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Dengaku でんがく Double dengaku でんがく w うどん・そうめん Udon, Somen Dengaku udon でんがくうどん・ / somen そうめん Dengaku udon でんがくうどん with double meat （肉 w） Dengaku udon でんがく (double udon, double meat) （うどん w 肉 w） Tempura 天ぷら Oden おでん Rice (Big, Medium, Small) めし 大 中 小 Non-alcohol beer ノンアルコール Beer (Big, Small) ビール 大 小 Draft Beer 生ビール Sake 酒 Take-away: 持ち帰り Bag of dengaku でんがく袋 せんじがら（馬・豚） Senjigara (Horse, Pork) Senjigara (Beef) せんじがら（牛）
goto izumi's deep hiroshima
vol.
Words and photos by Goto Izumi
translation by Paul Walsh
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"Hmm, I must try oysters while I'm here," I hear the dear traveler say. Or, "An okonomiyaki dinner is the way to top off my trip to Hiroshima."
!!!! Noooooooo dear traveler To be sure, okonomiyaki and oysters are delicious. I’m partial to them myself. An okonomiyaki topped with a big helping of freshly sliced green onions is just heavenly…
No!! We will not go there. This is no dime a dozen guide book. Here, dear reader, I will give you the low down on the soul food of backstreet Hiroshima. The soul food that even among Hiroshima folk, only those that are in the know, know, you know? Our destination is in an area known as Fukushima-cho, found in the western ward of Nishi-ku, about 5 minutes from the city center by car. To walk requires some effort. In Fukushima-cho you’ll find all kinds of delicacies rarely seen in the center. Top of the lot, however, are two working class horumon dishes; dengaku and horumon tempura. Horumon is offal, the kind of meat that gets thrown away in most western restaurants. Dengaku is a soup filled with stewed offal, and horumon tempura is just what it sounds like, offal in tempura batter. A few places sell this stuff, but Goto Izumi’s number one recommendation is Fukumoto. Fukumoto is as deep as you can get.
Goto Izumi http://gotoizumi.net International performance artist. Goto Izumi promotes avant garde events, is the owner of Organ-za, works in radio, as an MC and also makes films. Her greatest love, however, is discovering underground culture that tickles her fancy. Organ-za（ヲルガン座）1-4-32 Tokaichi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi / 082-295-1553 http://www.organ-za.com / organzainfo@gmail.com
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