GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 73 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
CONTENTS FEATURE WINE + CHEESE: THE PERFECT PAIR 10
Megan Osborne
ON THE ROAD
RECIPES
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
BBQ SHAPE CRISP WITH
48 HOURS IN RUTHERGLEN
JAMON IBERICO
22
ALMOND FETA
23
Lisa Holmen
INTERVIEW CHARCUTERIA WITH FRANK CAMORRA AND DAVID ROBERTS Lauren Bruce
18
14
REGULARS
HOW TO
BAKED ALMOND FETA WITH GNOCCHI AND NAPOLI SAUCE
23
CREATING THE PERFECT
CAPRESE SALAD
30
CHEESE BOARD Will Studd
26
CONTRIBUTORS
4
NOW OPEN
6
AROUND THE TRAPS THINGS WE LOVE
7 28
REVIEWS
32
OUT AND ABOUT
34
THE DIARY
35
HANGED CACIOCAVALLO WITH RED CABBAGE SALAD
30
ON THE COVER: CHARCUTERIE Charcuterie is the branch of cooking devoted to prepared meat products, such as bacon, ham, sausage, terrines, galantines, ballotines, pâtés, and confit, primarily from pork. Charcuterie is part of the garde manger chef’s repertoire. Originally intended as a way to preserve meat before the advent of refrigeration, they are prepared today for their flavors derived from the preservation processes. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au
Jess Hourigan
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
EDITOR
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au
Lauren Bruce
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
www.grammagazine.com.au
3
CONTRIBUTORS It’s that time of year again, where we take stock of a crazy summer full of festivities and prepare ourselves for the
MEGAN OSBORNE
colder, darker winter months – pickling,
DEPUTY EDITOR
preserving, fermenting and taking our produce that little bit further. It’s the perfect time of year to cosy up next to a fire with a glass of wine, and a spread of good cheese and charcuterie that’s bursting with flavour. Many, if not almost all, of my best conversations are had when tucking into French cheeses, or Italian antipasto, or Spanish charcuteria alongside lots of different pickles, olives, pastes and good bread. I don’t know about you, but I don’t need much of an excuse before I’m
Megan Osborne is the GRAM Magazine deputy editor and a food-obsessed writer. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
sitting down with friends to a delicious array of meats and cheeses while we gasbag over a glass of something delicious or two (or three…). This month, we explore what makes good charcuterie, as well as how to make a cheeseboard great. We’re also looking at wine pairings, and, on the other side of the spectrum, unorthodox ways to make cheese WITHOUT dairy products (gasp). So grab a glass of something yum, swaddle yourself in a blanket and get stuck into #73 with us. Lauren Bruce
LISA HOLMEN After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel.
EDITOR Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible.
lauren@grammagazine.com.au
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee- obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
MIMI BIGGADIKE Mimi Biggadike is a professional chef and freelance journalist. After working as a food consultant, recipe tester and food writer in London for two and a half years, Mimi has set off around the world
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
4
with an open mind (and mouth). Her skills include knitting, eating, cooking and getting herself into a lot of trouble with her monstrously loud laugh. You’ll find her in cafes eating cake and writing about her life in the third person. bloggadike.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: bloggadike
burrata, mussel guazzetto & olive crumbs
#thatsamorecheese
www.thatsamorecheese.com.au
NOW OPEN PIQUANCY Hawthorn’s
new
Indian
restaurant,
Piquancy
-
meaning
a pleasantly sharp and appetising flavour - is set to live up to its name with an enticing mix of flavours and spices to transport diners to the streets of India. The contemporary venue is brought to you by Mani Waraich and Ranjit Singh, the team behind St Kilda hotspot, Babu Ji. The pair’s Punjab family-orientated upbringings will also be at the forefront
RUSTICA SOURDOUGH HAWTHORN
of Piquancy. We have a diverse menu and want people to experience all the
Melbourne’s leading bakery-café, Rustica will officially open the doors to its new Hawthorn location on Monday 8 May. Designed by architect Fiona Drago, Rustica Hawthorn features pastel tiles, marble surfaces, custom-made furniture, lighting pendants,
concrete
pillars
covered
in
greenery and a suspended timber ceiling. “The north facing position has allowed lots of natural light to play with so coming into the cooler months it will still be bright,” says co-owner Brenton Lang. Head chef and co-owner Tristan White has created dishes unique to the Hawthorn store,
including
shoulder
a
baguette
slow-roasted
lamb
with
lamb
tender
“In India, food brings people together and it puts a smile on
elements of a contemporary Indian meal.”
everyone’s faces. This is what we want to do at Piquancy,” Waraich says, “Fresh and local produce is paired with carefully thought-
The wine list has been put together by renowned sommelier Jeff
out recipes to make our customers feel special and at home.”
Sault, with a focus on local winemakers. A selection of 40 craft beers will also be available from a help-yourself beer fridge – the
The menu features Indian street foods such as yoghurt kebabs,
perfect complement to aromatic food.
pani puri and cheese dosa. Diners can also expect classic Indian dishes with rice, as well as healthier options like quinoa biryani
Piquancy also offers ticketed cooking classes for adults, where
or cauliflower rice to accompany the delicious curries, such as
attendees can learn how to bring Piquancy’s delicious flavours
achari pork chops, okra tikki and curried lamb shanks.
into their own cooking.
“We hope our venue will help shift the usual perception of Indian
Creating a ‘smile on a plate’, Piquancy delight in creating an
food, which is the typical curry and rice menu,” Waraich says.
experience that is an Indian home away from home in the heart
“When people talk about going to Piquancy, it’s a name that’s not
of Hawthorn.
obviously Indian, so people won’t have a preconceived opinion of the food. We want people to know they can order lighter street
123 AUBURN STREET, HAWTHORN
food dishes to share, and not fill up on just curry and rice dishes.
piquancy.com.au
marinated in rosemary and garlic and topped with cumin yogurt, red onion and
HANA
iceberg lettuce. Another favourite is the Baba Ganoush served with grilled haloumi, roma tomato, poached eggs and greens. Coffee is by
Earlier this year Lang and co-owners Tristan White and Matt Vero sold Rustica Richmond to focus on the new Hawthorn us as their first pick. We liked the site’s potential for weekday trade with the nearby offices, and weekend trade with the residential community. It’s a good combo”,
Yarra’s Lilli Apartments, and most recently, Higher Ground on Lonsdale Street’s Upper West Side apartments. Plans for further expansion of the Rustica Group are not too far away. Adding to its Fitzroy, CBD and now Hawthorn location, Lang has secured a site at the base of the Rialto Towers due to open in a few months. 121 POWER STREET, HAWTHORN rusticasourdough.com.au
6
rum tart and a decadent lime cheesecake.
Hana brings a touch of
Manabe, who was raised in Hawaii, was classically trained and
Hawaiian
Little
worked as Curtis Stone’s sous chef for four years in both the
Collins Street. Inspired by
United States and Australia, before collaborating with owner
the coastal town at the
Matteo Bruno on this lively project.
bliss
to
came to be after owner
Tiki cocktails take centre stage at Hana, and are named after
Matteo
(Meatball
beaches and waterfalls in Maui, such as the ‘Twin Falls Jungle
& Wine Bar) spent time
Bird’, or the ‘Honolua Bay Sharknado’, an electrifying mix of
exploring
dark rum, Cointreau, passionfruit, lime, orange and orgeat (a
Bruno the
wondrous
landscapes of the islands.
says Lang.
including Two Birds One Stone in South
leads the sweet offerings, accompanied by a pineapple and
even the darkest winter
eastern end of Maui, Hana
store. “Maple Development approached
partnering with residential developments
A Hawaiian favourite, Haupia, (a coconut milk-based dessert)
that’s bound to brighten day, new dining destination
Rumble Coffee Roasters.
Rustica joins the rise of café operators
Sporting a design aesthetic
sweet syrup, almost like liquid marzipan).
The Road to Hana traverses mountainous jungle and passes
The Hana Colada is set to be a stunner, made with coconut,
spectacular waterfalls, ultimately opening up to the coast where
freshly juiced pineapples and Jamaican rum. It can be sipped
dolphins and whales are easily spotted in the clear blue sea. The
as a single serve or upgraded to a ‘volcano’, for two to four
new venue embodies this playful spirit, making it ideal for all
people.
occasions, the perfect escape.
There’s also a sharp wine list based around natural, orange, bio-dynamic and precise minimal intervention wines
Hawaiian born Head Chef, Mario Manabe has created a menu that follows the seaside theme, focusing on raw seafood with just a
Once occupied by Hairy Canary, the site has been entirely
handful of the savoury options served hot.
transformed by Samantha Eades (refurbishment at Chin Chin, fitouts at Hawker Hall and The Meatball & Wine Bar on
Guests may choose to begin with individually portioned items,
Flinders Lane), who worked closely with Bruno and builders
such as mudcrab with tempura apple and ginger, or tapioca crisps
MIC Projects. Neon pink illuminates the ceilings and walls,
with poké, avocado and yuzu. But the real action begins with
interspersed with custom made Monstera-leaf wallpaper and
share plates; a seafood frenzy featuring dishes such as kingfish
pineapple shaped light fittings that lend a truly tropical vibe.
with jalapeno and lemon ice and snapper ceviche, kumquat, tigers milk or the grilled lobster with carrot and cardamom puree
212 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE
and pickled shitake.
hanarestaurant.com.au
AROUND THE TRAPS
SOFT SERVE WINE ICE CREAM Vinomofo is making enjoying wine just that bit sweeter with their limited edition soft serve “wine-scream”, debuting at this year’s Good Food & Wine Show. Imagine a glass of premium European wine in one hand and a delicious tub of creamy, delicious wine-scream in the other. It’s the makings of any wine lovers dream!
QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET WINTER NIGHT MARKET RETURNS Wednesdays are about to get a whole lot warmer with the Queen Victoria Market’s Winter Night Market, returning every Wednesday from June 7 to August 30. The theme this year is ‘Fire and Lights’, with the Market revealing an exciting new lighting concept including installations of large glowing neons and hazy red smoke.
The two delicious types of wine-infused frosty treats on offer are: - The Orgy soft serve wine-scream: a delicious GSM from McLaren Vale made by Vinomofo and the famous wine making brothers, Hither & Yon. - Fanny Limehead soft serve sorbet, a beautifully zesty riesling from Clare Valley made by Vinomofo and Penna Lane. It’s citrus, zesty and fresh. Each wine-scream is gluten free, and the sorbet is lactose-free. Available each day at the Good Food & Wine Show, wine-loving mofos can get these delicious sweet morsels for free!
Open fires, quirky entertainment, 50 specialty stalls, and 30 global food traders are sure to ease the Melbourne winter chill. Winter cuisine will be on show with traders serving up heart-warming dishes and drinks. MoVida’s Paco’s Tacos will be dishing up their famous Mexican street-style tacos along with char-grilled corn on the cob; Those Girls will be warming up market-goers bellies with Hollywood’s latest health food trend, Bone Broth. That’s Amore Cheese are creating a tasty new polenta dish served alongside their famous Parmigiano wheeltossed pastas. The Fondue Corner will be taking us to the Austrian Alps with its famous cheeses; Savoyarde and Raclette Fondue. Churro Kitchen are offering deliciously naughty churro bowls and gooey marshmallow hot chocolates. Butterlake are also back, alluring market-goers with their decadent Taiwanese pancakes.
THE FOOD REPOSITORY FITZROY POP-UP STAYS OPEN UNTIL AUGUST
Mulled wine from ReWine will take up its iconic place at the market, along with Coldstream Brewery serving steaming cups of their hot cider from cauldrons of boozy joy. Championing diversity and providing a unique opportunity to enjoy a cheery midweek event during the cooler months, the Winter Night Market is sure to sate Melburnians
Due to the overwhelming response to
looking for a place to escape the cold once again.
its pop-up store, The Food Repository owner Jony Marcelis has decided to keep
Cnr Queen and Therry Streets, Melbourne
its doors open until August, meaning
thenightmarket.com.au
Melbourne’s dedicated food-lovers can continue to appreciate a one-stop-shop for products from the metro and regional producers they love.
Originally from Belgium, Marcelis moved to Australia four years ago, working in finance before deciding to follow her passion for well-made food.
The Food Repository, an online store that highlights small producers, launched its
Marcelis handpicks each item stocked by The Food Repository for its sustainable
online presence in November 2016. After
production methods and delicious, natural ingredients. While she has put an emphasis
three successful months, Marcelis opened
on catering to a range of dietary requirements in her store, it’s also the place to find
her pop-up store in Fitzroy to bring
some more indulgent items, such as Fix & Fogg peanut butters and Four Pillars’
her love of small-batch, artisanal food
Breakfast Negroni.
producers to the masses. foodrepository.com.au
7
BRINGING YOUR KITCHE
EN DREAMS TO LIFE
www.chefshat.com.au
WINE + CHEESE
The perfect pair
WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE, MILK THE COW AND DAVID HYDE
Like two peas in a pod, wine and cheese were made for each other.
Carlton appeared in 2014. The selection is huge, with tastes ranging from
Soulmates, you could say, like Batman and Robin, Romeo and Juliet,
sweet to salty to extremely pungent and blue veins abundant (epic). The
peanut butter and jelly, cats and a Friday night in.
experience at Milk the Cow is even greater due to the cheese flights on offer, with boards matched with beverages ranging from wine, beer, cider,
While wine pairing often comes secondary to food and is chosen to
whisky, fortifieds, and even sake.
complement the edible, for this scrumptious selection we’re showcasing a range of Victorian wines, and picking the perfect cheeses to match
Lown has been working in cheese for 13 years, previously in the UK. When
the drops.
she arrived in Melbourne, Milk the Cow Owner Daniel Verheyen got in touch prior to opening the initial establishment. “I’m opening a fromagerie,
Laura Lown, Cheesemonger from Milk the Cow, helped us out with her
but it’s really unlike any other fromagerie”, Verheyen told Lown. She laughs
extensive collection and even wider knowledge base around the dairy
about her scepticism of being sold the dream, until she realised how fresh
delights. Impressing us with an array of cheeses from Spain, France, the
the concept was at the time.
Netherlands, USA and, closer to home, the Yarra Valley, we couldn’t have been more impressed by her pairings.
Having been a cheesemonger at Milk the Cow since day one, she’s seen the business evolve and expand the flights and offering, including reaching out
Milk the Cow first opened its doors in St Kilda in 2012 as a fromagerie
into masterclasses, catering, fondue nights, chef dinners and winemaker,
with a cellar door experience, and by popular demand, a second store in
brewer and distiller events. “Some would say I have a hard job,” Lown says,
10
sarcasm clearly apparent in the statement, and in the obvious enjoyment
THE PAIRINGS
she gets from being in the industry. MONTARA - 2014 GOLD RUSH RIESLING While the majority of the offering at Milk the Cow is French, which Lown
Grampians, $23
attributes to coming from a country that’s been making cheese for
Paired with Midnight Moon, USA
centuries, 15% is Australian, which she considers quite an achievement
The Gold Rush Riesling by Montara in the Grampians is an off-dry soft style
given their process for selecting the product. “We really want to focus on
with forward, fruity flavours of lime, lemon rind and a talcy touch. Lown
top quality cheeses, and cheese you can’t just get everywhere,” Lown says.
recommends with the higher acidity found in Riesling; “It would be nice
Keep an eye out for the Norwegian Gjetost, a sweet caramelised whey that
to match it with something really clean, milky and silky, which is Midnight
Lown calls the ‘breakfast cheese’, and it goes brilliantly with coffee. Lown’s
Moon from America.”
tip for a unique and lovely, lesser-known cheese is the Fleur de Maquis from Corsica.
Midnight Moon is an aged goat’s milk gouda, and though the recipe is from the Netherlands, this one is produced in California. A sweet, mild and
When selecting these ten Victorian wines, we purposefully chose a range
milky cheese, it also holds floral and fruity tones that balance well against
in terms of style, region and price. While we don’t claim these to be the
the weight of the riesling, without overpowering, but rather enhancing the
best wines in Victoria - as we strongly believe wine is a subjective pleasure
aromatics.
to be enjoyed by each person individually - we do believe that if you enjoy a drop now and then, then there’s something for you in this list, and a darn
OAKRIDGE - 2014 864 CHARDONNAY, FUNDER & DIAMOND VINEYARD,
fine cheese to pair with your next bottle.
DRIVE BLOCK Yarra Valley, $78
“There’s no right or wrong,” Lown tells us, when it comes to cheese and
Paired with White Savourine, Yarra Valley, Australia
wine pairings. While there are guidelines to follow, there’s many different
Chief Winemaker at Oakridge, David Bicknell tells us that although the
paths to go down, she explains: “You can complement, cut through, or
Yarra Valley was historically a Cabernet region, “The best wines that have
contrast flavours.” A definite handy tip she shares is; “Whatever grows
been coming out of the valley consistently in the last ten years, have
together, goes together”, as well as thinking about other complementary
probably been chardonnay.” The Funder & Diamond is the highest of the
flavours: “If you’ve got a pinot noir which is like strawberries, put a cheese
vineyards at Oakridge, and Bicknell tells us, “It’s one of those just right
which is like cream, and it’s like you’ve created your own little dessert,”
scenarios: It faces north, it’s close planted, it’s mature, planted in 1990.”
she says.
11
The richness and depth of the Oakridge 864 Chardonnay makes it pretty
PATRICK SULLIVAN - PINK POUND ROSE 2016
special, with white stone fruits, flint and toast, to smooth vanilla, brioche
Elinbank & Taggerty, $30
and poached quince. “It’s the most important wine that we currently
Paired with La Tur, Italy
produce.” Says Bicknell.
Lown loved the description of Patrick Sullivan’s Pink Pound Rose, which states that the crisp drop is; “more flamboyant than Freddy Mercury”.
For the cheese, Lown chose the Yarra Valley White Savourine. “I’ve gone
“So what’s more indulgent than a blend of three milks?” says Lown. From
with that whole, whatever grows together, goes together.” She says. “It’s
Piedmont in Italy, this cheese gets richness from cow’s milk, nuttiness from
[the White Savourine] known for having this high acidity, and it’s really
goat’s milk, and sweetness from sheep’s milk. “Really, it’s like a cheesecake,”
nutty and toasty.” This complements the creamy nuttiness of the Oakridge
Lown laughs, stating it even looks like a little cupcake. The pinot noir is
Chardonnay, and holds it’s own against the stone fruit depth and weight.
pressed off early for a light colour, then a little gewürztraminer is added back in, with limited interference to preserve the integrity of the fruit in
YERING STATION - 2015 CHARDONNAY
this fresh rosé. Sullivan tells us it’s perfect drinking for a “Sunny day with
Yarra Valley, $40
oysters and cigarettes in SOHO”.
Paired with Queso de Cabra, Spain The Yering Station 2015 Chardonnay has a nose of stone fruits and sweet
POLPERRO - 2015 EVEN KEEL PINOT NOIR
spices, but it was the cashews that drew Lown’s attention, leading her
Mornington Peninsula, $35
to suggest the Spanish cheese, which is an: “Amazing aged goat’s milk
Paired with Beaufort d’Alpage, France
from Spain, called Queso de Cabra. It’s literally like brioche, cashew and
Another Pinot Noir from the Mornington Peninsula, the Polperro Even Keel
macadamia. So I thought, let’s play off the whole nuttiness,” says Lown.
Pinot Noir boasts cherries and raspberries alongside earthy notes, supple
With the creamy, mild palate and toasty vanillin spice of the wine, the
tannins and a fine acidity, with potential to cellar until 2018. “It’s really juicy
cheese is quite unctuous, she says, making a perfectly rich match.
but then it’s got a really fine texture,” says Lown. “Hill spice, bramble: It’s got so many characteristics going on. There’s this cheese which is a raw
BLUE RANGE ESTATE - 2015 PINOT GRIGIO
milk cheese from the Savoie; Beaufort d’Alpage.
Mornington Peninsula, $30 Paired with Buffalo Mozzarella, Italy
“Usually the French say when you try these styles of cheeses, you’re meant
The Blue Range Estate Pinot Grigio is medium bodied with strong aroma and
to pick up about 80 plus flavour characteristics. I thought there’s so much
taste of pear, with a crisp and subtle finish. Lown tells us that when it’s quite
going on in there, you need something which is going to stand up to it and
light in body, you want something texturally to balance that. Buffalo Mozzarella
not get lost.”
is rich and high in protein and fat, so it’s going to coat your palate nicely. Lown explains that the cows feed in summer, digesting strawberries, “Because it’s so light, it [the cheese] should enhance the fact that the wine
buttercups, thistles, plums, daisies and raspberries, and apparently you
has amazing pear notes running through it,” Lown says. The crispness of the
don’t lose those flavours. “It’s big and bold… and very similar to everything
Pinot Grigio suits the young age of the cheese, which leaves it light and fresh,
going on in here [the wine]” she says. The cheese is smooth, not cheddary,
playing off each other well.
enhancing the fine tannins of the pinot.
12
TERINDAH ESTATE - 2013 SINGLE VINEYARD RESERVE PINOT NOIR
tannin sits hand in hand with red berries and liquorice, making a bright
Bellarine Peninsula, $80
but dense and complex red wine that can be cellared up to 2023.
Paired with Ossau Iraty, France The 2013 Single Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir from Terindah Estate has
While Lown admits that usually you may classically match gouda or
a rose and fruit aroma, followed with complex leather and mineral taste.
cheddar with a shiraz, the smokiness and suggested pairing with slow-
Classic pinot earthiness with savoury meat, cranberry, rhubarb and sweet
cooked meat led her to choose the Epoisses from France. Washed in
cherry combine with silky tannins in this light red wine.
brandy, it was created by monks as an alternative to meat. “So I thought let’s play on that, and match it with the cheese that tastes like charcuterie.
Lown has paired this drop with the Ossau Iraty from France. “Sheep’s milk
We used to nickname it the bacon cheese. It’s salty, silky, milky, full and big
is renowned for having a higher fat content in the milk, so you get this
and it’s really going to stand up to this Shiraz.”
smooth texture, this elasticity as it’s aged. But then you get this subtler caramel and green olive kind of nutty undertones coming through,” says Lown. With pinot noirs you’ve got to be careful, she informs us, to choose
SCION WINERY - 2014 SINGLE VINEYARD AFTER DARK (FORTIFIED
quite mild cheeses to ensure you don’t lose the body of the delicate wine,
DURIF)
and rather lift it.
Rutherglen, $29 Paired with Reypenaer V.S.O.P., Netherlands
MERRICK’S CREEK - 2015 RESERVE PINOT NOIR
Scion Winery in Rutherglen produces a delightfully smooth, single vineyard
Mornington Peninsula, $50
fortified durif called After Dark. Medium sweet, this style is inspired by
Paired with Brillat Savarin, France
south-eastern France and it can be served chilled or at room temperature.
Merrick’s Creek in the Mornington Peninsula boast some rather exceptional
Reminiscent of plum liqueur, fruit cake and chocolate; while sweet and
Pinot Noir. The 2015 Reserve is a cracker, with a bright red and purple
smooth, it’s not sticky or thick like other syrupy fortifieds.
colour and a bouquet of plum, spice and integrated oak, followed by an intense fruit flavour and long palate. The cheese pairing for this delightful
Lown is excited to tell us about this pairing. “There is this amazing cheese
pinot is the very famous triple brie from France, Brillat Savarin. With 85%
that people when they come in here, they fall in love with,” she says. The
fat, the cheese is “very rich and very morish,” says Lown, explaining that
two-year-old Dutch Gouda is called Reypenaer V.S.O.P…Although a blue
the spice, plum and cherry from the wine will work well with the earthy
would work well, this wild card is like butterscotch and caramel, a real
richness of the cheese.
dessert match”, says Lown. Side note: this cheese was the fast favourite for us.
ZONZO ESTATE - 2015 SHIRAZ Yarra Valley, $55 Paired with Epoisses, France
MILK THE COW
2015 was the first vintage of the Zonzo Estate wines, and what a
157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda
ripper it was. The Estate Shiraz is bold and velvety, and showcases
323 Lygon Street, Carlton
the attributes of a cool climate Shiraz really well. The fine persistent
milkthecow.com.au
13
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED 48 HOURS IN RUTHERGLEN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA HOLMEN
Nestled in Victoria’s rugged north-east, Rutherglen is one of Australia’s
With a few wines under your belt, take a short detour to the Jones Winery
most loved wine and food destinations; yet it is a region which is largely
and Vineyard, where you’ll find the most charming heritage-listed building
unexplored by the masses. Perhaps most famous for its big red and fortified
with an adjoining art gallery. Owned by brother and sister team Mandy and
wines, Rutherglen is a destination which warrants a visit for so much more.
Arthur Jones, the winery (built in 1860) is one of the oldest and smallest in the Rutherglen area. Specialising in French cuisine, the restaurant has
The wonderfully historic wine region is home to 20 award-winning wineries
a refined, homely vibe. It’s the sort of place you dream of stumbling upon
and fantastic restaurants and cafes, as well as being an outdoor paradise
while road tripping through Provence.
for all its fishing, water sports and camping hot spots. The dishes are all prepared with flair and finesse, concentrating on Whether you’re looking to cycle along Rutherglen’s famous historical rail
traditional French techniques and flavours. Think pork medallions teamed
trails, discover their world-famous muscat or treat yourself to some luxe
with apple and ginger puree, boudin noir crumble and green beans and
glamping, it really is a town that has it all.
confit duck Maryland with braised lentils, confit potato, red cabbage and orange salad. Hungry anyone?
Here’s a guide for the ideal food lover’s weekender. No trip to Rutherglen is complete without a muscat tasting. And as far DAY ONE
as muscats go, Morris Wines is an essential stop for the muscat lover (or the soon to be converted). Morris Wines is one of Australia’s most iconic
After a three-hour drive from Melbourne, get your drinking boots on at
wineries with over 150 years of history and winemaking tradition. For five
Scion Vineyard. Located just south of the Rutherglen township, Scion
generations, the Morris family winemakers have been producing world
was established in 2002 and focuses on hand-crafting small-batch wines
class fortified and red table wines led by Muscat and Durif. Muscat is a
and shaping classic regional varieties of Durif, Muscat and Viognier into
wine style unique to Australia, made from Muscat à Petit Grain Rouge,
premium contemporary wines. Stop and have a chat at the cellar door with
known locally as Brown Muscat. To make such a rich wine, you need very
owner and winemaker Rowly Milhinch, whose winemaking style is inspired
ripe fruit, which makes the Rutherglen climate perfect for this kind of
by France and food pairings. At Scion, everything is done by hand and
grape. The muscats here range from bright, raisin-y sweetness in its youth
yields are low due to an emphasis on quality, not quantity.
to more intense, complex flavours as it ages. It’s the ideal after dinner wine, pairing perfectly with chocolate, fruity desserts or even a strong cheese.
15
Muscat has an incredible richness and intense flavour, which really lingers
by a continental or ‘cook your own’ style breakfast. Or, if you’re feeling lazy,
on the palate. There is a saying that “the first sip of Rutherglen Muscat is
let the experts do the work for you and enjoy breakfast at the charming
a memory that stays with a wine lover for life,” and I’d have to agree. Don’t
Pickled Sisters Café.
miss the barrel room here if you can get a sneaky peek. After breakfast make your way to the picturesque Lake Moodemere Wrap up the evening with dinner at Thousand Pound wine bar, the latest
Estate. The Estate is owned and operated by sixth generation winemaker
venture of the Brown siblings and Denis Lucey of Melbourne’s Bottega
Michael Chambers and his wife Belinda. Enjoy a wine tasting in the cellar
Restaurant. It’s the kind of place you’d imagine being located in the heart
door before trying your luck at The Great Lake Moodemere Hole in One. If
of Melbourne with all its bar seating, wine barrels and cosy corners. Chef
you’re lucky, you could win $1,000 worth of wine!
Simon Arkless has crafted a brilliant produce-driven menu including bar snacks and shared plates. A definite highlight is the steaks grilled
Dine alfresco in the 100-year-old gardens overlooking the lake. Weekends
over charcoal, or you can skip straight to the cheese plate laden with
feature a Moodemere Lamb Special, or you can share a charcuterie plate
Woombye gold, Le Marquis chevre de Rambouillet, Blairlaith cheddar
laden with lamb terrine, formichi salami, prosciutto, and smoked trout. The
and quince.
estate grows its very own Moodemere premium, free-range Lamb, the fat marbling of which could be compared to that found in wagyu beef.
Sleep under the stars at the ultimate winery experience at Cofield Wines; Grapevine Glamping. Unwind with a glass of wine before bed while
Spend the afternoon exploring the Rutherglen region at a gentle pace.
camping at this winery and vineyard. This isn’t any average tent. The bell
Pick up a bike at St Leonard’s Winery and join the Pedal to Produce Cycle
tent is fully furnished with a king size bed (with the most comfortable
Trail to sample the very best wine, fruit and produce at local orchards,
pillows in the world), a fridge, board games and magazines, stargazing
wineries and cafes.
kit and fishing gear. There’s even a heater to keep you cosy in the winter months.
Dinner time? Finish your visit in style and dine at the Tuilleries Restaurant, or treat yourself to a degustation at Taste. If you’re after something a bit
DAY 2
more casual, takeaway some award-winning pies from Parker Pies.
There’s something about the great outdoors and sleeping under the stars
Discover Rutherglen’s Winemakers
that makes you feel closer to nature. Watch the sun rise over the vines
winemakers.com.au
before making a cuppa in Cofield’s very own Camp Kitchen, accompanied
16
Showcasing SOME of Australia’s independent breweries
BonE NtheD Ihop GO
26 AUGUST 20 BREWERIES, 40 BEERS tickets on sale from 1 june
www.bendigobeer.com
CHARCUTERIA WITH FRANK CAMORRA AND DAVID ROBERTS WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN BRUCE
It’s difficult to talk about Spanish food in Australia without uttering the
Born in Barcelona to Spanish parents before migrating to Australia and
name ‘Frank Camorra’. A Spanish food pioneer in this city, Camorra has led
growing up in Geelong, Camorra has dedicated his food career to bringing
the way in fostering the tapas tradition in Melbourne.
traditional Spanish cuisine to Melburnians and Melbourne visitors alike; a big part of which is focusing on Spanish-style charcuteria and smallgoods,
Camorra’s restaurants MoVida Original, MoVida Next Door and MoVida
or embutidos (Spanish for “cured sausage”).
Aqui reflect the vibrant food culture of Spain; not least of which is charcuteria and, in particular, jamon.
By his side in his culinary endeavours has been Dave Roberts, former head chef at MoVida Original, who after 13 years with MoVida, decided
When I head into MoVida Original to interview Camorra, he brings out
to venture into the world of smallgoods himself due to being dissatisfied
a selection of smallgoods for me to try that I’d be a fool to say no to.
with what was on offer locally. Roberts’ smallgoods company; Carne-Sal-
Tender and flavourful chorizo with a perfect fat-to-meat ratio tinged with
Tiempo (Spanish for “meat-salt-time”) supplies Camorra’s restaurants
a deep earthy red from Spanish paprika; Jamon Iberico de Bellotta with
with its embutidos.
a layer of fat like butter that is so delicious and unlike any other cured pork I’ve tasted before. Based purely on this experience, it’s easy to see why
Camorra and Roberts have a fairly traditional, pure approach to cured
Camorra is known for his charcuteria.
meats, and insist that when it comes to quality smallgoods, less is more.
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“We do a mixed [charcuterie] board [at MoVida Aqui], but we prefer to sell it individually. The whole smallgoods board tradition isn’t particularly Spanish; I think it’s more a way to increase sales,” Camorra says. “But when you’re in Spain, you order chorizo or you order jamon. You don’t actually mix it together.” Camorra says that instead of it being all about piling up your board with various meats, it’s all about the quality of the product. This comes down to the quality of the meat, whether it’s made by someone who knows what they’re doing, and whether the meat is well-cured and well-aged. Roberts agrees, conceding that having one great stand-alone meat product with accompaniments to balance it out is the way to go. “On the board, you’ve got to get the textures [right],” he says. “With the meat, you [should have] pickles, or anything that will cut through the fattiness and the different sorts of textures in the salamis.” “It’s much more pleasurable to eat one really nice piece of meat, which is just the way I was brought up,” Camorra says. “It’s one really special thing, it’s a jewel, and you don’t need eight jewels on the plate. It’s a bit too much bling. That’s how I think about food in general.”
“It’s much more pleasurable to eat one really nice piece of meat... It’s a jewel, and you don’t need eight jewels on the plate.” Growing up in Australia, Camorra and his parents kept traditional Spanish food culture alive and well in their family, which might shed some light on why Camorra is so passionate about celebrating traditional
foods
and
methods
of
cooking
across
his
own
establishments. That said, Australiana culture still made its mark on Camorra’s family traditions. “Dad cures his own ham. We’ve been doing it for years. And Mum always gets a plate of the cured ham and then chucks Barbeque Shapes with it. I don’t know why, but it’s just her thing!” He laughs. When Italian restaurateur Massimo Bottura hosted a dinner in collaboration with Camorra and others at Pei Modern, Camorra decided to turn his mum’s comfort food snack into a tapa. “I made a dish playing around with that idea, our own version of Barbecue Shapes and jamon, which was pretty tasty,” he says. “[Bottura] made us put a narrative to the dishes [we created]. It had to be something that meant something to us, so I made this dish. It was served in the restaurant for ages.” Camorra serves a variety of Roberts’ smallgoods in his restaurants, but also imports varieties of charcuterie from Spain. “Smallgoodswise, we’ve got jamon iberico; we’re using David’s fuet de anis, and we’re using salchichon, which is just a straight pork sausage but the Spanish version, with a bit of pepper and nutmeg. We’re using Spanish chorizo, which is [seasoned with] Spanish paprika and a bit of fino sherry. We’re serving marcon, which is usually made from large pieces of [pork] neck muscle. We do wagyu bresaola, which has also been on the menu forever and a day,” says Camorra.
19
Both Camorra and Roberts take their cured meats pretty seriously. When
The other distinctive feature about Spanish charcuteria is the natural
asked about what makes cured meat great, they cite everything from how
moulds that occur during the curing process. The sausage ferments the
much the muscle has been worked during an animal’s life, to what the
same way cheese does, with the natural mould giving the meat its unique
animal is fed as determining the flavour of the end result. “I’m a purist for
flavour.
what’s best quality,” Camorra says. “Good jamon is basically cured naturally, with the windows open,” Camorra There’s no doubt Camorra and Roberts champion Spanish traditions when
says. “Most of the ibericas are still cured that way.”
it comes to cured meats. Camorra says the quality of the Iberian pork, the black pig that can be found along the Iberian coast in Spain and Portugal,
The jamon is refrigerated for a certain period, but after the ‘danger’ period
is first and foremost what sets Spanish cured meats apart.
(where the meat is stored at temperatures that cause the highest risk of it becoming inedible), the meat is exposed to natural ventilation. ”The
Another major difference, Camorra notes, is the paprika – or pimenton. “It’s
windows are opened up, and that natural ventilation gives the jamon its
the key Spanish ingredient,” Camorra says. “You can’t really cook [Spanish
natural flor,” Camorra says, referring to the ‘good’ bacteria that develops
food] without it.”
the flavour of the meat.
“With the meat, you [should have] pickles, or anything that will cut through the fattiness and the different sorts of textures in the salamis.”
Given that Camorra is surrounded by cured meat on a regular basis, he’d be forgiven for getting sick of it. But Camorra says there’s no denying the joy of great charcuteria.
There are different types of Spanish paprika prevalent in Spanish cooking
“Everyone leads busy lives. So having a really high quality, delicious thing
that are all on different parts of the flavour spectrum according to where
to eat, that’s no effort [other than] buying and slicing it, it’s great,” he says.
they are produced. Smoky la vera, which is “smoked because it’s so wet in the [region of Spain] its produced that they have to dry the peppers over
“If you’re entertaining, you’re taking all the effort out of making a really
fires”; says Camorra. Then there are the sweet and hot varieties such as the
nice dish. You have time to talk to your friends but you’re still serving
that of the Murcia region in Spain, a sweet and sour paprika traditionally
something that’s easy and good quality that everyone can enjoy… I think
used in chorizo. “Paprika is the standard ingredient in Spanish cooking.
that’s the appeal.”
Then spices like fennel seed, coriander seed are used. But every area in Spain has its specialty,” he says.
20
With over 14 years’ experience in the hospo industry, Chef Azem Dzevlan has cooked his fair share of French and Middle Eastern cuisine at Bistro Thieny, Maha, Le Bouchon and Smith + Singleton. Now-finally-he’s got a little menu to call his own. The place is called Black Gold, a new cafe that’s making waves on Richmond’s trendy Lennox St. Dzevlan started up the new venue with his wife, Aisha. The self-proclaimed travel-bugged foodie couple had been wanting to open a cafe for the last two years, and finally found the spot that ticked all their boxes. Black Gold opened its doors for the first time in April. The pair were inspired by a three-month gastronomy trip through Europe in 2016, visiting their favourite countries (especially the foodie ones). The couple has gone out of their way to build a menu around absolutely top-notch ingredients, the finest produce from trusted local providers. As such it’s set to change seasonally, depending what’s fresh at the market, for maximum quality and flavour. With dairy from the Yarra Valley, baked goods from Cobb Lane Bakery and organic cane sugar from Panela (trust us, it matters), you’re definitely getting your money’s worth at Black Gold. Another thing: you won’t find common cafe meats like bacon and chicken on the menu. Instead, Azem and Aisha are kicking things up a notch with house-smoked salmon, air-dried wagyu and scrumptious smoked duck.
Living up to their exclusive name, Black Gold is one of the first cafes in Melbourne to offer a special blend of “black gold”, the Raspberry Candy from award winning ONA Specialty Coffee. Black Gold is clearly off to a flying start-they sold out a heap of dishes on opening week-but the little selfish part inside us hopes it stays a Richmond secret for a while yet. With food like this? Fat chance.
FRANK CAMORRA’S BBQ SHAPE CRISP WITH JAMON IBERICO Camorra came up with this tapa recipe during a collaborative dinner at Pei Modern with Massimo Bottura, after Bottura asked his fellow chefs to come up with a dish based on a narrative that meant something to them. This is Camorra’s take on one of his mother’s favourite snacks: jamon iberico with the classic Aussie BBQ Shape.
Please note: The tomato powder is made from dehydrated tomatoes and can be found at Essential Ingredient. INGREDIENTS:
METHOD:
200g potato flour
1. Mix together all dry ingredients except tomato powder together.
Salt, to taste
2. Add boiling water and mix quickly to form a smooth paste.
350ml boiling water
3. Spread on a non-stick baking paper, 2-3mm thick.
50g sesame seeds
4. Bake at 130C until crisp for approximately 45 minutes.
50g sunflower seeds
5. Once cooked, portion into 4cmx4cm rough squares and dust with dried
5g onion powder
tomato powder. Top with jamon iberico and serve.
Tomato powder, for dusting
22
ALMOND FETA Vegans rejoice, the search is over! Mimi Biggadike uncovers a baked almond feta recipe you can preserve with olive oil!
All thanks and praise go to the folk at Sister of Soul, St Kilda where we met
dairy cheese from scratch – with only a few hours’ work you can have this
with the owner Daniel Clerici to talk about this nuttiest of cheeses. Daniel
meal completed and on the table impressing your friends in no time.
saw a niche for a good, wholesome, clean-eating restaurant in St Kilda back in 2015 and has since proved his hunch with the uproariously busy
Almond Feta
Sister of Soul.
INGREDIENTS: 150g raw almonds
The establishment serves breakfast, lunch and dinner to hungry hoards
50g raw cashews
seven days a week. With a totally vegetarian menu, strong ethical sourcing
60ml lemon juice
of ingredients and a policy of making as much as possible in-house, it’s not
2 tsp salt
hard to see why the masses are flocking.
1tsp sugar 1.5 tsp savoury yeast flakes
The restaurant also upholds principles about the ethical treatment of
150ml water
animals, as they explain in large capital letters on their outside wall: ‘Animals
60ml olive oil
are my friends... And I don’t eat my friends’. Thankfully, you don’t have to kill a nut in order to eat it, all that’s necessary is a little soak overnight in a
METHOD:
bath and you’re ready to go!
1. Line a 20x20cm tray neatly with baking parchment and pour in the mix 2. Cover the nuts with cold water and leave overnight to soak.
This almond feta ‘cheese’ is divine. The recipe has been researched,
3. Drain and then pop them in the blender along with all the other
sampled and tried out with different blends and combinations before
ingredients. Blitz until silky smooth.
finally a recipe was found which recreated the taste and texture of dairy
4. Pour out the mix into the tray making sure to level it out, bake at 180
feta, only it’s sourced from entirely plant-based ingredients.
for 35-40mins until firm and just starting to colour. 5. Once cool, you can begin to portion it out. If you’re able to not scoff
The almond feta enjoys such popularity at Sister of Soul that Daniel ponders
the lot immediately, it preserves beautifully well in olive oil.
whether he’ll soon have to offer it for home sale. In the time leading up to this eventuality, we’ve got you covered with the following recipe.
INFUSION INSPIRATION Find yourself a jar, cut the feta into chunks and cover in olive oil and maybe
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT WHY IT WORKS
one of the following:
The lemon splits the fat in the milk in the same way that rennet does for traditional dairy cheeses. It’s a great little trick, adding half a squeezed
SIMPLE AND DELICIOUS: Oregano, rosemary or chilli
lemon to 250ml of any nut milk (or indeed soya, rice etc) to give you
SOMETHING SWANKIER: Lemon myrtle and garlic or bay leaves, mustard
instant ‘buttermilk’. It’s also quicker and cheaper than making traditional
seeds and pink peppercorns.
23
Never waste the oil from these infusions. It can be used to flavour your
Napoli Sauce
dishes further, whether it be to sauté your gnocchi quickly after cooking or
INGREDIENTS:
to fry off the onions and garlic for the risotto you’ll later be crumbling your
2tbsp olive oil
feta over.
1 x 400g can whole peeled tomatoes 1 onion
MAKING A MEAL OF IT
2 cloves of garlic
Baked Almond Feta with Gnocchi and Napoli Sauce
1 tsp salt
Gnocchi
1/2 tsp raw sugar
(Generous portions for 2)
1/2 tsp dried basil
INGREDIENTS:
1tsp balsamic
200g potatoes
Fresh basil for garnish
140g plain or 00 flour 1tsp Dijon mustard
METHOD:
1tsp sea salt
1. Blend your onion and garlic in a food processor until roughly chopped,
1/2 tsp savoury yeast flakes
add to a deep frying pan with the olive oil and sweat them for a couple of minutes without colouring them.
METHOD:
2. Simply add the rest of the ingredients to the pan and bring to simmer,
1. Dry roast your potatoes whole for an hour at 180 degrees. Once cooked,
leave for 5 minutes to quietly bubble.
leave to cool and then scoop out the insides, discard the skins.
3. Bend it all up into a smooth sauce. Transfer back into the pan on a very
2. Add the mustard, salt and yeast flakes and mash until smooth. Add 100g
low heat (you can make your sauce whilst your potatoes are roasting in
of your flour and start kneading in the bowl to combine. Tip the remaining
the oven. I leave it to bubble after blending to strengthen the flavours and
flour on your worktop along with your dough and knead further until it’s
then add the gnocchi straight into the sauce after they’ve boiled. If you do
smooth and malleable.
this, you can skip out the ice water stage).
3. Pop a large pan of salted boiling water on the stove on a medium heat.
4. Transfer into your favourite bowl, crumble 2 tablespoons of the feta
4. Cut into 8 portions and roll each out into a sausage about the thickness
over with a good glug of olive oil, some freshly ground black pepper and
of your thumb. Cut each sausage into 2-3cm nuggets. Once you have all
a slight handful of fresh basil.
your potato nuggets cut, transfer them into your pan. They are cooked once they float to the top, scoop them out at this point with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl of ice water to stop them cooking and prevent them from going mushy.
24
BRINGING YOUR BRAND TO LIFE
FOOD, BEVERAGE & RETAIL ACTIVATIONS
Combining creative ideas, technology, design & excellence in activation fit-out using recycled shipping containers.
www.shippingcontaineractivation.com.au 25
26
CREATING THE PERFECT CHEESEBOARD Will Studd reveals all you need to know about making a cheeseboard great. When it comes to putting together a great cheese board, the [essential] thing is obviously the cheese. That’s the hardest bit and the most fun bit. All the best and most interesting cheeses tend to be influenced by the seasons, and that means going to your local cheese maker or cheese shop and finding out what they recommend. Find a cheese shop/cheese maker you trust, and find a cheese you trust and know something about.
WHERE TO FIND YOUR CHEESE
I’m not against biscuits; I think they’re really convenient, but their texture
Sure you can go to the local supermarket, but cheeses there tend to be
tends to battle it out with the cheese. If you’re going to have biscuits, I
much more predictable. In Melbourne, in Victoria, I would go to a farmer’s
would try an oatmeal biscuit, which is a traditional way to go. I don’t like
market or any of the markets; there are good cheese retailers in all of
the very wafer-thin things that crack and break when you put the cheese
the markets in Melbourne. There’s nothing quite like meeting the people
onto them.
producing the cheese to convince you that you’re eating the best cheese of your life!
There’s no right and wrong with accompaniments. If quince paste turns you on, then go for it. It’s worth remembering that the idea of serving any
WILL’S TOP THREE LOCAL CHEESES
sweet jam or quince paste with cheese is to help bad cheese taste better.
I love the cheese from Holy Goat, they’re fantastic. If I were to go to a farmer’s market, I’d go straight for the Holy Goat stand. I love their La
DON’T GO OVERBOARD
Luna because it’s got a beautiful rind on the outside… They’ve mastered
Get something between one and five cheeses for your board. Don’t be
the art of growing that very special type of mould, which looks like coral
lured into the idea that you need to have more than that, because one or
on the outside, and it’s got this wonderful yeasty flavour. It’s a mould
two great cheeses is better than five or more mediocre ones.
that’s normally found in raw milk but it’s possible to create on pasteurised cheese. It’s a pretty special cheese.
WINE PAIRING Different types of cheese require different types of wine–for example, blue
I’ve also been enjoying the Venus Bay Blue, which is a cheese from Prom
cheeses really don’t work with a red wine. It can get complicated when
Country Cheese, down near Wilson’s Prom. It’s a ewe’s milk cheese. They’ve
really, the joy of a cheese board is that it’s something simple to share with
got that wonderful balance of salty blue flavours and lovely rich aftertaste
your friends and guests. You don’t want to get into, “Oh, this cheese will
that comes from using ewe’s milk.
go with this sauvignon blanc” or, “This blue cheese will go with this sticky wine” and, “I’ve gotta eat the cheese and drink the wine in this order.”
The third would be the cloth-bound Annie Baxter from Shaw River. That’s a hard buffalo cheese. It’s quite special because it’s cloth-bound which
White wines usually go better with cheese than reds, which surprises many
allows it to breathe. Buffalo milk is interesting because it’s rich but it has a
people. Generally speaking, a dry white would go well. Some people really
slightly mossy aftertaste, grassy, like the pasture.
enjoy a sticky dessert wine with cheese. Champagne also goes remarkably well with cheese, a parmigiano reggiano, for example.
WHAT TO SERVE IT WITH If you’re a purist, it’s definitely bread and a French baguette. A sourdough
SIMPLE IS BEST
also works really well. But if you’re serving blue cheese, rye bread works
I think one wonderful cheese that you can talk about, that you know
really well too.
something about, a cheese you can really appreciate, is far better than a whole bunch of cheeses just put out to impress people.
27
THINGS WE LOVE
EAT DIRT, FEEL GREAT: EDIBLE MUD
DALMATIA
Clay-based beauty has gone next-level with My Ultimate Detox
Nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean of the edge of the dazzling
(MUD) officially launching Edible MUD.
Adriatic is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets – the spectacular Dalmatian coastline of Croatia.
Made from food-grade 100% Australian Bentonite Clay, Edible MUD can be mixed with water, smoothies or used in cooking to support
A region defined by the sea, rambling vineyards and olive groves, it
the body’s gut health.
is home to some of the country’s most treasured dishes with flavours
Founders of MUD, Caitlin O’Farrell and Rosemary Jonas, first came
reminiscent of Greek and Italian food… but with an identity all its own.
across the benefits of Bentonite Clay while working their highly stressful, corporate jobs.
At its heart, Dalmatian cuisine is frugal, honest and rustic; with distinctive flavours including silverbeet, varenik (grape molasses)
“We were looking for a way to unwind and relax after a hellish day of
and prošek (Dalmatian fortified wine), telling the region’s unique
back-to-back meetings at the office. With long hours, desk lunches
story.
and all-weekend partying, it’s fair to say we were burning the candle at both ends,” O’Farrell says.
In his first book, Ino Kuvačić captures the charm of his beloved native home, celebrating the food traditions, hospitality and signature
O’Farrell and Jonas started their business after experimenting with
purity of this magical place.
the idea of detox baths to help the body sweat out toxins through the pores using the powerful Bentonite Clay topically.
With chapters covering vegetables and salads, meat dishes, fish and seafood and sweets, Dalmatia reveals over 100 authentic recipes
Then they started noticing articles raving about the health benefits
such as pašticada (slow-cooked beef cheeks), Brujet (Dalmatian fish
of ingesting the clay. “After trying a two-week detox, drinking the
stew) and Torta Malcarana (almond cake from Makarska).
pure Bentonite Clay daily, I couldn’t believe how much better I felt: no more bloating and way less brain fog,” says Jonas.
Accompanied by stunning local photography of both the region and the culinary experiences and traditions it offers, Dalmatia will
28
Edible MUD is available via O’Farrell and Jonas’ online store:
transport you to the sparkling coastline of Croatia from your own
www.mudmudmud.com
kitchen.
NICK HADDOW – MILK MADE At a time where real cheese everywhere is under pressure from industrialised agriculture, Milk Made is your definitive guide to making the right choices about the cheese you buy and eat.
Embarking on a mission to close the gap between farm and cheese, Haddow celebrates centuriesold traditions of cheese-making and sheds a light on how these traditions are applied today.
Haddow is the brains behind the revered Bruny Island Cheese Co, so he knows a thing or two about cheese. In Milk Made, he shares this knowledge about making, serving and storing cheese at home, and includes 75 delicious recipes all built around your favourite foodstuff to boot; including a delicious saag paneer, or the perfect fondue.
Accompanied by photographer Alan Benson, Haddow documents his visits to internationally renowned cheesemakers across the globe from Australia to Europe to the US.
If cheese is your thing, Milk Made is a good place to start.
30
CAPRESE SALAD This classic dish from That’s Amore is super easy to make and captures the very essence of Italian food – a combination of simple, balanced, good quality produce that, when put together, is absolute magic.
Serves: 10 INGREDIENTS: 2 tomatoes 1 fresh That’s Amore Fior di Latte mozzarella ball or Buffalo Mozzarella Handful fresh basil leaves 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste METHOD: 1. Thickly slice the tomatoes and the mozzarella, overlapping alternating slices of each on a serving plate. 2. Tuck the whole basil leaves in between the tomato and mozzarella slices, then drizzle over the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
HANGED CACIOCAVALLO WITH RED CABBAGE SALAD Caciocavallo is a Southern Italian stretched-curd cheese made out of sheep’s or cow’s milk, similar in taste to Provolone cheese. That’s Amore share with us a beautiful and simple dish that could be served for a light lunch or dinner, or any time of day, really – because who’s going to say no to melty, gooey, delicious cheese on bread?
Serves: 4 INGREDIENTS: 1 red cabbage 1 That’s Amore Caciocavallo 4 slices of any bread you like (we used a sourdough loaf from our local bakery) 1 bunch parsley Extra virgin olive oil White wine vinegar METHOD 1. Cut the red cabbage very finely in order to get very thin slices (spaghetti-style). 2. Add chopped parsley, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and vinegar to taste. 3. Hang Caciocavallo over a barbecue flame and let it melt. Alternatively, slice it thickly and fry the slices in a pan until melted. 4. Carefully place the melted Caciocavallo onto the bread and serve with the red cabbage salad.
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REVIEWS PROMISED LAND COFFEE - HAWK BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
For those of you who don’t know your bible stories,
Promised Land has already made a name for themselves
The Promised Land was a covenant between God and
with their delivery service, bringing airpots filled with
Abraham, first mentioned in the book of Genesis. It
fresh filter coffee to workplaces and cafes each day,
would take a great journey and the ability to overcome
now adding espresso options for those wanting the full
adversity for his people to eventually settle there. It was
package.
to be a place of security and hope and somewhere to build a nation. So when husband and wife Jonathon and
Roasting is done three days a week and the coffee is
Erin Sciola – who both pastored a church in the Northern
micro-lot, truly specialty and always aged eight days.
suburbs – decided to start their coffee business, they
Because the grinder requires far less adjustment, the
knew exactly what they wanted to call it.
customers experience an unparalleled consistency in their cup. Their Hawk blend is predominantly comprised of a
The Hawk blend is available at: Mock Turtle - 34 Degraves St CBD Edamama - 727 Collins Street Docklands The Village Food Store - 126A Canterbury Rd Heathmont www.promisedlandcoffee.com
The name is representative of their journey, one that has
natural Honduras with some washed Colombian, resulting
its own challenges in a saturated market. It is a quest to
in a balanced brew with a sweet citrus acidity. It’s bright
provide cafes with exceptional quality and service in order
enough to get your taste buds tingling, but still rich and
to create a good life for themselves and their children.
smooth with a medium-caramel body.
Sciola had been working at St Ali as an account manager,
Wanting to buck the trend of dark-roasted, Italian-style
looking after 50 venues across the brand’s portfolio,
coffee in tourist-driven Degraves Street, the owners
training baristas, running cupping sessions and working
of Mock Turtle wanted to offer a blend that was more
in the roastery. He also helped set up a number of cafes
relevant to Melbourne’s coffee drinkers – and Hawk
which gave him an insight into what the owners actually
suits them perfectly. They choose to prepare it on a La
needed.
Marzocco for consistency and reliability.
According to Sciola, specialty coffee can’t stand alone;
With an eye on current trends and promoting themselves
it’s the product of many things. Like life, the journey from
as a healthy cafe with raw, gluten free and vegan options,
crop to cup has many speed bumps along the way and
Mock Turtle operates in a very busy Melbourne laneway,
while there may be a plan, things can go wrong. Baristas
so knowing they have Sciola’s support and expertise any
want to create the perfect coffee, but if they aren’t using
time of day is very reassuring.
the right equipment or have a lack of support, the end result will be sub-standard.
We have the privilege of being inhabitants of the world’s most liveable city, and know that Australia is an amazing
Understanding coffee with a crazy amount of knowledge
place to call home. This is our promised land, and we
of the science behind coffee and the technical aspects
deserve to drink only the best coffee. Thanks to passionate
required to produce it, Sciola delivers a level of customer
people like Jonathon and Erin Sciola, we always have that
service and product knowledge that is very rare in the
opportunity.
industry.
ASTRO BUNNY PET-NAT WORDS LAUREN BRUCE It’s easy to be charmed by Pet Nat-style wines. Their
The delicate fruity flavours reflect the colour of the drink
primary fermentation process is finished off in the bottle,
– a peachy, muted colour. This light pink hue, along with
which results in a deliciously light sparkling effect that
the gentle bubble, makes this an appealing drink inside
makes for super easy drinking. A more rustic sparkling
and out.
than champagne, the Pet Nat is perfect for those seeking something a little different.
Astro Bunny Pet-Nat RRP: $34.00
Deliciously creamy with a dry minerality that crisps up the wine significantly, the Astro Bunny Pet-Nat is full of apricot and peach flavour, the stonefruit hitting you almost straight away. Citrus, particularly grapefruit and orange, are in the mix as well, freshening up the wine.
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www.ravensworthwines.com.au
BAR/D UP REVIEW: POLLY In recent years, bar-hoppers have
Pizza, tapas and bar snacks keep
been flocking northside to experience
everyone happy, and the charcuterie
great bars close to the city and the
board is brilliant with a bottle of wine
surrounding suburbs, particularly in
to start the night. Once you’ve settled
Fitzroy; but way back in 2000, a new
in, you’ll never want to leave – and
and very different place called Polly
why would you when the atmosphere
opened up, setting the benchmark
is so special? If you feel like ending
for future bars in the area with great
your experience here like a boss, order
service and high-end cocktails.
a cigar from the humidor, sit outside and disappear under a veil of smoke
Recline on the plush velvet couches
as you plan your next visit… because,
and sip slowly on your beverage
regardless of how long it takes you,
surrounded by voluptuous rubenesque
Polly will be there waiting just as she
women adorning the walls in antique
always has.
gilded frames. Order an absinthe
Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video review
fountain and watch as the liquid drips
POLLY
gently over the sugar cubes and the
401 Brunswick Street
stresses of the day just melt away.
Fitzroy
Prefer a cocktail? You’re totally spoilt
Ph: 9417 0880
for choice as, since day one, the bar
pollybar.com.au
has been serving up serious drinks. This is why over fifteen years since its inception, Polly remains a Melbourne institution.
VALHALLA BREWING WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
Dedicated craft beer lovers are small in number compared to the wider beer community, but they are very vocal and not afraid to put their hand in their pocket to try something before anyone else. So when Torquay home brewer Scott Hunt launched an online crowdfunding campaign in early 2016 to kick off with a 7% Black IPA named Obsidian, he had no shortage of new investors. With the impressive success of Obsidian, you’ll be pleased to know Valhalla now run independently, and can be found most weeks at Red Duck Brewery in Ballarat, pumping out a diverse and impressive core range of beers. Apart from Obsidian (which is drinking really well right now), you’ll find a beer to suit most palates, with a special tip of the Bandwagon hat to the Illywhacker Australian Pale Ale. It’s a great example of how Galaxy, Topaz and Ella hops can work together while its malt base ensures you can enjoy a solid session. If you’re a David Bowie fan that thinks outside the box, the Ziggy Stardust session Red IPA is one that teases your palate and matches food across a broad range of cuisines. Then of course you have the Aragon IPA for hopheads, and Fenix Belgian Ale for those new to
Look out for a brand-spanking-new Valhalla Brewery on the Surf Coast somewhere over the next 12-18 months; but in the meantime, you can find Valhalla beers all over Melbourne and regional Victoria at good beer venues and bottleshops. Skoll! ORIGIN: Torquay (via Bendigo) BREWED: Red Duck, Ballarat BUY IT HERE: valhallabrewing.com.au
the craft beer world.
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OUT AND ABOUT
GREG MALOUF AT CURLY WHISKERS PHOTOGRAPHY DS IMAGES - DEAN SCHMIDEG
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In a one-night-only experience, Brighton crêperie Curly Whiskers hosted an intimate dinner with worldrenowned chef Greg Malouf. Malouf prepared a four-course Middle Eastern feast and spoke about leaving his home in Melbourne to open his latest venture, Zahira in Dubai.
THE DIARY
June 17 - 18, 2017
TRUFFLE MELBOURNE Queen Victoria Market
Inspired by European truffle celebrations, Truffle Melbourne Director and truffle grower Nigel Wood first introduced Melbourne to the world truffle festival stage in 2014. Three short years later Truffle Melbourne is now the largest truffle festival weekend outside Europe! Celebrating Australia’s new found place as the fourth largest truffle growing nation, Truffle Melbourne’s aim is to demystify the truffle and bring you unique winter food and wine experiences.
June 10 - 12 - Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend
HEATHCOTE ON SHOW FESTIVAL June 16 - 25, 2017
Heathcote, Victoria
Daylesford, Victoria
The central Goldfields town of Heathcote is readying for its annual wine and food festival, a three-day event that offers visitors the opportunity to sample the region’s very best award winning wines.
DAYLESFORD MACEDON PRODUCE HARVEST FESTIVAL
During the winter black truffle season, join truffle growers across the country, Australia’s best truffle chefs and the finest food and beverage producers to celebrate the delights of the truffle. Truffle Melbourne presents an event program unlike any other and last year 32,000 guests enjoyed one or more of our events.
Australia’s most dynamic and picturesque food and wine region will again host its famous Harvest Festival from June 16 to 25, 2017. The festival is a celebration of the harvest of Central Victoria, showcasing the region’s abundant food and wine, and celebrating the best of our producers, farmers, provedores, restaurateurs and vignerons.
Truffles are an accessible seasonal luxury and the perfect flavour enhancer for their food and drink companions. Everyone starts their truffle journey in a different place: a great truffled pizza, an exquisite truffle dish at a restaurant, experimenting at home with fresh truffle and truffled scrambled eggs for breakfast. Truffle Melbourne peels away the mystique and shares truffle stories, secrets and tastes.
The Daylesford Macedon Region, widely known throughout Australia for its diversity of high-quality produce and vibrant food culture, and for being one of Australia’s most dynamic and picturesque food and wine regions, will throw open its doors to the public once more.
In 2017 you’ll find a program of exceptional truffle experiences, as well as an “everything truffle” retail and online store. The festival is working with truffle produce makers in Australia and around the world to bring you the best from Italy, France, Spain, the US and Australia. trufflemelbourne.com
The Festival hosts events for everyone from culinary tourists, to families, nature enthusiasts, the local community and industry professionals. Authentic experiences from farm visits, gardening talks, and classes on everything from sausage making to bee keeping; to special winemaker and chef’s dinners and classes, are designed to inspire, provoke thought and take our visitors on a path of self-discovery. Visitors are encouraged to visit farm gates and cellar doors throughout the region, take advantage of the many special harvest week offers, shop with the locals at the farmers markets, or taste their way around the region by visiting our many varied cafes and restaurants.
More than 40 winemakers will be on hand for winery tours, winemaking classes and with 30 cellar doors, plenty of opportunity to sample and buy award winning wines, museum releases and many new white and red varietals. Enjoy many food and wine locations offering cheese, olives, antipasto platters and winter favourites plus live music. You can also BYO a picnic and enjoy the views and beautiful surroundings the wineries offer. Throughout the long weekend, many wineries also take the opportunity to launch their new release wines. Whilst Heathcote is renowned for its premium Shiraz wines, it is also home to many other red and white varietals harvested from its famous ancient red Cambrian soils. The heritage town’s many restaurants and cafés are also gearing up to create menus using homegrown regional produce to create a variety of culinary dishes designed to please the most discerning gourmand. Add to that a variety of musical events, arts and crafts and kiddie’s amusement and you have a real family festival weekend. The local Market will be held on Saturday 10 June and the High Street will have vintage cars on display, pony rides, face painting and the petting zoo full of baby animals for the kids. Transport to Heathcote will be made available with Shuttle buses operating excursions from the town centre to the region’s wineries and cellar doors throughout the long weekend. Lock away the weekend now and contact the Heathcote Visitors Centre (03) 54333121 for more information and accommodation options, or check out heathcoteonshow.com.au for what’s on show and for all booking details.
dmproduce.com.au/dmpharvest-festival
June 25, 2017
ITALIAN FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Royal Exhibition Building, Carlton Gardens
Everything that’s good about eating and drinking in Italy comes together under one roof in June with the second Melbourne Italian Wine + Food Festival. Journey through Italy with over 200 wines to taste, meet winemakers and importers, or attend an Italian wine masterclass. Feast on pizza, pasta and Italian snacks in pop-up restaurants, while Melbourne’s top Italian chefs share their joy for cooking on the main stage. Taste your way through the Italian Market - salumi, cheese, pasta, gelato and more. Sip on an authentic Italian cocktail from the Negroni Bar and relax in one of the festival wine gardens.
June 10, 2017
June 10 -12, 2017
Captain Baxter - 10 - 18 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda
Mornington Peninsula
A variety of gin for an exclusive dining event celebrating World Gin Day. Bespoke gin producers will come together to present a Gin masterclass at Captain Baxter.
The Winter Wine Festival - an exhibition and tasting which traditionally marks the beginning of the extensive Winter Wine Weekend program. One place, on one day. All undercover, where you can taste more than 200 premium wines from around 50 wineries. Tickets include all tastings, Riedel wine glass, tasting book which includes all wines on exhibition and two entree size dishes.
A VARIETY OF GINS
This ginstronomy masterclass will showcase Australian boutique gins and how they pair with the exquisite food by Captain Baxter.
Proudly presented by Smeg, the festival is all about celebrating wine, food and culture together in inimitable Italian style.
Includes cocktails and canapes on arrival, threecourse sit-down dinner with matched gins.
italianwinefoodfestival.com.au
facebook.com/CaptainBaxter
WINTER WINE WEEKEND
mpva.com.au/events/detail/WinterWine-Weekend
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