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GETTING AROUND IN
SCOT TS DA L E Couple surprised by depth of attractions and easy access without renting a car STORY BY JOANNE DIBONA PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANNE DIBONA AND TONY DIBONA
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y first trip to Scottsdale, Ariz., took me quite by surprise. Somehow, I imagined Scottsdale as a predominantly golf and spa mecca, surrounded by miles of luxury resorts and lush greens with dramatic mountain backdrops. To be sure, that image stands true and is an important part of Scottsdale’s appeal. What I didn’t realize is that this decidedly hip and romantic city can be easily enjoyed without a car, and
so many of the city’s charming venues can be accessed on foot or with clean and efficient public transportation. My husband and I chose Scottsdale for a muchneeded getaway, since it is less than an hour’s flight from San Diego and was a part of Phoenix we had never explored. Since we aren’t golfers, we decided to check out the urban scene, having discovered that downtown Scottsdale boasts nine walkable neighborhoods within a square mile. SEE SCOTTSDALE • E12
Clockwise from top: Scottsdale’s desert landscape features saguaro cactuses which have a lifespan of 150 years. Scottsdale can be easily enjoyed without a car, and so many of the city’s charming venues can be accessed on foot, bicycle or with clean and efficient public transportation. FnB is a vegetarian restaurant in the Southbridge neighborhood of downtown Scottsdale. A Martin & Co. guitar in the Dragons and Vines Exhibition in the impressive Musical Instrument Museum in nearby Phoenix.
AMERICANS IN THE MOOD TO EXPLORE THE CONTINENTS Fall-winter getaways rise; destinations span the globe BY SHIVANI VORA Where are residents of the United States traveling this fall and winter? Pretty much everywhere. The 10 most popular vacation destinations cover nearly every continent, even Antarctica, compared with several years ago, when the lineup wasn’t nearly as diverse. Why the shift? Ignacio Maza, the executive vice president of Signature Travel Network, a group of travel agents and hotels, said it’s because an increasing number of travelers have a global mindset and are willing to go anywhere. “Many destinations used to have an offseason and peak season, but the concept of seasonality is disappearing and so is the idea that anyplace is too far,” he said.
ARMANDO FRANCA AP
The 16th century Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon, Portugal. The country is on a growing number of U.S. travelers’ must-see list.
The top locales are more varied this fall and winter, and there are also more U.S. residents traveling, compared with fall and winter last year: Signature, with $7 billion in annual sales, is on track to have $500 million in trip sales for this fall and winter, an increase of 15 percent, compared with last year; Maza said that this number does not include sales of airline tickets. At American Express Travel, a network primarily for leisure travelers, overall travel this fall and winter is up 29 percent, based on airfare bookings, and the New York City travel company Ovation Vacations, which generates $400 million a year in leisure sales, has seen a 29 percent increase, compared with last year, in sales for fall and winter trips, according to the company’s president, Jack Ezon. Below, our list of the five most popular getaway spots come autumn and through the winter. If these don’t pique your interest, maybe the destinations on the
bottom half of the top 10 list will: Paris, Bali, Israel, Antarctica and South Africa.
Portugal The country has become a mustsee country, Maza said. “Signature now sells several thousand trips to Portugal a year, but five years ago, it used to be several hundred,” he said. The travel search engine Kayak has seen searches to Lisbon for fall travel increase 46 percent, compared with last fall, and Made for Spain and Portugal, a Madridbased company which sells luxury trips to Portugal, has sold 30 percent more trips to the country for this fall and winter, compared with last year, said the company’s founder, Virginia Irurita. “Portugal has lots of cultural attractions, a sophisticated wine and food scene, and is a great value for money,” she said. Another plus: The weather in SEE GETAWAYS • E11
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SUNDAY • NOVEMBER 5, 2017
THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE
Baja calendar Tijuana: Photo Exhibition: Through Nov. 6. Photographer and artist Micky Hoogendijk is presenting her art and new first book, “Through the Eyes of Others, I See Me,” at CEART Tijuana. More information: mickyhoogendijk.com
SCOTTSDALE • Free Downtown Trolley hits hot spots
Ensenada: Baja 1000: Nov. 14-18. The 50th annual SCORE Baja 1000 off-road race, featuring various vehicle classes competing on the same course, begins with the Monster Energy Papas y Beer street party (open to everyone) on Avenida Ruiz in Ensenada; the race finish is in La Paz. More information: scoreinternational.com Canceled: Tijuana Salsa and Bachata Festival: Previously scheduled for Nov. 17-19, the event will return Nov. 15-18, 2018, with Latin dance performances and competitions, workshops and socials. More information: tijuanasalsafestival.com Mexicali: Beer n Music Fest: 4 p.m. Nov. 25. Considered the beer capital of Mexico, the Mexicali event features live music, cold beer and a variety of food and merchandise vendors at Club Camac de Mexicali. Admission is $8 in advance, $10 at the door. More information: mexicalibeernmusic.com Mexicali: Marathon: 7:30 a.m. Dec. 17. The 52 Maratón Gobernador Francísco Vega de Lamadrid 2017 begins and ends at Mexicali’s sports complex, Ciudad Deportiva. More information and registration: maratongobernador.indebc.gob.mx Ensenada: Carnaval de Ensenada 2018: Feb. 8-13. The Ensenada Carnival is a centuries-old tradition featuring six days of parades and nights of endless party. Each of the six days of Carnival has a special meaning with different themes and varying activities. More information: ensenada.net Tijuana: Centro Cultural Tijuana (CECUT): Tijuana’s cultural center is open Tuesdays through Sundays. Highlights include El Cubo, a museum hosting major touring exhibits; Museo de las Californias, with a collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts with descriptions in both Spanish and English; La Bola — also known as Domo IMAX — showing Spanish-language films; a concert hall featuring music, theater and dance performances and multiple galleries. $4 admission; IMAX films and special event tickets vary; admission to the aquarium is about $1.50-$2.50; botanic garden admission is free. Paseo de Los Héroes and Francisco Javier Mina, Zona Rio, Tijuana. cecut.gob.mx
Events are subject to change or cancellation. Please confirm information with event organizer before booking your trip. To submit Baja events information, email at least two weeks in advance to cynthia. zanone@sduniontribune.com
An Old West feeling permeates Scottsdale’s historic Old Town, founded in 1888.
JOANNE DIBONA PHOTOS
Camelback Mountain Echo Canyon Trail offers spectacular sandstone formations and breathtaking views of the valley and the Phoenix skyline in the distance. FROM E10 It sounded inviting to avoid the stress of standing in long lines at the car rental and negotiating our route via cellphone to guide us along unfamiliar freeways and streets. But could we really get the most out of our minivacation without a car? We agreed to give it a try. We booked three nights at the W Scottsdale not only because of its positive reviews, but mostly because of its prime location right in the heart of downtown, in the middle of the burgeoning entertainment district. While the hotel can arrange for paid shuttle service from Phoenix Sky Harbor airport, we opted to make the 11-mile ride to the hotel using Uber, for a fee of $22. Our first adventure that afternoon was an urban wine-tasting at LDV Winery and Carlson Creek Tasting room, both located within walking distance of our hotel. Of all the things Arizona is known for, wine might not be the first thing that comes to mind. To our surprise (one of many during our stay), we learned that Arizona now has more than 100 wineries with award-winning vintages, thanks to the varietals that flourish in the high altitude regions of the state. Our hotel concierge had recommended we visit the Scottsdale Waterfront that evening to enjoy the Canal Convergence, an annual, free event that showcases largescale interactive artworks by local and international art-
Bischoff ’s Gallery in Scottsdale’s historic Old Town carries works by Native American, Western and Southwestern artists.
Scottsdale’s Desert Botanical Garden boasts the world’s finest collection of arid-land plants from deserts around the world. ists. We arrived just at sunset, and our first view of Scottsdale’s historic Arizona canal and waterfront area couldn’t have been more dramatic. The vibrant lights illuminating the walkways and the artistic balloons swaying above the canal created an almost surreal image of this chic and architecturally innovative area of downtown. We enjoyed dinner just steps away, at Cowboy Ciao — a Scottsdale icon famous for its Stetson chopped salad and pancetta mac and cheese — as well as for a full menu of eclectic entrees and an outstanding wine selection. You can’t get any better than free when it comes to public transportation and we took advantage of this perk the next day of our visit. The City of Scottsdale operates the vintage-styled Downtown Trolley, which takes travelers through the city’s arts, shop-
ping and entertainment districts. We spent the morning hopping on and off the trolley to explore the heart of downtown Scottsdale, and discovered both old and new along the way. Our first stop was Scottsdale Fashion Square, the largest (and most profitable) shopping mall in the American Southwest, featuring an astounding array of outlets that would satisfy even the most jaded shopaholic. After our foray into the material world, we were ready to go back in time and discover Scottsdale’s picturesque Old Town, founded in 1888. The feel of the Old West permeates this neighborhood, with its sidewalks lined with vintage shops selling indigenous jewelry and artifacts, rustic bars, art galleries and exceptional museums. In fact, Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West, was
What’s On Your
Bucket List? 3-day Vintage Christmas at Hearst Castle
Dec. 13-15, Dec. 14-16 & Dec. 18-20, 2017
$650 per person, dbl. occ. Experience the magnificence of legendary Hearst Castle fully decorated for the holidays as it would have been in the 1920s and ‘30s. Embark on an expanded holiday tour as docents and actors in period attire add life to the opulent surroundings, taking you back to the mansion’s heyday. Spend one night in San Luis Obispo at the Victorian-style Apple Farm Inn, and a night at the Cavalier Oceanfront Resort in San Simeon. You’ll also visit Santa Barbara, the artisan village of Cambria and the Danish village of Solvang, known for its unique Christmas shopping and traditional architecture.
5-day Christmastime on San Antonio’s Riverwalk December 13-17, 2017
$1,895 per person, dbl. occ. The San Antonio Riverwalk is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Texas. During the Christmas season, the famous Riverwalk is set aglow with thousands of luminaries lining the riverbanks and twinkling lights forming a magical canopy over the meandering river that winds its way through this romantic section of the city. Your hotel is right on the Riverwalk and during your stay you’ll embark on a guided sightseeing tour of San Antonio, visit the Alamo, tour the LBJ Ranch and have a chance for an optional day-trip to Austin to visit the LBJ Presidential Library and Texas State Capitol.
New Year’s Eve Celebration & Rose Parade Getaway December 31, 2017-January 1, 2018
$575 per person, dbl. occ. Join us for a special 2-day New Year’s excursion. Celebrate New Year’s Eve with a gourmet dinner and entertainment by a full Big Band orchestra at the Candlelight Pavilion in Claremont. Overnight at the DoubleTree Hotel and ring in the new year the following morning at the world-famous Tournament of Roses Parade where you’ll settle into reserved grand-stand seats and enjoy unobstructed views of this spectacular parade.
3-day Pismo Beach & the Monarch Butterfly Grove February 1-3 or February 8-10, 2018
$650 per person, dbl. occ. Experience nature’s brilliance on a retreat to Pismo Beach and the Monarch Butterfly Grove, home to one of the largest Monarch displays in the nation! Each year the Monarchs flock to Pismo Beach, creating breathtaking cascades of color in the trees as they seek shelter from the northern winters. You’ll be mesmerized by the vibrant orange and black colors swirling through the air like fairies. Your tour includes deluxe accommodations at The Cliffs Resort Hotel.
3-day Death Valley Discovery February 4-6 or February 25-27, 2018
$750 per person, dbl. occ. Come along with us on this remarkable journey to Death Valley, an excursion that crosses the paths of our pioneers through breathtaking scenery and a colorful panorama of American history. You’ll unpack once at the Oasis of Death Valley Ranch, situated in the heart of the valley, and venture out daily to explore this magical land. From the jagged jumbles of crystalline salts tilted into erratic shapes at Devil’s Golf Course, to the surprising splashes of color and intricate folds of silky sand dunes, you’ll witness a kaleidoscope of geological formations and man-made wonders.
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recently named best Western Museum in the nation. We wandered on foot into the Southbridge neighborhood of downtown Scottsdale, where we enjoyed window shopping along its picturesque streets and experienced an exceptional lunch at FnB restaurant. The vegetable-based entrees at this trendy locale are incredibly creative and (though many non-vegetarian options are available), vegans and vegetarians would definitely give this restaurant a vigorous thumbs up. Since it was a glorious early spring day, we decided to make our way to the Desert Botanical Garden, an approximate 4-to-5-mile drive from downtown ($5.25 one-way fare via Uber). This 140-acre garden boasts the world’s finest collection of arid-land plants from deserts around the world, accessible via winding paths that can accommodate baby carriages and wheelchairs. We marveled at the stately saguaro cactuses lining the trails and were surprised to learn that they have a lifespan of 150 years! An added bonus was to watch colorful butterflies of all varieties flutter before our eyes in the newly opened 3,200-squarefoot Butterfly Exhibit. It was evening by the time we returned to Old Town, where we were met by the enchanting glow of lights adorning the towering palms and fountains along East Main Street. We strolled down to the Old Adobe Mission, built by hand in Spanish Colonial Revival style by the Mexican artisans who first settled in Scottsdale in the late 1910s. The Mission Restaurant, located next door, was recommended to us by our San Diego neighbors who hail from Scottsdale, so we felt confident with our choice. And what a perfect choice it turned out to be! In the glow of an adobe fireplace next to our table, we dined on dishes that were a creative mélange of Latin and French cuisine. Don’t miss the amazing tableside guacamole, which is practically a meal in itself. The next morning, we took advantage of the W Scottsdale’s free drop-off
service (to destinations within a 5-mile radius) and were delivered in style to the Camelback Mountain Echo Canyon trailhead. We spent the morning trekking up the rocky and challenging trail, past spectacular sandstone formations and breathtaking views on the valley and the Phoenix skyline in the distance. Our final experience was a visit to the renowned Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix. As musicians, we just couldn’t pass up the opportunity to tour the largest museum of its type in the world. The 19-mile trip from our hotel to the museum cost $21 each way, and we would have gladly paid double for the experience of seeing such an impressive collection. Once you enter the museum’s walls, you can travel the world to see and hear the music and instruments of any continent. Our only regret is that we had only a mere afternoon for this adventure, as we could have gladly spent days exploring the museum’s fascinating exhibits. It’s always a joy to end a trip on a high note, and that we did. After packing our bags for the next morning’s departure to the airport, we made our way to Sushi Roku in the W Scottsdale, where we discovered the culinary joy of “Okamase,” a Japanese phrase that means, “I’ll leave it up to, and trust, you.” Well, we definitely trusted Sushi Roku, and what a culinary experience we enjoyed in return. The exquisitely prepared dishes were presented one after another, from seared scallops, grilled octopus, blue crab tartare, Toro caviar, to the absolutely amazing Japanese Wagyu beef. It was an unforgettable dining experience and a perfect end to our Scottsdale visit. As our Uber driver whisked us away to the airport for our trip home, we congratulated ourselves that we took the challenge to go car-less in Scottsdale. What a ride indeed!
DiBona is a San Diego-based travel writer and photographer. See more of her photos and articles at www.getthepicturetravel.com