Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz
CONTENTS Hair EDITOR’S NOTE
PROFILE 13 NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Danny Pato
19
L’ORÉAL STYLE & COLOUR TROPHY AWARDS: Finalists
37
HAIR NEWS
TRENDS 31 TEN TOP COLOUR TRENDS 47 THE WOB: New look bob 49 CROWN OF CURLS
f colour o d
The wo rl
9
53
HAIR INSPIRATION 53 INTERNATIONAL HAIR INSPIRATION 83 HOLLYWOOD HAIR: Denis De Souza
Beauty 7
BEAUTY NEWS
PROFILE 11 THE MULTITASKERS: Makeup 14 MOISTURE SHOT: For skin 17 WINTER A-PEEL 20 MASTERING A BOLD LIP 22 LIPSTICK QUEEN: Karen Murrell 23 SEA WORTHY: Skincare
30 Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat
83 Celebrity colourist
BUSINESS 27 THE CHANGING FACE OF SKINCARE SPA 30 GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT 34 FIVE STEPS TO WELLNESS TRAVEL 36 24 HOURS IN MELBOURNE NUTRITION 38 THE BREAKFAST CLUB
5 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
20
Mastering a bold lip
AMMONIA FREE, PPD FREE, NATURALLY DERIVED INGREDIENTS
Crew Distributors info@crewdistributors.co.nz 0800 CREW66 (0800 273 966)
HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / WINTER 2016 / VOL.39 NO.2
0800 169 600 • DATELINE.CO.NZ
®
MANAGING EDITOR Trudi Brewer trudi@selfcaregroup.co.nz M: +64 9 5795188
ART DIRECTOR Olivia Wimsett - Own Design olivia@owndesign.co.nz
DESIGNER Vanessa Naran vanessa@selfcaregroup.co.nz
PRINTING
TIGI
Bell Print
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Trudi Brewer, Sarah Simpson, Anne O’Brien, Catherine Stone, Liz Lamb, Sharleen Singh, Alex Mead. ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST
EDITORAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage.
CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nailsalons and spas.
INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage) HAIR COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: Daryna Barykina. HAIR: Erica Reynolds Keelen using Pravana Vivids. MAKEUP: Karen Sarahi Gonzalez. STYLING: Caisa Airmet. MODEL: Lunden @MSA Models BEAUTY COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: Burch & Beattie
fatboy 66 APOLLO DRIVE, ALBANY, AUCKLAND
HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2016 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
Hair: Karine Jackson for Organic Colour Systems Creative Direction: Errol Douglas Photography: Andrew O’Toole Stylist: Leticia Dare Makeup: Margaret Aston Assistant: Nicola Hand
Walk the talk ÂŽ
ColourSystems
Plastic FREE
Call or text 021 906 647 | email: info@organiccoloursystems.co.nz
www.organiccoloursystems.co.nz
Headway | EDITOR’S LET TER
W
elcome to the ‘Hair Excellence’ issue, it has certainly been a month of hair distinction. From the announcement of Danny Pato, co-owner of d&m Hair Design in Auckland, taking out the prestigious title of New Zealand Schwarzkopf Professional Hairdresser of the Year at Hair Expo, to the 30 talented finalists announced in L'Oreal Style & Colour Trophy Awards. Then to the gifted team at Dharma Hair Salon, with their Industry Protègè Competition, we are proud to share the winner and finalist's work in this issue also. There are dozens of stylist's across the country rising to star status, for their talent and skill, and we are delighted to be there to follow and support them. Our industry is facing massive change, from the innovation in product creation and design; you can read all about a 'cool tool' that freezes the frizz out of hair. To a vivid, glossy, colour - Pravana, that graces our stunning cover. This lively colour is a game changer for clients and stylists alike. It ticks all the boxes, inspired by nature, so no threat to client or stylist health, it's housed in biodegradable packaging, and has a built-in charitable contribution for every purchase made. With YouTube sensation Guy Tang a fan of this brand, his knowledge and inspiring, free-hand creations can be viewed on Instagram at Guy_Tang, and you can tag your own work at #HairBesties. Tang has built a community of 1.4 million colourists and fans, a tribe you can be part of to share and guide each other through the colouring process. And we can't forget beauty, a topic close to my heart. We are thrilled to have Karen Murrell lipstick grace our cover for the first time. This brand is on fire. With massive expansion in spas and salons, across the globe. Women it seems can't get enough of its long-lasting power, natural ingredients, and delicious taste. In fact - this is one lipstick that is honestly good enough to eat. Finally, to this issue, which is also on a journey - one of change. I have stepped in to take care of the brand for a few issues, as editor, while the gorgeous Charmaine Guest is taking some time out to master the most important role in her career, that of motherhood. You will be pleased to know mother and daughter, baby Ophelia, are blooming. So, to mark my arrival, we have a new look for you to like and share #headwaywinter, as well as a new digital issue. Check it out at www.headway.net.nz. Don't forget to follow us on Instagram at headwaymagazine and remember, we love hearing from you.
Trudi Brewer Like us on Facebook: Headway Magazine Follow us on Instagram: @headwaymagazine 9 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Congratulations to Danny Pato, who took out the title of Hairdresser of the Year at Hair Expo early this month. Above is my favourite image from his winning collection. Also, a big thank you Mr Pato for the ‘good hair days’ you have consistently given me over the past decade - #hairinspo.
on her baby news. Charmaine Guest, Congratulations to will be pleased to baby Ophelia. You rld wo y az cr r ou to Welcome a day old. ing great. Ophelia do e ar b bu d an know mum
EDITOR’S PICKS: Tom Ford White Suede Eau de Parfum, 50ml. Environ Intense Retinol 3. Kathryn Wilson Angelique cross body bag.
Wash ash Less. Live Mor More. The dry shampoo that cleans beyond ordinary dry shampoo shampoos.
INSTANTLY REMOVES OIL, SWEAT & ODOR. RED FLUORESCENCE = OIL & SWEAT
Dirty Hair
Dry Shampoo
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
Hair
PHOTOGRAPHY L’Oréal Professionnel
Hair | COLLECTIONS
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 12
Hair | DANNY PATO
NZ HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR
DA N N Y PA T O A FEW WORDS FROM THE WINNER… Recently named New Zealand hairdresser of the year Danny Pato, stylist and co-owner of d&m Hair Design in Auckland was in a state of shock hearing his name announced at The Schwarkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards in Melbourne. Trudi Brewer caught up with a very shaky, but elated Pato backstage after the event.
DID YOU EXPECT TO WIN, WAS IT A SURPRISE OR DID YOU GET A HEAD’S UP? Not at all and no heads up. It took me completely by surprise.
HOW DO YOU FEEL NOW? Once the shock wore off, I felt like Miss Universe. It was so wonderful to have my d&m salon family with me to share the special moment and our achievement.
WHAT WAS YOUR REACTION? When they called my name I almost went deaf and blind. I had to ask my husband to walk me up to the stage because I was so disorientated. PHOTOGRAPHER: Mara Sommer. MAKE-UP: Aimie Fiebig.
13 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
HOW WILL THIS TITLE CHANGE YOU AS A STYLIST, AND OR YOUR BUSINESS? The title comes with responsibility, so there’s a bit of pressure. I’ll be kept on my toes to perform at the top of my game – but I will relish that.
Hair | DANNY PATO
Above: Finalist in Salon Team of the Year 2016.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 16
Eva Green for L’Oréal Professionnel
rt ua
• erly
The Austra lian Wom
en ’s W ee
WINNER
ala Ze
2016
w
nd
s Weekly • Go man’ od Wo He
alt h
s ice ho
NZ BEST IN
Day • Simply Y ou an’s •N om W e
NEX
Q
•
T•
n
kl y
Fa sh io
Hair repair that lasts.
VOTED BEST SHAMPOO by New Zealand Consumers
C
Exclusive to L’Oréal Professionnel Salons Talk to your L’Oréal Professionnel Representative or call 0800 657 666 to become a Pro Fiber stockist
*Pro Fiber Restore Shampoo, winner of Best Shampoo at the New Zealand Best in Beauty Awards 2016
/lorealprofessionnelnz |
/lorealpronz
PREVIOUS WINNING LOOK
A CELEBRATION OF HAIR EXCELLENCE
19 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | AWARDS
L’OR É A L S T Y L E &
C O L OUR T R OPH Y AWA R D S
Y
ou would be right in thinking this country has some outstanding hair stylists. With the recent announcement of the 30 finalists in the L’Oreal Style & Colour Trophy Awards, there will be a nervous wait across the country for a winner, announced at the gala event on July 30th. The industry’s most prestigious prize will come with the accolade of being a top stylist, along with the opportunity to showcase their talent and skills on the world stage, at the global finals in Lisbon, Portugal. Here is the line-up of potential winners.
THE JUDGES COMMENTS Stephen Marr Co-owner of Stephen Marr salons in Auckland. Marr collaborates with this country’s top designers and photographers on fashion shoots, hair shows and films. The man behind The Marr Factory, an annual rock’n’roll week of fashion, he brings his stylist’s eye for latest trends, both locally and internationally as a judge.
Tracey Hughes Director throughout international fashion weeks, favourite beauty media advisor and global educator for L’Oreal. Her energy and wealth of international knowledge make her an outstanding judge. WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF THE STANDARD OF ENTRIES THIS YEAR? The standard overall was fantastic. There were a couple of standouts. And some entries, not up to the standard required. However, it’s admirable that they are producing work that
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION OF THE STANDARD OF ENTRIES THIS YEAR? The overall standard of entries was excellent, with some real standouts. WHAT MAKES A WINNING HAIR LOOK? The complete package, overall composition look and feel of the shot. WHAT WAS A STANDOUT FOR YOU DURING THE JUDGING PROCESS? A very strong contrasting offering of colour, across all of the entries. they as stylists, should be very proud of. WHAT MAKES A WINNING HAIR LOOK? It is about the impact of the shot and the emotion it evokes more than the actual hair. A brilliant model, excellent photography, great styling, flawless makeup and beautiful hair. The style needs to capture current trends, yet remain wearable. Overall it needs to be a timeless beauty shot. WHAT WAS A STANDOUT FOR YOU DURING THE JUDGING PROCESS? The top two or three caught my eye instantly. The next 10 were challenging, as the standard was on a par, so defining my top 12 took some time to judge. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 20
1
Hannah Wilkes Felix Culpa Hairstyling, Christchurch.
Mathias Te Moananui Buoy Salon and Spa, Wellington.
NZ Hairdresser of the year
Kaleb Prit c Dharma, Auc kla rd nd ha .
Sara Allsop Dharma, Auckland. 21 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Grant Bettjeman Bettjemans, Auckland.
Sean M ah
Hair | AWARDS
y - Vada, Auckland. e on
Chinney Yeap Buoy Salon and Spa, Wellington.
Keryn Hogg
Jan Waite Hairdressing, Auckland.
Angeline Thornley Rodney Wayne Lampton Quay, Wellington.
Adrian Barclay Venom, Invercargill.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 22
Headway | PROMOTION
ndi O’N Bra eil
ton. ing ell
-W mith illis York, S W l-
2
Nina Williams Dharma, Auckland.
Young talent
Nadine Gratton Beyond the Fringe, Blenheim.
Kelly Manu Blaze, Auckland.
Elliott Benton Buoy Salon and Spa, Wellington.
23 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | AWARDS
x Sisley -B Ale la , ze
nd. ckla Au
Emily Bryson Willis York, Wellington.
Andrew Cobeldick Rodney Wayne on Manners, Wellington.
Dawn Thomson Rodney Wayne Newmarket, Auckland.
Courtney Jackson Bebabo Hairstudio, New Plymouth.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 24
Culpa Ha lix ir e F
g, Christchu rch ylin t . s
3
Salon of the year
25 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | AWARDS
Blaze Auckland.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 26
Bettjemans Auckland.
27 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
fekt Ha Per ir
Hair | AWARDS
io, Auckland. ud t S
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 28
S
Env y
Tauranga. on, l a
29 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | AWARDS
Coco He Perfekt Hair Studio, Auckland.
Rachelle Gourley Aart on St Andrew, Dunedin.
4
Mana Dave Blaze, Auckland.
Men’s Image Award
Jason Davies
Josh Angell
Adoux Hair, Tauranga.
French Revolver Studio, Auckland.
T E A M S P I R I T There is nothing like collaboration when it comes to being creative. We discover how to create some potential award winning hair shots.
S
potting talent is something Rodney Wayne and his artistic team has honed their skills at. So when the opportunity to enter L’Orèal Style & Colour Trophy Awards presented itself, it was a team effort from the start. Richard Kavanagh Creative Director pulled together a top team of stylists, makeup artists and Australian-based photographer Steven Chee to create some stunning entries 42 in total. “It takes a team to create this beautiful imagery, which is one of the key aspects of this competition. Having the best photographer, models, wardrobe and makeup all goes into the final result,” says Kavanagh. And the result has certainly paid off with three finalists recently announced and in the running for hairdressings most prestige’s prize, with the evening only weeks away. “All the stylists were able to connect together on hair ideas and focus on what they do best, knowing that the photographic team was the best available.” With a single focus in mind to take the prize, Kavanagh believes a winning look is more than just a hairstyle. “It's a combination of elements coming together to create a synergy,” says Kavanagh, who believes it all starts with a great model that connects with the camera. “Of course, a well-executed cut and colour and a hairstyle that a client could look at and get excited by, is also essential.” Finally, Kavanagh says the makeup and wardrobe should subtly enhance the overall look. “It shouldn’t feel overthought but should be technically flawless.” Each of the entrants created unique looks, on different models, with a little gentle direction from Kavanagh. “As the creative director my role is more of a mentor, occasionally asking questions, encouraging individual stylists to dig a little deeper or push their idea, a bit further.” 31 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR
Angeline Thornley
Rodney Wayne Lambton Quay
The Rodney Wayne team entered 42 images, shot over two days in two different cities, using 21 different hair stylists and international Vogue photographer Steven Chee. “It was a huge production, and regardless of the outcome on awards night, everybody should be very proud of their beautiful work,” says Kavanagh. Richard Kavanagh has just been awarded an AHFA: Australian Hair Fashion Award, as session stylist of the year.
Headway | ADVERTORIAL
Recently crowned the winner of the Salon of the Year at the Bauer Best in Beauty awards BEST for 2016, HAIR SALON Rodney Wayne WINNER NZ Best in Beauty Awards is one of the 2016 leading hair companies in this country. We invite you to be part of the awardwinning team at New Zealand’s number one salon brand, Rodney Wayne. Upbeat and contemporary, Rodney Wayne has 36 large and small salons around New Zealand, all with a great mix of customers who love our service and rely on us for gorgeous, healthy hair. You could benefit from our world famous Rodney Wayne and L’Oréal training programmes and support systems. As a stylist and member of the Rodney Wayne creative powerhouse, you will have a key role in delivering the Rodney Wayne experience. Your objective is to provide a professional, highlyskilled, friendly and efficient service to all of our clients. Multiple pathways for career growth exists, including opportunities for passionate and skilled people to join the Rodney Wayne Artistic Team led by our Creative Director Richard Kavanagh (Redken Global Ambassador and mentor and two-time winner of Australian Session Stylist of the Year). At Rodney Wayne, we believe everyone has the right to look and feel fabulous. Because everyone is different, we listen and care. All our stylists are responsible for upholding these values by combining their technical expertise with the requirements of the Rodney Wayne System to consistently deliver outstanding hairdressing experiences. *Terms & conditions apply. See www.rodneywayne.co.nz for details.
YOUNG TALENT AWARD
Andrew Cobeldick
Rodney Wayne on Manners Wellington
Dawn Thomson
WORDS Trudi Brewer PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Chee
Rodney Wayne Newmarket
If this sounds like you please make contact. Call Stephanie in confidence on (09) 358 4644 to find out more, or email your CV and a covering letter to admin@rodneywayne.co.nz. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 32
Headway | PROMOTION
1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | PROTÉGÉ WINNER
INDUSTRY PROTÉGÉ WINNER Jenny Eastwood Congratulations to one of this countries up and coming young hairdressing talents, Jenny Eastwood from Colors Hair Company in Hamilton. Her win, at the recent Protégé Competition, was judged for her vision and creativity and ability to see high fashion looks in print. Protégé is a chance for the next generation of stylists to showcase their talent through editorial and styling skills. Eastwood was one of the four stylists, who impressed the industry heavyweights, Sara Allsop and Jock Robson, with her unique imagination and amazing work. Eastwood says her inspiration comes from Instagram, which is a huge point
of reference for her. "All the latest catwalk trends, colours and fashion designers such as Rodarte, will appear there usually before anywhere else so it helps me keep my finger on the pulse," says Eastwood. This win rounds off a successful few years for Eastwood, who has already held such titles as Midlands HITO Apprentice of the Year for 2014 and 2015, and was the runnerup for National winner in 2015. SACHAJUAN is a proud sponsor of New Zealand’s 2016 Protégé Competition, which took place in Auckland on Saturday 7th and Sunday 8th May.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Jock Robson. MAKE-UP: Paige Best. STYLING: Maxine Woolridge.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 34
Hair | PROTÉGÉ WINNER
By YAVANNA JOHNSON MANE SALON
By DOM LENDICH FRENCH REVOLVER SALON 35 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | PROTÉGÉ WINNER
By MAK AELA TIDDY FUSION HAIR HEADWAY.NET.NZ 36
H2D PURPLE ALLURE HAIR STRAIGHTENER Equipped with innovative new features and a gorgeous new colour boost, the H2D Allure Hair Straightener makes getting ready in the morning a breeze.
Hair news
H2D x 5 Curling Wand Curling hair has never been easier! With the choice of five curling options it only takes minutes to create the perfect frizz free, glossy curl that lasts.
By TRUDI BREWER
Kérastase L’Incroyable Blowdry L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL PROFIBER COLLECTION From split ends to colour fading, this innovative breakthrough starts in the salon as a treatment and continues to build long lasting protection as home care - expect healthy, glossy hair - within days.
1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
We all want a blow dry that lasts for days, and now it’s as simple as counting to three. Thanks to Kérastase L’Incroyable Blow-dry. This heat styling lotion is all you need for a long-lasting, luxurious blow dry with optimum shine.
Hair | NEWS
ING OIL ISH
ING PROO V LI
IZZ NOU FR R F
Kérastase Densif ique The latest innovation in hair science, is Kerastase Densifique. A new option in hair growth, for both men and women. It promise’s fullness like never before.
Perfect for coarse hair, this fast absorbing oil is designed to mimic the natural oil in hair, without the greasy build up. It’s ideal for those who want to calm unruly frizz.
ent Service Kerasilk Keratin Treatm
at, dry-looking fl e, n fi r u yo ss ki ld u Wha t if you co llo to luscious-looking he y sa d an e, by od go hair range of fers just k il as er K l el dw ol G he locks? T that - we are hooked.
Irene Gari Cleanse and Cover Hair Refresher For touch ups in-between salon visits or to hide the warning signs of grey, this powder is the answer to your worries, when applied to dry hair. It also acts as a cleanser and adds volume in hair desperately in need of some lift.
man style
Guy Roberts from Vada Hair in Auckland has a new styling crush: "You can break the rules and get some interesting textural variations by combining finishes,” says Roberts. Who is raving about the new Hanz De Fuko range. His styling cocktail: For a textured quiff, get an interesting matte finish using Hanz De Fuko Quicksand. And then dress hair out with Modify Pomade. For best results start with Hanz De Fuko Natural Shampoo and Conditioner “It lays the perfect foundation to build any style.” HEADWAY.NET.NZ 38
Hair | NEWS
L iz z y Jagger
TIGI BED HEAD REBOOT SHAMPOO Designed for the serial hair abusers, this scalp calming and re-balancing shampoo is exactly what your scalp needs after an attack of hair styling, leaving hair soothed, balanced and refreshed!
Redken announces Rock n Roll legend Lizzy Jagger as their new muse.“Lizzy’s signature, striking red hair and unique style epitomize the Redken Spirit.” The team at Redken have no doubt great things are about to happen.
RE JUV
EN
8
For many, the battle with split ends is a long term relationship. With the Revujen8 The Ends treatment, banish split ends and welcome gorgeous, moisturised and polished hair.
NDS
O R E N ZO I N S
RIES
EE
L DE
N
T
SE
TH
REDKEN CURVACOUS COLLECTION Every curly haired woman knows that a good hair day can turn into a birds nest in the blink of an eye. With the Redken Curvaceous collection, you can layer products together to keep your curls in check.
TA
#LIZZYJAGGER
Made from 100% natural bamboo, these sustainable bio towels make it easier than ever to create a more sustainable and environmentally friendly workspace. Biodegradable, luxuriously soft and smooth, they are leading the way in the sustainability stakes.
39 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Living Proof Humidity Shield
Theres nothing worse than the threat of humidity on our heat styled locks, but with the Living Proof Humidity shield offers the perfect protection against UV damage and static frizz. Simply spray onto dry hair throughout the day for endless protection. #cantlivewithoutit
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock & supplied
BIO TOWEL
Make a difference to your salon savings and the environment with new Bio Towels
W
ith 65% of consumers stating that they feel a responsibility to purchase products that are good for the environment and society, so too are they trending towards salons and spas that embrace this vision of environmental responsibility. Choosing products that are sustainable and eco-friendly can be beneficial in more ways than one; the savings to your salon for a start. This is why the luxurious Bio Towel is on our list as one of the best new products.
Bio Towels are hygienic and germ-free
Bio Towels are 100% natural
• BIO Towels can save your salon up to 40% off laundry costs
Bio Towels are made from 100% bamboo or sustainable wood fibre which are some of the most renewable plant resources available. Wood Fibre is grown without pesticides, herbicide or irrigation making it completely sustainable. Wood Fibre is a grass that grows back so quickly after being cut down that people can actually watch it grow! Pure wood fibre is structurally similar to cotton being luxurious, soft and smooth.
• Massive power savings on washing & drying
Bio Towels are biodegradable Due to their natural composition these towels will naturally decompose. Earth friendly, Bio Towels can be composted and will completely disintegrate into the soil, making them completely eco-friendly.
Bio Towels offer clients a hygienic clean, fresh and sanitised towel. This eliminates the risk of cross infection, giving you and your clients’ peace of mind, unlike cotton towels which are susceptible to bacteria build-up and an unpleasant odour.
With Bio Towels, the savings start immediately…
• No more wastage of water on washing • No more laundry chemicals needed • No more expensive towel replacements • Staff time can be spent more productively • Plastic-free, non-toxic • Space-saving (reduce your storage problem) • Various sizes and colours available
You can start reducing your salon’s carbon footprint today by calling PHB to view the full Bio Towel range
Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz
Hair | TRENDS
Colourfortrends
2016
With the explosion of direct dyes, tone on tone hues and organic formulations, today a creative colour defines the shape and style of any hair look. Here’s what experts are crushing over, says Trudi Brewer.
2
MAN COLOUR
1
More and more men are embracing colour blends. Guy Roberts from Vada Hair in Auckland says when it comes to colour, a ‘less is more’ approach is best. “For addressing grey, I will usually opt for a five-minute camouflage colour to blend it away, rather than create the problem of noticeable regrowth with permanent colour.” With lightening, Roberts says think clean and cool. “Aim for creating natural silver or grey flecking, as opposed to looking like an obvious foiled finish.”
3
Today there is no reason to compromise on the health of hair during a colour process. Enter an innovation from Goldwell, BondPro+. According to Brendon Aldridge technical educator for Goldwell and KMS, “It’s a two-step process. First, it strengthens and protects the amino acid chains during colouring, straightening or perming services, without having to allow for a longer processing time or increasing the strength of the hydrogen peroxide, which is what puts the health of the hair at risk.” The second step is super-nourishing and what reinforces the hair bonds. “You can feel confident lightening, straightening and nourishing the hair with Bondpro+. It will help to achieve strong hair, so your client no longer ends up with wisps in their brush.”
HIP FOILS
Cut back on foiling time with this latest innovation, Hip Foiler, created by veteran hairdresser Nadene Elstone. Ergonomically designed to minimise the effort it takes to foil an entire head of hair, and the continual twisting of your body as you work. Smart and easy to use, one hand holds the comb the entire time you are foiling, and the other simply reaches into the unit to get the foil, which is then placed straight onto the head - it's genius. Hip Foilers are available at Combined Salon Supplies nationwide: www.hipfoiler.co.nz or contact: 0508 (09) 525 3315 41 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
COLOUR CARE
4
SHIMMER SPRAY
A pop of bold colour transcends every generation, and the genius of Joico's InstaTint is you can spray in as little, or as much as you like, and then a few days later, if you feel like a change - just wash it away. Get clever with new shades of mermaid or sapphire blue, and orchid pink, each shade gives exceptional shine and works on any hair colour, texture, or length. How to: Spray 10 inches from dry hair, in short bursts. Allow product to dry between applications, layering to intensify the colour. Joico insider tip: Temporary pigments mean no long-term commitment or processing damage. The addition of a bioadvanced peptide complex, repairs fried locks, protects and fights frizz with every application.
Headway | PROMOTION
5
RIOT OF RED
According to Aldridge, a new family of bright reds are stopping traffic. "Instead of using subtle techniques such as balayage to create a standout blend, these are a mix of traditional Goldwell demi and permanent colourants with Elumen colour technology, that is perfect for the harsh UV exposure of our climate." Aldridge says they offer longevity and a diamond-like shine, without causing any damage to the health of the hair. "Elumen hair colour also meets consumer demand for peroxide and ammonia-free colour.” Perhaps the most exciting news is how it works once in the hair. “The combination of acidic pH with acidic direct dyes create a physical attraction between the hair and the negatively charged Elumen micro-dyes. This creates a magnet effect, holding the pigment firmly and permanently inside the hair,” says Aldridge.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 2
Hair | TRENDS
7
PLANET CARE
We can't ignore the waste salons generate, and after a decade of research (and foiling, at least eight heads of hair a day) Paul Frasca along with his partner, Ewelina Soroko didn't want to. So they came up with a planet-friendly solution - know as Refoil.
Does it work for all colouring techniques? Designed by a hairdresser for hairdressers, made from recycled aluminium, it retains heat exceptionally well when processing blondes and bleach tones. The Refoil Pre-cuts and Pop-ups come with a pre-fold to save time, so colourists can get on with what they do best.
How does it differ from regular foil, for flexibility and leakage?
6
TONE-ON-TONE
Give hair shine and vibrant colour from root to tip, with the latest L’Oréal Professionnel’s new DIA Richesse HiVisibility ammonia-free colour. An alkaline base, a direct dye that delivers an ultra-bright colour on any hair base - think copper, mahogany, sienna or ochre reflects, visible to the naked eye, even on dark brown hair. A high-impact colour for that time-poor client, looking for shiny, on-trend colour with minimum commitment.
The recycled foil saves up to 95 percent of the energy in production. Just one full head of foils can save the equivalent of the energy needed to run your TV for three hours, or enough energy to keep a 100-watt bulb burning for 20 hours. It's the most environmentally friendly foil and has exceptional flexibility and handling.
What is your best Refoil tip? The most important part of the Refoil Crush Recycle system, is the crushing process. It is imperative to crush your used Refoil sheets into balls before putting them in the recycle bin. The bigger the balls, the better.
Do you have New Zealand stats on the wastage? New Zealand salons waste around 400,000 kilos of foil each year. Unfortunately, it takes centuries for aluminium to degrade. Aluminium is at the same time one of the easiest and most versatile materials to recycle. You can recycle it over and over again without loss of properties. 43 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Headway | PROMOTION
9
Explaining how a colour change from subtle to more extreme can alter the look of a client's skin tone is now goof-proof. Enter the game changer for colourists, from hair guru Kevin Murphy, Color. Me Fringe. Benefits. Each fringe is made with a blend of real and synthetic hair, and can be easily clipped, and then blended through your client's hair to visualise change, or start the conversation about change - it’s genius.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
#MISS_VIOLET
voilet
8
TONE-ON-TONE
Backstage at fashion weeks across the globe you will find Moroccanoil Global Design Team Educator Violet Sainsbury working away. She has her fingers on the pulse when it comes to colour and styling. She believes the season ahead is warming up. “We are beginning to see warmer tones in lighter colours; think muted peach and sunshine beiges.” For brunettes, the news is also warming up. “Darker coloured hair will be moving into deeper, richer tones, washing away the remnants of long summer days at the beach.” Baby lights are replacing those chunky streaks we were sporting a few seasons ago. Sanisbury explains: "Baby lights are ultra-fine highlights expertly placed to provide subtle, seamless lightness." A colour technique, best combined with various highlighting techniques, “This will provide an individual result.”
rebecca
#REBECCATAYLORHAIR
10 VALIAGE
Celebrity colourist Rebecca Taylor, Guy Tang’s righthand girl, who resides in West Hollywood, California has created a new colour technique; 'Valiage' - the new way to give life to any hair look using a 'vivid balayage' technique. Essentially layering bright shades of direct dye, in triangle sections through the hair. Check out her clever hair inspiration at www.youtube.com/user/ stylistrebeccataylor HEADWAY.NET.NZ 44
Headway | PROMOTION
The coolest hair conditioning tool The idea of a hairstyle with zero frizz and brilliant shine impelled me to investigate a cool new hair tool like no other. We reveal its frozen assets.
H
air innovation is a multi-billion dollar industry driven by originality. And without exception, the latest ‘cool tool’ is truly unique, and the brainchild of Tauranga-based hairdresser David Roe. After 29 years styling hair, Roe had a light bulb moment when witnessing the perfect curl in his wife’s hair, after a chilled water rinse. Fast-forward five years and The Inverse Hair Conditioning System is now on the market - and the best news it was designed, created and manufactured right here in New Zealand. Roe gives us the lowdown on how it works.
WHERE DID YOU GET THE IDEA FOR THE INVERSE HAIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM? It was a combination of working as a stylist in salons, listening to what women want from styling tools and products, and my wife’s smooth tumbling curls. She was watching Tyra Banks one day at home, who was sharing a hair tip, telling African-American girls to rinse their hair with ice water, to reduce the fuzz. So, my wife did just that, and I saw this amazing head of hair, with curls that naturally clumped - I hadn’t seen anything like it before. And I hadn’t used any product that produced this effect. So, I thought, how can we do this in the salon, without the discomfort of a freezing rinse? After a few months of research, Inverse was born. This system uses frozen cores at sub-zero temperature’s to induce a natural conditioning effect in the hair.
HOW DOES IT WORK? Modeled on a small cordless flat iron, with removable frozen cores that reach -8 degrees, they clamp down on sections of hair between 45 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
two frozen plates. Best used on wet hair, the more moisture on the hair, the more moisture will get pumped into each strand of hair. The result is softness and shine, and each time you use them, these qualities increase.
HOW DO YOU USE IT? The best way to use it is on wet hair, that’s where you get the maximum benefit. After five times you will notice a complete change in the condition of the hair. At home, turn on the shower, go to the freezer and load the inverse, set it by the shower, give them a couple of minutes to acclimatise to avoid sticking. Follow your normal cleansing routine, and then lightly towel dry. Run the plates through the hair while it’s wet. Remember it’s ice, so keep them moving, but slow enough to drop the fibre down to sub-zero. All hair types can benefit, even fine hair; the moisture will encourage it to expand.
Inver se
Af
e or
Be
f
Headway | PROMOTION
t
3 er
0 d ays
heat damage repair tool, it improves the texture and shine, ultimately making hair stronger and able to cope better with heat.
IF YOU HAVE STRAIGHT HAIR, WHY WOULD YOU USE THIS? The shine and softness will be indescribable; there’s nothing like it. It locks the moisture inside the cortex, within the keratin protein, and then closes the cuticle, and frizz is out.
HOW DOES THE INVERSE ICE MIST WORK? The ice mist spray has a pH of 3.5, so it gently helps to close the cuticle and is particularly useful post colour. The biggest challenge after colour is to restore hair to an acidic state. It needs to be between 4.5 and 5.5, to retain colour. The Ice Mist brings down that pH level, protecting colour in each strand.
WHAT ABOUT USING IT WITH STYLING PRODUCT? Anyone with curls uses lots of product, to eliminate frizz. But with that often comes a coating on the hair that detracts from its natural shine, much like putting oil on a window and expecting to be able to see out of it. With The Inverse Hair Conditioning System, you will need less styling products, less conditioner. Closed cuticules equals more reflection and shine. Available exclusively at Combined Salon Supplies Nationwide.
INVERSE FACTS
WORDS Trudi Brewer PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock & supplied
• When hair is given a ‘cold rinse’ or a ‘cold shot’ from a hair dryer after styling, it encourages shine and smooth’s frizz. Sub-Zero temperatures lock in moisture, which is the basis of healthy, more manageable hair. Therefore, the elasticity is strengthened, which causes the hair to have much more body.
ANYTHING YOU SHOULD NOT DO WHILE USING THIS SYSTEM? Once you start using it, avoid as much heat as you can for the first couple of weeks. Give that moisture time to compound, time to build up in the hair, and then you can re-introduce heat. You may find you don’t need to use as much heat when styling because your hair will be sitting beautifully, the frizz will be gone, and you won’t need to straighten hair every day.
HOW CAN IT BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH HEAT STYLING? It makes heat styling faster, due to the moisture content in the hair. It can also be run though hair after blow-drying or straightening as a finishing tool to eliminate frizz and set the style. As well as a
• The optimal temperature for the Inverse System is -8 degrees. It cause’s a reaction in hair known as ‘hygrally induced hysterisis’, which instantly pushes moisture deep into the hair shaft. Inverse also helps to reduce hygralfatique. Once the hair is hydrated it’s less inclined to swell and contract damaging the structure and causing the cuticule to sit up.
• The Inverse Hair Conditioning
System helps balance the effects of external elements such as the wind and the sun. Once moisture is locked in, hair performs better, because it’s stronger and healthier.
• Unlike other hair treatments that coat or modify your hair, the Inverse Hair Conditioning System will make the hair less susceptible to damage and breakage from colour and heat services in the salon. And there’s no mess, no cords, no chemicals, no heat.’ • Inverse recently picked up two prestigious awards: A gold pin at NZ Best Awards, and also a Good Design Award in Australia in June.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ HEADWAY.NET.NZ46 2
WOB Alert
You have to give the bob respect for its staying power when it comes to being on trend. Trudi Brewer says the new evolution of this classic style is the ‘wob’. 47 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | WOB
1
2 3
I
4
t’s timeless, wearable and a version of this cut is still one of the most requested styles in salons across the globe. From poker straight to a textured longer version, known as a lob, right now there’s lots of noise around a new variety, known as the ‘wob’. A wavy, tousled bob that works on just about any hair type. Yes, it was popularised by A-Listers Instagram’s including, Jennifer Lawrence, Karlie Kloss and Miranda Kerr. Or maybe it’s the welcome return of curl that is putting this new look bob back in the spotlight? Stylist and co-owner of d&m Hair Design in Auckland, and New Zealand’s hairdesser of the year Danny Pato believes this is the season of the wob. “It has taken over as the most on-trend style of bob shape. And the best way to create it is to go with your client’s natural movement - and then encourage them to mess it up.” He adds, “A great-looking wob is a hot mess of effortlessly tousled waves, falling elegantly to the chin.” When it comes to the cut Pato says; “It depends on the texture and length. I would cut in long, round layers
to encourage curl. If the hair is thick, remove the bulk using the twist cutting technique to help the hair fall into a sexy tousled look.” Pato believes most hair types are wob-friendly, but the best is naturally wavy hair, so styling requires minimum effort. The styling focus should be about encouraging natural curl and keeping any frizz at bay. “Prep hair with a moisturising shampoo and conditioner. Remove excess water by blotting hair using a cotton T-shirt, as this won’t rough up the cuticle, like a towel does.” Apply lightweight styling creams for definition, before adding heat, or encourage clients to air-dry their hair to bring out their natural movement. “While hair is damp, take sections and twist hair around your fingers. The larger the section, the looser the wave will be,” says Pato. It’s fair to say the combination of wild curl, and a clean, chic cut is unquestionably the style to envy, for the next few months at least.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
“A great-looking wob is a hot mess of ef fortlessly tousled waves, falling elegantly to the chin.”
PATO’S STYLING COCKTAIL FOR CREATING A TOUSLED WOB. • For hair that’s naturally curly or wavy, mix Oribe Gold Lust Oil with either Oribe Supershine Moisturising Cream for no hold or with Davines Curl Building Serum if you need some styling support. • For fine and straight hair, use Davines Sea Salt Spray to encourage matte volume and curl. To finish, spray dry hair with Oribe Apres Beach Wave and Shine Spray or Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray and tousle.
Karlie Kloss
emma stone
Rosie
5
EDITORS PICKS. Our favourite waveenhancing styling products include: 1 ghd curve soft curl tong. 2 Kérastase L’Incroyable Blowdry. 3 Angel Rose Elastic Volume Cream. 4 Redken Curvaceous Full Swirl. 5 Helichrysum Wakening Hydration Cream.
Huntington - Whiteley HEADWAY.NET.NZ 48
Hair | TREND
Crown
of
Curls
Curls have been around for centuries, and this season they are back with a vengeance, says Sarah Simpson.
C
urls are back for 2016. Finally, poker straight locks have given way to their kinky sister who is a little wilder and a lot more unpredictable. They are not reminiscent of the popular spiral perm from the 80’s, a much softer, looser variation on the trend is taking over and we’re not complaining.
Did you know? • The first perm was performed in 1906 by German hairdresser Charles Nessler and the entire process took a whopping 12 hours to finish. • In Ancient Greek times curls were a status of femininity and beauty, and it is not uncommon to see statues and portaits of women from this time with a full head of luscious curls pinned into an ornate design.
• Curls have either a S or a Z structure. Wavy hair is more of a Z shape, whereas a tight curl has more of an S shape. Laying a lock of hair down on something flat will help you ascertain what category your curl falls into. • The curlier the hair, the more moisture it needs. Moisture struggles to make it right down the hair shaft of curly locks, meaning dryness is more common. Intense hydration by the way of masks and treatments should be a weekly beauty duty.
“Curls have categories – curly, wavy and kinky. This is one of the reasons it’s so hard to have a quick fix product to suit curly hair.”
• Curls have categories – curly, wavy and kinky. This is one of the reasons it’s so hard to have a quick fix product to suit curly hair. What works on one curl, may not on another. When it comes to curls it is definitely not a one-size-fits-all approach.
• Contrary to belief, achieving shine with your curls is possible but it takes some effort. Use a defining cream or spray to help tame your ringlets into the right direction – this forming of the curl using product will encourage light to reflect off the hair.
• The way you detangle a curl actually comes down to what type of curl you have. Fine hair with a tight curl will benefit from hair being wet and using a good dose of coconut or argan oil. Then use your fingers to detangle hair before applying conditoner. Thicker wavy hair is best treated with conditioning oils and using a Tangle Teezer to comb out any snags when hair is clean, and then style.
The ultimate tool for curly hair
• No two curls are created the same so it’s a great idea to try different products to see what your hair responds to the best. What might work for some locks, may not for others. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 50
Hair | PRODUCTS
Curl
FORCE
DE LORENZO ELEMENTS BARREL WAVE A host of feel-good ingredients including certified organic seaweed to smooth, tame and hold curls. Use this as the last step in your regime to perfect your wave.
From an S to a Z shaped curl, or a random wave, here are the top groomers.
Living Proof Curl Leave-In Conditioner
DAVINES THIS IS A CURL BUILDING SERUM
A silicone and oil-free formulation that promises to give parched curls a dose of moisture that will create a more manageable curl.
The perfect finishing touch for curls, this serum offers a glossy finish, elasticity and definition without weighing the hair down.
Redken Curvaceous for Curls Reign in unruly locks with the help of this lotion, which works to control curls, while also offering a soft hold and shine, it works well on any hair type.
JOICO CURL REFRESHED Thanks to its triple-oil complex and the optimum pH level for curls, this spray, used instead of water will help to revive flat, frizzy curls. Use inbetween washes to keep curls looking their best.
51 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
GHD STYLE CURL HOLD SPRAY Sprayed into your hair section by section, this spray will work to protect from heat damage, while also holding your curls in place without stickiness.
Angel Rose Elastic Shampoo for Curly Hair Created to repair and enhance elasticity to your curls, this shampoo with matching conditioner contains nutrients and moisturisers specifically designed to care for curly hair. Expect to see an improvement in the bounce within days.
TAKE THE ST YLE REVOLUTION TO THE NEX T LEVEL WITH THE NEWLY DESIGNED
H2D x5
PROFESSIONAL CURLING WAND
THE FIRST TRUE CERAMIC AND TOURMALINE INFUSED CURLING WAND. NOW WITH A NEW RUBBERISED FINISH
INCLUDES 5 Interchangeable Curling Barrels Now containing 32/32mm, 25/19 reverse conical, 19/19mm, double barrel wave curler and the new bubble attachment.
X 5
P R O F E S S I O N A L
C U R L I N G
Rubberised Finish Handle with Integrated Temperature Control 1 Heat Resistant Glove 2 Section Clips
Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz
W A N D
The
world of colour By LAUREN MCCOWAN, DEBORAH FRENCH, JACQUIE KILPATRICK & BILLY WHEADON FOR HAIR CARE AUSTRALIA
Hair | LAKME RENACIDO
PHOTOGRAPHER: Michael Comninus. DIGITAL ASSISTANT: Jorge Riviera. CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Lauren McCowan. STYLIST: James Dykes. MAKE-UP: Molly Oakfield
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 54
Hair | LAKME RENACIDO
55 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Zen By SASHA PANIC, VESNA IVETIC, ANTHONY WALSH, GEORGIE LANGHANS AND JENNIE DAVIES
PHOTOGRAPHER: Peter Richweisz. MAKE UP: Jojo Dantespadua. STYLIST: Barbara Zhuzhelina. SALON: Pastels Salon, Dubai www.pastels-salon.com
Hair | ZEN
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 58
Hair | ZEN
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 60
HOT By SHAUN MCGRATH AND STEVE CORTHINE
1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | POLY- POP
PHOTOGRAPHER: Ben Cook. CUT & STYLING: Shaun McGrath. COLOURIST: Steve Corthine. SALON: Stevie English Hair, New South Wales, Australia. FASHION STYLISTS: Emma Cotterill. MAKE UP ARTIST: Jenny Roberts www.stevieenglish.com.au
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 62
Hair | POLY POP
63 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
COOL By SHAUN MCGRATH AND STEVE CORTHINE
Hair | POLY- POP
PHOTOGRAPHER: Ben Cook. CUT & STYLING: Shaun McGrath. COLOURIST: Steve Corthine. SALON: Stevie English Hair, New South Wales, Australia. FASHION STYLISTS: Emma Cotterill. MAKE UP ARTIST: Jenny Roberts www.stevieenglish.com.au
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 66
Hair | POLY POP
67 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
PRAVANA comes to NEW ZEALAND
I
n the last five years, the creative colour category has seen a massive explosion in interest and technique development, thanks in large part to the sharing of ideas and inspiration through social media. From #balayage, #ombre, #ribboning and #colourmelt to #cloudhair, #unicornhair, #mermaidhair, #fairyhair #rainbowhair, #opalhair and #technicolourhair – there’s a hashtag for every conceivable look and technique. Stylists like Guy Tang, Rebecca Taylor, Erica Keelen, Rickey Zito and Shelley Gregory have built huge online followings by showcasing their skills with achieving the perfect blend of tones. Now the colour line that has enabled so many stylists to take their bright vibrants to new heights and create luscious, cotton-candy pastels is finally here in New Zealand. Pravana hair colour was born in California in 2004 with the aim of giving stylists a highperformance colour and care line that uses the best natural ingredients, biodegradable packaging, and a built-in charitable contribution with every purchase. And their innovative approach and intense, high-integrity colour has been a hit: at the prestigious 2016 BehindTheChair.com Stylist Choice Awards, Pravana cleaned up in the colour categories, sweeping Favourite Overall Colour
69 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Company, Favourite Vibrant Colour Company and Favourite Pastel Colour Line. The Chromasilk Vivids, Neons and Pastels lines are the jewels in the crown of the Pravana collec-tion, and can be intermixed to achieve any custom shade or spectrum of tones, with no need to use developer. Chromasilk Vivids give long-lasting, non-oxidative results in 10 original shades - Silver, Yellow, Or-ange, Red, Pink, Magenta, Violet, Green, Blue and Wild Orchid – plus three gorgeous jewel tones (Amethyst, Blue Topaz and Emerald) due to arrive in New Zealand later this year. Chromasilk Pastels offer five delicate shades – Pretty in Pink, Luscious Lavender, Blissful Blue, Too Cute Coral and Mystical Mint – while the Neons take pink, orange, yellow, green and blue to the next level of fluorescence. And to achieve the perfect base for any fashion colour, Pravana offers the Pure Light Powder Light-ener, and the Pure Enlightenment Balayage Kit, formulated in association with Guy Tang, that uses a unique blend of rice flour and kaolin clay to form a processing shell on the hair, keeping the light-ener moist and allowing stylists to achieve the perfect sun-kissed balayage effect. Pravana hair colour and care is available now in New Zealand exclusively through Boutique Brands - phone 0800 25 25 30.
Hair | NEW SALON
tips t o
H
1
2
Olaplex – another big winner at the BehindTheChair.com Stylist Choice Awards, taking home Prod-uct You Can’t Live Without and Favourite Bond Builder – is the ideal companion to Pravana Vivids, Neons and Pastels, helping safely and healthily create the pure blonde base that’s necessary to achieve the brightest and cleanest fashion colours.
WORDS Melinda Williams PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
Take a tip from the master of #unicornhair – Guy Tang mixes direct dyes straight into Olaplex No.2 to make perfect pastelised versions of each shade, which protect and improve the condition of the hair during processing while ensuring bright, high-shine results.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 70
Hair | QUEENSLAND
PATTI &
CO By ANDRE FAIVA
PHOTOGRAPHER: Glen Krohn. MAKE-UP: Penny Antuer. STYLIST: Sarah Birchley. SALON: Revolution Hairdressing, Brisbane www.revolutionaustralia.com.au
71 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | QUEENSLAND
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 74
Hair | QUEENSLAND
75 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hotel By GARY HOOKER AND MICHAEL YOUNG
PHOTOGRAPHER: Jack Eames. MAKE-UP: Clare Frith. STYLIST: Maddie Austin www.hookerandyoung.co.uk
Hair | QUEENSLAND Hair | HOTEL
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 78
Hair | HOTEL
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 80
Hair | HOTEL
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 82
Hair | NEW SALON
HOLLY WOOD hair
Joico spokesman and celebrity colourist Denis De Souza, shares his latest venture Mare Salon in West Hollywood.
T
he trendsetting work of Joico’s crazy-great colourist, Denis De Souza, has been splashed across magazines from coast to coast. It’s come to life on Joico’s most popular videos and has appeared on stage and in education classes. The guy is, frankly, a genius hair artist and clients can’t get enough of the colour he brings to life. Luckily for those in Los Angeles there’ll be no shortage of “Denis style” now that he’s opened the doors to his very own salon. Introducing, Mare Salon a beauty oasis in West Hollywood, where pampering is as much a priority as creating beautiful hair. In this Q&A we learn all about this industry darling and his new baby and the wisdom that prompted him to go solo (save of course for co-owner partners, celebrity hairstylists Mara Roszak and Alex Polillo). 83 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 84
Hair | NEW SALON
DE SOUZA’S SALON DEBUT Q: Denis, you’re sought after by scores of celebrities, beauty editors, and clients every single day. What made you take on the enormous adventure of opening your own salon on top of everything else you’re doing? A: Truthfully, I’ve never been one of those people who stay comfortable focusing on just one thing, which is why I’ve been juggling my busy schedule as a hair colourist and an ambassador for Joico. I truly believe the possibilities for growth in our industry are endless so for me, it was just about reaching the next step in my career and acknowledging there’s always room for more! Q: Ok, we’re curious. Why the name, Mare? A: There’s no secret behind the choice. It’s such a pretty word-in English, Mare is the feminine term for a horse; and 85 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
in my native Portuguese, it means ocean so when my two partners suggested the name, I jumped on it. Sounds so lovely, I think. Q: Tell us about your salon, what’s it like when a client walks through the doors? A: Mare is an intimate salon with only 12 chairs in total (seven for stylists, five for colourists); but we’ve turned it into a pretty special beauty oasis for our customers. Designed by Richard Petit, the salon has a definite FrancoJaponaise influence, tons of natural light; an indoor/outdoor Zen garden where clients can enjoy a cappuccino and take advantage of the California weather. I’ve been dreaming about this salon forever; and creating it took almost two years. But it’s been so worth the wait.
WORDS: Guillermo A. Güereque. PHOTOGRAPHY Stephen Busken
Hair | NEW SALON
Q: What sets your salon apart from, say, any other high-end L.A. space? A: Mare isn’t just a salon it’s a lifestyle. Everything in the salon is for sale from furniture, to art, to jewellery. Clients walk in and the vibe is chic and elegant, yet super cozy; like you’re in the gorgeous home of a best friend. In the end, we’re striving to create beauty in hair and in life. Q: Does the salon specialize in a particular look? You know that calling card that says we’re the experts in one particular hair trend? A: Our staff has a wide variety of skills and expertise if
anything, Mare’s specialty is creating refined but effortless hair; making sure clients don’t become slaves to the salon for touch-ups and can replicate their style at home. Q: What’s the one thing you’d like everyone to know about your new salon? A: It’s absolutely this: We want every client who leaves our salon to feel special and pampered; after all, they’re spending hours with us. Those should be hours well spent. Fortunately, in the short time we’ve been open, lots of clients have been complimenting us about our great energy and warmth and for me, that’s the most important thing to hear. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 88
Hair | Q & A
ENERGY BOOST
Meet the new creative director for Matrix, and discover her hair vibe.
T
he recent appointment of Hayley Pullyn, as creative director for Matrix New Zealand has caused a buzz in hair circles. Not only is she a brilliant colourist, stella stylist and all round great gal, she has her finger on the trend pulse. Pullyn talks to editor Trudi Brewer on colour, shape and style trends for the season ahead.
able to achieve the right bend in hair. Secondly, asking your hairdresser for a styling lesson is critical – they know your hair well and will be the best person to show you how to get the look.
WHAT ARE THE MOST EXCITING TRENDS WITH HAIR RIGHT NOW?
THE LOB WAS LAST YEARS ‘IT’ LOOK, NOW IT’S THE ‘WOB’. HOW DO YOU ACHIEVE THIS LOOK AT HOME?
How the harmony of hair colour and the cut has returned. The shape at the moment is a blunt, chin length bob. The style is very classic, but this time around it has an edgy twist. Super straight or wavy, combined with a middle part, or an exaggerated side part, this cut is defined by the way it is styled. Pair that with an on-trend colour and it has the making for the hottest hair of the moment - think fashion blogger attending a runway show. For a more directional look, an undercut or hair tattooing also works in a bob. Recently hair has been all about the colour and styling, or the cut, but re-imagining how we colour our hair complements the cut and will bring the style to life.
WHERE IS COLOUR HEADED THIS SEASON? The one thing that will remain on-trend this season is that hair colour will either be extremely natural or quite obviously fake. There is quite a shift in the way we see pastels and fluoro colour trends. Move over unicorn hair and strobing. Technicolour techniques will shine this season, with pops of grungy pastel colours. Those pastel shades are looking more earthy and watercolourinspired, and much less vibrant or ‘poppy’. Dusky pink, lilac and rose gold will also be popular this season. The trend for our clients is still ombré but even softer. Think foiling or micro-weaves in multi-dimensional, pastel blondes.
WE ARE SEEING A MORE RELAXED WAVE IN HAIR RIGHT NOW, HOW DO WOMEN TRANSITION FROM STRAIGHT TO WAVY? Firstly, if you have shorter layers in your hair, you’ll need to grow these out a bit. Wavy hair needs some length to be 89 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
hay
For those with natural wave, it’s as easy as having a texture or a salt based type product, and then dry your hair with a diffuser. Alternatively, for a heat styled result, use a conical wand, to create the perfect wave. When using the wand, take sections on a diagonal and wrap the hair around the wand away from the face, this gives a more modern look to the wave.
s
e fav s ’ y le 1
2
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MATRIX STYLING COCKTAIL TO BRING OUT NATURAL MOVEMENT? Using the Matrix Style Link range, I love a cocktail of Matrix Style Link Smooth Setter with Matrix Style Link Hold Booster. This combination limits frizz and promotes hold. It is also a great combination for enhancing your own natural movement. Then finish by layering Matrix Style Link Texture Builder into the finished dry style.
3
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO CARE FOR HAIR DURING WINTER? It’s too easy. Invest in an in-salon treatment at the same time as your cut and colour service. Follow that up with the right home hair-care range. And if you can handle a cool blast of the hair dryer once you’ve styled your hair do it, this helps close the cuticle layers in your hair, preventing frizz and locking in the style.
WHAT IS YOUR BEST HAIR TIP? Towel-dry your hair after shampooing, but before conditioning. This allows the active ingredients in your conditioner to penetrate deep into the hair. If you don’t do this, you are essentially diluting your product with excess water.
1 Matrix Style Link Texture Builder. 2 Matrix Style Link Smooth Setter. 3 Matrix Total Results Texture Games Sea Salt Spray.
Hair | Q & A
5
MINUTES WITH...
Kristal Sargent owner of La Villa Hairdressing and Extensions in Petone, Lower Hutt shares her passions for business and pleasure.
pleasure of working with my crazy team of stylists. And having the honour of discovering people from all walks of life.
T
here is a hive of activity in Petone, a superbly renovated heritage building, and in it a Frenchinspired salon that is humming. With an extensive range of hair and beauty services the creator and owner of this haven, Kristal Sargent, shares her secret to success.
Trust your gut instincts; it will guide you in the right direction. With this in mind, you don't even need to try and trust the people around you; it will happen naturally. Be honest and fair, work with high integrity, and you will never go wrong. Stay creative in all aspects, lead with confidence, and have fun.
Life
I love being in beautiful, whimsical surroundings that allow your senses to get lost in a world of fantasy. We live in such a busy, serious world; it's nice to indulge in some time-out for a couple of hours. That was my vision, for my clients, my staff and myself.
DESCRIBE LA VILLA IN 10 WORDS? unique,
WHAT'S YOUR BIGGEST BUSINESS CHALLENGE? I would have to say finding cruelty-free products to use in the salon (we are extreme animal lovers here). Also, building the salon reputations and client base, from humble beginnings, (a cute little building on our property at home), to what it is today - an award winning destination.
CAREER HIGH TO DATE? Winning New Zealand Salon of the year and personally winning business stylist of the year. That was amazing for me, and I will be forever grateful.
BEST PART OF YOUR JOB? Creating art every day on our wonderful clients, and the
HOW DO YOU SWITCH OFF AND RELAX? I light a New Zealand made soy candle from Es-sense. Put on some of my favourite music, yummy food, and hang out with my dog Milo. I try to add meditation in when I can too.
THE BEST WAY TO SPEND A DAY OFF? Catching up with friends and family is always great. I often pick my mum up and travel to the Wairarapa for a nice lunch and glass of rosĂŠ, and of course, we stop at a few shops along the way. I also love spending time away from the concrete jungle. For me refuelling the tank and feeling grounded, is a walk out to a waterfall, along the river, or through the bush.
FAVOURITE BAR? The Cavern Club in Te Aro, Wellington is awesome. My Dad introduced this place to me some years ago, we often still stop in and enjoy the music and a glass of something yummy. The Library on Courtenay Place, Wellington is also a favourite for a calm, more intimate experience, the cocktails and desserts are to die for. @THELIBRARYWELLINGTON
WHERE DID YOU GET THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR BEAUTIFUL SALON?
@CAVERNCLUBNZ
Business
Soulful, uplifting, energetic, fun, divine, enchanting, exquisite, reputable and exciting.
BEST BUSINESS ADVICE?
90 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Hair | Q & A
1
“Trust your gut instincts; it will guide you in the right direction. Be honest and fair. And stay creative in all aspects, lead with confidence, and have fun.”
2
Hair
FAVOURITE WINTER LOOK? Long waves and warm moody, blonde colour.
STYLING PRODUCT? Amika Undone Texture Spray (1), it's perfect for my Wellington lifestyle.
SHAMPOO? Theorie Argan Oil Ultimate Reform (2).
FAVOURITE RESTAURANT?
TREATMENT PRODUCT?
Indian at Maharajas in Cuba Street, Wellington or Chilli Masala, High Street, Lower Hutt - it’s an equal tie.
Tigi Bed Head Anti-Dotes Resurrection.
FAVOURITE TIPPLE?
Kat Von D Tattoo Eyeliner from Sephora.
Bubbles.
BEST CHEAP EAT? Aunty Mena’s vegan restaurant or Midnight Expresso, both are on Cuba Street, Wellington. The best part is, they are right opposite each other!
Style
WHAT’S YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE?
BEAUTY MUST HAVE? SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE? I don't know how I feel admitting this but here goes... Britney Spears Fantasy (3).
3
BEST HAIR TIP? Leave it to the professionals. http://lavilla.co.nz/
A mix between slightly hippy, with a dash of tasteful.
FAVOURITE NEW ZEALAND DESIGNER Meadowlark.
PLACE TO SHOP? Neon Gypsy in Tauranga for clothes, and Silver Surfer in Tauranga for jewellery.
DAY TO DAY FASHION LOOK? It all starts with hair and makeup. If I am feeling a little boho, loose waves with the sides pinned back to the middle, and earthy-looking makeup. If it’s a Nu-Goth kind of day, hair is straight, or up in a textured style with smoky eyes. Sometimes I mix it all together.
Culture
FAVOURITE WEBSITE? www.circleofwolves.bigcartel.com and www.rebelsmarket.com
INSTAGRAM STALK? MUST HAVE GADGET? Phone charger.
TRAVEL DESTINATION? New Zealand, Takaka, and Napier. Off shore, Italy.
CELEBRITY CRUSH? Tom Hardy. He is all that and a bag of potato chips.
91 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
@jenatkinhair
Hair | BUSINESS
Sanity &
prof it
The key to running a successful business is to work on the business more than in the business, says Larissa Macleman.
1
Larissa Macleman shares the six steps to achieve business and life balance.
LOVE WHAT YOU DO
This is an obvious one that gets ignored all too often. When you truly enjoy what you do, work doesn’t feel like work and you’ll feel motivated to get things done. Delegate or outsource those things that you hate or procrastinate over or that you are bad at – spend your time doing what you love and do best. Free yourself from the grind.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
2
FIND A NOOK
Get out of the four walls you are in every day. Work on things that will really propel your business forward, get out of the customer and staff based workplace and find yourself an inspiring-space. Your busy business is distracting you from your full potential. Beautiful, clean and tidy spaces promote productivity and efficiency and put you in the right mindset. Whether it’s a cafe or a really nice space at home that you know you can dive into getting things done, make your chosen zone a regular place you go to. Soon it will signal to your busy mind “it’s time to focus”. Your staff and clients will cope without you for a short while. Don’t trick yourself into thinking if you work solidly for two hours straight you’ll get more done. It’s simply not true. Your brain needs a break on a regular basis. In fact, ideally you will stay focussed for only 25 minutes before you take a mini break of five minutes.
3
on the vision, where it all started. When a task seems unachievable, I break it down into smaller bites. Find the issue, break it down, and overcome it little by little.
4
USE TECHNOLOGY THAT’S AVAILABLE TO YOU
I love technology and there are so many amazing things available to us today. I know I’m perfectly capable of doing everything on my own. But why should I? Automate everything you can, from accounting processes, client reminders and auto responses in emails to Facebook messages to sales (online shopping and online bookings). It’s worth the effort and time investment upfront to save many hours later.
"I help stylists and salon owners with social media strategies, access to the latest technology and how to work smarter, not harder in your salon business."
VISION AND PRODUCTIVITY ARE RELATED
For me, productivity always dropped when I lost sight of the what and the why. Sometimes I hit a wall and just can’t move forward on a project or decision I need to make. I’ve learned when this happens, it’s time to go back to the beginning and get really clear
5
EXERCISE WITH A SIDE OF PRODUCTIVITY
When I’m busy the first thing to be dropped is exercise. But it’s so good for your body and mind. A solution I’ve used from time to time when I need to catch-up with someone or have a meeting is to suggest having a walking meeting. Instead of sitting in a cafe or the office, we go walking instead, get a takeaway coffee then continue to walk and talk. An added bonus is burning off the coffee and sugar calories at the same time.
6
SELF-CARE
Lastly, your body is what will carry you through this marathon of life and running your business. Take care of it. Get regular exercise, eat a good diet and make sure you’re allowing yourself plenty of time to sleep. There is no “magical secret” to creating more time or making more money. For me, it is about actively carving out time for the most important things that will make the most impact. I enjoy a routine that is flexible enough to satisfy my creative outbursts and allows time to get the most important things done that will grow my business & profit exponentially. 92 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
# Business | SUCCESS
SUCCESS
For most of us the goal is working smarter and not harder. Here is his secret to business success from Andrus Nomm at Kitomba.
D
o you know how successful your business is? How do you measure success? In reality, few businesses have a solid measured approach to determining success. Sure healthy revenue and breaking even are a helpful guide, but how can you tell that your business is working? Follow these steps below.
REBOOKING RATE For your team, it ensures a pre-booked column, job security and motivation from constantly being in demand. For your business, you’re securing future income so you can make decisions with confidence. An increase in visit frequency and a reduction in time, energy and money spent finding new clients will boost profits. Regular visits mean you’ll develop better relationships, they’ll get appointment times that suit them and overall their hair and beauty maintenance will be improved. However, the most important part of measuring your rebooking rate is how you define it. So rebooking your client before they leave the salon is a priority as once they walk through the door, the chances they’ll book within that period dramatically decreases. If your client books multiple appointments in advance, it’s a massive bonus for your business!
RETENTION RATE Client retention is all about creating loyal clients through providing 93 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
high-quality service and a fantastic experience. Loyal, long-term clients, are important to business as they tend to spend more, cost less and make valuable referrals to new clients. We recommend having online booking as it gives your clients the convenience of being able to book whenever - even outside of business hours. If you think they still need reminding, a personalised text or email will do the trick.
REVISIT PERIOD The length of time between appointments has an impact on your annual revenue and reducing it by even the shortest amount of time will result in a massive jump in revenue. Here’s an example: If your annual revenue is $400,000 and your average revisit period is eight weeks, reducing it by just one day (seven weeks and six days) will increase your annual revenue by $7,200. So your annual revenue will increase by a massive $56,000.
NEW CLIENT RATE New clients are the lifeblood of any business as they tie directly to revenue. A consistent increase in clients allows you to be sure of business growth. Take a look at your new client rate. It should be sitting at 10 percent. Why? Because natural attrition sits at around 10% so to balance this, you need at least 10 percent of the clients. If your percentage is low and you regularly have gaps in your
appointment book, maybe it’s time to kick off some marketing activities like running an ‘introduce a friend’ promotion or try some online advertising such as Google AdWords or Facebook ads. On the flipside if you find your new client rate is low but you’re fully booked weeks in advance, your business has reached capacity.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
CLIENT RETAIL ATTACHMENT Increasing the percentage of clients that purchase retail can seriously change your bottom line. Take a look at your client retail attachment percentage and determine a goal for how much you want to increase this. For example, if it’s sitting at 10%, why not challenge your team to increase this to 25%? That’s just a quarter of their clients that they need to convert, so it’s achievable. Being successful in attaching retail to your services simply has a lot to do with your overall approach. Your clients are looking for guidance and direction when it comes to products. Tell them which product you’re using and why you’ve chosen it, ensure your client understands how much to use, and how to apply it. This goes a long way in reinforcing the fact that they should be walking out the door with a product. Andrus Nomm is the Marketing Manager at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software, New Zealand’s number one salon and spa software provider. To learn more about Kitomba, visit www.kitomba.com or call 0800 161 101.
LOOKING FOR MORE INFORMATION?
DIRECTORY
FURTHER DETAILS ON OUR INDUSTRY PARTNERS
M O R M F APA FROPS S R R RR U U O YOUOEU O TTOOHY OM ME HO
ed lop deve g een innin -w ve b te s ha ward crea AR. ed re P duct at a lop pro pists you to ith AS e eve g iv nd act thera urage ind w bee -winnin ically ise by enco nd unw e tan rt a o.nzve te d r f bo expe lia. W relax a the roup.cha o d n ra n on eg ts wa cre R. ctio re an Aust e and atio lfcaruc at a u to re ASPA form @seod colle h ca und om e in l infopr This pa wit s aro al at h o ists mor ith a for or em . tiaive erap age y d w5 p.m in-s ra Sp a ritu st or 5 10y7 ac sp ur ocki win5 4:30:1 y th Auro own t st 00 10all r e b e enco nd un1/10/201 ares on 08nic you ta .nz rtis ur ne yo act us e .co bo expe lia. W elax a ils on contof n th group r a deta ngeon no and ustr and For AR ra cti atio lfcare SP Ac olle h care und A ome form @se re in ail info This pa wit s aro al at h mo a for or em r o in-s ra Sp pa ritu 107 kist o s toc 0 105 Aur own st s 0 r eare n 08 you ur n us o
dd
Body
.indd
Issue
:15
4:30 015
/2
1/10
ct n yo ils o conta deta nge For AR ra ASP
2
FP.in
2
e FP
Body
Issu
Editor's letter
Hot off the press this issue, we’re proud INDUSTRY to present the New Zealan finalists of the d Hairdressing fabulous group Awards 2016 of talent they – and what are. The qualit competition a is outstanding y of work in this year’s and the event celebrating the announcing winners on May and features a super8th – INDU STRY Extrac hot line-up ted - also of local and Check out the internationa beautiful photo l artists. graphic looks (page 42). in Creativity Unleashed I’m also really excited about the revamped Trophy Award L’Oréal Style s coming up & Colour in July. With revised forma additional catego t (which includ ries, a es no live recrea submissions ), and the oppor tion - just photo tunity for the graphic against other winner to test global winne their skills rs at the grand is truly enterin final in Portug g a fresh and al, the event inspiring new details on how phase. We have to enter and all the what to expect on page 40. This edition , we get up close and personal hairdressing with internationa royalty Tracey Hugh l Souza and Mark es, Angelo Semin Leeson, hone ara, Denis de in on the major trends for 2016, makeup and and investigate beauty skincare produ what really consti cts. tutes 'organic' We also take a look at the lucrative male perspective. market from The global trend a beauty seeing men appearance has more focuse led to an increa d on their sed awareness how to make the most of and understandi all their physic ng of (page 8 in beauty al assets. Man ) highlights Oh Man the importance growing segme of catering to nt, while The this everCosme explores curren t trends in appea tic Manscape (page 12 in beauty) rance medic ine for the guys. Last issue, we introduced Trudi Consultant, Brewer as our but for new Creative Managing Editor the coming year, Trudi will be taking , as I embark over as on my most (and scary!) challenging, role to date – that of a Mum. exciting hands during You’ll be in my absence, fantastic and I plans in the works for Headw know Trudi has lots of exciting ay 2016/17. Enjoy our autum n issue and look forward Trophy in July. to seeing Clearly, I can't you at Colou keep away! r
hat you’ve al ways done, ColourSystem
but better.
® s
Charmaine
astic REE For
style inspir ation and news, join facebook.c us at om/headw aymagazin instagram.c e or om/headw aymagazin e
l mobile: 021 906 647 l email: info@ ww.organicc organiccolou oloursystem rstystems.co s.co.nz .nz
.
p.m
Angel Professional 07 847 8350 sales@phb.net.nz www.phb.net.nz
Kevin Murphy 09 525 1075 info@crewdistributors.co.nz www.crewdistributors.co.nz
ASPAR 09 579 5188 info@selfcare.co.nz www.selfcare.co.nz
Living Proof 0800 169 600 info@dateline.co.nz www.dateline.co.nz
Breast Cancer Cure 0800 227 828 www.breastcancercure.org.nz
L’Oreal Professionnel www.lorealprofessionnel.co.nz
Combined Salon Supplies 0800 10 15 24 www.cssonline.co.nz
OBSERV Skin Diagnostic Device 09 817 4807 info@margaretwalshconsulting.co.nz www.margaretwalshconsulting.co.nz
De Lorenzo 07 847 8350 sales@phb.net.nz www.phb.net.nz
Organic Colour Systems 0508 423 737 info@organiccoloursystems.co.nz www.organiccoloursystems.co.nz
Elizabeth Arden PRO 09 579 5188 info@selfcare.co.nz www.selfcare.co.nz
Pravana 03 375 1070 hello@boutiquebrands.co.nz www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
Inverse Hair 0800 53 73 73 hello@inversehair.com www.inversehair.com
Refectocil 09 579 5188 info@selfcare.co.nz www.selfcare.co.nz
Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care 09 579 5188 info@joyceblok.co.nz www.joyceblok.co.nz
Rodney Wayne 09 358 4644 admin@rodneywayne.co.nz www.rodneywayne.co.nz
16
#getglossy
Karen Murrell sales@karenmurrell.com www.karenmurrell.com
with NEW Technology, breakthrough ArgiPlex the inside out with ed! transforms hair from healthier hair - guarante Joico LumiShine longevity and overall ing shine, color delivering astonish twice the shine* • Hair with up to thened hair** shampoos** ed and restreng for up to 30 full shine • 100% replenish and , softness n that seals in moisture • Nourishing protectio
about LumiShine “I love everything ncy, brilliant transpare the rich color with the easy-to-apply the sweet scent, name it.” Celebrity consistency, you Souza, Andy Colorist Denis de West Hollywood Lecompte Salon,
healthy-looking scent to the rich, “From the exquisite haircoloring e elevates the entire results, LumiShin of luxury and whole new level Ramirez, experience to a Colorist Johnny performance.” Celebrity Beverly Hills Ramirez Tran Salon,
/JoicoNZ n call 0800 4 JOICO
For more informatio * Vs. untreated hair.
** Based on laboratory
(56256)
testing of damaged
hair.
@joicoaustralianz
JOICO.CO.NZ
Sothys 0800 SOTHYS www.sothys.co.nz
ONE STOP SHOP FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSERS
Largest range of Major Brand Products • accessories • furniture • electrical equipment
Your Total HAIR&BEAUTY Supplier Shop Online
NOW!
WE ARE IN YOUR AREA! AUCKLAND Ellerslie - 09-525-3315 Toll Free - 0508-525-331 North shore - 09-443-2861 Toll Free - 0508-443-286 Avondale - 09-827-1604 Toll Free - 0508-827-160
NAPIER 06-844-5512 Toll Free - 0508-844-551
WELLINGTON 04-473-3799 Toll Free - 0508-473-379
HAMILTON 07-850-8130 Toll Free - 0508-850-813
TAURANGA 07-928-0581 Toll Free - 0508-928-058
CHRISTCHURCH 03-379-9998 Toll Free - 0508 - 379-999
SAME DAY DELIVERY (RURAL AREAS 24 HRS)
TOTAL BEAUTY SUPPLIES HAS THE LATEST IN SALON FURNITURE as well as all your hairdressing and beauty essentials
TOTAL BEAUTY SUPPLIES GREAT PRODUCTS GREAT PEOPLE
www.tbs.co.nz
COMBINED SALON SUPPLIES LTD /totalbeautysupplies
Indola Joico Juuce Keratin Complex KMS Lilash L’Oréal Matrix Nioxin Refectocil Redken Salon Equipment Salon Smart Schwarzkopf Tigi Vita 5 Wahl Wella
0800 HAIRMARKET (0800 424 762)
161 Central Park Drive, Henderson, Auckland Freephone 0800 180 190
ALL YOU NEED IS HAIR
Affinge American Crew Clairol Cloud Nine Dax Wax D:Fl Dancoly Dark and Lovely Denman De Lorenzo Dread Wax Fancifull Forma Wave Fudge GHD Goldwell Handy Foil Hair Extensions
Fax 06 359 2168 Email hairmarket@clear.net.nz 8 Waldegrave Street PO BOX 9114, Palmerston North
www.hairmarket.co.nz
Normally $13.95inc Now only
Design your in-salon menu from over 80 different fine teas at www.harneyteas.co.nz or call (09) 412 2515 to request complimentary samples and discuss a wholesale account today.
$32.95inc for 3 Average $10.98inc each Discount of 21% Contact your nearest stockist AR Distributors - Nelson 03 547 7707 Salon Warehouse - Auckland 09 447 1655 Progressive Salon Supplies - Christchurch 03 379 9735
KISSED BY NATURAL BEAUT Y
KAREN MURRELL
Natural Lipsticks NO Coal Tar
NO Carmine
NO Mineral Oils
NO Triclosan
NO BBP’s
NO Parabens
Cruelty Free
DESIGNED IN NEW ZEALAND
Karen Murrell natural lipsticks offer the perfect combination of great staying power and true glamour. Made from avocado oil, evening primrose oil, candelilla, carnauba wax, cinnamon and sweet orange your lips are treated with every application. Available online and from selected pharmacies and health stores nationwide.
BRIGHT NOW... Reveal a more radiant complexion with the enhanced skin renewing action of Joyce Blok’s Alpha-Beta Radiance range. The combination of effective exfoliation and improved moisture retention that this range offers will help make a visible difference in skin that is dull, uneven and etched with fine lines and wrinkles. Utilising malic acid from the humble apple, this is the perfect rejuvenation programme this season. Alpha-Beta Radiance is the complete solution for softer, smoother, fresher and healthier looking skin – in short, a renewed complexion.
“
“I just had to tell you, the Alpha-Beta Clear Skin Gel works amazing on adult acne skin. I love this product. The difference in 2 days has been amazing, all the bumps under my skin have smoothed off. Now I am going to try your other products!” (Yolande - Wellington Joyce Blok user)
0800 105 107
Call us for more information on our product ranges or to find out how you can become a stockist of Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care E info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz •
facebook.com/joyceblok
Beauty
PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT & SERUM
photos : jean-françois verganti · jean-baptiste guiton · saicle · 652621 · Maugein iMpriMeurs - tulle · 03/16 · sothys paris, siège social et institut de beauté, 128 rue du faubourg saint honoré, f 75008 paris - siren 451 170 807 rcs paris. non contractual pictures.
PERFECT SHAPE Specially formulated to refine and contour the shape of the face and décolleté.
A UNISEX TREATMENT PROGRAMME For men, this treatment can be perfectly adapted to target double chin concerns.
SMOOTHES AND REJUVENATES THE DECOLLETE:
95%*
REDEFINES THE FACE OVAL:
90%*
Exclusively in beauty institutes & spas.
www.sothys.co.nz * satisfaction rate. test on 20 subjects after 1 treatMent
LUSH LASHES If you’re craving a fuller brow or feel like your lashes need some length and volume, then this serum is a must-try. With a peptide complex not to mention a boost of vitamins, this clear serum works to maximize fuller, longer and darker lashes and brows. Medik8 Full Lash & Brow Duo. www.medik8.com
lovely lips
Beauty news
By SARAH SIMPSON.
Beautiful brows
There’s no excuse for bad brows now that The BrowGal is on the scene. The range contains everything you need to get the best power brow, even a pair of brow-grooming scissors that rival all others. We love the Skinny Eyebrow Pencil which is perfect for filling in any gaps your brows may have, while also defining your arch and shape. www.aboutface.co.nz/shop/the-brow-gal
7 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
The weather may be chilly but this new shade from Karen Murrell is bound to bring some sunshine to your day. It promises to suit any skin type or complexion with its warm coffee brown and blush pink tones. Karen Murrell Lipstick in Orchid Bloom. www.karenmurrell.com
CLOCK
This foundation ticks the boxes in so many ways. It’s perfect post-procedure after skin treatments. And also for anyone who craves nourishing for dry winter skin. Thanks to the LYCO-Complex, a set of 12 active ingredients that deliver moisture and nutrients to the skin, this is the epitome of science and makeup colliding. World Beaute 0800 33 888 3 sales@worldbeaute.co.nz
OU ND TH R A
E
Makeup your skin will love
PROTECT
Beauty | NEWS
Busy women on the run will love this two in one cream from Fleur De Mer Suncreen in Foundation Cream, which offers exceptional foundation coverage along with built in 50+ sun protection. Stop premature ageing, hyper pigmentation and wrinkles in their tracks with this matte finish foundation. World Beaute 0800 33 888 3 sales@worldbeaute.co.nz
SOTHY’S TURNS 70 1 SOTHYS ESSENTIAL AMPOULES Following on from their successful professional ampoules, this anti-ageing and hydrating take-home set can easily be incorporated into your daily regime. These are travel-friendly and specialise in brightening and hydrating.
te celebra 0 this thys who turns 7
thday to S o ir b y p p a h y er v A ience- b ased sc to t en m it m m co year. With their g luxury sta tus, in in a et r o ls a e il skincare, wh around the glob e. ed v lo is d n a r b is it’s no surprise th 2 SOTHYS PERFECT SHAPE YOUTH SERUM
Contact: info@despacosmatics.co.nz or 0800 768 497
Designed to smooth skin facial contours and the decollete, thanks to a raft of active ingredients that reshape and refresh skin that needs firming. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 8
Sugar cane cleanse New from Pure Fiji comes their Perfecting Cleanser, which sounds good enough to eat. Derived from sugar cane, this cleanser is also bursting with papaya and passionflower to brighten and restore your skins luminosity. www.nz.purefiji.com
THREE CHEERS Fernandez Skincare guru, Dr Des Fernandez founder of Environ skincare has another award to add to his collection after recently winning ‘Innovation Leader of the Year in the Product category’ at the INNOCOS 2016 event. Not one to take all the credit, he accepted the award on behalf of his team too, saying, “Since 1990, the amazing Environ team and I have made every effort to make the best cosmetic product in the world.”
TH DE YOU W New to Environ come two new products that promise to help shave years off your complexion. Youth EssentiA Vita-Peptide C-Quence Serum 1 and Youth EssentiA Antioxidant Defence Crème both work to visibly reduce signs of ageing thanks to their Step-Up System which is designed to help skin become gradually more comfortable with increased levels of vitamin A. www.psb.net.nz
9 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Beauty | NEWS
Peel & Reveal There isn’t much that the range of Algologie skin peels won’t be able to do for your skin thanks to its impressive sea-based ingredient line-up. The pineapple and papaya enzymes dissolve on the skin, so expect radiance. Followed closely by the Lactic and Malic Fruit Acids (AHA’s) which work hard to accelerate the results. Salicylic Acid is added into the mix to decongest your skin, while Chondrus Crispus, a seaweed extract has been added to remineralise. Contact World Beaute 0800 33 888 3 sales@worldbeaute.co.nz
MINERAL RICH SKINCARE If your face and body is craving some rebalancing then this treatment is an essential. Algologie’s Algae Maceration is solely made up of 100% natural Fucus seaweed which boasts an incredible reputation for being rich in vitamins, proteins and minerals. Apply liberally to your face and body to boost your skin immunity. World Beaute 0800 33 888 3 sales@worldbeaute.co.nz
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
EL AXING SALTS R R A D N E V A L R A SP A R’s Lavendar A SP A , on ti xa la re dy ll bo For the ultimate in fu pa tchouli, and the of ts n hi h it W . st u m a Relaxing Salts are g salts will in at li fo ex e es th r, da n calming ef fects of lave . buff skin to perfection
Contact: Self Care Group on 0800 105 107 HEADWAY.NET.NZ 10
Beauty | TREND
The Multitaskers The face of make-up has changed. And the good news is that your skin is going to love it, says Sarah Simpson.
MINERAL MAKEUP When mineral powders came on the scene, there was an instant cult following. Finally, a formulation that was gentle enough to use on each and every different skin type-sensitive and compromised included - yet offering amazing coverage. Added to this was the fact they also offered a physical sunscreen, which meant protecting skin from the harsh UV rays. These powders are made from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxide particles; the same ingredients you will find in physical sunscreens, yet their clever formulation means they double as foundation. And thanks to a short, densley packed brush you can buff powder around the nose, and chin where fingers often miss. The best application is buffed in circular movements to achieve a flawless make-up finish, while being assured that your sun care is taken care of too.
LIP CARE
When it comes to lip colour in today’s beauty world, the colour component of the product has been preceded by a long list of beneficial oils, butters, vitamins and antioxidants. Now added into the formulation, it has really shifted the humble lippy to new healthy heights. Essentially a one-stop-shop for your lips, you can now achieve not only the aesthetic element of beautiful colour but also gain hydration, SPF and antioxidant protection, all in one quick glo-minerals slick. Whether you want a shiny gloss Luxe Liquid finish or are tempted with a matte Foundation formula, these lipsticks promise you incredible coverage all the while working at a deeper level to ensure your lips are feeling better for wearing it.
“Makeup infused with skincare will tint and correct your complexion”.
Ultraceuticals Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF30+ Sheer Tint Jane Iredale Amazing Base Foundation SPF20
SERUM FOUNDATIONS
Liquid foundation lovers rejoiced when they could kill two birds with one stone, thanks to the clever invention of serum foundations. After the launch of BB, CC and DD creams that introduced us to the idea of skin-correcting coverage, hot on their heels came a foundation that felt like a second skin. With the benefits of a serum and the colour and coverage payoff of a foundation, skincare and beauty companies knew they were onto a good thing. Best applied using a brush to buff the product in; these liquids will offer a sheer veil of coverage whilst also providing your skin with the added anti-ageing benefits that a serum traditionally gives you. Now that is clever!
Colorescience Sunforgettable Mineral Finishing Powder SPF 50
11 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
HydroPeptide Perfecting Gloss
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
I
n times gone by there was the internal battle of whether to follow a strict skincare regime in order to achieve beautiful skin, or simply cover up problematic skin with layers of treatment makeup. The gods must have heard our plight, because there are now products that will do both. Make-up infused with skincare ingredients landed in our laps, and the conundrum has been solved. The time it takes to get ready has been shaved in half, and skin is looking better than ever.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 12
FASHION FOR A CURE
FASHION FOR A CURE IS ONE OF THE MANY WAYS THAT WE FUND RESEARCH INTO FINDING A CURE
HAMILTON • WELLINGTON • CHRISTCHURCH • QUEENSTOWN SEVEN DESIGNERS. ONE NIGHT. ONE ROOM. ONE CAUSE RESERVE TICKETS ONLINE WWW.BREASTCANCERCURE.ORG.NZ PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY
Beauty | PROFILE
MOISTURE
SHOT 30’s
The hands and neck show the telltale signs of age, before any other area on the body, says Trudi Brewer.
W
hen it comes to hydrating skin, two areas of the body are hard to treat, the hands and neck. Moisturisers give temporary smoothness, but to change the look and texture of skin, appearance medicine is where you can see permanent change. Dr Catherine Stone from The Face Place shares the changes and treatments you may expect to see at any age.
In your 30's you might start to notice the skin thinning a little on your neck and hands, this is the best time to start using an SPF 30+ sunscreen every day. Add a good quality vitamin A and vitamin C serum on your hands and face, a simple tip is to use any remaining product from your face and just run your hands down your neck and chest, and then rub the last bit of product on the backs of your hands. If you have a family history of 'turkey necks', now might be a good time to start using wrinkle-relaxing injections to soften the platysma muscle of the neck that creates those 'turkey neck bands'.
14 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Beauty | PROFILE
40’s
You will probably be noticing your jawline is starting to sag a little in the front, and either you're developing those pesky 'turkey neck' platysmal bands, or your double chin might be starting to show. The horizontal 'necklace lines' are starting to etch in, and the skin is becoming a little more wrinkled. You should be continuing your preventive measures with skincare but may consider more 'in-clinic' procedures such as injectable 'skin boosters' to improve the skin's texture and collagen production; skin tightening with energy based devices using radiofrequency, ultrasound or laser; or fat destroying technologies for your double chin. Fine dermal fillers can be used to soften the 'necklace lines'; while regular exfoliating treatments such as nutritional peels, or skin cell stimulating treatments like dermal needling and PRP can help improve the crepey skin. Avoid spraying perfume on the neck, as it can react with the sun to cause a chemical irritation and result in a relatively common condition called Poikiloderma of Civatte, where brown and red patches develop on the skin on either side of the neck, which are difficult to treat. Instead, spritz your perfume onto your clothes before you put them on, or put it at the back of your head, above your hairline. Hands start to lose their plumpness, and the tendons, bones and veins start to become more visible as the skin thins more, and the supporting fat under the tissues becomes depleted. Skin boosters such as PRP (platelet-rich plasma), injectable HA (hyaluronic acid) or the new combo of both called Cellular Matrix PRP, can help to thicken the skin and improve its youthful glow.
50's
You may continue to get good results with the less invasive treatments, but if you have neglected your neck, or you are just not genetically blessed, your neck may have become more saggy, especially at the front, with loss of definition of the jawline. The development of jowls, and brown spots, especially if you were a sun lover in the past will start to show. Try IPL, laser or dry ice (although the dry ice will often leave white scars instead), on brown spots, or a more surgical approach, with either liposuction (for double chins) or a surgical neck lift (for a saggy neck). Hands can become more skeletal (Madonna’s hands are an extreme example of this) due to progressive loss of the supporting tissues, so a dermal filler might be useful to plump up the tissues and replace the fat. While skin boosters can sometimes be used via a specialised 'gun injector' to thicken the skin of the fingers, and the back of the hands.
EACH MONTH THERE ARE NEW AND EXCITING TECHNOLOGIES AVAILABLE IN THE QUEST TO HOLD BACK THE AGEING PROCESS. Stone shares the latest.
ThermiTight uses a tiny wand with a heating radiofrequency tip to precisely heat the supporting tissues of the neck (the SMAS, which is what is lifted and tightened in a surgical neck lift), and at the same time melts small pockets of fat under the chin and tightens the skin. Our initial results have been pretty impressive, however it does take about 6-12 months to see the full results. ThermiTight is FDA approved and has been actively used in the US and Canada for over three years with incredibly positive feedback, and has just received TGA approval in Australia. For those with excessive sub-mental fat (the fatty bulge under the chin), a new injectable treatment called Kybella uses bile salts to 'melt'
15 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
the fat under the chin, and should be available in Australia and New Zealand at the end of this year. It is similar to an old treatment called injection lipolysis, which uses phosphitidyl choline to melt the fat. Both treatments give significant swelling and bruising for a couple of weeks. And there is Coolsculpting treatments, which use a special hand piece to freeze the fat under the skin, this is another option for removing extra fat under the chin.
your body to repair the skin) with HA (hyaluronic acid, which provides hydration and also stimulates your skin cells to produce collagen and elastin). And Syneron ELOS system, which combines IPL to erase the brown spots, with radiofrequency and diode laser to boost the skin rejuvenation. We have seen some exciting results so far.
AND FOR THE HANDS?
AND WHAT IS THE NEXT GENERATION OF TREATMENTS LOOKING LIKE IN THE FUTURE?
Combining injectable skin boosters to improve the skin and replace lost fatty tissue, with IPL to treat the brown spots and boost the results of your skin rejuvenation. We are using Cellular Matrix PRP as our skin booster, as it combines PRP (your own platelets and plasma which tell
Using your own stem cells will be the future of cosmetic and regenerative medicine, however at the moment the medical community is not completely convinced about the safety of manipulating these cells. This is an area we are watching with interest.
PHOTOGRAPHY Svetography / Shutterstock
WHAT ADVANCES IN TECHNOLOGY ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT FOR TREATING THE NECK?
Headway | PROMOTION
Beauty’s THE BIG REVEAL
Best
of the Best
Spring 2016 Headway launches the ‘Professional Beauty Edit’. The ultimate guide for hair, face, body & nails. 1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Beauty | SKIN
Winter
A-peel By SHARLEEN SINGH
T
he key to your clients embracing skin peels this winter is in your ability to recommend, and explain the process, without mentioning the word, ‘peel’. A skin peel is either an acidbased synthetic chemical or fruit, vegetable or milk derivative, and applied to the face these solutions will peel away the top layer of skin. This terminology can be terrifying to sensitive clients, so it’s important to know how to convey peels in a positive light. Better known, as a 'rejuvenating skin boost', today’s peels refresh and reinvigorate skin, and allow a natural glow to shine through. They also increase cell turnover, which can address problematic breakouts, acne, wrinkles, and general dullness. With winter well and truly here, it’s time to brush up on your peel IQ.
WHY IS WINTER THE BEST TIME TO PEEL? The months of June, July and August are the perfect time as the skin will heal quickly. The weather is ideal, with less sunlight, and lower UV levels. Taken as a course, a peel will significantly improve the look of skin before summer. Like most skin care treatments, a series is always recommended to target the deeper layers of the epidermis and enhance exfoliation and cellular turnover, which in turn produces healthy, glowing skin.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
WHAT ARE THE TRENDS WITH SALON SKIN PEELS? The most popular in-salon peels are mild or 'superficial'. Most commonly used to improve the appearance of pigmentation, acne scars or fine lines on the face, hands and chest. These are ideal for busy clients, as they often show little to no downtime and present no side effects. In some cases there may be mild irritation or redness, which can be concealed with mineral makeup, which allows for flawless skin immediately after each treatment.
HOW DO THEY WORK ON THE SKIN? Peels essentially remove the top layer of the skin to exfoliate and expedite cell turnover. When new cells are formed, this creates a new layer of skin; ideally one that is fresh and smooth. Facial peels will also improve skin’s texture, even skin tone, minimise fine lines, and clear up acne by unclogging pores. And depending on the desired result, they can be tailored at different depths including light, medium or deep. One problem they can’t fix, contrary to popular belief is scarring, which needs to be corrected by laser treatments.
WHO ARE THEY DESIGNED FOR?
PEELS TO TRY: JOYCE BLOK ALPHA-BETA RADIANCE TREATMENT This treatment enhances the skin’s natural exfoliation process, allowing the renewal of healthier skin cells and improving moisture retention in the skin.
HYDROPEPTIDE BLUEBERRY PEEL Gentle rejuvenating blueberry peel for sensitive, visibly red, reactive, photo damaged and dry skin.
ELIZABETH ARDEN PRO POWERPACKED LUNCHTIME PEEL An introductory peel that helps balance the skin with noticeable results. Designed to exfoliate, hydrate and even the appearance of the skin, this quick lunchtime peel is power-packed with skin-enhancing benefits.
PRIORI ADVANCED AHA COSMECEUTICALS SKIN RENEWAL PEEL Designed to deeply exfoliate the skin and increase its natural ability to hold moisture. Skin becomes visibly smoother, firmer, younger looking and brighter. Ideal for mature, sun-damaged skin or normal skin that needs a boost.
While a mild peel can work on just about anyone, there are some exceptions. Those with sensitive skin may experience itching, skin irritation and even blisters after a mild peel, so it’s always best to have a skin consultation and view the skin through a skin scanner with first-time peel clients. The ideal client will have mild skin imperfections such as freckles, sun spots and melasma, fine lines and or mild acne, as these skin conditions respond well to peels. As always, there needs to be a realistic timeline set out for clients, while skin does feel softer after one peel, for best results, a treatment plan of multiple peels is best.
WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT POST-TREATMENT? There is minimal downtime with mild surface peels. As well as a slight tingle during the peel, clients should expect to experience tightness, redness and flaking. Flaking usually begins on day three, post peel and typically can last five to seven days, depending on the individual client. Always warn against picking away the flaky skin as it can delay the healing process or worse cause scarring. Appropriate home care is a must, and should include sunscreen that is at least SPF 30, a gentle cleanser and day cream or serum that doesn't contains active ingredients. Skin will be sensitive for a few weeks, so your clients will want to be prepared and protected. You can help by suggesting a post peel pack.
ENVIRON LACM COOL PEELS These peels are lighter than a normal peel but the beauty of this is that you are able to use them more often. With four peels in the range, one take-home and three professional, you are able to build up to the strength you need for your skin to eventually see an improvement in sun damage, uneven skin tone as well refining texture.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 18
FROM OUR SPA TO YOUR HOME This collection of botanically active products have been developed in-spa with care and expertise by therapists at award-winning Aurora Spas around Australia. We encourage you to recreate your own spa ritual at home and relax and unwind with ASPAR. For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on the ASPAR range contact us on 0800 105 107 or email info@selfcaregroup.co.nz
Beauty | LIPS
2
1
al M e I r e d a l e M in e r
uo
A wine or berry lip is sexy, sophisticated, and simple to achieve. What’s more, it’s the perfect accessory to a winter wardrobe. Sarah Simpson shares three steps to nailing this sultry look.
& Sugar Butter L ip up e D ak
J an
Mastering a dark lip
LINE UP
Although lining lips can seem outdated these days and many makeup artists sway away from this step, with a darker shade it’s a must-have. Doing so helps to retain the shape of your lips and ensure that the dark colour doesn’t bleed into the fine lines. Start by drawing on the cupid’s bow of your lip line, being careful to make sure each side mimics the same shape. Next, slowly draw from the outer corner and meet up in the centre. For the bottom lip, start in the centre and perfect the straight part of the lip before focusing on the outside corners. Top tip – Trying to line your lips in one sweep is a no-no. Take your time to get the best shape. Once you’re happy with the shape, use the liner to fill in your lips, which works to create a base for your colour and also helps to make the shade stay put.
BUFF UP
To pull off such a dark shade, lip condition is number one. Any dryness or chapping will stand out under this beautiful burgundy shade, so putting in the prep work is a must. Start by using a lip exfoliator to buff away any dry skin and recondition the surface of your lips. Top tip - A soft toothbrush is a great tool to help work the product into your lips. 20 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Beauty | LIPS
Top Tips The application is one thing, but finding your perfect shade and finish is another. Here are our tips on getting the right shade and finish.
.
Think about the finish you want to wear, for evenings if you're drinking and snacking; it's crucial to choose a long-wearing formula, like a stain or densely pigmented lipstick. And before you apply colour, use a lip pencil in a nude shade as a wax base. If you have fair skin, choose a cranberry shade with red undertones. For medium skin tones, go for a burgundy hue, think raspberry. And for those with dark skin go for a deep blackberry red with a sheer finish.
Karen Murrell Lipstick in Racy Rata
Lip Crayo
ns in
L cio
Ir e
l
On lay P e
us
da
Smashbox Insta-Matte Lipstick Transformer
J an e
us 21 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Smashbox Be Legendary Longwear Lip Lacquer in Bordeaux
3
COLOUR UP
Adding colour is the final piece of the puzzle and like the lining, is best when applied little and lightly. Opting to apply with a lip brush over the actual lipstick itself will enable more control and will give you a sharper edge, which is essential to pull off this look. Blot and reapply to help work the product into the lips and retain the colour throughout the day or night. Top tip – Use some concealer and a small brush to sharpen up your lip line and correct any mistakes.
.
To avoid looking too goth, keep the rest of the makeup to a minimal when wearing a bold lip. Choose a lightweight foundation and a peach or bronze blush, just on the apples of the cheeks. Finally, apply black or brown liner, just along the lashline and blend, this is only to add definition.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Korabkova / Shutterstock and supplied
.
Beauty | Q & A
QUEEN Karen Murrell’s journey almost happened by accident. While developing a skincare line, she realised there was a gap in the market for a natural lipstick. Sarah Simpson reveals why it will rival many in consistency, colour and being cruelty-free.
DOES LIPSTICK MAKE YOU MORE ATTRACTIVE TO THE OPPOSITE SEX? This would be an interesting study to conduct. I have never heard of a man who doesn’t like a woman wearing red lipstick. We frequently have ladies comment on how many compliments they receive by wearing our lipsticks, which is always lovely feedback to hear.
WHAT IS THE MOST POPULAR SELLING SHADE? Our new shade, Coral Dawn is our number one seller. It’s a warm, vibrant colour with tangerine tones, which makes it so versatile.
“When you apply lip colour, press your lips together. Doing this emulsifies the formulation of waxes, natural oils and pigments.”
K
aren Murrell’s love of cosmetics dates right back to watching her grandmother organise her makeup collection as a child. Fast-forward to 2016 and her passion hasn’t dulled one bit. In fact, her drive and determination has now seen her company become a global brand, which continues to grow at a rapid pace.
WHY DOES LIPPY GIVE THAT IMMEDIATE FEEL-GOOD FACTOR? Personally, I think it’s the instant shot of colour. A perfectly made up face needs lipstick. In my opinion, lipstick is the icing on the cake.
DOES IT HAVE THE POWER TO GIVE YOU MORE CONFIDENCE? Well it’s simple really, if you look good, you feel empowered and confident and wearing lipstick has the ability to make you feel 100 percent better.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO WEAN YOURSELF OFF BROWN LIPSTICK AND SWITCH TO A BRIGHT SHADE? I suggest trying a subtle dusky cerise pink; our Camellia Morning has just enough depth to be a showstopper. Or a wild raspberry such as Racy Rata - both of these lipsticks have enough depth and are flattering on any skin tone, and help you move onto brighter hues.
WHAT’S THE ONE LIPSTICK SIN? Writing notes to one’s self in lipstick on your bathroom mirror. Not conditioning or protecting your lips is the second sin. The Moisture Stick should be part of everyone’s bedtime beauty ritual. Use it every night, to keep lips in top condition.
WHAT IS YOUR BEST LIPSTICK TIP? When you apply lip colour, press your lips together. Doing this emulsifies the formulation of waxes, natural oils and pigments. This activates the brightness of your lipstick, aids in hydration and ensures your lipstick doesn’t budge. www.karenmurrell.com 22 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
WORTHY By SHARLEEN SINGH
WHAT ARE THE MOST NOURISHING SEA-INSPIRED INGREDIENTS USED IN SKINCARE? Noticed algae extracts popping up in skincare lately? There’s a reason for that. To survive harsh marine conditions, certain types of algae use a chemical protective mechanism which causes them to produce antioxidants – perfect for our skin. By far one of the richest sources of vitamins and minerals is the sea itself. Seawater is brimming with dozens of trace minerals for skin health, and marine plants have long been known for their super food properties when it comes to delivering nutrients for boosting your complexion. Next on the list are phlorotannins: compounds unique to species of brown algae and marine macroalgae, which have been shown in numerous clinical studies, to promote skin repair. Rich in zinc, they are effective in treating skin irritations and injuries, including acne, skin sores and minor wounds.
HOW DO THESE MARINE INGREDIENTS WORK ON THE SKIN? For centuries, humans have known and harvested the vast resources of the underwater world to enhance the skin. But with natural products on the rise, the marine beauty wave is under the spotlight more so than before. According to Susan Nicholls, director of World Beaute, “Similarities between sea water and blood plasma leads to a natural recognition of sea water by the skin, our cells absorb and assimilate it. Being rich in 96 minerals and trace elements essential for the proper functioning of our body and in particular our skin; sea water is a precious source of balance,” says Nicholls.
HOW DO THEY BENEFIT THE SKIN? Nicholls rates seaweed, which comes with an array of benefits, including vitamins, amino acids, phytohormones and iodine. "It is known for its stimulating and slimming properties and also provides the skin with incredible elasticity and firmness," says Nicholls. Brown seaweed also offers re-mineralising, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. And finally green seaweed. "This is super hydrating, boasting levels of the Omega 3 fatty acids, oleic and linolenic, plus is an excellent source of vitamin B complex.
The ocean is brimming with skin-loving minerals that will transform any complexion.
23 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
WHAT BRANDS OFFER THE BEST IN SEA-INSPIRED RANGES? There are many top beauty brands taking the plunge with products inspired by the sea, including Thalgo, Algologie, La Prairie and La Mer to name a few. This
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied.
W
hen you think of the ocean, skin care is not the first thing that springs to mind, but as Sharleen Singh discovers there is a tidal wave of ingredients to be found in the sea. Other than the well-known saying that sand is an effective exfoliant for feet in the summertime, our oceans are brimming with the most exciting discoveries, including the very best ingredients to nourish, calm and revive skin of any age. Here’s a low down on what the sea has to offer.
Beauty | SKINCARE
beauty phenomenon is set to grow, with more and more products and treatments centred around the best that the ocean has to offer.
WHO ARE SEA-BASED INGREDIENTS TARGETED AT? According to Nicholls, anyone can benefit from sea-based ingredients. "The beauty of sea-inspired skin care is that it’s perfect for most skin concerns." For a quick checklist red algae, is ideal for normal to combination skin. Green algae will nourish dry and mature skin. And for those with acne prone skin, brown algae is excellent for controlling oil and breakout. Whatever the skin concern, there is bound to be a little saviour found under the sea.
WHAT IS THE LATEST DISCOVERY? "Marine biologists working on marine biotechnology have revealed what could be the most unexpected, yet important discovery of this generation", says Nicholls. "And that is micro algae. They are the phytoplankton present in the ocean, recently discovered because they are so tiny, invisible to the naked eye, and yet they have been found to represent 99.9 percent of all marine organisms." Nicholls says they represent the first link in the ocean food chain and are essential to the marine ecosystem. "Micro algae are among the most promising assets for future cosmetics,” says Nicholls.
Try 1 Algologie Lift & Lumiere. 2 Thalgo Prodige des Océans L’Essence. 3 La Mer Créme De La Mer. 4 La Prairie Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Serum. 4 2
3
1
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 24
Business | PROMOTION
According to Margaret Walsh, every team is a self-portrait of the person who leads it. Here’s a snapshot of her experience and advice on leadership. Hairdressing and beauty therapy salon leaders typically have industry experience and knowledge. The best leaders have the additional skill of being able to apply this knowledge to predict future trends. This allows them to ensure the salon will be organised to make change and growth happen. As leaders they know that ‘to make it happen, you need some action’. Salon leaders know what it will take to affect change in the business in terms of organisation, people, process and the financial 25 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
input required to get a successful result. In our current market the leader knows that resources are finite so to affect change, priorities have to be listed and acted upon. Changes may often be adamantly opposed at the time yet when the leader leads from the front and makes sacrifices, this is evidence to staff and clients that they are ‘walking the talk’ and that’s when others follow! Model your own leadership development on the following 4 Successful Strategies.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
Take the lead
“Every team is a self-portrait of the person who leads”
• Learn to be aware. Develop the need to read and become more aware of the culture in your salon. Take the time to be the receptionist a half day a week as staff and clients enjoy the presence of a good leader. Attend the Business Network Groups locally, talk and learn from your accountant and avoid just filing that data. Understand the ‘figures’ so you can test and measure all that moves in your salon - clients, retail, services, stock turn-over, staff, in-coming phone calls and yourself! Test and measure yourself with a business coach, mentor or product supplier even if it is only three times a year. This will hone your leadership skills as you personally learn to be accountable for your salon’s culture of success. • Always be an example. Be visible, be conspicuous, be present at staff meetings - you are the salon leader and what you do, the business will do. This role is more demanding and, at times, tiring during challenging economic times yet remains crucial to your success. You set the behaviour of the business in your salon. Lift your professionalism and join, you and your entire team, with H.I.T.O – your Industry Association and the New Zealand Association of Registered Beauty Therapists for your beauty therapy staff members. Wear your logo/badges every day as part of your uniforms. This is a truly visible, professional difference that you can do to set an example for your team that your clientele and your suppliers can see. • Know Yourself. The leader must know themselves as a person. Be the person that you truly are. Be grounded, be compassionate, be understanding and live your values. Ask for and accept only the best on the day and be respected for having standards and make your decisions focussed on honesty, integrity and dignity.
• Execute to make a difference. A leader must focus on the major business themes - the important issues in the salon - and have the day to day operational processes managed by another team member. Inspiring leadership must ensure that you keep your entire team informed and let them know they are appreciated. • The leader must engage all of the team and be aware and accepting of different personalities in the group, acknowledging that the team members are all different. Spend time with each individual and establish what their motivational drivers are. Is it performance based rewards? Work-life balance? Opportunity to learn and grow in the hairdressing and beauty therapy industry? Collaborative and positive team relationships? Or the purpose that your salon embraces as it works towards making a real difference in the community? • These ‘leadership in action’ skills will allow you to grow into a strong leader in your salon. To execute and make a difference you must acquire this good will. Acquire it by embracing the above strategic steps and in doing so you are helping and enabling your staff and colleagues, customers, suppliers and business neighbours to be successful. And as you begin, or continue, on your leadership journey please embrace Jim Rohn’s statement:
“Don’t wish it was easier; wish you were better. Don’t wish for less problems; wish for more skills. Don’t wish for less challenges; wish for more wisdom.”
“
Margaret has been a leader in new advances in the beauty industry for a number of years, and highly recommends the Observ 520 system. “I have been using the Observ 520 in my skin therapy clinic for almost two years and can no longer remember what our skin consultations were like before this. It has become an invaluable tool in educating our clients about their skin. Not only does it give us, as therapists, an insight into underlying skin conditions it gives a better understanding of our clients skin. Detailed and well-recorded before and after images help to keep an account of change and make sure we are delivering a high level of skin care”. Robyn McAlpine-owner of three OBSERV 520 devices and Lazer Effect Skinside Out. OBSERV OUT & ABOUT will be at BEAUTY TECH Auckland Sunday 10th & Monday 11th July and Brisbane Hair & Beauty Expo Sunday 17th & Monday 18th July.
+64 274 735 914 observ.co.nz enquiries@observ.co.nz
“
The changing face
OF SKINCARE
This winter Anne O’Brien looks at the importance of embracing our talents and love of products, to make sure all treatments and consultions are as special as our clients deserve.
R
ecently I caught up with a great friend and we chatted about her latest overseas trip. She’s a workaholic but for a change this trip was for pleasure so I was eager to hear what she had purchased and what treatments she had enjoyed. I was surprised that she had actually purchased very little but had enjoyed two great treatments (envious). One thing my friend did buy got me thinking. She showed me a bespoke makeup product that had been specifically put together “just for me” she explained. It was like she was holding a precious stone in her palm. “Sometimes it’s like buying one size fits all out there” she said, “So it was nice to feel special and talk to someone about what I wanted – just for me” she repeated. Later her comment “Just for me” got me thinking. I assume our industry is renowned for our bespoke attention to skin and products but are we really making the experience as special and as relevant to our clients as we think. Skin type (normal, oily, dry and some would say sensitive) is not all you should be considering when talking to your clients. We come in a glorious spectrum of different colours and this colour is of course attributed to that single class of pigments: the melanins. There is a strong correlation between geographical conditions and skin tone. These differences have evolved to find balance between the benefits and dangers of the UV radiation we absorb. An article I read said that we should look at the distance from the equator of our client’s heritage to determine the type of chemical peel prescribed, and a map of the world close to your skin consultation room is a great way to remind us of just how important ethnic background is to application. It’s also quite a fun thing to have on display as it is an easy way to talk about what different routines are used globally and how wonderful they all are. This leads me to my next point - it’s not just about melanin. Ethnic diversity due to geographical location is important but political diversity can also be an influence to our industry. I’m not advocating Donald Trump as a beauty icon of course (though his fixation with
hairspray is pretty amazing) but I am suggesting that we should consider the relevance of global trends and what our clients are reading about and want to try for themselves. As with fashion our client’s skin care desires have been kindled by being exposed to a whole myriad of opportunities via bloggers, Instagram, online magazines and of course my favourite - luxury magazines. Thus they have been introduced to geographical trends that have been born out of political situations. Huh? Well think of Korea in particular. Japan and China, as we know, have quite strained public relations. South Korea has been able to capitalise on this by selling to both. It started with the introduction of the BB cream nearly six years ago and now South Korea (or“SoKo”) is a major force in the beauty industry. After technology (Samsung and LG are both Korean) skincare is now Korea’s second biggest industry and is said to be at least seven years ahead of the rest of the world in product development. What two things does So-Ko beauty have going for it? Specificity and unconventional packaging – two of my favourite things by the way. It is the specificity that we are focusing on this season and this cannot be identified more easily than by the 10 step SoKo beauty routine. Luminous skin is the very essence of beauty and Korean men and women go above and beyond to maintain it. I can only say you had better be ready for it because your clients are trying it and they already love it! The multi-step process also begins from a young age so embrace the diversity from yet another angle – yes you don’t have to be over 30 to start. Don’t be a ‘one size fits all spa’ but remember the unique ‘just for me’ moment that you create as a beauty professional is what makes your business so successful. None of our clients are the same so make them feel that way and I guarantee they will be telling their friends about you when they catch up. My girlfriend is still raving about her personalised product by the way and for all your curious beauty experts out there it was a foundation. Enjoy the season…
27 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
“Don’t be a ‘one size f its all spa’ but remember the unique ‘just for me’ moment that you create as a beauty professional is what makes your business so successful”.
Beauty | SKINCARE CULTURE
Haven’t yet grasped exactly what the 10 steps are all about then see below and make sure you have all steps covered for your client. Remember they don’t all have to be from the same skin care range but they do need to complement each other. Call the routine something fun like “The So-Ko Winter
Skincare Routine” and see how popular it will soon become. Step 1 – Eye Makeup Removal (using a specific remover for the eyes). Step 2 - The Cleanse (remind your clients they spend up to 30 minutes putting their make up on – how long do they take to remove
it?). Step 3 - Exfoliate (depending on skin type, once or twice a week, or daily). Step 4 - Tone (or refresh). Step 5 - Apply an Essence (affects the skin on a cellular level). Step 6 - The Ampoule (or Serum). Step 7 - Sheet Mask (twice a week). Step 8 - Eye Cream. Step 9 - Moisturise. Step 10 - Night Cream HEADWAY.NET.NZ 28
Introducing the completely NEW 2 step tinting system - Refectocil Sensitive - that allows you to tint eyebrows and eyelashes in only 3 minutes with colours based on plant extracts. This breakthough innovation just released on the market allows you to offer the perfect tinting service for all clients especially those with sensitive skin and eyes who have previously had to forgo this treatment can now have beautiful accentuated eyes too! Dermatologically and Opthalmologically tested. Refectocil Sensitive is the first eyelash tint that works based on plant extracts, with yarrow, horse chestnut extract, marigold, green tea, safflower, hydrangea, Chinese Galle, St John’s Wort, walnut extract, juniper, goldenrod, nettle, blueberry, chaste berry, red wine extract. Available in 4 Colours BLACK: tints every hair in a rich, pure black and is suitable for lashes and very dark brows. DARK BROWN: tints every hair in a dark brown and is suitable for medium to dark brown hair. MEDIUM BROWN: tints light brown to dark blonde hair in a warm brown. LIGHT BROWN: tints hair in a soft brown.
8 Applications Kits contain : 1x 3.5ml Colour Gel, 1 x 3.5ml Developer Gel, 1 x Tinting stick, 1 x Tinting Brush & 16 Eye Protection Papers
AVAILABLE NOW IN NZ
ASK FOR REFECTOCIL SENSITIVE AT ALL LEADING SUPPLIERS SOLE IMPORTER LEE FRAN BEAUTY IMPORTS P/L www.lfbi.com.au www.refectocil.co.nz
Business | SPA RETREAT
Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat From weight loss to pure relaxation, here are five reasons to put Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat on your bucket list.
G
winganna Spa is located in the Tallebudgera Valley, on the Gold Coast. And it’s the ultimate in beauty relaxation and rejuvenation. Whether you are in need of some solitude, a relaxing girl’s weekend away or even if you fancy shifting a few unwanted kilos that have crept on, Gwinganna is the perfect place to rejuvenate both the mind and body. With a host of programmes, facilities and activities to suit every budget, this luxurious resort is a must-have on every woman’s wish list.
30 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Business | SPA RETREAT
TAILORED PROGRAMMES
1
No matter the reason, Gwinganna offers a wide range of programmes to suit your specific needs. Choose from a two night wellness weekend, a full seven day detox or opt for a tailored package which can be for as many days as you desire. Gwinganna works with you to create the perfect retreat to suit your exact needs, ensuring you leave inspired and replenished.
T
he key to your clients embracing skin peels this winter is in your ability to recommend, and explain the process, without mentioning the word, ‘peel’. A skin peel is either an acid-based synthetic chemical or fruit, vegetables or milk derivatives. When applied to the face these solutions will peel away the top layer of skin. This terminology can be terrifying to sensitive clients. Better known, as a 'rejuvenating skin boost', today’s peels refresh and reinvigorate skin, and allow a natural glow to shine through. They also increase cell turnover, which can address problematic breakouts, acne, wrinkles, and general dullness. With winter well and truly here, it’s time to brush up on your peel IQ.
1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
2
ORGANIC CUISINE
Freshly grown in their own on-site organic garden, the luxuriously fresh and local meals created by Gwinganna’s team of nutritionists and chefs is an experience of the senses and one not to be missed. With a variety of meals for every client including vegetarian and food allergy options, be prepared to be transported to a world of nutritional wonder. To enhance your dining experience choose from any of the magnificent indoor or outdoor rooms to complete this culinary experience.
Business | SPA RETREAT
3
ACCOMMODATION
Tucked away in the wild landscape, surrounded by beautiful native wildlife, sit a collection of comfortable and cosy villas created for the sole purpose of ultimate relaxation. Each villa offers a private oasis with exceptional facilities including a private deck and pool to retreat to after a day well spent.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 32
4
Business | SPA RETREAT
LIFESTYLE RETREAT Afternoons at Gwinganna are designed around the concept of dreamtime. Take time to stop and relax with any of the soothing spa facilities on offer. Choose from one of the many indoor or outdoor spa sanctuary rooms, to experience your chosen treatment using only natural and organic skin care. products.
5 1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
WORDS BY Alex Mead. PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
ACTIVITIES
Inspired by the stunning scenery, Gwinganna offers a range of indoor and outdoor activities to extend your mind and body. Nothing is compulsory, although you will find yourself aching to experience all that there is on offer. From gentle exercise to more intense activity that promotes functional movement and body balance, such as boxing and aqua workouts.
Beauty | LYNDALL MITCHELL
Five steps TO WELLNESS Keeping yourself, staff and your spa healthy and happy is a full time job, before stepping into the treatment room to work with clients. Wellness specialist Lyndall Mitchell and founder of Aurora Spa shares her insights to keeping well.
ASPAR FOUNDE
E CH
LL
Recently, we ran a workshop on positivity for the team, as one of our core values is team building. The main activity was ‘Strength Bombardment’, where each team member is ‘bombarded’ with messages about their strengths from everyone in the team. One team member stands in the middle of the team, while the other
3
HYDRATION
ER LYNDALL MI T
2
TEAM TRAINING
team members take turn in saying: 1 What the strengths are about the person in the middle of the room. 2 How that person has impacted their life or changed their life. There were tears, laughter and an amazing sense of connection during the team building activity.
N OW
Every Wednesday, we post a positive quote on the Aurora Spa Facebook Page. We will have this quote printed and posted in the team room – to inspire the spa therapists. The spa is also implementing a Wellness Wishing Jar, where therapists place their wellness wishes in the jar and once a month an activity will be selected for the team, based on their wishes. The spa is also creating a ‘Wednesday Wisdom’ monthly newsletter – with recipes, inspirational posts, ideas for therapist selfcare etc. The newsletters will be created by the therapists for the therapists.
ND
1
WELLNESS WEDNESDAY
RA
Our skin gets dry with the heating units that are in use during the colder months. We expose our skin to dry conditions over this time of the year. In order to counteract some of the impact we need to make sure we are well hydrated, for our skin and our gut health. Our normal drinking water has chlorine in it, which can kill the good bacteria in your belly making it even more important to drink filtered water. 70 percent of our immune system is found in our gut. In the spa, we recently gifted all of our team a Frank & Green water bottle to encourage and help everyone to drink more pure filtered water throughout their working day. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 34
Beauty | LYNDALL MITCHELL
4
THERMAL BALM
Winter is the season when we are more susceptible to coughs and colds. In order to help get through the winter season our Rosemary & Clove Thermal Balm is the best rescue remedy during winter. Apply some on your chest if you find yourself congested and you can apply on your children as it has no nasty chemicals, only pure sinus clearing botanicals. We use this product in the majority of our spa treatments over winter to help our clients.
5
STILLNESS
In a season that is more conducive to stopping and reflecting, it is the perfect time to add in some meditation to your daily routine. Meditation is like going to the gym for your mind. It is a cumulative practice that you build on. By taking some time to slow down you are getting more attuned to your inner voice. The mind is often compared to a cup of dirty water. When it is shaken, the water in a cup becomes cloudy, but when it is still, the sand settles to the bottom of the cup and the water clears. The practice of meditation is like letting the cup of water—your mind—be still. Headspace is a great meditation app, as is Smiling Mind.
35 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
N
OR TOTAL M PA F IN
Y RELAXAT BO D IO
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
“The moment you enter Aurora Spa the aroma of lemongrass and sweet orange is hypnotic. Mixed with the sound of trickling water it gives you that instant sense of calm.”
D AN
AS
is the point, freezing river-stones are run over the legs and arms and around the tummy, refreshing yes, but an instant wake up from my relaxing slumber. Next, to my face, which is cleansed, and a rich mask is applied to my skin, followed by a creamy, nutritious Olive Leaf Intensive Treatment Hair Masque. Now here’s the best bit, a dreamy scalp massage follows. There is not an inch of my body that is not buffed and nourished to perfection. And after a hot shower and back in the relax lounge, I contemplate as I sip my chamomile and spearmint tea, and watch a blustery Melbourne day turn to evening, it’s rare to be in a spa of this calibre and feel so totally and utterly revived. Signature Kitya Karnu steam massage, allow 90 minutes and costs $225 AUD. Aurora Spa Retreat is one of Australia’s leading boutique spas, a favourite amongst celebrities, beauty editors and spa travellers the world over. It was voted one of the top 10 hotel spas in 2009 for Australasia and The South Pacific by Conde Naste Traveller, and rumour has it Paris Hilton books in on every visit to Australia.
D
AURORA SPA RETREAT A reputation for ‘the place’ in Melbourne to totally relax and unwind, Aurora Spa Retreat at the Prince Hotel in St Kilda Melbourne is outstanding. Trudi Brewer spent the afternoon under its spell. The moment you enter the Prince Hotel in St Kilda the aroma of lemongrass and sweet orange is hypnotic. And making your way up the winding stairs to the spa the scent becomes even headier and the sound of trickling water gives you that instant sense of calm. I had booked in for the signature steam massage, known as Kitya Karnu, the Aboriginal meaning for salty stones, which has the reputation of being that ‘total body bliss’ that should be on your beauty bucket list. Naked in my private steam room heated to a balmy 38 degrees, my therapist (who was wearing her bathers) covered my body in rich lavender and patchouli essential oils. Rubbed liberally on my arms, legs, back and the chest, it was then layered with organic sea salt and accompanied by a firm, circular exfoliation using the creamy Wattleseed and Walnut Resurfacing Skin Cream. The next step did startle me, and this
Business | TRAVEL
24
hours in Melbourne
With no plans, other than plenty of free time, 24 hours in Melbourne to soak up the sights, shops and superb cuisine, was just what the doctor ordered. Trudi Brewer discovers a very chic city.
M
elbourne, like its residents is a smart-looking city. It's striking Victorian architecture, delicious food and the busy city vibe makes it the ideal weekend getaway. Here's a taste of what is a truly stylish town.
Fantastic views It's not for the faint hearted when standing on Eureka Skydeck at Riverside Quay, Southbank, however you are officially on the Southern hemisphere’s highest viewing platform. Equipped with its Willy Wonka-esque glass elevator, it's an experience you must not miss. With glass walls, ceiling, and floor, you’re 88 levels up off the ground, and this will be the best or worst $20 (admission fee) you have ever spent. Once your feet are back on firm ground, you realise it's an exhilarating experience, that allows you to take in sky-high city views, across one of Australia’s most cosmopolitan ports, and an excellent way to understand this vibrant landscape, before you explore it.
Coffee I can’t function without coffee first thing. And, I am now qualified to say - you will be hard pressed to get a bad coffee in Melbourne. There is a well-trained barista on every street corner, and after trialling at least four different city spots (that were recommended), Degraves Espresso Bar came out on top. Right in the heart of the CBD, sit back and relax, in an old cinema seat, and choose from the breakfast menu written in chalk on the walls around the room. I challenge you to find a better latte and scrambled eggs anywhere.
Dining You could gain 10kg eating your way around Melbourne. It’s a 'foodies paradise'. Thanks to the European influence, this city has an array of culinary delights. From fine to street style dining, you can stumble across laneways heaving with people and mouthwatering aromas, all over this city. It would be impossible to keep up with Melbourne’s 36 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
Business | TRAVEL
gourmet scene; there is always a buzz around the latest bar, cafe or bistro opening. For a better-informed view before you arrive, check out the brilliant www.melbournefoodsnob. com. However, if you're in doubt, start in Fitzroy. My picks include Cutler & Co, on Gertrude Street, the ideal place for a romantic dinner for two. Hell of the North, also in Fitzroy for great food with a more laid back atmosphere. Bad Frankie is a great bar to kick off a big night out, or stay and enjoy toasties and a craft beer. Then head to Rococo, on Acland Street in St Kilda for some wellpriced Italian, or Romeo’s on Toorak Road, famous for delicious crepes. Finally don't miss a visit to Lygon Street, it's the heart of exquisite Italian cuisine. One spot to try is Heartattack and Vine. It's the only place that serves coffee from seven a.m. until 11 p.m. With three short menus, one for each meal of the day, this rustic, yet chic café has real charm, and serves a mean cup of coffee, or cleverly crafted cocktails. It's here you could spend an afternoon and early evening.
China town
What’s not to love about Melbourne’s Chinatown. It was established back in the 50’s during the gold rush days, and is the longest Chinese settlement in the western world. A place to taste Australia’s best dumplings, including Hutong Dumpling Bar, Shanghai Street Dumpling and Shandong Mama. It's a cultural haven, that is heaving both day and night with busy crowds, and the giant archway with stone lions guarding the entrance, on Little Bourke Street, is the place to enter. Work your way through intricate alleyways that link the area to Bourke and Lonsdale Streets - you can get lost in there for hours..
City trams A novelty for me, the city trams are bursting with shoppers, workers and tourists alike. They are so efficient, and not only for their speed, they zip around the circular route passing the best shopping spots - and they don’t cost a cent. Free for your convenience, you can jump on and off at your leisure, and see the sights, visit David Jones and Meyer department stores in Bourke Street Mall, or check out Market Lane on Collins Street, where you will be spoilt for choice deciding on a delicious lunch. You can spend all day getting about on a city tram - just remember to hop on number 35 or 96. 37 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
mall Where to stay Searching for a hotel online can be hit and miss, but without a doubt, The Crown Metropol Melbourne is second to none. This five star experience is in a great location, on Whiteman Street, Southbank. With exquisite contemporary decor, pool, and luxury shops – that you don't need to leave the hotel complex to visit, and spacious rooms with crisp cotton sheets, luxe glass and marble bathrooms. Check out the French inspired Mr. Hive Kitchen Restaurant & Bar, (try the seasonal fruit and honey Greek yoghurt for breakfast), you can end your search here. Stay, dine and relax, it's one of the best in town – and they regularly have great weekend room packages.
Shopping Unlike Sydney, you don't have to search far for our favourite national shade - black. This fashion-forward city has a range of chic stores, and due to the weather, (its gets very chilly in winter) the choice is not all bright and
tight. From, Bourke Street Mall in the city to Chapel St in South Yarra, this is a serious shoppers paradise. My international shopping rule is never to step foot into a store where the clothes are available in New Zealand. So, my picks include Cos, (the upmarket H&M), Habbot Shoes and Accessories, (the creation of Melbourne designer Annie Abbott), and Acne Studio's, all found under the swanky roof of 'The Strand' complex on Elizabeth Street. A must is H&M in the stunning Bourke Street's GPO store, in the heart of the city. This stunningly renovated building is the jewel in this cities crown. Also worth a mention is the newly opened St. Collins Lane, it has an upmarket edit of international brands including Coach, Reiss and Zadig & Voltaire. And if you have time take a trip to Chadstone, Dandenong Road, Malvern East - locals call it the ‘fashion capital’ and it's well worth a visit.
A day trip You should not visit Melbourne without seeing the Yarra Valley. It’s brilliant for the food and wine snobs amongst us. You will find that some of the best chardonnay and pinot noir comes from this region. And if you get too tired to drive home, you can book in at one of the many luxury boutique hotels, or retreats and languish there for a couple of days.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
Chinatown
Beauty | NUTRITION
THE BREAKFAST N
othing’s better than starting the day feeling great and we personally think that breakfast has a massive part to play. It's widely known that breakfast is incredibly important but when you have to choose between breakfast and more zzzz's I know that the choice to put breakfast first isn't that easy. As the first meal of the day, breakfast breaks your overnight fast. Your brain and muscles have been using your stored energy to recover over the night and eating breakfast kick starts the natural process of using food for energy.
club
For a busy stylist, the best way to kick start your day is with a healthy breakfast. Nutrition expert Liz Lamb shares her love of eggs.
TIP ONE It’s important to have a blend of carbohydrate and protein during breakfast. Your brain is picky and only uses glucose (carbohydrate) for energy, not protein or fat. Low GI carbohydrates like grainy bread and grains will give you longer lasting energy than a short energy release that is in a muffin. Carbs are good for immediate use but having some protein with breakfast is a fantastic way to continue to give you lasting energy rather than getting the mid morning munchies. Remember protein fills you up more than carbs and can be used by the rest of your body alongside carbohydrates for energy.
.
EGG FACTS More than 40 years of research has proved that eggs do not significantly impact on heart disease.
.
One egg contains 13 essential vitamins and minerals plus six grams of high-quality protein.
.
TIP TWO
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
The wonder food for any breakfast is an egg. They are a great source of protein, and are packed with a load of minerals and vitamins to keep you satisfied and feeling good. Eggs are incredibly versatile; you can hard boil them the night before and mash them onto some grainy toast or scramble them in the microwave with a bit of milk if you’re on the run at work. The trick with this is to microwave in 20 second increments so the egg doesn't over cook and get rubbery.
TIP THREE Make time in the morning for an energizing omelet, to start your day. You will need: Wilted spinach, (use fresh spinach and blanch in boiling water for a few minutes) chopped tomato and crumbled feta. Whisk two eggs with a dash of milk, pour into a non-stick pan, let it set around the edges pulling the sides back to let the uncooked egg slide in underneath. When the egg is almost set, load up the spinach, tomato and feta on to one half, and flip over the other side to cover the other half. Cook for a couple more minutes and then enjoy with a piece of grainy toast. For a man-size portion add bacon, cooked sliced potatoes and fresh herb, and then place under the grill for a few minutes to brown.
This high-quality protein is essential for building and maintaining lean body mass.
.
Eggs at breakfast reduce hunger and help with weight loss and weight maintenance.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 38