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MELBOURNE

ISSUE 18

FREE


22 YEARS AS THE BENCHMARK IN QUALITY CAKES...

After 22 years, Mark’s Quality Cakes remains the benchmark for quality, taste and consumer brand recognition in the competitive Victorian hospitality market. As a business, we have resisted the current theme of mass product processing and we continue to use quality ingredients in our proven products. We know that diners are attracted to the look of a cake in the first instance, but its the taste experience that will leave the diner with a lasting impression, if the cake experience is enjoyable, diners will enquire with the venue “who made that cake”?

In the current economic climate diners have become even more discerning about how they spend their disposable income on their dining experience and expect even more quality from the venues they visit for the money they spend. Mark’s Quality Cakes is proud to present 26 varieties of small 2.5” and large 3.5’’ individual cakes, all made with the same passion, quality and finishing of our large dessert cake ranges.

All individual cakes pictured are 3.5”

If you are a café, restaurant, pub or club operator, please call 9397 4677 for a free sample pack of our small and large individual cakes.

Tony Waldner General Manager / Co-owner E tony@marksqualitycakes.com.au M 0425 721 995 T (03) 9397 4677 F (03) 9397 4666 Marks Quality Cakes Unit 10, 1 Akuna Drive, Williamstown Vic 3016

www.marksqualitycakes.com.au


Gram magazine is a free monthly publication

Melbourne strips and venues in Melbourne’s CBD and inner city

dedicated to promoting this exciting and

suburbs, our readers can enjoy the magazine over a meal, a coffee,

diverse food culture that Melbourne has

a drink or a snack.

become renowned for.

And while the author of each featured blog has their own unique

Each issue of Gram features a compilation

style and flair, one thing that remains constant is that they all seek

of food and drink based blogs that have

to put a positive spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene.

been taken from the blogosphere and

We thank all the bloggers that have been involved in this issue

published in magazine format for our

and look forward to growing our relationship with members of the

readers to enjoy. By utilising Microsoft® Tag

blogging community.

technology, readers can quickly and easily switch between print and web, thus providing a solid interaction between these two

This month

media platforms.

Gram has gone a little citrusy this month, with zesty green

Gram magazine provides you with a snapshot of articles, opinions

limes taking over the front cover. Inside, feast your eyes on

and reviews that have been published online by local food

reviews of venues including Sardine in Armadale, Blue Moose

bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.

Café in South Yarra, Dolcetti in West Melbourne and Pope Joan in

As the magazine is distributed to over 1000 outlets in prominent

East Brunswick.

Danielle Gullaci, Editor

GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled.

HOW TAGS WORK GRAM’s chosen code system is the Microsoft® Tag platform. The Tag App is free of cost, simple to use and enables quick access to links. To get it, it takes a simple app download on a phone* with a camera and web access.

1.

Download Microsoft® Tag Reader A) From your mobiles App Store

2.

or B) From http://gettag.mobi

SCAN TAG Open the app, scan the Tag codes featured in GRAM within the camera’s viewfinder. The link will then be opened in the phone’s web browser.

*For a list of compatible phones visit http://tag.microsoft.com/resources/mobile-support.aspx

FOLLOW US!

Facebook: GRAM Magazine

Twitter: @grammagazine

From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and keep in touch with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by John Murphy. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content. Editor: Danielle Gullaci Email: danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au Group Sales Manager: Brad Buchanan Phone: 0413 672 403 Email: brad.buchanan@primecreative.com.au

Advertising sales: Olivia Petrolo Phone: 0431 145 883 Email: olivia.petrolo@primecreative.com.au Tyson Hunter Phone: 0425 145 806 Email: tyson.hunter@primecreative.com.au

Art Director: Joel Parke Design: Michelle Weston, Blake Storey, Alice Ewen, Karen Sloane, Sarah Doyle Head office Prime Creative Media Pty Ltd 11-15 Buckhurst Street South Melbourne VIC 3205 Phone: 03 9690 8766 Fax: 03 9682 0044

WANT your blog TO BE FEATURED IN GRAM? SEND A LINK OF YOUR FOOD OR DRINK BLOG TO danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au


SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Sardine (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

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Sardine 15 Morey Street, Armadale. Ph: 9500 9444 Words and photos by The Chommery

About The Chommery The Chommery is creating a special place that people may visit to learn about dining SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

in Melbourne and hopefully the world. My goal is to continually sample all cuisines on offer, share my experiences accordingly and ultimately be a resourceful guide that aids people to prosper in their eating careers.

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

www.thechommery.com

Hidden away in Armadale’s backstreets lies a very small café which goes by

decided it will take the traditional approach of good, consistent coffee with

the name of Sardine. I cannot tell you for certain, but I do believe that the

no fancy bells or whistles. They are doing an excellent job!

name was employed because of the size of the premises. Let me be the first to tell you not to be fooled by the size of this fine establishment, because this lil’ fish really packs quite a punch. You can locate this little treasure by following the dated King’s Arcade walkway off High Street or alternatively via Morey Street which can be accessed via both Kooyong and High Street. If you need further directions, get a friendly local to point you in the direction of Armadale train station

Most of the sugary delights change all the time, which is great for me as I will always have a different treat with my morning coffee. FYI the chocolate spotted brioche (top plate) is heavenly.

which is located but a stone’s throw away from Sardine. Chipotle baked beans, with Tarago fetta, and a fried egg ($15.00) – This dish is With a mere 24 seating capacity divided equally in and out, you can decide if

one of Sardine’s most popular. From my recollection it has been on the menu

you would prefer to watch train commuters go back and forth to the station

since this shop opened over two years ago. Although the menu regularly

or discuss recipes, movies or restaurants with the likable staff running this

changes I agree with Beilby that the customer favourites need to stay on.

fish. At the helm is Piers Beilby, a fine specimen that has had food and cafés

This breakfast option is always beautifully presented, and that egg on top

running in his blood for as long as he can remember. He is the eldest son

of the serving dish looks so good it almost looks fake. The beans weren’t as

of Melly Beilby, who many locals know as the creator and owner of Prahran

fiery as I would like – rather they were at a mild spice level. The little bits of

institution Spoonful. Sardine is the third venture from the Spoonful empire

toast work well as dipping spoons. Mix the Meredith goat’s cheese cubes as

and has a strong focus on premium ingredients and fresh food.

they melt on the warm beans – a great option.

As you enter, it is hard to miss the beautiful display of sweets, with the

5 grain porridge with baked rhubarb ($10.00) – For all the porridge fans out

majority baked on board the mother ship at Spoonfull and others carefully

there you will love this. It is made to order and can be prepared with milk,

sourced from local bakers and cake specialists. Most of the sugary delights

water or soy – excellent customer service I must say. The porridge is thick

change all the time, which is great for me as I will always have a different

and generously portioned. Add the extra grains of goodness and you have a

treat with my morning coffee. FYI the chocolate spotted brioche (top plate)

super breakfast. The slivered almonds and the sweet rhubarb make for nice

is heavenly.

toppings. Further, ask for the maple syrup on the side and drizzle to your heart’s desire.

From left, we have a soy cappuccino ($3.80) and a skinny latte ($3.50). The highly skilled barista works her magic behind a two group Wega. Using beans

Breakfast set – consists of a boiled egg, toast with raspberry jam and a

sourced from Genovese’s signature house blend, the coffees here are superb.

side of rhubarb and Meredith yoghurt in rosewater syrup ($12.50). What

They have not gone down the trendy road of investing an arm and a leg into

an interesting combination of sweet and savoury for breaky. Neverthless,

a Synesso or sourcing Tahiti single origin beans (yet!). The crew here has

customers are enjoying it and we did too. We described it as being similar

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Scrambled are the bomb! The Sardine scrambled are light, bright and fluffy and totally scrumptious. Add half an avocado (generous) and a pile of fat-juicy-succulent pieces of freshly prepared chorizo and you’re in a very special place.

cafés and restaurants that we are all aware of. They are so damn crowded and loud. What was thought to be a pleasant experience can be rushed, stressful and tense. Hidden away from all that chaos is Sardine Café in Armadale. A spot where you can sit, chill and sip your coffee while you read the Daily Bugle in a very pleasant and relaxing location. Not to mention, you never get pushed to leave your table. The combination of years of experience and fresh premium produce blended into each dish coming out of the tiny kitchen is amazing. Sardine is one of The Chommery’s favourite cafés in Melbourne.

to a breakfast buffet plate, you take a little of this and a little of that and

Find this little fish and see for yourself.

make that combo you dream of. This option allows you to have the best of both worlds. Two pieces of toast meant one for egg and one for jam. The sweet rhubarb was a delicious top off to the meal. Highly recommended for the undecided. Scrambled eggs ($9.50), with avocado ($3.50) and chorizo ($4.00) – Sardine offers scrambled, fried and boiled eggs. Yes, you read correct, they do not offer poached eggs. You can breathe again, it is okay. You do not have to order them each time you order eggs. Scrambled are the bomb! The Sardine scrambled are light, bright and fluffy and totally scrumptious. Add half an avocado (generous) and a pile of fat-juicy-succulent pieces of freshly prepared chorizo and you’re in a very special place. The lunch menu starts from around 12:00pm. Daily changing soups, tarts

Hidden away from all that chaos is Sardine Café in Armadale. A spot where you can sit, chill and sip your coffee while you read the Daily Bugle in a very pleasant and relaxing location. Not to mention, you never get pushed to leave your  table. The combination of years  of experience and fresh premium produce blended into each dish coming out of the tiny kitchen is amazing.

and baguettes are available alongside a range of seasonally changing dishes. The green bean salad with goat’s cheese and marinated artichokes is a

Cuisine: Café fare

ridiculously good chomming choice. If you have had it before, you know what

Noise: Gentle background music and locals chatting

I’m talkin’ about!

Suitable for: All – kid friendly Dress: As you desire

We live in such a fast paced world with less and less time to stop and take in

Price: $15 – $20 per head

the moment and occasionally unwind. It is too often I visit some of the A-lister

My View: An excellent café in the backstreets of Armadale

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Holgate brewhouse (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

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Holgate Brewhouse 79 High Street, Woodend. Ph: 5427 2510 Words and photos by TipplesBeer

About TipplesBeer TipplesBeer tells the stories of author Leon Sammartino’s beer soaked adventures in Melbourne’s craft beer scene. He can be found propping up the bar at any number of inner city pubs. TipplesBeer rates beer by glass size – from best to worst that would be jug, pint, schooner, pot or butchers.

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

www.tipples.wordpress.com

There is a lot to like about a trip to Holgate brewery. It is located in ‘The

stepping onto the platform at Woodend, mere metres from the Keating’s

Country’ which is a place that inner city people talk about escaping to

Hotel, home of Holgate.

like it has some magical recuperative powers. The hotel is a pleasant place; sprawling would be a good description. Of course going to ‘The Country’ for most of the inner city crew means loading up your car with an iPad, laptop, mobile phone, hair dryer and

There are four or five different rooms where you can choose to drink

designer straw hat (that is just the right balance of jaunty and stylish)

your beer, including a restaurant with some truly outstanding food – the

and heading down to Portsea to see the same people you see in the city,

beef pie made with Temptress porter was a corker, and dessert was a

sit in cafés that are a facsimile of the ones you frequent in South Yarra

step up again. And just to prove that this is a working brewery you can

and drink the same ‘imported’ beer at the Portsea Pub that you drink at

go have a look at it, placed as it is behind glass on the way to the toilets,

the Royal Saxon.

there are the usual array of stainless steel tanks.

Well I’m here to tell you to put down those imported beers, throw

Unfortunately I was there on a Sunday so there was no activity behind

away your hat (or keep it on I don’t care) and go west (well north

the glass, but I do like the idea of watching the brewers work like they

west). Better still you can throw away the car keys too. Just jump on

are zoo exhibits (I assume that like most zoo animals they would spend

the Bendigo bound train at Spencer Street and an hour later you are

most of their time sleeping).


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But the star of the show is the beer and the Holgate guys know how to

ESB: This stands for English Special Bitter. Again I thought it a little under

present it too, for a very reasonable cost (I feel it might have been $15)

carbonated, even for an English style beer. It started sweet, but then the

you can get a tasting paddle of eight brews (and these are not one sip

hops came through to create a well rounded beer – Pint


tastes either, they are more like a third of a pot). UXB: Just like the ESB but bigger and stronger, it is not sessionable at all, There are a few other beers available by the bottle only, here are my

rather it is a beer suited to contemplation, and cheese – Pint


(very brief) thoughts on some of the beers we tried: 
 Road Trip: The stand-out on the paddle, the type of beer you taste before The Pilsener (if you are following along with the pic, the pilsener is on

you drink it and that’s all in the aroma, great big American hop tones. This

the top right, and we are working through the paddle clockwise): This

is really an outstanding beer, it has all of the depth of flavour that hops

had a thin body, a grassy nose and a hint of honey in the taste. It finished

can impart on beer, but not in an overly aggressive manner – Jug


dry and was refreshing but not all that interesting – Schooner 
 Double Trouble: Now the really smart amongst you might think that the Mt Macedon Ale: A pale ale, but actually not what I was expecting. It has

eighth beer on that paddle doesn’t look like a Dubbel Abbey ale, and

almost no aroma and the flavour was outdoorsy, with maybe a hint of

that’s because the eighth beer on there is Temptress, which is a beer I

pine, very sessionable – Pint


love and have reviewed before, so I shant discuss it here except to say this example was hand pumped, which I actually thought made is less

White Ale: If the pale ale had no aroma, this one made up for it. It was

enjoyable than usual. But back to the Double Trouble, the overwhelming

a flowery brew, Holgate claims this appeals to the non-drinker, perhaps

thought on this was that it is very sweet, it was like a Christmas pudding

that’s why I was left unmoved by it – Schooner


in a glass. I found it a little too sweet for my liking though – Schooner.

Big Reg: Marzen is a style I love and this didn’t let me down. It had some

So if you are looking for an awesome afternoon out I’d suggest heading

great biscuity, caramel flavours coming through. It was perhaps a little

to Holgate, it’s easy to get to, they have amazing food and the beer is

light on the carbonation and it runs the risk of getting a little cloyingly

pretty darn good as well. Oh and they do growler fills, so you can go

sweet, but hey I’d be happy to take that risk – Pint


home with two litres of your favourite beer, like I did with the Road Trip.

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recipe: Blueberry muffins Recipe and photos by Art of Baking

About Art of Baking Art of Baking is a little blog by Alex and Rani, a 20-something couple from Melbourne, SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

Australia. The blog explores their baking adventure as they whip up a storm (and mess) baking cakes, muffins, slices and other delights.

www.artofbaking.net

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

After a first date comes a second, and it was this easy blueberry muffin

the crumble and infused blueberry jam takes the muffins from lunchbox

recipe that guaranteed a third.

calibre to a gourmet cafĂŠ style treat.

This blueberry muffin recipe was the first thing we cooked when we

We continued to bond over the muffins, they made a delicious breakfast

shared a kitchen on our second date and we have to profess that it is

(made even better coupled with homemade coffee and an episode or

probably the best blueberry muffin recipe we have tried. The addition of

two of Californication) or a yummy mid morning snack. You might also

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receive an added dose of nostalgia if you are sent to work with your

¼ cup butter, cut into cubes

muffin wrapped and told explicitly to eat if for morning tea (remember

1½ tsp ground cinnamon

when a baked good for recess at school made your day?). For the jam Most blueberry muffin recipes we have tried produce a muffin that is

1 cup blueberries

lacking in flavour or sweetness. The blueberries and the bleueberry jam

1 tsp sugar

with crumble on top counteract these issues. This delicious blueberry muffin recipe is very versatile and the blueberries could be substituted

Method

for whatever fruit is in season. Bananas or raspberries could work just as well. Try our best blueberry muffin recipe and see for yourself! Let us

To make the jam

know what you think as we would love to hear.

Bring 1 cup of blueberries and 1 teaspoon of sugar to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat.

This is a delicious blueberry muffin recipe with a touch of blueberry jam

Cook the berries, stirring with a spoon to break some of the berries

and cinnamon crumble on top.

open. Stir frequently until mixture is thickened. Transfer to small bowl and cool to room temperature for around 10-15

Ingredients

minutes.

For the muffins

To make the crumb topping

1½ cups plain flour

Combine the sugar, flour, butter and cinnamon. Set aside.

¾ cup white sugar ½ tsp of salt

To make the muffins

2 tsp of baking powder

Preheat oven to 200°C.

⅓ cup melted butter

Grease muffin cups or line with muffin cases.

1 egg

Combine the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder by sifting together

⅓ cup milk

over a large bowl.

2 cups fresh blueberries (You can use frozen blueberries if you wish.

Place the melted butter into a measuring cup or a small bowl.

Don’t thaw the blueberries before added. Keep them frozen until just

Add the egg and the milk to the melted butter.

ready to add to the mixture)

Add the melted butter mixture to the flour mixture and mix together lightly.

For the crumb topping

Fold in the blueberries until just combined.

½ cup white sugar

Fill muffin cases right to the top and sprinkle with the crumb topping.

⅓ plain flour

Bake for 25 minutes.

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Blue Moose Café (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

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Blue Moose Café Ground Floor, 436 St Kilda Road, South Yarra. Ph: 9804 5605 Words and photos by Travelling in Mary Janes

About Travelling in Mary Janes A teacher by trade, I live life passionately and believe in being passionate about everything you do. I am passionate about food, from the very beginning of growing the produce, to the end product that ends up on our plates, either cooked by the professionals or by amateurs such as myself. There is no better joy in life than eating good food, and I believe in sharing it, so walk with me through a world of food…

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

www.berrytravels.com

When you are in a location that is surrounded by high rise buildings filled

efficiency seems to be their middle name. They understand their

with office workers, there are just two things that I believe you need to

clientele and they answer to their customers needs by speed and more

fully grasp for your café/restaurant to stay loved.

speed. Takeaway meals were flying out the doors as I sat there having my lunch and the turnover of tables would have made any Diner Dash

It needs to be:

player proud.

1. Good and tasty. 2. Fast.

I’m not a regular, and it has long left my memory just how much I paid for my meals, but I remember marvelling at how reasonable the pricing was.

And Blue Moose Café is both. I’ve been a few times now, mostly with K

Especially given the kind of clientele they get, they could have charged

when I used to visit her during lunch hours. I was blown away by how

a lot more and gotten away with it.

busy it was, the little café was practically humming! Good food, good prices, good service – what else can you ask for? Once you taste their food, it’s not hard to see why. An array of meals is offered at the counter for those who are short on time but they do offer

We tucked into our food eagerly, salad, pasta, risotto, pie alike were

a fairly good menu for a la carte as well. I’ve never tried ordering from

all equally tasty. I wouldn’t say that their Asian-inspired risottos tasted

their menu – every time I’ve been, the counter meals have suckered me

much like what they were named after but they certainly were tasty. And

in because they tasted amazing. With names such as Tandoori Risotto,

when you are trying to get a bit of food into you in between meetings,

how could I even begin to resist?

tasty is more important than authenticity, in my very humble opinion!

Their servings are not stingy either. With quite a team of wait staff

So if you are in the area and wondering where to eat, go to Blue Moose

available, they jump to attention when you need their service and

Café, grab a meal and sit back and let it all flow over you. Amazing.

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Cheerio (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

Cheerio 323 Lennox Street, Richmond. Ph: 9428 0000 Words and photos by Sharking For Chips and Drinks

About Sharking for Chips and Drinks Sharking for Chips and Drinks is a writer-photographer team that relocated from London to Melbourne last year, and soon found themselves falling for the city’s coffee, brunch and bar scenes – and every meal in between. While Melbourne is the main focus, the pair regularly venture far and wide across Australia, Asia and, of course, their old stomping ground in the UK.

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www.sharkingforchipsanddrinks.wordpress.com

Opening just a few weeks ago (late June – early July 2012), Cheerio is an ever-so cute space situated just off the main Swan Street drag. A little larger than a ‘hole in the wall’, it comprises a well-utilised front room that serves up a decent selection of food (check out the $10 lunch sandwiches) and Seven Seeds coffee.

The coffee is well made and served up in pastel-coloured cups and saucers. And using Jonsey’s milk gives them extra marks in my book.

Seating around 20 people at a time, the space is flooded with natural light

feel airy and a lot less narrow than it actually is. The whitewashed brick walls

due to the floor-to-almost-ceiling windows, which helps to make the room

and the banquettes and pastel-coloured stools all help create an illusion of

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Restaurant & Events Sunday Family Table, Melbourne’s coolest way to spend a Sunday A word to the wise – the good news about this place is going to get out quick. Many a local wandered past with groceries in hand and double-backed to stick their nose in the door to see what all the fuss was about. So pay a visit before the neighbourhood realises what is has got sitting on its doorstep. space too. Shout out to the trio of flying ducks on the white-woodpanelled back wall too, we like. Not that size matters too much. As the concise menu proves, good things come in small packages, as it offers the usual suspects (granola, pancakes and beans on toast) while shaking things up at the same time (toasted briont – brioche/croissant hybrid, meaty-cheesy sandwiches with homemade slaws). Attention to detail goes through to the lovingly chosen condiments – Beechworth honey, for example. The coffee is well made and served up in pastel-coloured cups and saucers. And using Jonsey’s milk gives them extra marks in my book. Breakfast is served from 7am, but we opted for the lunch sandwiches that were available from 10am and will set you back no more than $10. The garlic roast chicken, lemon aioli, chives and frisee lettuce was spot on the money. A nicely marinated filling with pungent garlic and lettuce tossed in pepper and salt. WordMonkey opted for the pan-fried haloumi, vine tomatoes, greens, gherkin, herb and lemon cream cheese. The fluffy ciabatta had a nice crunchy crust. Satisfying without being jaw-breaking. The haloumi was grilled perfection and the tang of the

Mention Gram at time of reservation and we’ll give you a free bottle of wine to enjoy with your lunch!

“Every Sunday, we encourage you to share, there is plenty of food and you should be bursting by the time you leave.” Gary Mehigan (Owner & MasterChef Judge)

gherkin and cream cheese brought the dish to its full potential. A word to the wise – the good news about this place is going to get out quick. Many a local wandered past with groceries in hand and doublebacked to stick their nose in the door to see what all the fuss was about. So pay a visit before the neighbourhood realises what is has got sitting on its doorstep.

OPEN 7 DAYS Open for lunch seven days, dinner Monday to Saturday and for breakfast on weekends.

We reward those who follow us… competitions, giveaways and coffee code words.

Opening hours Monday to Saturday: 7am-4pm Sunday: 8am-4pm

Scan tag to visit our website

680 Victoria Street, Richmond 3121 P. 03 9427 8500 | W. fenix.com.au


tr ad e s h ow • s e m i nar s • wo r ks h o ps • sate llite eve nts

@ a u str a l i a’s b i g g e st e v e r c o f f e e e xh i b iti o n f o r m o r e i n f o r m ati o n a n d d e ta i l s c o nta c t K ate o n +6 1 3 9 6 9 0 876 6 o r e m a i l K ate.w i l Ki n s o n@p r i m e c r e ati v e.c o m.a u

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON dolcetti (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

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Dolcetti 223 Victoria Street, West Melbourne. Ph: 9328 1688 Words and photos by Consider the Sauce

Consider The Sauce Consider The Sauce’s Kenny Weir believes the best food in Melbourne – maybe anywhere – is made by the friendliest people for the keenest prices in the city’s western suburbs. He abhors food that is “plated” – he likes his food on a plate, or in a bowl; cutlery optional. He is a veteran writer, editor, researcher and disc jockey – and, for the past decade, a father.

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WWW.CONSIDERTHESAUCE.NET

Despite having a deep fondness for Dolcetti we don’t visit as often as we

required to pass judgment on what, after all, is mere food… to be enjoyed,

would like. Perhaps that’s because when we’re in the West Melbourne/

or not, as the case may be. He does, however, seem well pleased.

Victoria Market neighbourhood we are, more often than not, seeking something savoury and substantial. Dolcetti is not big on the savouries,

Based on my sneak taste of the two custards, such an outlook is spot on.

although on our latest visit we note there are some good-looking pizzas

I go for one each of ciascuni ($2.20) and buccelatti ($2.40). The former

on display.

has fig, walnut, orange and honey wrapped in an open snake of superb short pastry. It’s rather plain, only mildly sweet and entirely delicious.

When we do visit, what we do get are superbly authentic Sicilian-style sweet treats. Moreover, they’re delivered here with a lightness of touch

The buccelatti also has fig, orange, honey and walnut, along with

and delicacy and refinement of flavours we rarely encounter elsewhere.

chocolate and raisins, but the end result is substantially different, with a more chunky filling. The citrus component is much more pronounced

Happily, this day’s lunchtime chores have been well taken care of by

and does an erotic belly dance with the chocolate. This is so good, so

the simple expedient of doing the Bratwurst Boogie down the road at

outrageously perfect, I buy two to take home just so Bennie can enjoy the

the market. So we are most certainly up for a heaping serve of sweet

same taste hit later in the evening.

satisfaction of the more aesthetic variety. Bennie says his hot chocolate is good; my café latte is better than good. Bennie stays true to form by requesting a simple old-school cannoli of the chocolate/vanilla persuasion ($3.20). Quizzed by his dad, he is a little

As ever at Dolcetti, we leave with food senses utterly romanced but

non-committal about its merits. Maybe because he does get tired of being

tummies and purses in no way tested.

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON pope joan (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

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Pope Joan 77 – 79 Nicholson Street, Brunswick East. Ph: 9388 8858 Words and photos by The Culinary Library

About The Culinary Library The Culinary Library food blog began in August 2011 as a collaboration between two generations, Prue and Di Gramp, to explore the history, tools, uses, and preparation techniques of the foods man has spent thousands of years perfecting. Their blog features recipes and restaurant reviews that reflect their passion for food in their daily life.

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www.TheCulinaryLibrary.com

Pope Joan is a small café in Melbourne’s northern suburbs that has been

white truffle ravioli, hazelnuts, roquette and parmesan ($18).

on my list of places to try for a while and I finally got a chance to have a

The parsnip and cauliflower soup was deliciously smooth and creamy

casual lunch there when Di from The Culinary Library was visiting from

and the parsnip crisps on the top added a lovely crunch and flavour.

Adelaide. Pope Joan is on Nicholson Street in East Brunswick and could

They serve their soup in tall and skinny Robert Gordon bowls on wooden

easily be missed if you were not looking out for it. It is owned by Ben

boards that not only make great presentation, but keep your soup

Foster and Matt Wilkinson and their two head chefs are Frank Verschaeve

toasty warm.

and Jason Newton. They serve breakfast and lunch seven days a week from 7.30am to 4pm. The cosy interior is laid out with wooden tables,

The house made ravioli had a soft cheese filling and was served with

flowers and fresh pomegranates and the shelves are stacked with a small

roasted hazelnuts, parmesan and roquette from their vegetable garden.

collection of cookbooks and vintage trinkets.

The pasta was cooked perfectly and the fresh peppery rocket offset the rich parmesan, fontina and truffle. Hazelnuts were a great addition

Their menu is based on seasonal produce and has a good mixture of well

as they compliment both cheese and fresh salad leaves and add a nice

priced small breakfast and lunch options including taleggio and rosemary

crunch to the dish. The ravioli was served on top of what seemed to be

scrambled eggs, pumpkin and haloumi pie, gourmet sandwiches and

a parsnip puree that was equally delicious.

daily specials such as seafood and pasta dishes. They have a small veggie and herb garden out the back from which they pick fresh ingredients to

In the cake cabinet there were lots of lovely looking treats for dessert

complement their dishes.

or as a coffee accompaniment such as raspberry macaroons and lemon and rosemary cakes. The quality of the food and presentation at Pope

For lunch, we chose two items from the specials menu: Parsnip and

Joan shows attention to detail by chefs who clearly care about their

cauliflower soup with toast and parsnip crisps ($12) and
Fontina and

food and it is well worth heading back for.

23


SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON milkwood (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

24


Milkwood 120 Nicholson Street, Brunswick East. Ph: 9380 4062 Words and photos by Eatandbemerryfortomorrowwediet

About Eatandbemerryfortomorrowwediet Eatandbemerryfortomorrowwediet is a collaborative effort by a group of current and former SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

work colleagues who like to eat out. We eat, we talk and we tell you what we thought and why.

www.eatandbemerryfortomorrowwediet.blogspot.com.au

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

There’s a big difference between saying somewhere’s the best place

Well sort of anyway, if you can call something you were expecting

you’ve been and saying somewhere’s your favourite. Saying somewhere

to be nice a surprise. White walls and furniture broken up by a few

is the best implies some sort of objective standard against which all

decorations and greenery, it’s much more Country Living or Good

meals must be measured. On the other hand saying somewhere is your

Housekeeping magazine than the industrial or grungy look common in

favourite means that based on your own subjective preferences you liked

the northern suburbs.

somewhere more than anywhere else. While we all try to be objective when blogging about the places we visit it’s obviously impossible to

Early on a Saturday morning it was still fairly quiet, with well spaced

come up with a definitive standard that everyone will agree with. It’s

tables and not overly loud background music and fellow diners who

probably for the best too – imagine trying to get a table if there was one

were happy just sitting there drinking coffee or waiting for their choice

single place that everyone wants to eat at. Taking that in mind I’m willing

from a fairly short and simple breakfast menu.

to make the call that Milkwood isn’t the best café I’ve been to this year Given outside it was a chilly minus several hundred degrees I decided

but it is my favourite.

to go with a warming porridge. Topped with baked orange blossom Why you ask? Because I liked everything about it except it’s so far from

rhubarb and toasted macadamia and brown sugar crumble, what made

home for me. I liked the way it’s so surprisingly nice inside compared

it even better was serving the milk in a small jug on the side. I much

to what you’d expect from the outside. It’s a bit of a theme for Melbourne

prefer it when the milk is served separately so you can decide how wet

cafés, daggy exteriors mean that it’s a nice surprise when you open

you want your porridge (I’m kind of a dryer porridge guy). It’s similar to

the door.

maple syrup on pancakes, everyone likes different amounts so why not

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Given outside it was a chilly minus several hundred degrees I decided to go with a warming porridge. Topped with baked orange blossom rhubarb and toasted macadamia and brown sugar crumble, what made it even better was serving the milk in a small jug on the side.

Given we had gone with such healthy choices, breakfast desserts were obviously in order. Honestly, given how good they looked it was hard to decide which way to go. They all had that home baked look to them, were generous in size and very, very tempting. Between us we decided on the caramel slice and the Monte Carlo, a cream and jam filled biscuit. The pick of the two was the Monte Carlo although I thought the rich sweet caramel of the slice ran a close second. One thing unusual about them both, at first bite I thought they were each okay, good but nothing special. However the more I ate the better they got and the more I wanted.

let us add it to our own taste? The macadamia and sugar crumble gave the dish great texture, and the slight tartness of the rhubarb balanced

Overall

the overall sweetness very well. It’s just basically yummy warming

I thought it was the nicest place to sit and eat I’ve seen in a café for a

comfort food.

long time, with very good food and efficient, polite staff. Combine that with prices at or below similar cafés closer to town and you have a place

Snooze went with the poached eggs on sourdough with an optional

I’d be more than happy to visit again and again. Now if only they’d open

extra of avocado with lemon oil. It was a simple dish with good clear

a sister café down in the southeast…

distinct flavours, the highlight of which was the avocado and lemon oil. Because it was such a simple dish all the elements need to be spot on,

Verdict

and while I wouldn’t describe the poached eggs as overcooked, a little

Food – 8

less cooking would’ve improved them. One unusual thing which Snooze

Ambience – 8.5

mentioned was there was a small amount of coarse salt sprinkled over

Service – 8

the eggs, something different which she commented on favourably.

Price – 7.5

26


28


wine reviews Words and photo by Krystina Menegazzo

ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who completed her winemaking degree whilst being a gypsy working in vintages throughout Australia and Italy. Finally she decided to return home and sell wine instead. In her spare time she cooks, eats, drinks buon vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

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www.ladonnadelvino.com

SHADOWFAX Minnow 2011

Not one to shy away from unusual grape varieties, she gave the grapes

Estate grown in Werribee South, Victoria. RRP $27.00

24 hours of skin contact before fermenting the juice in large 800 litre

The bottle of Minnow sat on the table with its retro Space Invader-

terracotta amphorae. The result is a deep yellow wine with a delicate

like colours flashing back at me as I stared at it intently. I was trying to

and generous feel in the mouth. It also has some of the most intriguing

figure out the wine before I had even cracked its seal. “Would you be

flavours I have tasted for some time. I was hit with papaya, bay leaf and

small and of little power?” I wondered, “or was there something a little

a prick of chilli with a warm almond finish. With its gossamer-like texture

fishy going on?”

and that combination of crisp acidity and creamy mid-palate, I swooned.

The team at Shadowfax and winemaker Matt Harrop decided a few years

I had found my charcuterie white match at last. Available in retail at

ago to rip out a section of shiraz vines and graft over them with red

Europa Cellars and Bottega Tasca or even try it at bars like Casa Ciuccio

varieties typically found together in southern France. The new kids on the

in Fitzroy.

block were cinsault, mataro, carignan and grenache. Wine was made from these vines not long after. The blend has proven to be very successful as a

ALAIN GRAILLOT Syrocco Syrah 2009

lighter style made from the rich red soils of Werribee South.

Product of Morocco. RRP $32.95

In the wine glass it is coloured the palest but prettiest ruby. The aromas are

I have wanted to travel to Morocco for a while now but the timing has

a delectable concoction of spices, bay leaf, wild berries and cranberries,

always been a little off. So there was no hesitation on my part when I

with a touch of pink peppercorn from the vast amount of uncrushed

stumbled across this bottle in South Melbourne’s Prince Wine Store…a

whole berries in the ferment. Harrop was adamant from the start that

little something to whet my Moroccan appetite. Morocco might not have

the wine would be matured in old oak. The end result is this magnificent

the most recognised reputation for wine, but when such a reputable

medium-bodied wine that makes for some very easy drinking. So much

name is behind the project, you can be assured it will be a fine example.

so that not long after opening the bottle, it was already empty in my

The reputable name I am referring to is French Rhone winemaker

hand. Aha! I knew something fishy was going on. You have been warned.

Alain Graillot. I would love to say the story unfolded with the classic, ‘A

Available to purchase at Shadowfax cellar door, The Wine House, or even

Frenchman and a Moroccan walked into a bar…[insert incredibly witty

by the glass at Taxi Dining Room.

joke here]. However, the actual tale of how the wine was eventually born came about when Graillot went cycling in Morocco and came across the

QUEALY Friulano Amphora 2011

Domaine des Ouleb Thaleb winery. The image of the two men atop a

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria. RRP $27.00

tandem bicycle next to a palm tree that adorns the label is a charming

July is salami season. By the time you read this I will have already

representation of this joint venture.

spent one Sunday on the Mornington Peninsula shivering in the early

The Syrocco uses the syrah grape and offers a thick, jooby wine full

morning air and getting my hands dirty producing a variety of cured

of freshly picked blackcurrant and blackberry aromas. The palate is

meats. Fingers crossed my session is a success! The salami season got

relatively soft, but surprisingly dense due to these bolder flavours and

me pondering winter whites. I wanted to find a white wine that could

some blood plums also add depth. Despite the gentle entry, the finish

be eaten with salami and other rich foods. I ended up discovering

has a firm, rustic grip, almost like shaking the old worn hands of a farmer

something that would accompany Italian-style smallgoods so deliciously

like my dear grandfather.

that it would have been folly for me to look any further.

So I may be hopeless at creating jokes, but at least drinking this wine has

Friulano is a staple variety of the north-eastern corner of Italy in the

not deterred me from making the trip to Morocco in the hopefully not-

Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. The grape now has one pioneer winemaker,

too-distant future. It is the Moroccan culture, scenery and food that I am

Kathleen Quealy, giving it a turn on Australian soil. Quealy crafted the

ultimately after, but who knows, I may find myself trying more of their

Friulano wine in the Mornington Peninsula at her Balnarring vineyard.

wines too. Available online at International Fine Wines.

29


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GRAM Magazine: July 2012 // Edition 18  

GRAM is food and drink culture. Compiled.

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