SHOP Hanover SS16

HANOVER | ГАННОВЕР | 汉诺威 | ‫هانوفر‬

HANOVER Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016

Page 26 FORCE OF NATURE: designers are drawing inspiration from fowers, plants, animals and birds this season – and not just for womenswear

DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893

CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hanover Ernst-August-Galerie · Georgstraße 31-33 · Leine-Center (Laatzen)

www.christ.de

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国

Чехия Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this lively German city. Hanover has much to ofer, as our guide on page 36 reveals. Readers who appreciate worldclass fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s enticing naturethemed designs (page 26), and in this issue we also meet the Hanoverbased designer who is creating eco-friendly fabric out of milk (page 32).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Hanover. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Hanover

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany GALERIA Kaufhof Hanover – at the Ernst-August-Platz Welcome to the trade fair city of Hanover, where royal history and modern future go hand in hand. Your shopping paradise of GALERIA Kaufhof is located right at the city center by the main train station. GALERIA Kaufhof at the Ernst-August-Platz presents fascinating worlds of goods that convey new shopping pleasure with great range and price competence and comprehensive service offers.

We accept all major credit cards. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof.

Free WLAN in our store!

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Hanover, Ernst-August-Platz.

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

galeria-kaufhof.de

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Una Andrew Archer and Kelly Thompson are the design duo behind creative studio Una. Their ability to develop and refne concepts made them the perfect choice to illustrate this season’s SHOP Hanover cover, which is based on our natureinspired fashion feature on page 26. The illustration’s foral background pattern merges into the clothing, showing the infuence of nature on designers this season. Andrew Archer and Kelly Thompson have over 20 years of combined experience and have worked with top brands such as Apple, Escada, Penguin Books and Nike.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: GRACE BIRD

ILLUSTRATION: UNA

CONTRIBUTORS

Stephen Doig SHOP’s former features editor Stephen Doig is now men’s style editor and assistant luxury editor at the Telegraph; he has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. His weaknesses include metallic Lanvin shoes, red wine and good cheese. globalblue.com

Katie Byrne Katie Byrne, SHOP’s assistant picture editor, studied contemporary media practice at the University of Westminster, specialising in photography, and previously worked in celebrity news and picture agencies. She enjoys helping organise music events to support good causes.

Aaron Carline New York-born graphic designer Aaron Carline is passionate about editorial design and zine culture.

During his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare fnds, watching David Lynch flms or listening to 1990s hip hop.

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN

YOU DO IT TAX FREE Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save money on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Una Contributors Stephen Doig, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialist – campaigns Julia Monod Marketing specialist Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designers Kiranjeet Kaur, Tom Knight Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

S H O P | 11

CONTENTS Products 14

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Hanover this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

News 22 23

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Hanover News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Features 26

Cover story: The Nature Of Fashion

From bold animal motifs to twists on classic florals, designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season.

It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather, says Stephen Doig

32

Got Milk?

At her Hanover-based company Qmilk, designer Anke Domaske is creating fabric wonders out of waste dairy produce, as Josh Sims discovers

Guide 36

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hanover

Essentials 42

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 44 47 49

Русский Перевод 美文翻译

‫يبرع‬

Souvenir 50

The essential item to bring home

PHOTO: © JANNES FRUBEL

p.32

Above: Qmilk fashion, made of fabric derived from milk, modelled by Anastasia Bresler

BE STYLISH FOR LESS. ALWAYS. More than 80 designer brands 30 – 70% of all year round.

The Designer Outlet Soltau is a unique shopping village with architectural highlights such as half-timbered houses with thatched roofs – the Heide-Häuschen – which give the centre its very own charm. In this relaxed premium atmosphere more than 80 designer brands invite you to shop in the open air – always at discounts from 30 to 70 % and right in the middle of the beautiful landscape of the Lüneburger Heath between Hamburg and Hanover.

Just 40 minutes from Hamburg and Hanover directly adjacent to Highway A7, exit Soltau-Ost. Open from Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm designeroutletsoltau.com

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CHECK OUT

DIVE IN Swarovski’s seasonal collections never disappoint. Sea of Sparkle is both the name and the inspiration for the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection, and this ring in beautiful bright fuchsia, deep green and rich royal blue would make the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. The collection was inspired by the world’s seas and oceans, with colours and shapes that resemble aquatic plants in a colour Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42

palette of shimmering turquoise, aquamarine and pink. Sophisticated, feminine and elegant, Sea of Sparkle pieces are perfect for any occasion. Swarovski was founded in Austria in 1895 by Daniel Swarovski, who learned glasscutting skills in his father’s small factory and became a master of crystal. fm Swarovski Euphory ring, €299, Karstadt, Georgstrasse 23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 215 7521, swarovski.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 39

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16 | P RO D U C T S

PRINT POWER

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Choose a bold colour combination as the main focus of your outft – and keep everything else minimal

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1. Michael by Michael Kors straw bag, €230, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, michaelkors.com

3. Pomellato Nudo necklaces, €1,500 each, Delius, Kröpcke Passage 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 363331, pomellato.com

2. Chanel blusher, €57, Galeria Kaufhof, Ernst-August-Platz 5, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 1865, chanel.com

4. Urbanears headphones, €99, Gravis, Ernst August Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)30 3902 2222, urbanears.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42

PHOTOS: (2) JACQUES GIRAL; (8) ESHOT BERLIN

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5. Chloé Love Story perfume, 30ml, €57.95, Douglas, Georgstrasse 18, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 228 7990, chloe.com

7. Cos top, €59, Cos, Karmarschstrasse 17-23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 5390 2658, cosstores.com

6. Lipstick Queen lipstick, €21, Parfümerie Liebe, Karmarschstrasse 25, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 304711, lipstickqueen.com

8. Marc Cain skirt, €149, Marc Cain, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360760, marc-cain.com

globalblue.com

18 | P RO D U C T S

THE FINE DETAILS Accessories are essential to any outft, so choose wisely 1

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1. Chopard earrings, €2,930, Chopard, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360790, chopard.com 2. Apple MacBook Air, from €999, Apple, Bahnhofstrasse 5, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 9362 0700, apple.com 3. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille perfume, 50ml, €195, Douglas, Karmarschstrasse 26, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 363 1361, tomford.com 4. Lacoste jacket, €340, Lacoste, Karmarschstrasse 30, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 320250, lacoste.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42

PHOTO: (1) CHOPARD/HARALD FUCHS

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CASUAL MAN The perfect travel kit comprises camo print, jeans and a portable speaker 1

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PHOTOS: (1) © G-STAR RAW/LUKKIEN; (4) RASMUS DENGSØ

1. G-Star Raw shirt, €129.95, G-Star Raw, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 5708, g-star.com 2. Tommy Hilfger chinos, €129, Tommy Hilfger, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 4534, tommy.com 3. Tumi suitcase, €895, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, tumi.com 4. Bang & Olufsen BeoSound Moment music system, €2,195, Bang & Olufsen, Karmarschstrasse 46, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 322332, bang-olufsen.com

globalblue.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Hannover: Georgstraße 21

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

‫هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟‬ ،‫ ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة‬.C&A ‫إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت‬ ‫ وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في‬.‫من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة‬ ‫ لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات‬.‫محلتنا‬ . ‫والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان‬

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SHOP WINDOW

BEAUTIFUL BOGNER The new Bogner store in the centre of Hanover is an impressive space covering 400 square metres on prestigious Luisenstrasse. In line with the company’s ‘modern natural’ philosophy, the interior features extensive use of natural materials such as stone, bamboo and brass. The boutique stocks the brand’s full range of collections, including Sônia Bogner, Bogner Fire & Ice, and the Bogner Woman, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42

Man and Sport lines. For spring/summer 2016, the brand looks to India for inspiration. Expect vivid colours and prints for women, and the off-duty safari look for men. Bogner, founded in 1932, is now represented around the world by 21 standalone stores and a presence in more than 50 countries. The Munich-based lifestyle brand has an enviable reputation for luxurious sportswear and fashion-led designs. th Bogner, Luisenstrasse 9, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 450 0620, bogner.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40

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LUISA LOVE

PURPLE PERFECTION

Premium womenswear label Luisa Cerano is hugely popular in its native Germany for its immaculately cut, perfectly produced wardrobe staples; each collection includes key pieces such as the perfect dress, trouser suit or jacket. The brand’s clean lines and neutral colourways, as seen in the elegantly understated outfit below, mean pieces can be mixed and matched from one season to the next. Part of the Hauber textile group, Luisa Cerano was launched in 1998. Head to the exquisite Hanover multibrand store Liebe to see the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection. rd Liebe, Karmarschstrasse 25, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 304711, luisacerano.com

Quality and affordability are at the heart of the Louis Purple philosophy. Founded five years ago in France by Gerard Losson, the brand offers exceptional tailoring for men who seek sartorial sophistication and elegance. A wide range of made-to-measure and ready-towear suits ensures clients will always be able to find the perfect outfit. The made-to-measure option offers more than 18,000 possible combinations – every detail, from the type of lapel to the pockets, can be customised to the customer’s exact specifications. September 2015 saw the opening of the brand’s first German store in the vibrant city of Hanover. th Louis Purple, Kröpcke Passage, Luisenstrasse 10-11, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 7635 7861, louispurple.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40

PHOTO: RADUENACHE.PROSITE.COM

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 38

globalblue.com

24 | N E W S

KISSED BY A ROSE The Body Shop, a leading UK beauty brand, is celebrating the British rose during spring/ summer 2016. Look out for colourful stains for the lips and cheeks, and striking eye and cheek palettes. In addition to the make-up collection, seek out the Body Shop’s rose body care products which include the Exquisite Exfoliator, Ready Set Go Moisturiser, and Petal Soft Skin Instant Glow Body Butter (pictured, €17). rd The Body Shop, Hauptbahnhof, Ernst-August-Platz 1, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 388 9740, thebodyshop.de

PHOTO: BENETTON GROUP

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 38

FOR THE GIRLS To mark its 50th anniversary, Benetton has launched a global campaign to support a series of capsule collections that have been landing in stores over the past few months. The Italian brand has a long history of social commitment, voiced through powerful, hard-hitting advertising campaigns, and it also recently launched the long-term Women Empowerment Program initiative. The brand’s latest campaign Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42

focuses on five female models from different generations and backgrounds, carrying messages of emancipation and empowerment.

The new clothing range, A Collection of Us, retraces each of the brand’s five decades of producing colourful knitwear – now woven using the latest cutting-edge techniques. rd United Colors of Benetton, Georgstrasse 24, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 301 7970, benetton.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 39

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Spanish menswear specialist Massimo Dutti has opened its first Hanover standalone boutique, bringing the brand’s new global store concept to the city. Covering over 880 square metres, the store is decorated in a warm and contemporary style, featuring walnut, brass, leather and dark marble. In line with the trademark aesthetic of Massimo Dutti’s collections, modern lines blend seamlessly with classic details, creating a stylish and welcoming space. Arranged over two floors, the boutique offers a wide selection from both the men’s and women’s collections, and is a welcome addition to the expanding fashion scene of the city. hl

FEELING FRESH British cosmetics company Lush has celebrated the reopening of its second branch in Hanover. The brand, known for its colourful, fragrant merchandise and eco-credentials, has refitted the store with recycled and sustainably sourced timber. Visitors are invited to try the many testers on display and experience the unique products for themselves. Everything Lush makes, from bath bombs to make-up, hair globalblue.com

PHOTO: FABIO TEMPESTINI

CALL OF DUTTI

Massimo Dutti, Karmarschstrasse 17-23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 515 1430, massimodutti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 38

care to perfume, uses only plant-based ingredients. Since its launch over 20 years ago, Lush has pioneered fresh, innovative cosmetics, made by hand to the highest ethical standards.

The company promotes fair trade initiatives, rejects animal testing and minimises environmental impact. To date, there are Lush stores in 51 countries. th Lush, Grosse Packhofstrasse 15, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 4738 9435, lush-shop.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 38

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

THE

NATURE From bold animal motifs to twists on classic forals, designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season. It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather, says Stephen Doig

OF

FASHION Lef: Gucci spring/summer 2016

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

28 | F E AT U R E S

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rom the verdant foliage of the internationally renowned Herrenhäusen gardens in Hanover to Berlin’s sprawling Tiergarten and Munich’s 900-acre Englischer Garten, Germany’s cities burst into lifeaffirming greenery in springtime. Germany’s parks form a rich part of its city landscapes, all the more striking when they are juxtaposed with gleaming high-rise skyscrapers and sculptural architecture. With spring also heralding a change for our wardrobes, it’s heartening to note that designers are bringing the outside in, infusing our style repertoire with pieces that embrace the botanical, the blooming and the wild.

Designers often mine the aesthetics of the natural world for the spring/summer season.

But what’s remarkable about this spring’s offering, across menswear, womenswear and accessories, is the especially exciting, vibrant, fresh interpretation of the natural world.

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A host of German designers have joined in this season’s celebration of all things wild and wonderful ‘It was about a clash of cultures,’ said Kim Jones backstage at his spring/summer 2016 menswear show for Louis Vuitton.

The collection married eastern and western aesthetics. ‘It was about vintage Americana alongside influences from Asia,’ explained Jones. This coming together was expressed Above (from lef): Louis Vuiton; Gucci, both spring/summer 2016

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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by interpreting tropical forms of nature from far-flung, exotic locales. Jones is known as an intrepid traveller, and his designs saw storks swooping over silk bombers and shirting, cherry blossoms erupting into bloom, and capuchin monkeys peering out curiously from bamboo fronds; all to joyous effect. Jones consistently finds new ways to inject life and colour into his men’s collections, an area of fashion that generally veers towards the safe and standard rather than the bold and printed.

‘I think there’s definitely a push towards vibrant, vivid prints and a greater sense of adventure in how we dress,’ says Bill Prince, deputy editor of British GQ. ‘Botanical prints Above (from lef): Marc Jacobs; Gucci; Aigner; Jil Sander, all spring/summer 2016

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

and imagery of that ilk undoubtedly feed in to that.’ Who needs a tropical trek through the jungle when you can gain a sense of adventure through Kim Jones’s impeccable menswear?

At Gucci, Alessandro Michele continued to revolutionise the menswear landscape with his fluid, feminine designs, interpreted using the power of nature. Embroidered bouquets wound their way up suits, garlands were stitched onto lace around necklines, butterflies fluttered over sweaters and rainbow-bright stems, stalks, petals and stamens were blown up and printed onto suits. It was a similar story at Marc Jacobs, who dappled silk pyjama suits and shirts with blossoms and dashes of leopard print.

S H O P | 31

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

Germany’s designers were not to be outdone; a host of them joined in the celebration of all things wild and wonderful. At Hugo Boss, the house reimagined flower prints in its womenswear collection, using muted dove and slate tones, a refreshing contrast to polite pastel shades or bold splashes of abstract print. At historical German house Aigner, florals were realised in jacquard, lending them a threedimensional quality. Creative director Christian Beck, in an innovative move, took his cue from under the sea, with starfish, crabs, tentacles, seaweed and shells picked out in lace. At Jil Sander, men’s shirting and shorts were dotted with tiny blooms, in a rare burst of frivolity for a

brand known for its minimalist aesthetic.

Our wardrobes are increasingly technical, not just in their fabrication but in their construction, design and print. This move away from all things sophisticated and city-centric towards the outdoors, nature and animal life perhaps speaks to our desire to connect with that increasingly distant part of the world in some small form. Whatever the reason, these nature-inspired prints and motifs lend a hint of wit and whimsy to even the most standard piece – what could raise more of a smile than a merry capuchin peering out from the undergrowth?

Embrace the call of the wild this season. Your wardrobe will thank you

PHOTO: © JANNES FRUBEL

GOT MILK? At her Hanover-based company Qmilk, Anke Domaske is creating fabric wonders out of waste dairy produce, as Josh Sims discovers

It was, one might think, a life of two imperfectly matched disciplines. Anke Domaske was studying microbiology but designing fashion in her spare time, so successfully that, aged 19, she had her own label that was selling well in Japan. ‘I thought I’d have to decide between the two eventually, but then something happened that helped me combine them,’ says the Hanover-based entrepreneur. That something was her stepfather experiencing a serious illness and finding himself suddenly allergic to the fibres in much of his clothing. Domaske investigated and developed a surprising solution: a fibre made from milk.

She concedes that it sounds like a crazy idea: taking waste milk which has been deemed unfit for human consumption and processing its casein protein to create a fibre. But, as she 45 /

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discovered via a YouTube video, it has in fact been done before, in Germany during the 1930s. ‘It was big for a while, until the ease and cheaper cost of processing polyester basically outclassed it,’ she explains. ‘That’s why not many people have heard of it now. But when I looked into it more I found that even then its production involved chemical baths. And I was after something chemically neutral. So many of today’s fabrics, even the so-called natural ones, have actually been treated with all sorts of pesticides.’

After approaching various experts, who told her that a chemical-free milk casein-based fibre product probably couldn’t be made, Domaske decided to try to make it herself.

Using a vat, a mixer and a jam thermometer bought from a grocery store for €200, she became a kitchen-table start-up. ‘I thought Lef: Qmilk fashion modelled by Anastasia Bresler

34 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: © JANNES FRUBEL

that my studies would help because, even if you’re dealing with natural ingredients, it’s still a chemical process at work,’ she explains. ‘I have a lot more respect for textile makers now.

Creating fibres thinner than a human hair that can survive a washing machine isn’t easy.’

After 10 months of experimentation, she had created Qmilk fibre, and clothing made from it will go on sale this year. And she has also explored the further potential of milk proteins in a cosmetics line of milk-based, allnatural base creams launched after three years of development.

Both the fibre and the moisturisers, claims Domaske, exhibit remarkable properties. The fibre can be turned into 100% milk-based cloth but also blends invisibly with wool or silk. It wicks moisture and is temperature regulating, making it extremely comfortable to wear all year round. It has the tensile strength of wool. It’s anti-bacterial, making it a potential material for hospital bedding or bandages. It’s resistant to both chemicals and flames, offering possibilities for use in technical clothing or in upholstery.

And as for the moisturiser, which

Above (clockwise from top lef): Qmilk founder Anke Domaske; ingredients for the Qmilk biopolymer, which contains the milk protein casein; Qmilk Natural Skincare’s milk-based creams contain all-natural ingredients; the brand’s fashion modelled by Anastasia Bresler

S H O P | 35

Domaske’s stepfather swears by, milk proteins have now been shown to regulate acids in the skin. ‘The stories about Cleopatra bathing in ass’s milk have now been proven scientifically,’ says the designer, who, while conceding that the cosmetics industry is notorious for making all sorts of grand claims, says it also reduces redness and relieves itching. She speaks from personal experience. ‘I’ve had skin problems all my life and now I don’t. So I’m very happy with it,’ she says. The same can be said for her customers, some of whom get through a pot every month. ‘Part of the appeal is the product’s simplicity. You look at the ingredients in most cosmetics and, unless you’re trained in chemistry, it’s hard to know what any of them are. We add some natural oils and that’s it.

Like the fibre, part of society’s problem is that people use a lot of chemicals but don’t look into the benefits of natural products already there.’

Whether worn or rubbed in, Qmilk could hardly be a more timely example of what you can get when you do look into those benefits.

There is a demand for this kind of product now. ‘There have been two trends in clothing recently: one for less disposable clothing and one for thinking about quality and sustainable production methods,’ says Domaske. ‘And while the whole eco-friendly concept has had a dusty image, the last few years have seen that really change too. There’s a growing awareness of the chemicals used in both clothing and cosmetics – and a growing preference for not having them on our bodies.’

36 | G U I D E

THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hanover with a look at two of the city’s must-visit destinations: its historic gardens and a premier fine jewellery store. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.

PHOTO: XXXXXX PHOTO: HMTG

A Glimpse of Hanover

Above: Hanover’s Neues Rathaus (town hall) overlooks the Maschteich lake

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GOP VARIETÉ THEATRE

OR

UF

TRA

KÖ

G NI

THIELNPLATZ/ SCHAUSPIELHAUS HANOVER OPERA HOUSE

GE

NZ

HS

IBI

LEIBNIZ HOUSE

40 P RINZENST

LE

PAGE

38

HISTORICAL MUSEUM HANOVER

KRÖPCKE Kastens Hotel Luisenhof

PAGE

FF

SSE

HN

TR A

City Hotel Hanover

ERNSTAUGUSTMONUMENT

HI

CLEVERTOR

39

BA

RGS

Grand Hotel Mussmann

.

PAGE

GEO

SE

SC

39

AS

HANOVER MAIN STATION

PAGE

STEINTOR

RA

MARKTHALLE/ LANDTAG

L

AEGIDIEN CHURCH

E AV

S

L AL

B R E IT E

EE

FRIE

DRIC

HSW

AEGIDIENTORPLATZ M A RIENSTR A SSE

ST R .

A LL HI

Maritim Grand Hotel Hanover

LD

ES

HE IM

WATERLOO

ER STR

.

TRADE FAIR HANOVER

Place Of Interest

U-Bahn

Tourist Information

Outlet Village

Train Station

Hotel

38 | G U I D E

Bahnhofstrasse, Karmarschstrasse & Rathenaustrasse Ernst-August-Galerie SATURN ●

HLS

TR A

Galeria Kaufof SSE

● ESPRIT ● DESIGUAL ● MANGO ● NEW YORKER ● MOBILCOM DEBITEL ● APPLE ● HE BY MANGO ● L’TUR FOOT LOCKER ● ● TELEKOM SPARKASSE ● ● LÖWEN-APOTHEKE HUGENDUBEL ● ● BIBA GEO ● HUSSEL H&M ● RGS TR A ● O2

AS

TR

STR

FS

LER

HO

H IL

SE

MARC O’POLO ●

HST

S OLIVER ●

SE

S

GS

TR

DOUGLAS ●

AS

● LIEBE

P.23

Mäntelhaus Kaiser

GOP VARIETÉ THEATRE

SE

VON DER LINDE ●

HN

TR A

ENS

HANOVER OPERA HOUSE OR

AS

SSE

RS E

TR

TR A

A N DE R BÖ

RS

MA

VERO MODA ● TE

Peek & Cloppenburg

K AR

OS

R SC

ERNST-AUGUST-APOTHEKE ●

AU S

●S Ø ●J R UW ELI ER ●L DAV IW U ID C ’S O

HEN

ZERO ●

IZ A

SE

R AT

RAS

COS ● BLUE HOUSE ●

L U IS

KRÖPCKE

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

P.25

●L

●E ● T CCO ER NE ●B R U I:B E T L ER S L ● D LE E SI GN

SSE

SSE

BA

HN

SC

AS

SE

ME

GE

SELECTED SHOPS IN MÄNTELHAUS KAISER: Bogner

● AUST DRESS

A N D ER B ÖR

SE

TR

SC

KA

RM

BANG & OLUFSEN ●

● SPORTSCHECK

HS

MEISSEN ● ROSENTHAL STUDIO-HAUS ● MOTZIGKEIT ●

AS

LACOSTE ● VOGELSANG ●

SE

KRÖNER ● I:BELLE DESIGN ●

AR

SELECTED SHOPS IN ERNST-AUGUSTGALERIE: Bench Biba Bijou Brigitte Bose C&A Camel Christ Douglas Esprit Eterna Fossil G-Star Gerry Weber Geox Görtz H&M Horstmann & Sander Jack & Jones Kraemer Juwelier L’Occitane Levi’s Lloyd Lush P.25 Marc O’Polo Mexx Pieces Promod Reserved S Oliver Snipes Swarovski The Body Shop P.24 Thomas Sabo Tommy Hilfiger WMF

● CITY-APOTHEKE

● VILLEROY & BOCH

● WÄSCHEKÖRBCHEN

● THORENZ HIFI UND VIDEO

LOCAL TIP: DER ROTE FADEN

PHOTO: HMTG

The best way to learn more about Hanover’s fascinating history and discover the city’s key cultural attractions is on a walking tour. The Rote Faden (‘red thread’) is a route through the city designed with visitors in mind. The ‘red thread’ painted on the pavements of the suggested route is a helpful guide that leads walkers around Hanover’s architectural and historical monuments and attractions, including the imposing Rathaus (town hall) and the picturesque banks of the River Leine.

For more information, visit roterfaden-hannover.de Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Featured In This Issue

U-Bahn

Department Store

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 39

WEMPE Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eyecatching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This classic 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave.

Wempe, Georgstrasse 27, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 326988, wempe.com

ER

SE

AS TR FS

RS

TR

AS

SSE

C

SE

TE

SE

Café

TR A

SE

AS

OS

KR AMERS

HANOVER

A N D ER B ÖR

P.50

HOR

K NO CH E N H AU ERSTR A SSE

RA

TR

E

ST

GS

E

A SS

Peek & Cloppenburg

OPERA HOUSE A● NN ● DO GHT ● SS NI EN E ND EL R● E A JUW EA ● ● H I T N S RY W U S E ● RK A W E IM HO KL M XU PR E ●● SI E LU H O E O EC D E ● US S R AU ● HO RNER ● GIN MA O EL EM LF E ST VER ● B O I W ● G H S ER NO TC B ST ● ND TIK E HA ENIU PH ● RU J O I DA P E O TT R L ● M L RN CA LO C A TRIU SL ER WE AR OS BA CH SØR K● C ● U M A EIT Z ● ● W EKE ● DE ● N I H CE L D T R N O E O AN H ● AP N D YM IZ L ÉG N OT VO N R A E E H IBN N TT LE TIC AN BE S T TM R ● RS RS NDE O HO H SA & ER

OR

TR AS S

ST R

●C L AU DIO HE SCH ● UI N R I C H UH ND H E RD A M E N E REN R AT MO HEN DEN AUS TR A SSE JUWELIER ● SCHRADER

R SE

DR A

KRÖPCKE

GE

IE D ES

UH

AT Z

HO HN BA

ING RID W L TIS OT H A EIS ● CHK R JO U LT H N UR ●

SSE

Café Kröpcke

OST

T- P L

AN DE R B Ö

TR A

US

SE

RGS

UG

RAS

Y- W A

GEO

P.14

HN

BAB

E

&D RAH B L ●C STM UCHHA EHMA N ● &A ANN NDL NNS UNG &S FOR AN DE ● R● EVE R ESP 18 ● RIT STO ● C KH EUR SCH & M ● O PA UHE -A P ● ●L O Y E CO VES THE KE Q RO DOU CHER ● SID GL A S ● OT H E DEI ● H EL LO C H M S T E P ●● ERR ANN ENM BIJO ODE U BR PIMKIE ● ●W IGI N ● E ● G MPE FOS T TE ● KRA S ● C IS Y S C EME IL ● H R IS H U H APO ● R● E L LO P.24 H&M T -O THE BENE P TIK B O D T TO ● KAR N● YS M MA U H R SC TCH O P ● HST ● S S TA N G RAS TO R IBO SE E ●

LZ ●

LÖG OPI E ● TZ ●

H

E IL L

TR RS

S AS

NST

SSE

IS E

TR A

●A ● M LENA ON TBL AN LU

●H IRM

HLS

Karstadt

&F KER

ME

SC

SC H M

S CH

ST -A

N

B EC

ER

SCH ● A L IC K E P OT IS H EK ERE

Georgstrasse, Osterstrasse & Kröpckepassage

40 | G U I D E

Seilwinderstrasse, Grosse Packhofstrasse & Luisenstrasse SELECTED SHOPS IN GALERIE LUISE: Bree Sörens Gisy Schuhe Sansibar

ER

NS

HLS

TA

TR A

SSE H IL

L ER

STR

AS

SE

UG

US

T- P

LA

TZ

CHOPARD ● KAUFLUST ● MARC CAIN ● P.22 BOGNER ● HERMÉS ●

KRÖPCKE

E

A SS

SCHLÖSSER ● Galerie Luise PFEIFENSTUDIO MÜHLHAUSEN ● ● RENÉ LEZARD BANG & OLUFSEN ● ● HUNKEMÖLLER MONTBLANC ● ● PINOCCHIO ACCESSORIZE/ P.23 LOUIS ● ● TIMBERLAND PURPLE ● MONSOON

SS

R AT

● SALAMANDER

● ROLAND SCHUHE GS

TR AS

ST

RA

SS

E

● SSE

A U’S STR LIW E AT E R

SS

E

TH

SE

DEERBERG ●

S

L EI

.

TR R S ● SCHUH-NEUMANN E D

TR A

OR

BIJOU BRIGITTE ●

AUS

GE

● WMF ● ZARA

HEN

HANOVER OPERA HOUSE

● HALLHUBER

E

M

LUI

KHO

● WORMLAND

● BONITA

TR A

HI

R SE

OSTER S

GRO

GÖRTZ ●

AC

AN DE R B Ö

Karstadt Sports

SSE

PA C

GERRY WEBER ●

JO

SEN

SSE

STR

BA

SE

Karstadt

TR A

RAS

RGS

FST

GEO

HN

HO

FS

TR

AS

SC

Galeria Kaufof

SE

ME

SO P HI EN

I N ● MAX SPORTS HANNOVER W ● SIGNUM STORE

ST R AS SE

HERRENHÄUSER GÄRTEN

PHOTO: HMTG/ROSI RADECKE

The Herrenhäuser gardens are an integral part of Hanover’s history and well worth the short trip just outside the city. These internationally renowned gardens are considered to be among the most important in Europe. The baroque design of the Grosser Garten, inspired by Versailles, is particularly fine and features classical statuary and an imposing fountain.

There can be few more pleasant ways to spend a summer day in Hanover than wandering among the Grosser Garten’s impeccably clipped hedges.

Herrenhäuser Gärten, Herrenhäuser Strasse 4, 30419 Hanover, +49 (0)511 1683 4000,

hannover.de/herrenhausen

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

Place Of Interest

41

DAY TRIP DESIGNER OUTLETS WOLFSBURG Discover over 70 top international brands, from fashion, beauty and accessories to chocolate and porcelain, at Designer Outlets Wolfsburg – all reduced by up to 70% compared to recommended retail prices. The centre’s architecture is impressive, its boutiques are sophisticated, and service is friendly and expert – this convenient location offers an unforgettable shopping experience at reasonable prices.

Designer Outlets Wolfsburg, An der Vorburg 1, 38440 Wolfsburg, +49 (0)5361 893500, designeroutlets.com

WOLFSBURG CENTRAL STATION CENTRAL BUS STATION

VO R B U

RG

BERLINER RING

A N DER

Designer Outlets Wolfsburg

E L ST R A SSE

PO

R SC

H E S T R ASSE

DIE S

VFL-STADION

B ER LIN ER RI

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm Sunday and public WEG ELSTER holidays:

NG

selected dates, see website for details

HOW TO GET THERE...

By car From Hanover, take the A39 to Wolfsburg and turn off at the exit signposted West/ Autostadt. Once you reach the centre of town, follow the signs to Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.

Train Station

Bus Station

By bus All bus lines take you to the central bus station, which is located at the northern end of Porschestrasse, just a few metres from Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.

Arena

Outlet

By train Trains from Hanover take 30 minutes. Wolfsburg’s central station is just a two-minute walk from Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.

42

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofce details:

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Hamburg Airport Global Blue Refund Ofce, Terminal 2, departures, between gate A18/A20 Berlin Tegel Airport Cash Refund inside Service Centre, Terminal A Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, departures, landside Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 Frankfurt Am Main Airport Terminal 1, Hall B, level 2, landside Terminal 1, Hall B, level 2, behind passport control Terminal 2, Hall D, level 3, behind passport control Frankfurt Hahn Airport Travelex 46 / 49

48

E N G L I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文

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The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信 息，分享海外省钱秘笈

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

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44

TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: The Nature of Fashion

Природа Моды

В этом сезоне дизайнеры обратились за вдохновением к матери природе, сосредоточив внимание на смелых анималистических мотивах и классических цветочных узорах в современной интерпретации. Для теплой погоды этот тренд просто идеален, – считает Стивен Дойг От королевских садов Ганновера до берлинского парка Тиргартен и Английского сада в Мюнхене, протянувшегося более чем на четыре квадратных километра, – немецкие города с приходом весны начинает утопать в изумрудной зелени. Ослепительные парки составляют большую часть ландшафтов немецких городов, удивительно контрастируя с зеркальными небоскребами и живописной архитектурой. По мере того, как весна все глубже проникает в наши сердца и души, дизайнеры готовят цветочную революцию для нашего гардероба, главной темой которой будет природа и растительный мир. Это уже не первый раз, когда модельеры черпают вдохновение для весенне-летних коллекций в природной эстетике. Что отличает модные коллекций этого сезона, так это особая свежесть и яркость передачи образов естественного мира. «В центре внимания было столкновение культур», – сказал Ким Джонс за кулисами своего шоу-показа мужской коллекции весна-лето 2016 для Louis Vuitton. Коллекция объединила в себе восточную и западную эстетику. «Американское ретро тесно пересекалось с элементами азиатской культуры», – поясняет Джонс. Выразить такое единение полушарий помогла интерпретация экзотических даров тропической природы. Джонс известен своей страстью к путешествиям, и как следствие его шелковые рубашки и куртки бомберы пестрили globalblue.com

изображениями летящих аистов, цветущих вишен и милых обезьян, выглядывающих из бамбуковых зарослей. Джонс не перестает искать новые способы сделать мужские коллекции более яркими и жизнерадостными в противовес многим консерваторам моды, боящимся выйти за рамки стандартов и традиций. «Мне кажется, что наша манера одеваться заметно сместилась в сторону смелых, красочных принтов и приобрела более авантюрный оттенок, – говорит Билл Принц, заместитель главного редактора издания British GQ. – Цветочные и анималистские узоры явное тому доказательство». Зачем отправляться в рискованные путешествия по тропикам, если безупречные мужские коллекции Kim Jones могут подарить обладателю настоящий дух приключений?

Gucci и Алессандро Мишель продолжили преображать мужской гардероб с помощью плавных женских композиций и интерпретаций природных образов. На пиджаках теснились вышитые букеты, воротники пестрили гирляндными лентами, на свитерах с радужными швами гнездились тропические бабочки, а костюмы были усеяны стебельками, бутонами и тычинками. Похожая картина наблюдалась у Марка Джекобса, который оживил шелковые пижамные костюмы и рубашки красочными соцветиями и леопардовым принтом. Немецкие дизайнеры нисколько не уступили своим западным коллегам, а многие из них сами поддались очарованию «цветочного безумия». Модный дом Hugo Boss переосмыслил цветочные узоры в коллекциях женской одежды, добавив сизые и аспидные тона для контраста с пастельными оттенками и яркими пятнами абстрактных принтов. Знаменитый немецкий бренд Aigner воплотил флористику в жаккардовых тканях, создающих эффект трехмерности. Креативный директор Кристиан Бэк в свойственной ему

45

инновационной манере создал кружевной коктейль из морских звезд, крабов, осьминогов, водорослей и раковин. Мужские рубашки и шорты Jil Sander покрылись мириадами крошечных цветов, нарушивших давнюю минималистскую эстетику бренда. Чем дальше, тем более функциональным становится наш гардероб, и дело не только в совершенных тканях, но и в конструкции, дизайне и принтах. Такая тенденция, оставляющая позади замысловатые урбанистические элементы и довлеющая к открытому воздуху, природе и миру животных, похоже, говорит о нашем желании хоть как-то воссоединиться с той частью мира, которая все больше от нас ускользает. Как бы там ни было, природные мотивы смогут привнести долю остроумия и фантазии даже в самый простой элемент гардероба. Кто сможет остаться равнодушным при виде милого капуцина, удивленно выглядывающего из зарослей? Откликнетесь ли вы на зов природы в этом сезоне, зависит только от вас.

32: Got Milk?

Есть Молоко?

Анке Домаске и ее ганноверская компания Qmilk создают чудеса из отходов, – рассказывает Джош Симс Возможно, кому-то покажется, что наука и дизайн – две вещи несовместные. Но это лишь на первый взгляд. Анке Домаске изучала микробиологию, а в свободное время занималась дизайном, причем так успешно, что к 19 годам уже управляла собственным брендом, имеющим немалый успех в Японии. «Я понимала, что, в конечном счете, мне придется сделать выбор между моими увлечениями, однако впоследствии случилось нечто, что помогло мне объединить хобби и работу», – говорит ганноверский предприниматель. Этим нечто оказался ее отчим, страдающий от серьезного заболевания, которое спровоцировало аллергическую реакцию практически ко всем волокнам и одежде из его гардероба. Домаске провела исследование и нашла удивительное

решение – волокно, сделанное из молока. Она признает, что такая идея может показаться безумием. И правда, кому может прийти в голову мысль извлекать протеин из прокисшего молока и потом создавать из него волокно? Однако, посмотрев один из видеороликов на YouTube, она узнала, что эта идея не нова и была осуществлена в Германии в 1930-х годах. «Это было грандиозное открытие, но с появлением более простых и менее затратных технологии, таких как производство полиэстера, идея угасла, – поясняет она. – Именно поэтому немногие об этом слышали. Когда я стала детально изучать эту тему, я обнаружила, что даже в те времена производство не обходилось без массы химических добавок, в то время как мне хотелось найти нечто химически нейтральное. К сожалению, множество современных тканей, включая так называемые натуральные, проходят обработку пестицидами». После консультаций с различными экспертами, которые заявили, что волокна из натурального молока вряд ли получится создать, Домаске решила заняться производством самостоятельно. Потратив 200 евро на весь необходимый инвентарь – кастрюлю, миксер и кухонный термометр, она начала свое дело. «Я знала, что моя учеба должна мне помочь, поскольку работа с натуральными ингредиентами требует знания химических процессов, – поясняет она. – Сейчас я стала больше уважать производителей текстиля. Создание волокна, которое будет тоньше человеческого волоса и не разрушится при стирке, – процесс не из легких». После 10 месяцев экспериментов и испытаний ей удалось создать волокно Qmilk, одежда из которого появится в продаже в этом году. Параллельно она занималась исследованиями молочного протеина и перспективами его применения в косметической промышленности, результатом чего стал выпуск серии натуральных кремов на молочной основе. Как утверждает Дамаске, созданные ей волокна и крема обладают уникальными особенностями. Такое волокно можно

46

использовать для создания одежды из 100% молочной основы, а также смешать с хлопком или шелком. Оно не только может отводить влагу, но и служит регулятором температуры, что делает его невероятно удобной для использования круглый год. По прочности такая ткань не уступает шерсти, а ее антибактериальные свойства делают ее потенциальным материалом для производства больничного белья или бинтов. Ткань на молочной основе устойчива к воздействию химических веществ и пламени, что позволяет применять ее в спецодежде или обивке. Что касается крема, который неустанно нахваливает отчим Домаске, то входящий в его состав молочный протеин способствует регуляции кислотного баланса кожи. «Истории о Клеопатре и ее купаниях в ослином молоке теперь подтвердились научно» – говорит дизайнер. Еще недавно она считала, что косметическая индустрия лишь делает необоснованные утверждения, теперь же Домаске изменила свою точку зрения и, исходя из собственного опыта, уверяет в том, что крем может убрать покраснение и ослабить зуд. «До недавних пор у меня было много проблем с кожей, но сейчас все позади. Так что я очень довольна», – говорит она. То же самое можно сказать о ее клиентах, каждый месяц покупающих по баночке крема. «Привлекательность этого продукта в его простоте. Если взглянуть на этикетку большинства косметических средств, то ингредиенты с трудом можно прочитать. Все что мы добавляем в крем – это натуральные масла. Проблема нашего общества в том, что мы настолько привыкли к химическим веществам, что уже забыли о пользе натуральных средств». Продукция на основе Qmilk может служить прекрасным примером, того что нам пора вспомнить о пользе натуральных компонентов, подаренных самой природой. На такого рода продукцию уже сейчас есть большой спрос. «В последнее время в моде можно было наблюдать два тренда: один на одежду многократного использования и другой на качественные вещи, созданные по методу эко-производства, – говорит Домаске. globalblue.com

– И, несмотря на то, что эко-концепция уже далеко не нова, за последние несколько лет она набрала еще большую популярность. В обществе растет осведомленность о вреде применения химических веществ в одежде и косметике, также как и растет число людей, предпочитающих такую продукцию избегать».

42: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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美文翻译

26: The Nature of Fashion 时尚与大自然

从汉诺威举世闻名的海恩豪森王家花园中的青翠枝 叶，到柏林绵延的蒂尔加滕公园与慕尼黑占地900英 亩的英国花园，德国的城市在春日迸发出生机勃勃 的绿意。德国的公园是城市丰富景观的重要组成部 分，错落于各种摩天大楼与建筑架构之间更显夺目。 春天的到来不仅为我们的衣橱带来变化，设计师们 也将户外的春光引入室内，为时尚系列带来颂扬植 物与生命盛放的单品，令人心生暖意。 诚然，在春夏季节设计师们时常会从自然界汲 取美学灵感。然而在今年春天尤其值得一提的，是从 男装、女装到配饰全线，都可见到这种令人兴奋、富 含活力、充满新意的对自然界的诠释。 “这是文化之间的冲突，”Kim Jones在为路易 威登带来的2016春夏男装发布会后台表示。这个系 列将东西方美学嫁接。“这是复古美国风与亚洲美 学影响的融合，”Jones解释道。两者的结合，通过从 遥远东方异国情调中提取解构出热带自然元素来呈 现。Jones是一名公认的勇敢旅行家，他的设计中包 括印有鹳鸟的丝质夹克与衬衣，烂漫盛开的樱花图 案，还有从竹林中好奇地探出脑袋的卷尾猴；一切 都洋溢着欢乐。Jones持续不断地寻找新手法为自己 的男装系列注入生命力与色彩，而这个领域传统上 来说，通常追求的是安全与标准，而非大胆与印花。 “我认为有一股潮流的力量，推动我们的着装向 充满活力的、鲜活的印花，与更具冒险精神的设计发 展，”英国版GQ杂志副主编Bill Prince表示。“植物 印花与图案之流毫无疑问与这股潮流相契合。”既然 Kim Jones无可挑剔的男装带给你冒险的乐趣，谁 还需要去丛林探险？ 在Gucci，Alessandro Michele仍致力于以自 己流线型、女性化的设计改革男装设计的图景，并利 用自然的力量加以诠释。刺绣花朵环绕于西服之上， 领口周围的花边上缝有花环，毛衣上点缀着飞舞的 蝴蝶，彩虹般的花柄、根茎、花瓣与花蕊印花绽放于 西装上。在Marc Jacobs品牌同样如此，花朵与些许 豹纹印花装点着丝绸睡衣与衬衫。 德国的设计师们也不甘示弱；他们中的大多数 都加入了赞颂野生美好事物的行列。Hugo Boss在 女装系列中重新演绎了花朵印花，使用柔和的鸽子 色与板岩色调，与柔和的糖果色或大胆的抽象印

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

从大胆的动物图腾到以创新手法演绎的经典纹样， 本季设计师们纷纷向自然界寻求灵感，对愈加温 暖的气候而言，这一趋势堪称完美。Stephen Doig 报道

花形成令人耳目一新的对比效果。在德国经典品牌 Aigner，花朵以提花工艺手法呈现，赋予其三维立 体感。创意总监Christian Beck大胆创新，从海底生 物中获得灵感，在花边中织入海星、螃蟹、章鱼、海 藻和贝壳等图案。在 Jil Sander，男装衬衣与短裤被 装饰以微型花朵，对这个以极简美学著称的品牌而 言，可谓是相当罕见的繁复奢华。 如今我们的衣橱变得越发有技术含量，不仅体 现于面料，也同样体现于构造、设计与印花中。这一 从纷繁复杂的事物与以城市中心，向户外、大自然以 及与动物相处的转变，透露着我们想在细微之处与 那部分渐行渐远的世界相连接的渴望。无论出于什 么原因，这些以自然为灵感的印花和图案赋予最标 准化的单品智慧与趣味——还有比探出脑袋张望的 卷尾猴更能引人一笑的吗？请尽情拥抱本季野趣的 呼唤。你的衣柜亦会对你感激不尽。

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32: Got Milk? 牛奶亦时尚

Anke Domaske在她位于汉诺威的公司Qmilk中， 将他人的垃圾变废为宝、创造神奇。Josh Sims报道 人们或许会认为，这是生活中两个完全没有交集的 领域。Anke Domaske学习微生物学，同时在闲暇 时间进行时装设计，并获得巨大成功，19岁时她的自 有品牌就畅销日本。“我想最终我不得不在两者之间 做出选择，然而突然间出现了将两者结合的契机，” 这位驻扎于汉诺威的创业者表示。那个契机就是她 的继父罹患了一系列重大疾病，并发现自己突然对 自己衣物中的许多纤维过敏。Domaske经过调查研 究后，给出一套令人惊讶的解决方案：用牛奶制成 的纤维。 她承认这听起来是非常疯狂的想法：利用不适 合人类饮用的废弃牛奶，通过提取加工其中的酪蛋 白以制成纤维。然而，她在YouTube视频平台上发 现，早在1930年代的德国就有人做过类似的事情。“ 这在当时轰动一时，直到被制作简易且成本低廉的 聚酯纤维取代，”她解释道。“这就是为何如今很少有 人听说过这种纤维。但当我进行研究后发现，即便在 当时，这种纤维的生产工序中也包含化学浸泡。而我 追求的是去除化学成分。在今日有诸多织物，即便宣 称是天然的，也在加工过程中施加各种化学试剂。 在接触各方面专家后得到的答案是，要完全无化 学介入制造牛奶蛋白纤维是不可能的，Domaske决 定亲自放手一试。她用大桶，搅拌器与花200欧元从 杂货店买来的果酱温度计，在厨房桌边开始了实验。“ 我认为我的研究对人们很有帮助，因为即便你使用天 然成分的产品，在加工过程中仍有化学过程发生，” 她解释。“如今我对纺织品制造商有了更多尊重。制 造比头发丝还细、可以耐得住洗衣机清洗的纤维，是 极其不易的。” 经过10个月的实验，她创造出Qmilk 纤维，用其 制成的服装将从今年起上市销售。她同时还在护肤 品领域探索牛奶蛋白的潜力，经过三年的发展，建立 起一条全天然牛奶基底乳霜产品线。 无论是纤维还是润肤霜，Domaske声称，都表 现出卓越的特性。这种纤维不仅可以制成100%以牛 奶为原材料的布料，也可与羊毛或蚕丝等材质无形 融合。它能够保持水分、调节温度，在一年四季穿戴 都表现出绝佳舒适性。这种纤维具有羊毛的抗张强 度。而它的抗菌性能，使其成为医用床品与绷带的潜 在原材料。它的耐化学品与防火特性，同样为其在科 技服饰或家居布艺领域的运用带来可能。 至于Domaske的继父也在使用的保湿霜，牛奶 蛋白如今已被证明能调节肌肤酸碱度。“埃及艳后用 驴奶沐浴的故事，如今已被科学证实，”设计师表示， globalblue.com

她在批判护肤品行业以各种夸大其词而臭名昭著的 同时，强调自己的产品同时可以缓解红肿与止痒。她 以个人体验背书。“我过去一直都有皮肤问题，但如今 已不再受其困扰。所以我对该产品非常满意，”她表 示。许多她的顾客也有同样体会，有些人每月都用一 大罐。“吸引力部分来自于产品的单纯性。除非你是 接受过化学训练的专业人士，否则去看多数化妆品的 成分表，都看不出所以然。而我们只在产品中添加一 些天然油脂，仅此而已。就像牛奶纤维一样，当今社 会的一大问题是，人们大量使用化学物质，却忽视天 然产品已然存在的功效。” 无论是穿在身上还是涂在脸上，Qmilk是帮助人 们获得这种天然功效的最佳实例。这类产品的需求 如今与日俱增。“在制衣行业近期有两大趋势：一是 减少生产一次性服装，一是反思品质与可持续生产 方式，”Domaske指出。“虽说从整体而言环保概念已 经是老生常谈，但在过去几年中变化着实在发生着。 在服装与护肤领域，人们对于化学品使用的关注日 益增长——也越发倾向于不使其接触自己的身体。”

42: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。

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‫ٍ‬ ‫كنقيض حيوي لللوان الخفيفة‬ ‫مستخدماً ألواناً باهتة وداكنة وذلك‬ ‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫الهذّبة أو النقوش التجريديّة البارزة‪ .‬أ ّما ف الدار اللان ‪،Aigner‬‬ ‫‪The Nature of Fashion: 26‬‬ ‫فتجسدت الورود ف قمش جاكار وظهرت ثلثيّة البعاد‪ .‬استوحى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫طبيعة الموضة‬ ‫فجسد نجمة‬ ‫مدير البتكار ‪ Christian Beck‬من عال البحار ّ‬ ‫البحر والسلطعون واللّوامس والطحالب والصداف ف أقمشة‬ ‫من الشكال البارزة الستوحاة من الحيوانات إل التصاميم البتكرة مخ ّرمة‪ .‬ولدى ‪ ،Jil Sander‬ترقّطت القمصان والشورتات‬ ‫الرجاليّة بأزها ٍر صغ”ة ف موج ِة ٍ‬ ‫الرتكزة عل الزهار‪ ،‬يلجأ الص ّممون هذا الوسم إل الطبيعة‬ ‫طيش نادرة بالنسبة إل علمة‬ ‫باحثي عن اللهام‪ .‬إنّها الوضة الثاليّة لنا ٍخ أكث دفئاً‪ ،‬عل ح ّد‬ ‫تجاريّة تُع َرف بأسلوبها البسيط‪ .‬يدخل عنص التقنيّة أكث فأكث‬ ‫إل ملبسنا‪ ،‬ليس من حيث القمشة فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً عل‬ ‫تعبي ‪Stephen Doig‬‬ ‫كل‬ ‫ولربا كان البتعاد عن ّ‬ ‫مستوى الهيكل والتصميم والرسوم‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ما هو معقّد و ُمدُن والتق ّرب من الساحات الخارجيّة والطبيعة‬ ‫من خُضة حدائق ‪ Herrenhäusen‬العاليّة الشهرة ف‬ ‫يعب خ” تعب” عن رغبتنا بالتواصل بطريق ٍة ما مع‬ ‫هانوفر إل حديقة ‪ Tiergarten‬الشاسعة ف برلي وحديقة‬ ‫والحيوانات ّ‬ ‫ذلك الجزء الخر من العال‪ .‬مهم كانت السباب‪ ،‬تضفي هذه‬ ‫‪ Englischer Garten‬عل امتداد ‪ 900‬هكتار ف ميونخ‪،‬‬ ‫حساً من الفكاهة والغرابة‬ ‫يكسو الخضار مدن ألانيا ف الربيع ُم ِبزا ً حيويّتها‪ .‬تشكّل‬ ‫الرموز والرسوم الستوحاة من الطبيعة ّ‬ ‫منتزهات ألانيا جزءا ً كبيا ً من مساحات الدن ويزداد رونقها بجوار حتّى إل أكث القطع التزاماً بالعاي”؛ فمن بإمكانه رسم ابتسامة‬ ‫لب نداء البيّة‬ ‫سحاب شاهقة ل ّاعة وأعملً هندسيّة مبتكرة‪ .‬ونتيجة‬ ‫ناطحات‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫أكث من قر ٍد فر ٍح يستق النظر من بي الشج”ات؟ ّ‬ ‫هذا الوسم فتُ ِ‬ ‫سد مجموعة ملبسك معروفاً‪.‬‬ ‫التغيي الذي يُحدثه الربيع ف مجموعات ملبسنا أيضاً‪ ،‬ل يسعنا‬ ‫إل أن نلحظ ما يقوم به الص ّممون من خلل حمل الطبيعة إل‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫الداخل‪ ،‬مازجي أسلوبنا بقطعٍ ترتكز عل النبات والزهار‪.‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 42‬‬ ‫غالباً ما يستخرج الص ّممون من الطبيعة عناص جمليّة‬ ‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫لجموعات الربيع‪/‬الصيف‪ .‬واللفت للنتباه ف ملبس الرجال‬ ‫والنساء والكسسوارات ف الربيع هو ترجمتها البارزة للعال‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫الطبيعي‪ .‬قال ‪ Kim Jones‬ف كواليس عرض أزياء ‪Louis‬‬ ‫‪ Vuitton‬الرجاليّة لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪“ :2016‬تحورت الجموعة حول دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫صاع الثقافات”‪ .‬دمجت بي العايي الجمليّة الشقيّة والغربيّة‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫وأضاف‪“ :‬تحورت حول الرث الم”ك مع بعض التأث”ات‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫السيويّة‪ ”.‬وقد ت ّم التعب” عن هذا الدمج من خلل رموز الطبيعة دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫الستوا“يّة ف أماكن بعيدة فريدة من نوعها‪ .‬يشتهر ‪Jones‬‬ ‫بأسفاره الغامرة وقد تض ّمنت تصاميمه طيورا ً تجتاح ست ٍ‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫ات‬ ‫تطل بفضو ٍل من خلف‬ ‫حريريّة وقمصاناً وأزهار كر ٍز تتفتّح و ِقردة ّ‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أوراق الخيزران‪ .‬ولطالا وجد ‪ Jones‬طرقاً جديدة ليبعث الحياة‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫واللوان ف مجموعاته الرجاليّة‪ ،‬وهو مجال أزياء ييل بالعادة إل أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫السلوب المن واللتزام بالعاي” بدلً من اعتمد الجرأة والرسوم‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪ ،Bill Prince‬نا“ب مح ّرر ‪“ :British GQ‬أعتقد‬ ‫أنّنا نتّجه إل طريقة ٍ‬ ‫وحس الغامرة‪ .2 .‬أطلب‬ ‫لبس حيويّة مفعمة بالنقوش ّ‬ ‫ول ّ‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫شك أ ّن النقوش والصور الرتبطة بالنبات تشكّل جزءا ً منها‪”.‬‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫فمن قد يطمح بعد اليوم إل نزهة ف الدغال ف حي يكنه‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫بحس الغامرة من خلل ملبس ‪ Kim Jones‬الرجاليّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشعور ّ‬ ‫الرا“عة؟‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬ ‫استم ّر ‪ Alessandro Michele‬لدى ‪ Gucci‬بثورته‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫ف مجال اللبس الرجاليّة من خلل تصاميمه النثويّة النسيابيّة‬ ‫ال ُتجمة عب ق ّوة الطبيعة‪ .‬التفّت الباقات بشكلٍ حلزون عل طول ‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬ ‫البدلت و ُدرِزت الكاليل عل القمش الخ ّرم حول الياقات فيم‬ ‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫رفرفت الفراشات عل القمصان وتزيّنت البدلت ببتلت وجذوع‬ ‫أزهار ناصعة اللوان‪ .‬ل يكن الوضع مختلفاً لدى ‪ Marc Jacobs‬عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫الذي أضاف إل بعض بدلته وقمصانه الحريريّة أزهارا ً وبعض‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫نقوش الفهد‪.‬‬ ‫ول يتف ّوق أحد عل الص ّممي اللان ف هذا الجال‪ ،‬إذ‬ ‫كل ما هو غريب ومذهل‪ .‬أعاد دار‬ ‫شارك البعض منهم ف ترسيخ ّ‬ ‫‪ Hugo Boss‬تخيّل رسوم الزهور ف مجموعته للملبس النسا“يّة‬

50 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

BAGS OF STYLE Bucket bags make a big comeback this season and can be found in a wide range of fabrics and colours. This beige and cognac example from German brand PB 0110 was created by Philipp Bree, who launched the label in 2013 in Berlin and Paris. He has since collaborated with many respected creatives all over the world, including Andreas Murkudis in Berlin and Steven Alan Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 42

in New York. The details are a focal point for the spring/summer 2016 collection, which uses silver fittings both in the bags’ construction and as decorative elements. Munich artist and designer Ayzit Bostan offers formal new designs in the women’s collection. fm PB 0110 shoulder bag, €699, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, pb0110.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 39

Now in Hanover BOGNER HANOVER

Luisenstr. 9

bogner.com