Page 1

luxe issue

The

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / WINTER 2017 / VOL.40 NO.2


SYSTEM PROFE SSIONAL .COM

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THE ENERGY OF HAIR. REBORN. Inspired by luxury skincare, the new System Professional collection with EnergyCode™ Complex offers a truly innovative solution that will elevate your client’s in-salon experience and visibly transform their hair. If you are interested in stocking new System Professional, contact your Wella Sales Consultant, call 0800 800 128 or visit: www.systemprofessional.com EXCLUSIVELY IN SELECTED SALONS


TEXTURE FROM EVERY ANGLE A no-salt beach wave mousse, a clay for roughed-up glam and a spray for tousled, undone styles.

Discover more at Moroccanoil.com


ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y


New Zealand’s leading multibrand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&CO established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, ST Tropez, OPI, Eye of Horus, Lonvitalite, Foil Republic and Triumph & Disaster. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide. We strive to help you achieve your business goals.

CS COMPANY LTD trading as CS&Co. www.cs.co.nz

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beautiful environment


Be mindful. Be concious. Be sustainable. Be yourself. Just Be.

As the pace of modern life accelerates, as volatility and tensions build, as the chaos and uncertainty compounds, we lose ourselves. So slow down. Take a moment. Breathe. Be was consciously created to support New Zealand hairdressing professionals who care about beauty both inside and out. We are the new exclusive distributor of Davines in Aotearoa.

0800 be yourself be.co.nz

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PURITY AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF HAIR COLOUR. NOVACOLOR COMBINES THE BEST OF NATURE AND SCIENCE TO DELIVER TOTAL PROFESSIONAL COLOUR SOLUTIONS. Novacolor is the only professional colour range on the market today manufactured in Australia specifically for our climate. It provides a full spectrum of low ammonia based, permanent hair colour shades which contain an infusion of Australian native plant extracts and protein complexes to ensure truer, richer, longer-lasting colour, complete grey coverage and unmatched shine and condition. It’s calibrated Hybrid Fusion Technology allows longevity in colour and greater economy per tube.

We are proud to be certified as vegan friendly.


Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz


CONTENTS Hair 14

EDITOR'S LETTER

NZ AWARDS 24 HAIR EXCELLENCE: Celebrating the winners of INDUSTRY 2017 Hairdressing Awards

52 COMPETITIVE EDGE: Introducing the 15 Kiwi finalists for the Hair Expo Hairdressing Awards 2017

84 BUSINESS EXCELLENCE: How and why to

enter the Kitomba NZARH Business Awards

PROFILE 30 5 MINUTES WITH: Sebastian Professional Creative Director Brad Lepper

36 BLONDE AMBITION: Joico Guest Artist Nic Apaapa

44 5 MINUTES WITH: Beautiful Environment Managing Director Ryland Wood

76 COLOUR CUE: Talking colour with De Lorenzo Novacolor Ambassador Maz Azorakis

92 TURNING HEADS: Education inspiration with Premier Artistic Director Nicci Higgs

FOCUS 58 HAIR REBORN: System Professional reveals

68 Winter Essentials

their groundbreaking new innovation innovation

66 HAIRCARE HITS UP QUEENSTOWN:

Sharleen Singh shares her experience at Haircare’s Business Summit

71

L’ATELIER BLANC: This chic Parisian salon is making a name for itself

74 COOL GIRL HAIR: What is it and the products to make it happen

98 AIMING HIGH: Richard Kavanagh fills us in on the Rodney Wayne Bootcamp

Beauty 110 BEAUTY NEWS

Saxo

34 CONTOURAGE: The newest trend in colouring

pa nS

105

FEATURE 103 SAXON SPA: A lxuury oasis of serenity and wellbeing

118

UNIQUELY LUXE: The newest treatments and trends emerging globally

122 ANTI-AGEING INNOVATIONS: High-end

ationa

l

Intern

products and supplements

87

126 DREAM TEAM: Beauty apprenticeships are on the rise, thanks to HITO

APPEARANCE MEDICINE 116 TIMELESS BEAUTY: Dr Catherine Stone

reveals the latest trends paving the way to a brighter skin future

BUSINESS 124 IS IT REALLY WORTH IT?: Kim Ryan

introduces the concept of skincare ‘banking’ for your business

130 MID-YEAR CHECK UP: Banish the winter blues from your salon business

10 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

124 Is it really worth it?


PROTECT YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR WHILE COLOURING INNOVATION

THE MUST-HAVE ADDITIVE FOR YOUR COLOUR SERVICES. FOR SOFTER, STRONGER, SHINIER HAIR.

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HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / WINTER 2017 / VOL.40 NO.2

®

CONTENT EDITOR Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz CREATIVE Art Director Olivia Wimsett olivia@owndesign.co.nz Senior Designer Vanessa Naran vanessa@selfcaregroup.co.nz Digital Co-ordinator Sharleen Singh sharleen@selfcaregroup.co.nz PRINTING Print Management – Graeme Brazier Ltd gb@gbltd.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Anne O’Brien, Catherine Stone, Charmaine Guest Kim Ryan, Liz Lamb, Lyndall Mitchell, Shannah Kennedy, Sharleen Singh, Richard Kavanagh, ADVERTISING CONTACT charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz EDITORAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. COVER Poppy Delevingne for System Professional INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage)

HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND

fatboy 66 APOLLO DRIVE, ALBANY, AUCKLAND

published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2017 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.


LIVE THE BLONDE LIFE ™

NEW Lightening & Brightening System Proven to keep blondes bright and on-tone for up to 8 weeks* 9 out of 10 stylists agree, after one use, blondes are: • BRIGHTER • SOFTER • SHINIER • MORE HYDRATED

Lightening Powder: • Provides up to 9+ levels of fast-acting lift • The quickest** way to brighten & lighten hair!

COMING SOON TO THE FINEST PROFESSIONAL SALONS New Zealand 0800 456 426 JOICO.CO.NZ © Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA

HAIR Joico Artistic Team

COLOR Denis de Souza

PHOTO Hama Sanders

*When using Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner/Masque, which preserve over 80% of haircolor after 18 washes. ** vs. other Joico lighteners.


Headway | EDITOR’S LET TER

D HEA WA Y

14 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

MAGA Z AY

E IN

Chanel Classic 2.55 bag

Joico Blonde Life Brightening Veil

@HEADW

Faby Posh Collectio

n

Yves St Laurent Manifesto

E

EDITOR’S PICKS

MAGAZIN

W

elcome to Headway’s ‘luxe’ winter issue. And I’m welcoming myself back too! After an amazing start to motherhood, I am really excited to be back at Headway once again, joining an expanded team. I’m also really excited to wear clothes and makeup, leave the house alone, and converse with people who speak in full sentences, rather than using a completely unique method of ‘talking’ when they want something. Yes, adorable but other mothers out there, I truly do salute you. I can’t tell you how wonderful it’s been to catch up with so many industry friends and colleagues over the past few months. I have had ample opportunity to do so, with events ranging from Kérastase’s opulent launch of their Aura Botanica range, through to the opening of the new L’Oréal Academy, and celebrating the winners of the INDUSTRY New Zealand Hairdressing Awards. Seeing all this stunning creative work by our Kiwi hairdressers reminded me once again why I love being a part of our industry. The work of these talented winners features on page 24. A round of applause also to the 15 New Zealand hairdressers and salons nominated for the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards 2017. This issue went to print just before the winners were announced, but we celebrate the finalists on page 52 and keep your eyes on our social media from June 12th. La Prairie Cellular Cream Platinum The Headway team did a fantastic job while I was on leave, and I love the fresh, new look of the magazine. I also love the fact that my first Ho u s e ’ Is My t e issue back is focused on something I e tr nd S Sharleen Singh & Charmaine am slowly reacquainting myself with ‘Bo Guest at INDUSTRY Awards – luxury. From lavish salon and spa-style, through to collections from top global creatives, indulgent hair care and the best in anti-ageing products, we’ve got it covered. We speak to a variety of hair creatives and beauty professionals in this edition, each of whom is motivating in their own right. There’s plenty of creative inspiration, coverage of trends coming via the runway and the new styles gracing celebrity muses; ‘Contourage’, ‘What’s Trending’ and ‘Cool Girl Hair’ deliver updates on all the latest looks. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as I enjoyed putting it together. It’s great to be back!


MY HAIR CARES $20 donation with every styler purchase and $10 donation with every hairdryer purchase of the pink blush collection*

*$20 per styler, $10 per hairdryer and $2 per paddle brush of the pink blush collection sold will be donated to the National Breast Cancer Foundation or Breast Cancer Foundation NZ.

Available in the finest salons, premium retail and ghdhair.com/anz/pink

GOLD PARTNER


START YOUR CAREER IN THE BEAUTY & FASHION INDUSTRY HAIRDRESSING - BARBERING - MAKEUP ENROL NOW

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IMAGE Adrian Rotolo

Hair


Dateline Imports are pleased to announce they are the NZ distributors for luxury brand, Oribe. The Oribe product offering, which features both skin care technology and natural actives, delivers high-performance, treatmentbased products, with a focus on healthy, sexy hair and glamorous styling. Our pick for winter is the Oribe Gold Lust Repair and Restore range, reawakening hair to its healthiest, glossiest prime. Dateline have also taken on the R&Co care and styling range. datelineimports.co.nz

Hair news Hair Saviour Dedicated to the problems of fragile scalp and hair prone to falling out, Davines Naturaltech introduces the Energizing family; a collection of 5 products containing Green Tea Extract and Vitamin B3. The Shampoo, Seasonal Superactive, Gel, Thickening Tonic and all-round Superactive work together to reduce scalp sebum production, rebalance, improve hydration and hair density, and add renewed strength. be.co.nz 18 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

Think Pink Show that your hair cares by supporting ghd’s 2017 Breast Cancer Campaign. ghd has raised over $20 million for breast cancer foundations worldwide, and by treating your locks to these limited-edition blush pink favourites, you’re making a difference to more than your hair. ghdhair.com/nz

MAIN IMAGE LEFT: Angelo Seminara

Time To Shine


Hair | NEWS

STYLE MATTERS

Repair And Renew

KMS has undergone a reinvention, launching new products, updating their look, and reorganising their assortment into user-friendly START, STYLE and FINISH. Clients are encouraged to create their own ‘style equation’ using this format. All products are backed by TRIfinity technology to ensure longevity and style performance. Best of all, the products are multi-compatible and work best as a 3-step regime. We love the new packaging design, based on the creative ethos of raw sophistication. Eleven new product innovations, including ADDVOLUME Liquid Dust, MOISTREPAIR Cleansing Conditioner, and HAIRSTAY Working Hair Spray complete the new portfolio. kmshair.com

Organic Colour Systems introduce the revolutionary Rep-Hair Follicle Strengthening System. A natural and scientifically-formulated daily scalp and hair care regime, RepHair improves the strength and condition of scalp and hair, creating an optimum follicular environment for hair growth. With nourishing and strenghtening organic extracts, Capixyl™ elite hair care complex reduces hair loss and stimulates hair growth for a renewed lease of life. organiccoloursystems.com

Glow Dry Redken’s Diamond Oil Glow Dry range boosts your blow-dry with new heatresponsive silicone technology that delivers lightweight care and diamondlike shine. The ultra-lightweight formulas work to reduce blow-dry time, while enhancing style control, manageability, volume and hydration, and are suitable for every hair type and texture. The collection features a Gloss Shampoo, Scrub, Detangling Conditioner and luxe oil. redken.co.nz

AGE DEFY Delivering the coolest natural coverage to hair with 50% or more gray, plus locks that look and feel more youthful from the inside out, is Joico Vero K-Pak Age Defy’s Natural Platinum Ash Series. Offering four shades, a gray-blue platinum base gives this collection the power to produce lustrous cool tones, while freezing out brassiness. joico.co.nz

Natural Luxury Natural haircare combines with performance and luxury, thanks to Kérastase Aura Botanica. Crafted with pure, hand-pressed Samoan coconut and Moroccan argan oils, the range is 98% natural in origin, while the packaging supports Kérastase’s promise to reduce its carbon footprint. Leading the way with the sustainable packaging renovation to save an estimated 45 tonnes of plastic per year, this is a huge step towards furthering L’Oréal’s commitment to environmental sustainability. The collection features Bain Micellaire, L’Oreal’s first shampoo with micellar water, Soin Fondamental conditioning formula, Concentré Essentiel, an aromatic blend for nourishment, and Essence D’Éclat, a moisturising bi-phase oil mist. kerastase.co.nz HEADWAY.NET.NZ 19


Hair | NEWS

Style Crush We’ve been crushing on model Hailey Baldwin for a while, and clearly so have L’Oréal Professionnel. The ‘it’ girl and Instagram favourite joins Taylor Hill as L’Oréal’s newest international spokesperson. Combined, Baldwin and Hill have amassed an army of 15 million Instagram followers. Both embody a generation of women that are addicted to fashion and ultra-connected; women who express their personality through hair colour and style to transform themselves, just like with makeup. lorealprofessionnel.co.nz

DEAR BARBER The UK-born Dear Barber men’s grooming range is now in New Zealand, courtesy of Southern Salon Supplies. The unique, vintage-style line-up provides salons with an alternative range to complete their ‘man space’ and consists of 4 styling products, 3 grooming products and a shampoo and conditioner.

Tie Me Up

20 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

southernsalonsupplies.co.nz

Salon Style Comfortel Furniture has created six new salon interior design collections, which debuted at Hair Expo 2017. Natural Scandi, Urban Jungle, Workshop, Metallic Blush, Luxe Plush and Brass Minimalist are all unique and aspirational showcases. Comfortel also outline how to create the looks, with the perfect salon furniture that allow it to come to life. comfortel.co.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

Introducing the invisibobble® NANO, to bridge the gap and create a new way to wear your hair up, without compromising the classic invisibobble® benefits. With the NANO, you can separate smaller hair sections, fix elegant updo’s or secure impressive braided styles – no need for clips or bobby pins. The spiral shape of the NANO provides a firm grip in the hair and is perfect for any updo needing a strong hold. crewdistributors.co.nz


Southern Salon Supplies are proud to announce they are the new distributor for Clairol Professional in New Zealand. The brand also has a new education platform designed to connect and grow with stylists at every level. Learn more at southernsalonsupplies.co.nz

BONDING TIME L’Oréal Professionnel offers an innovative system to protect and strengthen hair during technical services. Smartbond added to colour minimises potential damage, protecting bonds deep within the hair during colouring and lightening. Clients can still experience the beauty of colour but with hair that is stronger, softer, and glossier.

New Distributor

lorealprofessionnel.co.nz

Salon Wear Glide Hair Tools’ Unisex Denim Apron is both fun and practical. Made of hard-wearing denim with an adjustable neck and extra-long ties, the longer you wear it, the more character it will have. See page 35 for the release deal or your nearest wholesaler.

Powerful Care For Hair La Biosthetique Protection Cheveux Complexe delivers a revolutionary active ingredient that protects, restructures and conditions hair both inside and out, during and after chemical treatments. The hair structure is lastingly renewed, while hair is conditioned and sealed to regain its natural beauty. labiosthetique.com.au

PHARMABROKER SALES Contact Fiona Davis P 09 415 5050 fiona@pharmabroker.co.nz


www.sebastianprofessional.com www.facebook.com/SebastianProfessionalANZ @sebastianproanz To find out more about Sebastian Dark Oil, please contact your Wella Sales consultant, call 0800 800 128 or visit www.sebastianprofessional.com


AUGMENTED STYLING NEW DARK OIL Supernatural shine, smoothness and body in a bottle

WHAT’S NEXT.


Hair Excellence

The INDUSTRY NZ Hairdressing Awards, held in Auckland on May 21st, celebrated some of the finest talent this country has to offer. Here are the extraordinarily talented winners for 2017

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Derek Elvy

WELLA NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Michael Beel

HANZ DE FUKO MEN’S STYLIST OF THE YEAR Mana Dave

KEVIN MURPHY COLOURIST OF THE YEAR Cinnamon Scholes

FUDGE EMERGING STYLIST OF THE YEAR Kelly Manu

HEADWAY MAGAZINE MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR Courtney Taylor

SACHAJUAN CREATIVE TEAM OF THE YEAR French Revolver Studio

24 HEADWAY.NET.NZ


Hair | NZ AWARDS

WELLA NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Michael Beel Buoy Salon & Spa, Wellington

HEADWAY.NET.NZ 25


Hair | NZ AWARDS

KEVIN MURPHY COLOURIST OF THE YEAR Cinnamon Scholes Toni&Guy, Auckland

26 HEADWAY.NET.NZ


FUDGE EMERGING STYLIST OF THE YEAR Kelly Manu Blaze, Auckland

HANZ DE FUKO MEN’S STYLIST OF THE YEAR Mana Dave Blaze, Auckland

HEADWAY.NET.NZ 27


HEADWAY MAGAZINE MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR Courtney Taylor

1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

SACHAJUAN CREATIVE TEAM OF THE YEAR French Revolver Studio, Auckland


WIN

NZ : CS&CO T: 0800 604 604 WWW.CS.CO.NZ NEW SMOKEY TONER PALLETE AVAILABLE FROM JULY AUS: SABRE CORPORATION T: 1300 764 437 WWW.SABRECORP.COM.AU NEW SMOKEY TONER PALLETE AVAILABLE FROM JUNE

A Photographic Shoot Experience

IN MILAN WITH

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL IN COLLABORATION WITH


Hair | PROFILE

Five minutes with... Sebastian Professional Creative Director, Brad Lepper, shares his love for the brand and what inspires him creatively FOLLOW BRAD LEPPER @bradlepperhairstylist

B

rad Lepper is well-known in the New Zealand industry as an award-winning stylist and owner of successful Auckland salon, French Revolver Studio, named Salon Team of the Year at the 2017 INDUSTRY Awards. In 2015, Brad was announced as the first ANZ hairstylist to be offered a place on the globally esteemed Sebastian Professional International Artist Team, representing the brand globally at events, shows and seminars. We talk to Brad about his role with Sebastian and his passion for the industry.

WHAT DOES YOUR ROLE AS SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR ENTAIL? My role is to showcase the new collections to the ANZ Artistic Team and Education Team. These are released twice a year, so my time is spent travelling internationally and domestically to support the brand and keep it creatively consistent with the global vision.

WHAT HAVE BEEN THE HIGHLIGHTS SINCE BEING PART OF THE GLOBAL CREATIVE TEAM? Definitely working with some of the most creative hairdressers in the world! The Creative Directors of Sebastian Professional are so talented and they push the boundaries every time we see them, which is exciting for me to take back to ANZ and share with the local team. Being able to do shows in places like Berlin, Barcelona, and India is an absolute treat. I still pinch myself that I get to work in these incredible places with amazing people. 30 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO WORK WITH THE SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL BRAND? I fell in love with the brand when I first saw Sebastian Professional come to Auckland years ago. I've been approached by many companies in the past and still get approached today, but Sebastian Professional was my first love in hairdressing and I find their ethos is very similar to mine; they are always trying to innovate and bring hairdressing back to a craft form.

WHAT INFLUENCES YOU CREATIVELY? If you ask my wife, she would say I'm crazy. I find myself zoning into different thought patterns with moments of clarity which present opportunities. It can be anything; from walking into a $2 shop with my son, being in a fabric store in India, walking along a beach and seeing something jump out and then seeing something that makes sense. It comes alive when you get the right kind of model, which influences your thought pattern into a different kind of light and direction.

HOW MUCH DOES FASHION INSPIRE YOUR EDITORIAL WORK? It doesn't influence too much. Fashion can sometimes limit your creativity, as whilst it can be a trend, sometimes you need to push past a trend to create something new and different. Fashion can be a directional pull, but you can't sit on that trend because then you become mainstream. And Sebastian Professional is anything but mainstream.

WHO ARE YOUR INDUSTRY MENTORS? Shay Dempsey and all the Sebastian Professional Creative Team.


Headway | PROMOTION

Looks from Sebastian Professional’s new Re-Charge Collection

The person that looks after me in Australia is Wella’s Creative Education Manager, Ludmilla Hlinovsky, for business clarity. Frank Apostolopoulos is my creative outlet and we always have a great catch up. All my Sebastian Professional crew in ANZ inspire me with the work they create. My team at French Revolver Studio keep me grounded and allow me to do what I do because they are an amazing and understanding bunch of people.

WHAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT QUALITY YOU LOOK FOR IN SOMEONE JOINING THE FRENCH REVOLVER TEAM? Working as a team is the most important thing for us. French Revolver is a collective group of artists; they all love what they do and love who they work with. We see each other as individual artists and feed off each other’s creativity. There is no ego or hierarchy, which keeps the team alive.

WHAT ARE YOUR ‘CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT’ PRODUCTS? Can't live without the new Sebastian Professional Dark Oil! My

favourites are Thickefy Foam, Texture Maker, Shine Shaker and Volupt Spray. Sebastian has an amazing portfolio of products. It’s a great brand to experiment with.

WHAT SHAPES AND COLOURS ARE YOU ENJOYING CREATING FOR CLIENTS RIGHT NOW? I’m inspired by the 70’s; curly lobs with long bangs and high shag texture. I have been known to throw out a few beach wave perms to create the hairstyle. With colour, I’m doing a lot of panel work with short, cropped shapes to accent the texture with a high saturation of pastel tones - blues with greens, pinks with peach and blues with baby blue.

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO BE IN 5 YEARS TIME? I want to see French Revolver Studio establish its reputation as a creative art house, and have a team of unique individuals wanting to make their own mark on the industry. I want to do more creative work globally, in order to educate and inspire hairdressers, and show how much Sebastian Professional has to offer. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 31


Hair | FOCUS

CONTOURAGE - A NEW TECHNIQUE INSPIRED BY MAKEUP TRENDS. By ANNE O’BRIEN

S

o far 2017 has been an exciting adventure, a little like back to the future. The 80’s have featured (yes even crimped hair), the 50’s ponytails, the 70’s shag and punk is being bounced around as a term again but perhaps not as Malcolm McLaren envisioned it. One new colour innovation that has caught our attention is ‘Contourage’. It is not often we see the beauty world ejecting into the hair stratosphere. Most times, for instance, makeup is determined primarily by our hair colour and style. As we go darker in the winter, makeup becomes more exotic and adventurous. As we go lighter in the summer, makeup becomes more natural and the bronzed goddesses begin to emerge. Contourage was inspired by the current Instagram driven trend of contouring and perfecting the face with makeup. The basis of the flip in trend setting - where hair follows skin. No doubt the giants of the hair industry became well aware of the public addiction to contouring even in its humble beginnings. Search #contour on Instagram now and be blown away as there have been nearly 4 million public posts. It made perfect sense to join the stampede as it were and invest in the development of hair products along the same lines. Merging the cult balayage technique and the makeup-focused contouring in one and ‘Contourage’ was launched. Wella Professionals introduced this next generation of hair colour contouring as ‘Colour that shapes you, a new way to enhance and define your true self’. So what exactly is it? The service is customised using light and shade to sharpen and pull focus to your favourite features and blending imperfections into

shadow. Lighter shades are framed around areas of the face that reflect light - the cheekbones and temples, as well as the jawline. Darker tones are placed behind the areas of the face that reflect light. This way, they get to accentuate the contours of the face. And just like contouring of the face using makeup, the hair application does take time and skill. Each application is different as all face shapes are unique. The technique works well on textured hair styles and longer layers but can be adapted. Because it is a bespoke service be prepared for a very special result - beautiful but not boring. A bonus for more mature clients is that contourage adds depth to thinning hair. This gives the face a natural lift and makes hair look thicker. Celebrity hairdresser Jo Hansford whose clients include Gwyneth and Angelina (johansford.com) has declared ‘contourage’ as the official hair colour trend for 2017 and was quoted by the Daily Mail who were covering a story citing hairdressers as the new leaders in anti-ageing treatments for the face - using hairdressing scissors rather than surgery (pressreader.com). We are looking forward to seeing how this new customised technique is received. As far as we are concerned we’re sold, and not just because the slimming and anti-ageing effects do not involve a gym visit or an incision – well, maybe.

Tried the new ‘Contourage’?

Let us know what you think by contacting the HWY team at info@headway.net.nz, we love to hear your feedback.

@johansfordsalon

@ejlondonaveda

34 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

IMAGE Wella Professionals Couture Colour

@feeltherush.66


GLIDE HAIR TOOLS

Denim Apron • Hard Wearing • Adjustable Neck • Extra-Long Ties • Universal Size • Will Mark & Bleach to add character Normally $32.50INC

Now buy 2 get 1 FREE for only $65.00INC Discount of 33%

Average now $21.66 per apron

GLIDE HAIR TOOLS

Pre-Cut

JOHN WOOD, WELLA PROFESSIONALS GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, COLOUR

“Wella Professionals’ take on hair contouring goes beyond just the placement of various shades to alter the face shape. Yes, we manipulate the perception of shape through an artistic and intelligent approach to colour placement, but it’s not painting by numbers – it’s an ultra-customised technique that also works with the unique personality and style of the client - pulling focus to their best features and softening imperfections.”

• 18micron • 20.5 X 12.5 • 525 sheets corrugated with a pre folded lip • Boxed to assist the hairdresser in easier pick up Normally $23.95INC

Now buy 2 for only $39.95INC

Average per box is now $19.95INC Total Value $47.90

Discount of 17%

Contact your nearest stockist AR Distributors

Nelson 03 547 7707 Salon Warehouse

Auckland 09 447 1655 Progressive Salon Supplies

HEADWAY.NET.NZ 24

Christchurch 03 379 9735


Hair | PROFILE

B L O N D E AMBI T I O N

RALIANZ ST

@

ICOAU JO

Kiwi hair designer and Joico Guest Artist, Nic Apaapa, talks about Joico’s new Blonde Life range, and his favourite shades for fair heads this season

A

self-employed professional hair designer and consultant with a career spanning more than two decades, Nic Apaapa has owned two successful salons. His passion as a creative sees him working as a freelance stylist, backstage at Fashion Week, the Vodafone Music Awards, and as an editorial stylist. Here’s his take on why Joico Blonde Life fits the bill for his clientele.

As a Joico Guest Artist, what do love most about working with the brand? I’ve worked with Joico for many years and they’ve helped by using the best ingredients and releasing innovative new products, such as Free Play Clay Lightener, which is awesome for balayage or freehand hair painting. I’ve also had the pleasure of working alongside many fantastic hairdressers and meeting some great industry leaders, thanks to Joico.

What’s the best thing about Joico’s new Blonde Life haircare range? I love the professional Blonde Life Lightening Powder, which is suitable for use on and off the scalp and gives up to 9 levels of lift. The powder is pale blue, making it easier to see how much lift has been achieved, and can be used with 10 to 40 volume developer. I also love the Blonde Life Masque treatment, which revives blondes like no other.

How does it differ from other ‘blonde’ products you’ve used in the past? As with all Joico lighteners, Blonde Life Lightening Powder uses lower levels of Veroxide® and when left on hair a little longer, gives better lift, while still leaving hair in superior condition. Blonde Life Shampoo, Conditioner and Masque are not purple-based, which means they are gentler, as they’re not trying to force pigment into hair. The perfectly balanced pH in Blonde Life retail products helps maintain softness and condition, and are sulphate-free, making them perfect for a daily haircare regime.

blonde life collection

What’s trending for blonde hair colour this winter? We’re doing a lot of nude blondes at the moment, combining both cool and warm blondes to provide more light and shadow. This look suits most clients, as you can surround the face with complimentary tones, then alternate warm and cool throughout the rest of the hair. Styles and shapes you’re enjoying for clients this winter? Fringes in all forms seem to be making a comeback for winter, which is exciting, as it can completely change up a look. Lobs are still around but seem to be getting shorter, which is great, as the long hair trend has been around for a while now. What would be your ‘desert island’ Joico product? One product to grab before the boat sinks would be

Which hairdressers do you most admire? Any hairdresser who does what they love is an inspiration. I admire many; from Sue Pemberton, world-renowned colourist who teaches globally, through to Tabatha Coffey, or local legends like Brenda Allinson, who has maintained the true training foundations of our industry and continues to train some of NZ’s best stylists. Hairdressing is an industry where we’re encouraged to share ideas; I love that too. That’s what keeps us a tight community.

Motto to live by? Don’t settle. 36 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

Joico K-Pak Colour Therapy Luster Lock treatment. This moisture and protein treatment adds condition, shine and rebuilds even the most damaged hair.


“ Bio Ionic OnePass straightening irons truly are just ‘one pass’. The silicone strips add just enough grip to leave the hair silky smooth with fantastic shine. The adjustable temperature allows for just the right heat for all hair types.”

Nic Apaapa JOICO Guest Artist

EXPLORE YOUR CREATIVITY

Bio Ionic uses a proprietary mineral complex within their tools that breaks down water molecules to infuse hair with moisture.

Distributed by Sabre Corporation Call 0800 456 426 /bioionicausnz

@bioionic_ausnz


PUNK LINE HAIR DIRECTOR: Kevin Murphy PHOTOGRAPHER: Luis Murphy COLOUR: Kate Reid, Michael Jung, Prokop Moravec using KEVIN.MURPHY HAIR ASSISTANTS: Craig Hughan, Juha-Matti Manninen, Michael Birrer, Prokop Moravec MAKEUP: Hristina Georgievski STYLIST: Emily Ward


Headway | PROMOTION


Hair | INTERNATIONAL

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Hair | INTERNATIONAL

INSPIRATION “Girl power” was the inspiration behind Kevin Murphy’s new COLOR.ME campaign, PUNK. LINE. The collection speaks to a bolder new woman with a cool femininity, through a range of shades and techniques that define the perception of new beauty. Drawing inspiration from the radical feminist 90’s girl band, Bikini Kill, the collection is about having the confidence to be a strong individual and dance to the beat of your own drum.

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5

minutes with... Beautiful Environment, known simply as ‘Be’ is the new distributor for Davines in New Zealand. We speak with Managing Director, Ryland Wood, about his passion for the brand and plans for the future @BE.SUS

Angelo Seminara

WHAT IS THE PHILOSOPHY BEHIND BE? It’s all too easy to get caught up in the chaos of life, to be distracted or consumed by stress and forget who we are. We created Be to encourage hairdressers to be present in the now, to be mindful and conscious, to embrace beauty as something both internal and external, and most importantly, to be themselves.

INABLE TA

WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND IN THE HAIRCARE INDUSTRY? I married into it – my husband’s a hairdresser. Around seven years ago at Hair Expo, he introduced me to Mike Beauchamp from Boutique Hair Brands, where I ended up working in sales, marketing and management for five years.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU MOST ABOUT THE DAVINES BRAND AND WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE INVOLVED? Davines is authentically good; keenly focused on ethics, nature, innovation and beautiful design. I could go on for days about Davines, but what inspires me the most is that they respect and encourage individuality. I wanted to be involved because I believe Davines is a means to affect positive change in an industry I love. 44 HEADWAY.NET.NZ


Hair | PROFILE

Ryland’s Favourites Netflix Series: Stranger Things, The OA, Black Mirror and Orange is the New Black. Part of the Davines EcoVillage in Parma, Italy, opening in 2018

WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU THIS YEAR IN TERMS OF BEING THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR OF DAVINES FOR NZ? For me, it’s about building strong foundations to support our clients now and into the future. Davines salons have had a fairly unsettling time over the past few months, so we’re doing everything we can to ensure they have what they need to confidently flourish.

WHAT CAN DAVINES SALONS LOOK FORWARD TO, IN TERMS OF WORKING WITH BE? Davines salons can look forward to working with a team of people dedicated to one brand. They can look forward to a new approach to education; one that builds communities and develops deep expertise. They can look forward to coming to World Wide Hair Tour in Parma, Italy, next year for the opening of the Davines Eco-Village!

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE LOOK LIKE FOR DAVINES, HERE AND INTERNATIONALLY? Davines has been the fastest-growing full service professional hair brand in the world for the past six years, as the ideals that have always been important to Davines become more mainstream. I expect this will continue. Locally, we certainly don’t want to be the biggest or flashiest. I would hope that one day soon, we could be the most admired.

Book: The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle.

Film: Old Boy by Park Chan-Wook, Children of Men by Alfonso Cuarón, 2001: A Space Odyssey by Stanley Kubrick, and everything by Quentin Tarantino. Guilty Pleasure: Vege nachos, and chocolate caramel slice from Little Bird. Hair Product: It always changes. Today, it’s Naturaltech Energizing Shampoo, NOUNOU Hair Mask and This Is A Medium Hold Pliable Paste, all by Davines of course.

Celebrity Crush: Susan Sarandon, for her work in Feud.

Holiday Destination: Seminyak in Bali, Aoyama in Tokyo and Mykonos in Greece.

Inspirational Hairdressers: There’s not enough room on the page to list all the Kiwi hairdressers who inspire me. So I’ll just say Angelo Seminara and be done with it.

WHAT MOTIVATES YOU PERSONALLY AND PROFESSIONALLY EACH DAY?

Luxe Purchase: I love to splash out on bedding, dinner and travel.

He tãngata – the people. I am utterly motivated and energised by the people around me: my friends and family, my incredible colleagues, my inspiring clients. Each interaction I have with people I care about fills my cup.

Designers: Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester and Commes de Garçon. Locally, Jarrad Godman, Thyen from Tür and Nom*D.

Davines collection image from Angelo Seminara; Ryland’s product faves

Davines is available exclusively from professional hair salons that care about beauty on the outside and within. Contact Be by... EMAIL: hello@be.co.nz PHONE: 0800 be yourself (0800 239 687)

@BE.JUS

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

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Hair | NEW PRODUCTS

COLOUR ME BEAUTIFUL Keep blondes fresh, nourished and vibrant for the winter season with these newly released product picks

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MATRIX BRASS OFF COLOR OBSESSED SHAMPOO

Top Tools PARLUX ADVANCE LIGHT LIMITED-EDITION

Neutralise brassy tones and refresh cool tones to restore blonde purity. Colourcorrecting pigments attach to hair fibers, while vitamin oil promotes hydration and softness. matrix.com

Brighten up winter styling with this lightweight fluro orange blow-drying legend. dateline.co.nz GHD SWEET SIXTEEN STYLER: This quick,

effortless and heat-savvy purple limited-edition original styler is a brilliant all-rounder, ensuring styling coloured locks has never been more effortless. ghdhair.com/anz Y.S PARK CARBON TIGER STYLER

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL SÉRIE EXPERT NUTRIFIER MASQUE

FANOLA NO YELLOW SHAMPOO Ideal for grey or superlightened hair, strong violet pigments cool down unwanted tones for colour consistency and vibrancy. dateline.co.nz 46 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

KEVIN.MURPHY SHIMMER.ME BLONDE This repairing shine mist treatment uses colour enhancers, brighteners and natural softeners to moisturise, restore and refresh highlights and blonde shades. crewdistributors.co.nz

JOICO BLONDE LIFE BRIGHTENING VEIL

SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL COLOR SAVE SHAMPOO Prolong luminous colour and protect the keratin structure of hair for a long-lasting fresh result. systemprofessional.com

A multi-tasking powerhouse that treats vulnerable blonde locks, protecting them from mechanical, thermal and UV damage to leave brilliant, healthy-looking blondes that shine. joico.co.nz

IMAGE Kevin Murphy and supplied

Deliver concentrated moisture and replenish coloured strands with enriching and shine-enhancing glycerol and coconut oil. lorealprofessionnel.co.nz

With boar bristle and Antibacterial Nano Silver pins, this is the perfect choice for picking up sections with ease, faster rolling and antistatic. phb.net.nz


5 x stronger The first hair repair system to naturally rebuild sulphur bonds. Proven to be up to five times stronger than competitor brands.

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The Proof S S

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OT H E R B R A N D S Using malic acid, the bond is artificially patched and reconnected with a fragile ionic bond, washing out over time.

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WITH PCC Sulphur bonds are naturally rebuilt through a blend of 4 key ingredients: cysteine, cross-linked cysteine, magnesium & keratin.

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T H E R E S U LT Incredible strength, shine, and softness, wash after wash.

CONTACT LA BIOSTHETIQUE AT 0800 522 467 OR LABIOSTHETIQUE.CO.NZ FOR STOCKIST INFORMATION

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@bennettgrey Braiding There were so many different ways to style braids. From badass boxer braids to romantic Dutch braids to French braids, fishtails, tribal anticonformist and casual braided updos for tomboys – the options are endless.

@laurapolko

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Plaits Well what we did learn was that braids are interweaved and plaits are not. Or did we? After much debate over this we couldn’t really decide - is there a difference or just two words for the same thing? Whatever your thoughts we are crushing on the huge amount of options to style braids and plaits this season. Pick your plait from pretty hippie style to looped pigtails - there’s a plait to suit everyone.

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New season means new hair and social media was a feast of inspiration via the festival and fashion show coverage of autumn winter 2017/18. Because we know you don’t always have the time to be scrolling Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter at the meteoric speed of a teenager, Headway shares trends and talking points of what’s coming up…

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Wave Hair that flowed and hair that moved freely brought beach girl energy into the winter season. Stella McCartney styled simply with water and confirmed the natural look is letting hair simply speak for itself. The difference with this seasons wave? A f lat iron

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Hair | TRENDS

@jonathan_colombini

@SCOTTKINGHAIR

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@ashleyrubell

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@cashlawlesshair @leoizquierdo

@coveteur Ponytail new-generation

@laurapolko

Starting off with a velvet sensation from the beginning of the year (think luxurious black velvet ribbons) the next generation of ponytails has hit town. It’s getting longer and more mermaidish if the music awards were anything to go by. But one things for sure it never goes out of fashion. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 49


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Baby grand We so get the name of this trend as we can immediately see exactly what it is – a collection of the hair but not quite. A nod to the seventies, it is quick and easy to recreate and we seriously like it.

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@emayasalon

@HAIR_BY_FADIA_GEORGEES @ELIESAABWORLD

Headbands Is anyone tempted to say ‘I’m with the (head) band’ or is it just us? Bejeweled, delicate, golden and super fancy we also saw glimpses of retro black leather and even spotted a sporty look. Whatever the preference they enhanced most looks and made us all want to dress up a little more.

@chanelofficial

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@_hairbygabrielle


Hair | TRENDS

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Middle line No longer on the sidelines the middle part moves to centre stage. Whilst slicked back hair was everywhere in the spring collections, things definitely loosened up a bit for the autumn/winter shows and the look is easy, effortless, undone but super shiny. Check out Michael Kors for the best example of going straight down the middle.

@_hairbygabrielle YA @ R NP EA

PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram, MBFWA 17 BTS // Flaunter 2017 and supplied

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Side Line Volume at the roots is what is needed to make this runway trend work. In the celebrity world Olivia Munn or Keira Knightley are obvious choices for the glamourous end of the scale whilst for every day wear the key is in the lengths melting seamlessly and effortlessly, still with a rock chick attitude. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 51


Competitive Edge @H A

Congratulations to the 15 New Zealand finalists who made the cut for the 2017 Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards. Here’s a look at their outstanding work

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NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS

Anne Marie Young Jingles Hair Design Hamilton

Kylie Hayes Moha Hairdressing Dunedin

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Hair | NZ AWARDS

Natasha King Fred & Gingers Invercargill

Danny Pato d&m Hair Design Auckland

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COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR FINALISTS

Mathias Te Moananui Buoy Salon & Spa Wellington

Chinney Yeap Buoy Salon & Spa Wellington

NEW CREATIVE FORCE FINALIST Kiri Roberts Mane Salon, Wellington

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Hair | NZ AWARDS

MEN’S HAIRDRESSER/BARBER OF THE YEAR FINALIST Kaleb Pritchard Dharma, Auckland

APPRENTICE/STUDENT OF THE YEAR FINALIST Tima Tagoai Dharma, Auckland

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Hair | NZ AWARDS

SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR d&m Hair Design Auckland

Buoy Salon & Spa Wellington

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

Dharma Auckland

Dharma Ellerslie Auckland

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#AndisNation Real tools. Real barbers. Real life.

Cordless USProTM Li

T-OutlinerTM

Crew Distributors 0800 CREW66 (273 966) info@crewdistributors.co.nz


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Hair | FOCUS

HAIR RE-BORN

@WELL

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Bronwyn Illingworth for System Professional

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major leap forward in the science of hair care has informed the creation of the innovative and wholly new System Professional in-salon treatments and at-home product range. System Professional scientists, in co-creation with some of the world’s top hair stylists, say they have succeeded in unlocking the secret to re-energising and transforming hair. System Professional discovered that each individual’s hair has its own “Hair Energy” profile, as unique as a fingerprint, and that hair can be visibly transformed via revolutionary new ENERGYCODE™ COMPLEX. But what does great “hair energy” look like? “Hair with the right energy levels is responsive to styling, is manageable, with glossy shine and comb-ability. It’s not tired, limp or dull; it’s alive with youthfulness and vitality,” says Maria Castan, System Professional Senior Scientist . “Whilst keratin acts as hair’s main building block (96%), this new research has shown that lipids (only 4% of hair’s main building blocks), have a uniquely active influence upon hair, acting as a kind of flexible ‘cement’ to bind the keratin ‘bricks’. Managing the right levels and condition of both keratin and lipids in an individual’s hair is the key to influencing its structure, which ultimately will determine whether hair is smooth or frizzy, shiny or dull, limp or full of bounce,” says Dr. Ramon Grimalt, independent hair biologist and Professor of Dermatology at the University of Barcelona. Inspired by luxury skincare science, ENERGYCODE™ COMPLEX is a patented combination of 5 naturally-occurring active lipids and other powerful ingredients that instantly boosts hair quality and helps restore hair energy. The result is strong, responsive and virgin-like hair with regular use. Salons can use System Professional’s ENERGYCODE MAPPING® to diagnose an individual’s unique hair energy profile. Global Ambassadors Poppy and Chloe Delevingne can attest to System Professional’s innovation and superiority. “Though we lead somewhat different lives, we share lots of similarities, which is why it was eye-opening for us to see the results of our EnergyCode diagnosis. It revealed how dramatically different our hair needs are,” says Chloe Delevingne. “The results were immediate; I could feel my hair almost instantly re-energised, like it hadn’t been in years.” Poppy Delevigne commented that System Professional finally helped her “tame the beast!”

@S Y

Wella’s System Professional reveals a ground-breaking new innovation to unlock the energy of hair

TREND VISION 2017 When this edition of Headway went to print, the Trend Vision 2017 New Zealand finalists were just about to be announced. We can’t wait to learn who the talented hairdressers are, two of whom will be competing at the International Final in London during November. The Trend Vision New Zealand Final will be held in Auckland on Sunday 10th September. Tickets to the event are $95, so make your booking now and support our local talent on 0508 493 552.

2016 Colour Vision Gold Award Winner, Mana Dave

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Hair | PROFILE

TEAM SPIRIT Two up-and-coming hairdressers from the Rodney Wayne Creative Art Team share their aspirations, inspirations and product favourites

MELISSA BRIANT Rodney Wayne Fort Street, Auckland

ANDREW COBELDICK Rodney Wayne on Manners, Wellington

What’s the best part about being part of the RW Creative Team? The opportunities that we get; not just being able to teach others in the Rodney Wayne Group, but to be part of fashion weeks and work on photoshoots with some amazing photographers and stylists. My other favourite part about being on the team is the team itself. We are like a little family, and Richard is such an awesome mentor.

What opportunities has it given you? The opportunities I’ve had have been such amazing experiences. I’ve had the chance to work at NZFW for a number of years now, at shows such as Stolen Girlfriends. We’re also fortunate enough to work with some of the best photographers and stylists, thanks to Richard, which allows us to enter the biggest hairdressing competitions in the country.

What’s inspiring you in your work currently? The amazing looks coming out of Australian Fashion Week, as well as the change of season. I use this inspiration to give my clients a new look to feel ready for winter.

What are your must-have tools and products of the moment? My absolute must-have tool for the season is the ghd creative wand. It’s so versatile and you can achieve glam or bohemian waves so easily. My ultimate favourite products lately have been old classics; Redken Rootful and Velvet Gelatine, to give hair amazing shine, cushion and hold.

What would be your ultimate dream hairdressing job? To work on international fashion shows and photoshoots. To travel the world and be part of some of the biggest names in hairdressing and fashion would be such a career pinnacle, I couldn’t even imagine. I do tend to dream big, so I have a lot of hard work ahead of me.

Where would you like to be in 5 years time? I would love to be backstage at New York Fashion Week, have my work published in international magazines, grow my hair and get a dog! 60 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

@_filthymisfit

What’s the best part about being part of the RW Creative Team? You get to be with the best of the best. You receive a high level of training from Richard Kavanagh, which pushes you to develop your skills and techniques that makes you become the best version of you!

What opportunities has it given you? This team has given me opportunities that one could only dream of. It’s turned my goals into realities, by having the chance to work at multiple fashion weeks in New Zealand, Melbourne and New York, and working on photoshoots and facilitating courses. It’s given me the gateway to reach my goals.

What’s inspiring you in your work currently? The 80’s and 90’s, and the latest trends off the runway. I’m really digging the mullet and Afro, and pushing those boundaries. I love the androgynist looks coming through; girls wearing modern mullets and undercuts. And the dudes? Long, luscious locks to die for.

What are your must-have tools and products of the moment? ghd creative styling wand, Mason Pearson brush and my magic hands. Nothing screams ‘effortlessly sexy’ more than these tools. My go-to products are Redken Volume Rootful, Pillow Proof Two-Day Extender, Pillow Proof Primer, Fashion Waves and Fabricate, for all-day volume, protection and again, effortlessly sexy hair.

What would be your ultimate dream hairdressing job? Becoming a session stylist. Travelling the world shooting magazine spreads, doing shows and educating the best in the industry.

Where would you like to be in 5 years time? I’d love to be session styling; working on magazine covers and spreads, and hair directing fashion shows. But still having my hand in the Rodney Wayne company - facilitating courses and being part of taking it from strength to strength! I’d love to continue to grow, improve and become the best version of me.

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

@millyjanebriant


Celebrating 25 years of the highest quality 100% natural human hair extensions Ethical sourcing, chemical-free The impossible is made possible. Incredible looks for every woman.

No Limits. Pure Joy.

Great Lengths New Zealand 0800 65 87 49 www.greatlengths.co.nz info@greatlengths.co.nz


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HAIR: Davines Artistic Director, Angelo Seminara, using Davines COLOUR: International Creative Colour Ambassador, Edoardo Paludo, using Davines Mask with Vibrachrom PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew O’Toole MAKEUP: Daniel Kolaric STYLING: Niccolò Torelli HEADWAY.NET.NZ 63


Headway | PROMOTION

INSPIRATION 'Rebel' is the result of the overwhelming attraction of 80’s graphics and urban art; spontaneous and direct, but with the power of ideas coming out of meticulous research. Similarly, the collection is simple, yet sophisticated, assertive, and sometimes biting. You can dare, be exuberant in expressing yourself without losing femininity; assertive and authentic at the same time. This collection belongs to every woman.


Hair | INTERNATIONAL

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HAIRCARE HITS UP QUEENSTOWN

From left to right: Ward, Garth & Geoff Gauvin

@HAIRC

The raw splendour of Queenstown was an idyllic setting for the 2017 Haircare Australia/ New Zealand Business Summit, writes Sharleen Singh. AR

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t was an extraordinary weekend enjoyed by all, and I was lucky enough to experience the magic first-hand at the highlyanticipated Haircare Australia/ New Zealand Business Summit in beautiful Queenstown during May. An organisation with humble beginnings, Haircare has quickly and remarkably expanded throughout Australia, New Zealand and the UK, to become one of Australasia’s largest independent distributors. When Geoff and Jan Gauvin first started the company, they took their many years of salon-owning experience and started up Haircare, ensuring their stockists had only the very best products to choose from. Haircare’s brands, including Evo, Lakmé, Cloud Nine and Moroccanoil, share the same ethos as they do, with a focus on family and education. We began day one with a crisp walk up to the Skyline Gondola where we were rewarded with exquisite views from our classroom for the next couple of days. Bliss! The captivating Chris Helder was first up, guiding us through his high-energy segment. The room was left buzzing on what type of “personality colour”

they were, leaving me (an aqua-yellow mix) and the room in fits of laughter. Next was the effortlessly charming Tognini family, consisting of industry legends Benni, Tracey, Kristian and Jules. The family covered topics ranging from Benni’s first foray onto the international hairstyling scene, to Jules’s very own award-nominated creations. After lunch, we welcomed Steven and Mandy. As owners of highly-successful South Australian salon ‘The Basin Haircutters’, their insights left the audience riveted and inspired. Day one’s formalities concluded with Tom Griffith from Emma and Tom’s, an organic drink range based in Australia, with Tom speaking about their journey and putting soul back into your business. After a beautiful traditional Maori welcome and thrilling performances by a local Kapa Haka group, the evening ended at the very cool Blue Kanu, with canapes, cocktails and great conversation. Monday began with the charismatic Matthew Michaelwicz and his seminar on the science of success plus the importance of knowledge and drive to achieve your goals. Then followed Justina Gardiner, Senior Marketing Manager of Haircare, who took us through their marketing


Hair | FOCUS

PHOTOGRAPHY Troy Tanner

“Not only are we a familyowned company, but each one of the brands we work with is a family-owned business, and each one of you is running your own family business too.”

plans, along with tips for the various salon owners present, showing that transparency truly is key within this organisation. We then welcomed prominent NZ businessman Bruce Cotterill, who touched on his corporate experiences, as well as dealing with change; he had the audience furiously scribbling down his insights and musings. Our last speaker of the weekend was the inspirational, and dare I say it, most incredible story-teller I have ever had the pleasure of listening to in person - the brilliant Peter Hillary. Likened to David Attenborough during the Q&A segment, all eyes were on Peter as he retold the thrilling story of his father’s ascent of Everest. He also recounted his own mountaineering adventures, including being at base camp when the devastating 2015 Nepal earthquakes hit – we were left truly speechless, and inspired to climb our very own metaphorical mountains. A well-deserved standing ovation ended this breath-taking segment. It became apparent that the diverse group of speakers all had the same underlying message; that of team work, unity and the importance of learning. “The organisation is focused on how best we can support the industry as a whole,

not just an elite few”, explained Gardiner. “It was amazing to see, over the course of the Summit, the number of valuable exchanges that were facilitated between these various voices”. Soon it was time to wine and dine at the magnificent Mount Soho Winery, a stunning location nestled in between rugged hills and serene skies. As we made our way through the main entrance, we were greeted by none other than Gandalf, hobbits, elves, and a brooding Black Rider on his horse, a clever introduction to Middle Earth. Later, in a beautiful banquet hall filled with twinkling lights, after wisdom from Benni Tognini, Geoff Gauvin movingly stating; “not only are we a family-owned company, but each one of the brands we work with is a family-owned business, and each one of you is running your own family business too. Supporting and partnering with all our extended families is very important to us at Haircare; it’s what makes us who we are”. The night ended on the dance floor, with smiles, laughter and positive vibes all around. It was a wonderfully enlightening and inspiring event to be invited to, so a huge thank you to the team for welcoming me so warmly. Until next time! HEADWAY.NET.NZ 2


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Hair | NEW PRODUCTS

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WINTER ESSENTIALS Here's our selection of new product favourites to keep hair looking and feeling gorgeous this season

1 Dajuja Antique Speed Brush Available in 4 sizes, the Speed Brush blends boar and nylon bristles in a revolutionary ‘V’ shape for increased grip and styling control. Heat-activated bristles soften when drying, reducing tangle and heat damage, plus the Electroplated Heat Tube increases heat conduction to the roots. phb.net.nz

2 Bio Ionic One Pass This silicone speed-strip straightener promises lightning-quick straightening, increased shine, and instant heat of up to 400°F. Plus, the Nanoionic™ Mineral technology ensures hair is kept conditioned, hydrated and silky-smooth. joico.co.nz

3 Fudge Professional Headpaint Ash Infusions We love this smoky capsule range of enhancing and neutralising toners for deluxe bespoke blonde effects. Choose from Rose Quartz, Graphite, and our favourite, Silver Lilac. cs.co.nz

4 KEVIN.MURPHY LEAVE-IN.REPAIR Nourish dry locks with this leave-in treatment that offers a targeted and weightless approach to repairing and restoring damaged hair. crewdistributors.co.nz

5 Davines Naturaltech Renewing Conditioning Treatment This longevity conditioner for the wellbeing of all scalp and hair types offers TLC for hair in need, providing nourishment, moisture, stimulation and shine. be.co.nz

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6 Pureology Hydrate Air Dry Cream Style with ease and keep the dreaded frizz at bay, all without the use of blow-drying. Hair is left to dry quickly and effortlessly with this moisture-rich must-have. pureology.com

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An evanescent styling oil that replenishes from inside out, then disappears thanks to DiffusX Technology. Formulated with sandalwood, cedarwood, and argan oil, it’s the perfect winter pick-me-up. sebastianprofessional.com

8 Nioxin Night Density Rescue Treatment 8 4

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Using revolutionary NIOXYDINE24 technology, Nioxin’s customised and patented approach helps deliver thicker, fuller-looking hair, neutralising oxidative damage at the scalp surface. nioxin.com

MODEL IMAGE: Frank Apostolopoulos

7 Sebastian Professional Dark Oil


JOIN THE TEAM

Want to take your hair career to the next level? Rodney Wayne is New Zealand’s leading hair salon brand and we love to help people reach their true potential. Joining the Rodney Wayne team brings great personal development, support and training opportunities, together with excellent earning potential. If you’re a stylist, colour technician, team leader, barber, manager or retail salesperson and enjoy helping people look and feel fabulous, please send your CV and cover letter to stephanie@rodneywayne.com or call Stephanie in confidence on 09 358 4644.


Hair | FOCUS

L’Atelier Blanc, Paris Embrace pure stylishness as Sharleen Singh discovers a delicately serene gem in the city of love & all things chic.

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Hair | FOCUS

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here’s something quite enchanting about l’Atelier Blanc, located a stone’s throw away from the Galerie Vivienne. This visual masterpiece was masterminded by renowned hairstylist Frédéric Mennetrier and interior designer Didier Blarda, offering an otherworldly sanctuary for Mennetrier’s chic Parisian clientele.

A LIGHTER CONCEPT Ten years ago, Mennetrier started up an all black strictly private space that tended to a loyal following of fashion and film industry professionals. However, he decided to go public, closing its doors and opening up a new, brighter space. The idea was to draw on the experience of a close-knit team to develop a space that was ideal for working in, and a place where colourists could explore and broaden their creative scope.

“These eclectic elements truly set the mood, creating an almost surreal atmosphere”.

DARLING DÉCOR A collection of beautiful porcelain pieces sit alongside chandeliers, rococo mirrors, a dresser, dainty armchairs, and tapestries. The ceiling features stucco decoration with mouldings procured from a former plasterer in Eastern France. The salon also features a photo box, which takes centre stage in the entrance. These carefully selected yet eclectic elements truly set the mood, creating an almost surreal atmosphere.

A PARISIAN JOURNEY

The salon features stone walls, metal beams and furniture covered in weathered white. In addition to the shampoo station area, you’ll find an exclusive booth designed for l’Atelier Blanc’s signature treatments, a VIP boudoir, a studio and a room specially reserved for men. You’ll also find the colour box, where, in keeping with the alchemist theme, colourists create new shades for their clientele in transparent test tubes, with a charmingly scientific feel.

L’Atelier Blanc has teamed up with Les Capettes de Paris to design an entire collection of lace wide-brimmed hats, frills and bibs instead of traditional hairdressing gowns – you’ll be tempted to take them home with you! As far as signature treatments go though, this one definitely has our attention. Your locks will be handled by a team working as a perfect pair, one on the right one on the left. The four hands ensure an identical sitting time for each side, and therefore a perfectly uniform result.

HAIR POTIONS Fresh out of the lab, you’ll find exclusive basics, including shampoos, conditioners and haircare products. Formulated using cutting-edge, paraben-free biotechnology and containing the bare minimum of silicones, they allow clients to prolong their hair honeymoon outside of the salon. A touch of magic in this whimsical setting. www.latelierblanc.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY Tania & Vincent

SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE


Hair | FEATURE

Cool Girl Hair It’s impossible to define but when you see it you know you love it. Bed head, buzz cut, bangs or the original Blondie look - it’s out there and Anne O’Brien knows we’re going to get it!


Beauty | PROFILE

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o now we have a name for it. Its official – Cool Girl Hair (CGH) is a style with no guidelines as to what the style is. Why didn’t we think of it earlier? The phrase is so encompassing. It is liberating because my CGH is not yours, but who really cares because that’s cool as well. Unlike other styles it has no boundaries, is effortlessly simple to do (supposedly) and is so on-trend it hurts. CGH sends a message out there that contains a word we don’t usually put in print. We love it for its individuality, diversity and general anarchy, however it does pose some problems for editorial content. For example, we had discussions over what image we would actually select for this feature and it probably caused an even bigger debate than the braids or plaits discussions (I know, our lives are full). Acid punk was first off the block, then came Kate Moss wabi – sabi (imperfect perfection), a Cara buzz was right up there, as was Solange’s fro but ultimately the thick, flowing tresses with a smouldering look made it onto the page. Was it my Cool Girl Hair – of course! Does mine look anything like it? Of course not. But with the help of some of the team’s favourite products who knows? One thing I do know is that it is every stylist’s dream for a client to ask for a CGH because it actually means anything you want it to be, and in turn, generates a whole new opportunity for creative colouring and styling - and that is cool.

1. Redken Diamond Oil Glow Dry Gloss Scrub 2. Fudge Salt Spray 3. Moroccanoil Dry Shampoo – Dark Hair Tones 4. Sebastian Professional Sublimate Invisible Finishing Crème 5. KEVIN.MURPHY MOTION.LOTION 6. KMS Add Volume Liquid Dust 7. EVO Salty Dog Salt Spray HEADWAY.NET.NZ 22


Hair | PROFILE

COLOUR CUE De Lorenzo Novacolor Ambassador, Maz Azorakos from top Australian salon Sogo, shares her favourite colour mixes, products and inspirations

What inspired you to become a hairdresser, and to specialise in colour? I fell into hairdressing

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due to my family relocating to Greece temporarily when I was 16. I decided learning a trade would be the best option for me at the time. I’ve always loved cooking and colour is a lot like cooking. I love being a little alchemist/chemist; always striving to get the best results by mixing formulations that enhance a client’s features and that are true to their hair’s abilities.

Which colours are you enjoying creating for clients right now? Each client is different, so I like to personalise colour; whether it be foilage (a combination of foils and balayage) and/or painting in lights and shadows that enhance a client’s personality and hair.


ONE STOP SHOP FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSERS

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WE ARE IN YOUR AREA! What do you see as being the big colour trends for spring/summer? Spring /summer is always about lightening up and letting go of depth; painting in lightness and using fun combination tones. Whether they are enriched pastels or nude glosses, it’s all about that client’s individual hair evolution.

What are you most impressed by when using De Lorenzo Novacolor and why did you choose to work with this brand? De Lorenzo Novacolor is true to swatch colour and really gentle on skin; certified organic, vegan and no animal testing. I have never had skin irritations since using De Lorenzo products. De Lorenzo’s core value philosophy incorporates moisture and protein, whilst ensuring the pH of the hair is balanced. This is vital to the structural integrity of hair maintaining condition and shine.

PHOTOGRAPHY De Lorenzo A/W 17 Novacolor Collection & Urbane Rebel Collection

Do you have a special Novacolor mix you can share with us? There’s so many to choose from because the Novacolor range is extensive and exciting. What’s really good is that you can mix Rw8 and T9. The combination of the Rosewood and Titian produces a rose gold hue. Upkeep of this colour is easy just by supporting it with Novafusion Rosewood Colour Shampoo. On a cooler note, just by adding a dot of c1 (blue black at level 1 base) and sticking to a level 8, creates a matte smoky grey.

Must-have styling products and tools? De Lorenzo Extinguish for heat protection, and I love De Lorenzo Sandstorm. It’s the best texture spray ever and great for prepping and layering when heat styling with tongs and straighteners. You get fantastic results even by scrunching it into hair. The Ends is a weightless hair sealer that leaves hair feeling luxuriously smooth and shiny. De Lorenzo’s extensive range of products are all specific to solving problems of hair and scalp so there’s too many to choose favourites from.

Which hairdressers inspire you? So many! The X-presion boys, Justin Pace, the team from Chumba, the Fox and the Hair team, Guido Palau, Trevor Sorbie and Eugene Souleiman to name a few.

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given when it comes to hair colour? It’s like driving a car. You have to know where you’re at in order to know where you are going. Plus, always refer to your colour wheel - it takes out the guessing game.

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ALL YOU NEED IS HAIR www.cssonline.co.nz


Hair | INTERNATIONAL

EMOTIONS

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Angelo Seminara in collaboration with Great Lengths, using Davines PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew O’Toole MAKEUP: Daniel Kolaric STYLIST: Niccolò Torelli HAIR ASSISTANT: Yoko Setoyama


Hair | INTERNATIONAL


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Hair | INTERNATIONAL

INSPIRATION Shot on location in Iceland, visionary Angelo Seminara has set the bar high, revealing new and inspiring perspectives with ‘Emotions’, in which luxury and the power of nature unite. Angelo highlights the variety of looks that can be achieved using Great Lengths; this collection of bold looks shows off Angelo’s talent in colour, style, volume, texture and length.


Hair | FOCUS

Business Excellence

Gain a better understanding of your business and showcase your salon’s success by entering the 2017 Kitomba NZARH Business Awards @

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itomba and NZARH are excited to announce that entries for the 2017 Business Awards are now open. The Kitomba NZARH Business Awards started twelve years ago in a small room on Waiheke Island. A group of 30 salon owners came together to celebrate the first awards ceremony and build a culture of recognising and celebrating business excellence in the New Zealand hairdressing industry. Now seen as the leading national distinction that recognises top performing salons, the Business Awards have come a long way. With new awards, more competition, incredible entries and a lot of celebrating, the awards are an exciting part of the industry year.

Four reasons to enter Understand your business The Business Awards are known to help entrants gain a better understanding of their salons as a business. Many previous entrants and winners have said the process of entering alone is worth it. “Actually sitting down and writing your entry allows you to dissect your business and look at it with a magnifying glass. Now I really know where my business stands and how well I’m performing,” said Jacqui Victor of True Grit, the 2016 Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year.

Recognise your success

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Hairdressing & Extensions, the 2014 Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year, commented; “Entering the Kitomba Business Awards is one of the most empowering, positive and emotionally fulfilling things that I have ever experienced”.

See where you can improve Putting your salon out there is a great way to improve your business, your reputation and next year’s results. There’s real value in seeing where you have the potential to do better and to become even more successful. Entering the Business Awards gives you the opportunity to stop, reflect on where you are, and identify which areas you should work on. From there you can refocus and motivate your team to make those improvements and be the best you can be. Protege Hair, the 2015 Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year experienced just that. "The process of entering the awards is a great way to really examine your systems, procedures and practices, and identify areas that really work for you, and areas that may have opportunities for growth or change,” said owners, Tiffiny Spencer and Kate Watson.

“Entering is one of the most empowering, positive and emotionally fulfilling things I’ve ever experienced”

Taking the time to celebrate what you do well is important. Tell your team what their strengths are and celebrate your business success to maintain the motivation to keep it up. There are some incredible businesses out there, and the Kitomba NZARH Business Awards are here to recognise and reward them. For our previous winners, the recognition of their success and confidence gained is invaluable. Kristal Sargent of La Villa

KITOMBA

Reach for your goals

Having clear goals and a plan for how to reach them is extremely important for any successful salon. If you haven’t taken the time to write down all you’ve achieved, and where you want to get to next, the Business Awards is a great excuse to do it. Kristal Sargent said that she entered the awards to “gauge where my business stood within our industry, and to push myself to grow and achieve the very best that I could for my brand. Opening yourself up to scrutiny and being compared to your peers is both uplifting and challenging at the same time. This is a healthy thing to do if you want a true reflection of your business, and a reason to push for success.”


Protège Hair Design

True Grit

Tips for entering It can be a little daunting entering the Business Awards for the first time. Here’s some of our top tips to help you put together a winning entry.

Focus on results: Judges want to see how your initiatives have performed, not just what they were. Find a way to weave your results through all parts of your entry. Think costs and return on investment. Let the figures communicate a great job done! Use your creativity: You know your brand better than anyone, and it’s great when an entry really gives the judges a sense of your personality, style and who you are.

Keep it brief: Use simple language to tell your story and keep it concise. Focus only on the key things you know matter in order to best answer the questions. Use testimonials: Ask customers, suppliers and business partners to support you by sharing their stories about how your business has made a difference to them. The 2017 award categories are: • • • • • • • • • •

Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year Grand Salon of the Year Boutique Salon of the Year Employer of Choice Excellence in Marketing Fastest Growing Salon Sustainable Salon of the Year Business Stylist of the Year Best New Entrant Best Salon Design

To find out more and enter the Business Awards, visit kitomba.com/business-awards.

Jacqui Victor, True Grit 2016 Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year

kitomba.com/business-awards


Hair | PROMOTION @vivohairandbeauty

Turning Heads Vivo Hair & Beauty Salons strive for excellence in everything they do

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ivo Hair & Beauty was founded in 2010, with one salon in Auckland. Seven years on, and with a love for great hair in Vivo’s collective DNA, the company now has 53 salons throughout New Zealand. They thrive on good ideas, appreciate elegance, innovative style, and top-class service. It’s easy to see how Vivo has become the go-to place for over 55,000 returning customers across New Zealand, and are now known as the biggest hair service provider in New Zealand. The beauty and confidence-giving quality of gorgeous hair is well-known, and perhaps the biggest highlight of the year was Vivo’s Best Hair Salon Award at the NZ Bauer Best in Beauty Awards. A remarkable achievement for Vivo, who invest a huge amount of time and energy into training their stylists, to give clients the high-quality, life-changing experience they are looking for. In hand with this was another milestone; the I AM VIVO campaign that transformed Vivo into more than just a hair and beauty service provider. Vivo evolved into something more powerful, through inspiration from the work of Vivo team members, who daily present and display their work through the smiles of thousands of returning customers. Vivo are a friend, a counsellor, and sometimes a life-changer. The story is so much more than just hair. Vivo is the people who truly excel at what they do, because they turn up every day with passion, with love. That is the essence of Vivo. When you come out with a Vivo look, your whole world changes, you’re transformed and that’s what Vivo’s story is; "when you feel amazing, so do we".

VIVO PROVIDE AN EDUCATION PLATFORM FOR THEIR STYLISTS Nearly 350 hair and beauty leaders call Vivo home. What makes them stand out? Among many reasons, a national training programme that anchors a winning formula for both stylists and clients. The Vivo training programme is designed to help stylists propel their career forward, with targeted seminars and workshops all year round. Vivo’s commitment to continuous education for hairstylists means that every stylist now has the chance to grow and become the best they can be. The valuable skills the seminars offer is available not only to Vivo stylists, but to any stylist who wishes to attend. Typically, each training seminar is a full day in the salon. Vivo's training seminars are held in Vivo salons throughout New Zealand and are free to all Vivo staff. For those who are not part of the Vivo group, you may attend up to 3 training sessions per year, free of charge. Attendees are responsible for bringing their own equipment, including mannequins as required. Vivo can supply mannequins at a cost of $90. A minimum of 1 year’s apprentice experience is required for all colour courses. 3 years apprentice experience is required for all cutting courses. If you are not a Vivo stylist, but would like to know more about Vivo Training Seminars, please visit vivosalon.co.nz/career/training-seminars

“They thrive on good ideas, appreciate elegance, innovative style, and top-class service”

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Hair | INTERNATIONAL

Be Yourself HAIR DIRECTOR: Kevin Murphy PHOTOGRAPHER: Luis Murphy HAIR ASSISTANTS: Nathan Gorman, Wade Blackford, Massimo Morello, James Nicholson, Lucy Iasenzaniro MAKEUP: Kenneth Higgins STYLIST: Emily Ward


Hair | INTERNATIONAL

INSPIRATION With a message of inclusion, diversity and acceptance, Kevin Murphy makes a bold statement with ‘Be Yourself’, encouraging men to embrace and explore their individuality. With a firm belief hair that fits a man’s personality is his best accessory, Murphy emphasizes this argument by reinventing classic men’s cuts using progressive cutting techniques, paired with the perfect styling products to create a series of unique looks.


Hair | INTERNATIONAL


Hair | NEW PRODUCTS

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This medium-hold shaping gel restores colour to grey hair, for a soft, shiny finish that washes out with ease. phb.net.nz 4 ELEVEN STYLING CREAM

A pliable medium-hold styler to create shape with natural shine, and packed with carnauba wax for nourishment. crewdistributors.co.nz 5 DEAR BARBER SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER

This duo increases natural volume and flexibility, freshening both hair shaft and scalp, reducing static and improving condition. southernsalonsupplies.co.nz

Barber Shop New top shelf seasonal picks for the boys 1

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Hair | PROFILE

Creative Head Premier Institute of Education Artistic Director, Nicci Higgs, shares her passion for teaching

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Premier’s latest collection

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Why did you choose hairdressing as a career and how long have you been in the industry? I was inspired at a very young age by both my grandmother and mother, who were hairdressers in the UK, and all the glamour, skill and creativity that was forever changing in the hair and fashion world. I have been in the industry for 34 years and just love what I do!

What do you enjoy most about your role as Artistic Director at Premier, and what does your job entail? The thing I enjoy and love about my role is the freedom to express myself as an individual, but also to create a story with our collections and really be leaders, rather than creating the same as others. I am privileged to have an Artistic Team - photographer Richard Wood, makeup artist Michelle Clarke, and designer Karina Blogg - who are as passionate and motivated as myself, and believe in the work that we are doing. The role entails very precise planning and having a clear vision, so that the collections are different and the themes are completely new and exciting.

What kind of opportunities does Premier Institute of Education offer their hairdressing students that are unique? At Premier, there is a very professional, holistic philosophy which allows the stylist to truly evolve and develop into a highly-skilled stylist. As Artistic Director, I’ve developed exciting Premier Annual Competition events that reflect the skill level of all programmes we run, as well as participating in the Regional Competitions. We focus on providing photographic opportunities for our stylists to really motivate and inspire their creative individual style, and to build confidence, which all comes into play when they are in the industry. We provide intense coaching support and use their work to build a professional portfolio to utilise in-industry.

What inspires you most about working with up-and-coming hairdressers? EVERYTHING! It is always an honour to be part of their journey and to watch them evolve and grow to live their dream. stylist is for them to be able to listen and hear what clients/others are actually saying, and using methods for them to become a great listener and communicator. The other aspect would be work ethic and time management, and as we operate as a commercial salon, this gives them really good grounding. The rest is easy!

What are your must-have products for the winter season? An amazing colour-care programme for my clients, to save those colours from fading and becoming dull and lifeless. Happiness is a great colour that lasts.

What would you most like the students to remember you for? Mmm, that’s a hard one. Probably the thing I would like them to remember me for would be my positive and caring approach to their learning and work ethic (I’m a General on the shop floor ha ha). pie.ac.nz 92 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

What are the most difficult aspects of hairdressing to teach? I think the most difficult aspect to teach a


PHB IS DELIGHTED TO ANNOUNCE THAT WE ARE NOW THE EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR OF PAUL MITCHELL IN NZ. For more information please contact Professional Hair Brands on 0800 652 570 or sales@phb.net.nz

Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz


Hair | PROFILE

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Inspirations and musings from a slice of eclectic cool on Wellington’s most animated street

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Vintage Vibrance

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fter outgrowing its vibrant premises in Newton in 2011, The Powder Room made its move to Wellington’s iconic Cuba Street. Owner Lisa Ussher shares with us her vision of adding a touch of fun to the industry.

someone walk out of the salon with their head held high, ready to take on the world, and I get to change up the displays in the salon whenever I want.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE HAIR TRENDS FOR WINTER AND SPRING?

A John Waters film mixed with Nana’s house (she was a hairdresser with a fluffy pink bathroom).

In the salon, we get to do lots of vibrant colours so I’m loving that they are not getting faded by the sun. Rose-gold requests are slowly getting overtaken by a dirty violet/pink tone, and our shag haircuts are getting longer, perfect for poking out through woolly hats. But my all-time favourite is that fringes are popping up again.

TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR LOCATION.

BEST WINTER HAIR TIP?

We are located on the BEST street in Wellington, Cuba Street. Our building was saved from being demolished and got a 21st century makeover about six years ago. Over time, it has had many lives; the last being a house and a junk shop (a particularly good one) and now we occupy every square inch. We have two basin rooms, an upstairs cutting and colouring room, a nice busy loud room downstairs, and a sunny courtyard!

EVO Water Killer Dry Shampoo is my favourite (a two-in-one dry shampoo and styling spray) so I can stay toasty in bed for an extra 30 minutes in the morning. I also love EVO Happy Campers Leave-In Moisturiser, for boosting hydration in the mid-lengths and ends.

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO GO SUSTAINABLE?

I am absolutely obsessed with EVO Mane Tamer. The EVO Lockdown Smoothing Treatment is the most transforming product I have ever used and it smells amazing with its Tom Ford fragrance. Clients who might normally have a Keratin smoothing treatment are now able to create the same smooth results at home, without the long process time.

WHAT IS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR YOUR SALON’S LOOK?

When we first opened 12 years ago, we wanted to create something really different, so we spent a lot of time creating the fit-out ourselves using upcycled materials. When it came to choosing suppliers, we looked for companies that were ethical and because of this, we attracted a like-minded clientele. We love that we get to work with beautiful products, and the health of our stylists and the planet is not to be compromised.

WHAT IS THE ONE HAIR TOOL/PRODUCT YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT?

Lisa’sWinter Picks

Inspired, conscious, fun, cosy, colourful, energetic, vintage, kind, inclusive and eclectic.

CAREER HIGH TO DATE? Going to World Wide Hair Tour in Paris still sits up there with the highlights.

WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF YOUR JOB? Making people feel great. It makes my day to see 94 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

I love EVO so much; we have used EVO since it arrived in New Zealand, which was probably about eight years ago. It does exactly what it says it’s going to do and they have really nailed the marketing; it’s cheeky and super-smart. Clients crack up when they read the bottles and Evo Fabuloso Pro is actually the best thing since sliced bread. We offer a bespoke service with our colour conditioners and it too is amazing; our clients return with tones we actually want to see in their hair. We stock the EVO brush range and they fly out the door! For your nearest Evo salon, or for more information visit evohair.com

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DESCRIBE THE POWDER ROOM IN 10 WORDS.

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE EVO FOR YOUR SALON?


Hair | FOCUS

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Up-And-Coming A new collection from Servilles Academy celebrates the students and their creative aspirations

ervilles Academy has expanded their qualification portfolio, adding makeup, barbering and retail programmes to their successful hairdressing qualification sector. As a multi-dimensional leader of training in the fashion and beauty industries, the inclusion of makeup courses was a logical step for Servilles Academy, recognising the relationship between makeup artistry and hairdressing, and the career benefits of having both skillsets for a creative, inspiring career. This sparked the need for a new campaign, produced by the Academy, for the Academy, representing the Academy. Teaching and nurturing the creative growth of the future, it was logical to get the students on board. Students applied submitting why they wanted to be a part of the campaign, what they would bring to it, and what it should embody. Jenny Church (Salon Support Level 3) and Chloe McKnight (Level 4) were the successful applicants. Their involvement included everything from attending meetings with models, creating new hair looks, and being there on the day assisting with the entire process. With models chosen to represent the current student body, the rest of the looks were designed by the Servilles Academy Creative Team, consisting of tutors Arama French, Erin Dougherty, Katy Hammacott and Kellie Taylor. Tutor Alison Brill created the makeup design, along with a team of Smashbox Pro Artists; the makeup course offered by Servilles Academy being in collaboration with Smashbox Cosmetics. The campaign features a group of cool, fun and stylish, yet approachable individuals, so that students could relate to them but also aspire to create the looks showcased. With the need to embody a younger vibe, Servilles Academy teamed with upand-coming photographer, Sarah Burgess, who captured the atmosphere perfectly. The campaign was a huge success: the student body loved the work produced, while the students involved deemed the overall experience ‘amazing’. The resulting collection is a great representation of the new Servilles Academy and all it has to offer. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 95


THE CUT A fashion forward inspired space with clean lines, gentle curves and touch me textures, while offering services for the price of lunch.

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ur latest space crush, The Cut, located in Auckland, blends a mix of panelling, textures and tones, all inspired by the fashion that surrounds them inside the shopping mall. The very current colour pallet of green, nude, terracotta and black were chosen to reflect the latest fashion tones seen on the runway. While feeling rich, textural and beautifully composed, The Cut philosophy is simple; inexpensive haircuts. With a no appointment policy, come in and choose a service. Simple. Creative instigator Hamilton Brooks brings his 17 years of experience from top salons in London and New Zealand and introduces the ‘Inexpensive Chic’ experience in his hair salon. The challenge was to create a space that gives the aura of luxury and sophistication while

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Hair | PROMOTION

“We chose Comfortel as they suited the aesthetic of our salon design as well as being highly functional in a busy environment. We wanted to create a fresh, boutique space that felt welcoming, whilst keeping with a modern look and a bit of colour thrown in” - Hamilton Brooks

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

Salon Owner: Hamilton Brooks, Frana Evans & Hunter Dolan | Interior Design: Janice Kumar-Ward of JKW Interior Architecture and Design Ltd | Salon Furniture: Comfortel Furniture | Cabinetry: Mr & Mrs Ward Bespoke Limited | Photography: Duncan Innes

using hard wearing surfaces that are needed for a high paced salon. The look of Herringbone parquetry flooring combined with Formica cabinetry provides the illusion of the luxe look, while standing the test of time. Pale green panelling brings calm and lightness to the room, offset by the sleek black cabinetry and furniture. Comfortel was their first choice when selecting their furniture. The slim line curves and sophisticated silhouette of the Zara Styling Chair was chosen to compliment the design. The addition of the matte black hydraulic base updated the look to match the salon aesthetic. The Stella Washlounge was chosen for the wash area for its symmetrical silhouette. All we can say… it definitely makes our cut. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 97


Hair | FOCUS

Aiming High

It wasn’t just creative muscles the Rodney Wayne Artistic team were flexing on their recent Bootcamp. Richard Kavanagh fills us in

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ach February, the Rodney Wayne Artistic Team gets together in Auckland for a 3-day intensive training program. Named ‘Bootcamp’, the team are put through their paces with early starts, physical rigours and long hours. It’s a tough three days of personal and professional growth, that sets up the team to blast into their leadership role for the year, inspiring and teaching 600 staff across the country. The responsibility of being part of this group means everyone makes a commitment to lead by example. That means continuing to grow and improve their skills and performance in the salon, while also becoming better teachers, coaches, mentors and public speakers. Bootcamp 2017 begins by welcoming new members and getting to know each other at the best yum cha in the southern hemisphere, Grand Harbour. 98 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

The new members are introduced to the code of honour and what’s expected from them, and with full bellies, we head to the Rodney Wayne Support Office and Technical Centre to start training. Day one consists of facilitation and public speaking skills; structuring a presentation, connecting with your audience, creating a great learning environment, and simple methods on keeping things concise, so information can be received and retained more effectively. Each day has a mystery activity. On day one, it’s a visit to Lee Gar City Kickboxing for a lesson in Muay Thai from renowned fighter/trainer Richie Hardcore. Richie’s teaching style reinforces some of the methods the team have been learning; pushing them to learn new skills, and to love physical fitness. For anyone aspiring to a high level of success, looking after yourself is imperative; personal growth and wellbeing is a vital component of


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IMAGES: TOP LEFT - HAIR: Richard Kavanagh, using ghd. PHOTOGRAPHY: David Mannah. TOP RIGHT HAIR: Richard Kavanagh. PHOTOGRAPHER: Simon Lekias. MAKEUP: Peter Beard. FASHION EDITOR: Nadene Duncan

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being part of this team. A group dinner gives us the chance to reflect and after a full day, everybody is ready for an early night. We meet at 7am in Victoria Park and join Richie Hardcore and his running group for a jog around the park, before learning some unique animal-based exercise movements which the guys can adapt to form a 20 minute, full-body workout that can be performed anywhere. We’re buzzing from building some new neural pathways, which reinforce the idea that when you do something hard, you end up feeling AWESOME! Day two, the team are given briefs to interpret. First, they are asked to design a look for an international designer showing at New Zealand Fashion Week; one hour to complete a high-fashion look specific to that designer’s aesthetic. They each present their finished look, concept and ideas to the group. Each member of the team gets to practice their coaching and feedback skills, by reviewing the presentation and offering ways in which the artist could grow. For their second Mad Skillz demo, they’re tasked to makeover a celebrity client for an international designer campaign, with the proviso that her new haircut will still work for an upcoming movie project. Again, they are given one hour to complete the task before presenting back to the group and receiving feedback on their presentations. The third brief is to reimagine a gender-fluid haircut for an actor in a theatre play; it has to portray a certain character but also be commercially viable, reflecting a look that a salon client could wear. Again, they are given an hour to complete the task and present their looks back. Each exercise is performed on mannequins, allowing for complete creative freedom. However, their final task is to present a total look on a model they have pre-prepared. There’s an amazing array of creativity on display, and the diversity of talent and taste really shines. Day three sees the guys building on their kickboxing skills with Richie Hardcore and getting a sweat on to start the day. Today is full of goal-setting exercises, lesson planning, tips and techniques to shine on stage, and getting together in groups to review what they’ve learned. Each week, as the team connect through a private facebook page for inspiration, the skills they have developed slowly cement, as they develop into the leaders they were destined to be. There are many opportunities throughout the year; from running national seminars, to shooting magazine fashion editorials, and beauty brand advertising; fashion weeks in NZ, Sydney and New York and presenting in NZ and overseas to hairdressers and consumers. Being part of the biggest and best salon group in NZ means there’s always something new and cutting-edge for them to discover. As their creative director, it’s a real privilege for me to share with them a little of my world, impart some skills, and more importantly, help them discover the best versions of themselves in the hair world.

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After more than 40 years, DECLÉOR continues to lead with its visionary approach to beauty, as the trusted expert and innovator in aromatherapy skincare. Combining nature’s purest and most potent active ingredients, DECLÉOR scientifically selects and masterfully blends premium Essential Oils to deliver targeted and proven skincare solutions. Understanding that beauty and well-being are intrinsically linked, DECLÉOR offers a unique sensorial experience that enhances the skin’s natural health and radiance. Each treatment is designed to visibly improve the skin's radiance while at the same time creating a unique sensory experience. This explains why DECLÉOR is a brand trusted by the best beauty professionals.


Beauty | SPA FEATURE

kes you on a journey of striking a t h g n i S n Prepare your senses...as Sharlee tranq uility in J ohannesburg, South Afri ca.


and Spa. s a l l i V Saxon Spa at Saxon


Beauty | SPA FEATURE

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tep into the enchanting Saxon Spa, an oasis nestled in unique surroundings at the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, situated on ten acres of magnificent indigenous gardens at the heart of the City of Gold. Designed by internationally-acclaimed interior designer, Stephen Falcke, the 700sqm two floor spa offers guests a serene escape from the stresses of the modern world.

NATURAL ELEMENTS Central to The Saxon Spa journey is the healing properties of salt, with each treatment room ionised by a locally handcrafted Himalayan salt and recycled glass chandelier. Created by a local conservation project, the chandelier actively purifies the air, stimulates circulation and increases energy levels. Historically known as a healing metal for the body and spirit, copper is a key design element. Copper has been used for thousands of years to heal sore joints and to boost energy levels. Water also plays a key role in creating a tranquil atmosphere in the Spa, from the hydro facilities to its flowing sound.

LUXURY AWAITS The spa uses internationally renowned La Prairie, QMS, Elemis and Harnn body oils, and features a total of eleven treatment rooms; including an all-glass couple’s treatment room, manicure and pedicure areas, hair spa, sleep zone, spa dining area, organic juice bar, steam room, heated hydro pool, wet treatment zone, hammam centre, heated outdoor plunge pool, sauna and an outdoor treatment zone.

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“You will find yourself enveloped in the uplifting aromas of the Saxon Spa’s signature scent.” HOLISTIC DISCIPLINES Their crème de la crème Saxon Himalayan Signature Journey (90 minutes) indulges you in a Himalayan salt scrub, followed by a stress-dissolving hot granite stone and soothing cool rose quartz massage. From the healing cleansing of the Hammam, to therapeutic vibrations of Sound Therapy, to the stress-relieving Rasul Spa Ritual, these tailored therapies are a unique collection of rejuvenation remedies.

SENSES OF WELLNESS Throughout your spa journey, you will find yourself enveloped in the uplifting aromas of the Saxon Spa’s signature scent. Created for holistic sensory revitalisation, the scent blends therapeutic notes include Rosemary, Jasmine Petals and Pomegranate Blossoms, compressed into a soy disc and gifted to every client to remind them of their luxury experience long after they leave.

BESPOKE CHARM Although the spa is located in a hotel, 90 percent of its clientele are local. The conversion from one-timers to regulars is managed through exceptional customer care & through direct contact says Saxon Spa Manager Tanya Copes. “Saxon guests are quite particular about how they prefer to receive ongoing communication, and our team make a concerted effort to ensure it’s both personalised and tailored”. This bespoke relationship management adds to the enchantment of the Saxon.

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

saxon.co.za

Learn more about Sound Therapy in our feature on page 118


Joyce Blok Super Serum Hydrate | Rejuvenate | Repair With a silky gel texture, the Super Serum is enriched with next-generation peptides, antioxidants and moisture enhancers to help reverse the effects of environmental damage and enhance the appearance of the skin. This paraben-free serum acts to smooth, firm and re-densify the face, neck and décolleté, revealing a more radiant healthy complexion.

For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on:

T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz


Extra Extra

Decléor’s aroma range is renowned for its natural, luxurious products with a focus on skin, body & mind. To celebrate winter they are releasing their limited edition bonus sized 400ml Aroma Cleanse Essential Cleansing Milk and Tonifying Lotion, both at a very special price. This light cleanser with Decléor’s signature scent, and the ph level re-balancing toner allow for skin that truly is fresher. A lovely way to pick up that cleansing and toning game and achieve a healthy winter glow this season. decleor.co.nz

Beauty news By SHARLEEN SINGH

KISS, KISS The weather may be getting cooler, but the latest from Jane Iredale will have your pout heating it up a notch. Introducing three new gorgeous gloss shades for winter that you’ll want to add to your collection: Hot Cider, Martini and Pink Lady. And did we mention that these vegan-friendly gloss shades are transitioning to a new lemony flavour? Beautiful. psb.net.nz

POWER DUO Introducing the latest advances from the brilliant scientists behind La Prairie, the innovative new Line Interception Power Duo. This thrilling development is described as a total wrinkle intervention, and includes a day cream and night cream in one. Working tirelessly day and night for a lineless future after just 14 days. Duo chambers separate the two textures, leaving your skin smooth, de-lined and relaxed. Two exciting fountains of youth in one sleek product. laprairie.com.au


CHANNEL YOUR INNER AUDREY

The Big Ten This season Joyce Blok celebrate the 10th Birthday of their iconic Alpha-Beta Radiance range. Birthday celebrations kick off with a fresh new look. The new packaging features one of their key ingredients, malic acid, in the form of an apple. These high-performing products offer a complete solution in a season where exfoliation is so key. We’re thrilled to be able to say happy birthday to this fab range; you don’t look a day over nine! joyceblok.co.nz

Show off those picture perfect mani’s this winter with Faby’s new Posh Collection. Inspired by timeless style icons such as Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn. This new range features twelve rich and lustrous shades that are every bit as stylish as the women who influenced them. Nails with a hint of elegance and a touch of ageless class – swoon. probeauty. co.nz

Lash Envy

WOW FACTOR Elizabeth Arden PRO leads the way with their Luxury Skin Health Facial, a 75 minute treatment of pure indulgence and visible results. Providing age-defying benefits and visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles, and improving elasticity and tone, you’ll find yourself sporting a brighter, more radiant complexion. An indulgent facial and extraordinary results all in one? Yes please! selfcare.co.nz

The experts at Glo Minerals embrace winter glam with two new additions for two desired looks. Their new Volumizing Mascara offers fuller, flawless lashes with its conditioning, clump-free formula. While their Lash Lengthening Mascara with a pure pigment, provides nutrients and colour for lush, longer lashes. Whatever your pick (why not both!), it’s safe to say there’s one for every occasion. selfcare.co.nz

A CLOSER SHAVE The latest from cool kids American Crew Shaving Skincare range include their new Moisturising Shave Cream. Perfect for normal to dry skin types, this non-foaming cream creates a handy protective barrier, ensuring the razor glides without drying the skin. Plus with added emollients providing protection and conditioning, you can quite happily say goodbye to razor burn. crewdistributors.co.nz

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SCANDI CHIC You don’t often put trendy and trolleys in the same sentence, but the stylish team at Comfortel really have thought ahead with their new Scandinavian inspired Beauty Trolleys. This salon and spa staple holds all our essentials, but how often have we thought about how they look and fit in our space? With a minimalist aesthetic and curved lines, drawing inspo from the oh-so-in Scandi look, these trolleys are a must-have. comfortel.co.nz

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LIGHTEN UP After hearing rave reviews about these amazing products overseas, we’re thrilled to share that Barcelona-based Mesoestetic have launched their high quality and highly effective Cosmelan range to New Zealand. Touted as a cosmetic lightening method against skin blemishes, this innovative pack includes an effective combo of professional treatments and at-home maintenance products. Discolouration be gone! advanceddermacare.co.nz

REAL GENT Introducing simplicity in male grooming, say hello to Scaramouche & Fandango. Dedicated to delivering high performance body and skincare products communicated in a simple and straightforward way, this no-fuss range features a wide variety of products, including an award-winning Shave Cream and moisturising Hydrator. A range with substance, ambition and wisdom – men, look no further. houseofcamille.com

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MUST BE LOVE For a product that will add a smile on your dial try The Raspberry Kiss Body Scrub, new from Treaclemoon. This vegetarian and vegan friendly range continues to delight with a beautiful raspberry scent that’ll leave your skin glowing. A brand with a conscience, they’re all about caring for your skin while making you smile. P.S. don’t forget to read the description on the bottle, for a touch of love & nostalgia. dateline.co.nz


“My favourite lip is simple and simply gorgeous!’’

the GREAT GLOSS

SIMPLE BEAUTY

Soothe, restore and shine with PureGloss® Lip Gloss in 18 instantly transformative shades.

THREE NEW SHADES! Martini, Pink Lady, Hot Cider Model is wearing Rose Lip Pencil and NEW Pink Lady PureGloss.

BECOME A JANE IREDALE PARTNER TODAY | 09 636 1966 | INFO@PSB.NET.NZ | PSB.NET.NZ HYPOALLERGENIC & DERMATOLOGIST TESTED. #BEAUTYWITHBRILLIANCE


IN THE NECK OF TIME While focusing on your complexion is important, don’t forget about another tell-tale sign of ageing – your neck area. Sothys launch their exciting new Perfect V-Shape treatment, specially designed for this forgotten about zone. Featuring M3.0 peptides that boost collagen synthesis, this treatment offers dermo-lifting and dermo-refining of the neck and jawline area. For best results enjoy a series of five treatments delivered every two weeks, along with the Perfect Shape Neck Serum at home for a firmer and less slackened décolleté. despacosmetics.co.nz

BLOOMING BEAUTY

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Forever Young Ready to take youthfulness to the next level? We know we are! Environ continues to push the boundaries of skin care with a new age defying duo. Formulated for those who are accustomed to vitamin A, this dynamic duo delivers advanced levels of vitamin A & C to the skin in the form of a serum and cream. Your complexion will be enriched & protected, look younger, healthier and more resilient – all qualities we strive for, especially in the harsh cooler months. psb.net.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

After hearing about the huge success of these products and treatments in Europe, we’re thrilled that Algologie are launching their new Revitalising Marine Garden Range in New Zealand. Featuring the Algo 4 Complex; consisting of four different seaweed species, all highly concentrated in natural minerals, vitamins and proteins. A very welcome touch of marine goodness for dull, tired and devitalised skin. worldbeaute.co.nz


BOTOX PARTNER OR ALTERNATIVE. YOU CHOOSE! IMPROVES the efficacy of the injection in

PROLONGS the efficacy of the injection in

VISIBLY smoothes expression lines

of cases.*

of cases.*

satisfaction.**

87%

63%

80%

STUDY CARRIED OUT ON 30 PEOPLE WHO HAD RECEIVED A BOTULINUM TOXIN INJECTION 6 TO 10 WEEKS BEFORE THE APPLICATION OF BX WRINKLE CORRECTOR AND WHO HAD APPLIED THE PRODUCT TWICE DAILY FOR 90 DAYS . *OVERALL IMPRESSION AMONG DERMATOLOGISTS. **SELF-EVALUATION CARRIED OUT ON 30 PEOPLE.

Observational clinical test under medical dermatological control with women who have received an injection of botulinum toxin.

sothys.co.nz


Beauty | APPEAR ANCE MEDICINE

TIMELESS BEAUTY Dr Catherine Stone reveals the trends that are paving their way to a brighter skin future in cosmetic medicine.

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hat will you look and feel like in 5 years? 10 years? 50 years? We are living longer lives, and it is likely that many of our current generation will thrive with a healthy human lifespan beyond 100 years. Massive upcoming changes in technology, medicine, and cultural attitudes will make it interesting to speculate what the future may bring in terms of advances in cosmetic medicine.

WHERE IS THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY HEADED? To look to the future, we also need to revisit our history. The attitude towards and within the cosmetic industry has changed dramatically over the last 15 years: from being ‘hush-hush’, to freely spoken about, along with a move away from more invasive procedures, to less invasive injectable procedures such as Botox, fillers and Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP).

HOW HAVE ATTITUDES CHANGED IN THE INDUSTRY? Traditional attitudes in medicine have focused on treating disease, rather than preventing changes as we age. It seems that cosmetic medicine has also been affected with the perception that “I need to wait until my frown/heavy eyelids/jowls/lines/ concerns are ‘bad enough’ and then I will come in and see you”. As the medical industry evolves it is becoming clear that prevention may be more effective than waiting until the signs are visible and trying to reverse the damage that has already occurred. We now see many people starting treatments earlier, when they first start to notice their first few lines and wrinkles.

WHAT IS THE NEXT LOGICAL STEP? Prevention from a young age. While I was researching my upcoming book ‘Grow Younger And More Beautiful As You Age’, I discovered advice from cosmetic pioneer Dr Des Fernandes, that using the appropriate vitamin A and vitamin C serums from 116 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

childhood may actually significantly prevent the ageing process, as well as almost eliminating the risk of teenage acne. Dr Fernandes believes that skin ageing develops as a result of long-term vitamin A deficiency, exacerbated by our low levels of nutrition and increased level of sun exposure. Just 20 minutes of sun exposure can destroy up to 90% of our skin’s vitamin A levels. Fortunately, regular daily use of vitamin A and vitamin C serums can not only restore skin levels to normal, they may also help protect skin from sun damage when used alongside UV blocking sunscreens, allowing short periods of sun exposure which are essential for the natural production of vitamin D. There are several different types of vitamin A and vitamin C, so it is always best to get guidance from an experienced skin therapist as to the type of serum most suited for your skin. As these products are highly active when used in therapeutic doses, they can cause irritation if not used correctly for your skin type.

WHAT NEW TECHNOLOGY IS ON THE HORIZON? While we are conscious of the ageing process of our skin, it is important to consider your general health including diet, sleep, attitude and exercise in the ageing process. Promising new technology is the use of telomere support supplements to reverse cellular level DNA damage. Telomeres are the end parts of your DNA, and shortening them has been linked to the ageing process. Special supplements which stop the shortening process may play a large part in ageing prevention over the next 3-5 years. If you are serious about knowing your health future, and have a spare $25,000 USD, a visit to Health Nucleus in San Diego gives you a crystal ball in the form of a genome (DNA), microbiome and full body non-radiation MRI, alongside a standard executive health assessment. The team then liaise with your medical provider and assess lifestyle changes, supplements and treatments that allow you to extend your healthy lifespan. For more info check out healthnucleus.com.


We cannot consider the future of health without considering regenerative medicine and the role of stem cells. We are currently on the cusp of stem cell technology becoming a safe and effective mainstream treatment. Until recently, stem cells have been difficult to harvest – requiring bone marrow aspiration or large amounts of fat transfer – and often considered as being on the ‘fringe’ of medicine due to ethical concerns, especially around using stem cells from other animals or humans. Techniques are currently improving for harvesting and utilising our own stem cells (autologous stem cells) from blood or small amounts of fat aspiration, but the lack of decent studies in the regenerative medicine section of the AMWC conference I recently attended in Monaco reflects that we aren’t there yet; this is an industry in its infancy. Over the next 10 years, I believe we will see huge changes in health and appearance due to stem cells becoming more controllable and easier to harvest. Until then, Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) is a safe and effective option, especially for skin rejuvenation and hair loss. Research shows that injectable HA fillers can reverse or slow age-related decay by stimulating collagen and elastin production, strengthening the skin and providing extra support for the ‘retaining ligaments’ of the face that often stretch and slump as we age. We have seen many clients over the last 16 years who started with Botox and fillers in their 20’s and early 30’s, and who continue to look timeless as they get older.

“Promising new technology is the use of telomere support supplements to reverse cellular level DNA damage.” WHAT’S NEXT FOR COSMETIC MEDICINE?

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

Over the years motivation has changed from treating lines and wrinkles, to enhancing facial shape, contour and volume. We now recognise that cosmetic treatments have a positive impact on emotions, especially as we remove or reduce the negative signs of ageing that make us look tired, angry or stressed. As tools and attitudes for cosmetic intervention expand and develop, your future self in 5, 10, or even 50 years, may actually look and feel better than you do today. Author’s Note: I have assumed a reasonable level of understanding of cosmetic injectables. If you would like to learn more about Botox, fillers, or PRP, please visit thefaceplace.co.nz or like us on social media @thefaceplacenz The Face Place – 50 Customs St East, Britomart, Auckland Central. Phone 09 358 5860 or 0800 COSMED thefaceplace.co.nz

For more information call the team at House of Camille 0800 406 416 www.houseofcamille.co.nz


OM SUPTI NIGHT SPA RITUAL Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru The all-natural Om Supti Ritual treatment paves the way for improved sleep and peaceful dreaming. Sandie Johannessen, Senior Director of Spa at Landaa Giraavaru comments, “in a world where time is of such a premium and disturbed sleep is so commonplace, we wanted to create a night-time experience that celebrated our wilderness location, embraced our island traditions and induced a calming, dreamlike state”. This tri-fold ritual begins at 10pm, taking place in a private jungle clearing in the heart of the island. You’ll experience a deeply relaxing ‘Moondrop Therapy’ massage, subtle ‘Vishuddha Facial Therapy’ and an ‘Inner Peace’ bath. The end goal? A peaceful inner equilibrium is restored, paving the way for deeper, more refreshing slumber. fourseasons.com/maldiveslg

UNIQUELLY LUXE

Beauty | FEATURE

SOUND THERAPY Saxon Spa at Saxon Hotel, Johannesburg When you think of relaxation, silence usually comes to mind but the healing wisdom of ancient rituals combined with the modern edge of luxury products will have your body singing Sound Therapy’s praises in no time. Performed on the comfort of a heated water bed, the therapeutic sound vibrations of gongs, cymbals, Tibetan singing bowls and bells are used to restore the body’s natural energy centres. There is even an option to utilise the unique healing properties of crystals, engaging all of your senses and restoring equilibrium to your mind, body and spirit. See our Saxon Spa feature on page 103 saxon.co.za

The beauty industry is forever changing and evolving, so it’s no surprise to see wonderfully luxe treatments and trends emerging globally. Find inspiration in these extraordinary locations. By SHARLEEN SINGH

It’s a common fictional theme in pop culture, and an idea dabbled by many in sci-fi movies, but Cryogenic freezing facial treatments truly are becoming the way of the present, rather than the distant future. The CryoCure Facial (lovingly nicknamed “Frotox”) utilises a controlled beam of vaporised liquid nitrogen which is used to freeze the skin of the face, scalp and neck area. The revolutionary treatment claims to produce tightness in the skin, filling in fine lines and wrinkles as well as flushing out toxins. A very cool notion. skintologyny.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

CRYOCURE FACIAL Skintology Skin and Laser Center, New York


BLOOD TYPE THERAPY Cool Spa in Phuket, Thailand Perched high atop Cape Panwa and commanding breath-taking views of the South-eastern tip of Phuket, resides the beautiful Cool Spa, home of Blood Type Therapy. But don’t let the name fool you, this treatment won’t induce vampirerelated anxiety. Each of these treatments is specifically designed to match your blood group in order to ensure the therapy is appropriate to rebalance your body. You’ll be able to enjoy a tailored full body massage, polish & glow, or a body wrap - think of it as a sort of personality profile based entirely on your blood. coolspaphuket.com

FLOATATION THERAPY The Float Zone, Virginia Rising in popularity this year is the very tranquil Floatation Therapy. Touted as a shortcut to meditation, The Float Zone in Virginia offers individual float pods filled with about 757 litres of water and 453kgs of Epsom salts, kept at skin temperatures of 34°C. Described as a “21st century fountain of youth” by owner Dr David A. Berv, the buoyancy created by the dense solution removes the effects of gravity on the body and brings you to an experience of total weightlessness. As well as the natural skin moisturising and hair volumising effects from the Epsom salts, other benefits include reducing anxiety, improving sleep, sparking creativity, decreasing blood pressure, helping with depression, and more. Floatation may be just what we need to truly disconnect. myfloatzone.com

BLOOMING BEAUTY FROM THE SEA Introducing Algologie’s NEW Marine Garden Revitalising Range A patented formula to… PROTECT – Undaria Pinnatifida – Brown Algae OXYGENATE – Porphyridium Cruentum – Red Micro Algae NOURISH - Alpine Sea Holly STIMULATE – Sea Fennel

Suppliers of medical and professional skincare

Contains ALGO 4® complex: natural formulas, ultra-potent ingredients.

0800 33 888 3 / sales@worldbeaute.co.nz / www.worldbeaute.co.nz


@smashboxcosmeticsuk

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Where wet meets dry. This extraordinary new look is every makeup artists’ dream as it covers the whole spectrum of shimmer from subtle to subversive.

@byrdiebeauty

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OTT Hand bling Thanks to the Gucci Cruise 2018 show this year nail trends have made a radical turn to the avant garde. More became more and less was a bore – loving it. W

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‘No makeup’ makeup continues to be on trend for the rest of 2017. Flawless skin is the key to pulling it off of course. Hydrated, luminous skin is the look we’re after, and where makeup was applied, it was minimal and effortless and sometimes a little quirky – think Solange at the Gala.

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Get familiar with the incubator of beauty experts on Instagram, Pinterest and YouTube as we scout the beautysphere and let you need know what’s happening out there. Bare faced beauty, metallic mouths and more…

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Beauty | TRENDS

#guccicruise2018 @maccosmetics

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Bold is better The emphasis last season was a mermaid eye – the bold oil slick eye is what is now on trend. Not for the faint-hearted. @CAROL_MACKIE

@narsissist

@smashboxcosmeticsuk


WOULD YOU PUSH YOUR DAUGHTER OUT OF THE WAY OF A SPEEDING CAR?

OF COURSE YOU WOULD Saving the life of a loved one is something we’re genetically programmed to do. At the moment, breast cancer is an early death sentence for 1 in 9 Kiwi women. That could be your mother, wife or even your little girl, and you have the means to stop it. So why wouldn’t you? Breast Cancer Cure is New Zealand’s only not-for-profit organisation established solely to find a cure for breast cancer. We’re working with some of the best researchers and the best research programmes in the world. Now it’s your turn. We need you to reach deep into your pockets and help fund these initiatives. This is your chance to be an active part of a group that finally puts an end to the fear of breast cancer. You’ll be able to tell your children and grandchildren that you stood up, got involved, and helped create a future where breast cancer is a survivable disease. Choose to fight. Donate now at www.breastcancercure.org.nz or call 0800 227 828.


ANTI-AGEING

INNOVATIONS This season the Headway beauty team have revelled in the joy of learning about all of these exceptional anti-ageing products. Enjoy our top 12 edit combining our love of wellbeing and luxury in one.

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WelleCo Limited Edition AERIN x THE SUPER ELIXIR™

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LA PRAIRIE CELLULAR CREAM PLATINUM RARE

SOTHYS COSMECEUTIQUE BX WRINKLE CORRECTOR

Platinum is the priceless secret behind Cellular Cream Platinum Rare, which confronts signs of ageing in a new way to preserve the skins natural beauty and produce a unique radiance. Truly in a class by itself this is a skincare product to be treasured for its supreme luxury with its silken texture and the ‘soft splendour’ which endows the skin. The royalty of prestige skin care.

This serum diminishes expression lines without having to get injections – absolute saviour for those with a fear of needles! This revolutionary product will take the pain out of beauty and restore skin to a youthful finish. With a dose of dermo-relaxing peptides, skin will become smoother, more relaxed and rejuvenated.

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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

Beauty and Body join forces to create this beautiful handmade, gold ceramic caddy filled with 600g of Alkalising Formula. THE SUPER ELIXIR™ Alkalising Formula is a game changing multivitamin. Free from synthetic ingredients, this formula is made using premium, cold pressed bio-live ingredients so the body can easily recognise and use every nutrient. Functioning as both a wonderful supplement for your health and a sophisticated object for your home the Gold Caddy is a powerful addition to the WelleCo family of premium organic, wholefood supplements and wellness products. Vegan friendly and gluten free, our number one anti-ageing pick from the team without a doubt.


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JOYCE BLOK SUPER SERUM Described as the most highperformance product Joyce Blok have ever created, it’s easy to see why this award-winning serum continues to make waves on the beauty scene. Formulated by one of Australasia’s most notable cosmetic chemists, it offers continuous protection and nourishment whilst promoting collagen synthesis. You’ll be left with smoother, suppler skin they don’t call it super for nothing.

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ENVIRON AVANCE DFP312 CREAM

This cream features an incredible complex of uniquely blended super smart ingredients that work in synergy, not only with each other, but also with the skin, to help actively defy age. After years of intensive research Environ has selected the following key Tri-peptide powerhouses: Matrixyl 3000®, Trylagen® and Matrixyl® Synthé® 6, along with squalene, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E for this extraordinary product.

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MESOESTETIC COLLAGEN 360 INTENSIVE CREAM

A new range out of Spain, a cosmeceutical line with high concentrations of enriched marine collagen, which has been formulated to reverse the chronological collagen loss. This in turn improves skin elasticity thanks to its redensifying, firming, and tightening action. We say ‘lo amamos’!

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FLEUR DE MER VITAMIN A SERUM

This serum has been proven to improve the appearance of wrinkles as well as acne – an excellent combination for those with adult blemishes. The Vitamin A helps skin renew itself and the lactic & salicylic acids gently exfoliate skin so as to ensure more rapid and deeper penetration for a perfect complexion.

LA BIOSTHETIQUE CRÈME DE JOUR

For a tightening anti-ageing day cream that targets the skin’s biorhythm, look no further. The combination of firming and highly effective active ingredients promotes an intensive anti-ageing effect. The face contour is visibly and noticeably tightened. After just four weeks skin thickness and firmness are improved by up to 72 percent, resulting in a youthfully fresh glow. A very wise investment.

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KATHERINE DANIELS MULTI-TASKING EYE BALM The eye area is one of the first to show signs of ageing. This multi-tasking melt in balm brings a soft, smooth finish to the delicate eye area. An extra fine and silky texture cushions the area without feeling greasy. Whilst key active ingredients bring radiance and lift eyelids, they also work against puffiness, dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles.

11 O’COSMEDIC PURE AGE DEFIANCE SERUM What a name - A defiant serum! Super concentrated doses of pure L-Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3 and a 100% natural skin-tightener make this topical skin filler a potent youth accelerator. Encapsulated multi vitamins and V8 Peptide Complex helps to decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin hydrated and radiant.

MEDIK8 EYELIFT

Your eyes should reveal a lot but not your age. This highperformance eye gel fights the signs of skin ageing with an award-winning formulation featuring new and stronger actives. The light texture absorbs quickly and is perfect for those who are sensitive to retinol formulations. You’ll see improved skin firmness as the formula hydrates and deeply nourishes skin overnight – we can see why it’s a winner.

12

LONVITALITE S3 RED WINE COLLAGEN FIRMING & MOISTURISING SILK SHEET MASK This sheet mask supplies collagen by mildly sealing water into the skin to improve lustre, fade wrinkles, and promote the regeneration of damaged cells. It got our attention with ‘red wine’ and didn’t fail to disappoint.

HEADWAY.NET.NZ 123


Beauty | BUSINESS

IS IT REALLY WORTH IT? Kim Ryan beauty expert and industry leader investigates whether the adage of ‘you get what you pay for’ applies to skin care (and it seems it does) and introduces us to ‘skin care banking’…

I

n today’s changing world of beauty therapy, the products that are coming onto the market are sometimes what we perceive as expensive but in reality they reflect the technology and research behind them. Let’s look at ways around changing our thought patterns and really looking after our client with our exceptional knowledge, exceptional products and understanding why luxury products cost what they do. The baby boomers are looking for all the anti-ageing help they can get and they don’t have an issue with investing more if they get the desired result and have been educated about the effectiveness of the ingredients of the range. The barrier we often face is not the dollar but is that the client wants the change but they are scared to make the investment because they have previously purchased products that have not delivered results or fulfilled expectations. Selling high end skincare is like selling any other high end product, whether it be clothing, jewellery or a prestige car. You have to understand the product and know what you are selling is going to meet the needs of your clients. If you are not product savvy you are doing a disservice 124 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

to yourself and your brands. Break down the features and benefits in words that your client can understand, don’t tell them it is a nice product; they already know that. Tell them what the products are going to do for their skin in the short, medium and long term. Consultation and clear communication is critical. We can’t fix everything in one session, so look at the basics first, what are they currently using and what is it that they like about that product. Is it delivering the results that they want? Establish what their time restraints are in terms of how long they have to spend on their skin. Remind them that if they truly want results then it is the homecare that is going to make the long-term difference. Sit down with your client and formulate a plan that includes homecare and professional treatments. This should include what we can achieve in the short term and the products and treatments they will require to get this result. Then look at the midterm (approximately six months) and formulate the next plan including the treatments and homecare needed to achieve this, and lastly the long term (one year down the track). I find when taking this approach there are no surprises for the client and they feel a sense of achievement when getting to the

next stage. I call this plan ‘skin treatment banking’. You make your initial deposit of the first treatment and daily you put little deposits in, and before you know it you are accumulating interest. That interest is the change in your skin, every step means a better long-term result and less lines and wrinkles. Selling treatment plans is easy if you do the proper planning and consultation with your client.

“Clients don’t have a big issue with spending the money, it is that they have not been given the right advice and treatments to achieve their desired results in the past. It is a lack of trust that will cause hesitation.” Consultations, prescription treatments and homecare advice will win customer loyalty and guarantee you a successful business. Remember, it is not about what we think they should have or that we think is expensive, it is what is right for that client. If you don’t believe in your products then why should they. Contact Kim via kim@advanceddermacare.co.nz


Sensations Orientales. Signature Body Treatment of Oriental inspiration. An exceptional 1 hour treatment experience inspired by ancestral Oriental traditions and ingredients of Amber, Myrrh and Dates to nourish, warm and delight the senses. THE PROFESSIONALS CHOICE IN CLINIC

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Beauty | FEATURE

DREAM TEAM Finding the right staff can make or break a business Pauline De Thierry, owner of Pamper Me MediSpa in Thames shares the benefits of taking on a beauty therapy apprentice.

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO GO DOWN THE PATH OF USING APPRENTICESHIPS?

WHAT SKILLS DO YOU NEED AS A SALON OWNER TO TRAIN APPRENTICES?

The biggest challenge as a business owner is finding great staff that fit within a salon culture. I had a wonderful junior employee who was trained in cosmetology and makeup artistry, but her qualifications and skills did not allow me to take her beyond entry-level beautician services. Then HITO presented a silver lining in the form of an apprenticeship programme. This staff member is now about to begin her third year in HITO’s qualification in Beauty Therapy. Since starting our journey with HITO, I now have three apprentices, all at different levels. With support, training and guidance, HITO allows me to teach and develop my staff to become fully qualified, high performers.

Patience - all apprentices are different. Listen to them, communicate clearly and review their work with them regularly. Time management and planning are also key. Practical training can happen at any time but theory needs time allocation to ensure that the apprentice understands. And finally commitment. Know that this is a journey of learning for you and the apprentice, one day at a time. Your commitment is rewarded by their success.

I am able to train the apprentice to my standard of expectation and performance and quickly transition them to a paying treatment. The wages for apprentices is lower than the minimum wage, but I have a bonus structure in place to offset this and set targets straight away. In my experience, this encourages the apprentice to remain committed to the goal, the team and the business. I can also allocate training time to suit our client demand and change the training delivery to suit the trainee. We don’t all learn the same way. This makes HITO the best choice because they have programmes and strategies in place to support many styles of learning and delivery.

We are continually reviewing processes in the salon. Since I completed my training 13 years ago, I am still learning with the apprentice. This is great for me to review what we do to ensure we keep up with industry changes. They love coming to me with something I don’t know! We all benefit from knowledge, we just need to be open to change.

“Apprenticeships are not an entitlement, they are a privilege”

WHAT IS THE FEEDBACK FROM YOUR CLIENTELE? Everyone loves a special, and we offer discounted rates to clients that are being treated by an apprentice. Our clients love to see the team developing and learning and are more than happy to volunteer as models for training, mock exams and practical assessments.

126 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF ON-THE-JOB LEARNING?

• You get the opportunity to see your apprentice bloom, they transition into an exceptional therapist with exceptional skills and become a valued member of the team. • You have the team involved with development. It’s a team effort. • They are able to earn an income and gain a qualification at the same time. • There are no fees for employers and the apprenticeships are extremely affordable. • Support and training material are well developed and make the training process easy to follow.

Apprenticeships are not an entitlement, they are a privilege. Employers will invest a lot of time and energy into an apprentices’ development. In return, you hope to gain a loyal, trusting, skilled team member who values and is committed to the growth of the business.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BENEFITS AS A SALON OWNER?

WHAT FEEDBACK DO YOUR APPRENTICES GIVE YOU?


How can a beauty therapy apprentice help your business? Interested in growing your business, increasing productivity, and giving back to your industry? Then hire an apprentice today. •

Your apprentice can take over customer care and salon tasks, freeing your seniors to bring in more income

You can train your apprentice to fit your brand

Your apprentice will build clientele as they learn – no waiting for new seniors to bring in clients

HITO will support you and your apprentice the whole way

No fees for the employer

All you need is: •

A qualified staff member with the National Certificate in Beauty Services (Beautician) Level 4 to supervise your apprentice

No qualification? No problem. HITO helps experienced beauty therapists get qualified through Qualification by Experience. If you’ve got more than five years’ experience as a beauty therapist, HITO can convert that experience into a Level 4 Beauty Therapy qualification. Want to know more? Come see us at the NZ Hair and Beauty Expo, July 15-16 2017, ASB Showgrounds Auckland. Can’t make it to the Expo? Give us a call on (04) 499 1180 or email info@hito.org.nz to find out more.


FROM OUR SPA TO YOUR HOME DEVELOPED IN SPA, THE ASPAR RANGE OF BOTANICALLY ACTIVE PRODUCTS HAVE BEEN CREATED WITH CARE AND EXPERTISE BY THERAPISTS AT AWARD-WINNING AURORA SPAS AROUND AUSTRALIA. SINCE THEIR EARLY BEGINNINGS OF HAND MIXING PRODUCTS IN THEIR FLAGSHIP SPA , ASPAR ARE DEDICATED TO CREATING HIGH PERFORMANCE FORMULATIONS THAT ARE AS EFFECTIVE AS THEY ARE SUBLIME.

For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on the ASPAR range contact us on 0800 105 107 or email info@selfcare.co.nz


Beauty | BUSINESS

MID YEAR

CHECK UP We’ve all had a case of the mid-winter blues, but did you know the same can happen to your business?

DOES MOTIVATION HIT A LOW-POINT HALFWAY THROUGH THE YEAR? When the cooler months come our way it can be harder to get motivated to stay as active in your mind and body. For our clients, we turn the mid-year check point into a mindset of productivity and purpose. It is really important to have a focus point for these months and make some small measurable goals to drive towards when the going gets tough (and cold). Also, if you have worked through with no break at all, you may find yourself feeling a little burnt out, and feeling like you are not only stuck on the treadmill of life but in the passenger seat.

WHAT CAN SMALL BUSINESS OWNERS DO TO PERFORM A ‘MID-YEAR CHECK-UP’ ON THEIR BUSINESS?

Writing down your goals is essential to the success of achieving them. Don’t think it, ink it. When we write our goals down we have much more likelihood of achieving them. We also suggest creating a visual representation of your goals. The best way to do this is by creating a business vision board that you can see every day. There can be a board in your office or staff room or a digital version that is with you always. This helps to keep you and your team focused and on track.

“Writing down your goals is essential to the success of achieving them. Don’t think it, ink it.”

A mid-year check-up is a brilliant routine to get into as it coincides with your winter solstice. Here are eight questions that we recommend answering: 1. Is employee turnover too high? 2. Are your best customers happy? 3. Are your communications effective? 4. Are you developing new business? 5. Are your goals clear, and do they relate to and support your vision? 6. Are your employees working too many hours? Are you? 7. Are your financial reports current, reliable, and useful to you in operating your business? 8. Have your recent initiatives been successful? It is also most useful to book in when and how you are going to top up your tank. To feel energised throughout the year we need to ensure we have an energy plan as we go through the seasons. 130 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

WHAT SHOULD BUSINESS OWNERS DO AT THIS TIME OF YEAR WITH REGARDS TO GOALS?

WHAT ABOUT ADMIN AND FINANCES – IS THERE ANYTHING BUSINESS OWNERS SHOULD BE DOING? The regular monthly finance reporting is the base line foundation for all businesses. Then at the mid -year point you can drill down further into your financial reporting and make sure you have the most efficient and effective structure set up for you to have all the information you need to make the most informed decisions in the second part of the year.

SHOULD BUSINESS OWNERS SET INCENTIVES FOR THEMSELVES OR THEIR TEAM? Research has shown people aren’t necessarily more engaged by financial incentives than by non-financial ones. We believe it is about getting to know what works best for you and your team. If you do choose to motivate staff with financial incentives, it’s important to understand that handing out a monetary bonus isn’t necessarily going to change the way a staff member shows up to work. The values of the employee and the company need to be aligned first and foremost, then the employee also needs to be comfortable in an organisation, and to like and be challenged by their role, in order to show their true potential as an asset to your business.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

L

yndall Mitchell & Shannah Kennedy, leaders in life and wellness education, share their insights on how to best tackle this phenomenon.


engage • educate • empower If your career goals aren’t supporting your life goals, you are bound to have a miserable existence.

• Set goals that you can control Unless every aspect of the goal you set is under your control, you have very little likelihood of ever achieving it.

• Think big Set your sights higher than most might believe practicable.

• Give yourself time If you begin with the end in mind, that is to say, if you start by visualising where you want to end up in life, the things you need to get there are pretty easy to plot out.

• Manage your risks Just be sure that you consider that risk and weigh it against the reward.

Tips to help you achieve your goals: • Find out how business mentoring can help you develop your business skills • Learn how you can become an innovative business • Watch a recorded webinar for tips to help you improve your business performance • Find out your competitive advantage • Learn how sales targets can motivate your sales team

SETTI NG

• Write goals that align with your values

• Plan for success

@T H

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The Essentialists work to engage, educate and empower individuals, teams and organisations with essential life and wellness skills.

Lyndall Mitchell & Shannah Kennedy are founders of The Essentialists and co-authors of Chaos to Calm, book out now. www.theessentialists.com.au

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Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat

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We have long been fans of Lisa Messenger (Collective Hub) for her amazing energy and talent. Her ethos of being healthy and happy has never been more important. Oh - and we just could not start our insta inspo column without the legendary Dr Libby.

Journey Life is a journey of course (without going all mung bean on you) but it’s always good to be reminded of some fabulous world class wellness destinations.

@superelixir

@thelongevitybook

EN G ER

@sporteluxe

Scroll through some of the best international, local and up & coming wellness Instagram profiles and Pinterest boards to keep you healthy and focused through the winter season

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@drlibby

WHAT'S T

Beauty | WELLNESS

Health is not a luxury and should be something we treasure dearly. Here at HWY we have embraced the Super Elixir with a passion – a great way to get healthy from the inside out.

Food One of our fave topics after all things gorgeous in the hair, beauty & fashion world. You are what you eat so make sure it’s delicious and you will be too!

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INGRID Salon Trolley

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LUMA LED magnifying lamp with table clamp Pedestal also available


Beauty | PROMOTION

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK

WHY EMBRACE A SKIN ANALYSIS DEVICE?

By FLORENCE BARRETT-HILL OF “PASTICHE EDUCATION” AND MARGARET WALSH OF “OBSERV”.

M

any professions use diagnostic equipment as part of the client or patient assessment. Your GP does, your physiotherapist, your naturopath - all complete a thorough analysis to determine wellness. They use blood types, take blood pressure and assess the patients weight which is then measured and recorded. A thorough consultation is completed. As a beauty expert about to perform a skin treatment, we must also embrace this step. Before embarking on a skin care programme, or when skin is analysed, skin diagnostic equipment must be utilised, readings recorded and a point of reference or your starting point established. Skin diagnostic equipment never replaces you! You need your skin analysis skills and those eyes of yours and the skin brain as YOU are the skin diagnostic technician that explains what the clinicial visuals means. A skin analysis device does confirm your diagnosis. It will give you a pathway to follow and assist in establishing the cause of the skin concern. The diagnostic device will provide both you and your client with an understanding of the severity of the problem. It will provide a professional point of reference to start from and to return to when doing future skin evaluations 6 to 12 months into your in-salon treatment programme. Let us take a closer look at a type of Skin Diagnostic Equipment that would be easy to use and affordable to purchase. One that provides a professional point of reference, gives credibility to the treatment clinician and accuracy of skin analysis. A type of diagnostic equipment that is interactive, where the client can see what YOU the diagnostic technician can see, thus opening a dialog about the skin, and the skin analysis. 134 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

WHAT TYPE OF DEVICE OFFERS ALL OF THESE BENEFITS TO THE BEAUTY THERAPIST SKIN DIAGNOSTICIAN? OBSERV. This 21st Century technology is the brainchild of Dutch inventor Walter Arkesteijn. Walter made it his personal “mission” to develop a technology that could release the full potential of fluorescence-based skin analysis. With a devoted team of engineers he realised that goal eight years later. Not only did Walter’s team succeed in developing a technology which brings out hidden skin conditions with a distinction and contrast as never seen before they also made sure that the technology is utilised in conjunction with one of the most popular mobile computer technologies available: the iPad. The Observ communicates with the iPad via wireless Bluetooth, allowing all of the manual controls to be adjusted via the App that you download to your iPad. The rays travel through all layers of the skin, deep into the dermis, and because the cells in the human skin tissue have the natural capacity to turn these invisible rays into visible light, different cells and skin tissues in various conditions create different fluorescent illumination patterns. Consequently, skin impairments and conditions which previously could hardly be seen by the naked eye, now clearly stand out from normal healthy skin tissue. In the 25 second period that the client is under the hood of the Observ, the skin is photographed under five different light sources for later analysis.

THESE DIVERSE LIGHT SOURCES INCLUDE: • DAYLIGHT (FOR YOUR EVALUATION). The skin as seen in a controlled natural daylight environment. Perfect for before/ after photos).


• CROSS-POLARISED (LOOKS PAST THE EPIDERMIS UNDER THE SKIN). With the skin’s surface shine suppressed, you can obtain an unobstructed view of dermal structures such as the vascular system, making the analysis of vascular conditions, capillary network matting, erythema and inflammation highly visible and more accurate. • PARALLEL POLARISED (SHOWS THE SURFACE TEXTURE). An enhanced view of the skin’s surface shows incomplete corneocyte compaction and desquamation. Fine lines that are an indication of collagen loss become more defined. It becomes easier to evaluate the depth of the deeper lines of elastin loss, and surface anomalies such as seborrheic keratosis, pore size & blockages are more evident.

A skin analysis device does confirm your diagnosis. It will give you a pathway to follow and assist in establishing the cause of the skin concern.

• SIMULATED WOODS LAMP (UPGRADED WOODS LIGHT TO HIGHLIGHT THE OIL FILM). A familiar light that dermatologists and beauty therapists use. By adjusting the spectrum, the distribution of skin secretions is revealed in colours of melon to yellow. As a result, the cataloguing of sebaceous secretions into degrees of severity and location becomes easier and one can check the nutritional behaviour of our client!

• TRUE UV (FLUORESCENCE SKIN ANALYSIS THAT HIGHLIGHTS ALL PIGMENTATION). The new LED light source that is three times more efficient than conventional tubes and has enabled the more accurate analysis of skin abnormalities such as pigmentation within the epidermis. True UV also shows the loss of structural integrity where collagen and elastin has sagged and inflammation of the dermal layers, plus vascular damage and redness.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

• COMPLEXION ANALYSIS (IRREGULARITIES REVEALED). The complexion analysis is a computer generated assessment of how skin deteriorates when neglected. Revealing future inhomogeneities in skin tone, skin conditions such as pigmentation irregularities and irritations, this is particularly effective in showing the client a prediction of what they will look like in 10-15 years time. These images are very useful for communication with the client when selling the findings of the skin analysis. Are you keen to “upskill” into advanced skin analysis technology and education for your salon in 2017? This consultative analysis begins on your Apple iPad with your client sitting alongside you. The client will be staring in disbelief at the evidence of their skin health, their genetics flying in full visual force in front of them and all the “actual” things that they are doing to their skin, and nutrition, will be visible. Your clients will be nodding and requesting a home care regime. Clear diagnostic visuals? Yes. Interactive? Yes. Results driven? Without a doubt! Add an OBSERV to your salon this year? Yes. For more information, visit www.observ.co.nz and visit us at stand #354 at NZ Beauty EXPO. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 2


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Keep in touch on our social media pages. Headway Magazine @headwaymagazine


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Beauty | WELLNESS

The Ritual The health benefits of tea as the conduit for communication and good health are explored by Liz Gapes – wellness guru and health nut.

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ORIGIN AND TYPES Tea varieties have five categories - black, green, oolong, white and pu’er. All tea comes from the same plant ‘Camellia sinensis’ and its variance comes from the difference in preparation, geographical location and growing conditions. Black tea is allowed to wither and fully oxidise in the air, giving it a more robust flavour and higher caffeine content. Oolong tea partially oxidises and gives the tea a more delicate tone and flavour. Green tea only withers off the tree and oxidation is stopped by rapidly heating the leaves. White tea is carefully handled and handprocessed using the youngest shoots of the

tea plant. Pu’er tea is an aged black tea from China which is fermented and the older the ‘better’ for its medicinal properties.

SO WHY IS TEA GOOD FOR YOU? The health benefits of tea are captured in the ‘polyphenols’ in the leaves. These work as protective antioxidants and neutralise the harmful free radicals produced by our environment and stress. Tea has about eight to ten times the polyphenols found in fruit and vegetables and, in green tea - polyphenols make up about 30% of the total dry weight. The longer you steep your tea, the more polyphenols are extracted into your drink.

I love brewing up a whole litre of tea and popping it in the fridge to have iced after exercise or during the warmer months. In summer nothing beats green tea with fresh strawberries and blueberries, while in winter I love sipping on a freshly brewed jasmine tea. Personally I prefer loose leaf tea and always have a tea spoon at the ready. I would highly recommend introducing the ritual of tea into your life.

140 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

ome over for a cup of tea is such a universal way to invite someone to your home, to spend time with them and hear about what is happening in their life. It means so much more than a soothing or relaxing drink and I’ve come to realise this more in the last six months or so. I recently married and tea featured in quite a lot of the process, spanning across my European and Chinese heritage. Firstly, before the wedding we had a “kitchen tea”. This took the form of a mad hatter’s tea party at my mother’s house with about 40 antique cup and saucer sets. Everyone who came loved being able to pick their favourite tea cup set and choice of tea. There were also many stories told about the beauty of the cup as well as its heritage. I also had a traditional Chinese tea ceremony the day after our wedding with my Chinese family which involved my grandfather’s tea set and a special ‘wedding’ tea from Malaysia. This involved us serving our elders tea and being blessed by them, followed by us taking our seat at the elders table and being served tea by the younger generation as a newly married couple. Both experiences were extraordinary and centred around this ancient beverage.


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Headway Winter 2017 Vol.40 No.2  
Headway Winter 2017 Vol.40 No.2  
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