Fanola Color - Technical Guide

WHAT IS HAIR

Hair is the pili that grow on the scalp, the skin of the human skull. Hair is made up of solid proteins, such as keratin, in a percentage between 65 and 95%, and the rest of water, lipids, pigments and trace elements. Another solid protein is melanin which gives hair its colour.

Other important substances in the life of hair are iron, which has a primary role in the synthesis of blood haemoglobin for tissue oxygenation; followed by zinc, magnesium and finally copper, which take part in the process of melanin formation.

Hair is subject to a growth cycle lasting 2-6 years (but cycles of over 10 years are documented). At the end of each cycle, the hair falls and is replaced. The hair cycle consists of the sequence of three phases:

1.ANAGEN

2.CATAGEN

3.TELOGEN

The length of hair is also very variable, rarely reaching one metre and, together with the nails and beard, it is the only part of the body that grows continuously throughout a person’s life.

HAIR COMPOSITION

Longitudinal hair section

A hair has three parts:

1) The shaft: it is the outer part, it has a tubular shape that is more or less protruding from the skin surface. It is made up of keratin and it is flexible and resistant. The end part is called apex and it is thinner.

2) The root: it is the continuation of the stem within the skin and is between the follicular ostium and the lower attachment of the arrector pili muscle. The root is enveloped by the follicle with the exception of its upper part, where a thin space remains between the hair and the epidermis.

3) The bulb: it is the initial part, located in the deepest part of the follicle. At the base of the bulb is an area called hair matrix, which is where the hair forms and grows. It is within the hair follicle, this originates the structure from which the hair shaft itself germinates. Some cells inside it (KERATINOCYTES) induce the keratinisation process thus generating the shaft, others (MELANOCYTES) produce melanins.

The hair cross-section

A horizontal hair section shows three fundamental zones:

1) The cuticle: this is the outer layer of the hair and consists of cells (SCALES), which have the task of protecting the inside of the hair from any chemical, physical and mechanical damage.

2) The cortex: this is the intermediate hair layer and the most plentiful as well. It contains melanins and it is the layer where most chemical treatments act. It leads to the main physical properties of hair, such as resistance and elasticity.

3) The medulla: the central part of hair. In man it is very scarce and sometimes non existent. Its function is not well known and it is not normally treated by our modification products.

MELANINS

Hair colour

It lies in the cortical part where melanins are found, which determine hair colour as well as thickness. There are three types of melanins:

EUMELANINS

range from black to blue

PHEOMELANINS range from yellow-orange to very light yellow

TRICHOSIDERINS contain iron and are red in colour

The three types of melanin therefore replicate the three primary colours, respectively blue, yellow and red. The combination of these three melanins determines the hair colour perceived by our eyes.

MELANIN CONCENTRATION

BLACK BROWN

DARK CHESTNUT CHESTNUT

LIGHT CHESTNUT

DARK BLONDE BLONDE

LIGHT BLONDE

VERY LIGHT BLONDE BLONDE PLATINUM

The variable concentration of the 3 types of melanins creates every single natural hair colour: a higher concentration of eumelanins creates darker colours, while a lower concentration creates lighter colours. Pheomelanins are mostly found in light colours, while trichosiderins give rise to warmer colours.

COLOUR

Natural Cosmetic

> natural colour is a concentration of melanin in the cortex.

> cosmetic colour is a concentration of cosmetic pigments deposited in the cortex.

Target colour: applied colour + natural colour

When applying a colour it is always necessary to consider the fact that if the target colour is applied on a completely white background, the result will exactly match the nuance shown in the colour chart.

If, on the other hand, the target colour is applied on a natural coloured background, the result will be the sum of the pigments added to the melanins¸ so one must always consider the melanin contribution and residue for the application of the correct nuance capable of neutralising any unwanted reflects.

MELANIN RESIDUE

The importance of melanins in the bleaching process.

BLACK

VIOLET RED BROWN

DARK CHESTNUT

DARK RED

RED CHESTNUT

LIGHT CHESTNUT

DARK BLONDE

BLONDE

LIGHT BLONDE

VERY LIGHT BLONDE

BLONDE PLATINUM

RED ORANGE

ORANGE RED

ORANGE

YELLOW ORANGE

YELLOW

LIGHT YELLOW

THE PH SCALE

acid neutral basic

The pH (hydrogen potential) expresses the acid or basic character of solutions. The pH scale ranges from 1 to 14, but as regards the skin it stands at physiologically values between 4.2 and 5.6.

Value 7 is considered neutral pH. Above this value one speaks of basic or alkaline pH, below acid pH.

It is also important to know that the pH is not the same for everyone: c’è una componente genetica che va a braccetto con una ambientale, differisce tra uomini e donne in base all’età e soprattutto alle parti del corpo. In newborns, the pH reaches a value close to 7, which is why “neutral” cleansing products must be used on their delicate skin. With time the pH decreases, in fact, in adults the average is 5.6, but it changes according to the areas of the body.

The skin pH: what is it for?

The skin is covered in its outermost part by a hydrolipidic film, known as acid mantle, essentially composed of water and sebum. Its purpose is to protect the skin from external agents such as cold, sun, pollution, chemicals and infections. A healthy skin has an acid pH (around 5.5).

HOW THE PH ACTS ON HAIR

The pH allows us to act on hair, through the use of technical products, by opening the scales and allowing us to reach within.

pH 4,5 - 5,5 no swelling = healthy hair

Once the mixture we have created with colouring cream and hydrogen peroxide has entered the cortex, it will start the OXIDATION process that allows us to deposit and fix the coloured pigments (oxidizing the colour precursors) modifying and if necessary lightening the natural melanins, thus giving rise to the new colour.

The alkaline pH allows us to open up the scales while acidity allows us to close them again. That is why, after a technical service it is very important to apply an acidifying treatment on hair to bring the hair back to its pretreatment condition to ensure combability, shine and softness.

(section of the hair)

100% GREY HAIR COVERAGE

EXTREME SHINE

INTENSE AND VIBRANT COLOURS HIGH FIDELITY OF RESULTS

Active principle: GINKO BILOBA

Known for its powerful antioxidant action that eliminates free radicals, slowing down oxidation phenomena.

COLOUR FEATURES

Every colour is characterised by 3 parameters:

1) Tone

This means the family the nuance belongs to. Therefore the blue, red, yellow, green family... As for cosmetic colouring, ‘family’ refers to the reflect trend in which the nuance falls, for example: golden, ash, mahogany, copper...

2) Brightness

Determines how light or dark a colour is; it specifies the amount of white or black contained in the perceived colour. Every colour has a different degree of brightness and occupies a different space in terms of visual perception. If we wish to create a perceptual balance we must distribute the various colour zones proportionally. A very bright colour will need to occupy a smaller area than a colour with a lower degree of brightness.

3) Saturation

It is the measure of the purity, intensity of a colour.

A BRIEF OUTLINE OF COLORIMETRY

PRIMARY COLOURS

SECONDARY COLOURS

TERTIARY COLOURS

COUNTER COLOURS

Counter colours or complementary colours

These are the opposite colours in the chromatic circle. When added they create neutral colours that range from the grey scale to the brown scale. When superposed they neutralise one another. When used next to each other they amplify each other’s intensity.

COLORIMETRY

TONE HEIGHTS AND REFLECTS

The international numbering system allows us to use a number to describe a nuance.

Tone height is expressed by the first digit from 1 (which identifies BLACK) to 10 (which identifies BLONDE PLATINUM).

A second digit, separated from the first by a point, defines the primary reflect or the series the colour belongs to.

The third digit is the secondary reflect which added to the primary reflect can attenuate it, strengthen it or turn it into a warmer or colder reflect.

OXIDISERS

Colouring is developed through special activators based on hydrogen peroxide so that, through oxidation, the precursors react and become coloured pigments within the hair.

The opening phase of the scales is carried out by the ammonia contained in the colouring cream thanks to its alkalinity.

Oxidizing action

Chemical compound whose formula is H2O2. Liquid with a similar appearance to that of water, it can also be found in a more fluid or creamy form. The concentration of the solutions is expressed as a percentage or as volumes of oxygen contained. It has acid pH and it is formulated to work synergistically with the colouring cream. Its functions are:

> oxidising the colour precursors transforming them into coloured pigments

> lightening the melanins

> balancing the pH of the colouring

Hydrogen peroxide is chosen according to the need to lighten melanin. In Fanola we have activators with volumes 3.5, 10, 20, 30, 40 which correspond to 1.05, 3, 6, 9, 12 %

We also have Violet Peroxyde (pigmented creamy hydrogen peroxide), coloured with a special purple pigment to minimise unwanted yellow reflects or to enhance the reflects of the cold series, in volumes 5 and 25 i.e. 1.5 and 7.5% (hydrogen OXIDISING AGENT

BLEACHING POWER AND NATURAL STARTING BACKGROUNDS

EXAMPLES OF CREATIVE MIXES

Fanola Color and our creativity allow us to create endless nuances and shades, by mixing 2 or more colours in variable percentages.

CORRECTORS

The correctors can be used on lightened hair for crazy effects or mixed with all the other nuances to intensify or neutralise the reflects.

RED

Using the counter colour theory they can also be used to neutralise unwanted reflects.

Examples of MIXES with Correctors

Special treatment for starlight balayage with lightening of up to 2 tones on natural hair (1 on coloured hair) and to obtain natural “sun-kissed” effects.

Activator: 3,5 - 5 - 10 - 20 - 25 - 30 - 40 vol

Processing time: 35/60 min

It has a slight pickling effect which makes it possible to slightly lighten a cosmetic colour that is too dark and eliminate colour overloads or unwanted reflects.

To give shine and silkiness to natural hair without changing its natural colour.

It can be added to all nuances to intensify their lightening effect or make the colour brighter

Examples of MIXES with Neutral

SUPER-LIGHTENERS SERIE 11

Super-lighteners with high bleaching power that make it possible to achieve a perfect balance between lightening and pigment deposit.

Activator: 40 vol (12%)

Processing time: 50/60 min

Bleaching levels: 4 guaranteed on backgrounds from base 7

SUPERLIGHT BLONDE PLATINUM ASH

BLONDE PLATINUM PEARL

BLONDE PLATINUM BEIGE

SUPER-LIGHTENERS SERIE 12

Superschiarenti ad elevato potere schiarente con massima neutralizzazione dei residui melaninici caldi.

Activator: 40 vol (12%)

Processing time: 50/60 min

Bleaching levels: 4.5/5 guaranteed on backgrounds from base 7

SUPERLIGHT BLONDE PLATINUM ASH EXTRA

FIBERFIX

Does not alter the colour result and the bleaching power of the bleach

Maintains standard processing times

Does not change mixing ratios

Does not require additional procedures

A professional range that enhances and highlights the technical service. In particular, an innovative toning product that is mixed with colour and bleach,

BOND FIXER BOND CONNECTORFIBER SHAMPOO

ULTRA CONCETRATED AMINO-TECHNOLOGY

The innovative and special complex of highly concentrated plant-based amino acids that connects to the hair fibres to strengthen and seal their structural bonds.

Multiplies keratin bonds, improves and strengthens the sulphur bridges damaged during previous treatments.

Visibly and instantly improves the quality and structure of hair, making it plump, shiny, strong and healthy from base to tip.

RESTORATIVE ACTION

Fiber Fix Fanola Color cream

Hydrogen Peroxides