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SUNDAY • OCTOBER 13, 2019
Mountains of magnificence
TONY DIBONA PHOTOS
An interactive playground on the Allmendhubel is a favorite for visiting families and must rank as one of the world’s most scenic spots for kids to play.
Switzerland’s towering Alpine setting saturated trip with awe-inspiring views
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BY JOANNE DIBONA
ometimes exceptional travel experiences simply demand a repeat. After visiting the magnificent Lake Geneva area of Switzerland a few years ago, my husband, Tony, and I resolved to return to this beautiful country to continue our voyage of discovery. This time around, we opted to visit the Canton of Bern, famous for its jaw-dropping Alpine scenery, and the cosmopolitan and historical city of Basel, situated on the shores of the river Rhine. We again elected to fly into the Zurich Airport from our San Diego home base. Thanks to the fact that Zurich’s airport has its own railroad terminal, we were on our way in no time after landing. With our Swiss Rail Travel Passes in hand (sure, you could rent a car, but why would you want to?), we settled into our comfortable seats and watched the glorious Swiss scenery roll by. The travel pass gives the bearer unlimited first class train access in addition to several other benefits and discounts. Most importantly, it eliminates the stress of navigating through unfamiliar road systems by rental car. Just getting to our first destination, the enchanting town of Mürren, Switzerland — which happens to be built on an Alpine outcropping at 5,500 feet — was definitely a travel adventure in its own right. It began when we arrived at the Lauterbrunnen train station and enjoyed an “awe” as we gazed at the majestic mountain peaks surrounding us. It’s no wonder this spectacular valley has the reputation of being one of the world’s most Instagram-worthy places. A short bus ride brought us to the cable car, the only way to reach our mountain retreat, since Mürren is closed to vehicular traffic. Despite my appreciable jet lag, I delighted in the beauty of the pristine Alpine scenery (peppered with grazing SEE SWITZERLAND • E11
ESCAPE TO ...
The medieval city of Thun on the shores of Interlaken is best photographed from the portal of the top landing of the 12th century castle that looms over the city. Paragliders sail nonstop over Mürren’s town and valleys, making this area in Switzerland one of the most popular for that sport.
Panoramic view of Basel’s Old Town from Kleinbasel, on the eastern shore of the Rhine.
Ione, Calif.
HAUNTED HOTEL, CREEPY CASTLE MAKE A SPOOKY WEEKEND Town with Gold Rush past also mines its supernatural history
BY MIKE MORRIS There’s something a little eerie about Ione, an hour’s drive southeast of Sacramento. It could be this historic city’s haunted hotel, or maybe it’s Preston Castle, a former boys reform school that’s now a real-life haunted house. At either place you’ll probably experience something spooky. The tab: A night at Ione Hotel costs $85 to $145, plus tax; lunch for two at the Burke Family Restaurant and Bar was $25, plus tip; and general admission to the Preston Castle Haunt cost $30 per person.
The bed
The Ione Hotel, less than a mile from Preston Castle, was built to
house miners and was a stagecoach depot during the Gold Rush. The hotel was rebuilt after a fire in 1910 and renamed the Golden Star of Ione. Fire again destroyed the building in 1988; it later reopened after extensive renovations. The Ione Hotel has 14 rooms, including some with clawfoot bathtubs. Its charming lobby features a chandelier, antique furniture and mahogany staircase. Look closely and you can see the stained glass above the entrance still reads “Golden Star.”
and “The Civil War Ghost.”) Ediza was convinced she had encountered a ghost in the restaurant’s restroom.
The find
The meal
The Burke Family Restaurant and Bar, inside the Ione Hotel, has a dimly lighted dining room with an old Native American stone well that allows you to look down into the darkness. They were serving Sunday brunch when I ate here with Ediza, my 12-year-old daughter, but we chose the regular menu. Ediza got crispy fries,
MIKE MORRIS
Preston Castle, a former reform school in Ione that once housed country singer Merle Haggard, is open for tours and events. creamy mac and cheese and a homemade veggie burger — all washed down with root beer served in a Mason jar. I was trying to eat healthfully, so I chose water and the quinoa salad with sliced
almonds and raspberries. Our friendly waitress brought me a book filled with hotel ghost stories to leaf through while we waited for our food. (Chapters include “The Sexy Lady Ghost”
Spirits are said to linger at Preston Castle, celebrating its 125th anniversary this year. The Preston School of Industry opened in 1894 with seven teenagers transferred from San Quentin Prison; their crimes included grand larceny, burglary and robbery. At the military-style school, the boys spent half their days in class and the other half learning a trade that could support them after their release. Among those who served time was country music icon Merle Haggard, who had a small “PSI” tattoo on his wrist. What struck me most during a self-guided tour this summer was a list of those buried in the Preston School Cemetery. Their causes of SEE IONE • E12