Mollie Stone's REAL FOOD Winter 2022

RI

CK

M

real food

AR

TÍ

N

EZ

:F

IN

DI

NG

TH

E

winter 2022

RE

AL

TA S

TE

O

F

M

EX

IC O

Winter 2022

catering.molliestones.co Let Mollie Stone’s cate r your holidays. Order online for in-store pickup

m

SEE PAGE 12

THE

Elevate Everyday Party-worthy fare that brings it

volume 18 number 4

17

COMPLIMENTARY

DELICIOUS ROLLS

Sweet treats and savory snacks

RF_Winter22_Cover_1tr.indd 17

APPY HOUR

Tasty small bites for a festive night

COZY COMFORTS

Embrace the pace of mountain life

10/6/22 4:26 PM

CHANGING THE WAY THE WORLD MIXES! Clear the counter for the Cuisinart of Stand Mixers and get more power, precision, capacity and control.

More power with 1000 watts of unrivaled strength. More precision with an auto-shutoff digital countdown timer. More capacity with an extra-large 7-quart stainless steel mixing bowl. More control with 12 mixing speeds.

We’re not done yet. We are the only stand mixer with an ultra-convenient gentle fold feature – plus, three power outlets to connect five attachments.

Get your hands on the Cuisinart™ Stand Mixer™ and change the way you mix!

[more power | more precision | more control | more capacity] Explore a new world of mixing at www.cuisinartstandmixer.com

RF_Winter22_Ads_National.indd 2 REALFOOD.Spring18_FP Cover Ads.indd 4

10/7/22 9:04 AM 1/8/18 9:35 AM

Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

RF_Winter22_Ads_National.indd 1 REALFOOD.Spring18_FP Page 1 Ad.indd 1 LC_HappyHr_RlFood-FullPg FNL.ind1 1

10/7/22 9:04 AM 1/8/18 9:32 AM 7/12/07 5:16:14 PM

contents

real food

®

winter 2022

Features 20 Festive Foods That Bring It A few twists elevate everyday ingredients into dinner party fare—plus potluck pointers for the host and guest

BY KRISTIN DONNELLY

30 Sweet and Savory Spirals Delicious bread rolls from gooey treats to cheesy appetizers

BY ROBIN ASBELL

38 Appy Hour Tasty small bites and delicious wine come together for a fun and festive night RECIPES BY BARBARA SCOTT-GOODMAN

46 Cozy Comforts Embrace the relaxed pace of mountain life with warming recipes rooted in the peaks RECIPES BY LIZZIE K AMENETZK Y AND KELLEY EPSTEIN

52 Finding “Mi Cocina” Rick Martínez shares a glimpse into his epic journey throughout Mexico that resulted in his new cookbook

BY QUINTON SKINNER

Departments 4 Bites Discover the therapeutic comforts of baking RECIPES BY BENJAMINA EBUEHI

6 Kitchen Skills Kitchen Gadgets for the Chef: Fun and functional tools

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Glorious Garlic: This storied kitchen staple packs a punch

BY K ATHERINE LAWLESS

18 Healthy Habits Visual Cues for Portion Control: Look to everyday objects COURTESY MAYO CLINIC

56 Pairings Liquid Dessert: Sweet cocktails to top off any night

BY MARY SUBIALK A

RF_Winter22_TOC_5tr.indd 2

10/6/22 2:47 PM

17

30

38

20

On the cover: ROASTED CARROTS WITH DRIED APRICOTS, PISTACHIOS, AND SALTED YOGURT PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

real food

®

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR ALESHA TAYLOR

CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA

COVER PHOTO OF RICK MARTÍNEZ BORDERLINE SALTY

ASSOCIATE EDITORS SAMANTHA JOHNSON AND KATHERINE LAWLESS CREATIVE DIRECTOR TONYA SUTFIN PRODUCTION MANAGER LY NGUYEN

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR TED ROSSITER

PUBLISHING & SALES COORDINATOR JOHANNA MORIARTY

VOLUME 18, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse.

winter 2022 real food 3

RF_Winter22_TOC_5tr.indd 3

10/6/22 2:47 PM

bites

Banana, Tahini, and Rum Cake MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

There’s a different type of banana bread or cake for every mood. Sometimes you need a firmer, slightly dense loaf that can be toasted and doubled up as breakfast. Other times, you might lean toward something with a softer, more cakey crumb, perhaps studded with chocolate. This banana cake feels very grown up and is perfect for when you’re feeling a little fancy. It’s spiked with dark rum and a generous glug of tahini for a more savory, nutty profile but is still just as easy to make as any other banana bread. All you need is a couple of bowls and a wooden spoon. –benjamina ebuehi For the Cake

BANANA, TAHINI, AND RUM CAKE

Every y Day Is a Good Day to Bake Discover the therapeutic comforts of baking with these approachable sweet and savory recipes.

W

hether it was learning a new skill or honing a hobby, many of us resorted to something—anything—to keep our hands and minds busy during the pandemic. London-based baker, author, and “The Great British Bake Off” contestant Benjamina Ebuehi, of course, turned to baking—and wrote a book about it. “During a strange time of lockdowns and the world being flipped on its head, one small joy was seeing how many people picked up baking for the first time or returned to it after some time away,” Ebuehi says. “Whether it was baking just to pass the time, baking with kids to keep them busy while homeschooling, or providing homemade goodies to frontline workers, it was a sweet reminder of the way that food really does bring us together.”

In her book “A Good Day to Bake,” Ebuehi’s recipes encapsulate a natural, down-to-earth way of baking—one that is led by flavors such as tahini, matcha, cardamom, and almonds. Ebuehi reminds us that digging out the measuring cups, whisking the eggs, and stirring the batter are rituals that deserve to be enjoyed year-round. The recipes from the book highlighted here, for example, would be great treats for the holidays, but also anytime of year. “It can be so easy to get lost and caught up in the rhythms of the week, but let the kitchen—however big or small—be a space in which you let loose, slow down, and are present,” she says.

“Because every day is a good day to bake.” –ALESHA TAYLOR

2 ½ ½ ⅓ 10½ 3 1 ¾ 2 ¼ ½

eggs cup light brown sugar cup dark brown sugar cup tahini ounces (about 3 medium) bananas tablespoons dark rum cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour cup whole-wheat rye flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of salt Walnuts, for topping

For the Glaze

½ ½ ½ 1

cup (scant) powdered sugar tablespoon dark rum teaspoon tahini teaspoon vanilla bean paste

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease and line the base of an 8-inch springform cake pan.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and sugars together for 1 minute or so until combined and just a little bit paler. Mix in the tahini.

3. In a separate bowl, mash the bananas with the rum. Add the bananas to your egg mixture and stir to combine. Add both flours, the baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt. Stir until just combined.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake for about 40 to 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Let cool slightly in the pan while you make the glaze.

5. To make the glaze, mix all the glaze ingredients until smooth and it’s a pourable consistency. If it is too thick, add 1 teaspoon of water at a time to loosen.

6. Pour the glaze over the warm cake, and let it set for 10 minutes before turning the cake out onto a serving plate. Top with walnuts, if desired, and let it cool completely before serving.

4 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_Bites_5tr.indd 4

10/6/22 2:51 PM

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE, OLIVE OIL, AND ALMOND CAKE

Flourless Chocolate, Olive Oil, and Almond Cake MAKES 12 TO 16 SERVINGS

Flourless chocolate cakes can often lean into a deeply fudgy, almost sticky texture, but this version still retains a bit of a cakey crumb that stays eternally moist, thanks to all the ground almonds. It makes for a good celebration cake or something to serve after a cozy dinner party when only chocolate on chocolate on chocolate will do. Serve with a good splash of cold cream.

–benjamina ebuehi For the Cake

2½ 1¼ ⅔ 3 1¾ 1 ½

ounces dark chocolate cups granulated sugar cup (scant) extra-virgin olive oil eggs cups ground almonds cup (scant) cocoa powder teaspoon baking soda

1. Start with the cake. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease and line an 8-inch cake pan.

Melt the chocolate in short bursts in the microwave or in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Set aside to cool.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar and oil. Add the eggs and beat until smooth, then mix in the melted chocolate.

3. In a separate bowl, mix the ground almonds, cocoa powder, baking soda, and

½ teaspoon salt ⅔ cup (scant) hot water For the Ganache

6 ounces dark chocolate, plus extra shavings to decorate 1 cup (scant) heavy cream

salt. Stir this mixture into the wet ingredients until fully combined. Pour in the hot water and give it a good stir before pouring the batter into the cake pan.

4. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool completely in the pan.

5. For the ganache, finely chop the chocolate and place it in a bowl. Heat the cream in

a small saucepan until steaming, just before it comes to the boil. Pour the cream onto the chocolate, and let it sit undisturbed for about 30 seconds.

6. Start stirring slowly from the middle, working your way outward until you have a smooth ganache. If there are still a few unmelted lumps, place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir until everything is melted.

7. Place the cooled cake on a wire rack and set the rack over a baking sheet or a sheet of baking paper to catch the chocolate. Pour the ganache over the cake, letting it drip down the sides. Use a palette knife to help the ganache drip to any uncovered areas. Let the cake set for 30 minutes before covering with some chocolate shavings. ■

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “A GOOD DAY TO BAKE” BY BENJAMINA EBUEHI © 2022 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM HARDY GRANT BOOKS. PHOTOS BY LAURA EDWARDS.

winter 2022 real food 5

RF_Winter22_Bites_5tr.indd 5

10/6/22 2:52 PM

kitchen skills

Kitchen Gadgets for the Chef Fun and functional gadgets that are worthy of space in your kitchen

BY JASON ROSS

N

ot every gadget deserves a spot in your kitchen: Cooking with your hands and a good chef’s knife can work for just about everything. But some gadgets fill their need—or even a few needs—so well that making room for them is worth it as they earn their spot with their usefulness.

Check out the selection of gadgets on page 8. They could help in making pasta dough and the Ricotta Ravioli with Butter Sauce recipe here, not to mention add a little fun, along with function, to your cooking. These are just a few kitchen gadgets I love, and will make you, or the chef in your life, a little faster, a little finer, and maybe even a little happier in the kitchen.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Pasta Dough MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Here is a good, easy-to-work-with pasta dough. It uses soft all-purpose and hard semolina flour for flexibility and a little bite. ½ pound all-purpose flour plus extra for dusting as needed ½ pound semolina flour Pinch of salt 5 lightly whipped eggs 1 tablespoon olive oil 1. In a large mixing bowl, use a balloon whisk or fork to combine the flours and salt.

2. On a clean work surface, make a wide, shallow mound of flour, about 6 inches across, with walls of flour about 1 inch high.

3. Pour the eggs and olive oil into the well in the flour.

4. Use a fork to pull flour from the sides of the well, and gradually incorporate the flour into the eggs using the fork. Continue pulling flour into the eggs, working around the well and stirring the flour into the egg mixture with the fork, until dough begins to form, and becomes too thick to handle with a fork. As the dough forms, scrape it off the fork and mix the remaining flour and dough with your hands until the flour is fully incorporated into the dough.

5. On a clean work surface, knead the dough by folding and pushing it with the heels of your hands, rotating and repeating. If the dough is sticky and hard to handle, add a little extra flour. Knead for 10 to 15 minutes until the dough is silky smooth.

6. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. This will allow the dough to relax and make it easier to roll out without springing back.

7. The dough is now ready to roll and cook.

It can be wrapped in plastic film, and refrigerated for up to 1 day, although it is best used on the same day. Longer time will result in greyish discoloration.

Ricotta Ravioli Filling MAKES 6 SERVINGS OR ABOUT 30 RAVIOLIS

Use this ricotta mixture to fill ravioli—and if you have any left over, use it as a flavorful sandwich spread.

1 1 2 ¼ 3 ¼ 1

clove garlic teaspoon salt teaspoons lemon juice teaspoon black pepper cups whole milk ricotta cup grated Parmesan cheese tablespoon minced herbs (basil, parsley, or chives), optional

1. Use a silicone roller (like the one shown on page 8) to peel the garlic, then use a micro grater (also shown on page 8) to shave the garlic into fine mince. In a small mixing bowl, combine garlic, salt, and lemon juice. Let the mixture sit for a couple minutes to soften the flavor and texture.

2. Next, use a spoon to mix in the pepper, ricotta, Parmesan, and herbs, if using. Mix until well combined. Taste the cheese mixture and add salt or lemon juice, if desired.

3. Use immediately or transfer to a lidded container and refrigerate up to 1 week.

6 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_KitchSkills_9tr.indd 6

10/5/22 2:25 PM

Ricotta Ravioli with Butter Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This recipe uses the Pasta Dough, Ricotta Ravioli Filling, and the ravioli mold, as well as the other gadgets covered on page 8.

1

1 2 4

Pasta Dough, rested (see recipe left) Ricotta Filling (see recipe left) Semolina flour, for dusting gallon boiling water and pinch of salt for cooking pasta Cooking spray tablespoon olive oil shallots, minced tablespoons unsalted butter Pinch of salt and pepper Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. After the dough has rested, cut it into four equal pieces with a kitchen knife.

Smaller pieces of dough are easier to roll. If using refrigerated dough, allow the wrapped dough to warm a bit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

2. Either use a pasta machine or a rolling pin to roll the dough into noodles wide enough and long enough to fully cover the ravioli mold—like wide lasagna noodles. Roll the dough thin—nearly 1⁄8 to 1⁄16 inch—but not so thinly that it tears easily.

3. Spray the ravioli mold to help the dough to release and lay a noodle over the metal frame covering all the ravioli sections. Use the plastic form to press the dough gently and make little depressions in the dough for the filling.

4. Spoon about 1½ tablespoons of ricotta filling into each ravioli depression.

5. Use a pastry brush or your fingers to brush water onto the edges of the pasta around the

filling. This will help seal the pasta around it.

6. Lay another noodle over the filled ravioli form. Use a rolling pin and push the two sheets of pasta together. Be firm and press with some pressure so the ravioli maker cuts into the dough, leaving clean cut raviolis.

7. Invert the ravioli maker and let them fall out onto a tray.

Use a dusting wand to sprinkle generously with semolina flour on all sides.

8. Repeat the process until the dough and filling are used.

The ravioli could be stored covered on a tray overnight, but are better served the same day. They can also be frozen, wrapped on a tray, and then transferred to zip-top bags in the freezer for up to 6 months.

9. Cook the ravioli in salted boiling water until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. While the ravioli cooks, add the olive oil to a large sauté pan and sweat the shallots on medium-low heat for about 2 to 3 minutes.

10. Use a slotted spoon or a kitchen strainer and add the cooked ravioli to the shallots and butter, along with about ½ cup of the pasta cooking water. Swirl in the butter, salt, and pepper, using a sauce whisk to incorporate the butter into the sauce. Try to push the pasta to the sides of the pan so you do not break the ravioli with the whisk. Whisk until all the butter is incorporated, and the sauce is thickened and shiny. If it gets too thick, add in another 1 or 2 tablespoons of the pasta water.

11. Serve the ravioli immediately in pasta bowls, making sure each piece is coated in a little sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 630, Fat: 30g (Sat: 15g), Cholesterol: 225mg, Sodium: 740mg, Carb: 67g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 1g, Protein: 24g Continued on page 8

winter 2022 real food 7

RF_Winter22_KitchSkills_9tr.indd 7

10/5/22 2:25 PM

contributors

Gadgets You’ll Love Make life in the kitchen a little easier and add some fun with these tools.

Robin Asbell spreads the

1

2

3

word about delicious whole, real foods through her work as an author, cooking teacher, and private chef. She is the author of “Plant-Based Meats,” “Great Bowls of Food,” “Big Vegan,” “Gluten-Free Pasta,” and more.

Terry Brennan is a p h oto g r a p h e r b a s e d i n Minneapolis , Minnesota.

C l i e n t s i n c l u d e Ta r g e t , General Mills, Land O’Lakes, and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight—I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Kristin Donnelly is the

5

4

1.

Ravioli Maker Press

Handmade stuffed pasta is impressive, wonderful, and yummy—and, unfortunately, time consuming. While a ravioli maker will not drastically change that, it will make shaping the ravioli much faster. If your maker has 10 or 12 slots, then bingo—you are now 10 or 12 times faster than you would have been had you made them without the press. The metal frame’s cutting feature does some of the work for you, sealing the “pillows” so there is no need to spend time pinching raviolis by hand. Also, each ravioli will be the same shape and weight, all cut to the exact same size. Use the ravioli maker for other filled doughs like pierogi, or dumplings and pot stickers.

2.

Dusting Wand

This is such a sweet little gadget for dusting foods neatly and quickly. Instead of the alternative of a fine strainer and a spoon, this duster holds flour in the end of the wand, in a capsule, and then when it is time for dusting, you just shake it a bit. Use it to dust breads, pasta, muffin tins or cake pans, or fill it with powdered sugar and garnish tarts, cakes, and all types of sweet treats.

3.

Micro Grater

Two things about a micro grater: Every chef has one, and no other tool can replicate what it does. There simply is no other tool that can shave and grate foods as finely and wispy as a micro grater. Use it for cheese, lemon zest, spices such as nutmeg, dark chocolate, garlic, and probably 20 other foods.

4.

Silicone Garlic Peeler

If you use fresh garlic at home with any frequency, then you know the difficulty of peeling garlic, especially for dishes that require more than just a few cloves.

Like magic, these tubes whisk away the peels from garlic with minimal effort, and hands stay clean of garlic’s famous garlicky “perfume.”

5.

author of “Modern Potluck” and the Substack subscription newsletter Mission: Dinner, which provides one easy recipe per week (each using about five ingredients and taking 30 minutes or less to prepare). She is also the cohost of the Everything Cookbooks podcast.

She lives in New Hope, Pennsylvania, with her family. You can find her at kristindonnelly.com.

Sauce Whisk

A sauce whisk functions just like a balloon whisk except it’s better and smarter for warm sauces made in a pan, such as butter sauce or gravy. The flat whisk lays against the bottom of flat-sided pans and is able to bind and incorporate sauces faster and without as much movement, effort, and splashing as a regular balloon-style whisk. ■

Lara

Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis.

Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. Her experience as a chef helps her make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross is a chef consultant for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. He currently teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

Quinton Skinner is the author of fiction and nonfiction books, as well as work in numerous national publications including Glamour, Experience Life, Huffington Post, Delta Sky, and American Theatre. He was senior editor of Minnesota Monthly and METRO magazine, and is the co-founder of Logosphere Storysmiths.

8 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_KitchSkills_9tr.indd 8

10/6/22 2:59 PM

Mollie Stone’s Markets

welcome

BURLINGAME 1477 Chapin Ave. 650-558-9992 GREENBRAE 270 Bon Air Center 415-461-1164 PALO ALTO 164 S California Ave. 650-323-8361 SAN BRUNO 22 Bayhill Shopping Center 650-873-8075 SAN FRANCISCO - CASTRO 4201 18th St. 415-255-8959 SAN FRANCISCO - PACIFIC HEIGHTS 2435 California St. 415-567-4902 SAN FRANCISCO - TWIN PEAKS 635 Portola Drive 415-664-1600 SAN MATEO 49 West 42nd Ave. 650-372-2828 SAUSALITO 100 Harbor Drive 415-331-6900

WE DELIVER IN AS LITTLE AS TWO HOURS OR LESS! delivery.molliestones.com

CATERING & MEALS TO GO Let the Chefs at Mollie Stone’s make life a little bit easier!

Order online for in-store pickup at catering.molliestones.com

Making a Difference Through Food W

hat is a gathering without food? Whether you’re hosting a holiday dinner or a casual get-together anytime throughout the months ahead—or wondering what to contribute as a guest—we’ve got you covered.

No doubt you’ll want to serve dishes that are a little extra special this season, but that doesn’t mean they have to be more expensive. We’ll show you ways to elevate everyday ingredients into party-worthy fare from jazzing up carrots to turkey breast, beef, and more (page 20). Tasty small bites and a delicious bottle of wine come together for a fun and festive night (page 38). Mountain-inspired comfort fare warms body and soul this winter (page 46). And there’s no denying the appealing swirl of tender dough filled with sweetness and spice in cinnamon rolls. Plus, we riff on the idea with fillings for other sweet rolls and savory options that are just right for brunch, afternoon coffee, or even appetizers (page 30).

Our department managers are always hard at work to bring you delicious options, whatever your food preferences. Tamira Franz, Director of Health and Wellness at Mollie Stone’s, helps you celebrate with everyone’s dietary concerns in mind including gluten-free, dairy-free, egg replacements, and more (page 10). Brian Carter, Director of Produce, has created a guide to help you learn more about the array of winter squash for comforting dishes throughout the season (page 11). For your main course, whether you prefer juicy beef, turkey, savory ham, or crab, we have a wonderful selection. Michael Tomasello, Director of Meat, Poultry, and Seafood, walks you through our choices plus how to prepare a delicious prime rib roast (page 14). Mark Thrift, Director of Wine, Spirits and Beer, helps you raise a glass to the season with some of his favorite recommendations for robust red and rich white wines that pair well with the cooler weather and holiday meals (page 16).

When you could use some help in the kitchen, the talented chefs at Mollie Stone’s Markets can make life a little bit easier. Our chefs create wonderful foods for celebrations and holidays, meetings, a food gift to share, or anytime. The catering options are great for large quantities, or if you’re looking for dinner tonight, try our Family Meals. You can checkout online for in-store pickup at all nine store locations. Patricia Jordan, Director of Deli, Bakery, and Cheese, highlights the great catering options and offers party planning tips to help you entertain deliciously (page 12).

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all our customers who have contributed to the World Food Program, raising money for the people of Ukraine. We have raised over $55,000, making a difference for families facing food insecurity caused by the onset of sudden and devastating conflict, the main driver of hunger globally. This has been part of the fabric of our company’s mission, making a difference in people’s lives through food.

In these uncertain times, we are grateful for your business. Have a happy and healthy holiday season and new year ahead.

Mike Stone Owner, Mollie Stone’s Markets

Visit us online

molliestones.com Follow Us!

molliestones.com real food 9

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 9

10/6/22 5:03 PM

Mollie Stone’s Markets

grocery

Holiday Helpers

BY TAMIRA FRANZ, DIRECTOR OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS

delicious and accessible options to gluten, dairy, refined sugar, and animal-based products. Traditional recipes and your favorite dishes can be adjusted with tried-and-true

Nondairy Cheese and Butter

Egg Replacement

On a cheese platter, offer a selection of nondairy cheese, gluten-free crackers, crudités (sliced raw vegetables), and plant-based dips like hummus or nondairy cream cheese.

MY RECOMMENDATIONS: Miyoko’s vegan cheeses and European butter • Earth Balance butter • Follow Your Heart vegan parmesan or vegan Gouda • Violife nut free and vegan feta or sliced cheese

Gluten-free Breads, Breadcrumbs, Stuffing Mixes, and Crackers MY RECOMMENDATIONS:

Bread SRSLY Sourdough bread and dinner rolls • Aleia’s stuffing mix and breadcrumbs • Mary’s Gone Crackers or Stonewall crackers

Rather than using eggs in a cookie or pumpkin pie recipe, try unsweetened applesauce.

Generally, ¼ cup applesauce substitutes for 1 egg; just keep in mind the applesauce will also add sweetness and it may be necessary to reduce the recipe’s overall sugar.

MY RECOMMENDATIONS: Applesauce • ground flaxseed or chia seed • Bob’s Red Mill egg replacer

White Flour Substitutions Instead of regular white flour, gluten-free flour can be used 1:1 in most recipes calling for regular wheat flour without a noticeable difference.

MY RECOMMENDATIONS: High quality and popular brands include Bob’s Red Mill gluten-free flour, King Arthur gluten-free flour, and Cup 4 Cup. Try using cassava flour as it replaces 1:1 in most recipes. Cassava is a root vegetable, also known as yucca, and is similar to the potato or yam. The cassava root is peeled, dried and ground into flour producing a mild and neutral flavor that lends well to baking and is grain free, nut free, and gluten free.

Sugar Substitutions

Plant-based Meat Alternatives

Reduce sugar content and the subsequent calories, without losing sweetness, by using stevia, erythritol, or a combination of the two when baking.

Entertain in style with a vegetarian center dish or vegan charcuterie board by substituting meat with plant-based options.

MY RECOMMENDATIONS:

Lakanto • In the Raw Monk fruit • Wholesome Organic Stevia

MY RECOMMENDATIONS:

Try Mia’s plant-based prosciutto wrapped around a slice of Miyoko’s vegan mozzarella or make stuffed mushrooms with Tofurky Italian sausage. Several brands, such as Field Roast, Quorn, Tofurky, and Gardein offer turkey and ham style roasts as the perfect centerpiece for the holiday table.

NOTE: Adjust your cooking time according to the package instructions if using a frozen plant-based holiday roast. ■

COOKIES ADOBE STOCK / BILLION PHOTOS

T

he holiday season is the time to celebrate and share traditions both timely and fresh. For those seeking or encouraging more conscientious eating, there are many

products that address allergen issues, dietary concerns, and support lifestyle plans. Plantbased items—including my following recommendations—can serve as easy ingredient replacements in popular seasonal recipes, appetizers, cheese, and charcuterie boards.

Shop locally in Mollie Stone’s Markets where we strive to inspire deliciousness and make a difference in people’s lives through food.

10 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 10

10/5/22 4:11 PM

Mollie Stone’s Markets

produce

Winter Squash Guide Get to know the delicious array of squash for comforting cool-weather dishes.

BY BRIAN CARTER, DIRECTOR OF PRODUCE

T

he best of the fall harvest brings us a colorful array of winter squash that will parlay into delicious dishes and soups that keep us warm in the winter months. We choose our assortment from local organic farmers such as Dwelley Family Farms in Brentwood and Durst Organic Growers in Esparto. Winter squash is plentiful and great in countless recipes that bring out its best qualities. Plus, squash is available at the perfect time of year for comforting, hearty meals that are also healthy. Here are some of the more popular winter squash varieties we want you to get to know, along with ideas for their best uses.

Acorn

Red Kuri

Until the recent rise in popularity of butternut squash, acorn was the most commonly available squash in the U.S. It is a great all-around squash with moist, sweet, and tender flesh.

BEST USES: Roasting, baking, steaming, mashing, and sautéing. It will also make an excellent vegetarian main course this holiday season.

The red kuri squash looks like a small red-orange pumpkin without the deep ridges in the sides. The flesh is bright orange and has a mellow, somewhat nutty, flavor.

BEST USES: Look toward baked goods recipes for this bright winter squash.

Butternut

This is all about the texture. Once cooked, the flesh pulls apart into thick, slightly crisp, noodle-like strands.

BEST USES: Many people serve it as a gluten-free pasta alternative topped with tomato sauce or other savory favorites.

This is the sweetest winter squash. Its flesh is thick and moist and hides very few seeds. Its peel is comparatively thin and easy to peel. It is versatile and roasts and sautés quickly.

BEST USES: With no thick strands or fibrous bits, this squash can blend to a smooth consistency that’s ready to use in soup.

SQUASH VARIETIES ADOBE STOCK / PHOTO GALLERY

Delicata Delicata squash is small, oblong, and cheerfully striped in bright yellow, dark green, and orange.

The peel is exceptionally thin and is edible.

BEST USES: This beautiful squash is particularly delicious simply roasted with butter or stuffed and baked.

Kabocha Kabocha has a remarkably sweet and tender flesh with a slightly nutty flavor. The dense, smooth, sweet flesh is so tasty it needs very little fuss in preparation.

BEST USES: This will hold its shape when cooked, making it perfect in your next warming winter soup.

Spaghetti

Sugar Pie Sweet Pumpkins Sugar pie pumpkins make for great eating and can be used just like acorn squash.

BEST USES: Bake, roast, mash, or puree these eating pumpkins just like other winter squash— and make the ever-popular pumpkin pie.

Sweet Dumpling The yellow skin with bright orange or deep green stripes makes this small, terribly cute squash hard to resist. The flesh is starchy with a slight corn flavor.

BEST USES: The small size of this squash makes it perfect for stuffing and roasting. ■

molliestones.com real food 11

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 11

10/5/22 4:11 PM

Mollie Stone’s Markets

deli, bakery, and cheese

Entertain Deliciously

BY PATRICIA JORDAN, DIRECTOR OF DELI, BAKERY, AND CHEESE

c ate

ri

ng

Visit us at: .m o

ters, cheese boards, full dinners, and à la carte offerings that make entertaining easy. Our meals all come with heating instructions and our appetizer boards are ready to go; just open and serve. And a nice touch—most appetizers come on a beautiful wood serving board. We have included a small sampling of customer favorites here and you can see more online.

co m

ing a difference in people’s lives through food.

That’s our mission, after all!

As you think about what you will need for your get-togethers, refer to my Party Planning Checklist on the next page. Once these questions are answered, you can begin planning the event details. On our site or in store, you can inquire about the many beautiful plat-

s.

W

e have gone to great lengths to feature tried-and-true favorites for the season in addition to some new fun items such as our Assorted Stuffed Mushroom Board in our catered food offerings. When I say “we,” I mean our executive chef, John Ness, myself, and a team of food-loving folks who spend their time at Mollie Stone’s, mak-

llie sto

ne

12 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 12

10/5/22 4:11 PM

Party Planning Checklist

Planning a party can be a bit stressful. However, to help me plan I use this checklist as I prepare for a dinner party or any manner of festivity.

These questions are my starting point:

1. What is the occasion? Every great gathering must have a theme!

2. How many people will there be? Space and quantities need to be considered.

3. What time of day will it be?

Food choices will naturally vary by time of day. For example, if you are hosting an early gathering you may want to pick up our Morning Pastries Box, or for an evening gathering perhaps our Local Cheese Board.

4. Does it need to be outdoors? If so, there are many variables to consider: What time of day? Will I need to keep food warm? What if it rains? If serving a buffet, will foods need to be covered?

5. Will I serve buffet, sit down, or will food be passed around the table family style? This is usually dictated by number of guests. All our catering options call out serving sizes for easy planning.

9. Will I serve cocktails, beer or wine?

Of course, you will!

6. Will cutlery be needed? This is impacted by the above question or vice versa.

11. Do I want to have a party favor? We have so many great favor-appropriate goods in our stores; I especially love to tie local chocolate bars with a festive ribbon as favors. ■

7. Are any of my guests vegetarian or gluten intolerant, vegan, etc.?

We have lots of choices!

8. How long will the gathering last?

This helps determine the amount of food needed. For example, if you are having dinner and drinks, plan for an appetizer tray or cheese board for both before and after the main course.

10. What will the sweet end of the meal be? Plan to serve coffee or tea with it?

Scan for Mollie Stone’s Catering near you molliestones.com real food 13

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 13

10/5/22 4:11 PM

Mollie Stone’s Markets

meat department

Holiday Centerpieces From juicy beef to tasteful turkey, ham, or seafood, Mollie Stone’s has the perfect choice for your holiday dinners.

BY MICHAEL TOMASELLO, DIRECTOR OF MEAT, POULTRY, AND SEAFOOD

BEEF

TURKEY

Standing Rib Roast—USDA Choice and USDA Prime

We want only the best for your holiday tables with our Mollie Stone’s turkey selections.

Our free-range turkeys are 100% natural, pure, and delicious and the perfect choice for your special feast.

ri

co m

s.

c ate

Celebrate in style with a standing rib roast.

Also known as prime rib, this cut of beef is from the primal rib, one of nine primal cuts.

A standing rib roast contains one to seven ribs. This roast has rich flavor and juicy tenderness with generous marbling throughout. Plus, the rib bones provide a Place your natural roastorders early: ing rack. Order early to get your rib roast in time ng for your holiday ne .m o llie sto get together.

How is Beef Certified?

Meat is certified USDA Choice or USDA Prime. USDA Choice grade is high quality, but has less marbling (interior fat) than Prime. Choice and Prime roasts and steaks from the loin and rib will be very tender, juicy, and flavorful and suited to dry-heat cooking (broiling, roasting, or grilling).

USDA Prime grade is produced from young, well-fed beef cattle. It has abundant marbling and is generally sold in restaurants and hotels. It is featured at all Mollie Stone’s locations during the holiday season and select locations throughout the year.

Mollie Stone’s Free-range Turkey

Mollie Stone’s free-range turkeys are raised on a vegetarian diet of healthful grains and allowed to roam in areas four times the size of areas provided by the average commercial turkey ranch. Their high-protein diet provides the optimal amount of nutrients for the turkey to grow into bigger and more flavorful turkeys than those typically found at the supermarket.

(Available in 10 to 30 pounds.)

■ Fresh turkeys ■ No preservatives ■ Raised naturally by hand ■ No artificial ingredients and free-range with plenty of access to sunshine ■ Free of hormones ■ Gluten-free ■ Fed a Non-GMO Project verified vegetarian diet ■ USDA Grade A Seal of Approval

Mary’s Certified Organic Free-range Turkey

Mary’s Certified Organic free-range turkeys are an additional step up the ladder in humane farming practices. These turkeys have freedom to move about and receive a premium diet void of any chemical stimulators. Organic birds are also farmed organically as well as fed an organic certified feed.

Mary’s Non-GMO Turkey, Mary’s Organic Turkey, and Mary’s Heritage Turkey are: ■ Free-range ■ Fed a vegetarian non-GMO certified diet ■ Gluten-free ■ No antibiotics—ever ■ No preservatives ■ No added hormones ■ Step 3 rating from the Global Animal Partnership Also available at Mollie Stone’s Markets

Willie Bird Free-range Turkeys, Mary’s Brine Turkeys, Mary’s Smoked Turkeys, and Mary’s Heritage Turkeys.

Order your holiday turkey at molliestones.com or talk to one of our knowledgeable butchers in-store who can help you decide which turkey is best for your family get-together.

APPROXIMATE TURKEY ROASTING TIMES AT 325°F

Aging or “ripening” of beef is simply holding cuts of beef and allowing natural processes that improve flavor and tenderness to take effect. We also dry age Prime Rib Roast and can dry age any special order. Ideal aging periods range from 14 to 30 days. Limited supplies are available. Please plan ahead and order early.

P O UND S

UNST UFFED

ST UFFE D

8-12 12

2¾–3 hours

3–3½ hours

12-14

3–3¾ hours

3½–4 hours

14-18

3¾–4¼ hours

4–4¼ hours

18-20

4¼–4½ hours

4¼–4¾ hours

20-24

4½–5 hours

5¼-5¾ hours

TURKEY ADOBE STOCK / EVGENYB

Estimated cooking times—cook until internal temperature of 165°F. Did You Know We Dry-age?

14 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 14

10/5/22 4:11 PM

PRIME RIB ROAST AND YORKSHIRE PUDDING

HAM Also available this holiday season are premium, fully cooked and delightfully smoky Dietz and Watson Spiral and Semi-Boneless Hams.

CRAB ADOBE STOCK / AHIRAO RIB ROAST ADOBE STOCK / HLPHOTO

CRAB SEAS ON Did you know that America has more varieties of crabs than anywhere else in the world?

Among them is the Dungeness crab, known as the king of the West Coast, which has a delicate and slightly sweet taste. Even though this crustacean is named for the port of Dungeness, Washington, it’s also a San Francisco Bay staple. In the 1800s Dungeness crab was plentiful within the Bay, but by the early 1930s it could only be found outside of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Dungeness crab is not only delicious, but it also offers several health benefits. The mild-tasting crustacean is low in fat and contains just 82 calories per 3-ounce serving.

The crabs contain minerals and nutrients that reduce inflammation, boost immunity, flush toxins, and increase circulation. They are also a great source of vitamin B12 and protein. Our local Dungeness crab season begins Nov. 15 and will be a celebrated delicacy at your next holiday dinner. ■

DUNGENESS CRAB

Prime Rib Roast MAKES 10 SERVINGS

For the Herb Rub

2 2 2 1 1

tablespoons onion powder tablespoons dried rosemary tablespoons black pepper teaspoon tarragon tablespoon rosemary

1 tablespoon garlic powder ¼ cup paprika ¼ cup salt (kosher salt makes a nice crust) 1 (8 to 10-pound) rib roast

1. Mix together ingredients for the rub. Heat the oven to 450°F. 2. If rib roast is dry, wet hands slightly and pat down roast before you put the dry herbs on. Rub dry herb mixture all over and into the rib roast.

3. Place roast, with the ribs down, on a wire rack inside a roaster pan. Place in oven and roast uncovered for 1 hour.

4. After 1 hour, turn off the oven without opening it.

5. In about 4 hours, turn on oven to 370°F and roast 30 minutes more for medium-rare and a little less for rare.

6. Remove the roast from the oven and let it rest for about 30 minutes before carving into steaks.

Yorkshire Pudding MAKES 8 SERVINGS

1½ cups all-purpose flour ¾ teaspoon sea salt ¾ cup Clover Sonoma’s Organic Whole Milk, room temperature

3 Mollie Stone’s Organic Cagefree Eggs, room temperature ¾ cup water ½ cup beef drippings

1. Mix flour and salt together until combined. Create a well in the flour, add the milk, and whisk until smooth. Beat the eggs into the batter. Add water and beat again until the mixture is light and frothy. Set aside for 1 hour (if it’s the day before your event, cover in the fridge overnight).

2. If batter has been refrigerated, allow it to reach room temperature before using.

3. When the standing rib roast is ready to come out of the oven, heat oven to 400°F. 4. Pour off drippings from the roast and measure out desired amount (about ½ cup). Pour drippings into a 9x12-inch baking dish and place into the oven until the drippings sizzle. Pour the batter mixture over the drippings and bake for 30 minutes, or until golden brown and the sides have risen. Cut into eight servings and enjoy!

molliestones.com real food 15

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 15

10/5/22 4:12 PM

Mollie Stone’s Markets

wine, spirits, and beer

Winter Companions

BY MARK THRIFT, DIRECTOR OF WINE, SPIRITS, AND BEER

ROBUST REDS Duckhorn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon An exceptional expression of Napa Valley terroir with aromas of black fig, raspberry, and chocolate with an undertone of sage, cardamom, and anise. Flavors of elderberry, plum, blueberry, and violet combine with silky tannins and a balanced acidity arriving at a long-focused finish. The blend of 84% Cabernet and 16% Merlot makes a wine with a classic style and fullbodied richness to pair with all your winter fare.

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon From Sonoma County, this wine is ruby red with a magenta rim and a nose of cassis and blackberry with undertones of vanilla and sage. The flavors include bright raspberry and dense black currant.

Chewy tannins and a bright fruit aftertaste make this a perfect pairing for any of your red-meat dishes or charcuterie platters.

Stags’ Leap “The Investor” Napa Valley Red Wine An elegant and concentrated blend of Napa Valley Merlot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec.

This wine is rich with plenty of tannins to keep its structure firm—some would say dusty. Layered and deliciously powerful yet approachable with significant fruit presence and velvety texture. One of my favorite winter companions.

The Prisoner Wine Company Saldo Red Blend A tasteful blend of 70% Petite Sirah and a 30% combination of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel. The result yields flavors of dark fruit, dried blackberries, mixed spices with plenty of density, and body. It is approachable and serious all at the same time, and completely balanced with a touch of oak that holds the structure of the wine together and makes for a memorable experience.

RICH WHITES Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge Chardonnay An estate-bottled, single-vineyard, Sonoma Coast appellation offering from one of my favorite wineries.

With brilliant golden hues, this has vibrant aromas of lemon peel, orange blossom, and apricot. The palate is rich and full-bodied with layered textures and elegant with beautiful hints of fresh lemon, orange blossoms, and dried lemon peel. Precisely balanced with vibrant acidity and a mineral character of crushed stones that complete the mouthfeel of this wine and its long finish.

Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay This represents the art of blending select barrels from the estate vineyards in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The belief is that the combination of Dijon clone vines, Jory soils, and high elevations give this an unparalleled quality.

An enticing tropical fruit medley of kiwi and yellow peach with notes of flowers and white linen, flawless oak integration, and a lingering minerality and salinity complete the tasting experience. Enjoy now or cellar over the next several years.

Far Niente Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay Richly aromatic with notes of white fig and citrus blossom, this wine is a captivating example of Napa Valley Chardonnay that slowly builds on the palate, progressing from silky notes of honeydew, nectarine, and lemon zest to a full finish supported by elegant toasted oak. Crisp minerality and balanced acidity support the complex framework of the wine. Best served at a cool, not cold, temperature.

Louis Latour Pouilly-Vinzelles “En Paradis” Already known to the Romans, the village of Vinzelles takes its name from the Latin for “small vines” and is close to the towns of Pouilly and Fuisse. Made entirely from Chardonnay and fermented in stainless steel vats, with complete malolactic fermentation, the nose reveals aromas of yellow fruit and vanilla, silky mouthfeel, and generous minerality that make this a perfect white wine companion for your winter gatherings. ■

WINE TOAST ADOBE / KRAKENIMAGES

During the winter months when we tend to stay indoors longer and cook more frequently or get catering a little more often, it is a wonderful time to get comfortable with some robust red wines and rich whites that pair well with our cooler weather and holiday meals. Here are some of my favorites from our vast assortment at Mollie Stone’s Markets.

16 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_MS_8tr.indd 16

10/5/22 4:12 PM

ingredient

Glorious Garlic This storied kitchen staple packs a flavorful punch.

BY K ATHERINE LAWLESS

GARLIC ADOBE STOCK / ATHITAT SHINAGOWIN / EYEEM TOUM ADOBE STOCK / ELENA

G

arlic has certainly made an impact on cooking and culture. Most famously, Eastern Europeans have claimed it wards off vampires, but its spiritual significance dates back much further.

Dr. Louis E. Grivetti, professor emeritus in the Department of Nutrition at the University of California, Davis, says there are records dating back to ancient Greece and Egypt showing garlic being used to protect against evil spirits, specifically the “evil eye,” a curse believed to be cast through a malevolent or envious glare. Love for this ingredient has even inspired the Gilroy Garlic Festival in Gilroy, California (the state that produces 90% of the United States’ garlic crop), an annual event with live music, golfing, and some of the best garlic in the world.

Garlic’s strong flavor is incredibly versatile, making it a staple in most every kitchen.

Fresh, raw garlic and garlic powder are used in countless dishes around the world, including Greek skordalia (garlic potato) spread, Spanish garlic soup, Mexican birria tacos, adobo from the Philippines, and toum Lebanese sauce and dip (see right).

Powerfully flavored garlic is often grouped into the herb family because it is used to season so many foods, but it’s actually a veg-

etable. Like onions, the raw garlic bulb you buy at the store grows in the ground and has a green stalk. Encased inside this bulb are eight to 20 cloves of garlic—the part that you peel and eat. Garlic can be eaten raw but is also often eaten sautéed or included in spreads for crackers and breads.

Garlic’s popularity as a healthy ingredient is well earned due to its high nutritional yield.

Vitamins B6 and C, iron, and potassium are just a few of the nutrients packed in garlic’s bulbs. Garlic’s singular flavor and health benefits both stem from the same nutrient: allicin. According to the Cleveland Clinic, a few small studies have indicated that when allicin is crushed or cut, it releases both a strong flavor and maximizes its antioxidants that might boost immune health, improve blood pressure, and lower cholesterol. It’s far from a superfood, but it is a flavorful additive with benefits, making it popular with both amateur cooks and herbal medicine practitioners.

To best reap these benefits, first make sure your garlic bulbs are stored in a cool, dry place. When cooking, it is best to use crushed raw garlic that is allowed to sit before being sautéed or added raw to a meal. Generally, the longer you cook garlic (or if you cook it on too high of heat), the more bitter it becomes, so finding that balance is important.

Another popular way to maximize garlic’s flavor is by roasting it in the oven. Cut the bulb of garlic in half, then wrap it in aluminum foil and bake it in the oven at 400°F for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and find that the garlic cloves easily ooze out of their peels and have an intensified, creamy and nutty flavor. Roasted garlic is an excellent addition to a charcuterie board or as a spread for your garlic bread. ■

Toum MAKES 4 TO 5 CUPS

This Lebanese garlic sauce is the holy grail of spreadable garlicky goodness. It is a simple mixture of garlic, neutral oil, lemon juice, and salt that is often drizzled over grilled chicken, shawarma, kebabs, and grilled vegetables and makes a great dip for bread, crackers, and raw vegetables.

1. Peel 1 cup (4 or 5 bulbs) garlic. (See Kitchen Skills on page 8 for a handy gadget.)

Add the garlic and a pinch of salt into a food processor and blend until well minced.

2. Slowly add 3 cups of olive oil, blending often to ensure the ingredients mix well.

Once the sauce is looking creamy, you can mince more intensely. Slowly add another cup of oil and ½ cup lemon juice into the food processor and mix well until you have a light-colored, yet spreadable mayonnaise-like sauce.

3. Place toum in the fridge overnight, so ingredients mellow together and enjoy the next day. It will keep in an airtight container up to 1 month in the refrigerator.

winter 2022 real food 17

RF_Winter22_Ingredient_7ms.indd 17

10/5/22 3:12 PM

healthy habits

Visual Cues for Portion Control Look to everyday objects to keep portion sizes in check.

COURTESY MAYO FOUNDATION FOR MEDICAL EDUCATION AND RESEARCH

R

esearch has shown that people consistently eat more food when offered larger portions. So, portion control is important when you’re trying to lose weight and keep it off.

A portion is the amount of food you put on your plate, while a serving is an exact amount of food. To get a better handle on what you’re eating, you could carry around measuring cups. Or you could use everyday objects as

reminders of appropriate serving sizes, which is what the Mayo Clinic Diet recommends.

Many foods match up to everyday objects.

For example, a medium pepper is about the size of a baseball and equals one vegetable serving. While not all foods match visual cues, this method can help you become better at gauging serving sizes and practicing portion control. Here are some visual cues to keep in mind.

18 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_HealthyHabits_3tr.indd 18

10/6/22 3:07 PM

Fruits One fruit serving is about the size of a tennis ball. For example, a small apple equals one serving, or about 60 calories.

The same is true for a medium orange.

Vegetables

PREVIOUS PAGE: BASEBALL GLOVE STEFANOT PEPPER SIWAKORN1933 THIS PAGE: APPLE ROMAN SAMOKHIN TENNIS BALL MARIUS GRAF CARROTS BRENT HOFACKER BASEBALL DANIEL THORNBERG NOODLES KOLESNIKOVSERG HOCKEY PUCK COPRID CHICKEN MOVING MOMENT CARDS PIXELROBOT MAYO TERRY BRENNAN DICE EMODPK MEAL BRENT HOFACKER

One vegetable serving is about the size of a baseball. A half cup of cooked carrots equals one serving, or about 25 calories.

The same is true for a medium tomato or bell pepper.

Carbohydrates One carbohydrate serving is about the size of a hockey puck. A half cup of whole-grain cooked pasta equals one serving, or about 70 calories. If pasta isn’t your thing, picture a slice of whole-grain bread instead.

Proteins One protein serving is no bigger than a deck of cards. A piece of cooked skinless chicken (2 to 2½ ounces) equals one serving, or about 110 calories. The same goes for a 3-ounce vegetarian burger.

Fats One fat serving is about the size of a pair of dice. For example, 2 teaspoons of regular mayonnaise equal one fat serving, or about 45 calories. Similarly, 2 teaspoons of trans fat-free margarine count as a serving, as does 1 teaspoon of butter.

Putting it all together It may take practice to become a better judge of serving sizes and portions, especially as you put entire meals together. But the more you practice, the more control you’ll have over how much you eat—and that’s key to weight loss and maintenance. ■

Always consult your health care provider if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

winter 2022 real food 19

RF_Winter22_HealthyHabits_3tr.indd 19

10/6/22 3:07 PM

ORANGE-GLAZED TURKEY BREAST WITH OLIVES AND ROSEMARY (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 26)

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 20

10/6/22 3:19 PM

Festive Foods That

Bring It Recipes to elevate your table and stretch your budget.

BY KRISTIN DONNELLY

T

he holidays often call for dishes that are a little extra special, but that doesn’t have to mean more expensive. With a few little twists, it’s easy to elevate everyday ingredients into something worthy of a party.

Another way to keep holiday entertaining costs down?

Make it a potluck! This way, you can cook one fabulous dish and receive a whole meal in return while having a chance to try your friends’ and family’s favorite recipes.

If you’re looking for something new to add to your table, these recipes take cues from crowd-pleasing holiday dishes—like roast beef, deviled eggs, and potato gratin— but pull in some fun (and maybe unexpected) flavors.

They also travel well, so they’re perfect for a potluck.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

winter 2022 real food 21

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 21

10/6/22 3:19 PM

Goat Cheese with Hot Pepper Jelly and Bacon MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Cream cheese with hot pepper jelly is a classic snack in the South. Here, a similar combination comes together with fresh goat cheese. (If you’re not a fan of goat cheese, you can use cream cheese, of course!) The holidays are a time to “gild the lily,” and bacon does just that.

8 ounces bacon, preferably not thick-cut 1 (8-ounce) log fresh goat cheese 1 cup hot or sweet pepper jelly Crackers or crostini, for serving 1. Thinly slice the bacon crosswise into ¼-inch-thick pieces. Spread them out in a skillet and set the skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until a lot of the fat has rendered and the bacon is crisp, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon pieces to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

2. Arrange the goat cheese on a platter. Pour the hot pepper jelly over the top, allowing it to run and pool down the sides. (If the jelly is stiff and you’d like to loosen it, microwave it for 20 seconds.) Just before serving, sprinkle with bacon and serve with crackers.

Cook’s Notes: ■ You can cook the bacon a day in advance and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.

■ If you’d like to create a tidier presentation, you can press the goat cheese into a small dish and pour the jelly over, so it forms a layer on top.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 250, Fat: 13g (Sat: 6g), Cholesterol: 35mg, Sodium: 490mg, Carb: 20g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 20g, Protein: 12g

GOAT CHEESE WITH HOT PEPPER JELLY AND BACON

22 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 22

10/6/22 3:20 PM

MICHELADA DEVILED EGGS

Michelada Deviled Eggs MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Inspired by the Mexican beer cocktail, these eggs are a punchy riff on classic deviled eggs. While the filling should be a bit spicy, you can always adjust the amount of hot sauce to your taste. That said, it’s the hot sauce that really makes these.

8 large eggs ¼ cup mayonnaise Zest of ½ lime plus 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1½ teaspoons red Mexican hot sauce, plus more for serving Small pinch of cayenne pepper Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. When it boils, reduce the heat to medium, so the water simmers, and carefully lower the eggs into the pot. Simmer the eggs uncovered for 11 minutes, then drain and return to the pot.

Immediately cover with ice water and let the eggs cool to room temperature, then carefully peel the eggs and cut them in half lengthwise.

2. Using a small spoon, pop the yolks out of the eggs into

a bowl or the bowl of a food processor. Using a fork or the food processor, blend the egg yolks with the mayonnaise, lime juice, Worcestershire, 1½ teaspoons hot sauce, and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and ground black pepper to taste.

3. Using a spoon or a piping bag, fill the egg whites with the filling. Add a dash of hot sauce to each and serve.

Cook’s Note: The filling can be made up to a day in advance and refrigerated separately from the whites. You can either fill the eggs just before you leave for a party and set them in muffin tins to transport or bring the eggs and filling separately and fill them at the party.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 90, Fat: 7g (Sat: 1.5g), Cholesterol: 140mg, Sodium: 140mg, Carb: 0g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 0g, Protein: 5g

winter 2022 real food 23

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 23

10/6/22 3:20 PM

Roast Beef with Green Peppercorn Dressing MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Eye of round is an often-overlooked cut of meat that can make a fabulous roast beef when thinly sliced and served medium-rare. When cooked longer, it can become tough, unless you braise it. It’s the kind of roast that tastes just as good at room temperature or even cold as it does hot. Here, the beef is served with another overlooked ingredient: brined green peppercorns, which get whisked into a balsamic vinegar dressing.

2 (2-pound) eye of round beef roasts Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon brined green peppercorns, plus 1 tablespoon of brine 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons honey 1. Season the meat generously with salt and lightly with pepper and refrigerate in a zip-top bag or covered container for 8 hours or overnight.

2. Pull the meat out of the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for about 1 hour. Pat the meat dry using paper towels.

3. Heat the oven to 350°F. 4. In a large ovenproof skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil until shimmering. Add the roasts to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until browned all over, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the roasts to a plate.

Add ¼ cup of water to the skillet and cook, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Pour the pan juices into a large bowl.

5. Return the meat to the skillet and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 115°F for medium-rare meat. Transfer the roast to a board and let stand for at least 5 minutes.

6. While the meat cooks, whisk the vinegar, peppercorns, brine, mustard, and honey into the meat juices. Gradually add the remaining ¼ cup oil while whisking to form an emulsified dressing.

7. Thinly slice the meat and serve warm or at room temperature with the dressing.

Cook’s Note: If you prefer, you can serve the roast beef cold. Simply refrigerate the cooked roasts, covered, overnight, then slice thinly before serving.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 290, Fat: 12g (Sat: 3g), Cholesterol: 105mg, Sodium: 200mg, Carb: 3g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: 40g

24 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 24

10/6/22 3:20 PM

ROAST BEEF WITH GREEN PEPPERCORN DRESSING

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 25

10/6/22 3:20 PM

Orange-Glazed Turkey Breast with Olives and Rosemary MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS | PHOTO ON PAGE 20

A turkey breast (instead of a whole turkey) is a great way to feed a small crowd. Plus, since you’re not worrying about waiting for the legs to cook, you can ensure it stays juicy. A jammy glaze creates an impressive presentation. And instead of a flour-thickened gravy, this turkey is served with its buttery pan juices, brightened with a bit of fresh citrus and chopped olives.

1 4-5 3⁄4 1 4

¼ cup apricot jam 1 orange, zested and juiced, divided 1 cup pitted castelvetrano olives, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

(9-10 pound) whole bone-in turkey breast teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper stick unsalted butter, at room temperature teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves, divided

1. Dry the turkey breast very well with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

2. In a small bowl, blend together the butter and 2 teaspoons of the rosemary. Rub the butter all over the turkey breast, including on the underside of the breast and under and on top of the skin.

3. Heat the oven to 350°F. Set the turkey breast in a roasting pan or on a baking sheet and transfer to the oven. Pour 1 cup water into the pan with the turkey. Close the oven door and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the turkey (but not near the bone) reads 145°F, about 1 hour, 30 minutes. Rotate the pan halfway through roasting and add more water if the pan looks dry.

4. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the apricot jam with the finely grated zest of the orange and the juice from half of the orange. Mix in the remaining 2 teaspoons rosemary.

5. Brush the turkey with the glaze and cook for 15 minutes, then brush with the glaze again. Cook until the skin is burnished and the thermometer reads 160°F, about 15 minutes longer.

6. Transfer the turkey breast to a work surface, leaving behind all the juices. To the pan, add the olives, juice from the remaining half of the orange, and the lemon juice to

the juices and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom and sides of the pan. Pour the turkey juices mixture into a bowl and allow to settle for 1 minute, then spoon off as much of the top layer of fat as you can. Carve the turkey breast and serve with the juice mixture.

Cook’s Note: If you prefer dark meat, swap in 4 turkey legs for the turkey breast and follow the recipe as written.

(Or you can add 2 turkey legs to the pan with the turkey breast.) Cook the turkey legs until the internal temperature reaches 165°F. Nutrition, whole recipe (per serving): Calories: 540, Fat: 28g (Sat: 12g), Cholesterol: 200mg, Sodium: 1480mg, Carb: 10g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 65g Nutrition, just turkey and glaze (per serving): Calories: 510, Fat: 25g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 200mg, Sodium: 1200mg, Carb: 9g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 65g Nutrition, just sauce (per serving): Calories: 30, Fat: 3g (Sat: 0g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 280mg, Carb: 2g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: <1g, Protein: 0g

P OTLUC K POI NTER S

If You’re the Host

■ ■ ■ ■ ■

such as sides or desserts, so you will know what to expect. Use a tool like Google Docs or SignUpGenius to keep track.

Provide plates, cups, napkins, drinks, etc., unless you ask people to bring them.

Set up your space so it flows well and guests know exactly where to put the food when they arrive.

Make your oven available and keep your kitchen as clean as possible in case people need to warm or put finishing touches on their dishes.

Have labels and markers available so people can label their dishes.

Have resealable bags and containers on hand so people can pack up leftovers.

HOST ADOBE STOCK / SEVENTYFOUR

■ Organize the “menu” by asking people to sign up to make certain types of dishes,

26 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 26

10/6/22 3:21 PM

POTATOCELERY ROOT GRATIN WITH FENNEL CREAM

Potato-Celery Root Gratin with Fennel Cream MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

A potato gratin is holiday food at its best—lush, creamy, and crowd-pleasing. Here, the potatoes are layered with celery root, which brings a mellow herbal flavor, and the cream gets infused with toasted sweet fennel seeds before cooking.

For the Fennel Cream

1½ teaspoons fennel seeds 2½ cups heavy cream 1 fat garlic clove, smashed Salt and white pepper, to taste

1. In a small skillet, toast the fennel seeds over medium heat until fragrant, about 20 seconds.

2. In a small saucepan, bring the cream just to a bare simmer, then remove from the heat. Add the fennel seeds and garlic clove and let stand for 15 minutes to allow the cream to infuse. Season lightly with salt and white pepper.

3. Using a mandoline or a very sharp knife, slice the potatoes into 1⁄8-inch-thick rounds. (Keep them in a bowl of water so they don’t discolor.) Cut the celery root into 1⁄8-inch-thick half-moon slices.

4. Heat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish.

5. Arrange one-third of the potatoes in the dish, overlapping them slightly, and season with salt and pepper. Top with half the celery root, seasoning each layer. Repeat the layering, ending with a third layer of potatoes. Strain the

For the Potatoes and Celery Root

3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled 1 large (2 pounds) celery root, peeled with a sharp knife and halved lengthwise Unsalted butter, for the pan Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cream over and around the vegetables. Cover the baking dish tightly with foil.

6. Bake for about 45 minutes, until the vegetables are almost tender when pierced with a knife. Remove the foil and bake for about 30 minutes more, until the liquid has thickened and the top is browned. Remove the gratin from the oven and let stand for 10 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

Cook’s Note: The assembled gratin can be refrigerated overnight, then baked before serving. Transport it hot in an insulated carrier.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 360, Fat: 23g (Sat: 15g), Cholesterol: 70mg, Sodium: 200mg, Carb: 34g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 6g

winter 2022 real food 27

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 27

10/6/22 3:21 PM

PHOTOS ADOBE STOCK / KRAKEN IMAGES

ROASTED CARROTS WITH DRIED APRICOTS, PISTACHIOS, AND SALTED YOGURT 28 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 28

10/6/22 3:21 PM

Roasted Carrots with Dried Apricots, Pistachios, and Salted Yogurt MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Roasted carrots get dressed up with a dusting of warm spices and sprinkles of plump apricots and crunchy pistachios. Spreading out the carrots on a bed of salted yogurt not only creates a gorgeous presentation but also provides a sauce that people can scoop onto their plates with the carrots. This is one of those substantial side dishes you could serve as more of a vegetarian main dish. Plus, it’s as good at room temperature as it is warm.

OVEN ADOBE STOCK / DMITRY ZIMIN

3 pounds real baby carrots (not bagged) or other carrots cut into 5x1-inch lengths 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon cloves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ lemon ¼ cup dried apricots (or cherries) ½ cup shelled pistachios, roughly chopped 1 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt ½ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped 1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, toss the carrots with olive oil, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, and cloves, and season generously with salt and pepper. Spread carrots out on baking sheets.

3. Roast, rotating the baking sheets halfway through and shaking the carrots, for 20 to 30 minutes, until the carrots are nicely browned and tender. Remove the carrots from the oven, squeeze the lemon juice over the carrots, and toss. Let the carrots cool slightly.

4. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the apricots (or cherries) with boiling water and let stand until plumped and cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Remove the fruit from the hot water and roughly chop.

5. In another small bowl, whisk the yogurt to loosen it and season with salt to taste.

6. Spread the yogurt on a platter and arrange the carrots on top. Scatter the sliced fruit and chopped pistachios on top, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 170, Fat: 9g (Sat: 1.5g), Cholesterol: <5mg, Sodium: 170mg, Carb: 19g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 10g, Protein: 5g ■

POTLUC K POI NTER S

If You’re the Guest ■ Ask in advance if you can use the oven if you need to

rewarm a dish.

■ If you have dietary restrictions, tell the host—if you’re

comfortable—so you can make sure you will have food that is safe for you to eat.

■ Think about how you’ll transport your dish. (You can keep hot food hot in insulated carriers.)

■ Bring your own serving utensils, if you can.

■ Take your dish with you. (Don’t leave it for the host to clean up.)

winter 2022 real food 29

RF_Winter22_FEATHolidayDinner_6tr.indd 29

10/6/22 3:21 PM

RASPBERRY ROLLS WITH GANACHE (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 32)

30 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 30

10/6/22 3:30 PM

Sweet Savory

and

Spirals Roll out layers of deliciousness from gooey cinnamon rolls to cheesy appetizers.

BY ROBIN ASBELL

F

ew things have the instant appeal of the spiral of dough and filling that is a cinnamon roll. Just think of that curled circle of comforting sweetness, and that cinnamon-y fragrance. Whether you associate it with your grandma’s kitchen or the food court at the airport, it’s irresistible.

The spiral of dough with its flavorful swirl is such fun to eat, too, as you unwind it with your fingers, exposing the melted filling. That’s why they also beg to take on other flavors beyond cinnamon and sugar.

The perfection of the spiral roll translates into all sorts of sweet and savory flavor combinations. In this collection of recipes, you can try variations from fruity and chocolaty to herbal and cheesy, and undoubtedly find

new favorites. Pumpkin spice is the flavor of the season, and the pumpkin spice rolls have a pumpkin cheesecake frosting that takes it to the next level of spicy goodness. Raspberry jam-filled rolls, dappled with chocolate chips and drizzled with chocolate ganache take the spiral a little closer to dessert status. And on the savory side, Pesto Scone Rolls make a great breakfast or appetizer—and even go well with a glass of wine. The Walnut Gruyère Rolls have enough cheese and nuts to serve as a light lunch and are delectable enough to earn a place on your holiday table. You have the option to use frozen, prepared dough in a few recipes to save some time, if you prefer. It’s easy to celebrate the spiral and try some new sweet and savory rolls this season.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

winter 2022 real food 31

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 31

10/6/22 3:30 PM

Classic Roll Dough

Raspberry Rolls with Ganache

MAKES 12 ROLLS

MAKES 12 | PHOTO ON PAGE 30

Use this basic dough to make the Classic Cinnamon Rolls and the Raspberry Rolls with Ganache.

Take your sweet rolls into decadent dessert territory with the flavor combination of raspberries and chocolate. Instead of a cinnamon filling, these are spread with raspberry jam for a fruity, colorful swirl, and you have the option to sprinkle some chocolate chips in, too, for a chocolate lover’s dream. Once baked, you’ll drizzle them with a deep chocolate ganache, creating an irresistible treat everyone will rave about.

5 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon instant-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt ¾ cup milk ¼ cup water 1 stick unsalted butter, sliced in pats 2 large eggs 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer or large bowl, combine flour, sugar, yeast, and salt and stir to mix. Insert dough hook if using the stand mixer.

2. In a small pot, combine milk, water, and butter pats and place over medium heat. Stir, taking the temperature with an instant-read thermometer often, until butter is melted and mixture is 120-130°F. 3. Turn the mixer on low and pour in the milk mixture, then add the eggs. Mix until combined, then knead for 5 minutes.

4. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover with a wet towel or plastic wrap, and put in a warm spot to rise for 1½ hours or more until doubled in size.

5. When the dough has doubled in size, punch down with your fist.

Then, pull the sides into the center and gently press into a loose ball.

6. Return to recipe instructions for Classic Cinnamon Rolls (step 4) or Raspberry Rolls with Ganache (step 3) and proceed.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 310, Fat: 9g (Sat: 5g), Cholesterol: 50mg, Sodium: 210mg, Carb: 49g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 9g, Protein: 7g

1 Classic Roll Dough (see recipe left) For the Filling

1 cup raspberry jam ¾ cup mini chocolate chips (optional) 1. Make the dough using the Classic Roll Dough recipe (see recipe left).

2. While the dough is rising, line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or butter a 9x13-inch baking pan and set aside.

3. After the dough has risen, prepare the rolls. On a floured counter, pat or roll the dough to make a 12x18-inch rectangle.

Spread the jam over the dough, leaving 1 inch bare on the edge across from you. Sprinkle with chocolate chips, if using.

4. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box below), and pinch the seam to seal. Place seam side down and use a sharp serrated knife to cut in four even cylinders, then divide each into three slices, to make 12.

5. Transfer to the prepared pan, spacing the rolls evenly. Cover the rolls with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour until puffed. Heat the oven to 375°F. 6. Bake the rolls for 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a roll

For the Ganache

4 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped ¼ cup heavy cream

registers 190°F, or until the rolls are golden around the edges. The rolls in the baking pan will take 5 minutes longer. Let cool.

7. Make the ganache: In a microwaveable bowl, combine chopped chocolate and cream. Microwave for 45 seconds, then stir, and continue microwaving in 10 second increments until melted. Let cool slightly, then drizzle it decoratively over the rolls. Chill until the ganache is set. The rolls will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Cook’s Note: For the dough, you could use 2 pounds of frozen sweet dough, thawed.

Follow package instructions to thaw in the refrigerator overnight, then proceed to roll out as in step 3.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 440, Fat: 14g (Sat: 8g), Cholesterol: 55mg, Sodium: 220mg, Carb: 73g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 31g, Protein: 8g

Jellyroll Style Tips To fill and roll your dough, shape the dough into a rectangle, then pat or roll to the dimensions in the recipe. The longer side should be parallel to the edge of the counter. Sprinkle or spread the filling over the dough as evenly as possible, leaving 1 inch of the edge of the dough farthest from you bare.

Starting with the edge closest to you, roll the dough away from you over the filling, to form a cylinder. Pinch the seam to seal, then place, seam side down, on the counter to cut into rolls.

Use a sharp, serrated knife to cut in the number of rolls directed in the recipe, holding the dough cylinder in place with your other hand.

32 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 32

10/6/22 5:19 PM

Classic Cinnamon Rolls MAKES 12

These cinnamon rolls have the perfect combination of tender, buttery dough and brown sugar-cinnamon swirl plus a sweet vanilla glaze to top it off. You have the option to bake them in a 9x13-inch baking dish for pull-apart rolls, or on a half sheet pan so they stay separate. You can fill them with raisins, as I did, or opt for your favorite nuts. Either way, the scent of these rolls as they come out of the oven will bring everyone to the kitchen.

1 Classic Roll Dough (see recipe on page 32) For the Filling

1 2 2 1⁄8 4

cup light brown sugar tablespoons all-purpose flour tablespoons cinnamon teaspoon salt tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1. Make the dough using the Classic Roll Dough recipe (see box on page 32).

2. While the dough is rising, line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or butter a 9x13-inch baking pan and set aside.

3. Prepare the filling: Combine the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt and stir to mix, then stir in the melted butter to make a thick paste. Reserve.

4. After the dough has risen, prepare the rolls. On a floured counter, pat or roll the dough to make a 12x18-inch rectangle.

1 cup raisins (or chopped walnuts or pecans) For the Glaze Frosting

2 1 2 2

cups powdered sugar teaspoon vanilla tablespoons unsalted butter, melted tablespoons whole or 2% milk

Sprinkle the filling over the dough, leaving 1 inch bare on the edge across from you.

Use your fingers to spread the paste evenly.

Sprinkle evenly with raisins (or nuts).

5. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), and pinch the seam to seal.

Place seam side down and use a sharp serrated knife to cut in four even cylinders, then divide each into three slices, to make 12.

6. Transfer to the prepared pan, spacing the rolls evenly. Cover the rolls with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for

1 hour, until puffed. Heat the oven to 350°F. 7. Bake the rolls for 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a roll registers 190°F, or until the buns are golden around the edges. The rolls in the baking pan will take 5 minutes longer. Let cool.

8. Make the glaze frosting: Combine the powdered sugar, vanilla, and melted butter and stir, then drizzle in the milk, stirring to make a pourable glaze. Make sure the rolls are cool. If you glaze the rolls while warm, it will melt into the rolls, and if you wait until the rolls are completely cooled, you can drizzle it decoratively over the rolls. These will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Cook’s Note: For the dough, you could use 2 pounds frozen sweet dough, thawed. Follow package instructions to thaw in the refrigerator overnight, then proceed to roll out as in step 4.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 550, Fat: 19g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 75mg, Sodium: 250mg, Carb: 89g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 45g, Protein: 8g

winter 2022 real food 33

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 33

10/6/22 3:30 PM

Pumpkin Spice Rolls with Pumpkin Cheesecake Frosting

PESTO SCONE ROLLS

MAKES 12

It’s pumpkin spice season, and everyone is craving the warm, comforting spices we associate with pumpkin pie. In these rolls, you’ll make your own blend of spices (or use pumpkin pie spice), and put some in the dough, filling, and even the frosting. Sweet, tender pumpkin dough is filled with a combination of brown sugar, spices, and chopped pecans for a roll that’s delicious, even without frosting—but you won’t want to skip the topping; it’s like spreading a layer of pumpkin cheesecake over the roll for even more pumpkin spice goodness.

For the Spice Mix

4 1 1 1

teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground cloves teaspoon ground ginger

For the Dough

6½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon instant-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon spice mix (from above) 1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin (not pie filling), divided 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup milk 1 large egg 1. Make the spice mix: In a small bowl, combine the cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger and stir to mix. Reserve. Line a large rimmed half-sheet baking pan with parchment paper. Reserve.

2. In a stand mixer or large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and 1 teaspoon spice mix, and stir to mix.

3. In a small pot, combine 1 cup of the pumpkin, butter, and milk, and stir over medium heat until it reaches 120-130°F on an instantread thermometer. Add the warm liquids to the flour mixture, then add the egg, stirring until mixed. Knead for 5 minutes, then scrape out into an oiled bowl. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap and place in a warm spot to rise for about 1 hour, until the dough has doubled in size.

4. While the dough is rising, make the filling.

Mix the melted butter, brown sugar, flour, and spice to make a paste. Reserve.

5. When the dough has doubled in size, punch down with your fist. Then, pull the sides into the center and gently press into a loose ball.

6. On a floured counter, pat or roll dough to make a 15x18-inch rectangle. Spread the filling over the dough, leaving 1 inch bare on the edge across from you. Sprinkle with pecans.

7. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), and pinch the seam to seal.

For the Filling

4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup light brown sugar 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon spice mix (from left) 1 cup chopped pecans For the Pumpkin Frosting

8 ¾ ½ 3 1

ounces cream cheese, softened cup canned pumpkin, from above teaspoon vanilla cups powdered sugar tablespoon spice mix (from left)

Place seam side down and use a sharp serrated knife to cut in four even cylinders, then divide each into three slices, to make 12.

8. Transfer to the prepared pan, spacing the rolls evenly. Cover the rolls with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, until puffed. Heat the oven to 350°F. 9. Bake the rolls for 25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a roll registers 190°F, or until the buns are golden around the edges. Let cool.

10. Make the frosting: In a stand mixer with the batter paddle inserted, beat the cream cheese, scraping down until completely smooth. Add the pumpkin and vanilla and beat to mix, scraping down and repeating until completely smooth. Add the powdered sugar and remaining spice mix and mix on low until combined, then raise the speed for 30 seconds or so to whip. Spread on the cooled rolls. The rolls will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Cook’s Note: For the spice mix, you could use 7 teaspoons prepared pumpkin pie spice.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 680, Fat: 24g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 280mg, Carb: 106g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 49g, Protein: 11g

Pesto Scone Rolls MAKES 8

You can skip the rising time of a yeasted dough with these scones, and they have a spiral of intensely flavorful basil pesto that makes them a savory treat to serve with wine. Plus, try with soup, a salad, or at breakfast alongside scrambled eggs.

For the Pesto

½ ½ 2 2 1 1½

cup fresh basil cup fresh parsley tablespoons pine nuts cloves garlic teaspoon salt, divided cups shredded Parmesan cheese, divided

34 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 34

10/6/22 3:30 PM

Quick-Rise Yeast Method For the fluffiest rolls in the shortest amount of time, these recipes use the quick-rise yeast method. Instead of mixing yeast with warm water to proof, you’ll mix the yeast with the dry ingredients, then warm the liquid ingredients to between 120-130°F. You’ll need an instant-read thermometer to test the temperature, and to insert in the baked rolls to make sure they have reached 190°F. If you don’t have one, it would be well worth purchasing one. They can be found for around $8 and are also an important tool for making sure meats are safely cooked.

PUMPKIN SPICE ROLLS WITH PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE FROSTING

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan For the Dough

2 2 1 6 ¾

cups all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda tablespoons unsalted butter, cold cup buttermilk

1. First, make the pesto. In a food processor bowl, combine the basil, parsley, pine nuts, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ cup Parmesan.

Process until a thick paste is formed, then scrape down and drizzle in 1 tablespoon olive oil. Process to mix. Scrape out into a small bowl.

2. Heat the oven to 375°F and lightly oil an

8-inch round cake pan and reserve.

3. Make the dough: In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and the remaining salt, mix, and then stir in ½ cup Parmesan.

4. Use the coarse holes of a grater to shred the cold butter into the flour mixture, tossing the butter shreds to coat with flour. Stir in the buttermilk, just until barely mixed, and use your hands to press and turn the mixture until all the flour is incorporated. Don’t knead.

5. Sprinkle counter with flour. Place dough on the flour and press out to make a 9x9-inch square. Sprinkle and spread pesto mixture over the dough, patting to spread evenly, leaving 1 inch bare on the side opposite you.

6. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style (see box on

page 32), ending the cylinder seam side down.

7. Use a serrated knife to divide in half, then cut each half in four even slices. Place the rolls in the pan, placing one roll in the center and arranging the rest around it.

8. Sprinkle the rolls with the remaining ½ cup Parmesan and bake for 15 minutes, until the edges are golden brown and the rolls are firm.

9. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes before serving, or cool completely and wrap tightly and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 290, Fat: 17g (Sat: 9g), Cholesterol: 35mg, Sodium: 860mg, Carb: 27g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 2g, Protein: 10g

winter 2022 real food 35

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 35

10/6/22 3:30 PM

Savory Gruyère and Walnut Rolls MAKES 12

These whole-wheat rolls, filled with tangy Gruyère and crunchy walnuts, are a light meal in themselves. With a hint of Dijon mustard and fresh sage in the spiral, you’ll crave these for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and they are worthy of being included in your holiday meal. You can also save time by using frozen whole-wheat bread dough—just remember to thaw it overnight in the refrigerator.

For the Dough

3½ 2 1 1¼ 2 2

cups whole-wheat flour teaspoons quick-rise yeast teaspoon salt cups warm water (120-130°F) tablespoons unsalted butter tablespoons honey

For the Filling

3 6 2 ½

tablespoons Dijon Mustard ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded tablespoons fresh sage, chopped cup chopped walnuts

1. Make the dough: In a stand mixer bowl or large mixing bowl, combine the whole-wheat flour, yeast, and salt. Stir to mix.

2. Warm the water to 120-130°F (use an instant-read thermometer to check) and stir in the butter and honey to melt. Using the dough hook or a sturdy spoon, stir the liquids into the flour mixture. When mixed, knead for 5 minutes. The dough should be soft; it’s OK if it’s a little sticky.

3. Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm spot for 1½ hours.

4. Heat the oven to 375°F and line a large sheet pan with parchment paper and reserve.

5. Lightly flour a counter, and pat or roll dough out to a 12x15-inch rectangle. Spread evenly with Dijon, then sprinkle with Gruyère, sage, and walnuts, leaving 1 inch bare at the side opposite you.

6. Roll up, jellyroll style (see box on page 32), tucking in any of the filling that falls out. Let the roll rest, seam side down, for 1 minute, the use a serrated knife to cut across the cylinder, dividing it into four even sections, then slicing each of those into three even rolls. Place the rolls on the sheet pan, leaving 2 inches of space between them. Loosely cover with plastic wrap, waxed paper, or a barely-damp kitchen towel. Let rise for 1 hour, until puffed.

SAVORY GRUYÈRE AND WALNUT ROLLS

7. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden brown and firm when pressed. Transfer to a cooling rack. Serve warm.

rectangle, then stack one on top of the other and press to flatten and form one solid sheet.

Let the dough relax if it becomes hard to roll.

Cook’s Note: You could use two (2-pound) loaves whole-wheat frozen bread dough in place of the dough recipe here. Thaw the dough according to package directions, then flatten each piece of dough to a 1-inch-thick

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 260, Fat: 11g (Sat: 4.5g), Cholesterol: 20mg, Sodium: 280mg, Carb: 32g, Fiber: 2g, Sugar: 3g, Protein: 9g

36 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 36

10/6/22 3:31 PM

GLUTEN-FREE CINNAMON ROLLS

Gluten-Free Cinnamon Rolls MAKES 12

Just because you are avoiding gluten doesn’t mean you can’t have a cinnamon roll! In this recipe, you build from a gluten-free all-purpose blend, which contains xanthan gum. These are baked in a muffin pan, which makes it easy to get beautiful results.

For the Dough

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, divided, plus 1 tablespoon for greasing tin 1 cup milk 5 tablespoons sugar, divided 1 tablespoon quick-rise yeast 3¼ cups Pillsbury Gluten-Free AllPurpose Flour Blend 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 large eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla

For the Filling

1 tablespoon cinnamon 3⁄4 cup brown sugar 3⁄4 cup raisins For the Glaze Frosting

2 1 2 2

cups powdered sugar teaspoon vanilla tablespoons melted unsalted butter tablespoons milk Cornstarch, for work surface

1. Get a 12-cup muffin tin and use butter to thickly grease the cups.

Reserve. Heat oven to 350°F. 2. Melt 6 tablespoons of the butter to use in the dough, and let the rest soften at room temperature.

3. Warm the milk to 110-115°F and place in a bowl or cup. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the sugar and the yeast and let bloom for 5 minutes.

4. In the bowl of a stand mixer (using the paddle attachment) or a bowl using a handheld mixer, mix the flour blend, remaining 4 tablespoons sugar, baking powder, and salt.

5. Add the yeast mixture, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla. Mix slowly until combined, then beat on high for 2 minutes.

6. Mix the brown sugar and cinnamon in a cup. Sprinkle cornstarch on a clean counter. Scrape out the dough and form into a rectangle about 12x18 inches, sprinkle with cinnamon mixture, and cover with raisins. Roll up, forming a spiral, and use a sharp, serrated knife to divide into four even cylinders, then cut each of those into three even slices. Place each into the prepared muffin cups. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let rise 1 to 11⁄2 hours, until the rolls have puffed and filled out the cups.

7. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until puffed and golden. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then run a paring knife around each roll to loosen. Place a sheet pan or large platter on top of the pan, holding tightly as you flip the two pans, inverting the rolls onto the sheet pan, and allow to cool before glazing.

8. Make the glaze: Combine the powdered sugar, vanilla, and melted butter and stir, then drizzle in the milk, stirring to make a pourable glaze. If you glaze the rolls while warm, it will melt into the rolls, and if you wait until the rolls are completely cooled, you can drizzle it decoratively over the rolls.

Cook’s Note: These rolls were created and tested with Pillsbury Gluten-Free All-Purpose Flour Blend. If a different gluten-free blend is used, results may vary.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 420, Fat: 15g (Sat: 9g), Cholesterol: 65mg, Sodium: 310mg, Carb: 69g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: 36g, Protein: 5g ■

winter 2022 real food 37

RF_Winter22_FEATRolls_7tr.indd 37

10/6/22 3:31 PM

Appy Hour Tasty small bites and a delicious bottle of wine come together for a fun and festive night.

RECIPES BY BARBARA SCOTT-GOODMAN

38 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 38

10/6/22 3:37 PM

T

here is nothing better than raising a glass to the season with a group of friends or family and enjoying some tasty food—and it doesn’t have to be a big meal. A range of appetizers paired with a complementary wine is a perfect plan for either a casual evening or a festive fete, and you can make them as easy or as involved as you wish. The pantry staple chickpeas, for example, make an easy snack when roasted, and you can have a bowl of them ready when your guests arrive to nibble on while you get drinks together. Crisp endive leaves topped with creamy goat cheese, savory walnuts, and herbs are perfect for a variety of parties, a variation on bruschetta can be a delicious twist, and the ever-popular meatballs are always a welcome heartier bite. These recipes and more by Barbara Scott-Goodman from her book “Wine Time” will help you prepare delectable apps that can be eaten in one or two bites, and with or without a wine glass in hand.

The recipes here include wine suggestions that would pair well with each of them.

Almost all food goes well with wine, and while there are so-called rules about pairing certain wines with certain foods, what matters most is that you enjoy the wine you buy and drink, says Scott-Goodman.

“I recommend that you let your palate be your guide: Use my pairing suggestions as starting points, and then try a lot of different wines with various foods until you figure out what you like,” she suggests. Wine cocktails are also easy to make as single drinks or in batches, so her recipe for Champagne Pom Fizz is also included here to add a festive note to any event. –mary subialka

winter 2022 real food 39

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 39

10/6/22 5:45 PM

“Whether gathering a crowd or treating yourself, good food and a great glass of wine raise our spirits and enhance our lives.”

—Barbara Scott-Goodman

Marinara

Pork and Ricotta Meatballs

MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Here is an all-purpose tomato sauce that is easy to prepare. It freezes well and is good to have on hand for a number of dishes. In addition to topping pasta and pizza, it makes an excellent dipping sauce for cocktail snacks, such as meatballs.

Meatballs are always very popular at gatherings, and it seems like nobody can eat just one.

Ricotta cheese is the key ingredient in this recipe because it makes the meatballs quite tender.

They’re very good to serve with marinara for dipping or as sliders.

1. In a large skillet over medium-low heat, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, sugar, and red pepper flakes and season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Increase the heat to medium and bring to a simmer, then lower the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the basil and stir. Cook for 5 minutes more. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Serve warm.

Cook’s Note: The sauce will keep, tightly covered in the refrigerator, for up to 1 week and in the freezer up to 1 month.

Nutrition (per about 1⁄3 cup serving): Calories: 50, Fat: 3g (Sat: 0g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 220mg, Carb: 6g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 1g

cup panko cup whole milk pound ground pork ounces whole-milk ricotta cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 teaspoon fines herbes or herbes de Provençe

1. In a large mixing bowl, mix together the panko and the milk and let stand for 5 minutes. Add the pork, cheeses, egg, herbs, and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper and work the mixture together with your hands until it is well incorporated.

2. Form the mixture into 30 balls that are 1 inch in diameter, and arrange them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, up to 2 hours or overnight.

3. Position an oven rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. 4. Brush the meatballs with olive oil and bake until golden and cooked through, turning once halfway through baking, about 12 minutes total. Transfer to a platter, garnish with parsley, and serve with marinara sauce, if desired.

Cook’s Notes: ■ The meatballs can be prepared and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead of time. They can also be baked and then stored in the freezer for up to 1 month. Thaw and bake them for about 25 minutes in a 425°F oven.

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish Marinara, for serving (see recipe at left; optional)

■ For delicious mini meatball sandwiches

or sliders, heat the meatballs in a large saucepan over medium heat with enough tomato sauce to cover. Once warm, spoon the meatballs into mini hamburger or slider rolls. Sprinkle with freshly grated Parmesan cheese, garnish with parsley, and serve.

Nutrition (per meatball): Calories: 60, Fat: 4g (Sat: 1.5g), Cholesterol: 20mg, Sodium: 40mg, Carb: 1g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 0g, Protein: 3g

Wine Tip

When shopping for wine, take full advantage of your wine merchant’s expertise. Most people are in the wine game because they are passionate about it and they enjoy recommending wines. They’re willing to help you find the right wine for every occasion. –B.S.G.

ICONS ADOBE / PROVECTORS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 (28-ounce) can organic peeled and crushed tomatoes 1 teaspoon sugar Pinch of red pepper flakes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ cup chopped fresh basil

1⁄3 ¼ 1 4 ¼

40 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 40

10/6/22 3:37 PM

Pairing Chianti Classico and full-bodied Zinfandel always complement red meat, and either one would be a good choice to serve with the meatballs.

PORK AND RICOTTA MEATBALLS WITH MARINARA

winter 2022 real food 41

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 41

10/6/22 3:37 PM

GOAT CHEESESTUFFED ENDIVE

Champagne Pom Fizz MAKES 1 DRINK

Is there any drink more festive than a sparkling drink made with Champagne?

Whether you’re toasting a birthday, capping off an anniversary, or celebrating the holidays, this cocktail is always a winner.

1 ounce pomegranate juice 4 ounces Champagne 1 ounce St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur Splash of sparkling water or club soda 1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds, for garnish Pour the pomegranate juice into a Champagne flute or coupe. Add the Champagne, liqueur, and sparkling water.

Stir gently to combine. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and serve.

Toppings

Variations on toppings include: ■ Orange segments, balsamic glaze; garnish with toasted nuts and

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley ■ Chopped apples; garnish with toasted nuts and orange zest ■ Chopped pears; garnish with toasted nuts and pomegranate seeds

Note: If you’re making a batch of drinks with Champagne, Prosecco, or Cava, a good rule of thumb is that two 750 mL bottles will make 10 drinks, four bottles will make 20, and so on.

■ Spoonful of plum and ginger jam or apricot preserves

Nutrition: Calories: 200, Fat: 0g (Sat: 0g), Cholesterol: 0mg, Sodium: 5mg, Carb: 15g, Fiber: 0g, Sugar: 16g, Protein: 0g

■ Chopped fresh tomatoes; garnish with pine nuts and chopped basil

■ Chopped roasted beets, balsamic glaze; garnish with toasted nuts ■ Chopped smoked salmon; garnish with drained capers, lemon zest,

and chopped dill ■ Chopped kalamata olives; garnish with red pepper flakes and

chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

42 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 42

10/6/22 3:37 PM

Pairing Full-bodied whites like Chardonnay or Viognier go well with the cheesestuffed endive.

Goat Cheese-Stuffed Endive MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Crisp endive leaves filled with a mixture of creamy goat cheese, walnuts, and fresh herbs are a perfect finger food to serve at all types of parties. This is a basic recipe, but if you like, you can sub in a variety of sweet and savory ingredients for different fillings and garnishes. Look for red Belgian endive leaves to add even more color to the platter. ½ cup goat cheese, at room temperature ¼ cup cream cheese, at room temperature ½ cup walnuts, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives, plus more for garnish 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 20-24 green and/or red Belgian endive or chicory leaves (2 or 3 heads) 1. Place the goat cheese, cream cheese, walnuts, lemon juice, chives, and parsley in a food processor, season with salt and pepper, and blend until very smooth.

Transfer to a small bowl (see Cook’s Note).

2. Spoon the mixture evenly into the endive leaves, garnish with chives (or other toppings and garnishes of your choice; see Toppings box at left), and serve.

Cook’s Note: The goat cheese mixture will keep, tightly covered, in the fridge for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Nutrition (per serving): C a l o r i e s : 1 2 0, Fa t : 1 1 g (S a t : 4 . 5 g) , Cholesterol: 15mg, Sodium: 105mg, Carb: 2g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: <1g, Protein: 5g

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 43

Grilling Bread

Bruschetta, crostini, or toasts— whatever you want to call them—are a favorite appetizer to serve for all occasions. When bread is grilled over a fire or on a grill pan or baked in the oven, its flavor and texture are enhanced, and any topping you might want to add will taste even more delicious. When preparing grilled bread, be sure to use artisanal loaves, such as ciabatta, sourdough, or baguettes— these hold up the best to grilling, and their flavor will complement the chosen toppings wonderfully.

Grill Method: Prepare a medium-hot fire for direct grilling in a charcoal barbecue or preheat a gas grill to medium-high.

Cut bread into ½-inch slices or rounds and brush each side with olive oil.

Arrange them in a single layer on the grill rack and grill, turning once, until they are golden brown, crispy, and slightly charred around the edges, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the bread to a platter and rub one side of each slice with the cut side of half of a garlic clove, if desired.

Grill Pan Method: Heat an ungreased stove-top grill pan over medium heat.

Cut bread into ½-inch slices or rounds and brush each side with olive oil.

Arrange them in a single layer on the pan and grill, turning once, until they are golden brown, crispy, and slightly charred around the edges, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the bread to a platter and rub one side of each slice with the cut side of half of a garlic clove, if desired.

Oven Method: Heat the oven to 450°F. Cut bread into ½-inch slices or rounds and brush one side with olive oil. Arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake, turning once, until golden brown and crispy, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the bread to a platter and rub one side of each slice with the cut side of half of a garlic clove, if desired.

10/6/22 3:37 PM

Pairing An Italian white, such as Pinot Grigio, or a red Chianti will complement the bruschetta beautifully.

RICOTTA, PROSCIUTTO, AND OLIVE BRUSCHETTA

44 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 44

10/6/22 3:37 PM

Ricotta, Prosciutto, and Olive Bruschetta MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Here’s a great way to serve bruschetta: Top grilled bread with creamy ricotta cheese, a chunky mixture of black and green olives, capers, lemon zest, and a slice of prosciutto.

If you prefer to make it vegetarian, simply omit the prosciutto. ¾ cup mixed olives, pitted and chopped 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon drained capers 1 teaspoon lemon zest Pinch of red pepper flakes 12 slices grilled bread 1½ cups fresh ricotta cheese 4 ounces prosciutto, thinly sliced lengthwise 1. In a medium bowl, combine the olives, olive oil, capers, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes and toss to mix well.

2. Grill bread. (See Grilling Bread box on page 43 and Cook’s Note below.)

3. Spread each grilled bread slice with some of the ricotta cheese, top with a spoonful of the olive mixture and a slice of prosciutto, and serve at once.

Cook’s Note: The grilled bread can be prepared about 1 hour ahead of time.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 300, Fat: 13g (Sat: 5g), Cholesterol: 30mg, Sodium: 960mg, Carb: 28g, Fiber: 1g, Sugar: 2g, Protein: 16g

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “WINE TIME: 70+ RECIPES FOR SIMPLE BITES THAT PAIR PERFECTLY WITH WINE” BY BARBARA SCOTT-GOODMAN © 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY JENNIFER MAY.

RF_Winter22_FEATAppyHour_6tr.indd 45

Pairing These roasted chickpeas pair well with a red, such as Merlot, or a white, such as Chardonnay.

Parmesan Roasted Chickpeas MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

It’s amazing how handy a few cans of chickpeas in the pantry can be. You can use them to make hummus or top salads, rice, and grains; plus, these versatile legumes make a great savory snack when roasted with olive oil, garlic, and a coating of Parmesan cheese.

2 ½ 3 1 ½

(15½-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided teaspoon minced garlic teaspoon paprika Pinch of cayenne pepper Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Arrange the chickpeas on a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and let them dry for about 30 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

2. Heat the oven to 400°F. 3. In a medium bowl, stir together the Parmesan, 1½ tablespoons of the oil, the garlic, paprika, and cayenne until well mixed. Pour over the chickpeas and toss well to coat.

4. Spread the chickpeas in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with the remaining 1½ tablespoons of oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Bake for 20 minutes, stir, and continue to bake until the chickpeas are crisp and golden, about 5 minutes more.

5. Remove from the oven and transfer to paper towels to drain. Let cool completely.

Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary, and serve.

Cook’s Note: The chickpeas can be made up to 4 hours in advance and can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.

Nutrition (per serving): Calories: 140, Fat: 7g (Sat: 1.5g), Cholesterol: <5 mg, Sodium: 390mg, Carb: 14g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 0g, Protein: 6g ■

10/6/22 3:37 PM

Cozy

Comforts Embrace the relaxed pace of mountain life with recipes rooted in the peaks.

RECIPES BY LIZZIE KAMENETZKY AND KELLEY EPSTEIN

W

inter can be a wonderful season of family time and meals of comforting foods. Traditional comfort food holds special importance in places like the mountains where the cold can be fierce. Certain meals might help provide a feeling of warmth and evoke memories centered on love and cheer.

Sometimes these foods can be as simple as a fresh loaf of bread or a warm pudding, both of which inspired Lizzie Kamenetzky’s book “Fireside Food for Cold Winter Nights.” She grew up spending many happy holidays in the Swiss Alps, where residents use local foods and specialties to make hearty food filled with flavor and warmth for cold days. She was taken by these delicious meals and designed the recipes in “Fireside Food” to have roots in the small mountain towns of Europe while involving a well-balanced combination of classic and modern ingredients.

“We move so fast through our lives, always rushing, never enough time to cook, to eat, to enjoy, but in the mountains, life slows down,” Kamenetzky writes in the intro to her book. “You can’t get anywhere fast in the mountains, so you might as well relax and let it wash over you.”

Those who enjoy the mountains for the winter pastime of skiing may be aware of the phrase “après-ski.” Simply meaning “after ski,” this marks the time of day when skiers leave the mountains and settle down for drinks and food with new and old friends alike. This time of day is usually when the slopes close, but Kelley Epstein believes that enjoying après shouldn’t only be for skiers, and winter is the perfect time to indulge. The title of her cookbook, “Après All Day,” says it all. It features snacks and easy meals to warm you up, and dishes perfect for a winter potluck.

Food next to a crackling fire in a snowy setting is the epitome of cozy, and the recipes from these books evoke that feeling of contentment and happiness whether your home is in the mountains or on a city street. –samantha johnson

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD FOR COLD WINTER NIGHTS: MORE THAN 75 COMFORTING AND WARMING RECIPES” BY LIZZIE KAMENETZKY ©2015 AND 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOS BY NASSIMA ROTHACKER. RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY: 65+ COZY RECIPES TO SHARE WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS” BY KELLEY EPSTEIN © 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY REN FULLER.

Zwiebelkuchen MAKES 4 SERVINGS | FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD”

This delightful onion bread (as it literally means) is something of a cross between a tart and a pizza. The soft, squidgy dough melds with the tender sweet onions and the tang of sour cream. –lizzie kamenetzky ¼ ounce fresh yeast (or ¼ ounce sachet dried yeast) ½ cup low-fat milk, just-warm, divided 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1 egg yolk For the Filling

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 pound 2 ounces (about 4 medium) onions, thinly sliced ½ teaspoon caraway seeds ⅔ cup (scant) sour cream 1 egg Sea salt 1. Line a 14x10-inch roasting pan with baking parchment and set aside.

2. Mix the yeast with 3 tablespoons of the warm milk and leave until it is frothy. Tip the flour into a bowl with the salt. Make a well in the center and add the yeast, the remaining milk, melted butter, and egg yolk. Mix until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough. Knead well on a lightly floured surface for 10 minutes then put in a clean bowl and cover with lightly greased plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size.

3. Meanwhile, melt the butter for the filling in a pan and fry the onions with the caraway seeds and a good pinch of salt over low heat for 35 to 40 minutes until really softened and golden brown. Tip into a bowl to cool.

4. Heat the oven to 400°F. 5. Roll out the dough and use to line the prepared roasting pan. Leave to rise, covered in lightly greased plastic wrap for 15 to 20 minutes.

6. Mix the onions with the sour cream and eggs. Spread over the top of the dough and leave to rise for 10 to 15 minutes.

7. Bake in the preheated oven for about 30 to 35 minutes until golden. Cool on a wire rack.

Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

46 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATCozyComforts_7tr.indd 46

10/6/22 3:41 PM

ZWIEBELKUCHEN

RF_Winter22_FEATCozyComforts_7tr.indd 47

10/6/22 3:41 PM

SCHNITZEL WITH WARM POTATO SALAD

GOULASH SOUP

RF_Winter22_FEATCozyComforts_7tr.indd 48

10/6/22 3:41 PM

Schnitzel with Warm Potato Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS | FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD”

Traditionally made with veal, schnitzel is equally delicious when made with pork or even chicken.

A schnitzel should be lovely and thin with a crisp, golden casing of crumbs. Here they are served with a classic German potato salad that has a tang of vinegar and pickles to offset the creamy dressing. –lizzie kamenetzky 1 small white loaf, preferably 1 or 2 days old 4 veal escalopes, about 4½ ounces each 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 extra-large egg, beaten 1 tablespoon heavy cream Vegetable oil, to fry 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Sea salt and ground black pepper Lemon wedges, to serve For the Potato Salad

1 3 1 3 2 2

red onion, thinly sliced tablespoons white wine vinegar tablespoon Dijon mustard tablespoons mayonnaise tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons crème fraîche A pinch of superfine sugar 12 cocktail gherkins, finely chopped 1 tablespoon gherkin liquid A few sprigs of fresh tarragon, finely chopped A small bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves finely chopped

1 pound 10 ounces waxy new potatoes, halved 1. Heat the oven to 225°F 2. Remove and discard the crusts from the loaf and whiz it in a food processor or blender to form coarse crumbs. Spread the crumbs onto a baking sheet and cook in the preheated oven for about 1 hour to dry out slowly—start checking them after 30 minutes.

Once dry, whiz again to make fine crumbs.

(You can keep any you don’t use in an airtight container for several weeks.)

3. Put the escalopes between two pieces of baking parchment or plastic wrap and bash with a meat tenderizer or rolling pin until they are as thin as possible, without tearing meat.

4. For the potato salad, put the potatoes in a pan of cold salted water and bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes until just tender.

5. Meanwhile, put the onion in a bowl with the vinegar. When the potatoes are cooked, drain them, and mix with all the remaining potato salad ingredients, including the onion and vinegar. Season well with salt and pepper and set aside.

6. Season the flour with plenty of salt and pepper and put in a shallow dish. Beat the egg with the cream and put in a second dish.

Put 3 cups of the crumbs in a third dish (or more if you need to).

7. Heat a good layer of oil in a large nonstick frying pan/skillet. Dip each of the escalopes into the flour, shaking off any excess, then coat in the beaten egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Make sure the escalopes are completely coated.

8. Add the butter to the pan, and once it is melted and foaming, add the escalopes. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side until golden.

You may need to cook them one or two at a time, depending on the size of your pan.

9. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and the warm potato salad.

Goulash Soup MAKES 6 SERVINGS | FROM “FIRESIDE FOOD”

This Hungarian dish spread into the mountains, where it is always popular in the huts and cabins as a hearty meal on the slopes and trails. There is a healthy kick of paprika with the added richness of sour cream, which helps to make this one of the most warming and comforting dishes. This is also delicious made with pork instead of beef—use a slow-cook cut such as shoulder/butt and cut it into large chunks. –lizzie kamenetzky Olive oil, to fry 3¾ ounces bacon, finely chopped 2¼ pounds braising steak or beef shin, cut into 1-inch chunks 2 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 red bell peppers, deseeded and sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 5 juniper berries, crushed 2 bay leaves 1. Heat a good layer of olive oil in a flameproof casserole or large saucepan and fry the bacon over medium heat until it starts

1 ½ 2 2 1 5 11

tablespoon sweet smoked paprika tablespoon hot paprika teaspoons caraway seeds tablespoons tomato paste tablespoon red wine vinegar cups beef stock ounces waxy potatoes, cut into chunks 2 beets, cut into chunks Sea salt and ground black pepper Freshly chopped parsley and sour cream, to serve

to color. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2. Dust the beef in the flour with plenty

of seasoning, then brown in batches over high heat in the same pan, adding more oil if necessary. Remove and set aside with the bacon.

3. Add a little more oil to the pan and add the onions and bell peppers. Fry for 10 minutes until the peppers are softened and the onions start to color. Add the garlic, juniper, bay leaves, and spices, and fry for a few minutes before adding the tomato paste, vinegar, and stock.

4. Return the beef and bacon to the pan and season well. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 2 to 2½ hours until the beef is starting to become really tender.

5. Add the potatoes and beets to the pan and simmer, with the lid off, until the vegetables are tender.

6. Stir in the parsley and serve in large, warmed bowls with generous dollops of sour cream.

winter 2022 real food 49

RF_Winter22_FEATCozyComforts_7tr.indd 49

10/6/22 3:41 PM

Savory Sausage and Cheddar Muffins MAKES 12 MUFFINS | FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY”

One of my teammates brought these crazy-delicious muffins to a potluck celebrating the end of tennis league play. I was smitten at first bite and asked for the recipe. Perfectly savory, almost biscuit-like, and yet still light, they are a staple in my kitchen. –kelley epstein 8 12 1½ 1½ ½ ¼ 1 4 1 8 ½ 1

ounces breakfast sausage cherry tomatoes cups all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon fine salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup buttermilk tablespoons unsalted butter, melted large egg ounces shredded sharp cheddar (or Swiss) cheese cup chopped green onion, white and light green parts only teaspoon coarse salt

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Line a plate with paper towels. Grease and lightly flour a standard 12-cup muffin tin.

2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage, breaking it into small crumbles with a wooden spoon, and cook until nicely browned. Remove from the heat and transfer the sausage to the paper towel–lined plate to drain.

3. While the sausage is cooking, slice the cherry tomatoes about 1⁄8 inch thick. Lay the tomato slices on a paper towel and cover with another paper towel to remove the excess moisture.

4. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, fine salt, and pepper.

5. In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk, melted butter, and egg.

6. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir just to combine—lumps are okay! Fold in the cooked sausage, grated cheese, and green onion. Take care not to overmix.

7. Divide the batter evenly among the 12 muffin cups.

8. Top each muffin with 2 or 3 tomato slices. Sprinkle with a pinch of coarse salt.

9. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let rest 10 to 15 minutes in the tin before removing and cooling on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 days or freezer up to 1 month.

SAVORY SAUSAGE AND CHEDDAR MUFFINS

Slow Cooker Ranch Chicken Chili MAKES 8 SERVINGS | FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY”

I love nothing more than an easy, prep-ahead meal, and the slow cooker gives me the ability to do just that. This creamy chili is the marriage of two family favorite recipes: enchilada suizas and ranch chicken tacos.

This is a true throw-and-go slow cooker recipe that you can prep in the morning, and by the time you come home from your morning ski or snowshoe, lunch is ready! –kelley epstein 1¼ pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (see Cook’s Notes) Half of a 1-ounce package ranch salad dressing mix ¾ cup diced sweet onion 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 (15-ounce) can corn, drained 1 (15-ounce) can great Northern beans, drained 8 ounces salsa verde 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth ¼ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature Corn chips or tortilla chips, for serving Lime wedges, for serving Fresh cilantro, for serving Chopped red onion, for serving 1. Add the chicken thighs to the crock of a slow cooker. Sprinkle with the salad dressing mix.

2. Add the onion, garlic, corn, beans, salsa, and chicken broth.

3. Cover and cook on low 4 to 5 hours, or until the chicken is cooked through and shreds easily. It will literally almost fall apart when done.

4. Transfer the chicken to a large plate. Shred the meat and return it to the slow cooker.

5. In a small bowl, mix the heavy cream with the cornstarch. Stir until the cornstarch dissolves. Stir the cornstarch mixture and the cream cheese into the chili. Cover and cook on low for 30 minutes more, or until the cream cheese is melted and the chili is creamy.

6. Serve with bowls of chips, lime wedges, cilantro, and red onion for everyone to choose from!

Cook’s Notes: ■ Chicken breasts will work if you prefer, but thighs will have more flavor and won’t be as dry.

■ Any green enchilada sauce or salsa will work here.

SLOW COOKER RANCH CHICKEN CHILI

50 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATCozyComforts_7tr.indd 50

10/6/22 3:41 PM

Cast-Iron Tortilla Pizza Four Ways MAKES ONE 12-INCH PIZZA | FROM “APRÈS ALL DAY”

If you like thin, crispy pizza crust, then you’ll love these. My favorite is the margherita; my oldest loves the ham and pineapple, and my husband and youngest love the classic cheese. So simple to make, these get gobbled up faster than I can produce them!

NOTE: My boys usually eat one and a half to two of these depending on how hungry they are. Because I have only one cast-iron pan, we cut them up and eat these family-style as they come out of the oven!

–kelley epstein

CLASSIC CHEESE PIZZA

1 1 ¼ ½

teaspoon olive oil (12-inch) flour tortilla cup marinara or pizza sauce cup shredded whole-milk mozzarella

1. Set the oven to broil.

2. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. Once shimmery, spread the oil around the skillet with a paper towel to absorb any excess oil. Put the tortilla in the center of the skillet. Top the tortilla with the marinara sauce, spreading it all the way to the edges. Sprinkle evenly with the mozzarella cheese. Cook for about 2 minutes, just until the underside of the tortilla is brown and crispy. Be careful because it can burn quickly!

3. Put the skillet under the broiler and cook for 60 to 90 seconds, or until the cheese is melted and bubbly and the tortilla starts to brown at the edges.

4. Remove from the oven and transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes before cutting into eighths. Serve immediately.

CAST-IRON TORTILLA PIZZA FOUR WAYS

Nutrition Information: “Fireside Food” Goulash Soup (per serving): Calories: 440, Fat: 19g (Sat: 7g), Cholesterol: 110mg, Sodium: 880mg, Carb: 27g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 11g, Protein: 41g

MARGHERITA PIZZA

1 Classic Cheese Pizza (recipe above) ½ Roma tomato, thinly sliced 2 basil leaves, torn into small pieces Pinch of coarse salt 1. Assemble the pizza as directed for the classic cheese pizza.

2. Top the cheese with the sliced tomato and torn basil. Cook as directed. When you remove the pizza from the oven, sprinkle with salt.

HAM AND PINEAPPLE PIZZA

1 Classic Cheese Pizza (recipe above) 2 slices deli ham, cut into bite-size pieces 2 tablespoons thinly sliced canned pineapple chunks Reduced balsamic vinegar, for drizzling 1. Assemble the pizza as directed for the classic cheese pizza.

2. Top the cheese with the ham and pineapple. Cook as directed.

Finish with a drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar.

PEPPERONI PIZZA

1 Classic Cheese Pizza (recipe above) 8 pepperoni slices 1. Assemble the pizza as directed for the classic cheese pizza.

2. Top the cheese evenly with the sliced pepperoni.

Cook as directed. ■

Zwiebelkuchen (per serving): Calories: 470, Fat: 21g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 140mg, Sodium: 350mg, Carb: 61g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 19g, Protein: 12g Schnitzel with Warm Potato Salad (per serving): Calories: 900, Fat: 36g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 205mg, Sodium: 1180mg, Carb: 68g, Fiber: 5g, Sugar: 11g, Protein: 46g “Après All Day” Savory Sausage and Cheddar Muffins (per serving): Calories: 260, Fat: 12g (Sat: 5g), Cholesterol: 80mg, Sodium: 160mg, Carb: 20g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 4g, Protein: 20g

Ranch Chicken Chili (per serving): Calories: 230, Fat:

16g (Sat: 8g), Cholesterol: 55mg, Sodium: 660mg, Carb: 14g, Fiber: <1g, Sugar: 2g, Protein: 9g Cast Iron Tortilla Pizza Four Ways (per each whole pizza) Classic: Calories: 560, Fat: 25g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 45mg, Sodium: 1220mg, Carb: 60g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 21g Margherita: Calories: 570, Fat: 25g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 45mg, Sodium: 1230mg, Carb: 63g, Fiber: 4g, Sugar: 7g, Protein: 22g Ham and Pineapple: Calories: 620, Fat: 26g (Sat: 11g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 1760mg, Carb: 64g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 8g, Protein: 29g Pepperoni: Calories: 640, Fat: 32g (Sat: 14g), Cholesterol: 60mg, Sodium: 1480mg, Carb: 61g, Fiber: 3g, Sugar: 5g, Protein: 24g

winter 2022 real food 51

RF_Winter22_FEATCozyComforts_7tr.indd 51

10/6/22 3:41 PM

F I N DI NG

e t s a T Real T he

O

M

of

EXIC

52 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATChef_5tr.indd 52

10/6/22 3:44 PM

Rick Martínez’s journey of a lifetime brings him back to “Mi Cocina.” BY QUINTON SKINNER

A

sk him about the word “authentic” and Rick Martínez, author of “Mi Cocina: Recipes and Rapture from My Kitchen in Mexico,” takes exception to the term when applied to particular recipes or cooking techniques from various global cuisines.

“I think that the idea of authenticity is an American construct that originated from trying to market historically non-white food to white audiences,” Martínez says. “Over the years, us Americans have been taught to look for cookbooks that are the most authentic, with the idea that there’s but one way to correctly prepare a dish. The reality is that in Mexico and other countries, if I invite 10 people over to my house today and ask them all to bring the same dish, you’ll get 10 different versions that are all incredibly delicious and reflect the personality and the style and the flair of the cooks who made them.”

It’s this eclectic vision as applied to Mexican cuisine that animates his recently released debut cookbook, “Mi Cocina,” and affords home cooks the opportunity to experiment with dishes that go far beyond the tacos and fajitas that might already be in their wheelhouse. Just as no single cookbook could claim to represent the scope of American cuisine without including both New Orleans jambalaya and New England clam chowder, Martínez breaks down the food of Mexico into eight regions, from Baja, California, to the Yucatan Peninsula.

Martínez hardly took a hands-off approach to compiling the material that went into his book.

“Mi Cocina” is the product of an epic 586-day road trip he took all through Mexico in a used cherryred Nissan Versa sedan. Starting in October 2019, he traveled to all 32 Mexican states, 156 cities and towns, and covered more than 20,000 miles.

Everywhere he went, he sought out and connected with local cooks.

“I’d ask the cooks a single question: ‘Out of everything you make, what do you like best?’”

Martínez writes in the book. “With this as my criterion, 99.9% of what I ate was delicious. Out of the countless dishes I got to try this way, I selected a hundred of my favorites and created my own interpretation of each, not as an archetype or a be-all and end-all ‘best’ version, but as a highly personalized love letter to that dish, with my own unique sazón, of course—my personal flair and signature that makes these dishes my own.”

The result is a cookbook of impressive breadth and variety, with basic instruction on stocking the kitchen with the staples of Mexican cooking along with make-your-own tortilla recipes. Home cooks can sample delights such as a sumptuous Albóndigas en Chipotle (herb and cheese meatballs in smoky sauce) or Mole Amarillo con Chochoyotes (chicken and corn dumplings in a velvety chile sauce) from Oaxaca (see

the recipe on page 54), and Burritos de Chilorio (braised pork, avocado, and cheese in toasted tortillas) from northern Mexico.

Writing “Mi Cocina” entailed a long physical journey in that Nissan—which he still owns, parking it outside the home in Mazatlán he settled into in 2020 and shares with his rescue dog, Choco. It was also part of a profound personal journey for Martínez, weaving together threads of his own story and that of his family, and how food and cooking have been thematic constants in his life.

Martínez is a third-generation Mexican American, born and raised in Texas. Although he has said he was viewed as a “brown kid,” he had never gone farther into Mexico than border towns. His parents generally tried to blend in with American culture, and when he was growing up, his mother explored the terrain of Betty Crocker-style cooking—he describes memories of such dishes as chicken-fried steak and salmon croquettes.

Still, he recalls spending a good deal of time with his mother watching cooking shows growing up. Among them were famous programs such as Diana Kennedy’s and “Mexico: One Plate at a Time” with Rick Bayless. Today, he describes his fascination with those Mexican-cooking icons as a “love-hate relationship.”

“Now I know that this desire was masking a deeper one: the desire to understand myself,” Martínez writes. “[A] British woman (Kennedy) and Rick Bayless, a white man from Oklahoma, got to represent the culinary diversity of Mexico while my Mexican American family tried to enculturate with meatloaf and Chef Boyardee.”

Today, Martínez credits this feeling of remembered resentment with an acknowledgment that friction underneath the surface of his youth truly flowered in the self-discovery that led to “Mi Cocina.”

“Those programs gave me a glimpse of this world and this culture. I hadn’t understood that a piece of my heritage had been lost when my family came from Mexico more than 100 years ago,” Martinez says. “It also –r ick m a rt í n e z inspired me to write this book. I had always wanted to learn more and to understand where I came from. I had made this declaration as a 19-year-old boy that I wanted to be like Diana Kennedy and travel this country and know this food.”

While he was always attracted to the world of food and cooking, in his early adulthood his parents pointed him toward getting what he has called a “real” degree (in European history and Spanish history

PORTRAIT REN FULLER

“I want you to make this food. It’s not an exact replica of anything I ate anywhere. It’s the food I enjoyed eating the most as created for American home cooks. It’s easy to make with ingredients you can find in the grocery store with equipment you already own.”

winter 2022 real food 53

RF_Winter22_FEATChef_5tr.indd 53

10/6/22 3:45 PM

Mole Amarillo con Chochoyotes

Chicken and corn dumplings simmered in a velvety chile sauce MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

I love this dish because of the chochoyotes, which are masa dumplings with a dimple in them that holds onto the mole. Growing up in Texas, my mom made chicken and dumplings when it was cold and dreary out, and it was like getting a hug and kiss from her. This dish could be the Mexican comfort equivalent with chicken, a rich and thick, albeit spicy stew, and soft maíz dumplings cooked in that rich bright, spicy, and slightly sweet mole.

–rick martínez For the Chochoyotes

1 cup harina de maíz, such as Bob’s Red Mill Masa Harina 1 tablespoon rendered lard or unsalted butter ¼ teaspoon Morton kosher salt For the Mole Amarillo

MOLE AMARILLO CON CHOCHOYOTES

at the University of Texas at Austin), which led to years working in advertising and marketing. Eventually he graduated from the French Culinary Institute (now Institute of Culinary Education) in New York, then worked as a cook at ABC Kitchen and a food stylist with the Food Network before he moved into food writing and ended up as a senior editor at Bon Appétit magazine. In 2020, however, he resigned from the popular “Test Kitchen” video series along with other creators alleging inequal pay for staff and contributors of color. It was a major step into the unknown.

“I think that we Americans believe you don’t walk away from money, from opportunity, from security,” Martínez says of that time.

“But the reality for me is that at that moment, I was not happy, and I was tired of trying to perform for people who didn’t necessarily really want my content at their publication. For my own sanity, I decided to walk away.”

In that moment, the COVID-19 pandemic was creating massive uncertainty. Also, the very day Martínez signed the papers to close

3 large chilies chilhuacles amarillos or chilies guajillos, stemmed and seeded (see Editor’s Note) 2 tablespoons rendered lard, olive oil, or vegetable oil 4 (2.2 pounds) whole chicken legs ½ medium white onion, chopped 2 large fresh yellow chilies güeros/ caribes, banana, wax, or bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 3 medium tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and chopped

the deal on his house in Mazatlán, the story of him and several of his colleagues leaving Condé Nast broke in The New York Times.

“I was thinking, ‘oh my God, what have I done?’” he recalls. “I had zero income and no prospects on the horizon. It could have been a huge mistake, but in that moment, I was really happy. I had started to realize that dream of myself from when I was a 19-year-old boy: my Mexican kitchen, going to the market for fresh produce and protein from local farmers, the handmade clay ceramic plates and dishes that I had collected. That was fulfillment for me.”

That vision—from watching those cooking shows about Mexico to feeling a centuries-old heritage calling him to the country of his ancestors—carries Martínez into new endeavors. He’s a regular contributor to The New York Times food section and hosts a companion video series to “Mi Cocina,” as well as “Sweet Heat” and “Pruébalo” on YouTube. He also teaches live weekly cooking classes for the Food Network Kitchen and cohosts a podcast.

“I think, honestly, when you’re happy doing what you do, people

54 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_FEATChef_5tr.indd 54

10/6/22 3:45 PM

“J ust remov e the restrictions of the idea of authenticity from yourself. J ust hav e fun with it.”

–r ick m a rt í n e z 6 2¼ 1 1 ½ 4 1 1 1 3

2

1½

MOLE AMARILLO REN FULLER

½ 1

garlic cloves, finely grated teaspoons Morton kosher salt teaspoon black peppercorns teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican teaspoon cumin seeds allspice berries whole clove hoja santa leaf or ¼ cup each mint and cilantro leaves dried bay leaf cups homemade chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock (6-inch) baked tostadas de maíz (corn tortillas), broken into small pieces (see Cook’s Note) pounds summer or winter squash (such as zucchini or butternut), peeled if necessary, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces pound green beans, ends trimmed medium chayote or large Yukon Gold potato, peeled (and seeded if using chayote) and cut into 1-inch pieces

1. Make the Chochoyotes: In a medium bowl, mix the corn masa flour, lard, salt, and ¾ cup warm water until combined. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to allow the masa to hydrate.

2. Make the Mole Amarillo: Meanwhile, soak the chilies for the mole: In a large saucepan

over high heat, bring the chilies chilhuacles amarillos (or chilies guajillos) and ½ cup water to a boil. Cover the pot, remove from the heat, and let sit until the chiles have softened, for 30 minutes. Transfer the chile mixture to a blender and puree until completely smooth.

Set aside.

3. To shape the chocoyotes, scoop tablespoon-size portions of masa and roll into balls. Gently press your thumb into the middle of the ball to create a large and deep dimple, then transfer to a sheet pan and repeat with the remaining masa. Loosely cover with plastic wrap until ready to cook.

4. In a large heavy pot over medium-high, heat the lard. Working in batches if necessary, cook the chicken, turning once, until browned on both sides, for 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

5. To the same pot, add the onion, chilies güeros, tomatillos, garlic, salt, peppercorns, oregano, cumin, allspice, clove, hoja santa, and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until the vegetables are tender but just before they start to brown, for 6 to 8 minutes. Add the stock, tostadas, and reserved chicken. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, tender, and falling off the bone, for 35 to 45 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a medium bowl and let cool slightly.

gravitate toward it,” Martínez says of his work today. “My popularity soared exponentially when I finally started to act like me and not the person others wanted me to be.”

It has been a long journey—that old Nissan Versa has seen its odometer turn over once, and now has about 120,000 miles on its new cycle—but for Martínez, it’s meant to be shared. Don’t call what he’s doing “authentic,” but all his creative enterprises are definitely meant for anyone to enjoy.

“Going back to that idea of authenRECIPE AND PHOTOS FROM ticity, one reason “MI COCINA: RECIPES AND RAPTURE FROM MY people are scared KITCHEN IN MEXICO” BY RICK MARTÍNEZ © 2022 of different cuisines REPRINTED WITH is because they feel PERMISSION FROM CLARKSON POTTER, AN like there’s going IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE. PHOTOS to be something in © 2022 BY REN FULLER. the way,” he says.

6. Working in batches, carefully add the chile mixture and the liquid to a blender and puree until completely smooth. Transfer the mole to a large bowl.

7. Rinse and dry the pot, then return the mole to the pot and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Add the squash, green beans, and chayote and cook until almost cooked through, for 10 to 15 minutes.

8. Nestle the chicken into the pot and gently add the chochoyotes. Cook until the chochoyotes float to the top and are cooked through, for 5 to 10 minutes.

Editor’s Note: If chilhuacles amarillos or guajillos are not available, the pasilla pepper would be the closest substitute, and then the ancho pepper.

Cook’s Note: To bake the tostadas de maíz (corn tostadas), arrange a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 450°F. Brush both sides of 2 (6-inch) corn tortillas with 1 teaspoon vegetable oil per tortilla. Season with kosher salt and arrange on a sheet pan. Bake the tortillas until they’re golden brown in spots and crisp, about 10 minutes. Let cool before serving.

“Either because they can’t find an ingredient at their local store and don’t want to pay $50 on Amazon for it, or because a technique feels really scary.”

Don’t be scared, Martinez says. “I want you to make this food. It’s not an exact replica of anything I ate anywhere. It’s the food I enjoyed eating the most as created for American home cooks. It’s easy to make with ingredients you can find in the grocery store with equipment you already own.”

Everyone is looking for a sense of discovery, after all, whether it comes from our past, our sense of possibility, or from the flavors in our kitchens.

“So I think: just remove the restrictions of the idea of authenticity from yourself,” Martínez says. “Just have fun with it. Use a different dried chili. Change the pork recipe into a vegan recipe. Use beef instead of chicken or zucchini instead of pumpkin. Use the ingredients you like, have fun, make these recipes your own—and I think you’ll learn to be an even better cook.” ■ winter 2022 real food 55

RF_Winter22_FEATChef_5tr.indd 55

10/6/22 3:45 PM

pairings

TOP TO BOTTOM:

GRASSHOPPER, SUGAR COOKIE MARTINI, MUDSLIDE

Liquid Dessert Sweet cocktails deliciously top off any celebration.

BY MARY SUBIALKA PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

R

elax with a spirited sweet after dinner this holiday season. Dessert cocktails can stand in for sweets, or try these drinks alongside chocolate candies and cookies such as classic decorated sugar varieties, gingerbread, snowball cookies, and more. Shake things up and also sip these while enjoying the traditional yule log cake, cheesecake, and other goodies, and experiment with your favorite pairings.

Grasshopper This classic creamy after-dinner treat is like a chocolatemint cookie in a glass. It’s said New Orleans restaurant bar owner Philibert Guichet created it in his French Quarter establishment, Tujague, in 1918 and went on to win second prize in a noteworthy New York cocktail competition with this drink. It then gained popularity during the 1950s and ’60s.

To a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add 1 ounce green crème de menthe liqueur, 1 ounce white crème de cacao, 1 ounce heavy cream, and 1 ounce milk. Shake and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a mint leaf.

Sugar Cookie Martini Vanilla vodka, amaretto, and Irish cream combine to create flavors of the holiday favorite cookie. Deck the glass with sprinkles and an optional dip in frosting first for an extra sweet and festive boost.

Prepare a cocktail glass by either dipping the rim in Irish cream or spreading prepared vanilla frosting around the rim, then dip the rim in your choice of sprinkles and set aside. To a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add 1½ ounces vanilla vodka, 1½ ounces Irish cream liqueur, 1 ounce amaretto liqueur, and a splash of whole milk or cream, if desired. Shake and strain into the prepared glass.

Mudslide The Irish cream adds richness and a little spice to this dessert in a glass that tastes like a milkshake for grownups.

Drizzle either 1 ounce melted dark chocolate or chocolate syrup inside a martini cocktail glass or rocks glass along the rim and set aside. To a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add 1 ounce vodka, 1 ounce coffee liqueur (such as Kahlúa), and 1½ ounces Irish cream liqueur. Shake and strain into the prepared glass—either over ice cubes or without, depending on preference. Garnish with chocolate crumbles or shavings, if desired. ■ 56 real food winter 2022

RF_Winter22_Pairings_4ms.indd 56

10/5/22 3:15 PM

IS YOUR MARKETING CAMPAIGN UP IN THE AIR?

we can help.

Every business needs to deploy effective marketing campaigns to reach and convert customers.

Adding digital tactics to your marketing will increase touch points and combining it with traditional media like print will increase your ROI. CONTACT US TODAY! TAMMY GALVIN, Publisher tgalvin@greenspring.com • 612-371-5869

RF_Winter22_Ads_National.indd 3

10/7/22 9:05 AM

©2006 Unilever

SAUCE SO GOOD, ITALIAN CHEFS WISH WE’D DISAPPEAR.

The perfect blend of tomato,100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.

RF_Winter22_Ads_National.indd 4 REALFOOD.Spring18_FP Cover Ads.indd 3

10/7/22 9:05 AM 1/8/18 9:35 AM