Wine Travel Food Gambero Rosso June 2020

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

HERE'S HOW THE WORLD OF WINE IS RESPONDING TO

THE CHALLENGE SCIACCHETRÀ

THE SYMBOLIC WINE OF THE CINQUE TERRE

year 22 - number 140 - june 2020 - gamberorosso.it

CHEF&RECIPES: LIPPI

SOMMARIO WINE

T R AV E L

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FOOD

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HERE'S HOW THE WORLD OF WINE IS RESPONDING TO

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Editorial: The Challenges and the Experience News Wine of the Month Seasonal Cocktail My Import & My Export Gambero Rosso & Friends Top Italian Restaurants: Miami Wine after Covid Sciacchetrà. The symbolic wine of the Cinque Terre Recipes: Daniele Lippi

THE CHALLENGE SCIACCHETRÀ

THE SYMBOLIC WINE OF THE CINQUE TERRE

CHEF&RECIPES: LIPPI

year 22 - number 140 - june 2020 - gamberorosso.it

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The Challenges and the Experience The great experience and sagacity of the wine producers is facing new challenges. Covid-19 forced almost all restaurants in Italy and worldwide to close. In recent decades, Italian wine had conquered a high level position not only like in the past for the quantities produced but for quality and competitiveness.

Now this unstoppable phenomenon has had to stop and the crisis is compromising the year’s economy. The main challenge will be starting over, it takes determination and perhaps even stubbornness, but at this moment, in this elusive phase 2 it’s also necessary to reflect on the many pre-existing weaknesses because probably there will be opportunities for those who will deal with new visions, new strategies, new organizations and why not with more robust teams. This issue of Gambero Rosso collects multiple and multifaceted opinions, but also cries of pain of passionate entrepreneurs who fear being abandoned to a sad fate, seeing continuing as something impossible, the risk of layoffs and the loss of market shares up to then laboriously and deservedly conquered. On paper our rulers defend the economy and always mention how the creativity of fine foods and beverages has contributed to divulging the high reputation that Italy enjoys and to defend GDP and export even in the very long stagnation of the last decade, without forgetting the decisive role of tourism. I said on paper because in fact funds for farm protection are scarce even in the agricultural field and will be accessible through tough procedures.

With the huge income reduction and the inevitable growth of unemployment, Italian wine will have only one way to go, to export. We have discussed it for a long time with the leaders of ICE, which is aware that – as the Gambero Rosso Guides in its multiple translations, countless promotional events, master classes in the capitals of the world – are and will be at the service of top wine excellences. However, we must hurry, since the markets are reopening and our delays can leave room for bottles coming from other countries. This must not happen and we, in our own small way, will fight to avoid it.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

NEWS

ITALIAN AGRICULTURE IS THE GREENEST IN EUROPE

PEOPLE. MARILISA ALLEGRINI KNIGHTED “CAVALIERE DEL LAVORO”

Record 20% cut in the use of pesticides in Italian agriculture, which far exceeds European competitors. Coldiretti announced this in reference to the latest Eurostat report for the 2011 to 2018 period, which instead recorded a 39% increase in France.

Italy is furthermore a leader in biodiversity, with just 7.2% of all emissions at national level with 30 million tons of CO2 equivalent in Italy, compared to the 76 million tons produced in France, 66 million tons in Germany, 41 million in the United Kingdom and 39 million in Spain. Last but not least, Italy is also the fourth largest biogas producer in the world with over two thousand factories, 77% of which operate with agricultural residue.

Marilisa Allegrini was knighted Cavaliere del Lavoro by the Italian President Sergio Mattarella. “Being appointed makes me proud as a woman, an entrepreneur in the wine sector” comments Allegrini “whom I have tried to bring value to throughout my business trips around the world, and finally as a Veronese and Veneto woman, born in a land of great industriousness. The certification of which I am honoured happens at a very difficult moment for the economy and livelihood of our country and I hope it represents a sign of hope and redemption that we all need.” Another 24 were awarded the title. For the food industry Luciano Martini (founder of Unigrà) and Mario Frandino (Sedamyl). In the food trade, President Mattarella appointed Giorgia Serrati Teglio (Icat food) from Liguria.

ITAL IAN/ EN EDIT GLISH

ION

A guide to the best extra virgin olive oil

GAMBERO ROSSO

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www.gamberorosso.it JUNE 2020

NEWS

PHOTO NEWS

AN ANCIENT ROMAN MOSAIC DISCOVERED UNDER A VINEYARD IN VALPOLICELLA A veritable treasure was found under the Negrar vineyards. In this case, it’s not a question of wine but rather the mosaics of an ancient Roman villa of the III century brought to light in good condition, and whose photos have already travelled around the world, given the immense value of the discovery. The excavations, under the direction of archaeologist Gianni de Zuccato, began in October 2019, after decades of waiting. Then, Coronavirus halted the dig once again, until the past few days. “Technicians of the Superintendence of Verona” reads the note of the Municipality of Negrar in Valpolicella “with a targeted core drilling, are partially uncovering the remains of the artifact still present under a few meters of soil, with a specific objective: to identify the exact extension and exact location of the ancient building.

Subsequently, the Superintendency will liaise with the owners of the area (this is a privately owned vineyard; Ed.) and with the Municipality to identify the most appropriate ways to make this archaeological treasure until now hidden under our feet available and visitable”. The intention is to open the area to visitors, as Mayor Roberto Grison immediately declared to the newspaper L’Arena: “We believe that a cultural site of this value deserves attention and should be valued. For this reason, together with the Superintendency and the private individuals of the agricultural funds, we will find a way to make this treasure enjoyable.” The timetable, the Municipality clarifies, will however be long. But what will a few decades be compared to almost 2,000 years of waiting?

photo: Comune di Negar di Valpolicella

GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

NEWS

“A LOVE STORY” Work is not a job if it isn’t done with passion. How many times have we heard this phrase? So many. For whom is it really so?

Few. I am among these.

Being a restaurateur is more than a passion for me, it is life. I was actually born in a restaurant and from that moment it has always been my home.The noise of the kitchen in full service, the screams of the chef, the waiters who move to the rhythm of the courses served, the voices of the diners, the laughter, the tears... you’ll think “what a racket!”, A noise that, to my ears , is better than rock’n’roll.

But the restaurant business is also giving up stuff: it means not having schedules, it means taking risks… a dish doesn’t get a second chance and if you get it wrong, you fail. It means questioning yourself every single day, covering miles and miles to find the perfect ingredient... it’s giving up on parties, on family...

In short, you’re there day after day, between kitchen, dining room, amid the customers and in the end you don’t know what time it is and how long you’ve been there. You work while others celebrate, you focus while others relax, you don’t drink while others enjoy a good glass of wine... Yet there is something that keeps you there, nailed to the job, that makes you get up every morning with the awareness that with your dishes you can make people happy. Yes, people.

How important are they? For me they count more than anything else, and I try to please them by doing the simplest thing in the world, feeding them.

For this reason I will continue to do what I do and I know it will be hard, that we will want to throw in the towel and give up, but I want to tell you one thing, my dear colleagues: even if Covid-19 has broken us and many of us can’t reopen we must remember that what we do is important. We make people forget about problems and make them feel what they really are: special. We take care of them... that’s why we can’t give up.

Francesco PANELLA GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

NEWS

FAREWELL TO SIRIO MACCIONI, LEGENDARY ITALIAN RESTAURATEUR IN NEW YORK

The great thing about having a history is keep writing its future.

Recently turned 88 years old, in his Tuscan home in Montecatini, Sirio Maccioni passed away at the end of April after a life spent promoting the model of Italian hospitality in New York. From 1974 at the helm of Le Cirque, over the course of decades of work, Maccioni managed to enchant the American jet set. Starting off with very little, believing in the American dream, his rise began in the days of the Colony Hotel, where he worked as Maître D’Hotel. Then Le Cirque, in the renowned Mayfair Hotel, this time as owner.

Inspired by French cuisine, the restaurant is actually a tribute to the culture of the Italian table. The New York public loved it. Now that the company has grown, becoming a brand with international appeal, the three sons of Sirio, Mauro, Mario and Marco continue in his legacy.

MONINI TURNS 100 AND CELEBRATES IN THE NAME OF SUSTAINABILITY AND QUALITY

For our 150th anniversary we have brought together our principles in the Zeni Method 1870: our way of celebrating the past, our way of imagining the future.

Zeni Method 1870 was born from the history of the Zeni brand and was codified on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the winery. A century and a half, 5 generations and 5 pillars support the Zeni Method 1870: the biodiversity cultivated in the vineyard, the quality pursued with innovation in the cellar, the value of the Cru set by Nino Zeni, the dissemination of wine culture, the active role of the family. Five beliefs that have brought us this far and that will accompany us in every future evolution, accepting the challenge to grow while remaining true to ourselves.

“If today we had to do it all over again, we would change very little of what we did yesterday. The present, on the other hand, requires a profound reflection: the new generations are demanding we move towards making the world a better place”. This is how Maria Flora and Zefferino Monini celebrate 100 years of their brand, one of the most powerful and evocative brands of Made in Italy food. And it’s in this spirit that the Monini brothers make concrete commitments “to make the world truly better,” through a ten-year Sustainability Plan which includes the planting of one million olive trees in 10 years with organic, controlled and tracked cultivation. In addition to the adoption, in 2020, of 100 thousand bees: the first sentinels of environmental health. “Monini’s commitment is also directed to the high quality of Italian extra virgin olive oil - said the owners of the olive oil industry and the Trevi oil mill - and to its traceability, as well as to its “container”, with the aim of achieving 100% recycled glass bottles within the year”.

Zeni 1870 - Araldo + Logo - Colore

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JUNE 2020

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH

TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO 2019 TENUTA I FAURI Via Masci, 151 Chieti (CH) www.tenutaifauri.it/ Average retail price: 7 euros

Oh, what a lovely Trebbiano. The wine of the month takes us to the cellar of Valentina and Luigi Di Camillo, founded in 1979 by their father Domenico.

The plots are distributed between Majella and Adriatico, in the municipalities of Chieti, Francavilla al Mare, Miglianico, Villamagna, Bucchianico and Ari. In the vineyards nature is fully respected with integrated vineyard management; while in the cellar efforts enhance the territory’s imprint and natural expression in the wine using spontaneous fermentation and maturation in steel vats or cement tanks. What do we like about this Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2019? Everything! It’s the prototype of the great every-day wine. The colour is reminiscent of ancient gold reflections, and the bouquet! Starting from that light cellar note that reminds us of the great Trebbiano wines of the past and which already makes us hungry for well-seasoned cured meats, like a slice of mortadella or culatello. This is followed by a classic note of freshly toasted almonds. In the background, fresher notes of peach tea. The mouth is very enjoyable, with a creamy and pleasant fruit, immediate, for a relaxed and laid back sip. The mature and enveloping tones are well contrasted by a very light tannic accent, in a wine that makes everything seem so simple and graceful. The price further widens our smile, considering––beside the pleasantness – also the complexity that this wine releases. We tasted it at lunch paired with carbonara, served at a slightly higher than usual temperature, around 12 degrees C, it was perfect. Although we did enjoy it in the evening as well, paired with a plate of vignarola (sautéed fava beans, artichokes, peas, guanciale and a fine dusting of pecorino cheese) which prompted somersaults out of our chairs.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

“Et però credo che molta felicità sia agli uomini che nascono dove si trovano i vini buoni.”

rgbcomunicazione.it

-Leonardo Da Vinci

Pighin Aziende Agricole in Friuli www.pinotgrigiopighin.com www.pighin.com

SPIRITS

SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL SEASONAL

by byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli

ACQUA VITALE Gegam Kazarian Kazari’s Project - Alicante 4,5 cl Grappa Ceschia Nemas Bianca - 2,5 cl Molinari Sambuca Extra - 1 cl Nardini acqua di cedro 5 Ligurian basil leaves - 2,5 cl juice of Sorrento IGP lemons - 4,5 cl vegetal water (150 g fresh Pachino tomato 200 g Trentino green apple, - 100 g Marostica cherries - 20 g ginger - 1,5 cl apple cider vinegar)

Glass: Coppa Coupette Technique: Clarification, Shake & Double Strain

T

his is a simple cocktail in terms of taste and one that's easily replicable, yet highly evocative.

A hymn to Italy, to which Gegam is particularly attached, with a journey through history, colours and flavours of the places he visited. By idealising the image of the Roman aqueduct as a territorial connection, water becomes a vital element, the very soul in the production of spirits and in the creation of cocktails. The alcoholic support of grappa is sweetened by sambuca, to which are added the freshness of cedar water, fresh basil and vegetal notes, with a sour touch thanks to the water obtained by clarifying tomato juice, green apple, cherries, ginger and apple cider vinegar. A colourful, fresh and thirst-quenching drink, perfect for the start of the summer season. Kenats!

(Salute! In Armenian).

BARTENDER: Born in Armenia, in the city of Yerevan, in 1980, Gegam Kazarian studied biochemistry, architecture and interior design. But his real higher education was to travel the world. He focused on hospitality, cooking, pastry art and mixology, concentrating all his knowledge in the latter, blending in his love for art, Asian philosophy, Ayurvedic nutrition and Japanese culture. In Alicante, Spain, where he now lives, he founded Kazari’s Project: an experimental laboratory Kazari’s Lab GeKijo, a cocktail bar restaurant Meraki 13, an audiovisual production studio Kazari’s Audio Visual Art and finally GeKinez-do, a training project for health and the well-being for bartenders through martial arts. Present in the most important international events in the sector, he collaborates with the SDGC group of Joël Robuchon. Gary Regan called him “the bartender of the Renaissance”.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

NEWS

MY IMPORT Laws and trends change, Russia revises its relationship with wine “The Russian market, explained”, interview with Anayoly Korneev, co-founder of Simple Wine, absolute leader in the field of Italian wine in Russia with 80 suppliers. Among the most popular brands are Frescobaldi, Tenuta San Guido, Bertani

1 What must companies understand about the Russian market? What are the peculiarities of the market?

The volume of per capita wine consumption in Russia is officially 8 liters. The total volume of wine consumption in 2019 was 11 million hectoliters. Unfortunately, of these, only 7 million hectoliters are wine (according to European regulations, i.e. wine made from grapes, must or grape juice). All the rest is an additional category of beverages containing wine. To change this situation, Federal Law 468 on wine and viticulture, which will name “wine” only the product obtained from crushed grapes or berries or grape juice, should enter into force on July 1st. The second problem that exists in the Russian Federation is the proportion between Russian wine and imported bottled wine, which represents 60% for Russian wine and 40% for imported wine. But within the Russian wine compartment, about 60% is imported bulk wine. The area of the vineyards in the Russian Federation is approximately 90,000 hectares, but one third is used for the production of brandy. Therefore, we have a shortage of our wine areas. The law will change in such a way that viticulture will become a priority. In this regard, importers and exporters do not have to worry, because the substitution will take place in the category of Russian wine with Russian wine, which will improve.

This process will take approximately 5-10 years. In addition, we must also consider that we have very high taxation, the price of the seller ex-cellar is charged 3.5-4 times. In addition, the market is saturated and sales are limited to the large cities of the Russian Federation. Competition is tough. In the Russian Federation, the advertising law does not allow the promotion of alcoholic beverages and even online sales are prohibited by law.

2 What kind of upheavals has Covid brought to the Russian market? What type of wine are you focussing onfor post-Covid?

It’s still early to make evaluations. The national currency went from 68 to 77 rubles, weakening by 12%. Alcohol sales have increased, while the average price at the cash register has decreased. There is a lot of talk about the right value for money of the new denominations. The population is losing income and doesn’t know what will happen, for sure people will continue to spend on products that they already know. But nobody is psychologically ready to fall into a lower category, so alternatives are being sought. Customers have stopped drinking Chianti Classico Riserva and are discovering, for example, Rosso Conero or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Or, instead of Barolo, they’re choosing wine with fine and elegant structure, like Gattinara. People are willing to experiment. There are absolutely no problems with Super Tuscans. The rich remain rich, the middle class becomes poorer and the poor get even poorer. These are the laws of every serious crisis.

3 How do you see the future of wine in Russia? Will consumption grow? Is there ample room for growth in post-Covid?

Positively. Most likely there will be a loosening of the law on advertising and selling at a distance. Great growth cannot be expected in the post-pandemic period. Most likely, all countries will lose in import. Because now due to the collapse of the ruble, Russians will drink much more Russian wine, especially because the quality will increase. But it will be only a period of maximum 2-3 years, afterward it will return to normal. The fall will not be deep.

4 How do you see the future of the Russian restaurant/dining business? Will many wine bars continue to open? Which dining format is Russia headed towards?

We are witnessing a contraction in the restaurant market. My prediction is that 10-15% will close by the end of the year. Other new ones will open in their place. For the market, this situation will be a god cleanse. Those who were due to retire last year will leave. The wine bars will open, but I think the market will freeze for a year. This will increase the efficiency of existing businesses. dining market|willDolegna shrink, but will become professional. For the wine market this is all very positive.  Jermann The | Loc. Ruttars delitCollio (GO) more | www.jermann.it

GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

NEWS

MY EXPORT Graziano Prà – Azienda agricola Prà 1 What is the percentage of exports out of the company total?

We invoice 86% abroad and mainly in the USA, Canada, Norway, Germany. To date we are present on 40 markets, but we are focusing heavily on the domestic market, where we still have ample room for growth. Clearly our plans are frozen because of the current situation.

2 What’s changed and how are exports going, given the lockdown?

Ontrade, our reference channel, is blocked worldwide from Australia to Alaska. Online sales are still rather limited and in general we only get sporadic orders and very small volume. The only markets that are truly functioning are the Nordic and Canadian monopolies. Fortunately having references of Soave Classico, consolidated for years, we find an almost 100% increase in sales for both Quebec, Norway and Finland. This allows us for now to face fixed costs and not to delay payments to suppliers.

3 How’s the bureaucracy?

Unfortunately, bureaucracy remains one of our biggest problems. A case in point in the last few days concerns the “VAT refund”, on the work of 2019, which we request every year as a farm business with a special tax regime. By exporting more than 80%, in fact, we are entitled to a substantial annual refund. The practice includes sending paperwork to the collection agency ex-Equitalia, during this period of the year. But now the offices are closed and the reopening date is unknown; in our opinion there should be no issue in resolving everything via email, but apparently it’s not possible. We wait in uncertainty.

4 How will you promote your wine on international markets and how are you managing it during this emergency period?

We normally travel a lot: this is our investment. We organize dinners, events, visit restaurateurs and educate agents.

At this particular time, however, we are focusing on social media and we are being interviewed and asked to attend conferences on various channels. We try to send positive messages and show our daily lives. In fact, we also took this period as a moment of reflection on ourselves. For example, in addition to the organic certification, which we already have, we are investigating the topic of biodiversity in the vineyard.

 Azienda agricola Prà | Monteforte d’Alpone | Verona| vinipra.it

GAMBERO ROSSO

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EVENTS

GAMBERO ROSSO & FRIENDS

24 HOURS IN TOKYO by kyoko nakayama

Kyoko is Forbes Japan official columnist. After working as a TV announcer, she is now a judge at the World Restaurant Awards.

She reviews restaurants in Singapore and Japanese magazines. Her hobbies? Climbing Kilimanjaro and traveling to unexplored countries. Currently, she has been to 50 countries.

How do you see the recovery of the restaurant scene in Tokyo? Which will be the key topics for the post-covid time?

Tokyo entered phase two of virus plan, so no longer under the state of emergency, but it would take a bit more time for the people to go back to the restaurants like before.

Neighborhood restaurants are okay, but in general, fine dining serving multiple courses doesn’t have much diners. “Avoiding the three Cs� (1. Closed spaces with poor ventilation. 2. Crowded places with many people nearby. 3.

Close-contact settings) is the base strategy in Japan, so during state of emergency, people had been avoid staying in the closed spaces, such as restaurants. Now, in Tokyo is good weather, so lots of casual restaurants open its door and has decent number of the customers. But for the fine dining, it is difficult, because of the structure of the building, so in that case, some restaurants open the alfresco seats. So, I find 3 key-topics. First of all, Avoiding the three Cs. Some restaurants offer the casual menu for local repeaters. But at the same timing, some restaurants need to raise the price, since the space between the tables is larger than before, so they cannot serve as many people compare to before Covid. Also they lost lots of money under nearly two-months-long state of emergency. This is tough dilemma for the restaurants. This crisis make the restaurant owners to recognize that the importance of diversification of business. The restaurants put lots of power for take away and delivery during these under Covid situation, some continuously doing it. The ratio of revenue is not high (compare to the normal service), but it is more stable than waiting the diners in the restaurants. This can be another pillar income of the restaurants.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

WORLDTOUR

Imagine to build a 24 hours foodie experience in Tokyo. Where would you bring me and why?

[Breakfast] Toyosu fish market If you could wake up very early in the morning, let’s have breakfast at a sushi restaurant in Toyosu. During this period of the time, as of now, you cannot see the auction, but some sushi restaurants in the area is opening (usually these sushi place would open at 5am) and you could feel the vibes of the Japan’s largest and finest fish market.

[Lunch] Hyotei Tokyo Maybe you’d take a short nap, after that, we’ll head to Hibiya. (The place is walking distance from Ginza, so before/ after lunch, you could enjoy the shopping, too).

Lunch at Hyotei Tokyo, 15th generation Kyoto-kaiseki chef Yoshihiro Takahashi is taking care of Kyoto and Tokyo outlet. In Tokyo, he is offering authentic Kyoto cuisine in counter style. It is formal place, but not that stiff. Love the refined flavors, elegance of interior and the decoration in the traditional manner as well.

[Dinner] Shirosaka It has been a long day, so for the diner, I would bring you a bit more relaxed place. Shirosaka, the chef Hideki Ii used to work for chef Tetsuya Wakuda, so his speciality is charcoal grilling, like charcoal grilled wagyu lightly braised in dashi. The cuisine has a bit of western twist, but very much Japanese food. The service is very warm, too. Both the chef and the manager speak very fluent English.

[After Dinner 1 snack] Pizza bar on 38th If you miss Italian food after dinner, I would bring you to pizza bar on 38th, you could bite chef Daniele’s piping hot ultra crispy pizza and small dishes using Japanese and Italian ingredients, which would give you comfort.

[After Dinner 2 cocktails] Bvlgari bar If you need more drink, let’s go to Bvlgari bar! They introduced new bar menu, more experimental than before.

[Aperitif] Sakurai Japanese tea experience I would bring you to “Sakurai Houjicha Kenkyusyo” the bar using quality Japanese tea and making special cocktails with tea ceremony manner. Very ‘zen’ atmosphere, they also have tea cocktail course as well. You also could buy some quality tea leaves of your choice for your family and friends.

[After Dinner 3 more cocktails] Bar High Five If you’d like to try classic Japanese bar, this would be the perfect place. The owner bartender, legendary Hidetsugu Ueno’s shake is great. What to order? My recommendation is “White Lady”. You would be amazed beautiful thin layer of crushed ice by the shake.

JUNE 2020

EVENTS

[After Dinner 4 for boozy night] The SG Club Still got energy?? Then, how about going to The SG club? This bar is led by Shingo Gokan, World’s No.1 bartender (he was picked as “International Bartender of the Year at “Tales of the Cocktail: The Spirited Awards”) opened this hip place in Shibuya. The first floor is called ‘Guzzle’, casual bar, you could be seated or you also can stand drinking your favorite cocktails. They also have refined version of Japanese Izakaya cocktails, like “Lemon sour”. Besides of cocktails, they have line ups of non-alcohol drinks as well, if you need to be sober for tomorrow, you could have lots of options as well.

like it, I immediately open another bottle, since I need to feel inspired. I want to think of the person who made that wine, the place, the philosophy, I imagine the vineyard, I escape. In this wine is perfect.

What do you think about the quality of the Japanese restaurants outside of Japan, any favorites?

I had been living in Singapore so long, so my two favorite Japanese restaurants outside of Japan is both in Singapore. One is “Wakughin”, Teppanyaki restaurant by chef Tetsuya Wakuda, love all the aesthetic in there. Premium Japanese ingredients were cooked with the precise technique by head chef, Masahiko Inoue. Chef Wakuda’s taste of the interior is just divine. Luxurious, but have the sense of zen. You can start the dinner with cocktails by authentic Japanese bartender and also Japanese marshal arts master, Kazuhiro Chii (his shake is truly beautiful), finish with head pastry chef, Yasushi Ishino’s desserts using Japanese ingredients (such as matcha and Japanese fruits).

Another is Ki-Sho, chef Kazuhiro Hamamoto has strong tie to the fishermen and suppliers in Japan, so get the premium seafood. Nowadays, passionate fishermen get “Shinkeijime” skill (kill nerves of the fish first, to prevent them to struggle), so during the shipping time, these fish is nicely ‘aged”. Also he often wake up at 3am to bid uni auction, and gets No.1 sea urchin in the market. You could enjoy ‘sea urchin tasting’ from various area of Japan.

What do you like about Italian cuisine? Do you think that Italian and Japanese cuisine have something in common?

I like Italian cuisine because of the localism. Maybe Italy used to be many countries, there’s amazing diversity. Also, I like the food keeps the tradition, handed over generation by generation. Italian and Japanese , we both love the original flavor of the ingredients, so mainly, lightly cooked and bring out the best flavor out from it. Also, “zero-wastage” mindset like ribollita. We also has ‘mottainai’ mindset, for example, after eating sea bream sashimi, we braise the head with soy sauce and mirin (we call it “kabuto-ni”).

Are you able to drink with gusto during quarantine?

I drink wine every night, I need something nice to look forward to during the day. I don’t want to waste time, so if I don’t

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN MIAMI

OSTERIA BAIOCCO

O’ MUNACIELLO

5599 Biscayne Blvd

6425 Biscayne Blvd

Average Price: $ 45

Average Price: $ 25

David Ranucci nails it again. After

Without doubt one of the

the success of his places in Milan,

best Neapolitan pizzas in

he successfully exported his Ro-

the United States, thanks to

man tavern format to Florida. The cuisine

the experience gained in Florence, where

offers authentic flavours, starting with the

everything started. Located in the MiMo

fritti fried starters: zucchini flowers, rice

district, ‘O Munaciello offers a genuine of-

balls and Jewish style artichokes. Among

fer as far as both flavours and atmosphere,

pasta dishes, a generous and delicious

with Maradona T-shirts and Neapolitan

version of pappardelle with a long-cooked

music playing. The offer ranges from cui-

ragù certainly stands out, among the Ro-

sine, with many seafood dishes, to pizza,

man specialties, potato gnocchi with

baked with a thick rim, and a soft and

amatriciana, or the typical “scottadito” fire

airy dough. We suggest the Margherita

grilled lamb chops. In combination, a se-

Dop and the Cornicione filled with ricotta

lection of all-Italian wines, also offered at

cheese. To start, order a typical mixed fry

absolutely reasonable prices considering

or a panuozzo filled with provola, sausage

the city average.

and friarielli that the table can share. Do not miss the pastiera for an happy end.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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JUNE 2020

CASA D’ANGELO 1201 N Federal Hwy Fort Lauderdale Average Price: $ 80

Casa d’Angelo displays a mesmerizing

wine

cellar

that counts about 20,000 labels. Campanian Chef Angelo Elia offers a traditional and refined style of cuisine based on very fresh and quality ingredients directly imported from Italy. During our visit, we had and excellent burrata, well paired with an excellent white truffle and parma ham. The olive oil on the table was also of an high leverl. Choosing your wine could be difficoult, every region of the world is represented in the super extensive list.

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Italian cuisine is getting better and better in Miami.

Mediterranean seafood and trattoria-style restaurants faceoff in a hyper-competitive setting, boasting unique Italian wine cellars and fresh ingredients. And if you’re in the mood for pizza, you’re going to top you expectations.

LE SIRENUSE MIAMI

top italian restaurants www.gamberorosso.it/en/restaurants/

CASA TUA

9011 Collins Ave/

1700 James Avenue

Average Price: $ 100

Average Price: $ 80

The Four Season Hotel in Miami of-

Casa Tua is probably the only res-

fers an excellent example of Mediter-

taurant in Miami that by choice of

ranean cuisine, especially in terms of

the founders Michele Grendene and

clean flavours and excellent ingredi-

Leticia Herrera doesn’t present the

ents, starting from extra virgin olive oil, rare

sign on the street. You’ll find a very elegant

and well-valued tomatoes, artisan pasta. A

house, hidden among the trees, that hides

very careful proposal down to the details,

a prestigious gastronomic soul. There’s an

just taste the spaghetti al pomodoro by

eye for quality, just look at the textures.

super talented chef Antonio Mermolia, the

Michele Esposito is among the top chefs

tagliatelle with clams, the caprese or the

in town. During our last visit we had the

scampi tartare. We strongly advise to sit at

linguine alla Nerano, cooked to the point,

the counter for a fine cocktail, before or af-

with a great balance of flavors thanks to

ter your meal, which can also be enjoyed

two different selections of Parmigiano

in the beautiful outdoor patio. Attentive

Reggiano (red cow and 36 months) per-

service, and a rich and varied wine list

fectly blended with tasty zucchini and fra-

complete the experience. We believe that

grant scents of basil. The risotto with Gen-

Le Sirenuse offers the most refined and

oese pesto,burrata and raw red shrimps

accurated Italian food in town.

from Mazara del Vallo was a remarkable one: creamy, al dente, top quality acquerello rice. The wine list is refined and deep.

The outside patio it will remind you of an Italian villa. A perfect and professional service completes the package.

b GamberoRossoInternational x GamberoRossoInternational

sponsor

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10 WINE EXPERTS EXPLAIN WHAT IS HAPPENING NOW AND WHAT WILL HAPPEN LATER Too early to draw conclusions. Even too early to make any prediction. We are on the decline of the health crisis (we hope) and on the rise of an economic one (we hope not). Naturally, unable to imagine what will happen, we cannot do anything but talk about it. We did this by inviting Italian and international wine experts to share their point of view.

by Stefania Annese, William Pregentelli, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Loredana Sottile Drawings by Diamante Beghetto

STORIES

O

n the one hand, the accomplishments of e-commerce (with increased sales that touched 100% for the main Italian players) and the positive stability of the large-scale distribution (for Doc and Docg, purchases in March alone recorded a +9,9%); on the other, the lockdown of the Horeca world which, instead, puts medium-high-end products in serious difficulty. These are the dynamics the world of wine has been dealing with since Covid-19 has come to upset social relationships and marketing plans.

Sudden perspective changes, just as sudden as the drop in world wine exchanges in March, a month straddling one world and another. The Italian market sprint in the first two months of the year managed to contain the losses of the quarter, but the forecasts for the future are not the brightest. The situation in the USA is particularly revealing, the first destination for Italian wine, where the drop in the third month of the year was 17%, but where Italian wine remains afloat thanks to excellent performances in January-February

(+40%), when, thanks to the tariff scare (fortunately, avoided), prompted an unprecedented rush to buy and stock up.

It does not console us to see that we did better than France, probably the country that was most affected by the lockdown, also due to its price dynamics. The other great “defeated” by the pandemic, in fact, are premium wines which, at this stage, struggle to find their place. The question for the future is therefore directed to which channels will be able to absorb this product range and whether the reopening of the restaurant business will rebalance the effects of the losses.

On this and many other unknowns (what will the harvest be like? What new wine tourism are we looking at? How will communication change after the emergency?), wineries, consortia and opinion leaders question the columns collected in this chorale article. We look ahead, of course, but inevitably in a whole new way. If there is one thing that this pandemic has taught us is those who know how to keep up with the times, win. Including when times get tough.  – Loredana Sottile

THE WINE BUSINESS

Export Italian Wine 1st quarter 2020 vs. 2019

58%

+16,8% U.S.A. +2,4% Canada +2,1% Japan

Month over month variation in the USA

41%

39%

Jan

Feb

vs.

+1% South Korea +0,4% Switzerland

Mar -17%

+9,9%

-33% -1,1% Norwey

E-commerce

-8% Brazil -13,3% China GDO march

beyond 25%

20%

Prosecco +4%

Vinitaly-Nomisma Observatory on the first quarter

Doc and Docg Igt

source: "The effects of lockdown on wine consumption in Italy", survey carried out from April 17 to 22 by Vinitaly-Nomisma Observatory

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+8%

source: Iri data for Vinitaly

+5,4% Bubbles

WINE, WHAT’S HAPPENING?

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STORIES

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WINE, WHAT’S HAPPENING?

It’s a very difficult moment. This is a crisis that’s never been experienced either in France or elsewhere, perhaps comparable to the stock market crash of ‘29. Nothing will ever be the same again. A dramatic moment but from which new opportunities can arise. First the block of the Chinese market due to Covid... Then the US tariffs that touched us heavily... Now we have to start again, but we have lost two fundamental markets, China and Hong Kong... The US attitude towards French wine has not changed, our wines cost 15% more than last year due to tariffs, not to mention the failures of the American distribution chain, the importers who had to close, the unemployed who are growing visibly and don’t want to drink French wine. In the USA the crisis will be stronger than in other parts of the world, given that there is no Community aid, the shock absorber we have in Europe. But even here with the restaurant business closed, there has been a collapse in the consumption of medium-high end wines. Now people only drink cheap wines purchased at the supermarket. En primeur tastings in Bordeaux have been cancelled and this has put the system of négociants and wineries in crisis. We hope to recover by rescheduling them at the end of the year. We have to learn to live with the virus, and we can say goodbye to big events for a while. With technology we have continued to be present to consumers, together with companies. We will create many videos, we will travel new paths. We will be able to illustrate the great wines better than before. It’s important to remember that the circuit of wine distribution and the world of marketing are changing irreversibly. We will witness profound changes, large mergers will come about, and many properties will change hands. Larger companies and iconic wines have resources to overcome the crisis, such as those with family nature, which will roll up their sleeves, but will continue to go on. In between, everything will happen. We journalists have to do our part to help companies communicate. We will invent new paths and move forward. We will not stop.

Thierry DESSAUVE

Journalist, Bettane & Desseauve Guide

We have to go back to being farmers. To deal first of all with the soil. Covid-19 will force us to change our perception capacity and not focus exclusively on specialized cultivations. Widen our agricultural vision, differentiate it. And we, wine producers, must not think exclusively of wine. Nothing will be like before. The needs of consumers and therefore of the market will also change. We will have to downsize, knit tighter relationships not only with customers, but with the agricultural world as well. With the primary sector, between alliances and new synergies.

With the sincerity that distinguishes those who care for the Soil without aiming for intensive production. This is why in the post-Coronavirus period we will have to study new forms of agricultural development that open up to other crops. I’m thinking of horticulture, animal husbandry, even grais. In the Dolomites, it will not be necessary to continue carving away soil to make room for hyper-specialized fruit growing. Not even to insist on a wine production that’s often without identity. There will be a natural selection.

Elisabetta FORADORI Wine producer at Foradori in Mezzolombardo (TN)

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STORIES

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WINE, WHAT’S HAPPENING?

Difficult to predict what will change in the world of wine, but I realize that we will not go back to being the same as before, a bit like what happened with 9/11 which changed our way of traveling forever. This period of stand by, in fact, has taught us to restore the right value to things, away from the frenzy. Of course we will resume travelling, but there will be an increasing attention for territory and, I think, for Italian products.

With Horeca closed all over the world, many of our wine producers built found relationship directly with the final consumer also through home deliveries. And I believe that this trend will continue afterwards, because the production ethics and relationships between people will change. Probably the classic distribution, as we are used to knowing it, will take a fall: in the sense that not everyone will survive and there will be a natural selection that will favour those who have an honest and correct approach. We also need to understand the evolution of the relationship with restaurants: we cannot accept everything. I am thinking, for example, of wine on consignment. Wine is a product that helps to socialize, but we don’t deserve to be treated in this way.

As far as working goes, we cannot stop: nature does not stop. After flowering, there will soon be a new harvest.

We’ll need flexibility for hiring the workforce and liquidity to be able to pay for the services and the employees.

In short, there are many changes and challenges that await us, but I hope that all of this will at least help to restore the right value even to small everyday things. .

Matilde POGGI President Fivi

During lockdown we went back to thinking about what is really essential also in the world of wine. We returned to the vineyard, this virus came at a fundamental moment, the first days of lockdown coincided with the moment of the “weeping of the vines”, when bunches hang their heads to fruit and cry. It may seem sad but it’s a sign of rebirth, it means that the flow of the lymph starts and cellular respiration resumes. It’s the sprout of rebirth. We have lived the same thing, being in the vineyard there’s great potential for life, you learn a certain way of observing, it gives you the energy to face this period. At the Pepe winery we have always lived in the hands of nature, last August we underwent a hallucinating hailstorm: take it all in, bite the buller and react. On the sales level, I have seen that in America many restaurants have sold their stock of bottles to cope with rents and wages, including takeout and auctions. They got rid of the most important bottles, when they will reopen they will focus on lower-end wines to start over, my doubt is whether they will load older millesimes to create verticals. Now I’m at work in Burgundy and here the market value is so high that it can go down a bit, but for Abruzzo there’s no security. And for wines like ours, the work of my agents is fundamental, they bring a character that cannot be replicated online, the human value of sales is unsurpassed. In any case, I am sure that there will be greater awareness in the purchasing choices and I sincerely hope that young people will return to the vineyard, that interest in the beauty of the agricultural gesture will return: attention and sensitivity to details, is a way to grow.

Chiara PEPE

producer at Emidio Pepe in Torano Nuovo (TE)

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STORIES

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WINE, WHAT’S HAPPENING?

We are suffering a lot from the closure of the restaurant business in Germany and abroad, which represents a third of our sales. We have increased the communication with our customers online. We really hope that our brand will be able to treasure this new awareness in appreciating many things that we took for granted before the crisis: regionality, sustainability and respect for nature will no longer be seen only as an accessory but will also become important points for the sale. Our idea of mobility will change, the concept of home will be an increasingly precious value. We never saw our biodynamic production method as a marketing tool, we will have to do it now! We want to improve the good things we’ve learned to become increasingly aware. We know well that the biodynamic method gives us even more distinctive, precise and unmistakable wines. From Covid we learned how valuable and important personal contact with our customers is. The enjoyment of wine, too, is truly such when it is shared.

Hansjörg REBHOLZ

Producer at Ökonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldingen (Germany)

Here in Argentina we were under a very strict quarantine, inspired by the Italian model. This year the 2020 harvest was pushed forward to March: scant production, less 30%, and good quality especially in the colder areas. Since the beginning of the lockdown, I have forced all my workers to use social networks and new platforms, having already tech savvy people take refresher courses. In this way we made contact with all the customers, I made many live streams especially on Instagram, before it happened rarely to communicate directly with questions, even the most simple, by the final consumer: it was nice to get involved. As an example, I just did a tasting with a shop in Florida with 250 people registered, after so many trips around the world I think I will have more time to devote elsewhere. In regards to sales, here in Argentina people are drinking a lot more. And people are increasingly buying wines from well-known brands, there’s very little desire to experiment right now. On the online front we will see bigger integration between importers and distributors, like in America with wine.com and very innovative platforms such as Instacart or Drizly, technology that informs you where to find your favorite wine based on where you are and delivers at home in an hour, giving visibility to many small micro-realities.

Laura CATENA

Producer at Bodega Catena Zapata in Mendoza (Argentina)

I did an investigation in Brazil, interviewing 1,000 people between professionals and consumers in April, during lockdown. Here 2020 had started well economically, growth forecasts were good, wine imports had increased since 2019 in the first part of the year, then as you know everything changed. In Brazil, wine consumption has been increasing for the past 20 years. The survey revealed that 67% of people significantly increased wine consumption, with an average of 30 to 60% more than before. The consumption of red wines is very strong, above 80%, bubbles are at 3%. The most consumed wines? Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Chardonnay. While among the producing countries, Italy occupies the 5th position, in the lead are Chile and Argentina, then Portugal and Brazil.

A confirmation of what happened before the crisis. It’s interesting to see that for the first time sales from a physical store have been matched by online stores, as far as wine sales have grown by 50%, many claim to have bought wine for the first time online. Last consideration, putting together the consumption and purchase data, it emerges that the interviewees significantly lowered the level of stocks at home, consuming more than what was purchased.

Marcelo COPELLO

Journalist in Rio de Janeiro (Brasile)

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STORIES

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WINE, WHAT’S HAPPENING?

The American market is already suffering a lot, here too we’ve seen a spike in sales for lower price range. But I’m sure that for the long term, the motto “Drink less, drink better” will be the common thread and we will go back to buying the great wines like before. Americans always have this craze of drinking only “the best” and this won’t change, and I also believe that online sales will drop once the situation has normalized. On the internet level, I see a great growth of search engines like wine-searcher.com, resources like Wine Spectator have strengthened their digital presence, while for social media I don’t see changes in progress. Those who really want to know more about wine can join a webinar or sign up for a course or a lesson. From the point of view of consumption, the current concern leads us to consume only wines that have already been tried and tested, for Italy I see good sales for Chianti and Chianti Classico, the usual Pinot Grigio, the Apulian reds with an excellent price. While, as soon as the crisis ends, higher-end wines like Barolo and Brunello will recover, as well as for Bolgheri. For other denominations, the road could be complicated. In regards to marketing, I invite wineries to focus strongly on the history of their wines, on the concepts of tradition and the legacy of past generations. Never like in this moment, consumers are attentive to this type of discourse.

Journalist in Chicago (USA)

Tom HYLAND

Producer at Corison Winery in Napa Valley (USA) Well, in all this I am so grateful to have wine and grapes to grow. I must say that we are very lucky here because the rulers and bankers of Napa County and the state of California consider wineries and vineyards fundamental. We have implemented recovery and distancing protocols and we are able to continue taking care of the wine and carrying out all the spring activities in the vineyard. That said, our tasting room has been closed for over a month, so cellar sales that are important to us have halted altogether. Wholesale has also been severely affected because most of the best restaurants in the country are closed. We enjoyed good sales via telephone and online channels. This is a time to clean up and start over. I really hope that we will all find ways to slow down and connect to the soil. In terms of consumption, the domestic sector was also particularly lively here. We see it in direct consumer sales and in sales to retail stores. For restaurants I think it will be a long and difficult road, many operate on very thin margins; many will not make it. It will be very difficult to guarantee social distancing in the restaurant context. A lesson from this whole situation? We are learning a lot about how to reach customers remotely.

I think this will continue to be very useful to us going forward. And I close with a wish: I would really like to see better access everywhere for wines produced by small family-run wineries.

Alsace and Champagne were among the areas in France most affected by the virus. We restarted our activity at the end of April with the work in the vineyard and in the cellar, with all necessary safety measures put in place. As in any crisis, not only health but economic, everyone is looking for their own strength at the source, in will and commitment. We love our land.

I believe that there is no opposition between physical and digital marketing, we will increasingly go towards an integrated model, the digital one as a means that won’t exclude the intermediary but will trickle everywhere. This crisis helped us understand that we can share in an even more intimate way with many people, it has eliminated distances, it’s now up to us to know how to manage our phone, as if it were a remote control. All this time at home has put the importance of food at the core, as an expression of pleasure and sharing, quality, culture, love. As far as Champagne, this moment shows us how we are ready to change habits, in a spirit of civil conscience, and also in consumption. Before the health crisis, Champagne had just closed its best year in Italy: 2019 showed growth in value of 13% and in volume of 12%. Italy is our first market after France, we will see when we will resume normalcy. It will be stimulating to see the changes, remembering that Champagne is not a celebration wine, but the most joyful way to drink a great wine.

Alice PAILLARD

Cathy CORISON

Producer at Bruno Paillard in Reims (France)

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Producer at Corison Winery in Napa Valley (USA)a)

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SCIACCHETRÀ.

JOURNEY ON THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE SYMBOLIC WINE OF THE CINQUE TERRE Rugged land, wedged between rocks and the sea. Working the fields here is an act of pure heroism and attachment to one's roots. Voilà Sciacchetrà, a sweet, extreme, traditional and precious sweet wine made from native grapes.

words byEmiliano Gucci - infographics by Alessandro Naldi

STORIES

T

’he landing, albeit by land, is a blow to the heart. The place is, from a landscape point, located in one of the most spectacular places in Italy. And of the world. The road winds, rears up then descends with the mountain on one side, the green that opens in windows on the other side: and there at the bottom the sea, like vertigo, the horizon that rears up to resize the sky. Infinite. The Cinque Terre are this, and not only the gemvillages that would be much less fascinating without the surrounding picture: anthropized nature, tamed rock and soil cultivated over the centuries even where only the crazy, or the heroes would dare; dry stone walls terracing ridges, cian (in dialect flat steps) that for a long time have welcomed

the vines and the olive trees in the areas of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, and villages enclosed between Punta Mesco and Punta di Montenero in the Riviera of La Spezia, in Liguria. A strip of land besieged by peaks, up to 800 meters above sea level, at a stone's throw from the sea, in a context and schizophrenic microclimate, which can also visibly vary, more humid areas and others more windswept, steep coast and designed by bluffs and inlets that continue south to Portovenere, with the island of Palmaria in front, closing in the Gulf of La Spezia.nella sterzata del golfo di La Spezia.

WHAT GRAPES MAKE SCIACCHETRÀ The totem wine of the Cinque Terre is Sciacchetrà, a sweet nectar, an over-

1

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used but in this case due term. It is a singular passito, a portentous, unique in genesis and result, produced primarily with bosco grapes, plus albarola and vermentino, which are left to dry away from the sun, in well-ventilated areas, for over 70 days. After November 1st (traditionally, but at present as part of the disciplinary), the bunches are carefully de-stemmed, sometimes selecting the grapes by hand, which are then pressed and vinified in steel tanks, in contact with the skins. The wine is often aged in small barrels, sometimes in steel or in an amphora, sold in specific tapered 375 ml bottles.

The production yield stands at 25%: objectively it's worth it, culturally as well, for fans there is no doubt but from a commercial point of view it's as difficult a challenge as is the land difficult to farm.

WINE OF CINQUE TERRE

CHARACTERISTICS OF SCIACCHETRÀ Golden, amber with iridescent reflections, intense on the nose with hints of honey, harmonious and persistent in the mouth, with a firm structure and very fine tannic texture, it has a bewitching opening and a savoury sea finish, an aftertaste of almonds and dried figs, an evocative and poetic soul; "That proud Sciacchetrà that's pressed in the five vine-covered lands", as D'Annunzio wrote, seems to borrow the name from shekar, a Hebrew term that identifies a drink to offer to God, yet in Ligurian dialect it recalls Sciac, that is, crush, press in regards to the grapes, and Tra, which means pull, pull it away, put it in the barrel and forget it there, given time can only be beneficial.

CANTINA SASSARINI Cantina Sassarini, ina Monterosso al Mare, is the custodian of this story. The founda-

tions were laid by Natale Sassarini in 1968, farsighted in sensing the potential of the area's wines, just think that the DOC certification was created only five years later. He built his cellar and tightened around him a network of wine growers who cultivated their land, currently there are 11 hectares total. "The grape conferring model has a decidedly positive meaning here: ensuring the purchase of the grapes allows individual farmers, owners of small plots, to continue looking after the land with the necessary support over time." It's now Natale's son, Giancarlo, shy profile but attentive gaze, tenacious step, who mans the corporate helm: the milestone of the winery's fiftieth anniversary, two years ago, took on the value of "a rock to consolidate a wine tradition of Cinque Terre, which has so far been lacking."  1. The vineyards that slope down into terraces towards the sea of Cantina Sassarini in Monterosso 2. The grape harvest at the Possa winery: stored in small boxes waiting to be brought downhill with the rack

TOP 6 LABELS ACCORDING TO VINI D’ITALIA 2020  Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà ’15 Cheo Vernazza (SP) via Brigate Partigiane, 1 0187821189 – cheo.it Fine, elegant and with great character, with an imposing body rich in balanced sugars thanks to the pleasant bitter sensation in the finish.

 Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà ’12 Cantina Cinque Terre Riomaggiore (SP) – loc. Groppo 0187920435 – cantinacinqueterre. com

Light and intense amber colour, classic hints of walnut husk and dried fruit on a white chocolate backdrop: it's fine and complex, elegant and imposing, it has a body that's rich in acidity in a long alcoholic finish.

 Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà ’16 Cantina Sassarini Monterosso al Mare (SP) loc. Pian del Corso, 1 0187818063 – cantinasassarini.com Bright and straw-coloured, sciacchetrà '16 is highly complex with notes of dried flowers and broom on mediterranean scrub and pleasant sulphurous notes.

 Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà ’16 Samuele Heidi Bonanini-Possa Riomaggiore (SP) – via Sant’Antonio, 72 0187920959 – possa.it Excellent vintage, with a light amber colour and intense aromas that open to notes of dried fruit and walnut. on the palate it lends complexity in a refined balance between sugars and acidity.

.

 Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà

Rosa di Maggio ’09 – Arrigoni La Spezia – via Sarzana, 224 0187504060 – arrigoni1913.it The colour is amber, the flavour is reminiscent of ripe apricot, walnut and malt. in the mouth it's full and sinuous. time has run its course: it is a nectar that enchants the palate. passito

 Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà Ris. ’16 – Terenzuola Fosdinovo (SP) – via Vercalda, 14 0187670387 – terenzuola.it Light and bright amber colour, this riserva '16 has ample and harmonious notes of ripe apricots, honey and walnut.

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2

STORIES

13 RESTAURANTS RECOMMENDED

BY THE WINE PRODUCERS

CHEO WINERY SWe arrive in Vernazza to get to know the only winery in the village, with the vineyards of Lise Bertram and Bartolomeo Lercari that from the castle tower to the church bell tower seem to embrace the sea. She's Danish, with a degree in horticulture and a doctorate in agronomy; he, after similar studies became a teacher, learned and taught around the world and then returned here, in the abandoned countryside that claimed a caretaker. "My grandfather lived in the sea, like many men, while it was my grandmother who took care of the vineyards and the wine bar, the olive trees. My summers were spent at the Vernazza pier, in the sun, I swam and fished... I tried courting women, but I was shy," and it's difficult to imagine this speaking to him now, ironic and easy-going, affable and intense. "I was better off in the vineyard helping my father Ercole," says Bartolo.

1 A Cantina de Mamanan Corniglia (SP) via Fieschi, 117 - 0187821166 @cantinademananan/ «Intimate and characteristic place, fish and meat dishes adhere to local tradition; try the appetizers and the rabbit».

2 Cappun Magru Manarola (SP) via B. Riccobaldi, 1 - 0187760057 @cappunmagru/ «The cappon magro is an ancient traditional dish made with braised fish and vegetables, here served at its best. good desserts and local wines».

3 Ciak Monterosso al mare (SP) p.zza Don G. Minzoni, 6 - 0187817014 @RistoranteCiak/ «On the monterosso central square, an institution. open kitchen, generous pasta courses, friendly service and wines from the cinque terre».

4 Dau Cila Riomaggiore (SP) via San Giacomo, 65 - 0187760032 ristorantedaucila.com «Only fresh fish, dynamic menu,

Vètua

Magnati

Miki

Da Sandro Gianni Franzi

Cheo Monterosso al Mare Vernazza

Vulnetia

Corniglia Volastra

Manarola Riomaggio Cantina Sassarini

Enoteca Internazionale

Ciack

Vin Bun

Locanda Tiabuscion

2 km

suggestive location and accurate service. good local wine list».

5 Enoteca Internazionale Monterosso al mare (SP) via Roma, 63 - 0187817278 enotecainternazionale.com «The oldest place for wine tasting in the cinque terre, selections of meats and cheeses, excellent bruschetta with monterosso anchovies».

6 Gianni Franzi Vernazza (SP) p.zza Guglielmo Marconi, 1 0187812228 - giannifranzi.it «Traditional cuisine, stuffed anchovies and lemon, trofie with pesto, the famous vernazza "tegame". hotel, too».

7 Miki Monterosso al mare (SP) via Fegina, 104 - 0187817608 ristorantemiki.it «Family run, modern cuisine born from tradition. extensive wine list and selection of local products. a more informal pit stop can be had at la cantina di miki, a few steps away».



3.

4.

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WINE OF THE CINQUE TERRE

8 Osteria della Corte La Spezia via Napoli, 86 - 0187715210 osteriadellacorte.com «Warm welcome, pleasant inner courtyard for the summer, intriguing

Ceparana

Osteria A Cantina de Mamaman Forlini Cappellini

TOSCANA

Santo Stefano di Magra

cuisine based on good ingredients and

I UR LIG

Arrigoni

drinking, too».

A

Cappun Magro

successful fusion experiemnts. good

Fosdinovo

Sarzana

ore

Terenzuola

La Spezia Pitelli

Terre di Bargon

Campiglia Le Grazia

Campogrande Samuele Heidi Bonanini-Possa

Dau Cila Rio Bistrot

Bocca di Magra

Cantina Cinque Terre

Marina di Carrara

Litan

3. The CheO vineyards, cultivated on the terraces sloping down to the sea and contained by the dry stone walls typical of this area 4. The Sciacchetrà Cinque Terre from the CheO winery by Lise Bertramand Bartolomeo Lercari 5. The vineyards on the grounds of the Possa farm of Heydi Bonamini 6. Heydi works the rows and collects the grapes with the help of small racks to relieve the effort of having to go up and down dozens of meters in altitudee

9 La Posta La Spezia via G. Minzoni, 24 - 0187760437 lapostadiclaudio.com «In former coaching inn, a seafood cuisine of great satisfaction, with typical dishes such as "ciuppin" as well as other more creative modern ones. well structured wine list».

10 Rio Bistrò Riomaggiore (SP) via San Giacomo, 10 - 0187920616 @Rio-Bistrot «Imaginative dishes for a gourmet cuisine that's attentive to ingredients and innovation, in an evocative position overlooking the sea».

11 Da Sandro Vernazza (SP) via Roma, 60 - 0187812223 trattoriadasandro-vernazza.it «Historic restaurant in the main street of the village, genuine cuisine with daily chef's proposals, including meat dishes».

12 Locanda Tiabuscion Riomaggiore (SP) frazione Volastra via Nostra Signora della Salute, 114 01871858082 - @locandatiabuscion «Modern and bright place, homemade pasta and bread from selected grains, excellent fish tasting menu, choice of local wines».

13 Vulnetia Vernazza (SP) piazza Guglielmo Marconi, 29 0187821193 camerenicolina.it/it/ristorante «Charming interiors with stone walls, tables set in the outside square, excellent appetizers and risotto; particular pizzas».



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STORIES

6.

5.

This came in handy in 2004, when with Lise, starting from a family plot, they gave birth to Cheo, nickname with which the Lercari family called itself, of noble Genoese origins. "When I was a boy, the little train for the harvest wasn't there, trips was made by hand, long and exhausting, the grapes arrived in the cellar with an eye dropper, it was impossible to get a good wine."

POSSA WINERY Heydi Bonanini owes his name to a trip to northern Europe is parents took, when his mom was pregnant; while his Possa farm is a contraction of the name of the valley where he was born, Possaitara, in Riomaggiore. "By the end of the Nineties few portions of terraces had been cultivated, landslides had devastated the whole slope". Heydi began to like the idea of a vineyard of his own, which also meant the recovery and custody of this strip of land overlooking the sea (a ride on board the train built for the harvest

in the late 80s, gives an idea of the dizziness of those who work in this context).

He graduated in Accounting but there were other studies that fascinated him, the seasons and the climate, the vines and wine-making techniques. "The arrival of Elio Altare, and the recruitment that led me to work alongside him, were a turning point." Heydi's first grapes were vinified in the cellar that the famous Langa winemaker had started in Riomaggiore, and so, in about three years, he was able to practice and hone enough experience to start his own path with Possa. "I produced just 25 liters of my first SciacchetrĂ , I remember we had bed frames as racks for drying, resting on the piles of my school books that were finally put to good use." He grows, refines the trade, takes over new plots and starts parallel activities, such as the one carried out together with children, in respectful education for agriculture; or setting up a space dedicated to peasant memory in the Riomaggiore cellar.

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His harvest is still carried out by hand, the baskets loaded on the trains or on a boat. "The Cinque Terre are this, the effort of working on overhangs, of restoring dry stone walls; the4. cellars, lemons and rosemary, the smells of the countryside, not the shops that sell souvenirs in the village". For SciacchetrĂ , the sorting of the grapes, mainly Bosco, is done grape by grape, withering is almost a ritual, winemaking respects tradition but also tries new ways, such as in amphora. The result is amazing, a fleshy and intellectual wine, yet rustic, with a thousand stories to tell. "Over time poor SciacchetrĂ was brutalised in the name of a market that had ended up distorting it; we recovered the true meaning of this unique passito in the world. The dowry of twenty bottles that we have historically destined for every unborn child in the area is a source of great pride", and now little Jacopo Bonanini thinks about pressing with his feet, in the cellar since he was three years old.

RECIPES

DANIELE LIPPI BORN IN

AGE

RESIDENT IN

Rome

29

Rome

RESTAURANT NAME

Acquolina al The First Hotel RESTAURANT CONTACTS:

Rome via del Vantaggio, 14 063201590 acquolinaristorante.it SOUS CHEF

Matteo Cavoli AGE OF SOUS CHEF

30 KITCHEN BRIGADE

PREVIOUS RESTAURANTS

  

OWNER PARTNER EMPLOYEE

Il Convivio in Rome Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris Piazza Duomo in Alba (CN) Alinea in Chicago

SEATS

35

BEST LOVED INGREDIENT

MY CUISINE’S HASHTAGS

Vinegar

I express my creativity by reinterpreting Mediterranean cuisine in a contemporary style, through a more material and ancestral vision, increasignly enhancing our territory and its customs

LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT

Triple tomato concentrate THE DISH OF A LIFETIME

Pietro Piazzoli Riccardo Sofi Andrea Cingottini Riccardo Molinari Dalu

Maestro Angelo Troiani, but I don’t worship anyone

DINING ROOM

MOST ESTEEMED COLLEAGUE

Benito Cascone (restaurant manager) Andrea Menichelli Carlos Soriano Vera Chiappini

Alessandro Narducci

I haven’t created it yet MAESTRO WORSHIPPED

FAVORITE RESTAURANT ABROAD

Nobelhart & Schmutzig in Berlin THE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS

Ribolla Gialla by Josko Gravner

HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF I WOULD HAVE BEEN…

A bread baker

SOMMELIER

Emanuele Pica LATEST ALBUM DOWNLOAD

DISHES PRESENTED TODAY:

None

Jerusalem artichoke like an artichoke Bread, butter and anchovies Eel, vinegar and lentils Cuttlefish in the net

LATEST BOOK READ

Mediterranean: A Cultural Landscape by Predrag Matvejevic

by Paolo Cuccia – photos by Barbara Santoro

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DANIELE LIPPI - ACQUOLINA AT THE FIRST HOTEL

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RECIPES

Jerusalem artichoke like an artichoke ingredients for 4

700 g large Jerusalem artichoke tubers 500 ml sunflower seed oil for frying 50 ml extra virgin olive oil 50 g mentuccia (wild mint) 50 g parsley 2 garlic cloves salt and pepper Peel the Jerusalem artichokes, keep the skins and toast them in the oven at 200° C for about 10 minutes until caramelized, then put them in a pan with ice in order to develop a dense and silky stock thanks to the sugars released.

Finely slice the larger Jerusalem artichokes, stack the slices on top of each other and put them in a sous vide bag with oil, garlic, mint, parsley, salt and pepper. Bake in a steam oven for 10 minutes at 95° C. Once cooled, compose 4 roses, tie them with kitchen string and fry obtaining very golden and crisp Jerusalem artichoke with a shape similar to that of an artichoke.

Put the remaining peeled Jerusalem artichokes in a sous vide bag with olive oil, salt and pepper and cook at 95° C for an hour. Blend everything to obtain a very smooth and soft cream. Chop garlic, parsley and mint and gently fry in the Jerusalem artichoke cooking oil.

Arrange a rose of Jerusalem artichoke in the center of each plate, place a little garlic mince on it and garnish with drops of the purée.

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CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR

2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour 2021 2021 2021 2021 2021

GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational GamberoRossoInternational

2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER OCTOBER JUNE

JUNE

JULY

trebicchieri trebicchieri - Speciale Anteprime - Speciale trebicchieri Anteprimetrebicchieri - Speciale Anteprime - Speciale Anteprime 16-18 ROME -14 Italy 14 MONTREAL 14 MONTREAL - Canada 14 -MONTREAL Canada MONTREAL - Canada - Canada trebicchieri

JUNE JUNE 01 SWITZERLAND

Italian Wines Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Top Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow - 19 Canada - Canada CALGARY CALGARY -TopCanada -TopCanada 16 CALGARY 16 BEIJING - 16 China trebicchieri WEB SHOW16 CALGARY trebicchieri 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND 01 SWITZERLAND trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW trebicchieri WEBVANCOUVER SHOW18 WEBVANCOUVER SHOW - Canada Top Italian Wines Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Top Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow 18 18 VANCOUVER - Canada 18 VANCOUVER - Canada -Roadshow Canada trebicchieri WEB SHOWtrebicchieri trebicchieri VINEXPO Special 08 GERMANY 21-22 SHANGHAI - China trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY 08 GERMANY Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri WEB SHOW CHI MINH - Vietnam 23 HOOCTOBER 15 SCANDINAVIA OCTOBER OCTOBER OCTOBER trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK trebicchieri WEB SHOW Top Italian Wines Roadshow 22 USA 15 SWEDEN/DENMARK 26 SEOUL - Korea trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri ROME -ROME Italy - Italy ROME -ROME Italy - Italy trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW 22 U.K. 22 U.K. 22 U.K. 22 U.K. trebicchieri WEB SHOW 28 CANADA 29 TOKYO - Japan trebicchieri 29 TOKYO 29 TOKYO - Japan- Japan 29 TOKYO 29 TOKYO - Japan - Japan trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW 29 USA29 USA 29 USA29 USAtrebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWtrebicchieri 30 RUSSIA NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 04 KIEV - Ukraine Top Italian Wines Roadshow JULY JULY SEPTEMBER JULY JULY trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL - Korea- Korea 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL - Korea - Korea Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week 16-19 DUBAI - UAE trebicchieri 14 MONTREAL - Canada trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW - China 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 04 SHANGHAI 04 SHANGHAI 04- SHANGHAI China 04 SHANGHAI - Chinatrebicchieri - China trebicchieri 24 ST.PETERSBURG - Russia Top Italian Wines Roadshow 16 CALGARY - Canada trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB BEIJING SHOW06 WEB BEIJING SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 06 - China - 06 China BEIJING 06 BEIJING - China - China 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG KONG 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG KONG trebicchieri 26 MOSCOW - Russia Top Italian Wines Roadshow 18 VANCOUVER - Canada 16-19 DUBAI 16-19 -DUBAI UAE -16-19 UAE DUBAI -DUBAI UAE -Food&Wine UAE Gambero Rosso Gambero Rosso Food&Wine Week GamberoWeek Rosso Gambero Food&Wine Rosso Food&Wine Week Week trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOW WEB SHOW 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE 20 SINGAPORE - 16-19 Switzerland 30 ZURICH Vini d'Italia

27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN

24 - Russia 24 - Russia MOSCOW 24 MOSCOW -trebicchieri Russia-trebicchieri Russia trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB MOSCOW SHOW24 WEB MOSCOW SHOW 27 JAPAN 27 JAPAN

trebicchieritrebicchieri

2021

26 ST.PETERSBURG 26 ST.PETERSBURG -26Russia ST.PETERSBURG -26Russia ST.PETERSBURG - Russia - Russiatrebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri 30 ZURICH 30 ZURICH - Switzerland - Switzerland 30 ZURICH 30 ZURICH - Switzerland - Switzerland Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia

Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia

JANUARY

19 MUNICH - Germany

trebicchieri

21 BERLIN - Germany

Vini d'Italia

APRIL 2021 2021 2021 2021

trebicchieri VINITALY Special 18-21 VERONA - Italy trebicchieri 25 STOCKHOLM - Sweden JANUARYJANUARY JANUARYJANUARY MARCH MARCH MARCH MARCH 27 COPENHAGEN - Denmark Vini d'Italia 18 MUNICH 18 MUNICH - Germany -18Germany MUNICH 18 MUNICH -trebicchieri Germany -trebicchieri Germany trebicchieritrebicchieri 02 LOS02 ANGELES LOSMAY ANGELES - USA 02 LOS - USA 02 ANGELES LOS ANGELES - USA - USA trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri

20 BERLIN 20 BERLIN - Germany - Germany 20 BERLIN 20 BERLIN - Germany - Germany Vini d'Italia Vini d'Italia FEBRUARY

Vini d'Italia Vini trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri 04d'Italia SAN04 FRANCISCO SANSINGAPORE FRANCISCO 04 - USA SAN04 -FRANCISCO USA SAN FRANCISCO - USA -Top USA Italian Wines Roadshow

25 STOCKHOLM 25 STOCKHOLM 25 STOCKHOLM --Sweden 25 STOCKHOLM - Sweden - Sweden trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri VINEXPO trebicchieri Special PARIS France 15-17- Sweden 05 NAPA 05 VALLEY NAPA VALLEY - USA 05 -NAPA - USA 05 VALLEY NAPA VALLEY - USA - USA trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri SYDNEY Australia Top Italian Wines Roadshow Vini d'Italia d'Italia ViniVINEXPO d'Italia Vini 27 COPENHAGEN 27 COPENHAGEN 27 Denmark COPENHAGEN -KONG 27 Denmark COPENHAGEN - Vini Denmark -trebicchieri Denmark Special NEW NEW- YORK USA08- NEW USA08YORK NEW - YORK USA trebicchieri - USA 08d'Italia 08YORK 23-26 -HONG - China trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri Top Italian Wines Roadshow MELBOURNE - Australia 10 CHICAGO 10 CHICAGO - USA 10 - USA CHICAGO 10 CHICAGO - USA trebicchieri - USA trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri MARCH Top Italian Wines Roadshow AUCKLAND - New Zealand FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 20 DUSSELDORF 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri PROWEIN Special PROWEINtrebicchieri Special trebicchieri PROWEIN Special PROWEIN Special 02 LOS ANGELES - USA trebicchieri France-15-17 France PARIS PARIS France-trebicchieri France 15-17 PARIS 15-17 -PARIS 15-17 -trebicchieri VINEXPO Special VINEXPOtrebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINEXPO Special VINEXPO Special JUNE trebicchieri 04 SAN FRANCISCO - USA HONG -23-26 KONG ChinaHONG -23-26 China KONG HONG -trebicchieri KONG ChinaSpecial -VINEXPO China 23-26 HONG 23-26 KONG trebicchieri VINEXPO trebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINEXPO VINEXPO APRIL Special APRIL Special APRIL APRIL Top Italian Wines Roadshow MIAMI - USA trebicchieri 05 NAPA VALLEY - USA trebicchieri VINITALY VINITALYtrebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINITALY Special VINITALY Special 18-21 VERONA 18-21 VERONA - Italy18-21 - Italy VERONA 18-21 VERONA - Italytrebicchieri - ItalySpecial trebicchieri MEXICO CITY - Mexico 08 NEW YORK - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow

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Sponsor CHICAGO - USA 10 Sponsor 12 HOUSTON - USA 20 DUSSELDORF - Germany

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DANIELE LIPPI - ACQUOLINA AT THE FIRST HOTEL

Eel, vinegar and lentils ingredients for 4

For the eel 1 kg fresh eel 50 g liquid glucose 50 g sweet wine 30 g colatura di alici fish sauce pork rib bones garlic ginger wood chips for smoking charcoal briquettes

For the lentils 200 g Onano lentils 50 g tomatoes 30 g white onion 30 g celery 30 g extra virgin olive oil 20 g carrot 3 g cumin seeds 2 g smoked paprika 1 bay leaf 1 sprig of fresh thyme ½ garlic clove salt and pepper For the vinegar gel 100 g organic white balsamic vinegar 1 g agar agar

For the eels: fillet them, cut them with a well sharpened knife creating a hole that crosses the whole length of the fish. Insert a pork bone into each fillet, then smoke for about 1 hour at 4° C. Once this is done, put the eels in a sous vide bag and cook for 30 minutes at 54° C. Then grill them on the barbecue for about 20 minutes, making sure that the temperature is not too high. Occasionally glaze with a reduction of liquid glucose, ginger, garlic, anchovy sauce and sweet wine. The result should be very caramelized and crispy fillets on the skin side.

For the lentils: stew in a pan with a little olive oil, vegetables, spices and herbs for about 30 minutes. After this time, blend about half of it and and place the obtained purée back in the pot for creaminess.

For the vinegar gel: bring the vinegar to a boil with the agar agar, then cool and blend until you have a smooth and silky gel.

Place an eel fillet on each plate, a spoonful of lentils next to it and garnish with the vinegar gel.

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RECIPES

Bread, butter and anchovies ingredients for 4 For the pasta dough 250 g “0” flour 150 g egg yolks 50 g burnt wheat flour 20 g water For the filling 200 g mascarpone, beaten with a whisk For the broth 250 g water 30 g kombu seaweed 30 g colatura di alici fish sauce 3 g orange juice 3 g lemon juice 2 g lime juice assorted citrus rinds For the garnish 150 g fresh anchovies 30 g sourdough bread crust shavings raw salt cane sugar extra virgin olive oil

For the pasta: add all the pasta ingredientsin a stand mixer and knead with a hook attachment for a few minutes to obtain a smooth and compact dough. Seal it in vacuum or with cling film and place in the fridge overnight. The following day, roll out the dough with a pasta machine to 1 mm thickness. Dot with balls of whipped mascarpone. With the help of a square food mold, fold into tortelli and place them in the fridge on a lightly floured cloth.

For the broth: bring the water to a boil, remove from the heat and add the kombu and the citrus peel, then let it cool, then work it into the etamine and add the citrus juice previously filtered with the anchovy sauce.

Clean and debone the anchovies, then put them in the freezer for 72 hours or in a blast chiller at –30° C for 24 hours. Once back at room temperature, place them on a baking sheet and season with raw salt and cane sugar, then leave to marinate at least overnight.

The following day, quickly shock them in a bowl with ice and dry them immediately. Then put them in a container filled with extra virgin olive oil and keep in the fridge.

Boil the tortelli in salted water, put a little broth on the bottom of each plate, then place a few in the center and garnish with the anchovies and the bread crust shavings

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An essential book More thanfor60alle

More than 60 experts spent m An in every reg Moreboo th An essential

RECIPES

More than 60 experts

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Cuttlefish in the net ingredients for 4 4 cuttlefish each weighing 60 g 100 g caul fat (also known as lace fat, omentum, crépine or fat netting) 3 g powdered fennel pollen 2 bay leaves 1 garlic clove For the filling 100 g homestyle sourdough 30 g extra virgin olive oil 20 g vinegar 20 g raisins, soaked until plump 10 g pine nuts, toasted 10 g fresh fennel pollen orange zest garlic zest

For the liver sauce 100 g cuttlefish innards 50 g extra virgin olive oil 50 g white wine 20 g white onion 20 g Piccadilly tomatoes Parsley stems 50 g wild herbs (wild garlic, chrysanthemums, crispigni, radish tops, ramolacci, chicory, catmint etc.) colatura di alici (anchovy sauce) unfiltered apple cider vinegar extra virgin olive oil

Clean the cuttlefish making sure to leave them whole and not to remove the bone, cleaning out the entrails with the help of a paring knife and keep aside.

For the filling: blend the bread in the mixer, season with vinegar, olive oil, minced fennel pollen and orange and garlic zest. Once everything is well mixed, add the raisins and the toasted pine nuts.

For the chicken liver sauce: sauté the cuttlefish entrails over a high heat, add garlic, onion, tomato and parsley stalks. Once browned, add the white wine and a glass of water. Let stew for about 10 minutes, pass through a sieve and season with salt and pepper.

Stuff the cuttlefish with the previously prepared filling , then roll in the caul netting with ¼ bay leaf, powdered fennel pollen and a few slices of garlic. Cook on the barbecue over high heat and finally add a drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil and freshly ground pepper.

Season the wild herb salad with a vinaigrette made with olive oil, apple cider vinegar and anchovy sauce.

Place a cuttlefish on each plate, add some wild herbs and garnish with the sauce.

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2360 producers 83 Tre Bicchieri verdi 415 Tre Bicchieri EDITIONS 2360 producers 20000 wines 83 Tre Bicchieri verdi 415 Tre Bicchieri Italian 20000 wines EDITIONS 83 Tre BicchieriEnglish verdi 415 Tre Bicchieri EDITIONS Italian 83Italian Tre Bicchieri verdi German English

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www.gamberorosso.it 2530 PRODUCERS Japanese www.gamberorosso.it 22100 WINES

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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Gianluca Atzeni, Emiliano Gucci, William Pregentelli, Loredana Sottile PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Diamante Beghetto, Barbara Santoro, Alessandro Naldi GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class Pubblicità SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it

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