Capital idea: Boise's urban transformation makes Idaho city vacation-worthy

ARTS

T R AV E L

A NEW ERA

BEAUTIFUL BOISE

The La Jolla Music Society celebrates 50 years and opens a new home E4

ARTS

The Idaho capital’s urban renaissance is attracting visitors with creative cuisine, craft breweries and a 25-mile greenbelt of riverside parks E11

FAREWELL SHOW Pasadena art museum will close at the end of its Grafton Tyler Brown exhibition E6

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SUNDAY • JULY 8, 2018

L I F E

S T O R I E S

HOWARD LIPIN U-T

Playwright Martyna Majok, who won this year’s Pulitzer Prize for Drama for “The Cost of Living,” is at La Jolla Playhouse with her new play “Queens.”

‘Queens’ playwright Martyna Majok, who just won a Pulitzer Prize, writes what she knows

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BY JAMES HEBERT

s tales of theatrical baptism go, Martyna Majok’s is pretty hard to top: She saw her first play, “Cabaret” on Broadway, with money she won playing pool while still a teenager. ■ Actually, the story gets better than that: The Polish-born, New Jerseybred playwright had sparked to the power of theater in the first place by going rogue during a high school job. ■ “I worked for an adult literacy program that taught immigrant parents and their preschool-age children English together,” Majok (pronounced MY-oak) is explaining, as she chats before a rehearsal for the West Coast premiere of her play “Queens” at La Jolla Playhouse. ■ “We’d write these skits for situations they might find themselves in, like going to the bank, or ordering at

a cafe. It was supposed to give them muscle-memory language to pull from, just to help them along. ■ “And as I kept writing and working in this program, my skits got more and more elaborate” — until at some point in her ever-deepening narratives, “there was a murder heist at the bank!”■ She laughs boisterously at the memory — something this quick-talking live wire of a playwright does SEE ‘QUEENS’ • E7

often, sometimes punctuating it with a staccato affirmation: “Yeah, yeah, yeah.”

“Queens”

When: 7:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Wednesdays; 8 p.m. Thursdays-Fridays; 2 and 8 p.m. Saturdays; 2 and 7 p.m. Sundays. Through July 29.

Where: La Jolla Playhouse’s Potiker Theatre, 2910 La Jolla Village Drive (Playhouse/UCSD Theatre District) Tickets: $25 and up Phone: (858) 550-1010 Online: lajollaplayhouse.org

O O

“EVEN WHEN IT’S WRONG, SPAMALOT IS OH SO RIGHT” - HOLLYWOOD REPORTER

MONTY PYTHON’S

SPAMALOT June 27 – Aug.12 , 2018

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L gendary dance nu Epic quests. Le

mbers.

Tickets: 619.337.1525 cygnettheatre.org

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SUNDAY • JULY 8, 2018

Capital idea Boise’s urban transformation makes Idaho city vacation-worthy STORY AND PHOTOS BY JOANNE DIBONA BOISE, Idaho

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admit, when my husband and I announced to our family that we were spending an extended Mother’s Day weekend in Boise, Idaho,

we were met by blank stares. “What’s in

▲ The Idaho State Capitol building, completed in 1912, was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, St. Paul’ s Cathedral in London and the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C.

Boise?” our daughter asked incredulously. ■ As it turns out, there was more

to enjoy in this lovely city than we ever could have imagined. ■ We should have gotten the hint when several of our California friends announced that they were

U Boise has a picturesque 25-mile greenbelt of bike and pedestrian paths that links more than 850 acres of parks and natural areas along the Boise River.

moving to Boise in search of a slowerpaced and more affordable lifestyle. Out of curiosity, we logged on to the Boise Visitors Bureau website to research what might woo your average tourist there. To our surprise, we learned that Boise has enjoyed a recent urban renaissance, coupled with a stunning array of cultural, dining and recreational opportunities to boot. ■ We were sold.

▼ Freak Alley, a Boise landmark, is the largest outdoor mural gallery in the Northwest.

Our first surprise came with the ease of getting there. Somehow, the state of Idaho always seemed so far away from our home in San Diego, but our nonstop flight had us touching down on the Boise Airport runway in a little over two hours. There currently are 21 nonstop flights into Boise from airports across the country, with more scheduled to be added shortly.

As promised, our courtesy van was waiting for us at the airport, and within 20 minutes (the airport is a short drive from downtown), we found ourselves in the spacious lobby of the Inn at 500 Capitol. This boutique hotel, just over a year old, piqued our interest because of its creative use of local artwork in its décor, as well as the fact that it offers themed rooms.

As music and opera lovers, how could we resist a spacious suite with a decorative niche above the bed that resembles the set of a “Phantom of the Opera” production?

At check-in, the genuinely friendly staff welcomed us with a choice of beverages and healthy snacks, which are complimentary for guests throughout their stay. As an added touch, we were offered a glass of an outstanding Idaho wine (yes, you read that correctly). While known for its breathtaking wilder-

ness, and perhaps more famously for its potatoes, Idaho is also the producer of some mighty fine wines, which we had the opportunity to sip and enjoy during our visit.

It was dinner time, and we didn’t have to go far to savor a gourmet dining experience. Richard’s Restaurant is located adjacent to the hotel and provides breakfast, lunch, dinner and room service for guests.

Owner and James Beard-nominated chef Richard Langston, who’s been serving the Boise community for more than 20 years, specializes in a dining experience that features locally sourced, seasonal ingredients — with amazing culinary results.

Our next day in Boise was for the birds — literally.

We had read great things about the World Center for Birds of Prey, located in the golden hills of Boise’s backcountry, some 15 miles from our hotel. Since we did not rent a car (no need as Boise’s downtown is easily walkable and also accessible with our hotel’s courtesy bikes), we chose to ride-share to the interpretative center.

To say this visit was inspirational is an understatement. From the moment we walked through the SEE BOISE • E12

TOURISTS EXPERIENCE THE ANCIENT SPORT OF FALCONRY Hotels, vineyards offer demos showing birds hunting prey

If you go New England Falconry: Open year-round, by appointment only.

Located at 4148 Hartland Hill Road, Woodstock, Vt. (802) 4576621; www.falconryatwoodstockvt.com.

BY LISA RATHKE WOODSTOCK, Vt.

Falconry is an old tradition in many parts of the world, including the United Kingdom and the Middle East. But now it’s starting to be offered as an activity for tourists at hotels, vineyards and other sites around the U.S., from Vermont to Colorado to California.

The ancient sport of using birds of prey to hunt wild animals has existed for at least 4,000 years.

Experiences designed for tourists typically show off the birds’ flight and faithful return to their handlers, though in these programs, birds don’t usually bring back creatures they’ve caught.

During a 45-minute session at the Woodstock Inn in Woodstock, Vt., a professional falconer flies a trained bird and provides a his-

Bouchaine Vineyards: Falconry vineyard experiences are offered in spring, summer and fall by reservation, (800) 654-WINE or (707) 252-9065. Located at 1075 Buchli Station Road, Napa, Calif.

ERIC RISBERG AP

A Harris’s hawk lands on the arm of Nick Kontis during a falconry vineyard experience at Bouchaine Vineyards in Napa. tory of falconry and information about raptors. Then guests can try it themselves, handling and free-flying a Harris’s hawk, or they can just observe the sport. In a longer 90-minute session, a sec-

ond raptor is flown.

Bouchaine Vineyards in the Carneros region of California’s Napa Valley started using falconers in 2016 to keep other birds — like starlings and migratory

species — from eating their grapes. Visitors were so intrigued to see the peregrine falcons fly and work with their trainer that the vineyard decided to offer the experience to its guests, along with wine-tasting and lunch.

“It’s wonderful to showcase the site. It’s amazing to showcase the birds, and to be able to actually hold a glove out and have a falcon land on your hand is really an incredible experience,” said Chris

Kajani, Bouchaine winemaker and general manager.

At New England Falconry in Vermont last month, a young Harris’s hawk was eager to do what’s he’s trained to do. He launched from a high wooden platform soaring through the swirling winds over a grassy field and landed squarely on the falconer’s gloved hand, where he was rewarded with a piece of meat.

The Harris’s hawk — the most social raptor because it hunts in groups— had rich brown and tawny feathers, sturdy yellow legs with long, black talons, and intense eyes that allow him to spot prey while soaring high in the sky.

“He has fun out here,” falconer Jessica Snyder says of the 1-yearold hawk named Audubon. “He can catch himself meadow voles, anything from even a worm. He likes to eat worms. He has about 10 times the sight ability of an average human.”

Next Snyder brought out a screeching female barn owl, its flat white face appearing a little sleepy SEE FALCONRY • E12

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THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE

SUNDAY • JULY 8, 2018

FALCONRY • Sport waned after the arrival of guns

ERIC RISBERG AP

A Harris’s hawk lands on the arm of a man during a falconry vineyard experience in Napa.

BOISE FROM E11 center’s doors, we were touched by the dedicated staff’s commitment and passion to the cause of conserving endangered raptors from around the world. Visitors have the opportunity to come “nose to beak” with birds of prey and admire species such as a redtailed hawk and an African owl, perched on the forearms of their devoted trainers, as part of live presentations throughout the day. Don’t miss a visit to the indoor Interpretive Center to find out all the reasons why these birds are threatened. You can also learn all you ever wanted to know about the ancient art of falconry in the center’s Archives of Falconry, which houses artifacts from ancient and modern falconry traditions.

An added surprise, especially for us Californians, was the fact that the center houses the world’s largest captive flock of California condors in nearby breeding chambers to raise young for release to the wild. What we thought would be a few hours’ visit to the center lasted most of the afternoon, but it was time so very well spent learning about the world’s majestic — and unfortunately endangered — birds of prey.

On our third day in Boise, early morning saw us ready to explore the historic and hip downtown we had read so much about. We laced up our walking shoes and headed out down Boise’s main thorough-

Baja calendar Ruta del Vino Bike Ride: July 21. This 40-mile bike ride around Baja’s Valle del Guadalupe starts and ends at Rondo del Valle Winery, with a wine and food festival at the finish line. Race entry fee is $60-$65, with several upgrade options available for purchase.

More information: rutadelvinobikeride.net

fare, Capitol Boulevard, on an uncharted discovery walk — our favorite way of exploring a new city.

Within five minutes, we were delighted to discover Boise’s fascinating “Basque Block,” the heart of the largest concentrated population of Basques outside Spain. The first Basques immigrated to Idaho in the late 19th century to work as miners but soon turned to sheep herding as their primary occupation.

Our first stop was the Basque Museum, where we learned the fascinating history of this ethnic group, whose traditions continue today in Boise and other parts of Idaho. Groceries selling Basque products and artifacts line the streets, and the aromas of paella, chorizo and other specialties being prepared for the luncheon crowd wafted through the air.

A friendly shopkeeper told us about the upcoming festivals scheduled throughout the summer. Our timing wasn’t right, but if you are planning a summer trip to Boise, you might want to coordinate your trip around one of these colorful and unique ethnic events.

As we sauntered up Capitol Boulevard, we stopped constantly for photos of historical buildings, hip cafes, and urban-chic dining establishments with colorful outdoor terraces. We turned a corner at one point and were awestruck by what we later learned was the famous Boise landmark, Freak Alley, the largest outdoor mural gallery

members) are available through Discover Baja Travel Club. More information: discoverbaja.com. U.S. (800) 727-2252.

Tattoo Expo: Aug. 11-12. Tattoo culture takes over the Real Inn Tijuana with international tat artists, live music and more. Admission is about $10-$12.

More information: facebook.com/ tijuanatattooexpo Rosarito Baja Blues Fest: Aug. 17-19.

FROM E11 in the broad daylight. The nocturnal owl with its golden spotted feathers perked up and took flight, flying slower and lower than the hawk, its wings silent in the wind. Snyder called her with a whistle and a “pshhht” sound because owls are very sound oriented.

The birds have a bell and an antenna attached to their leg so they can be

heard or tracked if they fly off. And each bird has a unique personality, she said.

The ancient sport of using birds to hunt rabbits, squirrels, ducks, even foxes declined with the introduction of guns. Falconry only arrived in the U.S. in the early 1900s and tended to be a sport for the elite, according to Sheldon Nicolle, president of the North

American Falconers Association. A recent best-selling memoir, “H is for Hawk,” helped introduce falconry to contemporary readers through the story of a woman training a northern goshawk in England while grieving for her father.

Nicolle estimates there are likely 20 or 30 opportunities for falconry experiences around the country in addition to the Woodstock Inn

and Bouchaine Vineyards, including in southern Vermont at the Equinox resort, and the Broadmoor resort in Colorado Springs, Colo.

“As a falconer, I always tell people essentially all we are is extreme bird-watchers because we’re getting to watch this up close and personal,” he said.

Rathke writes for The Associated Press.

If you go Getting there: Alaska Airlines and Southwest offer nonstop flights from San Diego to Boise with a flight time of slightly more than two hours.

Where to stay: Because we did not rent a car during our stay, we selected the Inn at 500 Capitol (www.innat500.com) for its centralized location, courtesy vans, JOANNE DIBONA

The Cinder Winery is one of the stops on the greenbelt wine tasting tour in Boise. in the Northwest.

We ended our stroll down Capitol Boulevard by arriving at the magnificent Idaho State Capitol building, completed in 1912. Its architects were inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, and the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C. We toured the impressive dome and marveled at hundreds of marble pillars in the building. An interesting note is that this Capitol building is the only one in the United States heated by geothermal water, tapped and pumped from a source 3,000 feet underground.

Boise is known as the “City of Trees” and boasts a picturesque 25-mile greenbelt along the Boise River, which flows through the city. We took the opportunity to end our visit exploring the Boise Greenbelt,

which is best done on a bike.

Our hotel concierge prepared our courtesy bikes for us, and off we went to discover the glorious views along the Boise River bike path, with stops at two wine tasting venues along the way.

The city has long been known for outstanding craft breweries, but Idaho wine is now coming into its own. We met winemaker Melanie Krause at the Cinder Winery, our first stop on our greenbelt wine tasting tour, who poured us heavenly tastes of several varietals, from a delicious dry rosé to a full-bodied syrah.

Our next stop was the Telaya Winery complex, which was located directly on the greenbelt. We sipped a wide variety of exceptional wines as we relaxed on the lovely outdoor patio, watching an endless stream of

First and foremost a fundraiser for regional children’s charities, this festival on the waterfront at the Rosarito Beach Hotel & Resort is a good-time blues fest. This year’s headliner is Chubby Carrier & the Bayou Swamp Band. More information: bajabluesfest.org

sand sculptures, a sand sculpture competition for families and amateur artists, numerous food and merchandise vendors, live music, beach games and more. More information: eventbrite.es

Baja Sand: Aug 24-26. Baja Sand, a sculpture festival and competition held at Playas de Rosarito, features international sculptors creating intricate

Fiestas de la Vendimia: Aug. 3-19.

Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe marks the annual wine harvest with a variety of events celebrating the many “fruits” of the region, ending with the Concurso de Paellas — a paella competition and consumption party — on Aug. 19. More information: provinobc.mx

Feria Tijuana: Aug. 24-Sept. 16. The Tijuana Fair, held at the state park, Parque Morelos, features typical fair attractions — beauty contests, food vendors, rides, music, cultural and sporting events and more. More

spacious themed-suites and complimentary bicycles. In addition to airport pickup, the inn provides courtesy transportation within a 5-mile radius of the hotel throughout your stay.

For more information: Visit the Boise Convention & Visitors Bureau website, boise.org, for detailed information on planning a visit.

bikers roll by on the path along the riverbanks.

If you’ve never seen Idaho wine in your favorite wine store, there is a good reason.

Most of it remains in the state for local consumption. However, both wineries offer popular wine club memberships, and rumor has it their most loyal members are actually from California. We were so impressed with Idaho’s wines that we took advantage of Alaska Airlines’ “Wine Flies Free” promotion for Mileage Plan members and returned home with a case of these outstanding Boise vintages.

We would have reluctantly ended our tour of Boise at this point. But thanks to the suggestion of Telaya winemaker Earl Sullivan, we biked on to enjoy more experiences along the greenbelt. We crossed a bridge to discover the Esther Simplot Park and enjoyed picture-perfect views of families kayaking along a stream, sunbathers taking in

the rays on white sand, and stand-up paddleboarders gliding in the blue waters of Quinn’s Pond.

At one point, we watched canoers ride the waves in a special breakwater that created swells and rapids in the pristine Boise River.

We couldn’t leave Boise without experiencing one of the many craft breweries downtown. On our final evening, we raised a glass of hearty brew at the cozy Bittercreek Alehouse, just a few blocks from our hotel, to salute our great decision to take this pleasure trip to Boise.

The Boise Visitors Bureau’s tagline is: “Boise: It’s Time to See for Yourself.” We most definitely agree!

information: tijuana.gob.mx

packages are available. More information: sabordebaja.com

Sabor de Baja: 6 p.m. Aug. 29. The sixth annual “Sabor de Baja” returns to the Rosarito Beach Hotel with the friendly culinary competition featuring 25 of Baja’s top chefs, paired with the finest Mexican wines and artisanal beer producers. White attire is mandatory.

Tickets include access to all food and wine, live entertainment, a commemorative wine glass and more. Tickets cost $70-$85 per person; hotel room

DiBona is a San Diego-based travel writer and photographer.

See more of her photos and articles at GetthePictureTravel.com or on Instagram at @joannedibonaphotos.

Events are subject to change or cancellation. Please confirm information with event organizer before booking your trip. To submit Baja California events information, email at least two weeks in advance to cynthia.zanone@ sduniontribune.com

Keep Active. Stay Healthy.

Enrich Your Life!

Concurso de Paellas: Aug. 19. As the closing event of the Fiestas de la Vendimia, the Concurso de Paellas — under the oaks at Viña de Liceaga, a winery in San Antonio de las Minas — features 80+ teams presenting paellas for competition and consumption, plus tastings of more than 130 different wines from 50 Valle de Guadalupe wineries. Tickets ($70 per person; $60

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Ronald Reagan Presidential Library & Genghis Khan Exhibit....$129 Travel with us to the Reagan Presidential Library - also Ronald and Nancy’s final resting place - in Simi Valley. The museum features dozens of state-of-the-art interactive displays, thousands of artifacts, and a full-scale replica of the Oval Office decorated as it was during Reagan’s presidency. You’ll walk through the presidential jet used by Reagan as well as several other presidents and enjoy a catered luncheon beneath the wings of Air Force One. Your tour also includes access to the exclusive Genghis Khan exhibition featuring 200 rare artifacts from Genghis’s 13th century Empire, the largest such collection ever to tour. Dates: July 14 & August 4

KING TUT: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh.....................$125 In celebration of the 100-year anniversary of the discovery of King Tut’s tomb, join us on a once-in-a-lifetime excursion to the California Science Center in Los Angeles to view the unprecedented exhibition KING TUT: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh – the largest King Tut exhibit ever toured. Come experience these priceless artifacts, 60 of which have never before traveled outside Egypt! Your excursion includes timed-entry into the Tut exhibit, tickets for the Mysteries of Egypt IMAX presentation and timed-entry to see the Space Shuttle Endeavour.

Dates: Multiple departures July-September 2018

Catalina Island Daycation Getaway .....................................$139 Discover the romance and enchantment of Catalina Island when you cruise with us to the charming village of Avalon. You’ll travel by motor coach to Newport Beach and board a 75-minute cruise to the island aboard the Catalina Flyer. En route to Catalina you’ll have the opportunity to purchase optional tours to enjoy during your visit, such as a scenic tour of Avalon, a botanical gardens tour, an inland tour to see wild American bison, and others. Once on the island you’ll have five hours to enjoy lunch and experience a variety of what Catalina has to offer.

Dates: Aug 18 & Sep 8

VANCOUVER TO HONOLULU

Puerto Nuevo Mexico with Lobster Lunch ........................$125

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Journey with us down the coastline of Baja, Mexico for some colorful shopping, a welcome margarita, and a traditional Mexican-style lobster lunch in the cobblestone seaside village of Puerto Nuevo. Your trip also includes a visit to the historic Rosarito Beach Hotel, shopping at the nearby open-air bazaar, and a stop at a traditional Mexican bakery. Note: A valid passport is required on this tour.

Dates: July 26, Aug 11 & Aug 25

Lake Arrowhead Village with Narrated Cruise................... $115 Retreat with us to the refreshing tranquility of beautiful Lake Arrowhead. This Alpineesque wonderland has long been a favorite mountain hideaway for Hollywood elite and a backdrop for many motion pictures since the early 1900s. On this popular summertime getaway you’ll experience a delightful narrated lake cruise aboard the Arrowhead Queen, where you’ll learn of the area’s rich history while savoring the peaceful beauty from an offshore vantage point. Then, enjoy free time for shopping and lunch on your own in this cozy and quaint mountain resort paradise Dates: August 4th & August 23rd.

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