Slogans and emergencies/1 There are many topics in discussion in the Italian wine scene in light of the challenges of the coming years. Despite heated debate and proclamations on many occasions, the European Union has delayed banning glyphosate, powerful herbicide that (apparently) poses a risk to human health. Italy and France were against it, but until 2022 it will be used legally. There are even those who claim that it's one of the least toxic of possible herbicides and many contest the research that has come to contrary conclusions. So far, only the dairy farms in South Tyrol have banned it permanently in fodder crops since last July. Fruit growers and non-organic wine producers can continue to use it, and so can all those in other regions, even if the Province of Trento and various consortia (Venetian Prosecco Doc and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Docg in the lead) announce an imminent – but not yet effective – ban. To the Italian slogans the French respond in great style: from 2025 Champagne will no longer use herbicides and from 2030 all the vineyards of the appellation will have a sustainability certification. For those who believe that once this problem will be solved it will all be well, remember that another major problem of viticulture (and agriculture) including of the eco-friendly kind, is the accumulation of copper in the soil: the organica and biodynamic protocols (with different limitations) allow the use of copper-based compounds as treatments for downy mildew and others. Unfortunately, however, this heavy metal accumulates in the soil and jeopardizes micro-organisms and insects that are fundamental for the health of the vineyard and for the soil's biodiversity. For copper, the EU has set new quantity limits ( from 6 to 4 kg per hectare, annually) but has extended the possibility of using the current for a further 5 years, pending possible alternatives that as of now are nonexistent. The main opposition to this provision was advanced by organic and biodynamic producers, who see in copper compounds the only defense weapon they have, given they cannot use alternative synthetic molecules. Certainly it's a paradox: those who make the natural approach their philosophy don't want to give up on a compound that is certainly harmful to the environment. Back onto the herbicide in question, glyphosate, whose danger has not yet been proven, its ban is a goal pursued (even if never achieved) by many in the name of the environment and of human health. In short, these are all emergencies... But so far, although concrete research often provides alternatives, we have seen very little apart from slogans and policy statements. Italian wine, which should (and could) be the most natural and sustainable in the world, risks losing image and credibility. — Marco Sabellico
GAMBERO ROSSO
4
DECEMBER 2018