two decades has found that gut health is critical to overall health. An unhealthy gut can contribute to a wide range of issues, including anxiety and eczema. Ben Warren, founder of BePure, recently went on a series of talks around the country addressing the importance of this very topic. According to Warren, “the number and diversity of the bacteria living inside your gut impacts your overall health and wellness”. We are dependent on these microorganisms, both good and bad, to help digest our food, produce particular vitamins and regulate our immune system. The interest in gut health also sparked 140 headway.net.nz
the popularity of Kombucha (love it or hate it), kimchi and even sauerkraut. Warren encourages “increasing your intake of fermented foods to help support your gut, specifically the promotion of diverse beneficial gut bacteria.” There are several ways to incorporate the world of microbiome into your spa or salon. A nutrient-packed supplement or specialised smoothie powder for your clients will do wonders and introduce them to the benefits for their skin.
On The Surface With advancements in DNA and genetic testing expanding to skincare, it’s no surprise that studies into “feeding” the organisms on your skin are taking place. In the 2016 article “Anti-Aging Effects of Probiotics” published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, it reveals how probiotics can restore acidic skin pH, alleviate oxidative stress, reduce photo-ageing, improve skin barrier function, and improve hair quality. Trends are leaning towards advanced probiotic skincare in the future that protects from pollution, which, thanks to climate change, has been found to be one of the main aggressors of organisms on the skin. These actives will be able to rebalance the skin’s immune system and therefore boost the natural defence barrier. In the not so distant future, we will literally be able to feed our skin. This buzzword is definitely one we haven’t heard the last of, both as an internal and external health essential.
LEADER IN SCIENTIFIC SKINCARE TECHNOLOGY The Australian-made LaGaia Unedited skin and body range offers people real, measurable results, from active, concentrated ingredients formulated with leading cosmetic scientists. Products are designed to bring your skin back to its optimal pH balance, hydrate and protect skin down to cellular level while boosting cell productivity to help skin act younger at its deepest layers. “LUE is a dramatic breakaway from traditional beauty treatments that prescribe different formulas for different skin types,” says founder Dr Jean Laing. “All skin types, ages and genders need a healthy pH balance to maintain health and youthfulness.” LUE takes a ‘less is more’ approach to give the skin what it needs most—less fragrance, less chemicals and more naturally occurring ingredients like sodium hyaluronate to provide continuous moisture, essential vitamins A, C and E, and minerals that boost cell function. Launched in New Zealand April 2018. For details on becoming a stockist or for more information contact Self Care Group on 0800 105 107 or email email@example.com
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“You can always recover from risks but the one thing you can’t get back is time”
STRIVING FOR CONFIDENCE Success coach, Annabelle Matson, shares her tips on moving ahead in life @annabellematson
Action Creates Clarity We can waste so much time spinning our wheels, weighing up the pros and cons of decisions or anxiously waiting until the time “feels right”. The truth is, it’s never going to feel totally “right” and there will always be a degree of risk when we move outside of our comfort zone and try something new. Of course, take any action you need to mitigate the risks and then after that, you just have to move forward even if it feels scary. Action creates clarity. As you step out, you’ll get feedback from your environment and you’ll come to realise you’re either totally on the right track, or something needs to shift. Either way, you’ve gained wisdom and clarity 142 headway.net.nz
that would never have showed up if you stayed at step one.
You Can Always Pivot I meet so many smart women through my work who are completely paralysed by indecision, afraid they will make the “wrong” decision and be doomed forever. Very few decisions in our lives involve life or death consequences. If, after taking action, something isn’t as you expected, you can always pivot. There are always more steps to take to bring you further into alignment with how you want your life to be.
The Time Will Pass Anyway I recently heard a quote that read, “you
can always recover from risks but the one thing you can’t get back is time.” I’m personally motivated every day by the fact that time always passes. You can get to the end of next week, next month, or next year and still be exactly where you want to be (or well on the way), or you can be in the same place. Why not use the time you have now to look fear in the eyes, take action and move forward anyway? Nothing is more painful than looking back on months that have passed and being filled with regret that you didn’t use the time to move yourself closer to your dreams. A risk is better than a regret, so step out and take action! annabellematson.com
FROM OUR SPA TO YOUR HOME
This collection of botanically active products have been developed in-spa with care and expertise by therapists at award-winning Aurora Spas around Australia. We encourage you to recreate your own spa ritual at home and relax and unwind with ASPAR. A great addition to hair, barber and beauty salons.
For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on the ASPAR range contact us on 0800 105 107 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
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FIRE UP YOUR CREATIVITY Lyndall Mitchell & Shannah Kennedy share an excerpt from their new book RESTORE
hen we allow creativity in, we find new ways to deal with obstacles and see roadblocks as opportunities rather than dead ends. By allowing ourselves to creatively view life from a different perspective or in a new way, we are able to then generate new possibilities or find alternatives to live a more exciting and energetic life. As you let creativity flow, you start to open up your heart and soul and treat life like a wonderful adventure. Firing up your creativity will take you from feeling exhausted to energised. Creativity is a skill and muscle that needs constant nurturing and exercise. When our tank feels depleted, firing up our creativity and opening the door to finding solutions can be exciting, rewarding and fully energising. It is that ability to generate or recognize
ideas, alternatives, or possibilities that may be useful in solving problems, communicating with others, and entertaining ourselves and others. A happy and fun-filled life requires creative thinking. Creativity fires up your courage as you allow yourself to try new things, become a little vulnerable, be brave and possibly fail. Creativity will allow you to reconnect with what fires your soul, to create your dreams and visualise life in a lighter and more exciting light. It is finding joy in what you already do by tweaking your thoughts, routines and habits to fuel your internal fire. It is what will allow your life to become fun, energising and exciting each day. It is one of the most powerful life skills we can nurture, nourish, develop and harness. It will open the door to you allowing
yourself to find new and better ways to communicate with people, develop habits that serve you better and find more passion in life, and the result is a restoring of your depleted and stuck energy. We are all creative individuals. We all have access to this incredible soulnourishing part of us that often gets shut down as we face overload, overwhelm, anxiety and stress. The great news is that we can fire it up at any time with a little effort and creating a little space. Once we get it going, the rewards are amazing as we feel back in control, calm, confident and reconnected with our true selves. By not just thinking but actually following through to make change, we ignite our imagination which starts to fuel our creative way of looking at life.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock and Instagram
ghts, routin r thou es an u o y d hab ive! e l a n i y t s to keep your creativit -tu e n Fi
5 THOUGHT STARTERS 1. Cut out pictures to create a vision board for yourself and what you want to create in life. 2. Boost your mood – move your body, get some air to shift your brain state and kick-start your system. 3. Go on an inspiration trawl – TED talks, audio, podcasts, new topics to explore. 4. Constantly doodle – without judgement, just let your pencil keep moving. 5. Listen to a different genre of music – be open to liking new sounds.
someone and empower yourself to use creativity to grow and flow. Capturing those moments, those experiences, those activities that take you closer to the flow state, will allow you to truly flourish in life. Creativity is quite simply making fresh connections, showing up in life
each day with a mind-set to see things in new ways, try new things and be open to new perspectives. Lyndall Mitchell & Shannah Kennedy are founders of The Essentialists and coauthors of Restore, available April 2019. theessentialists.com.au
“There is no doubt that creativity is the most important human resource of all. Without creativity, there would be no progress, and we would be forever repeating the same patterns” — Edward de Bono
Change up the following each season to nurture yourself and keep your creativity alive: • Overhaul pantry and fridge first week of each season. • Fine tune your diet to eat seasonally. • Change up your exercise routine to work with the weather. • Declutter and reset your wardrobe, bedroom and home environments. • Book in some new activities for the 12-week cycle. • Rewrite your affirmations to keep you motivated. • Swap the colour pen you use in your journal. • Discover and program new meditations and intentions per season. • Revamp your office and desk space. • Organise friend catch-ups for the quarter that suit you for the season. • Recreate your media habits every quarter. • Choose new topics to learn and read about each quarter to enhance your skills. Put a reminder in the calendar on the first day of each season to go through your quick overhaul list and create your seasonally-flavoured goals and tick list. Take note of how you feel when you ask yourself daily if you can do something better, make something more fun, or build a deeper connection to headway.net.nz 145
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Ever felt like a particular food doesn’t quite agree with you, but not to the point of intolerance? Jenny Ringland explains why
earning about your blood type and the foods that most suit your system could provide a healthy eating light-bulb moment. Eating for blood type is based on the principal that when we eat, a chemical reaction occurs between the food and our blood. Knowing which foods suit and react to your blood type is a great tool to have in your health and wellbeing arsenal.
FOODS TO EAT • Vegetables & vegetable oils: Aids efficient digestion & prevents fluid retention. • Fish and seafood: Aids efficient metabolism. • Pineapple: Increases intestinal mobility & increases calorie utilisation.
FOODS TO AVOID • Red meat: Poorly digested and stored as fat (chicken & turkey are neutral). • Dairy products: Provokes an insulin reaction. • Kidney & lima beans: Provokes an insulin reaction & slow metabolic weight. • Wheat: Makes muscle tissue acidic and impairs calorie utilisation.
B Those with a strong immune system and tolerant digestive system can eat most foods.
FOODS TO EAT • Green vegetables: Increases metabolism. • Lean organic red meat, fish & seafood: Increases metabolism. • Eggs: Increases metabolism. • Liquorice tea: Levels out sugar levels.
FOODS TO AVOID • Sweet corn: Slows metabolism. • Peanuts: Slows metabolism. • Sesame seeds: Slows metabolism. • Buckwheat: Inhibits digestion & slows metabolism. • Wheat: Slows metabolism & increases food stored as fat.
Those most suited to animal proteins should avoid or limit dairy products and grains.
FOODS TO EAT
FOODS TO AVOID
• Seafood & kelp: Increased thyroid production due to the iodine. • Lean white meat & red meats: Aids efficient metabolism. • Spinach, broccoli & kale: Aids efficient metabolism.
• Wheat & gluten: Slows metabolism by interfering with insulin production. • Sweet corn: Same effect as gluten. • Kidney, navy beans & lentils: Impairs calorie utilisation. • Cabbage, brussel sprouts & cauliflower: Impairs calorie utilisation.
WHY YOU SHOULD EAT FOR YOUR BLOOD TYPE
Those most suited to a vegetarian diet and lots of fresh fruit and vegetables.
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Nature Of Wellbeing
Sharleen Singh shares her experience at Rachel Hunter’s latest meditation tour around New Zealand
rmed with curiosity and my trusty cushion, I made my way to Takapuna to join Rachel Hunter on one of her five North Island Nature of Wellbeing workshops. Meditation is something that I have attempted in the past, but not something that I have been successful at, having been blessed (or cursed) with a daydreamer's mind. After finding a spot to sit in a sea of people, and after a fleeting moment of cushion envy (I knew I should’ve brought a bigger one!) I found a moment to take in the room. There was a buzz in the air from people who had previously been to Rachel’s workshops, and from newbies like me. To excited applause, Rachel stepped onto the stage. Warm and humble, Rachel began
chatting about why she started practising yoga and meditation, stemming from the passing of her beloved mother Janeen Phillips, and her subsequent trip to India to explore her spirituality. It really was an inclusive, casual chat; it felt as though we were all sitting together in her living room. This was the magic of Rachel’s charm - no question was too silly, random, or personal. Rachel shared with us her personal wellness tools, including special breathing and techniques to deal with grief or stress. This collectively involved the room rapidly breathing throughout our nostrils, a little too enthusiastically I might add, as Rachel had to tell us to slow it down lest we pass out. She also spoke candidly about her experiences and her suggestions on practicing yoga at home, and how it can sometimes be, in her words, a bit weird! We were then shown how to meditate efficiently for ourselves, as there is no correct way for everyone. Some may prefer to lie down, with others sitting with the aid of a meditation cushion. With our hands facing upwards and eyes closed, we were told to allow thoughts to come through, however we didn’t need to entertain them. This was perfect for me; I was able to allow my random thought
bubbles (such as, I really should’ve brought a bigger cushion) float away. We were also inspired to get more involved with our bodies. It simply wouldn’t do to just sprinkle turmeric in our drinks once a day. We needed to get actively involved, take notice of our breath, and make some time to just be. We were encouraged to adapt a simple mantra during the day and enjoy more laughter in our lives. Rachel’s ending advice was to,w “take a page out of nature’s book, and bloom”. After a quick selfie session and chat, we were all left with minds clearer, bodies lighter and hearts full of wisdom and inspiration.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Faanati Mamea & supplied
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