SHOP Milan AW16

MILAN | МИЛАН | 米兰 | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17

Page 70 MILAN MUSTHAVES: discover the season’s easy-to-wear designer pieces for men

MOSCHINO BOUTIQUE via Sant’Andrea 25 - Milano

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 16

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this world-renowned style centre. Milan has much to ofer, as our guide on page 108 reveals. Readers who appreciate designer-led homewares will enjoy our feature on page 78, and in this issue we also explore some of the city’s best pasta restaurants (page 94).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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Emma Cheevers

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Milan

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CONTRIBUTORS

ILLUSTRATION: UNA

UNA Andrew Archer and Kelly Thompson are the designers behind creative studio UNA. With more than 20 years of experience in the industry, they were the perfect choice to illustrate the cover for this season’s SHOP Milan. The fashion-forward illustration is based on our feature about the latest menswear from Milan’s leading designer clothing labels (see page 70).

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant. She has contributed the cover feature for this edition of SHOP Milan about the season’s designer menswear. Beth likes to spend her spare time skiing in the Alps. globalblue.com

Ximena Daneri SHOP’s fashion editor Ximena Daneri studied fashion and textile design in her home city of Buenos Aires before working as an image consultant for TV shows and styling fashion shoots. Ximena is an avid photographer.

Ginger Clark Ginger Clark recently joined the SHOP team as news editor.

She has an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion and, before joining SHOP, she worked as a fashion stylist. Ginger has previously contributed to a number of other publications.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone

Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Cover illustrator UNA

Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou

Contributors Beth Druce, Dominique Fenn Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis

Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley

City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles

Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina

Fashion editor Ximena Daneri

Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews

Senior designer Yuese Shi

Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou

Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne

Content corporate production manager Steve Brown

Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya

Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern

Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva

SHOP is published

by Global Blue

Product manager Devesh Sankadecha

Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku

Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: MAX ZAMBELLI

p.78

Products

Features

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season My Favourites Chiara Pisa from Pisa Orologeria reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2016/17 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Milan’s best dressed this season

News 50

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News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Gabriella Scarpa at Acqua di Parma’s flagship boutique on Via Gesù

Above: Missoni Home Santafè Seattle sofa

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Cover story: Ready To Wear Leading designers have taken the fashion world by surprise this season by showing accessible pieces on the catwalks, which are waiting to take pride of place in your wardrobe, Beth Druce reports Inside Story The worlds of fashion and interior design are becoming increasingly intertwined – and Italy is leading the way, reports Dominique Fenn The Right Touch From classic jumpers to on-trend jumpsuits, cashmere specialist Falconeri is designing desirable clothing for contemporary consumers. By Hannah Lewis

MIRANDA KERR UPSTATE NEW YORK, APRIL 2016 MARELLA.COM MILANO C.SO VITTORIO EMANUELE C.SO XXII MARZO 4

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CONTENTS p.94 PHOTO: COURTESY OF UN POSTO A MILANO

Experience 94

Table Talk In Milan, pasta is still the dish of the day.

Katie Muxworthy visits some of the city’s best restaurants for this classic fare 102 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Guide 108 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

Essentials 142 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 144 Русский Перевод 152 美文翻译 156 日本語翻訳

Souvenir 162 The essential item to bring home

PHOTO: YOANN STOECKEL

p.102

Above (from top): Un Posto a Milano; Hôtel Des Galeries

featuring BRET EASTON ELLIS and CAROLINE VREELAND shop at santonishoes.com

MILANO - Via Monte Napoleone, 6 - Ph. +39 02 76280508

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CHECK OUT

BOHO BOX When Miu Miu brings out a new accessory style, you can be sure it will sell out. The brand’s latest release is a small cross-body bag in a boxy shape with gold details. This black version follows the popular bohemian style trend. It also features gold and silver studs, details in red, green and white, intricate embellishment and a Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

convenient cross-body strap. Pair it with a smart suit for the daytime or an elegant maxidress for dinner; it will not only become your favourite bag for this season, but will also take you through to the summer. fm Miu Miu Dahlia bag, price on request, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

V I A MON T E N AP OL E ON E 12 - MILANO

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MY FAVOURITES: CHIARA PISA Chiara Pisa is the young creative director at Pisa Orologeria, one of Italy’s leading retailers of luxury watches. After graduating from Bocconi University in Milan she joined the family business in 2008, helping to develop the company. Pisa Orologeria has introduced a flagship store where more than 40 world-class timepiece brands are available and it also operates boutiques for Rolex and Patek Philippe.

Chiara Pisa shares her favourite items for autumn/ winter 2016/17 with Ximena Daneri

1. ‘I love to lose myself among the colours, aromas and favours at Eataly, which has the best Italian cuisine’ Eataly, Piazza XXV Aprile 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4949 7301, eataly.net

2. ‘I can’t do without this face tonic, which cleanses and refreshes my skin: it’s a little relief during the most demanding days’ Acqua Distillata alle Rose Tonico Rinfrescante, 100ml, €3.59, Coin, Piazza Cinque Giornate 1, 20129 Milan, +39 02 5519 2083, acquaallerose.it

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

3. ‘My favourite item this season is Gucci’s bomber jacket; it’s versatile with a strong personality’ Gucci bomber jacket, €4,500, Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

PHOTOS: (PROFILE) MARCO SCARPA/SKORPIONPRESS; (1) RICCARDO BUCCHINO/FROZENLIGHT.IT

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4. ‘Without a doubt, Italia Independent is one of my favourite brands, for its innovative designs and avantgarde materials’ Italia Independent sunglasses, €160, Italia Independent, Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 3358, italiaindependent.com

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5. ‘We ofer more than 40 watch brands in our store. I usually wear sports watches in steel and gold’ Pisa Orologeria, Via Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, pisaorologeria.com

globalblue.com

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ON BOARD From stylish leather bags to cabin cases incorporating the latest technology, today’s travel accessories are anything but boring 1

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1. BeoPlay H6 headphones, €299, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193, bang-olufsen.com

3. Rolex watch, from €5,000, Gobbi 1842, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 0536, rolex.com

5. Montblanc Samsung Galaxy phone case, €160, Montblanc, Via Montenapoleone 27B, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7720, montblanc.com

2. Boss backpack, €745, Boss, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667, hugoboss.com

4. Canali wallet, €180, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.it

6. Rimowa Topas Stealth suitcase with electronic tag, €929, Rimowa, Piazza San Fedele 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 864104, rimowa.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

PHOTO: (1) RASMUS DENGSØ; (3) ©ROLEX/ALAIN COSTA; (4) ALTO

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MILITARY CHIC Combine an army-style double-breasted coat with black and gold accessories

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1. Burberry coat, €2,595, Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com

3. Bulgari glasses, €230, Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com

2. Vivienne Westwood Konstantin Figa bangle, €46, Vivienne Westwood, Corso Venezia 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7608 0222, viviennewestwood.com

4. Tod’s boots, €750, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Chanel lipstick, €33, Coin, Piazza Cinque Giornate, 20129 Milan, +39 02 5519 2083, chanel.com

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6. Givenchy bag, price on request, Givenchy, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 3710, givenchy.com 7. Cartier watch, from €47,000, Cartier, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 303 0421, cartier.com

globalblue.com

8. Buccellati Opera necklace, €2,700, Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com

9. Elizabeth Arden Skin Renewal Booster cream, 30ml, €59, Key Be Profumerie, Via Panflo Castaldi 41, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2940 5748, elizabetharden.com

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STAND OUT IN STYLE

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Add interest to your outfit with contrasting prints

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1. Prada boots, price on request, Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63-65, 20121 Milan, +39 02 876979, prada.com

3. Marni bag, €270, Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

2. Tak Ori jumper, €572, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, tak-ori.com

4. Delvaux bracelet, price on request, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, delvaux.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Penhaligon’s Luna eau de parfum, 100ml, €149, Penhaligon’s, Via Brera 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3659 2901, penhaligons.com

PHOTO: (4) FILIP VANZIELEGHEM

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BRAND-NEW BAGS

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1. Trussardi bag, €1,550, Trussardi, Piazza della Scala 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8068 8242, trussardi.com

3. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,350, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0054, ferragamo.com

2. Valextra bag, €1,850, Valextra, Via Manzoni 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9978 6060, valextra.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

4. Furla Metropolis S Crossbody Megamix bag, €620, Furla, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II/ Via San Paolo, 20122 Milan, +39 02 796943, furla.com

PHOTO: (3) TOCCAFONDO RAVI

Handbags are updated with textures and embellishments, featuring fur, bold patterns and metallic chains. Take your pick from the best this season

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SUAVE AND SEASONAL

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Embroidered suede footwear is the centre of attention in this look, with contrasting textures in navy and grey

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1. Acne Studios Min coat, €600, Excelsior Milano, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, acnestudios.com

3. Dior Homme Sauvage eau de toilette, from €49, Douglas, Corso Buenos Aires/ Via Panflo Castaldi 42, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2941 2470, dior.com

2. Borsalino hat, €190, Borsalino, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 878910, borsalino.com

4. Fratelli Rossetti shoes, €480, Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Ermenegildo Zegna gloves, €550, Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com

PHOTOS: (4) PAOLO MARCHESI; (5) CARLO BEVILACQUA

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HIGH FASHION Heavily embellished black shoes add an interesting touch to your winter wardrobe

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1. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €648, Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com

3. Dolce & Gabbana shoes, €995, Dolce & Gabbana, Corso Venezia 13, 20122 Milan, +39 02 799135, dolcegabbana.com

2. Hermès shoes, €570, Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com

4. Etro shoes, €650, Etro, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 5049, etro.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Jimmy Choo shoes, €825, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

PHOTOS: (1) LEONARDO RINALDESI; (2) VICENTE SAHUC; (4) 46AND2 STUDIO; (5) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

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GET TACTILE Seek out beautifully textured shearling and suede statement pieces this season

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1. Corneliani jacket, €980, Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

3. Cos cap, €35, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com

2. Santoni shoes, €430, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

4. Diesel jeans, €140, Diesel, Piazza San Babila 1-3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7639 6762, diesel.com

PHOTO: (2) ROBERTO MAZZOLA

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MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

C.so Vercelli, 35

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so XXII Marzo, 5

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

C.so Genova, 20

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STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Contrasting textures and bold patterns dominated at Milan Fashion Week with statement colours from Fendi and Gucci leading the way

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

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globalblue.com

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STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: ANDREW BARBER/OMNISTYLE

Add accents of navy and burgundy to your winter wardrobe to create a look set to rival Milan’s fashion elite

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

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globalblue.com

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SHOP WINDOW

PERFECT FIT Over the years, Brioni has come to stand for gentlemanly class and sartorial elegance. It is therefore fitting that a majestic and historical Milanese palazzo serves as the setting for the house’s largest flagship store. The inside is light and spacious with an interior design that reflects Brioni’s style. Marble tables, Poltrona Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

Frau armchairs and lamps designed exclusively for Brioni provide the finishing touches to an elegant environment. As well as exploring Brioni’s collections while in the store, make time to find out about the company’s tailormade Su Misura service. gc Brioni, Via Gesù 2-4, 20121 Milan, 39 02 7639 0086, brioni.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

Milano Via della Spiga, 42 tel. 02 76015435

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EASY STYLE Marella’s extensive range of chic clothing, elegant footwear and covetable bags is designed with glamorous, modern women in mind.

The Marella Art 365 collection aims to make fashionable dressing as easy as possible. Contemporary shapes and clean lines result in a striking collection centred around two-piece styles, jumpsuits and waistcoat dresses. All items in the range are conveniently crease-proof and washable for low maintenance while offering very stylish dressing. gc Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 2747, marella.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

HIGH-FLYING TECH Move2, Piquadro’s recently launched line of cases, uses technology to help take the stress out of travel. A leather tag attached to each case is equipped with a small device which connects to a smartphone app – if the case is lost or stolen, an alarm is sounded on your phone. Four sizes are available, including a cabin-sized case (€325) and a larger trolley option (€355) – both pictured. gc Piquadro, Corso Buenos Aires 10, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2941 9181, piquadro.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 138

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

match made in denim

Diesel Planet Store Milan piazza San Babila, 1/3

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For a head-turning coat to see you through the winter months, MP Massimo Piombo is a must-visit. Inside the captivating store, creeping plants blend perfectly with the impeccably cut coats and colour-pop scarves made with high-quality fabrics. This season, one floor is dedicated to menswear and another to womenswear. Men can opt for sedate options in black-textured fabrics or grey wool, or can go bolder with a trench coat in green and black check, belted at the waist. Meanwhile, women can choose from red and black woollen coats, velvet blazers and tuxedo jackets. sm MP Massimo Piombo, Piazza San Marco 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 5718, mpmassimopiombo.com

PHOTOS: (BOTH) MARCO DABBICCO

PHOTO: GIULIO OLDRINI

TOP COAT

FINE DINING Tucked away just off Via Torino, Laboratorio Paravicini is a small workshop that creates exquisite ceramic pieces ranging from coffee and tea sets to vases, tiles and candlesticks. Printed or hand-painted designs are applied to each ceramic before being numbered and then glazed.

The latest collection features eight plates with Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

beautiful garden motifs, available in teal or pink, where lilies and delicate flowers can be spied among the leafy designs. A far cry from mass-produced homewares, these are highly desirable pieces. gc Laboratorio Paravicini, Via Nerino 8, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 1006, paravicini.com

Milano, Corso Giacomo Mateot 5 Milano Linate and Milano Malpensa Airport (DEPARTURE AREA) shop online harmontblaine.com

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OUTSIDE THE BOX The recently opened Bernasconi boutique on Via Manzoni is the perfect backdrop for the brand’s new selection of black-lacquered wooden boxes topped with animal motifs.

These captivating creatures, which include a lion, horse and a coral snake, have been crafted in silver and hand-painted. Available in a range of sizes, the multipurpose boxes were launched during the famous Salone del Mobile design show. Dating back to 1872, Bernasconi continues to innovate with its selection of unique homewares and objets d’art. sm

Bernasconi Milano 1872, Via Manzoni 44, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 0923, bernasconi1872.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 128

AKRIS COMES TO ITALY

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 124

COOL KIDS Gusella, a Milanese label established in 1932, specialises in delightful children’s shoes and clothing. The brand has never lost sight of its artisanal heritage and continues to make beautiful pieces from high-quality materials.

Items for young ones up to the age of 10 include tartan shorts for boys and tulle dresses for girls.

Decorated in the classic colour combination of gold and red, the store has a nostalgic feel.

Black and white images hang on the walls and a large teddy bear is ready to welcome shoppers of all ages. gc Gusella, Via della Spiga 31, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0778, gusella.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 124

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) AKRIS AG / AKRIS PRET-A-PORTER AG

Swiss brand Akris has opened its first standalone boutique in Italy. Creative director Albert Kriemler has long sourced the majority of his fabrics from Italy, and felt that the opening of a store in Milan was a natural progression for the brand. The store combines modern and classical elements to create a sleek and sophisticated space featuring marble floors, rich brown leather sofas and chrome. With the final touch brought by a Norman Cherner chair, the interior design makes for an environment that feels both leisurely and chic. Visitors will find the latest Akris and Akris Punto collections here as well as the label’s accessories collections – while you’re in the store, be sure to look out for the trapezoidal Ai bag (pictured). hl Akris, Via della Spiga 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8295 1310, akris.ch

loriblu.com

SHOWROOM - MILANO - Corso Vittorio Emanuele 22 - Tel. +39 02 76341350 FLAGSHIP STORE - MILANO - Via Manzoni 19 - T. +39 02 72022800

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BE BOLD

WORLD CLASS Visitors to the Antonio Croce flagship store in Milan will be able to discover the world of the luxury Italian womenswear label. The collections take their inspiration from cities such as Shanghai and New York, yet are made in Italy. Drawing on the skills and precision of Italian craftsmanship, the designs highlight Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

Dsquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

feminine beauty. At the store, the ground floor offers the chance to peruse the new collection with its beautiful fabrics, exquisite details and flattering shapes, while on the upper floor a personal shopping service is available. gc Antonio Croce, Via Alessandro Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4538 6120, antoniocroce.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 128

PHOTO: (TOP) ANDREA MAGNA

Tartan gets a stylish update this season thanks to fashion label Dsquared2. Twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten, the brand’s founders, have introduced a distinctive look for autumn/winter, fusing punk style with Japanese influences resulting in a range of leather, denim and fur-trimmed pieces. As east meets west, distinctive elements such as kilts and prints based on manga culture come together harmoniously in the collection. Unexpected pairings are the highlight of the menswear collection, such as kimono-style outerwear worn with tartan shirts tied casually around the waist. Make a statement this winter, while keeping warm, in a green and blue checked hat with fur ear flaps (₏550). km

MIL ANO Corso Vit torio Emanuele

O L I V I A PA L E R M O m a x a n d c o.c o m

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BUCCELLATI UPDATED flooring, and display cases in glass and gold.

Seek out re-launched bestsellers from the Blossoms collection and the caviar bowls from the collaboration with Murano glassware brand Venini. sm Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 122

PHOTO: ‘AND MARTIRA’

Italian purveyor of glittering finery, Buccellati has recently opened the doors of its revamped Via Montenapoleone store, bringing it in line with the look of the label’s stores in Paris and New York. The new boutique pays respect to Buccellati’s heritage while looking contemporary and features mirrors, Damask fabric-covered walls, wooden panels, parquet

TAKE TIME As the most complicated watch ever made by Panerai, the Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT is a masterpiece of haute horlogerie. The Carillon is inspired by seafaring and the crucial role of the bell on board a ship, whether to mark time or as an alarm in dangerous situations. The watch features a melodic chime, a groundbreaking double hour and minute repeater function for local time and a second time zone, and a tourbillon regulator, visible thanks to artful skeletonisation. Costing around €359,000, each Carillon is made to order. gc Officine Panerai, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3600 0008, panerai.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 122 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

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INSIDER TIP Alberto Biani has been working in the fashion industry for 45 years and during this time has launched a variety of labels and has even collaborated with Valentino.

His experience and insider knowledge translate into exceptional output. Alberto Biani’s collections for women mainly focus on trousers and autumn/winter 2016/17 is no different. When you’ve found your ideal pair, chose a heavy tweed coat or an impeccably cut tiger-print coat from the collection. Another of our favourites from Alberto Biani this season is the three-piece pinstriped suit in the perfect shade of café au lait. sm Alberto Biani, Via Viviani 2, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6716 0000, albertobiani.com

ON THE ROAD Enhance your trip to Milan with Zani Viaggi, the city tour specialist. Zani Viaggi’s coach trips take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, and shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets are also available. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the second largest outlet in Europe, Fidenza Village, Vicolungo the Style Outlet and Franciacorta Outlet Village. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border to Switzerland, to the stores at FoxTown.

Wherever you go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli/Via Cusani, 20121 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110/130 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

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© Samsonite 2016 MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso - ROMA House of Samsonite via del Tritone 149 SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)

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AT HOME Armani Casa’s Milan store recently moved from Via Sant’Andrea to a vast new space on Corso Venezia. From the outside, the store’s 16 windows will entice you to enter and discover the brand’s offering, which is displayed across four floors. The Armani Casa collection encompasses furniture and textiles through to decorative objects. Highlights of the new range include Murano glass goblets, exquisite dinner sets and architectural furniture, such as the Leonard unit which can be made with drawers and shelves, or without in order to house a television. Elsewhere, classic items have been updated for the new season: the Club bar cabinet, for example, has been reimagined in specially treated brass and comes with doors displaying an ocean-themed scene. This captivating piece is available in a limited edition of only 50 numbered and signed items. sm Armani Casa, Corso Venezia 14, 20121 Milan, armanicasa.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 117

MOON WALK Two Italian companies have joined forces for autumn/ winter 2016/17: fashion label MSGM has collaborated with footwear brand Moon Boot. The resulting capsule collection sees classic Moon Boot styles receiving a stylish update, decorated with MSGM’s distinctive and colourful prints. Armed with a pair of these statement boots, there’s no doubt you’ll be sartorially ready to brave the cold winter months. gc MSGM, Via Ponte Vetero 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3659 5680, msgm.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 134

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IN STORE: ACQUA DI PARMA

PHOTOS: (BOTH) PAN

Acqua di Parma’s famous classic cologne is marking its 100th anniversary.

The company’s CEO and president Gabriella Scarpa spoke to Ximena Daneri about the company’s history and fagship boutique on Via Gesù

‘Acqua di Parma dates back to the beginning of the 20th century, when Baron Carlo Magnani, the heir to one of Parma’s oldest families, created Acqua di Parma Colonia, the first truly Italian cologne. From then on, the brand has become synonymous with excellence in craftsmanship and with an awareness of elegance and beauty. Since 1916, Acqua di Parma Colonia has established itself as a timeless classic. Its fresh and elegant blend has remained unchanged in a century, and its art deco bottle combined with the emblematic Parma yellow of its packaging have made this an iconic product.

‘We opened our first boutique in 1997 at Via Gesù 3 and in 2012 we moved to a prestigious location at Via Gesù 1, on the corner of Via Montenapoleone, which is very much in line with our high-end positioning. As with all elements of Acqua di Parma I was involved in every aspect of the design of this store, from the initial drawings to the finished result, of which I am incredibly proud.

‘As well as our fragrances we have candles and leather accessories, and a pen collection in collaboration with the historical Italian brand Aurora. You can find our products in the most luxurious hotels worldwide, or you can experience a special treatment at our Blu Mediterraneo spas and at our barber’s. Our Italian heritage is our main source of inspiration and each Acqua di Parma product is crafted in selected Italian workshops.

‘When leaving the Via Gesù boutique, I’m sure that guests will take with them the olfactory memory of a unique and welcoming environment, which has been designed to cater to the tastes of those who favour the purest Italian style – the style of Acqua di Parma.’

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

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Milano | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66 10 Stores in the City

MADE IN

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READY TO WEAR Leading designers have taken the fashion world by surprise this season by showing accessible pieces on the catwalks – and these are waiting to take pride of place in your wardrobe. Beth Druce reports Opposite: Emporio Armani at Milano Moda Uomo autumn/winter 2016/17

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In Gucci’s show, Alessandro Michele’s intense and ornate designs were evident, but in addition to brocade suits and silk pyjamas were far more accessible pieces. Unstructured pleat-front trousers in deep greens and indigo blues were loose cut to give a casual, livedin feel. Knitwear, the backbone of a stylish winter wardrobe, comprised chic, Andy Warhol-esque polo necks layered underneath loose-knit jumpers with wide necks and cropped sleeves. For the more adventurous, long grandpa cardigans came in Schiaparelli pink, while others featured teddy bears and collars trimmed with fur. And then there were the block-colour single-breasted blazers; lightweight, loosely tailored and – much like Michele himself does – worn open and loose, with a smile and without a care.

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Above (both): Gucci at Milano Moda Uomo autumn/winter 2016/17

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e’ve become used to seeing conceptual creations in the designer collections: tricky-to-wear pieces which make a big impact on the catwalk, but can be difcult to incorporate when it comes to day-to-day dressing. So when a furry of wearable fashion was shown at a major fashion event for autumn/winter 2016/17, industry insiders took note. At Milano Moda Uomo, where menswear collections from the most infuential designers are shown, cutting-edge concepts were tempered by shapes, textures and tailoring all within comfortable reach of the man on the street.

‘There was an air of humility in Milan,’ Charlie Porter said in his menswear round-up for the Financial Times, noting that designers want to ‘engage’ customers around the world.

Although many collections carried statementheavy themes there were a signifcant number of individual pieces at Milano Moda Uomo which spoke directly to consumers.

Prada is a fashion house which has a penchant for complex fashion dialogue at its core, so it was intriguing to see designer Miuccia Prada illustrate her message with accessible pieces. The overarching theme this season is the navy, with sailor’s jackets leading the charge. The jackets were rich with Napoleonic touches and there were large

buttons, open collars, long and short lengths, and single- and double-breasted versions. Some were in pale-brown lightweight cotton, others in navy or black wool. There were tartans too, with blazers and coats in brownish greys; the most striking featured wide lapels that opened to reveal a brightly coloured furry lining.

Tomas Maier has injected considered, urban sensibility into the latest collection for Bottega Veneta which is likely to have customers rushing to the boutiques. Bottega Veneta’s archetypal luxury is well represented – through the use of copious amounts of cashmere and elegant, elongated silhouettes – and realised in a traditional colour palette which includes shades of Yves Klein blue and

Above (from left): Prada at Milano Moda Uomo autumn/winter 2016/17; Bottega Veneta, also at the event

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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once again (these are likely to be the trouser of the season), this time in soft wool, leather and even denim. Elsewhere at Emporio Armani it is all about texture, with suits in bouclé and twill, collarless blazers in tonal grey herringbone, and simple uncomplicated knitwear that can be layered under suits – a combination that is fast becoming the look du jour.

Years ago, before the men’s collections had such an esteemed position at fashion’s table, menswear was all about subtle details. The industry then started to grow and boundaries were pushed, but what happened on the catwalk wasn’t always easy to translate into pieces for day-to-day life. The autumn/winter 2016/17 collections, with their impressive ranges of, quite literally, ready-to-wear pieces, might just ofer what every man needs

nicely aged pinot noir. Heavy coats are trimmed with fur and lined with yellow and black twill, while patches of tartan appear on the shoulders of jumpers and coat lapels. Maier’s approach is clever: luxe-dressing with a measured degree of edge is intriguing but won’t alienate customers.

The future is bright at Versace, where Donatella Versace has taken classic pieces and turned them a vivid shade of purple. Heavy, unstructured coats with dufe-inspired design work, angora cardigans, tailored slim-ftting suits, beanie hats and bags have all been given the lilac treatment. This might not render them easily wearable together, but in isolation each piece is accessible and will work with other items in your wardrobe.

‘No-one else makes clothes that are so reach-out-and-touch,’ Tim Blanks noted about the Emporio Armani collection in the Business of Fashion. And this is a collection that makes you want to do just that. Loose, unstructured trousers made an appearance Above (from top): Emporio Armani; Versace, both at Milano Moda Uomo autumn/winter 2016/17

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

This season’s designer collections might just offer what every man needs for the winter

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INSIDE STORY

PHOTO: ANDREA FERRARI

The worlds of fashion and interior design are becoming increasingly intertwined – and Italy is leading the way, reports Dominique Fenn

Opposite: Pàislig fabric, Dedar

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our home is your castle. It’s your sanctuary as well, and nowadays it’s also likely to be an extension of your personal style. Social media sites such as Instagram and Pinterest provide an insight into some of the world’s most stylish houses and apartments, prompting us to update our own living spaces.

Seasonal style influences for the home are often inspired by what is happening in the fashion industry. But while fashion trends are quickly translated from the catwalk to the stores, the pace of change for interiors items has always been slower, because of the longer production time required – there is typically

a lag of five years from the runway to the furniture showroom.

Now, however, clothing labels are introducing pieces for the home, resulting in synergies across colour palettes, fabrics and materials, and interiors companies are looking to clothing designers to make their products more fashionable: take the highprofile collaboration between Raf Simons and textile company Kvadrat, for example, while on the high street, Ikea has set up a series of partnerships with European designers including Katie Eary and Walter van Beirendonck.

As well as leading the way in luxury fashion, Italy also hosts the world’s largest interior design fair, Salone del Mobile 146 157

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Above (from left): Gucci resort collection 2016 featuring a lion and a wolf motif

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As well as leading the way in luxury fashion, Italy also hosts the world’s largest interior design fair, Salone del Mobile. With 1,300 exhibitors and more than 300,000 visitors, it is a testament to the country’s affinity with brilliant design. Marni now releases a limited-edition furniture collection at the event each year. For 2016, it showcased chairs, small tables, lamps and vases in metal and wood decorated with brightly coloured handwoven PVC cords, made by women in Colombia as part of a community support project. It’s no surprise that such pieces sell out very quickly.

A perfect example of an Italian fashion company that is fully embracing homeware is Gucci, which now owns the historic porcelain tableware company Richard Ginori. The enterprise was established in Florence in 1735

by Carlo Ginori, a nobleman who searched Tuscany for kaolin, the clay mineral that is crucial in the making of porcelain. Pieces

by Richard Ginori became prized for their impeccable quality, and hand-painted Above (clockwise from top left): Catene and Labirinto table lamps; plate from the Babele collection; coffee pot from the Antico Doccia – Toscana Bario collection; three plates from the Perroquets collection, all Richard Ginori

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT, TOP RIGHT, BOTTOM) ENRICO CONTI

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While we may not change our décor as often as we change our outfits, it is easier than ever to make your home as fashionable as you are

Above (clockwise from top): Missoni Home Santafè Seattle sofa; Versace Home Etoiles de la Mer silk robe and slippers; Missoni Home cylindrical pouffe

Richard Ginori designs can be found in luxury hotels and even the Vatican.

Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele, who is celebrated for marrying the fashion house’s heritage with his romantic vision, is now also at the creative helm of Richard Ginori. Showing respect for the history of the company, he has selected archived pieces and reinterpreted them for today’s clients.

Michele’s ability to tell stories through his designs and skill in mixing and matching prints and shapes can now be seen across Gucci’s textiles as well as Richard Ginori’s porcelain.

In Michele’s adaptation of Richard Ginori’s Lion, Wolf and Bearded Man design, the heads of these three figures feature on differently sized porcelain vases and were reproduced on belt buckles and accessories for Gucci’s 2016 resort collection.

A return to opulence on the catwalk and in the home is being welcomed by Versace, which has introduced four new homeware lines.

Leopard and zebra prints are to be expected,

PHOTO: ANDREA FERRARI

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while other themes include ocean-inspired motifs across pastel-coloured pieces. Meanwhile Missoni, with its instantly recognisable zigzagpatterned clothing, uses the same vibrant prints on its cushions, rugs, bedlinen and tableware.

Dedar, which specialises in textiles for interiors, is renowned for its craftsmanship and exploration of fine fabrics. Established in 1976, it is based close to Como in the north of Italy, a region that has produced fabrics such as silk for centuries. The company’s aim is to create beautiful and sophisticated textiles that blur the line between art, fashion and design. Its latest collection is a culmination of extensive research into textiles resulting in Dedar taking fabrics that are most commonly used in the fashion industry, such as moleskin, burette silk and twill, and adapting them for interiors.

While we may not change our décor as often as we change our outfits, a new direction in the design world, and the increasing range of options available, mean it is easier than ever to make your home as fashionable as you are

Above (from left): tableware from the Rosenthal meets Versace collection; Tricot Rayure fabric by Dedar

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From classic jumpers to on-trend jumpsuits, cashmere specialist Falconeri is designing desirable clothing for contemporary consumers.

By Hannah Lewis

Above: Falconeri autumn/winter 2016/17

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hen it comes to winter dressing, there is nothing quite like the feel of soft cashmere against the skin. Made from fibres obtained from cashmere goats, this wool is softer and finer than sheep’s wool, lighter yet warmer, and has been a favourite among discerning consumers for centuries.

This luxurious fabric has been popular in certain parts of the world, including Asia, for thousands of years and yet it wasn’t until the 1400s that it started to become desirable on other continents. Due to the intricate and time-consuming processes involved in its production, cashmere remained a luxury item for centuries. And while nowadays more affordable cashmere is available, labels such as Falconeri are proving that only the best will do, offering superb-quality, fashion-forward pieces.

Founded in 1999, Falconeri quickly became respected for its commitment to quality. Ten years later it came under the control of the dynamic Italian clothing company Calzedonia, which has ensured that Falconeri’s traditional values run alongside contemporary design flair.

Falconeri’s focus remains on quality and the company is constantly researching the

Above: a selection from Falconeri’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

Falconeri’s garments are made from superior natural yarns

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The collection includes classic pieces, designed to be worn time and again, alongside items with a fashionable edge best techniques and processes, old and new.

Its garments are made from superior natural yarns which are woven using traditional methods. Each step – from the design sketches to the creation of each item of clothing to the packaging – is carried out at Falconeri’s factory in Avio, northern Italy, and the company is proud to be able to use the ‘Made in Italy’ label.

The collection includes classic pieces, designed to be worn time and again, such as sweaters and coats, alongside other items with a fashionable edge. The autumn/winter 2016/17 women’s collection includes jumpsuits and luxury joggers, while the tops and pleated skirts challenge traditional ideas about Above: a selection from Falconeri’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

knitwear. There are also 1970s-inspired pieces, referencing the resurgence of this era on the catwalks, which prove that Falconeri has its finger on the pulse. For men, the brand embraces the increasingly blurred line between formal and casualwear, using modern techniques to add sporty textures to jackets: a standout piece this season is an on-trend biker jacket in felted wool and distressed leather.

The quality and style of Falconeri’s creations mean it’s no surprise that the brand has seen rapid expansion in recent years.

Calzedonia opened five new Falconeri stores in Italy in 2009 alone and today Falconeri has 80 boutiques in four countries, with flagship

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When it comes to cashmere, Falconeri is a perfect choice stores located on Italy’s most prestigious shopping streets including Via Montenapoleone and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan (three further stores will open this year in Rome alone).

The fashion world has also taken notice of Falconeri, leading the brand’s menswear and womenswear to be featured in influential fashion magazines such as Grazia, Vanity Fair and Vogue.

As consumers are becoming more interested in beautifully made clothing which will last, fine fabrics are once again in the spotlight, and when it comes to cashmere, Falconeri is a perfect choice. Whether you’re looking for the perfect crew neck jumper or a piece of trendled knitwear, you can be sure that Falconeri’s interpretation will be well worth seeking out Above (from top): the Falconeri store on Via Montenapoleone in Milan; a piece from the brand’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

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TABLE TALK In Milan, pasta is still the dish of the day. Katie Muxworthy visits some of the city’s best restaurants for this classic fare

The Italian film director Federico Fellini once said that life is ‘a combination of magic and pasta’. Pasta is certainly embedded in Italian life and culture, and in Milan restaurants know how to create pitch-perfect dishes using this ingredient. Pasta is an everyday staple in Italy: it can be found in many wonderfully simple recipes which require very few accompaniments while also being the basis for numerous complex dishes.

Typically, pasta is freshly made using just flour and eggs, and then dried naturally or using machines. Pasta began as a type of noodle, which is more commonly recognised today as spaghetti, and has since developed into a variety of shapes and textures. Milan’s restaurants have an exciting selection, whether you order a fresh seafood tagliatelle or a perfectly flavoured ravioli dish. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: FRANCESCA BRAMBILLA

A LICE RISTORANTE This Michelin-starred eatery provides visitors with traditional Mediterranean flavours with an innovative touch. The women behind Alice Ristorante – chef Viviana Varese and maître d’ and sommelier Sandra Ciciriello – aim to serve creative dishes using the finest produce. Choose from the menu or ask the maître d’ about the special of the day.

The pasta dishes are kept simple and include spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil, and a creamy tagliatelle with asparagus and parmesan, and the meat and fish dishes are just as popular. Finish your meal with a homemade sorbet or ice cream.

Alice Ristorante, Piazza XXV Aprile 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4949 7340, aliceristorante.it

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CERESIO 7 Fashionable hotspot Ceresio 7 is curated by Dan and Dean Caten, the founders of the Dsquared2 fashion brand. As well as its cool and elegant atmosphere, the restaurant provides stunning views of Milan’s skyline. Close attention is paid to atmospheric details, with plants filling the balcony area while the interior has sleek wooden features to create a contemporary dining experience. The pasta globalblue.com

dishes are fittingly sophisticated: favourites include lobster linguine with sautéed courgettes, veal tartare ravioli with fresh lime, and a filling gnocchi with green peas, horseradish and toma cheese. Ceresio 7’s drinks are equally inspirational – choose from the extensive wine list and cocktail menu.

Ceresio 7, Via Ceresio 7, 20154 Milan, +39 02 3103 9221, ceresio7.com

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R I STOR A N T E DA GI U L I A and stracciatella cheese or with asparagus, bream and cherry tomatoes. Don’t forget to order a drink from the exclusively Italian wine list and if the weather is warm, dine al fresco in the restaurant’s garden.

Ristorante Da Giulia, Piazza Antonio Gramsci 3, 20149 Milan, +39 02 3651 2177, ristorantedagiulia.it

PHOTO: LAGARTY PHOTO/GABRIELE CANFORA

Best known for its Mediterranean flavours, Ristorante Da Giulia makes all its pasta in-house. Presentation is key for head chef Giulia Grande, with each dish looking as enticing as it tastes. Choose from either the menu of the day, the tasting menu or the à la carte selection. Typical dishes include orecchiette pasta with cubed tomatoes, rocket

For a fine-dining experience, visit Il Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala. To discover a wide range of the restaurant’s dishes, which make good use of high-quality ingredients in innovative combinations, choose the five-course tasting menu, which comprises a starter, a pasta dish, two main courses and dessert of your choice.

Highlights include roasted and smoked gnocchi with fish soup, octopus and nasturtium leaves.

The ravioli stuffed with parmesan cheese, asparagus and pork jowl, topped with a quail’s egg, is also delicious. globalblue.com

PHOTO: MARIO ZANARIA

I L R ISTOR A N T E T RUSSA R DI ALLA SCALA

Il Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala, Piazza della Scala 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8068 8201, trussardiallascala.com

PHOTO: COURTESY OF UN POSTO A MILANO

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UN POSTO A MILANO Although Un Posto a Milano is located in the centre of the city, this spacious and traditional kitchen and bar offers a glimpse of rural Italy with its farmstead aesthetic. In this renovated building high-quality food is produced using locally grown ingredients, some of which are organic and can be traced back to their origin.

The menu depends on the fresh produce globalblue.com

available, including seasonal vegetables, with everything made by hand. Typical dishes include rigatoni with sun-dried tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil and there is always a filled pasta of the day to try.

Un Posto a Milano, Via Privata Cuccagna 2, 20135 Milan, +39 02 545 7785, unpostoamilano.it

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STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: YOANN STOECKEL

The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

HÔTEL DES GALERIES Located on the corner of the 19th-century Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert in Brussels, the Hôtel des Galeries’ historic façade hides a thoroughly contemporary interior that showcases Belgian design talents. Each of the 23 uncluttered rooms and suites are furnished with an eclectic mix of modern pieces such as ceramic night tables by Camille Flammarion and wall lights from Belgian brand Zangra, mixed with antiques from shops in the city’s globalblue.com

Sablon area. The three suites are on two levels, one accessible via a private footbridge, and make a feature of the building’s original wood-beamed ceiling. The inviting Comptoir des Galeries restaurant offers simple yet intricately presented dishes with a choice that ranges from regional delicacies to more exotic flavours, such as pigs’ trotter croquettes to Iberian pork served with Liège syrup.

Hôtel des Galeries, 38 rue des Bouchers, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 213 7470, hoteldesgaleries.be

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CAFÉ ROYAL The celebrated Café Royal was one of London’s most fashionable society haunts for many years, and since 2012 has become one of the city’s loveliest hotels. The café opened in 1865, and its original features still take pride of place, alongside elegant contemporary design which complements rather than overshadows the hotel’s rich heritage. There are 160 chic rooms, including seven signature suites. These have between one and six bedrooms and are some of

the most luxurious in the city, with décor inspired by the building’s past, from the wood-panelled Tudor suite to the extravagant Dome penthouse. Akasha, Café Royal’s state-of-the-art spa and fitness space is sure to impress even the most discerning guests. Food and drink options include a dessert-only restaurant, the first of its kind in London, overseen by star pastry chef Sarah Barber.

Café Royal, 68 Regent Street, London W1B 4DY, +44 (0)20 7406 3333, hotelcaferoyal.com

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AC HOTEL NICE

PHOTO: GUENTERSTANDL.DE

The AC Hotel Nice has a well-deserved reputation for style and helpful service, and a superb location in the heart of the city. There are 143 rooms, decorated in soft neutral tones and a timeless style, which look out across the historic city, the clear blue sea or the lush greenery of the hotel’s private garden. Facilities include a comfortable, well-stocked minilibrary, a heated rooftop pool for warmer days, and a fitness room. Check out the AC Lounge, where the chef presents delicious dishes using the best local produce. For cocktails and dinner, the Rooftop Terrace Restaurant & Lounge specialises in seasonal Mediterranean cuisine and offers a striking 360-degree view across the city.

AC Hotel Nice, 59 promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice, +33 (0)4 9397 9090, achotelnice.com

WIESERGUT Surrounded by snow-covered mountains, Wiesergut is a chic retreat just an hour’s drive from Salzburg. The sleek white four-storey building is a far cry from a traditional chalet, with an imaginative design that includes floor-to-ceiling windows to blur the boundary between indoors and outdoors. The 24 suites are decorated in a neutral palette using natural globalblue.com

materials such as wood, stone, leather and linen contrasted with glass, steel and concrete. The land surrounding the hotel has been farmed by the family since 1350, so it’s not surprising that the restaurant focuses on fresh organic produce, used to create classic Austrian dishes alongside more experimental plates.

Wiesergut, Wiesern 48, 5754 Hinterglemm, +43 (0)6541 6308, wiesergut.com

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DOWN HALL For a revitalising stay just 45 minutes away from central London, and within easy reach of Stansted Airport, Down Hall is an exceptional choice. The spectacular building dates back to 1540 and is surrounded by 110 acres of gardens, woods and rolling countryside. The hotel’s 100 rooms have recently been renovated in a contemporary country-chic style with feature bedrooms offering four-poster beds and breathtaking views. Make time to visit the Eden globalblue.com

Spa, with its hydrotherapy pool, steam room and sauna, and book in for a massage using Espa products or a Jessica Nails manicure.

Round off your day with dinner at The Grill Room, where you can sample modern British cuisine: leg of guinea fowl stuffed with walnuts and tarragon, say, followed by chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream.

Down Hall, Matching Road, Hatfield Heath, Essex CM22 7AS, +44 (0)1279 731441, downhall.co.uk

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GUIDE

PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a spectacular jewellery boutique to a panettone festival. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

A Glimpse Of Milan Above: take a moment to appreciate the city’s architecture

MILANO - Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 info@cielo.it

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Gucci Creative director Alessandro Michele’s elaborate menswear designs for Gucci continue to be a big hit with tastemakers.

Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

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Un Posto a Milano Dine in rustic Italian style at this centrally located restaurant.

Un Posto a Milano, Via Privata Cuccagna 2, 20135 Milan, +39 02 545 7785, unpostoamilano.it

FORO BUO

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FEATURED ON PAGE 50

FEATURED ON PAGE 54

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE P.62

EL

CAIROLI

Laboratorio Paravicini Discover Laboratorio Paravicini’s distinctive hand-painted ceramics.

Laboratorio Paravicini, Via Nerino 8, 20123 Milan, CO +39 02 7202 1006,R S O M AG EN TA paravicini.com

ER A

PON

Piazza Castello

PIA Z Z

VIA

CASTELLO SFORZESCO

Brioni Master the art of gentlemanly dressing with Brioni’s made-to-measure service, Su Misura.

Brioni, Via Gesù 2-4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0086, brioni.com

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

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PAGE

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112 | G U I D E

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S H O P | 115

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S H O P | 117

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MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ● MARC CAIN ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Global Blue Lounge

NP

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STEFANO RICCI ● MIMÌ ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

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Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: PAOLA PANSINI

One of Italy’s most fabulous fine jewellers Pomellato has opened a new boutique, on Via Montenapoleone, which pays tribute to Milan’s distinctive and, at times, unconventional style. Similarly, Pomellato has pushed the boundaries of a traditional jeweller, with a window display comprising frequently changing moveable open shelves.

The colourful interior features amethyst velvet sofas, pink folding screens and a champagne-coloured art nouveauinspired ceiling.

Pomellato, Via Montenapoleone 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530, pomellato.com

Metro

Café

124 | G U I D E

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

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Global Blue Retailer

Piazza San Carlo

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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Featured In This Issue

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126 | G U I D E

SHOP DIARY

A ROUND–UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST–DOS RE PANETTONE Chefs from all over Italy will meet on 26 and 27 November to bake this seasonal treat, hoping to win the ‘king panettone’ crown. Visit to sample as many varieties of this sweetly spiced delicacy as you could wish. repanettone.it

NOV

FESTIVAL OF SANT’AMBROGIO The highlight of this celebration of Milan’s patron saint, Sant’Ambrogio, is the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market where locals and visitors alike can feast on a selection of seasonal food and drink from the region. milancity.com

PHOTO: ANDREA PISAPIA/SPAZIOORTI14.IT

DEC

MILAN FASHION WEEK The city’s most esteemed fashion houses, including Prada, Giorgio Armani and Gucci, showcase their highly glamorous creations for the following autumn/winter season. milanfashionweeklive.com

FEB

PHOTO: YUICHI SAKURABA CC BY-NC 2.0

ZANELLATO Luxury accessories brand Zanellato is set to attract a new set of clients following the opening of a boutique in a prime position in the city. Located on the fashionable Via Bagutta, the store stocks Zanellato’s latest range of Italian-made items, along with products created just for this store. These include a specially commissioned version of the popular Nina bag in Pura leather, which is produced using a metal-free environmentally friendly tanning process.

Zanellato, Via Bagutta 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 2316 7686, zanellato.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

Above: panettone, Milan’s traditional sweet festive loaf

128 | G U I D E

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Global Blue Retailer

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RICK OWENS MILAN VIA MONTE DI PIETA’ 13 20121 MILAN TEL + 39 02 45386030 WWW.RICKOWENS.EU

STORE@RICKOWENSMILAN.COM OPEN MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 10:30 A.M. TO 7:30 P.M. CLOSED ON SUNDAY

130 | G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

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Global Blue Retailer

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PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● BOTTA GIOIELLI ● BOGGI ● FLAMANT ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

132 | G U I D E

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

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ROSANTICA The fashion for statement jewellery shows no signs of abating, and the showstopping pieces from Milanese label Rosantica are a stylish way to embrace the trend. Designer Michela Panero set up the label following a decade in New York and a spell working with top Milanese fashion houses. Her distinctive handmade earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings are inspired by ancient Greek and Roman designs, with a modern twist.

Global Blue Retailer Metro

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8340, rosantica.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 134

Shopping Centre/Mall

Train Station

134 | G U I D E

Via Solferino & Via Brera

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Featured In This Issue

VIA DEL LAU

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.132

Global Blue Retailer

VIA DELL’ORSO

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BOFFI SOLFERINO ● FALIERO SARTI ● ST. BARTH ● AMINA RUBINACCI ● LIBERO MILANO ● OLLY ● SONIA DE NISCO ● THE STORE ●

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NO 21 To showcase its modern approach to Italian style, which is driven by its creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua, No 21 has opened a flagship store in Milan. Rooms one and two are home to the latest men’s and women’s clothing while the third room is dedicated to the brand’s accessories. The autumn/winter 2016/17 womenswear collection deftly combines traditionally glamorous silhouettes with casual, almost androgynous detailing.

No 21, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 781957, numeroventuno.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

LE SILLA A favourite with some of the world’s most fashionable people, Le Silla’s footwear has been seen on countless red carpets. Enio Silla and Monica Ciabattini create glamorous, on-trend shoes which are difficult to resist. This season’s chic and gothic collection features the studded and buckled Borgia sandal, the elaborate lace-up over-the-knee Gossip boot and the elegant Isabel pump in midnight blue velvet.

Le Silla, Via Sant’Andrea 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 1335, lesilla.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) HILLMAN54 CC BY 2.0

DID YOU KNOW?

globalblue.com

Milan’s fantastic art museum Museo del Novecento is located next to the cathedral.

Stop by to admire an impressive collection of 20th century works, including pieces by Picasso, Klee and Modigliani.

Museo del Novecento, Via Marconi 1, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8844 4061, museodelnovecento.org FEATURED ON PAGE 111

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ILARIA NISTRI Italian designer Ilaria Nistri received a degree in law and worked for her family’s fabric business before embarking on her own fashion career. Nistri’s first collection was shown in Paris in 2006 and her designs were quickly snapped up by some of the world’s most respected boutiques, including Isetan in Tokyo and Leclaireur in Paris. This season the designer has explored reflection and mirrors.

Unorthodox fabric combinations create a striking contrast of softness and rigidity and architectural prints by artist Aitor Ortiz give the pieces a very modern appeal.

Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 6494, ilarianistri.com Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Featured In This Issue

140 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP FIDENZA VILLAGE With over 90 top brands, all with year-round discounts of up to 70%, as well as restaurants and cafés, Fidenza Village is a stylish day out.

Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

A PERFECT DAY

MILANO CENTRALE STATION E35

A1

Fidenza Village

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car

By Train

Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore.

Pass the tollbooth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres to your left.

By Shopping Express The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Milan to Fidenza Village daily.

Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of approximately one hour 15 minutes. Upon arrival, take the shuttle bus to Fidenza Village; tickets can be purchased on board.

DON’T MISS …

Shopping & Food experience: This exclusive package includes: A guided tour to discover the most prestigious local products, such as Parmigiano Reggiano cheese Return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping Express® A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

• • •

Outlet Village

Train Station

Shopping & Art experience: This exclusive package includes: Entrance to the Galleria Nazionale di Parma with its collection of Italian Renaissance masterpieces Return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping Express® A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

• • •

10am The perfect way to start your shopping day is with an Illy espresso. This is the quintessential coffee preparation – rich, aromatic and velvety.

12pm Visit the Missoni boutique to discover colourful, fine knits that are a versatile winter staple.

2pm For a taste of typical Italian cuisine, head to Hosteria delle Terre Verdiane where you will discover food that is rich in history as well as taste – and find the perfect treat to take home with you.

4pm End your day admiring the innovative collections at Massimo Rebecchi. This luxurious label is well known for combining the sleekest Italian tailoring with wearable comfort.

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

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Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

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Spend over €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Offices Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (afer security control), frst floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Downtown Como: Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 70: Ready To Wear

Без Галстука

На модных показах концептуальные разработки дизайнеров выглядят привычно: сложные вещи производят впечатление на подиуме, но едва ли с легкостью впишутся в реальный гардероб. Поэтому модные эксперты не могли оставить без внимания такое количество удобной и созданной для ношения одежды, которая появилась на самом крупном модном событии сезона осень-зима 2016/17 – Milano Moda Uomo. Влиятельные дизайнеры представили новые мужские коллекции, в которых передовые дизайнерские идеи оказались смягчены понятными формами, текстурами и кроем таким образом, чтобы мужчина мог носить эти вещи в любой день. Акцентом новой коллекции Gucci стали замысловатые модели насыщенных цветов, характерные для стиля Алессандро Микеле. Но наряду с парчовыми костюмами и шелковыми пижамами появились и более очевидные вещи. Свободный крой брюк со стрелкой, представленных в оттенках темно-зеленого и индиго, призван создать атмосферу непринужденности и уюта. Вязаные вещи, основа любого зимнего гардероба, получились многослойными: свитера с высоким горлом «поло» в духе Энди Уорхола можно надевать под свободные джемперы с широким воротом и укороченными рукавами. Более отважным мужчинам предложены кардиганы розового цвета, в духе любимого оттенка Эльзы Скиапарелли, а также принты в виде плюшевых мишек и меховая отделка воротников. Следом globalblue.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Бет Дрюс рассказывает о главном сюрпризе сезона от ведущих модных дизайнеров: прямо на подиумах они представили практичную мужскую одежду, которая отлично впишется в ваш гардероб

появились однобортные блейзеры чистых контрастирующих оттенков: они легкие и свободные, и их можно носить расстегнутыми, как это и делает сам Микеле, – с улыбкой и непринужденно. «В Милане умеренность витала в воздухе», – написал Чарли Портер в своем обзоре мужских коллекций для Financial Times, отмечая, что дизайнеры стремятся «привлечь внимание» покупателей со всего мира. И хотя многие коллекции остались манифестом стиля, отдельные вещи на Milano Moda Uomo были обращены напрямую покупателям. Модный дом Prada предпочитает вести сложный модный диалог, оттого было еще интереснее увидеть, как дизайнер Миучча Прада оформит свое высказывание в практичные вещи. Морской синий цвет стал сквозной темой сезона, и куртки в матросском стиле заняли центральное место в коллекции. Они украшены мотивами наполеоновской эпохи и доступны в самых

146

разных вариациях: с большими пуговицами и расстегнутыми воротничками, длинные и короткие, одно- и двубортные. Одни сшиты из светло-коричневого тонкого хлопка, другие – из синей или черной шерсти. Блейзеры и пальто выполнены в шотландской клетке и доступны в серокоричневых оттенках, причем самые смелые модели украшены широкими лацканами, которые обнажают ярко окрашенную подкладку из меха. В новой коллекции Bottega Veneta Томас Майер продемонстрировал продуманную восприимчивость к потребностям горожан, и это должно привлечь их в бутики марки. Традиционный стиль Bottega Veneta проявился в активном использовании кашемира и удлиненных элегантных силуэтах и усилился через знаковую цветовую гамму с оттенками подсушенного винограда пино-нуар и характерного для Ива Кляйна синего. Плотные пальто оторочены мехом, а для подкладки использован желтый и черный твил. Плечи джемперов и отвороты пальто усилены вставками с шотландской клеткой. Майер искусно подходит к созданию качественной одежды: он делают ее актуальной ровно настолько, чтобы заинтриговать, но не отпугнуть покупателей. Для Versace будущее предстает насыщенным: Донателла Версаче обратилась к классическим вещам бренда и наделила их сочным пурпурным оттенком. Пальто с отделкой в спортивном стиле, кардиганы из ангоры, строгие узкие костюмы и плотные пальто свободного фасона – все это получило сиреневое переосмысление. Вряд ли от этого их станет проще носить вместе, но по отдельности каждая вещь однозначно будет уместной в любом гардеробе и прекрасно сочетаться с другими предметами. «Кому больше не удается создавать такую одежду, чтобы хотелось добиваться ее и хранить», – говорит Тим Бланкс в Business of Fashion о новой коллекции Emporio Armani. Широкие брюки свободного кроя снова на сцене (скорее всего, они станут брюками сезона), на этот раз они globalblue.com

выполнены из мягкой шерсти, кожи и даже денима. Как и всегда в коллекциях Emporio Armani, в центре внимания – текстуры, будь то костюмы из букле и твила, блейзеры без воротничков из серой саржи или лаконичные свитеры, поверх которых можно носить пиджаки – это сочетание стремительно входит в повестку дня. Прежде, когда мужские коллекции еще не завоевали прочных позиций в графике модных показов, мужская одежда рассматривалась с точки зрения изысканности отдельных элементов. Потом индустрия начала расти, границы раздвигались, но происходящее на подиумах не всегда было легко переносить в повседневную реальную жизнь. Именно поэтому коллекции осень-зима 2016/17 с их готовой (в буквальном смысле) одеждой могут оказаться как раз тем, что так нужно любому мужчине.

78: Inside Story

Взгляд Изнутри Граница между модой и интерьерным дизайном становится все менее различимой и лучше всего это можно заметить, посетив Италию, – говорит Доминик Фенн. Ваш дом – ваша крепость и ваше убежище. По интерьеру жилища сегодня можно многое сказать об индивидуальном стиле хозяина. Социальные сети, такие как Instagram и Pinterest, позволяют получить представление о самых фешенебельных интерьерах домов и квартир в разных уголках планеты, вдохновляя нас на эксперименты у себя дома. Многие сезонные тенденции в интерьере берут свое начало в индустрии моды. Но если модные тренды практически мгновенно переносятся с роскошных подиумов в магазинные витрины, то с интерьером дела обстоят слегка иначе. Все процессы здесь тянутся в разы медленнее, поскольку производство требует значительно больше времени. Так, новая линия продукции может появиться на полках лишь спустя примерно пять лет после презентации.

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В последнее время все больше домов моды включают в свои коллекции предметы интерьера, что приводит к синергизму различных оттенков, тканей и материалов. В свою очередь дизайнерские бренды также не спускают глаз с модельеров, пытаясь придать своим изделиям актуальный внешний вид. Взять, к примеру, яркие коллаборации Raf Simons и текстильной марки Kvadrat или сотрудничество Ikea с европейскими дизайнерами, включая Кэти Ири и Вальтера ван Байрендонк. Помимо лидерства в сфере роскошной моды, Италия также занимается проведением крупнейшей в мире ярмарки интерьера – Salone del Mobile. Ежегодно выставка насчитывает 1300 участников и более 300 000 посетителей, что лишний раз свидетельствует о неразрывной связи Италии с индустрией дизайна. Каждый год бренд Marni выпускает лимитированную коллекцию мебели, приуроченную к проведению ярмарки. В 2016 году в коллекции были представлены стулья, ажурные столики, лампы и вазы из стали и дерева. Изделия были украшены разноцветной бахромой, которая создавалась колумбийскими женщинами в рамках программы региональной и социальной поддержки. Неудивительно, что такие вещи раскупаются за считаные секунды.

Gucci – прекрасный пример итальянского дома моды, неравнодушного к предметам интерьера. На сегодняшний день компании принадлежит знаменитый фарфоровый бренд Richard Ginori. Это предприятие было основано в 1735 году дворянином Карло Гинори, нашедшим в Тоскане белую глину каолин, которая используется при производстве керамики. Изделия Richard Ginori приобрели известность благодаря своему непревзойденному качеству. Раскрашенный вручную фарфор Richard Ginori можно встретить во многих роскошных отелях и даже в Ватикане. Креативный директор Gucci Алессандро Микеле, подаривший модному дому новое романтическое видение, также globalblue.com

является главным дизайнером Richard Ginori. Сохраняя почтенное отношение к истории компании, он выбрал несколько архивных изделий и переосмыслил их в современном ключе. Микеле превосходно удается рассказывать истории с помощью дизайна, а также комбинировать различные принты и формы, перенося их на текстиль Gucci и фарфор Richard Ginori. В основу новой коллекции фарфоровых ваз Микеле положил знаменитые фигуры Richard Ginori в виде льва, волка и старца, адаптировав их также для ремней и аксессуаров из курортной коллекции Gucci 2016. Возвращение роскоши в коллекции одежды и предметов интерьера горячо приветствуется в Versace, где были запущены четыре новые линии домашнего интерьера. Поклонников ждут принты леопарда и зебры, а также элементы морской тематики в пастельных тонах. Характерный пестрый зигзаг Missoni по традиции можно будет встретить в ярких коллекциях подушек, ковриков, постельного белья и посуды.

PHOTO: MAX ZAMBELLI

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Марка Dedar, специализирующаяся на домашнем текстиле, известна своими смелыми экспериментами с изящными тканями. Компания была основана в 1976 году в северной Италии неподалеку от Комо – в регионе, где столетиями производили шелковые ткани. Своей главной задачей бренд видит создание красивого и элегантного текстиля, который смог бы размыть границу между искусством, модой и дизайном. Последняя коллекция Dedar, ставшая кульминацией исследовательской работы компании, представлена целым рядом привычных для модной индустрии тканей, таких как молескин, бурет и твил, которые были специально адаптированы для домашнего интерьера. Едва ли кто-то меняет свой интерьер так же часто, как гардероб, и все же новейшие направления в мире дизайна в сочетании с постоянно растущим ассортиментом гарантируют, что ваш дом будет выглядеть не менее стильно, чем вы сами.

86: The Right Touch

Последний Штрих От классических свитеров до стильных комбинезонов: кашемировый бренд Falconeri выпускает элегантную одежду для globalblue.com

современных покупателей, – рассказывает Ханна Льюис Когда речь заходит о зимней одежде, что может быть приятнее согревающего и мягкого кашемира? Эта шерсть, сделанная из пуха кашемировых горных коз, намного мягче и легче овечьей шерсти и в то же время теплее, поэтому кашемир на протяжении многих столетий пользовался успехом у взыскательных покупателей. Тысячи лет эта роскошная шерсть согревала людей в самых разных уголках Земли, включая Азию, но лишь в 1400-х годах про ее существование узнали на остальных континентах. Из-за сложного и трудоемкого процесса производства этого вида шерсти, кашемир до недавнего времени оставался прерогативой лишь состоятельной части населения, однако благодаря таким брендам, как Falconeri стильная одежда из этой превосходной ткани стала доступна практически каждому. Компания Falconeri, основанная в 1999 году, быстра завоевала популярность благодаря ответственному подходу к качеству выпускаемой продукции. Спустя десять лет бренд перешел под управление стремительно развивающейся итальянской компании Calzedonia, которая сделала

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все возможное, чтобы традиционные ценности Falconeri не только не исчезли, но и прекрасно сочетались с современными тенденциями моды. Главное внимание Falconeri попрежнему уделяет качеству изделий, постоянно совершенствуя технологии производства. Ткани, использующиеся в производстве, создаются из первоклассной пряжи с использованием традиционных методов. Все стадии производства, начиная от эскизов и заканчивая созданием изделия и упаковки, происходят на фабрике Falconeri в городе Авио на севере Италии, что позволяет компании с гордостью использовать этикетку «Сделано в Италии». Коллекции бренда включают ряд классических вещей, таких как свитера и пальто, которые можно носить из года в год, а также несколько нарядов, отражающих актуальные тенденции в моде. Женская коллекция осень-зима 2016/17 включает комбинезоны и роскошные спортивные штаны, топы и плиссированные юбки, бросающие вызов традиционным представлениям о трикотаже. Не обошлась коллекция и без тренда сезона – эпохи 1970-х, а значит Falconeri внимательно следит за актуальными тенденциями. В мужской линии границы между строгой и повседневной одеждой практически сошли на нет: многие модели пиджаков приобрели характерные черты спортивной одежды. В этом сезоне больше всего нам понравились байкерские куртки из войлока и состаренной кожи. Превосходное качество и непревзойденный стиль коллекций Falconeri стали залогом успешной экспансии бренда в течение последних нескольких лет. В 2009 году Calzedonia открыла пять новых магазинов Falconeri, и сегодня бренд насчитывает 80 бутиков в четырех странах, а также флагманские магазины, расположенные на самых престижных улицах итальянских городов, включая Via Montenapoleone и Corso Vittorio Emanuele II в Милане (еще три магазина откроются в этом году в Риме). Мир моды не оставил без внимания

мужские и женские коллекции Falconeri, внимание которым уделили такие популярные модные издания, как Grazia, Vanity Fair и Vogue. Покупателей все больше привлекает красивая и прочная одежда из элегантных тканей, поэтому, когда речь заходит о кашемире, Falconeri кажется очевидным выбором. Независимо от того, что вы ищете, свитер или стильную трикотажную вещицу, коллекции Falconeri, безусловно, заслуживают пристального внимания.

142: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте свыше €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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美文翻译 70: Ready To Wear 大牌时装亲民风 本季，一众顶尖设计师出其不意地一反常态，纷纷推 出风格“亲民”的时装亮相各大秀场。很多佳作值得 纳入您的衣橱，Beth Druce带您一探究竟 我们似乎已经见惯了概念性的设计师作品：那些稀 奇古怪的服装虽然在秀场上大放异彩，却难有机会 在日常生活中穿着。所以，当2016/17秋冬季的大型 时装活动中接连出现可供平日穿着的时装，业内人 士不禁刮目相看。在荟萃顶级设计师的米兰男装周 上，前卫的概念性设计被日常的造型、质感和剪裁所 取代，让街头老百姓也触手可及。 在古驰（Gucci）秀场，Alessandro Michele 浓郁的华丽设计仍随处可见，但除织锦西装和丝绸 睡衣外，品牌还展示了很多款亲民时装。墨绿和靛 蓝的前褶长裤采用宽松的剪裁以增添休闲惬意之 感，时尚冬季衣橱的主角——针织衫则运用了别 致的安迪·沃霍尔式圆高翻领，外搭一件宽领短袖 宽松针织套衫。具有冒险精神的男士不妨选择长款 Schiaparelli粉色开襟羊毛衫，或是印有泰迪熊的毛 领衫。别忘了撞色单排扣轻便上衣，这款剪裁宽松 的轻盈上衣最适合像Michele本人那样穿着，尽显 潇洒和随性。 “米兰刮起了一股平民风，”Charlie Porter在 《金融时报》的男装总结点评中指出，设计师希望“ 吸引”来自世界各地的消费者。虽然米兰男装周上许 多时装系列具有非常明确的标志性主题，但仍有不 少单品直接瞄准了普通消费者。 普拉达（Prada）一直以来倾向于传达复杂的 时尚理念，因此设计师Miuccia Prada今年以平易 近人的作品表达她个人创意的举动十分耐人寻味。 本季主题鲜明，上演海军风，主打水手夹克。夹克极 富拿破仑时代特色，大纽扣，大开领，长款，短款， 单排，双排扣；采用了浅褐色轻质棉或海蓝、黑色羊 毛。以及格子花呢的应用，棕灰西装外套和大衣，引 人注目的宽边翻领，内露色彩鲜艳的毛皮衬里。 Tomas Maier为葆蝶家（Bottega Veneta）的 最新系列特别注入了都市气息，以吸引消费者竞相 前往精品店一睹真容。开司米面料的大量运用和优 雅修长的剪裁充分诠释了Bottega Veneta一贯的奢 华理念，伊夫·克莱因蓝（Yves Klein blue）和陈年 黑皮诺紫（pinot noir）组成的传统配色尽显奢华风 范。厚重的大衣以皮毛为点缀，内衬黄黑斜纹，针织 套衫的肩部和大衣的翻领上都缀有格子补丁。这就 是Maier的聪明之举：将一丝丝的前卫元素巧妙融 入高级时装设计中，既引人注目又不至于高高在上。 globalblue.com

在Donatella Versace的带领下，范思哲 （Versace）的前途一片光明。她为经典款式赋予灵 动的紫色，在粗呢大衣、安哥拉开襟羊毛衫、剪裁得 体的西装和厚重宽松的外套上都可以寻觅到淡紫的 踪影。尽管整套服装难以驾御，但每一件单品却能够 和衣柜中的其他服装轻松搭配，值得入手。 “没有哪个品牌的服装能如此既独特个性 又平易近人，”Tim Blanks在“时装商业评论” （Business of Fashion）上如此评价Emporio Armani的时装系列。这个系列一定会让您心动不 已。宽松的长裤再次登台亮相（这可能成为当季最 热门款式），这次则采用柔软的羊毛、皮革甚至牛仔 布。Emporio Armani的其他设计则在面料质地上 下足了功夫，珠毛呢和斜纹布西装，灰色人字斜纹无 领轻便上衣以及搭配西装的简约针织衫正在迅速成 为日常爆款。 数年前，当男装系列还未在时装舞台上占据举 足轻重的地位之时，男装往往以细节决定成败。随 着产业的发展，人们不断打破常规，使得T台上的 时装与日常着装相去甚远。2016/17秋冬季以丰富 的成衣选择以及更加亲民的风格，让每一位男士喜 闻乐见。

78: Inside Story 别有洞天 时尚业与室内设计业日益交错难分，在这方面意大 利独领风骚，Dominique Fenn为您详解 家就像一座城堡，更是您的庇护所。如今，家亦能成 为个人风格的延伸。借由Instagram、Pinterest等社 交站点，世界上最新潮的房舍厅堂就在眼前，启发我 们给自己的生活空间改头换面。 时尚圈一有风吹草动，家居设计师的灵感便喷 薄而出，每一季都韵味十足。虽然T台风尚会迅速流 入商店，室内设计品却总是更新得慢一些，毕竟其生 产流程需要更长时间。潮流趋势往往要推后五年， 才能从秀场走进家具橱窗。 但如今，许多服装品牌正将新品引入家居界， 两个领域产品的配色、面料和原材料愈发相得益 彰。室内装修公司也将目光投向服装设计师，使 自家的产品愈发时尚：男装品牌拉夫·西蒙（Raf Simons）与纺织品公司Kvadrat的高调合作便是一 例，而在繁华的商业街上，宜家（Ikea）更是与Katie Eary、Walter van Beirendonck等众多欧洲设计师 联袂亮相。 意大利不仅引领着奢华风尚，还承办全球最 大的室内设计展会——米兰家具展（Salone del Mobile）。1300名参展商和30万余名访客，便是意 大利与绝妙设计水乳交融的证明。

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广为人知的服装品牌Missoni，也将这些充满活力的 印花用到了自家的靠垫、地毯、被单和餐具当中。 专擅室内纺品的品牌Dedar不仅因手工艺闻名 遐迩，更以其对优质面料的不懈探索而为人称道。 该品牌创立于1976年，坐落于意大利北部的科摩 （Como）附近。几个世纪以来，此地盛产丝绸等面 料。这家公司志在打造优美而精致的纺品，让艺术、 时尚与设计的界限变得模糊。该品牌的最新系列可 谓集大成者，将品牌对纺织品的勉力钻研展露无遗； 时尚圈最常用的鼹鼠皮、布拉特绸和斜纹布等面料 皆被Dedar 精心改造，用进了室内设计中。 家装的更换或许不及衣装那般频繁，但设计界 的新动向和层出不穷的新选择，却意味着极大的 便利——让您的家像您本人一样时髦，从未如此 轻松。

86: The Right Touch 恰似这份温柔 每年的米兰家具展上，时尚品牌玛尼（Marni） 都会推出一个限量版家具系列。2016年的展品包括 金属及木质的椅子、小桌、台灯和花瓶，色彩明丽的 PVC线绳装饰其上，由哥伦比亚社区扶持项目的姊 妹亲手织成。如此杰作，当然很快便一售而空。 说到全心做家居的意大利时尚公司，古驰 （Gucci）便是完美的例子，历史悠久的瓷器品牌 Richard Ginori今已被其收入麾下。1735年，贵族 卡罗·基诺里（Carlo Ginori）到意大利托斯卡纳 （Tuscany）区寻找瓷土时，在佛罗伦萨创立了这一 品牌。当地瓷土中含有一种矿物质，对烧制瓷器极 为重要。Richard Ginori制造的瓷制餐具因完美无 暇的品质而倍受褒扬，在各大豪华酒店，甚至在梵蒂 冈，皆可欣赏到Richard Ginori的手绘设计。 古驰的创意总监Alessandro Michele令人称道 之处，便是令古驰的灿烂底蕴同他的浪漫想像珠联 璧合。如今，Richard Ginori的创意部门亦由他掌 舵。为了向该品牌的悠久历史致敬，他精选了一批典 藏佳作，将它们重新展现在当今顾客眼前。古驰的纺 品与Richard Ginori的瓷器无不流露出Michele的 叙事功力——有了自己的设计，加上印花与图形的 组合搭配技巧，好的故事自然水到渠成。Michele还 把Richard Ginori一款由“狮子、狼与长胡须的男 人”构成的设计加以改编，将这三个形象的头部运用 在不同尺寸的瓷花瓶上，并复制到古驰2016度假系 列的腰带和各类配饰上。 重回奢华路线的范思哲（Versace）引进了四条 全新的家居产品线，在家居行业内和时装秀场上都 大放异彩。豹纹与斑马印花自不会少，其他主题也颇 值得期待，例如淡色作品上随处可见的海洋风格图 案。与此同时，凭借极具辨识度的“之”字形图案而 globalblue.com

无论是经典套衫还是新潮连裤衫，开司米专家 Falconeri为当代的顾客缔造完美服饰，Hannah Lewis报道 冬季衣着中开司米带给肌肤的柔软触感最是妙不可 言。开司米取自于克什米尔细毛山羊身上的羊绒，这 种轻盈而保暖的面料比绵羊毛更加柔软、更加细腻， 数百年来深受高品味消费者的青睐。 这种奢侈的面料其实早在数千年前就风靡亚洲 等地区，只不过到十五世纪才渐渐在其他各洲流传 开来。由于制造过程复杂且耗时，几个世纪以来开司 米都被视为奢侈品。如今，有了Falconeri等专注于 打造山羊绒时装的品牌，越来越多的顾客可以享受 到这种优质的面料。 Falconeri创立于1999年，因其对品质的执着追 求而备受赞誉。十年之后，Falconeri被意大利蓬勃 发展的时装公司Calzedonia纳入旗下，确保其紧跟 设计潮流的同时保留了品牌的传统价值。 Falconeri仍然将品质视为重中之重，不断挖掘 和探索最好的工艺和生产流程。所有服装均采用传 统的编织方式，由上等天然纱线打造而成。从草图设 计到每件成衣的制作再到后期包装，每一步都是在 意大利北部小镇Avio的Falconeri工厂完成，公司也 深为“意大利制造”的血统感到自豪。 Falconeri 的系列服装既有毛衣和大衣等经久 不衰的经典款式，也有更富时尚元素的其他设计类 型。2016/17秋冬女装系列包含连裤衫和奢华运动 裤，多款上衣和褶裙更是挑战了人们对针织品的传 统认知。系列中还有许多借鉴了上世纪七十年代服 装的设计，这便是Falconeri紧扣时尚脉搏的例证。 品牌男装亦顺应潮流，模糊正装和休闲装的界线，

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使用现代工艺为夹克衫添加运动元素。若问本季最 闪耀的单品，首推羊毛毡和仿旧皮革制成的时尚机 车夹克。 凭借其优良品质和出众风格，Falconeri 近年来的迅猛扩张实是不足为奇。单在2009 年，Calzedonia就在意大利开设了五家全新 Falconeri品牌店。如今，Falconeri已在四个 国家拥有80家精品店，蒙提拿破仑街（Via Montenapoleone）和维托里奥·埃马努埃莱二世大 街（Corso Vittorio Emanuele Ii）等意大利最负盛 名的购物大街上都坐落着品牌的旗舰店（今年还将 有三家新店登陆罗马）。 时装界也开始注意到Falconeri，品牌旗下的男 装和女装频频亮相于Grazia、Vanity Fair和Vogue 等知名时尚杂志。 随着顾客越来越讲究做工精美的服装是否经 久耐穿，优质面料再次成为人们关注的焦点，而 Falconeri则是开司米服饰的不二之选。无论您在物 色水手领套衫还是独领风骚的针织衫，Falconeri的 作品一定不会让您失望。

142: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue) 服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form)。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 消费超过€154.94即可节省高达购买价格15.5%的 金额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要 扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单 位收取现金退税手续费。 globalblue.com

日本語翻訳

70: Ready To Wear キャットウォークから街中へ 今シーズンのファッション界は驚きが一杯。有名デザ イナーたちが、瞬く間にワードローブの主役になりそ うな手頃なアイテムをキャットウォークで披露してい るのだ。ベス・ドゥルースがレポートする。 昨今は、デザイナーコレクションでコンセプチュアル な作品を見ることにも慣れてきた。キャットウォーク でのインパクトは抜群ながら、着るとなるとちょっと 微妙で日々の装いに取り入れにくい類の服だ。とこ ろが、2016/17年秋冬ファッションのメーンイベント ではウェアラブルなファッションが続々登場し、業 界通の注目を集めている。影響力絶大のデザイナー がメンズウェアコレクションを発表する場であるミラ ノ・モーダ・ウオーモでも、普通の男性が気軽に着ら れるような形や素材、テイラーリングが見られ、先端 的コンセプトの打ち出し方は控えめだった。 グッチのショーでは、アレッサンドロ・ミケーレ の強烈で華麗なデザインは健在ながら、ブロケード のスーツやシルクのパジャマに交じって比較的取っつ きやすい服も披露された。濃緑や藍色のくだけた感 じのプリーツフロントパンツは、緩やかなカットがカ ジュアルで肌馴染みの良さそうなシルエットを作って いる。お洒落な冬のワードローブのキーアイテムとな るニットウェアは、アンディ・ウォーホールを思わせる シックなポロネックに、襟ぐりが大きく開いた七分袖 の柔らかなニットジャンパーを重ねた。冒険心が旺 盛な向きにはスキャパレリ風ショッキングピンクのお 爺ちゃん風カーディガン。その他、テディベアをテー マにしたものや襟をファーでトリミングしたものなど もある。極めつけはブロックカラーのシングルブレス トブレザー。軽やかでソフトなテーラリングのこのブ レザーは、ミケーレ自身のように前を開けてゆったり と、笑顔でさりげなく着こなすアイテムだ。 「ミラノには謙虚さがあった」と、チャーリー・ポ ーターはフィナンシャルタイムズ紙のメンズウェア総 覧で書いている。デザイナーたちが世界各地の顧客 を「取り込もうと」しているというのだ。ミラノ・モー ダ・ウオーモではステートメント性の高いテーマのコ レクションが多かったのは事実だが、個々の作品は 消費者に直にアピールするものだった。 プラダは複雑なファッションメッセージをコアに 据えるのが常だが、今回はデザイナーのミウッチヤ・ プラダが着やすそうな作品で「語りかけて」いたの が興味深い。今シーズンに共通するテーマはネイビ ーで、セイラージャケットがあちこちで見られた。ちょ

PHOTO: ANDREA FERRARI

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っとナポレオン風のスタイルで、大ぶりのボタン、開 襟、丈の長いものや短いもの、シングルブレスト、ダ ブルブレストとバラエティ豊富だ。色味も薄茶の軽量 コットンもあれば、ネイビーやブラックのウールもあ った。タータン柄も、茶味がかったグレーのブレザ ーやコートなどが登場したが、一番目を引いたのは 前を開くと鮮やかな色の起毛裏地がのぞく幅広ラペ ルのコートだ。 一方、ボッテガ・ヴェネタではトーマス・マイヤー が最新コレクションによく考えられた都会のセンスを 注入している。ボッテガ・ヴェネタの真骨頂である贅 沢感は、ふんだんに使われたカシミアやエレガント ですらりとしたシルエット、イヴ・クラインブルーや成 熟したピノ・ノワールのワインレッドなど伝統的な色 味でうまく表現している。重量感のあるコートにはフ ァーのトリミングと黄黒トゥイルの裏地。ジャンパー の肩やコートのラペルにタータンチェックを使ったも のもある。マイヤーのアプローチは実に賢い。贅沢感 あふれる装いに計算し尽くした度合いの先端性を吹 き込んで興味を刺激しつつ、敬遠させることは決して ない。 ヴェルサーチも明色の未来を描き、ドナテッラ・ ヴェルサーチが飽きの来ない古典的なアイテムを鮮 やかな紫色で見せた。ダッフル風デザインのコートや アンゴラのカーディガン、ぴったりとしたテーラードス ーツ、重量感ある柔らかなシルエットのコートが全て ライラック色で登場。これらを全部いちどきにまとう のは難しそうだが、一つ一つは十分着れるし、手持 ちのアイテムにも合わせられる。

エンポリオ・アルマーニのコレクションを「手を 伸ばして触ってみたい服を作らせたら右に出るもの はない」と評したのは、 『ビジネス・オブ・ファッショ ン』のティム・ブランクスだが、今回のコレクションが まさにそれだった。柔らかく型式ばらないパンツが 再登場（今シーズン一番の注目アイテムになりそう だ）したが、今シーズンの素材はソフトウール、レザ ー、さらにはデニムもあった。エンポリオ・アルマーニ で他に目を引いた特徴は風合いで、ブークレやトゥイ ルのスーツから、トーナルグレーのヘリンボーン地を 使った襟なしブレザー、スーツの下に着られるシンプ ルですっきりしたニットウェアなどが、早くも旬の装い になりつつある。 かつて、メンズウェアコレクションがファッショ ン界でこれほど高い地位を占めるようになる前は、さ りげないディテールが勝負だった。その後メンズ産 業は成長し、境界を押し広げてきたが、キャットウォ ーク上の装いを日常生活に取り入れるのは簡単では なかった。文字通りそのまま着られる素晴らしい作 品が登場した2016/17年秋冬シーズンは、誰もが待 ち望んだ時の到来と言えるかもしれない。

78: Inside Story インサイドストーリー 関係を深めるファッションとインテリアデザインの世 界。その先端を行くイタリアをドミニク・フェンがレ ポートする。 自分の城であり、安息の場でもある自宅。最近では パーソナルスタイルの延長線にもなっている。インス タグラムやピンタレストといったソーシャルメディアサ イトでは、世界でもとびきりスタイリッシュな家やア パートメントを見ることができ、自分が住むスペース も今風にアップデートしたくなる。 各シーズンのホームインテリアスタイルは、ファ ッション界の動向に影響されることが多い。ファッ ションのトレンドはキャットウォークに顕れてからほ どなく店頭に並ぶが、インテリアアイテムの変化はそ れよりペースが遅いのが通常だ。それは生産にかか る時間が長いから。ランウェイでお目見えしてから 家具のショールームに並ぶまでに5年ほどかかるこ とも少なくない。 それが今、洋服のレーベルがインテリア製品を 導入するようになりカラーパレット、ファブリック、素 材などのシナジーが見られ、インテリア会社が服飾 デザイナーを起用して自社製品のファッショナブル 化を図るようになっている。例えば、注目を集めるラ フ・シモンズとクヴァドラのコラボレーション。また、 大衆向けインテリアでは、イケアがケイティ・イアリ

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ーやウォルター・ヴァン・ベイレンドンクなどのヨー ロピアンデザイナーと一連のパートナーシップを立 ち上げている。 イタリアは高級ファッションで世界をリードす るだけでなく、世界最大のインテリアデザインフェ ア、 「ミラノサローネ・デル・モービレ（ミラノサロー ネ）」の開催国でもある。出展企業1300 社、来場者 30万人以上というこの国際家具見本市は、イタリア と優れたデザインの強い関係の証だ。マルニは毎年 このイベントで、限定版の家具コレクションを発表し ている。2016 年は、金属や木材の枠に色鮮やかな PVCコードを手で編み込んだ椅子や小テーブル、ラ ンプ、花瓶を披露。同社のコミュニティサポートプロ ジェクトの一環で、コロンビアの女性が作ったもの だ。こうした限定版の作品が瞬く間に売れるのも不 思議はない。 イタリアのファッション企業がインテリア・ホー ム製品の世界に進出した好例がグッチで、今では歴 史ある磁器メーカーのリチャードジノリを傘下に置 く。リチャードジノリは、磁器づくりに欠かせない粘 土鉱物カオリンをトスカーナで探し出したカルロ・ ジノリ侯爵が1735年にフィレンツェで創業した企業 で、その磁器は優れた品質で知られるようになり、 リチャードジノリの手描きデザインは高級ホテルや バチカンにも見られる。 グッチのクリエイティブディレクター、アレッサ ンドロ・ミケーレは同ブランドの伝統と自身のロマン チックなビジョンを合体させたことで名高いが、その ミケーレが今、リチャードジノリのクリエイティブ部 門でも敏腕を振るう。同社の歴史の重みを大切にす るミケーレは、昔のデザインを選りすぐって新たに解 釈し、現代のクライアントに提供している。デザイン を通じてストーリーを語り、様々な柄と形を組み合 わせる彼の技量が、グッチのテキスタイルとリチャー ドジノリの磁器の両方に見て取れる。ミケーレの翻 案の一つがリチャードジノリの「ライオン」、 「オオカ ミ」、 「髭面の男」のデザインで、彼はこれらの頭の 像を様々なサイズの花瓶にあしらい、グッチの2016 年リゾートコレクションのベルトバックルやアクセサ リーにも使っている。 キャットウォークでもホームインテリアでも贅 沢感の復活が見られることはヴェルサーチも望む ところで、同ブランドでは新たなホームウェアライン を4つ打ち出している。ヒョウ柄やゼブラ柄はもちろ ん、その他にもパステルカラーのアイテムに海を思わ せるモチーフなどがある。一方、ジグザグ模様の服 がトレードマークのミッソーニでは、同じ鮮やかなプ リントをクッションやラグ、ベッドリネン、食器に使っ ている。 インテリア用テキスタイルの専門メーカー、デダ globalblue.com

ールは職人の腕と高級ファブリック追求へのこだわ りで知られる。1976 年創業の同社の本拠は北イタ リアのコモ近郊。シルクなどのファブリックを数世 紀にわたって産出してきた地域だ。デダールは、アー ト、ファッション、デザインの境を超えた美しく洗練 されたテキスタイルの創造を目指す。最新コレクショ ンはテキスタイルに関するあくなきリサーチの賜物 で、モールスキン、ブーレットシルク、トゥイルなどフ ァッション産業で多用されるファブリックをインテリ アに採用している。 自宅のインテリアは洋服ほど頻繁には変えない かもしれないが、こうしたデザイン界の新たな方向 性と品揃えの多様化を見ると、装いと共に自宅もフ ァッショナブルにすることは今までになく容易くなっ ているようだ。

86: The Right Touch 納得の手触り 飽きの来ないセーターから流行のジャンプスーツに 至るまで、カシミヤのスペシャリスト、ファルコネリは 現代人に愛される服をデザインしている。ハンナ・ル イスがレポートする。 冬の装いといえば、肌に触れるカシミアの柔らかな 風合いは格別だ。カシミア山羊の毛の繊維から作ら れたカシミアウールは、羊毛ウールより繊細で柔ら かく、軽いのに暖かいため、世紀を越えて目利きが 愛用してきた。 この贅沢な織地は、アジアをはじめ世界の一部 地域では何千年も昔から人気が高かったが、他の 大陸で好まれるようになったのは1400年代に入って からだ。複雑なプロセスを経る生産は時間がかかる ため、カシミアはその後も長らく贅沢品だったが、近 頃はこの素晴らしい素材を使ってファッション性の 高いアイテムをデザインするファルコネリのようなレ ーベルのおかげで手が届きやすくなっている。 1999年に創業したファルコネリは、品質へのこ だわりで瞬く間に定評を確立。10 年後にダイナミッ クなイタリアンアパレル大手カルツェドニアの傘下に 入ったことで、伝統的な価値観だけでなく現代的な デザインも保証された。 ファルコネリの品質に対するこだわりに変わり はなく、新旧を問わず最善の技巧や工程を求めて絶 えず研究を行っている。同社の服は、上質の天然糸 を伝統的手法で織り上げて作る。デザインスケッチ から各アイテムの製作、パッケージングに至るまで の全工程を、北イタリアのアヴィオにあるファルコネ リの工場で行い、 「メイド・イン・イタリア」のラベル を使えることを誇りにしている。

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コレクションではセーターやコートなど時代を 越えて繰り返し着られるアイテムに、ファッション性 の高いデザインを加える。2016/17年秋冬のウーマ ンズコレクションでは、ジャンプスーツや高級ジョガ ーパンツの他、従来のニットウェアの概念を覆すトッ プやプリーツスカートも登場した。1970 年代にイン スピレーションを得たデザインもあり、ファルコネリ が時勢を正確に把握していることを証明している。 メンズでは、フォーマルウェアとカジュアルウェアの 境が一層曖昧になっている傾向をとらえ、近代的テ クニックを使ってジャケットにスポーティな風合いを 出した。今シーズンの出色アイテムは、フェルトウー ルとダメージ加工レザーを使ったトレンディなバイカ ージャケットだ。 このように品質とスタイルを併せ持つファルコネ リの服。同ブランドが近年目覚ましい発展を遂げて いるのも不思議ではない。カルツェドニアは2009年 に、イタリアだけでも5軒のファルコネリ店舗を新規 オープンした。同ブランドは現在、4か国に80軒のブ ティックを展開し、ミラノのモンテナポレオーネ通り やヴィットーリオ・エマヌエーレ二世通りなど、イタリ アの最高級ショッピング街に旗艦店を構える（今年 は、ローマだけでも3店舗を新たにオープンする予 定だ）。 ファッション界もファルコネリに注目しており、 ファルコネリブランドのメンズウェアやウーマンズウ ェアは『グラツィア』、 『ヴァニティフェア』、 『ヴォー グ』といった影響力のあるファッション誌で特集さ れている。 美しく、かつ長持ちする服に対する消費者の関 心が高まり、上質の織地が再び脚光を浴びている。 そんな中でカシミアを買うなら、やはりファルコネリ だろう。完璧なクルーネックセーターであろうが、ト レンドを敏感に取り入れたニットウェアであろうが、 ファルコネリ製の逸品は探すに値する。 globalblue.com

142: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なりま。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還 付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94を超えるお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料 を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ さい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課 されます。

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BEST FOOT FORWARD Leather loafers are a wardrobe staple and this Bougeotte pair in grained leather will make the perfect addition to your closet. Bougeotte collections focus on clean, harmonious lines, fine materials and classic craftsmanship. The natural colours chosen for this range, including beige, brown and grey, are juxtaposed with Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

vibrant purple and burgundy. Bougeotte’s bee logo appears throughout the label’s accessories, in this case on the backs of the loafers in gold, and also on their insoles, to add an extra touch of elegance. fm Bougeotte loafers, €1,200, Bougeotte, Via Manzoni 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7201 0366, bougeotte.it; by appointment only

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