GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 74 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
Things are a bit different at Black Gold, Lennox Street's newest resident: with wagyu beef, smoked duck and smoked salmon on the menu, you won’t be craving your boring ol’ brekky. And if their GENIUS egg pizzas aren’t egging you on yet, get this: they’ve somehow managed to be extremely different and yet extremely Melbourne. How? They’ve deconstructed the traditional smashed avo dish – and it’s a real crowd pleaser. In fact, Black Gold isn't afraid to go all out in beautifying their dishes with the finest ingredients. Black Gold’s Chef Azem Dzevlan loves to keep all things premium.
@blackgoldest2016 BLACK GOLD EST 285 Lennox Street RICHMOND VIC 3121 We're guessing Richmond locals will definitely be back for multiple visits, but get in early before their heavenly hollandaise-drenched wagyu benedict sells out! Living up to their exclusive name, Black Gold is one of the first cafes in Melbourne to offer a special blend of Raspberry Candy from award-winning ONA Specialty Coffee. Black Gold is clearly off to a flying start, but the little selfish part inside us hopes it stays a Richmond secret for a while yet.
With food like this? Fat chance.
CONTENTS FEATURE MELBOURNE MAKERS AND SHAKERS 18
Megan Osborne
ON THE ROAD
MELBOURNE’S BEST
REGULARS
DISCOVERING THE BOOZY HIDDEN
MELBOURNE’S BEST HIDDEN BARS
CONTRIBUTORS
4
GEMS OF THE PENINSULA
Lisa Holmen
NOW OPEN
6
Lauren Bruce
INTERVIEW
HOW TO
FIVE MINUTES WITH THE WORLD’S BEST
AROUND THE TRAPS
RECIPES COCKTAIL: DOCTOR
THINGS WE LOVE 30
CREATING THE PERFECT
BARTENDER: JENNIFER LE NECHET Lauren Bruce
9
24
17
GIN AND TONIC Sam Ng
COCKTAIL: SAZERAC 22
7 28
REVIEWS
32
OUT AND ABOUT
34
THE DIARY
35
31
ON THE COVER: MOJITO A mojito is a cocktail that consists of five ingredients: white rum, sugar (traditionally sugar cane juice), lime juice, soda water, and mint. The original Cuban recipe uses spearmint or yerba buena, a mint variety very popular on the island. Its combination of sweetness, refreshing citrus, and mint flavours is intended to complement the potent kick of the rum, and has made this clear highball a popular summer drink. The cocktail has a relatively low alcohol content (about 10% alcohol by volume). Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: keats@grammagazine.com.au
Jess Hourigan
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
EDITOR
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au
Lauren Bruce
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
www.grammagazine.com.au
3
CONTRIBUTORS As the weather starts to get serious about being cold, we’re
best winter booze and how to drink it; we chat to Starward
all looking to bunker down in the warmth of our favourite
Whisky and Melbourne Moonshine and snag a couple of
laneway bar, or at home, with a smoky whisky or a wine to
secret recipes; and we discover our city-based and regional
get the rosiness back into our cheeks.
hidden boozy gems to escape the frosty Victorian weather.
Everywhere you look this month, it seems to be about booze
Chin chin!
to cope with winter. Negroni week saw us get our Gin and vermouth on, the rosy-red-coloured cocktail warming us to
Lauren Bruce
the very bottom of our hearts. Many a whisky masterclass
EDITOR
is being taken. We’re slowly letting go of the froses and
lauren@grammagazine.com.au
the Aperol spritzes to make way for the hot toddies and a smoky nip of Laphroig, hold the ice. For June we’re giving you all you need to know about how to get the most out of your booze this winter. We’re learning how to make the perfect Gin and Tonic with head bartender extraordinaire at Four Pillars, Sam Ng; we speak to the World’s Best Bartender Jennifer Le Nechet about the
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee- obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
LISA HOLMEN After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel. Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
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MEGAN OSBORNE DEPUTY EDITOR
Megan Osborne is the GRAM Magazine deputy editor and a food-obsessed writer. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_ bandwagon
burrata, mussel guazzetto & olive crumbs
#thatsamorecheese
www.thatsamorecheese.com.au
NOW OPEN
BENNY BURGER Following much anticipation from Melbourne’s food elite and burger bros alike, Vue De Monde’s Shannon Bennett is now making like many chefs at the helm of fine diners these days, opening fast food joint Benny Burger in Richmond.
SAINT LUCIA Taking inspiration from the Caribbean, Cuba and Southern America, Saint Lucia offers a slice of tropical paradise six nights a week on Chapel St, Windsor.
Like the Neil Perrys, George Calombarises and Shane Delias before him, Bennett’s sights are set high, expanding his repertoire into slightly more casual fare while juggling a few projects at once including a smokehouse bbq eatery in the US, a whisky bar, and other establishments in the works.
Incorporating a fresh, modern spin on classic staples, the part cocktail bar, part modern Caribbean restaurant is warm and welcoming with quirky colourful accents, eclectic trinkets and lush greenery throughout its interior. Saint Lucia’s winter menu focuses on modern, flavoursome island-inspired dishes guaranteed to excite. A must-try is their super Kokomo Kone. Featuring jerk BBQ fried chicken, slaw, charred corn, lime mayo, candied scotch bonnet and toasted coconut served in a ‘sunset’ waffle cone, it’s the ultimate starter packed full of flavour. Other stand-outs on the menu include Mac ‘n’ Cheese Mini Donuts with chilli cheese dipping sauce, Coconut Braised Goat Tacos with pickled cucumber, candied scotch bonnet and Toasted Coconut and Chorizo and Goat’s Cheese cigars with piquillo pepper sauce.
Benny Burger focuses on ethical produce, from the grass-fed beef down to the potatoes used to make the fries. But after Vue de Monde, why does Bennett want to flip burgers? The answer can be found on the burger outlet’s Facebook page: “One of Shannon Bennett’s favourite memories growing up was the weekend ritual of his Dad, Benny Bennett, throwing a few burgers on the barbie. This may come as a surprise to those who know Benny, whose culinary claim to fame is blowing up a Christmas turkey and liking his toast ‘well done’: black on both sides and in the middle. It was only years later when Shannon revisited this ritual with his own family, that he discovered just how good those burgers were, sourced from the local butcher long before ‘organic’ and ‘locavore’ became buzz words, full of ripe salad vegies, fresh from the gardens, nestled within home made buns.”
78 CHAPEL STREET, WINDSOR
Well, we’re intrigued! Several more of the burger outlets are set to open in Melbourne as
saintluciawindsor.com.au
well, so keep an ear out. 95 SWAN STREET, RICHMOND facebook.com/Bennyburgerofficial
XM4 Southsiders rejoice! Your new local neighbourhood wine
with a strong emphasis on local produce and comfort
and cheese bar, XM4, has just opened up in St Kilda.
food. An additional brunch and bagel menu is on offer for those in need of a good coffee and an easy-going
Wanting to establish themselves as the neighbourhood’s
breakfast.
premium cheese, charcuterie and boutique wine venue, XM4’s Clair Lane says the establishment are passionate
Wines, spirits and beers are predominantly from local
about what they do. “We take great pride in the quality
Australian producers and “the list is always changing
and uniqueness of our venue,” Lane says.
and perfecting,” Lane says.
The XM4 cheese cabinet is forever evolving, showcasing
XM4 is open Tuesdays through to Sundays.
what’s best in season. No two boards are ever the same. 143 CHAPEL STREET, ST KILDA If you’re looking for something more than cheese, an approachable sharing menu is the order of the day,
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xm4.com.au
AROUND THE TRAPS
NORTHCOTE’S MERRICOTE CLOSES AFTER A SIXYEAR STINT After establishing a strong reputation in the slightly surprising location along High St Northcote, warm and charming fine diner Merricote has closed. Opening in 2011, the small and cosy restaurant established a loyal clientele with their European menu, elegantly comfortable fit-out and post-meal cheese trolley. According to owners Bronwyn and Rob Kabbord, the restaurant has always been intended as a six-year stepping stone to something else. For the last couple of years, Rob has commuted to Sydney to work with Peter Gilmore at Sydney’s best restaurant, Quay; returning to Melbourne to oversee head chef Matt Binney. Bronwyn, meanwhile, has continued to operate front-of house. Interestingly, what shape that might take has been undecided, but it is likely to be of the beverage variety given the couple’s strong focus on wine and beer. The site at 81 has been bought by a local couple who will likely turn it into an eatery in the not too distant future. www.merricote.com.au
TRUFFLE SEASON KICKS OFF IN MELBOURNE Victoria’s truffle season has been officially welcomed at the launch of the Truffle Melbourne Festival, which which officially kicked off at the Queen Victoria Market on Saturday 17 June. Hosted in the Vic Market’s Dairy Hall, guests were served Bass & Flinders’ truffled gin & tonic, as well as truffled delights from Scott Pickett’s Pickett’s Deli such as churros with goats cheese, honey and truffle, mac and cheese croquettes with cauliflower and truffle and jerusalem artichokes with pickled onion and, you guessed it, truffle. “It’s hard to believe but just four years ago when we started, we first had to explain that our festival was about celebrating the fungi variety of truffle and we weren’t all about chocolate truffles,” laughs Truffle Melbourne Director Nigel Wood. “In 2017, consumers are astute, aware and eager to taste truffles on everything from my personal favourite, scrambled eggs, to risotto, pastas, toasted cheese and more unique pairings with pork, chocolate and even ice cream.” Victoria’s truffle season is around until August, so head to trufflemelbourne.com to find out where you can buy truffles, where you can go on truffle hunts, the types of Victorian truffle and more. trufflemelbourne.com
A food outlet that proves itself again and again, Pickett’s will be serving two delicious deli items both priced at $12: the Mr P’s Philly Cheese Steak with barbequed beef brisket roll, grilled onions, cheddar and Mr P’s famous brown sauce; and Pickett’s Rotisserie Chicken Roll with chicken hot off the rotisserie, tarragon stuffing, lettuce and mayo. Owner Scott Pickett says he’s thrilled to be joining the Winter Night Market’s 30-strong lineup of food traders. “The Night Market has been such a significant part of the Queen Victoria Market (Vic Market) since its inception 19 years ago and we’re really excited to be a part of such a fantastic Melbourne event,” he says.
PICKETT’S DELI JOINS WINTER NIGHT MARKET LINEUP If you didn’t have a reason to go to this year’s Winter Night Market at the Queen Victoria Market, now you absolutely do. Pickett’s Deli & Rotisserie is set to join the lineup of global food traders for the remainder of the Winter Night Market season, running until the end of August.
The Winter Night Market is now one of Melbourne’s most iconic and favourite events on the winter calendar, with over a quarter million people likely to attend over the 13week season. The Night Market runs every Wednesday from the 7th of June to the 30th of August. www.thenightmarket.com.au
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DISCOVERING THE BOOZY HIDDEN GEMS OF THE PENINSULA WORDS BY LAUREN BRUCE
I’m ashamed to admit that, for a while, I haven’t been much of a champion
wine businesses along the Peninsula, fully blossomed into utmost respect.
for what the Mornington Peninsula has to offer. Always more of a Great
Conducting tours that focus on high quality but perhaps less familiar
Ocean Road girl, I favoured the food and drink the Surf Coast had to offer
food and drink businesses in the area is wine-touring company Wine
while I ogled the coastline in all of its finery.
Compass*. Taking Gram around the Peninsula to enlighten us on what is on offer, Founder Adam Nicholls concedes that the area has in some
I saw the Peninsula as a bit of a sad second-place - a place of only-slightly-
respects developed a lacklustre name for itself in the food and beverage
okay wineries whose main reason for being was to host hen’s parties.
mainstream; but says that, if you delve a little deeper, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
How far from uncovering the truth I have been. Recently, Mornington Peninsula’s food and drink culture has had me sheepishly heading back
“We love the more boutique wineries of the Peninsula,” Nicholls says,
to this part of Victoria with a newly instated confidence in the region. It
talking us through the type of itinerary his business is likely to create for
started with the many places to go to forage for pine mushrooms around
its customers. “If you want to have some really cool experiences, amazing
Red Hill, further progressed after tasting a delicious Red Hill Truffle, and
wines and meet great local characters, the smaller, lesser known producers
has now, thanks to the discovery of lesser known but incredible food and
can be a better option.”
9
QUEALY WINEMAKERS
Quealy takes immense pride in not just her own wine, but the broader region and the beautiful cold climate wines it does, and has the potential
Located just 5km away from Red Hill, the Quealy winery is bursting with
to, produce – in particular, the Mornington Peninsula pinot gris. “[I will]
character, from the bold design of the Quealy wine labels (designed by the
always be the champion of Mornington Peninsula pinot gris,” she says.
Quealy owners’ friend, the internationally-renowned Ken Cato) that adorn the many bottles lined up at the cellar door, to the passionate owners and
When McCarthy and Quealy introduced the pinot gris variety in the 80s,
the equally passionate people who assist them.
Quealy says many local winemakers thought it was madness, initially ignoring the variety… until customers started demanding it. “Now 80% of
Husband and wife team Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy are known
Mornington Peninsula cellar doors offer pinot gris,” Quealy says. “When
for their innovation and imagination, and have tread a comprehensive and
you pioneer a variety you always feel a little responsible for its trajectory,
vibrant path in the winemaking industry. Both graduating from winemaking
[despite the fact that] you have no influence [on that]. We are both very
at uni in the 80s, the pair worked as winemakers in The Granite Belt,
happy with the great success of Peninsula pinot gris.”
Queensland before heading to Victoria and establishing themselves as winemakers in their newly adopted cold climate environment.
While the variety is now grown in many regions of Australia, the Peninsula’s pinot gris remains preeminent. “The cold maritime climate is a terrain of
After getting the lay of the land, McCarthy and Quealy launched T’Gallant
intimate hills and valleys, rich volcanic and clay loams. The late cool season
Winemakers in 1990, where they proved unafraid to venture into
captures the aromatics and fine acidity,” Quealy says. The quality of the
unchartered territory when it came to developing new varieties and styles
wine is also heavily dependent on the “range of passionate vine growers
of wines. Selling the company to Fosters Beer, they purchased their winery
and winemakers who understand the quality is [in the] viticulture, hand-
vineyard in 2003.
pruning and hand-picking, small batch winemaking and time, time, time [given to] every aspect of the operation.”
McCarthy stayed on at T’Gallant as Brand Ambassador for another 10 years, while Quealy, assisted by winemaker Dan Calvert, began Quealy
Their collective strong character, along with the in-depth knowledge and
Winemakers in 2006. Along with the winery vineyard, the couple lease and
experience of the Quealy/McCarthy team, is well and truly reflected in
manage five other Mornington Peninsula vineyards to secure the quality
their unique and undeniably delicious wines. “Quealy Winemakers have a
and personality of their wines, which are headed up by viticulturist Lucas
peasant philosophy. The inspiration is in nature, in the air and whatever the
Blanck.
vintage brings, and the discipline is sustainability and thrift,” Quealy says somewhat ominously.
10
Quealy offer a range of single vineyard Pinot Gris, Pinot Noirs and modern,
Another highlight is Quealy’s Secco Splendido, a dry and delicious sparkling
natural-style skin contact white wine. these winemakers have something
wine made by a Metodo Ancestrale, which means ‘a rural method’.
for everyone, their wines so good they dangerously barely touch the sides as you guzzle them down.
“Quealy Winemakers pioneered muscat on the Mornington Peninsula, reinterpreting Australia’s love affair with sweet warm climate wine,”
“[Our Pobblebonk] is what ‘natural’ wine is all about,” Quealy says.
Quealy says. “[We] grow these premium varietals in a cool climate with
“Each variety [in the wine] is selected for complementing attributes. In
the same kind of love and attention as a pinot noir or gris is attended to.”
this case, pinot grigio blended with other white varieties opens up the
The Quealy Secco Splendido Metodo Ancestrale – which can be described
‘noir’ aroma of raspberry and pink fruits. Friulano is stern and structured,
as a Pet-Nat style wine, where the ferment finishes in the bottle – has no
chardonnay is lean muscle and then the riesling and moscato giallo add
sugar or sulphur added.
another dimension to the aroma and steel to the palate,” Quealy explains colourfully.
Their rose version of the Secco Splendido, the headily perfumed Metodo Redmondo, is named after their son Redmond McCarthy. A definite
Quealy Winemakers grow their pinot noir and pinot gris/grigio varieties
favourite with customers (and us), this wine is also made without sulphur
at their winery, and at the vineyards they lease at Hickson, Musk Creek,
and, like its white counterpart, finishes the fermentation process in the
Campbell & Christine and Tussie Mussie. “They all bathe in the warmth of
bottle, allowing for extremely gentle natural bubbles to develop.
sunny sites, no irrigation, and hard pruning that commit the vineyards to small sustainable yields every year,” Quealy says.
Despite working in a difficult industry full of environmental and industrydriven challenges, Quealy has a positive story to tell about winemaking.
For those that love the now very fashionable skin contact wines, Quealy’s
“I think Australian consumers and the wine industry are growing up
Friulano is a great place to start.
together,” Quealy says. “Winemaking is not about vast resources poured into the bottle, it’s about winemakers and viticulturists capturing their
“Friulano is a new Italian varietal that we have pioneered in Australia,”
region’s quality and style with their skill, their vision and confidence.”
Quealy says, further explaining that the variety is overlooked by many
Quealy’s winery cellar door is open everyday.
in the industry as it suits skin contact, which is a fairly new winemaking
quealy.com.au
technique in Australia.
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BASS AND FLINDERS DISTILLERY Founded in 2009 by Wayne Klintworth and Bob Laing, Bass and Flinders initially started as a hobby and passion by the two semi-retired men who were looking to create a very different kind of spirit using local grapes. The pair saw a lot of vineyards and apple orchards around the region, but noticed no-one was using the fruit to distil spirits, a practice more common in Europe. Inspired by the traditional aged spirits of France such as Calvados and Cognac, Klintworth and Laing created the Bass and Flinders aged grape spirit known as Ochre, a premium brandy aged for five years in French Oak barrels. “We source local wine to produce our own grape-based spirit firstly because, being surrounded by vineyards, it seems only natural to want to use wine as a base for all the products we make,” Klintworth’s daughter and recently appointed Bass & Flinders Co Director, Holly Klintworth says. “Grape-based spirits are very smooth, and have a unique texture and viscosity that works extremely well, particularly in our gins. We choose to take the extra time to make our own base spirit rather than purchase commercial-grade ethanol, because we have a lot more control over the end product.” Klintworth says they are able to extract the unwanted alcohols this way, which results in an extremely smooth finish. “It’s really important to us that we are able to account for everything that goes into each bottle of spirit we produce. The more control we have over each element, the better.” Bass & Flinders work with both chardonnay and shiraz wine, extracting the ethanol, which then forms the base of all of their products, of which there is an astounding variety. One product that has a particularly compelling and heart-wrenching story is their recently-released Angry Ant gin. Klintworth and Laing wanted to create a uniquely Australian gin. The pair were inspired by an episode of Australian Story about Wooleen Station, a property focused on protecting and regenerating the land for ecotourism rather than unsustainable pastoralism. Klintworth and Laing made contact with the owners, and a most unusual collaboration was born; the distillery setting about making use of the environment and the botanicals available on the property to infuse gin, including one very intriguing ingredient: ants.
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“Angry Ant Gin is a beautiful gin and, contrary to its name, has a delicate flavour due to the native Australian botanicals like native lemongrass, mulla mulla, purple vetch, and the pheromones of the native black ant [which] we were able to extract, to use their dramatic and unique flavour,” Klintworth says. The pheromones are characterised by the environment the ants inhabit at Wooleen, where they were selected and harvested. Bass & Flinders were assisted in this endeavour by Professor Mark Elgar from Melbourne University, who helped the distillery further understand the ant pheromones and how to use them. Laing had been working on different recipes for Angry Ant Gin when he passed away in February 2016. The gin was launched in the insect room of the Melbourne Museum in March 2016, sadly before Laing was able to see the fruits of his labour. “The event honoured the passion and dedication
Bass & Flinders Distillery is open for tours and tastings on Fridays, Saturdays
Bob poured into the business,” Klintworth says.
and Sundays and some public holidays. They also host a fantastic gin masterclass where you can learn about the craft of gin making and its
Since its launch, Angry Ant Gin has been extremely well-received, winning
history, as well as the chance to create your own gin recipe, going home
a silver medal at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits competition in the
with a 500 ml bottle of your own customised version of the delicious spirit.
same month.
bassandflindersdistillery.com
Along with Angry Ant, Bass & Flinders has an array of intriguing and unique
RARE HARE WINE AT WILLOW CREEK
products. The distillery also recently launched Cerise, a pink gin flavoured by local cherries and raspberries with a hue reminiscent of the flamingo
Willow Creek Vineyard was established in 1989 on an old grazing property
pink made popular in the 80s.
in the heart of the Mornington Peninsula. Planted on the deep volcanic soils of the region that are well known for producing rich flavours, the 28-
In addition, to celebrate the launch of the June-August truffle season, the
acre vineyard grows pinot noir, chardonnay and cabernet, as well as small
distillery has launched a truly delicious truffle gin and truffle vodka using
parcels of pinot gris and sauvignon blanc.
Black Perigord truffles from Red Hill Truffles (the gin is REALLY good in a G&T using Fever Tree tonic and a sprig of rosemary for garnish). They
Long-time vineyard manager Robbie O’Leary hand-tends the vineyard
also have a new Winter Gin, with flavours of a Winter Christmas including
with a focus on pruning, canopy management, yield control, and harvest.
apple, orange, cinnamon, nutmeg and star anise, which is very tasty when
Winemaker Geraldine McFaul has worked closely with Robbie since 2008,
drunk neat.
and their collective comprehensive knowledge of the site is central to the wines it produces. The
Willow
Creek
Vineyard
site
recently
underwent
a dramatic
transformation. The brand new – yet already award-winning – hotel, Jackalope, now cuts a striking and mysterious figure on the property; along with fine-dining and already much-revered outfit Doot Doot Doot; and the more casual but equally awe-inspiring eatery, wine bar and produce store, Rare Hare Wine & Food Store. Overlooking the hotel’s striking silhouette against the vineyard-laden hills, the Willow Creek’s makeover has propelled the site into the upper echelons of Victoria’s food and wine industry. “Expanding on the traditional ‘cellar door’ tasting experience, Rare Hare offers two distinct options: the wine bar affords guests the chance to sample in a social setting, while private tastings remain for those who want to delve deeper into an outstanding selection of wines and the vinification (the conversion of the grape juice by fermentation) behind them,” McFaul says. Alongside Willow Creek, McFaul has released a selection of wines under the new Rare Hare label. Extremely drinkable and light on the palate, the Rare Hare range has afforded McFaul the opportunity to employ the creative use of skin contact winemaking methods. These easy drinking
13
wines work well for the Rare Hare restaurant, complementing the diversity of the food on offer at the establishment. Seating 90 people, Rare Hare’s atmosphere and fit-out is warm and welcoming. Under the direction of the Jackalope Hotel’s Executive Chef, Guy Stanaway, the Rare Hare eatery is drawing on a number of cultural influences (as is the way with much modern Australian fare), while capitalising on local produce. A rich duck leg is lacquered with sweet soy and five spice and cooked until tender, then finished in the wood fired oven, where the skin is brought to a crispy caramelised state that you can crack through like the top of a crème brulee. Just as superbly tender is the local squid that is finished on the char grill and served with burned lemon and a squid ink-laden romesco nero. Eggplant is glazed with miso and baked in the wood fire oven, finished with furikake and chilli. For dessert, the vanilla honey panna cotta is made with cream from local producer St David’s, and finished with Balnarring honeycomb, toasted sesame biscuits and shaved caramelised white chocolate. It’s a delicious meal of sharing plates delivered to us with warm and attentive service. Even on the middle of a workday with the pouring rain outside, Rare Hare was absolutely packed out. And with top notch food, wine, service and atmosphere, it’s easy to understand why this place is on the radar of so many, so quickly. Rare Hare is open every day of the week and takes reservations for parties of eight and above, with smaller groups welcomed on a walk-up basis. rarehare.com.au *Gram toured the Mornington Peninsula courtesy of Wine Compass. Find out more at www.winecompass.com.au.
ZO730164
Showcasing SOME of Australia’s independent breweries
BonE NtheD Ihop GO
26 AUGUST 20 BREWERIES, 40 BEERS tickets on sale from 1 june
www.bendigobeer.com
Five minutes with the world’s best bartender
JENNIFER LE NECHET Paris bar Café Moderne’s Head Bartender Jennifer Le Nechet is kicking some serious goals. Currently holding the title of World’s Best Bartender, Le Nechet is the first woman to be awarded the title in spirit conglomerate Diageo’s World Class Competition. Following her huge success in the competition, Le Nechet has been travelling the world as ambassador for the top brands in Diageo’s Reserve spirit portfolio, as well as judging national finales in every corner of the globe. Le Nechet took five minutes out of her busy schedule to have a chat with Gram about all things libations.
How did it feel to be awarded Best Bartender in the World?
What is unique about the French bar scene that you haven’t seen anywhere
It makes me happy and proud. I worked so hard for this competition.
else in the world? We have the chance to [grow] a huge [culture] in spirits and gastronomy.
What has it meant for your career?
We use a lot of the techniques from the [French] kitchen.
Now I’m World Class Ambassador, and I travel to different countries to share my experience with the future candidates, and to judge the national finales.
But now, we live in a very connected world, so we can [be inspired by] anything in any place or country.
Why and how did you become a bartender? I never studied bartending at school. I have a [degree in] Spanish and Latin
We’ve hit winter here in Australia. What are your top picks for spirits, and
American Literature and Civilisation.
cocktails, to drink in the colder months? For winter, I prefer the dark spirits. I like them with spices and sherry.
During my studies, I had the chance to live in Spain for a year, where I discovered a new culture and lifestyle. When I got back to Paris, I decided
What is your favourite cocktail? How do you make it?
to work in the hospitality business.
Negroni!!! I make it with half sherry, half red vermouth. Do you think it’s difficult for women in the bartending business to get ahead? If we are talking about numbers, yes we have more men than women in this industry. Nevertheless, it’s not a man’s world. I’ve never had any difficulties working as a woman in this industry. What’s next for you? Right now I’m still working in Cafe Moderne in Paris, but I’ll be opening my own bar in a few months.
17
MELBOURNE MAKERS AND SHAKERS WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE, HOT BUTTERED BY JACK HAWKINS
When appreciation of an alcohol type rises in an area, the logical next step
BOULEVARDIER
is for local producers to go into business. It’s the pioneers of production
As well as producing their successful single malt whisky, Starward also
that are more interesting however, that rather than jumping on a trend,
offer a pre-made cocktail called Boulevardier. This mix of whisky, Campari
are responsible for being one step ahead of the game. We spoke to two
and sweet vermouth is labeled the Negroni of the whisky world, and
Melbourne makers that have carved out a section of the Australian (and now
literally takes the hassle out of cocktail making. If, however, you wanted
international) market.
to make it from scratch, you can follow these steps.
Melbourne Moonshine and Starward Whisky have different stories – and
INGREDIENTS
products – but they are both proudly Melbourne-based, and constantly
Orange Peel
rising in popularity. After sharing their stories, we asked them to pour us a
30ml Starward Solera
few drinks, and have maintained enough sobriety to share the recipes with
30ml Campari
you.
30ml Sweet Vermouth Or
STARWARD COCKTAILS
Orange Peel 90ml Starward New World Projects - Cask Strength Boulevardier
Cameron Bray, Bartender in Residence at Starward, tells us that the whisky brand embarked on a journey to establish themselves as a ‘uniquely Australian’
METHOD
whisky producer. The state-of-the-art ‘New World’ distillery located in Port
Stir liquid(s) with quality ice to chill. Strain into glass over ice
Melbourne is the new home to the 10-year-old brand, which initially launched
(recommended singular large block). Rub orange peel around the rim.
when the Australian spirit scene was really burgeoning, according to Bray.
Best drunk by itself to really savour it.
While making a dint in defining Aussie whisky, Starward is also breaking
HOMING PIGEON
the misconception that a quality product is only derived from a small-batch
Before it began operation, the Port Melbourne distillery experienced
process.
a
pigeon
problem,
which
inspired
the
name
of
this
cocktail
(although that’s about as close as the association goes). A spin on the Bray tells us; ’There’s been a huge shift in the last decade towards these
Cuban Airmail cocktail, this fluffy, creamy and zingy treat is a little
marketing buzzwords, like handmade, bespoke, boutique,’ which he says is
bit fancy and very easy to throw back. Shaking it forms a certain
great in supporting small, local producers. There is, however, a flip side: “This
emulsion with the carbonation of the ginger beer and creates a light,
misconception has developed that you can’t make a lot of something really
bubbly effect. It’s essential you shake with a big block of ice to get
good, and that scaling up and expanding your production capacity as a rule
this result.
affects your quality, which is not necessarily the case,” says Bray, stating that he believes a big part of quality is choosing great raw materials, and utilising
INGREDIENTS
delicious barrels—such as ones that used to house Barossa Shiraz (Starward
30ml Starward Wine Cask
Wine Cask) or Apera (Australian sherry, used for the Starward Solera).
20ml fresh lime juice
18
19
15ml honey water (equal parts honey and water)
BOOTLEGGER LEMONADE
Ginger beer
Originally Section 8 created a version of this drink, featuring yuzu juice and a lemon syrup, resulting in a much sweeter overall flavour. “One of the things
METHOD
we get asked all the time is; ‘How do you drink moonshine?’” Fitzgerald tells
Shake Starward Wine Cask, lime juice, honey water and ginger beer with
us, which prompted them to update this recipe as a cocktail that any bar (or
ice, then strain into a cold glass. Perfect with fatty food due to its acidity.
someone at home) could make. The Bootlegger Lemonade is refreshing, tart, and it’s definitely got a kick.
MELBOURNE MOONSHINE INGREDIENTS From moonshine-making back in his youth in South Carolina, Ben Bowles
1 Highball glass
decided to go into business with then-colleague (now partner-in-shine),
3-4 dashes of Melbourne Mister Bitters Grapefruit and Agave (or you can use
Andrew Fitzgerald. Generally unimpressed with the market saturation
the peach or orange bitters)
of mass-produced whisky, Fitzgerald and Bowles started craft-distillery
30ml lemon juice
Melbourne Moonshine.
30ml Sour Mash Shine Ice to the top
Moonshine is essentially white whisky which was originally made in
Top with lemonade (recommend a dryer, less-sweet brand such as Capi)
secret during the prohibition era, but it continued on as a clandestine
Orange wedge to serve
and somewhat bathtub-in-the-backwoods American tradition. From the original Sour Mash Shine to the steeped in black tea Sweet Tea Shine, all
METHOD
the way to an Apple Pie Shine that’s reminiscent of Christmas, the craft
Add Sour Mash Shine, lemon juice and bitters to the glass. Top with ice, then
drops by the boys at Melbourne Moonshine are unique and increasingly
fill with lemonade. Garnish with orange wedge.
receiving public approval Australia wide. Variation: While some of our favourite bars such as Henry Sugar, Nieuw Amsterdam
JOHN DALY
and Black Pearl serve up the smashing shine, here are a few recipes you
Technically based on an ‘Arnold Palmer’ mocktail – named after the non-
can make for yourself at home. To see where you can buy Melbourne
drinking golfer who would consume an iced-tea lemonade – the alcoholic
Moonshine by the bottle, check their website for stockists.
version is respectively named after golfer John Daly. This slightly sweeter version of the Bootlegger Lemonade evokes warm southern flavours. Using the same recipe as the Bootlegger Lemonade, substitute the Sour Mash Shine with the Sweet Tea Shine, and the grapefruit and agave bitters with orange bitters.
20
Fitzgerald recommends fatty foods with either drink to contrast the sweet acidity, such as pizza or even Belle’s Hot Chicken (where they serve a version of the lemonade with Sour Mash Shine). Both cocktails are perfect for making in bulk, Sangria-style, with chunks of fresh orange. A great idea for barbecues. HOT BUTTERED MOONSHINE Developed by a bartender and friend of the boys at Melbourne Moonshine, a fellow named Wizey at bar Hats and Tatts created this winter warmer. It may be small, but it’s sweet, rich and all the right sorts of wicked. INGREDIENTS 60mls Apple Pie Shine 2 dashes of orange bitters 7-10ml sugar syrup Heaped bar spoon of salted butter Orange twist METHOD Heat all ingredients until warm and butter melted. flame orange twist, rub around the rim and discard. Ideal for sipping whilst nibbling on blue cheese and pear, Fitzgerald recommends something creamy and crisp to cut through the richness. STARWARD.COM.AU MELBOURNEMOONSHINE.COM
CREATING THE PERFECT GIN AND TONIC Sam Ng of Four Pillars in Healesville gives us a masterclass on crafting the perfect gin and tonic.
LISTEN TO YOUR PALATE
Are your flavours going to be contradictory, or complementary? You
A big part of it is the enjoyment someone has when they drink a
could choose a garnish that would be completely juxtaposing the
particular drink, as everybody’s palate is going to be a little different.
flavour of the gin, and you might really enjoy that; or you could find
I think the biggest thing to consider is what you like to drink. Do you
one that’s very complementary. Given orange is something that we
like to drink things that are a bit sweet, a bit more floral, a bit bitter?
use in the making of our gin, we’ll often garnish with oranges [for the
Considering that, choose your gin to match what you enjoy drinking.
flavours to be complementary].
For instance, you might like that citrusy big round Mediterranean/ Asian flavour [found in] Four Pillars gin.
If you drink something like Bombay Sapphire, which is a more classic-style gin, the juniper presence is much stronger. Everyone has
22
PAY ATTENTION TO BOTANICALS
it with lime, but I actually think it’s significantly better with lemon.
You need to match your gin with your tonic, and then match the
That particular citrus matches the botanicals that are in Bombay
garnishes to the gin and tonic. How is it going to be on the palate?
Sapphire itself.
So you look at the gin. Four Pillars is a modern style of gin, so
DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF A GOOD ICE CUBE
the botanicals are a bit different, but you look at something very
Using good quality ice is one of the most important things when
classic like Gordon’s or Beefeater, or I guess more modern classics
making a gin and tonic, meaning good quality water has been used
like Bombay Sapphire, and the ingredients they use, and the style
to make the ice cubes, and the ice hasn’t been shattered down like
and the method with which they’re producing the gin, generally
a Slurpee.
lean towards really classic flavours like lemon, which suits really well as opposed to something super wacky. You’re not going to
The smaller the chunks of ice, the more surface area there is to
put something like eggplant into Bombay Sapphire as a garnish, for
interact. The biggest enemy of a great gin and tonic is people can
instance, because there’s no reason for those flavours to be there.
over dilute the gin, leaving it sitting on water for too long. The ice
They’re not complementary in any way. Even as a contradictory
cubes make a huge difference. When you go to a good bar, they
flavour, it’s just too much.
have huge ice cubes and the cubes are clear. One of the best gin and tonics you’ll get is from the Everleigh in Melbourne, the main reason
CHOOSE YOUR GARNISH
being that the ice cubes they use are absolutely clear. There’s no
I think that people default to lime because they think that lime is
impurities in that block. So what you’re tasting does not change with
the great equaliser. You know, people drink vodka, lime and sodas.
impurities as the ice goes through the dilution stages.
Gin and tonic with lime. But actually, the flavour in lime skin is quite tannic, and it’s a bit bitter. Even though it’s really robust and it’s a
To make your ice cubes at home, boil your water first to get rid of
sweet, fleshy fruit, the actual lime oils are quite aggressive.
impurities, and then make your ice in a large format. You can go buy those plastic two-inch moulds, or just get a Tupperware container,
The citrus flavours in lemon and grapefruit are quite different in the
pour the water into that, stick it into the freezer, and when you take it
way that they [hit] your palate. So as I say, we use oranges in our
out, use a heavy spoon to break it into big, jagged chunks. Then you
rare dry gin distillation but also our garnish. But we’re quite happy
get big blocks of jagged ice, it looks cool, and it’s cheap.
to put pink grapefruit into a lot of our garnishes and a lot of our gin because it’s a soft, delicate citrus. The lemon works pretty well
MAKING THE DRINK
across the board. But if you look at our Spiced Negroni Gin, we use
Don’t drown it in tonic. One of the secrets, like anything, is balance.
pink grapefruit to accompany that, because it’s softer and the gin
Once you’ve figured out what kind of gin to tonic ratio you like, stick
itself is very broad and dynamic on the palate. So if you put a big,
with that. I generally tell people to start with two and a half to three
intense garnish with it, you almost blow yourself out of the flavour
parts tonic, to one part gin, so around 30 millilitres of gin to 100
game and make it too much.
millilitres of tonic water.
CHOOSE YOUR TONIC
If you’re going to have a 3:1 ratio, choose a middle-sized glass; if
At Four Pillars, we do a lot of work with Fever Tree, because they are
you’re going to have it 2:1, choose a very short glass.
the number one craft tonic in the world and their stuff is sensational. But there are people that like a classic taste, which means using tonic
Having less tonic means that there’s more time for the drink to open
that is high in quinine. So companies like Kirks and Schweppes suit
up. When you’re not drowning it in tonic, you’re not washing those
some gins better than other gins. The classic London drys suit those
flavours away. You can still taste the gin, you can taste the tonic, and
tonic waters because both the flavours are robust.
you’ve got good quality ice, which will stay on an undiluted level for a while.
The Mediterranean Fever Tree perfectly suits our rare dry gin because the flavours in our rare dry aren’t aggressive. They’re present and
To prepare the drink, start with the gin, then pour in your tonic, and
they’re strong, but they aren’t really raw or rough. The Mediterranean
then put the ice in afterwards. If you pour your gin over ice cubes,
tonic has got less quinine and needs less sugar, which means that it’s
you’re diluting the gin because the gin is warmer then the ice.
light on the palate and the finish of the gin and tonic is much cleaner
Likewise, if you pour tonic over the ice cubes, you’re creating more
than it might be with a high sugar, high juniper gin.
surface area for those bubbles to bubble up so the carbonation is lost.
If you look at the back of soda bottles, the labels give you the breakdown of how much sugar is in the product. Coca Cola’s about
For a citrus garnish, cut a nice little wedge and squeeze it in so that
16.3 grams of sugar in it per 100 millilitres. Schweppes and Kirks are
you get the full amount of juice in there and it has the full effect.
up there at about 15.6, 15.7 grams, and Fever Tree is about 10 grams. This will relate to how much quinine is in the tonic water. The more quinine you put in, the more sugar you need to put in, because you have to balance out the sweet and the bitter.
23
MELBOURNE’S BEST HIDDEN BARS Melbourne is famous for its laneway bar culture and speakeasy-style bars, but there are some that are just a bit more hidden than the average. Whether it’s access through a bookshelf, a takeaway pizza joint or a fridge, Lisa Holmen rounds up the best bars to get lost in this winter.
THE EVERLEIGH
BEHIND PIZZA PIZZA PIZZA BAR
It may be one of Melbourne’s worst kept secrets, but there’s no denying
It may just look like a hole-in-the-wall pizza shop, but there’s more to Pizza
it’s one of our favourites. Located on Gertrude Street just above Belle’s Hot
Pizza Pizza than meets the eye. Ask nicely to see the ‘secret menu’, and a
Chicken, this speakeasy-style bar is the place to come for epic cocktails.
hidden world will be revealed behind a black curtain. This dimly lit cocktail
It’s a beautiful venue, full of “olde-worlde” charm, cosy leather booths and
bar of no name specialises in retro-inspired cocktails like the Rusty Nail,
candlelight. Perch at the long marble bar and sip on a classic cocktail from
Pina Colada and Alabama Slammer to keep you going till the wee hours
the golden era like a Sazerac or an Old Fashioned. Or you can leave it up
of the morning. It’s the kind of place you could come by yourself and feel
to the experts: whisper your poison of choice to the bartender, and they
completely at home, thanks to some of the friendliest bartenders in town
will create your perfect drop. Ice is cut to order, fruit is freshly squeezed…
and a pretty funky sound track. Don’t leave home without getting a slice
it doesn’t get much better than this. This may just be up there as one of
or two of the New York-style pizza.
Melbourne’s best bars. 16 Meyers Pl, Melbourne VIC 3000 Upstairs, 150-156 Gertrude St. Fitzroy, 3065 theeverleigh.com
24
pizzapizzapizza.com.au
LOCH AND KEY
BAR AMERICANO
Hidden upstairs from Captain Melville’s (which occupies Melbourne’s
It may be one of Melbourne’s smallest bars, but what it doesn’t have in
oldest pub) is another one of Melbourne’s best secret bars, mysteriously
size it sure makes up for in charm. The laneway bar is the brainchild of
concealed behind a bookshelf. Loch and Key is cosily furnished with private
Matt Bax, the genius behind the Tippling Club in Singapore and Gamsei in
booths and plenty of wood, which gives it a cabin-in-the-woods kind of
Munich. Located down a laneway off Little Street, the bar is standing room
feel. A definite highlight is the spacious veranda, which is the perfect spot
only, with room for just ten patrons, so it can be tough to nab a space.
to down a few bevvies and ogle at the sky high views over the city. As for food, the bar keeps it pretty simple with gourmet toasties and antipasto-
Paying homage to the golden age of drinking and Bax’s favourite Venetian
style plates.
Bar, Harry’s Bars, the American Bar is the place to come for seriously good classic cocktails, which rotate with the seasons. Our favourite is the
Upstairs 34 Franklin St, Melbourne VIC 3000
namesake Americano with Italian bitters, house-infused vermouth, citrus
lochandkey.com.au
and soda.
JUNGLE BOY
Just make sure you don’t take photos; you may not be invited back. Look for the blue TABBACHI sign at the end of the laneway.
Entry through a coolroom? That’s as cool as it gets in Melbourne’s bar scene on Chapel Street. Enter Jungle Boy through the faux fridge at
20 Presgrave Place, Melbourne 3000
sub sandwich joint Boston Sub, and you’ll soon find a bar full of tropical
Baramericano.com
greenery and taxidermy. Get your drinking boots on and sip on modern takes on classics like the Hemingway Spritz or a lychee and rose-infused daiquiri. Don’t miss the pulled pork sub and the Jabba The Hut poutine from the fast food joint out the front. Get there early if you can – the only downside is limited seating. 96 Chapel Street, Windsor 3181
With no signage to give it away, Eau De Vie on Malthouse Lane is definitely one of the best in Melbourne.
jboy.com.au
25
BERLIN BAR Experience the juxtaposition of East and West Berlin at Berlin Bar on Corrs Lane. When you see Fad Gallery, head up the stairwell and ring the mysterious doorbell. If you’re lucky and survive the ‘peep hole’ test you
Ask nicely to see the ‘secret menu’ at Pizza Pizza Pizza and a hidden world will be revealed behind a black curtain.
will be whisked upstairs, where a bar split into East and West Berlin will be revealed. On the West side, it’s all about opulence with sophisticated
of old traditional crafts, and traces the history of cocktails through past
banquettes and crystal curtains; while beyond the wall on the East, the
decades. A must-try is the Espresso Zabaione – a fancy espresso cocktail
room is furnished with crates and steel bunk beds. Try the ‘Waldmeister’;
of sorts, layered with a saffron and vanilla mousse and super-chilled with
a delicious concoction of pear-infused Cognac mixed with Lillet Blanc and
liquid nitrogen.
a plum reduction, topped up with French sparkling and garnished with a wild berry foam. Sweet tooths will love the Berliner, inspired by the famous
Whisky aficionados will love the range on offer, with a choice of hundreds
Berliner Pfannkuchen doughnut.
of single malts from the lowlands to the highlands. If you’re hungry, there’s also a sumptuous five-course meal to feast on, paired with cocktails
16 Corrs Lane 3000 Melbourne, VIC
designed by Eau De Vie’s award-winning bartenders.
berlinbar.com.au 1 Malthouse Ln, Melbourne VIC 3000 BACK ALLEY SALLY’S
eaudevie.com.au/melbourne
What was once an abandoned warehouse in Footscray has been restored
HIHOU
to its former glory thanks to the addition of Back Alley Sally’s and pizza joint Slice Girls West. Here it’s all about local beers like Footscray Ale, Two
At the top end of Flinders Lane, Japanese-inspired bar and restaurant,
Birds and Sunshine Lager. Still retaining its warehouse feel, the bar is fitted
Hihou sits behind a black unmarked door. All you have to do is press the
with industrial lights, recycled furniture and astro turf. It’s the perfect spot
buzzer and you will be ushered in by the door staff. Inside it’s elegant,
to drink west side. Hungry? Pick up some slices of pizza and nachos from
sophisticated and oh-so-sexy. The best seats in the house are the window
Slice Girls West downstairs. Enter via the back alley near Footscray Station.
seats overlooking Spring Street and the Treasury Gardens. Indulge in Japanese liquor, beer and of course, plum wine and sake. Cocktails
Downstairs - 4 Yewers Street Footscray 3011
are given a Japanese twist, like the Negro-kan – a twist on the classic
backalleysallys.com.au/
Negroni; and the popular Hihoutini – a beautiful concoction of sake, gin and elderflower. After a couple, you could trick your mind into thinking
EAU DE VIE
you are in the streets of Tokyo. Hihou also doubles as a restaurant if you’re looking to stay for dinner, where the food ranges from bar snacks to more
With no signage to give it away, this prohibition-style speakeasy on
substantial mains.
Malthouse Lane is definitely one of the best in Melbourne. Look out for a large wooden door under the solitary lantern for entry into this jazz-
First floor, 1 Flinders Lane, Melbourne 3000
infused drinking den. The extensive cocktail list is inspired by a range
hihou.com.au
26
BRINGING YOUR BRAND TO LIFE
FOOD, BEVERAGE & RETAIL ACTIVATIONS
Combining creative ideas, technology, design & excellence in activation fit-out using recycled shipping containers.
www.shippingcontaineractivation.com.au
THINGS WE LOVE
CRAFTD GLASSWARE Every beer lover has their own collection
Contrary to the commercials you see from
of pint and pot glasses sitting at their
big beer advertising, there’s plenty of
house. Whether they’ve moved around with
evidence to show why drinking good beer
them since their early 20s or triumphantly
from a glass is better than straight from a
smuggled them out of a hip craft beer bar,
bottle. It’s all about the physics – the more
a beer glassware collection is a window into
surface area there is, the more friction you
the past, present and future of a person’s
have. Friction helps you pour a pint with
into exciting new combinations. Around the World in
beer journey.
great foamy head, where all of the aroma is.
80 Cocktails celebrates the globetrotting history of the
The type of glass you use has the ability to
cocktail’s journey around the world from the early 19th
make or break the enjoyment of your beer.
through to the 21st century, detailing the colourful tales
Thanks to Australia’s growing affection for
AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 COCKTAILS Travel has always been a part of the cocktail’s DNA. Born in England and raised in America, the cocktail takes influences from all over the world and mixes them up
behind 80 excellent libations.
drinking beer differently, the vessel in which the delicious amber liquid is delivered has
Over the past couple of years, we’ve seen
become more important, and more diverse,
specially designed glasses to suit IPAs and
than ever.
stouts, following on from the traditional Belgian ale glasses. While I personally like the
Along with easy-to-follow recipes and the story behind each cocktail, you will learn about the surprising military history behind the bubbly, vivacious Venetian Spritz; how
There is a wide variety of beer glassware
idea of a different glass for each style, which
available for you to choose from, and they
sometimes makes for an interesting drinking
each have their own unique characteristics.
session, I have a dishwashing machine at
Ben from CRAFTD Glassware is passionate
home so my opinion is somewhat biased.
about
experience
According to Ben, the CRAFTD philosophy
with quality glassware. “Each piece in our
is much simpler. “We do not select our glass
With gorgeous, old world-y illustrations by Alice Oehr,
glass collection is selected based on a few
to suit a particular style, because we live
tips on bartending techniques and equipment as well as
characteristics. First we ask, ‘Does this glass
in a new world of new and awesome craft
advice on creating a well-stocked home bar, this book
make for a rad drinking experience?’ Then
beers; so we don’t want to box in any beer
we ensure that the glass structure is tough
glasses to a particular style. Use our glasses
enough to last, but sophisticated enough
for whatever craft beer you like! They are
for even the most expensive beers around.
designed to be enjoyed.” Cheers!
improving
the
beer
Finally, we print the glass appropriate to the style, to subtly make a stamp on what might
www.craftdglass.com
the G&T moved from India to England (and why the best in the world are now made in Spain); and how France’s Burgundy region turned tragedy into triumph with the Kir.
is the perfect companion for budding bartenders, travel aficionados and cocktail connoisseurs alike.
Check out the recipes from Chad Parkhill’s book featured in this edition!
not conventionally be thought of as a beer glass.” 28
www.hardiegrant.com
BROOKIE’S SLOW GIN Made in the hinterland of Byron Bay at Cape Byron Distillery, Brookie’s Gin is one of the new kids on the block among the ever-evolving Australian Craft Spirits landscape. Created by the Brook Family in partnership with world award-winning distiller Jim McEwan, this family-owned distillery has burst onto the scene, picking up a gold medal at both the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and most recently, the internationally acclaimed SIP awards. The Brook family has been passionately regenerating rainforest on their farm for the past 30 years, and it is from this very rainforest where many of the flavours for Brookie’s Gin are sourced. The latest offering is Brookie’s Slow Gin, a all-Australian twist on an all-Australian traditional sloe-style gin using the native Davidson Plum, which grows in the subtropical rainforest around the Byron Bay region. The Brook family steep these plums in their Byron Dry Gin and let time weave its flavourful magic over a six-month period. Expect exhilarating flavours of bright plum, watermelon and rose in this limited release. www.capebyrondistillery.com
DOCTOR Gothenburg, Sweden
Swedish punsch – a liqueur traditionally served hot alongside yellow pea soup on Thursday nights – is about as Swedish as … well, nasi goreng. Swedish punsch is, in fact, based on the fearsomely brawny spirit Batavia arrack (see page 129), an Indonesian proto-rum made from molasses, red rice and palm wine. Swedish sailors developed a taste for punch made from Batavia arrack while plying the high seas in the early 18th century; by 1733, demand in Sweden was strong enough for the Swedish East India Company to begin importing arrack to the port town of Gothenburg. A warming bowl of hot arrack punch soon became a Swedish tradition. The problem with arrack punch, though, is that it’s a bit of a pain to prepare. You have to make an oleo-saccharum (a syrup of sugar dissolved in aromatic citrus oils, juice lemons, add arrack and spices, and then combine the lot with hot water or tea. Wouldn’t it be easier if there were a pre-mixed and bottled punch base of arrack, citrus, sugar and spices – just add hot water? Johan Cederlund, a wine and spirit merchant, started selling his own pre-mixed arrack punch base in 1845. Although this‘punsch’was intended to be lengthened with hot water, Swedes found they preferred it as a liqueur, often sipped cold and undiluted alongside coffee. By the 1850s, several competing brands of Cederlund’s invention were being produced. INGREDIENTS The popularity of this punsch liqueur didn’t go unnoticed in the United
45 ml Swedish punsch
States, and by the start of the 20th century it was being called for in a small
22 ml dark rum
number of different cocktails. But punsch’s time came to an end in 1917,
7 ml lemon juice
when the Swedish state monopolised the trade and distribution of alcohol
7 ml lime juice
through its Systembolaget, and many brands moved their production to
7 ml orange juice
Finland as a result. Prohibition followed. It would take later interest from
lemon peel, to garnish
tiki bartenders – particularly Trader Vic – to restore Swedish punsch to the American bartender’s pantheon.
METHOD Build ingredients in a cocktail shaker.
The Doctor cocktail first appears in Hugo Ensslin’s 1916 book Recipes for
Add ice and shake thoroughly to chill.
Mixed Drinks as a simple blend of Swedish punsch and lime juice. This
Double-strain into a chilled coupe glass.
version, which incorporates improvements made by Trader Vic, is a little
Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.
more complex and satisfying. This is an edited extract from Around the World in 80 Cocktails by Chad Parkhill with illustrations by Alice Oehr published by Hardie Grant Books $29.99 and is available in stores nationally. Illustrator: © Alice Oehr
30
SAZERAC New Orleans, USA
But two twists of fate awaited the drink that would come to be called the Sazerac: phylloxera and the absinthe panic. The phylloxera louse, an American grape parasite that was introduced to Europe in the middle of the 19th century, devastated Europe’s wine industry, and therefore its brandy industry. With French brandy a rarity, New Orleans bartenders started making cocktails with American rye whiskey instead. The rarity of French wine and brandy also partly led to the increased popularity of absinthe in France. Known for its high alcohol content and the potentially hallucinogenic properties created by the inclusion of wormwood (hence its nickname la fée verte, or the green fairy), absinthe consumption soon led to a moral panic. Thus many recipes for the Sazerac call for Herbsaint (a wormwood-free absinthe substitute) rather than absinthe itself. The Sazerac’s name first appeared in print in 1899 – prior to when absinthe bans kicked in – and early recipes didn’t always call specifically for Peychaud’s bitters. Rather than aiming for an illusory authenticity, this version of the Sazerac uses a split base of cognac and rye whiskey, plus some absinthe and an extra dash of Angostura bitters, to reflect this noble drink’s chequered history. INGREDIENTS 30 ml cognac 30 ml rye whiskey The Sazerac, the official cocktail of New Orleans, took many years to be
7 ml simple syrup
established as a separate drink from the Whiskey Cocktail (which itself
2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
eventually came to be called the Old Fashioned (see page 18). The Sazerac
1 dash aromatic bitters (optional)
traces its lineage back to the 1830s, when New Orleans–based apothecary
5 ml absinthe (or Herbsaint)
Antoine Amedie Peychaud developed the proprietary bitters that now
1 twist of lemon peel
bear his name. These bitters were whipped up into a cocktail alongside some sugar, water and a hefty dose of French brandy – preferably cognac
METHOD
from the Sazerac de Forge et Fils company, which would eventually lend
Build all ingredients except absinthe in a mixing glass. Rinse a chilled Old
this drink its name. By 1843 you could find many New Orleans bars adding
Fashioned glass with the absinthe, coating all the surfaces, and discard
a dash of absinthe, and something approaching the modern Sazerac was
the excess. Add ice to the mixing glass and stir cocktail until chilled.
born.
Strain cocktail into absinthe-rinsed glass. Express the oils from a twist of lemon peel over the surface of the drink and either discard the twist or rest it on the rim of the glass.
This is an edited extract from Around the World in 80 Cocktails by Chad Parkhill with illustrations by Alice Oehr published by Hardie Grant Books $29.99 and is available in stores nationally. Illustrator: © Alice Oehr
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REVIEWS RUMBLE COFFEE ROASTERS - SHADOW BOXER BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
Combining their extensive experience in the
Rumble’s ethos is about keeping specialty coffee
coffee industry, Stan Bicknell, Matt Hampton and
simple, approachable and not over-informing
Joe Molloy joined forces to start their very own
customers about flavour profiles that won’t show
roasting business in 2014. Feeling a little feisty,
up in the cup. This is what attracted Evan Lindau
they wanted to create winning coffee that would
and his partner Georgie Bott to the roaster when
knock out the competition. With a punchy logo of
they opened Staple in Fitzroy Street St Kilda in late
two red boxing gloves, it’s no wonder they called
2016. At Staple, Lindau and Bott highlight good
themselves Rumble.
quality produce and offer uncomplicated classic food. The couple decided to go with Rumble’s
In a city that lives and breathes specialty coffee,
Shadow Boxer, an old school espresso style blend,
it’s hard to be different. Most roasters offer
perfect for milk-based coffees and a combination
everything but the kitchen sink, so it’s not easy
of washed beans from PNG and a pulped natural
to command attention, especially if you’re the
from Brazil.
new kid on the block. Some very cool packaging both for wholesale and retail, together with strong
The coffee is also available to take home from
branding helps to convey the message that these
the providore section of the cafe, alongside other
guys mean business.
tasty products. Atmosphere-wise, the space has a beautiful open feel, overlooking the park with
Perhaps most importantly, Rumble understand this
views across to the city. The couple have made sure
is a tough industry to survive in, both for themselves
the place doesn’t feel sterile despite its apartment
and their clients. Cafes open and close often mostly
block location – on the contrary, Staple is warm
because of poor planning and implementation,
and inviting.
and in many cases, when the owners have never The Shadow Boxer blend is available at: Staple - 183 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda Bourke & Wills - Goldsbrough Lane, 550 Bourke St, CBD Market Espresso - Queen Victoria Market Middle Child - 327 Maribyrnong Rd, Ascot Vale Jaspresso - 91-93 Flemington Rd, Nth Melbourne
worked in hospitality. So with Stan and Joe having
Lindau believes too many cafe owners have
run their own cafes and espresso bars and Matt an
forgotten what the word hospitality actually
ex-chef, they have expertise in all aspects of the
means: that you need to look after your customers,
industry, from layout to fit-out; and they can assist
so that they in turn will look after you. Giving them
their clients with machinery, training and service. In
awesome coffee, while important, is only one part
their minds, if the customer’s business is a success,
of a much bigger picture. This is a perfect example
it’s a win-win situation.
of a symbiotic relationship where cafe and roaster support each other, and proves that the new kids
www.rumblecoffee.com.au
on the block can fight and win.
LUCY M…….. 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC WORDS LAUREN BRUCE It’s not news to anyone that the Adelaide Hills are producing
is the delicious Lucy M……. 2016 Sauvignon Blanc. Quirkily
some of the country’s very best wine. Further still, the
named and labelled, the exterior reflects the interior. This
Basket Range that sits within the region is home to a
groundbreaking wine is such easy drinking and so delicious
small community of winemakers that are now renowned
it goes down just like water. Not your standard sauv blanc,
in Australia’s winemaking industry as some of the heaviest
the texture is like fresh cloudy apple juice and the flavour
hitters of the natural winemaking movement.
is ever-so-slightly stonefruity, with a refreshing, almost salty but not-at-all citrusy zing.
Perhaps one of the more prominent characters at the helm of this community is Anton Klopper with his Lucy
Look, if you’re a hardcore traditional sauv blanc drinker,
Margaux Vineyards. Aiming to produce wines that “express
you’re going to have to open your mind a little bit and let go
themselves,” Klopper doesn’t add any yeast, bacteria, acid,
of your preconceptions to enjoy this one. But once you do,
or other artificial or natural additives to his products.
and you try the Lucy M……. interpretation of the variety, you probably won’t look back.
While many of his wines have included a small amount of
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sulphur added at the end of the fermentation process, the
Lucy M……. 2016 Sauvignon Blanc
label’s most recent releases (the newly-titled Lucy M…….
RRP: $29.00
wines) have included no sulphur at all, not least of which
www.lucymargauxvineyards.com
BAR/D UP VIDEO REVIEW: WHITE OAKS SALOON Known as one of New Mexico’s ghost towns, White Oaks was once a hunting ground for American Indians before it became a bustling mining town in the late 1800s. If you close your eyes you can just picture it; like something straight out of a Western movie, complete with a gambling parlour, brothel and of course, a saloon. Inspired by the town and with a love of American craft spirits, brothers Nick and Tom Welch (who also own The Silverlake Social) brought a little piece of New Mexico to Prahran when they opened White Oaks Saloon Bar & Dining back in 2014. Greville Street is one of those strips that’s sometimes buzzing, but often a little sleepy – the perfect place for warm and inviting local with swinging saloon doors. There’s one thing the brothers do very well, and that’s service. A watchful eye always ensures the Southern-style food coming out of the kitchen is consistent and quality, and the same goes for behind the bar, where drinks are carefully prepared using some very unique products, sourced from the US and Mexico and distributed by the boys under their brand High Spirits Beverages. There’s a wide selection of imported beers
THE WHITE OAKS SALOON
as well as cocktails and shooters that are crafted to celebrate the flavours of The
115 - 117 Greville Street, Prahran
Americas and complement the food.
Ph: 8395 5719 www.whiteoakssaloon.com.au
Take the time to sit at the bar, look up at all the bottles you’ve never seen before. Ask the bartender for a recommendation, and if you’re lucky it will be a deliciously smooth bourbon or rye, something to transport you to the Old West. Here, your thirst will be
Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video review
quenched and your hunger satisfied. Just remember to hang up your holster on the hooks beside the door... unless you’re the sheriff, of course.
BROOKES BROWN ALE WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
Remember the old days before New-England-sludgy-fruity IPAs and double-triplehopped-barrel-aged unicorn tears were all the rage and we used to drink Brown Ale? Well, with the frosty night’s well and truly upon us, it’s a perfect time to be reacquainted with this trusty (or should I say, toasty) companion for winter. A good brown ale can ignite or reinvigorate your love of the darker styles and this month, I’ve chosen one of the better Australian examples getting around: Brookes Brown Ale. Bendigo is a regional city that has enjoyed a significant craft beer boom since 2011, thanks to the efforts of some passionate locals. But it’s fair to say most of the action is still predominantly found in the city’s edgier pubs and bars. While the city has seven breweries within 90km, only one is situated in Bendigo itself. Doug Brooke has always been a keen homebrewer, and made the jump from the corporate world to officially open Brookes Brewery in 2013 at Mayfair Park Industrial Estate.
Ok, so it smells great, but how does it taste? You’ll adore the full, roasted malt, chocolate experience, and its surprisingly light body allows you to enjoy more than one.
Brookes Brown Ale is described by Doug as an English Brown Ale, almost a Porter given its opaqueness, thin mocha head and low carbonation. Personally, I’m not overly
See Brookes Brewery at one of Australia’s best winter beer festivals, Bendigo On The
bothered which box it fits in – in isolation, this beer is a delight to drink. As it is 100%
Hop, on Saturday 26 August. Tickets from www.bendigobeer.com
bottle conditioned, you may find yeast sediment hiding at the bottom when pouring into a glass. I highly recommend swirling that last quarter of the beer in the bottle
Brookes Brown Ale
before pouring to enjoy the full flavour.
ABV: 5.2% Style: English Brown
The head disappears not long after pouring so make sure you have plenty of room left
Serving Temp: 6 degrees
in your glass to swirl and aggravate. You really want to give yourself the best chance
Food match: Roast pork, Gouda cheese or almond cake
to enjoy the coffee, toffee sweetness and ever-so-subtle English earthy hop aroma.
Origin: Bendigo, Victoria | RRP: $22 for 6pack 330ml www.brookesbeer.com.au
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OUT AND ABOUT WORLD GIN DAY 2017
PHOTOGRAPHY DS IMAGES - DEAN SCHMIDEG
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Gin Palace hosted World Gin Day for the fourth year in June, continuing the tradition in their usual cheeky style. It was Arabian Nights meets Burlesque with a fantastic performance from the Plymouth Gin team and their highly pleasurable martini massages. Hendricks hosted a little tea party serving up cups of their very tasty punch and 2-for-1 drinks were on offer all afternoon. Dean Schmideg went behind the scenes to snap Melbourne’s gin-loving public…
THE DIARY
July 21, 2017
2017 TOUR DE FRANCE LUNCH Peninsula Shed 14, Central Pier 161 Harbour Esplande, Docklands
Launched in 2003 to celebrate ‘La Grande Boucle’, the Tour de France Lunch is celebrating its 14th anniversary! One of the highlights in both Melbourne’s cycling community and the corporate sector’s calendars, the 2017 Tour de France Lunch will take place on Friday 21 July at Peninsula, Docklands from 11:30 am to 3:30 pm. A partnership between Cycling Australia, SBS and BMC. The event is not only a great opportunity to share your cycling passion with well-known professional cyclists, but also a chance to network with more than 600 guests from the French-Australian community. This year, guests have the honour of welcoming The Hon. John Eren MP, Minister for Sport, and Minister for Tourism and Major Events, to celebrate our two countries shared passion of “La Grande Boucle”. The gastronomic French five-course lunch is designed to delight foodies. Hosted by Gabriel Gaté, there will be plenty of entertainment at the Tour de France lunch including an exclusive panel discussion with famous professional cyclists who’ll share their own unique insights into the race. This year, there will also be a silent auction, with part of the proceeds being donated to charity partner, Tour de Cure. You could have the chance to win authentic French products, well-known wine from top wine estates and lots more! www.facci.com.au
July 13, 2017
KIDS IN THE KITCHEN JACICAN JUNIOR MASTERCHEF COOK OFF
July 14 - 16, 2017
32 Giles Street, Miraboo North
Bendigo Showgrounds, Bendigo, Victoria
Do you have a budding MasterChef in your house? Send them along to test their cooking skills in the kitchen. In the morning Jacican will be hosting a cook-off of your junior Masterchef’s best main meal. They will have a celebrity judge on hand to pick their favourite. Your budding Masterchef will have full access to the Jacican pantry to design, create and cook a winning meal. They will be required to cook two serves - one for tasting and judging, and the other to be photographed on the day. Pantry items: All the herbs and spices you can think of, plain, self raising, corn and gluten free flour, chocolate, arrowroot and what ever else your kids can find in the kitchen’s pantry. If there is any speciality ingredient that they will require, please let Jacican know when booking and they will endeavour to have it available.
BENDIGO FESTIVAL OF LAMB The Festival of Lamb takes centre stage in Bendigo this July. Lamb is an iconic national dish and for generations, loving prime lamb is as Aussie as it gets. Australians are also rapid embracers of what many cultures and immigrant communities have brought to the tables. Part of the Australian Sheep and Wool Show, this years’ Festival of Lamb will take a culinary journey through the world of flavours and dishes that exists in your own backyard – from how grandma perfected the cooking of every cut, to some wonderful insights into a multi-cultural approach and even today’s school children bringing a modern twist in a junior cooking contest. Follow the aromas to learn, taste and take home some top tips from the experts. For more information and other events during the Australian Sheep and Wool visit: www.sheepshow.com
Price: $42pp jacican.com.au
July 22, 2017
BAROSSA. BE CONSUMED. Meat Market, North Melbourne
July 22, 2017
PREMIUM BORDEAUX WINE DINNER Royal Mail Hotel, 98 Parker Street, Dunkeld
July 26, 2017
NATIVE FLAVOURS USE AUSTRALIAN NATIVE INGREDIENTS AND SEASONAL QUALITY LOCAL PRODUCE The Neff Market Kitchen, South Melbourne Market
A truly special event to celebrate the Royal Mail’s internationally awarded wine collection. Indulge in six courses, each matched with two wines. Highlights of the evening will include:
Andy Harmer’s (executive chef, The Point Albert Park) innovative cooking style is influenced by his clever use of Australian native ingredients and seasonal quality local produce. Join his class to experience a menu featuring smoked wallaby tartare and saltbush; crab, kohlrabi with finger lime and Davidson plum; braised short rib with leek ash and lemon myrtle; and to finish, an impressive strawberry eucalyptus Bombe Alaska.
Chateau Margaux 2003 Chateau Latour 2005 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1er A 2003 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2003 Chateau Ausone 1er A 2000 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2000 Chateau d’Yquem 2001.
$140pp southmelbournemarket.com.au/event/stylish-menunative-flavours/
Tickets include overnight accommodation and breakfast. $2300pp (based on twin share/double). Solo supplement available. www.royalmail.com.au
The name says it all really, doesn’t it? The Barossa is a region that captivates the imagination, and has an unrivalled bounty of wine, beauty, culture, and produce to offer. The ‘Barossa. Be Consumed’ event is a one day celebration of all the things that define this truly unique and special region. Not just a tasting of the region’s brilliant wines, ‘Barossa. Be Consumed’ also offers an immersion into the food, culture, history and character of what makes up this incredible region. Your ticket includes: A Plumm wine glass to taste from and to take home, all wine tastings and various food and drink samples. Patrons can also purchase further food, other kinds of drinks, and wine to take home. Early bird tickets $55 | General admission $65 www.barossa.com/events/barossa-be-consumed
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