GetHiroshima Mag Winter 2016 by GetHiroshima

BE MORE THAN A TOURIST

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GH Awards

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Hot Springs

Art

Getting Around

Fashion

THE WINTER ISSUE 2016

getting around

Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

Asa Zoo

Meipuru~pu bus

(Kamiyasu)

Limousine bus (Hiroshima City > Hiroshima Airport) ori

asu

miy

kat

World Heritage Route (boat) (Peace Park > Miyajima)

shi

higa

Yasu

i onda

Bish

chi

Oma

Chorakuji

Matsuyama Super Jet Ferry

ichi

Furu

JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

Tomo Obara

Nakasuji

Transport Museum

Tomochuo

(Chorakuji)

Ozuka

JR Train Lines Nishihara

Astram Line fares vary according to distance.

Koikikoenmae

¥190~480

Big Arch Stadium

Gionshinbashikita

Ushita

Station JR

Tera-machi

him

k Fu

Hiroden nishi Hiroshima

c a-

i-c

a Ko

ae m e) e- om m bD do m

Dobashi

K hi-

o ch

Shinkansen Station Hiroshima Station JR

¥110

Hakushima

Hiroshima Station

Katei Saibansho-mae Shukkeien-mae Jogakuin-mae Kamiyacho Higashi

-c

isu

c a-

i-m

Matoba cho

Hatchobori

Okonomi-mura mae

Nisseki byoin mae

Hiroden Honsha mae

ki-

iyu

Minami machi 6-chome

i sh

The flat fare for inner city travel on the streetcare is ¥160 (child ¥80)

¥160

Moto-Ujina-guchi

a ug

k zo Fu ai- ae d -m ro Hi oin y nb Ke

e m ho -c e -3 om a h e in Uj -4-c om ina -ch Uj a-5 i in or Uj n-d iga Ka

Ujina 2-chome

Hiroshima Port

Miyajima

Matsuyama

The fare for travel on Miyajima bound streetcars varies according to distance. (¥260 to Miyajima)

i-m

ina

Eba

Miyajima-guchi

-c

i-2

h ac

Takano-bashi

Funairi-kawaguchi-cho

u ak

i-k

ina

Shiyakusho-mae

Funairi-saiwai-cho

ijiy

Museum of Contemporary Art

ita

jiy

Fukuro-machi Chuden-mae

Mazda Stadium

Hondori Peace Park

hi-

b ko

Tate-machi

o cB

ak i nb(Atom hi i ac h i-m mac r i nna Fu i-ho ir na Fu Ge

Kamiyacho Nishi

Funairi-minami-machi Miyajima Guchi JR

Line

Hakushima Line, All Destinations,

Bus Center

h -c

Tokaichi machi

Nishi Hiroshima Station JR

Sanyo Main

Shin-Hakushima Johoku

Kencho-mae

Betsuin-mae

(Ushita)

Museum of Art

Yokogawa 1-chome e

in nL

Big Wave

Hakushima

Yokogawa Station JR

Yokogawa Station

(Fudoinmae)

Hakushima

Shin

Kabe Line

Mitaki JR

Mitaki Temple

Fudoin Temple

Fudoinmae

(Koikikoenmae)

WELCOME Only a few days after our last issue came out, local heroes the Hiroshima Carp ended a 25 year wait and clinched the Central League pennant in commanding and fine style. The title came on a Saturday night and the city went crazy, revellers riding the wave of jubilation until dawn. A national championship was, alas, not to be. But love for the Carp being what it is, rather than disappointment and derision, the almost unanimous response was genuine and effusive thanks for a memorable season. This issue’s “Carp-joshi” cover girls are our tribute to the team’s valiant efforts. Matt Mangham, who was carried away by the victory in more ways than one, revisits those heady autumn days.

Cover: Yōko, Kumiko, Hiroko Photo: Junpei Ishida

Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh ゲット・ヒロシマ・マガジンの前回の号がリリースされてから数日後、広島カープが圧倒的な強さで25年ぶりのセ・リーグ優勝を果たしました。優勝が決まった土曜の夜、市内は熱狂に包まれ、人々の歓喜の渦は明け方まで続きました。日本シリーズは残念な結果に終わってしまいましたが、カープファン達は失望や愚弄することなくカープに対する愛を貫き、記憶に残るような今シーズンにしてくれたことに心から感謝していました。今号のゲット・ヒロシマは、カープの勇猛果敢な努力を讃えるため、カバーを「カープ女子」にしました。カープが勝利し、色々な

The cold weather is the perfect excuse to do what Japan loves to do most; eat and drink! This issue is packed with cozy places where you are sure of a warm welcome. Start by checking out the winners of our first Best of Hiroshima Awards, as voted for by our readers and move on to Michelin stars and wine bars. Work off some of those calories on the slopes in nearby Ohnan in Shimane. Or, just go take advantage of the hot springs and gorge yourself further on their amazing country food and sake.

意味でテンションが(体も)アップしたマット・マンガムも、この熱い秋の日々について書き綴っています。寒い冬は、日本人が愛する「食べる&飲む」の季節。今回のゲット・ヒロシマ・マガジンでは、必ず温かく迎えてくれる、心地よいお店を沢山紹介しています。ゲット・ヒロシマ・マガジンの読者が投票したヒロシマ・アワードを受賞したお店から、ミシュランの星を獲得した店、そしてワイン・バーまで盛りだくさん!また、飲み食いしたカロリーを、島根県の邑南町周辺のスキー場で消費してはいかがですか?スキーはしなくても、温泉や渓谷を楽しんだ後、

Winter is also the season for reflection. We remember Mac, proprietor of the legendary MAC Bar, who passed away just weeks after the bar that bore his name was torn down. Goto Izumi laments the passing of another Hiroshima institution (one that local men of a certain age may be more familiar with than they like to let on), the Daiichi Gekijo strip theater. Time marches on, our company of players and the props that decorate our stage come and go. From here, in our home away from home, it does appear that the world wants to hurry us along and the future seems uncertain. But, to quote Goethe: “Sometimes our fate resembles a fruit tree in winter. Who would think that those branches would turn green again and blossom, but we hope it, we know it.” Paul Walsh

GetHiroshima Mag Issue 12 December, 2016 Circulation 10,000 copies Published quarterly by GetHiroshima Next issue March, 2017 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara

美味しい田舎料理とお酒をいただくのも良いですね。

Editorial assistance JJ Walsh Kismet Cordova Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Art Direction: Judith Cotelle Contributors Kismet & Damien Cordova Judith Cotelle Amy Isaacs Goto Izumi Matt Jungblut Matt Mangham Charlie Rose JJ Walsh Scott Yano Photography Judith Cotelle www.jud-hiroshima.com Jumpei Ishida Matt Jungblut Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/ Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com JJ Walsh Goto Izumi Paul Walsh Scott Yano

そして、冬は、この１年を振り返る季節でもあります。伝説のMAC Barオーナー、マック氏も、彼の名前が付けられたバーが閉店して数週間後に亡くなられました。また、広島の名所であった第一劇場(ある程度の年を重ねた地元男性が、口には出さないけれど、実はよく知って

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いるストリップ劇場)が閉店したことを、我らのゴトウ・イズミ氏も嘆き悲しんでいます。時は過ぎ、私達のステー

GetHiroshima

gethiroshima

ジを彩ってくれた人々や支えとなってくれた場所も、現れては消えていきます。故郷から離れた、この広島にいても、めまぐるしく変わる世界に急かされているようで、この先もどうなるか分かりません。しかし、ゲーテは、こう記しています。「時に私達の運命は、冬の木に似ている。

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誰も、この木の枝が再び緑に包まれ、そして花を咲かせるとは思わないだろう。しかし、私達は、それを願っている。そして、そうなることを知っている。」

All rights reserved © GetHiroshima 2016 As far as we are aware, all info correct at time of going to print. If you see something that has changed, we’d really appreciate you letting us know at info@gethiroshima.com Warning/Disclaimer

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GetHiroshima will not accept liability for any damages caused by the contents of GetHiroshima Mag, including, but not limited to any omissions, errors, facts or false statements. Opinions or advice expressed in GetHiroshima Mag are not necessarily those of GetHiroshima. No content published in GetHiroshima can be reproduced, republished, retransmitted or redistributed without permission.

CONTENTS 02 / Getting Around 03 / Welcome 04 / Contents 05 / GetHiroshima Picks 06 / Festival Focus 11 / Illuminations 22 / Good Stuff 27 / Art Listings 28 / City Maps 32 / Place Listings 46 / Eat The Day! 55 / Matt’s Moment

FEATURES 12 / Winter Wonderland Ohnan Head to the mountains for fun on the slopes, hot springs and... volleyball? 16 / Best Of Hiroshima Awards Check out the winners of our inaugural readers’ awards. 24 / Hiroshima Street Fashion Walking a mile in the shoes of some of our local residents. 38 / Larimar: The Stone of Love And Peace Serendipity links a Caribbean island with “The City of Peace” via a rare and beautiful stone.

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42 / Eating The Stars Working through Hiroshima’s Michelin starred restaurants. It’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it. 44 / Winter Wining (And A Little Dining) Judith Cotelle escapes the cold in some of her favorite bodegas. 48 / In Memoriam: Mac This year Hiroshima lost one of its most loved sons. Matt Mangham remembers Mac. 50 / Goto Izumi’s Deep Hiroshima Goto Izumi bids farewell to an unlikely Hiroshima institution.

GetHiroshima picks You’ve been to the Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima. What next?

PEACE PAGODA

FAN FANTASTIC

KAGURA

Walk up Mt Futaba from Tōshō-gū shrine along a path that takes you under 100 red torii gates through an old growth forest to great views from the Peace Pagoda at the top.

Love for the Hiroshima Carp is unequivocal. Baseball fan or not, a home game is always memorable. Soccer lovers can enjoy the Japanese stadium experience at a Sanfrecce game.

Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms, complete with dry ice, fireworks and exploding cobwebs. City center shows at Kenmin Bunka Center on December 2, 9, 16 and 23.

MITAKI TEMPLE

EAT!

SHIMIZU GEKIJO

Cure Kyoto “temple fatigue” and calm the soul in the gorgeous verdant grounds of Mitaki Temple, 20min walk up the hill from Mitaki station (3 stops from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line).

Okonomiyaki is both a meal and a culinary performance. Oysters and tsukemen cold noodles in spicy dipping sauce are also local specialities. Wash it all down with some great local sake.

Step into the world of Japanese vaudeville performed by itinerant troupes with very loyal fans. 3hr shows at 12pm & 6pm (¥1900) or catch the 1hr finale for just ¥1000. http://bit.ly/shimizugekijo

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

ISLAND HOP

OUT ON THE TOWN

Wander through the miniature landscapes in this city center garden or take a seat by the lake and watch the koi carp, turtles and birds. Lovely rain or shine.

Hiroshima Port is the gateway to the islands of the Inland Sea. Sleepy Ninoshima is the nearest. Don’t have great sea legs? Stroll the Ujina waterfront or walk over to Moto-ujina island.

We urge you to eat, drink, and yes, make merry with Hiroshima people. It’s only then that you can get a real appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is and truly feel its message of peace. GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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winter Festivals

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new Year お正月 CHINKASAI 鎮火祭

HATSUMODE 初詣

A spectacular start to New Year celebrations on Miyajima. After a frantic battle to snatch sacred flames carried by shrine priests, bands of islanders parade huge flaming torches back and forth near Itsukushima Shrine. It can get quite hectic, and, well, fire! Keep your wits about you and any kids close. The Chinkasai starts at 6pm and is over within an hour or so. If you plan on making a night of it and staying on the island until midnight, or perhaps hiking up Mt Misen to see the sunrise, places to stay warm are few and far between, so plan accordingly.

New Year’s Eve in Japan is usually a quiet affair, hanging out, eating toshi-koshi soba noodles and watching the annual kōhaku singing contest, variety shows and the ringing of temple bells broadcast from around the country on TV. Just about everyone will make a ritual New Year shrine visit or hatsumōde at some point during the first few days of the new year and many head out soon after midnight. Many city shrines become crowded in the early hours of the morning and it can be fun to stroll among those clustered in Futaba-no-sato near Hiroshima Shinkansen Station, where the air is full of subdued excitement. A good number of people do head into the city center to party. Groups of barhopping revellers tend to move from place to place in waves, until a consensus builds that it’s time to head to Gokoku Shrine next to Hiroshima Castle. Here, a sometimes motley, but always good-natured crew of clubbers, bar staff, hosts and hostesses pay their respects at the shrine and hang out at food stalls selling everything from candy apples to oysters. It’s not Times Square, but, warmed by kerosene stoves and hot sake, it’s unusually lively for Japan on New Year’s Eve. Observing the crossover between the increasingly bedraggled nite owls and worshippers arriving in their Sunday best is also entertaining.

New Year ceremonies & Bugaku Court Dances at Itsukushima Shrine

1/1: Shin-i Kenjo-shiki Ceremony (offering new clothes to deities) from midnight Saitan-sai Festival Ceremony bugaku dance 5:30am.

Well over half a million people line up at Gokoku Shrine to pay their respects in the first 3 days of the new year and the shrine does a brisk trade in votive goods, amulets and fortunes. It is also a popular time to have your car blessed for safe travel. Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima also attracts many thousands of people over the new year holiday and it is a good time to view traditional bugaku traditional court dances.

1/2: Futsuka-sai ceremony 09:00 / Noh performance 11:00 / Bugaku dance 13:00 1/3: Genshi-sai ceremony 09:00 / Bugaku dance 13:00 1/5: Chikyu-sai ceremony & bugaku dance 05:30 (includes Batō Sunrise Dance only performed once a year.) GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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tondo とんど

What happens to the previous year’s hamaya “demon-breaking” arrows, ornamental rakes and daruma dolls which expire with the ringing in of the new year? Around here, they go up in flames. Dropped off on hatsumōde shrine visits when replacements are bought, they are blessed and cast, along with New Year decorations, onto spectacular tondo bonfires. The bamboo pyres range from just over head-height to giant towers as high as a house. Impressively intense, loud cracks and pops explode from the flames. Your clothes may well smell of burnt offerings and charred bamboo when you leave, but think of it as taking a bit of good luck home with you.

Once the flames die down, it is common for mochi rice cakes to be roasted over the embers. Some places pass around warm sake, others offer zenzai sweet bean soup which is a real treat with roasted mochi on a cold winter day. Tondo matsuri are held in the grounds of many of the larger shrines and in public spaces, such as school grounds and along Hiroshima’s wide river banks where local communities gather and roast mochi rice cakes and warm sake over the flames; usually on the 2nd or 3rd weekend of January, generally on the weekend closest to January 15.

Tondo is usually a local affair, but you are unlikely to encounter any hostility if you show up at one. Visitors blend in at Gokoku Shrine’s tondo which is always held on January 15 and the tondo in the park next to Sorasaya Shrine (January 8, 2017) is also pretty accessible. In the countryside, tondo towers or shinmei are more elaborate and are often, as at the Sanba and Notohara Tondo festivals to the west, paraded before being set alight.

momote-sai 百手祭

The bow and arrow has a strong presence in Shinto ritual. The Momote-sai takes place at stately Ōmoto Shrine, about 10 minutes west of Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima. The ritual is said to symbolize a determination to live the year without conflict.

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After various rituals inside the building, a priest archer accompanied by an arrow bearer steps out into the precinct and, watched by many onlookers, “fires” arrows towards heaven, the earth, left and right. He then shoots at a target with the character oni (demon) painted on the back. Finally, he shoots towards heaven, the earth, left and right once more. After the ritual, visitors line up to receive

shrine blessings and sacred sake. A medieval warrior dish called hohan is also served. Things end on a fun note when the arrows used in the ritual are given out to lucky visitors by drawing lots. The Momote-sai is held every year on January 20 at Ōmoto Shrine on Miyajima, starting at 11am.

setsubun 節分

On February 3, across the nation people don demon masks and scare the life out of little kids, throw beans to cast out misfortune, eat giant sushi rolls, spear stinky fish heads and fight for lucky bags of snacks. Setsubun rites are carried out at both Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. In Hiroshima city, ritual archery is performed at Gokoku Shrine and stinky sardines are grilled and pierced with sprigs of holly at Sumiyoshi Shrine. Large crowds also gather at Daishō-in Temple on Miyajima and at Saikoku-ji Temple in Onomichi where local notables toss out beans, snacks and small gifts. DIY setsubun kits, complete with demon masks and packs of dried soy beans can be bought at supermarkets and convenience stores. Draw straws and throw the beans at the demon shouting Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi! (“Out with the demons and in with the luck!”). For extra good health and fortune, eat as many beans as your age plus one. The chomping down of long ehomaki sushi rolls in one go while facing the year’s lucky direction (north-northwest in 2017) might be a Kansai import, but can be fun and makes for a cheap meal.

mihara Daruma Festival 三原神明市

This 3-day festival dates back almost 450 years to the construction of Mihara’s, then seaside, castle, the site of which is now dissected by the Sanyo shinkansen line. Conceived as a way of fostering trade and business, lucky daruma dolls began to be sold in the 19th century. There are indeed many daruma for sale and the festival symbol is a giant 180kg doll. These days, the festival is also known for attracting a huge array of food hawkers, so if you like street food and big crowds, this is one for you. The 2017 Mihara Shinmyo-ichi Daruma Festival will be held February 10-12. GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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|| 12/6 Traditional bugaku court dance, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima (afternoon) || 12/23 Tenchō-sai, traditional bugaku court dance Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima, 09:30 || 12/31 Chinkasai Fire Festival, Miyajima, 18:00 || 1/1-1/5 New Year Rituals & traditional bugaku court dance, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima || 1/5 Hiroshima City Dezomeshiki New Year Firefighters Ceremony, Site of old basball stadium 10:00 || 1/7 Nanakusa-gayu Traditional 7 healthy herb soup, Tōshōgū Shrine, 11:00 || 1/8 Tondo Festival, Sorasaya Shrine (afternoon) || 1/8 Saitōgoma Hiwatari-shiki ritual fire walking, Saikoku Temple, Onomichi, 10:00-12:30 || 1/8 Notohara Tondo Festival, Notohara Elementary School, Near Tomo-no-ura, 14:00 || 1/9 Traditional mid-winter swim, Motoyasu River in front of the A-bomb Dome, 11:00-12:30 || 1/11 Oyumi-jinji ritual archery, Momoshima, 09:30-11:00 || 1/14 Tondo Festival, Tōshōgū, 11:00 || 1/15 Tondo Festival, Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine, 10:00 || 1/15 Sanba Tondo Shinmei Festival, Sanba Elementary School, Onomichi, 12:00-17:00 || 1/20 Momote-sai ritual archery, Omoto Shrine, Miyajima, 11:00 || 2/3 Setsubun, Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine, 15:30 || 2/3 Setsubun, Sumiyoshi Shrine, 14:00 || 2/3 Setsubun, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima, 11:00 || 2/3 Setsubun, Saikoku Temple, Onomichi, 11:00 || 2/10-2/12 Mihara Shimei Ichi Daruma Festival, Mihara || 2/11-2/12 Miyajima Oyster Festival, 10:00-15:00 || 2/12 Setsubun, Saikoku Temple, Onomichi,14:00 || 2/17-3/20 Hina Doll Displays, Tomo-no-ura

Find more about these events and more at www.gethiroshima.com/events 1. Dezomeshiki New Year Firefighters Ceremony 2. Traditional mid-winter swim 3. Setsubun-sai, Ōyama-jinja, Innoshima Island 4. Miyajima Oyster Festival 5. Oyumi-shinji Ritual Archery, Momoshima Hachimangu Shrine, Momoshima Island

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Illuminations Large scale illuminations have become a new winter tradition in Japan. Held all over the country, they certainly brighten up the long dark nights. Here are the Hiroshima area’s most popular illuminations.

hiroshima dreamination

1.4 million LEDs light up Hiroshima’s city center in an attempt to create a winter fairyland of peace. The main displays line Peace Boulevard and the atmosphere is quite festive. Kids giggle as they run among the sparkly creations and couples canoodle. More restrained lighting along the river next to Peace Memorial Park is very pleasant and the giant Christmas Tree in front of the Pacela shopping center is a good place for seasonal selfies. Peace Boulevard and around the city center November 19-January 3 / 17:30-22:30

bihoku park winter illuminations

This expansive park in Shobara is a favorite destination for dating couples looking for a romantic setting and families after some holiday magic. Deep in the countryside, the lights really pop. The 17:30 switch on is pretty cool and the Japanese village area is surprisingly tasteful. Fireworks every Saturday. November 19-January 9 including the New Year Holidays Illuminations 17:30-21:00 (Final admission 20:00) http://www.bihoku-park.go.jp/ Access: 5-10 minutes from Shobara IC on the Chugoku Expressway

miyajima

pageant of flowers and light

Hiroshima’s botanical gardens open late and the grounds are illuminated to great effect. The centerpiece is a giant Christmas Tree outlined on the ground by hundreds of candles. Other installations include a light maze, dinosaurs and a giant Mt Fuji tableau. Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens Saturdays, Sundays & National holidays November 26 - December 25 16:30-21:00 (Final admission 20:30) Free admission for Junior High School & younger Free shuttle buses from JR Itsukaichi Station North Exit (20min) from 15:30.

miroku-no-sato “music illumination”

Miroku-no-sato amusement park in Fukuyama goes all out with the illuminations. 800,000 bulbs light up the 50m ferris wheel and many many displays. Saturdays, Sundays & National Holiday November 7-28 Every day December 1-January 9 (except New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day) Fireworks on 12/23 & 12/24. Night admission (from 16:30) Adults ¥800, Children ¥500 http://www.miroku-hoshizora.jp/ Access: 30 minutes by bus from JR Fukuyama Station

Of course, you can always put off taking the ferry back from Miyajima until after dark and enjoy the calmer, more traditional and beautiful sight of Itsukushima and the floating torii gate illuminated by floodlights from sunset to around 23:00. GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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Winter

d n a l r e d n o w

Ohnan

We have partnered with Ohnan in Shimane Prefecture over the past year because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wonderful place to escape the city and recharge by spending time in some beautiful countryside and experiencing the slower pace of rural life. Focused on agriculture, things in Ohnan really wind down during the winter months. It is, however, home to one of the best snow resorts in the area. A day on the slopes, followed by a soak in a hot spring bath and a hearty meal is a great way to make the most of this time of year.

Pick up maps and pamphlets at the Tourism Association at Koboku no Mori Garden (below Craft-kan). http://www.ohnan-kanko.com/english/ E-mail: inbound@onantown.onmicrosoft.com

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Gotsu

Hamada

Shimane Pref.

Ohnan Mizuho IC Chiyoda JCT

Hiroshima Pref.

Hiroshima

GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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mizuho highland Mizuho Highland is one of the most popular snow resorts in the region. With 15 courses across two mountain sides, it accommodates all skill levels and offers superb views from the 1200m high summit. Plus, only 3km from the Mizuho expressway exit and just an hour drive from Hiroshima city, it is very accessible. Those who like a bit of freestyle will enjoy the biggest snow park in the area, and Mizuho has really raised the bar in terms of dining options. The resort also provides great support for families with young children. Full day lift pass ¥4800 (¥4500 early & late season) Great for families! Lift passes only ¥1000 for under 16s, tots under 6 years old ride free. Tubing and sledding in the ‘Wanpaku no Mori’ beech forest area. Play area for little ones in the lodge and day care service for kids 3-6 years available by reservation (full day ¥5000, half day ¥3000, 1 hour ¥1000). Night Sessions (17:30-22:00) On New Year’s Eve, January 11 and every Saturday in January and February. Lift pass ¥2500 for adults (15:00-22:00) and free for under 16s! Check snow conditions on the website www.mizuhohighland.com or on their Facebook page @mizuhohighland

Getting to Mizuho Mizuho Highland is just over 70km from central Hiroshima and it takes about 1 hour 20 minutes by car (exit at Mizuho IC on the Hamada Expressway). From December 23, Chugoku JR buses leave from Hiroshima Bus Center (Stop #9) at 07:15 and Hiroshima Shinkansen Station entrance (Stop #3) at 07:40. They return from the slopes at 17:00 and get you back to town between 18:30 and 19:00. Reservations are advised and tickets for adults are ¥2500 one way (¥2000 if you book 5 or more days in advance and kids are half price). Tickets available from the Bus Center and Swallow Travel on the 2nd Floor of the Shinkansen Station.

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Apres Ski and Lodging in Ohnan Stay overnight to get the most out of your time in the mountains. There is nothing better than a soak in a hot spring bath followed by a hearty dinner after a day on the slopes.

Ikoi no Mura Shimane

kiri no yu onsen A casual restaurant serves great country-style Japanese food, and you are just a short walk from the highly rated AJIKURA Italian restaurant.

This hot spring is across the road from Koboku no Mori herb garden. It has outdoor baths and is attached to accommodation with tatami rooms overlooking the adjacent lake.

All of the rooms at Ikoi no Mura offer fantastic views over the Ohnan basin; if you are lucky, you might wake up to see the unkai ‘Sea of Clouds’ phenomena laid out before you. No outdoor bath here, but the view from the onsen is wonderful, especially at sunrise.

For those who prefer to be more self-sufficient, bungalows are also available for rent just below Kiri no Yu Onsen.

minpaku

snow volleyball Winter isn’t just about skis and boards, not in Ohnan anyway. Join local teams in this fun volleyball tournament in the snow in early February. Follow @ohnantown on Facebook for details.

Staying with a local family is a great way to experience Japanese culture. Ohnan has good number of welcoming hosts with many years of experience catering to visiting skiers. Accommodations are often more simple than the other two lodgings, but very homely and you’ll be very well fed. Check out the Ohnan Town Facebook Page @ohnantown for news and updates!

GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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best of hiroshima 2016 gethiroshima readers’ awards We are pleased to announce the winners of the inaugural Best of Hiroshima Awards, as voted by our readers. It was both gratifying to see some of our favorites take many of the top spots and exciting to discover a few new places. Looking at the results, it seems clear that when it comes to wining and dining, to secure a place in our readers’ hearts, you have to offer a warm welcome as well as great food and drink. Thanks to everyone who cast their votes online and congratulations to all the winners and runners up. Now, let’s dive straight into the results.

Best Okonomiyaki

Winner: Lopez

Honorable mentions: Nagata-ya, Okonomiyaki Mura

Fernando Lopez may have added some Latin spice, with spicy jalapeno toppings and side dishes like chorizo and chili, but make no mistake, his okonomiyaki is the real deal. His fame is spreading worldwide thanks to being featured in bestselling author Matt Goulding’s culinary journey through Japan, Rice, Noodle, Fish. Loved by locals, no matter how busy things get (and it gets very busy) he and his staff are always happy to see you.

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1-7-13, Kusunoki-cho, Nishi-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-232-5277 16:30-23:00 Monday-Friday & 11:30-14:00 Tuesday & Friday Closed Saturday & Sunday

AWARDS 2016

Best Japanese Restaurant

Winner: Ayur

Honorable mentions: Miyabi-tei

A new one to us, we had to go and check out this clear winner. We were not disappointed. Disarmingly charming chef Katsu speaks excellent English and his passion for good food made with super fresh ingredients is clear. Letting Katsu do the choosing with an omakase course consisting of creative interpretations of traditional Japanese dishes is highly recommended, but he very patiently explained the whole menu when we went a la carte on our visit.

Best Fancy Restaurant

18-5 Higashi-hakushima-cho Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-221-4533 18:00-23:00

Winner: Hiroto

This French-not-French restaurant, just south of Peace Boulevard on Jizo-dori, kicked off Matt Jungblut’s tour of Hiroshima’s Michelin-starred restaurants in our autumn issue. There is no a la carte here and you place yourself in the very capable hands of hands of the chef, selecting an omakase course by price which you can watch get constructed in the open kitchen. Dig out your autumn issue to read much, much more about Hiroto, or check out Matt’s review online at http://gethiroshima.com/dining/hiroto/

4-17 Fujimi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-247-9889 18:00-24:00 Closed Mondays

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AWARDS 2016

Best Western Restaurant

Winner: Kemby’s

Honorable mentions: Molly Malone’s, Blue Moon Cafe

These days, it’s no mean feat to keep a street level restaurant as spacious as KeMBY’s going. Prakash has done more than just keep his Ote-machi dining bar going, however, building up the wine list, bringing in more international beers, both bottled and on draft, and expanding his food menu menu. As well as the burgers for which KeMBY’s is known, recent additions are meats straight from the barbeque and Chigago style deep dish pizzas. It’s also still a great spot to just enjoy a drink or two by yourself at the bar.

Best Non-Japanese Asian Restaurant

Winners: Warung Matahari & Sawadee Lemongrass Grill

5-8-13 Ote-machi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-240-2082 17:30-23:00 Closed Mondays

Unless you live in the area, heading as far south as Takanobashi for a bite to eat can require a bit of motivation. However, the immersive Indonesian bungalow-like atmosphere and warm welcome you’ll receive from the staff and master chef Surasna provide all the incentive you need. Their expansive menu offers dishes that are as beautiful as they are delicious and complex, along with a wide range of exotic tropical cocktails.

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2-9-13 Ote-machi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-249-6201 11:30-00:30 Sunday-Thursday, 11:30-01:00 Saturday & Sunday

Horikawa-chō, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-241-0066 11:00-14:30, 17:00-22:30 Monday-Thursday & Sunday, 17:0022:30 Friday & Saturday

Headed by an experienced Thai chef and with a ‘Thai SELECT’ certification from the Thai government, Lemongrass Grill on Chuo-dori (accessed from back of Mozart cake shop) is highly rated for its authenticity. Along with Thai staples like Pad Thai and Tom Yam Soup, signature dishes on the wide menu include Pu Nim Pad Pong soft shell crab curry and Chiang Mai Khao Soi Gai curried noodles. If you like things spicy, ask them to crank up the heat.

AWARDS 2016

Most Foreigner Friendly Bar & Best Casual Bar

Winner: Molly Malones

It seems like all the bars that are most friendly to Hiroshima’s barbarian community are also “casual” bars. I wonder why… There was a great deal of overlap in these two categories, but it was “Hiroshima’s Authentic Irish Pub” that took top spot in both. Molly Malone’s continues to satisfy need for a “local pub” that so many GetHiroshima readers feel. Mark and his staff do an amazing job maintaining a welcoming atmosphere, and the comfort food on the menu doesn’t do any harm either..

Best Cafe

Honorable mentions: Revolución , Koba, Centre Point

1-20 Shintenchi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-244-2554 17:00-01:00 Tuesday-Thursday, 17:00-02:00 Friday, Saturday 11:30-02:00, Sun& Hols 11:30-24:00

Winner: Cinnamon Shokudo

Whenever I go to the Cinnamon Shokudo I feel like I’d like to just sit there for hours flicking through magazines or reading a good book. A Dobashi sidestreet is the perfect location for the little blue and white cafe; it’s like somewhere in a Japanese indie movie. The menu, simple fare inspired by longtime staples found in Japanese kissaten and eateries look amazing and taste great. A great place to chill by yourself, or to bring friends to help you take on the full-size Honey Toast.

3-4 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-942-3424 11:30-18:00 Closed Tuesdays

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AWARDS 2016

Best Vegetarian-friendly Restaurant

Winner: OTIS! The lunch plates are great value, especially if in the mood for veggie Tex-Mex, at this long-running, quirky cafe-cum-restaurant-cum-bar-cum-music venue near Peace Memorial Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs. Meat is also on the menu, so it’s great for “mixed groups”. And the pecan pie is delicious.

1-20 Kakomachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 082-249-3885 11:45-23:00 Monday-Saturday, 16:00-23:00 Sunday

Best Dance Spot

Winner: Bar Ken’s & Tres Marias

Honorable mention: MAC Bar With an energetically lit dance floor, flat rate ¥500 drinks, and one of the friendliest barkeeps in the city, Bar Ken’s is the place to be on a lively weekend night if you want to act out a house party scene from your favorite movie. Ken is always happy to play requests and keeps it bumping with a mixture of classics and current beats 2F 7-14 Yagenbori, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi 090-8067-4878 / 21:00-late

Best Live Music Venue

Winner: Organza Goto Izumi’s place in Tokaichi isn’t big, but it packs in a lot of weirdness. On any given night, see might catch anything from a silky-voiced singer-songwriter to an avant-garde Burlesque show here. 1-4-32 Tokaichi, Naka-ku Hiroshima-shi 082-295-1553 17:30-01:00 Tuesday-Friday, 11:30-01:00 Saturday, 11:30-24:00 Sunday Closed Mondays

Best Import Store / Winner: Jupiter

Best Dessert / Winner: Mario Dessert

Jupiter Shareo Underground Mall, Nishi Street 27, Naka-ku 082-242-7371 / 09:00-21:30 Mario Dessert 4-8 Shintenchi, Naka-ku (Namiki-dori) 082-544-4956 Monday-Thursday, Sunday & Holidays 11:00-21:00, Friday & Saturday 11:00-21:30

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AWARDS 2016

out & about Best Day Trip

Winner: Miyajima

Best Festival Winner: Toukasan â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Yukataâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Festival

Honorable mentions: Flower Festival, Saijo Sake Matsuri

Honorable mentions: Sandankyo Gorge, Mitaki Temple

Best Cherry Blossom Spot

Winner: Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

Best Kids Spot Winner: Family Pool

Honorable mention: Kintaikyo

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hiroshima mono koto store http://www.monokotostore.com/ map C p.31 [C-2]

Hiroshima Mono Koto Store is a bricks and mortar incarnation of an online store with the mission of selecting and showcasing beautifully crafted products by up and coming Japanese creators and artisans. The inviting shop is in the ‘Urabukuro’ shopping area that runs just south of and parallel to the Hondori shopping arcade. Inside, the wide range of inventive products on display includes bamboo tableware, stylish handbags fashioned from paper, local ceramics, jewelry, razor sharp knives and wooden children’s toys.

words & photo: jjwalsh

It’s an interesting place to browse, though, with surprisingly reasonable prices, there’s a good chance you’ll walk out with a unique gift or a treat for yourself. Mono Koto Store is also a nice place to enjoy a freshly brewed cup of pour over coffee.

hiroshima’s bilingual child whisperer

Long-time Hiroshima resident and bilingual kid whisperer, Adam Beck, recently published his book Maximize your Child’s Bilingual Ability: Ideas and inspiration for even greater success and joy raising bilingual kids.

The book is a cumulation of Adam’s many years working with bilingual schools and research groups as well as his personal triumphs and challenges with his own two bilingual monkeys at home. Like the many supportive and positive suggestions and ideas offered in the book, Adam is also a great coach for parents and teachers trying to put good intentions into practice. Through his website Bilingual Monkeys and a thriving community forum, The Bilingual Zoo, Adam keeps busy offering support and possible solutions to the frustrations his readers face. As if raising two kids, writing books, teaching classes and managing a website weren’t enough, Adam also does personal coaching and consulting via his website. When I brought up the difficulty

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of motivating tired kids, Adam was quick to offer suggestions and ideas, as well as personal anecdotes which helped me see more clearly where I might be going wrong. The book is packed full of great ideas and techniques and Adam says it can serve as a kind of reference book to dip into when facing different issues at different times. The key to success, he says, is establishing good routines as early as possible. But don’t worry if you haven’t yet, it’s never too late to start. Adam’s energy and enthusiasm for bilingual education is both motivating and infectious, and this comes across in

his writing. It’s not only about language, he adds, fostering multilingual confidence also helps kids better adapt to the various challenges they will meet in life. “Maximize your Child’s Bilingual Ability: Ideas and inspiration for even greater success and joy raising bilingual kids” is available now in print and on Kindle. Read more about Adam and how to help your own children and students grow up bilingual at bilingualmonkeys.com.

Kan awa Proud producers of Hiroshima’s delicious oysters since 1867, the next chapter in Kanawa’s history begins at their new oyster boat restaurant next to Peace Memorial Park.

Ka k i fu ne Oys te r Boat Private gourmet experience

Premium cuisine, river view

on the Wakyu floor.

on the Seto floor.

Oyster, seafood or “best of Hiroshima” omakase courses. Lunch ¥6480~ Dinner ¥12,960~ Reserv required, 1 course / customer

Sukiyaki gozen lunch (sashimi, sukiyaki, rice) ¥3240 7 dish oyster selection ¥4860, full oyster banquet ¥12,960

Lunch: 11:00-14:30, Light meals: 14:30-16:00 (L.O), Dinner: 17:00-22:00 (L.O.21:00) 5min walk from A-Bomb Dome (082-241-7416) Map C p.31 [B-2] 5 We welcome telephone reservations in English.

H ir os h im a’ s s fr es h es t oy st er Kanawa’s oysters are farmed in offshore waters that meet strict regulations.

Kaki Meian Oyster Bar Enjoy raw oysters with a glass of wine. 11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-7317) map A p.30 7

ASSE Kanawa Casual setting, same great food. 11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-3296) map A p.30 6

Kanawa Hiroshima Airport Compare oysters from around the world! 08:00-L.0 20:00 3F Hiroshima Airport (0848-86-8330)

English menus and ma jor credit cards accepted at all locations - www.kanawa.co.jp

FASHION

hiroshima street fashion: shoe collection

Words / Photos: Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/

jovine antonio, 25

Occupation: Freelance Makeup Artist and Owner of ‘Do Beau by Jovine’, English Teacher www.facebook.com/beaubyjovine / Style: Sexy and Cute / Most of my shoes are ankle-length because I think they’re very versatile and they go with almost all of my outfits. I wear my burgundy pairs when having coffee with friends or going out by myself. My ghillie shoes are for long walks around the city while still looking fab. My combat boots are for when I want an edgier look. And, of course, my on-the-go mustard color ankle boots on regular days exploring Hiroshima. Each pair expresses my personality and mood whenever I put on an outfit. Transportation and weather play a big part of which pair I wear. Truly beautiful shoes may take you to beautiful places, but they are also made to protect our feet. :) / Favorite shoes: I love my mustard color ankle boots! I’ve had them since I first came to Japan in 2013 and they are both comfortable and fashionable. / Favorite Hiroshima stores: Zara and Uniqlo

hideki rodrigues, 34

Occupation: Dance Instructor, Coreographer, and Co-Owner of ‘El Abrazo de Tango Hiroshima’ http://www.dear.ne.jp/~tango378/ Style: Modern chic with a classic twist that gives me confidence in both my daily life and as an instructor. / I work just about every day, being that I have my own dance studio. This means I spend almost 100% of my waking hours in dance shoes. My 5 looks are all dance shoes meaning I wear them at work, out on the dance floor since they all have suede soles. / Favorite shoes: I really love my solid black dance shoes because they’re not only super comfortable, but are also classic and simple, so they go with all my looks. They’re definitely my ‘go to’ pair of shoes. / Favorite Hiroshima stores: I actually import almost all my shoes from Buenos Aires, but in Hiroshima, I enjoy shopping at Zara.

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Shoes can say a lot about a person. Where they’ve been, where they’re at and where they’re going. Take a moment to walk a little while in the shoes of four individuals making their way in opportunity and adventure-filled Hiroshima.

eric thompson, 34

Occupation: Education / Style: Influences from sports, hip hop and growing up on the west coast. / All my shoes are Jordans and I love them all! Favorite shoes: Jordan 11s. I liked them from the first time I saw them back in the 90s. I believe they were the first pair of basketball shoes that used patent leather and just looked amazing. I guess everyone else thought so too, cause, to this day, they are one of the most popular pairs of Jordans and always sell out immediately. / Favorite Hiroshima stores: Wasistockts and Power House - though size and or pricing can be an issue at times.

kaori jacoby, 43

Occupation: Tattoo Artist, ‘Loveberry Brand’ Revamped Boots Creator and Owner, Freelance Digital Design Specialist https://www.facebook.com/gizmoscollection/ / Style: Native American inspired style with a mix of Boho Chic. I love nature and feeling comfortable. / I wear my boots mainly in cooler weather and in the winter months. I enjoy sporting them wherever I go to be honest. They draw a lot of attention, but that encourages and inspires me to create even more. Especially styles that blend with each individual’s original and creative style. / Favorite shoes: The purple pair has been a ‘labor of love’. I spent hours on them, but enjoyed every minute. They’re intricate, but not too `busy’; charming yet not too ‘loud.’ / Favorite Hiroshima stores: I mainly shop online where I look for comfortable and unique styles with earthy hues that calm my mind and motivate my creative spirit. When I do go shopping in Hiroshima, I tend to find myself in second hand shops, but nine times out of ten, I’d rather create my own fashion at my shop because it always perfectly meets my fashion needs. GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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FASHION

hiroshima street fashion: shoe collection hidden fashion treasures of hiroshima chapterz` ink spot On entering this cozy, little shop, I was instantly itching for some new ink and fancy, handcrafted boots to match. ‘CHAPTERZ` INK SPOT’ is a hot spot for both a body and/or wardrobe makeover. If you’re looking to get inked, be sure to make an appointment before heading over. For boots, it’s best to try on their selection in person or bring a well-loved pair of your own and have them revamped, ‘Love Berry’ Style.

Matt Jungblut

Contact: Brian and Kaori Jacoby Address: 6-24 Sagata Honmachi, Hatsukaichi-shi silent.expression@me.com 090-9462-4625 https://www.facebook.com/gizmoscollection/

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ART

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

End of year holidays: 12/27 to 1/1

End of year holidays: 12/26 to 1/1

End of year holidays: 12/29 to 1/2

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a

Works by Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more great

sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the

large collection of Japanese nihonga painting, traditional

modern European painters in this small, but perfectly

museum that can be viewed for free. Map C p.31

Asian art crafts and 1920s and 1930s art. Map A p.30 13

formed museum near Hiroshima Castle. Map C p.31 11

10:00-17:00 Admission to the collection exhibition: Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the permanent collection Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the general exhibition: Adult

¥370, College students ¥270, High school students, seniors

¥510, College students ¥310, High school students and

¥1000, Seniors ¥500, College & high school students ¥500,

¥170, Junior High School and younger free.

younger free.

Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200

082-264-1121 https://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections. Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art and Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum open everyday during special exhibitions.

EXHIBITIONS

Nanzan Shimizu: The Master of Modern Metalwork

Anno’s Picture book telling stories

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

January 6-February 12 / Adult ¥1100, High school & college

October 22-December 11 / Adult ¥1200, College/High school

¥700, Elementary & Junior high school ¥400

from Hiroshima

Vase with design of landscape Nanzan Shimizu, 1928, Kiyomizu Sannenzaka Museum Collection

¥900, Junior high school and younger ¥500 M.C. Escher, the Master of Trompe L’oeil : Mysterious World of Prints Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum Nov 11-Dec 25 / Adult ¥1200, College/High school ¥800,

Reptiles M.C. Escher 1943 © Escher Holding B.V.-Baarn-the Netherlands

Junior high school and younger ¥400

Gallery G Map A p.30 5 Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and artisans. 082-211-3260 Masterpieces from Musée des Beaux-Arts, Reims Hiroshima Museum of Art Feb 11-Mar 26 / Adult: ¥1300, High school & college ¥1000, Elementary & Junior high school ¥600 / Includes admission

“Fairest Flowers” by Pierre-Joseph Redouté

to the general exhibition of modern European art.

Hiroshima Museum of Art December 17-February 5 / Adult ¥1200, High school & college ¥900, Elementary & Junior high school ¥500 / Includes admission to the general exhibition of modern

Tiger Tateishi and Yuichi Yokoyama Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Oct 28-Jan 22, 2017 / Adult ¥1030 College ¥720 High school

Duel, 1995 Courtesy of URANO ©Yuichi Yokoyama

& seniors [+65] ¥510 Junior high school and younger free

Rosa hemisphaerica (Fairest Flowers, 1827-33) The Connoisseurs Collection Tokyo

European art. The World is Strange! The Manga and Paintings of

L’ Avenue de l’Opéra ou Place du Théâtre Français Camille Pissarro 1898, Reims, Musée des Beaux-Arts ©MBA Reims 2015/Christian Devleeschauwer.

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum The 63rd Japan Traditional Kogei - Art Crafts Exhibition Feb 23-Mar 12. Includes admission to the general collection

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Mitaki Temple

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ONAGANISHI

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Ake

ae-d

-dori

KOJINMACHI

dan

AWACHO

ENKOBASHICHO

a kog

Momiji Bank

Enkobashi-cho

bas Enko

Kyobashi

H H Kanayama-cho Hiroshima Bank

MATSUBARACHO

EBISUCHO

Hiroshima Bank

Ekim

Ebisu-cho

ukoshi

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO

WAKAKUSACHO

NOBORICHO PARK

a-do

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO

utsu

-d

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

Noboricho Primary School

TEPPOCHO

NCHI

ori

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

SHINKANSEN

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

Haku shim a-do

uji le

ebas

Saka

Heiw

Noboricho Junior High School

Onaga Primary School

Hiroshima Bank

Shukkeien-mae

ONAGAMACHI

Katei Saibansho-mae

Codomolive 3

F GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

DANBARAHINODE

/29

5 5

Shukkeien-mae

station area Jogakuin Junior High School

Jogakuin High School

Jogakuin-mae

KAMINOBORICHO

ri hima -do

TEPPOCHO

ashi

Saka

Hiroshima Bank

SHINKANSEN

OSUGACHO ho

-d

WAKAKUSACHO

H 17

3 Hotel Flex 1 43 Quarante-trois

ATAGOMAC

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

H Noboricho Primary School

-d

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

Hiroshima Bank

HIGA

MATSUBARACHO

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

Haku s

KAMIOSUGACHO

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

Hana Hostel ENKOBASHICHO 2

NOBORICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

Inarioh

ashi

YAGENBORI Tate-machi i-dor

PARCO SHINKAN

ALICE GARDEN

ori

ri do aam jiy Hi

Bourbon 4 Square

Vegan Cafe Hijiyamabashi

bas

New King 11

9 Lumière 5 Centre Point

Conami 4Danbara Shopping Center

Micks 9

DANBARAYAMAS

DANBARAMINAMI

Choi Choi Ya 2

BBB

H 2

5 Daiichi Gekijo

BILLY THE KID

19 Youin 21 6 Hallelujah

Bar Edge

namiki / nagarekawa area

Bon Voyage Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

H H

ae-d

DON 1 QUIJOTTE

Chuo-dori

iya

Namiki-dori

Koba

Escalator 9

6 i Washington Hotel

Tropical Bar Revolución 13

Hij H

Merchant of Venice Sky Walk

Bar Parque 2

FUKUROMACHI PARK

DAN

Hijiyamashita 11 Super Supperclub 10 Molly Mallone’s

3 H

30\

H H

-d o

MACHI

Butsudan-dori

SHINTENCHI PARK

Kinzagai-dori

OKONOMI MURA

uru

MINA

HIJIYAMA PARK

Yagenbori-dori

nbor

Takeya Primary School

DANBARA

TSURUMICHO Fuji Grand Shopping Center

4 Yamatoya

KIRIN BEER

PARCO HONKAN

HIROSHIMA BANK

shigaw

HIRATSUKA PARK Kinzagai-dori

Hondori

Danbara-1chome

Nagarekawa-dori

wa-d

reka

Naga

Yage

Kanayama-cho

MOMIJI BANK

MATSUGAWA PARK

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima Ebisu sh Ebisu-dori 2 Popeye Shrine ro Hi Ebisu-dori Ebisu-dori

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO 3 Cinetwin Hondori 8 Kurashiki Coffee

Ebisu-cho

Kyoba

TANAKAMACHI

h ais

MITSUKOSHI LABI

YAYOICHO

MATOBACHO

6 Hatchoza FUKUYA

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

-d

/ Densha-dori HAioi-dori Yanagibas hi

Ekim

ori

KANAYAMACHO

NISHIKANIYA

Hiroshima Mall

INARIMACHI

KAWACHO

TENCHI

CHI

Matoba-cho

RIKAWACHO

Inari-machi

kog

Hiroshima Bank

Momiji Bank

NISHIKOJINMACHI

EBISUCHO

HIGASHIKOJINMACHI

H H Kanayama-cho

Mitsukoshi abi

bas

jin

b Ake 7

Kyobashi

-do

ono

KOJINMACHI

Ebisu-cho

Enko

Hatchobori

a-do

KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO

NOBORICHO PARK

Enkobashi-cho

ashi

B Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

11 Tennis courts

Legal Administration Office

n-do

Jona

YMCA

Momiji Bank

Chokakuji Temple

Jogakuin-mae

KYUGUCHIMON PARK Chuo Police Station Prefectural Office East Office

Tokyu Hands

Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

Jogakuin High School

Shukkeien-mae

Jogakuin Junior High School

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

KAMINOBORICHO

KANAYAMACHO

YAYOICHO

ebas

Saka

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

do ri

OSUGACHO

Jo ho ku -

Hijiyamashita

Fukuya

Hirosh Ban

Mato

MATOBACH

MATSUGAWA PARK

Inari-machi

KYOBASHICHO

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Kyobashi

shi

Inarioha

INARIMACHI

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima sh ro

H Yanagibashi

iba

shigaw

Hijiyamabashi

rum

Kyoba

HIRATSUKA PARK

shi

Ts u

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

Hiroshima Bank

H H Kanayama-cho

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

HASHIMOTOCHO

Noboricho Primary School Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO

TEPPOCHO

Takeya Primary School

TSURUMICHO

TANAKAMACHI

i or -d ae

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

Momiji Bank

NOBORICHO PARK

Ebisu-cho

Hatchobori

Mitsukoshi Labi

dori

De17 nsha -

HATCHOBORI

EBISUCHO HORIKAWACHO

-dor i

bisu

Fukuya

i-do ri /

Tate-machi Aio

de)

arca

TATEMACHI

Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

Kencho-mae Prefectural Office (Kencho)

Kamiya-cho Higashi

1 3

KAMIYACHO

Hiroshima Bank

Bus Center (3F)

SOGO

Mizuho Bank

Kamiya-cho Nishi Rijo Kaikan16 Sun Mall Sumitomo Mitsui Bank

2 HANOVER PARK

FORMER BASEBALL STADIUM SITE

6 4

OTEMACHI 1 Hondori

Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo r UFJ Bank 4F

red

i (co ve

HONDORI

ash

Outdoor 1 Family Pool Open July-August

Aioib ashi

Genbaku Dome-mae Hiroshima Naka Post Office

u oyas Mot shi ba

5 4

NAKAMACHI

oro

er-d

met

14 Ek

MIKAWACHO NAGAREKAWACHO

aku

FUJIMICHO

d/ Hy

ce B lv

/ Pe a

Buts PARCO Hiroshima uda n-do Information ri Former ALICE SHINTENCHI Plaza 3 4 Bank of FUKUROMACHI GARDEN Japan Don Fukuromachi FUKUROMACHI Fukuro-machi YAGENBORI Quijotte SHINTENCHI Primary PARK PARK School H H

Crystal

10 Plaza

dori

a-o-

Heiw

KOMACHI

1 Dormy inn Chuden-mae

Shirakami Shrine

OTEMACHI PARK 1

wab

PARK

TOKAICHIMACHI

HONKAWACHO

Honkawa-cho

PEACE PARK

a-oh ashi

Heiw

Kokutaiji High School

Hei

HIROSEMACHI

Tokaichi-machi

12 16

Honkawa Primary School

HONKAWA PARK

Ho nk bas awa hi

Tsuchiya Hospital

8 19

OTEMACHI

SEIBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

OTEMACHI PARK 2

Hiroshima Chuo Post Office Naka Ward Office

Kokutaiji Junior High School

TAKARAMACHI

Hij iya

ma ba

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

DOBASHICHO

HONKAWACHO

NEKOYACHO

J-Hoppers

NAKAJIMACHO

4 Ikawa Ryokan

Bunka Koryu Kaikan

Aster Plaza

KAKOMACHI

Shiyakusho mae

KOKUTAIJI PARK

/31

ENOMACHI

ENOMACHI PARK

SAKAIMACHI Koami-cho Dobashi

KOAMICHO

2 KAWARAMACHI

Na Kan kajima zakib ash i

Funairi-machi

Kozaki Primary School Nakajima Primary School

Otemachi Commercial High School

Hiroshima City Hall

TAKEYACHO

ori

ae-d

a-do shim Haku ori

Shin-sum iyoshi bashi

HIGASHI SENDA PARK

Naga

o- ima GetHiroshima / Winter 2016 ha e

Chuo

wa-d

reka

nbor

Yage

ori

iki-d Nam

a) Ta Shopkanobas hi ping Stre et

Takanobashi

dori

jiy

i-dor

KAMISHINONOMECHO

SAKI

Ekim

dori

i-dor mach Tera

shiba shi

hi ibas Meij

Jizo-

Sky Walk Escalator

HIJIYAMA

-dori

NBARAHINODE

UNAIRIMACHI

3 Sum iyo

-do Ozu

AMIKANIYA

awa

Geibi Line

Rijo-

COSTCO

MAZDA ZOOM ZOOM STADIUM

yasug

Ky a( aw

nk Ho

tag

nsen

ONAGAHIGASHI ONAGANISHI

u-o

Shinka

Sanyo

ri do o-

ASHIKANIYACHO

on eb Ak

CHI

Onaga Primary School

Moto

Lin ain oM ny Sa

city center

onmachi

Junior High School

List of places CULTURE

PL ACES FE ATURED IN THIS ISSUE

A-Bomb Dome - Map C [B-1]

Vegan Cafe - Map B

43 Quarante-trois - Map A

p.47

Children’s museum - Map C [A-2]

Viale - Map C [B-2]

Bar Parque - Map B

p.44

Cinetwin Hondori - Map B

Warung Matahari - Map C [B-3]

Codomolive - Map p.29 [E-4]

p.47

Former Bank of Japan - Map C [B-2]

Youin - Map B

Conami - Map B

p.45

Gallery G - Map A

Daiichi Gekijo - Map B

p.50

Hatchoza Cinema - Map B

Fleur Bleue - Map C [C-3]

p.38

Hiroshima City International House - Map A

Hitoshi - map C [C-3]

p.42

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map C [D-3]

Kurashiki Coffee - Map B

p.46

Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map C [B-2]

Bar Edge - Map B

Lumière - Map B

p.45

Hiroshima International Center - Map C [B-2]

BBB - Map B

O-dashi no kaori - Map C [C-1]

p.46

Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map C [B-1]

Bon Voyage - Map B

Super Supper Club - Map B

p.47

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map C [B-2]

Bourbon Square - Map B

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map A

Centre Point - Map B

International Exchange Lounge - Map C [A-2]

Hallelujah Kitchen & Bar - Map B

Orizuru Tower - Map C [B-1]

Kemby’s - Map C [B-2]

Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center - Map C [B-1]

Koba - Map B

Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map C [B-3]

Merchant of Venice - Map B

Shimizu Gekijo - Map A

Molly Malone’s - Map B

Shukkeien Garden - Map A

New King - Map B

Organ-za - Map C [A-1]

Tropical Bar Revolución - Map B

NIGHTLIFE

Map A: p.30 Map B: p.30 Map C: p.31

ACCOMMODATION 1

Dormy Inn - Map C [B-2]

Hana Hostel - Map A

Hotel Flex - Map A

Ikawa Ryokan - Map C [A-2]

Don Quijotte - Map B

J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C [A-2]

Hiroshima Mono Koto Store - Map C [C-2]

Washington Hotel - Map B

Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

Yamatoya - Map B

SHOPPING

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS RESTAUR ANT & CAFES HE ALTH & BE AUT Y • Police 110

Artcafe ELK - Map C [B-1]

Choi Choi Ya - Map B

Family Pool - Map C [B-1] (Open July - August)

• Fire and Ambulance 119

Graffity Mexican Diner - Map C [C-2]

Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map C [B-1]

• 24 Hour Hiroshima Hospital Information in English Freedial

Kanak - Map C [B-2]

Higashi-ku Sports Center (Big Wave) - Map p.28 [D-1]

Kanawa (Kaki-fune) - Map C [B-2]

Laff Hair Design - Map C [B-1]

Kanawa ASSE - Map A

M’n Chiropractic - Map A

Kanawa Kaki Meian - Map A

Square Salon - Map C [B-1]

Kissui - Map C [B-2]

082-247-9715

Micks - Map B

09:00-19:00 (April-September)

Miyabi-tei - Map A

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki - Map A

Nagataya Okonomiyaki - Map C [B-1]

Otis! - Map C [A-2]

Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro - Map C [C-3]

Popeye Media Cafe Ebisu-dori - Map B

• Immigration Information Center 0570-013-904

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map A

Popeye Media Cafe Hondori - Map C [C-1]

• Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreign Citizens

Tokaichi Apartment - Map C [A-1]

Teppan-ya Tyson - Map A

32\

0120-169912 • 24h Emergency pediatric hospital (Funairi Byoin) 082-232-6195 • Multilingual Interpreting Service (Trio-phone)

09:00-18:00 (October-March)

INTERNE T

• TELL English counseling service 03-5774-0992 (09:00-23:00) • Resident Consultation & Interpreting Service 082-241-5010

082-228-5792

Beautifully presented Japanese kaiseki cuisine and Italian fare with commanding views of Peace Memorial Park on the 15th floor of the Sunroute Hotel.

吉水 KISSUI

VIALE Original interpretations of Italian standards with an excellent wine

Multi-course traditional kaiseki lunches and dinners using the fresh-

selection.

est seasonal ingredients served in a relaxed atmosphere.

6 course dinner ¥4500

GetHiroshima Special Kaiseki Dinner ¥4500

Bagna càuda, antipasto selection, pasta, meat or fish, dessert, bread & tea or coffee.

Appetizer, sashimi, simmered dish, grilled dish, beef, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, wagashi dessert.

Set lunches from ¥1800, Antipasti, salad, pasta, bread, tea or coffee (dessert buffet +¥380)

Lunch Kissui-gozen Kaiseki ¥2800 (Weekdays), Seasonal Kaiseki ¥3900

Fantastic value!

Lunch 11:30-15:00 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 17:00-21:30 (L.O. 20:00) closed 2 irregular days a month

A la carte also available at dinner / Credit cards accepted / Non-smoking

Credit cards accepted / Tables, tatami and horigotatsu seating / Non-smoking

• Prices include all taxes and service. • Images are for illustration purposes, actual product may differ. 15F Sunroute Hotel, 3-3-1 Otemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, Map C p.31 [B-2] / Kissui 8 082-249-5657 / Viale 19 082-244-3069

Excellent Japanese cuisine served in stylish, smoke-free surroundings with traditional Japanese motifs. Our English speaking staff are ready to welcome you on the 7th floor of the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel.

• Luxurious sushi bar • Intimate Teppanyaki grill • Spectacular Kaiseki meals • Relaxing bar perfect for pre-dinner cocktails or a nightcap • Private rooms for groups large and small,

Miyabi-tei

Lunch Set Menus

Dinner Set Menus

Lunch 11:30-14:00 (L.O.)

Sushi ¥2,057~

Sushi ¥5,000~

Dinner 17:00-21:00 (L.O.)

Teppanyaki ¥3,500~*

Teppanyaki ¥8,800~

Kaiseki ¥2,571~

Kaiseki ¥5,657~

Smoke-free Miyabi-tei Bar 17:00-23:30 (L.O.)

Delicious a la carte options also available. Reservation / Tel: 082-262-7111 / map A p.30

HALLELUJAH KI TC HE N

B AR

www.facebook.com/hallelujah.kitchen.bar

Have a drink and some light food while enjoying the reggae, ska and rocksteady soundtrack or enjoy a full dinner. Western and Japanese food (fish, meat, salads, pasta etc is available). The staff don’t speak a lot of English, but are very friendly and welcoming and there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself laughing with them until well into the early hours. 18:00-05:00 Closed on Monday | Tel: 082-247-0199 Nakagawa bldg II 1F, 8-11, Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku, Map B p. 30 6

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals. Curry lunch sets from ¥780 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian, vegan and Halal food. A la carte Kids sets ¥500 ~¥590 (ex tax) Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map C p. 31 [B-2] 4

English Menu

available at no extra charge.

* Weekday only

Dormy Inn

Hana Hostel

On Peace Blvd, very close to Peace Memorial Park. Free WiFi in all rooms. Free washing machine. Great traditional bath. Single: ¥6500, Double: ¥9000, Twin: ¥11,500 082-240-1177 map C p.31 [B-2] 1

Clean and friendly. 3min from Hiroshima Sta. Common lounge and kitchen. Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private twin rooms from ¥3200/person. No curfew, Free LAN/WiFi, Rental cycles 082-263-2980 map A p.30 2

Hotel Flex

Ikawa Ryokan

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles from ¥11,555 The upper floor suites are really cool. 082-223-1000 map A p.30 3

Cozy, home-like atmosphere. Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry. S from ¥5940 / Twin ¥9720 / Tr ¥14,580 Quad ¥17,280 / Breakfast ¥756 www.ikawaryokan.net info@ikawaryokan.net 082-231-5058 map C p.31 [A-2] 4

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

Washington Hotel

Friendly base in an interesting neighborhood near Peace Park. No curfew, Kitchen, Rental cycles Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private rooms from ¥3000/person map C p.31 [A-2] 5 082-233-1360

Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima. All rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. WiFi in all rooms http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 082-553-2222 map B p.30 6

Artcafe ELK

Cafe Lente

2nd floor cafe near Peace Park. Good sandwich lunches, drinks, vegetarian menu. Ask about vegan and gluten free dishes and their vegan desserts. International exchange spot. 10:30-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 082-247-4443 map C p.31 [B-1] 2F 1

Escape the Miyajima crowds at this beautifully designed cafe. Wooden terrace. Great view of the floating torii gate, especially after dark. From 11:00 Located along the water inlet between Kiyomori Shrine & Miyajima Aquarium.

Choi Choi Ya

Graffity Mexican Diner

Shiho serves Hiroshima tsukemen, yaki-ramen (fish stock base), side dishes and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere. Eat, drink or both at the counter or a street-side table. Can get quite lively late at night. 20:30-03:00 Closed Sundays & hols that fall on a weekday map B p.30 2

A spacious family-run diner serving homemade Mexican and US style foods. Great fresh salsa, highly rated margaritas and a good selection of tequila. 11:30-14:00 (L.O. 13:20), 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map C p.31 [C-2] 4F 3

Micks

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki

Lively and friendly izakaya. Casual atmosphere with good food, Japanese & western. Great selection of local sake. Sun-Thur 18:00-3:00, Fri, Sat, days before Hols 18:00-5:00 Closed Wed 082-249-6231 map B p.30 9

Traditional and creative Hiroshima Okonomiyaki and a wide range of grilled teppan dishes on the 6th Floor of the Full Focus building across from Hiroshima JR Station. Local oysters, sake and ice cold draft beer too. 10:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 082-568-7850 map A p.30 6F 11

Nagataya

Otis!

Great okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from Peace Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs. Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.) Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.) Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 (L.O) (Closed Tue & 4th Wed) 082-247-0787 map C p.31 [B-1] 12

Tex Mex and home-cooked food for meat eaters & vegetarians. Their vegetarian menu is one of the best in the city & includes vegan and gluten free dishes. Kids very welcome. Eclectic BGM & live music. 11:30-22:30 (L.0.) 082-249-3885 map C p.31 [A-2] 13

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki

Young grill master Kotaro serves delicious seasonal dishes & drinks just off Peace Blvd.

17:00-02:00 (L.O. 01:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-249-1953 map C p.31 [C-3] 2F 14

Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshima’s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station. 11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map A p.30 2F 15

Tokaichi Apartment Quirky, smoke free cafe in Tokaichi with some very interesting seating options. ¥850 set lunches served until 16:30. 11:30-23:00 (lunch L.O. 16:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-231-9865 map C p.31 [A-1] 1F 16

Vegan Cafe

Teppan-ya Tyson Tasty okonomiyaki, teppan dishes and a fun vibe in Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae Hiroba near Hiroshima Station. Mitsumura-san trained under okonomiyaki master Lopez, so look for double yolks and try the jalapeño toppings. 11:00-23:00 082-568-7838 map A p.30 6F 17

100% vegan food made with fresh local vegetables and all natural seasonings. Our multi-dish set meals are heavily influenced by traditional Buddhist temple cuisine. 12:00-17:00 Tuesday-Sunday. Reservations recommended. 082-247-8529, map B p.30 3F 18

Warung Matahari

Bar Edge

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna. Vegetarian and Halal friendly. If you like it really spicy, ask Surasna to let you have it! 17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-240-2082 map C p.31 [B-3] 20

Small underground club with a good sound system.

082-248-8146 map B p.30 1

Youin 陽陰 washoku bar

Cheerful and mild-mannered “Take” Shimosaka has created something quite remarkable. Youin is relaxed enough to just enjoy a few drinks, but also offers some quite excellent Japanese cuisine which would be crazy to pass up. Take’s skill is immediately evident on presentation of the meticulously prepared Kyo-ryori dishes of his native Kyoto and modern washoku. The flavors he draws out of his seasonal and all-natural ingredients are simply exceptional. 082-249-7129 / 2F Nakagawa Bldg, 8-11 Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku 20:00-05:00 Map B p. 30 21 facebook.com/youin.hiroshima

BBB

Bon Voyage

All teams welcome at Ayaka’s “Baseball Baka Bar”. Ballgames on screen, an original cocktail for every team, OK to BYO food, and a $30 all night all-you-drink deal. The menu is in US$ so check her daily rate for ¥ prices! 20:00-03:00 (from 17:30 if there’s a night game) Closed Monday, 082-541-7288 map B p.30 2

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too. Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map B p.30 3F 3

Bourbon Square Relaxed counter bar near Shintenchi Park. Great selection of bourbon, whiskies and fresh fruit cocktails. Plus some of the best tasting draft beer in the drinking district. Mon-Sat 18:00-03:00, Sun 18:00-24:00 082-242-3668, map B p.30 2F 4

Centre Point Nagarekawa bar catering to a late night crowd that prides itself on its whiskey selection. DJs spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info. Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map B p.30 5F 5

Kemby’s www.facebook.com/kembyshiroshima High quality food in a casual atmosphere. Kemby’s has all the bases covered with tapas, pasta,Tex Mex, gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers. Owner Prakash prides himself on his wine list and is happy to help you make the right choice. The full drink menu includes international beers on draft and a selection of imported craft beers. Happy hours 17:30-00:30 selected alcohol ¥200 off Monday-Thursday 11:30-00:30, Friday & Saturday 11:30-01:00, Sunday 11:30-23:00 / 082-249-6201 map C p.31 [B-2] 7

Koba

Merchant of Venice

Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food too.

Chilled out drinking space with subdued lighting offering some interesting Japanese themed cocktails at the bar counter or in the darts lounge. 19:00-04:00 (L.O. 03:30) Closed Mondays 082-240-1155 map B p.30 3F 9

18-00-01:30 (L.O), Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map B p.26 3F 8

New King Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map B p.30 2F 11

Organ-za Molly Malone’s

www.facebook.com/mollymaloneshiroshima Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub. Great beer, great food, great service. The place to watch Premier League soccer. Tues-Thurs 17:00~01:00 / Fri 17:00~02:00 / Sat 11:30~02:00 / Sun + Nat Hol 11:30~24:00 / Closed Monday / 082-244-2554 map B p.30 4F 10

Bohemian queen, Goto Izumi's avant-garde center of operations. Great decor, food, drink and bizarre stage shows. Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map C p.31 [A-1] 2F 12

Tropical Bar Revolución

Don Quijote

Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

Huge discount store open every day until 5am. Snacks, groceries, alcohol, medicines, souvenirs, cosmetics, electronics, costumes, household & sporting goods; you name it, they have it!

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map B p.30 8F 13

10:00-05:00 082-543-6711 map B p.30 1

Hiroshima Mono Koto Store

Outsider Book Nook/Global Lounge

Unique, high quality products from upcoming Japanese artisans and creators at reasonable prices. Feel free to browse or order a drink from the coffee bar. http://www.monokotostore.com/ 11:00-20:00 Closed Thursdays 082-545-1115 map C p.31 [C-2] 2

TAX FREE 8%

Used English books to buy or exchange. Internet, cafe & meeting place. Lunches daily, bar from 19:00 Fri & Sat. Mon-Thurs 12:00-21:00 Fri & Sat 12:00-23:00, Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map C p.31 [C-1] 3 1

Yamatoya

Laff Hair Design

Produced in limited quantities yet reasonably priced, a bottle of Hiroshima's top quality local Japanese sake makes for a great souvenir. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/ 09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map B p.30 4

Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community. 082-504-7636 (English line) map C p.31 [B-1] 4

M’n Chiropractic Dr. Naoki Morimoto trained in the US, speaks English and is highly recommended by one of our writers. Consultation & treatment ¥5000/ session http://mnchiropractic.jp/ Appointments by reservation only 080-962-5091 map A p.30 3F 5 Wed afternoon,Thurs, Sun & Nat Hols

Square Salon (Nail Salon) Japanese style nail care and nail art near Peace Memorial Park. Reservation by e-mail (English is OK): info@nail-square.com or come directly to the shop. Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30, Sun, Hols 10:00-18:30, closed Tue map C p.30 [B-1]3F 6

Media Cafe Popeye Hondori / Ebisu-dori So much more than Internet in 2 city centre locations Internet access (PC), Free soft drinks, Shower rooms available (additional charge), Overnight stay OK Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week Popeye Ebisu-dori map B p.30 2 Popeye Hondori map C p.31 [C-2] 3

stone of love and peace connects

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the caribbean to hiroshima Fleur Bleue is a small salon on Jizodori, just off Peace Boulevard, that sells beautiful Larimar stones, imported direct from the Dominican Republic, to people from all over Japan. A series of serendipitous events led proprietor, Hikari Takatsuki to make it her mission to share the beauty of these unique stones, which, appropriately, are closely associated with love, peace and friendship.

Larimar is only found in the southwestern region of the Dominican Republic and came to the world’s attention after its re-discovery by a local man, Miguel Méndez, in 1974. The name, Larimar, is a combination of the first letters of Méndez’s daughter’s name, Larissa, and the Spanish word for the sea, ‘mar’. Its color is indeed reminiscent of Caribbean waters and some have even suggested the stones are remnants of Atlantis. Hiroshima’s pro baseball team, the Hiroshima Carp, has had a baseball academy in the Dominican Republic since 1990, but when Takatsuki started to investigate she discovered another connection. After a visit to Hiroshima, the wife of Miguel Méndez had become a passionate supporter of the international project to cultivate trees from seeds harvested from the trees that survived the A-bombing. It seemed like the universe was trying to tell Takatsuki something, and, about 7 years ago, she answered by deciding to bring ‘the stone of love and peace’ to ‘the city of peace’. High quality, blue Larimar is scarce and fakes, as well as poor quality specimens that have been coated and dyed are common. Feeling honor-bound to do her utmost to ensure her customers could be confident that they get the genuine article, Takatsuki has all her high quality pieces tested. Most of Fleur Bleue’s finished pieces come with a certificate of authenticity, so buyers can have faith in their investment. GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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Takatsuki-san feels a strong connection to the stones that goes beyond appreciation of their beauty. In an age when city-dwellers are cut off from nature by pavestones and tarmac, she sees stones and crystals as a means of reconnecting with the earth. The arrival of each new batch of Larimar from the Dominican Republic is a source of great excitement and the stones are treated as honored guests. Takatsuki first takes them to a local Izumo Shrine, traditionally the shrine of personal relationships, where they undergo a purification rite. Then, back at her salon, before the stones take their place in the showcase, they are the special guests at a ‘Yokoso party’, where Takatsuki and her clients bid the stones a hearty ‘Welcome to Japan’ while waving Japanese and Dominican flags. Takatsuki tells me stories of her customers who say that their lives took fortuitous turns after Larimar came into their lives. She prefaces each tale with, “Not everyone believes in this”, but it’s clear she feels that contact with stones such as Larimar can help put people in a state of mind that allows for good things to happen. Fleur Bleue also offers Larimar therapy sessions, which, sound, if nothing else, like a very relaxing way to spend some time. Whether you are a believer in the power of the stones or not, they have an incredible natural beauty and would make a wonderful gift for someone special or a fitting memento of your time in the city of peace. Fleur Bleue is one of Japan’s foremost Larimar dealers with a large selection of stones that range in price from two thousand yen to several hundred thousand yen. Stones can be purchased in their natural state or polished, both with or without adornment. Browsers interested in viewing the stones are very welcome.

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http://fleur-bleue.jp/ https://www.facebook.com/Fleur.Bleue.4F/ Tel. 082-259-3535 4F 8-5 Komachi, Naka-ku, map C p.31 [C-3] 6 11:00-18:00, close Mon, Tue

GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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eating the stars Words: Matt Jungblutt / Photos: Matt Jungblutt & Judith Cotelle

“How would you like to eat at all of Hiroshima’s Michelin star restaurants? You’d be the Michelin Man.” Body shape issues aside, I quickly accepted GetHiroshima’s challenge. My daughter once said, someday she’d like to eat the moon. Me? I’ll eat the stars.

While Hiroshima has plenty of good sushi, finding world class sushi was becoming a challenge. So I was excited to eat dinner at Hitoshi. The meal was amazing, easily the best Japanese meal we’ve had in Hiroshima, though it was not quite the ‘sushi meal’ that we had imagined. We sat down for dinner and, after choosing our sake, a good sashimi tray was served on some beautiful Bizenyaki pottery. Then a delicious seasonal steamed fish, tofu, and vegetable dish was served, and I thought, “Well, this is different.” Two outstanding dishes later, we still had not had any sushi and I was pleased, yet confused. My Japanese partner was equally satisfied and perplexed. Time to ask some questions, and we found out that the master was originally from Kyushu and worked many years in Fukuoka’s acclaimed Yamanaka restaurant. Throughout the meal we could see our chef’s take on several dishes that certainly had a connection with where he learned his skills. I kept noting how many of the dishes being presented were similar to what you might find at an enkai dinner party, but his were so much better and had textures and depth of taste that could never be found in those pre-prepared meals made by the dozens by kitchen staff just following directions. In fact,

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these dishes were amazing! Our favorite was a mixed presentation including such varied elements as smoked cheeses, perfectly prepared sweet potatoes and tofu, a persimmon aged in miso for a month, jellied vegetables, and more, offered on a plate reminiscent of European petit fours, right in the middle of the meal. And then the sushi started coming: Hitoshi’s signature ika squid, topped with a yuzu salt, followed by a deep, oily kohada shad, then a bowl sushi of ikura eggs, uni urchin, and seaweed, leading to a pair of vegetable sushi, and the inevitable egg tamago sushi - which may have been the best cooked egg I have ever eaten. Then a wonderfully rich miso soup followed by a nice homemade ice-cream, mint and nut dessert which completed our dining experience. More questions for the chef, which he answered graciously and in great detail. In the evening, he shows his culinary prowess by mixing sushi with other dishes, offering a chef’s tasting menu featuring foods that he feels pair well, and can be adjusted upon request. If you want a more straight forward sushi experience, he will do that as well, at a traditional sit down lunch or surprisingly, as the best bento lunch in Hiroshima.

So, I returned the next week for lunch. This meal was much more the high end sushi experience I had originally expected: ten pieces of excellently prepared sushi, using the chef’s special rice seasoned with a mix including black vinegar, which gives the loosely packed rice a slightly darker color and marvelous flavor. Some of the previous meal’s sushi made welcome repeat appearances, such as the bowl sushi and the ika. The new pieces included grilled otoro maguro tuna with a slightly smoky flavor and piece of raw ebi shrimp, from which the head was removed, quick fried, and served crunchy with two different flavored salts. This was the sushi experience I had been anticipating the previous visit - skillfully made with top quality ingredients using unique and familiar blends that only someone with true expertise could pull off. Even better, it was less than half the price of the dinner. The genial hostess (affectionately known as Mama) also mentioned that they prepare take-out bento boxes for folks who call in advance. One evening, we gave this a try, and an hour later we were in our living room, sharing the best take out meal in Hiroshima with our four year old, who normally would not get to eat such splendid sushi. Mama suggests bringing a bento on the Shinkansen - very tempting to make my fellow passengers jealous.

If you are traveling through Japan and want superior sushi at a price that no top place in Tokyo will match, you should have lunch at Hitoshi. Though Chef Hitoshi’s dinners might not be everyone’s idea of sushi, it was the finest Japanese meal we’ve had locally. Combined with both an outstanding lunch, and the option to take the excellent food with you, Hitoshi is a versatile option for an exceptional meal, whether for the afternoon, a special night, or a quiet evening at home. Hitoshi ひと志 7-26 Komachi, Naka-ku - Map C p.31 [C-3] 7 (50 meters off Jizo-dori just off of Heiwa-dori) 082-247-1787

Sound Extremely quiet. No piped in music, the focus is on conversation and the food. Often the only sound you’ll hear is the Master’s voice describing the food. Recommended dishes Chef’s omakase in the evening. The ¥5000 lunch. Or a take out bento for a picnic or the shinkansen. Note: Hitoshi occasionally serves whale, so let them know in advance if you don’t want this. Drinks and Wine Very good selection of sake and shochu. Limited bottled beer. Sparkling water and other limited beverages for drivers and nondrinkers.

Rating* Atmosphere Clean, bright, light colored wood, with several nice pieces of pottery on display. Usual high end sushi counter setup. One small table away from the counter and one private dining room for a small group. Not a place in which children or loud groups would be comfortable. Master very knowledgeable and open to questions; the hostess, his wife, is very warm and welcoming. Ultra modern restroom with high end amenities. No smoking.

Price Dinner starts at ¥12,500 for chef’s menu. Lunches are ¥3000 and ¥5000. Tax is extra. Open Lunch 12:00-14:00. Dinner 18:00-21:00. Closed Sundays and most national holidays. Accessibility Street level, no major obstacles or stairs, restroom is narrow with a step, so that area is not wheelchair accessible. *What the Moons Mean Ratings range from one to five moons. One moon is awful or some major problem. Two moons, satisfactory, but not worth a long trip. Three moons, very good, worth making an

Language While the staff do not speak English, they do have some materials to help you understand your meal, including a book with pictures of the various fish that are served. Both Chef and Mama will make you feel welcome and comfortable despite the language barrier.

effort to eat there. Four moons, excellent, well worth making reservations far in advance. Five moons, life changing.

GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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Winter Wining

(And A Little Dining) Words / Photos: Judith Cotelle

What’s better in the middle of winter than treating yourself to a good glass of wine and some cheese in a cozy bodega? Wine drinking, which was once seen as a somewhat snobbish activity, largely reserved for the ladies, is now all the rage and wine bars have become ubiquitous in cities across Japan. The non-connoisseur can safely rely upon the competent sommeliers and wine lovers who work in these places. There are now so many wine bars in Hiroshima that you can be sure that there is at least one that suits you in terms of atmosphere, price, specialties and food options. Here are three of my favorites where I can be found quite regularly.

BAR PARQUE バルパルケ Casual Spanish bar & organic wine Bar Parque is a Spanish wine and tapas bar with a very casual atmosphere. Near Fukuromachi Park, it’s easy to find; just look for its tables made out of wooden barrels on its small terrace. Once inside, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Barcelona. Oka-san, the young, laid back owner, was inspired by his trips to the Catalonian capital and the bar is filled with warm colors. The walls are covered with small burgundy tiles on one side and wine cases on the other. Food is displayed in a glass cabinet and a big leg of Serrano ham sits on the counter. The tapas menu, written on a blackboard, includes patatas bravas, ajillo, tortilla and fried calamari, amongst other favorites. The 2 most popular dishes are the pan con tomate and the juicy meat balls. Sit at the counter or at high wooden tables. Prices are really reasonable: by the glass, most wines are ¥500. The large selection includes a full range of French and organic wines.

BAR PARQUE - map B p.30 2

Wine & Beer CONAMI - map B p.30 4

LUMIÈRE Bar à vin - map B p.30 9

Sumida Bldg 1F, 7-3 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku Tel: 082-249-1880 Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00 Sat, Sun, National holidays 12:00-24:00

Yagenbori 2F, 3-6 Yagenbori, Naka-ku Tel: 082-246-9005 18:00-4:00 Closed Monday

Ito Bldg 1F, 3-16 Yagenbori, Naka-ku Tel: 082-246-7690 18:00-4:00 Closed Tuesday

www.conami-hiroshima.com/conami.html Wine glass: ¥500≤, food: ¥200 - ¥1200 Wine glass: ¥900≤, bottle: ¥5000≤ food: ¥500 - ¥3800

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Charge: ¥300, Wine glass: ¥1000≤, Bottle: ¥4000≤ Cheese: ¥600

WINE & BEER CONAMI Cosy wine bar, European dishes and raclette Sommelier Imazu-san’s passion for “mariage”, the pairing of food with wine, discovered while working in his family’s restaurant, led him to open his own wine bar 9 years ago. Imazu likes to talk with his customers who are mostly middle-aged wine lovers. He explains, for instance, how the taste of a wine can change depending on the shape of the glass. He helps customer better describe their tastes more accurately and prides himself on finding which of his 200 plus bottles is most suited to each customer. Among the small European dishes and large selection of cheeses he serves, the most popular is the plate of French unpasteurized milk raclette, melted in an authentic machine right in front of you. Lighting is very subdued, but warm, and there is a broad counter, a small room with a table and a horigotatsu room for up to 10 people which, with lots of green, burgundy and yellow hues, has an air of Amélie Poulain. Don’t miss the exquisite Amarone: Italian wine made of partially dried grapes.

LUMIÈRE BAR À VIN Classy and quiet wine bar and cheese This place opened 14 years ago to cater specifically for people who want to savor their wine and sample fine cheeses in a calm and relaxed atmosphere while listening to classical music. Although ‘Lumière’ means ‘Light’ in French, the place is quite dark, lit only by small colored candles and a line of industrial lampshades above the long zinc counter. The space is stylish and uncluttered, but still manages to exude a feeling of warmth. You can also sit at a table for four. In the glass cabinets, you’ll find an interesting selection of European cheeses that will be served with fresh seasonal fruits and some bread. On my visit we were recommended a plate of green peppers stuffed with blue cheese and Espelette hot pepper along with toasted apple bread. You won’t find the full list of wines and prices on the blackboard. Takaki-san, the sommelier, prefers to guide his customers with his advice, rather than choose by price alone. Don’t worry, he won’t suggest the most expensive bottles to beginners! GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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eat the day! Local residents share some of their favorite dining spots to keep you covered, morning till night.

breakfast

KURASHIKI COFFEE 倉式珈琲店

by Paul Walsh

Part of the group responsible for St Marc Cafe, purveyors of irresistibly decadent chocolate croissant rolls, Kurashiki Coffee is modelled on Japan’s venerable Showa-era kissaten. That means subdued lighting, jazz, dark brown furniture, chemistry set siphon coffees and mōruningu breakfast sets from 7:30 to 11am. A drink, thick cut toast and salad is ¥594 and “Sandwich Morning” is ¥702. Add half a piece of toast and an egg to any drink for just an extra ¥51. The counter seats along the windows are great for surreptitious people watching and they have a good selection of (Japanese) magazines to browse.

Tel: 082-545-6309 / Opening hours: 07:30-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 2F Hondori Saito Building, 2-11 Hondori, Naka-ku map B p.30 8

lunch

O-DASHI NO KAORI おだしの香り

by Judith Cotelle

A bright and relaxing place with minimalistic decor, O-dashi no Kaori specializes in dashi o-chazuke (rice with one of various toppings over which you pour dashi soup stock). They offer 6 different toppings: grilled onigiri / conger eel, omelet strips / pickled salmon / shrimp, clam, fish cake / salmon flakes, Hiroshima greens / fish cake, Hiroshima greens / cod roe, Hiroshima greens. You can buy just the bowl (¥520~¥700) or the set lunch which includes 2 small side dishes and Japanese pickles (¥700~¥900). I had a seaweed salad and some juicy chicken the 1st time, octopus potato salad and hambāgu the 2nd time. Buy a food ticket at the vending machine on the right as you enter. Healthy, refreshing and it keeps me full until dinner. Tel: 082-222-5505 / 11:30 until sold out Closed Saturday, Sunday and National Holidays Floor-N Bldg 2F, 8-1 Hatchobori, Naka-ku (South side of YMCA), map C p.31 [C-1]

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coffee

43 QUARANTE-TROIS

43 Quarante-Trois is located very close to Hiroshima Station, on the first floor of the FLEX hotel. It has elegant rustic décor. You can choose to sit inside, outside, or in the covered patio area, where you can enjoy the lovely park and river scenes. It is a cozy place to enjoy a cuppa, whether you are alone, with your friends, or with a special someone. The staff is very courteous and the English menu is easy to navigate. The teas are beautiful and flavorful, and the coffee is rich and delicious. Although we thoroughly enjoyed the pain galette (similar to a pancake with a crisp edge) with our cuppa, meals are also served, and look delicious. Tel: 082-511-7370 Opening hours: 07:00-22:00 7-1 Kaminobori-cho, Naka-ku, Map A p.30

CODOMOLIVE

dinner

by Amy Isaacs

by Kismet & Damien Cordova

Everyone has their favorite izakaya secret in town, and Codomolive is ours. Located east of Hijiyama Park in Danbara, Codomolive is tucked away down a narrow corridor. The friendly staff are thrilled to welcome foreigners and will even (gasp!) treat you as a local. English is limited, but there’s one charming, hand-translated menu and daily-rotating specials. Codomolive serves a diverse range of Western and traditional Japanese dishes, often with a creative twist, but always with extremely high quality ingredients and execution (minus the inflated prices). Favorites include sashimi, crispy tiny sardine salad, fried rice with ume & shiso, pork-stuffed tempura mushrooms, and ei-hire roasted rayfin.

late night

Tel: 082-567-7555 Opening hours: 17:00-25:00 Tuesday-Sunday 2-14-8 Danbara, Minami-ku, map p.29 [E-4]

SUPER SUPPERCLUB

by Matt Jungblut

Super Supperclub’s stuffy gentlemen’s club entrance belies the welcoming date spot inside. Proceed down the disorientating mirror hallway (including the smoking room, rest of SSC is nonsmoking), surprisingly arriving in an open kitchen, then led to your choice of the following areas; semi-private booths in a warm fire lit room, the dark lounge room with enormous bed-like couches, or the gold chromed back bar. An amazing sound system run by technicians, and stage with a large piano give hope that the music will catch up with the entertaining decor. While the extraordinary space is the attraction, wellmade entrees, snacks, desserts, and reasonably priced drinks complete the experience. Tel: 082-545-0588 Opening hours: 17:00-29:00 Mon-Sat, 17:00-27:00 Sun, Nat Hols Teigeki Kaikan 2F, 1-20 Shintenchi, Naka-ku, map B p.30 11

If you would like to share one of your favorite dining spots in a future issue send us a 100 word description with a photo or two to eattheday@gethiroshima.com GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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in memoriam: mac Matt Mangham and Scott Yano

This past August, Hiroshima lost a singular and much-loved native son. Masanori Kono, or Mac, was the owner of the legendary Mac Bar.

The bar had several faces. One appeared late on weekend nights, when dance tunes shook the walls. Mac had usually fled by then, leaving the bar in the hands of Yuri, Boku and anyone else helping out that night. A regular feature of the place was the succession of customers who ended up, by chance or design, functioning as staff. Another Mac Bar showed itself earlier in the evening, especially in the first few hours after opening on weekdays at 6pm. Mac would often be alone, just setting up, and he’d nod as you came in and rummage under the bar for the night’s first beer. Our tastes in music were similar enough that, even if he wasn’t yet ready for human contact, he could dig out some forgotten Lubbock guitarist’s demo and we’d listen in rapt, companionable silence. Once he knew you, he might pester you about your Japanese, try to teach you Go or Shogi, or drag you off to some fantastic little place you’d never have found alone.

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In those early hours, longtime Japanese regulars drifted in and out, often bearing gifts of food or flowers. It was possible to have a quiet chat, working your way toward the bottom of one of the enormous whiskies Yuri and Boku poured, as if there were no other way to drink Scotch than by the quart. Before the crowds arrived, you could also sample the full range of that wall of CDs. Yuri would ask, “What do you want to hear?” One night in a smartass mood, I said “Play me ‘Tammy’” Yuri moved the stepladder a yard to the left, bounced up to the second rung and plucked a single CD from among thousands. A moment later the young Debbie Reynolds’ voice swelled from the big speakers. Magic. The bar’s first location is remembered fondly by people worldwide. Before cellphones, when even a landline might cost 80,000 yen, Mac offered a central meeting point. You’d scramble up 4 flights of stairs, avoiding the idea of coming down again. Mac was on the top floor, the only business still operating in the building, and the space was tiny. Still, it filled up every night but Sunday until 1am (unless you were lucky enough to be part of a lock-in), sometimes spilling up onto the roof in the early days. Sometime in the 80s, Mac’s customers bought him a CD player. After initial skepticism, the thing stayed. This meant, among other things, a shift from playing albums to song requests. Before the CDs, there was an equally impressive collection of vinyl. Mac would invite you to lob a dart into the stacks to choose the next selection. One night

someone leaned the tables against the wall to make a small dance floor, and things changed forever. Together Mac, Yuri and Boku provided not just a bar, but the core of Hiroshima’s international community. There were more official attempts to foster exchange elsewhere, but Mac was where it happened. The true and wholly unauthorized heart of the city’s international life beat in time with whatever played on the turntable in that smoky upstairs room. People from every corner of

I was greeted by a smiling woman who introduced herself as Yuri. Later that night I met Mac himself and then Boku, the third, irreplaceable leg on which the whole wonderful, improbable mess rested. Boku had built the bar, the stools, and the folding steel racks that housed a vast collection of CDs. The beer was kept below the bar, and a meager collection of mostly dusty bottles glinted from the shadows at floor level. It was clear that, however much booze was consumed, the bar was about the music. The beer was fuel for the dance, and the dance lasted until you pushed the door open to find yourself blinking in the broad daylight of morning.

I met Mac on my second night in Japan. My brother brought me to the bar, gleefully rubbing his hands as we climbed the stairs to the door. I pushed it open, and the music, smoke and sheer energy of the place rocked me back on my heels.

I miss Mac. I can only imagine how he is missed by others. I miss the way he’d lunge across the bar, laughing at his own joke, or cock his head to listen intently to some half-assed point you were trying to make. Miss the exultant moods that made him seem possessed. The spirit of the bar is portable and indomitable. It has inhabited thousands of people who, perhaps without any knowledge of one another, carry that connection with them through their lives. But we won’t see its like again. Thank you Mac, Yuri and Boku, for all of it.

Over the years Mac and Yuri did a thousand kindnesses for non-Japanese in Hiroshima. They helped finance car purchases, wheeled gift barrels of sake into weddings, intervened with yakuza when things turned ugly at 4am, and arranged a funeral or two for people whose lives came to an end here. There was a warmth and a glad, uncomplicated welcome that met you every time you pushed open that door. Years after I stopped going as often, it felt like coming home. Even when the place was so packed you couldn’t reach the bar, Yuri would spot me and, harried as she was, that famous smile would break out. If it was quieter, a favorite song would be playing within minutes of my sitting down.

Japan, from all points of the globe, came together. Along with English teachers, Estonian pro-wrestlers, Belgian college students, Brazilian soccer coaches and touring musicians, Mac’s deep and impossibly widespread roots in the city brought in a cross section of Hiroshima that included bankers and counterculture dropouts, office ladies and gangsters, carpenters and classical musicians. And they danced.

GetHiroshima / Winter 2016

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goto izumi's deep 12 hiroshima 第一劇

vol.

daiichi gekijo

場

Strip theater was booming in Japan when the Daiichi Gekijo opened in Hiroshima’s Nagarekawa adult entertainment district in 1951. Part of a chain of theaters which also had locations in Tokuyama, Takamatsu, Fukuyama, Okayama and Kobe, it was one of several strip theaters in Hiroshima. The only remaining classic strip theater in Hiroshima for some years now, it too will close its doors at the end of January, 2017. While adult sextertainment in Japan has evolved in all manner of bizarre ways, the basic format of strip theater has remained largely unchanged. I talked with ‘Shacho’, the owner of Daiichi Gekijo, about his time involved in this post-war entertainment, soon to be consigned to the past.

“I started out with Daiichi Gekijo in Kobe in 1976, taking over running the theater there a year later. Strip clubs were in their hey day and we had 6 or 7 full-time staff. Then, after 2 years as manager in Takamatsu, I became owner of the Okayama theater at the age of 30. However, as a result of ‛this and that’, it shut down after about 18 months. In the summer of 1983, the Hiroshima owner called me up and asked me to come and give him a hand. I eventually took over and have been here for the last 33 years.” “Running a strip club really isn’t much fun. I’ve been through two clampdowns and the adult entertainment business has been in a state of continual change. There were over 120 strip theaters in Japan when I got into the business. Only 20 some are open today. Back in the day, strip theaters like ours were the only place you could see a naked woman. Now, with the internet and the proliferation of sex clubs, the number of people willing to pay to just view the female form shrunk considerably. Strip theaters were also the first casualty of the economic downturn.” “The way the place of women in society has changed is really interesting. Years ago, it was considered unseemly for a woman to be out in the streets after 10pm. After a drinking party, the women would head home promptly while the guys would move on to a strip club. Once women started to enjoy the same social freedoms as men,

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mixed groups were far more likely to follow a drinking party by going to karaoke than to a strip show.” “The dancers, or the tarento as they are known, used to be mostly in their 40s, many of them former nichibu classical dance performers. There were a few younger women around, but they were generally trainees whose stage role was confined to picking up the clothes shed by the older dancers during the shows. I’ve always thought it must be a tough job, being a dancer. They used to be confined to dancing to either enka songs or old time music from overseas. Today, they are free to use everything from pop to contemporary avant garde music, so there are as many different kinds of shows as there are dancers. As the age of the dancers has come down, the number of stylish and attractive dancers has increased. They’re all a lot younger these days. I guess younger is better when it comes to stripping, but, for me, I think the artistry was better back in the day.” Shacho painted a picture for me of Japanese strip theater before the tambourines and the ribbons, before polaroids with the tarento. Audiences were more than happy to just sit and watch the shows without such innovations. They could smoke too. When I started going to strip theaters, about 20 years ago, there were more clubs around than today, but the decline had already begun.

On my monthly visits to the “Hollywood” theater in Fukuoka, I’d marvel at the dancers. The shows really did move me. There was, too, the sense of superiority that comes with getting the keys to a secret world. Few women frequented strip theaters back then, and I was always quite conspicuous. Now, looking back, I wish I’d done more to introduce this secret world to those around me. There is no rule that says it is one to which only men are admissible. I’ve always found the level of performance very high and, on each visit, I am impressed once more by the sheer beauty of the female form. Performances into which a lifetime of experiences have been poured are so moving they almost reduce me to tears. To me, this is art. “A traditional art form for the common people”, something I sincerely hope will not disappear from Japan.

The day after talking with Shacho, I travelled across the sea to the New Dogo Music theater in Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama. I asked the 4 dancers about their favorite place to perform. 3 out the 4 replied Daiichi Gekijo in Hiroshima. “The customers are great and, somewhat unusually, we always hit it off with the other dancers there”, they said. At the end of January, the Daichi Gekijyo will close its doors after 65 years. The building will be cleared out in February. In March, it will be an empty lot. I think Shacho should have the last word. “I’ve been a part of this world for decades. It’s been my bread and butter, so, it goes without saying that I have great affection for it. It’s very hard to let it go.”

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Experience the dying art of Japanese striptese at Daiichi Gekijo on a special tour led by Goto Izumi herself. Check gethiroshima.com/events/ Warning: Everyone’s idea of art is different and we should point out that the each dancer’s performance ends with an “open show” in which the focus (and spotlight) is very much on the female nether regions. Location: map B p.30

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広島第一劇場 1976年（昭和51年）に生まれた第一劇場。その当時はストリップ劇場が最盛期で広島県内にもいくつかあった。第一劇場もその当時は「徳山」「広島」「岡山」「高松」「神戸」「福山」と6つのチェーン館があったが、今は広島の1館のみとなっている。いわゆる「ストリップショー」と言われているショーシステムは、曲や踊り子さんの年齢層は時代とともに変わりつつあるが、基本は変わっていない。

し！」という事でストリップ劇場へ行く事もあったそうだ。それが昨今男性と同じようにいろいろと自由になった女性達は、飲み会でも一次会などでお開きにはしない。それじゃあどうしよか、となった場合にカラオケなどへ流れるようになっていった。ここでもストリップ劇場は飛ばされてしまう結果に。様々な要因を踏まえ今時代とともにその歴史を閉じようとしている。

踊り子さん（タレントさん）歴史今の社長になって33年。社長は1976年（昭和51年）に神戸第一劇場に入り二年目にして支配人になった。その当時はストリップ全盛期。常時6.7人の従業員が働いていた。その後高松の第一劇場に呼ばれ店長として二年。その後30歳にして岡山第一劇場のオーナーになるが紆余曲折あって、一年半で廃業。そのまま岡山に残っていた所、広島第一劇場のオーナーから広島を手伝ってくれないか、との電話をきかっけに広島へ。1983年（昭和58年）夏の事だった。その後また新たなる紆余曲折（手入れなど）あった後、正式に広島第一劇場の社長に就任。あっという間に33年の月日が過ぎた。

現状ストリップ劇場の経営は楽なものではない。過去2回の手入れが入り、時代とともに娯楽も風俗も変わっていく。社長がこの世界に入った時には、全国150件以上あった劇場も今や20数件になってしまった。ストリップ劇場が衰退していく理由を社長はこう語る。以前は女性の裸を見るにはストリップ劇場しかなかったが、今やネットの普及、フーゾク店の進出に伴って女性の裸を見る目的でお金を払う人が減ってしまった。不景気になった時、まず外されるもの、それがストリップ劇場だったのだ。興味深いのは女性の変化の話。昔の女性は門限が厳しく22時過ぎまで出歩く女性が少なかった時代。飲み会があっても一次会でお開き。女性は帰り、残った男性で「よ

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かつての劇場の踊り子さんは40代が中心だった。日舞をやっていた踊り子さんも多かったように思う。研究生と呼ばれる若い子もいたが、始めは姐さん達の脱ぎ捨てた衣装を拾う事から始まった。踊り子とは大変な仕事だなあと思っていた。選曲も以前は演歌や外国の古い音楽が中心。今は曲調も多様化し、ポップスから現代音楽まで広く自由に使われるようになっている為、踊り子さんの数だけ多種多様なショーがある。年齢も若くなりスタイルのいい可愛い子が増えている。「今はみんな若くなってる。脱ぐんは若いほうがいんだろうけど演技は昔のほうがよかったかな」と40年近くこの世界を見てきた社長がこっそり言う。

あとがき以前はタンバリンやリボン（紙テープ）やポラロイドなどもなかった。純粋に見るだけのものだったが、お客様に勢いがあったそう。館内は当然喫煙もokだった。私がストリップ劇場というものに通い始めた20年前は、今よりも劇場数は多かったが勢いは落ち始めている時だった。博多に住んでいた頃ハリウッドという劇場に毎月通い、踊り子さんのかっこよさに憧れ、ショーの素晴らしさに感動し、開かれてない世界を知っている事への優越感に浸っていた。その当時女性客はまだ少なく、私はいつも目立っていたが、今考えてみるとその時からこの世界をもっともっと伝えていけばよかったのだと振り返る。ストリップとは決し

て男性だけのものというルールは無いし、ショー自体がかなりのグレードの高さであり、女性というものがこんなにも美しいものなのだという感動がそこにある。そして一人一人の踊り子の人生を凝縮したかのようなショーは、時に涙が出る程に胸を打つ。もう今となってはの話かもしれないが、このある意味「庶民の伝統芸能」ともいえるショーの灯が、この日本から消える事が無いよう切に願っている。この取材の翌日、私は道後にある劇場ニュー道後ミュージックへと足を運んだ。踊り子4人と話し、全国で一番好きな劇場はどこか？という質問をした際に、4人中3人が「広島第一劇場」と答えた。お客さんがいい、広島で出会った踊り子さんとは不思議と仲良くなれる、楽屋が個室など理由は様々だったが、こんなにも近くにあった劇場がこれほどいい劇場だったのだ、という事に目から鱗。一月いっぱいで営業は終了。二月に運び出しを行い、三月には更地に。社長の「この世界でずっと食べてきているし、何十年もこの世界に居るからこの世界が好きやしな。未練が残る」という言葉がずっと心に残る。

Matt’s Moment

your central league champions!

This was going to be the year. On September 10th, for the first time in a quarter century, the Hiroshima Toyo Carp clinched the Central League pennant and the town erupted. It was Saturday night, and the streets filled with jubilant people streaming out of bars and restaurants. No other team in Japan had waited so long to win a Japan Series, and now a path lay open. I am the worst kind of fair weather fan, the kind who doesn’t even like the game. I’d hardly noticed the Carp were doing well this year until they were within lunging distance of the pennant, and by then there was no one in the city who hadn’t noticed. I don’t own a single piece of Carp gear. I’ve never set foot in Mazda Stadium, though I’ve stood on the roof of the adjacent Costco parking lot and been mesmerized by the lights, the noise, the red, roaring sea of fans rising over a flawless field of green. And this is cold hearted of me. I’ve taught hundreds of diehard, lifelong fans. I work with them. Former students have been married in Carp colors. The team comes up regularly in conversation, and on a good day I manage to feign interest until I can fake a seizure. I once sat at a bar next to two American Carp players and asked if they were travelers. When they said they played baseball, I nodded stupidly and asked for what team. They were polite about it. Every Japanese person in the room, of course, knew exactly who they were. What makes this especially ungracious is that baseball offers an easy chance at common ground. When a cab driver asks me what I think of the Texas Rangers’ chances, the disappointment is palpable when I tell him I don’t follow the game.

After all, baseball is the one obsession both our nations share that almost no one else on earth cares about. Soccer is increasingly popular but, as my wife says, it has no history here. Those players I sat with were the most famous Americans living in western Japan. Except for the war years, American players have been a feature of Japanese professional baseball since the 1930s, including Jimmy Bonner, an African-American pitcher who was receiving regular paychecks in Tokyo eleven years before Jackie Robinson broke the color line with the Brooklyn Dodgers. And the reverse is true as well. The Carp pitcher Hiroki Kuroda, a fan favorite who retired at the end of this Series, had just returned to Hiroshima in 2015 to finish his career after seven years in the U.S. with the Major Leagues. Even the Carp mascot was designed by a married couple linked with the Jim Henson Company, and the performer inside the costume is an American. And the Carp hold a special place in the hearts of fans even outside Hiroshima. They’re a purist’s team, with no corporate majority holder and little money to splash around. Less money has meant less of the reek of scandal that hangs over some teams. But it has also meant less money. They almost didn’t make it into the modern era at all. Formed in 1949, they finished at the bottom of the Central League their first two years. In 1952 the League decided to drop the lowest ranking team at season’s end. The Carp eked out a secondfrom-the-bottom placement, spelling doom for the Shochiku Robins, the team that in an earlier incarnation had signed Jimmy Bonner. Through the 70s and 80s, the Carp did well, but their last Central League pennant win was in 1991, and in the years since they’ve seemed cursed..

So when friends said they were headed to the pub to watch the last game of the pennant race, I went along. I’ve established that I’m not the man to give a play-by-play account of the game, but it was an incredible night. Indifference was out of the question. The pub was mobbed with people who were out for one reason only, and there was no fighting the atmosphere in the room. By the fourth inning, the Japanese fans around me were rapidly adding to their vocabulary of English obscenities. By the eighth I was pouring mustard over my head and calling down cold death on the Yomiuri Giants. And then the Carp won the damned thing. The room went quite silent. People wept. Yes they did. Then out on the streets, the cheering began. The rest of the night comes in flashes. I know I found friends and old acquaintances in the crowd and hugged them. I found strangers in the crowd and hugged them. By Shintenchi Park a group of young men tossed me into the air, shouting, then laid me gently on the pavement and walked away. There were lots of high fives, each punctuated by the word “Yeah!” We were champions. I couldn’t watch all of the Japan Series. Even in the first two games, which the Carp won handily, I had conceived a desire to punch Shohei Otani, a pitcher for the Hokkaido Nippon-Ham Fighters, right in his little pursed mouth. By the disastrous final game there were other things that needed doing, but the TV was kept on, checked regularly, cursed at. When Kuroda appeared in Carp uniform for the last time and knelt alone by the mound, an entire city held its breath, watching. We’ll be watching again next year. Words: Matthew Mangham

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Hiroshima’s new landmark 13th Floor Observation Deck The crowning glory of Hiroshi Sambuichi’s innovative building design. Based on Japanese shrine design, walking out onto the open wooden constructruction is instantly soothing, and it oﬀers a bird’s eye view of the A-bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park, as well as views to Hiroshima Castle and the island of Miyajima. It’s the perfect place to enjoy the sunset with a beverage from the Akushu Wind Side Cafe and someone special.

12th Floor Orizuru Plaza The “orizuru” origami crane has come to symbolize wishes for peace all over the world. Here, friendly bilingual staﬀ are on hand to guide you through folding your own orizuru to donate or take home as a momento. Send your creation, made with specially designed paper, into the 50m tall “Orizuru Wall” for an additional fee. The interactive digital displays are a playful means to introduce children to the idea of the peace crane and its connection to Hiroshima’s tragic history.

1st Floor Souvenir Select and Akushu Café The ground floor is open to all, free of charge. Here you‘ll find a selection of around 1000 locally produced and themed gifts and the Akushu Cafe. The smoke-free cafe has pleasant terrace seating and offers snacks, light meals and sweets. The drinks menu includes quality coffee, as well as other hot and cold drinks. Alcoholic drinks available include local sake.

Admission: 18 years and over ¥1700 / 12-17 years ¥900 / 6-11 years ¥700 / 4-5 years ¥500 Purchase an inclusive “Throw-in Ticket” in the lobby for an additional ￥500 to throw your orizuru paper crane into the “Orizuru Wall” (or pay and additional ￥600 on the 12th Floor). Located North-East side of Peace Park, just behind the Genbaku Dome, map C p.31 [B-1] 15 Open: 10:00-19:00 - www.orizurutower.jp