Gambero Rosso Wine travel Food n.146

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WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

The Unexpected Evolution of Traminer GRILLO DI SICILIA, A PIRANDELLIAN GRAPE

MATTEO BARONI SIGNATURE DISHES

year 23 - number 146 - january-february 2021 - gamberorosso.it


SOMMARIO WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

The Unexpected Evolution of Traminer GRILLO DI SICILIA, A PIRANDELLIAN GRAPE

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Editorial

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News

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The Wine to Buy

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Seasonal Cocktail

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My Export

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The Week of Italian Cuisine in the World

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How to build a contemporary wine list

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Nussbaumer: a memorable vertical tasting

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Grillo di Sicilia. A pirandellian grape for a wine with many identities

 54 

Great chefs: Mattia Baroni

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year 23 - number 146 - january 2021 - gamberorosso.it

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Year Zero 2021 2020 was a difficult year. The Covid-19 pandemic emergency put the entire planet in a crisis, affecting all fields of our economy and, especially, food agriculture, Ho.Re.Ca. and hospitality professionals. We can consider 2021 that has just begun as a Year Zero, a year in which to jump-start the Italy engine by transforming difficulties faced in 2020 into new opportunities. In this issue we wanted to listen to those who were, are now and will be in close contact with companies and businesses in our sector: marketers and agencies in the food & beverage world. Fifty professionals told us about their past experiences in this “different” year and their perception of the future. The keywords that emerged from these reports are manifold. Firstly, the digital conviviality that we are all used to and which is now part of our new normal. Social and work empathy that has transversally characterised, especially in the toughest months, the whole nation and which inevitably also revealed itself under the guise of digital empathy: a way to be closer to customers and producers. Various ideas with an ethical implication of fine dining and drinking with an increasingly accentuated sensitivity towards sustainability and biodiversity, with greater attention to the extraordinary peculiarity of our territories. These will be the paradigms of the new world that as Gambero Rosso we will be the first to embrace, continuing to accompany entrepreneurs, restaurateurs, pizza chefs, pastry chefs, bartenders, gelato makers, bartenders, wine and olive oil producers in the growth and creation of value in Italy and abroad. We therefore face this 2021 with optimism and determination, as also underlined by the collected testimonies that add to our perceived strength: the path we’ve taken has changed the way we promote and communicate. And, regardless of future restrictions, it will be the one to tread together for the rebirth of our Nation.

- Paolo Cuccia

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NEWS

Discovering the gastronomic shops of Trastevere, in Rome In recent months the streets of Trastevere have been emptied, a fate common to all the historical centers of the most tourist cities in Italy. But looking at the popular Roman district with new eyes can lead you to discover the network of historic shops that has preserved the traditional fabric of the area. The message comes loud and clear: long live local business!

1 Macelleria Signorini (via di San Francesco a Ripa, 50) Ponte Sisto

2 Norcineria Iacozzilli

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(via Natale del Grande, 15/16)

3 Antica Caciara (via di San Francesco a Ripa, 140)

Ponte Garibaldi

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Isola Tiberina

4 Pasticceria Valzani (via del Moro, 37 a/b)

5 Drogheria Innocenzi (via Natale del Grande, 31)

Santa Maria in Trastevere

6 Pasta all’uovo Sorelle Piras (via del Moro, 32)

7 Frutteria Er Cimotto (Piazza S. Giovanni della Malva, 6)

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Piazza Mastai

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René Redzepi’s sandwiches in Copenhagen: from the Noma to the Popl burger bar On the pier of Christianshavn the history of the Noma began more than ten years ago. Today, René Redzepi’s restaurant welcomes guests in the rural area on the border of Christiania, after the move that has given the project a more suitable space to grow. But Strandgade continues to be a prolific creative hub for the group led by the Danish chef. Popl is the latest invention by Noma: a burger and wine bar designed to welcome the people of Copenha-

gen, while the city awaits the return of foreign tourists. Popl, from the Latin popolus, is nothing more than a stable concretization of the concept conceived the day after the first lockdown in the garden of the Noma. An accessible table, in price, that follows the appreciated proposal during the weeks of spring pop up, expanding the offer without betraying the informal style of the concept.The undisputed protagonist is the hamburger, not detached from

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the work on fermentation that has become a trademark of Noma. In addition to the classic burger and cheeseburger, in fact, you can order the vegetarian and vegan variants of the burger: the meat, in this case, is replaced by a medallion of quinoa cooked and fermented, to reach the consistency of tempeh. Accompanying sides include chips, coleslaw, pickles and fermented peppers; for dessert, ice cream. And to drink natural wines, beer and cocktails.

Popl – Copenaghen Strandgade, 108 poplburger.com


NEWS

Do you know the real story of the wafers?

January is the month of candy, chocolate and sugar strands brought by the Befana. Which opens up to another sweet moment of the year, Carnival: when every region dusts off its traditional recipe to honour it in the most delicious of ways. But if there is one sweet snack that everyone, young and old, can agree on, it is the wafer: a crunchy biscuit made up of two or more wafers, traditionally filled with hazelnut cream. How many, however, know his story?

1 Wafer comes from waba, a term of uncertain origin used to indicate the honeycomb or the beehive; in fact, the printing of the wafer brings to mind the dense network of cells that characterizes the bees’ nest

2 The waffle biscuit has many ancestors, from Belgian waffles to German waffles. And even in Italy, already in the time of Lorenzo de” Medici, the art of the waffles – able to make thin dough sheets, baked at high temperature in plier moulds decorated with tiny geometric motifs – was very much appreciated 3 To have an official recipe, we had to wait until 1898, when the young Viennese Joseph Manner laid the foundations for the worldwide success of the wafer. He is responsible for the invention of the Neapoliter Wafer, 5 layers of waffle filled with hazelnut cream, for a total weight of 7. 5 grams 4 Alfons Loacker is the forefather of South Tyrolean wafers, who forever binds his name to the delicious cookies. The history of Loacker wafer begins in 1925 in the centre of Bolzano, in the workshop in Piazza Domenicani. Today, the company exports to 100 countries around the world.

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Vinitaly 2021 will take place. But in early summer

The 54th edition of Vinitaly will be held 20-23 June 2021, together with Enolitech and Sol&Agrifood. After repeated postponements in recent months, resulting in the cancellation of the 2020 edition, VeronaFiere decided to play in advance and without hesitation announced - as early as the end of last November - the new dates, the result of careful verification with institutions to obtain reliable forecasts on the pandemic curve and a survey involving the market, with the aim of identifying a period in which non-European buyers can also participate in more international events.”At the same time, there will be other events in Europe aimed at promoting the wine sector,” emphasises Giovanni Mantovani, Director General of VeronaFiere Spa. “This is a strategic and synergic decision to allow market and information operators, especially those from Asia and the USA, who are among the main visitors to our exhibitions, to optimise their participation with a single trip.

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Winemakers in the Most Prestigious Areas of Tuscany www . sanfelice . com


NEWS

Young people are looking for the countryside. Boom of agricultural enterprises under 35

What good has 2020 brought? Very little, given a balance of losses and calamities that are difficult to bear. Good news, however, is that coming from the Italian countryside, validating a trend that has been

going on for some time: more and more young people in Italy are pursuing the dream of working the land. By investing resources and ideas in projects that are slowly renewing the approach to the trade, in the sign of

environmentally and economically sustainable innovation. Over the last five years, the number of young farmers has grown by 14%, with a significant jump in the course of 2020.Data are provided by Coldiretti on investment in the under-35 Italian industry, who are increasingly attracted by the countryside to the detriment of other production activities. With more than 55,000 under 35 in charge of agricultural businesses and livestock, Italy – is the European leader in the number of agricultural projects led by young people. This suggests that agriculture may at last prove to be a great opportunity for future generations. The next objective is to cut red tape for access to credit.

Urban orchards and biodiversity in Ostuni, from the Middle Ages to the present The multiplication of urban gardens in Italy, shows a rediscovered desire to build community around a new awareness of food. There are also those who favour change to the point of making it structural, as an integral part of the administrative work of a city. It happens in Ostuni, where the Municipality has supported the recovery of 4 hectares of land near the Church of Santa Maria della Grata. The Gardens of the Grata, as they were renamed borrowing the name, are a legacy of medieval gardens that are now back to life and produce.Another six hectares are to be cultivated in the districts surrounding the centre of the charming white Apulian city, where the ancient Messapian tombs are now cisterns for storing rainwater. The cultivation is manual, in organic and biodynamic regime in aridoculture,

and the objective of the Solequo cooperative, which leads the project, is to recover autochthonous ecotypes, such as the cornaletto pepper, the zefferine pepper, the white artichoke, all linked to Ostuni. Soon, with the support of the

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administration, an artesian well will also be constructed. Target? Show that there is a market for biodiversity and that a different economy can be stimulated. Sharing the benefits with the entire community.


NEWS

THE WINE TO BUY

Roero Sudisfà Riserva 2017 ANGELO NEGRO Monteu Roero (CN) www.angelonegro.it Average retail price: 35 euros

The wine of the month leads us to the discovery of one of the greatest reds of Piedmont, awarded 9 times with the Tre Bicchieri recognition in our Vini d’Italia wine guide. A wine that demonstrates the potential of an area that competes at the highest levels with any other terroir. Where are we? In Monteu Roero, the vineyards of Ciabot San Giorgio, Prachiosso and Serra Lupini all give rise to their classic Roero wines (together with San Vittore in Canale), while Basarin in Neive hosts their Barbaresco and Baudana in Serralunga d’Alba their Barolo. The Negro family’s great vineyards have grown in recent years, and not just in Roero but in the Langhe as well. All their many wines, which feature great aromatic clarity, are made with native grape varieties and are marked by a classic style of remarkable typicity and territorial identity. On the nose the Roero Sudisfá Riserva ‘17 offers up notes of Mediterranean scrub, with balsamic and sweet citrus whiffs, while the palate proves large in volume, rich in fruit, with close-knit, but extreme fine tannins and a long, juicy finish. A very pleasant red, silky and rhythmic, airy and articulated, to be paired with a porcini mushroom fillet and the warm and deep voice of Tom Waits. If the sky promises rain outside, the combination will be even more powerful.

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SPIRITS

SEASONAL SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli by

HORTUM GALAXY Domenico Carella - Carico, Milano 3 cl Campari Bitter 2 cl Beet liqueur Top Citrus beer

Glass: Short Tumbler Technique: Build

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cocktail with a pleasantly bitter taste and at the same time fresh and thirstquenching, focused on two themes that are dear to the contemporary mixology philosophy, of which Carico is a spokesperson: the selection of the ingredients, seasonal and available on the market, and zero waste. hOrtum galaxy features red beetroot, with its fronds, and citrus fruits. The liqueur is made by macerating red beets in alcohol and subsequently adding sugar, while the beer is obtained through the fermentation of an unpasteurized lager with the addition of sugar, water and citrus peels left over after juicing. Garnish also reduces waste by using the part of the beets that is usually discarded, here dried in the microwave. Long live nature and health to all!

BARTENDER: Domenico “Dom” Carella, born in ’84, originally from the Basilicata coast, he enriched his wealth of experience by traveling and working abroad. He is Bar Manager of 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Shanghai - awarded as Bartender of the Year in Asia for “That’s Shanghai” in 2015 - Group Bar Manager of Bokan Canary Wharf in London and Beverage Director of Pirata Group in Hong Kong, with an Italian parenthesis as Group Bar Manager for Dry Milano. In 2019 he participated in the development of the well-known Milanese hospitality brands Langosteria and Aimo e Nadia, followed by opening his concept place Carico - Casual Risto Cocktail in February 2020 - which was awarded among the best Italian Cocktail Bars by Gambero Rosso 2021 Bar d’Italia guide. One of the major interpreters of the concept of the bar as a “liquid kitchen,” Carico blends his knowledge of ingredients and flavours to create minimalist cocktails that perfectly balance texture and taste, often using unexpected ingredients and borrowing cooking techniques, without ever forgetting the mixing of the great classics.

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WINERY

Corte Scaletta | Via Cao di Sopra 19 | 37036 Marcellise | Verona info@cortescaletta.it | www.cortescaletta.it Corte Scaletta Winery - Home | Facebook


NEWS

MY EXPORT Cristina Follador – Follador 1 What is the percentage of exports on the company total? The export percentage is 40%. Main countries are: England, Russia, Netherlands, Poland, Southeast Asia.

2 Where are sales best and worst, and why? The most receptive foreign market, beyond the domestic one, which for us represents 60% of turnover, is England: a market that has developed especially in the last 5-6 years and that is confronted with consumers that are more aware of the quality differences in Prosecco. The German market has been saturated for many years and consumers have a different perception of the taste of Prosecco.

3 What’s changed and how is export doing, before and during the lockdown? Working for the most part with the HoReCa channel including abroad, a collapse in sales was inevitable. Some countries were spared, such as Costa Rica, where Covid cases are limited and the reduced lockdown has allowed us to work anyway. We are present in reduced form in high-level large-scale distribution such as Waitrose in the UK where we’ve managed to keep a good level.

4 How do you envision the wine system should restart? What are the strategies, and what are your expectations? Certainly we need to acknowledge the difficulty of our distributors in restarting. Our decision to support them stems from this need, facilitating their own customers with promotional activities and educational initiatives in order to stimulate interest in their supplier companies. Examples of this include masterclasses aimed at the presentation of various products, like for example, webinars that allow the sales force to interact directly with the winery.

5 How do you normally promote your wines abroad and how are you doing it during the Covid-19 emergency? Usually the international trade fairs (ProWein and Vinitaly) are the events thanks to which we have been able to enrich our customer portfolio. The strategy that at this moment allows us to continue to promote ourselves is the marketing activity. Examples include the collaboration with iconic entities such as the National Gallery in London; sponsorship of golf events in partnership with important brands (such as BMW) during the various Open tournaments. We also support the Gianluca Vialli & Mauro Foundation for the fight against ALS; plus brand promotion through social channels. The latter activity allows us to increase sales through our online shop, which was implemented about two years ago.

 Follador | Col San Martino | Treviso| folladorprosecco.com

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STORIES EVENTS

It’s with dry pasta that we recognise ourselves as Italian by Lorenzo Ruggeri

Interview with Cristina Bowerman, President of the Ambassadors of Taste Association, ready for the new challenge in China. Her restaurant Glass is due to open in Xi’an What is Italian cuisine according to you? The ingredient, the technique. But if there is a characterising trait, I think of pasta, in particular dry pasta. In the United States I’ve seen fantastic fresh ravioli or tagliatelle being made, but as far as you can travel you will never find dry pasta treated the way we do it, with our culture, differentiation, not only in terms of type but how we work it. It has to do with our palate memory, we already know which pasta to associate with which sauce. And then the huge variety of shapes, the cooking techniques: cooking pasta like risotto, fresh pasta. We associate single techniques with specific shapes and types that others don’t have. And in cooking, in the texture and sensitivity with which we handle the pasta we distinguish ourselves, it defines us. In this, Italian cuisine is unrivalled.

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ook, entrepreneur and President of the Italian Ambassadors of Taste Association. We tapped into Cristina Bowerman, fresh winner of the Tre Forchette in the Restaurants of Italy guide with her Glass Hosteria in Rome.

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Abroad, Italian cuisine is strongly associated with very traditional home cooking, while modern cuisine finds it even more difficult to carve out its own space. Why is that? For me there is no modern or traditional cuisine, there is an Italian cuisine profile. When you walk down the street and see a well-dressed person, you don’t know which Italian designer made that coat, but you recognise an Italian style: the stitching, the balance of shapes. There is an Italian style. Same thing, there is no modern or traditional cuisine but a profile of flavours, which must be respected. I’ll give you an example. One of my best-selling dishes at Glass is modern Bagnacauda with black garlic, gnocchi, edamame, sea urchins, squid ink bread, seasonal black truffles. This recipe has nothing traditional but reflects the Italian profile: creamy, round, has unusual flavour peaks and yet I respect that canon of Italian cuisine and is recognized as such. Modern cuisine, including Italian cuisine, has been strongly influenced by Northern

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ITALIAN CUISINE

Europe, by the Noma lessons, which have transformed dishes into an essential, Nordic style, sometimes losing sight of our repertoire. Those dishes make sense if made in the centre of Rome, less if you bring them abroad as representatives of Italian cuisine.

too long to arrive, then we find ourselves like today with southern Italy that triples the production of kiwis, because they are more profitable since they keep for a long time. While with the money we have received during this crisis as an Association we are giving psychological support with a convention and free digital advice to those who request it. We realised that many restaurateurs hardly use Whatsapp.

Do you think the level of Italian cuisine in the world has improved? I have always had good experiences abroad. In my opinion, we start with an advantage because an average Italian restaurant abroad will always be better than a Chinese restaurant here in Italy, as an approach. Today the scenario has changed, the kids who go abroad do so by choice, they are professionals trained in important schools. It is no longer the waste that reinvents itself as chefs abroad. We are talking about a totally different generation, which in the world is also acquainted with a superior organisational capacity, learning a lot on an entrepreneurial and logistic level.

How many members? How can one join the Association? At the moment there are 120 partners, from Bottura to Niko Romito. But as mentioned, with the various networks today we reach over 100,000 professionals through 26 associations and others are about to join. How do you become an Ambassador of Taste? Any person can apply but one of the partners must guarantee for you. Guarantee what, you say? The candidate’s moral integrity, the professional approach but above all the ethical one.

How is the Ambassadors of Taste Association structured? What are you currently working on? During this period, our commitment to talking to the political party has intensified. Inside we have cooks, bakers, pizza makers, gelato makers. Now we are carrying out a confederation, an association of associations to give a more important structure, a discourse of representation of the category. Next year we will start with a course entirely planned by us at the IUM, the first recognized degree for entrepreneurs within the restaurant world. We are working on a market initiative, in the wake of what is happening in France, to give restaurateurs the opportunity to sell during market hours, a way to re-evaluate even more markets. I have a real passion for markets. The big problem today is how small producers get to big cities, there is a logistical problem. This is a fundamental aspect, because if the goods take

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What’s next? We are about to open Glass in China, in Xi’an, a historic city that has undergone a great revaluation in recent years. The architect, Andrea Lupacchini, is the same as the flagship Glass in Trastevere, the structure is beautiful. My maitre D and sous chef are momentarily stalled, but they will soon be leaving for China. We will have a soft opening after the Chinese New Year, at the moment we tried menus with videos and lessons via we-chat. The offer? The Chinese are very sensitive to savoury, umami sensations. Some of our flavours can be annoying. For sure we will focus strongly on dry pasta, of course there will be some of my classics, such as ravioli del plin di amatriciana and those stuffed with 60-month Parmigiano fondue with mushrooms and truffles.

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BOOKS

BOOKS by Antonella De Santis

THE AUGMENTED OMNIVORE

THE SWEET SIDE OF OUR COUNTRY

CUISINE OF THE NORTH

TABLE DESSERTS

Questions, reflections, doubts and provocations. In a nutshell, a series of lectures on food and how we enjoy it, as animals and as social animals. An analysis that uses the tools of anthropology and adopts a liberal and libertarian vision that encompasses everything without preconceptions and parochialism. But rather thinking of man as an “augmented omnivore” who is able to eat anything. But above all as a voracious being who chews symbols and values, and uses foods, recipes and traditions to tell, distinguish, profess, fantasize, connect with others, give meaning to time and facts that concern him.

Stories of bakers, ice cream makers, pastry chefs and all those figures linked to the world of sweets, told by Veronica Triolo, soul of Fragolosablog.com, and illustrated by Ian P. Benfold Haywood. A book that discusses beauty, children, communication, art, food and nutrition and includes original recipes and contributions from James Bradburne of the Pinacoteca di Brera, to Davide Paolini, Vito Mollica and Roberta Capua. From Karime Lopez of Gucci Osteria with his Purple Rain, to Paolo and Andrea Sacchetti of the Nuovo Mondo pastry shop in Prato: the discovery of the region of know-how.

The story of Magnus Nilsson’s legendary Fäviken, from birth to its closing in 2019. A valuable volume, with a chronological list of all the dishes, 100 memorable recipes, great photographs, but above all a careful analysis of the role of haute cuisine today. With its values and its critical points. A reflection on creativity, imitation, plagiarism and inspiration, the value of craftsmanship, the importance of social communication, the difficulties in running a successful restaurant, the environmental, human and social sustainability that such an activity implies.

What do desserts look like in restaurants today? How does a pastry chef work and how does his work differ from that of a classic pastry chef? Giuseppe Amato - pastry chef alongside Heinz Beck at the Pergola in Rome - responds with a rigorous and systematic approach to restore autonomy, dignity and identity to this figure. In the book, along with the pastry chef’s iconic recipes, affinities and differences between laboratory and restaurant pastries are outlined, as well as an excursus into the history of desserts from Nouvelle Cousine to the present day.

A proposito del gusto Ernesto Di Renzo Cinquesensi editore 176 pp. - 20€

Dolce Firenze & Toscana Veronica Triolo Nuova Editoriale Florence Press 176 pp. - 18€ in Italian and English

I have more and more books on the nightstand that I read depending on my mood. I’m really enjoying the story of James Beard, a famous chef and cookbook author who was later followed by the American Foundation. The man who ate too much, byJohn Birdsall (WW Norton&Co Inc, 448p,

WHAT DOES A WRITER READ? RISPONDE MADDALENA FOSSATI (Director of La Cucina Italiana and Condé Nast Traveller ItalY)

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Fäviken: 4015 Days, Beginning to End Magnus Nilsson Phaidon 324 pp. - 54,95€ in English

La Pasticceria da Ristorazione Contemporanea. Rigore Creativo Giuseppe Amato, Lucilla Cremoni Chiriotti Editori 310 pp. - 70€

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BOOKS

RECIPES FROM THE GUIDA HOUSEHOLD

THE SECRETS OF OTHERS

SEPARATED YET CLOSE

STYLE AT THE TABLE

Peppe Guida, chef and owner of Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa and Villa Rosa - La Casa di Lella in Vico Equense, has the innate gift of the master, and proves it with this new book, a legacy of his appearances on social media during the lockdown. A daily appointment in which he taught, literally, how to cook his dishes: delicious, familiar, but above all always perfect. And always replicable, even in the case of complex recipes such as the legendary rice sartù, a sumptuous traditional dish that honours Sunday lunches.

The recipe for running a business? Pasquale Polito, Davide Sarti and the team of Forno Brisa – at the end of 5 years of life and growth – explain it through the example of business success stories that do not betray values, ideas and ethics. Because business and best practices can coexist happily. This is borne out by names such as Carlo Petrini, Salvatore Ceccarelli, Davide Longoni and Gian Luca Farinelli, who reveal the ingredients and tricks of the craft by delving into some fundamental pillars of a model of contemporary craft enterprise, from training to choosing a master, from location to team.

A book born during lockdown, from the comparison between more than 150 people who, at a distance and in an age of social distancing, want to enhance the social power of food and dining, even if living in solitude. And at the same time, also the role of a community able to support projects and ideas through crowdfunding, in a non-erosive consumption perspective but capable of development and creation. Monoporzioni is a collective book with a strong creative flair, with 14 essays and 16 recipes designed and written for one person only. But they celebrate the value of the community. With a poster that gives a visual account of an independent project.

A master of style, Csaba dalla Zorza has known, more than anyone else, how to combine good food and good manners in a perfectly contemporary way. And this time, too, she does the same in the perspective of a lifestyle and food habits that are healthy, tasty, mindful of waste. But also in harmony with the demands of daily life. 120 healthy, tasty, fast, practical, seasonal recipes with the right amount of creativity to create a new tradition in the kitchen and at the table. Not to mention the instructions for the composition of the menus, the pairing of the wine, the preparation of the table.

Le ricette di casa mia. 100 ricette a spreco zero per onnivori, vegetariani, ma soprattutto veri buongustai Peppe Guida Gambero Rosso Ed. 208 pp. - 21.50€

Ricette Rubate Forno Brisa Vandenberg Edizioni 208 pp. - 25€

34€) explains a lot about food in the United States. I adore La forza della fragilità di Brené Brown (Vallardi, 292 p, 14,90 €), a book that we should all read because it tells about leadership and vision, about the future and positivity, and about the value of courage. Gli indifferenti di Alberto Moravia (Bompiani,

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Monoporzioni Ziczic – 232 pp. crowdfunding from 30€

The modern cook. 120 ricette per una nuova tradizione quotidiana Csaba dalla Zorza Guido Tommasi 352 pp. - 35€

324 p, 13€), a rough story but I wanted to read it after having crossed an article about the new film with Valeria Bruni Tedeschi. Interesting La vita segreta dei cuochi di Marco Bolasco e Marco Trabucco, (Giunti, 320 p, 18€) on the great restaurants of Italy.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CHIARLI

Discovering the new Generation of Lambrusco with Tommaso Chiarli 1

It was the year 1860, when Cleto Chiarli decided to change his business, closing the Trattoria dell’Artigliere in Modena to devote himself entirely to wine, given the success of his Lambrusco. A happy intuition, supported by the increase in sales well outside the province; until 1900 when he obtained Mention Honorable at the Universal Exposition in Paris. Tommaso Chiarli today represents the fifth generation, grandson of Cleto and Anselmo Chiarli. He has brought a breath of fresh air to the company with a younger and more dynamic vision in response to the pandemic crisis. “We have always been innovative in the production field, among the first in 1959 to introduce the Charmat method - Tommaso says - in 1960 we launched the Lambrusco di Sorbara Cen-

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tenario label for the first hundred years and between the Seventies and Nineties, we followed the impetuous growth of the market in Italy and abroad, effectively managing the momentary decline in interest in Lambrusco and showing a lively will to rect.” In 2001, Chiarli, which continued to be firmly in the hands of the family, decided to unify the management of the seven owned estates. Thus was born, in Castelvetro, in the heart of the Modenese countryside, the Cleto Chiarli Tenute Agricole, a new entity of more than 350 hectares divided into three estates, in particular - Tenuta Cialdini, Tenuta Belvedere and Tenuta Sozzigalli. “Our Lambrusco is destined for large-scale distribution and part of HoReCa. Until now we know that wine sold in large-scale distribution and discount stores has not suffered financial collapses - says Tommaso - because consumers, who did not go to restaurants or other places, bought it in these points of sale. In foreign markets, on the other hand, where quality sales were aimed at the HoReCa sector, the entire Cleto Chiarli range, present in almost all countries, underwent growth. This market is strongly rewarding us as new consumers begin to appreciate the dry, sparkling and low alcohol style that Lambrusco offers.” The current oenological crisis has led consumers to turn to lower-end wines which is registering an increase in demand for wines in big bottles or in bag in box. “In light of this - says Tommaso - we, as Chiarli, are trying to keep the aforementioned quality products alive through new sales channels and advertising investments through e-commerce sales such as Vivino USA and Wine.com. Surely the possibility of offering different product ranges and prices in the various international markets will help us overcome this low period, but we are aware that the quality journey undertaken by Chiarli and many colleagues in the area must be such.” And for those who wish to taste it on their tables, how would they appreciate Lambrusco best? “Lambrusco in the various denominations and grape varieties offers ample space for pairing with Italian cuisine. It’s important to distinguish Lambrusco di Sorbara from Grasparossa di Castelvetro. The former has a marked acidity, few tannins and an unmistakable freshness. For

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CHIARLI

1. Tommaso Chiarli 2. Vineyars 3. Bottles of Premium Vecchia Modena Lambrusco and Vigneto Cialdini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro

this reason, in addition to the typical pork cured meats of the Emilia tradition, it goes perfectly with fatty and salty dishes such as fried fish and tuna and salmon sushi. The latter, thanks to its roundness and more pronounced tannins, can be paired with meat-based dishes, such as American and Korean barbecues. In its most “amabile” sparkling version, it pairs well with many spicy dishes of Chinese and Indian culture.”

by Stefania Annese

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 Chiarli - Via Belvedere, 3 -Castelvetro di Modena (MO) - +39 059 3163311 - chiarli.it

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DESIGN

DESIGN by Sonia Massari

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DESIGN

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THE ART (AND GESTURES) OF DECANTING

DRINKING IS GOOD FOR EVERYONE. . . EVEN CATS

Travasi is a collection of five jugs designed by Astrid Luglio for Ichendorf Milano. Borosilicate glass emphasizes the gesture of “decanting” a liquid ingredient from the package in which it is sold to a serving object. Freely interpretable hybrid objects that retain their functionality and expand the possibilities of use. The coloured glass funnel deliberately becomes the protagonist. Wine, water, coffee, milk, oil, vinegar: each model can be assigned a different role depending on the need, but also on the form, building a different story each time.

Food design is the search for creative solutions for the nutrition of our beloved pets. Gurgle, is the first tool that allows the cat to drink comfortably from the sink at home. Cats often have a conflictual relationship with water: they hate getting wet and tend to drink little, which is why they are often dehydrated. The cat prefers running water and easily learns to drink from the sink faucet, but drinks only a few sips. Instead, with Gurgle, cats will be able to drink more and for longer. The designers are Carlo Dameno and Elena Rausse.

astridliglio.com

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SINGLE-PORTION BECOMES A COLLECTIVE RECIPE

SUSTAINABLE EATING

16 recipes, 14 stories, 151 people connected from their kitchens during the spring of 2020. Monoporzioni was born from the experience of Smart Co. cooking, video call appointments organized during the lockdown by Cozinha Nomade, an experimental atelier that shares a virtual table with friends and strangers giving a new value to food and conviviality. Monoporzioni is a generative book, consisting of recipes designed and written for one person. An alternative cookbook that is not just for cooking, but that wants to approach and narrate rituals, times and transformations of food, in spaces and relationships at the time of Covid.

kedyclaudiacellamare@gmail.com produzionidalbasso.com

cairnyoung.com

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CREATIVE DRINKS TO BUILD COMMUNITY

THE CLEAN WRAP THAT DOESN’T POLLUTE, AT KM0

Comunità Frizzante is a network born in Vallagarina, Trento, which involves agro-ecologists, social workers, researchers and eco-social designers. Their challenge is to design and produce, in a participatory and experimental way, a line of artisanal sparkling drinks, indissolubly linked to the local economy and ecology. They take over the entire production process with the aim of (re) generating and discovering resources on the territory, cultivating relationships and a sense of belonging.

comunitafrizzante.it

KLIKK is a set of cutlery and crockery made from totally recyclable materials, selected as one of the best home design projects for the Dezeen Awards 2020. The tableware is beautiful, but above all reusable, ideal for all those who have to eat out and who want to be sustainable to preserve our Planet from the use of plastic.

Beeopak is the anti-waste clean wrap made with beeswax that helps keep food fresh thanks to its breathable and antibacterial properties. It is sourced from Piedmont suppliers who respect the natural life cycle of insects. Easily washable and reusable for more than a year, the bees wrap is a simple and inexpensive way that encourages local production and sustainable agriculture, with the goal of avoiding waste and not using plastic. The patterns are exclusive and made by a local designer.

beeopak.com

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STORIES EVENTS

How to build a contemporary wine list by Lorenzo Ruggeri

The Villa Sandi Contemporary Wine List Award is the prize we reserve for the most current, brilliant and user-friendly wine lists in our Top Italian Restaurants guide, dedicated to the best of Italian dining in the world. While waiting to resume awarding venues around the world, we’re offering an educational journey through the multi-colour ‘Jurassic Park’ that is Italian viticulture. We’re proposing a series of themes, with practical advice and suggestions, published every two weeks on our international website www.gamberorossointernational.com

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et’s start from the wine list. What constitutes a winning wine list today? What is changing? Certainly, an encyclopedic wine list is no longer necessary, but a rea-

soned selection, overcoming the widely consolidated rule that markups serve to cover many other of the venue’s cost items. Meanwhile, the menu must have a philosophy in contact with the cuisine and the soul of the place. The wine list

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has two main contacts with which it must know how to communicate: the kitchen and customers’ pockets. Thus we have identified 5 main directives to properly evaluate a wine list. Let’s see them, point by point.


WINE

1. Identity First of all, a wine list must possess identity, character, its own connotation. It must absorb and bring back flavours, research and passion of those who drafted it. A wine list with a couple of clearly identifiable strengths is appreciable, whether they are bubbles from beyond the Alps or Italy, a crush on Ligurian whites or an obsession with nebbiolo. Regional lists can also be outdated, considering how oftentimes a number of references are not functional to the project but seem rather included just to have them and tick certain boxes. Like that friend who gets called at the last minute for the buddy soccer game just to have enough players on each team. New filters can reorder the wine list by style, variety, occasion, and so on. Let’s remember: a wine list has character if it can stay alive, staying up to date with healthy turnover and brave choices.

2. Structural coherence A wine list can furthermore exude character and identity but if it doesn’t have organic coherence it becomes a useless, expensive object. To be available for consultation and immediate reading, it must respect an internal

order, starting with the mandatory presence of the following fields, preferably in the following order: denomination, name of the wine, vintage, winery. Structural coherence also means homogeneous markups in each wine type.

3. Ability to pair It’s important to have a strong link between the proposals of the kitchen, the choice of ingredients and the selection of labels: a territorial, artisanal reasoning, of taste assonance, of contrast, of balance, etc. Remembering that wine must be an ally of the dish, therefore we seek: drinkability, freshness, integrity, acidity. There are great wines - truth be told, in the past here at Gambero Rosso we’ve awarded far too many - that struggle at the table. A half-finished bottle is an insult against the sommelier, just like a dish sent back to the kitchen is for a chef. Therefore, it’s important to focus on gastronomic wines par excellence, like refreshing bubbles but also sharp whites and light and pointy reds. Think of the lightness of Grignolino, the acid touch of a Barbera or a wildcard such as Cerasuolo or Frappato.

4. Surprise effect: playfulness Something unpredictable, not necessarily a Biondi Santi Riserva 1955 or some other oenological monument. Equally surprising is a rare format on some niche wines, old vintages of

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wines usually consumed young but that are reliable (in regards to whites in Italy it’s big game at big and low prices, think of Verdicchio or Fiano); or a 500-bottle rosé, some foreign gem to give international breath to the wine list. In short, include something that’s not very accessible in ordinary life, something that creates expectation and narration. Perhaps enriching the wine list with a proposal of the day that sits outside the volume, designed precisely to pair with specials recited at the table.

5. A contemporary proposal by the glass Offering wine by the glass is the best way to present oneself. A white, a red and a good bubble cannot be missing. The ten-course menus with ten wine pairings are ancient history, there is no need for an exaggerated wine list. On the contrary 3-5 wines chosen with intelligence will invite the customer to go further, who will eventually go on to ordering a bottle. These must be fresh, sharp, airy wines, capable of making customers hungry and stimulating the mouth at best. We close with the Coravin option, a diabolical tool that quintuples the surprise effect mentioned in point 4. For a restaurant with a deep wine cellar, Coravin offers something unique. You’ve been waiting for this dinner for months, and you’re offered a 2001 Pergole Torte by the glass? Danger for the wallet!



NUSSBAUMER: A MEMORABLE VERTICAL TASTING

The Tramin cooperative winery has a long history that is intimately linked with the main grape variety of the area: gewürztraminer. A varietal that has established itself thanks mostly to the aperitivo culture among young people, being a wine that's not particularly suitable for the whole meal. Today Gewürztraminer is one of the great South Tyrolean wines, as evidenced by the Nussbaumer vertical

words by Gianni Fabrizio - photos by Florian Andergassen


STORIES

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W

e are in Alto Adige, a wine region where cooperation has been in vogue for a long time: Tramin - now the official name of the winery founded in 1898 is the third social winery born. T oday, it represents over 180 families - with an even higher number of members (about 300). Given the fragmentation of the land and given that, perhaps, father and son individually own and confer the grapes of their respective vineyards - and more than 260 hectares in the Bassa Atesina, on the western side of the Adige valley, mainly between Termeno and Cortaccia, Ora, Egna and Montagna on the eastern bank of the river.

A TRICKY NAME The municipality of Tramin excels in many grape varieties, but has a privileged relationship with gewürztraminer which in this micro-area finds its undisputed terroir of choice, so much so that it represents in the locals economy – with just under 60 hectares of vineyards – almost 22% of the entire vineyard park. Other very important grape varieties for this region, such as chardonnay, schiava, lagrein and pinot grigio, follow at a safe distance. For a long time, the fact of having in the name the adjective "traminer" (which indicates the origin: "belonging to Tramin'' or "Termeno") has led erroneously to believe that the vine originated here: but science and in particular genetics tell us that the variety is a spontaneous mutation of the pink savagnin grape in turn deriving from white savagnin, a mutation that probably occurred in the distant past in

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southern Germany, in vineyards of present-day Baden Württemberg. In truth, at that time the wine of Termeno, at the time probably produced with moscato and other local varieties, already enjoyed great fame among German-speaking countries. In fact, from the middle of the 13th century onwards, there are numerous written sources that mention the wine of Tramin, considered to be of the highest quality. It is very likely that in that historical period smarter German merchants began to sell their wine (obtained from the aromatic mutation of savagnin and therefore resembling the wine of Tramin) with the name of Traminer, playing on the notoriety of the terroir. It would therefore have spread the habit of giving that grape the name of our famous wine-growing municipality, subsequently adding the wording "gewürz," which in German means spicy.


1. Wolfgang Klotz and Willi Stürz, respectively commercial marketing manager and technical director of Cantina Tramin 2. Well-ripened bunches of gewürztraminer in the rows of the Termeno winery 3. Bottles of Nussbaumer ready for the tasting 4. The 20 vintages of Nussbaumer for the vertical tasting with the experts: from left, Wolfgang Klotz, Gianni Fabrizio, Marco Sabellico, Giuseppe Carrus, Lorenzo Ruggeri and Willi Stürz

A RECENT BREAKOUT HIT Probably arriving in South Tyrol only around the mid-1800s, gewürztraminer found itself well in the Bassa Atesina (the area that goes from the southern border of the Bolzano province to Termeno and which includes Ora on the other side of the Adige, Egna and Montagna) and in Oltradige (from the northern border of Termeno to the southern border of the city of Bolzano). From there it spread very slowly throughout South Tyrol, especially in recent years, in the wake of a sudden commercial success. Due to its characteristics of fattiness and aromatics, and also of sweetness, the grape is not the ideal companion to clean the mouth during a meal - unless we delve into complicated recipes of Asian origin that are not however part of our daily habits - and therefore the basis of its success can be found elsewhere. The 

Nussbaumer. 20 years of Tre Bicchieri 2018

ALTO ADIGE GEWÜRZTRAMINER NUSSBAUMER

The vintage. The season started out slowly and a bit lazily, due to a not particularly hot winter climate, and budding happened relatively late. Subsequently the heat that characterised April and May, together with the good water supply, led to an early flowering and a perfect fruit set which gave a very abundant harvest. Fortunately, the very hot and dry summer was balanced by abundant rains just before the harvest, which took place between 20 September and 4 October, under a dry and sunny climate. The wine. Beautiful looks with a very intense straw colour and illuminated with bright green flashes. Initially a little shy on the nose, it opens quickly, generous and harmonious, with citrus hints, memories of fresh grass and sage that then leave room for the beautiful sensations of rose water: still very young yet so promising. On the palate the unexpected vitality and freshness in such a rich and pulpy wine truly amaze.

2017

The vintage. Germination happened earlier than the average, thanks to a very hot end of March and early April. This climate continued throughout May and drought was also added in June which made flowering and fruit set more difficult, limiting production. A slightly wetter July was not enough to reverse the situation, because it was followed by a hot and very sunny August. The small showers at the beginning of September unlocked ripening but did not remedy the lack of juice in the berries. Starting immediately after mid-September and ending around October 5th, the harvest was rather stingy even if healthy. The wine. The appearance did not differ much from 2018, as well as the sense of smell that immediately offers the classic and intense notes of rose, lychee and slightly less insistent sensations of orange peel. Enriching the profile are also aromas of honey and pink pepper with a touch of saffron in the finish: even wider and more open than the previous. The mouth also in this case manages to conceal its fatness and its alcohol content while not denying its nature made of great pulp and richness. It is impressive to see how the very long finish naturally brings such important material.

2016

The vintage. The end of winter and all of spring recorded quite a variable climate but without creating worries for the budding and flowering that took place in the average time, although with a delay compared to 2017. The rainy months of May and June caused large concerns to winegrowers who had to fight against pathogens, with repeated treatments. In general, a rather cool summer delayed the phenological phases and therefore the fruit setting was substantially late. A splendid autumn, with the months of August and September that alternated mild daytime temperatures with quite cool nights, brought healthy grapes to perfect physiological ripeness. The harvest took place between the 5th and 21st of October. The wine. Definitely less showy than 2015 that some have defined as intellectual. The golden hue in fact becomes more timid and the nose, in general, appears less exuberant but certainly no less fascinating. Rose petals leave room for white flowers (hawthorn and lily of the valley) and the fruity part disappears in front of the strong spiciness (cumin, anise and pink pepper) with even some mineral appeal. On the palate, it boasts an unusually vertical shape, placing balance and freshness at the centre of attention. A great interpretation of a later and less hot harvest. 


STORIES

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MINI GLOSSARY Millerandage The millerandage operation is also known by the name of "thinning out the bunches" and is equivalent to "the removal of small grapes belonging to the same bunch." To avoid having bunches of too many different sizes. Botrytis Botrytis cinerea is a fungus of the Sclerotiniaceae family, a parasite that attacks many varieties of plants, even if among the various hosts the most economically important one is the vine (in particular it attacks the bunches of grapes). It is called noble rot when,

the elements that give life to scents.

in general conditions of warmer and drier climate, humid conditions alternate due to the morning dew or rainy episodes that raise the degree of humidity thus favouring a limited diffusion of the fungus which increases, due to withering, the sugar content of the grapes without damaging excessively.

Fine lees The lees that derive from the grape pressing process are increasingly important in winemaking. They are divided into total lees and fine lees: the former are the deposits deriving from alcoholic fermentation and contain a very high amount of impurities (tartaric salts, microorganisms or plant residues), while the latter are the residues that are deposited after the first racking. These are the most valuable.

Temperature range It is the difference between the highest temperature, also called "maximum temperature," and the lowest, or "minimum temperature," in a given time interval and in a given place. For grapes, it determines an increase in

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Malolactic Malolactic fermentation is a fermentative event following alcoholic fermentation. Lactic acid bacteria, due to a temperature rise that usually occurs in spring, triggers malolactic fermentation in the wine: the malic acid, present in the grapes, is transformed into lactic acid and carbon dioxide making the wine generally softer and rounder and dampening the acid push. Most of the reds and whites destined for longer aging are affected. Young and drinkable wines and the Classic Methods avoid it.


NUSSBAUMER VERTICAL TASTING

boom in sales coincided, in Italy, with the growing aperitivo culture among younger people where wine replaced cocktails paired with tasty snacks. THE ROLE OF TRAMIN IN THE SUCCESS OF WINE In this success, the work of the Tramin winery is precious, having three excellent reasons to be considered one of the flagship companies in Italy and in the world regarding the success of gewürztraminer: it dedicates almost 60 hectares to the cultivar (well over 20% of the viticultural heritage of the winery); produces six distinct gewürztraminer labels; it is the first winery to have obtained 100/100 for an Italian white wine, produced from the queen grape of the area. In fact, being in the center of the most suitable area for the cultivation of an excellent but quite capricious grape variety, the cooperative winery of Termeno has always worked for 

Pre Fermentation To increase the oxidative stability of polyphenols and aromas over time, a particular white vinification technique involves oxidation as complete as possible of the unstable components of the must. This technique is performed in pre fermentation by blowing oxygen into the mass. The resulting product takes on a brownish colour and the oxidized polyphenols are then removed by casting (proteins and/or PVPP). This is because the aromatic precursors are still protected in the bound form and therefore most of the varietal characteristics of the grape can be preserved.

2015

The vintage. Wanting to define 2015 in a nutshell, we could say that it is an early and basically hot vintage but without any excess. A mild spring immediately announced the colour, giving way to the various phenological phases (budding, flowering, fruit set, veraison) with a slight advance on the averages of the last ten years, to be considered in turn earlier than the harvests of the past. In actual fact, apart from the early vegetative growth that lasted until the harvest - from September 16th to October 6th - the very regular seasonal climate, with cool nights, made it possible to harvest ripe and healthy grapes without haste. The wine. Visually it's already possible to see the difference with the previously tasted millesimes: the intense golden hue betrays that we are in the presence of a rich and opulent white, full of life. The nose is intense, enveloping and complex, with varietal notes expressed with boldness (dog rose, lychee, orange peel and mandarin), with distant notes of spice (cinnamon and ginger) and fruit (peach and medlar). In the mouth it opens with volume and wide with a nice creaminess. Despite a right acid balance, we are facing a great Gewürztraminer which, unlike 2016, makes glyceric richness its strong point.

2014

The vintage. It was complicated from a climactic point of view, intense and frequent rains characterised the entire vegetative phase, creating quite a few cryptogamic problems and more. For example, one physiopathy occurred, which was probably due to the climate peaks, which caused the rachis to dry up, interrupting nourishment of the fruits by the plant and thus blocking their ripening. Fortunately the members of the Nussbaumer project work on small plots and were therefore able to carefully monitor the harvest, removing the green grapes during the sorting phase. The wonderful end of the season allowed us to wait a long time for the harvest to bring ripe grapes to the cellar which saved the quality of the vintage at the cost of a very reduced production. The wine. It's not possible to say that the 2014 Nussbaumer was in no way affected by the vintage, but finding such a wine is simply amazing. This is an outof-the-box interpretation, which offers a wine with a more Nordic appearance, amd one of the leitmotifs is green. The eye perceives a straw yellow colour of medium intensity with green reflections, while the nose revolves around unusual hints of herbs, fresh fruit, citrus (grapefruit) and complex flint. The acidity of the palate tends to erase the richness and leaves us with a very drinkable wine that pays the price of the harvest a little in persistence.

2013

The vintage. It started very slowly, with the laziness of previous decades, before global warming took over. The late winter rains combined with temperatures that remained somewhat low led the vine to sprout with a certain delay. The other vegetative phases were also slightly delayed. However, 2013 looks like a balanced vintage, without the advances that increasingly occur in the wine field. Fortunately, during summer, there were very sunny days and the heat peaks that allow the plant to perfect its ripening, but which can also cause some scorching on the berries. Nevertheless, the harvest began at least ten days later than average (from the 3rd to the 25th of October). The wine. Nussbaumer 2013 is the first of the series that cannot lie about its age, but given the perfect evolution of the other vintages it could also be a case of a lower seal of the cork stopper. Visually we have a wine with intense and marked golden tones, which on the nose treads along a very baroque line, with aromas of canned peach and honey, but also with unexpected tones of undergrowth. The varietal is well present but the vitality and complexity of the best vintages is absent. The taste ends with a rich and pulpy mouth which lacks just a little panache. 


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NUSSBAUMER VERTICAL TASTING

2012

The vintage. Spring, which started early with somewhat mild temperatures, caused an early awakening of the vine, which sprouted well in advance. April was quite cool and slowed the vegetation which returned to average with the time of flowering. The summer enjoyed regular and never excessive weather, with regular rains at the most appropriate times, which allowed the plant, in good health, to grow harmoniously and without stress. Only an important heatwave at the end of August came to reduce yields a little, without however compromising good ripening. The harvest, which took place in excellent conditions and in normal times (between 21st of September and 8th of October), resulted in fresh and balanced wines. The wine. The appearance is still full of green reflections, which clearly demonstrates how young and vital the wine still is. After a slightly reduced beginning, the aromas develop in great harmony with the floral character in the foreground (pink with orange blossom in the background). Subsequently, complex spicy aromas of ginger and anise arrive, reminiscent of the Alsatian pain d'épices, with a finish enlivened by orange peel. On the palate the wine finds its strength in the masterful balance where richness and sweetness are well present and are supremely balanced by the sensations of freshness and the right bitter notes.

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its enhancement through impeccable production. The decisive turning point that led Tramin to grasp the enormous potential of the Gewürztraminer came with the arrival in 1989 of Willi Stürz. In a short time he managed to bring the winery to the top of regional production and to the top of world production regarding Gewürztraminer. In addition to the work based on the quality pyramid of Tramin wines, or of the partners, Willi decided, together with the most attentive winemakers, to identify the areas most suited to the cultivation of individual grapes and therefore to create a line of selections. But his greatest merit was his belief in a great dry and long-lived Gewürztraminer capable of improving over time, in the bottle. Gewürztraminer, like all aromatic grape varieties, is very popular with the general public, but is often snubbed by connoisseurs, who accuse it of being not very complex and unsuitable for aging. Today Willi and Tramin have proved 

The vintage. With one of the hottest starts of the season in recent decades, the vegetation started very early: the budding took place at a particularly early time. In addition to rather warm temperatures, the region experienced a long and unusual period of drought for this time of the year, which kept the vegetative advance unchanged. Only at the end of June did the longawaited rains finally arrive and a basically cool July slowed down the vegetation a bit. Then a very hot August and a dreamy September with alternating warm and sunny days and cool nights led to a beautiful early harvest (13-30 September) with healthy and well ripened grapes. The wine. The final result is a wine of almost ten years that only feels like two and that only asks to continue to mature for at least another ten. The golden dress is imbued with lively and bright tones, while the nose offers with natural insolence all the paraphernalia of the great gewürztraminer, demonstrating to all effects that it has the complexity of the great white: pink, yellow flowers, helichrysum, pepper and ginger. The mouth, less baroque than other vintages, is elegant and harmonious with a well present vein of freshness. An uncommon persistence is noteworthy.

2010

The vintage. Here is another vintage without extreme weather and with a seasonal climatic trend that we could define as balanced and which led to a regular ripening compared to the past but quite late if, instead, compared to others before it. The regular climate of the end of winter led us to a rather late bud break. The temperatures and rains of the following months, which were normal, with the exception of a few very hot weeks between June and July, kept the whole vegetative phase (from flowering to ripening) slightly delayed (harvest from September 27 to October 14). The significant changes in temperature between day and night in the last period preserved the aromas of the grapes, while those weeks of summer heat caused a loss of production, giving us smaller bunches and berries than usual but particularly concentrated. The wine. 2010 can count on the qualities of freshness that usually characterise the later and fresher harvests. It is a wine that speaks softly and that gives us less explosive floral aromas that leave room for refined memories of ginger and a beautiful and intense menthol note. The palate in turn reaffirms these char- 

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STORIES

acteristics of measure, but also of great longevity. As expected, on the palate it leaves a little aside the striking density of glycerin and sugars to amaze with its dense and progressive qualities, which lead it to a long finish that will have a lot to say in the near future.

2009

The vintage. The climate was undoubtedly benevolent with this vintage, so much so that we can count 2009 among the great harvests for South Tyrol and especially for gewürztraminer. After a vegetative start that saw the budding take place in the usual times, if not already with a very slight advance, in 2009 the sun and heat never failed their presence, especially in late spring and throughout the summer, accelerating the whole vegetative cycle. The harvest, weeks ahead of which had good nocturnal temperature variations, took place almost entirely during the month of September (17 September-1 October). The grapes brought to the cellar were intact and of great quality with important sugar gradations, combined with good acidity. The wine. In addition to a still very bright and lively look that runs through all shades of gold, the Nussbaumer 2009 has an enveloping and complex nose that in addition to floral and spicy notes, puts at the centre of attention beautiful measured sensations of ripe fruit (medlar, yellow peach and apricot). After a few minutes in the glass something strange and unexpected emerges - during the entire period before bottling, the wine has never seen barrels or barriques smoky notes and even burnt wood emerge in aged gewürztraminer. The mouth appears immediately exotic with the richness and fattiness of great vintages, but without any heaviness.

2008

The vintage. After starting with a bud break that took place in perfectly normal times, the 2008 vintage showed a generally adverse climate. Spring and summer were much less lenient, with temperatures that rarely reached or exceeded the seasonal averages, thus delaying the entire vegetative cycle (flowering, fruit set and veraison). Frequent and intense rainfall also occurred, which required additional care and work from the winegrowers and which caused the rachis to dry out, along the lines of 2014. The numerous hot and sunny days of late summer and early autumn saved the harvest that took place between the 19th of September and the 15th of October, and which can be considered long and laborious but overall very satisfying, especially in the higher elevation vineyards, where maturation usually takes place later. The wine. The nose of evident freshness leads us towards aromas of mint and arugula, which characterise the less hot vintages overall. Then, although less exuberant than usual and more in line with the characteristics of the vintage, also fruity and floral memories arrive. In the former case, jasmine and white flowers tend to replace the rose, while in the latter, white melon and apricot emerge. In the finish, delicately smoky tertiary notes make their appearance. There is certainly no lack of richness on the palate, but the contribution of acidity gives the whole a nice drinkability that rests on fresh and almost spicy sensations.

2007

The vintage. The mild winter pushed the vegetation to restart well in advance. During the spring, the climate did not undergo any particular changes, at least in its initial half, and therefore the temperatures in April and May were very warm, allowing the vine to retain the advance accumulated from the beginning of the vegetative period. Germination and, above all, flowering and fruit set, which took place early and with great weather, ensured a considerable production, quantitatively. With the month of June, abundant rains ar- 

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GEWÜRZTRAMINER IN FIGURES

World surface

14.300 Ha

France (Alsace)

3.100 Ha

South west Germany

800 Ha

Rheinhessen Pfalz Baden Württemberg

Austria (Styria)

300 Ha

Italia (north eastern)

42 %

1.400 Ha

Alto Adige

577 Ha 210 Ha

Appiano Termeno

+240% 50 Ha 1965

+124% 170 Ha

380 Ha

1996

2005

9 years 31 years


NUSSBAUMER VERTICAL TASTING

them wrong: the Nussbaumer sits by right among the great whites of the world. GRAPE ACCLIMATION AND TERROIR Gewürztraminer, as a mutation of the pink savagnin - called Roter Traminer in Germany - is a particular white grape variety since the berries have a pink or beige-pink colour. This cultivar, with early budding and ripening, loves the heat and above all the direct sunlight and therefore in the ripening phase it produces a lot of sugars, but it quickly loses acidity and therefore needs the most suitable sites. Soils that are too draining and therefore hot or microclimates that are too hot makes the wine immediately heavy on the nose and soft and almost oily on the palate. On the contrary, planted in cold and poorly draining soils, or in cold and not very sunny areas it produces wines that are lean on the palate but above all wines that are not very fragrant and not very aromatic, without the bouquet that is so characteristic of the grape. In fact, the vocation of Termeno and in particular of its hamlet Sella (or Söll in German) derives, in fact, from clayey calcareous soils (dolomies) rich in silt. Furthermore, Sella has an ideal position where during the day Ora, the wind blowing from Lake Garda, brings warmth, while at night the fresh air that descends from the Mendola and Monte Roen, located immediately close to the town, provide the correct thermal excursion that's so beneficial for the preservation of the wine's aromas. Furthermore, the altitude between 350 and 540 meters above sea level is ideal, both from a microclimatic and pedological standpoint. THE LABELS OF CANTINA TRAMIN Today, the winery bottles about 500,000 bottles of Gewürztraminer a year and 

rived, accompanied by a drop in temperatures. Fortunately, the vineyards, while slowing down a little, was unable to dissipate the large advance accumulated previously, also because the heat returned in July. An unusually cool month of August dis not prevent one of the earliest harvests in history from starting on September 1st. Around the 20th of the month, people rejoiced because all the grapes were in the cellar and the sugar levels were very high. The wine. Already on a quick visual examination, the golden colour betrays that we are in for a generous and warm vintage. The nose offers a riot of aromas with spicy (ginger and pepper) and fruity aromas (grapefruit and medlar) that lead to a baroque finish, where the notes of honey and pastry characterise the 2007 Nussbaumer. On the palate the richness of the vintage gives a clear tactile sensation of fattiness, almost creaminess, which fortunately finds in the slightly bitter vein of the grape a factor capable of balancing the long finish.

2006

The vintage. A long and very harsh winter strongly slowed down the vegetative restart: budding, which took place late, gave the start to a season that could never make up for its delay, also because it certainly could not be defined as a hot vintage. Flowering and fruit set occurred without major problems, thanks to a dry month of June, marked by temperatures in the seasonal average. August, for coolness and high humidity with frequent rains at the order of the day, certainly did not help to shorten the ripening times, luckily an ideal August helped to bring to harvest (started on 25th of September and ended on October 19th) of healthy grapes with a rather high sugar content. The wine. It is amazing to note how this gewürztraminer, who is now over 14 years old, manages to show off excellent vitality. Certainly the aromas have broad tertiary connotations ranging from undergrowth to spiciness, and dried fruit (walnut). However, there are still some beautiful floral notes to remove any doubt about the future condition of the wine. In the mouth it has a wide shoulder and shows great solidity, but in general it plays more on strength than on finesse and elegance, even if creamy sensations do return in the finish.

2005

The vintage. The period between the end of winter and the beginning of spring was quite humid with abundant rainfall which made the vegetative restart a little more lazy. The germination therefore took place slightly late. In the following months, throughout the spring and until the beginning of summer, the climate remained rather cool, leading the vine to maintain the initial delay in all phenological phases. 2005 can therefore be defined as a regular but somewhat lazy year. Only with the month of July did the weather get better and temperatures rose significantly. In August, the heat continued to lend fundamental help for ripening and scarce rainfall allowed the winemakers to face a healthy and rich harvest, although slightly delayed (20 September-6 October). The wine. Still rich in green reflections, one immediately perceives that this Nussbaumer 2005, still very young, will lead us to discover different facets of gewürztraminer. The nose, very fascinating in its peculiarity, is imbued with sensations reminiscent of an auslese Riesling from the Moselle, with the mineral character at centre stage (hydrocarbons and slightly smoky base). Only in the finish do the elegant hints of sage bring us back to the vine of origin. The mouth, delicate and harmonious, plays the game of freshness and persistence.

2004

The vintage. Unlike the previous, 2004 is a regular year where there was no room for excess. The rather cold climate but without 

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THE FORTUNES OF GEWÜRZTRAMINER, BETWEEN CHEFS AND YOUNG PEOPLE

STORIES

Interview with Wolfgang Klotz, commercial marketing director of the Tramin winery. Gewürztraminer is perhaps the most aromatic and particular variety in the world of wine. Today there is a real boom: is it a fad? Or can its success be considered stable? The market is asking for Traminer… But there are differences and fluctuations depending on the area. Fortunately, it is a rare wine that the market on the whole appreciates a lot. It is a category in itself that is now independent of fashion. It is unthinkable to see a wine list of a major restaurant without Gewürztraminer. What role does South Tyrol play on the world stage? South Tyrol is now known for the typicality of its Gewürztraminer: it is a dry wine, when compared to that of other international wine regions. We have managed to open a new chapter in its history. Is it possible to draw a map of this wine? Italians love Gewürztraminer, but abroad it is still seen as an opulent, sweet, fatally out of fashion wine. The Italian consumer, on the other hand, discovered this variety in the dry and driest interpretations made by South Tyrolean winemakers, and fell in love with it. Abroad it's still struggling: the Anglo-Saxon consumer thinks that all Gewürztraminer are as sweet as the Alsatian ones. How is the market for this wine in the East? Well, spicy cuisines rich in aromas are an ideal match for this wine: the growth potential is enormous. Unfortunately, however, when consumers in these countries think of a European or Italian wine they almost always think of a red. Fortunately, however, the younger generations are more open, more educated. We are still in niche wine category, but we're seeing encouraging signs. What figures are we talking about in terms of production? In South Tyrol there are about 4 million bottles made a year, but more than 3 are consumed in Italy. This is a difficult grape that needs particular terroirs. And fortunately so: you can only make an excellent Gewürztraminer… Making a lowlevel commercial one is not technically possible. And at the table? The great chefs create ad hoc dishes for this wine, but it is also having great success served by the glass in wine bars. It is a rich, satisfying wine, perfect at all hours of the day. Young people love it.

therefore about a quarter of the entire production (out of a company total that is close to two million pieces per year), declined in six different labels: the classic, the Selida and Nussbaumer which are dry, while Roen and Terminum are late harvests, with grapes dried on the plant and with important residual sugars. The Epokale deserves its own story, the latest addition to the house takes up the old peasant tradition of delaying the harvest of the gewürztraminer by about 7-10 days to make it a great sweet wine. Epokale 2009 was the first Italian white to win 100 out of 100 by its American colleagues. The other peculiarity of this label is that the bottles are left to mature for seven years in a mine at constant temperature and humidity. BIRTH AND EVOLUTION OF NUSSBAUMER Although the first vintage of Nussbaumer dates back to 1990, it was with the de-

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velopment of the line of selections and with the full operation of Willi Stürz, in 1999, that the idea of the Nussbaumer we know today was born and which won the Tre Bicchieri award for the first time, a long series that today totals 20. The first vintages, limited to 3-4 thousand bottles, were entirely produced by the Maso Nussbaumer vineyard and were therefore labeled as Nussbaumerhof. The success of the wine prompted Willi to experiment with the production of the surrounding vineyards which proved equally remarkable results and therefore have become part of the selection. As production has progressively grown, today the final number of bottles varies from 55,000 to 70,000 depending on the vintage. The grape is particularly fragile at the moment of flowering and therefore the clusters, usually small and not very dense, can be marked by problems of millerandage which can significantly reduce production. Today, Nuss-


NUSSBAUMER VERTICAL TASTING

peaks of any kind led to a slow year in development, marked by delays in all phenological phases, from budding to veraison, from flowering to fruit set. The persistence of lower temperatures, fortunately without major meteorological accidents, allowed the plant to slowly ripen its fruits. The rather long harvest lasted from 4th to 25th October. The grapes brought to the cellar were healthy, with good ripening parameters and without extremes. The wine. The dress is still young and the aromas, although less elegant than other vintages, make the vine perfectly legible through the unmistakable aromas of rose and apricot. The olfactory picture is good, but without the magic of the most successful vintages with less delicate spicy notes than usual. Structure and acidity are present on the palate, but the alcohol slightly burns the finish and makes it a little more austere than usual. The long still young finish leaves ample space to find the best balance.

2003

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baumer comes from more than twenty plots, all in the Sella di Termeno hamlet, and therefore from about twenty different vinifications that are kept separate and monitored, to evaluate their final use, before definitive assembly. To establish the ideal moment of collection in view of the final balance and the olfactory richness of the whole, Willi relies on laboratory tests but above all on his experience. THE ONSET OF BOTRYTIS ON THE BERRIES When between the rows botrytized berries appear (no more than 2-3% of the total: to avoid changing the olfactory picture of the wine) it's time to harvest, because at that moment the terpenes contained in the skins will be easily extractable and therefore able to characterise must and wine. Obviously the harvest lasts for at least 15-20 days, following the maturation times of the 

The vintage. The 2003 season was made unmistakable because of the great heatwave that hit Europe in several successive waves that did not spare even South Tyrol. However, the mitigating factor of the mountains and altitude allowed the vineyards and especially the gewürztraminer, which loves the heat and the sun, to achieve excellent results. Obviously, the great heat of June, then of July and finally of August meant an early vintage in all phenological phases from budding to ripening. The amazing fact to note is that the grapes managed to retain a good amount of aromas and a fair acidity, which is quite rare in such extreme harvests (between 11 and 30 September) in regards to climate. The wine. Even if the colour is less brilliant than usual, the wine remains young. Such a particular climate could not fail to leave traces from an organoleptic standpoint. The sign of 2003 is immediately perceptible on the nose which appears very different from all the other millesimes tasted. The varietal aromas, much more timid than usual, give way to a particular character for the grape that expresses iodized and marine aromas, with beautifully complex hints of caper leaves. The palate is distinguished by combining the usual richness with a nice savoury vein.

2002

The vintage. The climatic trend had many similarities with 2012. After a winter tail that delayed bud break, the weather became more forgiving, without ever falling into excess. A spring with normal temperatures for the period and with the right rainfall gave a move to the vegetation bringing it back in line with the seasonal averages: flowering and fruit set took place without incidents, ensuring a harvest with balanced productions. A good alternation of warm and sunny days and nights refreshed by the cold air coming down from the Alps made it possible to harvest healthy grapes with interesting parameters between September 23rd and October 9th, especially in regards to acidity. The wine. Going back to tasting Nussbaumer 2002 after 2003, one immediately understands how the climate of the vintage can characterise the wine even in its tertiary aromas. 2002 brings us back to classic and reassuring aromas with splendid notes of rose and fresh flowers in the foreground and also hints of honey and shortcrust that go hand in hand with the less frequent memories of basil. The very refined palate manages to combine richness and freshness with skill.

2001

The vintage. With the 2001 vintage we return to seasons with a variable climatic trend. Having started on a regular basis, the season included worry-free sprouting. The following months were characterised by variability in both temperatures and rainfall, however not particularly abundant. The problem was precisely the lack of insolation which partially slowed down the vegetative cycle and required work in the vineyards to avoid 


STORIES

serious cryptogamic issues. July and August did not bring significant improvements, with even a rather humid and not very sunny month of August. A particularly cool beginning of September further slowed down the ripening, pushing the harvest towards October. On October 3rd, at the end of a good season even if stingy as far as sun, the harvest of the grapes started (and which continued until the 22nd of the month). These were a little less sugary than usual, but with excellent acidity. The wine. The gold-coloured dress shows slightly less brilliant reflections than the younger vintages. The nose of excellent complexity appears less exuberant, offering with great measure its notes of honey and dried fruit combined with less classical aromas reminiscent of incense, smoky and undergrowth. The palate, while not presenting the richness of the hottest vintages, is appreciated for a balance that plays on the coexistence between the fattiness of glycerin and sugars on the one hand and on the fresh acidity and light bitter sensations on the other.

ALTO ADIGE GEWÜRZTRAMINER NUSSBAUMERHOF

2000

The vintage. 2000 is another stellar year for gewürztraminer. It belongs to the ranks of those harvests kissed by the sun and partly also by the heat, which the grapes of Termeno are in such need of. But to give the best the wine also needs to preserve a good freshness, so it loves summer and autumn temperature ranges. The 2000 vintage, with its seasonal course made up of hot and above all sunny but in no way ever suffocating summers and weeks, close to the harvest, caressed by the morning sun and cooled by the alpine breezes of the night, was perfect. The harvest, which lasted between the 18th of September and 6th of October, produced beautiful grapes, rich in acidity and with balanced sugars. The wine. The gold-coloured hues shine with a thousand fires, while the nose offers a harmonious and classy whole that enters on floral notes with rose petals in the forefront, then hints of fruit (apricot) make their way and finally the spicy memories with ginger in the first place. But the Nussbaumerhof 2000 finds its charm in the refined and intoxicating scents of saffron. The sip opens onto a tactile richness that gives a slightly dense sensation that, however, leaves room for salty memories, but also fresh and tantalizing on the tip of the tongue: a great timeless white, good young and at twenty.

1999

The vintage. On paper, 1999 should have been a sort of twin brother of 2000, since the meteorology of the two vintages had a partly parallel journey. In reality these were undoubtedly two beautiful harvests, but small differences contributed to the difference in style between the two: 1999 had more rain and less sunshine during August. Although the harvest dates are more or less overlapping - in 1999 the grape harvest began on September 22nd and ended on October 7th - the analytical data of the wines confirms that 1999 was a little less rich (0,5 less alcohol, less residual sugar and a little more fixed acidity) even if it still ranks among the great vintages of Nussbaumer. The wine. At the milestone of twenty years, the 1999 Nussbaumerhof is lucid and in good health. The wine has a golden nuance - obviously ... - but it maintains its beautiful aromatic character where spices, honey and orange marmalade meet the floral notes of rose and jasmine still present although a little withered. The hints of undergrowth, white truffle and porcini mushrooms add complexity. Even the mouth, decidedly fattier and less dynamic than in 2000, speaks of a great wine to drink today and for the next 2-3 years.

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different vineyards, based on the type of soil, exposure and altitude. Upon arrival in the cellar, 75% of the grapes are destemmed before pressing, while the balance, made up of very ripe grapes, is pressed whole and fermented with the stalks. However, among the numerous distinct vinifications, the oenologist has the opportunity to perform many tests, such as a pre-fermentation maceration a few hours long at room temperature. What, on the other hand, is part of the normal production protocol is to coldmacerate about 10% of the mass for 1012 hours before starting fermentation, in order to extract more precursors. To avoid problems of stunted fermentation, which can happen with such rich musts, we start with a fermentation around 1920°C to have a kinetic curve that rises quickly. In this phase and then also at the end of the alcoholic fermentation it's necessary to avoid malolactic acid and keep the little malic acid present to keep the finished wine's good freshness. ALL STEEL… BUT THERE WILL ALSO BE OAK To date, the entire production phase, including refining, has always taken place in steel or in any case in inert material containers. Although in the future Willi has in mind to try with used barrels of 30-40 hectoliters. Until the 2014 harvest, which was also the year of the presentation of the new packaging of the selections, part of the wine remained in contact with the lees until May, before being bottled and sold from July onwards. Since then, permanence on fine lees has been extended until July and the sale of the wine has been postponed to the end of the year. Probably, this philosophy, which tends to lead towards a production and commercial phase that respects even more nature's timetable, will be widely applied in the future.


BACK TO BASICS

Family tradition of making wine since 4 generations



GRILLO DI SICILIA. A PIRANDELLIAN GRAPE FOR A WINE WITH MANY IDENTITIES A recent grape variety for a wine with many personalities. Born initially to be a part of Marsala, then it fell into oblivion, then returned in great shape thanks to its freshness and aromas, for the sweetness of the fruit and its acidity. Today it is probably the most interesting of the Sicilian grape varieties, a union between Catarratto and moscato d’Alessandria. We went to visit its territories and to hear the stories of those who grow and vinify it

words by Alessio Turazza - infographics by Alessandro Naldi


STORIES

W

hat do Grillo and Vitangelo Moscarda, the protagonist of Luigi Pirandello's novel "One, Nobody and One Hundred Thousand", have in common? They are both Sicilians and both were born a few decades apart, the former in 1874 and the latter in the early 1900s, even if the publication date of the book dates back to 1926. However, belonging to the same land and historical era is not enough. What unites them is, instead, personality (actually, the multiple personalities), and an intimate essence. In his latest novel, Pirandello brings to completion a reflection on the struggle of the individual and the progressive disintegration of ego. Vitangelo Moscarda discovers the fragility of his identity, cancelled out by a kaleidoscope of “one hundred thousand” images reflected by an ever changing reality, until he becomes “nobody.” Well, even the Grillo grape was born with a well-defined identity. THE BIRTH OF A NEW GRAPE VARIETY Il Baron Antonio Mendola crosses Catarratto and Moscato d'Alessandria to create a grape suitable for producing a richer and more aromatic Marsala. The result? Excellent: Grillo soon demonstrated that it possessed a leading attitude in the field of fortified wines. But its identity gradually crumbled following the sad fate of Marsala, which after World War II was destroyed by the presence on the market of many low quality labels that made it unrecognisable and thus fall into oblivion. If the fate of Vitangelo Moscarda is irremediably sealed, all is not lost for the grillo grape. In the nineties, a great producer, Marco De Bartoli gave the vine new life, with the Grappoli del Grillo label. Outside the historical world of Marsala, Grillo wine

1

comes, if not in "one hundred thousand", however in many versions. However, this elusive and confusing multiplicity is part of a natural process of change and evolution. After all, it is a young variety, which is still going through a phase of research and experimentation. It is with this spirit of curiosity that we approached the grape investigation, to better understand its different souls and facets. The Grillo, which derives from those grapes, loves contrasts: it is a dynamic, versatile wine, constantly looking for an unstable balance. Its charm lies precisely in the unresolved expressive tension between its elements, between acidity and rich sweetness of the fruit. It is a flexible grape which lends itself to being shaped by the climate, the soils, the management of the vineyard and cellar practices. Perhaps it is precisely these characteristics, complex and somewhat elusive, that

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form the basis of its growing success, to the point of making it the most interesting white on the current Sicilian wine scene. TOURING PRODUCERS TO DISCOVER GRILLO In order to better understand the characteristics of the grape, we asked producers and oenologists to tell us about their experiences in the vineyard and in the cellar. Although grillo is grown almost all over the island, we have chosen to circumscribe the perimeter to the historic area of western Sicily. To better focus on the different interpretations and facets, we concentrated on some particular areas: the western coast of Sicily, where grillo grows near the sea; the salt pans, with vineyards in the lagoon habitat of the Riserva Naturale Orientata Isole dello Stagnone natural reserve; the hills


GRILLO DI SICILIA

inland and finally the area around Agrigento. We have chosen wineries linked by a deep relationship with the territory and which offer very different versions. SICILY’S WESTERN COAST Stretching out into the windy sea of the Egadi Islands like the white prow of a ship, Marsala has always been linked to the history of the grillo grape, born precisely to improve its famous wine. The rows, shaken by the brackish gusts of the sirocco or the mistral winds, rise from the blue of the sea towards the hinterland, sinking their roots in marine sands and arid soils rich in limestone. Let's start our journey to discover grillo with Sebastiano de Bartoli, owner of a historic cellar in Marsala, who played a fundamental role in the enhancement of the grape variety. In 1990, Marco de Bartoli, who already used pure grillo for Vecchio Samperi and for all Marsala wines, began producing a white table

wine. Thus was born the Grappoli del Grillo wine. But from which vineyards? «Our rows grow on calcareous-sandy soils, with alberello marsalese or Guyot systems, according to the principles of organic farming: low yields and exclusively manual work - explains Sebastiano, son of Marco, who died in 2011 - The harvests take place with rigorous selection of the best bunches, an indispensable prerequisite for making wine naturally and with only indigenous yeasts». All this, terroir and production philosophy, leads to a grape that gives the wine particular characteristics: «In this area, Grillo has a high acidity and typically mineral notes: two characteristics that are always present, together with good body and a quite high alcohol content. We have always produced territorial wines, in full respect of the grape and the place. As my father Marco always maintained, believing in the grape variety in unsuspecting times, grillo is the most suitable variety for the

THE GRAPE VARIETY, ACTUALLY VARIETIES: THE 2 BIOTYPES A AND B Grillo is a vigorous vine, with a good production but not always constant. It has a rather short production cycle, with a late bud break and a fairly early harvest period. The traditional training system is alberello with Marsalastyle pruning, but it also adapts very well to Guyot systems. It reaches maturity with a rich sugar component, always maintaining a good level of acidity. Two biotypes, A and B, have been identified, which differ from each other for different characteristics.

 2

BIOTYPE A It has a compact cluster, while the B has a more sparse cluster. The musts of biotype A have a lower concentration of sugars, a higher acidity, a higher percentage of malic acid and a lower pH. It yields fresh wines, of medium structure, with a moderate alcohol content, characterised by aromas of citrus, fragrant fruit, floral hints and vegetal notes BIOTYPE B The musts of biotype B are richer in sugars, with slightly lower acidity than their A counterpart. They have a low malic content and a higher pH. This biotype tends to give richer and fuller wines, with a higher alcohol content, aromas of ripe yellow fruit, tropical fruit and honeyed nuances.


STORIES

production of Marsala, but it is also very flexible and versatile. In addition to the historic Grappoli del Grillo label, in 2006 we started producing Integer Grillo, a macerated white with vinification and aging in wooden barrels (only 10%) and 330-liter terracotta amphorae; and in 2008 the Terza Via Classic Method. A search for new expressions of the grape, but always faithful to the territory.» Grappoli del Grillo 2018 is the historic label of the winery: it is a complex, savoury and elegant white, with aromas of fragrant fruit, tropical nuances, citrus peel, floral notes and aromatic herbs. The Integer Grillo 2018 is a wine with a rich and multifaceted aromatic spectrum, with ripe notes of yellow fruit, candied citron peel, medicinal herbs, spicy hints, iodized and flinty memories. BEYOND THE MAINSTREAM WHITES TREND Also in Marsala, in Contrada Bausa, 3 there is the cellar of Nino Barraco.  MINI GLOSSARY Alberello Ancient type of traditional vine training in small vineyards in conditions of limited water or nutritional availability, or of an unfavourable climate, characteristic of Mediterranean areas. In general it's characterised by a limited development of the plant and a limited load of buds. Bâtonnage The action of stirring the lees of the wine that tend to settle: it's done with a stick, hence the name (from the French).

Clone All plants deriving vegetatively from the same mother plant, and not mutated, together form a clone. Cryo maceration In the phase preceding fermentation the crushed grapes are left for about 12 hours at a temperature of 5°C so that the skins remain in contact with the must (juice). Cryo extraction Often assimilated to cryo maceration, it is performed by freezing the whole grapes (at –5°C) and then pressing them: this allows

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the extraction of a must that's richer in sugar. Fortified (wines) Also known as liqueur: they are obtained from basic wines (or musts) in which the addition of alcohol (fortification) blocks fermentation and stabilizes the product. Guyot Training system for specialized vineyards in which all the vegetation tends to be eliminated with the exception of a one year old branch (fruit head) and a small spur, or a portion of a small branch, bearing two

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2021

or three buds. It can also be "double" meaning it has two heads left to bear fruit.. Indigenous yeasts Also known as wild, these are fungi (microorganisms) naturally present on grapes and in the cellar. They can be autochthonous, that is part of essential components of a community typical of the territory, or allochthonous, that is randomly present in an environment. Macerated (wine) Obtained from white grapes vinified as if they were red, keeping the skins


GRILLO DI SICILIA

1. A bunch of grillo grapes (photo Consorzio Sicilia DOC) 2. The harvest between the rows of the Marco de Bartoli winery, where the vines coexist with palm trees 3. Nino Barraco walks among the rows to check the vegetative development of his vines

As a true wine craftsman, he has always attached great importance to the relationship with the land. His philosophy is inspired by oxidative style vinification, which made Marsala famous in the world. His wines are born from spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and are the result of a profound interaction between grape variety, place and tradition. Light years away from the thiol versions made in reduction, which wink at sauvignon blanc, Nino Barraco's wines shun fashions and mainstream tastes, but are capable of giving the thrill of savouring the authentic spirit of the distant past. «We have various vineyards, some younger and some older, with vines of both biotype A and B (see sidebar). The characteristics of the territory are varied and yield different grapes. For this reason I have chosen to create a label for each parcel. Vignammare is produced in the Petrosino area, on red soils rich in limestone; the vineyards of the Altograde are on the same type of soil, but in Mazara del Vallo; the Grillo

in contact with the must for a period ranging from a few hours to whole months.

must is left to ferment and is then added to the mass of must coming from the actual harvest.

Oxidative Oxidation is a chemical reaction that comes from the exposure of the liquid to air (oxygen), and characterizes the method for making some of the most important national and international expressions, such as Marsala, Vernaccia di Oristano, Malvasia di Bosa, Sherry and Vin Jaune.

Pre-British It is Grillo, from which Marsala comes, vinified as if it were Marsala, but without the addition of alcohol (which allowed the fermentation to be stopped for transport from Sicily to England). The wine is stored in large wooden barrels which are refilled every year.

Pied de cuve It is a native yeast fermentation starter: a part of the

Reduction (in) It allows to preserve the varietal aromas of the starting

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label was born on the sand dunes of Castelvetrano and the Altomare is the only wine made with a selection of grapes from all the vineyards.» The many identities of the same wine return, each one able to express an idea, a winemaking philosophy. «I believe all wines, including Grillo, should be the product of the history and culture of a territory - explains Barraco - Producing in Marsala means having the tradition of fortified and oxidative wines as a cultural reference. Marsala remains a model and a source of inspiration also for the production of table wines: I believe that roots are important for the identity of a territory and to illustrate its authentic face. For this reason I like to produce labels capable of maintaining a link with the past and creating vertical, savoury, austere versions of Grillo, but which retain a distant echo of the great Marsala.» The Grillo 2019 is a macerated version that expresses aromas of citrus peel, ripe yellow fruit, almond, iodized memories and a fresh and savoury trail. The Altomare is in small part vinified in 

vine. This technique is used for white and rosé vinification and allows you to completely eliminate oxygen during harvest and during winemaking. Technique recently used in France and Europe especially for aromatic grape varieties (such as Sauvugnon, Gewurztraminer, Colombart...). Sur lies Consists in keeping the wine in contact with the sediment of dead yeasts at the end of alcoholic fermentation (fine lees) for a period that can vary from a few months to a year. It can

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be used to have more body, protect wine from oxidation, soften tannins, increase aromatic persistence. Thiol Wine characterised by the presence of thiols, volatile molecules, which are aromatic precursors: that is, the aromas develop during fermentation and are almost imperceptible in the must. Sauvignon is particularly rich in thiols. There are several techniques to enhance these aromas (such as pepper, cassis...) or to limit them.


STORIES

whole bunches and aged in large barrels of 25 hectoliters. It is a Grillo that recalls bitter orange peel, bergamot, medlar, apricot, dried fruit and spices. The finish is marine and brackish, with pleasant tannic roughness. The Altogrado is instead a pre-British grillo: aged in chestnut barrels filled for the first two years and then left overflowing with the development of the flora. It seduces with aromas of walnut husk, toasted dried fruit, almond, chestnut honey and spices. RESEARCH AND EXPERIMENTS ON THE GRAPE VARIETY The Cantina Heritage of Francesco Intorcia represents a piece of history of Marsala wines. In addition to producing Grillo Vignemie, he offers other versions of grillo in purity: the Pre-British aged with a perpetual method, the Vigna di Maestranza, a macerated that refers to the tradition of daily wine of the Marsala peasants and the Marsala Superiore Riserva e Vergine. It is a winery that has invested heavily in research and experimentation on grillo and is familiar with all the expressive nuances of the grape. Francesco Intorcia tells us about his historical relationship with grillo: «We have been cultivating grillo for the production of Marsala since the early 20th century and in recent years we have expanded the vineyard to make wine also table wine labels. In the Contrada Casale estate we cultivate 3 hectares of biotype A and 6 of biotope B. The biotype A allows us to obtain less alcoholic and fresher wines, with sometimes thiolic scents, which resemble sauvignon. Clone B lends more alcoholic wines, with complex aromas, honeyed nuances and is more suitable for the production of Marsala.» But let's talk about Vignemie, which expresses the philosophy of Francesco Intorcia and realises his idea of Grillo: «The grapes come from biotype A grown in the

freshest and richest soils of the company. Contrada Casale is located in the hinterland, has a microclimate characterised by winds that blow from the north and good temperature ranges. The north-west exposure and the rich vegetation allow for balanced ripening even during the hottest summers. The good acidity allows us to obtain a fresh and moderately alcoholic wine explains Francesco - Grillo Vignemie wants to be a contemporary wine, capable of preserving the typical characteristics of the grape. We try to find a balance between olfactory elegance and gustatory power, offering a glass with pleasantly fruity aromas and a fresh and enveloping sip.» Vignemie 2019 expresses a fresh and savoury profile. Elegant and harmonious, it offers fragrant notes of citrus, aromatic herbs, white peach and melon. The Grillo Vigna di Maestranza 2019 is a macerated vinified and aged in wood, which expresses dense and complex

aromas that are warm and harmonious with ripe fruit, soft spices and dried fruit. ALONG THE COAST LEADING TO MAZARA We leave Marsala behind riding down along the coast to Mazara del Vallo. Annamaria and Clara Sala manage the Gorghi Tondi estate under organic farming, within the WWF-protected natural oasis of Lake Preola and Gorghi Tondi. The vineyards descend towards the sea immersed in wild nature, among Mediterranean scrub, marshy areas and Saracen olive trees. Tonino Guzzo, the winery's oenologist, welcomes us and tells us about "his" grillo. «Gorghi Tondi has a long tradition in the cultivation of grillo and can count on an area of about 35 hectares, divided into several plots that differ in age and genetic characteristics of the grapes. Over the years, we have tried to select and multiply the plants that produced the best grapes. A sort of 'company selec-

THEL SOMMELIER: "A WINE ON THE RISE" Il Grillo is a wine on the rise. In recent years, the attention of producers has been growing and also the number of labels available on the market. It's a grape variety that in the best expressions finds space in gourmet and high-level catering. It is certainly one of the most important and well-known Sicilian whites: apart from the wines of Etna, which are enjoying particular fame in this period, Grillo has now reached the popularity of historic vines such as Inzolia and Catarratto. Consequently, the presence of Grillo in restaurant menus has also increased. In our restaurant we usually offer seven or eight Grillo labels and we always find a greater demand from customers and satisfaction in pairings with the recipes of chef Ciccio Sultano. In general, our guests love the intense bouquet of this wine, the floral and fruity aromas, the harmonious and balanced sip, the immediate pleasure of drinking and the flavour, which goes very well with seafood cuisine. – Antonio Currò, head sommelier at Ristorante Duomo in Ragusa

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THREE HUNDRED YEARS OF GRILLO

1700 – Marsala perpetuum aka pre-British. It’s the oldest version of Marsala: aged in oak barrels, every time wine is drawn these are refilled, hence the term perpetual wine.

1832 –The Florio winery is born. The success of British Marsala on the international market favours a florid trade and the birth of numerous Sicilian wineries: among others Rallo (1860), Martines (1866), Curatolo Arini (1875), Pellegrino (1880), Pipitone Spanò (1880), Lombardo Brothers (1881).

1990 – Marco de Bartoli creates the first table wine using grillo grapes in purity: I Grappoli del Grillo. The grape goes beyond the world of Marsala.

1995 – IGT Sicilia is born 1773 – The brig of the English merchant John Woodhouse is forced to make a makeshift stopover in Marsala. When Woodhouse tastes Marsala perpetuum he notices the similarities with the great wines of Port, Jerez and Madeira. He loads some barrels, adding aquavit to the wine to ensure its conservation. Marsala British is born.

1700

1969 – The Marsala DOC is born

1874 – Baron Antonio Mendola creates the grillo vine by mixing catarratto and moscato d’Alessandria.

1800

1900

tion' of the grapes that best suit the local soil and climatic characteristics. Grillo is a grape of surprising ductility. Once the physiology of this variety is well known, it's possible to obtain a constant yield with grapes that maintain interesting levels of acidity and pH even in advanced ripening stages. In suitable soils, and not exaggerating the yields, it expresses all its aromatic potential and a thiol component.» And how can you enhance these characteristics starting from the vineyard? «Here we harvest in August: we try to preserve the fragrance of the grapes, in order to have greater acidity and keep the primary aromas intact. Grillo is a variety rich in aromatic precursors on the skins, therefore we make short cold macerations before completing the pressing phase. We use both selected and indigenous yeasts, with the aim of preserving the characteristics of the variety and the link with the territory, but above all we work by  4

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2011 – DOC Sicilia is born (replaces IGT) with the aim of promoting and valuing varieties historically present on the island

2000


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STORIES

4. Annamaria and Clara Sala of Gorghi Tondi, the organic farm inside the WWF natural oasis (photo by Benedetto Tarantino) 5. Sarah and Andrea Vesco of Cantina Rallo 6. The island of Mozia which is "portrayed" with its rows of grillo grapes on the sea also in the opening photo (photos by Benedetto Tarantino) 5

avoiding excessive contact with air to prevent oxidation: a sort of controlled reduction. Ours is a modern interpretation of the grape, which highlights acidity, aromatic freshness and flavour.» Grillo Kheiré 2019 is intense, salty and aromatic; it offers notes of orange blossom, citrus peel, medicinal herbs, white fruit and light tropical nuances, well balanced by the freshness of the finish. Grillo Giletto 2019 (without added sulphites) is a simpler and more essential wine, with a direct and genuine fruit purity and a marine finish. Grillodoro 2016 also deserves a mention: a late harvest, harmonious and persuasive, made from grapes attacked by botrytis cinerea. One of the rare "muffato" dessert wines of our Peninsula. THE GRILLO OF THE SALT PANS White mountains of salt glistening in the sun, blinding the cracks of a gaze flooded with light. The slow blades of the

mills caress the glazed blue of a clear and dense sky. An expanse of shimmering pink pools gets lost on the blue horizon of the sea, while the distant profile of the Egadi islands is scattered by the breath of the wind. The scenery of the Riserva Naturale Orientata Isole dello Stagnone Nature Reserve offers a landscape of naked and sunlit beauty, and offers the warmest sunsets in all of Sicily. The Reserve is a large lagoon bordered by the Isola Grande island with three small islets inside it: San Pantaleo-Mozia, Santa Maria and Schola. In this small fringe of land the grape has lived since the time of the first Phoenician colonisation and still today it designs the landscape. Cantine Rallo cultivates about ten hectares in the Piane Liquide locality and Tasca d'Almerita manages a vineyard of a dozen hectares on the Whitaker di Mozia estate. The climate of the area has good temperature variations, thanks to the always cool nights, which favour the rip-

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JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2021

ening of grapes rich in aromas. The soils derive from ancient sea beds and are characterised by loose soils, consisting of sand and limestone. In this extreme strip of Sicily grillo has found a habitat to express itself with a unique and particular character. THE STAGNONE GRAPES Andrea Vesco welcomes us to Cantina Rallo and immediately tells us about the organic approach in the vineyards. «They are about 20 years old and cultivated in the alberello marsalese system. Here we have chosen to plant clone A of the grillo, typical of the Stagnone area: it is a versatile grape, with a structure rich in polyphenols and terpenic substances. In the past it was used above all to obtain structured and long-lived wines such as Marsala, but it also adapts very well to the creation of elegant and easy to drink wines. We work in reduction, in the absence of oxygen and with nitrogen for the entire process, in 


GRILLO DI SICILIA

order to enhance the aromatic profile of the grapes. We use selected and certified organic yeasts. The Bianco Maggiore is aged for a few months in steel, while the LaCuba ferments in acacia vats and is aged for six months in 10-hectolitre barrels - explains Andrea - The Stagnone wine has fragrant fruity and floral aromas, soft but savoury, fresh and at the same time enveloping, and expresses brackish and mineral notes. The main characteristics of our wine are flavour, acidity and minerality, typical of the soil and proximity to the sea. The terroir confers a particular aromatic complexity, with citrus notes, typical hints of Mediterranean scrub such as myrtle, mastic, rosemary, wild mint and, at times, also pleasant floral notes.» If the Bianco Maggiore 2019 is a sunny, full and mature wine, with notes of yellow fruit, tropical nuances and an aromatically rich and salty sip, the LaCuba 2017 has a refined and savoury profile,

reminiscent of Mediterranean scrub, officinal and balsamic herbs, citrus aromas and white fruit. A DIP IN HISTORY, ON THE ISLAND OF MOZIA Mozia represents a place of memory, a sort of archaeological museum of the vine. The first Phoenician navigators landed on the island between the second half of the second millennium BCE and the first millennium BC. Since then the vine has always lived in this soil. In 2007, the Whitaker Foundation entrusted the Tasca d’Almerita family with the implementation of a project to restore the historic grillo vineyards, to revive the ''Wine of the Phoenicians.'' On the island there were alberello vineyards over seventy years old, which unfortunately were destroyed by wild rabbits in 2012. Fortunately, a 20-year-old vineyard, created with mass selections of old vines, was saved. Alberto Tasca tells us about

Grillo di Mozia: «The vines grow on a low alberello system with Marsala-style pruning, with two long shoots intertwined above the stem: it is a shape that adapts very well to drought and windy climates. The grillo has great aromatic heritage, which is expressed differently according to the cultivation areas: in the warmer areas such as Mozia terpenic aromas of the zibibbo prevail, in the cooler and hilly territories notes of the catarratto prevail. We do a first harvest slightly early and a second when fully ripe, to give a greater aromatic complexity while maintaining good acidity. The vinification takes place with selected neutral yeasts and the wine is aged in steel vats sur lies for about 6 months.» And what is the identity, the personality of the Grillo di Tasca? «Grillo is a very malleable variety, which can express wines with different characteristics depending on maturation and territory. We - Alberto explains - try to support the natural characteristics of the grapes of  6

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STORIES

LE THE 11 BEST TABLES 1 Le Boccerie Agrigento – via Atenea, 231 0922627662 – leboccerie.it Alessandro Ravanà is the creator of the agile formula consisting of a bistro-pizzeria with a local shop. The menu pleases a very wide spectrum of customers. for those in a hurry, bread and panelle, burgers, arancini and focaccia. from the

ASSUD Mozia

Tenuta dei Principi di Spadafora

Ciacco Putia Gourmet

Palermo

Le Lumie Nino Barraco

Heritage

Cefalù Alcamo

Rallo

Parco delle Madonie

kitchen come delicious dishes rich in flavour made according to seasonality and inspiration.

2 Osteria ex Panificio Agrigento – piazzetta G. Sinatra, 16 0922595399 – osteriaexpanificio.it Well-decorated characteristic interiors and outdoor tables for summer. Above all, a

Poggioreale

Marsala

Mazara del Vallo Salvatore Tamburello

Menfi

cuisine that focuses on territory and tradition.

The proposal ranges between sea and land

Marco de Bartoli

not without touches of inspiration and reinterpretations of the typical recipe book. desserts are delicious and well prepared.

The Cellar

on equal level.

Gorghi Tondi

3

Terrazza degli Dei dell’Hotel Villa Athena Agrigento – via Passeggiata Archeologica, 33 0922596288 – hotelvillaathena.it Within the archaeological park of the Valley of the Temples, the terrace is a must for its stellar view of the temple of concord, and slightly to the left, the temple of juno. Palm

Marilena Barbera

Agrigento Il Vigneto La Foresteria Planeta Estate

10 km

and olive trees complete an unrivaled panorama.

From the kitchen, Nino Ferreri, a young island chef, combines technique and intimate sicilian character.

4 La Madia Licata (AG) – c.so Filippo Re Capriata, 22 0922771443 – ristorantelamadia.it A must for every gourmet passing through sicily and for years among the most beloved tables in italy. But the shy and humble character of Piino Cuttaia has not changed. Warm attention to each customer. A stop here is therefore a journey into the flavours and childhood of the chef to discover all that he has settled in his memory (by his own admission that's his secret ingredient).

5 L’Oste e il Sacrestano Licata (AG) – via Sant’Andrea, 19 0922774736 – losteeilsacrestano.it Located near the marina is the restaurant of peppe bonsignore, proudly self-taught restaurateur who works together with his wife

Chiara Sabella, manning the dining room with grace and professional approach. The cuisine, which focuses on local ingredients, always surprises with its intensity, technique and balance. The wine list is built with great passion.

this area, without oenological interventions that could alter their natural balance. The wine should express the climatic and territorial variability of the continent of Sicily, where viticulture develops from small islands, to the warmest coastal strips, from inland hilly areas to cooler mountain areas. Different wines, which can represent each territory in an authentic way: from the most structured, with aromatic, floral and typically Mediterranean notes, to the freshest, with citrus and herbaceous aromas.» The Grillo Mozia 2019 by Tasca d'Almerita has an unmistakable profile, with delicate aromas of orange blossom, lime zest, citrus, hints of tropical fruit, balsamic and aromatic herbs. The taste is fresh, crossed by a thin brackish vein. THE GRAPE THAT GROWS INLAND We leave the coast to enter the deep heart of western Sicily. From the coast of

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Marsala we go up towards the Belìce valley, to discover a territory of gentle hills, rugged elevations and fertile valleys. A splendid landscape coloured by green rows, golden wheat, red patches of sul and restless silver olive foliage. Once the horizon of the sea is lost, grillo measures itself against wild nature and the rocky profile of the mountains. The memory of the sweet Mediterranean atmospheres dissolves in a cooler and more continental climate. The harmonious and sunny face of the coastal grillo gives way to a fresh expressive tension, with a more austere and vertical profile. FRESH CLIMATE, AWAY FROM THE SEA The Alessandro di Camporeale winery is a family business that has been in viticulture since the early 1900s. We talk about the characteristics of 


GRILLO DI SICILIA

Milazzo

Alessandro di Camporeale

6 Osteria del Mare dell’Oasi Beach Licata (AG) – via Sergente Profumo 0922803494 – oasibeachlicata.it The multifaceted restaurant of the morello family includes a pizzeria, a bar and a beach with loungers and umbrellas. In the large dining

Messina

room guests can enjoy an informal and relaxing atmosphere, and in summer it's also possible to

Parco dei Nebrodi

eat on the splendid deck on the beach.

Fish-based

dishes are the main proposal, simple and well done.

Taormina Tasca d’Almerita

7 ASSUD Mozia Marsala (TP) – c.da Spagnola, 228 3701225622 – assud.eu It all started about fifteen years ago in the porta nuova restaurant in marsala. Then the project expanded into Assud Mozia, to saline, and Assud Cibo di Strada (contacts are on their website), which are different variations of the same idea:

Parco dell’Etna Acireale Enna

Osteria ex Panificio Le Boccerie

traditional cuisine updated to modern times with prime quality ingredients.

Terrazza degli Dei dell’Hotel Villa Athena

8 Ciacco Putia Gourmet Marsala (TP) – via S. Cammareri Scurti, 3 0923711160 – ciaccoputia.it

Baglio del Cristo di Campobello

evocative location for this small restaurant with

L’Oste e il Sacrestano

Piazza del Purgatorio and a view of the Only a few dishes on the menu, with some unwavering solids and different proposals of the day (listed vocally at the table) that draw on tradition, revisiting it with a pinch of flair and a lot of respect. tables on

splendid baroque-style setting.

La Madia

Ristoranti

Osteria del Mare dell’Oasi Beach

Cantine

7

9 Le Lumie Marsala (TP) – c.da Fontanelle, 178b 0923995197 – ristorantelelumie.it the russo family still manages the business with refined accents, in an elegant building, adorned with mediterranean flowers and plants, in one of the hills of marsala, from which it's possible to enjoy an extraordinary sunset over the egadi islands.

Young Emanuele Russo, in the kitchen,

fine-tunes local and sea dishes, enhancing excellent products.

10 La Foresteria Planeta Estate Menfi (AG) – c.da Passo di Gurra strada provinciale 79, km 91 (ex s.s. 115) 09251955460 – planetaestate.it beautiful resort owned by the Planeta family, surrounded by vineyards, and located in a panoramic position on the hills. The work of chef Angelo Pumilia is excellent, based on two main proposals, for lunch the "homestyle" dishes, which can be light or traditional sicilian; and for dinner a more creative offer. 11 Il Vigneto Menfi (AG) – c.da Gurra di Mare 092571732 – ristoranteilvigneto.com Between sea and countryside, the resort owned by the Bursi Family pampers customers with comfortable rooms and a typical table of local cuisine, which is expressed in delicious dishes.

The

wine list is interesting, focusing on wineries of the area.

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THE FIGURES OF GRILLO IN SICILY

2012

2013

2014

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

10.119

7.674

6.599

6.243

PR OD UC TIO NZ ON ES

5.083

28.149

+178,2%

Fonte SIAN

+349,6%

115

+1676%

HECTARES PLANTED IN VINES

130

QUANTITIES PACKAGED/DOC SICILIA GRILLO hl/ x1000

2017

39.390

-18,6%

kg/ x1000

35.395

AMOUNTS OF GRAPES PRODUCED/DOC SICILIA GRILLO

the Camporeale grillo with Benedetto Alessandro, oenologist of the winery, who tells us about the choices made in the vineyard. «Our rows of grillo grapes were planted in 2009 and today they represent a real company Cru. We opted for biotype A, more similar to sauvignon blanc, because we believe it can best express the freshness of the Camporeale territory. The vineyard is trained on the Guyot system, with a rather long fruit head, to limit vigor and have a balanced grape/leaf ratio, limiting the problems of millerandage». In this area, far from the sea and in the hills, the temperature changes are very noticeable; the soil is clayey, of alluvial origin, with the presence of calcareous skeleton. Characteristics of which harvesting and vinification must take into account. «Our harvest takes place slightly earlier: we try to contain the alcohol content, emphasize acidity and maximize thiol aromas

12,43

14

15,3

18

26

1.658

1.859

2.050

2.363

3.401

15.294

that would otherwise be lost in the last phase of maturation. We do not carry out cryo maceration because we do not want to extract oxidizable polyphenols which would, over time, cause oxidation problems and which would make the wine more tannic and harder on the palate. Furthermore, too much potassium would be extracted from the skins which would cause a part of tartaric acid to be lost. We use selected yeasts to guarantee aromatic cleanliness and carry out the vinification in reduction, from the destemming of the grapes to bottling. The wine ages in steel on coarse lees without any racking and with only weekly bâtonnage.» All this to be able to produce a wine that expresses what the producer wants from that grape: «Enhance the delicate citrus aroma and at the same time exalt the intense minerality that the territory of Camporeale expresses. In our idea, Grillo should have great thiol-like aromat-

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17.315

0,700 0,75/ x1000

Fonte AGEA

+10,6%

7.310 8.086

93

2019

Fonte IRVO

ics, freshness on the palate, verticality, without therefore being excessively mature and structured.» The Vigna Mandranova 2019 (the only Grillo with Due Bicchieri Rossi recognition in Vini d'Italia 2021 Gambero Rosso guide) translates the words of Benedetto into the glass: it is a fragrant, taut and very fresh white, with fragrances of orange blossom and jasmine, citrus and white pulpy fruit, which anticipate a long and savoury finish. POOR YIELDS AND GOOD AGING INCLINATION The Tenuta dei Principi di Spadafora is located in Contrada Virzì, not far from Camporeale. The vines are grown under organic farming at an altitude between 220 and 400 meters above sea level, on sandy soils with little clay. The climate is cool, with temperature variations range


GRILLO DI SICILIA

between 10-15°C from day to night. Here, Francesco Spadafora tells us about a different reality that gives life to other different personalities of the same vine. «Grillo is a versatile vine: despite its richness in sugars and its 13.50 alcohol degrees, in this area it always manages to retain high acidity, up to 6.50 g/l, with pH 3.20. For all wines we prepare a Pied de Cuve with the same grapes and, once fermentation has started, we add it to the must. The vinification takes place in the traditional way with a long aging sur lies, even as long as a year, in order to give the wines intensity and structure. Our Grillo, from grapes with low yields (about 45 quintals per hectare), is intended to be a direct, decisive and fresh wine, with a vibrant sip and capable of aging well.» The two labels of the winery offer very different interpretations. Principe G Bio ages 12 months on the lees in concrete tanks and 12 months in the bottle. It has a very fresh profile, dominated by 8 citrus notes, hints of white fruit and 

THE CHEF: A WINE FOR EVERYONE, EXCELLENT WITH OILY AND RAW FISH We

asked chef emanuele russo of le lumie restaurant in marsala for an opinion on grillo from a gastronomic point of view

and some pairing suggestions.

5 dishes for 5 Grillo… Different dishes, to combine with Grillo with different personalities and facets: first of all with raw fish, perhaps with a soft note of lemon peel. Then, with a grouper and almond couscous: sweetness and minerality. Again: with the very traditional charcoal grilled anchovies with oregano and marinated garlic. Then, I would drink it with a plate of fresh spaghetti with sea crab and tomato: more iodine, freshness and flavour. And finally, again a raw pairing, with bluefin tuna tartare, the king of the sea.

Il Grillo is winning an increasing number of fans. Does this also happen at restaurants? Yes, it is one of the most requested wines at the moment. It satisfies both the most demanding palates and wins over those who are unfamiliar with it. What are the characteristics that make it so popular? Certainly its versatility and the wide range of different interpretations. Grillo offers different expressions according to the production area. It has great flexibility and allows discovering various nuances of the Trapani area, ranging from Mozia to Salemi to Petrosino and Mazara. The characteristics of great longevity also allow it to offer macerated, pre-British or Altogrado wines.

GAMBERO ROSSO

How about a pairing for a pre-British grillo like the Altogrado? I like to pair it with raw fish, especially with shellfish and tuna products: tuna roe, ficazza, lattume, heart and bresaola made with cured tuna.

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STORIES

aromatic herbs. The Siriki Bianco Bio 2015 comes from a long maceration on the skins, matures a year on the lees and 6 months in the bottle. It offers a rich and broad aromatic spectrum, with aromas of apricot, ripe yellow fruit, candied citrus peel and tropical fruit, which accompany the sip towards a very persistent finish. ARTISANAL APPROACH AND BOND WITH TERRITORY About ten kilometers further south, Salvatore Tamburello tends an estate in the hills of the Contrada Dagala della Donna di Poggioreale. Heir to an ancient family of winemakers, since 2010 he's been managing the vineyards under organic farming and since 2014 has started bottling on his own. Salvatore Tamburello's wines have the typical artisan face, characteristic of a small quality production, intimately linked to the territory. «Our vineyard was planted with espalier, with a density of 4,000 plants per hectare, with both biotypes A and B, more or less at 50%, to have a more complex

and harmonious wine - explains Salvatore - Our terroir is made of very varied soils, with limestone, silt and clay. The microclimate is basically Mediterranean, with summer temperatures that often exceed 32°C and peaks of 40°C. We usually harvest around the second half of August. The grapes undergo cryo maceration for 6 hours and then sent to fermentation, with indigenous yeasts. The vinification takes place in reduction, with subsequent aging sur lies in steel tanks.» And Tamburello also has "its" ideal Grillo, which is then found in the glass: «Fresh, and balanced, it must enhance all the typical scents and aromas of the grape without being too aromatic. Above all, it must be sincere, capable of expressing its own character, enhancing the typicality and the territory of origin.» His Grillo 204 2019 is halfway between the most Mediterranean interpretations of the coast, the freshest of the Camporeale area: it's a harmonious wine, with sunny aromas of yellow fruit, tropical fruit and a finish with hints of almond and citrusy fragrances.

9

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GRILLO FROM AGRIGENTO From the Valle del Belìce we descend towards the sea, up to the coast overlooking Africa. We are in the heart of the Agrigento area, a land of ancient archaeological remains and a millenary tradition in the field of viticulture. A territory where grillo arrived in the early 1900s and which has experienced an important spread especially over the last twenty years. The Marilena Barbera estate is located near Menfi, a stone's throw from the sea, in a natural setting of sunlit beauty. The sand dunes reveal the blue of the Mediterranean rippled by the African wind, which blows lightly and iodized. The light, violent and clear, caresses a countryside of vineyards and olive groves that blend on the horizon. BIODIVERSITY AND NATURALITY Marilena Barbera cultivates her vines in organic farming, with the utmost respect for nature and environmental biodiversity. Her wines are pure and genuine, the result of a light oenology, based on simple vinification that respects the characteristics of the grapes. A production philosophy that enhances the personality of the vine and its link with the land. «The Vigne del Pozzo parcel, characterised by alluvial soils with a good clay component, offers fertile soils rich in nutrients, which give optimal conditions for the ripening of the grapes - says Marilena Barbera of her vineyards and of the territory of Menfi - My grillo comes from old local vineyards over 50 years old and has been planted with grafted scions on wild. From the observation of the vines, most seem to belong to biotype A. As with all the other varieties, I harvest the grillo when fully mature. Fermentation takes place spontaneously with wild yeasts and a maceration on the skins for about a week. The malolactic fermentation is spontaneous and the aging is done sur lies for a minimum


GRILLO DI SICILIA

period of 6/8 months. Then, no clarification or filtration, just static decantation. This grape - explains Marilena - is suitable for many types of vinification because it is very versatile. However, I believe that giving up its rich, aromatic and crunchy skin impoverishes the wine and makes it less Mediterranean and more similar in its aromatic set to international varieties such as sauvignon, chenin or semillon. Furthermore, I have no particular predilection for vinification in reduction, I also don't find them interesting in the case of semi-aromatic or aromatic grapes. I prefer to let grillo grapes express sunshine, fullness and salinity, all characteristics that belong to the territory of Menfi, at least in the sub-areas closest to the sea. I never set myself any other oenological goal than to try to help grapes become the wine that already exists within them. I am only interested in bringing to life a wine that belongs to that vineyard, that land and that particular natural ecosystem.» Its Coste Al Vento 2019, from its golden colour, announces a solar maturity that is found in the aromas of yellow fruit, aromatic herbs of Mediterranean scrub, iodized and balsamic hints. The sip is ample and savoury, satisfying, the finish is harmonious. ANCIENT AND RECENT HISTORY Continuing along the Agrigento coast towards the east we arrive at Baglio del Cristo di Campobello. The Bonetta family has been cultivating these lands for several generations, but only about ten years ago they decided to make wine and bottle their own. The vines are grown on gentle hills a few kilometers from the sea, characterised by the presence of white chalky soils. The story is entrusted to Carmelo Bonetta: «The average age of our vines is 20 years and the grillo grafts come from 80-year old vines. The clones are of two types: one with a slightly more sparse bunch which gives the wines a greater aroma, the other

10

with a tighter bunch which lends greater structure. Here in Campobello the soils are mainly chalky, hilly, with an altitude between 230 and 300 meters, but only a few kilometers from the coast. The area is characterised by strong temperature variations and the presence of sea breezes - explains Carmelo who also tells us the birth (and name) of his Grillo Lalùci - We harvest at full maturity and at the first light of dawn. Cold maceration follows for 12 hours and fermentation with selected yeasts. Aging takes place in steel with rest on the fine lees for four months. All processing is done in reduction, to preserve the typical aroma of the grape. We want wines with a strong personality, which are an unequivocal expression of our territory: glasses that can be drunk young, but which if kept well can be appreciated even after 10 years. Freshness and minerality are typical characteristics of our Grillo.» Lalùci 2019 confirms: intense and fragrant, with notes of citron peel, grapefruit, lime, peach, kiwi and tropical fruit. The sip is taut and vertical, with a chalky and saline finish. 

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7. Benedetto Alessandro of the Alessandro di Camporeale winery 8. Francesco ajd Enrica Spadafora of Tenuta dei Principi di Spadafora 9. Salvatore Tamburello, in in the vineyard with the whole family 10. Angelo Bonetta of Baglio del Cristo di Campobello


RECIPES

MATTIA BARONI BORN IN

AGE

RESIDENT IN

Riva del Garda (TN)

33

Bolzano/Bozen

NAME OF THE RESTAURANT

La-FuGa dell’Hotel Bad Schörgau RESTAURANT CONTACTS

Sarentino/Sarntal (BZ) strada statale 508, km 18 0471623040 la-fuga.org

OWNER PARTNER EMPLOYEE

FORMERLY WORKED AT

  

Haselburg a Bolzano, Sissi a Merano (BZ), Alpes a Sarentino (BZ), Villa d’Este a Cernobbio (CO)

SEATS

6

SOUS CHEF

MOST LOVED INGREDIENT

THE HASHTAGS OF MY CUISINE

Riccardo Nizzero

I don't have one that I prefer over others

AGE OF SOUS CHEF

27 KITCHEN BRIGADE

Denny Lodi Rizzini Gabriele Lacquaniti Ermanno Zerini DINING ROOM STAFF

Gregor Wenter Gregor Unterweger Jonas Heiss SOMMELIER

LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT

Identity-driven, healthy, sustainable: all three in the broadest sense of the term

Those that are not in season

ONE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS

THE DISH OF A LIFETIME

All, as long as natural

There are many WORSHIPPED MAESTRO

I respect many great chefs, both Italian and not, but often my masters are not necessarily in the gastronomy world

Daniel Verdorfer HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF…

Photographer LATEST ALBUM DOWNLOADED

DISHES PRESENTED

None, I prefer reading

Spaghetti al burro e lievito (Rethinking Resources) Invidia del mare (Envy of the Sea) La pecora zoppa (The Cripple Sheep) Winter Fell

LATEST BOOK READ

Transdisciplinarity: Theory and Practice by Basarab Nicolescu

by Paolo Cuccia – photos by Manuela Vanni

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MATTIA BARONI - LA-FUGA DELL’HOTEL BAD SCHÖRGAU

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RECIPES

Spaghetto al burro e lievito (Rethinking Resources) Ingredients for 4 240 g spaghetti 200 g butter 50 g whey garum (aged 14 months) 20 g modified corn starch Pure pumpkin vinegar (unfiltered) Pure leek vinegar (unfiltered)

Put the butter, garum and modified corn starch in the Thermomix and blend at maximum speed, heating the sauce beyond 80°C. In this way the butter emulsifies and stabilizes thanks to the starches. For the powders, filter the vinegars individually, dry what remains in the tamina at 30°C then pulverize it in the Thermomix. Boil the pasta in unsalted water, drain and meld within the sauce, bringing everything to a boil quickly.

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MATTIA BARONI - LA-FUGA DELL’HOTEL BAD SCHÖRGAU

Invidia del mare (Envy of the Sea) Ingredients for 4 1 giant lake trout fillet weighing approximately 700-800 g 5 egg yolks 2 thumbs of Jerusalem artichoke 1 garlic clove Corn kernel oil trout garum (aged 12 months) char garum (aged 12 months) char garum (aged 8 months)

Cut the Jerusalem artichoke into small cubes and season with 0.75% salt, vacuum pack and let it ferment for two weeks at 20°C. Fillet the trout and hang it in the ventilated refrigerated room to dehydrate under a fan for about 8 weeks. After this time, dip it in double its weight char garum and leave it vacuum-packed in the refrigerator for at least three weeks. Drain it and blend it with a little of its liquid, the garlic clove and corn oil until you get the consistency of a creamed cod.

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RECIPES

La Pecora Zoppa (The Cripple Sheep) Ingredients for a crowd 1 whole butchered sheep, possibly old and tired 1 jar of red fruit preserves sheep garum (aged at least 10 months)

Clean the sheep and let it dry in the cold room under a fan for at least 3 months. After this time, rehydrate it in its own garum for at least 1 month. Condition the meat in sous-vide and cook for 30 hours at 68°C. Take the meats and shred them on a plate, press and let them cool, obtaining a slab that can be cut into cubes. Brown the cubes and then put them in the hot oven for 2 more minutes. Collect the cooking liquids and their respective fats and blend them to obtain a mayonnaise. Serve with the sauce and the red fruit preserves.

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MATTIA BARONI - LA-FUGA DELL’HOTEL BAD SCHÖRGAU

Winter Fell Ingredients for 4 200 g black garlic 200 g water 50 g Alpine butter 50 g porcini Shoyu (sauce) (aged 14 months) 15 g methyl gel 1 cardoncello mushroom oysters

Blacken the black garlic for 6/7 weeks at 65°C with water and methyl gel. After this time, bring everything above 80°C and then cool. Spread the mixture in a very thin layer on a leaf-shaped mould and bake in a hot oven for a few minutes until the leaf comes off the mould. Rehydrate with porcini Shoyu; season the Alpine butter with the same sauce, then whip it. Brown a fairly thick slice of the mushroom, then compose the dish by also adding an oyster.

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