Professional Hairdresser February 2020

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FEBRUARY 2020

Professional FEBRUARY 2020

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F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 0

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FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag

This month make Manchester your hairdressing destination of choice on the 23rd and 24th February when PRO HAIR LIVE 2020 returns to this vibrant city. Head on over to Manchester Central where you will see a plethora of hairdressing brands and some of the biggest names in the industry all under one roof! Whether you are a salon owner, manager, stylist, colourist or assistant, don’t miss this popular industry event where you can come and discover everything to do with hairdressing: Everything and everyone at PRO HAIR LIVE is relevant to you, to your salon and to your business. We have two main catwalk stages – the Pro Hair Stage and the Fellowship Stage plus the Pro Barbering Men’s Stage in collaboration with Barber NV magazine and powered

by WAHL and a very lively and very relevant Business and Sustainability Stage.

In total, there will be over 60 FREE STAGE SESSIONS from the UK’s top hairdressing talent and business experts – sharing first-hand their amazing skills, techniques and knowledge with you.

As well as all this, come and discover the very latest products, tools and technologies from key brands in the market. They will all be on show with exclusive exhibition offers, inspiring demos and brand new product launches. Your all-inclusive ticket includes FREE access to the complete programme of shows, seminars and workshops from the UK’s hairdressing elite. It’s going to be a hotbed of creativity, packed with ideas and inspiration for you to take straight back to the salon.

Book your FREE tickets at WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK now and we’ll see you in Manchester at the end of the month.

FEBRUARY 2020

COVER: Hooker & Young

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

REGULARS

Assistant Editor

6

Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk

NEWS Industry goings on

Digital Manager Ruth Williams Digital Assistant Rebecca Mcgeoch

PEOPLE 9

HOOKER & YOUNG With the Goldsworthys

Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager

13 THE SALON CHAMPION With Andrew Barton

Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Walstead Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager

COLOUR

PRODUCTS

27 COLOUR CLOSE-UP with Schwarzkopf Professional

60 What’s New

29 COLOUR CLOSE-UP with Wella Professionals

BUSINESS

FASHION

74 WHEN MICHAEL MET with Michael Douglas 76 Trisha Buller

32 VISIONARIES with Revlon Professional

PRO HAIR LIVE PREVIEW

38 ON TREND

14 EXHIBITORS SHOWCASE 20 STAGE PROGRAMMES

MENS SPECIAL

COLLECTIONS

54 MEN’S STEP BY STEP with Ross Charles

oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

55 SPOTLIGHT ON Nëal & Wølf

National Sales Executive

56 MALE TRENDS

Oliver Shannon

Alana Asher

64 SPOTLIGHT SPECIAL with ghd

78 Robert Masciave 79 Michael Smith 80 Alan Simpson 81 Robert Eaton for Wella

SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE 82 GREEN QUEEN KARINE

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

aasher@hamerville.co.uk

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©2020 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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July 18 - June 19

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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

Down to Business Phorest hosts sixth annual Salon Owners Summit.

Over 500 hair and beauty salon owners travelled to Dublin, Ireland for Phorest Salon Software’s highly anticipated Salon Owners Summit. A highlight of the hair and beauty business calendar, this year’s event attracted people the UK, Ireland, USA, Canada, Australia and Germany.

With the theme ‘Create a 2020 vision for your salon’ this year’s summit was designed as an educational platform, aiming to offer salon owners the latest insights and tools to help salons reach their maximum potential.

The two-day programme kicked off with an ‘Inside Phorest’ session before a line up of inspirational guest speakers including someone from Instagram, Marcus Allen of Urban Retreat at Harrods, Pamela Laird from TV’s The Apprentice and President of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Ken Picton.

After a day packed with education, attendees were transported to the afterparty hosted in one of Dublin’s best-known nightclubs for an exclusive night of networking & dancing!

FIRST STEPS FOR F.A.M.E. THE F.A.M.E TEAM BEGIN 2020 WITH MENTOR JAMIE STEVENS. The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s 2020 F.A.M.E. Team has got together for their first mentoring session of the year with project leader Jamie Stevens. They reunited at his London salon for the all-important debut session, where they were given an overview of what the year will hold for them – the guest mentors that have been lined up, the events planned, and the areas they’ll be working on.

Jamie also spent some time working on presentation skills and some time-building exercises to help the group get to know one another.

“As soon as I got there, it was like seeing a bunch of mates I hadn’t seen for a little while,” says team member Casey Coleman. “At the end of the day, I think we would all agree that we felt much more of a unit and are so excited to showcase what we’re going to do this year. We already have a few tricks up our sleeves and we can’t wait to show everybody what it really means to be part of the F.A.M.E. Team!”

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Wella Professionals has launched XPOSURE 2020, a student competition to take your career to the next level. Find out how to enter at www.wella.com/xposure.

Robert Eaton

The Hair & ity has Beauty Char d ce un anno ocutt, Samantha Gr rector Di ng gi Mana PR, as e of Essens d te ec el its r 2020.

President fo The search for the next Revlon Professional VISIONARIES team is on. Check out what the current team has been up to on page 32.

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#TIMETOSHINE

HEADMASTERS CELEBRATES ANOTHER YEAR OF SUCCESS WITH ANNUAL AWARDS. A staple in the London hairdressing calendar, the Headmasters Awards returned this year with a glittering event to celebrate the salon group’s stars of 2019.

Over 1000 of the Headmasters team headed to Battersea Evolution and stepped into the New York City themed ceremony, hosted by Capital Radio’s Roman Kemp.

The Headmasters Awards comprised of seven awards for Business, judged on in-salon performance, plus five coveted Creative Photographic categories. One lucky colourist drove away in a Mini Cooper following the yearly prize draw.

One lucky salon also left with £5,000 to treat their team courtesy of the Headmasters and HSBC sponsored award for The Big 5.

Creative Director Andrew Barton directed an awesome celebration of NYC Street Style with hair executed by the Creative Ambassadors, which ignited the audience for the proceedings to follow, then guests enjoyed a three-course meal before the awards began.

Along with the announcements of the

Creative community

Proxima Nova Bold Proxima Nova

ANTI OPENS A STUDIO SPACE IN BRIXTON, LONDON

winners, Raju Raymond CEO of Headmasters, revealed that the group has raised over £106,000 for the Teenage Cancer Trust, in a large part due to the very competitive Most Charitable Salon Award.

The winners of each award are...

ULTIMATE IMAGE RUNNER UP Chris Del Anon From Great Portland Street ULTIMATE IMAGE WINNERS Holly Anne Facer And Kim Shiel From Reading AVANT GARDE RUNNER UP Pervin Cirakoglu from Mayfair AVANT GARDE WINNER Rochelle Winkworth from Mayfair MENS IMAGE RUNNER UP George Mapston from Mayfair MENS IMAGE WINNER Christian Razmerita and Ines Turzo from Brighton COLOUR INNOVATION RUNNER UP Bart Cacciapaglia & Luke Tyrell from Mayfair COLOUR INNOVATION WINNER Natalia Vera Lopez from Great Portland Street CHRISTINE SANDERS FUTURE STARS RUNNER UP Alex Jewiss from Cobham Once all award winners had been congratulated the party really got started as staff danced the night away sipping wine and cocktails while the DJ pumped out floor-fillers into the small hours.

Headmasters CEO Raju Raymond

Bold

CHRISTINE SANDERS FUTURE STARS WINNER Bobbie Mason from Teddington BIG 5 AWARD IN CONJUCTION WITH HSBC Balham RETAILER OF THE YEAR David Simmaco from Paddington BUSIEST STYLIST Flavio Lacurti from Guildford BUSIEST COLOURIST Kamil Czywil from Shepherds Bush

Following its launch in 2019, ANTI has found a home in the heart of Brixton Village in London.

The flexible space in a former railway arch will be where Nick Irwin and Francesco Ruggerino bring to life the ANTI brands and house their diverse creative community: a multi-purpose blank canvas for content creation, education, events, product testing and innovation as well as a salon.

Nick and Franc chose Brixton for its strong community spirit, something they went to emulate with an ‘open door’ policy for stylists and brands wanting to use the space. “We want to be part of the community,” says Nick, who also lives in the area. “Brixton and its people, values, and beliefs fit with the ANTI brand and the collaborative approach we take.”

Within the space there are ultra modern backwash units, an enormous colour table, a cove for shooting, high tech projection equipment for presentations and inspiration, loads of room for courses, castings and hosting parties, and a giant glitterball! With its floor-to-ceiling windows the studio celebrates the theatre of hairdressing and opens up the doors to the wider fashion industry – something the team hopes will attract local talent and build on the sense of community.

MOST CHARITABLE SALON Surbiton SALON OF THE YEAR Paddington BRING ON THE COLOUR COMPETITION Emily McDonald from Epsom commented “With so many talented hairdressers we wanted to continue to support and recognise their incredible work and to celebrate their successes together as a team. I am incredibly proud and humbled to work with such a dedicated team.”

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PEOPLE

three months of hairdressing, and got up to 30 or 40 a year. I’d travel around the country and I was basically chasing prize money. As a young hairdresser not earning an awful lot, the money was great and it drove me to be creative with new colours and ways of doing hair. I channelled the creativity of punk into hair to come up with new products and ideas. I used soap in my own hair to make it stand up – because we didn’t have styling products back then like we do now. On the competition circuit I started using shaving foam – I’d put gaffer tape around the can so no-one knew what it was. From there, I got involved with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and the British Hairdressing Awards – it was a total change of direction. I learned a lot on the competition circuit, but then had to translate it to the fashion world.

H O O K E R A N D YO U N G

Gary: I remember, we were on the competition circuit at the same time – you, me, Mark Hill.

Do you think young people these days might think competition hair is a bit naff?

Steven: I don’t really think there are competitions like we used to do, and I don’t think I’d choose that direction in hairdressing nowadays. I would do what Josh is doing. But back then, that was the way we did it.

Steven, Josh and well… all of the Goldsworthy clan have become great friends of ours over the years. Largely due to the fact that we have homes in Spain which are not too far from each other leading to so many great times together. We’ve worked on international shows and more recently collaborated on shoots with amazing results! It was a real treat to sit and talk all things hair with Steven and Josh Goldsworthy.

Michael: So, Steven, where did it all start for you?

Steven: Goldsworthy’s is a family business which started in 1961. I never really knew anything else.

Michael: And your dad was the hairdresser?

Steven: Yep, and my mum ran the business side. When I was at school, I wanted to be an architect – I loved technical drawings and creating things. I had to decide if I wanted to be an architect, or if I wanted to follow the family business.

Michael: How did your parents feel about you deciding to go into hairdressing? I’m kind of reading that they didn’t push you into it.

Steven: No, they didn’t at all. It took my dad two weeks to give me an answer when I asked if I could come and work with him. When I said, “Look, have you thought any more about what I said?” he replied, “To be honest, I’ve thought of nothing else. I’m waking up all the time thinking should we, shouldn’t we?” I was a punk at the time with multi-coloured hair and all that, and they had this nice little provincial salon. I told him it was OK, I’d change my image during the day and do my own thing the rest of the time.

Gary: I can’t imagine that now!

Steven: I just wanted to be creative and do different things. I tried to push and do as much as possible, which is why I started out on the competition circuit. I did my first one after

Michael: Well, what is considered competition work now is very different, because they’re largely photographic-based. You’re talking about the old-school, highly-pressured stuff where you had to do a live model on the floor, in a certain length of time, being scrutinised.

It’s a different kind of discipline. You don’t get that doing hair for a photograph. Although it has to be meticulous, you’ve got more time and if something doesn’t go to plan, you can redo it. But what we’re talking about, back then, it was do or die.

Steven: Yeah, and that’s why we made it part of the training for our staff to do two events per year. It gave them discipline and speed – working to a timeframe is the same as when you have clients in the salon.

Michael: I agree, it’s great to allow people to have the creative freedom to do something they wouldn’t ordinarily do, it gives you great skills to help – running a column, doing a colour or cut… it’s all about fine-tuning timing.

Steven: When I moved over into stage work the time thing was helpful too, because you’ve got to get your models ready to go out on stage. You’ve got 15 models to prep and get ready and if you don’t, you haven’t got a show.

Gary: How did you find it working in the salon with your parents?

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Steven: Josh would probably say the same as I’m going to say – I had it tougher than everyone else, because they couldn’t show me favouritism.

Steven: No, because I’ve always known how competitive he is – he’s always wanted to be the person that succeeds.

Michael: I think it’s difficult for a family because they almost want to make an example of you and make it a bit tougher. Even though you’re not having it any easier than the others, you probably want to prove yourself more. Can you vouch for that Josh?

Gary: Is he more competitive than you?

Josh: Yeah definitely. When I came in, it was a very similar scenario. I was 16 and had never even had a conversation about hairdressing, although I spent my life being dragged to the salon after football. I think somehow subliminally I was taking it all in. At that point, five members of the family worked in one building in town and anywhere you went in Swindon, if you mentioned your name they’d say, “Oh, the hairdressers?” I was about to go to college and do sports science, but it was a last-minute decision to go into the salon.The whole way through my training, I was worried it would look like favouritism, when really I was willing to do whatever it took to get onto shoots or shows or assist.

Steven and Josh [together]: Yes! Michael: It feels like there are so many more avenues to be successful now and the more competitive you are, the better, because there are so many people wanting the same thing.

Steven: A lot of people want it without earning it. You can’t just waltz up and win something first time round.

Michael: How do you feel about that? I know we keep talking about the way things used to be, but only so we can draw comparisons with how things are now. It used to be that the only way you could get yourself out there was to be actually physically seen at events, but now with social media, you can create a profile that has nothing to do with your skills and talent before people know what you’re capable of.

Gary: Did you have to be encouraged to be a hairdresser, Josh?

Steven: I’m fed up with things like reality television and people becoming famous for no skill. If we’re not careful, our industry is going to go the same way.

Steven: He was playing semi-professional football at the time, so when he said, “I want to do hairdressing,” it really came out of the blue.

Michael: Yeah, I agree with that.

Gary: How did you feel?

Steven: I was really proud. We’ve got this heritage within the industry if you want to call it that, so to suddenly have him say yes, I want to do what you do – that made me proud. But I did want to make sure that he didn’t make the same mistakes I did.

Gary: But you’d already made them for him to learn from.

Steven: Yeah, and everyone has to make their own way. So whatever he’s wanted to do in the industry, we’ve been there to back him. I don’t want him to just mirror what I’ve done. There was also no guarantee he was going to be a good hairdresser! That’s the thing. OK, so he’s got the name Goldsworthy, but… there’s no guarantee that Josh Goldsworthy will be as good as me or my dad. You just don’t know, do you? He could have been a really mediocre hairdresser and never made it. And there’s everyone thinking he’s going to be fantastic because he’s a Goldsworthy.

Gary: Did you ever think that? “God, I hope he’s good.”

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Steven: We’re facing a massive problem in our industry with chair renting. There are lots of salons that are short-sighted and think. “I’ve got these chairs, I’ll rent them out at X amount per week and I’ll have 15 people paying me money.” But if they’re not careful, they’ll kill our industry because those chair renters don’t employ anyone, they’re not bringing new school leavers through and they’re not putting back into the industry either. We employ our staff and we train them our way when they leave school, so they’re working how we want them to work and hopefully, they have our philosophy ingrained.

Gary: You’re giving your staff a good future. We give all of our staff great opportunities, we invest in them and we expect that back. But a lot of the time now, I think people come along and think right, what are you going to do for me?

Steven: We have a problem at the moment with reality stars and everything – they come, they stay for a couple of years, and they expect everything to be given to them without earning it.

Then if they haven’t been given what they class as their share, they’ll go off somewhere else – it’s an epidemic in hairdressing at the moment.

Michael: Do you think it’s right that people can actually create a name for themselves in the industry on social media that is less about hairdressing skill and more about them as a person?

Steven: It needs to be both. You have to be able to back it up with talent. It’s interesting – you see names which have been in the social media limelight for a while suddenly disappear, and it’s because they haven’t got the talent to back it up. Cream always rises.

Michael: I completely agree. Josh, you’re an example of somebody who works hard to build your own platform, you’ve won awards and shot your own collections… Where do your influences come from? Do you look at people on social media or people in the industry?

Josh: It’s hard not to, because it’s so present. I do think sometimes the imagery is so quick that it can get lost. You could have a beautiful British Hairdressing Awards collection, but in a very short space of time, almost before the awards have even happened... it’s gone.

Something you’ve worked for over a whole year, spent a lot of money on, then becomes just an Instagram post. I know people that are almost solely doing work for their Instagram.

And if that is your business – and some people are making Instagram and YouTube their business – that makes sense. But are we taking away from the awards, shows and shoots because it’s just solely about having continual imagery and keeping that up?

Gary: You’ve got your YouTube channel now though, what’s your goal? Why are you doing that?

Josh: I wanted to go down the route of doing education and step-by-steps, because I know that they get big views and for me, anything I do, has to have some form of output. Whether that’s going to open a door with a manufacturer, or get you shows, or get you in the spotlight for something else, it has to have a monetary value.

I don’t think a lot of people talk about the money side of it, but I have a daughter, I have a family, and because of that, I always need to see some kind of value in my work.

Steven: I think it’s the modern-day version of me chasing competitions.

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Josh: Definitely. When I was listening to you talk earlier on, I didn’t really realise how many parallels there were. I kind of thought I’ve gone into the fashion world, which is completely different, but it’s like how he was doing the competition circuit to be completely different to his dad.

Steven: It’s making your own identity, which is very important.

Michael: Talk me through how the business works now then. Who does what? And is Tracey, (your wife), part of the business?

Steven: She runs everything.

Michael: She’s the big boss. And what about your daughter Sophie?

Steven: She’s in the office with Tracey. She’s an amazing hairdresser who works on the salon floor on a Saturday, but the rest of the time she’s in the office. Tracey and myself were looking to cut back and Josh needs someone that can support him so he can continue doing the show work. I personally feel now that I don’t want to do as much, because that’s Josh’s territory.

to a stylist, then when they’ve been with us for five years if they want to go down a self-employed route within the salon as a contractor they can do that, or if they want to take the next step to franchise, they can do that.

Gary: You’re being very proactive.

Steven: You have to keep one step ahead of everyone else because if you don’t, you’ll get dragged down. This is why we are fortunate to have Tracey behind the scenes, because she’s the one constantly thinking about where the industry is going.

Gary: I think what the Goldsworthy’s have done is say right, when we’re at the next step we need another child!

Michael: When you get together, are you all talking shop?

Steven and Josh [together]: Yeah.

Gary: How do you feel about stepping back from that? Is it hard?

Steven: I thought I would miss the buzz, but I’m quite happy to step back and let the next generation come through. And that’s why I studied trichology too – so now I’m a trichologist and I don’t have to be stood behind the hairdressing chair forever.

Michael: So is this happening now?

Steven: Yeah, I’ve got several clinics – one in each of the salons and in Harley Street as well.

Sophie can hopefully take over from Tracey on the business side eventually while Josh can carry on all the creative stuff. We’ve got the three salons, two of which are company salons and one which is a franchise. So our business model is there so that our members of staff can buy into the brand and franchise if they want to.

Michael: Is that the plan? Have you set it up like that so it can be rolled out?

Steven: Yeah. This chair renting situation is an epidemic as I mentioned, so we’ve come up with a plan as well that we can have members of staff on a self-employed basis, but it’s not chair renting. They set up as a limited company, contract to us for so many hours… So we’ve now got this plan to hopefully cover every aspect. We still take straight from school, so we’re training them our way. Then they build up

Michael: It’s unavoidable isn’t it?

Steven: Before Sophie came into the business, she used to tell us off at the dinner table, but now she’s the one that starts it!

Josh: I think we all have our own areas. We don’t really overlap too much in the salon and we trust each other. We have a management meeting with the others once a month and everything is discussed so that people outside of the family have a say in things as well.

Hopefully that keeps things fair so we don’t just seem like we’re dictating. The whole team is really part of the family – it’s not just the people with the surname Goldsworthy.

Steven: They call themselves Goldsworthians.

Gary: Would you encourage your daughter – I know she’s just a baby – but would you encourage her to go into hairdressing and follow the family business?

Josh: Yes and no. It all depends on what the industry looks like at the time.

Michael: Is it three generations so far?

Josh: Yeah, and it’s eight members of the family.

Michael: That’s pretty amazing.

Josh: I would certainly never sniff at her wanting to be a hairdresser. It’s a great heritage. It’s like they say, computers and machines aren’t going to take our jobs anytime soon. The high street is dying but hairdressers are popping up everywhere so it’s obviously a good industry still.

Michael: What do you both do to relax?

Steven and Joshua: Build houses!

Steven: Josh bought a place that was falling apart and we were down there every night after work, til 10pm, then we’d go home, microwave our dinner, next morning we’d get up and go to the salon… every weekend as well. Constantly for nine months.

Michael: I don’t think that’s what I was expecting when I said how do you relax!

Steven: It is relaxing!

Gary: Where do you think the future lies for you both?

Josh: Me and Sophie will keep developing, and potentially bring my wife into the business. I want to just keep building and hopefully have team members that are willing to take on franchise salons and keep up with that. I don’t think we want to open any more group salons.

Gary: It would be great to end this interview with just a few words from you on Josh, and vice versa.

Steven: He’s actually exceeded any expectations I ever had. To have him doing what he’s doing in the industry just makes me so proud. To see him up there on stage, I feel like it’s me winning. That’s how proud I am.

Josh: I’m tearing up! Him and my mum are my backbone and have always supported me, through life and the industry. He was my best man, which says a lot. I idolise him really and he’s taught me everything in hairdressing and in life. Not just to be a hairdresser but to be a man and a dad too.

These guys epitomise what a family business is all about. They share a fantastic work ethic and have the upmost respect for each other’s role and position with the company. Speaking to the guys it’s clear to see why their hairdressing business has had such longevity with a hairdressing family that spreads throughout their fantastic team. From where we are sitting the Goldsworthy brand is in good hands for the future generations and beyond.

We salute you!

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Set realistic targets for each stylist breaking it down into easily digestible chunks monthly, weekly and daily.

Explain your expectation eg. x5 haircuts and x3 colours per day or a monetary value of how much revenue you’d expect each level of stylist to achieve daily. Targets need incentives, so you need to decide what is appropriate for you, your team and for individuals. Whether its commission and bonuses to extra holiday or flexible working hours decide what motivates them and give as a reward for achieving growth and success. Having different stylist levels with clear pricing offers clients choice but can also be used as a promotional tool to accelerate a stylists career. Achieving certain targets consistently over a period of time deserves a promotion and therefore an increased income, it also helps stylists to achieve price increases over time especially the busier and more successful they become.

Salon

The

I’ve always loved the hustle and bustle of salon life, being with the team and creating beautiful hair for our clients is what has kept me so excited about working as a stylist. There’s nothing quite like the atmosphere of a busy salon with a motivated team working together to create a confidence-boosting experience for each and every client.

Clients are more informed than ever on colouring and cutting techniques as well as products and therefore are ever more discerning on how and where they spend their money on hairdressing service. Clients will decide very quickly if they feel the service they receive is good value, often placing the experience high in their expectations.

With this in mind at Headmasters we have always rewarded our teams for their delivery of service and running a successful column.

Recognising our hardworking teams in the salon is key to a motivated and committed workforce and in an industry with a shortage of stylists, retaining our people is vital to the health of the business.

It’s wise to sit back from the business from time to time and take an honest look at how team members are rewarded. Acknowledging their hard work is a sure way of building the business and ensuring a healthy cash flow.

If you’re not sure where to start your investigation, here’s six of my tips that work for me at my Headmasters Mayfair salon where over the last financial year we have achieved a 23% increase in turnover.

Andrew Barton, Creative & Communications Director at Headmasters has made it his mission to champion the salon hairdresser, as the backbone of our wonderful industry. Here he talks about recognising and rewarding success moving into 2020.

1

2

Recognising long service in a business is an important way for stylists to feel valued. The industry does experience some level of transience and therefore acknowledging service every year after three or five years will help to make them feel appreciated.

3

We all need things to aim for and it should not just be about how many clients a stylist sees per day or how much retail they promote to their clients.

Ultimately hairdressers are creatives, so recognising their work is essential. This can be done in many ways from internal photographic competitions, giving stylists an opportunity to demonstrate their ideas to the team in a team meeting/soirée, investing in a photo shoot to capture the work of the team or supporting entering industry competitions are all ways of encouraging creativity and showing how valued a stylist is in the team.

4

Colour without doubt is the biggest growth area in the salon industry at the moment and setting targets for stylists to achieve personal growth in colour ratios and rewarding them for achieving their targets with shopping gift vouchers or creating an annual competition with a grand prize. At Headmasters we run a colour competition each year with the grand prize of winning a car for the stylist that achieves the most amount of colour services.

Each colour receives a ticket and the tickets accumulate over the year. Obviously this isn’t achievable for all salons but it’s good to think outside the box when it comes to rewards.

5

Appraisals are a brilliant way to ensure stylists feel they are part of the business and recognised for their contribution, a notable way to outline areas for improvement but an even greater way to acknowledge success. I’ve always believed in checking in daily with each member of the team for an overview and then booking weekly catch ups with each stylist regarding their targets to help motivate and keep everyone focused. It’s important to invest in annual appraisals and to make sure an appraisal form is circulated with each stylist at least a week before the appraisal date giving them time to recognise their achievements, areas of improvement and to prepare.

Diarise these appraisals to make sure each stylist is given time to discuss their goals and ambitions and how they are going to achieve them. I know it’s hard to take time out of the business however, appraisals are proven to ensure your team feel valued and in turn will reward the business.

Appraisals should also include an education focus to agree what further training each stylist needs to do their job best and achieve more success. Training should never be used randomly but should have a focused objective and action for example if a stylist is nervous of Balayage then this is the training they need to attend. The Headmasters London Academy offers a host of one day inspirational hairdressing courses for all levels of stylists.

6

Bringing your team together to celebrate success is imperative from a celebratory dinner, a mini conference or an away day all will encourage teams to be engaged with the business and feel part of the brand.

The annual Headmasters Awards, which have been running for nearly 20 years, is a glittering event with a celebrity host and is attended by over 1,000 of the Headmasters team. It includes a high-octane hair show by the Headmasters Creative Ambassadors and Artistic Team as well as seven Business and five Photographic Awards. This has always been an important date to the business to really acknowledge all of the teams’ hard work but also an opportunity for all the salons to come together and celebrate. No matter how large or small your team are coming together and recognise everyone’s input is key to business success. (See page 7) Also, at Headmasters we recognise elite stylists in our network with a bonus related ‘A List & Honour Achievers Programme’, who throughout the year achieve outstanding targets. Set up your own version of your elite club and reward them with something they aspire to but that also suits your business.

I hope this strategy to recognising your stylists’ success has helped you to look reflectively at your business and decide on actions that will help you to push forward in this new decade.

Here’s to a successful 2020!

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 13

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MANCHESTER CENTRAL 23TH-24TH FEBRUARY 2020

Samurai Scissors has become one of the leading scissor brands in the UK. Their three models are all made from Japanese stainless steel. The Shimasu is for students and early professionals. The Tora is for the more accomplished professional. The Hasaki is made from Hitachi steel and is a master level scissor. www.rdr./linkHM001

Alfa Italia styling tools give a professional show-stopping look that lasts all day. Inspired by the icons of Italian style and beauty, these essential styling tools have been beautifully crafted for quality, performance and reliability. Whether you’re in the salon, at home or on-the-go, Alfa Italia tools are your next beauty essential. www.rdr./linkHM002 Product launches: Get an exclusive first look at the up-coming product launches from Alfa Italia.

Introducing the new Forza hairdryer and straightener, uniquely designed with damage preventative titanium plates to reduce damage and and maintain shine.

Also launching will be new Viaggio hairdryer and straightener travel kits, perfect for that summertime trip or adventure.

Special offers: Alfa Italia will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

Sens.ús will be demonstrating their innovative products live on both days such as the brand’s PPD and ammonia free, naturally derived, vegan, permanent hair colour MC2. A revolution in hour colour, which is propelling salons forward in their marketplace. Visit the stand and discover for yourself. Join Jude Rizzo, Sens.ús International Style Director and team on the stand. www.rdr./linkHM003

BRAND SHOWCASE Welcome to our BRAND SHOWCASE, giving you an insight of what to expect at PRO HAIR LIVE MANCHESTER 2020 from some of the TOP PROFESSIONAL BRANDS in our industry. We stick to a SIMPLE PHILOSOPHY; providing you, as professionals, with brands relevant to your salon business. So here is just a taste of what’s in store - product launches, information and exclusives.

When you’re busy helping your customers look fabulous, you need taking payments to be effortless. With 12 month contracts, no joining fees and with a payment consultant local to you, it’s easy for your business to accept card payments. So, whether you’re new to cards or looking to switch provider, in the salon or on the road.

Takepayments’ range of card payment solutions make it easy for you to take payments. www.rdr./linkHM004

BOOK FREE TICKETS AT WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK 14 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

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PRO HAIR PREVIEW Alan Howard is the UK’s leading supplier of top brand hairdressing and beauty products, electricals, equipment and designer salon furnishings. With a brand new superstore recently opened in Belfast, they offer the most diverse range of professional hairdressing and beauty products at outstanding prices. www.rdr./linkHM005 Special Offers: Alan Howard will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

Professional haircare and tools for a lifestyle of self-expression and hair rebellion against conformity and the mundane. amika: effortlessly combines an array of vegetarian-friendly ingredients to create magic for every type of hair. www.rdr./linkHM09

Revolutionise how you manage your clients’ locks with Quif! Making colouring and styling easier than ever before whilst prioritising the health of hair. Quif offers a restorative shot into everyday damaging techniques to ensure hair is kept nourished and luxurious, without compromising on style. www.rdr./linkHM012 Product Launches: Experiment freely with colour without causing hair damage, with the revolutionary Quint:essential colour from Quif.

The Quint:Amine complex helps protect and condition the hair fibre during and after the colouring process, ensuring long lasting, healthy and shiny hair.

Product launches: Supernova Moisturizing Styling Cream and Supernova Blonde Moisturizing Styling Cream. These supreme leave-in creams weightlessly provide superior hydration and lightweight-conditioning, leaving hair supernaturally soft and smooth with brilliant shine.

Special Offers: amika will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

Special offers: Quif will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

FAB Hair has designed, created and manufactured products and equipment to help hair professionals in their skilled profession. Our range of seven friction hair tonics, skin care, hair enhancing fibres kits, ionic drop proof hairdryer and cordless airbrush compressors have been created by hair professionals for the hair professional. www.rdr./linkHM006

Once again, Bettertons will be giving you the opportunity to purchase your scissors, razors and blades, from their extensive range, including Joewell, AMA, Yasaka, Gotta and Feather. Their knowledgeable staff will be on hand to offer advice, and help you to choose your perfect cutting tool. New this year is the Joewell TJ, available in 5.25” and 5.75”. www.rdr./linkHM010 Ferrero will be displaying Kinder Bueno Minis and tic tac mints, the perfect accompaniment for a salon’s reception area and when offering hot and cold beverages to customers!

They will also be showcasing their NEW Thorntons Hot Chocolate Powder! Visit the stand to sit, chat and relax – try the products in the lounge. www.rdr./linkHM013

Weighing in at just 294gr, the new Gamma Professional iQ dryer from Salons Direct features a compact modern design with Intelligent digital technology and enhanced airflow. Its noise reduction is just 78db and is Oxy active for increased hair shine. The product also features an ingenious self-cleaning reverse mode and a brushless long life efficient motor. www.rdr./linkHM07 Introducing Hair Development’s ultimate Training Programme for Barbers, ‘Life After The Beard’. Non-surgical Hair Enhancement & Replacement. Imperative for your business, enabling you to keep your clients for life. Call now for reservations 020 7790 4567. www.rdr./linkHM011

Enki Towels is one of the leading brands for salon single-use towels in the UK. Their high-quality 100% plant fibre, hygienic, vegan, bio degradable and eco-friendly products make businesses lives easier by providing a sustainable solution that is cost-effective.

Enki supply all sectors including hair salons, barbers, beauty salons, sports & health clubs, healthcare and hospitality. www.rdr./linkHM08

Wahl will be returning to Pro Hair Live with top class education on stage and plenty of special offers available at the show. www.rdr./linkHM014 Chris Appleton – best known as the man that changed Hollywood hair.

The world-renowned go-to stylist for celebrities across the globe is here for one day only with Color Wow. Famous for creating the Kim KW Lob, and Jennifer Lopez’s most recent internet-breaking Versace runway look – Chris will be on stage showcasing his ground-breaking looks and on the Color Wow stage for a meet and greet. Don’t miss it! www.rdr./linkHM015

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Experience brush perfection at Pro Hair Live this year with Kent Salon. A dynamic collection of 19 brushes made for professionals by Kent, the oldest brush company in the world. No corners have been cut and no expense spared in their pursuit of perfection. These are not just typical hair brushes, these are precision tools for those seeking perfection from their kit. www.rdr./linkHM019

Sexy Hair knows no bounds when it comes to offering professional hair care and styling products. Driven by the passions of beautiful California, Sexy Hair lives to make hair as fabulous as possible with products that are formulated for all hair types. www.rdr./linkHM022 Special Offers: Sexy Hair will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

Synergising beauty, science and wellbeing at the forefront of hair technology. Nanokeratin System is a global Bio-technological pioneer, focused on researching and developing innovative methods and formulas to push the boundaries of science. www.rdr./linkHM016 Special Offers: Nanokeratin System will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

Coax your creativity and extend your professional services by offering clients fabulous hair extensions. Long recognised as the best in the business, Racoon International has provided premium quality hair, education and customer service for decades. Visit Stand E74 to find out more about the stylish versatility of Racoon’s Luxe Bond, Luxe Link and Luxe Weft systems. www.rdr./linkHM017

What’s hiding in your water? Your water is often the culprit of many common issues for the hair. Hard water mineral build-up on the hair can be a trigger for issues such as hair colour fading, poor grey coverage, brassy blondes and highlights that seem to disappear.

Luckily Malibu C products have the ability to rectify all of these issues, and more! www.rdr./linkHM020

Akito Scissors, an award winning brand created by hairdressers and barbers for hairdressers and barbers to whom we provide the finest tools for limitless creativity. Each Akito Scissor is hand-crafted, ergonomic and precision engineered to the highest standard by some of the world’s finest scissor-smiths providing you complete reliability, sensational cutting performance and maximum comfort. www.rdr./linkHM021

Professional styling tools for the creative, no-compromise hairdresser. HH Simonsen knows the importance of working with the right tools. The company offers products that are developed in collaboration with leading hairdressers and that always use the latest technology. It’s created a line of products equipped with the latest technology. www.rdr./linkHM018

16 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Ninja specialises in traditional Japanese craftsmanship with the technical manufacturing know-how.

The company is focused on improving its craftsmanship and technology to produce the finest Japanese hair styling scissors that are razor sharp and durable yet easy to handle at the same time to help hairdressers and barbers to perform at their best. www.rdr./linkHM023 Fueled by expressive inspiration and commitment to the development of salon professionals, Matrix pride themselves on offering an expert range of hair colour, texturising products and superb training to stylists. www.rdr./linkHM024 Matrix will be offering limited time only VAT free products and special offers throughout the show.

REVILINE® is an Italian company, gathering knowledge and traditions to create the high quality hair care products by the professional market needs.

REVILINE® products contain a high quality, natural ingredients composed in more than 500 formulas. This improves flexibility, texture, durability of cosmetic colour and hydration of the hair. REVILINE® products are dedicated to salons, professional hairdressers and stylists, also created in a smart way that consumers (by hairdresser recommendation) could use in every day hair care routines.

They offer products marked as “Made in Italy” which is an icon for quality, fashion, technology, tradition and professionalism: all that characterises REVILINE® hair care products. REVILINE® devote their work to serve YOU sincerely by providing quality products at competitive prices. www.rdr./linkHM025

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PRO HAIR PREVIEW Developed by barbers in Los Angeles, MVRCK is a complete line of trusted barbering products rooted in functionality and authenticity. Designed with the barber in mind, packaging features 2-in-1 flip-top/spin-off lids and trigger sprayers for no-fuss dispensing. All shave products contain barley seed extract to help reduce the appearance of razor bumps. www.rdr./linkHM029

Organic Colour Systems will showcase a unique and healthier way of working with their range of naturally based, high performance products including colour, care and styling. Plus, discover more about their longstanding green credentials and sustainable initiatives, which can positively benefit your business. www.rdr./linkHM026

HairFlair understands all hair types, and believes that Curlformers® are the best quality, no-heat hair curler in the world. From loose waves to volume they will achieve the look you desire.

The product offers a unique patented mesh construction, used to set hair as well as create the modern perm. With consistent results, this is growing in popularity as a salon service. Perfect for all hair types including wigs and weaves, they come in three different widths, Barrel, Spiral and Corkscrew and different lengths. www.rdr./linkHM027

There is an ever-increasing demand for higher quality hair extensions to keep in line with modern elite hair trends and creations. With this in mind, Zen Hair has dedicated its approach to produce a special hair range that would withstand today’s high expectations.

Established for over 35 years as leading experts in the industry, the company has gained a solid reputation for delivering on its promise. www.rdr./linkHM028 One of the UK’s leading supplier Kingdom Coffee of Fairtrade tea and coffee together with low cost, brand leading equipment available for next working day delivery across the UK. With a wide range of Fairtrade coffees and Clipper teas they can offer you fresh filter coffee for half the price of instant, let them show you how to treat your customers to a better cup of coffee without it costing you the Earth.

Online ordering available, trade accounts welcome. Visit them on stand number E64 for a show stopping deal! www.rdr./linkHM030

Clean-Cut Sharpening Centre We specialise in traditional Japanese hairdressing scissor sharpening using a flathone/ waterstone combination; we can restore 99% of scissors to an ‘as-new’ condition. Save money with our industry leading prices and workmanship. www.rdr./linkHM031

Neocape provides high quality cutting and colouring gowns, capes and collars that feature our special neoprene seal. They will be displaying the use of their innovative gowns, capes and collars, showing how they prevent hair and liquids from going down the neck, reducing the need for additional consumables such as paper and reducing the number of towels needed. These are the premium gowns available in the market and suit a premium service. www.rdr./linkHM032

BOOK FREE TICKETS AT WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK

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12.50 – 14.00 CHRISTOPHER APPLETON

#PROHAIRLIVE20 11.30 – 12.00 JUDE RIZZO

10.50 – 11.20 MICHAEL DOUGLAS TV hair personality Michael Douglas broadcasts to millions of viewers on BBC’s The One Show and ITV’s This Morning. As a seasoned session stylist he also enjoys an illustrious list of celebrity clients.

Sens.us International Style Director and UK Ambassador, Essex hairdresser Jude began her career under the guidance of Lee Stafford, Adee Phelan and the boys at Staffords, The House That Hair Built. A skilful and natural colourist, they adopted Jude as their colour genius working in the salon and on projects all over the UK. Jude opened her salon, Halo Hair and Beauty, in 2010 and since 2012 has been working with Sens.us.

12.10 – 12.40 ANDREW BARTON Acknowledged as hairdressing royalty, Andrew Barton is Headmasters Creative & Communications Director and Celebrity Hairdresser Ambassador for The Little Princess Trust.

Andrew is known for creating real looks for real women and is appearing on stage to showcase his beautiful work as Creative Director at Racoon Hair Extensions.

Chris Appleton is a British-born celebrity hair stylist whose A-list clients include Kim Kardashian, Katy Perry, Ariana Grande and Jennifer Lopez. Dubbed “the man who is re-defining Hollywood glam” by Grazia magazine, Chris is a top trendsetter in the industry and his widely-followed social media accounts (featuring his jaw-dropping celebrity hair transformations, plus no shortage of sizzling selfies) has earned him the title of Influencer of the Year at the 2019 American Influencer Awards. Chris, who is also the Brand Ambassador for Color Wow, will be bringing some of that Hollywood sparkle to the Pro Hair Stage in an hour long special show.

PRO HAIR LIVE STAGE SUNDAY 23TH FEBRUARY 2020

14.10 – 14.40 HOOKER & YOUNG

14.50 – 15.20 SUZIE MCGILL

15.30 – 16.00 PATRICK CAMERON

16.10 – 16.40 BALDY

These multi award winning showmen are just as at home on stage presenting to thousands of hairdressers, working on editorial campaigns and catwalk shows as they are with loyal clients in their salons. Come and watch the creative vision and the bespoke talent that is Gary Hooker and Michael Young.

Suzie is the leading member of Rainbow Room International’s Artistic Team and is the driving force behind their photographic shoots, which have received many awards and accolades. Suzie has previously been awarded the acclaimed BHA Scottish Hairdresser of the Year.

Master of long hair, visionary, innovator and educator, Patrick Cameron has built up an international reputation for his innovation in long hair techniques and education. He is very much focussed on bringing new and emerging trends to the industry and providing hairdressers with the tools to create these stunning looks for themselves. Come and watch this inspirational maestro at work as he demonstrates his bespoke techniques live on the main stage.

Baldy is one of the UK’s leading barbers and international educators. As the owner of Baldy’s he travels the world to inspire, present and teach precision cutting techniques and is the Lead European Educator for world-leading clipper and trimmer manufacturer, Andis Company.

With a high media profile, Baldy is often seen on stage at the world’s most prestigious shows and events.

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PRO HAIR PREVIEW

12.10 – 12.40 RICK ROBERTS 11.30 – 12.00 DESMOND MURRAY

10.50 – 11.20 STEVEN SMART Celebrating the 21st anniversary of his Somerset salon, Smart:Est 73, Steven Smart is a multi-award winning hairdresser, most recently claiming the coveted Women’s Commercial Collection trophy at the inaugural International Hairdressing Awards.

One of the most familiar faces on the hair scene, Desmond Murray is known for his bold vision and big personality – alongside a unique hairdressing talent. An accomplished hairdresser and photographer, Desmond is a seasoned international session and platform artist.

Rick is a multi-award winning stylist who has picked up awards around the globe and was most recently crowned British hairdressing awards Afro Hairdresser of the year at the British Hairdressing Awards.

Rick, who is also a Schwarzkopf Educator, will bring to the stage his unique presenting skills and will be demonstrating the latest hairdressing techniques for you.

12.50 – 13.20 ANDREW BARTON Acknowledged as hairdressing royalty, Andrew Barton is Headmasters Creative & Communications Director and Celebrity Hairdresser Ambassador for The Little Princess Trust.

Andrew is known for creating real looks for real women and is appearing on stage to showcase his beautiful work as Creative Director at Racoon Hair Extensions.

PRO HAIR LIVE STAGE MONDAY 24TH FEBRUARY 2020

13.30 – 14.00 JAMIE STEVENS

14.10 – 14.40 KARINE JACKSON

Jamie Stevens is renowned for his show-stopping creative work featuring texture and innovative techniques to wow the crowd grab a seat early to avoid disappointment! His 2020 stage show promises his inimitable brand of inspiration and education with a twist.

Karine Jackson is a pioneer of sustainable hairdressing and she will be demonstrating how ethical still means fashionable with a show for Curlformers by HairFlair. Expect curls and waves, a modern day organic perm (she does 4 a day in salon…) and some surprising stats about single use plastic.

14.50 – 15.20 JAMES EARNSHAW AND NAEEMAH LAFOND FOR AMIKA:

15.30 – 16.00 MICHAEL DOUGLAS CONCLUDES

James Earnshaw is a keen session stylist and regularly shoots for brands such as ASOS and Marie Claire magazine. He is also the new amika: U.K. Artistic Ambassador. Naeemah LaFond is a much sought-after editorial stylist and educator and a regular behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week. She is the Global Artistic Director for amika.

#yourhairanywhere Let celebrity hairdresser and TV personality sharpen up his session skills on you!

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 21

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BUSINESS &

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PRO HAIR PREVIEW

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★ LIVE ★

S U S T A i N A B L E

STAGE Sustainability is a lifestyle that we should all be embracing as we strive to make better choices for our planet. This is also true of our business lives and making the right business choices for you and your team and building sustainable relationships will help your business grow.

Sponsored by Easydry, Organic Colour Systems and the NHBF, the Business/Sustainability Stage will be looking at different ways to grow your business from becoming more green and reducing your carbon footprint and plastic usage to workforce wellbeing and growing your colour column.

★

in collaboration with

This year the Pro Barbering Stage in collaboration with Barber NV magazine and powered by WAHL will see Simon Shaw, one of the most inspiring and motivating hairdressers in the industry, bring to the stage with him some of the biggest hitters in barbering. Promising to be the best ever line-up, names include WAHL, the current BHA Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Jim Shaw and Menspire.

For 2020 the Fellowship for British Hairdressing will be returning to Pro Hair Live with a full stage line-up over the two days.

Promoting creative excellence and the very best of British professional hairdressing, the stage will be dedicated to Fellowship members’ talent and creativity.

BOOK FREE TICKETS AT WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK 22 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

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r u o l co

A call to

QUICK, AFFORDABLE AND LOW COMMITMENT, NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR SERVICE FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS WILL TRANSFORM YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR IN 10 MINUTES WHILST CONDITIONING IT.

24 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

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ADVERTORIAL

HOW-TO NO STRINGS ATTACHED FOR A BOLD LOOK

By Wella Professionals

Working in partnership with Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals shares with you how to create a bold, trendy look using only three products: Koleston Perfect ME+, Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer and INVIGO Post Color Treatment.

WHY DOES BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR ROBERT EATON RECOMMEND NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR IN YOUR COLUMN?

“I love the speed and the simplicity of No Strings Attached colour. It can fit into anyone’s column and complements the existing salon services easily. This brings to life KOLESTON PERFECT ME+ for hairdressers who are afraid of its commitment as they can now achieve low commitment colour results easily.”

ROBERT EATON Wella Professionals UK and Ireland Technical Director

ROB’S TOP TIP STEP 1

STEP 2

Choose your colour and pre-shampoo the hair.

Section the hair.

Leave a small section of the hair line to finish your application. This will create not only a point of interest but soften the hair line result.

STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

Mix and apply your colour.

One part Koleston Perfect ME+ One part Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer One part INVIGO Post Color Treatment.

Develop for between 5-10 minutes.

Rinse, there is no need to shampoo or condition. Style with EIMI.

FORMULATIONS FORMULA A: ● 9g Koleston Perfect ME+ 10/95+ 1g 0/65 ● 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer ● 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment

FORMULA B: 20g Koleston Perfect ME+ 10/95 full head and hair line ● 20ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer ● 20ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment ●

FORMULA C: 10g Koleston Perfect ME+ 9/04 ● 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer ● 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment ●

For more information about the No Strings Attached Colour Service contact your Wella Professionals Representative or your nearest Wella Studio: London: 0203 650 47 00, Manchester: 0161 834 26 45 and Dublin: 0035 314 160 900 Discover the products at uk.wellastore.com.

@WellahairUK #WellaColour #ColourFlirt

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 25

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

EXPRESS YOURSELF Schwarzkopf Professional launches CHROMA ID, its first 100% customisable, semi-permanent mix and tone colour system.

Express your creativity and enhance your clients’ identities with CHROMA ID, a semi-permanent colouring system with an infinite array of colour options from Schwarzkopf Professional. All about individuality, CHROMA ID offers a complete colour line with integrated bonding technology that shines a spotlight on the personality of each and every client.

For unlimited shade combinations with maximum customisation potential which will last for up to 15 washes, the 100% intermixable portfolio includes…

SIX At Home Bonding Colour Masks – to help your clients maintain or refresh their colour vibrancy between salon visits.

THIRTEEN Bonding Colour Mask – for low commitment colour services such as the enhancement or refreshment of dull midlengths and ends or the longevity enhancement of IGORA ROYAL or VIBRANCE shades.

SIX Intense Bonding Colour Masks – for bold and expressive colours, the customisation of Bonding Colour masks or the creation of pastel tones when intermixed with the Clear Bonding Mask.

INCLUDES Bonding Technology No Salt Technology Keratin and Panthenol

ONE Clear Bonding Mask – to reduce the intensity of Bonding Colour Masks or to create pastel tones.

TRY IT ON For the first time ever, Schwarzkopf Professional has integrated Augmented Reality functionality into the House of Color app, powered by CHROMA ID. This means you can excite your clients, whilst also managing expectations, as you virtually ‘try on’ personalised colours as part of the consultation experience.

A series of nine exciting looks, with detailed step-by-step content has also been created for limitless colour inspiration. Plus, from March, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks Collection will feature the trend, #CAMOUFLAGING, which will showcase a seasonal palette of pastel colour melts, created with CHROMA ID – perfect for spring/summer 2020.

Find out more at www.rdr.link/HM036 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 27

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10 10

COLOUR CLOSE UP

Quick, affordable and low commitment, No Strings Attached Colour by Wella Professionals is a 10-minute colour service that conditions while it colours.

Whether you are looking for a way to entice colour-shy clients into colour, a way to help your colour-adventurous clients change their look on a regular basis without the commitment, or a service for time-poor beauty addicts, No Strings Attached Colour is a profitable, cost-effective service enabling more clients to engage in colour.

Using Koleston Perfect ME+, this easy three-step service has an astonishing colour palette with 131 shades to choose from. The colour is mixed with a Wella Professionals conditioning treatment to give maximum condition and shine for that immaculate finish.

E

SIMPL

3STEPS CHOOSE

MIX

APPLY

There are 131 Koleston Perfect ME+ shades for you and your client to choose from.

1-part Koleston Perfect ME+ + 1-part Welloxon Perfect 1.9% + 1-part INVIGO Post Color Treatment/Elements Conditioner/System Professional Color Save Conditioner.

Apply the mixed shade to pre-shampooed, towel dried hair and develop for 5-10 minutes.

This can be applied at the backwash or at the styling station, with no need to shampoo or condition – just rinse.

“No Strings Attached colour is e-energising the colour business. For many colourists this gets them working with KOLESTON PERFECT ME+ again and is an addition to the portfolio that’s going to add great value in terms of revenue and meeting clients’ needs.”

ROBERT EATON Wella Professionals UK and Ireland Technical Director

NO STRINGS ATTACHED COLOUR MENU First Timer – upgrade your look with a low commitment colour service.

Test the Trend – offer a brand-new look with low commitment – choose from 131 shades.

Cool Blonde – neutralise those unwanted tones without exposing natural warmth.

Refresh – add shine and colour to faded lengths and ends after a regrowth application.

HINTS AND TIPS CARE & STYLING...

To help the No Strings Attached Colour last longer use Color Motion+ Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask.

Use INVIGO Aqua Pure Shampoo in order to try the next No Strings Attached Colour sooner.

Velvet Amplifier is a velvety soft primer which improves hair manageability and styling control for smooth responsive styling.

FOR MORE INFORMATION HEAD TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HM037

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PEOPLE

THE VISIONARIES IS A YEAR-LONG PROGRAM DESIGNED BY REVLON PROFESSIONAL AND MARK LEESON TO EXPLORE CREATIVITY WHILE LEARNING HANDS-ON STAGE AND EDITORIAL SKILLS.

V

Delivered by multi award winner and Revlon Professional Global Artistic Ambassador Mark Leeson and a team of leading experts, the VISIONARIES encompasses not only a celebration of originality and creativity with techniques that showcase all the options the Mark Leeson explains, “The Revlon Professional VISIONARIES hairdressing industry offers but with each IN-Dulgent Collection was all about editorial creativity and module they can take the skills they have learnt straight back to the salon. A big explores the vision of the team which was collectively fused part of the project is an editorial shoot, together. Cool and contemporary, extravagant and diverse, the where the VISIONARIES team are able to IN-Dulgent Collection focuses on a mix of beautiful shapes and put all they have learnt into practise to create a photoshoot worthy of a place on textures that are undone and free without contradiction” the pages of Professional Hairdresser.

Lisa Jackson, GM Revlon Professional and American Crew UK and IE comments, “At Revlon Professional we always want to support emerging talent especially from our own industry.

The opportunities that the VISIONARIES have to spend with our Global Artistic Ambassador Mark Leeson is phenomenal let alone the experiences the Revlon corporation can support them with, for example presenting live on stage for Revlon Professional in Italy in 2019.”

ISIONARIES

Professional Hairdresser talks to the 2019 Revlon Professional team:

Aaron Jones, Aaron Jones Hairdressing What made you want to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES program with Mark Leeson?

My main reason for joining the VISIONARIES program was to learn how to not only step my game up a notch, but to learn how to project myself as an artist across as many platforms as possible.

What was your favourite moment of being part of the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? Honestly, I’d say my favourite moment of the VISIONARIES process was walking into the Worx studio in London for the first time. Not only did we meet some amazing people here but walking into that studio was so surreal for me. Just taking it all in and looking around seeing that we were shooting in such a prestigious studio was an amazing feeling.

What important lessons/skills did you bring back to your salon?

The most important lesson I learnt overall was just to have fun again in such a hard industry. We constantly undergo pressures in an everyday salon environment to be like another stylist, to meet

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social media expectations and have a reference point to work towards, but the VISIONARIES made me remember that this is an artistic platform....

CREATE! Creativity runs within the blood of this industry, and it isn’t brain surgery, have some fun!

Tell us one thing you will never forget from working with Mark Leeson and the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? There’s a lot I could say I won’t forget, but it was the people for me. Not only Mark or the rest of the VISIONARIES team but the Revlon family in general... Amazing people and that real old school passion for creativity is so present through absolutely all of them.

What is the biggest piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme?

Forget the basics and think outside the box! Go into it with the mentality that this program is there to enjoy, don’t stress and just be yourself. This program will unlock the “how to” so make sure you take it all in! If you have the vision, this programme will help it become a reality.

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Leanne Carpenter, Kolours and Kuts What made you want to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme with Mark Leeson?

I saw joining the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES team as a great platform to push myself. To step outside of my comfort zone and gain opportunities and experiences that you just don’t get from being in the salon. Sometimes when working in a salon, we forget that there is a whole other hairdressing world out there!

What was your favourite moment of being part of the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? My favourite moment had to be in Italy (not only the fact we were in Italy!!) but to have worked on all the models the day before the show and then sit back and watch the rehearsals and see the hair and clothing and makeup come to life on a catwalk!

Our photoshoot in the Worx also was a favourite! Never did I think I would be part of my own collection so that was a little dream come true. It’s also where I think we really gelled as a team and pushed each other, of course with Mark and Richard’s help as they create such a calming, fun environment to work in.

What important lessons/skills did you bring back to your salon?

The one skill that sticks out the most to me has to be the simplest way to backcomb hair. I told

Robyn Vickers, Browns What made you want to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme with Mark Leeson?

I wanted to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES team to push myself further and achieve new goals, all while being surrounded by some of the most inspirational people in the industry. I knew this would be the perfect opportunity for me to gain more knowledge and thrive.

What was your favourite moment of being part of the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? My favourite moment while being a part of Revlon Professional VISIONARIES was working alongside Mark and the other guys to plan and create our very own photo shoot from scratch, this was an amazing opportunity to get creative and think about the images from every angle such as the make-up and styling.

What important lessons/skills did you bring back to your salon?

Being part of Revlon Professional VISIONARIES has helped me in the salon by making me more confident and giving me a greater understanding on how to create the perfect camera-ready image.

Mark it was genius! So simple and works every time, it’s fool proof. I have been showing all the girls back at the salon and they love it too. I also really benefitted from some of the cutting techniques that Mark showed us, although I know how to cut it was the little tips of how to take your cut to the next level and then where to apply colour to compliment, again… genius!

Tell us one thing you will never forget from working with Mark Leeson and the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? I don’t think I will ever forget any of the experience. I hope Mark realises how much of an impact he has had on our careers. The whole experience is something I talk about daily to my clients, colleagues and friends and I am so grateful! It’s been one of those things that you never want to end and hopefully you haven’t seen the last of us just yet!

What is the biggest piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme?

My biggest piece of advice would be… DO IT!!!

Of course it’s scary to put yourself out there and be judged by one of the biggest hairdressing icons, but it’s the entering in the first place that will make you a better hairdresser than you were before and if you get in it’s 100% going to be one of the best opportunities in your career!

Tell us one thing you will never forget from working with Mark Leeson and the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? One thing I will never forget while working with Mark is being asked to attend KROMATIKA in Italy with him. This was an amazing experience where we helped with colouring and styling 10 models for a catwalk show. It was like nothing I’ve ever done before and was inspirational to watch it all come together.

What is the biggest piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme?

My advice for anyone considering taking part in the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES is throw yourself at every opportunity you get, observe everything Mark and Richard do as they are full of so much creative knowledge its incredible!

Erin McGlade, Strand Hair What made you want to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme with Mark Leeson?

The reason I entered the VISIONARIES was to challenge myself and come out of my comfort zone as I hadn’t ever done any work out of the salon like this before and I’ve always had a big interest in fashion/editorial work.

What was your favourite moment of being part of the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? It’s really hard to pick one specific favourite moment from my time on the VISIONARIES as it was filled with so many amazing moments and opportunities. One memory that really stands out is when we were in London on the last shoot which we thought you just couldn’t top. Then Mark and Richard asked us to go Italy for a hair show. I just couldn’t believe it – it was an emotional rollercoaster!!

What important lessons/skills did you bring back to your salon?

I learnt a lot from working on the VISIONARIES team, my grooming, styling and cutting skills improved significantly, which really built my confidence all round in salon. When I look at hair now, I see it differently than I did before.

Tell us one thing you will never forget from working with Mark Leeson and the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES? Learning and watching Mark, showed me with a lot of hard work and perseverance you can achieve anything you put your mind too. Aside from that I’ll never forget the friends I made on the journey.

What is the biggest piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to join the Revlon Professional VISIONARIES programme?

My biggest piece of advice I would give anyone considering entering just do it! I nearly didn’t and look at everything I would have missed out on. It’s a chance of a life time!!

Mark Leeson concludes, “The Revlon Professional Visionaries 2019 team were amazing... full of excitement and enthusiasm and all had different qualities in terms of skills and aspirations. Each one of the four were at different levels in their careers so it was more about nurturing and elevating their own skill set and exposing them to different parts of our industry that they wouldn’t ordinarily be part of. It was so refreshing and rewarding to work with such passionate young talent and I know they learnt so much from all the different segments of the project. Watching their confidence grow but also listening to their ideas was really impressive and it was a pleasure to be their mentor.”

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Visionaries 2019 Hair Revlon Professional UK VISIONARIES 2019 Robyn Vickers/Erin Mcglade/Aaron Jones/Leanne Carpenter Make-up Lauren Mathis Styling Bernard Connolly Photography Richard Miles Creative Direction Mark Leeson & Richard Darby

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Jamie Stevens Hair Hair Harry Casey & Marney Lion for Jamie Stevens Make-up Maddie Wride & Selena Baker Photography Jamie Blanshard Products L’Oréal Professionnel Electricals Hot Tools

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Hooker & Young Hair Gary Hooker & Michael Young Make-up Megumi Styling Clare Frith Photography Michael Young

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MEN’S

1.

3.

2.

4.

5.

6.

IN THE LONG RUN FOLLOW THE STEPS TO RECREATE THIS RAZOR SHARP, SUPER TEXTURED, LONG HAIR LOOK BY ROSS CHARLES. 1. Begin with parting the hair in a clean, crisp line down

the centre of the head. Section the back of the hair and spray with a lubricant to ensure your razor glides through the hair.

2. Using a 45° angle, cut the hair section above your fingers

by gently sliding down the hair shaft to begin to bring in that shape to the hair. Follow this technique through with each section of hair until you are at the front.

3. Elevate a crown section and direct peel cut to the desired length. Use your thumb and the razor blade to sandwich the hair and cut in an upward motion.

4. Following this, you will be required to re section the hair. Take vertical sections and back comb them with the 100% cut side of a carving comb leaving the interior strands free. With the 50% cut side simply glide through the interior strands to take bulk out of the hair. This is a very effective seamless way to take the bulk out exactly where needed.

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5. To style you can finger dry the hair or use a diffuser for

a natural textured look to really bring out all of the texture and structure you have just created within the hair. The shorter pieces inside the hair cut will act as scaffolding to support the longer lengths which will allow you to create shape and movement.

6. Finish with a salt spray to add definition and movement,

the Ross Charles Sea Salt Spray is perfect for this step and one of my favourites.

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SPOTLIGHT

NEÄL & WØLF’S MEN’S COLLECTION HAS A PRODUCT TO CLICK WITH EVERY MALE CLIENT.

Whatever the look your male clients are asking for, with Neäl & Wølf’s range of shampoos, styling products and treatments, men can indulge in luxury every day. No matter what the hair type, from dry and damage, fine, frizzy to thick and oily, the Men’s Collection will transform any style.

01 STYLE SHAPING CREAM Created by experts, the 01 STYLE is a flexible cream designed to give hair the definition it deserves. Its unique blend of ingredients creates a light condition base lock that forms shape, adds texture and leaves a healthy shine to hair.

COMPLETE 3-IN-1 Blending milk and silk proteins with Panthenol and Shea Butter, COMPLETE is a shampoo, conditioner and shower gel in one that provides skin with moisture and hair with added shine. It’s sulfate, paraben, DEA, TEA and cruelty free.

02 CREATE MATTIFYING PASTE 02 CREATE’s unique blend of Kaolin, Shea Butter and Beeswax creates a workable paste, which is particularly effective for lighter hair as it doesn’t darken or dull. The blend was specifically designed to give a flexible, medium hold and matte appearance, making it ideal for textured messy styles in short or medium length hair.

03 DEFINE MOULDING CLAY Combining natural Beeswax, Cocoa Butter and Kaolin, the 03 DEFINE helps to create an effortless style with touchable texture. The pliable clay is perfect for reworking styles, leaving a textured and matte finish.

04 DESIGN POMADE 04 DESIGN is a water-based formula designed to give hair a firm, slick finish. It helps to sculpt the perfect style with our versatile firm hold wax for extreme definition, added moisture and a glossy finish.

05 SHAPE PLIABLE PASTE 05 SHAPE lets you style hair with confidence. Specially formulated, this texturing paste gives a strong hold that improves definition and is perfect for shorter styles.

06 FORM SCULPTING LOTION Designed to help shape and hold, 06 FORM adds both texture and shine whilst offering medium hold. It retains moisture and contains UV filters to help prevent sun damage.

FOR MORE INFORMATION HEAD TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HM038

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Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional

THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT

AS WE HEAD INTO A NEW SEASON IT’S THE PERFECT TIME TO CHAT TO YOUR FASHION FORWARD CLIENTS ABOUT SWITCHING UP THEIR STYLES. TALKING TRENDS CAN BE A GREAT WAY TO KEEP YOUR CLIENTS COMING BACK FOR MORE, AS THEY SEE YOU AS AN AUTHORITY ON WHICH MEN’S LOOKS ARE CURRENTLY IN FASHION, SO YOU NEED TO BE IN THE KNOW. HERE FOUR TOP MEN’S HAIRDRESSERS GIVE US THE LOW DOWN ON LONGER LENGTHS AND SHORTER STYLES FOR THE COMING SEASON.

JONATHAN ANDREW

“I think everything is going softer for 2020, there will be a much bigger emphasis on texture. I think there are a lot of influences coming from the k-pop world and guys are really experimenting with their looks. I still see hair being shorter on the sides but with much more length on top. I also see guys going for longer hair in general, the mullet toyed with a come back last year and although I don’t see it making a return to its original form, I think elements are trickling in to modern techniques.

I think you should be ready for anything, the consumer is much more knowledgeable and direct in their wishes so I see lots of new looks being born, I’m really starting to see my gents coming in very informed in the looks they want but I’m preparing to give the right guidance to make it work for the individual.

Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional

Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional

I think particularly in London I’m seeing so many different models hitting the runways and the traditional Abercrombie and Fitch guys having some serious competition, there are so many different guys in town now from all walks of life and I for one am really excited to see what 2020 brings.”

Jonathan Andrew, Brand Ambassador for Fudge Professional

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MEN’S TRENDS

Ross Charles

ROSS CHARLES

“Men’s hair has undergone a bit of an evolution process and in 2020 I believe we can expect to see strong influences coming from previous decades, in particular the 1960’s and 1970’s. During this era, hairstyling and grooming for men began to rise in popularity and this was no longer just a market for women. Individuality was celebrated and encouraged during this era and I think this is one element of the 70’s that is most definitely recurrent in 2020.

Longer hair for men emerged in the 60’s and evolved into what we know as the mullet in the 70’s. Today we have access to so many amazing tools and resources to help us create texture and styles reminiscent of the 70’s and I think 2020 is the year to truly unleash the potential of this.

In this new decade, hair will be stronger and mostly mid-length but working with lots of movement and strong shapes. A return to longer length can definitely be expected and this contrasted against the traditional fade is a look that was touched upon during 2019 but 2020 will see this style in the spotlight.

Ross Charles

Longer lengths with slightly disconnected pieces to encourage texture and movement are another look to take note of for 2020. The epitome of 70’s style, the shag is an iconic symbol of this decade that transfers well into 2019.

The laidback, deliberately messy vibe of this look really interests me and the use of layering and varied styling is a perfect pairing. For this style, the cut is key. Layers are required to frame the face and allow that ‘shaggy’ texture.

Low maintenance and effortlessly understated, this look is easy to keep up with and requires little maintenance.

Ross Charles

Texture and that ‘undone’ look are also set to be popular during 2020. Add texture with products like sea salt and thermal styling for longer hair. For shorter lengths, use a clay wax to add a textured edge to your style. Clays and wax will help you get inside the hair and create innovative shapes with defined texture for an on trend look.”

Ross Charles, Owner of Ross Charles Hair

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JIM SHAW Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter

Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter

“Currently and coming into 2020, men’s haircuts are becoming tailored but longer.

Precision cuts are also incredibly popular, however, they are not so barbered and have an effortless structure. I think what’s next for men’s hair is strong structured looks with movement and expensive, rich looking hair – not hair that is out to shock.”

Jim Shaw, Owner and Director of TONI&GUY Billericay

Joe Mills

“A look at the catwalks show that long layers are back – think shoulder-length hair with movement, and grown-out crops with soft texture. Natural, drier textures are continuing to be popular and this season it’s all about encouraging your natural texture rather than fighting against it.

JOE MILLS

The quiff is the one style that never goes out of fashion – and this season it’s at the forefront of fashion with a bang! Whether it’s Elvis or Morrisey that is the inspiration, the 2020 version is all about keeping it soft, with subtle just-got-out-of-bed floppiness and encouraging your natural texture and movement.”

Joe Mills, Founder of The Lounge Soho and Joe and Co Joe Mills

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ADVERTORIAL

CYBERSECURITY IS YOUR SALON SAFE FROM CYBERCRIMINALS?

range of F offers a The NHB rvices for se support business ns, from eauty salo al hair and b nd financi a t n ployme legal, em d nte to discou ce for guidance xpert advi e d n a ce sting o o insuran b d people an g in g a n a m ness. your busi info f. h .n w w w

The NHBF For less than 80p a day, the NHBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without it! Find out more: nhf.info Join the NHBF before the end of February 2020 and quote PHF25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

SMALL BUSINESSES SUCH AS SALONS CAN BE AN EASY T A R G E T F O R C Y B E R C R I M I N A L S , S AY S N H B F F I N A N C E D I R E C T O R K I S H O N M A T H E R . “ S A F E R I N T E R N E T D AY O N 1 1 T H F E B R U A RY I S A G R E AT R E M I N D E R T H AT I T ’ S C R U C I A L TO PROTECT YOUR BUSINESS AGAINST CYBERCRIME WHICH C A N H AV E A C ATA S T R O P H I C E F F E C T O N Y O U R F I N A N C E S A N D A L S O D A M A G E Y O U R R E P U TAT I O N . ” DON’T FALL FOR PHISHING ATTACKS The latest government figures for 2019 show that 80% of UK businesses received phishing emails. Phishing attacks are fake emails that ask for banking details or passwords and provide links to scam websites.

“Always look out for signs of fake emails such as poor spelling, poorly reproduced logos and suspicious email addresses,” says Kishon. “Ensure your staff know that they must not follow links from emails sent to your business accounts. If you suspect a phishing attack has taken place, carry out a virus scan and change your passwords.

Find out how to protect your business: nhf.info/cyber-threats PASSWORD PROTECTION “There are some basic measures you can take to reduce the risk of a cyberattack,” says Kishon. “For example, make sure all the salon and mobile devices you use are password/pin or fingerprint protected.

“Avoid having the same password for all your accounts, and never choose passwords that would be easy to guess.

Have different passwords for your email account, client details, staff details, bank account and any other business-related accounts you have.”

ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE Always use anti-virus software on all your devices, including mobile phones and tablets. Make sure firewalls are switched on and always carry out anti-virus updates when the system prompts you to.

“Make a regular backup of all your electronic data,” says Kishon. “But ensure your backup files are not permanently connected to your main computer system, either physically or via a local network.”

SECURING MOBILE DEVICES “Configure mobile devices so they can be locked or tracked if they’re stolen,” says Kishon, “and don’t use old devices that are no longer supported by the manufacturer’s updates.”

Avoid public Wi-Fi hotspots as they are not secure enough and may put your sensitive data at risk. It’s safer to use a 3G or 4G hotspot instead.

“Always keep track of all the mobile devices that are used in connection with your business so you know where they are and who has them. Limit the number of people allowed to take them off-site to reduce the risk of loss or theft.”

SALON SOFTWARE Work with your salon software provider to ensure your data is protected and always inform them if you suffer a cyberattack or security breach.

GDPR – STAY LEGAL Client and employee data is very valuable to cybercriminals and strict data protection laws under GDPR means you must ensure the data you hold is secure and protected.

NHBF Members can download a detailed guide to GDPR (nhf.info/gdpr-guide) and ready-to-use templates (nhf.info/gdpr-templates).

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 59

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THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP

WHAT’S NEW Miele has launched the Little Giant PW5062 washing machine. It features fast, large load cycles, washing 8kg in just 49 minutes. Its 59-litre honeycomb drum can take on 23 hairdressing towels in one wash, extending the life and quality of the fabric. Miele machines are also highly eco friendly. www.rdr./linkHM039

YELLOW has developed a multi-action line clinically proven to boost hair growth by up to 44% in four weeks. Easy Long consists of a shampoo, conditioner and tonic that work on the hair follicle to create optimal conditions for faster hair growth and work to strengthen and nourish the lengths and ends. www.rdr./linkHM040

The ‘Love Aura’ Color Intensity collection from JOICO is an artistic palette of whimsical shades designed by brand ambassador Larisa Love. The new shades are perfect for experimenting with bright colours. They are totally intermixable, delivering endless creative options and last for up to 20 shampoos. www.rdr./linkHM041

Saco Supernature Densifying Shampoo and Conditioner is an advanced technology complex perfect for fine and thinning hair. The range is enriched with Amla, Biotin and Saw Palmetto extract to densify the hair and clear follicles whilst lightly nourishing both hair and scalp to promote hair growth. www.rdr./linkHM042

Neäl & Wølf MIRACLE Blow-Dry Mist is specially formulated to repel water from the hair’s surface to achieve the ultimate rapid blow-dry. The spray is made with shea butter to boost shine and reduce frizz, strengthen individual strands, and ultra-lightweight conditioners to protect hair from heat damage. www.rdr./linkHM043

The Electric London WT-2 Professional Straightening Iron features digital temperature control and titanium plates for a smooth glide through any hair type. The programmable automatic shut off prevents over heating while the dual heaters work to provide fast heat up, fast recovery and consistent heat while styling. www.rdr./linkHM044

HH Simonsen has introduced the ‘Nourishing Styler’, a luxury styling iron that reconstructs and protects hair as you style. The styler uses HH Simonsen Keratin Fuel which, when heated, transforms to a vapour that rebuilds the natural keratin level in hair. The styler heats up to 230°C and will switch to ‘sleep mode’ if unused for 60 minutes. www.rdr./linkHM045

Argan RainCoat Humidity Shield by Hair Xpertise is an all over protective coat that blocks moisture allowing hair to remain frizz free with incredible shine and a silky smooth finish. It protects against humidity, heat, UV damage and unwanted frizz and contains heat activated technology which will hold styles in place for up to three times longer. www.rdr./linkHM046

milk_shake K-Respect is an innovative smoothing system for all hair types. Containing keratin and Amazonian oils, it eliminates frizz and smooths hair for three to five months. Not only is this great for clients with unruly hair, but the eco-friendly packaging encourages recycling and reduces the volume of plastic waste from your salon. www.rdr./linkHM047

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Two new products have been added to Schwarzkopf Professional’s Oil Ultime assortment. Castor Seed Cleansing Oil has a lightweight, non-greasy oil texture that cleanses and cares for the scalp. Mediterranean Finishing Oil prevents holiday hair damage. The silicone free formula leaves hair radiant and smooth. www.rdr./linkHM048

New to Maletti Group’s Madam collection is the BRENTA Styling Unit. Created for today’s contemporary salon, the unit gives the vibe of an informal lounge where clients can relax in an inviting and welcoming environment furnished with style. It is a steel frame wall-mounted unit with and aluminium shelf and hairdryer holder. www.rdr./linkHM049

Keratin Complex has unveiled a new transformative product – Keratin Obsessed. The lightweight, all-in-one spray delivers instant results along with 30 nourishing benefits including damage repair, intensifying colour vibrancy, and increasing manageability. It’s formulated with Keratin and Coconut Oil and is paraben free. www.rdr./linkHM050

Andis Company has unveiled the stunning new Sugar Skull colourway for the popular Cordless USPro Li Clipper. The performance first clipper is engineered to charge in just 90 minutes, run non-stop for two hours, and it has a powerful rotary motor and precision carbon steel blade to glide through all hair types with ease. www.rdr./linkHM051

New from Passion 4 Hair is the Malibu C Color Disruptor. Its creamy consistency makes for easy application to loosen dye molecules for easier removal. It can be used on oxidative hair and direct dyes and is formulated without gluten, sulfate surfactants and parabens. It is also 100% vegan and cruelty free. www.rdr./linkHM052

JOICO Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner instantly cool brassy tones and brighten blonde hair helping to maintain healthy hair with brilliant shine. The perfect take-home product after a blonde colour service, clients should use both products two to three times a week for icy cool results. www.rdr./linkHM053

S U S T A i N A B L E

Authentic Beauty Concept has launched a high performing, vegan, multi-tasking oil.

Indulging Fluid Oil has been created to suit all hair types with a number of benefits including smoothing frizz, sealing split ends and adding a high gloss finish. It also comes in a 100% recyclable glass bottle and folding packaging. www.rdr./linkHM054

Organic Colour Systems Activated Charcoal Shampoo is a gentle exfoliator that draws out and absorbs excess oils, dirt, toxins and unpleasant smells from the hair and scalp. For use before any service apart from perming, the new shampoo will work in conjunction with the System to prepare hair for colouring. www.rdr./linkHM055

Moo Hair Miracle Mask uses 100% pure Fairtrade Marula Oil to leave hair feeling rehydrated, strong, silk and shiny. The oil and Icelandic moss lock in moisture, protecting hair from the effects of UV exposure and environmental toxins, while repairing and strengthening. www.rdr./linkHM056

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Get the look Create A-Lister glamour with the new ghd helios.

Prep the hair using ghd root lift spray. 쑼 Section the hair into six subsections; five around the circumference of the head and one on top. 쑼 Starting at the front hairline, take a 1 inch section. 쑼 Place the brush on top of the section and blow the hairline back. 쑼 Roll the hair around the brush to the root and direct the ghd helios at the hair. 쑼 Roll down into a barrel curl and pin. 쑼 Continue into the nape and the back two sections. 쑼 In the sections in front of the ear, direct the barrel curl towards the hairline. 쑼 Crash cool the barrel curls using the cool shot button. 쑼 Using a ghd oval dressing brush, tease the roots back and fan out using your fingers.

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TRUE COLOURS

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Let your true colours shine through with the new ghd helios. This stylish new hairdryer comes in four chic shades so clients can not only meet their hair needs but match their style as well.

White Who says tech can’t be sexy? The white Helios brings to mind a 70s dream vision of the future – contrasting a clean and streamlined palette against the sensually ergonomic curves and sleek lines. Nodding to the stripped-back take on Studio 54 that’s thriving in 2020, the futuristic white and glittering rose-gold combine to demonstrate that disco’s not dead – it’s just had a minimal makeover.

Think: Futuristic 70s suiting at Paco Rabbane, second-skin, super-sexy sports whites at Dion Lee and reconstructed modern suiting at David Koma.

Black You can’t beat a classic, but this season’s back to black is all about a 90s simplicity and minimalism. Designers reinterpreting the decade this time around are inspired by the clean lines, relaxed tailoring and everyday staples of the era – think Gwyneth Paltrow in Calvin Klein. Straightforward? Yes. Boring? Anything but.

Paired with understated nickel trim, this minimalist luxury is what Helios Black is all about; simple, elegant and eternally on-trend.

Think: The Row’s luxurious modern classics, Chanel’s back-to-basics monochrome and Saint Laurent’s ever-sexy silhouettes in a strict palette of black, black and more black.

Plum When Pantone calls a colour, you know it’s on track to become a trend, and the unexpected elegance of their plummy purple tone ‘Grape Compote’ is on the 2020 hotlist for fashion shades to watch. As well as being a gorgeous shade for hair, it’s also a trending choice for Helios – directional, unexpected and experimental while maintaining the mysterious, sophisticated vibes that purple always brings. Combined with rose-gold detailing, it’s a playful colour combo that’s perfect for those in search of what’s now, new – and next.

Think: Valentino’s romantic swooping gowns in earthy aubergine, Bottega Veneta’s innovative structures in deep plum and Richard Malone’s head-to-toe purple tones.

Ink Blue Perennially chic, perfectly polished and always elegant, inky blue is a modern classic. For those embracing the slower pace of the trend cycle, timeless navy provides an always-relevant, works-with everything option. Much like the revival of traditional suiting on the runways (welcome back, waistcoats!), the Ink Blue Helios proves that there’s nothing like a classic – but there’s also room for a trend-led twist, like that perfect gunmetal detailing.

Think: Celine’s entirely modern take on navy pinstripe suiting, the Sportmax reinterpretation of nautical tailoring and Prada’s stripped-back sensibility.

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A WHITER SHADE OF PALE

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Get the look Create this luscious Luxury Waves look with the new ghd helios.

Prep the hair using ghd root lift spray and ghd total volume foam. 쑼 Take a section above the ear. 쑼 Place a ghd size 2 ceramic brush vertically in the hair, wrapping the hair away from the face. 쑼 Direct the airflow around the ceramic brush. 쑼 Unwind the hair. 쑼 Rewind and continue to shape the hair around the brush. 쑼 Continue until you reach the end of the hair. 쑼 Continue until all the hair has been dried this way, always wrapping away from the face. 쑼 Dress using a ghd detangling comb to blend the curls.

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MASTER BLASTER Mastering the home blow-dry is essential for clients so consultation is key in recommending retail.

Everyone knows how important a consultation is when it comes to collaborating with your client on a new cut or colour, but how much consulting do you undertake when it comes to recommending retail?

With the launch of ghd’s brand new professional hairdryer, ghd helios, we spoke to UK education manager Janine Jennings to get the low-down on why consultation is key.

“For ghd, consultation is key at every stage of an appointment – including

when it comes to suggesting home care and the all-important styling tools required to help your client maintain their look at home”, says Janine.

“When it comes to hairdryers, clients might be forgiven for thinking it’s a case of one-size-fits-all, but with the right questions and getting to know their at-home habits, you’ll be able to advise them on the best way to style their hair and work towards their own unique hair needs.”

For further information, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400.

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Blaster The Blaster says… “I can’t do a blow-dry with a brush – I just want to get my hair dry as fast as possible!”

The Blaster is all about speed and simplicity; they want a frizz-free finish as quickly as possible, before finishing off their look with a styler or other heated tool.

Did you know? ghd discovered that 47% of hairdryer users prefer to rough-dry their hair, then follow up with another tool.

The key Helios benefit for a Blaster? Speed! The ultra-powerful 2200 Watt brushless motor is designed for fast drying, creating a powerful yet highly-concentrated airflow which travels at 120km/h to drastically speed up styling. Don’t forget that all-important cool shot button, for a quick blast of air to lock a finished look in place.

Is your client a BLASTER or a BRUSHER?

Brusher

The Brusher says… “I’ve mastered blow-drying with a brush – now, how do I make my at home blow even more pro?”

The Brusher is all about creating a smooth, sleek salon-worthy finish, with an easy-to-handle, lightweight dryer that does the hard work for them by styling as they dry.

Did you know? Somewhere between 30-40% of hairdryer users are able to dry and style simultaneously by sectioning and using a brush.

The key Helios benefit for a Brusher? Precision and control.

The ultra-lightweight Helios is made for easy handling, and the Aeroprecis™ technology combines internal aerodynamic design with a bespoke contoured nozzle to deliver a concentrated temperature and airflow distribution – giving you more precise control for a smooth, shiny salon blow-dry at home.

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YOU’VE GOT THE POWER Lighter, faster and stronger, the new ghd Helios professional hairdryer raises the bar in powerful styling.

F “The ghd Helios hairdryer gives you the perfect flow of air when drying to create a natural fullness, stunning shine and smoothness like no other. It’s my new kit bag essential as it’s so fast and really minimises drying time, therefore limiting damage to your hair. Remember to use the cold shot button when drying; this blast of cold air helps to lock your finished style in place.”

Zoe Irwin, ghd UK ambassador

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resh from ghd’s state-of-the-art Research and Development Lab in Cambridge is the brand new ghd Helios professional hairdryer. The brand’s lightest and fastest dryer yet claims to be the ultimate in styling control.

The lightweight, longer-life brushless motor is designed for speed, creating powerful yet highly concentrated airflow travelling at 120kmh to drastically speed up styling in the salon.

Aeroprecis™ technology combines internal aerodynamic design with a bespoke contoured nozzle. This delivers a concentrated temperature and airflow distribution, giving you more precise control for amazing styling results.

Whether your clients want sleek and smooth results or show-stopping volume, ghd Helios puts the power in your hands.

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SPOTLIGHT

●

Unique Aeroprecis™ technology enables intuitive styling with more precise control for smooth, shiny salon results.

●

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Bespoke contoured nozzle for a highly concentrated, controlled airflow.

Lightweight 2200 Watt brushless motor for ultra fast drying.

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Low sound levels for a more refined salon experience.

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Advanced ionic technology reduces frizz and fly-aways for a a smooth and shiny finish.

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Available in four stunning colourways; black, white, deep red and navy blue.

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Ergonomic weight distribution and balance for easy hadling.

For further information online visit www.rdr./linkHM057

Cool shot button to fix looks into place.

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WHEN MICHAEL MET

CLAIRE SHREAD, owner of Umberto Giannini

Over the next few months celebrity hairdresser Michael Douglas will be interviewing some of the industry’s most influential people, often the power behind the most high-profile brands. Michael chose Claire Shread, owner of salon and product brand Umberto Giannini, as his first interviewee. You can listen to the full podcast over at www.professionalhairdresser.co.uk, but here are some highlights from when Michael met Claire.

So, tell me a little of your story. You started out as an artist, didn’t you?

Claire: Yes, I did. After leaving art college I worked for many years as a mural painter. I created large-scale murals, working mostly in the nightclub industry.

I’d say I was always thinking in a self-employed way. My dad was a builder and I grew up in a house where my dad ran his own business. I always thought I would work for myself. I didn’t ever plan too far ahead in terms of my career, I think it’s important not to have too rigid a plan, especially when you are young.

How have you ended up in hair?

Claire: I met Umberto in the early 90’s when he was about to open a salon in the centre of Birmingham. I had my company, which had diversified, and he contacted me to design the new salon. My mum was a client of his and had shown him pictures of some of my work.

He loved the big, dramatic mural idea for his salon, which was very different to anything anyone else was doing with their salons at the time. We met and became partners.

“WHAT UMBERTO DID DIFFERENTLY WAS LAUNCH A RANGE OF PRODUCTS FROM A BEAUTY ASPECT. IT WAS ALL ABOUT REAL WOMEN, FROM THE VERY FIRST ADVERT IN 1998 WHICH USED REAL WOMEN RATHER THAN MODELS.”

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What was Umberto like when you met him?

Claire: Before I met Umberto, I thought I was the most motivated person I knew, but his energy levels were incredible. He was really creative and loved people. So, a massive part of hairdressing for him was that interaction. He was a big character, lots of fun, and much loved by his clients and the wider industry.

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Had you ever considered the hair world as a career?

Claire: No. As someone with naturally curly hair, the last person I wanted to see was my hairdresser! They would always be like ‘sorry you’ve got curls’. I could only really do my hair myself. Even Umberto said “Thank goodness, a girlfriend who won’t want me to do her hair 24/7’.

Did you immerse yourself in his business?

Claire: Not at all, my own business was doing really well. I just supported Umberto in a few areas, especially when he wanted to launch his own products. I got involved at that point. He contacted Robin Derrick, who was British Vogue’s Artistic Director and asked him to design the bottle. Robin, thankfully, said yes and we had a fantastic time designing the range.

“IT’S ALL ABOUT PEOPLE. ALWAYS EMPLOY PEOPLE THAT ARE BETTER THAN YOU AT EVERYTHING! YOUR MANAGEMENT TEAM IS CRUCIAL.”

How did the range come about?

Claire: It really was off the back of the professional haircare market growing. What Umberto did differently was launch a range of products from a beauty aspect. It was all about real women, from the very first advert in 1998 which used real women rather than models. Hair was completely undone and totally different to the hairdressing of the time. It was more about making you look your best, and that is very much still at the heart of the brand.

Was it difficult to get it off the ground?

Claire: Yes, it was extremely difficult.

Originally the brand was launched in partnership with a manufacturer. After Umberto’s tragic early death there was an issue with having a range featuring the name of someone who was no longer there.

At what point did Umberto become ill?

Claire: I was pregnant with our second child when Umberto became ill. He was ill for about 18 months and died at the age of 33.

He’d been travelling as Artistic Director for Schwarzkopf and came back from a trip not feeling well and it escalated from there.

Originally, I stepped in to look after the business while Umberto was getting treatment. Then when everything went horribly and tragically the wrong way, I was determined his name was going to live on. I really threw myself into making sure the brand had a future.

Giannini. Curls are becoming so popular and so many women are setting their curls free.

The biggest buzz you get when you make products is when you get correspondence from people saying you have changed their lives.

It’s an amazing legacy to keep alive, as I’m sure a lot of people did wonder how the brand would survive without the figurehead?

Claire: I think creativity saved it. It’s a How is the salon business performing? beautiful name. You know it has finesse and Claire: It’s been challenging for all high street is cosmopolitan - I just built on that. I brands. We’re lucky that we have a great focused on curls, because that was one area team. We currently have five salons, but we of hairdressing I understood. In my are looking to expand. We have a salon experience, what a woman does at home opening soon in Milton Keynes. with her hair is totally different to what is done in the salon. You need completely Any advice you can offer in relation to different products. That allowed new running a successful business? products to be developed which really set the Claire: It’s all about people. Always employ course for the legacy. There are now around people that are better than you at 70 products in the range covering pretty everything! Your management much every hair type. team is crucial. There is a real We’re fully vegan as a brand. recruitment issue at the moment, I’m a lifelong vegetarian and but I think the positive is that mostly vegan. It was important for more salons will focus on training me to make it totally vegan which and bringing through their own was very difficult. Now it’s a real CHECK OUT people. Certainly, we are. We will trend.

THE FULL always have a supply of talented people.

It must have been difficult for INTERVIEW Often people will fly the nest you to raise two kids while ON and then come back and they are handling the business?

PODCAST often the best. They can bring Claire: Being a mum is by far the APPS OR ON great ideas back. best job in the world. The OUR privilege of running your own WEBSITE. How do you think Umberto business is that you can juggle. It’s would feel about what you have incredibly stressful but I wouldn’t done with the business? have it any other way.

Claire: I think he would be torn between If you make decisions that are true to ‘wow fantastic’ and ‘why did you do all that?’, you, they are only ever positive even if they but ultimately, I’m very proud that his legacy are difficult. is so great and that it still communicates with women in an original and authentic way that So, what does the future hold? honours his name and his talent. ■ Claire: It’s a really exciting time for Umberto

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BUSINESS

FINALISING HER SERIES, TRISHA BULLER MIT SRSH SENIOR CONSULTANT TRICHOLOGIST AND OWNER OF THE AWARD-WINNING CIENTE SALON IN BERKHAMSTED, GOES BACK TO BASICS AND LOOK AT WAYS TO HELP YOUR SALON WIN ON THE HIGH STREET. HERE TRISHA ANSWERS SOME OF THE QUESTIONS YOU HAVE PUT TO HER RECENTLY.

Let’s get to the root of the problem During the busy Christmas period one of my clients used dry shampoo on a daily basis and it seems to have given her dandruff, is this possible?

Dry shampoo has a great role to play in our everyday busy lives, especially the party season, giving instant body and volume to fine, lank hair or greasy scalp. However, it can cause a build-up of dead skin cells due to not cleansing and therefore not removing dead skin cells. Eventually the skin cells can become mixed with the scalp’s natural sebum that can cause an irritation on the scalp. This can be exacerbated by scratching, causing an infection, which can mimic dandruff.

Once you start to cleanse your scalp with the appropriate shampoo type for your scalp this will clear. Try using a scalp tonic to calm and sooth the scalp, such as Goldwell’s scalp range ‘Kerasilk Revitalize’ which has an exfoliator in the range and a great in-salon scalp treatment to recommend. Always remember to follow up with the home care regime, which includes a scalp serum.

Having used this in-salon treatment we have achieved fabulous results on sensitive and irritated scalps, creating raving fans...

I have a client whose scalp has become very itchy, she has tried changing shampoos but nothing seems to be working. Can you recommend anything?

Our environment can have a detrimental effect on our hair, skin and nails, so always be mindful, especially during consultation with your clients, to take our environment and the environment your clients may have been exposed to into consideration .

Weather changes can create the skin to become more sensitive therefore leading to irritation, so moisturise the skin and think about changing your hair care regime recommendations.

Last year in particular with clients, we found a rise in people taking winter breaks prior to the Christmas surge.

Changing weather climates and changes in altitude during flights can lead to the scalp becoming dry, resulting in itchy scalps. Reduced cleansing or shampooing your hair can also be an offending factor .

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Nutritional intake can exacerbate an itchy scalp. Diet changes can have an enormous effect. During the festive season we all eat and drink far more, such as consuming increased spicy foods, cheeses and drinking more fizzy drinks such as Prosecco, and Champagne!

Try to drink more water especially when consuming alcohol and avoiding cows’ milk and cheese if you’re experiencing an excessively itchy scalp will also assist in resolving the problem.

A winter problem – what is the best solution to avoid fly away static hair when removing hats?

Hats create a friction due to the rubbing, heat and dryness of the hair and hat fibre. Ensure you have used the appropriate shampoo for your hair and scalp, always apply a conditioner and an anti-humectant styling product. The styling product will coat the cuticle and avoid excess rubbing between the two fibres, reducing the static which is a chemical reaction of an unbalanced charge within the hair fibres. Use a large tooth comb, not a brush as the nylon can exacerbate friction.

Should sun screen protectors be used on the hair when skiing?

When skiing you’re in a high altitude and the effects of the sun can be as damaging as the summer sun as the air is very thin and there is less oxygen so using sun protection on your skin and hair is just as important as the summer sun. Colour fade is another issue from skiing, especially when no head/hair protection is worn. Be mindful of clients future plans so you can advise them accordingly. Prevention is better than cure. Leave-in conditioners and serums will also stop hair friction from helmets and ski hats.

I struggle to sell my clients retail products as they purchase from the internet at cheaper rates, any advice?

This is so common, we are all up against internet shopping prices and I am not an expert in this field, however from my experience as salon owner, stylist, trichologist and nutritional practitioner, I never try to ‘SELL’. We’re not sales

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people, we are specialists in our field.

Just like consultants are specialists in certain fields, they recommend and prescribe, and this is what professional hairdressers and stylists should be daily.

During consultation I ask as many open ended questions as possible, for example, “what is it about your hair you struggle with?”, “what is your ideal styling time?”, “how long do you have to style your hair?”, “what type of styling tools do you use?” and many more….

Once I feel they’ve relaxed and given me enough information, I then ask permission to work on a hair plan with them – a bespoke journey for them and their lifestyle.

Explaining what I’m using, how to use it, and why I’m using this brand over and above anything else.

I invite them to smell the product and feel the product.

This works brilliantly when styling, because if you place some of the product into the palm of their hands as you’re explaining, then put a hot dryer on their hands where they’ve put the product, instantly they feel there is no build up or stickiness left. Their hands feel soft, it works every time.

Leave the product in front of your client, let them pick it up and ask questions. By the time it comes to paying the bill, they’ve already decided they want the products, they’re excited to take them home and use them because you’ve explained everything to them and given them hot tips to take away.

Never ‘over tell’ just push the important bullet points of the ‘BENEFITS! Sell the sizzle not the sausage!

As stylists and technicians we have our clients undivided attention for at least one hour, talk about them and what they like, NOT about yourself!

Your clients want to leave your salon feeling special, totally spoilt and as if they were the only person in the salon during the service.

What causes a colour not to take on the roots when the client has been colouring her hair for years?

Sometimes this happens for no apparent reason. The client will always tell you there are no changes, however if you can ask some questions in a different manner, and with empathy, this can help to identify what the underlying factor could be. Never talk through the mirror, sit with your client and make eye contact, and speak in a low voice.

Here are some examples of questions; ●

Have you been unwell in the past three to nine months?

(This could be a common cold, flu, tooth issues.)

●

Have you changed or increased any medication in the past three to nine months?

(Including pain killers.)

●

Have you changed your diet or lifestyle?

(Important for hair condition.)

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When was your hair last shampooed?

(Was there a build-up coating the roots?)

●

What products have you been applying to your hair?

(Possibly a silicone coating the hair cuticle.)

●

Are there styling or serum products on the hair?

●

Have you applied any scalp lotions or serums to scalp?

(Causing a barrier )

Certain medications and drugs can cause a barrier on the hair. We are what we eat – whatever we consume orally will at some point have an effect on the hair structure, so it is important to have a better knowledge and understanding of your client’s lifestyle so you can offer the best possible service and results. Once this has been explained to your clients, they do tend to be honest as they want the best results on their hair too.

Our hair is a barometer of our inner health, so to understand more from our clients will assist us, the professional hairdresser, to deliver an experience that is second to none.

■ Trisha Buller will be appearing on the Business/Sustainability Stage at PRO HAIR LIVE on Sunday 23rd February where, alongside Business Expert David Drew, they will discussing how to push services and treatments as an important revenue stream for salons.

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VISIONARY HAIRDRESSER AND SALON OWNER, ROBERT MASCIAVE SAYS THAT KNOWING YOURSELF IS THE FIRST STEP TOWARDS SUCCESS

Who am I? ‘Who am I?’ is probably the most important question anyone looking for success needs to ask themselves. It is only by understanding ourselves, our strengths and weaknesses and the way we process information and experiences that we can grow and develop as people. Once we understand our own minds and how they work, we can then develop a better understanding of how others can excel in their work and lives.

As a business owner and educator, I use the concept of whole brain thinking to help me understand myself, to grow as a person and as a business owner, and develop a better understanding of those around me – my clients and my team.

Whole brain thinking provides a basis for improved understanding and insight. It acknowledges that different tasks require different mental processes, and different people prefer different kinds of thinking.

Four main quadrants The basis of whole brain thinking is that our brains are split into four main quadrants and that most people have one or maybe two dominant quadrants that are their default.

On the left of the brain we have the analytical and the procedural quadrants. People who are led by the analytical quadrant like to analyse and understand everything from the outset, those led by the procedural quadrant want discipline and focus in everything they do.

On the right-hand side of the brain we have the innovative/imaginative quadrant and the relational quadrant.

Those led by the innovative quadrant have a great sense of vision, they are excellent ideas people who want to move forwards; relational people are good at communicating with others, they are led by emotion and how they feel.

Most people will navigate between more than one quadrant, but they will have a default quadrant that they return to. My default quadrant is the innovative/imaginative quadrant, although I have been told that I navigate comfortably between all four, which is quite common among business owners and CEOs. When people are able to do things using the default quadrant of their brain, the task will seem much easier and more enjoyable. When they are forced to use one of the other quadrants it will seem like much more of an effort. By using whole brain thinking to understand yourself better and make yourself more aware of your strengths and weaknesses you will begin to learn more effectively and take more from every experience. You will find it much easier to motivate yourself and also to communicate with and motivate others, including your team and your clients.

Using whole brain thinking, as well as developing

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yourself more effectively, you will begin to recognise the quadrant that other people use as their default, and be able to communicate more effectively with them and build more positive relationships. For example, if you have a client who is very procedural, make sure that during the consultation you give them a detailed account of how you are going to create the cut or style.

However, if you know your client is led by the innovative/imaginative quadrant, they won’t want all this detail, it will bore them. They will just want to know what the finished cut will look like.

You can ask key questions during the initial consultation which will reveal a client’s default quadrant. For example, if you ask a client “How do you feel about your hair?” and they respond, “It makes me feel old”, they are most likely led by the relational quadrant; if their response is, “It takes me too long to do in the morning when I’m rushing to get to work,” then they are a procedural person.

As a hairdresser, it’s important that you don’t try and drag a client into your quadrant. By this I mean, you need to learn to communicate with people in a way that will appeal to their default or dominant quadrant, rather than using language that appeals to you.

A great way The whole brain thinking model is also a great way to create an efficient team and communicate with individuals in a way that will motivate them to work more effectively for your business, capitalising on their strengths. Many successful businesses in a vast array of sectors use whole brain thinking as a model for building an effective team.

In an ideal world, a salon would have a team that covered all four quadrants, but in reality, it is more about education and helping people work more effectively by knowing how their minds work and how those of their team mates’ work.

I have spoken to my team about whole brain thinking and we have established the quadrants that are dominant for each team member. This makes it easier for the team members to communicate together and, perhaps, be more understanding if a particular team member doesn’t excel in certain situations. With this understanding, individuals will develop more quickly and effectively and enjoy the process of learning far more.

Using whole brain thinking as a tool has helped me develop as a person, as a businessman and as an educator.

It has made me a better communicator and the empathy that comes with an understanding of whole brain thinking has helped me develop and nurture my team and create a loyal client base.

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BUSINESS

AS A FORMER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR OF A LONDON ADVERTISING AGENCY, MICHAEL SMITH HAS APPLIED THE PRINCIPLES OF GOOD BUSINESS TO HIS THRIVING SALON, TRISTAN EVES, WITH GREAT SUCCESS. THIS ISSUE HE SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON CUSTOMER RETENTION, AND THE STEPS YOU CAN TAKE TO ENSURE IT’S AT THE HEART OF YOUR SALON STRATEGY

Lessons Learnt When I worked at a very successful, but medium-sized advertising agency, customer retention was everything.

With no more than a dozen important clients you simply couldn’t afford to lose any of those accounts. With salons it’s slightly different, and you have a potentially vast pool of customers.

However, I don’t really see it any differently in that every single one of those customers is AS important as your handful of high-value advertising clients.

You can see how some salons could be a bit blasé about putting in the effort to ensure every person through the door remains a paying customer, but it really is important to invest in customer service and marketing to hang onto them for life. Our goal is to have customers who just wouldn’t dream of going anywhere else to get their hair done. In a world where you’re only as good as your last haircut, there has to be plenty else besides to keep them coming back for more.

And more to the point – it makes incredibly good business sense. When you think of the effort and cost that goes into attracting new clientele it is far more sensible to invest in the ones you already have. If 90% of your audience keep returning, your marketing budget doesn’t have to be constantly targeted at an elusive new customer base.

Exceptional customer service is what makes your salon stand out above the rest. It needs to infiltrate from every level – starting with the junior at the backwash and importantly with a friendly, efficient face at the front desk. A relationship of trust is crucial. We strive to always get things right, but if we don’t, we want the opportunity to sort it out. That requires our customer to feel comfortable enough to raise any issues, whether that’s directly with their stylist, or with someone else in the team.

Aim to impress We operate a policy where our clients aren’t necessarily assigned just to one stylist. They don’t ‘belong’ to a stylist, and it really doesn’t matter if they switch, all customers are customers of the salon, not just one person. That way we can keep our overall standards impeccably high and everyone in the team aims to impress every single time.

We encourage everyone to be on first name terms with our customers at every touchpoint within the salon. It’s a small, friendly gesture that shows our client is an individual, a valued one, and not just another head of hair in the chair.

Of course, our customers may choose the same stylist

every time – in most cases they do – but it gives customers the freedom of choice. The main reason clients won’t come back is if they’ve had an unsatisfactory service but feel too awkward to express it. Accepting this and encouraging an open dialogue is a must. Next, we take a simple, but nonetheless proactive approach to making sure they return, and that’s booking their next slot before they even leave. Most of you will already do this, but it’s an easy win that shouldn’t be neglected.

I also wholeheartedly believe that to demand loyalty, you need to reward it. That’s why we have an automated rewards point system operated via Phorest. We wait until a client has been coming to us for a while and then we invite them to accrue points depending on how much they spend at each appointment. These points can be exchanged for small bonuses. It’s a great opportunity to offer them a treatment they may not otherwise have tried but might love and buy again in the future.

Service we believe in For instance, if we have a service we truly believe in – such as L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond, which we know will leave coloured hair stronger and shinier - we’ll offer it for free, which will convince most to choose and pay for this valuable add-on next time. While we happily endorse rewards, as a salon we do not discount. Fortunately it’s not a marketing tactic we’ve had to employ, and we’re confident enough in the quality of our brand that we don’t want to risk devaluing it.

Paying it forward is something else I would advise. If you look after your customers, it almost always pays off.

For instance, one of Tristan’s clients was experiencing a tough time and was worried he couldn’t afford expensive haircuts for a while. We made sure he was looked after, and these days he flies in from around the world in his role as a movie director to see Tristan. That’s the kind of loyalty you can’t fake.

It’s important to remember that as much as we all strive to make the salon a friendly, welcoming place that people want to come back to time and time again, for some, having their hair done is a necessary evil. For those, we keep our customer service standards high without fail, and we aim to keep the salon and its environment perfect. If we can make the process more of a treat, and somewhere they enjoy being, that is surely the key to keeping them coming back for more.

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ALAN SIMPSON IS OWNER OF CONTEMPORARY SALONS, AN AWARD-WINNING SALON GROUP BASED IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND. ALAN HAS BUILT HIS COMPANY USING A FRANCHISING MODEL. OVER THE NEXT FEW ISSUES HE WILL BE LOOKING AT MAINTAINING STANDARDS AS A BUSINESS GROWS FROM ONE TO SEVERAL OUTLETS. HERE HE TALKS ABOUT THE ADVANTAGES OF FRANCHISING OVER COMPANY-OWNED SALONS.

A Model for Success I’ve been involved over the last 20 years with partnerships and franchising. When Contemporary Salons started to expand, we opened six company-owned salons, but we found this a difficult business model to manage. As a manager, it takes a tremendous amount of time and energy and sheer determination to succeed. Our salon managers were also working on the salon floor looking after clients and managing the team, which is the model many hairdressing salons use.

Our salons were successful, but I knew they could have been more so if we used a more efficient business model.

Initially, we moved to a system where the salon mangers bought into the business, either a 25% or 50% share, and then retained a split on net profit based on their buy-in arrangement, plus a stylist’s salary. This proved an effective model to use to grow the business and over time the managers gained more experience with the systems and procedures and the brand ethos.

Our journey into franchising started in 1999 when we spent two years getting everything set up and working very closely with the Franchise Development Company and the Franchise Company in Darlington. There was a lot to do in order to convert to a franchise business.

Firstly, we did a viability study of the seven salons that we had at the time. We wanted to know, if all were franchised, what income would there be. We also needed to decide what services, marketing and branding, and training we would offer to our franchisees and at what costs, including head office premises and management team.

We found we needed 10 salons before we could offer all that was needed as a franchisor. We realised we would not get enough income from the existing base unless they were all high turnover salons.

Protect Yourself I would also say to anyone considering taking the franchise route, make sure you have your brand names and logos protected by registering them as trademarks so you have ownership of both.

You will also need a very comprehensive operations manual for the salons and head office. This should include everything on how you operate your salon, and all your policies and procedures, plus your management and marketing systems. Also include details of your staff training and recruitment procedures.

Creating a franchise agreement which sets out the terms of the franchise for both the franchisee and the franchisor is also essential. You’ll need to employ the

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services of a specialist franchise lawyer, who understands how to protect your franchise model as there may be times when you will need to rely on your franchise agreement.

Investment will pay off For us, the costs of setting up the franchise was around £35,000, so it’s an expensive endeavour, but something this important needs to be well thought out and researched so that you can be confident your franchise model will be successful.

If you make the necessary investment, it will pay off. A lot of salons don’t survive more than five years, but within franchising the success rates are far higher as the franchisor and franchise have a vested interest in the salon succeeding, with the business acumen and systems from the franchise as back-up.

Perhaps most importantly, you need to recruit franchisees that totally believe in the brand. A franchise is a partnership and a franchisee must want the same success and be willing to take on and maintain the ethos of the brand. It can be very damaging to a brand if a franchisee wants to do things differently, straying from your brand ethos. Imagine McDonalds restaurants serving a different version of the Big-Mac in every location! You need to ensure both the franchisor and franchisee totally respect the brand and the way the business operates.

A support network Being a franchisor differs from being a business partner in that the franchisee does own their salon. As a franchisor it is your job to use your knowledge, experience and expertise alongside the branding, systems, training, efficiency and savings your group can offer, to help make the franchise salon successful. Franchisees do, however, have to understand that opening a salon is a huge rollercoaster ride, and many can find it very difficult with all that needs to done to get the salon off the ground. But within the franchise model, it’s in everyone interests the business is a huge success.

Financially it’s very important that franchisees make money. At Contemporary Salons we offer a fair package to our salons and our fees are very low against other franchise companies. We also introduce a cap on fees over a certain turnover level.

It’s a model that has certainly worked for us and one we hope will lead to further growth and success for Contemporary Salons.

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BUSINESS

MULTI AWARD-WINNING HAIRDRESSER, ROBERT EATON, WELLA’S UK & IRELAND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR, TALKS ABOUT THE IMPORTANCE OF CARRYING OUT AN IN-DEPTH COLOUR CONSULTATION WITH EVERY CLIENT AND HOW THIS CAN HAVE A MAJOR IMPACT ON THE SUCCESS OF YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS.

Colour Conscious The word consultation is used a lot in our industry and I think it’s easy to have a quick discussion about what colour your client will be having, but this is very different to an in-depth consultation that truly gives you an insight into what your client really wants and what will ultimately be their ideal colour.

For businesses to survive in the current climate, service needs to be completely personalised, and this starts with a bespoke consultation for every single client, both cut and colour, to determine their needs.

Because it’s such a personalised service, we don’t have a set time frame for consultations, in fact if a client needs several consultations before anything is changed with their hair, we are happy to accommodate that.

I think the golden rule is to offer every client a thorough consultation, regardless of the scale of the work they are having done. The words ‘usual colour’ and ‘same again’ are the words that should never be used – the moment you use these words, you have taken the bespoke personalisation element away and turned extraordinary into ordinary.

It may well be the case that your client wants the exact same colour as last time, but without a detailed consultation you will not know this. Look at it this way, when you go into a restaurant, even if you are a regular customer and always have the same dish, if the waiter fails to tell you the specials and doesn’t talk to you about the menu, you’re not going to feel very valued. Whereas if you’re told that there’s a variant of your favourite dish that the waiter thinks you will love, then you’re going to feel like they understand your tastes, they care about your meal and they want you to be a satisfied customer.

Hairdressing is no different. Making clients feel comfortable and like they’re getting great value all starts with the consultation.

I am very passionate about colour consultations and achieving the perfect colour, so I work with my

clients creating mood boards with them on the look they want to achieve. I also work with wigs and hair pieces so the client can see how different shades, colours and tones work with their skin tone and eye colour. Wigs are also a great way to show them how different techniques and haircuts can change how colour appears.

This is very much in line with Wella’s new interactive consultation tool. It uses mood boards to talk to your client about their lifestyle, personality, likes and dislikes, and also helps you identify your client’s skin tone and eye colour, which tells you if they are cool are warm tones.

Understanding this is absolute key to making the right colour choice.

A colour consultation is essential before any appointment. There are so many aspects to make the client aware of and you want to ensure that you and the client are in-sync at all points of the colour journey. There is nothing worse than a client being surprised or unhappy midway through a transformation as a result of not having a thorough consultation. It is also key to point out that the first consultation is a great starting point but it is also essential to keep consulting with your client throughout the service, keeping them informed of what you’re doing and why you are do it at all steps of the way.

Making the consultation visual is a major element of getting it right. There are many shades of cool blonde, and it is impossible to describe a colour without using a visual tool to demonstrate it.

Swatches, fabrics and various textures all help to bring a vision to life.

An in-depth consultation can really help salons personalise their client’s experience. It is a great way to help tailor the salon services to fit their client’s bespoke needs and therefore give a much fuller experience. I personally believe this is one of the keys to running a successful salon business and is where the extraordinary service begins.

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S U S T A i N A B L E

GREEN QUEEN

KARINE Our resident environmental campaigner KARINE JACKSON has been championing her mission to go single use plastic-free and will be bringing you her expertise in person on PRO HAIR LIVE’s Business/Sustainability Stage.

Welcome to February’s column, and I really hope I’ll see you at Pro Hair Live this month where I’m delighted to be launching my services as a Sustainability Consultant! I’m finding that so many people want to incorporate sustainability into their life and business but aren’t that sure where to start, so I’ve put together a training plan to deliver in salons which will get you on the right track. I’m not an eco-fanatic, I’m not even vegan, but I can see where we can incorporate the stark warnings about the future of the planet and offer a look at how small changes can lead to big ones. We should be tweaking the way we live for the benefit of our planet and our businesses. So much is about balance and just smart changes to our routine.

I’ll come into the salon and look at areas where we can make small changes, present to your team to get them to engage with why you’re becoming more sustainable, do an assessment, help you to set targets and engage with your local area as well as marketing your new credentials, giving you template letters to lobby suppliers and ongoing coaching afterwards. We assess both the business and your own activities, it’s a personal holistic approach.

Pro Hair Live I’ll be on the Business/Sustainability Stage with Organic Colour Systems on Sunday 23rd Feb at 1-2pm and Monday 24th Feb 3-4pm where I’ll be presenting my top tips for sustainability and answering questions about any issues people are having in their own salons. I’ll also be launching my new collection, Twisted Linear, recreating a look but incorporating plastic waste to draw attention to the sort of unnecessary packaging that finds its way into salons. You can also find me on the Pro Hair Live Stage at 2.10-2.40pm on Monday 24th Feb with a show for Curlformers ® by HairFlair where I’ll be demonstrating an organic perm which has become a huge seller in my salon where we do around four a day!

Sustainable checklist – what to ask your suppliers There are SO many things you can think about to ask your manufacturer, for example:

Do their bottles contain PCR (Post-consumer recycled) plastic?

Companies like the Body Shop have been using 100% PCR in their bottles since 2008 so it’s perfectly possible. Plastic packaging accounts for 44% of plastic used in the UK, but 67% of plastic waste, and over 2 million tonnes of plastic packaging is used each year.

The vast majority of this is made from new, rather than recycled plastic.

Are cartons being produced using recycled card?

Are they recyclable?

What about the way products are delivered – are the boxes recycled/recyclable with paper tape used instead of sticky tape which is generally made of a type of plastic called polypropylene, and not typically recycled in the UK? Also did you know if you send a box/card/paper to be recycled and it has sticky tape on it, it can’t be pulped so goes to landfill – worth remembering at Christmas when Britons use over six million rolls of tape during the festive period!

At Organic Colour Systems, paper tape is being used instead of cellotape in the dispatch department, and because the adhesive is also a natural gum, which means the complete tape is recyclable, 90 miles of tape a year are saved from going to landfill!

This is exactly what I mean by small changes – look how significant they are when added together! And this is also where you find a crossover between work and your personal habits – knowledge gives you the power to implement sustainable changes across the board.

What is the company’s own green policy – do they car share, use public transport, use paper bags instead of plastic, have movement monitor lighting in their head office or factories – once you start to ask these questions you’ll see that it prompts others to think about an answer. It could be something that they can change easily, but they just hadn’t thought of it before.

This is how our waste culture will change.

My overall message for 2020 is use less, waste less.

Don’t buy fast fashion, and ask yourself before every purchase – do you need this? And ultimately you’ll have more money in your pocket… Look forward to seeing you at Pro Hair Live, and please stay in touch on social, I always love to hear from you! @karinemjackson

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imagine. create. inspire.

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// Imagine: Let your imagination run wild. Envision your collection.

What will you show the world? How will the colors, shapes and textures look? Once you have your vision, assemble your mood board to bring it to life. Review. Refine. Reimagine. // Create: Find your muse. Assemble your team. It’s time for you to bring your vision to life. Be clear. Be focused. Push yourself and make it big. Make it great. Make it stand out. // Inspire: Now it’s time for you to put your creation out there. Enter the Global Creative Awards and share your vision with the world.

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imagine. create. inspire.

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Live Competition, Vienna 2019

Technical categories.

The ultimate technical competition.

Creativity starts with a photo shoot (one model shot required) and ends with a live competition.

For years, the Color Zoom Challenge has inspired thousands of stylists to compete – and now it continues in an exciting new format as the Global Creative Awards.

Compete first at national level in your country.

Gold winners then move on to the international live competition.

// new talent colorist of the year Show the world that age is not a prerequisite for creative excellence. Show your talent and technical ability in this category designed for stylists with less than five years experience. // creative colorist of the year The ultimate color competition. Create your vision with a stunning photograph and then recreate it in the international live competition. Open to all stylists with the passion and drive to compete in the world of color. new // creative haircutter of the year Show the world your work is a cut above the rest with this precision cutting competition. Open to all passionate haircutters. Show us your image and then compete live at the international level.

globalcreativeawards.com

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Intrepid Collection, Gala Show, Vienna 2019

Editorial categories.

These are the categories you’ve been waiting for!

Four new exciting photo-only catergories that celebrate the ultimate in editorial creativity (three model shots required).

The more creative, the better!

new // men‘s hairstylist of the year Show your mastery and expertise in men’s styling, barbering and grooming by creating a collection of cutting-edge men’s looks. new // avant garde stylist of the year Pure unbridled creativity. Push the boundaries of conventional hairstyling and dare to inspire with your collection of visionary work. new // editorial colorist of the year Express your vision in color. Create an editorial color collection that showcases color creativity, precision and vision. new // salon team of the year Channel the creativity of your entire salon team. Create a collection that represents your shared vision.

#iamgoldwell

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Color and style.

Create your vision .....

Color entries must be created with Goldwell products only, e.g. Topchic, Colorance, Nectaya, @Pure Pigments and/or Elumen/Elumen Play. In all categories, hair can be lightened and bleached with Goldwell products, e.g. Topchic HiBlondes Control, SilkLift and Oxycur Platin.

Styling entries must be created with Goldwell products only, e.g. StyleSign and Kerasilk products.

The haircut, hairstyle and color must be in focus and easy to identify in the photo.

Extensions, hairpieces or wigs are not allowed, with the exception of the avant garde category.

globalcreativeawards.com

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Courtney Cairns, Global Bronze Winner, New Talent category

Enter the Global Creative Awards.

Take the chance to show the world what a true creative does: Imagine, Create and Inspire.

step by step to international gold // choose your category // observe the rules // be aware of the judging criteria // imagine and create // submit your entry documents // keep the timeline in mind // have fun your pathway to success // Choose a model create your vision – do a photo shoot. // E ntries may be submitted only between 1st May and 31st May 2020 // All entries must be submitted via www.globalcreativeawards.com // Announcement of the national winners: July 2020 // L ive competition at the Kao Salon Global Experience in Amsterdam: 10th—12th October 2020

entry deadline 31st May

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Go for gold.

As a global gold winner of your category, you deserve the recognition and reward for all of your creative efforts.

In the technical categories, the gold winners will receive: // International Gold Trophy // Worldwide press and editorial coverage // Participation in a future Goldwell photo shoot In the editorial categories, the gold winners will recieve: // International Gold Trophy // Worldwide press and editorial coverage // Cash prize of â‚Ź2,500

For more information, visit www.globalcreativeawards.com or speak to your Goldwell sales or education consultant.

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