Is Instagram more beneficial or damaging to gen Z consumers?

Is Instagram more beneficial or damaging to gen Z consumers?

Georgia Walters 6th May 2021

A case study submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for BA (Hons) Fashion Management & Communication

Sheffield Hallam University

Primary Imagery

Figure 1 - (Photograph of nude shades, n.d.)

acknowledgements I would like to express my thanks to Paul Luke, Louise Stocks-Young and Karen Outram for guiding and supporting me throughout my dissertation and research project. I have utilised the resources they have provided me with, as well as the conversations we have had that have enlightened me with useful perspectives that could be taken further into my research project.

I would also like to give thanks to all participants who took part in any form of primary research as it gave me more interesting perspective into the researched topic.

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con 2

ntents Acknowledegements Abstract Key Words Methodology Chapter 1 - The Rise of the Influencer and Trolling Chapter 2 - Body Image and Eating Disorders Chapter 3 - Cosmetic Surgery Chapter 4 - Instagram as a Community Conclusion References List of Illustrations Appendices

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ABSTRACT Instagram is rapidly becoming the world’s most major social media platform.

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This case study will investigate whether Instagram is more beneficial or damaging to gen Z consumers. This will be through the exploration of consumers experiences on the app and weighing up the positive and negative aspects of the platform in relation to its users; being creators and general consumers, and followed by elements such as Instagram’s effects on Mental Health. The four chapters within this essay will include starting off exploring The Rise of the Consumer and Trolling, going onto investigating Body Image and Eating Disorders, as well as Cosmetic Surgery and finally, finishing off

studying Instagram as a Community.

A combination of both primary and secondary research will be conducted in order to gain an in depth insight into this case study topic. The primary research will include questionnaires, online surveys, 1:1 interviews and focus groups via Zoom, as well as utilising online events and workshops; all abiding by the COVID-19 restrictions and rules to ensure all participants are safe and adhering government guidelines. Furthermore, the secondary research will be carried out using magazines, books and online journals/articles. As well as various other online sources, such as Mintel and Statista, which are both extremely reliable resources.

KEY words Instagram Mental Health Beneficial Damaging Influence

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Figure 1 - (Photograph of nude shades, n.d.)

“Social media has been described as more addictive than cigarettes and alcohol and is now so entrenched in the lives of young people that it is no longer possible to ignore it when talking about young people’s mental health issues.” (Cramer, 2017).

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METHODOLOGY

Within this case study, the researcher will summarise and outline the effects of Instagram on gen Z consumers, specifically surrounding the area of mental health. In addition, there will be discussion including the advantages and disadvantages of the photo-based app, as well as informing the reader of the many elements that contribute to these factors. The four chapters within the essay will aim to investigate the following: The Rise of the Influencer and Trolling including culture and trolling/cyberbullying, Body Image and Eating Disorders and how this could stem from anxiety and depression which could be caused by the app/users on the app, Cosmetic Surgery and the influence Instagram has on such procedures and finally, Instagram as a community in regards to social and political movements, as well as support networks.

Furthermore, a key community within the Instagram app includes the Black Lives Matter movement, which is another important aspect of Instagram and society as it gains justice; even if it is at a steady, but slow pace.

This case study will discuss the positives and negatives of both significant factors, and consequently the impact it can have on its consumer.

Instagram has quickly become a concern due to the huge role it plays in mental health among its consumers and the effect it has on society. The effects on mental health are emphasised by research from the NHS; back in 2017, a survey regarding social media was conducted by the Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH), asking 14-24 aged individuals in the UK of their thoughts and experiences of social media. The aim for the researcher was to be able to rank the five most used platforms with their findings and as a result, Instagram came last, having the worst impact on mental health and well-being (NHS, 2017). This 14-24 age demographic are known as the ‘digital natives’, and are the generation of people who have lived in a world full of technology and have never been without the internet (Halton, 2019).

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The perceived ideal life portrayed on Instagram is one that many individuals aspire to have. Through the use of Instagram, it is now easy to pretend and allow consumers on the app to believe, a different life is being lived rather than the reality. There are countless websites out there that produce readymade imagery for consumers to purchase and pass off as their own, such as Life Faker (Faker, 2020). In today’s society, by the touch of a couple of buttons; it is easier than ever to convince people that you are something that you are not, and without the intention of Instagram, the app seems to permit this.

This perceived ideal life that is often put forward onto the app by influencers, can affect users’ mental health due to the desire of this lifestyle.

A primary research survey conducted by the researcher focused on females aged 18-24, portrayed; 76.67% of participants stated ‘both positively and negatively’ when asked ‘How do you think people’s mental health is affected by Instagram?’ (see Appendix A). This could suggest that there is a large amount of individuals explaining that there are many negative connotations with the app. Even though the majority of participants are saying there are also good points, it is clear to see that a sizeable portion are relating Instagram to negativity.

The aim of this case study is to create valid discussion surrounding Instagram and exploring what it can do for gen Z consumers, as well as the positive and negative connotations of the app. As stated by Mintel, “Social media is defined as consisting of content uploaded by users on a platform that serves no express purpose other than sharing that content” (Hulkower, 2020).

Instagram is a place of expression, but this often gets lost in translation due to trolls, bullying and other unwanted negativity on the app. However, these negative aspects of the platform, can often enhance engagement as said posts will get more attention, meaning they will reach a wider audience, resulting in higher statistics for these individuals. In October 2020, Statista reported that 13.9% of active Instagram users were women aged 18-24 (Clement, 2020). This is the demographic that this case study will be covering due to it being so current and relevant.

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Figure 2 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

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Figure 3 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

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chapter 1

The Rise of the Influencer & Trolling

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Figure 4 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

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Chapter One seeks to examine The Rise of the Influencer, including how Instagram has changed over the years in both positive and negative ways, and how this has resulted in an increase in trolling and cyberbullying on influencers’ as well as other consumers’ posts. This section of the essay will also include how Influencers use their platforms in an optimistic way to promote positivity and motivation for their supporters and how this can help their followers, and in which ways it can affect all users’ mental health.

Users on the Instagram app used to be less critical. The app was a platform formed to share the creativity and expression of oneself, just like Jaded London who aims their products at gen Z consumers and are not afraid to break fashion boundaries (Wightman-Stone, 2019). It was understood by The BBC that once celebrities started joining the photo based app, other users followed. This was because the content shared on the app was from the celebrity themselves, not news that could have been twisted in Newspapers and Magazines (Evans, 2018). As the number of users carried on increasing, the amount of room for trolls and negativity on the app also increased.

“People use the internet to get more of what they do not get enough of in everyday life” (Chen, 2018).

Unfortunately, this could create feelings of jealousy causing people to behave differently to how they normally would within society.

They can act like keyboard warriors and take control, causing a detrimental effect on the mental health of the individual on the receiving end of the trolling/negativity.

It is also extremely apparent that trolling and cyberbullying occurs among individuals that are not in the public eye. Back in 2016, in a survey based on teenage individuals, 69% of participants reported that they had been trolled/bullied on Instagram (Department, 2016). In The Atlantic, Lorenz suggests that gen Z’s networks occur almost completely on Instagram, in comparison to other social media platforms (Lorenz, 2018) suggesting Instagram is the most used platform among gen Z consumers, enabling them to find new fashion trends to express themselves through. Furthermore, negative comments that young individuals endure online could result in mental health illnesses such as anxiety and depression, which can often lead to heart-breaking outcomes such as suicide.

There are many disastrous situations regarding suicide within the fashion industry, such as Kate Spade who tragically took her own life due to anxiety and depression back in 2018, (Press, 2018) which has allowed the conversation about suicide to become more apparent within the fashion industry.

It is known that influencers feel a lot of pressure to be ‘perfect’ on Instagram which can negatively affect mental health. ‘Cancel culture’ (when an influencer gets ‘cancelled’ due to controversial actions) is a term many social media stars fear which adds to the stress of being ‘perfect’ online. It is also common that some influencers are not treated well by brands they are working with (Mulcahy, 2019). Furthermore, back in 2019, Instagram trialled removing the ‘likes’ feature on the app to see how it would impact consumers and if it would put influencers and other users at ease while posting on the platform.

This was mainly due to individuals becoming obsessive with the number of likes in today’s society. Instagram chief Adam Mosseri affirmed eliminating the ‘likes’ feature was “about creating a less pressurised environment where people feel comfortable expressing themselves” (Meisenzahl, 2019).

The obsessiveness with the ‘likes’ feature on the app takes over the lives of influencers across the globe, which could be extremely stressful and therefore detrimental to their mental health, portraying how damaging the likes feature can be to gen Z consumers.

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However, Petter argues back in 2019 Instagram itself introduced some features within the app to protect its users. For example, the company announced a new anti-bullying element where it asks the user to think again before posting a comment that the app considers to be unpleasant This feature uses Artificial Intelligence to understand the type of comment being composed. Furthermore, the user is able to select the ‘Learn more’ option and if they choose to select this, they are then notified that their type of comment has been reported in the past by other users. The goal of this new feature is to prevent abusive behaviour on the platform to keep users safe (Petter, 2019). In addition, back in 2019 HOLYOKE students of all diversities from over seventeen different schools, formed a Unify Anti-Bullying Fashion Show. Within this fashion show, they created a beautiful collection including several colours, patterns and styles as well as promotional T-Shirts to raise awareness which they then promoted on Instagram (Desk, 2019). This revolutionary fashion show sets a positive example on Instagram for gen Z consumers to stand up against bullying.

However, in an online survey carried out by the researcher surrounding influencers and trolling, it was found that 27.27% said they had been trolled online and 81.82% of participants stated they had received negative comments online. In addition 54.55% of participants specified that these comments affected their mental health, for reasons such as knocking self-confidence as well as believing the harmful comments they are receiving. (See Appendix B). This is conveying the large percentage of individuals who are trolled on Instagram and how harmful it can be to their mental health.

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Alternatively, there are individuals around the world putting consequences in place for these negative actions. For example, fines and laws are being put into place for cyberbullying and trolling in Australia, as of December 2020, the same year the balloon sleeve trend entered the fashion industry (Pithers, 2020). Trolling can be extremely harmful to individuals on the receiving end, which resulted in these laws coming into place over in Australia. It is said by The Guardian that fines of up to $555,000 could be a sanction for the act of severely abusive, harmful or bullying content, under the federal government’s online safety legislation. In this circumstance, the troll had 24 hours to remove inappropriate content or they would be at risk of fines as well as being blocked (Davey, 2020). The fact that there are an increasing amount of sanctions being put into place regarding trolling and cyberbullying, is a huge win for mental health, as this will decrease the amount of negative comments that float around Instagram and cause less individuals and influencers to feel low.

Primary Imagery

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Figure 5 - (Oh Polly, 2021)

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In a 1:1 interview with Instagram influencer Elesha Arnfield, it was found that she uses her platform to talk about mental health, general well-being and spirituality; because she believes it adds value to people’s lives, which has resulted in her now feeling like a role model to her followers. In regards to trolling, Elesha has received many hurtful comments and messages but chooses to ignore it and remember that it is a reflection of the people writing them and not a reflection of her. In addition, Elesha speaks highly of the app stating that it has been an amazing place for self-development for her. (See Appendix C). The fact that she uses her platform to spread positivity, portrays how there are beneficial elements to Instagram when it comes to mental health.

As gen Z consumers are young they can be easily manipulated. With the lives that influencers live online, it is hard to remember that what they choose to portray online, is not the full truth. This can be damaging to gen Z consumer’s mental health because they are being fed a lie of what a ‘perfect’ life and person looks like. For example, back in 2019, Oh Polly launched a secondary Instagram page which they called ‘Oh Polly Inclusive’. (Onibada, 2019). This page (which has now been deactivated) was designated to plus-sized and diverse models, influencers and customers, portraying segregation.

This was not a positive message to be sending out as a brand, to consumers as it could be extremely detrimental to users. In addition, viewing the negativity and trolls online every day, can easily influence individuals to act like this, influencing gen Z consumers to treat people with disrespect, creating a vicious cycle of trolling and cyberbullying.

Overall, it is clear to see that trolling is an immense and common issue among influencers and users, which can be extremely damaging for gen Z consumers to see and/ or experience. However, it is also evident that Instagram is putting measures in place to reduce the amount and levels of trolling, cyberbullying and negativity online in order to protect its consumers.

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Figure 6 - (London, N, 2021)

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chapter 2

Body Image & Eating Disorders

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Leading on from the previous chapter, Chapter Two aims to investigate body image and eating disorders and how these can be affected by Instagram. Within this part of the essay, the researcher will examine the deception of Body Image on the app and the specific eating disorders consumers can develop and why, as well as how brands within the app can contribute to these factors. In addition, the researcher will also investigate the positive side of this topic such as the individuals on the photo-based app using their platform in an optimistic way to promote body positivity, rather than unrealistic body types and physical appearances.

According to mental health Start-up Sanctus, 62% of people feel inadequate when they compare themselves to other individuals online (Gil, 2018). Even though brands such as Pretty Little Thing use plus sized models, it is easy for consumers to compare themselves to slim models used on the website and their Instagram page. Negative thoughts about oneself, like this, can be detrimental. This is proven based on the rates of anxiety and

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depression which has increased by 70% over the past 25 years (Firestone, 2020). In addition to these mental health issues, eating disorders can also stem from Instagram due to an unrealistic view of ‘perfection’ promoted and showcased by numerous brands and influencers on the app. Some of the most common eating disorders are Bulimia, Anorexia and Body Dysmorphia, all allowing the individual to perceive themselves as a different size to how others see them and consume as little as possible. A common eating disorder that is prominent on Instagram is called Orthorexia Nervosa, which is essentially an obsession with eating in a healthy way (Turner & Lefevre, 2017). This trend stems from a term known as “#fitspiration” used on the app; this hashtag is used among fitness enthusiasts on Instagram to promote exercise and the consumption of healthy food (Tiggemann & Zaccardo, 2016). An individual who is often viewing posts related to this hashtag on the social media platform, could possibly end up developing Orthorexia Nervosa, because this portrays unrealistic body types, which is a risk for young individuals.

Figure 7 - (Photograph of body close up, 2020)

BULIMIA ANOREXIA BODY DYSMORPHIA

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Figure 8 - (Dove, 2019)

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However, there are multiple brands working on their marketing campaigns to portray body image in a positive way on their Instagram feeds. For example, within the past year, Victoria’s Secret has hired plus sized models after seeing Rihanna’s more inclusive brand, Savage X Fenty take off in the fashion industry (Parker, 2020). Rihanna’s lingerie brand has gained an enormous Instagram following of 3.7 million to date (savagexfenty, 2020), all due to her inclusive and body positive marketing campaigns. Members of the public can relate more to a brand that invites everyone to celebrate all sizes, rather than one specific and unrealistic goal.

In addition, there are also several Instagram stars known as influencers, as well as body positivity activists, who also proceed down the same route with their feed. For example, Chessie King and Stephanie Yeboah, who constantly post images of their bodies and how they are proud of the way they look, which is extremely inspiring to other consumers on the app. Portraying such inclusivity helps people of all shapes and sizes feel comfortable in their own skin. These Instagram stars also form fanbases who come together as one and work as support networks, which can help improve mental health due to knowing you are not alone.

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Figure 9 - (Devito, P, 2018)

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According to #StatusOfMind, 9 in 10 teenage girls state that they are unhappy with their own body (Firestone, Which is Worst for your Mental Health: Instagram, Facebook or YouTube?, 2020). Some argue that Instagram is a toxic platform where only one type of body is ‘the norm’ or the way that individuals ‘should’ look. While 68% of people are confessing to editing their photos and selfies (Peer, 2020). It is easy for consumers to believe that these individuals look the way they are portraying themselves on their page, when in fact, majority of the images are heavily edited, whether it be on their face or body. There are thousands of editing apps that are free and easily accessible. The number of these editing apps are constantly rising (Jennings-Edquist, 2020), such as FaceTune and Photoshop. However, they could have a negative impact on mental health because of the ‘fake’ way users are presenting themselves online. This allows members of the public to believe it is possible to look this ‘perfect’ while in reality, the images are edited and portraying unrealistic goals. This can progress into, and is also known as an ‘Insta Lie’, which is “an intentionally false representation of real life on social media” (Peer, 2020). However, Missguided have decided to take a new path and have chosen to no longer edit out stretch marks on their models, (Scott, 2017) which is extremely beneficial for gen Z consumers as they are viewing bodies in their natural form, allowing them to relate to the brand more.

In a focus group directed by the researcher surrounding body image and mental health in regards to Instagram, it was a popular opinion that editing apps create a distorted view of what the human body should look like. In addition, it was a common view that influencers who use editing apps to alter the way they look online, creates unrealistic goals for their followers, which can all extremely affect mental health (See Appendix D).

However, editing apps allow individuals to feel more confident within their posts and allow the images on their feed to match and be aesthetically pleasing. This is beneficial for influencers because, as it is their job, the aesthetics of the feed is the main goal for their Instagram profiles. In addition, this can boost their self-esteem and add some positivity to their mental health, while taking the pressure off of them. For example, Sarah Ashcroft has stated on her social media platforms that she does in fact edit her photographs, allowing her to feel assured with her content (Ashcroft, 2021).

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Figure 10 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

In addition, Instagram published that they were going to impose tighter restrictions on posts related to diet products and cosmetic surgery, by using age restrictions. This could be seen as a positive movement from Instagram and their management team, as they are attempting to lessen the impact on mental health, in regards to weight loss and detox products that are constantly being promoted on the app. Actor and body positivity campaigner Jameela Jamil, who has created two inclusive fashion collections in collaboration with Simply Be (Magazine, 2016), opposes the diet and detox industry. Jameela expresses her appreciation for this movement performed by Instagram by stating: “This is a huge win for our ongoing fight against the diet/detox industry, Facebook and Instagram taking a stand to protect the physical and mental health of people online sends an important message out to the world” (Guardian, 2019).

In a focus group hosted by the researcher (considering body image and mental health in regards to Instagram) it was a common view that this was a positive movement for the app as it is protecting younger gen Z

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individuals from aspiring to idealistic ambitions. (See Appendix D). Also, one participant feels Instagram has made her want to enhance her breasts. This is because there are several individuals all over the app, including brands, who have had surgery, or just have a larger sized bust. In addition, another participant stated how she wanted to reduce the size of her breasts due to the perception of these body parts on the app. This suggests that people are never satisfied with the bodies that they have, and sometimes this can be triggered by Instagram (See Appendix D) and affect mental health as users are always chasing and wanting something they do not have, for example, the desire to have the body of a Victoria’s Secret model.

Overall, evidence suggests by influencers using editing apps, filters and showing a deceptive lifestyle, Instagram can be quite toxic and have a negative impact on gen Z mental health. However, these factors, when used on oneself, can boost self-esteem and allow individuals to feel more positive about the way they look. In addition, body positivity pages as well as brands conveying this type of content is a huge movement in today’s society.

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Figure 11 - (Shields, T, n.d.)

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chapter 3

COSMETIC SURGERY

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To follow on from exploring Body Image and Eating Disorders that can be caused through Instagram, this third chapter will be detecting and analysing Cosmetic Surgery. The purpose of this chapter is to understand the influence Instagram can have on such procedures. In addition, this chapter will also examine the advantages of Cosmetic Surgery increasing self-esteem as well as the safe ways to carry out such procedures.

Instagram is a place full of inspiration with brands, such as Collusion who pride themselves on representation and inclusivity (Pike, 2018), as well as influencers among the app. A rising trend through social media and in particular Instagram, is cosmetic surgery. Consumers of the app view plenty of posts regarding this trend which will further

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influence them to potentially have these procedures themselves. According to VOGUE Magazine, this market is flourishing due to Botox now accounting for 9 in 10 practices (Daily, 2021). In a recent survey, focused on females aged 18-24, carried out by the researcher, it was found that 74% of participants said they would have some form of cosmetic surgery (see Appendix E), portraying how common these procedures really are. In addition, 70.59% of participants had, at some point, felt influenced by Instagram to have a cosmetic procedure. The fact that such a high percentage of contributors within the survey, had felt influenced by the app to have, or even think about having some form of cosmetic surgery, depicts how much Instagram affects gen Z consumers (see Appendix E).

Primary Imagery

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Figure 12 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

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Fake posts on Instagram can result in users being influenced to have cosmetic surgery and procedures to change the way they present themselves. Individuals will pay to have these procedures, in an attempt to boost their self-esteem. In 2017, a survey based on Facial Plastic Surgeons, discovered 55% of surgeons were seeing patients who wished to improve their physical appearance in their selfies (Michael Reilly, 2019) which was the reason they were proceeding with cosmetic surgery. This rising trend of cosmetic surgery due to Instagram has led to a new mental health illness that scientists are calling ‘Snapchat Dysmorphia’. This term refers to patients bringing Instagram filtered selfies to their surgeons and requesting to have procedures to allow them to look like these images, in real life. (Ritschel, 2018). Two of the main filters that were the cause of this new mental health illness are called ‘FixMe’, which portrayed the markings on an individual’s face prior to any cosmetic survey, and ‘Plastica’, which mimicked the look of extreme cosmetic surgery (News, 2019). These filters can be triggering to some individuals who have low self-esteem because it allows them to see themselves in a way they deem perfect. Even brands such as Prada have had their own Instagram filters that airbrush skin and promote their brand (Boey, 2019).

BBC News disagrees by explaining that Instagram banned and removed all augmented reality filters that represented plastic and cosmetic surgery to stop detrimental effects to consumers’ mental health (News, 2019). However, augmented reality can also be used for digital fashion, for example, The Fabricant and Johanna Jaskowska’s creation of ‘Iridescence’, a digital dress (Hackl, 2020).

Removing all augmented reality filters could be seen as a positive as the app is doing their best to protect users’ mental health as well as not promote cosmetic surgery for the wrong reasons. Instagram’s public policy manager, Emma Collins, whilst talking about the drive for Instagram to be a positive space explains “this policy is part of our ongoing work to reduce the pressure that people can sometimes feel as a result of social media” (Guardian, 2019).

This suggests they are coming from a good place to improve the mental health of its users.

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Figure 13 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

Despite the negative aspects of Instagram in regards to cosmetic surgery, a huge advantage of this area of the app, is the fact that there are several influencers/social stars and celebrities who promote how to get cosmetic surgery in a safe way. Many of these individuals will bring their following along with them on a YouTube video which they will then promote through their Instagram platform. For example, back in July 2020, Harriet Chadwick uploaded a video named “HUGE 21ST BIRTHDAY TRANSFORMATION…0-100” (Chadwick, 2020). Within this YouTube video, Harriet gets a cosmetic procedure of dermal nose and lip filler, performed by Be Enhanced Aesthetics, on Instagram. She provides the details of who she got her procedure carried out by, stating that she knew others who had gone to her for procedures before and therefore knowing it would be safe, as well as the aftercare that the cosmetic surgery endures. These sort of social media posts are beneficial for gen Z consumers, as they are promoting cosmetic surgeries in a positive way, otherwise it is likely that some individuals will go ahead with any surgeon, not fully well knowing if they are safe nor trustworthy.

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Figure 14 - (Jenner, K, 2018)

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In addition, the versatile aspect of Dermal Filler is that the product dissolves in a certain amount of time, usually between 6-18 months (NHS, Face and lip fillers (dermal fillers), 2019). Furthermore, the individual can have the product dissolved through the use of an enzyme called Hyaluronidase. This enzyme naturally occurs in the skin but can also be injected at a higher concentration to dissolve filler that is no longer wanted (Tatiana, 2020). Two main influencers/social media stars who have had this procedure to remove their fillers, are Molly Mae Hague and Kylie Jenner. Molly Mae promoted this method through the use of a YouTube video in October of 2020 called “I HAD MY LIP FILLER COMPLETELY DISSOLVED | VLOG | MOLLY MAE” in which she took her subscribers along to view the process, and in the description box, wrote “I hope you guys enjoyed this video and will potentially learn from my mistakes!” (Hague, 2020). She also states the doctor she goes to within the video, being Dr. Saleena Zimiri, on Instagram.

Back in 2018, Kylie Jenner simply posted an Instagram photo where she replied back to a comment saying “I got rid of all my filler” (March, 2018), where she is wearing a Vintage Mark Wong Nark 90’s Cable Knit Dress in black (Outfit, 2018). The fact that there are influencers out there choosing to remove such cosmetic procedures, sets a positive example for gen Z consumers, in the sense of not needing cosmetic surgery in order to increase your self-esteem, as influencers like these, have gone back on their decisions for a reason.

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Figure 1 - (Photograph of nude shades, n.d.)

Also, a recent survey, focused on females aged 18-24, regarding cosmetic surgery was carried out by the researcher. Within this survey, 47.06% of participants said they would be more likely to go to a clinic if it was promoted/suggested by a celebrity or social media star, whom they follow. (see Appendix E). This suggests a positive for Instagram in relation to gen Z consumers, as it allows them to be aware of safe and practical ways of moving forward with cosmetic surgery procedures if they decide to.

Overall, it is clear that cosmetic surgery is such a large field among gen Z consumers within Instagram, just like fashion trends like the early 2000’s rhinestones, prints and over the top accessories (McDowell, 2020). Even though it can be a toxic area of the platform, in regards to low self-esteem as well as decrease the levels of users’ mental health, Instagram cannot stop users from having such procedures. Therefore, at least these wellknown influencers can inform consumers of the right ways to go about these measures.

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Primary Imagery

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Figure 15 - (Tyler Shields, n.d.)

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chapter 4

INSTAGRAM AS A COMMUNITY

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Figure 16 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

The fourth and final chapter will aspire to study Instagram as a Community and how the app can be used as a support network to help mental health. This final part of the case study will include positive movements such as the #HereForYou campaign, Black Lives Matter Movement and, Gay Pride. In addition, the negative aspects such as individuals not agreeing with certain elements of the movements, will also be addressed.

“Social media breeds positive communities and experiences” – Hannah Forbes (Forbes, 2018).

Some view Instagram or any social media platform a place of escapism, where they can get away from real life problems. Instagram has a hashtag (with over 9 million posts) called #HereForYou, which includes many quotes and a lot of imagery regarding equality as a support system and to raise awareness surrounding the subject (Instagram, 2020). The #HereForYou campaign took place on Instagram in 2017, in order to “increase conversation around mental health” (Leaver, Highfield, & Abidin, 2020) during mental health awareness month. The amount of support and positivity that was spread among this month, portrays Instagram as a support network, helping millions of users around the world with their mental health and well-being. In addition, the fashion industry has various brands/collections attempting to improve and raise awareness regarding mental health. For example, Madhappy used hoodies to market happiness and encourage conversation around mental health (Mau, 2019).

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In addition, the Black Lives Matter Movement (BLM) was and still is an enormous step in the right direction for the black community. The movement started back in 2013 after the murder of George Zimmerman (Matter, 2020), but only properly took to Instagram in 2020. A prominent date for BLM is 2nd June, where approximately 28 million users on the app posted plain black squares as part of #BlackOutTuesday (Ho, 2020). This was a trend across Instagram where users came together as a community to silence the platform and not post anything other than the black square for this particular day, in memory and respect of George Floyd, who was murdered due to police brutality (Coscarelli, 2020). This trend had a momentous meaning behind it in the fight for equality across the Black community and for the future of diversity across the globe. Instagram played a huge part in this movement influencing gen Z consumers in a positive way, to stand up and fight for equality. In addition, a collective of five black fashion designers opened the women’s Fall/Winter fashion shows at Milan Fashion Week back September of 2020, with their We Are Made in Italy initiative (AFP, 2021). Showcasing this significant movement within the fight for equality, while also being an important and strong message for young individuals.

In a 1:1 interview via Zoom conducted by the researcher, focused on a black female (who wishes to remain anonymous), the participant stated that she was proud to see the Movement happen. While viewing consumers using their platforms to speak up and make a difference, inspired and made the interviewee feel proud of who she was.

The interviewee felt empowered to share her own stories to help others, and how the Black Lives Matter Movement made her feel part of something in a significant time. Even if there were other individuals continuing to negatively criticise the remarkable movement, she still chose to focus on the positives in the situation (See Appendix F).

However, an opposing view would be the fact that certain individuals around the world did not accept that Black Lives Matter, but All Lives Matter. Shaka Hislop explains “The issue is that is white lives have always seemed to matter more. What Black Lives Matter as a movement is saying is that all lives matter equally. Black lives have to matter just as much as everybody else’s” (News, Anti-racism: What does the phrase ‘Black Lives Matter’ mean?, 2020).

The idea of Black Lives Matter is to find equality and peace for all races. The main point and goal of the movement is to find justice among all, and to remain to fight for equality which many people seemed to not understand.

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Figure 17 - (Photograph of together we stand black lives matter, n.d.)

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Figure 18 - (Eilish, B, 2020)

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Furthermore, there were plenty of protests for the Black Lives Matter movement, which was showcased on Instagram of everyone coming together as a community. Members of the public who attended these protests, ensured to take photographs to post on the Instagram app, to continue the movement through social media. This suggests that the platform itself is a blessing to allow incredible movements like this occur, setting a great example for gen Z consumers to carry on with the trend of equality.

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Figure 19 - Multiple images, see list of illustrations.

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Another area of conflict and controversial opinions on the Instagram app is the Gay Pride movements and campaigns. Due to Covid-19, Pride events have been postponed for 2020 until it is safe for the public to proceed with mass gatherings (Shop, 2020). Pride month occurs in June, as this is the month when the Stonewall Riots occurred, which changed gay rights for huge amounts of people around the globe. In addition, the 27th June is dedicated to Pride.

(Newsround, 2020). Hashtags on Instagram such as #GayPride and #Pride provide opportunities to make connections all over the world, helping them understand others are going through the same thing as they are, which has a positive impact on their mental health. Numerous fashion brands have created products to promote the LGBTQIA+ community and Gay Pride as a celebration.

For example, Levi’s, who created a Pride themed denim jacket back in 2020, that wrote ‘Use your Voice’ in multiple colours with all proceeds being donated to Outright Action International to not only support Gay Pride, but also give back and help the community (Bevan, 2020).

In contrast, an opposing argument for the Gay Pride movements and campaigns would be religion. Many religions do not agree with civil partnerships, for example, Church of England. They believe “that marriage between a man and a woman is the proper context for sexual intercourse” (Michael, 2020) and therefore same-sex civil partnerships are wrong and should not occur. This suggests, those who agree with these beliefs could leave negative comments, on Instagram, which could then cause unnecessary hurt to the person they are attacking. Instagram is known to be a place of expression and escapism, and while consumers have the freedom to post what they want, it could be seen as unjust when they receive pessimism for living their life the way they choose to. These negative comments could be seen by gen Z consumers and possibly influence them in a negative way. However, a brand that is sending out a great message within the fashion industry for young gen Z individuals is All Saints. They have created a tank top reading ‘All Beings, All Seeing, All Lovin’, All Ways, All Saints’ and donating £10 from every sale to the Kaleidoscope Trust (Bevan, 2020).

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There are also numerous recovery pages on Instagram for mental health illnesses as well as eating disorders which are another great support system on the Instagram app for individuals who are struggling with these sicknesses. For example, Ryan Sheldon (@realryansheldon on Instagram) explained what he went through before finding the strength to change “I lost my job, I was in debt, and I hated myself – and all of this was due to my eating disorder. I thought there was nothing I could do” (Harold, 2020).

Ryan decided to start up an Instagram page with a message of learning to love yourself, whilst being a huge inspiration to many as he is overcoming a huge obstacle, as well as sharing his experiences with others. Again, this acts as a huge support system as it allows others going through the same thing, to have someone to relate to and learn ways to overcome the illness, which has a huge positive impact on mental health. Within the fashion industry, there is a program called the Garment Project providing women who are undertaking recovery programs with brand new, sizeless and tag-less clothing for free helping make it a little bit easier while the clients go through their recovery process (Dupere, 2017).

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Figure 20 - (Sheldon, R, 2019)

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Figure 21 - (OMA The Label, 2021)

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Figure 1 - (Photograph of nude shades, n.d.)

Leading on from this, in a recent focus group conducted by the researcher regarding body image in regards to Instagram; it was a general response that the level of support networks on the app is very high, but there is a lack of pages aimed at men which could be seen as unjust. (See Appendix D). Also, there is a possibility that these pages could be triggering to individuals undertaking recovery, even though they are created with the right intentions.

In addition, it was also suggested by an interviewee, within a 1:1 interview via Zoom, that there are a large quantity of pages and accounts that put out information and helping people in the gay community. The participant also stated it definitely helped her when she came out, by referring to Instagram to view how others dealt with their situations (See Appendix F).

Overall, these areas of conversation portray how Instagram allows users across the world to connect, as well as bring people together as a community. These campaigns and movements form support networks for individuals surrounding the subjects which increases and helps their mental health, as they are aware they are not the only ones going through it, which could really benefit mental health and help gen Z consumers.

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Conclusion To conclude, it is clear that there are both positive and negative elements of the Instagram app, although this is uniformly the consumers using the platform, as well as the app itself. Negative and positive comments can equally affect individuals’ mental health. However, Instagram have introduced measures in order to try and decrease the amount of negativity within the app. Even though there are elements such as ‘cosmetic surgery’ filters present on Instagram, the creators of the platform have also now put measures into place to lessen the impact of this on users’ mental health. The Instagram team are doing what they can to positively impact mental health, however, there is only so much they can do when users are only posting the best parts of their lives and tricking users into thinking they have a perfect life. Instagram could be seen as both, beneficial and damaging to gen Z consumers due to several factors that tie into this subject. Social media can be a dangerous place due to the toxicity of users, but could equally be seen as an inspiring place in regards to the support systems and inspirational individuals utilising their platforms for optimistic reasons.

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Instagram can be seen as an extremely inspirational and relative place because of the communities on the app that have previously been mentioned. There are even some Instagram pages dedicated to communities like this, such as Gay Pride Apparel (@gayprideapparel on Instagram) who produce high quality apparel focused around Gay Pride (Apparel, 2021). Pages like this support individuals within the community who can relate and pride themselves on being their true selves. Even though there are many users who can be negative towards pages and communities like this, Instagram is portraying great things through the use of support networks. In regards to users on the app leaving negative comments on posts, there is only so much Instagram as a company can do. In addition, the fact there are several brands producing products to support and raise awareness of motivating events such as Gay Pride and Black Lives Matter, allows Instagram to help promote these revolutionary movements. However, they have implemented features within the app to try and make consumers think before they leave any hate, which is a huge win for mental health (Petter, 2019).

Also, it is clear that influencers bring a lot of revenue and attraction to the photo based app, making Instagram money while also providing entertainment to consumers.

However, this revenue and attraction is not always in a positive way. Trolling and negative comments are always going to be a big threat to these types of individuals who put themselves out there on the app which can clearly affect mental health in a damaging way. There is always the option given by Instagram to disable the comments section, disallowing users to leave any comments and therefore, decreasing the amount of hate (O’Brien, 2016). To summarise, even though there are several negative aspects of Instagram that are possibly never going to be changed, a number of these negative elements within the app, have been/ have attempted to be tackled by the Instagram team to lessen negative affect on one’s mental health. This could be seen as greatly appreciated by users, as they are doing everything that they can to make the app a safer and better place for all consumers.

Figure 22 - (Gay Pride Apparel, 2021)

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List of Illustrations

Figure 1 - Photograph of nude shades pattern [Photograph]. (n.d.). Pinterest. Retrieved From: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/65020788359275470/ Figure 2 - Photograph of nails [Photograph]. (2020). Twitter. Retrieved From: https://mobile. twitter.com/margielamilk/status/1235573826605346816 Figure 2 - Oanh. (2020). When life gives you lemonade, make lemons, Life will be all like whaaat??. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CD1dQQYB5AI/?igshid=2qhw8k2kcfd8&epik=dj0yJnU9UXZNck5nSWEtRC1KWkVHRWdPeW91TjZreGszY3JiX0YmcD0wJm49d3YyZ0xOR19uRDJXYllxcGlhQnFxUSZ0PUFBQUFBR0NRSTAw Figure 2 - Photograph of model’s back and underwear [Photograph]. (2020). Psyche. Retrieved From: https://vocal.media/psyche/body-image-and-social-media Figure 2 - Outcast Clothing. (2021). Estee mini dress pre order. Outcast Clothing. Retrieved From: https://outcast-clothing.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/estee-mini-dress-pre-order?pp=0&epik=dj0yJnU9SG40ZEMzTnJ6ZG9hb043Q19SakQ1VjBBTHpxVTN3elgmcD0xJm49YVBHd1lUTW5yWVVMUFlfbGhGMExIUSZ0PUFBQUFBR0NRSllR Figure 2 - Photograph of woman in white underwear [Photograph]. (2019). Tumblr. Retrieved From: https://femmeplastic.tumblr.com/post/175001608104/abbey-mag-by-laura-du-ve-lauraduvephotocom Figure 3 - Photograph of static TV noise 1080P with sound [Photograph]. (2021). Pond5. Retrieved From: https://www.pond5.com/stock-footage/item/2260027-static-tv-noise-1080psound?ref=getmedia Figure 3 - Photograph of girl taking a picture of herself in a mirror [Photograph]. (n.d.). Pinterest. Retrieved From: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/rubyrose_/_created/ Figure 3 - Google. (n.d.). Instagram template png & free Instagram template [Photograph].

Google. Retrieved From: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/725149977500041082/

Figure 4 - Photograph of heart shaped tweets [Photograph]. (2016). Twitter. Retrieved From: https://twitter.com/awd_ua/status/698596850400698368 Figure 4 - Photograph of Instagram likes [Photograph]. (2021). Cliply. Retrieved From: https:// cliply.co/clip/instagram-likes/ Figure 5 - Oh Polly. (2021). Crossover ruched mesh mini dress in orange [Photograph]. Oh Polly.

Retrieved From: https://www.ohpolly.com/out-of-this-world-keyhole-ruched-mesh-mini-dressorange Figure 6 - London, N. (2021). Happy women’s day [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CMK9kJZJ06s/

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Figure 7 - Photograph of body close up [Photograph]. (2020). Droach on Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CItTzwIHHLx/

Figure 8 - Dove. (2019). Inclusive women all holding hands [Photograph]. Luxeva. Retrieved From: https://www.luxeva.com/2019/06/real-beauty-fenty-s-all-embracing-imagery-opensdoors-to-a-more-inclusive-future/ Figure 9 - Devito, P. (2018). (Is acne acceptance next in the beauty industry’s body positivity movement? [Photograph]. Fashion Magazine. Retrieved From: https://fashionmagazine. com/face-body/acne-acceptance-beauty-industry/ Figure 10 - Photograph of Jameela Jamil at the 2019 GQ men of the year west Hollywood [Photograph]. (2019). Got Celeb. Retrieved From: https://www.gotceleb.com/category/ jameela-jamil

Figure 10 - Crabbe, M. (2021). You get both bc I’m getting right with both [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CLATRUwnCBG/

Figure 10 - Beeating, L. (2021). Lizzo Beeating in a bikini. Instagram. Retrieved From: https:// www.instagram.com/p/CMIaPi9Ms06/

Figure 10 - Rihanna. (2020). Rihanna in a black Savage Fenty set and heels. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_nrbNPndh0/ Figure 10 - London, N. (2021). You have so much to offer as the person you are right now in this very minute [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/ CLM629fpZev/ Figure 10 - London, N. (2021). Just giving my body the unconditional love it deserves [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/COYgNJOJ9O8/

Figure 11 - Shields, T. (n.d.). Lips and needle [Photograph]. Guy Hepner. Retrieved From: https://www.guyhepner.com/artists/tyler-shields/ Figure 12 - Photograph of lips and needle [Photograph]. (n.d.). Kalon Beauty Bar Facebook Page. Retrieved From: https://www.facebook.com/kalonbeautybarpinchercreek/services

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Figure 12 - Daly, R. (2016). Image of needle in lips [Photograph]. Net Doctor. Retrieved From: https://www.netdoctor.co.uk/beauty/a27230/what-to-know-before-getting-lip-fillersinjections/ Figure 12 - Photograph of glossy skin [Photograph]. (n.d.). We Heart It. Retrieved From: https://weheartit.com/entry/344418726 Figure 12 - Photograph of Bratz Doll with cosmetic surgery markings on her face [Photograph]. (n.d.). Red Bubble. Retrieved From: https://www.redbubble.com/i/sticker/ Plastic-Surgery-Bratz-Doll-by-DrMadrid/24600623.EJUG5?epik=dj0yJnU9MGYwaFVTeV9odEhQUzUzOTU3U3YwNlo4Z1AtckpNZTcmcD0wJm49MHI0UndOMVVCTDREd0ljV0JIZmVvUSZ0PUFBQUFBR0JPWFAw Figure 12 - Photograph of ice cube in mouth [Photograph]. (n.d.). Attractive Aesthetics on Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.etsy.com/listing/866883583/120-pink-boujee-baddie-collage-aesthetic?epik=dj0yJnU9cGVnLUxYejlLWG5BOG15ZHpnNVB3cU44TlZNNHUwM18mcD0wJm49WUZ1UDE4MkdibmRLVnM5RGM5MVVWdyZ0PUFBQUFBR0JPZDk4 Figure 13 - Harriet Chadwick. (2021). Harriet’s body and wearing a green, white and blue sweater vest on her Instagram [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/COQtijAh-sR/ Figure 13 - Harriet Chadwick. (2021). Harriet in a nude sweater vest on her Instagram [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CM0TiLWBI6J/

Figure 13 - Harriet Chadwick. (2021). Harriet in a black coat on her Instagram [Photograph].

Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CLkOu23B6aw/

Figure 13 - Harriet Chadwick. (2021). Close up of Harriet’s face on her Instagram [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CJy09AvBBct/

Figure 14 - Jenner, K. (2018). Yo-Yo Lip Filler, A Dangerous Plastic Surgery Trend, Is Blowing Up. Retrieved from Dazed Digital: https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/head/article/47488/1/lip-filler-removal-dissolved-plastic-surgery-trend-kylie-jenner-farrah-abraham Figure 15 - Tyler Shields. (n.d.). Silhouette of hands reaching for each other [Photograph].

Guy Hepner. Retrieved From: https://www.guyhepner.com/artist/tyler-shields/silhouettes-by-tyler-shields/

Figure 16 - Lafalaise Dion. (2020). Image of shells on hair [Photograph]. Essence. Retrieved From: https://www.essence.com/fashion/lafalaise-dion-queen-of-cowrie/

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Figure 16 - Michael Bailey-Gates. (2018). Image of model in see through top [Photograph]. The WOW Report. Retrieved From: https://worldofwonder.net/ageofaquaria-have-you-seen-aquarias-unrecognizable-vogue-italia-spread-moschino-campaign/

Figure 16 - Eric Magnussen. (2021). Image of model in red jacket [Photograph]. Phosphenes.

Retrieved From: http://desphosphenes.com/2017/05/23/the-age-of-aquaria/

Figure 16 - Tawni Bannister. (2017). Image of Sasha Velour in pink outfit [Photograph]. Time Out. Retrieved From: https://www.timeout.com/newyork/lgbt/sasha-velour-talks-touring-theworld-as-winner-of-rupauls-drag-race

Figure 17 -Photograph of together we stand black lives matter [Photograph]. (n.d.). Etsy.

Retrieved From: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/804736924/together-we-stand-black-livesmatter?ref=shop_review

Figure 18 - Eilish, B. (2020). Billie Eilish at BLM protest [Photograph]. The Independent. Retrieved From: https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/music/news/billie-eilishblack-lives-matter-protest-knee-george-floyd-police-a9550376.html

Figure 19 - Levi’s. (2020). Levi’s pride the trucker jacket – denim jacket [Photograph]. Zalando. Retrieved From: https://www.zalando.co.uk/levis-pride-the-trucker-jacket-denim-jacketblue-denim-le222t02g-k11.html

Figure 19 - All Saints. (2020). All Saints pride crew t-shirt [Photograph]. Endource. Retrieved From: https://www.endource.com/product/all-saints-pride-crew-t-shirt/XSCp7cnnfAABSQl0

Figure 19 - All Saints. (n.d.). All Saints pride immy tank – top [Photograph]. Zalando. Retrieved From: https://www.zalando.co.uk/allsaints-pride-immy-tank-top-blacka0q21d06r-q11.html Figure 20 - Sheldon, R. (2019). Image of Ryan Sheldon on his Instagram [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/BwvWaeKg10t/

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Figure 21 - OMA The Label. (2021). Woman wearing earrings [Photograph]. OMA The Label. Retrieved From: https://omathelabel.com/products/obi-hoop?_pos=1&_ sid=0fd228846&_ss=r&variant=37922925740226

Figure 22 - Gay Pride Apparel. (2021). Be good to people for no reason quote [Photograph]. Instagram. Retrieved From: https://www.instagram.com/p/CONqqOshB-0/

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