ALL THE BEST OF 2020
CUISINE OBSESSION
KITCHENWARE OBSESSION
KOJI & MOULDS
PANS
If last year we awarded the green egg - a type of BBQ-oven of Asian derivation - this year we have to go back to classic (so to speak) pans. There are many shapes, sizes, materials and prices, but they have one thing in common: they are increasingly important in kitchens where the return to fires and flames is winning hearts of cooks and chefs alike.
The secret ingredient in Japanese cuisine, koji, is a stringy fungus, also known as Aspergillus oryzae. It is used to initiate a fermentation process that creates what we appreciate as "umami" flavours. We wrote about it in the January issue of Gambero Rosso, illustrating how this oAsian technique began to conquer most western cuisines, starting with RenĂŠ Redzepi's at Noma in Copenhagen, and at Mugaritz in Spain and in Italy with research by Terry Giacomello of Inkiostro in Parma. And again Giuliano Baldessari at Aqua Crua in Barbarano Vicentino and Mattia Baroni at Bad SchĂśrgau in Sarentino.
GELATO OBSESSION GOURMET PACKAGED GELATO
The latest born is Perfecto, the result of study and work of Gelsana, a company established thanks to Dr. Flavio Di Gregorio, of Master Gelato chef Stefano Ferrara (recipient of Tre Coni Gambero Rosso with his Rome shop Pinguino Gelateria Naturale) and entrepreneur Daniele Frasca. It's an artisanal and packaged gelato, therefore intended for the retail channel. But one cannot fail to mention Grom or the mythical ice cream bar of the Pepino ice cream shop. In short, the equivalence between packaged gelato and industrial gelato is disappearing: soon even packaged gelato will be an excellent artisan product.
MIXOLOGY OBSESSION NO WASTE
Is there a good bartender, young or mature, who by now does not focus everything on reducing waste? The answer is no: this trend has now involved everyone. Rightly so, may we add.
MISSED OPPORTUNITY QUALITY COFFEE
This is the only item where we repeat the exact same concept of the last one: things have changed little to nothing and apparently Italians have a great deal of trouble understanding that the world of coffee deserves more attention and in-depth analysis, exactly as it happens in the world of wine, or cheese, or beer, or cured meats. Not only is there no curiosity and desire to understand better, but Italians seem convinced that what they drink every day at home or at the corner coffee bar is the best coffee in the world. Will they understand in 2021 that this is not quite the case?
GAMBERO ROSSO
45
DECEMBER 2020