BELGIUM | 比利时 | БЕЛЬГИЯ |
بلجيكا
BELGIUM Country Edition Spring/Summer 2019
EXPLORE BELGIUM: discover the luxury highlights of this vibrant country with our insiders’ guide
CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS the pioneering fashion o Belgium’s top designer
So amazing shopping So inno !
The biggest department store in Belgium. More than 600 brands under one roof. • Galeria Inno Antwerpen Meir 80-82 - 2000 Antwerpen • Galeria Inno Brugge Steenstraat 11 - 8000 Brugge • Galeria Inno Brussels rue Neuve 111 - 1000 Brussels • Galeria Inno Liège pl. de la République Française 15 - 4000 Liège • Galeria Inno Louise av. Louise 12 - 1050 Brussels • Galeria Inno Gent Veldstraat 86 - 9000 Gent
So many styles !
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen Germany
أملانيا 德国 Германия Helsinki Area Istanbul Italy Lebanon London
Welcome to Belgium
Madrid
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this appealing little country. Don’t miss our feature on Belgium’s pioneering fashion designers (page 24), enjoy our round-up of the key looks this season and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Belgium. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Belgium. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
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CONTRIBUTORS
REBECCA RHYS-EVANS SHOP’s associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca RhysEvans has a degree in American literature from Liverpool University and formerly ran the online team at Flannels.com. She has previously written for British and international fashion brands. globalblue.com
SALLY MCILHONE As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to Refinery29, Stylist and Total Film online.
ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE
ANDREW NYE Andrew Nye has brought his striking conceptual style to this season’s cover of SHOP Belgium. His illustration depicts a passenger entering beautiful and ornate Antwerp Central railway station, whose windows and archways sparkle like diamonds. Andrew’s other clients include Barclays and Eurostar. Discover SHOP Belgium and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L
PUBLISHING
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editors Ye Ye, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
G LO B A L B L U E B E LG I U M Managing director Benelux Jorn Hoogesteijn Key account manager and marketing Irene Schermer Customer relations Mila Kurum, Arpine Okmez Key account manager Jennifer de Vos Sales manager Benelux Kim Joostens Account manager Jan Keymis, Niels Leunens Global Blue Belgium, Excelsiorlaan 33, 1930 Zaventem Belgium
Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Midweight designer Kiranjeet Kaur Junior designer Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue
And
so much more... — www.tollet.com —
CONTENTS CHECK OUT 14 SHOP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season
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PRODUCTS 16 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
SHOP WINDOW 20 Discover the new Messika boutique in Brussels in Belgium
NEWS 22 Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
FEATURE CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS 24 The ground-breaking Antwerp Six group of designers made a huge impact in the 1980s, and their legacy lives on. Rebecca Rhys-Evans takes a look at Belgium’s fashion leaders of today, from Raf Simons to bag brand Kipling Above: a recent Clio Goldbrenner campaign
GUIDE 31 Maps and guides to Belgium’s top shops and destinations
HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 47 The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
TRANSLATIONS 48 中文 翻 译 50 Русский Перевод 56 SOUVENIR 58 The essential item to bring home
CONTRIBUTORS X X X XXX
XXXX English. 中国的 Chinese
русский язык Russian
ILLUSTRATION: XXXXXXX; PHOTO: XXXXXXX
Discover SHOP Xxxx and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
XXXX English.
XXXX English.
中国的 Chinese
中国的 Chinese
русский язык Russian
globalblue.com
русский язык Russian
CHECK OUT
PURE BRILLIANCE Launched in 1958 for the World Expo in Brussels, Delvaux’s Brillant bag has become the acclaimed signature piece of the historic Belgian brand. For spring/ summer 2019 this classic style has been given a modern facelift. Inspired by travel, adventure and a bohemian spirit, the pictured pale pink design features a selection of beads and semi-precious stones in Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
a bold, glistening pattern. Easily teamed with a casual or smart look, this innovative design from the 190-year-old brand is the perfect piece of Belgium to take anywhere in the world. lt Delvaux Brillant bag, price on request, Delvaux, 27 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 0502, delvaux.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 36
W O L F O R D B O U T I Q U E H ASS E LT Diesterstraat 6 | B R U SS E L Avenue Louise 40 | K N O K K E Kustlaan 241 B R U G G E Noordzandstraat 36 | G E N T Koestraat 19 | A N T W E R P E N Oudaan 15, Winkel 6 W O L F O R D O U T L E T M A AS M E C H E L E N V I L L AG E Zetellaan 113
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P E R F E C T LY A N G R Y / # T R U E CH A R A C T E R
16 | P R O D U C T S
Pandora bracelet, €79, Galeria Inno, Steenstraat 13, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330603, pandora.net Max Mara sunglasses, €213, Max Mara, Noordzandstraat 74, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 341444, maxmara.com
Maje top, €175, Maje, Hopland 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 227 1977, maje.com
Team wide-leg blue trousers with a classic trench and add modern silver extras for a fresh spring look Sandro trousers, €185, Sandro, 28 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 8660, sandro-paris.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
PHOTO: (TROUSERS) FRED FURGOL
NEW NAUTICAL
S H O P | 17
Cos earrings, €18, Cos, Korte Gasthuisstraat 16-18, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 400 3440, cosstores.com
Rolex watch, €41,150, Rolex Hall of Time, 55 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 5811, rolex.com
PHOTOS: (SHOES) OLIVIER MESNAGE; (WATCH) ROLEX
Boss coat, €645, Boss, Huidevettersstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 6605, hugoboss.com
Longchamp shoes, €360, Longchamp, 5 avenue Louise, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 543 0260, longchamp.com
globalblue.com
Prada bag, €3,100, SN3, Frankrijklei 46, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0820, prada.com
18 | P R O D U C T S
LOOK SHARP
Add a flash of colour to your sartorial style with a deep red suit
Cartier watch, from €6,000, Cartier, 54 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 537 5161, cartier.com
Zara blazer, €69.95, Zara, Huidevettersstraat 39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 224 7290, zara.com
Burberry wallet, €250, Burberry, 16 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 402 4400, burberry.com
Church’s shoes, €450, Church’s, 2 place Stéphanie, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 4430, church-footwear.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
Zara trousers, €39.95, Zara, Huidevettersstraat 39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 224 7290, zara.com
HIGH SHINE Messika recently opened its first boutique in Belgium, on place du Grand Sablon in Brussels. With its cream and grey interior, the new store reflects the jewellery label’s sophisticated identity. The brand was founded in 2005 by Valérie Messika, daughter of a famous diamond merchant, who wanted to create beautiful Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
jewellery that would showcase this most precious of stones. Messika’s renowned collections include Glam’azone, Move and a collaboration with world-famous model Gigi Hadid. grc Messika, 20 place du Grand Sablon, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 669 8880, messika.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 32
PHOTO: AUDE MONIER
SHOP WINDOW
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AQUA INSPIRATION In 2019 Belgian brand Filles Ă Papa celebrates its 10th anniversary. Over the past decade, it has come to be known for its young, rebellious designs. The spring/summer 2019 collection is defined by a pool vibe, with aquatic themed T-shirts, shimmering details, checkerboard towels and palm tree motifs. grc SN3, Frankrijklei 46, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0820, fillesapapa.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42
FIRST STEPS Scotch & Soda has added to its collections with the introduction of a new footwear line produced in collaboration with Hamm. The inaugural range spans slides, trainers and boots for women, while men can choose from trainers, brogues and suede boots. Tying in with the brand’s spring/ summer 2019 collection, the footwear marries the colour scheme and prints of the season. grc Scotch & Soda, Noordzandstraat 21, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)5 089 0911, scotch-soda.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
ADVENTURE TIME Montblanc honours its Minerva watches of the 1920s and 30s with this year’s four 1858 timepieces (from €2,290), which were unveiled at Salon International de la Haute Horologie, or SIHH. Pairing a khaki green and bronze design with inhouse complications, the two Montblanc 1858 Automatics, the Chronograph and the Geosphere, all draw on a spirit of adventure, and are perfect for intrepid explorers with a sartorial penchant. grc
PERFECT PAIR Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi has worked with Marina Rinaldi for a second consecutive season and the resulting Marina Rinaldi by Fausto Puglisi spring/ summer 2019 capsule collection consists of 16 pieces, spanning outerwear, dresses, tops, skirts and the new addition of trousers. Besides using vibrant colours, globalblue.com
Montblanc, 11 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 514 1438, montblanc.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37
Puglisi designed an original print for the collection. Pumps and a belt round out the offering. Marina Rinaldi’s ambassador, model Ashley Graham, is the face of this elegant range. grc Marina Rinaldi, 17 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 539 2094, marinarinaldi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37
PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM
CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS
Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts is one of the most prestigious art schools in the world, as well as being one of the oldest such institutions in Europe (it was founded in 1663). Its fashion department shaped six of Belgium’s most influential designers. The Antwerp Six ‒ Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee ‒ were all taught by the academy’s head of fashion, Linda Loppa. They variously graduated in 1980 and 81, and, after showing their collections at London Fashion Week in 1988, they had a radical impact on the fashion landscape.
The groundbreaking Antwerp Six group of designers made a huge impact in the 1980s, and their legacy lives on. Rebecca Rhys-Evans profiles Belgium’s fashion leaders of today, from Raf Simons to renowned bag brand Kipling Milan, Paris and London are so dominant in European fashion that we sometimes overlook Belgium’s longstanding relationship with the world of style. Yet over the years, the country has produced some of the most pioneering legends of fashion. 48
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Their vision, both as a group and individually, transformed Belgium’s reputation for fashion and creativity. Their collections were challenging and gamechanging, shifting tastes and introducing a new avant-garde aesthetic. They subsequently started eponymous labels, perhaps most notably Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, and Walter Van Beirendonck also styled costumes, famously for U2. Now variously working around the world, the Antwerp Six left their mark on Belgium’s creative scene and paved the way for other designers and brands. Aspiring artists and creatives from Belgium and beyond have flocked to Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Notable alumni of the academy include Martin Margiela, Demna Gvasalia and Haider Ackermann. In addition, self-trained fashion designer Raf Simons received much encouragement from Linda Loppa. Martin Margiela attended the academy just before the Antwerp Six, and he is often considered an honorary seventh member of the group. On graduating, the designer worked freelance for a number of years, including a stint with Jean Paul Gaultier, before launching his eponymous label in 1988. Margiela has always kept a low profile, never Previous: Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2019
Above: Maison Margiela spring/summer 2019
PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM
Since the 1980s, Belgian fashion has established itself as rule-breaking
PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) FRIEDRICH TELLBERG CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS; (TOP RIGHT) GORUNWAY.COM; (BOTTOM) DAN & CORINA LECCA
S H O P | 27
being interviewed or photographed and remaining all but invisible despite his huge influence. The mystery man of fashion was creative director of Hermès between 1997 and 2003. Today his own brand, now known as Maison Margiela, is led by John Galliano, who was appointed creative director in 2014. Raf Simons started his career as a furniture designer but, encouraged by Linda Loppa, became a self-trained menswear designer. He has been creative director for minimalist womenswear brand Jil Sander, a position he also held at Christian Dior and Calvin Klein. His eponymous menswear brand was founded in 1995, and in 2005 Raf by Raf Simons was introduced as a diffusion line with a similar aesthetic and lower price point. Above (clockwise from top left): the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp; Raf Simons; Walter Van Beirendonck, both spring/summer 2019
The designer has enjoyed many collaborations and in recent years these have pushed him to the forefront of contemporary streetwear fashion; notable examples include collections with Adidas, Fred Perry, Eastpak and Asics, and also with Danish homeware design brand Kvadrat. Known for his fluid capabilities,
from couture at Dior to streetwear with Adidas, Raf Simons offers inspirational contemporary European fashion design, and he has been a major influence on Kanye West’s music and fashion line Yeezy. Today some of the Antwerp Six live outside Belgium, but the effect of the group and the concepts they introduced live on in the country. Their legacy is not only embraced by individual designers – many luxury and high-street brands have also been strongly influenced by them and have accomplished much in recent years. Accessories design is on the up, and eyewear and watch brand Komono has been much acclaimed for its sleek, simple and functional timepieces as well as its optical frames and sunglasses range marketed at affordable prices.
Above (from top): Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2019; a Komono Winston Royale watch
PHOTO: (TOP) GORUNWAY.COM
28 | F E AT U R E
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) GORUNWAY.COM
S H O P | 29
There has been a rise in bag brands, too; in this era of affordable luxury accessories Marvais, Ms Bay and Clio Goldbrenner bridge the gap between high street and high fashion and offer achievable prices. If we’re talking Belgian bags, it would be a crime not to mention Kipling, the high street hero that specialises in luggage, backpacks and other carriers. A go-to brand around the world, Kipling is known for the lightweight, colourful nylon fabric used in its many travel items. It, too, was founded in Antwerp in the 1980s, adding to a golden era of design for the city. Since the 1980s, Belgian fashion has established itself as rulebreaking. Looking to the future and enjoying avant-garde creations, whether from commercial brands or graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, it champions design that transcends seasonal trends. Drawing inspiration from youth culture, music and technology, Belgian fashion designers often achieve cult status. From highlights such as Dries Van Noten’s prints, Margiela’s trench coat and Raf Simons’ utilitarian menswear, it’s clear that Belgium’s fashion designers set trends, rather than follow them Above (clockwise from top left): a recent Clio Goldbrenner campaign; Kipling; Ann Demeulemeester, both spring/summer 2019
E.R.: Johan Soenens, Jean Monnetlaan 1, 1804 Vilvoorde. www.c-a.com
Find your nearest store on c-a.com
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a cool haven of modern art to the old town of Dinant on the River Meuse (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.
PHOTO: JIUGUANG WANG CC 0 CREATIVE COMMONS
BELGIUM GUIDE
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DELBÔVE Passionate about science and botany, Belgian skincare brand Delbôve started in 1967. It takes a holistic approach to cosmetics, emphasising that beauty comes from feeling good ‒ and from a natural beauty regime. The brand’s two stores, in Antwerp and Brussels, have minimalist interiors that feature wood and gold hardware details. They are as carefully styled as the labels of the brown bottles that each product comes in, and they are havens for any beauty fanatic. Our recommendation is to try the Crème Sorcière, a balancing cream and cleanser that the brand is known for.
Delbôve, 67 rue de l’Abbaye, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 648 0449, delbove.com
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38 | B E LG I U M G U I D E
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GODEFRIDUSK A AI
ST R A AT
S H O P | 39
BERNADETTE Luxury fashion brand Bernadette is making waves among the style elite. It was started by mother and daughter duo Bernadette and Charlotte De Geyter, and its signature piece is an ultra-feminine floral print midi dress inspired by boudoir dressing. Femininity is key to this brand; its clothes are designed by women for women, and each style can be worn by women of all ages. Renaissance, Nationalestraat 32, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 369 0108, bernadetteantwerp.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ANAĂ? S DYCKMANS
APC APC combines classic Parisian laid-back style and high-quality fabrics to present cool yet casual favourites. Giving your everyday wardrobe the overhaul you didn’t realise it needed, the brand offers cuts and structure often found in Japanese and Scandinavian fashion, and its streetwear style is redolent of
globalblue.com
Berlin, New York and London. It delivers some of the mostwanted leather accessories, graphic T-shirts, denim and trainers on the international fashion landscape. APC, Lombardenvest 12B, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 5054, apc.fr FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
40 | B E LG I U M G U I D E
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FLORIS VAN BOMMEL ●
PETIT BATEAU ● CAROLINE BISS ● BANANA MOON ● MICHAEL KORS ● NATAN ● TENSEN ● FRED PERRY ● STATE OF ART ●
HOGAN ● IITTALA ● NICO TAEYMANS ● FALKE ● SUPERTRASH ● STATE OF ART ● DELBÔVE ●
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Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
Cos Ice Watch Men At Work Sacha Tommy Hilfiger
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Galeria Inno, Meir 80-82, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 1950, inno.be Galeria Inno is the only department store in Belgium, and it is the go-to hub for the latest fashion; here you’ll find everything from Bulgari to Balmain. Galeria Inno stocks more than 600 brands, and in the Antwerp store you’ll find homeware, accessories, beauty and stationery, quite apart from fashion. Always striving to be ahead of the curve, the store aims to be all-encompassing in its services, from free Wi-Fi to watch repairs and a restaurant, the Lunch Garden, that’s perfect for a break from shopping.
KI
S H O P | 41
GALERIA INNO
Meir & Hopland
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42 | B E LG I U M G U I D E
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Featured In This Issue
S H O P | 43
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The Gulliver Tree
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AU POINT DE ROSE ● KANTENPARADIJS ● CHOCOHOLIC ● JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●
THE GULLIVER TREE Family-run café and tea room the Gulliver Tree is the kind of cosy pit stop you need when you’ve had a morning on your feet. With a long list of teas and excellent coffee on the menu, the Gulliver Tree ensures a relaxing break ‒ and there’s an array of homemade soups, pastries and cakes to tempt you. A friendly little gem in the heart of historic Bruges, this is a place with large inviting armchairs and a charming atmosphere that draws in the locals.
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The Gulliver Tree, Cordoeaniersstraat 4, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 731516, thegullivertree.be
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EXCLUSIVE GLOBAL BLUE OFFER 10% savings* on the outlet price in the boutiques and restaurants in Maasmechelen Village and complimentary transport‡ from Brussels You’ll receive your VIP Day Pass until 30 November 2019 on presentation of this original voucher in the Maasmechelen Village Tourist Information Centre. Book your complimentary ticket online at MaasmechelenVillage.com/shoppingexpress with the promotional code ‘Global19’ * Offer not valid in June and July and not valid in combination with other offers, promotions or round prices. Not exchangeable for cash. ‡Offer valid until 30 November 2019.
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46 | B E LG I U M G U I D E
SWATCH Since its inception, Swatch has championed the innovative use of materials, and its spring/summer 2019 collection perfectly illustrates this cutting-edge spirit. The new range is called Transformation (with pieces from €60) and it plays with optical illusions and special effects; timepieces are made with polarised glass which produces an iridescent look in the light.
Galeria Inno, Steenstraat 13, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330603, swatch.com
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Featured In This Issue
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TRANSLATIONS
中文翻译
24: CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS 先锋创造
米 兰、巴 黎和 伦敦一直占 据 欧 洲 时尚 主导 地位，导 致有 时候 我们 忽视了比 利时与时装界 的历史渊源。实际 上 这 些 年来，比 利时产生了一 批 时尚界最 具传 奇 色 彩 的先 锋人物。 创立于 1663年 的安 特卫普皇 家 艺 术 学 院 是世界上 最有名望 的 艺 术 院 校 之一，也是 欧 洲 历史 最 悠久 的 艺 术 机 构 之一。安 特卫普皇 家 艺 术 学 院 的时装设 计 专业 培 养了比 利时最具 影 响力的 六位设 计师，人 称 “安 特卫 普六君子”：Dries Van Noten，Ann
上图: Dries Van Noten 2019春夏
Demeulemeester，Dirk van Saene，Walter Van Beirendonck，Dirk Bikkembergs 以 及 Marina Yee。他们 都出自时 装设 计系 主任 Linda Loppa门下。 六君子 先 后在 1980年 和 1981年 毕 业，1988年 他们 一 行人 来 到伦敦 时 装 周共同展 示作品，一 炮而红，之 后 便 开始了各自在 时尚界风 风 火火 的 驰 骋之 路。 无 论 是 作为 一 个团体还 是 个人， 六君子 的时尚 理 念 彻底 改变了比 利 时 在 时尚 创意界 的声 望。他们 的作 品 极具挑 战 力 和 颠 覆 性，在 转 变品 味 的同时引进 全 新 的 前卫审 美 观 点。 六君子 随 后各自开 创同名品牌，其中 最 知名的要 数 Dries Van Noten 和 Ann Demeulemeester。Walter Van Beirendonck同时也设 计 演出服 装， 最 著名的客户是 U2乐队。 六君子目前 在世界 各地 发 展自 己的事业，但他们 仍然是 比 利时创
PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM
20世 纪80年 代，“安 特卫普六 君子”以划时代的设 计 新 理 念 撼 动了时尚界，其影响延 续至 今。Rebecca Rhys-Evans在 本文 中介绍了当下比 利时 潮牌，包 括Raf Simons和 著名箱包品 牌 Kipling等
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意 设 计 领 域 不 可忽视 的力量，为其 他同胞设 计师 和品牌 铺 路。比 利时 本土 和 世界 各地 的 创意 才俊 纷 纷涌 向安 特卫普皇 家 艺 术 学 院。Martin Margiela, Demna Gvasalia 和 Haider Ackermann都 是该学 院有 名的 校 友。自学成 才 的 设 计师 Raf Simons也受 到 Linda Loppa的诸 多 指导。 Martin Margiela是 六君子 的 师兄，他 通常 被 外界认 为 是 六君子 组合 的荣 誉成 员。毕业 后，Martin 先 是 做了几 年自由设 计师，为 Jean Paul Gaultier工作过一段 时间, 后在 1988年创立了自己的同名品牌。尽管 Martin对 时装界影 响巨大，却 一直 保 持 低 调，从 未 接 受 采访、拍照 或任 何形式 的 曝光。这位 神 秘 时尚 设 计师 是 爱马 仕（ Hermès）1997年到 2003 年间的 创意 总监。Martin的自有品 牌 Maison Margiela自 2014年起由 John Galliano出任 创意 总监。 Raf Simons最初 是 一名家具设 计师，在 Linda Loppa的 鼓 励下，自 学成 为男装设 计师。他是极简主义 女 装品牌 Jil Sander的 创意 总监，并在 Christian Dior 和 Calvin Klein担任 过同样 职 位。1995年，Raf Simons 创立了同名男装品牌，2005年又创立 副 线 Raf by Raf Simons，延 续 主 线 的美学理 念但价 格更实惠。 Raf Simons与很多设 计师 合 作 过，是 近 几 年 街头潮 流 风青 睐 有 加的 设 计师，跟 Adidas、 Fred Perry、Eastpak 和 Asics以 及 丹 麦 家居品牌 Kvadrat都 合作 过联名系 列。Raf Simons的风 格 多 变 灵活，无 论 是 Dior这等 高级 定制还 是 Adidas 街头 装，他 都 驾 驭自如，是 当代 欧 洲 时尚 设 计 的灵魂导师，Kanye West 的音乐 和潮 线 Yeezy就 受 到 Raf Simons的莫大 影 响。 目前，安 特卫普六君子虽 并不都 在 比 利时生活，但他们 的 影 响 和 理 念
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在 比 利时继 续 发 扬 光大。不论 是 独 立 设 计师，还 是 奢 侈品牌 和高街品牌， 都 深 受他们 的启发 和 影 响 并在 近 几 年大 获 成 功。 配饰 设 计日益 重要，Komono 因简约 流畅而又实用的手表、眼 镜 框 和太阳眼 镜 产品而大 获 好评， 而且价 格亲民。比 利时 的箱包品 牌 也日益流行，在 这个 轻 奢 配饰 时代，Marvais、Ms Bay 和 Clio Goldbrenner在高街 和高级 时尚 之 间 架 起了一座 桥，让 大 众 都负 担得 起。说 到比 利时 的 包，不 得不 提专注 于旅行 箱、双 肩包 和其它包包 款 式 的 Kipling。Kipling以轻巧、彩色 尼 龙 材质 的 旅行用品而成 为风 靡 全 球 的同类 产品的 首选 品牌。它的家乡 也是 安 特卫普，创立于 20世 纪 80年 代，是 这个 城 市 的 黄金 设 计 年 代 的 代 表 之一。 自 20世 纪 80年 代 起，比 利时 时尚 就 一直 颠 覆 既 有 的传 统 规 则。无 论 是 比 利时商业时装品牌还 是 安 特卫 普皇 家 艺 术 学 院 的毕业 生，他们 怀 揣 着的面向未 来的先 锋 创意，让 比 利时 的时尚 超 越 季度 流行。从青 年 文化、
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音乐 和 科 技中 汲取 灵 感，比 利时 时尚 设 计师 常 被 追 随者 封 神。Dries Van Noten的印 花、 Margiela的风 衣 和 Raf Simons的实用主义男装，这 些 大师 之作 证明了一点：比 利时 的时装 设 计师 引领 风尚，不追 随潮 流。
47: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多 万家商店消费时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服 务（ Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游 客 享用 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）的购 物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的 行列？您只 需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家 是 否 提 供环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue） 退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可：
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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
24: CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS БЕЛЬГИЙСКИЕ ГЕНИИ Антверпенская шестерка дизайнеров совершила прорыв в моде 1980‑х, и их идеи живут и сейчас. Ребекка РизЭванс рассказывает о современных стильных лидерах из Бельгии от Рафа Симонса до бренда сумок Kipling Милан, Париж и Лондон захватили европейскую моду настолько, что иногда мы просто не замечаем значительный вклад Бельгии в современный стиль. Однако в последние годы именно эта страна породила сразу несколько важных модных явлений. Королевская академия изящных искусств в Антверпене – одна из самых престижных художественных школ в мире, а заодно и один из самых старых вузов в Европе (она была основана в 1663 году). Факультету моды
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славу принесли шесть самых влиятельных бельгийских дизайнеров, объединившихся в Антверпенскую шестерку. Дрис Ван Нотен, Анн Демельмейстер, Дирк ван Сэн, Вальтер Ван Берендонк, Дирк Биккимбергс и Марина Йи учились у главы модного направления Линды Лоппа и окончили академию в 1980-1981 годах. А после презентации своих коллекций на Лондонской неделе моды в 1988 году они сумели изменить
весь модный ландшафт. Их подход к моде – и как команды, и каждого по отдельности – создал и укрепил репутацию Бельгии в этой сфере. Их коллекции стали вызовом, открывающим авангардную эстетику, меняющим вкусы и правила игры. Впоследствии, каждый из них основал бренд под собственным именем: пожалуй, Dries Van Noten и Ann Demeulemeester стали
Сверху: последняя рекламная кампания Clio Goldbrenner
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самыми успешными. А Walter Van Beirendonck разрабатывал не только коллекции, но и сценические костюмы, например, для U2. Сейчас дизайнеры из Антверпенской шестерки работают в разных точках земного шара, но они оставили неизгладимый след в креативной среде Бельгии и проложили дорогу для новых талантов. Амбициозные художники со всей Бельгии и из других стран стремятся учиться в Антверпенской академии. Среди ее выпускников – Мартин Маржела, Демна Гвасалия и Хайдер Акерман. А дизайнерсамоучка Раф Симонс получил благословение лично от Линды Лоппа. Мартин Маржела учился в Академии чуть раньше Антверпенской шестерки, поэтому его часто называют почетным седьмым участником группы. По окончании он несколько лет работал как фрилансер, в том числе на Жана-Поля Готье, а в 1988 году открыл бренд под своим именем. Маржела никогда не показывается на публике, не дает интервью и не фотографируется. Но его огромное влияние на моду просто невозможно игнорировать. Этот человекзагадка был креативным директором Hermès с 1997 по 2003 годы. А его собственный бренд, который сейчас называется Maison Margiela, globalblue.ru
возглавляет Джон Гальяно, назначенный креативным директором в 2014 году. Раф Симонс начал свою карьеру с дизайна мебели, но Линда Лоппа убедила его переключиться на мужскую одежду. Он был креативным директором минималистского бренда женской одежды Jil Sander, затем занимал аналогичную же позицию в Christian Dior и Calvin Klein. В 1995 году он открыл бренд мужской одежды под своим именем, а в 2005 году представил диффузную линию Raf by Raf Simons со схожей эстетикой, но более доступную по цене. Симонс постоянно сотрудничает с другими брендами, и в последние годы это привело его в авангард уличной моды. Среди примечательных примеров – коллекции для Adidas, Fred Perry, Eastpak и Asics, а также датского бренда домашнего декора Kvadrat. Кроме того, его стиль повлиял на музыку и модную линию Канье Уэста Yeezy. Разносторонний талант дизайнера позволяет ему создавать и кутюр в Dior, и стритстайл в Adidas – и вдохновлять современную европейскую моду. Сегодня некоторые участники Антверпенской шестерки живут за пределами Бельгии, но их идеи продолжают влиять на моду страны. Их наследие не только развивают самостоятельные дизайнеры, но
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PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM
и активно используют бренды разных сегментов, которые многого добились в последние годы. Когда дизайн аксессуаров оказался на подъеме, бренд Komono сумел громко заявить о себе благодаря лаконичным
Сверху: Ann Demeulemeester весна-лето 2019
и функциональным часам и оправам очков, в том числе солнцезащитных, по доступным ценам. Взлет ощущают и бренды сумок: в эпоху доступной роскоши аксессуары Marvais, Ms Bay и Clio Goldbrenner заполнили нишу между
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экономичным сегментом и высокой модой, предлагая вещи по разумным ценам. В разговоре о бельгийских сумках будет преступлением не упомянуть Kipling – лидера доступных аксессуаров, который специализируется на чемоданах, рюкзаках и других сумках для путешествий. Его коллекции, востребованные во всем мире, несложно узнать по легкому, прочному и яркому нейлону. Kipling тоже был основан в Антверпене в 1980-е и внес свой вклад в золотую эру дизайна в этом городе. С 1980-х бельгийская мода
постоянно ставит под сомнение границы допустимого. И выпускники Королевской академии, и бренды здесь уверенно смотрят в будущее и создают дизайн, который предвосхищает сезонные тренды. Черпая вдохновение из молодежной культуры, музыки и технологий, бельгийские дизайнеры порой приобретают статус культовых. Принты Дриса Ван Нотена, тренчи Маржелы и практичная мужская одежда Рафа Симонса – все это убеждает в том, что эти дизайнеры диктуют тренды, а не следуют им.
47: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.
globalblue.ru
2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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كبري عىل موسيقى Kanye Westوخ ّط األزياء الخاص به .Yeezy ّ اليوم ،يعيش بعض أفراد Antwerp Sixخارج بلجيكا ،لكن ما زال تأثري املجموعة ومفاهيمها قامئة يف البالد .مل يعتنق إرث َها مص ّممون متعدّدون فحسب ،بل تأث ّرت به أيضاً عدّة عالمات تجاريّة فاخرة وعاديّة وحقّقت الكثري يف السنوات األخرية. مع ازدهار مجال تصميم األكسسوارات، املختصة زاد الطلب عىل عالمة Komono ّ بالنظارات والساعات وذلك لساعاتها البسيطة العمليّة وأطر نظاراتها ونظاراتها املعقولة املختصة بالحقائب السعر .كام لحظت العالمات ّ من ّوا ً واضحاً؛ ففي زمن الفخامة املتاحة للجميع، سدّت عالمات األكسسوارات Marvais و Ms Bayو Clio Goldbrennerالثغرة بني التصاميم الفاخرة والعاديّة وذلك بأسعار معقولة .وبالحديث عن الحقائب البلجيك ّية ،ال ب ّد من ذكر ،Kiplingالعالمة الجبّارة الفاخرة املختصة باألمتعة وحقائب الظهر وغريها من ّ الشنط .ذاع صيتها حول العامل وتشتهر بخفّة وزنها وبقامشها املل ّون املستخدم يف عدّة لوازم تأسست للسفر .وهي أيضاً من العالمات التي ّ يف Antwerpيف الثامنينات وأغنت هذه الحقبة الذهبيّة من التصميم يف املدينة. منذ الثامنيناتُ ،عرف مجال تصميم األزياء يف بلجيكا بكرس القواعد .من خالل نظرته املستقبليّة وابتكاراته الخالقة ،إن كان من خالل عالمات تجاريّة أو عرب خريجي Antwerp’s ،Royal Academy of Fine Artsمتيّز بتصاميم تتخطّى موضة املوسم بأشواط. يستوحي مص ّممو األزياء البلجيكيّون من ثقافة الشباب واملوسيقى والتكنولوجيا وغالباً ما خاصة بهم .نظرا ً البتكارات يخلقون أساليب ّ
استثنائيّة عىل سبيل نقوش Dries Van Notenومعطف Margielaاملقاوم للامء ومالبس Raf Simonsالرجاليّة العمليّة ،من الواضح أ ّن مص ّممي األزياء يف بلجيكا يصنعون املوضة بدالً من تت ّبعها.
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE: 47 عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل، تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من 300,000متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل. فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل كل سنة؟ ما عليك إال أن بلو ّ Global Blue تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق أينام تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اس’داد الخاص بغلوبل بلو Global Blue الرضيبة ّ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت. .2أطلب يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االس’داد من أحد مكاتب االس’داد الخاصة بنا. ّ لالتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره €50وادّخر حتّى 16%من
مثن مش’ياتك .يشمل مبلغ االس’داد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري .يف بعض املطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اس’داد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اس’داد فوري نقدي.
يف األعىل :حقيبة Kipling
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية
CUTTING-EDGE : 24 CREATIONS ابتكارات خالقة كان ملجموعة املص ّممني املبدعة Antwerp Sixأث ٌر كبري يف الثامنينات وما زال إرثها ح ّياً حتّى اآلن .تسلّط Rebecca Rhys-Evans الضوء عىل ر ّواد املوضة يف بلجيكا اليوم ،من Raf Simonsإىل عالمة الحقائب الشهرية Kipling
تسيطر ميالنو وباريس ولندن عىل املوضة األوروب ّية لدرج ٍة ننىس فيها عالقة بلجيكا العريقة بعامل األناقة .لكن الواقع أنّها صنعت عرب السنوات بعض أبرز أساطري املوضة. Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Artsهي من أرقى كليّات الفنون يف العامل (تأسست سنة .)1663صقل وأقدمها يف أوروبا ّ قسم األزياء فيها موهبة ستّة من أبرز املص ّممني يف بلجيكا وهم أعضاء مجموعة Antwerp .Sixوقد علّمتهم رئيسة القسم Linda Loppaبنفسها وهم Dries Van Noten : و Ann DemeulemeesterوDirk van SaeneوWalter Van Beirendonck و Dirk Bikkembergsو.Marina Yee تخ ّرجوا بني سنتي 1980و 1981وكان لهم تأثري كبري عىل عامل األزياء بعد أن عرضوا مجموعاتهم يف أسبوع لندن للموضة سنة .1988 تغريت بفضل رؤيتهم كمجموعة وأفرادّ ، شُ هرة بلجيكا باألزياء واالبتكار .رفعت وغريت قواعد اللّعبة مجموعاتهم املعايري ّ فبدّلت األذواق وقدّمت أسلوباً جديدا ً مل يسبق كل واحد منهم يطلق عالمته له مثيل .وراح ّ وربا أشهرهم Dries Van التي تحمل إسمه ّ Notenو Ann Demeulemeesterكام ص ّمم Walter Van Beirendockalsoأزياء لبعض الفرق وأشهرها .U2 يعمل أعضاء Antwerp Sixاليوم يف globalblue.com
بقا ِع مختلفة حول العامل وقد تركوا بصمتهم يف املجال االبتكاري يف بلجيكا وم ّهدوا الطريق لغريهم من املص ّممني والعالمات التجاريّة. نتيج ًة لذلك أرتاد كليّة Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Artsف ّنانون ومبدعون من داخل بلجيكا وخارجها .من أبرز خ ّريجيها Martin MargielaوDemna Gvasalia و .Haider Ackermannكام تلقّى املص ّمم العصامي Raf Simonsالتشجيع الكبري من .Linda Loppa تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن Martin Margiela تلقّى دروسه يف الكليّة قبل مجموعة Antwerp Sixوغالباً ما يُعترب العضو الفخري السابع فيها .لدى تخ ّرجه ،عمل لحسابه الخاص لبضع سنوات ،با فيها فرتة لدى Jean Paul ،Gaultierقبل أن يطلق عالمته التي تحمل إسمه سنة .1988حرص Margielaعىل أن يظل بعيدا ً عن األضواء ،فلم ِ يعط أي حديث أو ّ صورة لوسائل اإلعالم وبَ ِق َي متخفّياً بالرغم من نجاحاته الكربى .وشغل رجل األزياء الغامض هذا ،منصب مدير االبتكار لدى دار Hermès بني عامي 1997و .2003واليوم ،تُعرف العالمة باسم ،Maison Margielaيرتأّسها John n Gallianoالذي ُع ّني مديرا ً ابتكاريّاً سنة .2014 أ ّما ،Raf Simonsفبدأ مسريته كمص ّمم أثاث ،لكن بتشجيع من ،Linda Loppaبات مص ّمم مالبس رجال ّية بجهد شخيص .إنّه املدير املختصة باملالبس االبتكاري لعالمة Jil Sander ّ النسائيّة البسيطة وقد شغل املنصب نفسه لدى Chritian Diorوّ .Calvin Kleinأسس واملختصة باملالبس عالمته التي تحمل إسمه ّ الرجاليّة سنة 1995ويف العام ،2005ت ّم إطالق Raf by Raf Simonsكخ ّط ثانوي أقل. يتمتّع باألسلوب نفسه لكن بأسعار ّ تعاون املص ّمم مع أسامء عدّة ،وصل بفضلها مؤخرا ً إىل واجهة أزياء الشارع الع’يّة؛ من أبرزها AdidasوFred Perryو Eastpakو Asicsباإلضافة إىل املختصة باألغراض املنزل ّية العالمة الدمنارك ّية ّ .Kvadratيُعرف Raf Simonsبقدرته عىل التغيري؛ انتقل من األزياء الراقية لدى Dior إىل مالبس الشارع مع ،Adidasيقدّم تصاميم أزياء أوروبيّة ع’يّة ملهمة وقد كان له تأثري
MENTION
‘HOTEL PARFUMA’ AND RECEIVE
A SPECIAL SOUVENIR PARFUMA.COM
With international brands such as Tom Ford and Jo Malone London we offer you an exclusive range of beauty products, unique in Antwerp. Visit Parfuma at Eiermarkt 31, next to the Groenplaats in the city center. ACQUA DI PARMA | BY KILLIAN | ARMANI BEAUTY | ARMANI PRIVÉ | BOBBI BROWN | BYREDO | ENVIRON | FREDERIC MALLE | JANE IREDALE | JO MALONE LONDON | JULIETTE HAS A GUN | LA MER | NARS | MONTALE | MOLTON BROWN | ORIGINS | SERGE LUTENS | TOM FORD BEAUTY | COMFORT ZONE
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COLLECTIVE THINKING Inspired by the surrealists, this season Belgian jewellery brand Wouters & Hendrix decided to rip up every design convention in the book and start again. The brand is using a technique called cadavre exquis (or exquisite corpse) which was coined by surrealist authors; one writer would write a word, pass it along to another writer and then another, ending up with an unexpected tale. Echoing this, the Wouters & Hendrix jewellers designed pieces collectively, each taking responsibility for a Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
different element. The result for the spring/summer 2019 collection is pieces of jewellery that defy convention and are bound to make a statement wherever they are worn. The pictured earrings feature freshwater pearls and semi-precious stones set in gold, making them a perfectly modern addition to any ensemble. lt Wouters & Hendrix earrings, â‚Ź475, Wouters & Hendrix, Steenhouwersvest 52, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 6242, wouters-hendrix.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
ASHLEY GRAHAM #ROCKYOURCONFIDENCE @ MARINARINALDI.COM
ANTWERPEN HUIDEVETTERSSTRAAT 31 BRUXELLES/BRUSSEL AV. LOUISE / LOUIZALAAN 17 GAL. INNO RUE NEUVE / NIEUWSTR. 111-123 GENT VOGELMARKT 10 KNOKKE KUSTLAAN 123 LIEGE 11 RUE DES DOMINICAINS LUXEMBOURG 25 RUE PHILIPPE II
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