SHOP Berlin SS15

BERLIN | БЕРЛИН | 柏林 | ‫برلي‬

BERLIN

Page 52

Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015

LEVEL BEST: discover the shops and attractions in Berlin’s latest malls

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 28

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit!

Kurfürstendamm 215, T +49.(0)30.882 68 78 berlin.kurfuerstendamm@wempe.de Friedrichstraße 82, T +49.(0)30.20 39 99 20 berlin.friedrichstraße@wempe.de Rolex Boutique Kurfürstendamm 184, T +49.(0)30.55 66 90 10 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

Berlin Friedrichstraße 176-179 Kurfürstendamm 45

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa.

In unseren Berliner Geschäften am Kurfürstendamm und in der Friedrichstraße erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke und ein erstklassiger Service.

Welcome to Bucherer,

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS

a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Berlin stores located at Kurfürstendamm and at Friedrichstrasse you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

und viele mehr and many more

B E R L I N - K U R F Ü R S T E N DA M M 2 17, M Ü N Z S T R A S S E 21 - 23

For more than a century the KaDeWe has been regarded as one of the world’s leading department stores, comparable to premier establishments such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris or Harrods in London. It ofers an exquisite and exclusive shopping experience, and is an outstanding innovator in generating new ideas for the department stores of the 21st century.

KaDeWe shows a keen eye and excellent intuition in spotting future trends as well as selecting exclusive products, which are presented in artfully decorated window displays. KaDeWe ofers the ultimate shopping experience on eight foors and a total foor space of 64,000 m². Te ground foor includes the beauty department, along with 4,000 m² devoted to luxury labels, watches and jewellery, along with a full range of high-end accessories from international brands such as Céline, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, Dior, Prada, Miu Miu, Fendi, Tod’s, Tifany & Co., Bulgari, Vertu, Chopard and Saint Laurent.

The Luxury Boulevard and Beauty department on the ground foor include a full range of international high-end brands such as Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Prada and many more.

Te designer and fashion sections located on the 1st (men’s apparel) and 2nd (women) foor are spread over 20,000 m² and satisfy all your fashion needs.

The 3rd floor delights you with a world entitled “The Lof”. Tis area shows an impressive women’s shoe department and an extensive handbag and accessories section. A new undergarments, lingerie and hosiery department alongside an area for highquality children’s wear complete the 3rd foor.

The Home & Living area on the 4th floor features an exquisite collection of products to meet all your needs in these areas. Te 5th foor is the place to fnd high-quality writing utensils, luggage, fine leather goods for business and a gifs shop. Te 1,250 m² toy department is certain to make any child’s heart beat faster.

On the 6th floor you will find Europe’s largest gourmet food selection. Discerning customers can choose from over 34,000 products, including 3,400 wines from around the world, a fne assortment of champagne, 1,300 varieties of cheese and around 1,200 deli sausage and ham specialities, as well as an assortment of 450 pralines. This is complimented by an exclusive selection of fish and other seafood specialities, the legendary KaDeWe oyster bar and over 30 other gourmet stands.

SERV IC ES

T I ME IS A LUXU RY NOWA DAYS , S O LET U S MAKE T IME FOR YOU !

PERS ONAL SHOPPER We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to KaDeWe. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. Afer an informal discussion and a thorough image consultation, we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso.

For further information, please contact us on +49 30 2121 2554 or E-Mail: vip-service@kadewe.com

In addition, the KaDeWe is delighted to ofer you many other exklusive services, such as: P ORT ER Our porter is available during the week from midday and on Saturdays from 11 am. He will carry your shopping for you free of charge from the checkout to your car in the car park or to your taxi. If required, please speak to our checkout assistants.

CLOAKRO OM AN D LUG G AGE STOR AG E You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping at our Service Centre on the 3rd foor free of charge - 20 m across from the bridge on the 3rd Floor to the car park 1.

For further information, please contact +49 30 2121 2506.

GI FT-W R APPING SERV IC ES Our expertise is to make even the smallest gif stand out. Te packing/gif-wrapping service is in the Service Center on the 3rd Floor (bridge to car park I). Personalised packaging requests can be carried out at an extra cost on the 6th foor.

BEAUT Y LOUNGES & SERVIC ES Te exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure, a new Make-up or a perfect hair-styling, all beauty treatments are carried out at KaDeWe with total care and professionalism. For further information, contact our customer service.

C OM PLI MENTARY WI FI Simply log-in while you are visiting the KaDeWe and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.

CUSTOMER SERV IC ES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from KaDeWe, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the 5th foor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you.

For further information, please call +49 30 2121 2053.

TOURS OF T HE LEGEN DARY KA DEW E Explore the legendary KaDeWe and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our customer service too book your personal tour (Phone: +49 30 2121 2053).

TA X F R EE AVA IL A BL E AT EAC H C ASH P OIN T. I MMEDIATE C ASH BAC K ON T H E 5 T H F LO OR .

Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.

KaDeWe Berlin ∙ Tauentzienstraße 21 - 24 ∙ 10789 Berlin ∙ Telefon +49 30 2121 0 ∙ www.kadewe.de Opening Hours: Mon - Tur 10 am – 8 pm, Fri 10 am – 9 pm, Sat 9.30 am – 8 pm

CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Berlin Einkaufszentrum Hallen am Borsigturm (Tegel) · Eastgate Center Berlin · Einkaufszentrum Das Schloss (Steglitz) · Forum Köpenick Gesundbrunnen-Center (Wedding) · Gropius-Passagen (Neukölln) · Boulevard Berlin · Leipziger Platz Quartier · Havel-Park (Dallgow) · Potsdamer Platz Arkaden · Shoppingcenter Alexa · Spandau Arcaden · Tauentzienstraße 21-24 (inside KaDeWe) · Wilmersdorfer Arcaden

CHRIST DIAMONDS 𒥆કDŽ 200 ໮䒐 CHRIST ϧप刧𗥓偹ᖋ㊁ˈ ҹܼᮄᮍᓣᛳফ𙂇⷇儙⅙

www.christ.de

CHRIST ᇞѿ𑀗𖠗 0180/5 32 10 98˄ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 0.14 ⃻‫ܗ‬ ⃻‫ܗ‬/ߚ䩳 ߚ䩳˗ ⿏ⅲ𑀗𖠗𗅶𗅥玀𠙒 0.42 ⃻‫ܗ‬ ⃻‫ܗ‬/ߚ䩳˅ ߚ䩳˅*ଂӋ呥𖠢 ଂӋ呥𖠢 ** ⱑ㡆ǃᇣ‫╙ݙ‬⠽⡍呡ǃӬ㡃ߛ偉

▔垅DŽᖋ㊁ࠊ䗴DŽ

14

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Welcome to Berlin Maybe you’re already familiar with Berlin, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this cosmopolitan German city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover the Mall of Berlin and Bikini Berlin in our feature on page 52, fnd out about the designs revealed at Berlin Fashion Week (page 60) and explore some of the city’s most stunning restaurants and bars (see page 72).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Berlin. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@shopcontent

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris 巴黎 Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Руководство Германия

OYS TER PER PE TUA L MILG AUS S

BERLIN AM ALEXANDER-PLATZ Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof A huge store packed with exclusive brands and the latest trends in a setting which combines tradition with modernity. Experience an inspiring variety of product displays which cover an area of 36,000 m² and make shopping a pleasure. Visit one of Europe`s most state-of-the-art department stores in the heart of Berlin, surrounded by sightseeing highlights: the television tower, Hackescher Markt, Museum Island, Gendarmenmarkt and Brandenburger Gate. Enjoy the view on the Red Town Hall or Alexanderplatz from our restaurant. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Berlin, Alexanderplatz.

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

Beauty and more … visit Europe’ No. 1 perfumery!

W E W ILL BE PLE A SED TO W ELCOME YOU TO T H E D OU GL A S WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN BE RLIN : • Tauentzienstraße 16, 030 - 21475516 • Kurfürstendamm 33, 030 - 8835065 • Unter den Linden 16, 030 - 206156710

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Explore our world of beauty!

20

ILLUSTRATION: ELIN SVENSSON

CONTRIBUTORS

Verity Hogan History graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism.

Verity now works as SHOP’s features editor. globalblue.com

Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies.

For the latest edition of SHOP Berlin, she takes a look at the city’s latest malls. Gwyneth is a founder of the fashion trends service Unique Style Platform.

Elin Svensson Illustrator Elin Svensson created this season’s cover for SHOP Berlin. Her thoughtful and thorough approach to concepts made her the perfect choice for this cover, based on a perfect day in one of Berlin’s supermalls.

It shows a visitor enjoying the diferent activities available in a typical mall, starting in the morning in a salon and ending in the evening at a delicatessen. Read more about Berlin’s malls on page 52. Elin has previously created work for Time Out, the Guardian and Varoom Magazine among others.

Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Isabella Redmond Styles Isabella Redmond Styles, SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor, studied at the London College of Fashion and has written for publications including the Daily Mail, Hufngton Post and Easy Living.

POWER RESERVE, PRECISION AND UNCOMPROMISING PASSION

The Noramis Power Reserve combines classic design with features to suit the modern lifestyle:The power-reserve indicator shows the status of the 42-hour power reserve at all times.This complex yet elegant function is framed by a stainless-steel case, rose-gold detailing and an anthracite-coloured dial.

The highly intricate skeletonised rotor, premium-quality automatic movement and screw-on case-back with sapphire crystal bear the unmistakable and sophisticated hallmark of the brand.

A timepiece for German watchmaking enthusiasts - precise, timeless and beautiful.

GERMAN ART WATCHMAKING – 1893

NORAMIS POWER RESERVE

www.union-glashuette.com

Berlin, Charlottenburg · Hermannplatz · Kurfürstendamm · Müllerstraße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our Karstadt stores in Berlin.

· Schloßstraße · Spandau · Tempelhof

24

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh

Cover illustrator Elin Svensson

Online production assistant Marina Nelson

Contributors Gwyneth Holland, Maria Kirchen-Hill Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He

Features editor Verity Hogan

Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu

City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles

Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Assistant fashion and news editor Gemma Latham Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey

Print Dane Consultancy

Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline

Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter

Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.de

Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

Creative editor/Deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts

Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind

Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova

Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby

Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia

Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice

Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

GANT STORES BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN BUDAPESTER STR. 4 4 & QUARTIER 206 FRIEDRICHSTR. 71 MALL OF BERLIN LEIPZIGER PL ATZ W W W.GANT.COM

26

CONTENTS

PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU/FRANZ BRÜCK

p.52

P ROD U C T S 30 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Berlin this season 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 40 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Berlin 42 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Above: Bikini Berlin mall and the 25hours hotel

F E AT U R E S 52 Cover Story: Marvellous Malls Berlin’s latest mall openings, Bikini Berlin and the Mall of Berlin, are helping to make the city one of Europe’s best shopping locations, says Gwyneth Holland 60 World Class Berlin Fashion Week is increasingly ofering a global perspective as international designers make their mark on the city’s catwalks. Sally McIlhone reports 66 Guerilla Chic Kaviar Gauche broke into the fashion world a decade ago and is still bringing a touch of rock ’n’ roll rebellion to the style establishment, as Verity Hogan discovers

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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 72 Table Talk Berlin’s design expertise extends to its restaurants and bars, as Isabella Redmond Styles fnds out GU I DE 77 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Berlin, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights MY WEEKEND 94 SHOP shares the highlights of an indulgent short break in Berlin

ESSENTI A LS 97 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 99 Русский Перевод 104 美文翻译 109 日本語翻訳 113 SOU V E N I R 114 The essential item to bring home

E N GL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

ONLINE

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu

@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

Berlin: FriedrichstraĂ&#x;e 158-164, KurfĂźrstendamm 213, LP12 Mall of Berlin

30 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

PAST MEETS PRESENT This season Massimiliano Giornetti, creative director at Salvatore Ferragamo, delved into the archives of the Italian fashion house, pulling out some of the most important facets of Salvatore Ferragamo designs over the decades and reimagining them for 2015. A perfect ft for a ready-to-wear collection emphasising long, elegant body lines, these chunky wedge heels look very contemporary, yet are based Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 97

on Salvatore Ferragamo’s rainbow sandals created more than 75 years ago. The updated shoe is available in a variety of neutral shades and sandal styles, including this on-trend mule shape, while all versions feature the memorable textured heel of the original. In powder pink with a textured beige sole, this version may not be as eye-catching as the multicoloured original, but it is just as brilliant a design. hl Salvatore Ferragamo wedge heels, ₏895, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tauentzienstrasse 21, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2121 2034, ferragamo.com * for map go to page 83

32 | P RO D U C T S

ALL THAT GLITTERS

3

Go for gold with these key pieces

1

1. Cartier ring, €13,100, Cartier, Kurfürstendamm 188-189, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 886 7060, cartier.com 2. Montblanc Bohème Date Automatic watch, €8,500, Montblanc, Friedrichstrasse 80, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2038 8350, montblanc.com

4

5

3. Cos blazer, €89, Cos, Friedrichstrasse 83, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2005 8841, cosstores.com

5. Jimmy Choo Dulsa sandals, €675, KaDeWe, Tauentzientrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4980 7503, jimmychoo.com

4. Boucheron Quatre hoop earrings, €11,250, Galeries Lafayette, Französische Strasse 23, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 209480, boucheron.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 97

PHOTOS: (1) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER; (5) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

2

S H O P | 33 6

7

8

6. Mango dress, €33.99, Mango, Kurfürstendamm 19-24, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8872 6863, mango.com

globalblue.com

7. Filippa K purse, €165, Filippa K, Kurfürstendamm 29, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8847 2650, flippa-k.com

8. MCM backpack, €3,815, MCM, Kurfürstendamm 186, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 881 1104, mcmworldwide.com

34 | P RO D U C T S

SPORTING CHANCE

4

Get a head start on this season’s trends with these fashionable fnds 3

2

1. Z Zegna sneakers, €295, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kurfürstendamm 185, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8871 9090, zegna.com 2. Barbour jacket, €699, Barbour, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 39, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2345 6828, barbour.com

5

3. Wood Wood bag, €85, Wood Wood, Rochstrasse 4, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2804 7877, woodwood.dk 4. Gucci T-shirt, €350, Gucci, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2196 7058, gucci.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 97

5. Diesel jeans, €340, Diesel, Kurfürstendamm 17, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8855 1453, diesel.com

PHOTOS: (3) BRIAN BUCHARD; (4) GUCCIO GUCCI SPA/FABIO PIANIGIANI; (5) MARCO TONNI

1

POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN · ALTE POTSDAMER STR. 7 · 10785 BERLIN · 030 - 259 36 79-0 KRANZLER ECK · KURFÜRSTENDAMM 19 · 10719 BERLIN · 030 - 88 71 819-0

36 | P RO D U C T S

PRETTY PASTELS

2

Indulge your feminine side with delicate colours this spring and summer

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3

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1. Acne dress, €750, Acne, Weinmeisterstrasse 2, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9700 5187, acnestudios.com 2. Hermès bangles, from €357, Hermès, Kurfürstendamm 58, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3270 8375, hermes.com

3. Cruba Bress jacket, €285, Cruba, Auguststrasse 28/Grosse Hamburger Strasse, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2607 6678, cruba-berlin.com 4. Chopard watch, €37,040, Chopard, Kurfürstendamm 186-187, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 7009 6980, chopard.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 97

5. Tod’s loafers, price on request, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2191 6444, tods.com

PHOTO: (2) © VICENTE SAHUC

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S H O P | 37

MARVELLOUS MAROON

3

Discover this sumptuous shade for a grown-up approach to purple 1

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1. Miu Miu bag, €1,400, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2145 8370, miumiu.com 2. Escada Sport jacket, €420, Escada, Friedrichstrasse 176-179, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 238 6404, escada.com

globalblue.com

3. Bally Asyia-P sneakers, €695, Bally, Kurfürstendamm 52, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8870 7688, bally.com

4. Burberry dress, €1,795, Burberry, Kurfürstendamm 183, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 885 4811, burberry.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Berlin Kurfürstendamm 227–229 • Alexanderplatz 1 • Leipziger Platz 12/13 • Steglitz, Schlossstraße 17a

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

‫هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟‬ ،‫ ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة‬.C&A ‫إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت‬ ‫ وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في‬.‫من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة‬ ‫ لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات‬.‫محلتنا‬ . ‫والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان‬

40 | N E W S

PHOTO: WHITELIGHTBERLIN.DE

SHOP WINDOW

ONE OF A KIND When Rianna Kounou met Nina Kuhn at a trade show in 2013, they instantly bonded over their shared love of vintage fashion and colourful fabrics. Today they run their own label, Rianna + Nina, which specialises in unique pieces made from vintage silk scarves.

Production is split between a small, familyowned factory in Greece and experienced tailors in Berlin, ensuring high levels of quality and craftsmanship and, whether a bag, kaftan globalblue.com

or cushion, you can be sure that the item you buy will be one of a kind. The women also have a boutique in Berlin of the same name where, alongside the Rianna + Nina line, visitors will also fnd an eclectic selection of clothing and interiors by other designers such as Kaete Lilo and Hallelujah. With Kounou’s styling experience and Kuhn’s background in fashion marketing, the women are set to leave their mark on the city’s shopping landscape. th Rianna + Nina, Steinstrasse 4, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2887 9122, riannaandnina.com * for map go to page 92

BR A N D S Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...

PHOTO: YVES SUCKSDORFF

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BOOKS AND BEYOND Popular Berlin collective Gestalten, which was set up 20 years ago, has recently added to its outlets in the city with a concept store at Bikini Berlin. Having started life in 1995 as a publisher of books about all things creative, Gestalten now embraces a wide array of goods. Ranging from home accessories to jewellery, and from magazines to artworks, all are selected for their originality. Gestalten Pavilion is also home to a charming café serving modern refreshments inspired by Berlin and sourced from leading local purveyors. Where better to take a break during a busy day’s shopping? hl Gestalten Pavilion, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 38-50, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2655 8823, gestalten.com * for map go to page 83

JEAN GENIUS After its successful popup stores in the city, denim specialist Denham has just opened its frst permanent shop in Berlin. The spacious boutique is home to the Dutch label’s full range of premium fve-pocket denim pieces as well as to its readyto-wear collections for men and women. The brand has quickly gained a reputation for excellence in cut, ft and quality, balancing cool urban style with comfort and durability. Following on from

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the hand-washing services in the brand’s Amsterdam and Tokyo shops, the Berlin fagship store will ofer on-site and speedy repairs and washes by a team of enthusiastic experts. Denham’s signature aesthetic of clean modernism accentuated by vintage elements looks as fresh as ever in this store, and is complemented by museumlike displays of the label’s most accomplished pieces. hl Denham, Blue Yard, Münzstrasse 21, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4004 4281, denhamthejeanmaker.com * for map go to page 92

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WORLD OF LEICA Leica’s Berlin store ofers the brand’s full range of photography and sport optics products. Experienced members of staf are on hand to provide guidance and demonstrations for photographers looking to buy a Leica camera for the frst time, upgrade to a newer model or expand their collection of lenses and accessories.

A new addition to the Leica X family, the X-E model combines technical prowess with an elegant design and makes an ideal travelling companion thanks to its lightweight yet robust metal casing. A fast lens and large sensor with over 16.5 megapixels, combined with a simple operating system, makes this a compact camera capable of capturing detailed images at spontaneous moments. Pay a visit to discover the perfect camera to match your photographic aspirations. gl Leica, Fasanenstrasse 71, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5036 1666, leica-camera.com * for map go to page 83

PHOTO: ZAJACZKOWSKI PHOTOGRAPHY

PRIDE OF POLAND Aiming to dispel preconceptions about Poland and its exports, store and gallery No Wodka has a delightful array of Polish art, fashion and design, none of it – as the name suggests – related to vodka. This bright space, designed by a team from Warsaw, is flled with pieces by new and established Polish creatives. The items – from art and handbags to homewares – are chosen for their originality and quality while the clean and simple surroundings create the perfect home for the varied pieces. The team is constantly seeking new artists, brands and design studios and always provides an impressive representation of Poland’s creative scene. mkh No Wodka, Pappelallee 10, 10437 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4862 3086, nowodka.com

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WORLD OF COLOUR With its Life is Cool slogan, Desigual is a label that’s known for its cheerful and colourful creations; even its catwalk shows break tradition, with models smiling and waving. The spring/ summer collection is flled with everything Desigual is known and loved for: stunning colours, innovative styles and top quality. As well as creating clothing and accessories for men, women and children, Desigual has transposed its famboyant patterns and vibrant colours onto a range of home accessories and linens. Based in Barcelona, the company has opened over 300 stores worldwide since its inception in 1984 and continues to focus on an upbeat and individual feel, personal style and excellent service. mkh Desigual, Tauentzienstrasse 14, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2101 8995, desigual.com * for map go to page 83

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

In little over a decade, Andreas Murkudis has established himself as one of the most infuential tastemakers in Berlin. He has recently opened two stores at the new Bikini Berlin mall in addition to his existing multibrand boutique on Potsdamer Strasse.

This modern and stylish space opened in 2012 and each piece stocked is selected by Murkudis, from clothing, accessories, fragrances and cosmetics through to books, homewares, fne porcelain and glassware.

Expect to see top international labels including Céline and Balenciaga and historic German names such as Nymphenburg as well as relatively unknown labels. If a store that is so young can be described as a Berlin institution, this is it. hl Andreas Murkudis, Potsdamer Strasse 81E, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6807 98306, andreasmurkudis.com * for map go to page 83

PHOTO: THOMAS MEYER/OSTKREUZ

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BRIGHT EYES

PARIS IN BERLIN French fashion label ElevenParis has opened its frst German fagship store, located in Berlin’s Mitte district. The shop is dotted with images of the supermodel Kate Moss, who has been a strong supporter of the brand since its inception in 2003 and

who is an inspiration for the designs. ElevenParis ofers men’s and women’s collections in a highly contemporary and creative style, mixing pop culture references with a touch of rock ’n’ roll to create dynamic apparel. hl ElevenParis, Münzstrasse 22, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3087 7755, elevenparis.com * for map go to page 92

PHOTO: (TOP) ANTONIO BARELLA/STUDIO ORIZZONTE

For the spring/summer season, Bulgari further explores its Serpenti theme.

Inspired by the power and dynamism of the serpent, this design was frst seen as a snake-shaped bracelet watch in the 1940s and the symbol has continued to grow in popularity throughout the decades, having been seen across jewellery, leather goods, timepieces and eyewear collections. On these Serpenti sunglasses a green, enamel snake’s tail weaves through the crystal-studded golden scales that adorn the arms, while the oversized cat’s eye frames are realised in patterned acetate. gl Bulgari, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2360 9360, bulgari.com * for map go to page 83

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 97

PHOTO: DAVID PINZER

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can browse and discover new and well-trusted products. Germany’s frst Wacom Experience Centre can be found here, and there is also a Java cofee lounge where visitors can relax while considering an all-important purchase.

Customer service agents with a high level of expertise are on hand to ofer advice and to demonstrate devices ensuring you will leave with the perfect technological tools to support and enhance your work and lifestyle needs. gl Cyberport, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 38-50, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6920 36930, cyberport.de * for map go to page 83

CYBER SPACE A new addition to Berlin’s technology scene, Cyberport has opened a third store in the city. The boutique ofers a large range of consumer electronics and digital lifestyle products, including computers, tablets, smartphones, TVs, audio equipment and domestic appliances, from leading brands. The 850-square-metre superstore is slick and stylish, providing a peaceful space where customers

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

INDIAN SUMMER This season’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection has been inspired by the luxurious palaces and resorts of India at the beginning of the 20th century, following a trip to the country by the label’s menswear style director Kim Jones. Silhouettes refect those of 1930s military clothing, while the collection is set in hues of dusky oranges and khaki with bursts of hot pink contrasting with deep navy. Impressive details, including intricately engraved mirror plating, embossed buttons, and cotton and silk Airtex jacket linings, are the result of Jones’s extensive fabric research and mark this season’s menswear collection as one of Louis Vuitton’s best crafted to date. rp Louis Vuitton, Kurfürstendamm 56-57, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 882 5272, louisvuitton.com * for map go to page 82

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CLEAR VISION

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

German womenswear brand Marc Cain has opened a boutique in the new Mall of Berlin.

One of Marc Cain’s largest stores to date, the space has been designed to luxurious standards, with dark wood fooring, cream walls, golden furnishings and decorative lighting creating a warm and elegant environment. The spring/ summer 2015 collection was presented at Berlin Fashion Week and encompasses the brand’s typically feminine aesthetics with a touch of quirky cool for a youthful and playful feel. Sophisticated peach and powder blue tailored pieces sit side by side with printed silk slips in muted tones and a touch of trademark leopard print, while bold and colourful foral fourishes have been applied to coats, capes, circle skirts and shorts. The brand aims to cater for confdent, open-minded women with a laidback attitude and the current collection is sure to appeal to such customers. gl Marc Cain, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2045 5175, marc-cain.com * for map go to page 90

PHOTO: © 2014 DIEPHOTODESIGNER.DE

FUTURE PERFECT

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At the Paris Fashion Week catwalk show for his ffth major Dior womenswear show, Raf Simons installed a mirrored tent at the Louvre’s Cour Carrée. The tent was constructed in such a way that it seemed as if the venue had vanished, but it is testament to his skill as a designer that this dramatic fourish did little to distract from the clothes. Simons gave new life to Dior favourites such as the Bar jacket and the new look silhouette to stunning efect.

The prevalence of white on the catwalk, from cotton smocks to billowing coats, gave the show a futuristic and almost clinical edge that is perfect for this season. th Dior, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2360 7004, dior.com * for map go to page 83

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UP AND AWAY Airfeld was founded in 1937, originally specialising in industrial clothing for women.

For the last 20 years the Austrian company has been creating consumer-focused fashion lines using its technological and high-quality manufacturing expertise and has recently opened a new store in Berlin. With a vision to make clothing that blurs the boundaries between dress codes, Airfeld’s latest collection encompasses seven key trends, with a focus on casual and sporty daywear, and items from each trend can be mixed and matched with ease to create a variety of looks. Look out for the biker jacket, which is interpreted in numerous fabrics, colours and cuts, the shift dress in a variety of prints and patterns, and tailored slim-ft trousers in a choice of pastel shades. For an edgy take on glamour, the label’s eveningwear teams quilted and fringed leather jackets with black lace. gl Airfeld, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2062 2260, airfeld.at * for map go to page 90

HIGH-END BEATS When it comes to sound, Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen knows its stuf. The company not only creates some of the bestquality headphones and home audio systems in the world, but also prides itself on pushing the boundaries of premium sound. It’s no surprise, then, that Bang & Olufsen has launched the world’s frst high-end, compact wireless speakers. The new BeoLab 17 speakers, most recently reinvented in a matte black fnish, are beautifully minimalist, crafted from a single piece of extruded aluminium. With their Bluetooth wireless connectivity they can be used throughout your home, ensuring you are surrounded by premium sounds whatever you’re doing. rp Bang & Olufsen, Charlottenstrasse 62, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3198 81800, bang-olufsen.com * for map go to page 91

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Berlin’s new shopping centres, Bikini Berlin and the Mall of Berlin, are helping to make the city one of Europe’s best retail locations, says Gwyneth Holland

MARVELLOUS MALLS

PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU/FRANZ BRÜCK

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In a city of diverse neighbourhoods with multiple shopping options, it seems ftting that two of Berlin’s most high-profle retail spaces ofer such diferent shopping experiences.

The independent spirit of Bikini Berlin and the glossy spaces of the Mall of Berlin showcase the city’s inimitable combination of high fashion and individual style.

Since opening in April 2014, Bikini Berlin has fast become a hub for the city’s famed creative community as well as for fans of contemporary design. The distinctive building on Budapester Strasse, built in 1957, was formerly part of the city’s zoo complex; the glass section between its upper and lower foors gave the building its nickname, Bikinihaus (Bikini House).

It has since been transformed by German

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With its initiatives, Bikini Berlin is bringing the city’s emerging fashion talent to new audiences

Previous page: Bikini Berlin mall and the 25hours hotel

developers Bayerische Hausbau and Belgian architects SAQ into a retail, work, hospitality and entertainment centre. With such an unconventional space, the Bikini Berlin team was determined to create an unconventional retail experience. ‘Bikini Berlin sees itself as a concept mall, a compilation of carefully curated and coordinated boutiques, concept and fagship stores,’ says Kai-Uwe Ludwig, CEO of Bayerische Hausbau.

The ground foor features popular brands such as Carhartt WIP, Vans and Gant, as well as restaurants, design and electronic stores, and 19 ‘boxes’: these small wooden spaces are available as pop-up shops for new designers and entrepreneurs, and can be rented for up to one year; recent tenants include a blow-dry salon and eyebrow bar, a puzzle shop, an artisan stationery store and a forist. Well-known labels such as Alessi, Weleda, Laurèl and Bugaboo have also opened pop-ups here, alongside local brands including ethical fashion label Folkdays, Mercy Would eyewear, tie specialist Edsor Berlin and jewellery label Nallik.

With a groundswell of young design talent across the city ‘it’s important that malls and designers work closely with each other,’ says Lisa Schweisselmann, editor of Cropped Magazine, a blog focused on Berlin’s fashion scene. Through its initiatives, Bikini Berlin is bringing the city’s emerging fashion talent

PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU

PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU/FRANZ BRÜCK

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Above (from lef): Gant store; roofop supermarket, both Bikini Berlin mall

PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU

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PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU

The Mall of Berlin boasts restaurants along its terraced edges, as well as a lifestyle complex to new audiences, which is welcomed by people such as Oyranne Dufour and Maria Ziemann who organise the regular Voodoo Market events which feature products from young designers. The approach taken by Bikini Berlin ‘helps spread the word about the great, iconic and young fashion style our city has to ofer,’ they say.

As well as enabling customers to discover new brands, malls must now ofer a shopping experience. ‘We’re seeing a social change in buying behaviour,’ says Ludwig. ‘It is not about

Above (clockwise from botom lef): Bam Berlin pop-up box, Carhart store, both Bikini Berlin mall; the interior of the shopping centre, Karl Lagerfeld store, both Mall of Berlin

PHOTO: SUSANN SCHURIG

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need consumerism anymore, but much more about a consumption of experiences. Therefore, shopping becomes an element of leisure time and competes against other leisure activities.’

To cater to the growing need for experiential shopping trips, Bikini Berlin’s complex also includes a cinema, rooftop park, gallery and a hotel, 25hours.

Meanwhile, at the Mall of Berlin, the experience provided is based on the sheer scale of the project, as well as its historical location. Opened in September 2014, the Mall of Berlin is a very recent addition to Germany’s roster of shopping centres. Built on the site of Wertheim, once Germany’s largest department store, the new mall is impressively vast, with 270 shops currently spread over 76,000 square metres. It presently houses the country’s largest food court and developer Harald G Huth has announced that 50 stores will be added during 2015, which will make this Germany’s most extensive mall, at 135,000 square metres.

Occupying the area around Potsdamer Platz, Leipziger Platz and Wilhelmstrasse,

the Mall of Berlin consists of four foors, which are flled with popular fashion labels such as H&M, Mango and Zara, big brands including Nike, Aldi and C&A and a clutch of premium labels; Hugo Boss, Karl Lagerfeld and Strenesse all feature.

Huth also recognises the importance of ofering additional attractions, and the Mall of Berlin boasts restaurants along its terraced edges, as well as a lifestyle complex which will include rental apartments, a running track and rooftop garden.

‘These two malls, with their diferent approaches to labels and designers, make it possible for everybody to realise their own style,’ says Schweisselmann. ‘Because of the wide range of shops, everyone is able to fnd something that expresses their personality.’

Whether you’re looking for fast fashion, designer labels or new brands, these two additions to Berlin’s mall scene are sure to ft the bill bikiniberlin.de, voodoomarket.de, mallofberlin.de

SATURN BERLIN Expertise and a passion for technology

Saturn offers a wide range of fascinating branded products at attractive prices as well as expert advice and customised service. Just like at a trade fair, customers can find the latest trends in technology at 12 Saturn stores all over Berlin.

The products are as innovative as their presentation is striking: modern technology can be experienced first hand, variety and relevance are key. The range of goods includes product categories such as consumer electronics, new media, household appliances, telecommunications, computers, photography and video.

Customers can shop in their local store, but also online and even with their smartphone to later pick up their purchases from the store if they wish. The company is one of the leading players in European electronics retailing.

Alex - Mitte Alexanderplatz 3 10178 Berlin

Boulevard Berlin TreitschkestraĂ&#x;e 7 12163 Berlin

Europacenter Tauentzienstr. 9 10789 Berlin

Gesundbrunnen-Center Badstr. 4 13357 Berlin

Spandau Arcaden Klosterstr. 3 13581 Berlin

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Berlin Fashion Week is increasingly ofering a global perspective as international designers make their mark on the city’s catwalks. Sally McIlhone reports

PHOTO: FELIX GYAMFI

WORLD CLASS It almost goes without saying that German fashion is known for its functionality and minimalism. From the faultless tailoring of Hugo Boss to the sober sophistication of Jil Sander, German designers are known and loved for rejecting the frivolous and over fussy in favour of streamlined simplicity. Bucking this trend, a tribe of international designers descended upon the catwalks of Berlin Fashion Week, bringing with it punchy prints, oversized silhouettes and a fresh approach to texture.

With these bold new designers commanding the attention of Germany’s fashion

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commentators, one thing’s for certain: the event will never be the same again.

Central to this shift in Berlin Fashion Week’s aesthetic has been Africa Fashion Day Berlin, a celebration of African design hosted amid the main show schedule. Founded by Beatrace Angut Oola in 2012, AFDB was inspired by a trip to Uganda. ‘I was there from 2009 to 2010 and was totally impressed by the flm, music and design scenes,’ she explains. ‘As I work as a stylist, I have always attended Berlin Fashion Week and had noticed that African fashion is not represented at all.

Lef: Maxhosa by Laduma spring/summer 2015

I think it is important to add African fashion to the German industry and give it its own space.’

For spring/summer 2015, AFDB showcased the talents of the Nigerian print master Samson Soboye, 1981 by skilled Ghanaian designer Nana K Brenu, and the masterful knitwear creations of Maxhosa by Laduma. After single-handedly creating and building the event, it’s easy to understand why Oola refers to herself as a ‘pioneer’. After just two years, AFDB has carved out a niche for itself and shows no signs of losing momentum: ‘We are giving designers the best platform in Europe to get access to the fashion industry,’ says Oola.

Samson Soboye has certainly benefted from the platform provided by AFDB. His career in fashion design came after stints Above (from lef): designer Romero Bryan with Beatrace Angut Oola; 1981 ; Samson Soboye (both), all spring/summer 2015

PHOTO: PETER MICHAEL DILLS/GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG

PHOTO: AMDELA WARTENBERG

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Africa Fashion Day Berlin has provided a catalyst for striking, colourful collections to start storming the catwalks and shake up the German fashion industry

PHOTO: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY IMAGES

PHOTO: PETER MICHAEL DILLS/GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG

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working as a stylist and an interior designer and a period of employment at Vogue UK. Soboye’s spring/summer 2015 collection stood out from the crowd thanks to the designer’s use of powerful patterns, leather and a strong accessory selection – from printed headscarves and baseball caps to leather visors. ‘Designing my own collection was a way to express a diferent part of my creativity,’ Soboye explains.

‘I love to mix colours and clash prints to create an alternative style of dressing that is eyecatching and bold. I feel happiest in my own designs and I like the reaction I get when people see me in my clothes.’

Certain elements of Soboye’s work refect current trends but rather than interpret these movements in the muted tones favoured by traditional German fashion stalwarts,

the designer prefers to add his own twist.

‘I like sports luxe and had a few items that embrace that trend, but obviously the prints are so strong that they make much more of a statement and have a great impact on the catwalk,’ he says. ‘It’s good to stand out and make a lasting impression.’

Another designer who has impressed at Berlin Fashion Week is Roshi Porkar.

Her spring/summer 2015 collection featured oversized silhouettes designed to echo the shape of the princesses of Bactria statuettes,

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG/PETER MICHAEL DILLS

PHOTO: PETER MICHAEL DILLS/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ

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which were created around 4,000 years ago in a region which is now part of Afghanistan.

Tactile oyster-toned dresses with exaggerated hips and ladylike faux fur-panelled coatdresses were collection highlights, and with Haider Ackermann and Tilda Swinton in attendance at the catwalk show, Porkar’s star is clearly in ascendance.

Of all the international designers who showed at Berlin Fashion Week this season, Hien Le’s collection best refects the classic style of the German capital. A number of

Above (from lef): Roshi Porkar (both); Hien Le, all spring/summer 2015

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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minimalist pieces featured, with clean lines and strong structures, yet the standout pieces featured a head-turning goldfsh print in blue, yellow and red. ‘It’s a good sign that Berlin Fashion Week is getting more and more international and that international designers are showing in Berlin and using it as a platform,’ Le says. ‘Berlin has amazing designers, such as Vladimir Karaleev, Perret Schaad and Sissi Götze to name just a few.’

As Berlin Fashion Week’s major players continue to be cited as inspiration for a new

generation of designers from all over the world, the event’s global perspective never fails to captivate. Africa Fashion Day Berlin has provided a catalyst for striking, colourful collections to start storming the catwalks and shake up the German fashion industry.

As Oola puts it, ‘This is the start of something big for the next generation.’ mbfashionweek.com, soboye.com, studio1981.com, maxhosa.co.za, hien-le.com, vladimirkaraleev.com, perretschaad.com, sissigoetze.com, africafashiondayberlin.com

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GUERILLA Kaviar Gauche broke into the fashion world a decade ago and is still bringing a touch of rock ’n’ roll rebellion to the style establishment, as Verity Hogan discovers

PHOTO: DAN & CORINA LECCA

CHIC

‘Our collections are based on contradictions.

We love women who are chic and feminine yet still have a sense of rebellion.’ The designers behind Kaviar Gauche have been breaking fashion rules since they set up the label in Berlin 10 years ago. In fact, the brand entered the international style world through an act of rebellion, when Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl debuted their collection with a guerrilla catwalk show on the street outside Parisian concept store Colette in 2004.

Since then, Kaviar Gauche has shown twice in Paris, as part of the main schedule: its spring/summer 2015 show was ‘successful and sensational,’ say the designers.

‘Showing in Paris is quite diferent to Berlin,’ they add. ‘In Paris, we have to convince an international audience that may have never heard of us before. In Germany, you could ask an unfashionable elderly woman in one of the smaller towns and she would probably know who we are.’

Lef: La Berlinoise collection by Kaviar Gauche, spring/summer 2015

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It’s true to say that Kaviar Gauche is wellknown worldwide and that its typical clientele is far more glamorous than the average German granny. Strong, beautiful and talented women are the target audience for the label, and its fans include Heike Makatsch and Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley. The label’s aesthetic is ‘feminine avant-garde with a modern glamour, combined with elements of rock ’n’ roll’, and the designers say they would love to see Keira Knightly and Joséphine de la Baume wearing their creations.

For spring/summer 2015, the women have produced a collection that can be seen as a culmination of all the experiences, infuences and inspirations they have shared in the last

The current Kaviar Gauche collection is a culmination of the designers’ influences and inspirations

Above (from lef): Kaviar Gauche designers Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl; the brand’s spring/summer 2015 collection (both)

PHOTOS: DAN & CORINA LECCA

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decade. The collection strikes a perfect balance between masculine and feminine styles: expect feminine silhouettes paired with opulent oversized elements and fowing volume with displaced shapes, executed in a palette of intense yet soft colours.

Inspiration comes from a range of sources but Berlin is a constant presence in the label’s pieces. ‘Besides the people who infuence our working process and our designs, our beloved city Berlin gives us moments, impressions and ideals which conduct the style of Kaviar Gauche,’ says Kühl. ‘But even so, diferent cities, especially Paris, also deliver moments and ideas which are responsible for our

inspiration.’ The label commemorated its long association with Berlin during its 10th anniversary celebrations, holding a special show in the city: ‘It felt right to do this in Berlin so we were able to invite a lot of people who were believers and supporters from the very frst moment.’

Since graduating in fashion design from Esmod in Paris, Kühl and Fischer-Roehler have become known for the efortlessly chic nature of their work. The label’s name is taken from a French expression. ‘It’s based on “gauche caviar”, which can be translated into Champagne socialist. It pretty much describes our design and consumer

PHOTO: CATHLEEN WOLF

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philosophy,’ Fischer-Roehler explains.

Kaviar Gauche’s collections often feature an intriguing interplay between textures, transparency and volume, helping to create a look that combines cool seduction with modern glamour. Couture detailing and the incorporation of luxury fabrics add a touch of exclusivity.

The label’s wide recognition within Germany can be attributed to a series of high-profle collaborations. In 2008, Kühl and Fischer-Roehler produced an exclusive collection for the Karstadt group, featuring 1970s-inspired dresses, tunics and blouses; they launched a shoe range for Görtz in 2010 and produced a limited-edition cosmetics bag for natural beauty company Dr Hauschka.

A shared understanding forms the basis of any partnership: ‘It just needs to be a ft.

The other company needs to be convinced by our aesthetic. Otherwise it will not work,’ Above (clockwise from top lef): two diferent facets of La Berlinoise collection by Kaviar Gauche, spring/summer 2015; the brand’s collaboration with Dr Hauschka, a limited-edition cosmetics bag

PHOTO: CATHLEEN WOLF

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The two designers behind Kaviar Gauche excel at collaboration

the designers explain. ‘Of course it is still a cooperation and you cannot ignore the partners’ wishes, but they have to trust us. The projects that have been based on these principles were very successful.’

Collaboration is something Kühl and Fischer-Roehler excel at, having worked together for 10 years with minimal creative

diferences. ‘Of course, sometimes we have diferent opinions, but it is quite rare as we trust each other.’

The infuence of two creative minds may account for the duality that has become a trademark of the label; the spring/summer 2015 collection plays with contrasts, pairing casual drapery with strong geometric shapes to great efect.

It’s a winning formula and the label shows no sign of a loss of momentum after reaching its 10th anniversary. ‘We are planning to expand on the international market,’ the designers confde. ‘Licence deals are being sorted out right now and we are planning to open more mono-label stores; our stores have been very successful.’

It seems that Germany’s fashion rebels are becoming respected members of the global style community kaviargauche.com

72 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK Berlin’s design expertise extends to its restaurants and bars, as Isabella Redmond Styles fnds out

Berlin is known for its cutting-edge approach to design. One of the leading cities of the Bauhaus art movement, it has a long history of innovation and creativity. Although this is most obviously experienced through its art galleries and concept stores, Berlin’s restaurants also have a strong focus on design, meaning that diners can enjoy their meal surrounded by scintillating art works and outstanding interior design. From an ultra-modern venue complete with a waterfall to perfect examples of industrial chic and a spot-on facsimile of 1920s Paris, design is the last word in dining in Berlin. globalblue.com

S H O P | 73

PHOTO: JENS PETER RANDT

LA SOUPE POPULAIRE Part of the regeneration of the Bötzow Brewery in Prenzlauer Berg, La Soupe Populaire exemplifes industrial chic. The space is decorated with antiques and items from fea markets and the dining area overlooks an exhibition space, making for interesting mealtime conversations. In keeping with the surroundings, classic German food is reimagined here: a traditional dish of eggs in mustard sauce is reworked as a perfectly poached egg in a rich mustard sauce with a sprinkling of char caviar, and La Soupe Populaire’s rendition of Königsberger klopse, an historic Prussian meatball dish, is outstanding.

La Soupe Populaire, Prenzlauer Allee 242, 10405 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4431 9680, lasoupepopulaire.de

74 | E X P E R I E N C E

POULETTE

PHOTO: DIEPHOTODESIGNER.DE

The perfect antidote to modern minimalism, this popular French restaurant in Prenzlauer Berg is elaborately decorated, making diners feel as if they have stepped into Paris in the 1920s. Beautiful tiles and candle light add to the appeal, while the overall feel at Poulette is one of romance. The food is classically French and expertly executed. Opt for the chef’s suggestions of foie gras crème brûlée with poached apple and brioche, followed by glazed ginger duck breast. Accompany your meal with a bottle from the impressive wine list.

Poulette, Knaackstrasse 30-32, 10405 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4403 8012, poulette.de

SAGE Located on the banks of the Spree, Sage occupies a picturesque outside space complete with a man-made beach. However, some of the restaurant’s best features are found inside.

The restaurant occupies a former factory and the interior features exposed industrial fttings globalblue.com

which contrast with sleek, modern touches and art installations. A menu of international favourites such as steak, pizza and pasta are available alongside a more experimental weekly menu which includes unusual seasonal favour combinations.

Sage, Köpenicker Strasse 18-20, 10997 Berlin, +49 (0)30 7554 9407, sage-restaurant.de

PHOTO: Š MINKO MINEV

S H O P | 75

THE PEARL The Pearl, a bar, nightclub and events space located across the road from Theater des Westens in elegant Charlottenburg, promises a very glamorous after-dark experience.

Visitors can marvel at the 10-metre waterfall while sipping one of the Pearl’s cocktails:

try the refreshing Basil Smash or the Salted Lebowski, a mix of vodka, Kahlua, caramel, milk and sea salt. Eye-catching light installations and an LED foor make dancing until the early hours difcult to resist.

The Pearl, Fasanenstrasse 81, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3151 8890, thepearl-berlin.de

Fashion in Big Sizes

I am great

MENSWEAR

BIG Size 56–70, 28–35

LADIESWEAR

PLUS Size 44–56

TALL Size 110 –126

online shopping

Head office: Weingarten GmbH & Co. KG, Friesenplatz 19, 50672 Köln

Nürnberger Straße 14 / corner of Tauentzien, P Europa Center, 030 – 219 65 08 0, berlin@weingarten-mode.de, Monday to Saturday 9.30am – 8.00pm

G U I D E | 77

GUIDE

PHOTO: GERMAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD/LEHNARTZ, KLAUS AND DIRK

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Berlin with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best boutiques to the mustsee attractions. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/berlin.

A GLIMPSE OF BERLIN Above: a view of the Schlossbrücke (Palace Bridge), with the city’s cathedral and Fernsehturm (TV Tower) in the background

78 | G U I D E

‘Walking along the East Side Gallery is a great way to experience the city’s history and culture’ Grace Bird, SHOP’s assistant picture editor

globalblue.com

PHOTOS: GRACE BIRD; LUCA RUSSO; SARAH WALKER

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

S H O P | 79

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

80 | G U I D E

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Bucherer, Kurfürstendamm 45, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 880 4030, bucherer.com

Heritage watchmaker H Moser & Cie and fne jeweller Bucherer have a lot in common. These independent companies from German-speaking areas of Switzerland were founded in the 19th century and so it is natural that they are long-time collaborators.

Their most recent project is the Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition. In white gold and with a 1960s convex design, the watch is inspired by H Moser & Cie’s historic pocket watches. Be sure to seek out this watch while in Berlin, as it is exclusively available in Bucherer boutiques in Germany, Switzerland and Austria.

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Global Blue Retailer

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82 | G U I D E

Kurfürstendamm, Joachimstaler Strasse & Tauentzienstrasse

S H O P | 83

SSE

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BURBERRY P.46 BULGARI CALVIN KLEIN CÉLINE CHOPARD CHRIST DIESEL DIOR P.48 FENDI HERMÈS HUGO BOSS JIL SANDER LACOSTE LOUIS VUITTON

MIU MIU MONTBLANC NESPRESSO OMEGA NIKI PRADA ROLEX ROSENTHAL SALVATORE P.30 FERRAGAMO STEIFF SONY TIFFANY & CO TOD’S VERTU WELLENDORFF WMF

WEMPE Wempe is on a mission to keep watch lovers happy with the latest addition to its Zeitmeister line. The Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte i/SA Chronograph Mondphase Vollkalender combines two of the most popular horological features of previous styles, a chronograph and a full calendar including moon phase rank to chart the lunar cycle. Other highlights include a 24hour display and a practical date display.

Once completed, each timepiece must undergo a rigorous 15-day testing procedure and is only approved if it reaches Wempe’s exacting standards.

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

Wempe, Kurfürstendamm 215, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 882 6878, wempe.de

Place Of Interest

U-Bahn

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SELECTED STORES IN KADEWE: .

STR

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tadt

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JACK & JONES PIMKIE

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Kars

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KÄTHE-KOLLWITZ -MUSEUM

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AR ●Z

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84 | G U I D E

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Global Blue Retailer

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Peek & Cloppenburg Kant-Center ● MEXX ● MEDIA MARKT ● TK MAXX

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ANNETTE HENTSCHEL BIBA BIJOU BRIGITTE BONG APOTHEKE BONITA CHRIST COLLOSEUM DEICHMANN DOUGLAS ECCO ESPRIT ETERNA FISCHER MODE FOOT LOCKER FOREVER 18 GABOR H&M INTERSPORT SPORTPOINT JACK & JONES JEANS FRITZ LASCANA MEDIMAX MUSTANG NEW YORKER NICOLAS SCHOLZ PROMOD PUMA RENO RUNNERS POINT S OLIVER SPIELE MAX TALLY WEIJL TAMARIS TOP TWO YVES ROCHER ZERO

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WIN DSC HEI DST

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S CHIL L ER ST R A SSE

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I E D R I C H -S T R A S

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S H O P | 85

Bleibtreustrasse TOP 3 INTERIOR DESIGN STORES

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3. Dopo Domani This is a local favourite thanks to its range of pieces from prestigious international design labels including Vitra, Minotti and B & B Italia. Housed within an historic apartment building in central Berlin, Dopo Domani will impress even the most discerning interiors enthusiast.

Dopo Domani, Kantstrasse 148, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6881 32970, dopo-domani.de for map go to page 82

NS

SCHMUCK ● GALERIE LALIC

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2. Parkhaus Parkhaus’s owners are constantly travelling to source new and original pieces for the Mitte store, meaning that its offering regularly changes. On each visit, you can be sure of an eclectic mix of carefully curated furniture, soft furnishings and accessories.

Parkhaus, Schröderstrasse 13, 10115 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4401 2460, parkhausberlin.de

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1. Vintage Galore Located in Kreuzkölln, Vintage Galore is a highlight among the charming independent boutiques and cafés along Sanderstrasse.

Expect to find Scandinaviandesigned pieces, mainly from the 1960s, in immaculate condition.

Vintage Galore, Sanderstrasse 12, 12047 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6396 3338, vintagegalore.de

KNESEBE CK ST RA S

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M D A M ● PATRICK HELLMANN ● SØR WOMAN

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86 | G U I D E

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TOP 3 OUTDOOR AREAS 1. Café am Neuen See Located in the picturesque Tiergarten on the edge of the lake, Café am Neuen See allows visitors to soak up the serene surrounding while sampling the café’s much-loved pizzas and freshly baked goods.

Café am Neuen See, Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 254 4930, cafeamneuensee.de for map go to page 81

3 10

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SPORTSCHECK ● ● WITTSTOCK SALAMANDER ● ● BONITA THE BODY SHOP ● ● VILLEROY & BOCH PETIT BATEAU ● DOUGLAS ● ● NATURKAUFHAUS ● EVELIN BRANDT APOLLO-OPTIK ● ● FOOT LOCKER ● BIBA FIELMANN ● BASLER ● FOTO ● LEISTENSCHNEIDER S OLIVER ●

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SE

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AS

NS

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HL

ME

TR

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LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ● SCHILDHORN APOTHEKE ● BIBA ●

● REDGREEN

● TOSCANINI

SC

Centre Steglitz

OR

Peek & Cloppenburg

OS

Karstadt

AH

● HIRMER

TR

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SS

ESPRIT H&M HUNKEMÖLLER

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AKTIV SCHUH APOLLO OPTIK ARA BIJOU BRIGITTE CHRIST COMMA DESIGUAL DOUGLAS ESPRIT GERRY WEBER G-STAR HALLHUBER H&M HOLLISTER HUNKEMÖLLER JETTE JOOP KARSTADT KARSTADT SPORTS KONPLOTT KULT LLOYD L’OCCITANE LUSH LTB MEXX NEW YORKER ONLY ORSAY PANDORA PILGRIM PROMOD RUNNERS POINT S OLIVER SIDESTEP TAMARIS TALLY WEIJL ZARA

SELECTED STORES IN FORUM STEGLITZ:

RO

SELECTED STORES IN CENTRE STEGLITZ:

ANSON’S BENETTON BONITA CHRIST COLLOSEUM CONRAD ELECTRONIC ESPRIT GABOR-CAMEL GAMESTOP GEOX GERRY WEBER GÖRTZ H&M MARC O’POLO MEDIA MARKT MEXX NEW YORKER ORSAY PIMKIE S OLIVER STREET ONE TOMMY HILFIGER

3. Das Badeschiff When the temperature soars in central Berlin, cool off at Das Badeschiff swimming pool, located by the Spree. Visitors can while away the day in a riverside hammock or deck chair.

Das Badeschiff, Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin, +49 (0)1520 594 5752, arena-berlin.de 3

PHOTO: BLAINE O’NEILL CC BY-NC 2.0

*

2. Prater Garten Berlin’s oldest beer garden, Prater Garten is still one of its most popular. Traditional German dishes, considered to be some of the most authentic in the city, are available from the restaurant.

Prater Garten, Kastanienallee 7-9, 10435 Berlin, +49 (0)30 448 5688, pratergarten.de

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

mientus K U R F Ü R S T E N D A M M h o me o f m e n ’ s fash i on

TOM FORD · BRIONI · DIOR GUCCI · ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA LORO PIANA · DOLCE & GABBANA · ETRO JIMMY CHOO · DSQUARED · MONCLER · Y-3 SLY 010 · JOHN VARVATOS · BOGLIOLI GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI · VALENTINO SAINT LAURENT · BALMAIN BERLUTI · GIVENCHY

mientus K U R F Ü R S T E N D A M M Kurfürstendamm 52 · 10707 Berlin · 030.3239077 · www.mientus.com

88 | G U I D E

EAST BERLIN JOH ANNISSTRASSE

UMA

E

TE TE FF IN

R EIN

-S

R

TR

HAR

SE

Grill Royal

.

A SSE

A M W EID

HTS

N S TR

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SE

BRANDENBURGER TOR

EB ERTST R A SS E

B EH

RE

TS

TR

.

Mall of Berlin

S

E

R AS S E

UE

RS TR AS

SE

E

RAS

SE

Place Of Interest

EN ST R A SS

MA

90

KR O N EN ST

STADTMITTE

MST

page

Hyat Hotel

GERMAN CATHEDRAL Berlin page Hilton 91 5

R PL. HEL

Hotel Berlin Marriot

. AME SD PL OT PR E

CONCERT HALL BERLIN

NH Hotel

WIL

P OT S DA M POTSDAMER PLATZ

Sofitel

C H A R LO TT

A SSE

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SE

SE

SS

VO S S S T R

SI

.

S C H E ST R

G LIN K A S T

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RAS

RA

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MOHRENSTRASSE Hotel Ritz Carlton

ST

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M A R -S T R .

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IST ERG Ä RTE

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AS

IN DE N MIN

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TRU

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FRANZÖSISCHE STRASSE

GER

BE

NES

BE HR EN S T

SE NSTR A S

FR A N ZÖ

HAN

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LIN DE N DEDNEN LIN ENER UN TE RUDNT

Westin Grand Hotel

Hotel Adlon

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N L I N D EN

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Maritim pro Arte Hotel

A SS E

GEORGENS

HSTR A S

EENST R

D O R OT H

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ST R A

AG ST

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FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

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FR I E D R IC

ICH

AM

T R A SS E

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RD

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IF

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GL IN K A S

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PAUL LÖBE ALLEE

SCH

A FB

PLA

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THE REICHSTAG BUILDING

BUNDESTAG

E N DA M M

TR A

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G E S C H W I S T E R-S C

ALB

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AS DSTR

R.

-S

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ZIEGEL STRA SSE

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LE

LSK

SCH

GA

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TR NNS

TUC

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U-Bahn

Train Station

ZIM M ER STR

Hotel

.

S H O P | 89

4 MÜ

1

NZ

STR

.

3

CH

AN

O R A NIEN B U RG ER S T R .

IE

NB

UR

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DIR RS

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HIGHLIGHTS

SSE

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OR

ST

6

K EN S T R A S S E

1

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HACKESCHER MARKT C RO

HS

TR

AS

SE

page

92

ALEXANDERPLATZ

Kaviar Gauche Kaviar Gauche, founded in Berlin, creates cutting-edge womenswear.

Kaviar Gauche, Linienstrasse 44, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2887 3562, kaviargauche.com featured on page 66

* TELEVISION TOWER MUSEUMSINSEL

SAS Radisson Dom Aquaree

SE

AN

TZ LA

R

KT

SS

KUR S

O B E R WA

REAT SRTE ET I TS TEE BERI BR

MA

SS A U NIKOLAI CHURCH

E

BR

GGE ERRT TRRA AUU DDE ENNS STTR RAA SSS SEE

5

R.

.

WA L L S T R

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SS RA ST

UE NE

SE AS TR R-S

GE

TE AL

JA

K

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IAN

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Restaurant

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AX

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RA

SP

ST

ST

EN

BA

NT

SE

RIN

E

DA

GR

SS

TR.

AN

ÜN

RA

HS

MM

6

ST

ST

UT

KO

Featured In This Issue

Bang & Olufsen Bang & Olufsen’s new BeoLab 17 speakers, the world’s first high-end, compact wireless speakers, are essential for any music lover’s home.

Bang & Olufsen, Charlottenstrasse 62, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3198 81800, bang-olufsen.com featured on page 49

*

E

R A SSE

EL

TR AS SE

ASS

SPITTELMARKT

BE

.

MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

OB

STR

YD

ZI M M ER STR

EL

EL

EI PZIGE R

ST R AS SE

NS

.

SE

KR AU SE NS

RI

NS

F

HE

RI

SE

C IS

HE

AS

SC

S T R .L L EIPZIGER

TR

FI

N I E D E RWA L L S T R

RS

ElevenParis French chic comes to Berlin at ElevenParis’s Mitte boutique.

ElevenParis, Münzstrasse 22, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3087 7755, elevenparis.com featured on page 46

*

ST

KU

Rianna + Nina Rianna + Nina’s colourful bags, cushions and kaftans will raise a smile.

Rianna + Nina, Steinstrasse 4, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2887 9122, riannaandnina.com featured on page 40

* 4

ER

SSE

ÜD

TR A

LL STR .

HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ

SC H Ü TZ EN

RED CITY HALL

NIKOLAI QUARTER

EP

LL STR .

DER

R.

K HIN SC

O B E R WA

WER

ER S CH

3

.

TR

TH RA

Bikini Berlin Concept mall Bikini Berlin houses some of the city’s most stylish stores.

Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 44, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5549 6454, bikiniberlin.de featured on page 52

*

ST

E

SE

ER

I L- L

EC

AS

U

K AR

N BK

HT

R ST

DA

BERLIN CATHEDRAL

MM Ü HÜ LHEL NEDN ADM AM M B RB ÜRCÜ KCEK E

DE

AS

SP

BO

R ST

2

Denham Find your perfect pair of jeans at the recently opened Denham store, which also offers repair and handwashing services.

Denham, Denham, Blue Yard, Münzstrasse 21, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4004 4281, denhamthejeanmaker.com featured on page 42

*

90 | G U I D E

Alte Potsdamer Strasse BRANDENBURGER TOR

ST

R.

SELECTED SHOPS IN POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN:

RAS

AS

SE

K ST

TR

LIN

TS

SE

ER LIQUIDROM ●

1.2.3 NEO ADIDAS AMPELMANN ANNA STERN APANAGE BIBA BIJOU BRIGITTE BONITA CHARLOTTE CHRIST DEICHMANN

MYKITA While east Berlin has long been thought of as the city’s trendier half, the recent redevelopment of Bikini-Haus into an überchic mall is challenging such preconceptions.

This modern shopping centre features independent stores and quirky boutiques.

Visit the German eyewear brand Mykita, whose store celebrates the building’s original

Place Of Interest

R A SSE

ER PL .

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

Global Blue Retailer

T RA SS E

T

ER

FR IED R IC HS

PO

M

P O T S DA M

EB

TE AL

A SD

R A SS E

● SONY CENTER

LEIPZIGER ST

Mall of Berlin

S T R A SSE

DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK

GL IN K A ST

UE

TR .

EV

MS

LL

MAVI SIDESTEP MAX & CO T R A S S ESILK & CASHMERE BEHR ENS MEPHISTO SNIPES MEXX SPORTALM KITZBÜHEL MUJI SPORTSCHECK NAVYBOOT STEIFF NEO ADIDAS STRELLSON NIKE STRENESSE OLYMP SWAROVSKI .

ONE GREEN ELEPHANT THE BODY SHOP PANDORA THOMAS SABO PEEK & CLOPPENBURG TOM TAILOR PENNYBLACK TOMMY HILFIGER PEPE JEANS TOYS R US RENO TRIUMPH REPLAY TWIN-SET RICH AND ROYAL UNDIZ RITUALS MOHRENSTRASSE VERO MODA RUNNERS POINT WE FASHION SALAMANDER WMF SARAR WORMLAND SATURN YVES ROCHER SHOE CITY ZARA

HEL

BE

VO S S S

WIL

1.2.3.

7 FOR ALL MANKIND AIRFIELD P.49 ALMANO LEDERMANUFACTUR ARMANI JEANS BERSHKA BREE C&A CHRIST CINQUE COS DEICHMANN DENIM & SUPPLY DESIGUAL DOUGLAS ESPRIT ETERNA FALKE FASHION CLUB

FAST FORWARD FOOT LOCKER FOSSIL GANT GINA TRICOT G-STAR GUESS H&M HALLHUBER HOLLISTER HUGO BOSS HUNKEMÖLLER INTERSPORT JACK & JONES KUSMI TEA LACOSTE LAUREL LEVI’S LIEBESKIND LLOYD MANGO P.48 MARC CAIN MASSIMO DUTTI TR A SSE

EBERTSR A SSE

SELECTED SHOPS IN MALL OF BERLIN:

Non-Global Blue Retailer

DOUGLAS EINBLICK OPTIK ESPRIT G-STAR GERRY WEBER GUESS H&M HERBAWI HUNKEMÖLLER KIKO MANDARINA DUCK MANGO MARC O’POLO NARA CAMICIE PALMERS LEJABY

PROMOD PUMA QUIKSILVER S OLIVER STREET ONE SWAROVSKI TALLY WEIJL TR AS SE ZIM ME RS THE BODY SHOP TK MAXX TOMMY HILFIGER VERO MODA WMF WOLFORD ZARA

1950s character while incorporating its signature white wall on which the latest styles, all made in Germany, are displayed.

An in-house optometrist is on hand to provide expert advice about the lenses and frames ofered by the brand.

Mykita, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 38-50, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2847 4114, mykita.com * for map go to page 83 Shopping Centre/Mall

U-Bahn

S H O P | 91

OCELOT

PHOTO: YVES SUCKSDORFF

Describing itself as ‘not just another bookstore’, Ocelot ensures that visitors arrive with high expectations, and this shop combined with a café doesn’t disappoint.

The interior, by a local designer, is chic and understated while the café serves excellent cofee from Kreuzberg’s Espressolounge.

Customers are encouraged to take their time to browse Ocelot’s impressive collection of literature, non-fction, graphic novels and comics. Look out for the readings, concerts and exhibitions which are also held here.

Ocelot, Brunnenstrasse 181, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9789 4592, ocelot.de

Unter Den Linden, Friedrichstrasse & Französische Strasse AGU

FER

A SSE

MI TT EL ST

R A SS E

SHOE CITY ●

● DUSSMANN STORE ● TIMBERLAND ● AKTIV SCHUH

ST R.

NIVEA HAUS ●

N LI N D EN

Bebel Platz

J ÄG E R S T R .

BUCHERER ● E

Q110 DIE DEUTSCHE BANK DER ZUKUNFT ● THOMAS SABO ● S T R A SSE

WMF ●

● FRANKONIA ● STEFANEL

R A SSE

F R IE D RI CH

GLINK A ST

MOHREN

P.49

GEOX ● R AS S E

MARC CAIN ●

LEIPZIG ER ST

R A SSE

STR A SSE

K RO N EN ST

SSE

HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ

Gendarmen Markt Quartier 205, 206, 207

ESCADA ● SS TA U B E N S T R A

J ÄG E R S T R A

FE NS T R .

SELECTED STORES IN QUARTIER 205, 206, 207:

M AR KG RA

TR .

● MONTBLANC NAVYBOOT ● ● TANDEM ● LE TANNEUR SANDRO ● Galeries Lafayete NESPRESSO ●

BRILLE 4 ●

SSE

SSE

A B EHR ENS T R MEISSEN GALERIE ● CHARLOTTENSTRASSE ● JACK WOLFSKIN ● THE CORNER HUGO BOSS ● ● NAVYBOOT ROECKL ● ● WEMPE SCHE STR .

EMPORIO ARMANI ● F R A N ZÖ SI

FRANZÖSISCHE STR.

BALLY BOTTEGA VENETA DA VINCI ETRO GANT PATRICK HELLMANN LOUIS VUITTON MAX & CO MOSCHINO NAPAPIJRI STRENESSE WOLFORD

LL STR A

● H&M MAN ● MASSIMO DUTTI

AT Z

MS

AS SE

HEL

GL INK AS TR

WIL

SSE

IITALLA ● LACOSTE ● KPM ●

B EB EL PL

● JACK & JONES ● MEISSEN ● COS

BRANDENBURGER TOR

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM

O B ER WA

U N T ER DE

TR A BEHR ENS

● DOUGLAS ● ZARA ● MARC O’POLO ● ESPRIT

TSSTR .

U N I V E R S I TÄ

EE N S T R

S CH AD OW

D O R OT H

HU HE ● AK TIV SC S ● ST RA US

R EIC H S T

MO H R EN STR

FASSBENDER ● & RAUSCH ● BANG & OLUFSEN KR O N E NS

STADTMITTE

T R AS SE

ASS E

● MEISSEN

Hilton Hotel MEISSENER PORZELLAN ● AM GENDARMEN MARKT

L EIPZIGER S

TR A SSE

KR AU SE NS

Department Store

Train Station

Hotel

TR AS SE

Featured In This Issue

92 | G U I D E

Alexanderplatz, Brückenstrasse, Neue Schönhauser Strasse & Rosenthaler Strasse TZ G DT CA EER H FL A EB EC AR DD RIANNA + NINA ● ●A RH H UH E ● R A C ● SOTO STORE GESTALTEN C S T RS LD A ● ● GO SE T TE ● SPACE S Y FE T FI UB Y S H UE N E R R G E R / B P L A E A N N OU ● R P E A 1 7 N E J R BA BEN SHERMANN ● ● FREITAG LAB S T D L L Z O R / R P E● U ● ENERGIE ● F R E A R R T Y K AV I P E Ö ● PORSCHE DESIGN OAKLEY ● ● ● K G DR M ● TR .

S ● ● ● ER ● CONVERSE NEU E S C H Ö H AUS ● HUGO BOSS N MICHAEL KORS ● ● STRELLSON SPORTSWEAR MÜ N Z ● ULF HAINES Hackesche UR

XE

SS

SE

R. ST

RA

ST

UN RA

-B TO OT

SS

E

KI

EB

EL

ST

RA

AS

SE

AS

RS

DE

AN

X

E

Alexa Center AL

A S ● ULLA POPKEN

EX

RC

AN

DI

DE

A SS E

SSE

AIR O LT

SE RAS

N ST CKE

SE

BRÜ

G A SSE

RT

S T R A SSE

SSER

M AM ND

LE

ÜH

M

E

AS

GE

TR

MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

S T R A L A U R ST R .

BERLIN STAR BEAUTY ● BERLIN STAR TAX FREE SHOP ●

RUNG E

LS

E

H

SE

SS

ISC

IN

EL RA

RK

SSE

NS ST

MÄ

RA

ER

ST

UF

SE

EN

RI

ES

R

AS

KS

HE CH

FE

TR

RC

SC MÄ

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U ES

ES

DI

V

E

FI LL

TR A

ST R

A SS

R. WA

RS

EN

LEVI’S MAMMUT MEDIA MARKT APRIORI MEXX BETTY BARCLAY PALMERS LEJABY BIBA PICARD BIJOU BRIGITTE PILGRIM KLOSTERSTR. CAMEL ROLAND-SCHUHE CHRIST RUNNERS POINT COLLOSEUM S OLIVER COMMA SIDE STEP DEICHMANN STREET ONE DOUGLAS SWATCH EDC TALLY WEIJL ESPRIT TAMARIS ETERNA THE BODY SHOP FAST FORWARD TOMMY HILFIGER FOSSIL TRIUMPH G-STAR VERO MODA RO DUFER GERRY WEBER L A N WE H&M WMF JACK WOLFSKIN YVES ROCHER JUWELIER CLASSIC ZARA KOOKAÏ ZERO

KS

SELECTED STORES IN ALEXA CENTER:

STR

E

ST

SS

SE

TEN

SS

ER

RA

TR

LIT

E

RA

ÜD

ST

KS

E

LU

SA

RO

TZ LA

SS

ST BR

UD

AS

SE

RA

TE

RA

TR

TR AS

ST

EI HT

S

R ST

AL

SE

ENS

R.

ST

BR AC

RS

SATURN ● PROMOD ● ESPRIT ● NEW YORKER ● STEILMANN ●

JÜD

ST

PO

TZ LA GR

DE

● C&A

RP

UR

SP IE

HS

AN

DE

SE

LA

OS FR

IC DR

AU

RA

HL

TH

AS

TH RA ST

SC

RA

S AU

R ST

EX

Galeria KauÄof

ALEXANDERPLATZ

AMPELMANN GRETCHEN H&M JOST NIKE STORE MAC MANGO OAKLEY O-STORE PEAK PERFORMANCE PROFUMO SANDRO STEFANEL STONES TOMMY HILFIGER TRIPPEN

EC

TR

SELECTED STORES IN HACKESCHE HÖFE:

R.

E

H EC

AN

IS

-S T

K

AR

I LL

N BK

AL

T ● RENO

EX

OU

● MYKITA AUSBERLIN ●

S

DZ

AL

A-L

CH

AR ST R IN LIE RL E BE JUW ●

N AN

RS

HS

A TR

A SSE

WA

C RO

NEUES MUSEUM A A- K

STR

SE

HACKESCHER MARKT

WA

MB

AL M S TA

STR

LER

THA

SEN

RO

● MUJI

● ELEVENPARIS P.46 ● ADIDAS ● AMERIC AN APPARE L ● GAS ● DIESEL ● DENHAM P.42 ● COS ● MISS SIXTY

.

● 14OZ

● NIKE

TR

● RESPEC TMEN

● CAMPE R

● BUFFAL O

Höfe

O R A N I E N B U R G ER S

GS

DSTR

.

TR

.

P.40

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Shopping Centre/Mall

U-Bahn

Train Station

Featured In This Issue

DISCOVER NOW AT KARSTADT SPORTS:

TOP-BRANDS OF SPORTS. GOLF | 2015

MEHR MORE EQUIPMENT, EQUIPMENT, THAN THE CADDY ALS DER CADDY CAN CARRY. TRAGEN KANN.

Golf-Fashion, Functional Clothing, Golf Shoes, golf clubs, Golf Balls & Accessories, Bags & Trolleys

karstadtsports.de

At Karstadt sports in Berlin, Am Neuen Kranzler Eck

Become a fan now: facebook.com/karstadtsports

Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-StraĂ&#x;e 2 | 45133 Essen | WP5002

94 | E X P E R I E N C E

Berlin is widely considered to be among Europe’s trendiest capitals, with its eye-catching street art, fourishing fashion scene, a multitude of cool boutiques and some of the best nightlife in Germany. SHOP’s assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard spent an unforgettable weekend in the city

PHOTO: © VISITBERLIN/GROTHAUS

MY WEEKEND

Berlin is famous for its museums and art galleries, and undoubtedly one of the most intriguing is Carlier Gebauer. Founded in the early 1990s, the gallery is flled with international contemporary art. The vast exhibition space allows artists to create captivating, large-scale installations which are sure to attract anyone with an interest in art. Previous exhibitions have shown work by Ethiopian abstract artist Julie Mehretu, cinematic mixed-media specialist Ming Wong and contemporary German sculptress Asta Gröting.

Above (top right): Berlin street art

PHOTO (PROFILE): DIONNE HÉLÈNE

Carlier Gebauer

S H O P | 95

Voo Store Located in a former locksmiths in cutting-edge Kreuzberg, Voo Store embodies Berlin’s efortlessly cool reputation. With an emphasis on good design, craftsmanship and creativity, Voo Store stocks streetwear, high fashion, homewear and accessories, including items from Acne Studios, Our Legacy and Soulland. The in-store cofee shop provides the perfect midday pick-me-up.

Becketts Kopf

DIRECTORY

Well known to locals, Becketts Kopf is entered through an unmarked door. Once inside the velvet-draped rooms, payment is only accepted in cash. Becketts Kopf stocks some of the fnest spirits in Berlin, including Scottish and Irish whiskies, in addition to a long list of cocktails and Cuban cigars.

Becketts Kopf, Pappelallee 64, 10437 Berlin, +49 (0)162 237 9418, becketts-kopf.de Carlier Gebauer, Markgrafenstrasse 67, 10969 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2400 8630, carliergebauer.com

Das Lokal

Das Lokal restaurant promotes culinary treats from Berlin and the surrounding area. The no-fuss menu focuses on wholesome German classics, such as wild boar with carrot, parsley root, red cabbage and apple, and deer terrine with potatoes, parsnips, red cabbage and broccoli. Much of the meat is sourced from nearby forests, which also provide the wood used in the handcrafted tables and chairs, ensuring an entirely locally sourced culinary experience.

globalblue.com

Das Lokal, Linienstrasse 160, 10115 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2844 9500, lokal-berlin.blogspot.de Voo Store, Oranienstrasse 24, 10999 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6165 1119, vooberlin.com

96 | G U I D E

DESIGNER OUTLET BERLIN

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Berlin: follow Heerstrasse on the B5 to Spandau, continue until you see the junction signposted Designer Outlet Berlin.

Designer Outlet Berlin, Alter Spandauer Weg 1, 14641 Wustermark, +49 (0)33 234 9040, designeroutletberlin.de

From Potsdam: follow the Berlin ring road westward (A10), taking the junction for BerlinSpandau B5.

By train and bus

Opening times Monday-Thursday: 10am-7pm Friday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

PERFECT DAY

10am Start the day with a splash of colour and a selection of vibrant prints at distinctive Spanish label Desigual.

1pm Take a break at San Francisco Cofee Company where rare and speciality cofees are sure to provide an afternoon pick-me-up.

11am Admire the high-quality tailoring at Hugo Boss.

Expect a perfect ft across the range.

From Berlin: take train RE4 towards Rathenow and get of at Elstal. In front of the station take bus 662 towards Wustermark/ Falkenrehde which takes you to the main entrance of Designer Outlet Berlin.

From Potsdam: take train RB21 towards Wustermark and get of at Priort. In front of the station take bus 662 towards Bahnhof Elstal which takes you to the main entrance of Designer Outlet Berlin.

By taxi

3pm

5pm

Go back to school with the contemporary college look embodied

by Campus’ casual collections.

End your day among the sparkling crystals of Swarovski. The label is known for its precision cut and clarity.

globalblue.com

From Berlin city centre: approximately 40 minutes.

From Potsdam city centre: approximately 20 minutes.

97

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Ofces: At all airport Refund Ofces, go to customs before check-in

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

104 / 109

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Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor, to the right of the café-bar Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre; customs is next to Global Blue Refund Ofce Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (customer service centre, 5th foor) Dresden Airport Terminal B, opposite customs in the airport service area Leipzig Airport/Halle Central Terminal, Lufhansa ticket/information counter in the check-in area; customs is opposite the Refund Ofce

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 52: Marvellous Malls

PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU/FRANZ BRÜCK

Поразительные Моллы

Недавно открывшиеся шоппинг-моллы Bikini Berlin и Mall of Berlin помогают городу завоевать титул одного из лучших направлений Европы, утверждает Гвинет Холланд В городе, где в каждом районе можно найти свою уникальную шоппинг-специализацию, вполне естественно, что две самые известные берлинские площадки пытаются предоставить сервисы, которых нет у других. Мятежный дух Bikini Berlin и сверкающие залы Mall of Berlin демонстрируют неподражаемую комбинацию высокой моды и индивидуального стиля города. После своего открытия в апреле 2014 Bikini Berlin быстро превратился в центр креативного сообщества Берлина и стал культовым среди поклонников современного дизайна. Яркое здание на Budapester Strasse, построенное в 1957 году, изначально являлось частью комплекса городского зоопарка; стеклянная секция между его нижним и верхним этажами определила globalblue.com

прозвище здания – Bikinihaus (Бикини Дом). С тех пор он был преобразован немецкими застройщиками Bayerische Hausbau и бельгийским архитектурным агентством SAQ в торговый, гостиничный и развлекательный центр. В таком необычном помещении команда Bikini Berlin постаралась создать неординарный ритейл концепт. «Bikini Berlin является концептмоллом, группой тщательно отобранных и координированных бутиков, концепт и флагманских магазинов», - говорит Кай-Уве Людвиг, глава Bayerische Hausbau. На первом этаже вы найдете такие популярные бренды, как Carhartt, Vans и Gant, а также рестораны, магазины дизайна и электроники и 19 «коробок»: эти небольшие деревянные помещения используются в качестве временных магазинов для новых дизайнеров и предпринимателей на период от трех месяцев до одного года. Сейчас их занимают студия красоты, салон для оформления бровей, магазин пазлов, канцтовары и

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цветочный магазин. Здесь свои временные бутики также открыли такие известные лейблы, как Alessi, Weleda, Laurèl и Bugaboo, наряду с местным брендом этнической одежды Folkdays, оптикой Mercy Would, специалистами в сфере галстуков Edsor Berlin и ювелирным брендом Nallik. Учитывая огромное количество молодых гениев в городе, «очень важно, чтобы моллы и дизайнеры плотно работали вместе», говорит Лиза Швайссельманн, редактор Cropped Magazine, блога, посвященного модной сцене Берлина. С помощью своих мероприятий Bikini Berlin представляет новых талантливых дизайнеров на суд публики, что импонирует таким людям, как èйран Дюфур и Мария Зиманн, которые регулярно организовывают Voodoo Market, события, на которых демонстрируются вещи восходящих звезд моды. èни утверждают, что такой подход Bikini Berlin «помогает продвигать культовый молодежный стиль, которым так славится наш город». Помимо того, что моллы помогают посетителям открывать для себя новые бренды, они также обязаны производить определенные «впечатления». «Мы наблюдаем социальную перемену в поведении покупателей, - говорит Людвиг. – Речь уже не идет об обычном консюмеризме, а больше – о положительных впечатлениях об обслуживании. Таким образом, шоппинг становится элементом досуга и соперничает с другими видами времяпрепровождения». Для того, чтобы полностью отвечать всем капризам посетителей, комплекс Bikini Berlin включает в себя кинотеатр, парк на крыше, галерею и отель. Тем временем в Mall of Berlin предлагаемые впечатления основаны на масштабе проекта, а также на его историческом расположении. èткрывшийся в сентябре 2014 года Mall of Berlin – последнее добавление к списку шоппингцентров Германии. Построенный на площадке Wertheim, когда-то крупнейшем универмаге Германии, новый молл впечатляет своим размером: 270 магазинов простерлись на территории в 76,000 кв.м. Здесь находится самый крупный в стране globalblue.com

ресторанный двор. Застройщики Harald G Huth объявили о том, что еще 50 магазинов появятся здесь в течение 2015 года, что сделает его самым крупным моллом в Германии с площадью в 135,000 кв.м. Расположившийся вокруг Potsdamer Platz, Leipziger Platz и Wilhelmstrasse этот молл занимает четыре этажа, представляющие популярные модные лейблы, такие как H&M, Mango и Zara, крупными брендами типа Nike, Aldi и C&A и группой премиум марок, включая Boss, Karl Lagerfeld и Strenesse. Huth также понимают важность дополнительных услуг и развлечений, поэтому Mall of Berlin может похвастаться рядом ресторанов по всему периметру его террасы, а также пристроенным комплексом, в который войдут съемные квартиры, дорожка для кросса и сад на крыше. «Эти два молла с их разными подходами к лейблам и дизайнерам помогают всем найти свой собственный стиль, - говорит Швайссельманн. – Благодаря огромному выбору магазинов каждый может найти все необходимое для самовыражения». Являетесь ли вы фанатом быстрой моды, дизайнерских лейблов или новых брендов, два крупнейших молла в Германии точно придутся вам по вкусу. bikiniberlin.de, voodoomarket.de, malloferlin.de 60: World Class

Мировой Класс Берлинская неделя моды завоевывает статус международной, благодаря известным дизайнерам, которые приезжают в город на показы. Рассказывает Салли МакИлхон Всем прекрасно известно, что немецкая мода славится своей функциональностью и минимализмом. От безупречного кроя Hugo Boss до строгой утончённости Jil Sander, немецкие дизайнеры узнаваемы и любимы за отказ от фривольности и излишней вычурности в пользу чёткой простоты. В отличии от них, европейские и американские бренды, начав показывать

на Берлинской неделе моды, принесли с собой яркие принты, объёмные силуэты и новый подход к текстуре. После волны интереса со стороны ключевых деятелей модной индустрии, стало очевидно: это мероприятие уже никогда не будет прежним. Основным толчком к реформации эстетики Берлинской недели моды послужил «Модный день Африки в Берлине»( Africa Fashion Day Berlin). Он посвящен африканскому дизайну и проходит наряду с основными показами. Учреждённый Беатрис Ангут Оола в 2012 году AFDB был вдохновлён поездкой в Уганду. «Я жила там с 2009 по 2010 год и была сильно впечатлена индустрией кинематографа, музыки и дизайна», – объясняет Беатрис. «Будучи стилистом, я всегда посещала Берлинскую неделю моды и заметила, что африканская мода на ней не представлена вовсе. Я считаю важным интегрировать ее в немецкую индустрию и дать развиваться». В сезоне весна-лето 2015 на AFDB мы увидели талантливые работы нигерийского мастера принтов Samson Soboye, бренд 1981 от искусного ганского дизайнера Nana K Brenu и великолепные вязаные изделия от Maxhosa by Laduma. Оола называет себя «первопроходцем» - в этом нет ничего удивительного, ведь она в одиночку создала мероприятие. Всего два года спустя AFDB нашел собственную нишу и не собирается сдавать обороты: «Мы даём дизайнерам доступ к лучшей платформе в Европе, через которую они проникают в модную индустрию», – говорит Оола. Самсон Собойе - один из тех счастливчиков, кому помог AFDB. Его карьера в сфере модного дизайна началась с работы стилиста, дизайнера интерьеров и временной должности в Vogue UK. Коллекция Собойе весна-лето 2015 выделялась на фоне остальных, благодаря использованным дизайнером ярким узорам, коже и разнообразных аксессуаров – от головных платков и кепок с принтом до кожаных козырьков. «Создание моей собственной коллекции стало способом выражения другой стороны моей креативности, – объясняет Собойе – Я

PHOTO: FELIX GYAMFI

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люблю смешивать цвета и принты, что дает альтернативный яркий и смелый стиль. Моя одежда делает меня счастливым, и мне очень нравится реакция людей, когда они видят меня в моих нарядах». Некоторые элементы работы Собойе отражают и модные тенденции. Но вместо того, чтобы интерпретировать их в приглушенном тоне, как это делают традиционные немецкие дома, дизайнер предпочитает вносить в них нечто своё. «Мне нравится стиль спорт-люкс, и я сделал несколько вещей, которые следуют этому тренду, но, очевидно, их принты настолько яркие, что они сами по себе имеют гораздо более сильный эффект на подиуме, – говорит он – Мне нравится выделяться и

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производить впечатление». Еще один дизайнер, впечатливший Берлинскую неделю моды – Roshi Porkar. В её коллекции весна-лето 2015 были замечены объёмные силуэты, сшитые по образу и подобию очертаний статуэток Бактрийской принцессы, созданных около 4,000 лет назад в регионе, который сейчас является частью Афганистана. Струящиеся платья устричного цвета с объёмными бедрами и утончённые платья-пальто с вставками из искусственной кожи стали гвоздём коллекции, а присутствие на показе Хайдера Аккермана и Тильды Суинтон говорит о быстром восхождении Поркар. Из всех показов международных дизайнеров на Берлинской неделе моды именно коллекция Hien Le лучше всех отражает классический стиль немецкой столицы. На его шоу мы увидели множество минималистичных моделей с чёткими линями и ясной структурой, однако самыми интересные наряды - те, на которых красовался принт золотой рыбки в голубом, жёлтом и красном цветах. «Мне кажется, это хороший знак, что Берлинская неделя моды становится более и более международной и что мировые дизайнеры показывают свои коллекции в Берлине, используя его в качестве платформы, - говорит Лэ – В Берлине есть прекрасные дизайнеры; Vladimir Karaleev, Perret Schaad и Sissi Götze – одни из многих». В то время, как основные персонажи Берлинской недели моды продолжают выступать в качестве источника вдохновения для нового поколения дизайнеров со всего света, международное преобразование этого мероприятия впечатляет. Africa Fashion Day Berlin стал отправной точкой демонстрации ярких коллекций, которые захватили подиумы и встряхнули немецкую модную индустрию. Как говорит Оола: «Это начало чего-то значительного для следующего поколения». mbfashionweek.com, soboye.com, studio1981.com, maxhosa.co.za, hien-le.com, vladimirkaraleev.com, perretschaad.com, sissigoetze.com globalblue.com

66: Guerilla Chic Своенравный Шик

Бренд Kaviar Gauche ворвался в мир моды более десяти лет назад и до сих пор привносит нотку рок-н-ролльного мятежа в модную индустрию, как выяснила Верити Хоган «Наши коллекции основаны на противоречиях. Нам нравятся роскошные и женственные женщины, которые имеют склонность к бунту». Kaviar Gauche нарушает модные правила уже десять лет, именно столько прошло с момента его появления. Фактически лейбл появился, благодаря своеобразному акту непослушания, когда дизайнеры Александра Фишер-Рёлер и Йоханна Кюль представили свою первую коллекцию на стихийном показе, устроенном на улице, снаружи парижского концепт-стора Colette в 2004 году. С того момента бренд дважды устраивал показы в Париже, ставшие частью основного расписания. Шоу весна-лето 2015 было «успешным и сенсационным, – заверяют дизайнеры. – Показы в Париже сильно отличаются от Берлина. В Париже нам приходится производить впечатление на интернациональную публику, которая, возможно, никогда о нас и не слышала. В Германии вы можете спросить пожилую женщину, не имеющую никакого отношения к моде и проживающую в маленьком городке, и она скорее всего знает, кто мы». Можно с легкостью утверждать, что Kaviar Gauche достиг международного признания, и, что его типичные клиенты куда более стильные, чем среднестатистические немецкие бабушки. Целевой аудиторией бренда являются сильные, красивые и талантливые женщины, а в число его фанатов входят Хайке Макатч и Рози Хантингтон-Уайтли. Эстетика лейбла – «женственный авангард с современным обаянием, объединённый с элементами рокн-ролла», и дизайнеры говорят, что им бы очень хотелось, чтобы их одежду примерили Кира Найтли и Жозефин де ля Бом.

PHOTO: DAN & CORINA LECCA

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Для сезона весна-лето 2015 дизайнеры создали коллекцию, которую можно рассматривать как кульминация всего опыта, влияния и вдохновения, которым они делились последнее десятилетие. Эта коллекция выдерживает идеальный баланс между мужским и женским: женственные силуэты дополнены роскошными крупными элементами и легким объёмом со смещёнными формами; всё это выполнено в ярких, но мягких цветах. Вдохновение приходит из многочисленных источников, но отражение Берлина в одежде бренда очевидно. «Помимо людей, которые оказывают влияние на рабочий процесс и наши модели, наш любимый город Берлин даёт нам впечатления и идеи, которые определяют стиль Kaviar Gauche, – говорит Кюль. – И всё же разные города, особенно Париж, также создают свои моменты, выступающие в качестве вдохновения».

Лейбл выразил свою любовь к Берлину во время своего 10-летнего юбилея, устроив специальный показ в городе. «Нам показалась правильным сделать это в Берлине, так как нам удалось пригласить многих людей, которые верили и поддерживали нас с первых минут». Небрежный шик их коллекций принес славу Кюль и Фишер-Рёлер после выпуска с курса модного дизайна в ESMOD в Париже. Название бренда происходит из французского выражения: «Оно основано на «gauche caviar», что может быть переведено как социалист из Шампань. Это достаточно точно описывает наши изделия и философию потребления», – объясняет Фишер-Рёлер. Массовое признание бренда в Германии началось с серии крупных коллабораций. В 2008 году Кюль и Фишер-Рёлер создали эксклюзивную коллекцию для группы Karstadt, в которую вошли платья, туники и блузы в стиле 1970-х. В 2010 году они запустили линию обуви для Görtz и косметичку, которая вышла ограниченным тиражом для бренда натуральной косметики Dr Hauschka. Понимание составляет основу любого сотрудничества: «Всё просто должно совпасть. Другая компания должна поверить в наш дизайн. Иначе ничего не получится, – объясняют дизайнеры, – конечно это всё равно сотрудничество, и вы не можете просто игнорировать желания ваших партнёров, но они должны доверять нам. Проекты, построенные на этих принципах, были очень успешны». Коллаборации – это то, в чем Кюль и Фишер-Рёлер нет равных, ведь они проработали вместе 10 лет с минимальными креативными разногласиями. «Конечно, иногда наши мнения расходятся, но это происходит очень редко, ведь мы доверяем друг другу». Влияние двух креативных умов вылилось в двойственность, которая стала отличительным знаком лейбла. Коллекция весна-лето 2015 играет с контрастами, объединяя драпировку с яркими геометрическими формами, что создает оригинальный эффект. За 10 лет лейблу удалось разработать

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настоящую формулу успеха, и потеря популярности не входит в планы дизайнеров. «Мы хотим расшириться на международном рынке, - признаются они. – В данный момент улаживаются дела с лицензиями, и мы планируем открыть больше моно-брендовых бутиков; наши магазины пользуются успехом». Кажется, модные бунтарки Германии становятся уважаемыми членами мирового модного общества. kaviargauche.com 97: When you shop the world, shop tax free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.com

美文翻译

52: Marvellous Malls 精彩纷呈的购物中心 柏林新开幕的购物中心“比基尼柏林”（Bikini Berlin）与柏林商厦“ Mall of Berlin”，正帮助这座 城市成为欧洲最吸引人的购物胜地之一。Gwyneth Holland报道 在柏林这样涵盖诸多社群与各种购物选择的城市 中，城中最高端的两处零售空间提供如此截然不 同的购物体验也就并不让人奇怪了。Bikini Berlin 的独立精神与Mall of Berlin的奢华空间，展示了这 座城市无可复制的对高端时尚与个性风尚的兼容 并蓄。 自2014年4月开业以来，Bikini Berlin已迅速 跃身为城中最著名的创意枢纽与当代设计爱好者 们的集散地。这座特立独行的建筑位于布达佩斯特 （Budapester）大街，它建于1957年，前身是城市动 物园的一部分；其上下楼层间镶嵌的玻璃幕墙赋予 其Bikinihaus（BikiniHouse比基尼房子）的昵称。 德国地产开发商Bayerische Hausbau与比利时建筑 事务所SAQ将其改造为集零售、办公、酒店、娱乐 为一体的综合性场所。在这样一座颠覆常规的空间 内，Bikini Berlin的团队决心要为顾客们创造突破 传统的零售购物体验。“Bikini Berlin将自己视为概 念型购物中心，集结了一批经过精心挑选与组合的 精品店、概念店与旗舰店，” Bayerische Hausbau 的首席执行官Kai-Uwe Ludwig表示。 一楼容纳着不少流行品牌如Carhartt、Vans 与Gant，该层还设有餐厅、设计与电器商店以及19 个“盒子”：新晋设计师与创业者们可以利用这些木 制的小空间，开设为期三个月到一年的游击商店； 最近的租户包括一间美发沙龙与修眉吧，一间拼 图店，一间艺匠文具店与一间花店。国际知名品牌 Alessi、Weleda、Laurèl 与 Bugaboo等，连同本地 品牌如环保时尚品牌Folkdays，Mercy Would眼 镜，领带专家Edsor Berlin与珠宝品牌Nallik都曾 在此开设过临时店铺。 这座城市聚集着数量众多的年轻设计人才，“ 商场与设计师紧密合作就显得很重要，”聚焦柏林 时尚圈的博客Cropped Magazine（“时尚简报”） 编辑 Lisa Schweisselmann表示。Bikini Berlin 通过一系列活动，将城中新近涌现的设计新星介绍 给新的受众，这也受到Oyranne Dufour与Maria Ziemann等人的大力欢迎，他们定期组织Voodoo 市场活动贩售年轻设计师们的作品。Bikini Berlin 的这一举动“帮助我们推广这座城市中最具代表性的 杰出年轻时尚力量 ，”他们表示。

PHOTO: SUSANN SCHURIG

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除了帮助顾客发掘新的品牌，现今的商场还必 须提供购物“体验”。“我们注意到人们购买行为中的 社会化变迁，”Ludwig表示。“不再仅仅是关于消费 主义需求了，而更关乎消费的体验。因此，购物已经 变成了闲暇时光的重要组成元素，正在与其他的休 闲娱乐活动竞争。”为了顺应对购物体验之旅日益增 长的需求，Bikini Berlin的建筑中还包括一家电影 院、屋顶公园、画廊与一间名为25hours的酒店。 与此同时，在柏林商厦（Mall of Berlin），购物 体验则来源于其庞大的体量与具有历史意义的位 置。开幕于2014年9月的柏林商厦，是德国购物中心 花名册中的最新成员。这座新的购物中心建于原先 德国最大的百货公司Wertheim的旧址上，占地面 积惊人地庞大，76000平方米的空间内林立着270 家店铺。这里拥有目前德国最大的美食广场，开发商 Harald G Huth亦已宣布在2015年还会有50家店 铺加入其中，使其成为占地面积135000平方米的、 德国最大的购物中心。 这座购物中心位于波茨坦广场、莱比锡广场与 威廉大街附近，四层空间内容纳着H&M、Mango 与Zara等流行品牌，Nike、Aldi与C&A等大型零 售品牌，以及一系列高端品牌；Hugo Boss、Karl Lagerfeld与Strenesse都在此占有一席之地。Huth 同样认可为顾客提供其他娱乐的重要性，柏林商厦 主建筑的四周环绕着餐厅，在与其相连的生活区还 设有出租公寓、跑道与屋顶花园。 “这两座商场和他们挑选品牌与设计师的不同 途径，让每位顾客都可以找到属于自己的风格，” Schweisselmann表示。“店铺选择如此广泛，人人 都可以找到能表达自我个性的东西。” 无论你是快时尚、设计师品牌还是新晋品牌的 粉丝，柏林这两家最新的购物中心定能满足你的 需求。 bikiniberlin.de, voodoomarket.de, mallofberlin.de

60: World Class 世界顶级盛事

柏林时装周正日益呈现全球化视野，不少颇具国 际影响力的设计师纷纷现身于该城秀场。Sally McIlhone报道 德国时装以功能性与极简主义而闻名，这点毋庸置 疑。从Hugo Boss的完美剪裁到Jil Sander的冷峻细 腻，德国设计师们因拒绝轻浮与过度累赘、倡导流 线般的简洁而为人熟知与钟爱。秉承这一传统，一批 具有国际影响力的设计师们空降柏林时装周，并带 来极具冲击力的印花、大尺寸夸张廓形与新型质感 的面料。这群大胆革新的新晋设计师们引起了德国 globalblue.com

PHOTO: PETER MICHAEL DILLS/GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG

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时尚评论界的关注，有一点可以肯定：柏林时装周从 此将大不一样。 柏林时装周这一审美转变的核心部分当属 柏林非洲时尚日（AFDB），一项出现在主日程 上的推广非洲设计的活动。受一次乌干达之旅 的启发，Beatrace Angut Oola在2012年创立了 AFDB。“我在那里从2009年待到2010年，完全被 当地的电影、音乐与设计所震撼到了，”她解释道。“ 作为一名造型师，我经常参加柏林时装周，然而我 留意到非洲时尚从未得到展示的机会。我认为将非 洲时尚引入德国设计工业，并给与其足够发展空间 非常重要。” 在2015年春夏，AFDB展示了尼日利亚印花 大师Samson Soboye的作品，加纳设计师Nana K Brenu的品牌1981，以及Maxhosa by Laduma技 艺高超的针织作品。在一手创立并推广这项活动之 后，我们不难理解为何Oola将自己称为“先驱者”。 经过短短两年，AFDB就为自己找到了小众受众市

107

场，并展现出经久不衰的活力：“我们为设计师们提 供全欧洲最好的平台，帮助他们进入时尚界，”Oola 表示。 Samson Soboye无疑从AFDB提供的平台 中受益良多。他在开始时装设计生涯之前，曾从事 造型师、室内设计师并为英国版Vogue杂志工作 过。Soboye的2015春夏系列凭借设计师对强有力 的印花、皮革的运用，以及一系列令人震撼的配饰作 品而脱颖而出——从印花头巾、棒球帽到皮革遮阳 帽。“设计自己的系列是我表达自己创意中不同方面 的方法，”Soboye解释道。“我喜欢混搭不同颜色与 互相冲突的印花，来打造与众不同、大胆惹眼的造 型。穿着自己作品的时候是我最幸福的时刻，我喜欢 别人见到我身着自己作品时候的反应。” Soboye作品中的不少元素都反映了当下的时尚 趋势，然而相较于以传统德国时尚中坚分子所青睐 的柔和色彩来演绎这些潮流，设计师更乐于加入自 己的巧妙心思。“我喜欢运动奢华风潮，并推出了一 系列这一风格的单品，不过很显然这些印花太过强 有力了，他们就像是一种声明，出现在T台上时极具 冲击力，”他表示。“我觉得与众不同并让人留下持久 印象非常好。” 另一位震惊柏林时装周的设计师是Roshi Porkar。她在2015年春夏系列中以超大夸张廓形， 呼应建于4000年前的当今阿富汗某地区的巴克特里 亚公主雕像的轮廓。系列中的亮点是有着夸张臀部 设计、精工细作的牡蛎色礼服，与镶嵌人造皮草的 优雅知性大衣裙。时装设计师Haider Ackermann 与影星Tilda Swinton都出席了这场时装秀，Porkar 的事业无疑正蒸蒸日上。 本季出现在柏林时装周的所有国际设计师 中，Hien Le的系列最能体现德国首都的优雅风尚。 设计师以练达的线条与强烈的结构感，打造出一系 列极简风格的单品。其中最为脱颖而出的是一件 有着蓝色、黄色与红色金鱼印花的单品。“这是一个 好兆头，柏林时装周正变得越来越国际化，全球设 计师们都出现在柏林并将其视为绝佳平台，”Le表 示。“柏林有许多才华横溢的设计师，包括Vladimir Karaleev、Perret Schaad与Sissi Götze等等数不 胜数。” 随着柏林时装周的主要参与者们持续被全球年 青一代设计师视为灵感来源，这一盛事的国际视野 将得到不断拓展。柏林非洲时尚日为极富震撼力、缤 纷多彩的系列提供催化剂，助其席卷T型台并撼动 德国时尚界。正如Oola所指出，“对下一代人而言这 是一个重要的开始。” mbfashionweek.com, soboye.com, studio1981.com, maxhosa.co.za, hien-le.com, vladimirkaraleev.com, perretschaad.com, sissigoetze.com

66: Guerilla Chic 时尚叛逆军

Kaviar Gauche十年前风风火火闯入时尚界，时 至今日仍以摇滚反叛精神影响风尚格局，Verity Hogan报道 “我们的作品都是脱胎于矛盾与冲突的。我们喜欢 女人在优雅妩媚的同时，又带有些许叛逆。”Kaviar Gauche品牌自十年前在柏林成立之日起，就不断 突破时尚陈规。事实上，品牌亦是以一种叛逆的 姿态进入全球时尚圈视线的，设计师Alexandra Fischer-Roehler与Johanna Kühl曾于2004年在 巴黎时尚概念店Colette门外的大街上，上演了一场 游击时装秀。 在那以后，该品牌作为时装周主日程的一部分， 在巴黎进行过两场发布秀。品牌的2015春夏发布是 一场“成功且令人动容的时装秀，”设计师表示。“在巴 黎发布作品与在柏林截然不同。在巴黎，我们必须打 动那些可能从未听说过我们的国际观众。在德国， 无论在多小的镇上问一个对时尚多漠不关心的老 妇，她都很可能知道我们是谁。” 说Kaviar Gauche在全球范围内声名远播绝 不为过，他的典型顾客也远比普通德国老太太迷人 许多。品牌的主要受众是那些坚强、美丽与优秀的 女性，其拥趸包括德国女明星Heike Makatsch与 英国超模Rosie Huntington-Whiteley。品牌宣扬 的美学是“结合摇滚元素、富有摩登魅力的女性化前 卫风格”，设计师表示他们希望看到英国女星Keira Knightly与法国女星 Joséphine de la Baume穿着 自己的作品。

PHOTO: DAN & CORINA LECCA

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在2015年春夏，设计师们推出了一个可被视作 集过去十年来累积的设计经验、重要影响与灵感来 源之大成的系列。这个系列在阳刚与阴柔之间达到 完美平衡：设计师将女性化廓形与华丽夸张元素、 以及错置形态之间的流动体量感相结合，并以一组 浓烈而又柔和的色彩将其完美演绎。 设计灵感来自不同的源头，但柏林是品牌设计 中永不缺席的存在。“除了那些对我们的工作流程 与设计有影响力的人们，我们挚爱的城市柏林赋予 我们场景、印象与灵感，指导着Kaviar Gauche的 风格，” Kühl表示。“但即便如此，不同的城市，尤其 是巴黎，也为我们提供了许多激发灵感的瞬间与概 念。”品牌在成立10周年之际，通过在柏林举办的一 次特别展览来纪念与这座城市千丝万缕的关系：“我 们就是觉得应该在柏林举办这次活动，如此我们才 能邀请到许多从一开始就相信并支持我们的人。” 从巴黎ESMOD学院的时装设计专业毕业 后，Kühl与Fischer-Roehler就以无造作的时髦 globalblue.com

风格而为人所知。品牌得名于一句法语：“它来自 于“gauche caviar”，可以被翻译为香槟社会主义。这 个词基本描述了我们的设计与消费理念，”FischerRoehler解释道。Kaviar Gauche的作品经常将材 质、透明度与体量玩弄于股掌之间，创造出引人入 胜、具有摩登魅力的酷感诱惑。各种高级定制细节与 奢华面料的运用，则为其平添几分不可替代性。 品牌在德国境内的高认知度，归功于一系列高 水准的合作。在2008年，Kühl与Fischer-Roehler 为Karstadt集团创作了一个限量系列，包括70年 代风格的连衣裙、束腰外衣和上衣；他们还在2010 年推出了鞋履系列Görtz，并为自然美容品牌Dr Hauschka创作了限量版的化妆包。一系列合作是 基于共同的理念：“我们必须要理念一致。其他公司 需要认可我们的美学。否则无法合作，”设计师解释 道。“当然这是一项合作，你不能忽视合作方的意愿， 但他们必须信任我们。基于以上原则执行的项目，到 头来都非常成功。” 协同合作是Kühl与Fischer-Roehler最得心应 手的事之一，他们在已经一起工作了10年，几乎没 有什么创作上的分歧。“当然，我们有时会持有不同 的看法，但这相当罕见，因为我们信任对方。”同时 拥有两位创意核心或许是该品牌具有招牌二元性的 原因；2015年春夏系列充满对比，将休闲随意的面 料与视觉效果强烈的几何图形相结合，制造出巨大 冲击力。 这是品牌的制胜法则，在成立10年之后品牌上 升的强烈势头丝毫不见减弱的迹象。“我们正计划扩 大在国际市场的影响力，”他们满怀信心。“经营执照 的问题已经得到解决，现在我们正计划开设更多门 店；我们的零售店已经取得了巨大的成功。” 看来，德国的时尚叛逆分子正成为全球时尚界 社区里备受尊敬的成员。 kaviargauche.com 日本語翻訳

97: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

‫‪109‬‬

‫الطبيعي‪ .‬تقول الص ّممة ف هذا الطار‪“ :‬التفاهم الشتك أساس‬ ‫أي شاكة‪ .‬عل الشكة ا“خرى أن تكون ملئة وتقتنع بأساليب‬ ‫الجمل التي نتّبعها وإل فشلت الشاكة‪ .‬بالطبع إنّه تعاون ول‬ ‫يكن تجاهل أمان الشكاء‪ ،‬لكن عليهم أن يثقوا بنا‪ .‬ولهذا السبب‪،‬‬ ‫نجحت الشاريع التي بُنيت عل هذه البادئ‪”.‬‬ ‫تبع ‪ Kühl‬و ‪Fischer-Roehler‬بالتعاون وقد عملتا‬ ‫سويّاً طوال عش سنوات مع بعض الفروقات البتكاريّة البسيطة‪.‬‬ ‫“بالطبع ل تلتقي أفكارنا ف بعض ا“حيان‪ ،‬لكن نادرا ً ما يحصل‬ ‫ذلك إذ نثق ببعضنا البعض‪ ”.‬ومن المكن أن تكون الزدواجيّة‬ ‫التي تشهر بها العلمة وليدة هذا ا“ثر الشتك لفكرين مبدعي؛‬ ‫تتلعب مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2015‬بالنتاقضات فتجمع بي‬ ‫القطع العمليّة وا“شكال التكلّفة القويّة إل ح ّد كبي‪.‬‬ ‫إنّها معادلة رابحة وما من إشارة إل أي تراجع ف الحمسة‬ ‫صح الص ّممتان ف هذا السياق‪:‬‬ ‫بعد عش سنوات من العمل‪ .‬ت ّ‬ ‫التوسع ف السوق العالي‪ .‬نعمل حاليّاً عل التاخيص‬ ‫“نسعى إل ّ‬ ‫ونخطّط لفتح مزيد من متاجر العلمة الواحدة إذ حقّقت متاجرنا‬ ‫نجاحات باهرة‪”.‬‬ ‫يبدو أ ّن ث ّوار ا“زياء ف ألانيا بدأو يحظون بالحتام ف‬ ‫مجتمع ا“زياء العالي‪.‬‬ ‫‪kaviargauche.com‬‬ ‫‪When you shop the world,‬‬ ‫‪shop tax free: 97‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小‬‬ ‫。‪票‬‬ ‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台‬‬ ‫‪请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联‬‬ ‫。‪的退税点领取您的退税款‬‬ ‫‪联系方式：‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫。‪最低消费 €25 并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税‬‬ ‫‪请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除‬‬ ‫‪管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收‬‬ ‫。‪取现金退税手续费‬‬

‫‪97: When you shop the world,‬‬ ‫‪shop tax free‬‬ ‫‪海外でのお買い物が免税に‬‬ ‫‪グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利‬‬ ‫‪用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に‬‬ ‫‪ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に‬‬ ‫。‪なります‬‬ ‫‪年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー‬‬ ‫。‪の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください‬‬ ‫‪手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し‬‬ ‫・‪ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル‬‬ ‫‪ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを‬‬ ‫。‪踏むだけです‬‬

‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬

‫‪1. お買い物‬‬ ‫‪お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免‬‬ ‫‪税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ‬‬ ‫。‪さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに‬‬

‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪2. 還付請求‬‬ ‫‪ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認‬‬ ‫‪印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付‬‬ ‫。‪事務所で払い戻しを受けます‬‬

‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪€25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5‬‬ ‫‪％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額‬‬ ‫‪は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差‬‬ ‫‪し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ‬‬ ‫‪い。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望‬‬ ‫‪の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され‬‬ ‫。‪ます‬‬

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‫‪PHOTO: DAN & CORINA LECCA‬‬

‫‪Guerilla Chic: 66‬‬

‫أناقة ثائرة‬

‫دخلت علمة ‪ Kaviar Gauche‬عال الزياء منذ حوال العقد‬ ‫وما زالت تط ّعم الساليب بنفحة من ثورة الروك أند رول‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫‪Verity Hogan‬‬

‫نحب الرأة النيقة التي تتمتّع‬ ‫“تقوم مجموعاتنا عل التناقضات‪ّ .‬‬ ‫وبح“ من الثورة ف الوقت عينه‪ ”.‬تخالف العلمة قواعد‬ ‫بالنوثة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الزياء منذ تأسيسها ف برلي منذ عش سنوات‪ .‬ف الواقع‪ ،‬دخلت‬ ‫مجال الزياء العالي من خلل فعلٍ ثائر تثّل بإطلق الص ّممتي‬ ‫‪ Alexandra Fischer-Roehler‬و‪Johanna Kühl‬‬ ‫مجموعتهم الول بعرض أزياء جريء ف الشارع أمام التجر‬ ‫التخصص ‪ Colette‬سنة ‪.2004‬‬ ‫الباريس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مذّاك‪ ،‬عرضت العلمة ابتكاراتها م ّرتي ف باري“‪ ،‬كجزء من‬ ‫البنامج الرئيس‪ .‬وتصف الص ّممتان عرض مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫‪ 2015‬بالـ “الناجح والبهر”‪ .‬تضيفان‪“ :‬العرض ف باري“ مختلف‬ ‫عنه ف برلي‪ .‬ففي باري“‪ ،‬علينا أن نُقنع جمهورا ً عاليّاً من المكن‬ ‫أن ل يكون قد سمع ع ّنا‪ .‬أ ّما ف ألانيا‪ ،‬فيمكنك أن تسأل ع ّنا امرأة‬ ‫كبية بالس ّن ل تهت ّم بالزياء ف إحدى القرى الصغية‪ ،‬وعل الرجح‬ ‫أنها ستعرفنا‪”.‬‬ ‫يصح القول إ ّن ‪ Kaviar Gauche‬حقّقت شهرة سيّئة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عاليّاً وإ ّن زبونتها النموذجيّة أجمل بكثي من الرأة اللانيّة‬ ‫التقليديّة‪ .‬تستهدف العلمة الرأة القويّة الفاتنة الوهوبة ومن‬ ‫معجباتها ‪ Heike Makatsch‬و‪Rosie Huntington-‬‬ ‫‪ .Whiteley‬يتلخّص أسلوب العلمة بالـ “النثوي البتكر الميّز‬ ‫وتعب الص ّممتان‬ ‫بسح ٍر عصي تتخلّله عناص الروك أند رول” ّ‬ ‫عن رغبتهم ف رؤية ‪ Keira Knightly‬و‪Joséphine de la‬‬ ‫‪ Baume‬ترتديان تصاميمهم‪.‬‬ ‫كل‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2015‬ابتكرت الص ّممتان مجموعة تلخّص ّ‬ ‫التجارب ومصادر التأثي واللهام التي صادفتهم ف العقد الاض‪.‬‬ ‫توازي الجموعة بامتياز بي السلوبي الذكوري والنثوي‪ :‬توقّعوا‬ ‫منسقة مع عناص كبية فضفاضة وقطع منسدلة‬ ‫تصاميم أنثويّة ّ‬ ‫عشوائيّة الشكل بألوان قويّة لكن هادئة‪.‬‬ ‫ت ًستوحى الجموعة من مصادر متعدّدة مع الحتفاظ بوجود‬ ‫دائم لبلي‪ .‬تقول ‪“ :Kühl‬بالضافة إل الشخاص الذين يؤث ّرون‬ ‫عل مسار عملنا وتصاميمنا‪ ،‬تنحنا مدينتنا الحبيبة برلي ذكريات‬ ‫وانطباعات وأمثلة تحدّد أسلوب ‪ .Kaviar Gauche‬لكن‬ ‫وبخاصة باري“‪ ،‬ذكريات‬ ‫بالرغم من ذلك‪ ،‬تقدّم لنا بع” الدن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وأفكارا ً تشكّل مصدر إلهامنا‪ ”.‬وقد احتفلت العلمة بتعاونها‬ ‫العريق مع برلي ف عيدها العاش من خلل تقديم عرض خاص‬ ‫ف الدينة‪“ :‬كان من اللئم أن نعرض ف برلي لنتمكّن من دعوة‬ ‫الشخاص الذين آمنوا بنا وآزرونا منذ اللّحظة الول‪”.‬‬ ‫منذ تخ ّرجتا من قسم تصميم الزياء من ‪ ESMOD‬ف‬ ‫باري“‪ ،‬اشتهرت ‪ Kühl‬و ‪ Fischer-Roehler‬بعملهم النيق‬ ‫من دون جهد‪ .‬تشح ‪ Fischer-Roehler‬أ ّن “السم مأخوذ من‬ ‫التعبي الفرنس “‪ ”gauche caviar‬الذي يعني يساري الكافيار‪.‬‬ ‫يصف تصاميمنا وفلسفة زبوناتنا”‪ .‬غالباً ما تتلعب مجموعات‬ ‫‪ Kaviar Gauche‬بالقمشة والشفافيّة والحجم لتبتدع تصميمً‬ ‫يدمج بي الغراء البتكر والسحر العصي‪ .‬ف حي تساهم الخياطة‬ ‫الدقيقة والقمشة الفاخرة ف زيادة فرادته‪.‬‬ ‫ت ُعزى شهرة العلمة الواسعة داخل ألانيا إل عدد من‬ ‫الشاكات الرفيعة الستوى‪ .‬سنة ‪ ،2008‬ابتكرت الص ّممتان‬ ‫خاصة بجموعة ‪ ،Karstadt‬شملت فساتي طويلة‬ ‫تشكيلة ّ‬ ‫وأخرى قصية وقمصاناً كلّها مستوحاة من السبعينات‪ ،‬كم أطلقتا‬ ‫مجموعة أحذية لـ ‪ GÖrtz‬سنة ‪ 2010‬وأنتجتا مجموعة محدودة‬ ‫الكميّة من حقائب الستحضات لشكة ‪ Dr Hauschka‬للجمل‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG/PETER MICHAEL DILLS‬‬

‫الفريقيّة عنه بالكامل‪ .‬أعتقد أنّه من الهم إضافة الزياء الفريقيّة‬ ‫خاصة بها‪”.‬‬ ‫إل الساحة اللانيّة ومنحها مساحة ّ‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2015‬قدّم عرض ‪ AFDB‬مهارات سيّد‬ ‫النقوش النيجيي ‪ Samson Soboye‬وعلمة ‪ 1981‬للمص ّممة‬ ‫الغانيّة ‪ Nana K Brenu‬وابتكارات بارعة من اللبسة الحبوكة‬ ‫من علمة ‪ .Maxhosa by Laduma‬وبا أ ّن ‪ Oola‬خلقت‬

‫الحدث ونظّمته بفردها‪ ،‬يتّضح لنا لا تس ّمي نفسها “رائدة”‪ .‬بعد‬ ‫خاصة‬ ‫مرور سنتي عل تأسيسه ل غي‪ ،‬كسب ‪ AFDM‬مكان ًة ّ‬ ‫وشهر ًة متزايدة‪ .‬تقول ‪ Oola‬ف هذا الطار‪“ :‬نقدّم للمص ّممي‬ ‫منصة ف أوروبا لدخول عال الزياء”‪.‬‬ ‫أفضل ّ‬ ‫منصة‬ ‫استفاد ‪ Samson Soboye‬من دون شك من ّ‬ ‫‪ .AFDB‬انطلق ف مجال تصميم الزياء بعد أن عمل لفتات‬ ‫كمنسق أزياء ومص ّمم داخل ولدى مجلّة ‪.Vogue UK‬‬ ‫قصية ّ‬ ‫تيّزت مجموعة ‪ Soboye‬لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2015‬عن غيها بفضل‬ ‫استخدام الص ّمم لنقوش صاخبة وجلود وتشكيلة واسعة من‬ ‫الكسسوارات؛ من أوشحة منقوشة وقبّعات كرة قاعدة إل قبّعات‬ ‫من دون طاسة‪ .‬يشح ‪ Soboye‬قائلً‪“ :‬شكّل تصميم مجموعتي‬ ‫الخاصة طريقة للتعبي عن جزء مختلف من ابتكاري‪ .‬أهوى مزج‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اللوان والنقوش التضاربة لخلق أسلوب ٍ مختلف وملفت وجريء‪.‬‬ ‫وأحب ر ّد فعل‬ ‫أشعر بالسعادة القصوى عندما أرتدي تصاميمي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشخاص عندما يرونني ف ابتكارات‪”.‬‬ ‫تعك“ بع” عناص أعمل ‪ Soboye‬الوضة الرائجة‪ ،‬لك ّنه‬ ‫يعب عنها باللوان الهادئة التي يفضّ لها ر ّواد الوضة اللان‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫ل ّ‬ ‫“أحب الفخامة‬ ‫الخاصة إليها‪ .‬يعلّق قائلً‪:‬‬ ‫يفضّ ل إضافة لسته‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العمليّة وقد ص ّممت بع” القطع بهذا السلوب؛ لكن من الواضح‬ ‫أ ّن النقوش قويّة ج ّدا ً لدرجة أنّها تبز أكث وتتك أثرا ً كبيا ً عل‬ ‫منصة العرض‪ .‬من الجميل أن نتميّز عن غينا ونتك انطباعاً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫راسخاً‪”.‬‬ ‫من الصم ّمي الخرين الذين لقوا استحساناً ف أسبوع‬ ‫برلي للموضة ‪ .Roshi Porkar‬شملت مجموعتها لربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫تعب عن تاثيل أميات ‪ Bactria‬التي‬ ‫‪ 2015‬تصاميم فضفاضة ّ‬ ‫أُنشئت منذ حوال أربعة آلف سنة ف منطقة باتت اليوم جزءا ً‬ ‫من أفغانستان‪ .‬من القطع الميّزة ف الجموعة فساتي دقيقة‬ ‫بلون الحار ذات أوراك مضخّمة وفساتي بشكل معاطف يتخلّلها‬ ‫الفرو الصطناعي‪ .‬وبوجود ‪ Haider Ackermann‬و‪Tilda‬‬ ‫‪ Swinton‬بي الحضور خلل عرض الزياء‪ ،‬من الواضح أ ّن نجم‬ ‫‪ Porkar‬يسطع أكث فأكث‪.‬‬ ‫كل الص ّممي العاليّي الذين عرضوا ف أسبوع برلي‬ ‫من بي ّ‬ ‫تعب مجموعة ‪ Hien Le‬أفضل تعبي عن‬ ‫للموضة هذا الوسم‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫أسلوب العاصمة اللانيّة الكلسيك‪ .‬شملت بع” القطع البسيطة‬ ‫ذات الخطوط النظيفة والتصاميم القويّة والنقوش ال ّباقة اللفتة‬ ‫لؤش جيّد أّ ّن‬ ‫بلون الزرق والصفر والحمر‪ .‬يقول ‪“ :Le‬إنّه ّ‬ ‫أسبوع برلي للموضة يزداد عاليّة ومزيد من الص ّممي العاليّي‬ ‫كمنصة لعملهم‪ .‬وتتمتّع برلي‬ ‫يعرضون ف برلي ويستخدمونها ّ‬ ‫بص ّممي رائعي نذكر منهم ‪ Vladimir Karaleev‬و‪Perret‬‬ ‫‪ Schaad‬و‪”.Sissi Götze‬‬ ‫ما زال اللعبون الساسيّون ف أسبوع برلي للموضة يشكّلون مصدر‬ ‫إلهام لجيل جديد من الص ّممي من حول العال‪ ،‬وما زال الحدث‬ ‫الخصص لفريقيا ‪Africa‬‬ ‫يجذب اهتمماً عاليّاً‪ .‬وقد ساعد اليوم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Fashion Day Berlin‬مجموعات مل ّونة مذهلة عل البدء‬ ‫منصات العرض وه ّز مجال الزياء اللانيّة‪ .‬عل ح ّد تعبي‬ ‫بعصف ّ‬ ‫‪“ :Oola‬إنّها بداية مرحلة عظيمة للجيل القادم‪”.‬‬ ‫‪،mbfashionweek.com ،soboye.com‬‬ ‫‪،studio1981.com ،maxhosa.co.za‬‬ ‫‪،hien-le.com ،vladimirkaraleev.com‬‬ ‫‪perretschaad.com ،sissigoetze.com‬‬

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‫مستوى عالي‬

‫‪PHOTO: AMDELA WARTENBERG‬‬

‫‪ Cropped Magazine‬التي ت“عنى بالزياء ف برلي‪“ :‬نظرا ً‬ ‫لوجود عدد هائل من مواهب التصميم الشابّة ف الدينة‪ ،‬من‬ ‫اله ّم أن يعمل الص ّممون والراكز التجاريّة مع بعضهم البعض”‪.‬‬ ‫من خلل البادرات التي يطلقها متجر ‪ ،Bikini Berlin‬يقدّم‬ ‫مواهب تصميم الزياء الصاعدة ف الدينة إل جمهي جديدة‪،‬‬ ‫المر الذي يلقى ترحيبا ً من قبل أشخاص عل سبيل ‪Oyranne‬‬ ‫‪ Dufour‬و‪ Maria Ziemann‬اللّتي تنظّمن نشاطات‬ ‫‪ Voodoo Market‬الدوريّة التي تعرض أعمل مص ّممي يافعي‪.‬‬ ‫تقولن ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬تساعد القاربة التي يتّبعها ‪Bikini‬‬ ‫‪ Berlin‬عل تسليط الضوء عل ما تتمتّع به الدينة من أسلوب‬ ‫تصميم يافع فريد من نوعه‪”.‬‬ ‫بالضافة إل مساعدة الزبائن عل استكشاف علمات تجاريّة‬ ‫جديدة‪ ،‬عل الراكز التجاريّة اليوم أن تقدّم “تجربة” تس ّوق‪ .‬يقول‬ ‫‪“ :Ludwig‬نلحظ تغييا ً اجتمعيّاً ف سلوك الشتي بحيث ل‬ ‫يشتي ما يحتاج من أغراض‪ ،‬بل ما يجذبه من تجارب‪ .‬لذا‪ ،‬بات‬ ‫التس ّوق أحد عناص التفيه حتّى أنّه ينافس نشاطات ترفيهيّة‬ ‫أخرى‪ ”.‬ولتلبية الحاجة التزايدة إل رحلت التس ّوق الحافلة‬ ‫بالتجارب‪ ،‬شمل ‪ Bikini Berlin‬صالت سينم ومنتزهاً عل‬ ‫سطحه ومعرضاً وفندق ‪.25hours‬‬ ‫أ ّما ف الركز التجاري ‪ ،Mall of Berlin‬فتقوم التجربة‬ ‫عل مساحة الشوع الطلقة وموقعه التاريخي‪ .‬افت“ت” ف أيلول‪/‬‬ ‫سبتمب ‪ 2014‬مش ّكلً الضافة الحدث إل لئحة الراكز التجاريّة‬ ‫ف ألانيا‪ .‬ش“ يّد ف موقع ‪ Wertheim‬الذي كان ف السابق من‬ ‫أضخم التاجر الكبى ف ألانيا‪ ،‬لذا يشغل مساحة شاسعة ويتض ّمن‬ ‫حاليّاً ‪ 270‬محلً موزّعي عل مساحة ‪ 76‬ألف متٍ مربّع‪ .‬يحوي‬ ‫حاليّا ً أكب قاعة طعام ف البلد وقد أعلن الط ّور العقاري ‪Harald‬‬ ‫‪ G Huth‬عن افتتاح خمسي متجرا ً جديدا ً ف العام ‪ ،2015‬ما‬ ‫يجعله الركز التجاري الضخم ف ألانيا بساحة ‪ 135‬ألف مت‬ ‫مربّع‪.‬‬ ‫يقع الركز التجاري ف النطقة الحيطة بساحة‬ ‫‪ Potsdamer‬وساحة ‪ Leipziger‬وشارع‬ ‫‪ Wilhelmstrasse‬ويض ّم أربعة طوابق مليئة بأسمء تجاريّة‬ ‫رائجة مثل ‪ H&M‬و‪ Mango‬و‪ Zara‬وعلمات كبى عل سبيل‬ ‫‪ Nike‬و‪ Aldi‬و‪ C&A‬ومجموعة من العلمات الفاخرة مثل‬ ‫‪ Hugo Boss‬و‪ Karl Lagerfeld‬و‪ .Strenesse‬انطلقاً من‬ ‫جذب إضافيّة ف ‪Mall of‬‬ ‫إدراك ‪ Huth‬لهميّة توفي عناص ٍ‬ ‫تحتل الطاعم أطرافه الز ّودة بساحات خارجيّة ويتّصل‬ ‫‪ّ ،Berlin‬‬ ‫به مج ّم ٌع يتض ّمن شققاً سكنيّة لليجار ومسارا ً للركض وحديق ًة‬ ‫عل السط”‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Schweisselmann‬عن هذين الركزين التجاريّي‪:‬‬ ‫“نظرا ً لقاربتهم الختلفة إل العلمات التجاريّة والص ّممي‪،‬‬ ‫يستحيل عل أي شخص أن يخ ّمن أسلوبهم الخاص‪ .‬بوجود‬ ‫يعب عن‬ ‫مجموعة واسعة من الحلت‪ ،‬يكن للجميع إيجاد ما ّ‬ ‫شخصيّتهم‪”.‬‬ ‫إن كنت من محبّي الوضة السيعة أو العلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫معي أو العلمات الجديدة‪ ،‬ل ّ‬ ‫شك أنّك ستجد ما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الخاصة بص ّمم ّ‬ ‫يناسب جيبك لدى الضافتي الخيتي إل مجال الراكز التجاريّة‬ ‫ف برلي‪.‬‬ ‫‪،bikiniberlin.de ،voodoomarket.de‬‬ ‫‪mallofberlin.de‬‬

‫‪World Class: 60‬‬

‫ماض بتقديم ب“ ٍ‬ ‫أسبوع برلي للموضة ٍ‬ ‫عد عالي من خلل عرض‬ ‫ابتكارات مص ّممي عاليّي‪ .‬تقرير ‪Sally McIlhone‬‬ ‫الكل يعرف عن شهرة الزياء اللانيّة بالعمليّة والبساطة‪ .‬من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تصاميم ‪ Hugo Boss‬المتازة إل ابتكارات ‪Jil Sander‬‬ ‫الرصينة‪ ،‬ي“عرف الص ّممون اللان بالبتعاد عن السلوب العشوائ‬ ‫والتكلّف واعتمد البساطة‪ .‬إل أنّه وشذوذا ً لهذه القاعدة‪ ،‬قصد‬ ‫منصات عرض أسبوع برلي للموضة‬ ‫عدد من الص ّممي العاليّي ّ‬ ‫حاملي معهم نقوشاً صاخبة وتصاميم فضفاضة ومقاربة جديدة‬ ‫إل القمشة‪ .‬وبوجود هؤلء الص ّممي الجريئي الجدد الساعي‬ ‫إل لفت انتباه معلّقي الزياء ف ألانيا‪ ،‬من الحتّم أن يأخذ هذا‬ ‫الحدث شكلً مختلفاً تاماً من الن فصاعدا ً‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر الشارة إل التغيي الساس ف أسبوع برلي للموضة‪،‬‬ ‫التمثّل بـ ‪)Africa Fashion Day Berlin )AFDB‬‬ ‫مخصصة للتصاميم الفريقيّة من ضمن برنامج العرض‬ ‫وهي فتة ّ‬ ‫الساس‪ .‬أطلقت ‪ Beatrace Angut Oola‬الفكرة سنة‬ ‫‪ 2012‬بعد زيارة قامت بها إل أوغندا‪ .‬تقول ف هذا الصدد‪:‬‬ ‫“كنت هناك ف الفتة المتدّة بي ‪ 2009‬و‪ 2010‬وأ“عجبت تاماً‬ ‫كمنسقة‬ ‫بأفلمها وموسيقاها وابتكارات التصميم‪ .‬وبطبيعة عمل ّ‬ ‫أزياء‪ ،‬لطالا حضت أسبوع برلي للموضة ولحظت غياب الزياء‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪PHOTO: BAYERISCHE HAUSBAU‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪Marvellous Malls: 52‬‬

‫مراكز تجاريّة رائعة‬

‫افتتاح آخر مركزين تجاريّي ف برلي‪ Bikini Berlin ،‬و‪Mall‬‬ ‫‪ ،of Berlin‬يساهمن ف جعل الدينة أحد أفضل أماكن التس ّوق‬ ‫ف أوروبا‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Gwyneth Holland‬‬

‫بفعل تن ّوع الناطق وتعدّد خيارات التس ّوق ف برلي‪ ،‬من الطبيعي‬ ‫ج ّدا ً أن يوفّر إثنان من أرقى الراكز التجاريّة ف الدينة تجارب‬ ‫تس ّوق مختلفة‪ .‬تعكس استقلليّة ‪ Bikini Berlin‬ومساحات‬ ‫‪ Mall of Berlin‬ال ّباقة ما تتميّز به برلي من دون غيها من‬ ‫دم ٍج بي الزياء الراقية والسلوب الفردي‪.‬‬ ‫منذ افتتاح متجر ‪ Bikini Berlin‬ف نيسان‪/‬أبريل‬ ‫‪ ،2014‬ما لبث أن أصب” مرتعاً للمبتكرين الذين تشتهر بهم‬ ‫الدينة كم ولحبّي التصميم العاص‪ .‬ش“ يّد البنى البارز ف شارع‬ ‫‪ Budapester Strasse‬سنة ‪ 1957‬وكان ف السابق جزءا ً‬ ‫من حديقة الحيوانات ف الدينة؛ نسب ًة إل القسم الزجاجي بي‬ ‫طابقيه العلوي والسفل‪“ ،‬س ّمي ‪ .Bikini House‬وقد ح ّولته‬

‫شكة التطوير العقاري اللانيّة ‪ Bayerische Hausbau‬وشكة‬ ‫الهندسة البلجيكيّة ‪ SAQ‬إل مرك ٍز للتجارة والعمل والضيافة‬ ‫والتفيه‪ .‬ونظرا ً لهذه الساحة غي التقليديّة‪ ،‬ق ّرر فريق ‪Bikini‬‬ ‫‪ Berlin‬خلق تجربة تس ّوق غي تقليديّة‪ .‬يقول ‪Kai-Uwe‬‬ ‫‪ Ludwig‬الدير التنفيذي لشكة ‪:Bayerische Hausbau‬‬ ‫“يع ّد ‪ Bikini Berlin‬نفسه متجرا ً‬ ‫متخصصاً حيث تتلقى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التخصصة والرئيسيّة الختارة‬ ‫مجموعة من الحلت والتاجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫والنسقة بعناية‪”.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يشمل الطابق الرض علمات تجاريّة مشهورة عل سبيل‬ ‫‪ Carhartt‬و‪ Vans‬و‪ Gant‬بالضافة إل مطاعم ومحلت‬ ‫تصميم وإلكتونيّات و‪“ 19‬صندوقاً”‪ :‬تشكّل هذه الساحات‬ ‫الخشبيّة الصغية محلت موقّتة لص ّممي وأصحاب أعمل جدد‬ ‫لفتة تت ّد بي ثلثة أشهر وسنة؛ من أحدث الستأجرين صالون‬ ‫ومحل أحجيات ومتجر‬ ‫ومحل للعناية بالحواجب ّ‬ ‫لتصفيف الشعر ّ‬ ‫ومحل زهور‪ .‬كم افتتحت بعض العلمات‬ ‫للقرطاسيّة الحرفيّة ّ‬ ‫العروفة محلت موقّتة هنا مثل ‪ Alessi‬و‪ Weleda‬و‪Laurél‬‬ ‫و‪ Bugaboo‬بالضافة إل علمات محليّة ومنها علمة الزياء التي‬ ‫تراعي معايي الخلق ‪ Folkdays‬و‪ Mercy Would‬للنظارات‬ ‫وخبي ربطات العنق ‪ Edsor Berlin‬ومجوهرات ‪.Nallik‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ ،Lisa Schweisselmann‬مح ّررة مد ّونة‬

114 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

WELL GROOMED Aiming to strip away superfuous embellishments and focus on each product’s core functionality, Berlin-based Simon & Me is a label with a philosophy of longevity and modernity. As with many of its creations, the Gents’ Comb is completely handcrafted, from the cutting to the polishing, and is produced from high-quality materials. Add to this its undeniable attractiveness and it becomes Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 97

a must-have for any well-travelled gentleman.

Find the comb at the team’s recently opened concept store Local, which stocks the widest selection of Simon & Me products, alongside a range of other great items sourced from across the globe for their adherence to the brand’s refned and modern aesthetics. hl Simon & Me comb, €20, Local, Fidicinstrasse 17, 10965 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8130 6506, simonandme.com

BOGNER BERLIN

Kurf端rstendamm 42

bogner.com