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BIRGER JARLSGATAN 5 路 STOCKHOLM NATHALIESCHUTERMAN.COM


FA L L INTO FASHION AT N AT H A L I E SCHUTERMAN

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and much much more.

KLARABERGSGATAN 10 MON-FRI 10-21 SAT 10-19 SUN 11-19 WWW.AHLENS.SE


F USION COL L EC T ION Be creative. Bring a unique expression of jewellery to life.

B I R G E R J A R L S G A T A N 13

S T O C K H O L M — N K D E PA R T M E N T S T O R E H A M N G ATA N 18 -20 — S T O C K H O L M W W W.G E O R G J E N S E N . C O M

+ 45 70 12 3 4 2 0


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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬

德国指南

Welcome to Stockholm Even if you’ve visited Stockholm before, you may be surprised to discover Södermalm island, with its bohemian stores and international restaurants – fnd out more in our feature on page 70. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the Swedish label Whyred (page 62) and explore Stockholm’s most exciting restaurants (page 84). SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app! With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Stockholm has to ofer.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Nuremburg Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: PING ZHU

Руководство Германия


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Alice Stevenson Illustrator, artist and print maker Alice Stevenson created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Stockholm. Her striking use of colour and playful natureinspired pattern work made her the perfect choice for this cover, which shows the vibrant islands that make up Stockholm’s archipelago, in reference to our feature on page 54. Alice has previously created artwork for Marc by Marc Jacobs, Crabtree & Evelyn and Random House among others. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: Brad Clarke PHOTOgraPHy

IllUSTraTION: alICe STeveNSON/ageNCyrUSH.COm

Contributors

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant who studied at Central Saint Martins in London. For this edition of SHOP Stockholm she looks at the attractions on ofer in and around the city’s many islands. globalblue.com

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, Stephen is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online.


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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Alice Stevenson Contributor Beth Druce Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E SW EDEN Managing director Robert Ehinger Sales manager: accounts and marketing services Daniel Andersson Key account managers Maria Ekstam, Martina Johnson, Katarina Thelin, Carolina Wadsby Account managers Ida Acha, Yasemin Bilir, Jonas Kei Global Blue Sverige AB, Västmannagatan 8, 111 24 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5452 8440 Regional tourist office Stockholm Tourist Centre, Vasagatan 14, Box 16282, 103 25 Stockholm

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue


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Contents

PHOTO: © FOTOgraFiSka

p.70

P rod u c t s 24 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from stockholm this season 26 My Favourites stylein’s founder and designer Elin Alemdar reveals her top products and places for autumn/winter 2014/15 28 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 34 Street Style our pick of the city’s best dressed during stockholm Fashion Week

62 Cool Collections Whyred has been dressing stylish swedes for 15 years and is now enjoying international success. sally McIlhone meets the label’s founder, roland Hjort 70 The Soul Of Stockholm there is plenty to explore in the city’s creative heart, as stephen doig discovers on a tour of södermalm 76 In Focus: Svenskt Tenn over 60 years ago, swedish company svenskt tenn ushered scandinavian design into a new era, and its prints are still as much admired today. By charlie Neidpath

N EWs 36 Shop Window one store not to be missed in stockholm 38 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 50 In Store … … with ulrika and christopher Bjercke at Hunkydory’s shop-in-shop at NK

E x PE r I E NcE 84 Table Talk stockholm’s leading restaurants ofer menus that make the most of sweden’s high-quality produce while embracing international infuences. sHoP explores some of the city’s fnest 88 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

F E At u r E s 54 Cover Story: Water Ways stockholm is defned by the sea and lakes that surround it, making this city a fascinating destination, says Beth druce Above: contemporary photography centre Fotografska, Södermalm


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Contents

Gu i de 93 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Stockholm, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights 112 My City Alex Wallman from Nudie Jeans shares his Stockholm recommendations

t R A N S l At i ON S 119 Русский Перевод 124 美文翻译 SOu v e N i R 130 the essential item to bring home

eSSeNti A lS 114 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

E n gl i s h | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Online

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: Melanie Galea/THesTreeTMuse.iT

FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

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Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker

Conquest Classic


24 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

CLEAR CUT Founded in Sweden and now based in Milan, designer Caroline Kummelstedt’s eponymous fashion label ofers some of the best outerwear we’ve seen this season. Items are made in Portugal, where the fnest materials are crafted by experts into Kummelstedt’s accomplished and thoughtful designs. The label’s aesthetic is timeless and feminine, using high-quality fabrics and classic cuts which are injected with contemporary design fair. Slightly oversized Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

yet designed to create an hourglass silhouette, this jacket’s subtle cream colour allows the unusual shape to take centre stage while keeping the piece minimal and wearable. Its rounded neckline gives a glimpse of the outft underneath and looks great worn over a crisp collar or a warming knitted roll-neck. hl Caroline Kummelstedt coat, SEK 7,000, Stockholm Market, Riddargatan 3, 114 35 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 0050, carolinekummelstedt.com * for map go to page 102


26 | P RO D U C T S

My Favourites: elin alemdar Swedish-born Elin Alemdar founded womenswear label Stylein in 2001 while living in New York. After returning to her native country, she developed the Stylein brand in Stockholm. Stylein’s clothes, which combine a soft, feminine image with an edgy, rock-inspired look, are stocked in 19 countries worldwide. Here, Elin talks to Sally McIlhone about her favourite places and products in Stockholm

1. ‘I’m totally in love with our beautiful sand-coloured winter jacket. It has a perfect ft and I’m hoping this will be a new classic from Stylein’

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Stylein jacket, SEK 3,999, Stylein, Hökensgata 5, 116 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 643 3314, stylein.com

2. ‘My favourite store is probably Mrs H, which carries luxury brands from all over the world’ Mrs H, Birger Jarlsgatan 9, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 678 0200, shopmrsh.com

3. ‘Shoes are so important as they can make or break a look. I’m a big fan of Saint Laurent shoes – you can really tell that they know what they’re doing’ Saint Laurent boots, price on request, Nathalie Schuterman, Birger Jarlsgatan 1, 114 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 6201, ysl.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114


S H O P | 27

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PHOTOS: (PrOfile) by Mini; (3) yulia lindberg; (4) franÇOiS laCOur

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4. ‘Corinne and Friends is the best hair salon in the world. I go there for the salon’s Quick Fix and to stock up on my favourite hair product, which is by Shu Uemura’ Shu Uemura Essence Absolue, 150ml, SEK 370, Corinne and Friends, Sturegallerian 60, 114 35 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 309029, shuuemura-usa.com

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5. ‘One of my all-time favourite beauty products is from Skin Regimen’ Skin Regimen Hydra-Pro Booster, SEK 495, F&M, Nybrogatan 7, 114 34 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 700 0058, skinregimenguide.com

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CAffè lATTE Soft, muted shades add a feminine edge to masculine tailoring

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1. Acne trousers, SEK 3,000, Acne, Norrmalmstorg 2, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 6411, acnestudios.com

3. Maria Nilsdotter Lynx bracelet, SEK 5,500, Maria Nilsdotter, Sturegatan 6, 114 35 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 9300, marianilsdotter.com

2. Burberry Bloomsbury handbag, SEK 28,000, Burberry NK, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 8208, burberry.com

4. Marc Cain hat, SEK 629, Boutique Mimic, Karlavägen 69, 114 49 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 636311, marc-cain.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

5. Carin Wester Bertilde coat, SEK 4,500, Åhlens City, Klarabergsgatan 50, 111 21 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 676 6000, carinwester.com


S H O P | 29

DAYTIME DEMURE

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Dress up your favourite jeans with a statement coat and luxury accessories

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PHOTO: (3) LOuiS VuiTTOn

1. Max Mara coat, SEK 8,790, Max Mara, Birger Jarlsgatan 12, 114 34 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1466, maxmara.com 2. Hermès Faubourg watch, SEK 58,400, Hermès, Regeringsgatan 55, 111 77 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8249, hermes.com

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3. Louis Vuitton handbag, SEK 333,403, Louis Vuitton, Birger Jarlsgatan 5A, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 9200, louisvuitton.com

4. Diesel jeans, SEK 1,799, Diesel, Biblioteksgatan 9, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 644 5588, diesel.com


30 | P RO D U C T S

MODERN MIX Reinvent a classic female silhouette with bold prints and androgynous accessories

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1. Minimarket shirt, SEK 1,600, Grandpa, Södermannagatan 21, 116 40 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 643 6080, minimarket.se

3. Cos skirt, SEK 990, Cos, Biblioteksgatan 3, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5450 1050, cosstores.com

2. Efva Attling cuf and stars ring, SEK 28,000, Efva Attling, Biblioteksgatan 14, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 9080, efvaattling.com

4. Byredo Oud Immortel perfume, 100ml, SEK 1,503.55, Byredo, Mäster Samuelsgatan 6, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5250 2610, byredo.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

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5. Rizzo boots, SEK 2,195, Rizzo, Biblioteksgatan 9, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 0132, rizzo.se

PHOTO: (4) © BOHman & SjöSTrand aB

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LEGENDARY LUXURY. Cartier is a perfect reason to visit NK Juvelsalong, one of the most exclusive watch and jewellery departments in Europe. From among an exquisite selection of international and Swedish brands, we present the Cartier watch collection. Welcome to NK Juvelsalong.

MONDAY – FRIDAY 10AM – 8PM. SATURDAY 10AM – 6PM. SUNDAY 11AM – 5PM. HAMNGATAN. +46 8 – 762 80 00. NK.SE.


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UNDERSTATED GENTLEMAN

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Sharp neutrals and subtle detailing make for a dashing look

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1. Triwa Duke Niben watch, SEK 1,495, Triwa, Grev Turegatan 13, 114 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 70140 8957, triwa.com 2. Canali leather belt, SEK 1,799, NK Man, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8000, canali.it

3. Boss boots, SEK 4,799, Boss, Klarabergsgatan 50, 111 21 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 676 6000, hugoboss.com 4. Hope Don scarf, SEK 795, Hope, Gรถtgatan 34, 118 26 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 4106 4123, hope-sthlm.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

5. Filippa K wool coat, SEK 3,900, Filippa K, Gรถtgatan 36, 118 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 615 7000, flippa-k.com


WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

CHRONOMAT AIRBORNE

Drottninggatan 39, 111 51 Stockholm Tel: 08-100718, info@franksur.com www.franksur.com


34 | P RO D U C T S

Oversized garments, such as an Acne jacket worn by stylist Pernille Trisbaek and Columbine Smille’s furry By Malene Birger coat, made a statement at Stockholm Fashion Week this season. With dishevelled hair and the glistening metallic touches of their Chanel and Zara chain bags, these women embody efortless cool

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

PHOTOS: Sandra Semburg

Street Style


S H O P | 35

globalblue.com


36 | N E W S

PHOTO: CHRISTOFER DRACKE

Shop Window

SHOP AROUND THE CLOCK One of Stockholm’s most famous and prestigious hotels, the Grand Hotel is constantly looking for new ways to give visitors great service. A recent development is Grand Afections, an elegant boutique located in the main lobby which stocks clothing and accessories from high-end Swedish and international designers. The store also carries Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

spa products, including a luxurious body lotion containing 18-carat gold leaf alongside the hotel’s own range of gourmet delicacies, which make elegant gifts and souvenirs. As well as providing a glamorous aesthetic, the store is open 16 hours a day, seven days a week, every day of the year, so you can shop whenever you like. hl Grand Afections, Grand Hotel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, 103 27 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 679 3500, grandhotel.se


Birger Jarlsgatan 12, 114 34 Stockholm. Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-17, Sunday closed. Maxital AB – franchisee Max Mara

MAxMArA.coM


38 | N E W S

DESIGN CLASSIC Stockholm-based interior design stalwart Malmsten has been a part of the city since founder Carl Malmsten opened his frst store in the Norrmalmstorg area in 1930. A decade later he moved to new, larger premises on Strandvägen, where the brand has been based ever since. Widely regarded as one of the best interior design stores in the world, Malmsten, which is now run by the founder’s grandson, continues to display furniture designed by its founder alongside pieces of Swedish handicraft and items from students on the Carl Malmsten Furniture Studies course. A visit to the store should be at the top of any design lover’s to-do list. rp Malmsten, Strandvägen 5B, 114 51 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 233380, malmsten.se

CAFÉ CULTURE AT HOME Take home a piece of cofee-making mastery with Nespresso’s newest model, the Inissia. The most colourful, lightweight and streamlined machine in Nespresso’s range, the Inissia is compact enough to sit proudly in any size of kitchen, but this doesn’t compromise its quality; the machine creates beautifully creamy cafè lattes, cappuccinos and espressos at the touch of a button, and takes only 25 seconds to reach peak temperature. Available in a range of eye-catching colours, from ruby red to vanilla cream and limited-edition sky blue, the Inissia is a stylish addition to any kitchen. rp Nespresso, Ungsgatan 6, 111 43 Stockholm, +46 (0)20 045 6600, nespresso.com * for map go to page 99 Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114


S H O P | 39

In brief: — Swedish fashion label Lindex is celebrating 60 years in business. Pop into the fagship store at Sergelgatan 11-15 to see why the brand is so popular after six decades. — Åhléns City department store opened in Stockholm 50 years ago and became a symbol of modern Sweden. To commemorate the occasion, a special collection of Swedish products from 1964 has been recommissioned. Don’t miss out.

SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use allowing you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the GB card and, once logged in, the My Tax refund wallet becomes available allowing you to track pending refunds.

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The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

PERFECT MATCH Filippa K teams up with renowned German jeweller Saskia Diez this season to create a capsule collection of fne jewellery in gold and silver. The two labels share a love of simplistic elegance and understated luxury, resulting in an harmonious collaboration. The collection comprises eight pieces, available in silver or 18-carat gold, and includes rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Available at selected stores across the world, including the beautifully designed Stockholm fagship, this necklace is a particular highlight. Minimal and structural yet still feminine, it shows Diez’s style fusing perfectly with Filippa K’s. hl Filippa K, Grev Turegatan 18, 114 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5458 8888, flippa-k.com * for map go to page 102


40 | N E W S

LOCAL TIME

PHOTO: © gOrunway.cOm

Swedish watchmaker Triwa has opened a fagship store on Grev Turegatan in central Stockholm. The brand creates contemporary timepieces and the current collection refects the colours which are typically found in Stockholm at this time of year: warm autumnal hues of copper, green and gold contrast with monochrome tones, representing winter. Triwa has introduced two new styles for autumn/winter 2014/15: Hvalen, a diving watch named after one of Sweden’s frst submarines, features luminous hour indicators and a sunray dial, while Skala has organic leather straps from local tannery Tärnsjö. gl Triwa, Grev Turegatan 13, 114 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)70 140 8957, triwa.com * for map go to page 102

GIRL POWER There is a new team at Marc by Marc Jacobs this season and the result is a youthful, colourful and fun collection, flled with attitude. Two accomplished British designers, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier, have drawn heavily on the 1990s for inspiration and girl power is evident. Models stomped down the catwalk in thick-soled trainers and wide leather belts, while slogans adorn everything from tube skirts to shift dresses, and tongues on trainers feature the label’s new moniker MBMJ. With a debut this strong, there’s clearly an exciting future for Bartley and Hillier. hl Marc by Marc Jacobs, Smålandsgatan 10, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 679 5860, marcjacobs.com * for map go to page 103 Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114


LE

PLIAGE

HERITAGE

B I B L I O T E K S G ATA N 1 - S TO C K H O L M - 4 6 8 6 11 0 2 1 3


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TURNING THE TIDE This season Acne is braving the cold and embracing the outdoors with a collection based around the concept of a winter beach. The collection’s minimal aesthetics, with strong sports and tailoring infuences, see shiny satin and neoprene fabrics take centre stage, creating a distinctly hi-tech look, with fannel and brushed double wool adding a softer, more luxurious touch. Classic outwear has been reworked with futuristic prints and new silhouettes featuring rounded and emphasised details, ensuring you’ll look stylish and will keep warm. rp Acne, Norrmalmstorg 2, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 6411, acnestudios.com * for map go to page 103

BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL Only a designer as skilled as Frida Giannini could make a mustard yellow satchel this enticing. The shoulder bag is part of a new collection of beautiful yet practical handbags which are perfect for travellers. Embracing Gucci’s heritage of fne Florentine craftsmanship, the bag features the distinctive piston closure from the original Jackie bag, which was named for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Made from grained leather, the satchel is soft and light, with a modern shape - this youthful piece is perfect for brightening an outft in the colder months. hl Gucci, Birger Jarlsgatan 1, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5450 0544, gucci.com * for map go to page 103 Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114


44 | N E W S

BACK TO THE FUTURE

PHOTO: © gOrunway.cOm

The autumn/winter collection from British fashion designer Stella McCartney takes iconic styles from fashion history and interprets them in a totally modern way. In keeping with the designer’s aesthetics, the range is sporty, with exaggerated cocoon shapes and loosely draped fabrics creating a self-assured and laid-back silhouette. Key pieces include a baroque-esque rufed coat with gilded edges created from golden zips, a fufy sweater embroidered with squiggly rope patterns, and slinky 1920s-style eveningwear with huge looped tassels and daring hemlines. Top of our wish list are the square-toed platform brogues, available in bright or neutral tones, which will go perfectly with any ensemble. gl Stella McCartney, Mäster Samuelsgatan 3, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 0900, stellamccartney.com * for map go to page 103

BAGS OF STYLE This year, Mulberry celebrates the 30th anniversary of the opening of its store on Birger Jarlsgatan, making it the oldest Mulberry franchise in the world. The British brand is famous for its handbags, which are made in its factory in England. To mark the occasion, Mulberry has created just 30 two-tone versions of its classic Lily bag. The store also stocks handbag-come-backpacks designed in collaboration with the supermodel Cara Delevingne. hl Mulberry, Birger Jarlsgatan 10, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 4688, mulberry.com * for map go to page 103 Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114


F I L I PPA - K . C O M

Stockholm: Biblioteksgatan 2, Grev Turegatan 18, Humlegårdsgatan 22, Götgatan 23, Götgatan 36, NK, Åhléns City


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BEST OF BRITISH One of the most iconic pieces of British fashion design, the Burberry trench coat is a wardrobe staple for well-dressed men and women across the globe. Over 100 years ago, Burberry trench coats were used by British army ofcers, with the coat’s unique Gabardine material protecting them from the wind and rain. The same material is still used in today’s trench coats, which are produced in England. It takes three weeks and over 100 highly skilled processes to make each coat, demonstrating that the utmost care is put into creating these historic items of clothing. rp Burberry, Biblioteksgatan 6, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 8208, burberry.com * for map go to page 102

NATURAL TREASURE Specialist jewellers House of Amber has opened a fagship boutique in Stockholm. Founded in Denmark in 1933, it is one of the world’s oldest producers of amber jewellery. The company crafts pieces from the highest quality amber – the fossilised resin of ancient trees, formed over millions of years – set in silver and gold. In addition to prized golden amber, which is native to Nordic countries, it also sources rare green amber from the tropics. The beauty of natural amber lies in its unique qualities, guaranteeing a truly personal purchase. gl House of Amber, Birger Jarlsgatan 22, 114 34 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 663 8869, houseofamber.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114


B i b l i o t e k s g a t a n 7, 111 4 6 S t o c k h o l m | N K H a m n g a t a n 18 -2 0 , 111 4 7 S t o c k h o l m

A U T U M N | W I N T E R 14 K A R E N M I L L E N .C O M

WATC H ‘ T H E J O U R N E Y ’ AT K A R E N M I L L E N .CO M # K MT H EJ O U R N E Y


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RETRO REBORN

WiNTER WEAR

SiSTER ACT

The italian label behind some of the best coats to ever grace a catwalk, Max Mara once again meets expectations this season. All styles, from trench coats to Pufa jackets, feature touches of masculine tailoring, and the materials, such as herringbone tweed and Prince of Wales tartan, are the stars of the show. The boxy, oversized waistcoat can be balanced by a sleek leather pencil skirt, while grey-on-grey layering enhances the diferent weaves and knits in this season’s collection. hl Max Mara, Birger Jarlsgatan 12, 114 34 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1466, maxmara.com * for map go to page 103

Founded by three sisters and named after their grandmother, House of Dagmar is a Swedish label ofering womenswear with an elegant and modern aesthetic. The sisters have backgrounds in fashion design and their style is on trend and glamorous, mixing a Scandinavian feel with art deco infuences. Experience these unconventional yet sophisticated garments at House of Dagmar’s in-store boutique at NK. hl NK House of Dagmar, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8000, houseofdagmar.se * for map go to page 103

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PHOTO: (rigHT) ingemar LindewaLL

Growing up in Sweden, Emmy Blixt was surrounded by glamorous women who wore colourful high-heeled clogs. When she discovered a disused clog factory near her hometown, she immediately bought the whole stock. The shoes were so popular that she began making new pairs and, along with a childhood friend, founded Swedish Hasbeens. Believing that modern, mass-produced shoes lack charm and quality, the pair’s heeled clogs are handmade in small factories using environmentally friendly materials. Celebrities and fashion insiders have embraced these distinctive shoes; visit the newly opened fagship store to see them for yourself. hl Swedish Hasbeens, Nytorgsgatan 36A, 116 40 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 702 0101, swedishhasbeens.com * for map go to page 111


House of Amber • 22 Birger Jarlsgatan • Stockholm • Sweden Open Monday-Sunday • www.houseofamber.com QUALITY GUARANTEED BY COPENHAGEN AMBER MUSEUM


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In Store: Hunkydory Ulrika and Christopher Bjercke met while studying at the prestigious ESMOD fashion school in Paris. The married couple set up their own label, Hunkydory, in 1996. Originally specialising in knitwear, the line expanded to ofer a full range of clothes for contemporary young women, gaining attention at home and internationally. Hunkydory now has a shop-in-shop at Stockholm’s NK department store, where Ximena Daneri met the designers

‘This store has been open since October 2012. When we got the opportunity there was no hesitation because NK is so well established in Stockholm. ‘The opening night was amazing. There were 300 people in the 135-square-metre store; it’s something we’ll never forget. ‘When creating the space, we focused on authentic materials with character. The décor is dominated by Corten steel, which has a unique rust-coloured surface. To complement this we Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

have worked with canvas, raw leather and black painted oak. The furniture and decorations were designed in collaboration with cabinetmaker Atilla Suta who makes items by hand using traditional methods. ‘What do we sell here? We sell the Hunkydory lifestyle!’ Hunkydory, Floor 1, NK, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8000, hunkydory.com * for map go to page 103


PHOTO: © NixON JOHaNSeN CáCereS

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Above (from lef): Hunkydory store; Ulrika and Christopher Bjercke


THE BEST OF SHOE BRANDS At Nilson Shoes we present the must haves from the best shoe brands. Being the best is not just about looking good. After 25 years in the shoe business we only select shoes and brands that meet our demands for quality. The right shoes complete your outfit and they also have to be durable and comfortable. Visit your nearest store and we will help you find shoes to match your style and fit your feet. Or shop online at nilsonshoes.com

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Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil


ways

PHOTO: Yanan Li/mEdiabank.visiTsTOckHOLm.cOm

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

Stockholm is defned by the sea and lakes that surround it, making this city a fascinating destination, says Beth Druce

Built on 14 islands, the Swedish capital is unique and diverse. In Stockholm, festivals are held to celebrate the passing of the seasons, so in tune are the residents with nature, while the water that fows around the city sets a pace and tone that is unique to the area. A traditional Swedish song, Stockholm in My Heart, celebrates the way in which salty sea air and sweet lake water mingle and the efect this has on the atmosphere of the city, which is immediately evident to visitors. Here, fast-paced, urban life sits harmoniously side by side with the surrounding environment; waterways and luscious forests can be found beside the most cutting-edge design stores and vibrant nightlife. This is a city where fshermen take up position on the bridge outside the parliament. Gamla Stan (the Old Town), situated on its own island, is the city’s original centre and dates back to the 13th century. One of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, it is characterised by ancient bridges and historic buildings including the cathedral, the Nobel Museum and the Sveriges Kungahus (the royal palace) which is the king’s ofcial residence. These impressive structures rise above the area’s narrow, winding alleys and quaint cobbled streets, with their own buildings 119 /

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in richest sepia, ochre and nutmeg shades. In the winter, expect to fnd these charming streets dusted with snow and lit by streams of glowing lights: the visitor feels as if they have stepped straight into a fairytale. Along with its traditional splendour, Gamla Stan has plenty of modern-day attractions, including excellent bars and restaurants. The Grillska Huset on Stortorget, is a café, delicatessen and bakery located in a beautiful old house. Run by the city’s

PHOTO: NicHO SödliNG/mEdiabaNk.viSiTSTOckHOlm.cOm

Östermalm is home to a number of designer fashion boutiques

Previous: Stockholm at night

Above (from top): Grillska Huset; Gamla Stan, one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe


Stadsmission – a charitable organisation – in a typically progressive Swedish way, the enterprise supports homeless people in the city. With its tree-lined boulevards and calm, elegant feel, Östermalm is located on the mainland, and is surrounded by waterways. It has gained an international reputation as one of the world’s most prestigious shopping districts. Historically, cattle was reared here and in the 19th century it was developed to accommodate museums, educational institutions and embassies, which laid the foundations for the highly sought-after residences now found throughout its streets. Östermalm is home to a number of designer fashion boutiques, including Nathalie Schuterman which stocks labels such as Alexander Wang, Balenciaga and Phillip Lim. The Swedish designer Anna Holtblad also has a store here, while the luxury department store NK combines Swedish and international labels with a food market, eateries and bars. There’s also a buzzing restaurant scene on Östermalm; the casual bistro Speceriet and the Michelin-starred Gastrologik are Above (clockwise from lef): cyclists crossing one of Stockholm’s bridges; view from Djurgården; Speceriet bistro, Östermalm; NK department store, Östermalm

PHOTO: JePPe WiKSTrOm/meDiabaNK.viSiTSTOcKHOlm.cOm

PHOTO: HeNriK Trygg/meDiabaNK.viSiTSTOcKHOlm.cOm

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PHOTO: eriK OlSSON PHOTOgraPHy

PHOTO: JePPe WiKSTrOm/meDiabaNK.viSiTSTOcKHOlm.cOm

Stockholm is a playground for the adventurous traveller, with something different to discover over every bridge

fashionable and popular venues. If you’re looking for fresh air and breathtaking views, head to Djurgården, the royal game park. This island in central Stockholm, as well as being a beautiful place to simply stroll through, contains some of the city’s most famous attractions, including Skansen, an outdoor museum and zoo. The exhibitions include a showcase of Swedish architecture and an interactive exploration of Swedish life though the centuries. When it’s time to eat, try Oaxen Slip, which is known for its simple dishes prepared with carefully sourced food. Stockholm is a playground for the adventurous traveller, with something diferent to discover over every bridge, fused together by the shared waterways visitstockholm.com, stadsmissionen.se, nathalieschuterman.com, annaholtblad.com, speceriet.se, gastrologik.se, skansen.se, oaxen.com


YO U R S T Y L E D E S T I N AT I O N F I L I P P A K E S P R I T I L S E J A C O B S E N LY L E & S C O T T T W I S T & TA N G O G - S TA R R AW S A I L R A C I N G W H Y R E D L E E E M I L I O J O F A M A Z O U L 3 6 5 S A V V Y C I T I Z E N S T O C K H L M B J Ö R N B O R G B O N D E L I D E LV I N E B L Ä C K S A D D L E R D O B B E R T O P E C O AT L A S D E S I G N

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Whyred has been dressing stylish Swedes for 15 years and is now enjoying international success. Sally McIlhone meets the label’s founder, Roland Hjort With a raft of Swedish brands now dominating the international fashion scene, it’s safe to say that Stockholm rivals London, Paris and Milan as a centre for cutting-edge clothing design. Following in the footsteps of fellow Swedish labels H&M and Acne, Stockholmbased Whyred is already a name to know in its native country and is rapidly gaining an international following. Whyred’s founder and designer Roland Hjort established the label in 1999, starting with outerwear for men. When creating the brand Hjort played to his strength – designing jackets – and used these as Whyred’s base. ‘I’ve always been a fan of jackets and always been good at doing them,’ he says. Hjort spotted a gap in the outerwear market and

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combined his admiration of mod clothing (which started in the UK in the 1960s) with his fondness for the aesthetics of uniforms, to create garments which were new to Sweden. These pieces, such as a parka-type jacket, were instant successes and ensured that Whyred was noticed. After this initial ingenuity, rather than stray from the tailored look that helped him build the brand, Hjort developed a range of hero pieces that crop up time and again in his collections. ‘I’m a fan of classics, and classic garments have been in my head since I started. These are my icons. I always have them in my mind, even if they’re not exactly the same.’ Hjort’s ‘icons’ are often coats developed for the men’s collection that later fnd their way into the women’s line, which was introduced in 2000. These items give another nod to mod culture and to the androgynous trend that’s

Whyred has clearly found a formula that works, and Hjort is prepared to build on it

increasingly popular on the catwalks and on the streets of the most fashionable cities worldwide. According to Hjort, he sees the typical Whyred woman in trousers, a peacoat and loafers. ‘That kind of look is perfect. I really like to see the same aesthetic, the tailored look, on the men’s side as on the women’s side.’ He goes on to explain that some pieces that formed the menswear collection in 1999 Previous: the Highboy parka is a Whyred classic, autumn/winter 2014/15

Above (from top): Whyred designer and founder Roland Hjort; Whyred’s Star jacket autumn/winter 2014/15


Welcome to the Centre of Modern Design Enter the department store Illums Bolighus and enjoy an exclusive world of quality and worldfamous international and Danish design. In our universe of inspiring displays you will fnd only the very fnest in exquisite design, kitchenware, tableware, lamps, carpets, textiles, furniture and fashion.

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can now be found in the womenswear line. Whyred has clearly found a formula that works, and Hjort is prepared to build on it. ‘This is what I see for Whyred in the future. The parka and the peacoat will be classics because they have been working for so long.’ Hjort credits these classic pieces, and his reluctance to relegate them to the back of the wardrobe, as one of the reasons the brand is celebrating its 15th anniversary. ‘There’s a jacket that we Above: Whyred autumn/winter 2014/15

started selling in 1999 that is still a bestseller today. That’s something I don’t think any of our competitors have.’ Hjort’s advice to other budding Swedish labels is simple. ‘Find something that you are very good at, and push for that.’ The designer balances his passion for British aesthetics – Burberry is a label he admires – with a fondness for Scandinavian simplicity. ‘Swedish minimalism and the clean

PHOTOs: © KrisTian LövebOrg/MbFW sTOcKHOLM

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look are very strong at Whyred, but you need something to contrast it with,’ Hjort explains. ‘I found a very nice phrase today that I think defnes Whyred: destroy minimalism. It’s the contrast of the suit and the parka – you destroy the nice, clean thing with something of the opposite. That’s very much the DNA of Whyred. I’ve been brought up to be minimalist in a Scandinavian way but it’s nice to destroy it with something else.’

PHOTO: FredriK sKOgKvisT

Visitors to the brand’s Stockholm store can find a capsule collection to mark the label’s 15th anniversary

In addition to timeless garments, from October visitors to the brand’s Stockholm store can fnd a capsule collection to mark the label’s 15th anniversary. ‘We will play around with the X and the V, the Roman numerals for 15. We will make a vinyl record to sell in the shop and we are also planning to do a record player,’ Hjort reveals. Souvenirs from Sweden don’t get much more chic than this whyred.se

Above (clockwise from lef): Whyred ingrid jacket; the label’s bessie jacket has androgynous style inspired by menswear, both autumn/ winter 2014/15; Whyred store, stockholm


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The soul of There is plenty to explore in the city’s creative heart,

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Above: Peter Andersson cabinet at Tio Gruppen


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Stockholm as Stephen Doig discovers on a tour of Sรถdermalm


PHOTO: ArTek

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and vibrant creative community. Södermalm is said to have been the home of Scandinavia’s frst theatre, and it was also the birthplace of Greta Garbo; today, its artistic credentials are as evident as ever. One of the city’s most exciting venues, Fotografska, is based in Södermalm, hosting contemporary photography exhibitions. A short walk from here is the design collective Tio Gruppen which makes and sells pieces that combine heritage with a modern sensibility. This design collective was founded in 1970 by 10 textile creatives and has gone on to be a champion of print talent in Sweden. Still owned by three of the original founders, Tio Gruppen sells items from handbags to

PHOTO: © FOTOGrAFiskA

t’s ftting that the acclaimed Swedish author Stieg Larsson, the man behind books such as The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, chose to centre the majority of the action in his novels in Stockholm’s sprawling Södermalm district. While Östermalm is elegant and charming, and Gamla Stan is full of historic attractions, Södermalm has a strong urban appeal, attracting some of the country’s leading designers, style innovators and boutiques. Despite its proximity to Gamla Stan, visitors can feel the change in gear when venturing south into Södermalm, with its wide, leafy boulevards, handsome townhouses, contemporary architecture, views of the river

Above (clockwise from top lef): Artek sofas; Tio Gruppen collaboration with Uniqlo autumn/winter 2013/14; contemporary photography centre Fotografska


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tablecloths, alongside collaborations with Scandinavian furniture designers Peter Andersson and Sundlings, and with global names such as Uniqlo. While here, look out for original 1970s and 1980s vividly printed pieces. Nearby, Blås & Knåda can be found in a quiet back street. Like Tio Gruppen, this venture was founded in the 1970s as a design collective. It stocks ceramic and glass pieces, made entirely by hand, such as beautiful leafpattern plates by Malin Adner and purist bowls and crockery by Bissa G Segerson. The space

Spend some time browsing the distinctive clothing available in the area

is stafed by members of the collective, who can talk to you in detail about all the pieces available; there’s also a chance that you’ll be able to meet the artist who made the design you’re interested in. Take time to visit Åsögatan, Götgatan and Kocksgatan, with their cluster of interior design stores. Adesso is particularly enticing: here, Scandinavian design can be found alongside international names; expect to discover richly patterned furniture from Jonas Ihreborn and industrial-style furniture by RS Barcelona. In addition, an in-house team makes beautifully detailed, rainbow-hued rugs and textiles from recycled fabrics.

In the neighbouring warren of streets, Artek showcases the work of Finnish designer Harri Koskinen, along with an eclectic selection of pieces around the world, while at nearby Asplund items by international names such as Tom Dixon and Piero Lissoni are available. Design Torget has stores across Stockholm and Scandinavia, and employs an interesting process to decide which items will be stocked. Each week, a design committee meets to assess the products available and to make sure that they meet Design Torget’s exacting standards. People are invited to send their products to the committee, meaning that even fedgling designers can be given a launch pad. From

Above (clockwise from lef): Blås & Knåda stocks beautiful ceramics including Malin Adner’s leaf-paterned plates; Asplund; Design Torget hand-painted Japanese cups


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beautifully illustrated kitchenware by Bricka Odenplan to intricately painted pieces from Mugg Osaka, the choice is varied. And when you’ve found the ideal Scandinavian designs for your home, spend some time browsing the distinctive clothing available in the area, such as the pared-back, well-constructed pieces from Nitty Gritty. For those looking for unique items from independent stores and local makers, SÜdermalm is the ideal area to investigate fotografska.eu, tiogruppen.com, blasknada.com, adessostockholm.se, artek.f, asplund.org, nittygrittystore.com, designtorget.se


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In FocuS:

Svenskt Tenn

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Above (from lef): Svenskt Tenn Noturno, Buterfy and Celotocaulis cushions


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Over 60 years ago, Svenskt Tenn ushered Scandinavian design into a new era, and its prints are still as much admired today. By Charlie Neidpath

There are certain attractions around Europe which regularly feature on the to-do list of travellers who admire excellent design, such as Arne Jacobsen’s original hotel rooms in Copenhagen and Venetian glassware. In Stockholm, such visitors head to Svenskt Tenn, a design emporium which spans several handsome townhouses on Standvagen in the centre of the city. The company was set up in 1924 by Estrid Ericson as a pewter workshop (Svenskt Tenn translates as Swedish Pewter). She later saw some furniture that friends had bought


PHOTO: AnnA Ledin Wirén

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The success of Svenkst Tenn marked a significant shift in the stark Scandinavian aesthetic at that time in Vienna and loved the designs and prints. The designer was Josef Frank, a huge name of his era, and she set about locating him. Frank moved to Sweden in the 1930s and started to work for Ericson. ‘They were a perfect match: Frank worked as the creative and the designer, and Ericson was the stylist and the set decorator,’ says Thommy Bindefeld, Svenkst Tenn’s marketing director. The pair went on to redefne Scandinavian interior design by adding vivid and intricate prints to the clean and uncluttered Scandinavian style that prevailed at the time. This caught the eye of Sweden’s elite and time has shown that this was more than just a trend towards pattern and colour – the success of Svenkst Tenn marked a signifcant shift in the stark Scandinavian aesthetic at that time. Above (clockwise from lef): Svenkst Tenn Vårklockor wallpaper; the company’s marketing director Thommy Bindefeld; tea cosy with Hawaii Brown patern


SHOPPING AND DINING IN THE HEART OF STOCKHOLM

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‘As a middle European who was already 50 by the time he reached Sweden, and who had an established career as a furniture-maker and artist, Josef Frank already had an established style. He was able to bring that to Sweden and to put his mark on Swedish design,’ says Bindefeld. Ericson and Frank created a new template for legions of designers who followed. This distinct identity is still evident today on the cushions, napkins, lampshades and fabrics sold by the company. From erupting fora and fauna, dancing vine leaves and birds of paradise to jewel-coloured tropical palm fronds, drifting fsh and multicoloured tree branches, Frank’s designs were full of vivid colour, depth and

richness. But these are much more than pretty adornments, says Bindefeld. ‘He designed prints in a very intricate way and you’ll notice that often the print is repeated and repeated, so that, if you follow a route in looking at it, it’s almost like you are getting mysteriously lost inside the print itself.’ ‘His philosophy was that, if a room has white walls and is very clean in design, a splash of print would give the eye something to rest on. A clean white expanse of space doesn’t give the eye something to focus on, but his lively prints do.’ When wandering through the beautiful ‘sets’ at Svenstk Tenn, the timelessness of Frank’s bold prints becomes particularly

Above (clockwise from top): Svenskt Tenn store, Stockholm; pewter elephant fgurine; Stool 647 with Teheran black-paterned fabric


LEGENDARY LUXURY. Bulgari is a perfect reason to visit NK Juvelsalong, one of the most exclusive watch and jewellery departments in Europe. We have an exquisite selection of international and Swedish brands; one fine example is Bulgari. Welcome to NK Juvelsalong.

MONDAY – FRIDAY 10AM – 8PM. SATURDAY 10AM – 6PM. SUNDAY 11AM – 5PM. HAMNGATAN. +46 8 – 762 80 00. NK.SE.


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‘It’s a one-of-a-kind place here. You can only buy from our store, or on our website’ Thommy Bindefeld clear: some which are more than 60 years old sit happily side by side with cutting-edge contemporary furniture. ‘These prints, in whatever format they come in, work in a modern environment, even though they date from the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s.’ On Ericson’s 50th birthday in 1944, Frank gave her 50 diferent prints – and it stands as a testament to his vision that the majority of these are still used today. The production methods favoured at Svenskt Tenn lend a deeper sense of colour and richness to the imagery within the prints. Each piece is screen printed in a process that combines handcraft with a mechanically operated screen, although Bindefeld stresses that a human hand is guiding the process at every step of the way.

‘Frank was unique in his methods because he developed the ability to have two colours printing on top of one another, making a third colour. It allows for much more tone and shade,’ Bindefeld explains. It’s heartening to note that today the retail business is owned by a trust, on Ericson’s request, which donates money to ecology projects and to medical research. It’s also good to know that unlike other aspects of Scandivanian design, Svenskt Tenn hasn’t been mass produced and copied. ‘It’s a one-ofa-kind place here. You can only buy from our store, or on our website. This ensures that our pieces don’t tire.’ Looking at the rich imagery and beautiful colourways, there’s clearly no danger of that happening any time soon svenskttenn.se

Above (from lef): Svenskt Tenn Catleya paterned apron; Myrten pewter plate


BIBLIOTEKSGATAN 16


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Table Talk Stockholm’s leading restaurants ofer dishes that make the most of Sweden’s high-quality natural produce while also embracing international infuences. SHOP explores the menus at some of the city’s fnest

Swedish gastronomy has enjoyed a revolution in recent years with hearty homemade dishes replaced with a melting pot of internationally infuenced cuisines. Stockholm’s restaurants have been at the forefront of this change, embracing the spirit of new Nordic gastronomy while also retaining its traditional roots. The country’s high-quality natural produce is widely used in its cuisine and has a signifcant infuence; Sweden benefts from large areas of unspoiled environments with a diverse selection of fora and fauna. Freshly caught fsh and ingredients harvested from the country’s many lakes, forests, mountains and meadows inspire chefs and help to produce dishes that are as ecologically sound as they are delicious. Stockholm’s most talented chefs are adept at combining tradition with innovation; historically, Scandinavian cuisine was constricted by the need to preserve food, resulting in the prevalence of jams, pickled vegetables, and smoked and salted fsh. These items and favours still feature on the menus of Stockholm’s fnest restaurants but have often been given a modern twist – a hybrid that has led to one of Europe’s most intriguing restaurant scenes. globalblue.com


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NOSH & CHOw Nosh & Chow boasts one of the city’s most magnifcent interiors; designed by Spanish designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán, the space has an intimate, speakeasy style, accented with objects sourced from around the world. This international décor refects the menu, which features dishes from a variety of cuisines. Options range from peppered steak with salsa verde and fries to creamy garlic gnocchi favoured with black trufe. Be sure to visit the restaurant’s members-only bar, Bernie’s, which serves highly acclaimed cocktails. vh Nosh & Chow, Norrlandsgatan 24, 111 43 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5033 8960, noshandchow.se


PHOTO: MOrgan EknEr

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e aT With a menu that embraces authentic Chinese favours and recipes from diferent regions of China, eaT is one of the best places in Stockholm in which to sample Oriental cuisine. Its bistro-style dining room specialises in sharing plates, designed to be enjoyed by the entire table. The options include noodles

Oa x e n K rOg every raw ingredient used in Oaxen Krog’s fne dining menu is sourced from Scandinavia. The restaurant uses the fnest produce but also strives to be sustainable, an approach which extends to its interior; the steak knives, porcelain and dining tables were all crafted locally. The result is a fresh, favourful menu: globalblue.com

with scallops, coriander, pak choi and pickled chilli, Sichuan-favoured beef dumplings, and king prawns fried with black pepper, mango, pomegranate and avocado. a spectacular jade bar dominates the dining room – be sure to try one of its asian-inspired cocktails before you leave. vh EAT, Jakobsbergsgatan 15, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5092 0300, eatrestaurant.se

typical choices might include lamb baked in birch bark with thinly-sliced raw mushrooms and a smoked apple purée, or Swedish squid with cream of scallop roe, asparagus and a rhubarb and fennel purée. vh Oaxen Krog, Beckholmsvägen 26, 115 21 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5515 3105, oaxen.com


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eSPeranTO

K ry P I n For rustic Swedish home cooking, look no further than the cosy dining room of Kryp In. Set on a cobbled street in the city’s historic gamla Stan district, the restaurant is a bastion of tradition. The cuisine is satisfyingly hearty; starters of pickled herring and Västerbotten cheese pie complement the main courses,

PHOTO: Paul PrEiss

esperanto combines Japanese favours with native Swedish ingredients and infuences. The restaurant is known for its 10-course tasting menu; start with an amuse bouche of arctic char with grilled cucumber before trying main dishes such as dry-salted monkfsh with lightly smoked liver and Swedish squid with straw-grilled asparagus. The restaurant’s home-baked bread is especially impressive while the dessert of frozen goat’s milk with sea buckthorn and cloudberry is a highlight. Be sure to order the matching wines for the ultimate gastronomic experience. In contrast to the restaurant’s modern menu, the space it occupies has a timeless quality with a muted colour scheme and selected romantic touches – expect to dine by candlelight. sm Esperanto, Kungstensgatan 2, 114 25 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 696 2323, esperantorestaurant.se

such as reindeer accompanied by Jerusalem artichokes, mashed potato and a gooseberry and apricot marmalade. Be sure to end your meal with one of the restaurant’s light desserts – the rhubarb and blackberry compote ofers a perfect contrast to the substantial main meals. sm Kryp In, Prästgatan 17, 111 29 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 208841, restaurangkrypin.se


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Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

SoutH Place Hotel Ofering 80 Conran-designed rooms at the heart of the City of London, the South Place Hotel is one of the capital’s most stylish new openings. The hotel ofers an array of luxurious amenities, with a team of staf on hand to cater to your every need; enjoy a menu of gourmet seafood at Angler restaurant, try globalblue.com

an original cocktail in one of the three bars or relax in Le Chifre private lounge. Each room is also lavishly appointed and features a Bang & Olufsen television, St Clement’s bath products by James Heeley and cleverly designed ambient lighting. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, London EC2M 2AF, +44 (0)20 3503 0000, southplacehotel.com


PHOTO: NILS-OLOF SJOEDEN

S H O P | 89

Hotel Royal Gothenburg’s oldest hotel has been welcoming guests since 1852 and still exudes old-world charm. It retains many of its original features, including a beautifully patterned tiled foor, hand-painted ceiling and art nouveau wroughtiron banisters. In spite of its location at the heart of the city, the hotel has a cosy and

relaxed ambience, enhanced by the individual dĂŠcor of the 79 rooms. Be sure to indulge in the free cofee and homemade cake available in the lobby. Hotel Royal, Drottninggatan 67, 411 07 Gothenburg, +46 (0)31 700 1170, hotel-royal.com


PHOTO: Mikael linden

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Hotel FaBian

PHOTO: ROgeR Méndez

A boutique hotel in the heart of Helsinki, Hotel Fabian ofers quirky design touches and endlessly accommodating staf, helping to make it the perfect home away from home. The hotel is ideally located just a short walk from the historic market square and the city centre’s designer boutiques. Three types

of room are available - Comfort, Style and Lux - all impeccably decorated with subdued lighting and soft furnishings. A number of the Lux rooms come equipped with kitchenettes, but those without catering facilities will fnd the delicious Finnish bufet breakfast a particular highlight. Hotel Fabian, Fabianinkatu 7, 00130 Helsinki, +358 (0)9 6128 2000, hotelfabian.f

H10 Berlin Ku’damm Berlin’s H10 hotel occupies a sought-after location in a historic building just a short walk from the prestigious Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard. The hotel ofers 199 rooms, split between the historic and a more modern wing, with those in the oldest part of the building beneftting from exceptionally high ceilings and large windows. Amenities globalblue.com

include complimentary Wi-Fi, fve meeting rooms, a bar and Salt & Pepper restaurant, which serves a fusion menu of German and Spanish cuisine. Be sure to visit the Despacio beauty centre, which features a sauna, steam room, ice fountain and ftness area. H10 Berlin Ku’damm, Joachimstaler Strasse 31-32, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3229 22300, hotelh10berlinkudamm.com


ACNE APOTEKET BENETTON BOOMERANG CALIROOTS COFFEEHOUSE BY GEORGE FACE STOCKHOLM GINA TRICOT GLITTER HAIR & FACE HALLBERGS GULD HEADSPOT JOE & THE JUICE KRONS UR MATHILDE ET SA VIE POLARN O. PYRET SHE STORE SCORETT SUSHI YAMA THE BODY SHOP TIGER OF SWEDEN UR & PENN VOLT HAMNGATAN / NORRLANDSGATAN Monday – Friday 10 - 20 | Saturday 10 - 18 | Sunday 12 - 17 PKHUSET.COM


City Hall of Stockholm Do what Nobel Prize laureates, royalty and regular people do. Take a break and surround yourself with 18 million golden mosaic tiles, 8 million bricks and 10,000 organ pipes, plus a lot more, in one of the world’s most famous city halls. Shop, and in the summer you can visit the tower with its fantastic view of Stockholm – The Capital of Scandinavia.

Welcome to the City Hall of Stockholm.

CITY HALL OF STOCKHOLM Hantverkargatan 1 +46 8 508 29 058 stockholm.se/cityhall

Photo: Yanan Li


G U I D E | 93

Guide

PHOTO: Paul FrankensTein CC BY-nC 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Stockholm with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest designer boutiques to the best places for fka – Sweden’s traditional break for cofee and cake. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/stockholm.

A GLIMPSE OF STOCKHOLM Above: st. Gertrude’s Church, Gamla stan


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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOs: VeriTy HOgan; sally McilHOne

‘From the historic winding streets of Gamla Stan to the trend-conscious thoroughfares of the SoFo district, Stockholm’s diverse character and inherent warmth offers something for everyone’ Verity Hogan, SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor

globalblue.com


S H O P | 95

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @globalblue. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!


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Svenskt Tenn Peruse the rich prints and vibrant colour palettes showcased by the homeware on offer at Svenskt Tenn. Strandvägen 5, 114 51 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 670 1600, svenskttenn.se featured on page 76

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Moderna Museet Admire works by Marcel Duchamp, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and Henri Matisse at Moderna Museet, Stockholm’s vast contemporary art museum. Slupskjulsvägen 7-9, 111 49 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5202 3503, modernamuseet.se featured on page 105

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Esperanto The acclaimed 10-course tasting menu served at Esperanto combines Japanese favours with native Swedish ingredients. Kungstensgatan 2, 114 25 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 696 2323, esperantorestaurant.se featured on page 87

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GRÖNA LUND (THEME PARK)

Whyred Experiment with the mod-inspired collections on offer at Swedish label Whyred. The brand is known for its classic pieces and wardrobe staples. Mäster Samuelsgatan 3, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 660 0170, whyred.se featured on page 62

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Hunkydory Pick up a new outft, including cosy knitwear pieces, from the stylish new Hunkydory concession in NK department store. Floor 1, NK, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8000, hunkydory.com featured on page 50

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Tourist Information


98 | G U I D E

KUNGSGATAN’S TOP THREE STORES 1. Iris Hantverk The offering from this store is very unusual, as Iris Hantverk specialises in handmade brushes, with a small selection of other practical items for the home. From exfoliating body brushes to egg-wash brushes for use when baking, the range is vast. Every brush is made by visually impaired employees who use natural materials and traditional techniques. Iris Hantverk, Kungsgatan 55, 111 22 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 214726, irishantverk.se

2. Vagabond Swedish shoe company Vagabond takes inspiration from flm, music and architecture, as well as from current fashion trends, to create its distinctive footwear collections. Every pair produced is designed and developed in the company’s Swedish workshop before being crafted from the fnest materials. Pieces are designed with comfort in mind and are sure to be as wearable as they are stylish – expect a pair of Vagabond shoes to stay in your wardrobe for seasons to come. Vagabond, Kungsgatan 33, 111 56 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 221740, vagabond.com

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S H O P | 99 3. WeSC Thanks to its long association with the skateboard and snowboarding communities, Swedish-fashion label WeSC has always had underground associations. This alternative image is refected throughout its streetwear-inspired clothing collection and headphones range. The Kungsgatan store carries the Adidas and Nike skateboarding lines and also plays host to collaborations with other brands; in the past, WeSC has partnered with Happy Socks, Eley Kishimoto and Bing Bong among others. WeSC, Kungsgatan 66, 111 22 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 212515, wesc.com

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K U N G S G ATA N

● SIBA

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Drottninggatan North ● JOHANNAS GARDEROB ● SMYCKES VERKSTADEN ● PÄLS

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SANN DESIGN ● JUVELERARE DAVID HARPER ● BRUD OCH FEST ● SHOCK ●

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Drottninggatan South

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● PISTILL ● TAJ MAHAL ● LAD

KAMMAKARGATAN

BRYGGARGATAN

INDISKA ● DIN SKO ● STADIUM ● INTERSPORT ● CLAS OHLSON ● BROTHERS & SISTERS ● KAPPAHL ● H&M ●

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OLOF PALMES GATA VÄSK & FUSKPÄLS CENTRUM ●

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AMANDAS ● FARRAW ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre

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S H O P | 101

FINEST FIKA SPOTS 1. Vetekatten Vetekatten is a bastion of tradition and one of the city’s most popular cafés. Visitors can expect a warm welcome and relaxed atmosphere complemented by antique furnishings. The café serves a wide range of traditional Swedish cakes and pastries; be sure to try a princess tart, a cream-flled cake encased in green marzipan. Vetekatten, Kungsgatan 55, 111 22 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 208405, vetekatten.se for map go to page 98

3. Xoko A patisserie, bakery and café, Xoko is known for producing high-quality sweet treats. Its menu makes use of the freshest ingredients available and changes with the seasons. Expect freshly baked sourdough loaves to be offered alongside buns favoured with vanilla, cinnamon and cardamom. The café’s interior features sleek metallic circles that add retro appeal. Xoko, Rörstrandsgatan 15, 113 40 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 318487, xoko.se 3

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2. Café Saturnus With its colourful mosaic fooring and silky striped wallpaper, the interior of Café Saturnus helps it stand out from the crowd. However, it is the quality of the food that draws the masses; be sure to try a cinnamon bun – the Saturnus version is regarded as one of Stockholm’s fnest. Café Saturnus, Eriksbergsgatan 6, 114 30 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 7700, cafesaturnus.se

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Bibliotekstan Sturegallerian Mall STUREPLAN KU

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Featured In This Issue

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

● VILLEROY & BOCH

Global Blue Retailer

● THE CASE FACTORY HÄLSOKOST ● ÖRTAGUBBE NS

● NEWHOUSE EIVY FLODIN ● PARFUMERI E

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G U I D E | 105

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MUST-VISIT ATTRACTIONS

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1. Vasa Museum Stockholm’s Vasa museum is Scandinavia’s most-visited attraction. The Vasa was shipwrecked in 1628, recovered in 1961 and has since been painstakingly restored. Visitors are now able to admire the almost perfectly preserved 17th-century ship while learning more about life on-board through the surrounding exhibits. Vasa Museum, Galärvarvsvägen 14, 115 21 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5195 4800, vasamuseet.se for map go to page 97

● GALLERI T ● GALLERI HAGSTRÖM

N ATA

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HIM IKO ● KN ITS ●

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● HILDA HILDA

RLÅ

KALIKÅ ●

N G G ATA N

B AG G E

GUNILLA ANNWALL KONST & PRESENT ●

● KONSTEXPO ● CASTOR ● DIANA ART & FASHION ● GALLERI HG

NSGA TA N

*

STICKA ●

3. The Royal Palace The offcial residence of the king of Sweden, the Royal Palace is one of Stockholm’s most prestigious buildings. The baroque palace features 600 rooms spread across seven foors and includes state apartments that date back to 1700. Evidence of each previous monarch can be found throughout the palace décor. The Royal Palace, Slottsbacken 1, 111 30 Stockholm, +46 0(8) 402 6130, kungahuset.se for map go to page 96

● KR ON AN PÅ VE RK ET

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● GE RT RU D BÅ GE ● AU RE A VI TA ● SIN NE MI NN E

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PHOTO: Alexis DAflOs/KuNGl. HusGeRåDsKAmmAReN

ZNOGG ●

ÖSTERL Å

ORIGINAL GLOBAL ART ●

BORTOM BERGEN ●

2. Moderna Museet The vast collection on show at Moderna Museet features more than 30,000 works of art produced since 1900. The collection includes paintings, sculptures, installations, drawings and prints by artists including Marcel Duchamp, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and Henri Matisse. Moderna Museet, Slupskjulsvägen 7-9, 111 49 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5202 3503, modernamuseet.se for map go to page 97


106 | G U I D E

Götgatan GÖTGATAN

K&US ● M-ZONE ●

Sankt Paulsgatan, Hökens Gata & Högbergsgatan

HÖGBERGSGATAN

HÖGBERGSGATAN

● VILA

HÖGBERGSGATAN

● REFERENCE AUDIO ● SÖDER BOKHANDEL ● MANGLE VINTAGE

ÖSTG

GÖTGATAN

MARITZA ● GÖTGATAN 42 ● GUDRUN SJÖDÉN ● DEZZO ● MARIE JO ●

MARITZA ●

POCKET SHOP ●

HÖGBERGSGATAN

GRANIT PRESS STOP DESIGNTORGET FACE STOCKHOLM

● BYGGFABRIKEN

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Ö STGÖTAGATA N

SVARTEN SG ATA N

Brunogallerian ● MÄSSINGMÄSTER

ADD NATURE ●

H Ö K E N S G ATA

MONKI WEEKDAY APLACE P.112 GÖTGATSBACKENS HÄLSOKOST FILIPPA K PHARMACY TIOGRUPPEN

SKIVHÖGEN ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

POPLIN ● STYLEIN ●

● GLITTER

H Ö K E N S G ATA ● KRISTALLRUMMET

● BELLE SHOES

GÖTGATAN

● THE BODY SHOP

GÖTGATAN

LUSH ● G26 ● SYNOPTIK ● IITTALA ● GÖTA UR & SMYCKEN ● BON SHOE ● TSHIRT STORE ● GINA TRICOT ● ORDNING & REDA ● CARLINGS ● BIK BOK ●

● FACE STOCKHOLM

SANKT PAULSGATAN

● J.LINDEBERG

● MAKE UP STORE ● FRÖKEN SÖT ● TWIST & TANGO

B-YOUNG ●

SANKT PAULSGATAN

● K&US

● MÄSSINGMÄSTER ● SHIRT FACTORY

● HATTBAREN ● GULDSMEDJAN

TOP TIP

FOLKUNGAGATAN

ÅSÖGATAN

HEMTEX ●

● BOLIA PHOTO: YukiNO MiYazawa CC BY-NC-Sa 2.0

BARNBUTIKEN ●

GÖTGATAN

ELECTROLUX HOME ● JOHN PELLE SPORT ● SMART EYES ● DRESSMANN● DETAILS ●

Some of the fnest art in Stockholm can be seen on the metro network. Works frst started appearing in the stations in 1957 and now over 150 artists are featured in more than 90 stations. Tours are available on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and are free with a valid metro ticket.

KOCKSGATAN ● ● ● ●

DUXIANA O&D SPORT ELEGANZ STHLM GALLERI HANTVERKET

ÅSÖGATAN ● MIXAGE

Skrapan ● SÖDEROPTIKEN

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Shopping Centre

Featured in This issue


108 | G U I D E

Östgötagatan, Södermannagatan, Nytorgsgatan & Renstiernas Gata ● BABER & BOOKS

● NINA STOCKHOLM

● ITIK DESIGN

SKÅNEGATA N

MANOS ● LARSSON FURNITURE ●

Å S Ö GATA N

● 6/5/4 PHARMACY ●

R ENSTIERNAS GATA

BONDEGATAN

KRUKMAKERI ANN JUNSJÖ ● ● BENGANS.SE DARLING ●

SÖ DER M A NNAGATA N

ÖSTGÖTAGATA N

ACNE ● MINI RODINI ● FRU LOTTA ● SHOESCAPE ● VICTORIA ● SILVIA INREDNINGAR ●

KOCKSGATAN N YTO RG S GATAN

ÅSÖGATAN

ÅSÖGATAN

COLORS OF AFRICA ●

FOLKUNGAGATAN

● KING LILY

SMILEY VINTAGE ● GALLERI AXEL ● THESEGO TO 11 ●

R ENSTIER N A S G ATA

KOCKSGATAN

4SOUND ●

N Y T O R G S G ATA N

● SOFO'R PETS

DUSTY DECO ●

FOLKUNGAGATAN

S Ö DER MA N N AGATA N

ÖSTGÖTAGATAN

CHILD ● ANTIKVARIAT HUNDÖRAT ●

SMINK OCH ● MASKERADBUTIKEN ● GUITAR PEOPLE ● WILD HEART

BONDEGATAN ● ● ● ●

● V AVENUE SHOE REPAIR COCTAIL DELUXE APPARTEMENT AN IDEAL FOR LIVING STOCKHOLM GRANDPA

SKÅNEGATA N ● TUA SKINNKLÄDER

Uniforms for the DeDicateD menswear label Uniforms for the Dedicated always strives to be the very best. the company’s sustainable collections are designed to be timeless so they can be worn season after season, while the materials used are always high-quality. its stockholm store refects this sustainable approach with up-cycled designs showcased alongside the label’s full collection, which includes suiting, outerwear, knitwear, swimwear and accessories.

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Uniforms for the Dedicated, Krukmakargatan 24, 118 51 stockholm, +46 (0)8 5333 2448, uniformsforthededicated.com


Welcome to visit our stores in Stockholm! Kungsgatan 33 Drottninggatan 33 Feetfrst (Drottningg. 50-52) Sergelarkaden 1 Gallerian (Hamngatan 37) Mood Stockholm www.eccostore.se


110 | G U I D E

Folkungagatan

● HÄSTBITEN

R ENSTI ER N A S G ATA

MEDINAN ●

FOLKUNGAGATAN ● ALBERTS HERRMODE

N Y T O R G S GATAN

KRABAT ●

MILLERS ●

● MOBILEXPERTEN

● AUREA VITA

● GRYNINGEN

KOCKSGATAN

● TJALLAMALLA ● GALLERI GALAXY

S Ö D ER M A N N AGATAN

ELON ●

RETRO.ETC ●

I-SHOP ●

KOCKSGATAN

FOLKUNGAGATAN ● MILDA MATILDA

● MATERIAL

GÖTGATAN

● COLORAMA ● 4SOUND

ÖSTGÖTAGATAN

APOTEK ●

FOLKUNGAGATAN

Kocksgatan FOLKUNGAGATAN R ENSTIERNAS GATA

KOCKSGATAN ● PICOK

N YTORGSGATAN

ATMOSFÄR ●

● MARLO MARKET

ÅSÖGATAN

KLÄDKAMMAREN ●

KOCKSGATAN

SÖDER M ANNAGATAN

DUSTY DECO ●

TALENT GALLERY ●

P.112

HABERDASH ●

THE P CONCEPT STORE ●

ÅSÖGATAN

ÖSTGÖTAGATAN

GÖTGATAN

KOCKSGATAN

125 KVADRAT ●

FOLKUNGAGATAN

Å S Ö GATA N

Rusty Rose

Global Blue Retailer Featured in This issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: RusTy ROses/PHOTOBiGBeN.cOm

Rusty Rose lifestyle boutique is one of stockholm’s most unusual stores, stocking an eclectic product range featuring pieces sourced from suppliers across the Nordic region. there is sure to be something that inspires within the collection; a selection of clothing and accessories is ofered alongside ornaments, candles, crockery, soft furnishings and a suitably stylish set of beauty products. Rusty Rose, skånegatan 53A, 116 37 stockholm, +46 (0)8 644 7797, rustyrose.se

Restaurant

Bar


RENSTIERN AS G ATA

SILVERVERKET ●

NY TORGS GATAN

GRANDPA ●

● ETERVÅG ● TWIST & TANGO

● MARIMEKKO

POP ●

NUDIE JEANS ●

STHLM STADSMISSION ●

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SÖDER M ANN AG ATA N

RUSTY ROSE ●

ÖSTGÖTAG ATAN

R ENSTIER N A S GATA

SALTÅKVARN ●

LISA LARSSON TIME OUT MATILDA WENDELBOE FRED PERRY V AVE SHOE REPAIR SÖDRA SLOTTSKAMMAREN

Harves t Home

● PICOK ● SARA CLAUSIN

● ● ● ● ● ●

NYTORGS G ATA N

S Ö D ERM A NNAG ATA N

CISSI OCH SELMA ●

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R ENSTIER NA S G ATA

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SÖ DERMA N NAGATAN ● BEYOND RETRO

● PIT STOP ● ADESSO ● AYNI ● STUTTERHEIM ● UNI

● KONST-IG

● SNEAKERSNSTUFF

● ADESSO

ÖSTGÖTAGATAN STALANDS MÖBLER ● P.112

BONDEGATAN

● WAMLINGBOLAGET

BONDEGATAN

BONDEGATAN

SK Å N EG ATAN Snoty Sound Bar P.112

Oxelblom

P.112

● DE PONTES

● THE LOCAL FIRM ● EL-SERVICE ● JUNO ● FADE RECORDS ● RACKARUNGAR ● KUNIGUNDA

SKÅ NEG ATAN

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ÅSÖGATAN

ÅSÖGATAN

P.48 SWEDISH HASBEENS ●

SKÅ N EGATA N SKÅNEGATA N

BONDEGATAN BONDEGATAN

Å S Ö G ATA N

ÅSÖGATAN ÅSÖGATAN

Å S Ö G ATAN

ÅSÖGATA N

ÅSÖGATAN

KOCKSGATAN KOCKSGATAN KOCKSGATAN

BONDEGATAN

● INNEBOENDE

globalblue.com

S H O P | 111

Åsögatan

Bondegatan

Katarina Bangata & Skånegatan


112 | G U I D E

MY CITY: Axel WAllMAn

‘I live in Södermalm in the heart of Stockholm. It has great shops, restaurants and cafés. I have all I need just around the corner and it’s a big plus that it’s only a fve-minute walk to the Nudie Jeans ofce and to our fagship store, which is flled with lovely denim. ‘Grandpa * p.111 has a very good mix of clothes, gifts and lots of other items, while in Aplace * p.106 you can fnd a selection of the best Scandinavian brands. For the last 10 years, the guys behind Sneakersnstuf * p.111 have Above: Sandqvist store

given the Swedes the most original sneakers. My friends at Sandqvist have managed to combine style and function with a great price tag. In their fagship store you’ll fnd Sandqvist’s popular canvas backpacks, which are perfect for the city or for the outdoors. Dusty Deco * p.110 is a great place for people who love vintage interior design. ‘When it comes to eating, Svartengrens specialises in locally produced food and serves great drinks. For Swedish dishes, go to Oxelblom * p.111

PHOTO: (TOP) NUDIE JEANS CO

Swedish label Nudie Jeans is committed to providing great denim products. It creates premium jeans which are designed to be worn and loved, as well as other items of clothing exuding Swedish cool. Hannah Lewis spoke to Axel Wallman, Nudie Jeans’ Scandinavian sales manager, about what makes his home city of Stockholm so exciting nudiejeans.com


PHOTOS: (TOP RIgHT) NIKLAS ALEXANDERSSON; (BOTTOm RIgHT)© 2014 AqUARIA VATTENmUSEUm CC BY 3.0

S H O P | 113

which has a cosy atmosphere and nice staf, and if you want to snack on small dishes, go to Reggev Hummus & Espresso bar on Ringvägen. Nytorget 6 * p.111 makes the best lunch in the Södermalm area, while Pelikan is a traditional place serving beer and food; the members of staf never change. Snotty Sound Bar * p.111 is simple but nice; it’s located just across the street from my ofce so quite often I slip in on my way home from work. Riche * p.103 kitchen and bar has maintained its popularity over the years and you can always trust this place.

‘When you’re exploring Stockholm, the Monteliusvägen area ofers a beautiful view over the city. You can always see good photography at Fotografska, and when it comes to museums I always seem to end up looking at the fsh at Aquaria Vattenmuseum, otherwise known as the aquarium! ‘You can walk around Stockholm as it’s not that big. Just start anywhere in the city and ask people to help you fnd your way around. People are friendly and helpful and Stockholm is a safe place to be wherever you end up.’

Above (clockwise from top lef): dessert at Svartengrens; a dish at Riche kitchen and bar; sea life at Aquaria Vatenmuseum; Dusty Deco


114

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2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of SEK 200 and save up to 19% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 124 /

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NEVER ONE PLACE

A LW AY S O N E J A C K E T F R O M T H E M O u N T A I N T O T H E C I T Y , T H E R M O B A L L™ I S T H E B R E A KTH R O u G H I N S u LATI O N TH AT D E LI V E R S u N C O M PR O M I S I N G WA R MTH I N ALL C O N D ITI O N S . D I S C OVE R M O R E AT TH E N O RTH FAC E .C O M

N O W A V A I L A B LE AT T H E N O RT H F A C E ® S TO R E S TO C K H O LM N O R R LA N D S G ATA N

AT H L E T E : L U C A S D E B A R I / L O C AT I O N : M I C A , B C / P H O T O : A N D R E W M I L L E R

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116

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Stockholm Arlanda Airport Terminal 5

Gates 11-24

Terminal 5 Gates 1-10

Departure Hall

2 Che

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Arrival Hall

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Key Partner Refund Ofce

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Landside

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Check-in Area

Airside

Security Control

Stairs

Refund Ofces: Göteborg Landeveter Airport Information Desk, Departure Hall Malmö Sturup Airport Exchange, Departure Hall St Peterline Princess Anastasia information desk Haparanda Gränsresor For a full list of Refund Ofces in Sweden, please visit globalblue.com/refundofces

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©® NOB E LSTI FTE LSE N

Te Nobel Prize Te Nobel Laureates Alfred Nobel

FOTO : HANS NILSSON

Visit the museum shop FOTO : HANS NILSSON

Literature, science toys, chocolate medals

Stortorget 2, Old Town, Stockholm. Subway: Gamla stan. Buses: 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 71 and 76. www.nobelmuseum.se


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119

Translations Русский ПеРевод 54: Water Ways

скандинавское Чудо

PHOTO: Yanan Li/mediabank.visiTsTOckHOLm.cOm

Окруженный морем и озерами Стокгольм производит впечатление настоящего райского уголка, говорит Бет Дрюс

Столица Швеции, расположенная на четырнадцати островах, поражает своей уникальностью и разнообразием достопримечательностей. Каждый сезон года обязательно заканчивается фестивалем, а дополняет эту удивительную атмосферу вода, окружающая город со всех сторон. Стокгольм – это смесь сладкого и соленого, как поется в традиционной шведской песне «Стокгольм в моем сердце», и это сразу может ощутить каждый приезжающий сюда турист. Динамичная городская жизнь на удивление гармонично сочетается с окружающей средой: посреди водных путей и городских лесов расположились модные дизайнерские бутики и ночные клубы, а на мосту, напротив здания парламента, можно заметить усевшихся с удочками рыбаков. Gamla Stan (Старый город), расположенный на одном из островов, является центром города, история которого восходит еще к 13 веку. Стокгольм считается одним из самых хорошо сохранившихся globalblue.com

городов средневековой Европы. Среди уцелевших памятников истории множество изящных мостов и старинных зданий, включая собор, Музей Нобеля и Sveriges Kungahus (королевский дворец) – который является официальной резиденцией короля. Эти впечатляющие сооружения возвышаются над узкими, извилистыми переулками и причудливыми мощеными улочками, приютившими дома самых пестрых оттенков. Зимой здесь все укутано снегом, а теплый свет фонарей создает атмосферу настоящей сказки. Наряду с традиционными достопримечательностями Старый город притаил в себе немало современных развлечений, включая оригинальные бары и рестораны. В симпатичном домике по улице Stortorget расположено кафе Grillska Huset. Оно принадлежит местной благотворительной организации Stadsmission, которая занимается поддержкой бездомных. Район Остермальм с его тенистыми бульварами и спокойной размеренной атмосферой хоть и расположен на суше, но полностью окружен великолепными каналами. Многим туристам по всему миру этот район известен как престижный шоппинг-квартал. В прошлом здесь выпасали крупный рогатый скот, а в начале 19 века район стали интенсивно застраивать. Так здесь появилось множество музеев, посольских учреждений и институтов, благодаря чему внешний облик улиц изменился до неузнаваемости. В Остермальме расположен ряд дизайнерских бутиков, включая Nathalie Schuterman, где посетители смогут найти коллекции Alexander Wang, Balenciaga и Philip Lim. Здесь же находится бутик шведской марки Anna Holtblad, а также роскошный универмаг NK, сочетающий всемирно известные лейблы с продуктовым отделом и многочисленными кафе и барами.


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Среди ресторанов Остермальма особым почетом пользуются бистро Speceriet и удостоенный мишленовской звезды Gastrologik. Для разнообразия внештатный журналист National Geographic Лола Акинмаде-Окерстрём рекомендует посетить остров Сёдермальм. «Сёдермальм задает ритм всему городу своими богемными закоулками, ресторанами этической кухни и магазинами экологических продуктов», – говорит она. А если вы хотите прикоснуться к природе и насладиться захватывающими видами, отправляйтесь прямиком на остров Юргорден (Djurgården). Помимо шикарного парка, здесь расположены несколько важных достопримечательностей, одна из них – этнографический комплекс Скансен. На местных интерактивных выставках можно познакомиться с особенностями шведской архитектуры и шведским образом жизни. Вкусно пообедать можно в ресторане Oaxen Slip, где вас ждут незатейливые блюда из тщательно выбранных ингредиентов. Стокгольм с его каналами и мостами, соединяющими историю и современность, – настоящее сокровище для любознательного путешественника. visitstockholm.com, stadsmissionen.se, nathalieschuterman.com, annaholtblad.com, speceriet.se, gastrologik.se, skansen.se, oaxen.com 62: Cool Collections

Модные коллекции

Марка Whyred уже 15 лет одевает самых стильных шведов, а теперь завоевывает и международный рынок. Салли МакИлхон встретилась с основателем бренда Роландом Юртом Многочисленные шведские бренды добились мирового признания и теперь активно влияют на международную моду. Не будет большим преувеличением утверждать, что Стокгольм становится новым центром актуальной моды и может составить globalblue.com

достойную конкуренцию Лондону, Парижу и Милану. Успеху старших товарищей H&M и Acne наследует стокгольмский бренд Whyred: его уже хорошо знают в родной Швеции, а теперь он стремительно завоевывает международный рынок. Дизайнер Роланд Юрт открыл эту марку в 1999 году, начав с верхней одежды для мужчин. Работая над будущим брендом, Юрт сделал акцент на том, в чем сам разбирался лучше всего, а именно – на пиджаках и жакетах. Именно они и стали основой коллекций: «Я всегда обожал пиджаки, и они мне удавались лучше всего», - делится он. Юрт вдохновляется модой стиляг (которые появились в Великобритании в 1960-е) и в то же время ценит эстетику официальной одежды. Соединив эти два направления, он создал совершенно новый для Швеции образ и занял, тем самым, пустовавшую нишу на рынке. Такие вещи, как пиджак в стиле парки, обеспечили бренду Whyred непреходящий успех и узнаваемость. Сделав столь смелый шаг в самом начале и отойдя от привычного всем образа, Юрт создал серию ключевых вещей, которые теперь время от времени возникают в его коллекциях. «Я сам – поклонник классики. И всегда имею в виду классические


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предметы гардероба, даже если они сильно преображаются в моих коллекциях. Это мои собственные иконы стиля». Такими «иконами» у Юрта стали пальто, которые он изначально создал для мужской коллекции, а затем адаптировал и для появившейся в 2000 году женской. Это вновь отсылает нас к стилягам и андрогинному тренду, который набирает популярность на подиумах и улицах самых модных городов по всему миру. По словам Юрта, женщина, которая приходит к Whyred, носит брюки, бушлаты и лоферы: «Такой образ – идеален. Я на самом деле люблю, когда мужская эстетика получает женскую интерпретацию». Именно поэтому целый ряд вещей, сформировавших в 1999 году мужскую серию, затем перешли и в женскую коллекцию. Таким образом, Whyred обнаружил весьма работоспособную формулу, и Юрт готов развивать это направление: «Таким я и вижу будущее Whyred: парка и бушлат станут классическими хотя бы потому, что они уже существуют уже так много лет». Дизайнер делает на них ставку: возможно, его нежелание предавать их забвению и удерживает бренд на плаву вот уже 15 лет: «У нас есть пиджак, который мы начали продавать еще в 1999 году, и он до сих пор остается бестселлером. Я не думаю, чтобы чем-то подобным могли похвастаться наши конкуренты». Он охотно делится простым секретом успеха с молодыми шведскими брендами: «Делайте ставку на то, в чем вы действительно уверены и что можете делать по-настоящему хорошо». Страсть в британской эстетике (а Burberry – его любимый бренд) дизайнер уравновешивает склонностью к скандинавской простоте. «Шведский минимализм и простой образ – вот чем силен Whyred. Но для восприятия этого необходим контраст, - объясняет он. – Я бы обозначит подход Whyred так: нейтрализовать минимализм. Посмотрите на принципиальную разницу между костюмом и паркой: красивая, чистая вещь подчеркивается чем-то полностью противоположным. Как мне кажется, это

во многом отражает суть Whyred. Я вырос в окружении скандинавского минимализма, но ведь так приятно разбавить его чем-то иным». Помимо вещей, которые не покидают коллекции, в октябре в стокгольмском магазине появится капсульная коллекция, приуроченная к 15-летию бренда. «Мы поиграем с римскими цифрами, обозначающими 15, - X и V. Кроме того, будут подготовлены виниловые записи, а к ним – и специальный граммофон», приоткрывает свои планы Юрт. Пожалуй, сложно придумать более яркий сувенир из Швеции. whyred.se 70: The Soul Of Stockholm

Душа Стокгольма

Культурный центр города приготовил туристам множество приятных сюрпризов, – рассказывает Стивен Дойг Шведский писатель Стиг Ларссон неспроста выбрал главным местом действия своего детективного романа «Девушка с татуировкой дракона» стокгольмский район Седермальм. Несмотря на элегантность и очарование Остермальма и исторические достопримечательности Гамла Стана, Седермальм имеет явное преимущество за счет неповторимой урбанистической атмосферы, которая притягивает ведущих дизайнеров, модельеров и владельцев модных бутиков. Хотя Гамла Стан или Старый Город расположен не так уж и далеко, путешественники могут сразу почувствовать разницу при приближении к Седермальму с его широкими зелеными бульварами, симпатичными особняками, современной архитектурой, живописной рекой и яркой творческой публикой. Говорят, что именно здесь открылся первый в Стокгольме театр, кроме того, здесь родилась Грета Гарбо. Сегодня культурное значение района очевидно как никогда. Одним из самых интересных мест в Седермальме является выставочная галерея


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современной фотографии – Fotografska. В двух шагах от нее расположилось дизайнерское ателье Tio Gruppen, где создают уникальные вещи, сочетающие традиции и современное искусство. Ателье было основано в 1970 году десятью специалистами в области текстиля, с тех пор слава об их таланте разнеслась по всей Швеции. Во главе Tio Gruppen сейчас стоят три основателя компании, которые руководят производством самых разных вещей, от сумок до скатертей, а также устраивают коллаборации со многими марками, включая Peter Andersson, Sundlings и Uniqlo. Когда будете здесь, обратите внимание на обильно украшенные принтами вещи из 70-х и 80-х годов. На одной из тихих улочек расположилась еще одна организация под названием Blås & Knåda. Как и Tio Gruppen это предприятие было основано в 70-х годах коллективом дизайнеров. åно предлагает своим посетителям изделия из керамики и стекла, выполненные исключительно вручную, например, элегантные тарелки с лиственными узорами Malin Adner или керамическую посуду от Bissa G Segerson. Приветливый коллектив Blås & Knåda всегда расскажет вам подробности происхождения каждого предмета, а возможно, что вы даже встретитесь с самим дизайнером лицом к лицу. åбязательно посетите улицы Åsögatan, Götgatan и Kocksgatan, изобилующие интерьерными салонами. åсобый интерес представляет Adesso: наряду со скандинавскими предметами интерьера здесь представлены изделия многих международных брендов, включая изящную мебель от Jonas Ihreborn и индустриальный стиль от RS Barcelona. Вдобавок ко всему в салоне представлены работы собственного производства, такие как красочные коврики и текстиль из переработанных тканей. Затерявшийся в соседнем лабиринте улиц салон Artek демонстрирует работы финского дизайнера Харри Коскинена, наряду с эклектичным ассортиментом изделий из разных стран мира, а в расположенном неподалеку магазине globalblue.com

Asplund можно найти предметы интерьера таких мировых марок, как Tom Dixon и Piero Lissoni. Компания Design Torget, имеющая салоны по всему Стокгольму и Скандинавскому полуострову, отличается довольно интересным процессом закупки продукции. Каждую неделю проходит собрание дизайнерского комитета, на котором производится оценка доступной в наличии продукции и определяется ее соответствие стандартам Design Torget. Любой желающий может направить на рассмотрение комитета свои собственные изделия, а это означает, что начинающим дизайнерам предоставлена отличная площадка. Ассортимент включает в себя замысловатую и красочную посуду от Bricka Odenplan и Mugg Osaka. Когда все идеальные украшения для вашего интерьера уже найдены, уделите немного времени своему гардеробу. В округе представлен шикарный выбор стильной одежды от таких марок, как Nitty Gritty. Седермальм будет идеальным местом для всех, кто хочет найти нечто уникальное, неповторимое и изготовленное местными мастерами. fotografska.eu, tiogruppen.com, blasknada.com, adessostockholm.se, artek.f, asplund.org, nittygrittystore.com 76: In Focus: Svenskt Tenn

В фокусе: Svenskt Tenn

Чарли Нейдпад изучил историю успеха марки Svenskt Tenn, которая еще 60 лет назад открыла новую эпоху скандинавского дизайна и до сих пор не теряет своей востребованности У всякого поклонника и знатока качественного дизайна есть список обязательных достопримечательностей в Европе. В их числе, например, интерьеры Арне Якобсена, разработанные для копенгагенского отеля, или шедевры из муранского стекла. В Стокгольме этот маршрут пролегает через дизайнерский универмаг Svenskt Tenn, расположившийся


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в нескольких очаровательных таунхаусах на улице Standvagen в самом центре города. Эстрид Эриксон основала эту компанию в 1924 году – сначала в качестве мастерской по производству оловянной посуды: Svenskt Tenn переводится как «Шведское олово». Как-то раз она рассматривала мебель, которую ее друзья привезли из Вены, и была приятно удивлена дизайном и принтам. Автором оказался Йозеф Франк – уже известный в Австрии дизайнер. Эриксон сумела убедить его переехать в Швецию в 1930-х годах, где он устроился на работу в Svenskt Tenn. «Получился великолепный тандем: Франк был креативным директором и дизайнером, а Эриксон – стилистом и декоратором», - считает Томми Биндефельд, директор по маркетингу Svenskt Tenn. И этому дуэту удалось пересмотреть подход к скандинавскому дизайну интерьеров в целом. К простому и лаконичному северному стилю, преобладавшему в то время, они добавили живые и изысканные принты. Это привлекло внимание шведской элиты, и, как показало время, стало чем-то большим, чем очередной модный тренд. Именно с принтов Svenskt Tenn начались существенные перемены в холодной скандинавской эстетике. «К моменту переезда в Швецию Йозефу Франку уже было за 50. Он сделал карьеру в центральной Европе как дизайнер мебели и

художник, у него выработался собственный стиль. Это значит, что он был достаточно сформировавшимся дизайнером, чтобы оставить собственный след в шведском национальном стиле», - утверждает Биндефельд. Эриксон и Франк создали новый формат, который с удовольствием восприняли многочисленные последователи. До сих пор в оформлении фирменных подушек, салфеток, абажуров и тканей прослеживается тот же самый узнаваемый стиль. Флора и фауна, извивающиеся виноградные листья и райские птицы, тропические пальмовые листья, рыбки и разноцветные веточки – узоры и рисунки Франка полюбились многим за глубину, насыщенность и живость оттенков. Биндефельд утверждает, что все это не только милый декор, но и нечто большее: «Принты Франка просты только внешне. Присмотритесь – и вы заметите, что узор может повторяться многократно и создавать визуальный объем, а если вы будете следить за его развитием, то можете случайно заблудиться внутри него. Франк всегда считал, что если в комнате белые стены и мягкий интерьер, то на ярком принте глаз будет отдыхать. Чистый белый цвет в оформлении не позволяет взгляду сфокусироваться, в то время как живое изображение создает визуальный акцент». Рассматривая красивые предметы из коллекций Svenskt Tenn, понимаешь, почему принты Франка выдерживают испытание времени. Некоторым из них - более 60 лет, но они прекрасно смотрятся на актуальной, современной мебели: «Эти узоры, в каком бы контексте они ни использовались, уживаются с современным окружением, даже если они родом из 1940-х, 50-х или 60-х годов». В 1944 году Франк преподнес Эриксон 50 различных принтов – по случаю ее 50-летия. И истинным признанием его таланта может послужить то, что большинство из них до сих пор используется в коллекциях марки. Производственная технология Svenskt Tenn открывает богатые возможности для передачи глубины цветов и вариативности


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образов в принтах. Все изображения наносятся с помощью трафарета, соединяя ручное ремесло с машинными операциями. В то же время Биндефельд подчеркивает, что человек непосредственно участвует в процессе на каждом этапе. «Франк использовал уникальные методы. Например, печатал один цвет поверх другого, получая в итоге третий. Это позволяет создавать и использовать больше оттенков», - объясняет он. Приятно сознавать, что в наши дни эта компания, которой управляет трастовый фонд, по личной просьбе Эриксон вкладывает деньги в экологические проекты и медицинские исследования. Интересно также, что продукцию Svenskt Tenn никогда не копировали и не производили массово, как это часто случается с их конкурентами: «Наш универмаг – единственное в своем роде место, и купить вещи под маркой Svenskt Tenn можно только там или на сайте. Это своего рода гарантия, что люди не устанут от нашего стиля». Разумеется, это не единственная гарантия. Разглядывая богатую образность и красивые цветовые сочетания, понимаешь: этот неповторимый стиль просто не может надоесть. svenskttenn.se 114: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

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2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум SEK 200 и сэкономьте до 19% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

54: Water Ways 水道纵横 周边环绕的海洋与湖泊定义了斯德哥尔摩,使其成 为一座令人心旷神迷的城市,Beth Druce报道 伫立于14座岛屿之上的瑞典首都,是独特而又多面 的。在斯德哥尔摩,会因为季节的交替而举办各种节 庆,这里的居民与大自然步调一致,而围绕城市的水 域为该地定下了独特的节奏与风格。一首传统的瑞 典歌曲《斯德哥尔摩在我心中》,描述了咸湿的空气 与甜美的湖水在此交汇为这座城市的氛围带来的影 响,对于来访者们而言这点到来便知道。 在这里,快节奏的都市生活与周遭的环境和谐 共处;即便是最前卫的设计店铺与最热闹的夜店,也 紧邻着水道与茂密森林。这是一座渔民可以在议会 大楼门口的桥上占有一席之地的城市。 坐落于独立岛屿上的Gamla Stan(老城),是 城市原来的中心,其历史可追溯到13世纪。作为欧洲 保存最完好的中世纪城镇之一,它以古老桥梁与历 史建筑闻名,其中包括教堂、诺贝尔博物馆与国王的 宅邸Sveriges Kungahus(王宫)。这些令人印象深 刻的建筑,以浓厚的深褐、赭色或肉豆蔻色呈现,林 立于蜿蜒小巷与古朴的鹅卵石街道间。在冬季,这 些迷人的街道会被白雪覆盖,并被路灯点亮:游客们 会感觉自己直直步入了童话之中。 除了 辉 煌 的历史 遗 迹,G a m l a S t a n 还 拥 有大 量 的 现 代 景 观,包 括 许 多一 流 的 酒 吧 和 餐 馆。Stortorget上的Grillska Huset,是坐落于一 座美丽老房子中的咖啡、熟食与面包店。由城中的


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Stadsmission(一所慈善机构)以一种典型的瑞典 式模式运营,该企业为城里无家可归的人们提供帮 助。 拥有诸多树木环绕的林荫道,气质冷艳优雅的 Östermalm位于大陆之上,同样被水道环绕。作为 全球最负盛名的购物区之一,它已获得了一定的国际 声誉。曾几何时这里是饲养牛群的地方,在19 世纪 这里被改造为博物馆、教育机构与使馆用地,如今 街头巷尾则矗立着一处处炙手可热的住宅。 Östermalm 是许多设计师时装精品店的发源 地,包括销售A lexander Wang,Balenciaga 与 Philip Lim 等品牌的Nathalie Schuterman。瑞 典设计师 Anna Holtblad 同样在这个区域拥有一 家店铺,而奢侈品百货公司 NK则在兼售瑞典和国 际品牌的同时,带来了美食市场、餐馆与酒吧。在 Östermalm 还有许多人气沸腾的餐厅;休闲餐馆 Speceriet与米其林星级餐馆Gastrologik都是时髦 又热闹的地点。 如果想要体会不同的节奏,国家地理杂志的作 者Lola Akinmade -Åkerström推荐 Södermalm 岛。“ Södermalm 就像是城市的心跳,有着各种放 荡不羁的小角落,还有各种环保餐厅与有机环保商 店,”她说。如果你想要呼吸新鲜空气并一览壮丽景 色,则不妨前往皇家狩猎公园Djurgården。这个位 于斯德哥尔摩中心的岛屿,也是适合散步的美丽处 所,这里有不少城中最著名的景点,包括Skansen, 一处露天博物馆与动物园。这里陈设着关于瑞典建 筑的展览,以及展现几个世纪以来瑞典式生活的互 动装置。到饭点了的话可以试试Oaxen Slip,该店以 使用精心选择的食材制作简单美味的菜肴而闻名。 斯德哥尔摩是喜爱冒险的旅行者们的游乐场, 跨过每一座桥都能发现一些不同的风光,水流则将 这一切都连接在一起。 visitstockholm.com, stadsmissionen.se, nathalieschuterman.com, annaholtblad.com, speceriet.se, gastrologik.se, skansen.se, oaxen.com

62: Cool Collections 酷感十足

Whyred品牌已装点了时髦的瑞典人15 年,并开始 在国际上获得成功。Sally McIlhone 将采访品牌创 始人 随着诸多瑞典品牌纷纷站上国际时装舞台,我们绝 对可以放心断言,斯德哥尔摩是与伦敦、巴黎和米兰 比肩的前卫服装设计中心。跟随H& M与Acne 等品 牌的脚步,斯德哥尔摩的Whyred已成为国内家喻户 晓的名字,并正迅速提升国际影响力。 Whyred 的创始人与设计师 Roland Hjort 在

1999 年建立品牌,以制造男士外套起家。在创立 品牌的过程中Hjort充分发挥自己的专长——设计 夹克— —并将此作为W hyred 的立身之本。“我一 直痴迷于夹克,并且很善于设计这种衣服,”他表 示。Hjort发现了外套市场的这片空白,并将其钟爱 的制衣美学与对Mod风格(在1960 年代起始于英 国)的钦佩相结合,创造出瑞典人前所未见的服饰。 这些作品,例如风雪大衣外套,瞬间获得了成功并让 Whyred品牌跃入大众视线。 在最初的聪明才智得到肯定之后,Hjort从未远 离这些帮助他将品牌树立起来的风格造型,他开发 出一系列超越时代的经典单品,并反复呈现在每一 季的设计中。“我是经典爱好者,从一开始经典款式 就驻留在我的脑海中。他们是我的标志。我时刻铭 记着他们,而且他们并不完全相同。” Hjort 的“标志性”单品多数是从男装系列衍生 而出,并在2000 年引入女装系列中的外套款式。这 些产品是对Mod文化也是对中性化,这一在全世界 最时尚城市的 T型台与大街上越发盛行的潮流的致 敬。据Hjort所言,典型的Whyred女人喜欢穿长裤, 双排扣大衣与船鞋。“那种打扮简直完美。在男装方 面,我也喜欢与女装类似的审美风格与标准造型。” 他继续解释道,有些1999 年男装系列中的元 素,被运用到如今的女装系列中。Whyred已经发现 了成功的方程式,Hjort也准备在此基础上继续发 展。“这就是我对Whyred未来的定位。风雪大衣与 双排扣大衣将会成为经典款,因为他们已经存在了 这么久。” Hjort 将品牌15 年来的成功,归功于这些 经典款的魅力,以及他个人不愿将其束之高阁的初 衷。“有一款外套我们从1999 年就开始销售,至今 仍是畅销款。在这点上没有任何竞争对手可与我们 相比。” Hjort 对于其他萌芽中的瑞典品牌的建议非 常简单。“找出你擅长的领域,全力猛攻那一点。” 设计者将其对英式美学的偏爱—— Burberry 是他钟爱的品牌——与其崇尚的斯堪的纳维亚式简 约相融合。“瑞典的极简风格与干净造型在Whyred 的设计中占有重要地位,但你需要一些与之形成对 比的东西,” Hjort 解释道。“今天我发现了一个不错 短语用以定义Whyred:摧毁极简主义。这是西服与 大衣之间的对比——你用截然相反的事物摧毁漂亮 干净的东西。这就是Whyred的品牌 DNA。我从小 被以北欧方式培养成极简主义者,但如果能用别的 东西来摧毁它也挺好。” 除了经典款服饰,从10月其造访该品牌斯德哥 尔摩店的顾客们,还可以找到庆祝品牌15周年的胶 囊系列。“我们将会在字母 X 和V上大做文章,也就 是罗马数字中的15。我们还会制作黑胶唱片在店中 出售,也计划推出电唱机。” Hjort透露。没有比这更 时髦的瑞典旅行纪念品了吧?! whyred.se


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70: The Soul Of Stockholm 斯德哥尔摩之魂 在 这片斯德哥尔摩城中的创意腹地,有着无 尽可 能可供探索,Stephen Doig带您踏上Södermalm 之 旅

曾创作出《龙纹身的女孩》等作品的瑞典作家Stieg Larsson,将书中的主要场景设置在斯德哥尔摩庞 大的Södermalm区,是不无道理的。相较于优雅迷 人的Östermalm区,遍布历史景点的Gamla Stan 区,Södermalm 区洋溢着浓郁的都市气息,吸引 着该国最顶尖的设计师、时尚创意家与精品店纷至 沓 来。 虽然离Gamla Stan 区并不遥远,到访者们向 南进入Södermalm 区时,仍可清晰体察到氛围的 转变,这里有着宽阔、树荫成林的大道,漂亮的联排 房屋,现代风格建筑,无敌水岸景观以及充满活力 的社区。据说斯德哥尔摩地区的首座剧院就诞生在 Södermalm区,这里也是Greta Garbo的出生地, 今日此处的艺术气息依旧昭然若揭。 城中最振奋人心的场所之一,Fotografska,就 位于Södermalm 区,这里被用以举办当代摄影展 览。几步之遥是多品牌设计店 Tio Gruppen,这里 贩卖着融合传统与摩登触觉的产品。这间设计店铺 由10 位织品创意人士成立于1970 年,俨然已成为 瑞典印花设计人才的摇篮。Tio Gruppen 现仍由三 位原创始人所有,售卖从手袋到桌布等产品,该店 还与斯堪的纳维亚家居设计师 Peter Andersson与 Sundlings,以及国际服装巨头优衣库合作推出系 列。在这里可以找到1970与1980年代的原版生动印 花产品。 globalblue.com

附近的一条静谧小道上隐藏着Blås & Knåda。 和 Tio Gruppen 相同,这也是一家成立于1970 年 的多品牌店铺,产品完全由手工制作,例如由Malin Adner设计的美丽树叶图案餐盘,还有来自Bissa G Segerson的纯净风格碗盘与餐具。店内工作人员都 来自各个品牌,会为您详尽介绍产品的每个细节,在 此还有机会见到设计出您感兴趣商品的艺术家。 记得抽出时间拜访室内设 计店铺 林立的 Åsögatan、 Götgatan与Kocksgatan 地区。其中 Adesso格外引人入胜:斯堪的纳维亚设计与国际品 牌济济一堂;其中包括来自Jonas Ihreborn的图案 繁复的家具,与RS Barcelona的工业风格家具。此 外,驻店团队还会利用回收素材,制作出满载美丽细 节的彩虹色地毯与纺织品。 伫立于临近街区中的 Artek,展示着芬兰设计 师 Harri Koskinen的作品,连同来自世界各地的迥 异单品,而在附近的Asplund可见到Tom Dixon与 Piero Lissoni等在国际上掷地有声的名字。Design Torget在斯德哥尔摩与斯堪的纳维亚地区拥有多家 店铺,该店采用一种有趣的方法来决定贩售哪些货 品。每周,设计委员会成员会集结并评估现有产品, 以确保其达到 Design Torget 的预期水准。人们被 邀请将自己的产品送到委员会,这意味着即便初出 茅庐的设计师也可以借此机会崭露头角。从Bricka Odenplan图案精美的厨房用具,到Mugg Osaka精 细绘制的单品,这里提供多种多样的选择。 对于期望 从独立店铺与本土制造商处搜罗到 别致物品的人们,Södermalm 区是最理想的探索 之 地。 fotografska.eu, tiogruppen.com, blasknada.com, adessostockholm.se, artek.f, asplund.org, nittygrittystore.com

76: In Focus: Svenskt Tenn 聚焦:Svenskt Tenn 60 多年以前,Svenskt Tenn 将斯堪的纳维亚设计 带入 新时期,其原创印 花时至今日仍令人赞叹不 已。Charlie Neidpath报道 有些欧洲景点是热爱杰出设计的旅行者们行程上的 固定节目,譬如Arne Jacobsen位于哥本哈根的原创 酒店房间与威尼斯的玻璃器皿。在斯德哥尔摩,设 计爱好者们定会前往Svenskt Tenn,一处位于城市 中心Standvagen,横跨几栋联排建筑的设计天堂。 该公司由 Est r id Er icson 成立于1924 年,并 用作铅锡 合金车间(Sven sk t Ten n 将其翻译成 Swedish Pewter)。后来她见到了一些朋友从维也 纳购买的家具并为其设计与图案所倾倒。家具的设 计者是当时鼎鼎大名的 Josef Frank,她着手开始


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联系他。终于 Frank 在1940 年移居瑞典并开始为 Ericson工作。 “ 他 们 是 天 作 之 合 :F r a n k 作 为 设 计 师 担 纲 创 意,而 E r i c s o n 担 任 造 型 师 并负 责系 列 装 饰,”Svenkst Tenn的市场总监Thommy Bindefeld 表示。 二人将生动繁复的印花加入到当时主流的干净 极简的斯堪的纳维亚风格设计中,重新定义了北欧 的室内设计。这也引起了瑞典社会精英们的关注, 而时间则证明这不仅是图案与色彩方面的流行趋 势——更标志着北欧美学的显著转变。 “ Josef Frank 来到瑞典时已经年届五十,作为 一名事业有成的家具制造者与设计师,他在当时已 经建立了较为稳定的风格。他将这种风格带到瑞 典,并在瑞典设计上留下自己的印记。” Bindefeld表 示。 Ericson与Frank为后辈设计师们开创了全新的 设计模式。今日,其独特之处在该公司贩售的靠垫、 餐巾、灯罩及面料上仍可见一斑。从密集的植物与动 物图案,舞动的藤叶与天堂鸟,到宝石色的热带棕 榈,游弋的鱼儿与五彩的树枝。Frank的设计中饱含 着生机勃勃的色彩、深度和厚度。然而这些绝不仅 仅是漂亮的装饰品,Bindefeld 指出。“他以一种非 常复杂的方式来设计印花,你时常会发现图案在周 而复始地重复着,如果沿着其轨迹观察,感觉就像 迷失在这神秘的图案中一般。” “他的哲学是,如果一件房间四面全白又设计 简约,那么一抹飞溅的色彩将会为目光提供驻留点。 完全纯净的白色大空间让人无所适从,而他那生动 的印花却能使双眼驻留。” 当您徜徉于Svenstk Tenn动人的作品陈列中, 便更能体会Frank 那张扬印花的经典之处:一些 60 多年前的设计,仍能与前卫的摩登家具和谐搭配。“ 这些印花无论以何种形式呈现,都能完美融入到现 代环境中,无论他们是来自1940 年代、1950 年代 还是1960 年代。”在1944 年 Ericson 的50 岁生日 时,Frank 给了她50 款不同的印花——这些作品则

见证了他的远见,其大部分现下都仍被使用着。 Svenskt Tenn选择的生产方式,赋予色彩更深 层的意义,通过印花使图案愈加丰富。每件产品都 经过丝网印刷,这一工序结合了手工与机械操作屏, 不过Bindefeld强调人手仍引领着工序中的每一步。 “ Fra n k 的手法独树一帜,他发明出将两种色 彩互相叠加,制造出第三种色彩的方法。从而获得 了更为丰富的色调与层次。”Bindefeld解释道。 如今这间零售企业由一家信托基金全资拥有, 令人感动的是,在Ericson的要求下,该基金为生态 工程和医学研究领域提供资助。此外值得高兴的, 还有Sevenskt Tenn从未像其他北欧设计一样,被 大规模生产与复制。“这是一处别具一格、独一无二 的所在。你只能从我们的门店或网站购买到我们的 产品。这也保证了我们的设计不会使人产生审美疲 劳。”看这丰富的图案与漂亮的配色,可以确信那样 的事绝不会在眼前发生。 svenskttenn.se

114: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时, 环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global B lue)获得购物退 税,您怎能错 过?您要 做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程:

1. 消费购物 无 论 您 在 哪 里消 费,请 索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表 格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式:

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 SEK 20 0 并且节约高达购买价格19 %的 税。请注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣 除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位 收取现金退税手续费。 globalblue.com


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Souvenir

PERFECT SCENTS Founded in 2008, Swedish perfumery Agonist has quickly become an outstanding and respected name in the world of fne fragrances. Created by Christine and Niclas Lydeen, who approach perfumery as an art form, Agonist specialises in unisex fragrances based on natural and sustainable ingredients, often made in collaboration with renowned perfumers. Rather than using mass-produced containers, the founders wished for the Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 114

character of each fragrance to be refected by its bottle, and so teamed up with awardwinning glass artist Åsa Jungnelius to create a line of ‘sculptures’ in which to store the scents. The Vanilla Marble fragrance has a sweet scent, with top notes of vanilla, Persian almond and tiaré fower, while the beautiful blownglass bottle can be reflled and kept forever. hl Agonist Vanilla Marble fragrance, 50ml, SEK 7,950, NK Kosmetik, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8000, agonistparfums.com * for map go to page 103


SUPERFAST A MINDSET SUPERFAST POWER CONTROL A unique Chopard manufacture openworked movement


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SHOP Stockholm AW14