SHOP London Lux AW15

LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 | ‫لندن‬

LONDON Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

Page 48 BEST-DRESSED BEAR: Paddington models the versatile dufel coat for SHOP

12

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this sophisticated European fashion and design hub. London has much to ofer, as our guide on page 76 reveals. Readers who appreciate classic British design will enjoy our feature on the dufel coat (page 48), and in this issue we also meet accessories queen Lulu Guinness (page 54) and profle the top labels adopting a newly artisanal look (page 60).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to London

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Malaysia Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris

A/W 2015 Collection

Joseph 77 Fulham Road, London

joseph-fashion.com

14

Nick Ellwood British illustrator Nick Ellwood created this season’s cover illustration for the luxury edition of SHOP London. His detailed line drawing and sharp character observation made him the perfect choice to reimagine Paddington Bear, the famous children’s character known for his dufel coat. Inspired by our feature on page 48 about this versatile coat, it shows Paddington on a prestigious shopping street in the city – surrounded by equally well-dressed Londoners. Nick’s other clients include the BBC, the Guardian and Warner Bros.

Explore our archive of SHOP magazine cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Karen Munnis Writer and fashion stylist Karen Munnis has contributed to the Hufngton Post, Motilo.com, Fashion magazine, the Globe & Mail and British Glamour. Her stylist clients include Sony Music, MTV and the BBC. globalblue.com

PHOTO: TOBY DUTTON

PHOTO: ROBERT SHRAM

ILLUSTRATION: NICK ELLWOOD

CONTRIBUTORS

Harriet Quick Fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue, where she was the title’s fashion features director for over a decade. She has interviewed many of the fashion world’s biggest stars.

Sarah Beyts Sarah Beyts, SHOP’s creative editor and deputy picture editor, commisions the magazine’s covers, which are created by some of the world’s best illustration talent. Sarah enjoys capturing the world through her camera.

16

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor/ acting features editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Nick Ellwood Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Karen Munnis, Harriet Quick, Frances Wasem Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

PADDINGTON™ and PADDINGTON BEAR™ © Paddington and Company Limited 2015 Paddington Bear™, Paddington™ and PB™ are trademarks of Paddington and Company Limited Licensed by Copyrights Group www.paddington.com

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna

GLOBA L BLU E U K Vice president sales Northern Europe Richard Brown Head of commercial UK & Ireland Gordon Clark UK sales manager Peter Blake UK key accounts sales manager Darren Waite UK marketing sales manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing account manager Patrick Prior International key account managers Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey Key account managers Onkar Badesha, Sarah Farag, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Mike Shrimpton, Sunni Sokhi, Victoria Taylor Account managers Saish Balakashnan, Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez Global Blue UK, 11th f loor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Contact Patrick Prior: pprior@globalblue.com

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

BOND STREET | THE VILLAGE, WESTFIELD LONDON SLOANE STREET | LEDBURY ROAD | PONT STREET

ANYAHINDMARCH.COM

18

CONTENTS

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

p.48

P ROD U C T S 22 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season 24 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 32 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed during London Fashion Week N EWS 36 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 38 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F E AT U R E S 48 Cover Story: Top Coat This season’s versatile dufel is seen in versions that range from decidedly retro to thoroughly modern, writes Karen Munnis 54 A Very British Wit Lulu Guinness is celebrating 25 years in the fashion industry. Frances Wasem meets the mischievous, humorous, quintessentially British designer 60 Show of Hands London’s most exciting designers are adopting artisanal techniques, to stunning efect. Harriet Quick profles the labels seeking out the handmade, the authentic and the crafted

Above: Mary Katzantrou’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection features dufel coats in colourful prints

giuseppe zanotti design

Fall-Winter 2015

20

CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 68 Table Talk London’s seafood restaurants hold their own among the best in the world. Isabella Redmond Styles picks out some top eateries where fsh is the dish of the day 72 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 76 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London 90 My Neighbourhood Designer Roland Mouret takes SHOP on a tour of London’s Mayfair district

ESSENTI A LS 94 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 95 Русский Перевод 100 美文翻译 105 ‫يبرع‬ SOU V E N I R 106 The essential item to bring home

E N GL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

ONLINE

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

FASHION

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu

@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

COMPETITIONS

PHOTO: FRANCISCO GUERRERO

/globalblue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

ESTABLISHED MORE THAN 75 YEARS AGO, AT RIGBY & PELLER WE’RE BEST KNOWN FOR OUR PIONEERING LINGERIE STYLING SERVICE, OUR PROUD LONDON HERITAGE, AND, OF COURSE, OUR EXPERTLY CURATED COLLECTIONS OF BEAUTIFULLY MADE LINGERIE.

VISIT OUR FLAGSHIP KNIGHTSBRIDGE BOUTIQUE 2 HANS ROAD, LONDON, SW3 1RX I 02072254760 WWW.RIGBYANDPELLER.CO.UK

22 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

OUTSIDE IN Formed from a single piece of high-quality leather and completely reversible, the Guston bag by Issey Miyake is a truly versatile piece.

Unzip the classic black tote and re-zip it inside out to reveal a boldly coloured, graphically printed version of the same bag. The reverse of the black leather has been lovingly printed and laminated to create an eye-catching textured efect. Issey Miyake is known for experimental, Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

technologically driven designs, and this bag certainly fts that description. It is easy to see why this beautiful, functional and, above all, clever range has already become one of the brand’s icons. Available in a variety of colours, the Guston collection also includes clutches, shoulder bags and shoppers, all reversible in the same innovative way. hl Issey Miyake Guston bags, £2,085 each, Issey Miyake, 10 Brook Street, London W1S 1BG, +44 (0)20 7851 4620, isseymiyake.com * for map go to page 81

24 | P RO D U C T S

RED ALERT Nothing warms up winter like a cosy coat and accessories in shades of scarlet

2

1 1

3

4

1. Burberry Prorsum jacket, £2,195, Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com

3. Solange Azagury-Partridge earrings, £4,800, Solange Azagury-Partridge, 5 Carlos Place, London W1K 3AP, +44 (0)20 7792 0197, solange.co.uk

2. Acne Studios ring, £170, Acne Studios, 13 Dover Street, London W1S 4LN, +44 (0)20 7629 9374, acnestudios.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

4. Ex Nihilo Venenum Kiss eau de parfum, 50ml, £150, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, ex-nihilo-paris.com

S H O P | 25

5

8

6

9

PHOTOS: (5) SOLANGE LTD; (7) GEOFFROY BAUD; (8) STANILAS WOLFF

7

8

5. Gucci beret, £160, Gucci, 34 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QL, +44 (0)20 7629 2716, gucci.com

7. Miu Miu shoes, £555, Miu Miu, 150 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TU, +44 (0)20 7409 0900, miumiu.com

6. Bulgari Lucea watch, £19,100, Bulgari, 153A New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE, +44 (0)20 7872 9969, bulgari.com

8. Lanvin necklace, £1,230, Lanvin, 128 Mount Street, London W1K 3NU, +44 (0)20 7491 1839, lanvin.com

globalblue.com

9. Chloé Hudson bag, from £1,230, Chloé, 152-153 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9BX, +44 (0)20 7823 5348, chloe.com

26 | P RO D U C T S

ARMY SURPLUS Accessories in grey and khaki bring out the military edge of this coat and a slick of deep red lipstick fnishes the look

1

2

3

1

1. Marc by Marc Jacobs General coat, £800, Marc by Marc Jacobs, 56 South Audley Street, London W1K 2RR, +44 (0)20 7408 7050, marcjacobs.com

3. Chanel Rouge Coco Shine lipstick, £25, Chanel Beauty Boutique, The Market, Covent Garden Piazza, London WC2E 8RF, +44 (0)20 7240 2001, chanel.com

2. Cartier watch, from £25,200, Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RN, +44 (0)20 7408 5700, cartier.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

4. Barbour for Land Rover gloves, £59.95, Barbour, St Martin’s Courtyard, 134 Long Acre, London WC2E 9AA, +44 (0)20 7240 5061, barbour.com

PHOTOS: (2) © CARTIER/VINCENT WULVERYCK; (4) J BARBOUR & SONS/BRIAN YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY; (8) BERNHARD DECKERT

4

S H O P | 27

5

6

7

8

5. 7 For All Mankind jeans, £225, 7 For All Mankind, 11B King Street, London WC2E 8HN, +44 (0)20 7240 1294, 7forallmankind.com 6. Nixon Mini Blaster speaker, £89, Nixon, 6 Newburgh Street, London W1F 7RQ, +44 (0)20 7434 4519, nixon.com globalblue.com

7. Cos shoes, £135, Cos, 130-131 Long Acre, London WC2E 9AA, +44 (0)20 3426 7530, cosstores.com

8. Alexander McQueen bag, £1,295, Alexander McQueen, 4-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PD, +44 (0)20 7355 0088, alexandermcqueen.com

28 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK THIS

3

Mix tartans and plaids in subtle shades for a fashion-forward look 1

1. Z Zegna shirt, £175, Ermenegildo Zegna, 78 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RZ, +44 (0)20 7518 2700, zegna.com

3. Vivienne Westwood James Bond trousers, £374, Vivienne Westwood Man, 18 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XN, +44 (0)20 7478 2060, viviennewestwood.com

2. Coach document case, £230, Coach, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7589 2851, coach.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

4. Tod’s trainers, £285, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PE, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com

PHOTOS: (1) CARLO BEVILACQUA; (2) © COACH

4

2

Porsche Design

CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1 DEEP BLUE – Polished titanium chronograph with deep blue accents. A fusion of elegance and sportiness. Swiss Made.

EXPERIENCE THE NEW LUXURY LIFEST YLE Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and finest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.

We are proud to design for the men and women of tomorrow. www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design London | 59 Brompton Road | +44 [ 0 ] 20 75814442 Porsche Design Harrods | 87–135 Brompton Road | +44 [ 0 ] 20 78938878

30 | P RO D U C T S

SMART GUY Luxe accessories and fne fragrance are must-haves in any stylish gentleman’s dressing room

1

5

2

3

4

3. Giorgio Armani briefcase, price on request, Giorgio Armani, 37 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9LP, +44 (0)20 7235 6232, armani.com

2. Shinola Runwell pocket watch, £645, Shinola, 13 Newburgh Street, London W1F 7RS, +44 (0)20 7287 0155, shinola.co.uk

4. Etro boots, £575, Etro, 43 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QT, +44 (0)20 7493 9004, etro.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

5. Acqua di Parma Colonia Club fragrance, 100ml, £81, John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1A 1EX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, acquadiparma.com PHOTO: (3) ANDRÉ LUCAT

1. Moncler jacket, £1,655, Moncler, 197 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7235 0857, moncler.com

32 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The stylish women of London prove that beige is anything but boring, using this classic shade as a base note to ground more daring shapes and prints

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

S H O P | 33

globalblue.com

34 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

Liven up traditional tailoring with the help of bold colours, stripes and checks – add a touch of the unexpected with strong accessories and sporty pieces

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

PHOTOS: EMANUELE D’ANGELO/LC-JOURNAL.COM

STREET STYLE

S H O P | 35

globalblue.com

36 | N E W S

PHOTO: © MARK COCKSEDGE

SHOP WINDOW

SIGNATURE STYLE The Delfna Delettrez fagship on Mayfair’s Mount Street, which opened in early 2015, is the jewellery designer’s frst standalone in London and stocks her full collection. The striking space is almost other-worldly – much like some of the jeweller’s creations – and uses deep ocean greens and blues, gold fttings and sparse lighting to create an ethereal feel.

Polished metals and huge mirrors create an ‘infnity efect’ which Delettrez conceived in collaboration with architect Rafael de Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

Cárdenas. Trompe l’oeil has been a key feature throughout her collections since she established her eponymous brand in 2007, so it is only ftting that her signature style – which sees earrings and rings appear to foat – should be refected in the design of her boutique. The Roman designer is a frm favourite among the fashion crowd. If you haven’t discovered her uniquely luxurious jewellery yet, this is the perfect place to make its acquaintance. hl Delfna Delettrez, 109 Mount Street, London W1K 2TR, +44 (0)20 7629 5550, delfnadelettrez.com * for map go to page 80

38 | N E W S

GOLD STANDARD

PHOTO: LUC BOEGLY

French haute parfumerie is reinterpreted by Atelier Des Ors in a new line of fve modern, elegant and sophisticated fragrances.

The perfumes, with their musk and amber scents and notes of leather, classic rose and warm vanilla, are inspired by the Middle East, and made by outstanding craftsmen – as are the bottles they are

presented in. The Parisbased house uses symbols of the sun and of light, decorating the bottles with striking gold rays, an opulent design infuenced by art deco and a tribute to the golden era of French haute parfumerie.

Atelier Des Ors is available exclusively at Harrods. fm Atelier Des Ors, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, atelierdesors.com * for map go to page 85

SWEET SURPRISES Anyone with a sweet tooth will be glad to know that acclaimed Belgian chocolatier Maison Pierre Marcolini now has a standalone store in London. The bright and spacious store on Marylebone High Street ofers the brand’s luxurious, beautiful and – above all – delicious creations. It is home to a bespoke chocolate Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

counter, a macaroon carousel, a sweetie bar, a tasting area, a chocolate library and much more.

The fagship will also ofer exclusive items unavailable anywhere else in the UK, including delectable freshly made eclairs. mkh Maison Pierre Marcolini, 37 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QE, +44 (0)20 7486 7196, marcolini.com

| 39 SH HO OP P| S

WHO’S THE BOSS? Renovated and reopened in 2015, the Boss store on New Bond Street is now bigger and better than ever, and a must-visit for fans of this German brand. Over three foors, the store ofers menswear, womenswear and accessories, presented in a cleverly designed space that contrasts matte and high-gloss materials to create a modern and sophisticated aesthetic – the perfect backdrop for the collections. As well as Boss ready-to-wear, accessories and sportswear, a made-to-measure service can be found on the lower level, allowing clients to get exactly what they want. mkh

Boss, 122 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DT, +44 (0)20 7499 5605, hugoboss.com * for map go to page 81

STORY HEADING

STORY HEADING

English

English

русский язык Russian

русский язык Russian

中国的 Chinese Name Of Place Address and Telephone website * for map go to page 00

PHOTO: ANDY BARNHAM

中国的 Chinese Name Of Place Address and Telephone website * for map go to page 00

TOP TAILORING The impressive Brunello Cucinelli fagship on London’s Burlington Gardens is the brand’s second-largest store in the world, second only to its Tokyo fagship. A sleek space with white walls, polished foors and antique furniture, the store was revamped and reopened a year ago, unveiling a huge upstairs space devoted entirely globalblue.com

to menswear. The brand is known for combining the formal with the casual, but has recently expanded its formal oferings, and the suits and shirts are standout pieces in the latest collection.

As well as apparel, men can explore a wide range of accessories, shoes, and even candles. hl Brunello Cucinelli, 3 Burlington Gardens, London W1S 3EP, +44 (0)20 7287 4347, brunellocucinelli.com * for map go to page 81

40 | N E W S

Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com * for map go to page 84

PHOTO: STEPHANE MURATET

Quintessentially British brand Burberry has expanded its global fagship on Regent Street with Thomas’s, an exclusive area dedicated to gifts and all-day dining with a British theme. Thomas’s celebrates the best of British craftsmanship and creativity. The gift section ofers a seasonal collection created exclusively for the Regent Street store, together with products for the home, travel goods and more; all can be personalised, hand-embossed and wrapped in the store. The café ofers the fnest quality seasonal produce from small farmers and artisanal suppliers from around the UK. Burberry’s Regent Street store, which opened in 2012, is recognised as one of the most exciting and interactive fagships in the city. fm

PHOTO: BURBERRY PRORSUM

BURBERRY PRESENTS THOMAS’S

PARISIAN CHIC French fashion brand Céline’s new fagship is now open at 103 Mount Street, further enhancing the street’s credentials as a destination for luxury shopping. Designed by creative director Phoebe Philo and featuring bespoke objects by Danish artist Fos, the store’s interior is luxurious, warm and feminine, Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

with many subtle touches throughout. This showcase of Céline’s trademark house qualities, for collections and interiors alike, refects the brand’s respect for fne craftsmanship, rare raw materials, research and innovation. km Céline, 103 Mount Street, London W1K 2AP, +44 (0)20 7491 8200, celine.com * for map go to page 80

www.fenwick.co.uk FenwickofBondStreet

@FenwickBondSt

FenwickBondSt

42 | N E W S

GENTLEMAN’S CORNER

In brief:

Visitors to the Bally fagship on New Bond Street should not miss the chance to explore the exclusive service on ofer in the Gentleman’s Corner. Dedicated to illustrating the brand’s expertise in shoemaking and shoe care, Bally has made a select range of its classic men’s shoes available for customisation. While a wide range of colours is available, the Made to Colour service allows clients to order shoes in any other colour imaginable, with the exact shade realised by experts in store. An additional maintenance service makes the store a testament to Bally’s commitment to great service and genuine innovation. mkh Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SF, +44 (0)20 7499 0057, bally.com * for map go to page 81

– Vel-Oh, a Londonbased brand offering unique accessories for the styleconscious cyclist, is now available at Selfridges. We love the versatile Vel-Oh tote bag

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

Inspired by some of the favourite destinations of Wempe’s creative director Catherine Plouchard, the Cosmora rings from the By Kim range are some of the brand’s most artistic pieces to date. Plouchard and Kim-Eva Wempe – the two women at the helm of this historic company – are frm believers in jewellery that fts into a woman’s life, that is luxurious and beautiful yet made to be worn. In line with this philosophy, the three new rings in this collection, Cape Town, Tokyo and Route 66, are exquisite pieces that can be worn every day. Crafted from 18-carat white gold and set with diamonds, the rings are engraved with fuid lines to represent the natures of the diferent places that inspired them. hl Wempe, 43-44 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SA, +44 (0)20 7493 2299, wempe.com * for map go to page 81

PHOTO: CHRIS TUBBS PHOTOGRAPHY

WELLTRAVELLED WEMPE

S H O P | 43

JEWELLERY BOX The new jewellery department in Fenwick of Bond Street, which opened in May 2015, showcases an eclectic mix of brands. The space, which was designed by the team behind the Wolseley and the Delaunay restaurants, covers 1,566 square feet and features a private area for clients who wish to sit and enjoy a glass of Champagne while browsing the spectacular

jewellery on display. From casual items such as a personalised charm necklace to elaborate diamond pieces akin to works of art, there is something for every occasion. Many brands on ofer are exclusive to Fenwick, so clients can discover designers that they may never have come across before. th Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, fenwick.co.uk * for map go to page 81

CHOO SHOE HEAVEN The Jimmy Choo Townhouse, the brand’s biggest space in London, is an unmissable destination for anyone who loves shoes.

Following a recent expansion and renovation, the fagship looks better than ever, its newly revealed original terracotta façade leading into a beautiful space over three foors, connected by a luxurious marble staircase. Suspended in this central staircase is a striking art installation

by Iranian artist and Turner Prize nominee Shirazeh Houshiary, an eye-catching twisted matrix in blue and purple which brings serious drama to the space. The store ofers the full Jimmy Choo collection, the Made to Order service, and a VIP room. mkh Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858, jimmychoo.com * for map go to page 81 globalblue.com

44 | N E W S

PURE BEAUTY

DANISH DESIGN

In brief:

Renowned department store Fortnum & Mason, found on Piccadilly, has unveiled a brand new foor dedicated to beauty and perfume. Situated on the second foor of the iconic store, the beauty department ofers fne fragrance, beauty products, bath and body products and loungewear, as well as treatments in the Bamford Haybarn spa.

Fortnum & Mason has worked with the designers at Waldo Works to create an intimate experience for the customer.

There are fve main areas including the Heritage Hall, the Contemporary Gallery and the Perfumery, each with

The new Georg Jensen store on Mount Street showcases the brand’s redesigned interiors. Developed in partnership with Danish architect David Thulstrup, the modern setting features metallic art deco elements and sculptural lighting fxtures; the boutique’s clean lines, smooth surfaces and natural materials refect the trademarks of the Scandinavian aesthetic. The shop carries the complete range of Georg Jensen’s gold jewellery, as well as the brand’s Archive and Vintage jewellery ranges, silverware, Jordan Askill and Marc Newson collections, and also the newly launched Men’s Universe collection of pens, wallets and belts. Clients can also request bespoke services. th Georg Jensen, 89 Mount Street, London W1K 2SR, +44 (0)20 7499 6541, georgjensen.com * for map go to page 80

— Google Shop, the brand’s first store in the world, recently opened on Tottenham Court Road and is a must-visit for tech-heads

diferent inspirations, from art and culture to semi-precious stones and exclusive scents. fm Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040, fortnumandmason.com * for map go to page 84 Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

— Versus, Versace’s acclaimed diffusion line, will soon open its first standalone store in London, choosing hip Shoreditch as the perfect location for its fashionforward wares

S H O P | 45

MAKE IT YOUR OWN For the frst time, Salvatore Ferragamo presents a made-to-order incarnation of its iconic men’s Driver shoe. The structure of the Driver shoe is unique to Ferragamo, a tribute to innovation which combines the original Ferragamo moccasin with the modern driving shoe. The new made-to-order service, available at the brand’s Old Bond Street fagship, allows customers to make their own version of the shoe to refect their personal style. Fans of the brand can take their pick from over 100 diferent variations in upper, sole construction and hardware. Their chosen style can be made up in a vast array of colours and a number of luxurious materials, including crocodile, ostrich and Condor calf skin. hl Salvatore Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AL, +44 (0)20 7629 5007, ferragamo.com * for map go to page 82

NEW YORK IN LONDON Founded in New York in 1837, Tifany & Co is one of the handful of elite luxury brands that can genuinely be described as iconic. In July 2015, the internationally renowned jeweller brought a touch of New York’s Fifth Avenue to premium London department store Selfridges.

The company has relocated and expanded within the store, presenting a new space that is bigger and better than ever. Featuring a oneof-a-kind ceiling sculpture by Tomás Saraceno, the interior design explores the use of light and refraction – ftting for a brand renowned for its brilliant diamonds. The shop features a private sales room and a bridal salon where clients can enjoy Champagne while browsing the stunning range of Tifany jewellery. This is London’s ninth Tifany store and 10th in the UK. th Tifany & Co, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), tifany.com * for map go to page 80 globalblue.com

sa n dro -pa r is.com

se e t h e f i l m on sa n dro -pa r i s .com fa l l/w i nt er 15/16

TOP COAT This season’s dufel is seen in versions that range from decidedly retro to thoroughly modern – all variations work equally well for this versatile classic, writes Karen Munnis

50 | F E AT U R E S

T

he winter dufel coat, a versatile, unisex fashion favourite, is as much a classic as the springtime trench. For autumn/ winter 2015/16, many designers have looked to the past for inspiration for this function-meetsfashion outerwear.

The coat’s name is believed to come from the Belgian town of Dufel and the thick woollen material of the same name made there, but the dufel’s design, with its signature large hood and toggle fastenings, is distinctively British. Early versions were made in the late 19th century by the John Partridge workwear company from Rugeley in Stafordshire.

The dufel was frst widely worn in the early 1900s by the British navy, who favoured a camel version of the coat to protect them from harsh conditions at sea – with the added advantage that its loose-ftting shape and spacious hood ftted over a naval uniform and hat. The dufel was later nicknamed the Monty coat, as it was worn by Field Marshal Montgomery so that his men could easily identify him.

Sales of military surplus clothing to the public popularised the dufel coat, which became a widespread wardrobe staple in the 1950s and 60s. Fans included Jean Cocteau, who wore a white version. The toggle buttons and large hood were also added to children’s coats, and Paddington Bear wears a blue version. The dufel became a favourite of the music industry, worn by Glaswegian band Belle and Sebastian, and all members of Oasis are sporting a black version on the cover of the band’s 1995 single Roll With It. British brand Gloverall bought a consignment of the military-issue dufel coats, and in 1954, started producing its own version of the coat, which it continues to design today.

What accounts for the dufel’s continued popularity? ‘It comes down to form and function. The dufel coat has earned its place as an iconic British garment and a timeless wardrobe essential because it looks efortlessly stylish from one season to the next, while doing an impeccable job of keeping you warm and dry when the weather turns,’ says Mark Smith, sales and marketing director for the brand.

105

95 /

100

Previous page: Gloverall dufel coat toggles

PHOTO: GUILLAUME ROUJAS

S H O P | 51

Above (clockwise from bottom left): Gloverall advertisement from 1993; duffel coats were originally designed for the British navy; Gloverall Classics collection short slim-fit women’s duffel coat in red; Mary Katzantrou’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection features duffels in colourful prints

52 | F E AT U R E S

This season’s varied takes on the duffel coat, from classic retro references to quilted versions to bold hightech prints, prove its versatility

Like the trench coat, with its similarly solid heritage, the dufel coat’s long-lasting appeal lies in its wearability and warmth during the cold winter months. The Gloverall team continues to reference its classic elements when designing the rest of the brand’s collection. ‘Details like the wooden or horn toggle fastenings and rope or leather loops are synonymous with the dufel coat and are used throughout our Classic Collection. Elsewhere, the dufel remains a key inspiration when it comes to defning the protective elements of each jacket which we produce, so even the more lightweight styles have a technical build quality developed to stand up to the elements while looking super-contemporary,’ says Smith.

For its autumn/winter 2015/16 collection, called 1951, Gloverall took inspiration from historic sporting stories, such as black-andwhite photographs of 1950s British Formula One racing driver Tony Brooks wearing the Above: Gloverall 1951 collection autumn/winter 2015/16

classic Monty coat. This season, the boiled wool style is more streamlined and includes appliqué racing-inspired motifs and pins.

Gloverall isn’t the only brand that has turned to the past for dufel coat design inspiration. British label Ben Sherman redesigned the coat for autumn/winter 2015/16.

‘It came about because we were looking into garments that have had an afliation with British youth culture,’ says Mark Williams, head of design at Ben Sherman. ‘When worn over a blazer it becomes the new wool parka for the season, and moves on the classic mod silhouette.’

The dufel coat goes modern for autumn/ winter 2015/16, too. For his Raft collection, menswear designer Christopher Raeburn worked with a high-quality Italian nylon and added a moody rust print to create an updated, quilted dufel coat.

The dufel has been adopted by womenswear designers, too. For her autumn/ winter 2015/16 collection, which she has described as ‘heritage opulence versus techy utopia’, Mary Katrantzou sent models down the catwalk wearing dufel coats emblazoned with her bold signature prints, worn with high heels and opaque coloured tights.

The dufel adopts these thoroughly modern facelifts as efortlessly as it does the retro references seen elsewhere; there can surely be few coat styles as adaptable gloverall.com, bensherman.com, christopherraeburn.co.uk, marykatrantzou.com

PHOTO: Š GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 53

Above (clockwise from top lef): Mary Katrantzou; Christopher Raeburn has updated the dufel coat with a rust print in quilted material; Ben Sherman, all autumn/winter 2015/16

54 | F E AT U R E S

A VERY BRITISH WIT

Lulu Guinness, known for her iconic Lips clutch bag, is celebrating 25 years in the fashion industry.

Frances Wasem meets the mischievous, humorous, quintessentially British designer

96 / 105

100

Above (from lef): Lulu Guinness Frame lips clutch autumn/winter 2015/16; the brand’s designer

56 | F E AT U R E S

T

his year, Lulu Guinness celebrated a landmark 25 years in British fashion.

It’s an achievement in an industry where young designers often struggle to survive. It’s an even bigger achievement when you discover that her eponymous luxury line started as nothing more than a spark of an idea and the ambition to ‘do something diferent and make a million.’

It was the end of the 1980s, when big shoulder pads ruled, women were fnally forcing open the door into the boardroom and Melanie Grifth in Working Girl was to become a role model for a generation of women.

Lulu Guinness’s ‘something diferent’ was a briefcase for that very woman. ‘It was an idea, not a brand,’ explains the petite, scarlet-lipped designer (she is wearing Mac’s Ruby Woo lipstick, of course). ‘No one was designing work accessories for women. The Filofax was the equivalent of a mobile and computer all rolled into one. I was obsessed with my Filofax and the briefcase was an extension of that idea.’

Guinness was also newly married and was looking for a way to move from flm editing into a role that allowed her to work from home.

‘As well as to make a million, which is what you said in those days. Now’s it’s a billion,’ she laughs, exuding an energy and warmth that’s infectious. Her coup was to anticipate a trend before it began. Her briefcase was the frst of its kind – a bag for businesswomen that was functional but beautiful. ‘I used the most expensive leather. It had sections for umbrellas and keys. The lining was red or purple suede,’ Guinness recalls. The bag turned out to be ‘the biggest fashion statement anyone had ever made!’

This brainwave led to a grant from the British Fashion Council. Guinness vividly remembers her frst London Fashion Week show in 1991. ‘I was eight months pregnant and Anya Hindmarch walked over to welcome me.’

Guinness is known for her sense of mischief and weaves myriad design references (Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí are ongoing infuences) from many artistic disciplines, including illustration, architecture and furniture design, into her collections.

Above (from lef): Lulu Guinness’s 1989 briefcase design was groundbreaking; the brand’s designs are frequently colourful

S H O P | 57

‘I am a designer with an opinion, not someone who does trends,’ she emphasises. ‘I will never put a fringe on a bag, just because it’s in fashion.’ The DNA of the brand refects the designer’s personality – she is sophisticated, witty and efortlessly feminine. ‘Quality is also important to me,’ she continues. ‘I use luxury leathers and fnishes. I want people to think my bag cost £600, when it actually cost £300.

When you buy one of my bags you’re buying the leather, the workmanship – and not an advertising campaign for 27 stores globally.’

That said, Guinness’s bags do sell worldwide, particularly in Asia and Italy, as well as the UK. The company’s global turnover is now a healthy £10 million. Guinness established her business in the basement of the house she still lives and designs in. ‘In the beginning I did it all, flled out forms, boxed up product,’ she recalls. The designer got her big break when London’s Victoria and Albert Museum featured one of her rose basket designs on the posters for its 50 Years of Fashion exhibition. ‘My rose basket was Above (from top): Perspex Lips clutches; Tape Face Grace pouch; A Litle Lipstick Never Hurts clutch, all autumn/winter 2015/16

58 | F E AT U R E S

Above: the rose basket bag that featured on the poster for the Victoria and Albert Museum’s 50 Years of Fashion exhibition

PHOTO: PETER BROOKER/REX SHUTTERSTOCK

S H O P | 59

the size of buildings. It was a game changer because it caught the public’s imagination,’ says Guinness. Within weeks ‘there were chaufeurdriven Rolls-Royces queuing outside my house.

Models and celebrities, like Jerry Hall, came to west London to fnd me.’

Fast-forward 25 years and the celebrity faces may have changed but the design ideology hasn’t. Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Paloma Faith and Helena Bonham Carter are all fans of Guinness’ clutches (particularly those Lips designs). The designer married into a name that resonated in class-conscious 1980s Britain: did it open any doors? ‘When I frst started out I used “Lulu” as the logo,’ the designer reveals.

‘In interviews I asked them to take Guinness of. I wanted to know if I could design, in my own right.’ Clearly, she can. Guinness is now a proud member of the British fashion establishment. ‘There’s a sensitivity and a vulnerability to British designers; now that our commercial side is catching up with our creative side, no one can touch us.’

Guinness’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection brims with British wit and energy. ‘A little lipstick never hurts’ is embossed across a

black sequined clutch while faces, in diferent variations, have been an inspiration for several seasons. ‘The “tape” face really interests me,’ says Guinness. ‘They were inspired by the work of Donald Drawbertson, the creative director of Bobbi Brown.’

How, after all these years, does she remain so relevant? ‘It’s about being observant; I’m fascinated by sociological trends. You also need a lot of resilience and touch of madness. On a bad day I think, “What am I doing? I’m too old for this” and on a good day, “Oh my god, there are 40 people working in an ofce because I have ideas in my head.” I feel so privileged.’ luluguinness.com

Above (clockwise from top lef): Lulu Guinness autumn/winter 2015/16; the Lips clutch is a favourite of actress Helena Bonham Carter; lipstick keyring from the current collection

SHOW OF

104

98 /

101

Above: hand crafing at Burberry

HANDS

London’s most exciting designers are adopting artisanal techniques, to stunning efect. Harriet Quick profles the labels seeking out the handmade, the authentic and the crafted

While the wheels of the fashion industry continue to turn, dropping relentless trends, another set of smaller, more intricate cogs has been put in motion in the luxury sector.

London designers are collaborating with specialised craftsmen and utilising artisanal techniques to create designs that speak of authenticity, integrity and the prowess of the handmade. The efects are highly sophisticated rather than craftsy, and visible in a whole variety of mediums from delicate hand-sewn lace to storytelling patchwork to hand-tufted tulle, fock and devoré velvets. The fascination is giving the autumn/winter 2015/16 collections a deeply tactile, cultured aesthetic.

For Christopher Kane, one of London’s leading image and tastemakers, inspiration was sparked during a life-drawing class he had arranged for his team in his east London studio. ‘These beautiful drawings just came about and I decided to collage the silhouettes in lace so you might see a hand or a body part – everyone embracing and touching, or about to,’ explains Kane, who worked with highly skilled technicians in a lace atelier in Switzerland to

S H O P | 63

Belief in the superiority of craftsmanship over industrial products is a longstanding British trait

PHOTO: CATWALKING.COM

achieve the efects he was seeking. Avant-garde musician and style pin-up FKA Twigs was one of the frst to sport one of the sensual designs, causing a stir at the Met Gala and a furry of pre-orders.

Intricate handwork also proved compelling for Christopher Bailey at Burberry who dubbed his collection Patchwork, Pattern and Prints and appealed to our current love of 1970s style.

Each individual piece boasted a variety of techniques, from appliquĂŠ and topstitching to Indian mirror embroidery, hand-blocked prints and crochet trims. The subtle juxtaposition of surface detail, print and rich vegetable dyes proved mesmerising. While the tiered bib dresses and foral suede trench coats had their roots in 70s hippy communes, the vision for 2015 signalled a taste for artisan-led luxury and, perhaps, a fnal goodbye to shiny, logoladen luxe.

The groundswell of interest in the decorative crafts seems to suit the British mentality. After all, this is the birthplace of William Morris, the pioneer of the Arts and Crafts Movement in late Victorian England.

Morris was known for his unwavering belief in the superiority of craftsmanship over industrial, machine-made products. The William Morris Gallery demonstrates this dedication.

Alexander McQueen is a long-time

Above (from lef): Christopher Kane; the designer’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection at London Fashion Week

supporter of Britain’s craftsmen. The brand’s team, led by creative director Sarah Burton, tracks down and collaborates with all manner of specialists from feather embroiderers to saddlery experts, bronze casters and even the specialists responsible for creating the hair plumage for the Queen’s Horse Guards.

For the brand’s latest collection, Burton created extraordinary 3D fower efects from hand-tufted and sculpted tulle for elaborate evening dresses that were partly inspired by photographer David Sims’s images of decaying

PHOTO: SIMON ARMSTRONG

PHOTO: DAN MEDHURST

64 | F E AT U R E S

roses. Leather and tulle was worked into intricate intarsias to create cage-like corsets, while lace was distressed to create ravishing evening gowns. Nature is never ‘perfect’ and this was Burton’s paean to the beauty of imperfection.

Exploration of the happy accidents of handiwork is also central to designer Michael van der Ham’s style. The designer has made Above (clockwise from top lef): Burberry crafsmanship; Michael van der Ham artisanal fashion; Alexander McQueen, both autumn/ winter 2015/16

PHOTO: MORGAN O’DONOVAN

S H O P | 65

bricolage or patchwork his motif since his MA graduation year at Central Saint Martins art school in 2009. ‘I like so many diferent fabrics and embroideries that I want to include everything,’ he says of a process that sees him pinning and playing with the colours and textures of luscious artisanal fabrics to create his artistic dresses. The designer has started a demi-couture service at his Hackney studio.

Actress Helena Bonham Carter was one of the frst to swing by for a ftting.

Erdem is another brand known for combining the raw and the refned. Designer Erdem Moralioğlu staged his autumn/winter 2015/16 show in a series of atmospheric 1960s-styled room sets flled with characterful objects. Models walked through the rooms like characters in a play, wearing a series of bodice-topped party dresses created from a clever mix of rich jacquard fabrics with frayed edges. There is a charming aristocratic yet make-do-and-mend storytelling about these

designs that speaks of pragmatism as well as passion. Interior decorative crafts also proved compelling for the team at Mulberry, who looked to Georgian stucco, stonemasonry and tile patterns as a visual source for a tactile, rich collection that includes tweed coats with relief efects that resemble stucco and silk jacquard skater skirts.

It’s always good to have a location in mind for the unveiling of any new collection. We think Kane’s Lover’s Lace would look a picture against the sarcophagi in the Victoria and Albert Museum, while Burberry’s patchwork splendours would be ideal for touring the newly reopened Sir John Soane’s Museum – a treasure trove of antiquities and decorative arts.

Culturally rich fashion delivers many rewards christopherkane.com, burberry.com, alexandermcqueen.com, michaelvanderham.com, erdem.com, mulberry.com

Above: atmospheric 1960s-era room set from Erdem’s autumn/winter 2015/16 show

PARIS

68 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK London’s seafood restaurants hold their own among the best in the world.

Isabella Redmond Styles picks out some top eateries where fsh is the dish of the day

London is not lacking in world-class seafood restaurants and many are among the city’s longest-established and most revered gastronomic establishments. The city is home to Billingsgate Market, the UK’s largest inland fsh market, which covers 13 acres and sells an average of 25,000 tonnes of fsh each year, so the city’s top restaurants can easily source fantastic fsh. Environmentally conscious diners will be glad to know that most make a point of serving fsh that is responsibly caught from sustainable sources.

Traditionally, great quality seafood was the preserve of London’s most exclusive restaurants. However, in recent years, new eateries have found creative and appealing ways to make seafood accessible to all, whether you prefer to enjoy a dozen oysters and lobster thermidor in a restaurant frequented by flm stars or simply fancy a casual but delicious fsh supper. Even the most discerning diners are guaranteed to fall for London’s seafood restaurants hook, line and sinker. globalblue.com

S H O P | 69

C R A B TAV E R N

Crab Tavern, launched last summer in the revamped Broadgate Circle, celebrates one particular crustacean, as its name suggests. The menu is a New York-inspired mix of hero crab dishes such as soft-shell crab burger and crab Caesar sub, along other favourites like steak and chips, oyster po’boy and an adventurous shrimp mac ‘n’ cheese toastie. Signature crabthemed house specials include king crab and bonito mash and the West Coast Bucket Boil – a hearty combination of crab claws, mussels, lobster, ratte potatoes, merguez sausage and sweetcorn.

Crab Tavern, Unit 7, Broadgate Circle, London EC2M 2QS, +44 (0)20 7096 2044, crabtavern.co.uk

70 | E X P E R I E N C E

J SHEEKEY

Located in Covent Garden, close to many of the West End’s famous theatres, J Sheekey is a longstanding and very glamorous stalwart of London’s restaurant scene. The restaurant is named after Josef Sheekey, a seafood stallholder who opened an oyster bar in 1896 at the same location the restaurant still occupies. J Sheekey is loved by actors and audiences alike for its carefully sourced seafood, from dressed crab to potted shrimps and, of course, the famous fsh pie. Every dish shows of the fantastic quality of the ingredients. For a more informal meal, head to the J Sheekey Oyster Bar next door to the main restaurant; while the menu here is shorter, it includes delights such as tempura oysters with a wasabi dressing.

REX & MARIANO A relatively recent addition to London’s seafood scene, Rex & Mariano is a popular seafood grill and oyster bar with a Sicilian favour. The Soho eaterie is a partnership between well-known London fshmonger Rex Goldsmith and Mariano Li Vigni, an Italian with expert knowledge of Sicilian seafood. The restaurant sources its excellent seafood directly globalblue.com

J Sheekey, 28-32 St Martin’s Court, London WC2N 4AL, +44 (0)20 7240 2565, j-sheekey.co.uk

from the UK and Sicily and the aim is to make seafood more accessible and allow diners to enjoy the delights of the Sicilian coast in central London. Highlights include fritto misto with old bay seasoning, lemon and aioli, as well as whole dover sole and sea bass tartare served with basil and lemon.

Rex & Mariano, 2 St Anne’s Court, London W1F 0AZ, +44 (0)20 7437 0566, rexandmariano.com

72 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

LA RÉSERVE PARIS Despite being within walking distance of the Champs-Élysées, La Réserve is a surprisingly peaceful place to stay. A Haussmann-style urban mansion, the hotel boasts spacious rooms, marble freplaces and rich fabrics throughout while amenities include a library, smoking lounge and – unusually for Paris – a globalblue.com

16-metre indoor swimming pool. The hotel restaurant, Le Gabriel, is a highlight, while the lush inner courtyard is an added bonus.

Apartments are available for longer stays; services include daily housekeeping, private chefs and in-room spa treatments.

La Réserve Paris, 42 avenue Gabriel, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5836 6060, lareserve-paris.com

E X P E R I E N C E | 73

TOWNHOUSE GALLERIA Milan’s TownHouse Galleria hotel occupies one of the city’s most sought-after locations, within the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Its 27 modern guestrooms and suites each strike the perfect balance between hi-tech amenities and home comforts. The rooms’

décor has been carefully considered, with a colour palette and material selection intended to create a feeling of quiet luxury and refnement.

Don’t miss La Sinfonia, the hotel’s restaurant, which is exclusive to guests and home to a lounge bar that is the perfect place to enjoy an evening aperitivo.

TownHouse Galleria, Via Silvio Pellico 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3659 4690, townhousehotels.com

74 | E X P E R I E N C E

ROSA GRAND

PHOTO: JAKUB DVORAK

Set in the heart of Milan’s historic centre, the Rosa Grand hotel exudes Italian elegance throughout each of its 330 rooms. There are three room types available; all refect the inherent sense of style which Milan is known for, without sacrifcing comfort, and ofer impressive views across Piazza Fontana to the Duomo. Be sure to dine at one of the hotel’s three restaurants, all operated in partnership with Eataly. Choose between Roses, Sfzio and the Grand Lounge and bar – all combine the highest-quality produce with Italian culinary traditions.

Rosa Grand, Piazza Fontana 3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 88311, starhotels.com

THE MARK The luxurious interior of the Mark hotel in Prague refects its former incarnation as a baroque palace; expect rich textures, fne furnishings and specially commissioned works of art throughout. All the city’s main attractions are within walking distance of the hotel and each of its rooms ofers a private balcony with panoramic views. Choose from globalblue.com

two restaurants, each serving a menu of modern Bohemian cuisine, enjoy an aperitif at the Two Steps Bar with its vaulted neobaroque ceilings, or check into the wellness centre for a massage. The grand deluxe rooms with kitchenette are ideal for those looking for a home away from home.

The Mark, Hybernská 12, 110 00 Prague, +420 226 226111, themark.cz

Polo Ralph Lauren • Jack Victor • Paul & Shark • Bruno Saint Hilaire • Remy • Tommy Hilfger Tallia Orange • Michael Kors • Brooks Brothers • Lacoste • Samuelsohn • Robert Graham True Religion • John Laing • Cole Haan • Brioni • Eton of Sweden • Lucky Brand

90 Brompton Road, SW3 1ER, London (in Knightsbridge, opposite Harrods) Visit rochesterclothing.com • Call 0800 44 22 77

76 | G U I D E

GUIDE

PHOTO: KIRSTY PHOTO: ANDREWS XXXXXXX

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from one of the city’s most iconic fashion stores to the interiors boutique to know about. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

A GLIMPSE OF LONDON Above: the London Eye rises above an autumn view of the city

THE ULTIMATE LUXURY SH O PPIN G E XPERIEN CE Discover the fnest luxury shopping experience with more than 130 boutiques of the world’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands, plus instant tax refunds on your shopping.

ANYA HINDMARCH · BELSTAFF · CH CAROLINA HERRER A · MISSONI MARC BY MARC JACOBS · MULBERRY · RUPERT SANDERSON · SANDRO SALVATORE FERR AGAMO · STELLA MCCARTNEY · TAG HEUER AND MANY MORE.

#BICE STERVILL AGE

BICESTER VILLAGE IS ONE OF THE COLLECTION OF VILLAGES IN EUROPE AND CHINA

EUROPE BICESTER VILLAGE LONDON KILDARE VILLAGE DUBLIN LA VALLÉE VILLAGE PARIS WERTHEIM VILLAGE FR ANKFURT INGOLSTADT VILLAGE MUNICH MA ASMECHELEN VILLAGE BRUSSELS FIDENZA VILLAGE MILAN LA ROCA VILLAGE BARCELONA LAS ROZAS VILLAGE MADRID CHINA SUZHOU VILLAGE SUZHOU SHANGHAI VILLAGE, SHANGHAI (OPENING SPRING 2016)

© Bicester Village 2015

08/15

1935

78 | G U I D E

CENTRAL LONDON MARYLEBONE WE

WARWICK AVENUE

ST

EDGWARE ROAD

WA Y

H A R ROW RD

CH E P

EX

DE

NS

D

RD

SS

R GA

E

BAYSWATER

Q U E E NS

89

SU

D

AR

RD

PADDINGTON

page

AE

.

ST

GW

88

BAKER STREET

RD

E

S TO W

page

PR

ONE

EDGWARE ROAD

HARROW RD

ROYAL OAK PADDINGTON

M

EB A RY L

MARBLE ARCH

WAY

B AY S W

LANCASTER GATE

D AT E R R

QUEENSWAY NOTTING HILL GATE IN NO TT

G HI

LL G

AT E

The Long Water

K ENSI

KENSINGTON PALACE

NGT

Round Pond

ON

CH

The Serpentine

UR

SERPENTINE GALLERY

C

HS

P.90

T.

HIGH STREET KENSINGTON

page

85

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

D

ON

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

K E N SI NG TO N R D

.

ST

OM

ON

R

E S T.

BR

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

PT

OA

PONT S

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

S

page

RD N

TO

O

.R CT

LD

BR

P SOUTH O M KENSINGTON

AM

SLOANE SQUARE

RD DN SY

D

EARLS A R COURT W IC K RD

R

L’

W

EA

LH

M RO

EY

N KI

G’

S

RD

S T.

Place Of Interest

Train Station

T.

86

GLOUCESTER ROAD

FU

W

.C

L WE

C RO M W ELL R D

D LR

S LOA N

GT

H

PA L A C E G AT E

KE

IN NS

G HI

London Underground Station

Featured In This Issue

G U I D E | 79

BL OO M

UR

SR

D

page

87

CHANCERY LANE

TE AF

ET

TEMPLE

LEICESTER SQUARE R ST

AN

D

EN

T

LM

AL

L

EMBANKMENT

T E HA L L WHI

ST. JAMES PARK

EM

BA

NK

M

CHARING CROSS

I AD CC PI APSLEY HOUSE

BUCKINGHAM PALACE

A

COVENT GARDEN

PICCADILLY CIRCUS

.

ST

L PA

Y LL

.

NATIONAL THEATRE

ORIA

R

N MY

VE

FLE

YCH L DW

VIC T

JE

GREEN PARK

YA UR

SH

S 82

LN .

NT page

RY

GE

.

ST

84

CE

Y WA

RE

ND

page

AN

GS

BO

SB

T.

HOLBORN

CH

H

RN

KIN

W

83

page

HYDE PARK CORNER

HIG

O HO L B

.

RD ST OXFORD CIRCUS

81

80

LD’

T.

S T.

TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD

page

page

T

OBO HE

YS

AND

PL. NE

BOND STREET

SB

ND

RTL

TLA

T PO GRE A

POR

GOODGE STREET

OX F O

BRITISH MUSEUM

WATERLOO

WESTMINSTER

LONDON EYE

GR OS

VE NO

ST. JAMES PARK

BIG BEN

RP

L.

LAMBETH NORTH OR I

A

WESTMINSTER ABBEY

VICTORIA T MEN

LB

BANK

AL

RI

DG

ER

RT EM

XH

D

PIMLICO

globalblue.com

AL B E

GH

IN CK

BU

VA U

TATE GALLERY

LAM

BET

HR

OA

D

K EN N IN GTO N RD

AM

PA L

AC E

RD

VIC T

.

ST

S T.

80 | G U I D E

Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street P.83

& ND ● LLA HO LLAND HO M I● LIA ON ON BRI WIL ND S ● ●A ZO KEN ELL A ST ● Y TNE T ● CAR AN MC MAR BEL HEW ISA AT T O N ● M MS LIA WIL Y● RLE ● ● EST TEMPE LLIP S I VER ON H P YE EV ALD DIAN ERG ● OT H ON TIM B R N A● STE IEL FU R M A RG RIS ● IN HAR ART LLER MI

● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

ISO

BOURDON STREE T

MA

DAVIES STREET

NM

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD ●

● LANVIN

● LOEWE

● CAROLINA HERRERA

● GOYARD

P.90

● MOYNAT DELFINA ● DELETTREZ P.36 ● CÉLINE P.40

● PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● STEPHEN WEBSTER

Mount Street Deli P.90

Connaught Hotel

MOUNT STR EE T

ROKSANDA ●

C A R L O S P L ACE

MARC JACOBS ● GEORGE JENSEN ●

BALENCIAGA ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● PAULE KA ●

P.44

ScoÉ’s

MOUNT ROW ● ROLAND MOURET P.90 ● JESSICA MCCORMACK P.90 SOLANGE P.90 ● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE ● JENNY PACKHAM

GRO SVEN O R HIL L

DUNHILL BOURDON ● HOUSE

BR

N U TO

STR

EET

Berkeley Square

South Molton Street, Davies Street & Brook Street

VANLELES DIAMONDS

TRE

Selfridges BOND STREET

ET

I A L LO US T NZ E G G A R F O C R L OO R E O MI L A H O N S P I E O L OX FO RD S T RE ● V U T W IE RC ET ● A R O U D A C ● PINKO ACCESSORIZE ● ● B L A M IN ● C IAN S L E BOSIDENG ● ● G AIL ICA ● N RT H AR BROWNS ● ● A US O D D WHISTLES ● ● L INK AR ● P ÉR BS PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● ● G OB 3 NK BUTLER & WILSON ● ● H W CE ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● N PA S I N I O ● S EIS IM R R S CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ● R AT C A K E L E DUNE ● ER ● C AS BA OP ● M E D KO OM EN VERTICE UOMO ● ● T E ICE W K ILL LUMAS GALLERY ● ● TH FF LO M JONES ● ● O EL EN AR ● Y AR WE U MONICA VINADER ● ● K LO E N T E A ● S A J OO BA E R ● M AS IT IN GE AFTERSHOCK ● L EI ● T S POSTE ● ● P E U CO T G E T T COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● R UR E LA Y ● K T I N CO MODA IN PELLE ● ER ● AR HO AUBADE ● LL T C ● K WE OF N SANDRO ● E O C J S FREY WILLE ● ● INK ND SPENCE R ANNOUSHKA ● L LO ● HART ●

SO

UT

H

M

TO OL

N

P.90

ST

RE

ET

BROO K ST R EET

Claridge’s

E AV RY

BROOKS MEWS

● SONIA RYKIEL ● POMELLATO

VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●

DAVIES STR EET

The Beaumont

VanLeles Diamonds, owned by West African designer Vania Leles, has opened a fagship atelier in Mayfair.

The fne jewellery boutique is open by appointment only and jewellery lovers can expect showstopping pieces that combine femininity, natural beauty and rare gemstones, made by expert craftsmen in London, Florence and Paris. Visit the London store to browse the range or commission a very special bespoke design.

VanLeles Diamonds, 174 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RG, +44 (0)20 7409 1081, vanleles.com; by appointment only

P.90

NE W BOND S

● ROBERT CLERGERIE

SELECTED STORE IN SELFRIDGES: TIFFANY & CO P.45

RO W

GROSVEN OR STREET

● DUNHIL L

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Hotel

G U I D E | 81

New Bond Street OX FO R D ST R

EE T ZAR

F LA

BEL

●

EX ●N

T

OX FO R D ST RE

ET

NEW

TM

A●

IN LEW

S●

SO

SE O

S●

H

M

D ST

UT

P RO

IA N OV

BON

RD YFO ●B EEL T A T ●B ND S S ID A O F B O X● S EO N IN O ● L AT C H E TO R U DI ● IC R W V TENTERDEN STREET ● A S L E A C IN I TENTERDEN STREET BO U ● IB L ● B RAH P LO R TO ● A ●S H IS MEP 2 S● HAM P.2 B O N IA M S ● E TER IL L K W I A RM IY RE S● M IG BLE F LA E Y DW SE O ● LD SS LU O D I G U HOU RO BA ● ● G IR Y● ●O O IS R O M L E H AN OV ER ST R EET ANC B BROOK ST REET k E FR ELL & H ic ● 77 DIAMONDS IT S w ● en 3 ET RUS F MAR R C SE P.4 A R IA’S ANN O B T A G V IC ● E& RCH O LC DMA ●D ● A H IN B L A N C NI ANY T RMA ● IO A MON L L IE POR I FO M A L ● E L ● SS PI FO O RY O BO BROO K S M E W S NK YM ● BER HUG ZI USE E OL LA MUL O 9 H ● .3 E E P AG S H A T EL AR V W T N E U A IR LO RI SHO S A AT M AR A T CAR A ●N RI ● NE OH H E M ● Z IL E PI ● R ● C ● ● PA L I ● AL MA DD OX ST. CAN P.42 LLY ● THE BOX BOUTIQUE ● BA E M P E 2 ● GROSVEN OR STREET G .4 P ●W IT L IN H B R E L IA N I ● OAC A ● NE ●C SON EG N C O R U R C H ’S T YTH DO Z M H S C EE ● Y E G IL R E L TR MEN L R ● E A C ● IW TS AG AU X I R V L E E U OP ●D OT E ND FF ● A IN UBL S TA I ● ●H ONT CO GRO SV ENOR HILL BEL N NE F P O N S A M ● M IS P.43 CHA S● O ONG H IL IP I ● ●L CHO L SJ P MY BEL Z IL L Y ● AMP ● J IM I C MLE D FEN U C IE L & B R O T EN ●L L EE R E R U 2 S T BOURDO N S H L A S) ● RU S UA R ED P L ● SQ O R A IL D R E N ●D POL CH ● (C H BUR Y ERR IU ● O RY T M ● C URB IU I M ●B TO N N ’S E M ● TLE MÈS GEN HER ● EY L R A● TO N PE ST IA N ● V U IT TEM OP L TO N REET O U IS LOR H A N E D ST ●L BRU C ● R FOR D IO AND CLIF IA N ERL T Z IS W IT CHR OF S S E H S● L IP E AT C Berkeley Square ● W E K P H IL A D IE ’S L R O N ● AT E RCH ●P CHU BOUCH ONO G IS O ● E GR ●D REY ER L A S P RY ● D ●A ARD ● BER HOP B U R LG A RI ● C IR A BU GET ● O ●M P IA U S ● C LS RPE M A R TO N ● UET R EG EEF & A IN S F F ● ●B CL YW R● VA N F A R R U S S A IE D S ● E H ● G L LO N MO BAD R A F L A U R E B R U N E IN E L L I MON L ● ●G C LF & H S D IA C H A N E ● WO ● CU ALP NS ELE T R L E N ● RDE UM VA N GA C H A T IE R ● G TO CAR LES ● R L IN U D B B OO OTO ● O O ●● IM Y CH M IK R R IS ● O J IM MU B O U T IN M● ID M A O H V L DA IA N B E C K T IS C H R IC T O R IA V HOU

REE

TO OL

T

N

ST

RE

ET

DAVIE S ST R EET

NEW

BON

D ST

R EE

T

S AV

DAVIES STREET

IL E R

OW

P

M L IA W IL S O N ● & .106

NEW

BON

D ST

REE

T

D OV

ER S

T.

Restaurant

Place Of Interest

London Underground Station

Featured In This Issue

P.39

82 | G U I D E

Conduit Street & Old Bond Street T● G OA E R AS D ID KE O L IVE Y ● -3 A IYA ● Y SEY M EEN ● SW TCH ● ● IS SKE OTO A M J O H N● AM OS JI Y VAT YO H VA R AND B IE OM NE AV IL R H IE N ●C UE N V IV M A N ● A L IQ ARA SON D ●L AK OOD RNO ● SHE O ONN L HER WO ST W ● ETE ●D WE EST EY IE L N W K A N N E IL L IP I ●D HOC ER ● F IV IE ELL HI ● ● V B IA N A &P E BY FA R A R IG ROB ●F OLE ARD N IC ●W

CLARKS ●

ST R EE T

UI

ET

BAR OLO Y ●P ERR URB ●B

BUR

ILE R

OLD

G IE V

OW

EET

ELL

E ST

Cecco ni’s

●

U C IN

ARL

KES

LO C

ER M

H AW

STR

ES &

TO N

T

NEL

ALB

ET

R EE

BRU

K ST

TRE

L IN G

CO R

DS

ON

BON

IT ●K

N

S AV

OLD

ET TRE RD S S ● FFO N CLI ON & SO ORT

C H ’S

ND

RE

OUR ●F

● YS HEB S● SOT ARD N● DW ER E S S IA P E T TAT E O H IN O ● SC MO

CO

T TS

HUR ●C

M A DD OX

BREMONT Bremont and Jaguar have launched two new watch collaborations to cement their longstanding afliation. The watchmaker has produced six timepieces to complement six of Jaguar’s lightweight E-Type sports cars. Both the MKI and MKII are a celebration of the iconic Jaguar E-Type sports car which launched in 1961, and the watch faces are inspired by the car’s speedometer and tachometer.

The MK1 is slick and lightweight with a polished stainless steel case and the design of the rotor is a tribute to the E-Type’s steering wheel. The MKII also celebrates Jaguar’s heritage, bearing its heritage logo and also hour markings that refect the style of the numerals found on E-Type instruments. Both watches come with a 1960s-style racing strap in addition to a leather spare.

Bremont, 29 South Audley Street, London W1K 2PE, +44 (0)20 7493 5150, bremont.com * for map go to page 80

T

I●

REE

ENS A R D .45 O N GA M O P T G G IN RRA URL

E B RE F AT O A LV ●S EPH S O ●J IL A A H AT ● C X MAR er ● RG Dov eet PER ● MA M ● G E OE N S O N A A O J S t r r k e t CT U J A NE X ● R A DG A P ● TTE A ● Ma C A R R O L IS ● Z T B O E N E K AT TRE A AKR V ● IE L ●V OUL ARI IE N M I ● L E V N T ● H ● DA N E R L EC G I AE L L AT U R E L S M IT Burlington A EG A J C L C ● A T AU BU M E G N I Arcade S A IN ● P R E E T ●O ST IA CI ● RD AM F FO GUC RON ●D S S TA E K H A ● ANA ● D PERL A VA C N T IN ABB QUEEN A S TA U● ● L LCE & G MC CO N V ER T DO DER O● N ● A IN LEX ENT RE R● ●A VA L U LT T IE O D ’S - L E C O B CAR ●T B O● ER WE ETR A EG & J AL ● IN R OY Y APP ● R THE ADEM ●M ERS NDE ● E C A B A X DE A L E WA N G

TIFFAN Y & CO ● PAUL SMITH ● N E L ● CHA NY ● DK

OLD

T

ET

R EE

TRE

D ST

ER S

BON

D OV

PIC

CAD

The Wolseley

I L LY

ARL ING TO N

YN S

TREE

T

STR .

Le Caprice

JER M

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

S H O P | 83

Regent Street

TIMOTHY EVEREST

GR EAT C ASTLE STREET

LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN

H&M ●

● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ● LONGCHAMP ●

● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS

MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●

● H&M

●

G R E AT

H OROUG MARLB Liberty

● DESIGUAL ● GAP

STR EE

T

FO

UB

ERT

'S P

L AC

E

● JAEGER

T

Featured In This Issue

REE

● JUICY COUTURE

Y ST

● HAMLEYS

NAB

REET

● KURT GEIGER

CAR

NT ST

London Underground Station

U TU M

● COS

R EG E

FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●

A SC ● AQ U U B LI C

A R EP BANAN

GANT ●

Place Of Interest

RE ET

● OMEGA

CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●

Restaurant

OX FO RD ST

● TEZENIS

REGENT STREE T

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

● HOUSE OF HANOVER

Timothy Everest’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection contains all the essentials for the modern man’s wardrobe.

The 25-piece collection celebrates 25 years of the brand and highlights include classic parkas reworked in woodland camoufage British Millerain fabric, in addition to wardrobe staples such as lightweight, stylish travel macs, tapered selvedge jeans and Oxford shirts available in super-soft Japanese chambray.

Timothy Everest, 35 Bruton Place, London W1J 6NS, +44 (0)20 7629 6236, timothyeverest.co.uk * for map go to page 80

84 | G U I D E

Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS

MOLESKINE ●

● ESPRIT ● LEVI’S

Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu

● REISS

R EG E

LE R OW

CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

BEA

ET

ILE R

RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY

OW

● TM LEWIN

PENHALIGON’S ●

● FOLLI FOLLIE

TOYWATCH ●

P.40

ET

S AV

TRE

● MAPPIN & WEBB

ZARA HOME ●

TRE

HN S

GODIVA ●

● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO

BURBERRY ●

BR

EW

ER

ST

RE

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

ET

D YAR HAM

FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE

● AUSTIN REED ● WOLFORD ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS CLARKS ● ● UNIQLO ● LUSH LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● COACH REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

SH

OU

SE

ST

DENMAN STREET

RE

ET

UGG ● AUSTRALIA

● NESPRESSO ● LOTUS

R EGE

B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T AR D●

STR E ET

YA L RO

P IC C A

NT STREET

PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus ● LILLYWHITES

D IL LY

OSPR

ALFR ED DU

TR EE

T

R R EG

L●

I●

ENT S

DUK

R AY HN B DSON ● JO & HU R V IE ● HA EEN ST D GR OND B D WA R ● ED OR OF OL YL EY K & ● TA D IT C H ET ● H IL g li n o ’sU RY S T R E B Qua R ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O ● CR HAMP C ’S ● DU IC K E R L IS IL ● TR MA W ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES

R EE T

YN S

EY ●

LO W E

JER M

N H IL

BOGG

OD ● GWO & L IN ● NEW OOK URBR ● FAV O TO N S ● W IL CASE ORE ● M SL AD N● ESTO JM W ● C O ’S FR AN T TA ● BERE

YN ST

AS

’S DON WLEY ● RO E T TS LON M ● EM S NE ● JO OF T IG E R E D E N ’S ● SW U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H ● ● EA R T IN A LA MA L E W IN ● TM NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU LEY R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D DRO F F IE L D KS O ● LLA ● L IN O N & W H IT S XT JO N E ● PA TT & RLES OCKE ● CR K CHA D E R IC ● RO O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CKE T & KE ● ● HA IT C H EN H IL D K SON BARK E ● ● P IN ER & AK FOST IS T D SPE R ● WS H AN & CU H C Z EC WES N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST

n

rcade

P.44

Maso

ess A

um &

P r in c

Fo r t n

V IL LE

● MR HARE

JER M

HOLLISTER ● Café HUNTER ● Royal

S AC K

THE LEFT SHOE COMPANY

GL

C MAR AMPO Z IO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW CU ES & T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE:

DENM AN PL

VIGO STR EE T

ORLEBAR BROWN ●

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

P.88

ES S

E R JO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

SWAROVSKI ●

AM

LOW

● TIMBERLAND

OXFORDS ●

ER J

● BROOKS BROTHERS

R EE T

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

.

K ST

● PIQUADRO

LOW

NT ST

L’OCCITANE ●

ACE

S AV I

● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI

EE

TR EE

E STR

CH A R

T

S T JA

St James’s Square

LE S II

STR E

ET

● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD

K IN G

ST R E

ET

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

G U I D E | 85

Brompton Road

RO X

N RO AD

●

KENSINGTON ROA D

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

BU RB RY

RO

ST RE ET

ON

T RE E L ST HAE RAP

PA

RI

●

E

BA SIL ST RE ET

●

●

EN

ST

●

P

●

●

●

RO AD

LLADRO VERTU ATELIER DES ORS

HA

NS

P.38

ET

RE ST

BA

NC T EE

LA

CE

TR

S LE AR CH

T

PP

CA

RO

LI

N

E

AM

NS

CH

●

PO

AU

LT O

EM

ER

JO

●

O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI

●

R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU

BE

WA

●

CT

Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●

●

●

NI

S ROAD

S IL

O

HAN

●

AN

YA

N HI

PONT S ● SKANDIUM

Place Of Interest

● JOSEPH

DM

Restaurant

CH

T R EE T

P.86

London Underground Station

AR

Hotel

C R ESCENT

N RO AD

IC

ds

O PAV IL LI

●

PH

ro

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS:

S

●

●

LI

PT

RA

S

S

CO

FS

CO

LU

HO

S

●

R

●

O

ar

ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS ● PA N G O ● S U KO E S S N R PI SP S IS RE

HA N

AD

NE

IG

OM

RD

ST

M

BR

DI

O

LA

S

L

DO

L TA

UT RA

RO

●

ST

VI

BR

ON

AU

RE

●

CA E AC PL AL EV H C

G

OM

CA

&

PS

ES

TE TA

&

O OG

PT

GU

ES

G

LD

BI

O

R

GE

M

KA

PT

JA

NG

ACE

DS

TE

L

REET

PY ● RA S HE TE AT I A M C O SO AR AS

O BR

ON

TO

L OT P CEL

O

ES

W

NA

L

CH

O

ELIER ST

EL IE R P

TS

TI NA

RE ET

MONTP

N S ST M ON TP

●

H&

UG

● N ● BA M IL ● L K L LY LE ● EC B E N C N G ● AN O NE A TT ● C T C ● BA ES ● PO SL SO ● BA RS ER RI ZE ● WA R K C H ● TO T E E ● TH M CH R DES ● MA E K MY ES IG N ● K S O H OF ● T E U TC SI M O P I L F SW ● RU D B HIN O D LES IGE IT R ZE Z A SS AK S U RL R A EL ER KY T T I L AN & D KNIGHTSBRIDGE B R O ● F M EA LE TH Y ER H S

BA

LAN

RR

RO CO

ST ER LI

R PL

HA

T R E VO

WAL K

●

AD

VENTURE ● PHOTOGRAPHY

●

TR EV OR

TREVOR PL

PE LI ER

●

ER

Bulgari Hotel

MONT

HARVEY NICHOLS ●

LE

K EN SI NG TO

LI

A

86 | G U I D E

JOSEPH Joseph is one of London’s best-known fashion names. Joseph Ettedgui sourced international womenswear labels that were hard to fnd when he launched his eponymous boutique in Chelsea towards the end of the 1960s. He championed then up-and-coming designers such as Azzedine Alaïa and Yohji Yamamoto, and his boutique was the frst store in London to sell Prada.

His own label also met with great success.

Now under the creative direction of Louise Trotter, the range ofers luxury essentials with a strong contemporary spin. This season’s collection combines textured, untreated fabrics with luxe materials such as ultra-fne cashmere and georgette silk.

Sloane Street North

Joseph, 77 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RE, +44 (0)20 7823 9500, joseph-fashion.com * for map go to page 85

Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CADOGAN PLACE

Harvey Nichols BOODLES ● KID SPACE ●

● PINK ELL IS STREET

● GARRARD C A DO G A N G A R DEN

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● TOM FORD ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● MONCLER ● ESCADA ● MISSONI ● LOUIS VUITTON

ANNE FONTAINE ●

● ROGER VIVIER

● CHANEL ● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK

CADOGA N PLACE

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

KIN

G’ S

Colbe rt

RD

Department Store

SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S

● EMILIO PUCCI

LARA B OHNIC PICKETT N PEAL CASSANDRA GOAD

● HUGO BOSS

● SAINT LAURENT

● MAJE ● ● ● ●

LOW ER SLOANE STREET

● VALENTINO

SLOA NE TERRACE

● PICKETT

Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE

● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA

LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

WILBR AHA M P L .

● CHLOÉ ● MONTBLANC ● JO MALONE

SY MONS STR EE T

● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS

PRADA ●

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ●

● BULGARI

AMOUAGE ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

● HERMÈS

L O W N D E S S T.

TOD’S ●

● FENDI

SLOANE STREET

JIMMY CHOO ●

● VERSACE

PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS

LINKS OF LONDON ● PETER JONES ●

● MIU MIU

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●

A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL

GUCCI ●

SS

● BERLUTI ● GINA

RU

JOSEPH ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

Lowndes Square

HARRIET ST.

BONPOINT ●

MARNI ● GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ● MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●

LES PETITES ● MARIE CHANTAL ● PAUL & JOE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

T EE TR

LS

SI

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

KIK

BA

● SERGIO ROSSI

SLOANE STREET

SHANGHAI TANG ● OMEGA ● DOLCE & GABANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● MICHAEL KORS ● BILLIONAIRE ● HOGAN ● GRAFF ●

SLOANE STREET

MCM ● H&M ●

● ● ● ●

S

Place Of Interest

G U I D E | 87

ELISKÁ

PHOTO: STEPHEN FRAK

Interior designer Eliská Sapera is known for her ability to mix contemporary style with antique fnds and, at her Eliská boutique, the rest of us can learn how to do this too.

The elegant Mayfair boutique ofers bespoke pieces alongside the Eliská range of scented candles, cosy cashmere throws and fabulous bed linen, in addition to striking pieces sourced internationally. Those looking for an interior overhaul will be pleased to learn that Sapera also ofers a complete design service.

Eliská, 16A New Quebec Street, London W1H 7RU, +44 (0)20 7723 5521, eliskadesign.com

Redchurch Street C A LV ● START

ERT A VENU

E

C A LV

ERT A V EN U

E

SH

EE T

Shopping Centre

LABOUR & WAIT ●

N RO

T

STRE

● URBAN INTERIOR

AD

S C L AT E

Boxpark

London Underground Station

URCH

Restaurant

R STREE T

Bar

ET

T

ST R EE

ROW

T

GREE

R EE T

CLU B

STR EE

STR

AL BETHN

STRE

TR EE

CATCH & RELEASE ●

EBOR

S H O R E D I TC H H I GH

THOR & WHISTLE ● W HI T BY

HOL ST

R EDCH

THE GALLERY ●

Owl & the Pussycat

F IE L D

RE S

W NOBLE LEATHERWARE ●

HOSTEM ●

STR EE T

SHOREDITCH HOUSE

TC L A

B RO

EET

Albion

Boundary

SUNSPEL ● AIMÉ ● APC ●

MAISON TROIS GARCONS ●

ET

STR EE T

STR E

LIG ON IER STR

IGH

C LU

HH CARHARTT ●

MON

I TC

B O U N DA RY

ED

S WA N

OR R EDCHU RCH

OLD NIC

ET

88 | G U I D E

L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON Located in the heart of London’s theatreland, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon ofers dramatic entertainment in its own right. The restaurant spans three foors, complete with a bar and a secluded roof-top terrace. Opt for a table at the counter which surrounds the open kitchen and watch as the chefs prepare a gourmet meal that’s guaranteed to be one to remember, using the best ingredients possible.

The restaurant specialises in a contemporary take on French classics; favourites include a perfectly poached egg enveloped in rice batter and served with caviar, as well as quail stufed with foie gras and served with unbelievably smooth and creamy mashed potatoes.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 13-15 West Street, London WC2H 9NE, +44 (0)20 7010 8600, joelrobuchon.co.uk * for map go to page 84

Ledbury Road

E&O

VINE CO L

TER

R AC

E ART ESI AN ROA D ● PENOLOPE CHILVERS

● JW BEETON

ANYA HINDMARCH ● MR HARE ●

ILLE

● MELISSA ODABASH

R OA

WEST

D

O

EG

RO

● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●

NE GR

VE

RY RO

TB

N UR

BOUR

OV E

LEDBU

Beach Blanket Babylon

AD

S WE

OA D

Otolenghi

HAM R

ROA D

● I LOVE GORGEOUS

AD

DA L E

● ECONE

RY R O

COV

LO N S

● MATCHES

N EE D

LEDBU

TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●

DE

FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●

● PETIT AIME

CH

EP

O ST

NB

IG HR OA

S

D

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Café

W

VIL

LA

S

G U I D E | 89

TEMPERLEY LONDON Glamorous yet bohemian with a distinctly British feel, there’s a lot to like about Temperley London. This season’s collection draws its inspiration from a variety of sources, including nomadic tribes and 1920s Paul Poiret designs. Expect a deliciously warm colour palette and layered silhouettes which lend Temperley’s signature stitchwork and bold foral prints a pleasingly efortless appeal. Accessories such as scarves and androgynous evening slippers complete this nonchalantly alluring look.

Temperley London, 6-7 Colville Mews, Lonsdale Road, London W11 2DA, +44 (0)20 7229 7957, temperleylondon.com

Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road P IP PA

The Ledbury

SMAL

TER

R

ART ESI AN ROA D

EWS

N●

NB

IG

HR

Featured In This Issue

SOO

DE

Place Of Interest

AD L AC Y RY R O LEDBU

E

BOUR

NE GR

OV E

o SHOP GE N er & C IV IN G G ra n g L IV IN G & GD C A F E L O U E AN R Y 'S ORE ● M A B O U T IQ U S H O E S T L ● P E T N AT U R A E ● TH NOS ● N A IS T L E S ● WH RA O ● BR ODHOUSE ● WO ST A ● T O T IL O N ● V E T YQ U E ● D IPN P O IN T ● BO BADE E RY ● AU GALL

rd

WALL ● LANNA ●

OV

NS ITE S TIO OP WH IER ES Y & X RIA NN ● AN AV N M A & VA E N O T O ● EO E S AU R E S C ● LT H E MP H L I R D G ● A L P TO L A N ● RC O M M E T ● HEL D ● OA

B

GR

EN ●S

ST

NE

MON

ORLE

y le s f o

D

ALL M

R OA

Da ● HSON SMY T ES ● S PER JA M E ARA ● MA XM T● NNET ● LK BE TO M S D● A N K IN ● PH JO S E

7 FOR

ILLE

WE

R OU

WEST

OA D

ROA D

E● W E LV T Y8 T T● T WEN IE R L O D IE P ● CL AU K L E IN H E ID I ● HERS F E AT

DA L E

R OA D

COV

LO N S

HAM R

EM

N EE D

●

V IL L CO L

RY RO ● LEDBU SAN D E ● TA IR & VO L .. . ● Z A D IG S P E T IT E S ● FT LE O L LS ● & W IL A U B IN JI G S AW ● ● M A JE I● B R IS S ● ES OOPL THE K Y HALL ● D IN N 202 ● ● ROW N BAR B

DON

RS ●

Y LON

ELLE

ERLE

L JE W

TEMP

VINE CO L

ACE

CH

EP

S

W TO

VIL

LA

S

90 | G U I D E

MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: ROLAND MOURET French born London based designer Roland Mouret is known for his ability to create beautiful, sensual garments that fit and flatter women, including the famous Galaxy and Moon dresses. His pieces have been known to sell out within hours of going on sale. His first standalone store, which opened in 2011, is located on Carlos Place in London’s exclusive Mayfair district. He shares his neighbourhood favourites with Ximena Daneri rolandmouret.com

‘I love London, particularly Mayfair. You feel as though you are on the set of a movie, with the grandeur of the Connaught Hotel * p.80, fancy cars, and of course my store at 8 Carlos Place * p.80 in the heart of it all.

‘I love Solange Azagury-Partridge * p.80 and Jessica McCormack * p.80 for their impeccable taste. Their stores are near mine and it’s refreshing having neighbours with such a strong sense of identity. With the new Céline * p.80 store on Mount Street, and soon the addition of Dior and Saint Laurent, it’s a very exciting time for the area.

‘My local secrets? Mount Street Deli

* p.80 does the best takeaway in Mayfair.

Mount Street Gardens is a hidden gem tucked away just behind the street itself.

Also, try Robert Clergerie * p.80 on Wigmore Street for men’s shoes.

I am most likely to be found at Little House. It is the best place for business meetings and, of course, a drink with friends. I do breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner at The Beaumont * p.80. I’m a creature of habit and I never feel bored there.

‘When friends visit, I always think a

Above: Roland Mouret, Jessica McCormack and Solange Azagury-Partridge stores on Carlos Place

PHOTO: JAKE FITZJONES

PHOTO: © JOHN OFFENBACH

S H O P | 91

visit to the Serpentine Galleries * p.78 in Hyde Park is a nice way to introduce people to the amazing city. My favourite walk in London is along the Thames on the South Bank. I go from the London Eye to Borough market. Great views can be found crossing any bridge along the Thames. Each one gives you a unique perspective of London.

‘My tips for exploring London? Don’t be frightened to cross Regent Street – there is a nice lifestyle in Soho. And always use London’s black cabs. They ofer the best cab service in the world.’

Above (clockwise from top): the Serpentine Gallery; The Mount Street Deli; Roland Mouret store interior; Robert Clergerie boutique

92 | G U I D E

BICESTER VILLAGE Located just an hour from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading luxury brands and up-andcoming labels. The architectural design refects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday: 9am-8pm Sunday: 10am-7pm*

DON’T MISS… Shopping Day Experience This exclusive package includes: • Return tickets on the Shopping Express® luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village • A VIP Card providing additional savings in participating boutiques • Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later • A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or Carluccio’s • £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in the boutiques of your choice

NEW OPENINGS

*On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.

Hunter

SERVICES

The Hunter brand, established in 1856, holds royal warrants from both the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. Discover the Hunter Original and Hunter Field collections in the Bicester Village boutique.

The suite of services ofered includes the award-winning Bicester Visitor Centre, valet parking, a children’s play area, personal stylists, Hands-Free Shopping, a contemplation room, a money-changing facility and instant tax refunds.

globalblue.com

Balenciaga French fashion house Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who opened his frst boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1918, and established his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1936.

S H O P | 93

PERFECT DAY

Global Blue’s menswear reporter Ruairidh Pritchard describes how he would spend a perfect day at Bicester Village

HOW TO GET THERE

By Train

10am Two trains an hour run from London Marylebone to Bicester Village station.

The journey can take as little as 46 minutes.

Alternatively, four train services an hour run from Marylebone to Bicester North station, where the Bicester Village shuttle bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.

11am

1pm

By Shopping Express®

Be sure to stop at Tag Heuer, purveyor of some of the fnest Swiss timepieces and the perfect place to pick up some new wristwear.

Stop for lunch at Farmshop. This all-day dining destination from Soho House & Co has been created exclusively for Bicester Village.

5pm

3pm

End your day at Anya Hindmarch. The designer’s colourful and quirky handbags have made her a hit among the fashion set.

A modern American luxury brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style.

The Shopping Express® is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December Ticket prices: Adult return £28 Child return £23 (up to 15 years of age)

By Car

The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.

PHOTO: DIONNE HÉLÈNE

Start your day at Mulberry, a quintessentially British brand with a reputation for balancing creativity and modernity with the traditions of leather craft and manufacture.

Mulberry inspires and delights customers across the world.

94

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Ofce details: London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfeld London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL Topshop, 536-540 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LS Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 99 / 103

102

95

TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 48: Top Coat

Одежда высшего уровня Карен Мюннис рассказывает о классической модели пальто – дафлкот, которая в этом сезоне представлена в самых разных версиях, от решительного ретро до подчеркнутой актуальности Зимний дафлкот остается такой же классикой моды, как и весенний тренч. В этом сезоне многие дизайнеры вдохновлялись прошлыми десятилетиями, чтобы включить в свои коллекции это пальто в стиле унисекс, в котором функция органично сочетается с модой. Принято считать, что оно получило свое название в честь бельгийского города Дюффеля, где раньше производилась плотная шерстяная ткань. Однако сам дизайн модели, с его знаменитым большим капюшоном и продолговатыми пуговицами, – истинно английский. В конце 19 века производством таких курток занималась компания Джона Партриджа, которая специализировалась на рабочей одежде и работала в городке Рагли в Стаффордшире. В начале 20 века такие пальто из верблюжьей шерсти использовали служащие британского военно-морского флота, спасаясь от суровых условий в море. Свободный крой и объемные капюшоны отлично подходили для того, чтобы надевать пальто поверх униформы и фуражки. Модель даже получила неформальное название Монти – в честь фельдмаршала Монтгомери, которого команда узнавала издалека по характерной верхней одежде. Продажи излишков военной формы гражданскому населению сделали дафлкот популярным: в 1950-60-е он плотно вошел в повседневные гардеробы. Его ценителем globalblue.com

был, в частности, Жан Кокто – он носил белое пальто. Продолговатые деревянные пуговицы и большие капюшоны стали появляться и в детской одежде: например, Медвежонок Паддингтон носит синий дафлкот. Эту моду не могли пропустить в музыкальной индустрии, и группа Belle and Sebastian из Глазго отлично это иллюстрирует. А на обложке сингла Oasis 1995 года Roll With It все музыканты позируют именно в таких черных пальто. Британская компания Gloverall приобрела военную партию дафлкотов, а в 1954 году открыла собственное производство, которым продолжает заниматься по сей день. Что же обеспечивает непреходящую популярность этой модели? «Все дело в форме и функциональности. Это полупальто завоевало статус культовой британской одежды и неотъемлемой части гардероба. И это неудивительно: в любой сезон оно смотрится непринужденно стильно, а также безупречно справляется с задачей сохранять сухость и тепло, когда погода портится», – утверждает Марк Смит, директор по маркетингу и продажам. Как и в случае с тренчем, сама модель не утрачивает привлекательности с течением времени благодаря двум качествам – удобству и способности согревать. Работая над другими предметами гардероба, дизайнеры Gloverall продолжают использовать классические элементы дафлкота. «Деревянные или костяные продолговатые пуговицы и петли из веревки или кожи узнаваемы и используются во всей нашей Classic Collection. Это пальто остается неизменным эталоном любой нашей куртки – настолько совершенна ее функциональность зимой. Поэтому, даже более тонкие модели обладают схожими техническими свойствами, поэтому способны защищать от стихии, не теряя стильного облика», – утверждает Смит. Источником вдохновения для

96

Gloverall к сезону осень/зима 2015/16 стали исторические спортивные состязания. Так, компания обратилась к архивным черно-белым фотографиям Тони Брукса, гонщика британской Формулы-1 1950-х, где он позирует в классическом пальто Монти. В результате объемные шерстяные модели получили несколько более облегающие формы и отделку аппликациями на тему гонок. Это далеко не единственный бренд, который ищет в прошлом вдохновение для новых вариаций на тему дафлкота. Британская марка Ben Sherman в коллекции осень/зима 2015/16 также занялась переосмыслением этой классической модели. «Мы изучали одежду, которая была бы связана с британской молодежной культурой, – делится Марк Уилльмс, возглавляющий отдел дизайна в Ben Sherman. – Если надеть это пальто поверх блейзера, получится новая шерстяная парка, которая продвигает классический стиляжий силуэт». Приобретает дафлкот и современный облик в этом сезоне. Так, в своей коллекции Raf дизайнер мужской одежды Кристофер Рэберн представил обновленную версию – стеганый дафлкот из высококачественного итальянского нейлона с мрачноватым ржавым принтом. Дизайнеры женской одежды также активно адаптируют классический силуэт. Свою коллекцию осень/зима 2015/16 Мэри Катранзу охарактеризовала так: «историческая роскошь в противоположность техногенной утопии». Во время ее презентации модели выходили на подиум в туфлях на высоких каблуках, плотных цветных колготках и дафлкотах, украшенных ее фирменными яркими принтами. Дафлкот выдерживает современные преобразования столь же непринужденно, как и более востребованные отсылки к ретро. Немногие пальто способны так легко приспосабливаться к запросам времени. gloverall.com, bensherman.com, christopherraeburn.co.uk, marykatrantzou.com globalblue.com

54: A Very British Wit

Британское Остроумие Дизайнерский бренд Lulu Guinness, известный своим культовым клатчем Lips, отмечает 25 лет со дня основания. Фрэнсис Васим берет интервью у озорного и типично британского дизайнера марки В этом году Lulu Guinness отметил свой 25-летний стаж в индустрии британской моды. Это серьезное достижение для индустрии, в которой многие молодые дизайнеры с трудом выдерживают конкуренцию. Еще большую значимость придает этому событию тот факт, что в основе серии аксессуаров дизайнера лежала мимолетная идея и желание «сделать что-то выдающееся и заработать миллион». В конце 1980-х, когда в моду входили большие подплечники, а на улицах появлялось все больше предпринимательниц, образ Мелани Гриффит в фильме «Деловая женщина» стал идеалом для целого поколения представительниц прекрасного пола. Портфель Lulu Guinness был предназначен как раз для такой женщины. «Это была просто идея, а не бренд», поясняет изящный дизайнер с алой помадой на губах (помада, конечно же, Mac Ruby Woo). «Никто не занимался созданием женских аксессуаров. Персональный органайзер Filofax в то время заменял мобильный телефон и ноутбук. Я просто обожала свой Filofax, и портфель был его идеальным дополнением». Вскоре Лулу Гиннесс вышла замуж, и ей хотелось скорее покончить с киноиндустрией и перейти на работу из дома. «И конечно заработать миллион, как принято было говорить в те дни. Сейчас, конечно, уже хочется миллиард», – шутит она. Одним из ее даров было умение предвидеть тенденции. Ее портфель был одним из первых в своем роде аксессуаров для деловых женщин. «Я использовала самую дорогую кожу. Там было отделение для зонтика, а также для ключей. Подкладка была из красной или фиолетовой замши», – вспоминает Гиннесс. Эта сумка стала «лучшим стейтмент-аксессуаром всех времен».

97

Так, блестящая идея помогла дизайнеру получить грант от Британского совета моды. Гиннесс хорошо помнит свой первый шоу-показ в рамках Лондонской Недели моды в 1991 году. «Я была на восьмом месяце беременности и Аня Хиндмарч подошла меня поприветствовать». Дизайнер славится своим озорным поведением, нашедшим проявление в ее творчестве. В ее работах проглядывается влияние Эльзы Скиапарелли и Сальвадора Дали, а коллекции изобилуют элементами из различных жанров искусства, включая иллюстрацию, архитектуру и дизайн мебели. «Я хоть и дизайнер, но у меня есть свое мнение, не зависящее от трендов, – подчеркивает она. – Я бы никогда не поместила на сумку бахрому, только потому, что так сейчас модно». Философия бренда отражает личность самого дизайнера – она утонченна, остроумна и необычайно женственна. «Качество не менее важно для меня, – продолжает она. – Я использую лишь роскошную кожу и отделку. Мне хочется, что бы моя сумка выглядела на £600, при стоимости в £300. Когда люди покупают наши сумки, то платят за кожу и работу, а не за рекламную кампанию наших 27 магазинов». Коллекции Lulu Guinness можно встретить по всему миру, особенно в Азии, Италии и Великобритании. Ежегодный оборот компании насчитывает 10 миллионов фунтов. Свой бизнес она основала в подвале дома, в котором она до сих пор живет и работает. «В самом начале я занималась всем сама, начиная с заполнения документации и заканчивая упаковкой изделий», – вспоминает она. Серьезный прогресс наступил после того, как лондонский Музей Виктории и Альберта поместил изображение одной из ее корзин с розами на плакат, посвященный выставке «50 лет моды». «Моя корзина с розами появилась на рекламе размером с дом. Это событие сыграло решающую роль в моей карьере, поскольку привлекло внимание публики, – говорит Гиннесс. – Не прошло и недели, как у моего дома стали парковаться Роллс-Ройсы с личными шаферами. Модели

и разного рода знаменитости, включая Джерри Холла, приезжали в западную часть Лондона, чтобы встретиться со мной». Спустя 25 лет лица многих знаменитостей могли измениться, однако философия дизайна осталась прежней. Кейт Мосс, Алекса Чанг, Палома Фейт, Хелена Бонэм Картер – все они являются поклонниками сумок Гиннесс (особенно тех, что имеют форму губ). После замужества дизайнер взяла фамилию, которая знакома каждому англичанину, но помогла ли она ей завоевать популярность? «В самом начале я решила использовать в качестве логотипа имя “Lulu”, – говорит дизайнер.

– Фамилию “Guinness” я специально попросила убрать, чтобы посмотреть, смогу ли я добиться успеха без ассоциаций с другими брендами». Очевидно, у нее все получилось, и сейчас Гиннесс является почетным членом британского модного сообщества. «Британские дизайнеры очень чувствительны и уязвимы, однако теперь, когда коммерческая сторона дела не отстает от креативной, нас никто не может ни в чем обвинять». Коллекция Lulu Guinness осеньзима 2015/16 преисполнена английского остроумия и энергичности. Фраза «A little lipstick never hurts» вышита на украшенных пайетками черных клатчах, а на остальных моделях сумок уже который сезон подряд красуются самые разные лица. «Мне особо нравится наш дизайн “tape face”, – говорит Лулу. – Он был создан под вдохновением от работ Дональда Дроубертсона – креативного директора Bobbi Brown». Удивительно, как спустя столько лет дизайнер не теряет своей актуальности. «Все дело в наблюдательности; мне очень нравятся социологические тренды. Также необходимо иметь недюжинное терпение и быть немного безумным. В тяжелые дни я порой думаю: “Что же я делаю? Я слишком стара для этого” – а в хорошие дни наоборот: “Боже мой, в нашем офисе трудятся 40 человек и все из-за моих идей” – это приводит меня в восторг». luluguinness.com

98

60: Show Of Hands

Ловкость рук Самые интересные дизайнеры Лондона активно осваивают ремесленные приемы и демонстрируют потрясающие результаты. Харриет Куик рассказывает о том, как уважаемые бренды обратились к хэндмейду и крафту Пока модная индустрия предлагает нам один тренд за другим, все более заметным становится еще одно небольшое, но весьма изысканное явление в сфере роскоши. Все чаще лондонские дизайнеры обращаются к ремесленникам и применяют ремесленные техники, чтобы задействовать аутентичность, естественность и красоту профессионального хэндмейда. В модном контексте ручное творчество оказывается изысканным, а его влияние проявляется в самых разных формах: изящное кружево, авторский пэчворк, тюль, флок и выжженный бархат. Все это придает коллекциям осень/зима 2015/16 особую тактильность и неповторимую эстетику. Кристофер Кейн, один из ведущих трендсеттеров Лондона, поймал искру вдохновения во время урока рисования с натуры, который он организовал для своей команды в студии на востоке Лондона. Автор объясняет это так: «Как только эти красивые рисунки проявились, я решил собрать силуэты в узор таким образом, чтобы можно было увидеть руку или часть торса, и чтобы фигуры на изображениях обнимали друг друга, трогали или стремились это сделать». Чтобы эффект был идеальным, Кейн обратился в швейцарское ателье кружева, где работают высококлассные специалисты. Авангардная певица и стильная звезда FKA Twigs одной из первых примерила чувственный наряд Кейна, чем вызвала массу разговоров на Met Gala и спровоцировала поток предзаказов. Изысканность ручной работы не осталась незамеченной и Кристофером Бейли, который назвал свою коллекцию для Burberry “Patchwork, Pattern and Prints” («Печворк, узоры и принты»). В globalblue.com

ней прослеживается отсылка ко всеми любимому в этом сезоне стилю 1970-х. Каждый предмет гардероба демонстрирует разнообразные техники: аппликация, художественные швы, индийская зеркальная вышивка, ручная печать и вязаная отделка. Неуловимое соединение деталей, принтов и богатых оттенков оказалось завораживающим. Сарафаны с тесьмой и замшевые тренчи с цветочным принтом, конечно, уходят своими корнями в хиппи-коммуны 70-х. Тем не менее, 2015 год обозначил вкус к особой, созданной мастерами роскоши, а также, по всей видимости, попрощался с сияющей и нагруженной логотипами пышностью. Нарастающий интерес к декоративным ремеслам, кажется, близок британской ментальности. Ведь именно в Англии родился Уилльям Моррис – зачинатель движения Arts and Crafs Movement, которое пришлось на поздний викторианский период. Моррис прославился своей решительной уверенностью в превосходстве ремесленничества над индустриальностью. Выставки William Morris Gallery демонстрируют плоды его деятельной увлеченности этой идеей. Модный дом Alexander McQueen многие годы поддерживает британские ремесла. Креативный директор Сара Бертон и ее команда находится в постоянном поиске с самыми разными специалистами: их интересует и перьевая вышивка, и шорные изделия, и бронзовое литье, и даже плюмаж для Королевской конной гвардии. Для новой коллекции марки Бертон придумала необычные цветочные формы в объеме из тюля, выработанного вручную и собранного в скульптурные силуэты. Эти изысканные вечерние платья были созданы под вдохновением от фотографий увядающих роз, снятых Дэвидом Симсом. Кожа и тюль образовали изысканную мозаику в корсетах, напоминающих клетки, а искусственно состаренное кружево восхитительно смотрелось в вечерних платьях. В природе не бывает «совершенства», и эта коллекция – хвалебная песнь Бертон красоте неидеальности.

99

Дизайнер Микаэль ван дер Хам также сосредоточен на поиске удачных сочетаний в ремесленных техниках. Получив магистерскую степень в Central Saint Martins в 2009 году, он сделал бриколаж и пэчворк основой своего творчества. «Мне нравится так много разных тканей и вышивок, что я хочу использовать их все разом», – делится он своими ощущениями. Дизайнер соединяет разные цвета и текстуры роскошных тканей ручной работы, играет ими, создавая свои художественные платья. Микаэль ван дер Хам открыл сервис полукутюр в своей студии в лондонском Хакни, и одной из первых его клиенток стала актриса Хелена Бонем Картер.

Erdem также входит в число передовых брендов, интересующихся ремеслами в сфере моды. Для показа коллекции осень/ зима 2015/16 дизайнер Эрдем Моралиоглу воссоздал комнаты в стиле 1960-х, наполнив их характерными для того времени предметами. Подобно персонажам пьесы, модели проходили сквозь эти пространства в платьях с корсажами из богатых жаккардовых тканей с необработанными краями. Это сочетание роскоши с небрежностью не только очаровательно аристократично. Оно повествует о ручном творчестве, объединяющем прагматизм и страсть. Бренд Mulberry увлекся изучением интерьерного декора периода королей Георгов, обратив внимание на лепнину, каменную кладку и плиточные панели. Они стали источником вдохновения для тактильно насыщенной коллекции, в которую вошли твидовые пальто с рельефным эффектом, напоминающие лепнину, и короткие юбки из шелкового жаккарда. Всегда интересно попытаться представить новую коллекцию в какомнибудь интересном месте. Мы думаем, что Lover’s Lace Кристофера Кейна живописно смотрелось бы на фоне саркофагов в Музее Виктории и Альберта, а великолепное лоскутное шитье Burberry прекрасно подходит духу нового Музея сэра Джона Соуна – сокровищнице антиквариата и декоративного искусства. Культурно

значимая мода всегда вознаграждается сторицей. christopherkane.com, burberry.com, alexandermcqueen.com, michaelvanderham.com, erdem.com, mulberry.com 94: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

100

美文翻译

48: Top Coat 顶级大衣 本季的Dufel粗呢大衣造型百变，无论鲜明的复古 风格还是十足的摩登气质，都将这一经典款式完美 诠释，Karen Munnis如是说 和春天的风衣一样，风格多变、男女皆宜的冬 款粗呢Dufel大衣也是广受青睐的经典款式之 一。2015/16年秋冬季，众多设计师放眼往昔汲取 灵感，打造出多款集实用功能与时尚气质于一身的 Dufel大衣。 传说这款大衣得名于比利时小镇迪弗尔 （Dufel）和当地盛产的厚羊毛面料；但其标 志性的阔兜帽与牛角扣设计，却是地道的英伦 特色。 19世纪末， Dufel大衣发轫于斯塔福 德郡（Stafordshire）。早期款式由鲁吉利镇 （Rugeley）的John Partridge工装公司出品，到20 世纪初首获英国海军部队的广泛青睐。宽松的剪裁 和敞阔的兜帽与制服、军帽完美适配，而骆驼皮革 制成的Dufel大衣更能帮士兵们抵挡海上的烈日刚 风。后来，为了让麾下将士一眼认出自己，连陆军元 帅蒙哥马利（Field Marshal Montgomery）也穿上 了Dufel大衣，而这种大衣也因而被昵称为“蒙帝大 衣（Monty）”。 富余的军供大衣一经外销即广获热捧。二十世 纪五、六十年代，Dufel大衣成为了风靡各地的衣 橱明星，最爱白色Dufel的诗人让·谷克多（ Jean Cocteau）亦是拥趸之一。童装大衣上也加入了牛角 扣与阔兜帽设计，连帕丁顿熊也穿上了一件蓝色的 Dufel大衣。格拉斯哥乐队Belle & Sebastian等音 乐界人士同样钟爱Dufel，1995年，Oasis 乐队甚至 在单曲《Roll With It》的光碟封面上全员穿着黑色 Dufel亮相。 战后，英国品牌 Gloverall 购买了一大批军用 Dufel大衣，并于1954年开始自产新版Dufel大 衣，其设计之路延续至今。Dufel大衣风靡不息的 秘密是什么？该品牌营销总监Mark Smith答曰：“ 造型与功能。Dufel大衣已成为了英伦服饰之标杆 和衣橱必备之经典，任四季流转变换，轻松凸显时 尚风格；而且在天气频变之际，既能保持温暖，又能 免于潮湿。” 和同样历史久远的风衣一样，因其经久耐穿、 保暖性佳的特点，Dufel大衣多年以来一直备受 欢迎。Gloverall的团队在设计品牌系列的其他产 品时，依然沿用了Dufel大衣的经典元素。“木质 拴扣、牛角扣、皮绳、皮环等细节是Dufel大衣 的代名词，这些元素在我们的经典系列（Classic globalblue.com

Collection）当中随处可见。除此之外，在我们为每 一款夹克设计保护性元素的时候，Dufel大衣也是 一大重要灵感源泉。所以，即使是较为轻型款式也 要在工艺上保证质量，好让它能在抵抗恶劣环境的 同时，同时彰显超现代风范，”Smith如是说。 2015/16年秋冬季，Gloverall从经典体育故事 中寻求灵感，例如20世纪50年代英国一级方程式赛 车手Tony Brooks身着经典“蒙帝大衣”的黑白照 片。熟羊毛风格在当季款式中稍添流线感，更加入了 赛跑图案缝饰和扣针元素。 着眼往昔探求Dufel设计灵感的不仅Gloverall 一家，英国品牌Ben Sherman也于2015/16秋冬 季对Dufel进行了重新设计。“之所以有此想法， 是因为我们想打造能与英国青年文化产生关联的 服装，” 设计总监Mark Williams说道。“披在西 装外面，Dufel就成了当季的新款羊毛外罩，给 经典的英伦现代主义（Mod）造型添加了新的魅 力。”2015/16秋冬款 Dufel大衣也被赋予了现代 风格。男装设计师Christopher Reaburn在他的 Raft系列中，选用优质意大利尼龙面料，饰以气质 忧郁的锈色印花，打造出富有创意的夹棉Dufe大 衣。 女装设计中同样不乏Dufel的身影。在设计 师Mary Katrantrou的2015/16年秋冬系列新品 中，她将“华丽的传统元素与现代科技幻想巧妙结 合”。穿着高跟鞋和不透明紧身裤袜的模特迈上T 台，Dufel大衣上前卫大胆的标志性印花分外夺 目。 不论是大刀阔斧的新锐改造还是重温经典复古 元素，Dufel都能游刃有余。风格如此灵动多变，试 问有多少大衣款式能够做到呢？ gloverall.com, bensherman.com, christopherraeburn.co.uk, marykatrantzou.com 54: A Very British Wit 典型英式诙谐 设计师Lulu Guinness凭借经典的唇形手袋作品 声名鹊起，如今迎来了她在时尚界的第25个精彩年 头。这位活泼而幽默的设计师洋溢着典型的英伦风 范，与Frances Wasem 相谈甚欢 今年是Lulu Guinness的里程碑年，她已经在英国 时尚界度过了25个春秋。年轻设计师想要跻身业 内已属不易，打造出如此驰名的奢侈品帝国更难如 登天。而这一切，始于喷薄的灵感和创业立世的雄 心——“成非常之事，得百万真金”。 阔肩女装广为流行的20世纪80年代末，女性 终于推开了职场大门。电影《上班女郎》（Working

101

Girl）中的女主角Melanie Grifth就荣升为新一代 女性之楷模。主张“成非常之事”的Lulu Guinness 为这类女性打造了专属的公文包。“这是一种理念， 而非一个品牌。”这位身材娇小的设计师如是说； 一支Mac牌Ruby Woo复古红唇膏衬得她唇红齿 白。“我们需要有人来设计专属于女性的办公用 品。Filofax笔记本可以将手机和电脑的功能合二为 一。我深深着迷于我的Filofax，我自己的公文包设 计也是从这一理念中延伸而来。” 新婚后，原本从事影片剪辑的Guinness寻觅着 一份足不出户便能完成的工作。“还得寻觅你说过 的‘百万真金’哪！不过现在已经是‘十亿’真金了。” 听到Frances Wasem打趣的提醒，她露出了极富感 染力又温暖四溢的笑容。以“得风气之先”为追求， 她设计出了既实用又美观的女士公文包。“我采用了 最昂贵的皮革面料。包内留出了放置雨伞和钥匙的 空区，衬里用的是红色或紫色的绒面革，”Guinness 回忆道。后来，这款女包成为了“有史以来最重要的 时尚宣言”。 这一灵机之作获得了英国时尚协会（British Fashion Council）的赞赏。Guinness清晰地记 得1991年她的伦敦时装周处女秀上的场景。“当时 我怀孕八个月，Anya Hindmarch 走过来向我致 意。”Guinness不仅以活泼的设计风格而著称， 还擅于从插画、建筑和家具设计等众多艺术领域 中借鉴灵感，运用到自己的作品当中（设计师Elsa Schiaparelli和画家Salvador Dalí都对她影响颇 深）。 “作为一名有想法的设计师，我不会随波逐 流，”她强调说。“我不会只因为当前流行穗饰，就在 设计时加入这个元素。”品牌的基因也反映着设计 师的个性——Guinness其人极为讲究、聪颖睿智， 充满了女性魅力。“对我来说品质也非常重要，”她继 续说道。“我想让标价300欧元的手袋在人们眼中如 同价值600欧元，因此选用了奢华的皮革面料和处 理方式。购买我设计的手袋，其实是支付了面料和手 工成本，而非为全球27家商铺的广告费埋单。 Guinness设计的手袋因而畅销世界，尤其风 靡于亚洲、意大利和英国。品牌的全球营业额如今 已达到1000万英镑。Guinness在她居所的地下室 里孕育了自己的企业，而今她依然居住在这座房子 里。“创业初期我一个人干所有的活，填表格、包装产 品，”她回忆道。当伦敦的维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆 （Victoria and Albert Museum）将她设计的玫瑰 花篮印在“50年时尚展”（ 50 Years of Fashion） 海报上，Guinness终于能享受长假了。“我的玫瑰 花篮有楼房那么大，一下子就引起了公众的兴趣，从 而改变了一切，”Guinness说。随后几周，“由专人驾 驶的劳斯莱斯在我的屋外排成了长龙。Jerry Hall等 名人和模特纷纷前来西伦敦找我。”

25年倏忽而逝。于Guinness而言，变化的是 名流们的容颜，不变的是她的设计理念。她设计 的手拿包拥趸如云（特别是那些唇形款式），Kate Moss、Alexa Chung、Paloma Faith 和Helena Bonham Carter等名流皆在其列。Guinness早年 嫁入豪门，联想到20世纪80年代英国人旗帜鲜明 的阶级意识，不禁让人好奇：这桩婚事有没有带来 任何机遇之门？“我创业之初就用 ‘Lulu’作为商 标，”这位设计师坦言。“接受采访时，我会向对方提 出去掉我的夫姓‘Guinness’。我只想知道能否以自 己的名义做设计。”显然，答案是肯定的，如今的她 已在英国时尚界功成名就。“英国设计师总是敏感而 又脆弱，因为过去我们的商业成就总是落后于创意 水准。所幸这两者已日渐齐平，我们便无需再担忧他 人的质疑。” Guinness的2015/16年秋冬系列中充溢着 英式诙谐与能量。黑色手袋饰以小金属片，再印 上一句“A little lipstick never hurts（些许口红 总无妨）”。各式各样的脸谱图案成为了延续数季 的灵感源泉。“胶带拼贴而成的脸谱着实令我着 迷，”Guinness说。“Bobbi Brown 公司创意总监 Donald Drawbertson的作品让我深受启发。”占 据时尚潮头多年，她是如何做到的？“在设计界，洞 察力不可或缺，而我对社会趋势十分着迷。强大的 适应力和些许疯狂也很必要。情绪低落时，我会自 疑——明明已经老得玩不动时尚了，我还在做什么？ 心情不错时，我又会惊叹——工作室里的40人得以 忙碌，只因我的脑中迸发着灵感，我何其荣幸！” luluguinness.com 60: Show Of Hands 巧手天工 伦敦最杰出的设计师们正将手工技艺演绎得出神入 化。Harriet Quick剖析诸多品牌，带您一一鉴赏手 工制品、地道珍品与精雕细刻 时尚之轮前进不息，潮流接踵而至。在奢侈品界，一 组规格更小而更精微复杂的齿轮亦已转动。伦敦的 设计师与专业工匠协力，以精湛的手工技艺打造真 实、诚挚、净粹之作。不论是手缝蕾丝、画面拼缝、 手织薄纱还是植绒和烧花丝绒，都是高雅精巧而非 手工拙朴之品。2015/16年秋冬系列正是因此而充 满了质感和文化意趣。 英国时尚先锋之一Christopher Kane为伦敦东 部工作室的团队安排了一堂写生课，新季的灵感正 是源于此课堂。“美丽画作涌现眼前，我不禁想把它 们的轮廓用蕾丝拼贴出来。画作上的所有人都在相 互拥抱、轻抚，于是我决定把手臂或身体部分表现 到蕾丝的纹理中来，”Kane解释道。为实现心目中的

102

效果，他在瑞士的一家蕾丝工作室与技艺高超的工 匠联手合作。前卫音乐人、当红潮人FKA Twigs首 先尝试了这一性感的设计，旋即在纽约大都会艺术 博物馆慈善舞会（Met Gala）上引起了轰动，预订 热潮也随之涌来。 Christopher Bailey为Burberry设计的精巧 手工作品同样备受瞩目，他将其称作“拼贴-图案-印 花”系列，迎合了人们对二十世纪七十年代风格的热 爱。每件单品都蕴含着诸多技艺——缝饰、假缝、印 度镜绣、手工印染、钩针编织一应俱全。外在细节、 印花与多姿多彩的植物印染巧妙搭配、相得益彰， 尽显无限魅力。颇具层次感的围嘴裙与花饰绒面革 风衣源自于七十年代的嬉皮文化；2015年，新的设 计指引了奢侈品界的手工风潮。也许，我们终将告别 琳琅闪耀的奢侈标牌。 对装饰性工艺品的浓烈兴趣似乎与英国人的 性格息息相关。毕竟，这里乃是后维多利亚时期英 格兰艺术与手工运动先驱威廉·莫里斯（William Morris）的出生地。相较于机器制作的工业产品， 莫里斯坚信手工制品有其优越之处。这种对手工艺 的执着从威廉·莫里斯美术馆的展品中亦可窥见一 二。 Alexander McQueen长期资助英国工匠。由 品牌创意主管Sarah Burton带领团队四处寻访来 自各行各业的名工巧匠，绣匠、鞍具专家、铜艺师， 乃至皇家骑兵卫队的毛发护理师，形形色色汇聚一 堂。新品系列中，Burton从摄影师David Sims的 作品中汲取灵感，将画面中的渐枯玫瑰精心缝制在 晚礼裙上，手工绢网闪耀3D特效。皮革与薄纱饰以 细木镶嵌，塑造笼状束腰，更有迷乱蕾丝点缀以打 造华美晚礼裙。Burton借天然拙朴为不完美之美献 一曲赞歌。 手工技艺的欢乐碰撞亦是设计师Michael van der Ham作品的灵魂。2009年，他便以拼装为主 题，完成了中央圣马丁艺术学院的硕士毕业设计。 “百变的织物与刺绣让我着迷，真想在作品里将它 们 ‘一网打尽’，”他回想起在某次设计中，各种色彩 与质地的手工织物错落眼前，端详把玩间迸发出衣 裙创意。他位于伦敦Hackney的工作室提供时装半 定制服务，女星Helena Bonham Carter便是首批 顾客之一。 另一品牌Erdem同样擅于将天然拙朴和精致 细节巧妙结合。在2015/16年秋冬大秀上，设计师 Erdem Moralioğlu在颇具20世纪60年代风格的家 居环境中展示自己的新作，四周布满个性物件。 闲庭信步的模特上衣紧束，裙沿丰富的提花织 物辅以精妙磨边，宛如戏中角色；既彰显贵族气息 又不乏质朴亲和元素，实用主义与热情创意相得益 彰。Mulberry团队同样从内饰工艺上获得灵感，设 计师从乔治王时代的灰泥、琢石艺术和瓷砖图案上 globalblue.com

寻获启发，打造出质感极佳、气质奢华的服装系列， 其中包括自由舒展的粗花呢外套，以及饰有真丝提 花的大摆短裙。 我们不妨把每一件时尚新品都与某一个地 点联系起来。观赏维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆 （Victoria and Albert Museum）的雕花石棺时， 最宜身着Christopher Kane设计的“爱之蕾丝” （Lover’s Lace）裙装，两者相映成趣，唯美如 画；来到重新开放的约翰·索恩博物馆（Sir John Soane’s Museum），徜徉于珍稀古董和装饰艺术 品间，Burberry的拼装华服便再合适不过了。浸染 文化气韵的时装总会带给穿者别样魅力。 christopherkane.com, burberry.com, alexandermcqueen.com, michaelvanderham.com, erdem.com, mulberry.com

94: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 £30即可节约高达购买价格14%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。

‫‪103‬‬

‫ويفس قائلً‪:‬‬ ‫نظّمه لفريقه ف الستديو الخاص به شق لندن‪ّ .‬‬ ‫"تخّضت عن الصف رسوم جميلة فقررت أن أجمعها عل قمش‬ ‫مخ ّرم فيبدو وكأ ّن يدا ً أو طرفاً آخر من الجسم – يحاول معانقة‬ ‫الخر أو لسه‪ ".‬عمل ‪ Kane‬مع فنيي يضطلعون بهارات عالية‬ ‫للتوصل إل التصميم‬ ‫ف محتف لصنع القمش الخ ّرم ف سويسا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الذي أراده‪ .‬فكان الوسيقي الشهي وأسطورة الزياء ‪FKA‬‬ ‫‪ Twigs‬أ ّول من ارتدى إحدى هذه التصاميم الراقية لتتسلّط عليه‬ ‫الضواء ف سهرة ‪Met Gala‬وتنهال الطلبات عليها ف ما بعد‪.‬‬ ‫ل يكن العمل اليدوي العقّد بالسهل بالنسبة إل‬ ‫‪ Christopher Bailey‬ف دار ‪ Burberry‬الذي أطلق عل‬ ‫مجموعته إسم ‪ Patchwork, Pattern and Prints‬وحاك‬ ‫كل قطعة تقنيات‬ ‫حواس عشاق الصيحات التسعينية‪ .‬تض ّمنت ّ‬ ‫متنوعة من التزيي الرقعي والدرز والتطريز الهندي العاكس‬ ‫والنقوش الطبوعة يدوياً والكروشيه‪ .‬ول ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن الدمج البارع بي‬ ‫س‪ .‬فيم‬ ‫التفاصيل الخارجية والنقشات والصبغات النباتية الغنيّة آ ٌ‬ ‫يعود أصل فساتي الطبقات القصية بل أكمم ومعاطف الجلد‬ ‫الزخرفة بالزهور إل عص السبعينيات‪ ،‬تشي بوادر عام ‪2015‬‬ ‫إل ميل نحو الفخامة الحرفية‪ ،‬لعلّها تشكّل نهاية حقبة اللبس‬ ‫اللمعة الح ّملة بشعارات العلمات‪.‬‬ ‫يبدو أ ّن الهتمم الصبوب عل الحرف الزخرفية يتناسب‬ ‫والعقليّة ال–يطانية‪ .‬بالفعل‪ ،‬فهنا مسقط رأس ‪William‬‬ ‫‪ Morris‬رائد حركة الفنون والحرف ف أواخر حقبة انكلتا‬ ‫الفيكتورية‪ .‬اشتهر ‪ Morris‬بإيانه القوي بتف ّوق النتجات‬ ‫الحرفية عل النتجات الصناعية التي تولّدها اللت‪ .‬ويقدّم معرض‬ ‫‪ William Morris‬نوذجاً عن هذه العمل أثناء صنعها‪.‬‬ ‫لطالا دعم الصمم ‪ Alexander McQueen‬حرفيي‬ ‫بريطانيا‪ .‬بقيادة مديرة البتكار ‪ ،Sarah Burton‬يبحث فريق‬ ‫كل أنواع التخصصي ويتعاون معهم‪ ،‬من‬ ‫العلمة التجارية عن ّ‬ ‫خ–اء التطريز بالريش إل متم ّرس الساجة وخ–اء ال–ونز وحتّى‬ ‫التخصصي السؤولي عن تنفيذ تصاميم الريش للفرسان حراس‬ ‫اللكة‪ .‬ف مجموعة العلمة التجارية الخية‪ ،‬ابتكرت ‪Burton‬‬ ‫أزهارا ً ثلثية البعاد من قمش التول الجموع يدوياً لفساتي‬ ‫السهرة الستوحاة جزئيّا ً من ُصور الزهار الذابلة للمصور ‪David‬‬ ‫‪ .Sims‬أخيطت ب–اعة أقمشة التول مع الجلد فتمخّضت عنها‬ ‫كورسيهات تشبه القفاص فيم تح ّولت أقمشة الدانتيل فسات َي‬ ‫سهرة فاتنة‪ .‬ل َ‬ ‫كمل ف الطبيعة‪ ،‬تلك كانت طريقة ‪Burton‬‬ ‫لتسبّح جمل النقص‪.‬‬ ‫يشكّل استكشاف حوادث العمل اليدوي السعيدة نقطة‬ ‫أساسية للمصمم ‪ .Michael van der Ham‬امتهن اللصق‬ ‫والتقيع منذ أن حاز شهادة الاجستي ف جامعة ‪Central‬‬ ‫‪ Saint Martins‬للفنون عام ‪ .2009‬وعند التحدّث إليه أثناء‬ ‫شبكه النسجة وجمعه ألوان القمشة الحرفية الفاتنة لبتكار‬ ‫الفساتي الخلقة قال‪" :‬عدد القمشة والطرزات التي أحبها كب ٌي‪،‬‬ ‫كل شء‪ ".‬كان قد بدأ بتقديم‬ ‫لذلك أرغب ف أن تشمل تصاميمي ّ‬ ‫خدمات خياطة جزئية ف محتفه ف ‪ Hackney‬وشكّلت المثّلة‬ ‫‪ Helena Bonham Carter‬أحد أ ّول زائريه‪.‬‬ ‫تُعت– ‪ Erdem‬علمة تجارية أخرى تُعرف بزج الخام‬ ‫والصقول‪ .‬فقد عرض الصمم ‪ Erdem Moralioğlu‬مجموعته‬ ‫لخريف صيف ‪ 2015/2016‬ف سلسلة قاعات يسود فيها ج ّو‬ ‫الستينيات وتلؤها الغراض الميّزة‪ .‬جالت العارضات ف الغرف‬

‫وكأنّه ّن شخصيّات ف مسحية‪ ،‬إذ ارتدين سلسلة فساتي قصية‬ ‫ضيّقة عل الصدر مصنوعة من مزيج ذكّ ما بي أقمشة الجاكار‬ ‫قصة صنع هذه التصاميم من قطع‬ ‫الغنية والطراف النسلة‪ .‬تبدو ّ‬ ‫الواقعي‬ ‫قدية أرستقراطي ًة ساحرة فهي تعكس الشغف والطابع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لها‪ .‬رأى فريق عمل ‪ Mulberry‬ف تزيي القاعات بقطعٍ حرفيّة‬ ‫أمرا ً أساسياً‪ ،‬فلجأ إل الجص الجورجي وحجر البناء والقرميد‬ ‫كمصدر بصي للمجموعة الساسية الغنية التي تض ّم ف الساس‬ ‫معاطف صوفية خشنة وبعض اللبس الخرى كتناني الجاكارد‬ ‫الحريرية القصية‪.‬‬ ‫وكم من الفيد أن نكون عل علم بالكان الذي سيت ّم‬ ‫فيه كشف النقاب عن الجموعات الجديدة‪ .‬ف–أينا ستبدو‬ ‫تصاميم ‪ Kane’s Lover‬من الدانتيل ساحرة وسط نواويس‬ ‫متحف ‪ ،Victoria and Albert‬فيم ستكون روعة تصاميم‬ ‫‪ Burberry‬الرقّعة مثالية للتج ّول ف متحف ‪Sir John Soane‬‬ ‫الذي تّت إعادة فتحه حديثاً ليض ّم كنزا ً من الثار والفنون‬ ‫الزخرفية‪ .‬فل ب ّد للزياء التي تزخر بالثقافة أن تلقي نجاحاً مدوياً‪.‬‬ ‫‪christopherkane.com، burberry.com‬‬ ‫‪،alexandermcqueen.com‬‬ ‫‪،michaelvanderham.com ،erdem.com‬‬ ‫‪mulberry.com‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 94‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪104‬‬

‫طمحت "أن تقدّ“ عملً مختلفاً يد ّر لها الليي‪".‬‬ ‫ف نهاية التسعينيات‪ ،‬كانت موضة الستات البطّنة الكتاف يقودها سائقون بالصف خارج منزل وتو ّجه مشاهي وعارضات‬ ‫ل‪".‬‬ ‫شق طريقه ّن ف مجال إدارة العمل‬ ‫رائجة فيم حاولت النساء ّ‬ ‫أزياء مثل ‪ Jerry Hall‬إل ”رب لندن للعثور ع ّ‬ ‫بعد ‪ 25‬عاماً‪ ،‬تبدّلت وجوه الشاهي‪ ،‬لك ّن فكرة التصميم‬ ‫فتح ّولت ‪ Melanie Griffith‬ف فيلم ‪Working Girl‬‬ ‫كل من ‪ Kate Moss‬و‪Alexa Chung‬‬ ‫بقيت عينها‪ .‬انض ّمت ّ‬ ‫جيل كامل من النساء‪ .‬من هنا عملت‪Lulu‬‬ ‫قدوة يحتذي بها ٌ‬ ‫و‪ Paloma Faith‬و‪ Helena Bonham Carter‬إل نادي‬ ‫‪ Guinness‬عل "فكرتها الجديدة" فقدّمت حقيبة للنساء‬ ‫العجبي بحقائب ‪ ،Guinness‬ل سيّم بتصميم الشفاه ‪Lips‬‬ ‫تفس الصممة الرشيقة التي تضع أحمر الشفاه ‪Ruby‬‬ ‫العاملت‪ّ .‬‬ ‫كل شفة ولسان‬ ‫‪ Woo‬من ‪ Mac‬قائلةً‪" :‬بدأتُ أولً بفكرة‪ ،‬وليس بعلمة تجارية‪ .‬منها‪ .‬اقتنت الص ّممة برجل تردّد اسم عائلته عل ّ‬ ‫ف الثمنينيات ف بريطانيا‪ ،‬فهل م ّهد لها ذلك طريق النجاح؟‬ ‫ففي تلك الفتة‪ ،‬ل يعمل أحد عل تصميم أكسسوارات عمل‬ ‫تجيب‪" :‬عندما بدأت التصميم‪ ،‬استخدمت اسم ‪ Lulu‬وطلبت ف‬ ‫للنساء‪ .‬ج َم َعت مد ّونة ‪ Filofax‬ما بي هاتف خليوي وحاسوب‬ ‫القابلت أل يت ّم استخدا“ إسم ‪ Guinness‬إذ أردت أن أكتشف‬ ‫وكنت مهووسة بها‪ .‬من هنا جاءت فكرة الحقيبة لتك ّملها‪".‬‬ ‫ف تلك الفتة‪ ،‬كانت ‪ Guinness‬قد تز ّوجت حديثاً وتبحث إن كنت سأنجح ف التصميم لوحدي‪ ".‬بالفعل‪ ،‬حقّقت نجاحاً باهرا ً‬ ‫وباتت الن عضوا ً فخورا ً ف عال تصميم الزياء البيطان‪" .‬ف البدء‪،‬‬ ‫عن طريقة لتنتقل من مجال مونتاج الفل“ إل مهنة تتيح لها‬ ‫كان الصممون البيطانيون حساسي ومع ّرضي؛ لكن اليو“‪ ،‬بعد أن‬ ‫العمل من النزل‪ .‬تقول وهي تضحك "ف البدء أردت أن أجني‬ ‫ذاع صيتنا بفضل إبداعنا‪ ،‬ل يعد بإمكان أحد التع ّرض لنا‪".‬‬ ‫الليي‪ .‬أ ّما اليو“ فطموحي أن أجني الليارات" فتش ّع منها طاقة‬ ‫تعكس مجموعة ‪ Guinness‬لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪2015/2016‬‬ ‫ودفء معديان‪ .‬توفّقت بعملها لنّها كانت الرائدة ف توقّع صيحة‬ ‫خفة الد“ والطاقة البيطانية‪ .‬فتى عبارة ‪A little lipstick‬‬ ‫جديدة قبل أن تبدأ حتى‪ ،‬فشكّلت الحقيبة التي ص ّممتها الول‬ ‫‪ never hurts‬مط ّرزة عل حقيبة سوداء ل ّاعة‪ ،‬ف حي بقيت‬ ‫من نوعها – حقيبة لنساء العمل عملية وجميلة ف آن‪ .‬تتذكّر‬ ‫الوجوه مصدر إلها“ الص ّممة لعدّة مواسم‪ .‬ل تزال مجموعة‬ ‫‪ Guinness‬قائلة‪" :‬استخدمت أ”ل نوع من الجلد وض ّمت‬ ‫‪ Tape Face‬تثي اهتم“ ‪Guinness‬وأثناء التحدّث عنها‬ ‫الحقيبة جيوباً للمظلّة والفاتيح مبطّنة بجلد الغزال الحمر‬ ‫قالت‪" :‬استوحيتها من ‪ Donald Drawbertson‬الذي يعمل‬ ‫أو الرجوان‪ ".‬تح ّولت الحقيبة إل "أه ّم صيحة أطلِقت ف عال‬ ‫مديرا ً إبداعياً ف ‪.Bobbi Brown‬‬ ‫الزياء!"‬ ‫كل هذه العوا“ أن تبقى عصيّة؟‬ ‫كيف –كّنت بعد مرور ّ‬ ‫بفضل هذه الفكرة الرائعة‪ ،‬ك ّر“ ‪British Fashion‬‬ ‫"دائاً ما أراقب وأنتبه لبسط التفاصيل‪ ،‬إذ تثي التو ّجهات‬ ‫‪ Council‬الص ّممة عل عملها‪ .‬ول تزال حتى اليو“ تتذكّر أ ّول‬ ‫أتحل برونة ولسة‬ ‫الجتمعية إعجاب‪ .‬ف الوقت عينه‪ ،‬ينبغي أن ّ‬ ‫عرض لها ف أسبوع الوضة ف لندن عا“ ‪" :1991‬كنت حاملً‬ ‫جنونية‪ .‬ف اليا“ الصعبة أتساءل لاذا ل أزال أعمل فأنا قد كبت‬ ‫ف الشهر الثامن واقتبت م ّني ‪ Anya Hindmarch‬لت ّحب‬ ‫ف السن ول أعد قادرة عل الستمرار ف هذا الجال‪ .‬لكن ف‬ ‫صفها الشاكس وتعتمد ف‬ ‫ب‪ ".‬يُعرف عن ‪ Guinness‬ت ّ‬ ‫مجموعاتها عل آلف الراجع (ل سيّم من ‪ Elsa Schiaparelli‬القابل أعيش أياما ً سعيدة أشعر فيها بالمتنان عندما أرى ‪40‬‬ ‫شخصاً يعملون ف مكتبي لنّني أقدّ“ أفكارا ً للعال‪".‬‬ ‫و‪ )Salvador Dalí‬فتعكس التصوير والهندسة العمرية‬ ‫‪luluguinness.com‬‬ ‫وهندسة الثاث ف ما تقدّمه‪.‬‬ ‫تشدّد قائلةً‪" :‬أنا مص ّممة تتمتّع برأي‪ ،‬ولست شخصاً يحاول‬ ‫‪60: Show Of Hands‬‬ ‫إطلق صيحات‪ .‬لن أعمد أبدا ً إل تصميم حقيبة مع شاشيب‬ ‫استعراض الهارات‬ ‫ل ّن الوضة تقض بذلك‪ ".‬تعكس هويّة العلمة التجارية شخصيّة‬ ‫الص ّممة – فهي راقية ومشاكسة وتتميّز بأنوثة طبيعيّة‪ .‬تتابع‪:‬‬ ‫"أركّز أيضاً عل الجودة‪ ،‬فألجأ إل الجلد الفاخر وأحرص عل إنهاء بدأ الصممون الكث إثارة ف لندن باعتمد تقنيات حرفية تنعكس‬ ‫الحقيبة بدقّة‪ .‬أريد أن يعتقد الناس أ ّن هذه الحقيبة تكلّف ‪ 600‬تأثيا ً مذهلً‪ .‬ها هي ‪ Harriet Quick‬تعطي لحة عن العلمات‬ ‫التجارية التي تلجأ إل الصناعة اليدوية الصيلة والحرفية‬ ‫جنيه استليني ف حي أنّها تُباع بـ ‪ .300‬فمن يشتي حقيبة‬ ‫من تصميمي يدفع ثن الجلد وجودة الصناعة‪ ،‬وليس ثن حملة‬ ‫فيم تستم ّر عجلة عال الزياء بالدوران مولّد ًة صيحة بعد الخرى‪،‬‬ ‫إعلنية لـ‪ 27‬متجرا ً ف العال‪".‬‬ ‫بالضافة إل ذلك‪ ،‬تُباع حقائب ‪ Guinness‬ف جميع أنحاء بدأ قطاع اللبس العالية الجودة ييل بات ّجا ٍه مختلف‪ .‬إذ يتعاون‬ ‫مصممو لندن مع حرفيي متخصصي ويلجؤون إل تقنيات حرفية‬ ‫العال‪ ،‬ل سيّم ف آسيا وإيطاليا والملكة التحدة‪ .‬تصل قيمة‬ ‫تجسد الصالة والنزاهة وبراعة الصناعة اليدوية‪.‬‬ ‫البيعات الكليّة للشكة عالياً إل ‪ 10‬مليي جنيه استليني‪ّ .‬أسست لبتكار تصاميم ّ‬ ‫وتتجل هذه التقنيات رقياً ل مكان فيه للبتذال ف مجموعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Guinness‬شكتها ف طابق منزلها السفل الذي ل تزال تسكن‬ ‫وتص ّمم الحقائب فيه‪.‬تعود بها الذاكرة إل الوراء فتقول‪" :‬ف البدء تصاميم متنوعة تتاوح بي القمش الخ ّر“ الناعم واللبس الرقّعة‬ ‫تولّيت جميع الها“‪ ،‬فكنت السؤولة عن ملء الستمرات وتعليب التي تروي ألف حكاية وحكاية وقمش التول الجموع يدوياً‬ ‫والصوف والخمل الحروق‪ .‬بفضل هذه التقنيات الساحرة‪،‬‬ ‫النتجات‪ ".‬حصلت عل فرصتها الذهبية عندما ض ّم متحف‬ ‫اكتسبت مجموعات خريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ 2015/2016‬مزايا جملية‬ ‫‪ Victoria and Albert‬حقيبة ص ّممتها بشكل سلّة ورد عل‬ ‫ملموسة وراقية‪.‬‬ ‫ملصقات احتفاله بذكرى مرور خمسي عاماً عل افتتاح معرض‬ ‫يُعتب ‪ Christopher Kane‬أحد أبرز خباء الطللت‬ ‫الزياء‪ .‬تقول ‪ُ " :Guinness‬عرضت ملصقات عل طول البان‬ ‫صف لرسم عارضة عارية كان قد‬ ‫تص ّور حقيبة سلّة الورد فساهمت كثيا ً بازدهاري بعد أن حاكت‬ ‫والصيحات‪ ،‬وقد استوحى من ّ‬ ‫خيال الا ّرين‪ ".‬ف ”ضون أسابيع "وقفت سيارات ‪Rolls-Royce‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪105‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪48: Top Coat‬‬

‫العطف الفضل‬

‫تختلف صيحات العاطف الواقية من الطر هذا الوسم‪ ،‬فبعضها‬ ‫قديم الطراز والخر حديث‪ .‬بحسب ‪ Karen Munnis‬تنطبق‬ ‫جميع الصيحات عل العطف الكلسيك الذي يكن ارتداؤه عل‬ ‫الجانبَي‬ ‫يحظى العطف الشتوي الواقي من الطر الذي يكن قلبه عل‬ ‫الجهة الخرى بشعبية كبية ف صفوف النساء والرجال وهو‬ ‫بأهميّة العطف الش ّمع الربيعي‪ .‬استوحى عدّة مص ّممي‬ ‫مجموعاتهم لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ 2015/2016‬من الاض فض ّموا إليها‬ ‫هذا العطف الذي يجمع بي الجانب العمل والناقة‪.‬‬ ‫يُعتقد أ ّن العطف قد ُس ّمي تي ّمناً ببلدة ‪ Duffel‬البلجيكية التي‬ ‫تشتهر بتصنيع الصوف السميك عينه الذي ُصنع منه‪ ،‬لك ّن تصميم‬ ‫هذا العطف الواقي من الطر بقلنسوته الكبية وعرواته الخشبية‬ ‫هو تصميم انكليزي بحت‪ .‬ف أواخر التسعينيات‪ ،‬أصبحت شكة‬ ‫‪ John Partridge‬لللبسة الواقعة ف ‪ Rugeley‬ف مدينة‬ ‫‪ Staffordshire‬رائد ًة ف صناعة هذه العاطف‪ .‬ف بداية‬ ‫التسعينيات‪ ،‬انتشت ف صفوف القوات البحرية البيطانية حيث‬ ‫فضّ ل الجنود اللون البني الفاتح منها لتقيهم من ظروف البحر‬ ‫القاسية – فبم أنّها واسعة‪ ،‬يكنهم ارتداؤها بسهولة فوق بذّاتهم‬ ‫وقبعاتهم العسكرية‪ .‬بعد فتة‪ ،‬بات هذا العطف يُعرف باسم‬ ‫‪ Monty‬إذ اعتاد الشي ‪Field Marshal Montgomery‬‬ ‫ارتداءه حتى يتع ّرف عليه رجاله بسهولة‪.‬‬ ‫عند بيع اللبس العسكرية الفائضة للناس‪ ،‬لقى معطف ‪duffel‬‬ ‫رواجاً وتح ّول إل صيحة ف الخمسينيات والستينيات‪ .‬ومن بي من‬ ‫ارتدوه ‪ Jean Cocteau‬الذي فضّ ل اللون البيض منه‪ .‬أضيفت‬ ‫العروات والقبّعات الكبية التي –يّز بها إل معاطف الطفال بعد‬ ‫أن ُص ّورت الشخصية الكرتونية ‪ Paddington Bear‬ترتدي‬ ‫اللون الزرق منه‪ .‬عرف هذا العطف رواجاً عل الساحة الوسيقية‬ ‫ل سيّم بعد أن ارتداه أعضاء فرقة ‪Belle and Sebastian‬‬ ‫الوسيقية من غلسغو‪ ،‬ومن ث ّم جميع أفراد فرقة ‪ Oasis‬باللون‬ ‫السود لتصوير غلف أغنيتهم ‪ Roll With It‬عام ‪.1995‬‬ ‫اشتت علمة ‪ Gloverall‬التجارية البيطانية حقوق بيع‬ ‫معاطف ‪ duffel‬العسكرية‪ ،‬وعام ‪ 1954‬بدأت تص ّنع نسختها‬ ‫يفس‬ ‫الخاصة منها التي ل تزال تص ّممها حتى اليوم‪ .‬ما الذي ّ‬ ‫استمرار نجاح هذا العطف؟ يشح ‪ Mark Smith‬مدير‬ ‫البيعات والتسويق للعلمة التجارية قائلً‪“ :‬يعود الفضل إل‬ ‫استحق العطف أن يكتسب مكانة مميّزة‬ ‫شكله والغاية منه‪ .‬فقد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لدى البيطانيي وأصبح قطعة أساسية ل تنتهي موضتها أبدا ً لنّها‬ ‫بكل سهولة من موسم إل آخر وتقي من يرتديها‬ ‫تعكس الناقة ّ‬ ‫البد والطر‪”.‬‬ ‫عل ”رار العطف الش ّمع الذي يتمتّع بدوره بإرث عريق‪،‬‬ ‫يعود فضل شيوع معطف ‪ duffel‬إل سهولة ارتدائه وتأمينه‬ ‫الدفء للبسيه أثناء أشهر الشتاء القارسة‪ .‬دائاً ما يض ّم فريق‬ ‫‪ Gloverall‬عناصه الكلسيكية ف تصاميم مجموعة العلمة‬ ‫التجارية الخرى‪ .‬يقول ‪“ Smith‬تشكّل التفاصيل عل ”رار‬

‫العروات الخشبية والرباط الصنوع من الحبال أو الجلد رمزا ً‬ ‫لهذا العطف وهي تفاصيل نض ّمها ف مجموعتنا الكلسيكية‪.‬‬ ‫ف اللبس الخرى‪ ،‬يبقى هذا العطف مصدر إلها“ أساس عند‬ ‫تصميم الجانب الواقي للستات التي نص ّنعها‪ .‬بالتال ط ّورنا تقنيّات‬ ‫مدروسة تسمح حتى للملبس الخفيفة بأن تكون واقية وعصية‬ ‫ف الوقت عينه‪”.‬‬ ‫لجموعة خريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ ،2015/2016‬استمدّت علمة‬ ‫‪ Gloverall‬وحيها من القصص الرياضية التاريخية‪ ،‬عل ”رار‬ ‫الصور التي التُقطت ف الخمسينيات بالسود والبيض لسائق‬ ‫الفورمول ‪ 1‬البيطان ‪ Tony Brooks‬مرتديا ً معطف ‪Monty‬‬ ‫الكلسيك‪ .‬ف تصميمت هذا الوسم‪ ،‬تض ّم العاطف صوفاً أكث‬ ‫َ‬ ‫انسيابي ًة ورسوماً‬ ‫ومشابك مزخرفة ومستوحاة من السباقات‪.‬‬ ‫ليست ‪ Gloverall‬العلمة التجارية الوحيدة التي نفضت‬ ‫الغبار عن الاض لتستوحي تصاميم معاطف جديدة‪ .‬إذ أعادت‬ ‫علمة ‪ Ben Sherman‬التجارية البيطانية تصميم العطف‬ ‫يفس ‪Mark‬‬ ‫لتض ّمه ف مجموعة خريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ّ .2015/2016‬‬ ‫‪ Williams‬رئيس قسم التصميم ف ‪ Ben Sherman‬قائلً‪:‬‬ ‫“توصلنا إل هذه الفكرة بعد أن بحثنا عن ملبس لها علقة بثقافة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشباب البيطانية‪ .‬فعندما يرتدي أحد هذا العطف فوق ستته‪،‬‬ ‫يتح ّول الخي إل الستة الصوفية الواقية الكث رواجاً لهذا الوسم‬ ‫والتي تعكس تأنقاً كلسيكياً‪”.‬‬ ‫بات العطف رائجاً ف مجموعات خريف‪/‬شتاء‬ ‫‪ .2015/2016‬ففي مجموعة ‪ ،Raft‬لجأ مصمم اللبس الرجالية‬ ‫‪ Christopher Raeburn‬إل النايلون اليطال العال الجودة‬ ‫وأضاف لسة بلون الصدأ ليتمخّض عن تصميمه معطف مبطّن‬ ‫وعصي‪.‬‬ ‫ظهر العطف الواقي أيضاً ف تصاميم اللبس النسائية‪.‬‬ ‫ففي مجموعة خريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ 2015/2016‬للمصممة ‪Mary‬‬ ‫‪ Katrantzou‬التي ُوصفت بأنّها تعرض “وفرة الرث إزاء التط ّور‬ ‫النصة مرتديات معاطف واقية‬ ‫الثال”‪ ،‬سارت العارضات عل ّ‬ ‫بطبعات جريئة (تُعرف لكونها لسة الصممة الخاصة) مع أحذية‬ ‫عالية الكعوب وساويل ضيّقة داكنة اللوان‪.‬‬ ‫تض ّم هذه العاطف لسات عصية وعريقة ف الوقت عينه‬ ‫كل الحقبات‪.‬‬ ‫وقليلة هي العاطف التي يكن تكييفها مع ّ‬ ‫‪،gloverall.com ،bensherman.com‬‬ ‫‪،christopherraeburn.co.uk‬‬ ‫‪marykatrantzou.com‬‬ ‫‪54: A Very British Wit‬‬

‫فطنة بريطانية بحتة‬

‫تحتفل ‪ Lulu Guinness‬الشهورة بتصميم حقائب الشفاه‬ ‫‪ Lips‬برور ‪ 25‬عاما ً عل دخولها عال الزياء‪ .‬ها هي ‪Frances‬‬ ‫الظل‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Wasem‬تلتقي الصممة البيطانية الصيلة الخفيفة ّ‬ ‫احتفلت ‪ Lulu Guinness‬هذا العا“ بحطة مه ّمة ف حياتها‬ ‫فقد م ّر‪ 25‬عاماً عل دخولها عال الزياء البيطان‪ .‬يُعتب هذا‬ ‫النجاز كبيا ً ف مهنة ”الباً ما يكافح فيها الصممون الشباب للبقاء‪.‬‬ ‫ويبدو النجاز أه ّم وأكب عندما نعي أ ّن مجموعة أزيائها التي‬ ‫تحمل إسمها إنّ ا –خّضت عن فكرة بسيطة تبادرت إل ذهن فتاة‬

106 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

GREAT BRITS With its colourful face, stainless steel casing and black rubber strap, this striking watch will make a unique addition to any gentleman’s collection. Fine watchmaker Graham was founded in London in 1695 and is known for its exquisite pieces, which are designed with a decidedly British feel and crafted by experts in Switzerland. This is just one of many luxurious watches available at the William & Son boutique on Bruton Street, which also ofers Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94

a dazzling array of fne jewellery. Founded in 1999, the company is committed to the concept of British luxury, and designs its own fne jewellery and watches as well as ofering a beautifully curated selection from some of the world’s most respected brands. The company’s commitment to excellence, both in its wares and its outstanding service, is recognised in the royal warrant it holds. hl Graham Overlord Mark III watch, £4,500, William & Son, 34-36 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QX, +44 (0)20 7493 8385, williamandson.com * for map go to page 81

THE ORI GINAL AMERI CA N BRAN D