Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.130

year 22 - number 130 - june 2019 - gamberorosso.it

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Upgrade for Italian Whites NORTH AMERICA TOUR The closure of this season of the Gambero Rosso Worldtour is entrusted to the first destination of Italian wine. The desire for Made in Italy drives away the shadows on tariff duties

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Focus on Washington. There's so much Italian rhythm in the town’s dining scene. From Neapolitan style pizzerias to luxury fine dining options, The offer is increasing year by year

LUIGI TAGLIENTI One of the most original highranking Italian chefs, who loves to re-design the characteristics of what's already established: unknown flavours at the same time reminiscent of the past

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year 22 - number 130 - june 2019 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

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Editorial News Wine of the Month Top Italian Restaurants in Washington From Ontario To QuĂŠbec along the Italian wine route Across the Usa. A market to preside Verdicchio Boys. How new generations rethink winemaking of Castelli diJesi Luigi Taglienti. Tradition and avant-garde

Upgrade for Italian Whites NORTH AMERICA TOUR The closure of this season of the Gambero Rosso Worldtour is entrusted to the first destination of Italian wine. The desire for Made in Italy drives away the shadows on tariff duties

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Focus on Washington. There's so much Italian rhythm in the town’s dining scene. From Neapolitan style pizzerias to luxury fine dining options, The offer is increasing year by year

LUIGI TAGLIENTI One of the most original highranking Italian chefs, who loves to re-design the characteristics of what's already established: unknown flavours at the same time reminiscent of the past

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Italian whites, all in What do I store in my cellar? More and more Italian white wines. Let me explain and tell you why with a very recent example. Last week I was tasting for the Vini d’Italia 2020 guide, in front of me were six glasses of Pecorino from Abruzzo. Blind tastings. Medium quality? Excited, I take notes, punctuate, return to the glass to find confirmation, three of the six samples are of great level on a national scale. We uncover the bottles and do a price check: they range between 5 and 12 euro. How can these prices be justified, though? The causes are many: the producers don’t believe in it enough; the foreign market, which dictates prices, is historically very oriented towards national reds; also, price doesn’t often take into consideration the value of longevity of the bottles, especially since the same producers rarely put aside more than a few dozen bottles as benchmark to follow their evolution. Ah, what a pity! Funny, because the basic white labels often grow older more gracefully than reds. The above is true for many wines made from Carricante to Fiano or Verdicchio that we have decided to explore in this summer issue. There is no doubt: in Italy whites offer the best value for money, the best buying opportunity, you drink very well with a small expense because in the average perception many wines are still considered blue chips, everyday wines, which are not allowed to sit at the big table. It’s still not cool to drink a Pecorino. This is also a problem linked to national criticism even before the international one, if an Italian white is elegant and sinuous, references are immediately made to Chablis, perhaps a small Chablis, when in reality there’s a sumptuous classic Soave in the glass. When an Italian white holds up well over time––that is, very often––references to German Rieslings immediately come up. In short, a Verdicchio can only be a fresh and crisp wine, a Pecorino is a table wine, and so on. Blind tastings fortunately undermine this pattern, at the same time the new generations of producers are introducing a new sensibility, with increasingly focused native grape varieties, zero oak aging, single vineyards to give character, often enthralling salinity. Every year in the Guide we write that the increase in quality of whites has been the underlying theme, well the prices are not yet aligned with this increase in the glass. But it won’t be long. The change starts from abroad: the export of Italian white wines is worth almost 1.3 billion euro, in the last 5 years Italian whites have grown by 26% compared to 16% of reds, as indicated by Nomisma. We’re going towards increasingly fresh and light flavours, vegetarian or vegan cuisines, and seasons will always be warmer. Meanwhile, I’m back in the cellar loading up on big Italian white wines, from the Valle d’Aosta to Etna.

— Lorenzo Ruggeri

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NEWS

ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF PASTA ALLA GENOVESE

by Luca Cesari NEAPOLITAN MACARONI A few decades before, “Maccaroni alla Napolitana” – described for the first time by Francesco Leonardi in his “Modern Apicius” volume published in 1790 – had already come to the fore in the gastronomic literature of the time and later taken up by several other authors.

The recipe can be considered the ancestor of all the Neapolitan ragù sauces, and prescribes to dress the pasta “with grated parmigiano, crushed pepper, and veal or beef sauce, or a good stew broth, or carnation”.This pasta dish could then be seasoned in two ways: with a meat sauce (of veal or beef), or with the sauce of a beef stew (simple or flavoured with cloves) to which tomato could also be added.

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IN ADDITION TO RAGÙ ALLA NAPOLETANA, NAPLES IS ALSO FAMOUS FOR PASTA ALLA GENOVESE. WE RESERARCHED THE ORIGINS OF THIS RECIPE.

tion the famed Ippolito Cavalcanti who, in his 1837 recipe book, reports several “alla genovese” dishes, of which none unfortunately resemble condiments for pasta.

The first condiment, based on meat sauce, therefore united both the “Neapolitan” and the “Genoese” method so much that several publications brought them together in the same recipe. For example, the “New agricultural encyclopedia” of 1859 for the Neapolitan Macaroni includes the same seasoning “that

LASAGNA ALLA GENOVESE PASTA ALLA GENOVESE The pasta alla genovese that we all know is based on a tomato-less meat sauce, onions and a few other ingredients that are slow-cooked until the ragout becomes a creamy and fragrant sauce that is served on pasta with a good sprinkling of grated cheese. It essentially differs from the Neapolitan-style ragù for the type of meat used – which in this recipe is strictly beef – and for the absence of tomato.

THE PASTA ALLA GENOVESE LEGEND The most imaginative hypotheses have been made to justify the name of this dish, starting from the Genoese citizens present in the taverns of the Naples port during the 15th century Aragonese domination, by way of a genius unidentified Neapolitan gastronome nicknamed “o’ Genovese”. Stories also men-

The last mention, however, is the one that comes closest to reality. During the 19th century one of the “styles” or in any case, the geographical indication that characterized a numbe rof recipes, was precisely the “alla genoese” style. Along with this, the most famous were also “alla lombarda”, “alla bolognese” and of course “alla napoletana”, but other places such as Milan, Rome, Venice and Sicily were also mentioned.

Among specialties associated to the Ligurian capital, just before the mid-19th century, mentioned in Italian cookbooks are the first “Genoese lasagna” destined for a big success for the next half century. As it often happened at the time, there were two versions: “lean”, seasoned with a garlic, basil and pecorino pesto sauce; and a “fat” version, in which the pasta sheets were garnished with meat sauce and parmigiano.

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is practiced for Genovese lasagna” or with “meat sauce and Pamigiano cheese”, or even the “Simple and affordable bourgeois cuisine” of 1863 contains a recipe with the unmistakable title: “Macaroni or lasagna from Genoa or Naples of the bourgeoisie”.

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SMALL PARENTHESIS: WHAT IS THE MEAT SAUCE But what exactly is this meat sauce these authors are talking about? It’s a base widely used as a seasoning starting from the mid-18th century which remains in use until the early 20th century. It’s described by many authors and usually involves a substantial browning of pieces of beef or veal with lard, ham and vegetables – Leonardi means carrots, parsnips and onions – which are cooked with beef broth. The resulting liquid is highly aromatic with a marked meaty flavour that was used to enrich different foods, create sauces, or, in our case, as a condiment for pasta. Today this meat sauce has practically disappeared from home kitchens, traces of it remain in some fine dining preparations as “brown fond” which, despite the different procedures, uses the same principle.

1. Pasta alla genovese 2. Pasta con il pesto 3. Pasta al ragu napoletano

GENOVESE AND NAPOLETANA. TWO NAMES FOR THREE CONDIMENTS

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NEAPOLITAN AND GENOESE RAGOUT

In summary, in the Italian food scene of the mid-19th century, there were two ways of dressing pasta: “alla genovese” and “alla napoletana” which included the same recipe based on meat sauce and, in some ways, became indistinguishable.

The fact is that with the same names two other specialties were also indicated: the Genovese indicated the meatless basil puree, today better known as “Pesto alla genovese;” while the Neapolitan was the name given to the stewed sauce that would later become the famous “Ragù alla Napoletana”. All this had to generate more than a few misunderstandings, in particular for the two “Neapolitan” versions that shared many ingredients and a similar preparation, but which were slowly separating due to the increasingly frequent presence of tomato in the stew sauce.

Over the course of the 20th century the two ragouts continued to evolve into individual forms: on the one hand with the constant use of tomatoes and the inclusion of some cuts of pork in the Neapolitan sauce, while the Genoese saw an increasingly marked presence of onions.

Even if today two independent preparations appear, these two specialties derive from the same genealogical branch of Neapolitan origin that suffered a split in the first half of the 19th century.

During the first decades of the 19th century the differences between the two preparations became almost constant, forcing somehow to distinguish them and the choice of the name for the white meat sauce naturally fell on the alter ego, that is la Genovese.

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The subsequent spread of other condiments for pasta, some of which had worldwide success (such as Bolognese sauce) and the almost total abandonment of the meat sauce in the kitchen, marked the disappearance of the genoese sauce in the rest of the boot and its persistence only in the Neapolitan city that had given birth to it. In the rest of Italy the genovese variant “di magro” survived, however, which included condiments based on basil, garlic and pecorino. Even today the name of the Ligurian city is inextricably linked to pesto, which remains one of the most famous and replicated recipes in the world..

NEWS

TUSCAN EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: THE BEST MILLS

by Michela Becchi FLORENCE AND THE CHIANTI HILLS, SIENA AND ITS PICTURESQUE COUNTRYSIDE AND UNMISTAKABLE COLOURS, GROSSETO AND THE WONDERS OF THE MAREMMA REGION: TO EACH LANDSCAPE, ITS OWN OLIVE CULTURE. TUSCANY AND OLIVE OIL. First place in our guide Oli d’Italia 2019 (for the first time in bilingual version), with as many as 33 oils awarded with Tre Foglie, the highest award for extra virgin olive oils. Tuscany is a region that knows how to assert itself even in the most difficult years: we saw it last year, the result of a critical vintage, and confirmed this year, after an even more difficult year, characterized by adverse weather conditions, extreme weather events, frosts and heavy rainfall that diminiesh production by half in different areas, Puglia and Lazio in the first place

TUSCAN OLIVE OIL AND A COMPLEX VINTAGE Many difficulties, especially for the frantoio variety which, unlike moraiolo (which is resistant to frost), suffered substantial damage. In the Florence area revealed the best fruits, healthy and with very little fly damage, and equally in Valdichiana. The most critical consequences, on the other hand, were in the Lucca province, where the frost – after the mild temperatures that had already made the plants grow, then followed by a dry summer – created various problems.

FATTORIA RAMERINO, FROST AND QUALITY OILS Let’s take a look at the best olive groves and farms, those that earned the special prize. Fattoria Ramerino in Bagno a Ripoli, for example, with its frantoio monocultivar was awarded

Frantoio Franci

best medium fruity. The company has been led since 2000 by Filippo Alampi, who took over the plants that survived the great frost of 1985, converting the regimen to organic farming and investing immediately in quality.

BEST MEDIUM FRUITY A total of 5500 trees, mostly from Tuscan cultivars, which give life to elegant olive oils with a complex aromatic profile. The winner, the Monocultivar Frantoio, is an extra virgin olive oil that stands out for its strong notes of artichoke, aromatic herbs, cypress, nuances of dried fruit and a nice balsamic sensation. A green and persistent fruity olive oil, that’s balanced in spiciness and bitterness.

GIACOMO GRASSI, THE ART OF MONOCULTIVAR Giacomo Grassi, with the Monocultivar Olivo Bianco, won the prize for best mono-varietal olive oil. Located in the heart of Chianti Classico owning 4,000 plants spread over 6 hectares of land, to which are added trees purchased in the neighbouring territory. The farm

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is specialized in monocultivars, and is committed to bringing value to the different local varieties.

The best monocultivar olive oil Olivo Bianco is an intense green fruity, that’s quite bitter and with a good spicy component (slightly more tenuous than its bitterness bitter), which opens on the nose with sensations of tomato, arugula and aromatic herbs, which together with a lash of green apple create an intriguing and enveloping aromatic tissue. The note of pepper and the pleasant balsamic taste are also confirmed on the palate.

RETO DI MONTISONI, A FAMILY AFFAIR Again in Bagno a Ripoli is Reto di Montisoni, a fatm located at the foot of the 17th century monastery by the same name. The direction is entrusted to Andrea Fiani, who continues the family tradition begun by his grandfather, a sharecropper who later bought the farm, and then taken over by his son.

Eight hectares in total, of which six are olive groves, for a total of 1,800 plants.

NEWS

THE BEST IGP OIL The recognition in this case is for the best IGP olive oil, with organic Toscano IGP, a medium fuity oil with a rather vegetal character, characterized by notes of arugula, almond and wild chicory. A beautiful extra virgin all played on elegant and persistent notes of bitterness, with a more delicate and subtle spiciness.

for the best farm of the year. Frantoio Franci is a company that doesn’t need much of an introduction, churning large numbers and always a reference point for local producers. In the heart of the Val d’Orcia, Giorgio lovingly cares for his 15,000 plants on 65 hectares of land, buying additional olives to produce 1500 quintals of olive oil (half of which were obtained from his own olives).

OLIVE GROWER OF THE YEAR: FÈLSINA

FRANCI OILS

The olive grower of the year award goes to Fèlsina, a charming estate in the Chianti Classico area that has been involved in the production of quality extra virgin olive oil for over 15 years. With exceptional results, thanks to the work of Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Giovanni Poggiali, who manage the ownership of one thousand hectares, of which 116 are olive groves. The 11,000 plants (leccino, moraiolo, raggiola, pendolino) are curated by the agronomist Alessandro Chellini.

Three oils of great character and intensity: Villa Magra Gran Cru Monocultivar Correggiolo, with its nuances of artichoke and arugula, grass and almond, embellished with a strong note of pepper, all played on balsamic notes. And then Villa Magra: almond, pepper and elegant balsamic sensations are the nose of this extra virgin with medium and persistent fruitiness. Lastly, Monocultivar Moraiolo, balanced and once again faceted in its herbaceous hints of artichoke and arugula.

THE FÈLSINA OLIVE OILS

RESTAURANTS OF OLIVE OIL

Excellent performance for all three oils presented by the farm: the Monocultivar Leccino Denocciolato Bio is a wideranging extra virgin olive oil, which stands out for its herbaceous and vegetal notes – arugula and mowed grass in the first place – to which fowllow refined balsamic nuances and a marked sensation of pepper. Equally, the Monocultivar Pendolino Denocciolato Bio is rather balsamic: a medium fruity flavor played on artichoke, arugula and cardoon, together with hints of apple and almond. Finally, the Monocultivar Raggiolo Denocciolato Bio, a very well balanced olive oil, is balsamic and vegetal, herbaceous and persistent.

We couldn’t avoid listing places to eat well, and that lend careful attention to the selection of olive oils. Take Olivia in Florence in Piazza Pitti for example, which is an olive oil shop with a kitchen, opened in 2016 by the olive oil brand Gonnelli. Or Osteria Vecchio Mulino in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, in the province of Lucca: an old-time trattoria where you can taste authentic Tuscan cuisine, and where every dish is prepared with high-grade oils.

FARM OF THE YEAR: FRANTOIO FRANCI Giorgio Franci is one of the most famous producers in the Italian olive oil scene, and this year he won the prize

OLIVE OIL SHOPS Again in Florence, to buy good olive oil, head to La Bottega dell’Olio in Piazza del Limbo, a specialized shop with a good selection of oils, but also vinegars, niche specialties and kitchen utensils. Equally, Baroni at Mercato Centrale, which combines prime olive oils, spices, homemade pasta, preserves and other high-quality products.

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In Livorno, on the other hand, there is the Oil Bar Caffè at the Mercato Centrale, an original format that combines tasting (and purchasing) olive oil with the classic bar offer (which here is even richer with their delicious bruschetta).

THE FARMS Fattoria Ramerino – Bagno a Ripoli (FI) – via Roma, 404 loc. La Fonte www.fattoriaramerino.it Giacomo Grassi – Greve in Chianti (FI) – via Dudda, 33 – www.giacomograssi.com Reto di Montisoni – Bagno a Ripoli (FI) – via Montisoni, 23 – www.retodimontisoni.it Fèlsina – Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI) – via del Chianti, 101 – www.felsina.it Frantoio Franci – Montenero (GR) – via Achille Grandi, 5 frantoiofranci.it WHERE TO EAT Olivia – Florence – Piazza Pitti, 14 r – oliviafirenze.com Osteria Vecchio Mulino – Castelnuovo di Garfagnana (LU) – via Vittorio Emanuele, 12 – vecchiomulino.info

WHERE TO BUY Baroni – via Galluzzo – baronialimentari.it La Bottega dell’Olio – piazza del Limbo, 4r – labottegadelloliofirenze.it Oil Bar Caffè Del Mercato – via Buontalenti, Mercato Centrale box 404 – facebook. com/alessandrocamicioilbar/

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NEWS

CALIFORNIA: IN NAPA VALLEY, WINE TOURISM IS A DRIVING FORCE IN THE ECONOMY

Tourist in Napa Valley are mainly attracted by the wine-related experience, especially the tasting in wineries. Here is how wine tourism is leading Californian economy. Wine tourism is the main asset of one of the most famous wine-growing areas in the world: Napa Valley. The fundamentals of this area were illustrated during the National travel tourism week (Nttw), seven full days dedicated to tourism, founded in 1983 by President R. Reagan and scheduled until Saturday 11 May throughout the country.

WINE TOURISM IN NAPA VALLEY In the US, tourism today is worth 2,500 billion euro, with 16 million employees in 2018. And in the Napa region, where over 80% of national wine production is concentrated, wine (first sector for employees) is what’s driving tourism and the economy.

WINE TOURISM IN 2018 Suffice it to say that in 2018 there were 3.8 million visitors to this area (20% of which foreign) with an average daily expenditure of almost 500 dollars, considering an average family of four, mainly spent in restaurant meals (118 dollars ) and wine purchases in the cellar (85 dollars).

WINE EXPERIENCES FOR TOURISTS In particular, tourists present in Napa Valley are mainly attracted by the wine-related experience: in the survey, entrusted to the Destination Analysts research company, tasting wine in wineries is indicated by 80% of visitors, followed by meals in restaurants (65.2%), followed by vineyard tours (45.3%), shopping (39.8%) and the famous and popular Napa Valley wine train (27.6%).

WINERIES AND TASTINGS Each tourist, in 2018, visited an average of 3.7 wineries (compared to 3.1 recorded in 2016) participating in an average of 1.4 tastings. As many as 97.2% of respondents said they had made at least one winery visit and 73.8% had joined a wine tasting.

Four out of ten wine tourists book their visits in advance, a percentage that rises to 50% for those staying overnight in the area. Compared to total attendance, over 35% of visitors in 2018 have slept at least one night in local accommodation facilities.

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NEW

ITAL IAN/ EN EDIT GLISH

ION

A guide to the best extra virgin olive oil www.gamberorosso.it

NEWS

An essential book for all who love Italian wine

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA: IMPEDING FALSE WINES IN ITALY, CHILE AND PORTUGAL

More than 70 experts spent months doing blind tastings in every region of Italy

EDITIONS Italian

Italian

English

The protection activity on foreign markets in regards to the Apulian wine by the consortium continues. Here are the latest news about Primitivo di Manduria. he protection activity on foreign markets in regards to Primitivo di Manduria DOP by the consortium chaired by Mauro Di Maggio hasn’t stopped. The latest results say that deceptive brands have been blocked in Italy, Chile and Portugal and that the opposition to some labels in Germany, France and South Africa is also being negotiated.

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA “Precisely because this wine is so loved abroad,” explains Di Maggio, “Primitivo di Manduria is the product on which imitation phenomena must be most concentrated. This is a situation to which we have responded by expanding our vigilance and protection also in view of the wine’s production growth“.

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA ABROAD The balance of three years of activity is very encouraging. In the legal battles faced by the Consortium 6 cases were won in Italy, one in Spain and one in Portugal; plus one in Chile and one in China. From the international market, four brands with the European Union wording have been eliminated.

THE APULIAN PDO

Chinese

Japanese

2530 PRODUCERS 22100 WINES 447 TRE BICCHIERI 102 TRE BICCHIERI VERDI

www.gamberorosso.it

The Apulian PDO, which has a turnover of 120 million euro, 70% of which derives from export, in recording in 2018 a significant production growth of 15%, at 20 million bottles. The defense strategy is developing two-fold: internationally, by blocking all deceptive brands that directly recall or imitate the name; and on the other hand, the samples on sale are being taken and analyzed in the large-scale distribution circuit in the laboratory to verify inconsistencies with the specification.

For this reason, the agreement with the supervisory agents for 2019-21 has been renewed, increasing inspections by 30%, which will also include stores, retail and the Internet.

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NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH

FIANO VIGNA DELLA CONGREGAZIONE 2016 VILLA DIAMANTE via Toppole, 16 Montefredane (AV) FB Az.vinicola Villa Diamante Retail price: 25 euros Campania, Avellino, Montefredane. The Montefredane hill treats us to some of the most original, intense and unpredictable whites in Italian winemaking. Fiano is the main grape here and its cultivated on two Fiano di Avellino crus. One is Vigna della Congregazione, which calls up hints of wild grass and exhibits a tangy character.

The other is Clos d’Haut, from the upper Montefredane area, which produces smoky wines with a touch of peat. For many wine enthusiasts, this is the stuff of dreams. Antoine Gaeta’s extraordinary work is carried on today by his wife, Diamante Renna, aided by seasoned winemaker Vincenzo Mercurio. The Vigna della Congregazione, a partially northfacing fiano vineyard selection grown at elevations of over 400 metres at Toppole di Montefredane, is irresistibly charming, with steep slopes, and deep stony, clay soils.

Back in the cellar, the wines are neither clarified nor filtered, and spend a long time in steel before being released. The 2016 Fiano di Avellino Vigna La Congregazione is a white with a pure light and marvelous clean, fresh hints that are enticing (to say the least). Notes of meadow herbs, orange peel and ginger anticipate a palate with an overwhelming tangy sprint. It offers up a delicate smoky tone and proves more measured than other versions. It's a seemingly endless and elegant wine. The finish is precise, lively and complex. Pure beauty. It will age with grace but I’m note sure we’re going to be able to wait much more. This is a World Class Italian white.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CANTINA ZENI 1870

Go: the first olfactory gallery of wine Aromi e musica housed in a barrel cellar It’s the most ancient sense, the most mysterious and, for this very reason, it’s also the most studied one. We are talking about the sense of smell, an extraordinary sense that makes us see things with our eyes closed, makes us listen in silence, and one which escapes rationality. In a world measured with pixels, it’s nice to rediscover the power of olfactory molecules. This is what Elena Zeni thought when she started designing “go”, the Olfactory Gallery of Cantina Zeni 1870. This is the first example in Italy: a place that offers a new educational experience, an exciting game, a unique oeno-sensorial tasting experience. Created in the spaces of the estate’s Bottaia, i.e. the barrel room, a place of refinement of the great wines, “go” is a veritable gallery where visitors can come in contact with the aromatic

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The wines The oeno-sensory experience of “go” also includes the tasting of two wines analyzed, combined with cheese samples. The two wines are changed every year or so, to allow even the most affectionate visitors to be able to repeat the gallery visit and try out more aromas. In July the two new wines will be presented: Bardolino Chiaretto Classico In Anfora and Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigne Alte, two excellent labels, symbols of historically representative territories of Cantina Zeni 1870.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CANTINA ZENI 1870

1. A visitor engaged in one of the 14 olfactory boxes that contain the aromas 2. Detail of the olfactory box: the interaction with visitors is through a nebulizer like those used in perfumery 3. The barrel room of the Zeni 1870 cellar: a small lounge dedicated to wine

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-C Lo go + o ld ra -A 0 87 i1

The Olfactory Gallery is open from April to October, every day, including Sundays and holidays, from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm.

Reservation not mandatory but welcome by writing to bottaia@zeni.it - zeni.it (VISITS section) Zeni 1870 - Bardolino (VR) - via Costabella, 9 - +390457210022 - zeni.it

olo re

An immersive experience designed

by Elena Zeni, leading visitors through a sensorial discovery of the aromas present in the different wines of the cellar

Zen

components of the wines of the cellar, isolated and enclosed in red cubes, true olfactory paintings. Approaching each installation, the visitor must let himself be guided by his own nose, putting his olfactory memory to the test. The Gallery was born from the idea of Elena Zeni and the meeting of different professionals who have combined their senses and their sensibilities in the realization of the project. Elena Zeni has strongly willed this experiential space, where wine tasting goes beyond the technical boundary, heading straight to the heart and mind, leaving emotions alive. The conception and realization was entrusted to architect Simone Spiritelli, in team with colleague Carlo Fantelli, author of several projects for the Cantina F.lli Zeni 1870. The nose of Paola Bottai, creator of fragrances, analyzed the olfactory universe of wines of the cellar to create fourteen essences that mark the sensory journey. And finally Nina Danon composed the piece of music that accompanies the viewer in the olfactory discovery. A song whose timbres and frequencies stimulate olfactory concentration. A deeply immersive experience, which stimulates all the senses. This led Zeni 1870 to win the Best of Wine Tourism 2018 award, established by the Verona Chamber of Commerce, in the categories “Local winner - innovative wine tourism experience” and “Best of Global Winner”.

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN WASHINGTON

CAFE MILANO 3251 Prospect St.,NW Washington - +1 2023336183 www.cafemilano.com Average Price: $ 70 Cafe Milano is one of the city’s leading Italian restaurants: elegant, refined and clientele that hardly skimps on known and well-known faces. A menu that manages to satisfy many who pop in at different times of day and contribute to changing the atmosphere: young and glamorous late in the evening, politicians and businessmen for business lunches, and so on. Often crowded and noisy but the service runs smoothly around dishes that pay homage to Milanese and southern Italian tradition, without overlooking American tastes. The menu includes a classic vitello tonnatogrilled fresh calamari with zucchini and peperoni cruschi, the house-made Tortelli Missoni with pecorino, guanciale and egg or a cotoletta alla milanese. And plenty of pizzas. We want to underline the very good wine list and service, that’s why Cafe Milano is our 2019 Contadi Castaldi Best Wine List in Washington. Seat at the counter and carefully choose a wine by the glass among more than 30 options.

Tequila & Scotch friendly.

LUPO VERDE

STELLINA

1401 T St NW - Washington

399 Morse St NE - Washington

+1 2028274752 - www.lupoverdedc.com

+1 2028513995

Average Price: $ 35

www.stellinapizzeria.com

Lots of news at Lupo Verde. First of all

Average Price: $ 20

the opening of Lupo Verde Osteria in the

What a brilliant new opening. Anto-

Palisades and the debut of Lupo Marino

nio Matarazzo and chef Matteo Venini

at the Wharf, then the departure of chef

opened Stellina few months ago. The

Mattia Venini which opened with Antonio

concept features a very solid Neapoli-

Matarazzo the brilliant Stellina pizzeria last

tan style pizzeria wich also combines a

April. The flagship Lupo Verde restaurant

smart wine selection and a good range

keeps serving traditional food based on

of house-made pastas. Start with some

good ingredients from Italy, together with

fragrant fried antipasti like cuoppo misto

an impressive variety of pasta in-house.

or Roman Artichokes. Then, we sug-

Fusilli ‘con il ferretto’, made with a knitting

gest the Schiacciata pie with mortadella

needle, is topped with meat sauce that

and Bronte pistacchio or the savory

simmers over low heat for at least eight

Napoli, topped with tomato, anchovies

hours. The Cheese Room is pretty remark-

and Mediterranean herbs. Expect soft

able, ranging from the classic to the rare.

and airy pizzas, with an high hydration

All the selections can be paired with hon-

dough and a typical melting texture.

eys and chutneys from around Italy. Pork

More than 20 Italian wines are available

chops, marinated in apple vinegar for four

by the glass. We will keep an eye on this

days and then grilled, are crunchy outside

pizzeria which is already among the very

and wonderfully tender inside. The pork is

top, top ones in town…

slow-raised for Lupo Verde by Pig Crafters of Goochland in nearby Virginia. Lupo Verde’s wine list represents all Italian regions. The Tiramisu is damnly good. After the chef changed, we noticed some up & down but we’re still confident.

GAMBERO ROSSO

14

JUNE 2019

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

There is so much Italian rhythm in Washington’s dining scene. The offer is increasing year by year, from Neapolitan style pizzerias to luxury fine dining options. In many cases, flavors are adapted to the American palate, here’s our selection.

And yes, we have a favorite wine bar in town: Cork!

FIOLA

AL TIRAMISÙ

OSTERIA ASSAGGI RISTORANTE DI MARE

601 Pennsylvania Avenue

2014 P Street - Washington

Northwest - Washington

+1 2024674466

+1 2026282888

www.altiramisu.com

6641 Old Dominion Dr, McLean Washington - +1 7039180080

www.fioladc.com

Average Price: $ 50

www.assaggiosteria.com

Average Price: $ 120

Tiramisu is one of those restaurants where

Average Price: € 40

Like a gold-seeker in the middle of the

the personality of the chef stands out

Domenico Cornacchia has been in the

19th century, Fabio Trabocchi, from Osi-

above everything else. There would be no

United States for 25 years. He opened

mo in the Ancona province of the Marche,

Tiramisu without the volcanic, romantic

his Osteria in 2009, a fresh, modern res-

sought his El Dorado. After studying with

verve of Luigi Diotiaiuti, who landed in

taurant with an outdoor terrace, a few

Gualtiero Marchesi, he bounced between

Washington twenty-five years ago. Luigi

blocks from CIA headquarters. The place

London and New York before finding

was born on a farm in the countryside of

is a favorite with politicians, lobbyists and

gold in Washington D.C. In homage to his

Lagonegro, a true ambassador for the Lu-

diplomats from around the world. Service

home territory, he named his restaurant

cania zone. The restaurant, located near

is careful and professional, entrusted to

Fiola, which, in Marchigiano dialect means

Dupont Circle, 300 meters from the World

well-trained young Italians. Dinner at an

‘daughter’. With extreme elegance, summa

Monetary Fund and the World Bank, of-

Assaggi table leaves a pleasant memory,

cum laude service, and a record-breaking

fers top quality cucina, using ingredients

such pan-fried calamari (cooked briefly

wine list, Fabio Trabocchi serves a an au-

imported directly from Italy. Contact with

over high heat) take on a bittersweet

thentic and innovatice cucina. We suggest

producers is important for Luigi. He re-

note that lobster mushrooms (typical

the grilled octopus with confit artichokes

turns to Italy every year to accompany Lu-

of Canada and New England) render

and blood orange, the mezzi rigatoni with

canian shepherds in their biannual trans-

particularly pleasant. Excellent zucchini

rabbit, guanciale and morels, and the rich

humance. Tiramisu is a temple to pasta,

blossoms are stuffed with crisp sardines,

and balanced seafood brodetto. Leave

presented in a satisfying array of guises.

cherry tomatoes, capers and Cetara an-

space for the mouthwatering dessert

We strongly suggest the housemade fet-

chovy colatura. The wine list covers all

handcrafted by super talented Claudia

tuccine with veal ragù and the cacio-

Italian regional production with interest-

Barrovecchio which are among the best

cavallo cheese and chard ravioli served

ing deviations from the classic names.

one in the US. The wine list has no end.

with butter and sage. The daily selection

Last summer, Assaggi Osteria opened an

Recently, Fabio opened a sister restaurant

of whole grilled fish or meat is definetely

adjacent Neapolitan-style pizzeria.

in Italy, Fiola at Dopolavoro Venezia.

worth it. Tiramisu’s wine list is wide-ranging and deep.

GAMBERO ROSSO

15

JUNE 2019

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN WASHINGTON

MENO MALE

OFFICINA

2711 12th St NE - Washington

1120 Maine Ave SW - Washington

+1 2022483946

+1 2027475222

Average Price: $ 20

www.officinadc.com

Master Neapolitan creche artists created

Average Price: $ 60

the traditional animated nativity scene

There’s a lot of potential here. The loca-

exhibited in this authentic pizzeria – the

tion is perfect, the rooftop terrace is lovely,

nativity itself set in a miniature ancient

cocktails are well blended, the wine list

Neapolitan pizzeria. Ettore Rusciano’s piz-

is amazing, collecting hidden gems pro-

zeria, near the Catholic University and the

duced in Alto Piemonte or Etna, together

Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, is

with super classic Italian labels. The menu

also dependably authentic in its use of in-

is extensive and well structured. To start

gredients that come directly from Naples

we suggest the fried anchovies or the

and Italy. These products are sold in his

meatball instead of the mild tripe. During

adjacent grocery store as well. The pizza is

our last visit we foud the risotto all’ortica

properly leavened, with the perfect texture

(nettle) with sausage far to cooked and

that comes from expert kneading. Easily

with a dominating garlic taste. The buca-

digested and flavorful, it is baked in the ar-

tini all’amatriciana were also bit lacking in

tisanal oven built to order on site. The only

texture and with an extra amount of red

shortcoming here is a wine list that mea-

onion. The whole grilled branzino was

sure up to the pizza, although a fine selec-

delicate and tasty and so the final ricotta

tion of craft beers makes up for it.

cheese cannolo. The service is young and attentive.

AL DENTE 3201 New Mexico Avenue Washington +1 2022442223 www.aldentedc.com Average Price: $ 160 Award-winning chef Roberto Donna is one of the legendary names in Italian food in Washington, and his sensational up & down are the subject of much gossip. He runs the kitchen at Al Dente (ex La Forchetta), a modern trattoria with a wood-burning oven and open kitchen.

It offers a family-style setting and traditional food, starting with a giadiniera (house made pickles), a grilled octopus or imported cheeses and charcuterie products. The menu features typical dishes, including lasagne, risottos, plenty of meat, fresh fish and classic soups, such as pasta e fagioli, andhomemade gnocchi and pasta. Then there’s a wood fired Neapolitan style pizza. The all Italian wine list is rich and honestly priced, with a nice selection available by the glass.

GAMBERO ROSSO

16

JUNE 2019

DISCOVER THE

PROSECCO DOC DREAMLAND

There is an entire world of tradition, beauty and style inside every bottle of Prosecco DOC. That’s why Prosecco DOC is more than just sparkling.

The Prosecco DOC Dreamland welcomes you to www.prosecco.wine.

FROM ONTARIO TO QUÉBEC ALONG THE ITALIAN WINE ROUTE Maybe due to a massive presence of Italian communities, or for a purely European wine culture, but the Canadian market remains a certainty, with bubbles driving consumption.

At the Gambero Rosso events, the monopolies were also present: “Here is how we select the wines”.

Words by Lorenzo Ruggeri

EVENTS

C

onstruction site upon construction site. The image we find of Canada is of a country in a clear expansion of real estate, gastronomy and wine.

BUBBLES IN NET GROWTH In particular, with 333.7 million euros in 2018, Canada represents the fifth target market for Italian wine.

Preceded, in the ranking, by Switzerland (376 mln/euro) and followed in sixth place by France (187 mln/ euro). Perhaps from 2019 something more was expected: the post Ceta fling everyone expected was missing, but Italian wine is doing much better than the USA and Australia, which instead appear to be in free fall.

The numbers of the first two months

THE TERMS OF THE AGREEMENT ENTERED INTO FORCE 2 YEARS AGO Enforced - but only provisionally - in September 2017, the Ceta remains the most debated free trade agreement in recent years. In the agreement, it goes without saying, not only the agri-food sector, but in seven main areas: agricultural goods, non-agricultural goods; services and investments; public contracts; Intellectual property; dispute resolution; Sustainable Development. For the agri-food sector it means combining 94% of the entry tariffs and acknowledgments of a list of denomination products. This is a continuously updated list, as demonstrated by the subsequent approval of the Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO which took place a few weeks ago, by request of the reference consortium to the open authorization system that regulates the EU-Canada treaty.

Separate chapter for wine, given that in fact Ceta incorporated the Canada-EU Wine and Spirtis agreement, signed in 2003, which already protected European wine production. Moreover, the agreement has cut down the (already not very high) tariffs on entry. Among other benefits, there are Cosds (Cost of Service Differential), which fall under the so-called discriminatory practices, which the Monopoly adopted to facilitate internal production.

GAMBERO ROSSO

20

MAY 2019

WORLDTOUR

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN TORONTO There are 12 restaurants selected in Toronto in the guide of the best Italian cuisine restaurants, awarded during the event. Among the pizzerias stand outs included Defina and Pizza e Pazzi, awarded Uno Spicchio; the wine bar section is among the richest to confirm the very appreciated Italian-style bar format. L’Unità wins Due Bottiglie, same score goes to Covo, while Bar Centrale of the Terroni group wins Tre Bottiglie for the fantastic selection of small producers and an immense range of native varieties proposed. Among the trattorias and bistros, new entry for Speducci Mercatto by Gabrielle Paganelli, specialized in cured meats and kebabs. Confirmation goes to Ardo’s Sicilian cuisine, awarded with Due Gamberi. Same score for the Bettola di Terroni, firmly led by Costantino Guzzo. Among restaurants, Due Forchette recognition goes to historic Sotto Sotto by the Rocca family, Due Forchette to Toca, Tre Forchette for Don Alfonso 1890, new for the year in the last edition presented last October. During the event, Rovagnati, main partner of Top Italian Restaurants, proposed a series of gourmet sandwiches made with Max Mariola’s recipes.

of 2019 tell us that, between January and February 2019, the value of Canadian imports of Italian wines and musts amounted to 47.1 million euros (–12.1%). But the counterbal-

ance comes from sparkling wines: +7% in value in two months and +7.4% in quantities. Strong growth, in detail, of Dop sparkling wines, driven by Prosecco: +20% in quantity

GAMBERO ROSSO

21

MAY 2019

and +15% in value; also holding fast is Asti DOP which, although losing 0.5% in quantities, marks a progression in values of 2.5% compared to the first two months of last year.

EVENTS

SANNIO FALANGHINA CONQUERS THE CANADIAN MARKET Sannio Falanghina, great protagonist of the Gambero Rosso tasting in Toronto, has just signed a partnership with the Canadian government for wine and territorial promotion. Campania and Canada thus lay the foundations for collaboration agreements in the food and wine tourism sector, precisely in the year in which the Sannio wine region has been chosen as the European Capital of Wine by the Recevin network. The agreement will be strengthened on June 20 during Québec National Day, when the Sannio Falanghina delegation will be a guest of the Canadian Embassy in Rome.

FACE TO FACE WITH THE MONOPOLY Italian wine is in excellent shape: reds have surpassed French reds in sales. But the most obvious sign is the growth of whites, who are catching up on positions. Right now, I see a huge opportunity for many Italian regions, especially South Tyrol, Sicily, and Tuscany. The average per capita consumption in Québec is the highest in North America, we are at 22 liters (the national average is 16; Ed.), we import over 40% of wines from all over Canada with a population that is 23% of the country. We also look for niche wines, we want to stimulate our customers’ curiosity, we want to amaze them, let them have the freedom to discover even very small productions. We have 400 stores and 16,000 labels, our turnover in 2018 was 3.4 billion euros.

In more recent news, e have launched a specific fidelity program, with 2.4 million card-holding customers, with whom we can talk directly. We know all the wines that they buy, genre, age group, and we prepare personalized emails with algorithms that work on the basis of their taste. In this way, we can invite them to targeted events and, above all, we can draw a picture of the most curious trends concerning purchases. Examples? Prosecco is clearly in the range of young people, it’s not true that Amarone is bought by older people, Barolo is decidedly transversal, while German wines are purchased mainly by more mature people. We know the ideal customer for each wine, and we have an entire range of information to provide to companies. And I say this to Italian producers: remember that here in Québec we have an exquisitely European palate, our consumers are super attentive.

Maxime Desjardin, responsible for the Italian selection and other European nations for SAQ.

GAMBERO ROSSO

22

MAY 2019

TORONTO SPEAKS AND DRINKS ITALIAN The Tre Bicchieri in città event went live on May 27th once again held at the Liberty Grand, as protagonists were 50 wineries and a large portion of the Italian community, one of the largest outside our borders: it’s estimated there are over 400,000 inhabitants of Italian origin, many now second or third generation. Participants also included representatives of the LCBO, Ontario’s spirits monopoly: “Italian wine is great shape, Barolo, Brunello and Pinot Grigio remain points of reference, Sicily is the fastest growing region in the South. European rosé wines are per-

WORLDTOUR

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN MONTRÉAL The figure of Emma Risa stands out among the Italian restaurants in the city. A true Roman, for almost thirty years she has been offering authentic cuisine in her Da Emma, serving meatballs with sauce and roast lamb, pasta e fagioli and cacio e pepe. The Due Gamberi recognition was awarded to her during the event.

Next, another talented chef, in this case of Molise origin, Graziella Battista, who with her Graziella has won Due Forchette, thanks to refined cuisine, with excellent ingredients and a wine list of Italian wines among the most appealing and usable in North America. SignorvinoMtl won the Contadi Castaldi Best Wine Bar award in Montréal, thanks to a targeted selection of Italian wines, top level wines and a tasty and centered pairing. Completing the picture is Fiorellino e Bottega, pizzerias in Montréal style, that is graced by exceptional wine lists, somemore so

the Ritz Carlton. “Today there is a lot of competition at restaurant level and this is good, in the air there is another sensitivity, even customers are much more aware, they travel, they recognize quality. Toronto is a city in great sprint, for a chef it’s easy because everything comes as an ingredient,” says Daniele Corona, chef at Don Alfonso Toronto.

A series of recipes prepared by the cooks of the Iaccarino family’s Canadian restaurant paired the rich selection of Falanghina del Sannio proposed by the Consortium during the event.

than back home.

forming better”, says Carolyn O’GradyGold, vice president, between tastes of Etna Rosso and Bellone from Lazio.

“When I arrived here seven years ago, there was another whole other restaurant scene. It was slow, today on

the other hand there’s great interest, quality has definitely increased, I really believe in this market and we have important investments,” says chef Oliver Glowig, who curates a consultancy at Toca, the Italian restaurant within

GAMBERO ROSSO

23

MAY 2019

MONTRÉAL AND EUROPEAN WINE CULTURE Two days after Toronto, Gambero Rosso landed in Montreal, six years after the last tasting. The Top Italian Wines Roadshow brought over 60 wineries to Québec, which celebrated the tasting held in the strategic Port of Montréal, between the waters of the Saint Lawrence river connecting the Atlantic Ocean and the great American lakes.

Definitely popular and raising great interest were the three seminars conducted by Lorenzo Ruggeri and Giuseppe Carrus, with questions and curiosities that denote a very high sensitivity and level of knowledge of the subject. Going through restaurants and bars à vin in the city is enough to understand how European the wine and gastronomic culture here is, with manic research of small producers, attention to natural wines and traditional styles. And it’s sufficient to enter any store in the Société des Alcools du Québec to understand how different the attention to quality is, with brilliant choices, which find little evidence in the panorama of monopolies and reward Italian wine.

Meanwhile, the date of next year’s event has already been set, in this case it will be a return of the Tre Bicchieri: Monday, May 4th, 2020.

PHOTOGALLERY TORONTO

EVENTS

GAMBERO ROSSO

24

MAY 2019

PHOTOGALLERY MONTRÉAL

WORLDTOUR

GAMBERO ROSSO

25

MAY 2019

GAMBERO ROSSO X RIDOLFI

The love for Montalcino And the new youth of Ridolfi

1

Località Mercatali, Montalcino: this is where Ridolfi is located. The estate, which previously belonged to the Florentine family whose name it bears with the coat of arms on the label, was bought in 2011 by the entrepreneur Giuseppe Valter Peretti, owner of the Rocchetto estate in Larciano in Chianti, about twenty kilometers south of Pistoia: «For a long time I was evaluating some wineries in the area that had been offered to me – Peretti explains – I chose this one because it was the right size, neither too big nor too small.

However, it lacked adequate facilities; for this reason I immediately started working on designing a new cellar, trying to expand the vineyard area a little». Giuseppe Peretti is head of one of the most important groups in the Italian 3

2

4

GAMBERO ROSSO

leather tanning industry: the group that bears his name is based in the Valle del Chiampo district, in Veneto. How did you get to Ridolfi? «Wine is a passion I have been cultivating for a long time and Montalcino is a love that dates back to the 1970s. It’s not just a territory: it has now become a renowned brand worldwide. When I decided to diversify my business realities, it was only natural that I would choose this portion of Tuscany».

The company is located on the north side of Montalcino, the generally cooler one, at about 300 meters above sea level near the Strada del Brunello wine road: 35 hectares, of which 19 are vineyards, to which the 22 of the Rocchetto Estate are added, in the province of Pistoia, where the vine-

26

MAY 2019

GAMBERO ROSSO X RIDOLFI

1. The Tenuta Ridolfi, in the north side of Montalcino 2. Giuseppe Valter Peretti, proprietor since 2011 3. Oenologist Gianni Maccari 4. The estate’s Rosso and the two Brunello di Montalcino 5. The evocative view from the Enoteca Osticcio

THE WINERY IN NUMBERS

120.000 bottles 90% destined to the foreign market Montalcino 35 overall hectares 19 hectares planted in vines Tenuta Ronchetto, Larciano (PT) 22 hectares 5 hectares planted in vines 5

yard extends for five hectares and the olive grove for eleven.

The grapes are then transformed by the skilled hands of Gianni Maccari, in the company since 2014 after a long experience in Poggio di Sotto: «Our style is traditional, to exalt the characteristics of the grapes we bring to the cellar – says the oenologist – always very healthy grapes that come from vineyards cultivated with particular attention to the environment: copper and sulfur for treatments, sexual confusion against pests, sowing and green manure between the rows». The range of wines starts from Rosso di Montalcino: «For us this is a very important wine, because it represents the caling card for Brunello; so, after eight months of medium-sized oak, we choose the best barrel, the one that proves to be the most ready for the type». Then we pass to Brunello, a traditional technique – vinification in steel with long maceration on the skins, oak barrels of 25 to 35 hectoliters for 36 month – and in the stretch. Donna Rebecca is more modern, Brunello looking to Burgundy: maceration and fermentation in new, un-roasted barriques, then matured in barriques for 28 months. Finally the Mercatale, for now a selection from the barrel, but it’s the label that from the 2015 vintage will be destined to the Riserva.

Enoteca Osticcio Terrace-laboratory in Montalcino Those who know the area know that the Ristorante Enoteca Osticcio takes its name from the hill on which it’s located and is housed inside a building that overlooks the valley and the surrounding hills, offering a breathtaking view of the territory of Montalcino. From 2017 the business, managed for 25 years by Tullio Scrivani, was taken over by Giuseppe Valter Peretti: what was a traditional tavern has turned into a top restaurant. «We changed the idea of the restaurant: from a typical tavern to a place that offers gourmet cuisine with the goal of creating a meeting place for visitors in search of a quality welcome». At the helm in the kitchen is young Ronald Bukri, strong in top-cuisine experience in Italy (Lopriore, Corelli, Giacomello) and abroad (London, Spain, Thailand), he proposes a highly technical and crative cuisine, but without excess.

Ridolfi – località Mercatali, 1 – Montalcino (SI) – 05771698333 – ridolfimontalcino.it

GAMBERO ROSSO

27

MAY 2019

ACROSS THE USA. A MARKET TO PRESIDE

The closure of this season of the Gambero Rosso Worldtour is entrusted to the first destination of Italian wine.

The desire for Made in Italy and the welcome received drive away the shadows on tariff duties, while the first part of the year smiles above all towards bubbles

by Giuseppe Carrus and Lorenzo Ruggeri

EVENTS

F

irst target market for Italian wine, last stage of the season for the Gambero Rosso World Tour: the United States remains a certainty for Italian cellars, recently worried by the announced protectionist policies of President Donald Trump. Yet the numbers of the first quarter of 2019, send reassuring signals: from January to March, according to the Wine Observatory of Unione Italiana Vini, import of bottled still wines from Italy recorded a +5% in volume (–5 % in value), over the French that has remained at last year’s quantities. Even better are bubbles that scored a net +20% by volume and +10% in value, exceeding $100 million.

2018 had closed at 1.68 billion euro (1.28 billion for bottled still wines and 377 million for bubbles): +2% compared to 2017. Certainly could

have been better, but to measure the link between the US and Italy, we must look at this last decade, which saw a growth in imports of Italian wine by as much as 90% in value (Osservatorio Federvini wine & spirits), decreeing the first place held by the United States as a destination market for Italian wine and the one with the greatest growth margins, especially for certain product categories, such as sparkling wine and rosé. We are also talking about the market where wine consumption continues to rise, with a 14% share of world consumption (it was 9% in 2000).

Certainly, duties and tariffs remain the unknown factor, which not even the visit of Deputy Prime Minister Matteo Salvini in Washington was able to clarify. According to Coldiretti, Italian food products, including wine, could also be in the crosshairs, for a

Consumption of wines.

Trends (2018/2000)

Italian wines. Destination markets

Markets

(mln €) France 11%

Other Countries 41%

US 11%

Italy 9% source: Winemonitor Nomisma

2018

Germany 8%

Russia 5% China 7%

30

18/17

US

1681

2%

UK

971

4%

Switzerland

367

-1%

Canada

354

1%

Russia

265

4%

Japan

166

-3%

France

164

15%

Sweden

161

1%

Netherlands

148

10%

World wine consumption: 246 Mln hl

GAMBERO ROSSO

Var %

JUNE 2019

source: Osservatorio Wine&Spirits Federvini

2018

UK 5%

total EU value of 11 billion euro. At the moment, let’s remember, that in the US there is a 5 cents duty on standard 0.75 liter bottles of wine and 14 cents on bubbles. Conversely, US wines in Europe are taxed up to 29 cents per bottle. Reason for which Trump would have pointed the finger at this disparity and above all against French wines (but all European wines would inevitably be involved). Beyond how it will end (we should have more certain news in the first days of July), Italian wine is now an integral part of American culture and certainly tariff barriers will be the ones to block the desire for Made in Italy, as evidenced by the latest feedback from received from Gambero Rosso tour, which touched on four key cities: Washington, Boston (with the final stops of the Top Italian Wines Roadshow), Atlanta and San Diego (with Vini d’Italia Previews).

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EVENTS

Top Italian Wines Roadshow.

From Washington to Boston

T

he event in the US capital went on stage in the Italian Embassy on June 5th, with over 60 participating wineries and a highly selected group of importers and operators in city that is experiencing an extraordinary food and wine development. Massive investments, new openings, a competitive restaurant scene like never before, the many journalists present inform us. We were impressed by the interest found in the two seminars: we had to add tables, we were bombarded with questions and curiosities that prolonged the master classes, with events lasting as long as a baseball game.

“We have never had such extensive overviews on the diversity of Italian viticulture, we tasted so many grapes for the first time today. Here Champagne and Burgundy have trained so much, there is so much to do in Italy”, told us journalist Stephanie Moran Baldwin.

Pushing and daring with lesser-known denominations and small producers are the many Italian restaurants in the city, including Italian and Italian-American chefs who have finally activated a virtuous circuit of healthy competition that had been missing for years. The scene of wine bars in the city is literally exploding, many openings in recent years, from Cork to Barcelona, wine is increasingly the protagonist in the evenings of a city that is slowly changing its face: from city of government offices, where people once moved to work, to a foodie capital. The path has just begun but the first steps are very positive.

ROVAGNATI. WASHINGTON AND BOSTON The partnership with Rovagnati continues. In Washington, during the event hosted at the Italian Embassy, a series of gourmet sandwiches were proposed with the group’s cured meats, carefully made according to Max Mariola’s tasty recipes. Another example in Boston, where granbiscotto, mortadella and porchetta went to fill pizzas of Mast’, the pizzeria awarded in the Top Italian Restuarants, and a series of stuffed pastas, from mezzelune to ravioli. Montanarine, folded pizzas, classic pizzas, gourmet pizzas: a repertoire paired with a selection of wines from Tre Bicchieri from native grape varieties for an informal and very lively lunch in a pizzeria, with 30 trade journalists all enthusiastic about the new story, effective and tasty..

GAMBERO ROSSO

32

JUNE 2019

WORLDTOUR

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS WASHINGTON The Italian restaurant scene in the city is clearly evolving. During the event, two pizzerias were awarded with Uno Spicchio recognition: Stellina by Antonio Matarazzo and Mattia Venin, and Meno Male by Ettore Rusciano. In both cases the pizza style is Neapolitan, with compelling wine lists, especially in the case of Stellina, a brand new opening in the city. Standing out on the trattoria front is Al Dente, chef Roberto Donna, awarded with Un Gambero, and Lupo Verde, who earned Due Gamberi, while preparing to open the fourth branch in the city within a few months. The Contadi Castaldi Best Wine Bar in Washington went to Cafè Milano, a historic venue that has managed to maintain a rare constant high level in these parts over time, with commendable focus on Italian wine, increased in recent years. “We wanted to pour about forty wines, focusing on a premium selection thanks to Coravin which was a great success”, tells us the wine director Giacomo Galimberti”. Finally, the Tre Forchette prize goes to Fiola, Fabio Trabocchi’s restaurant, with an exceptional wine cellar, the very talented pastry chef Claudia Barrovecchio, and a refined cuisine based on excellent ingredients

GAMBERO ROSSO

33

JUNE 2019

EVENTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS BOSTON

PAOLO LEO. A FAMILY AFFAIR

In Susumaniello we trust. This is what emerged among Boston journalists during Paolo Leo’s dinner in Boston, within the award-winning SRV venue, whose name is inspired

by Stella Rosa Venezia. Telling the story and illustrating the wines of the family-run cellar of San Donaci are young Stefano and Alessandro Leo, who have developed a journey amid primitivo, negroamaro and susumaniello, a variety definitely appreciated for its versatility and a fragrant and delicately spicy character. Pairings included regional Italian dishes, gracefully revisited by chefs Micheal Lombadi and Kevin O’Donnell.

In terms of Italian restaurants, there is still room for improvement in the city, but there are also virtuous cases, awarded during the event. Mast’ by Marco Caputo was rated as the best pizzeria in town with Due Spicchi, while SRV is the best bistro awarded with Due Gamberi, thanks to an innovative concept: “We were inspired by the style of the Venetian bacaro wine bar, we focused on the tradition of ‘cicchetti’ and a rich Italian wine list”, says chef Michael Lombardi. Pasquale’s was also awarded during the event, which was awarded Due Spicchi. The headquarters is in South Kingstown, Rhode Island, which goes to show that even in the smallest of States it’s possible to find spaghetti with the enchanting Piennolo tomatoes and a fine pizza Margherita.

Two days after Washington, it was Boston’s turn, the last leg of the grand tour. The event took place in the central structure of the Cyclorama, with 60 wineries in the front row. Of all the cities touched in the United States, Boston was the one with the most deeply rooted brewing culture, where many of the pioneers of craft beer revolution like Samuel Adams were born.

Less than expected participation, but many journalists at the event, such as Jim Camanini, columnist with The Herald Tribune: “I was impressed by Sicilian wines and in general by Southern Italy. Finally these wines and these native grape varieties are finding greater visibility. The carricante is an extraordinary vine, and equally fiano and falanghina”.

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PHOTOGALLERY WASHINGTON

PHOTOGALLERY BOSTON

EVENTS

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WORLDTOUR

Vini d’Italia Anteprime.

From Atlanta to San Diego

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ore than 40 wineries in Atlanta and a little less in San Diego, each of which presented different wines. This is how the guests were able to taste a beautiful summary of the Italian wine-making world, from sparkling wines to sweet wines by way of whites and reds. There were some wines awarded with the Tre Bicchieri award, of course, but also several labels with an excellent value for money, selected in the “Berebene Guide”. And, as it was the month of June there were also the wines in preview: so many products present on the market, the result of new vintages, presented a few months ago at the pertinent trade fairs. Here, too, the familiar keywords were: territoriality and native vines, the true strength of Italy.

Atlanta, in particular, is the eighth ranked city in the United States and 17th in the World for generated GDP. It’s the city where some of the big multinationals were born – and still have their headquarters – such as Coca-Cola, Delta Airlines, CNN (with all the media galaxy that revolves around it) and UPS (leading carrier in freight transport ). But Atlanta is also the city of Martin Luther King, civil rights struggles culminating in the election as mayor of an AfricanAmerican man, Maynard Jackson.

After the economic crisis of 2008, the city is now experiencing an incredible recovery and many sectors, in addition to those already consolidated, are emerging. Among these, without a

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS SAN DIEGO In the city on the border with Mexico, the food & wine ferment is mostly visible thanks to the Italian brands present, and thanks to the new openings planned in the coming months. It’s no coincidence that in San Diego there were so many presences registered at the event in terms of restaurateurs, wine shops and wine bar owners, supported by buyers, who have always been guests of Gambero Rosso events organized for some time in San Francisco and Los Angeles. Therefore, within the event, the space dedicated to Top Italian Restaurants – the guide to the excellence of Italian catering in the world – was a must. Top ranking are three venues. Conquering Due Forchette is Solare, an Italian restaurant owned by the eclectic Randy Smerik, passionate Californian and a great connoisseur of Italian food and wine. The authentic and solid cuisine is entrusted to Tuscan chef Filippo Piccini. Dario Gallo’s project, instead, garners Due Gamberi as the best trattoria in town: Civico1845 is located in the heart of Little Italy and is the ideal place to enjoy a good glass of wine and genuine, tasty dishes of our tradition. There’s room also for the great wine lists. Urban Kitchen is present in the city through various venues, including grocery, enotecas and wine bars: the latter takes the name of Cucina Urbana, with an incredible wine list for choice and number of labels and is directed by Augusto Ferrarese from Verona.

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EVENTS

winery in Puglia. “Only professionals, wine connoisseurs and traders approached my space, interested in our Apulian wines that are still not exported here. An event that no doubt needs to be repeated”. With the same opinion is Greta Bandini, Podere Sapaio, who conquered Atlanta with a very good Bolgheri Superiore ‘16: “some people knew the wine, although we still weren’t importing here, others tried it for the first time and appreciated it, also because of the lucky 2016 vintage”.

Big difference between Georgia and California, not only ain regards to lifestyle, but also education and consumption of wine and food.

California is undoubtedly one of the States where quality restaurant dining is widespread and, thanks to the,

PHOTOGALLERY SAN DIEGO

doubt, there is restaurant dining and the desire to raise the quality level with ingredients, techniques, service and with wine. Although federal laws on the import of wine in Georgia are among the strictest in the United States, wine culture is growing in the State and in the city, and so is the desire to know Italian wines and its territories. The event was a big success, unexpected for many wineries, their first time visiting here. Many importers and distributors were eager to taste and discover, but above all interested in scouting companies not yet imported. “It’s my first time in Atlanta and for the very first time for me at a Gambero Rosso event,” says Giovanni Di Gaetano, owner of the MirVita

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the culture of wine is deeply rooted.

There are many Italian labels already imported and highly appreciated by the locals. A comparison between the two cities is launched by Gianluca Saladino, export manager of the Sicilian company Fondo Antico: “For me, these two stages of Gambero Rosso were a pleasant surprise: in Atlanta I discovered a new market that was very curious, dynamic and without prejudice, while in San Diego I found a community strongly interested in Italian wine that needs to be valued and this often doesn’t happen because of the nearby Los Angeles and San Francisco...”.

And so Gambero Rosso cannot avoid thinking ahead to the new 2019/2020 tour. Returning here becomes almost mandatory.

PHOTOGALLERY ATLANTA

WORLDTOUR

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GAMBERO ROSSO WITH OPTIMA GROUP

The best of the best of sweet arts comes to the out-of-home kitchens

A highly performing training and research centre entirely dedicated to pastry arts like Casa Optima, and the most complete multimedia and multi-channel platform for content, services and training in the food and wine sector, Gambero Rosso, was an inevitable encounter. And when they did, they each made available to the other venues, skills, tools and communication channels as well as products of the Mec3, Modecor and Giuso brands belonging to the Optima Group. The result of this meeting are the Gambero Rosso and Casa Optima co-brand courses scheduled after the summer at the Casa Optima offices in Italy and at the Gambero Rosso Academy in

Common training project between Optima Group and Gambero Rosso to bring the experience of modern patisserie and a cutting-edge know-how also to restaurants, bars and hotels around the world Rome, Turin, Cesena, Naples, Lecce and Palermo with collaborations between professionals of both entities.

There’s more: it will be possible to receive updates on the most recent innovations in the art of confectionery and gelato making thanks to a dedicated web series that will contain recipes made with the most advanced instruments of the Optima

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group. «We are enthusiastic about the partnership with Casa Optima, with which we share the mission of training complete professionals, able to face market demands using the most advanced technologies – says Paolo Cuccia, President of Gambero Rosso – The confectionery sector is in constant growth and needs experts possessing skills

GAMBERO ROSSO WITH OPTIMA GROUP

Il meglio del meglio delle sweet arts arriva nelle cucine del fuori-casa

become the same in all Sweet Arts: gelato, pastry, decorations and beverage. Therefore, the idea of combining our know-how with courses organized in Italy and around the world seemed immediately to be

needed to be competitive in a sector that is increasingly attentive to quality and process methods».

«The collaboration with Gambero Rosso Academy stems from the desire to present the Casa Optima project also to those who don’t normally operate in the world of artisan gelato in the strict sense – explains Claudio Riva, CEO Optima – I consider it a perfect combination of two entities that, each in their own sector, are recognized and established reference points: if Gambero Rosso is the largest professional platform in the Gourmet sector, the Optima group, with Casa Optima, aims to

Pioneers of gelato It was 1984 when for the first time MEC3 entered the world of artisan gelato making. Over the years, the offer has multiplied: from the bases then to include also complete products. And MEC3 has strengthened: today it’s present in over 150 countries in the world where it brings not only local flavours and local typicalities, but also a classically Italian know-how. In 2016 the company joined Charterhouse Capital Partners LLP: this allowed a further development of the company with the expansion of the offer and with the acquisition of other brands operating in the sector with the same mix of craftsmanship and industrial development that characterizes MEC3. In 2017, it began to define itself as a true global point of reference for gelato, pastry and beverage: Modecor Italiana, a leading company in the production of confectionery decorations (8,000 customers in 70 countries worldwide) was then acquired.

In 2018 it was the turn of Giuso Guido, a Piedmontese company that celebrates its century of activity this year and which is also a reference point for professionals from all over the world in the fields of gelato and pastry. For the past twenty years Giuso had already begun a journey of quality to combine innovation, large numbers and a natural approach, making these the cornerstones of its production.

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a winning one. The goal is to reach more and more people and train them with the help of Gambero Rosso experts, which I consider to be the most authoritative and accredited partner around».

GAMBERO ROSSO WITH OPTIMA GROUP

Casa Optima-Gambero Rosso «A state of the art training centre» Of the importance of training and the joint venture between two big names in the world of confectionery and culture of gastronomic enterprise – Casa Optima and Gambero Rosso – we discussed with Cristina Tosi, Marketing Director B. U. Ice Cream and Casa Optima World Manager.

What are the values of Casa Optima?

We put our experience at the service of customers to build a successful business with them. This is the philosophy behind Casa Optima, the international school of high education in sweet arts. A school with a unique teaching method, a complete educational offer and a team of qualified teachers who spread the Italian confectionery art and remain available to students even after graduation.

Who is it aimed at?

Through a transversal and structured training offer on different levels, we set the objective of strengthening the business of qualified professionals and training those who approach these fields for the first time. Casa Optima is also a research and development centre that anticipates market trends, a fulcrum of experiments that go as far as the realization of finished products.

What are the characteristics of the courses?

Gelato making, confectionery, professional cake decoration, coffee specialties and cocktails are the themes of an intense training program, arranged on multiple levels, aimed at qualified professionals or newbies. Casa Optima adopts the ‘one to one’ teaching method: classes of up to 12 students with individual workstations fully equipped to allow students to move from theory to practice and interact with teachers drawing directly from their experiences. The Basic, Intermediate and Advanced gelato courses meet the needs of gelato makers, whatever their level, with targeted focus and in-depth information on specific topics.l

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Optima Group and the need for more training “Wholesomeness, Transparency, Quality, Variety and Smile”: these are the values shared by all the brands on which the Optima Group is founded, along with basic craftsmanship. With different products and brands, Optima covers the needs of an entire sector acting as reference point. In this world, however, if we want to grow in quality, it’s not enough to produce: we need to train. We need to create awareness and knowledge in the reference customers. «We realized that by exporting an Italian product all over the world, it’s necessary to enable anyone to work to the fullest. And we felt the need to create a school that could unite the three sectors and highlight all three of our realities» says Cristina Tosi, Marketing Director B. U. Ice Cream and Head of Casa Optima World.

Thus, in 2018, Casa Optima was born, a project dedicated to education, which takes artisans inside and outside Italy borders. “The schools are inside our branches, around ten in total, of which three in Italy”.

San Clemente (RN), Bistagno (AL), Cuvio (VA), Monaco, Miami, Dubai, Shanghai, Sao Paulo, Prague and Budapest where there are classrooms with fully equipped stations for each student.

GAMBERO ROSSO WITH OPTIMA GROUP

The best of the best of sweet arts comes to the out-of-home kitchens

Are there also specialized and themed courses?

Financial management, ingredients, human resources and marketing are, for example, the topics of the course “From passion to business”. “Pastry trends” instead deals with modern cakes, while pastry and gelato making are the focus of the “Classics in Evolution” course. For cake design there is the course “Decoration & Design”.

To prepare a top quality espresso or the perfect cappuccino there’s “Drinkable Creativity”: Specialty Coffee & More course dedicated to Why the partnership with Gambero Rosso Academy?

The collaboration stems from the desire to present Casa Optima to the Ho.Re.Ca universe and represents a perfect combination of two entities that, each in its own sector, are recognized and established reference points. The goal is to reach more and more people and train them with the help of the Gambero Rosso and Casa Optima know-how and experts. The two leaders of vocational training will be on hand to increase knowledge in the Pastry and Gelato areas, with lectures and laboratory sessions to train future professionals with unprecedented Gambero Rosso and Casa Optima co-branded courses at the Casa Optima offices in Rimini, Alessandria and Varese, and Gambero Rosso branches in Rome, Turin, Cesena, Naples, Lecce and Palermo.Alessandria e Varese, e quelle di Roma, Torino, Cesena, Napoli, Lecce e Palermo del Gambero Rosso.

From 101 to Master, meeting with Gambero Rosso Food & Wine Academy The Casa Optima courses range from the basic 101 courses for beginners to the intermediate level and up to the advanced level for those who want to specialize with a focus on specific subjects: a range of proposals varying according to needs.

The subjects: Gelato and pastry––traditional and modern (the course is called Classics in Evolution)––professional cake decoration, but also coffee specialties (which also teaches how to prepare signature espresso or the perfect cappuccino), mixology and cocktails, store marketing and management and human resources. A successful venue is mainly a place that also works as a business.

As far as results, «Some of our students now also have 10 or 12 stores where they are still supported by our teachers, given that the challenges don’t end with the course, but training continues by building a relationship of exchange and trust» explains Cristina Tosi «Making gelato is not a simple thing: it’s not enough to use quality ingredients to make a good product... We aim to train professionals able to make informed choices. The technical preparation, combined with the talent and craftsmanship of the gelato maker, are decisive for the venture’s success». This type of training is now also reaching the dining world, thanks to the partnership with Gambero Rosso.

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VERDICCHIO BOYS. HOW NEW GENERATIONS RETHINK WINEMAKING OF CASTELLI DI JESI Longevity and versatility, pushed towards organic regimen and experimentation. The Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is experiencing one of the magic moments of its history. The secret?

The new wine producers who, next to the historical names of the denomination, now want to join the Italian A-list wines

Words by Loredana Sottile – infographics by Alessandro Naldi

STORIES

W

ine has always been made around here, but what we are about to share is a rather recent story. A story made up of grandparents and grandchildren, fathers and sons, or simply passionate young people, who have travelled the world only to return to their roots, ready to rewrite that story or, at least to enter into it as protagonists.

We are within the perimeter of the Castelli di Jesi, the land of the namesake Verdicchio. And it's here, in the presence of this "red dressed in white" (honorary title that has been won thanks to its longevity) which in the last decade has massively returned to the earth, rewarded by the positive feedback hailing both from Italy and abroad.

To promote the wine's upward positioning were also and above all choices – in the past considered against the current – that today are instead rewarded by the market: the determination to focus on the native grapes (the Castelli di Jesi have never succumbed to the foreign siren song) and switching to organic. And then there are the

people: the creators of the change, the link between the past and the future of the denomination, the Verdicchio Boys, as someone started calling them.

FROM CONTRIBUTORS TO CULT BRANDS «Do you remember the Barolo Boys? Our revolution has already begun», Leopardo Felici tells us without hesitation, leading the Andrea Felici winery with his father and life partner Ilaria.

Thanks to his determination, what was a reality of mere wine growers has become, over a period of 15 years, one of the most prominent wineries in the Castelli di Jesi panorama (Tre Bicchieri for the Cantico della Figura Reserve 2015 in the Vini d'Italia 2019 guide).

«If there were once only a few big names – he continues – now we are many, even small, with a great desire to get things done. Relationships have become increasingly collaborative, we meet and discuss.

Also thanks to the maxi Imt consortium (the Istituto Marchigiano di Tutela Vini, Ed.) which acts a bit like glue». His cellar is located in Apiro. His story, on the other hand, has led him for years out of his native Marche: «My father told IMT: “GOAL: DIVERSIFY”. THE CRU PROJECT IS IN THE WORKS

2

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi today is considered the diamond head of the Marche Institute for the Protection of Wine, a maxi consortium representing 15 denominations in the region and 89% of the bottled product. «In the last decade – director Alberto Mazzoni tells us – we chose to focus all our efforts on the peculiarities of the vine by going beyond the image of the easy wine that had made it famous in the past, and to bring value to all its strengths: structure, minerality, aging capacity, but also versatility. Not by chance, the production was quota, the average

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surface area of hectares planted with vines tripled, and over ¼ of the vineyard extension was renewed». Now, the focus for the future is zoning. A word that resonates more and more in these parts and that is currently being examined by Imt's hypothesis: «The 23 Castelli di Jesi – Mazzoni explains – are surveyed according to the disciplinary institution of the Doc of '68, meaning that half the work is done. But our idea is to go beyond zoning and create a classification of soils. So, based on this, create sub-areas that can be added on the label». In short, a kind of cru that

VERDICCHIO BOYS

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brings even more prestige to the denomination.

«Today – Mazzoni reflects – wine has fallen into the abyss of globalization which, in a nutshell, means lots of quantity, poor quality and low prices. We have always tried to move in the opposite direction. We have been doing this since the 1980s, focusing all on the native grapes, we continued with the choice of organic farming, driven above all by a generation change; now we are convinced that the creation of the crus can be the future way to continue to diversify».

1. Leopardo Felici, first to the right, with his family (photo Jeroen Hanselaer) 2. Alberto Mazzoni, Director of the Marche Institute for the Protection of Wine 3. Roberto Cantori, owner of Fattoria Nannì 4. Alessandro Fenino and Sivia Loschi: manage for Barone Pizzini the Pievalta estate 5. Riccardo Baldi in the rows at La Staffa, his family’s winery 6. Giacomo Mattioli, oenologist of Umani Ronchi and of the family estate of Poderi Mattioli In the opening, a view of the Apiro vineyard of the Andrea Felici estate (photo by Jeroen Hanselaer)

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me that before working in the company I should have known wine deeply. So, at 22, I went to work in the restaurant business: in London at the Savoy Hotel and in Florence at Enoteca Pinchiorri. Two experiences that marked and taught me many of the things I know about wine today. Also my idea of Verdicchio has matured in those years, although, then, there were very few Marche bottles in London». Today, on the other hand, it's not so strange to find them, given that practically half of the product is exported abroad.

«In 2006 – Felici continues – I returned to the company with clear ideas. At that point I knew what wine I wanted to make.

First of all, only Verdicchio: it was time to believe in it, without being distracted by the easy lure of international varieties. Then, a wine without oak: the minerality comes from the territory and the oak could cover it. For this reason, our wine is only aged in cement. Finally, an organic wine (even if the cellar has not yet requested certification, Ed.), so much so that today we also have a natural oasis: there is a small lake that creates the ecosystem and the forest that acts as an amphitheater». And this is now the oasis of happiness of Leopardo, although from his experience abroad he learned how to open up to the world is fundamental in this profession: which is why, today, he spends five months out of the year travelling the world to promote his wines. The rest of the time is spent in the vineyard. A bit like all the other Verdicchio Boys.

A CHALLENGE CALLED FATTORIA NANNÌ Fellow marchigiano (from the Apiro area), "follower" and almost the same age as Leopardo, Roberto Cantori is one of the young revelations of the territory. Only recently a producer, he bought his Fattoria Nannì in 2016, but with a lot of experience in wine. Ini-

STORIES

tially abroad - working in places such as the Sonoma Valley to Portugal - then in Italy: in Tuscany and in his beloved Marche.

«From the experiences abroad, especially in the USA – he says – I carry a wealth of important knowledge. The main thing is the analytical approach to viticulture, which directs me towards choices calculated in the smallest details, aimed at obtaining a wine without defects, but at the same time as an expression of the territory». As a good winemaker, Roberto knows that to obtain a good product you can't be satisfied with a mere good harvest: the wine should also be tended to in the cellar. He, for example, collects in bins (perforated plastic boxes) and the day after the harvest stops 24 hours to take care of those grapes that are in the meantime deposited in a cold room that lowers the temperature.

«Conceptually it means replacing the cooling of the must with that of the grapes.

This procedure allows me to take the couple of hours necessary to reason and work without haste. Clearly I can't do that if I leave the grapes at room temperature».

Two labels are the product of his 5 hectares of organic vineyard (in addition to the 3.5 rented and in conversion). The first – the one that brought him to the limelight and appreciated in the wine scene – is Origini. The latest addition to the market is, on the other hand, the Arsicci entry level. Altogether the winery does not produce more than 25,000 bottles with the objective of reaching 30,000: those necessary to have a presence also in the foreign market, which for the time being is little frequented.

For the denomination, on the other hand, Roberto hopes that the project of the so-called crus – of which so much is talked about within the Consortium – can become a reality. «I would like – he wishes – that what the contemporary national viticulture is going through can also

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI IN NUMBERS

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hectares of vineyard area (in the provinces of Ancona and Macerata) winegrowers winemakers bottlers hectoliters produced bottles produced

HISTORIC VOICES UMANI RONCHI I would say that the viticultural approach has changed for some years now, let's say technically for fifteen years (at least) with an awareness and transformation of the vineyard towards an increasingly quality-oriented viticulture, with more densely planted rown than in the past, lower average yields than in the 1980s, and a general renewal of the vineyard. Surely the novelty of recent times concerns the conversion of an ever increasing number of organic vineyards. Our company itself, in some ways historical, has transformed more than half into an area that today exceeds 50 hectares.

The market, on the other hand, is divided into two large areas of attention towards Verdicchio. One, which concerns products of greater volume linked to daily consumption and lower added value, certainly less brilliant; the other is the opposite, with the awareness of a high quality Verdicchio idea, stylistically very elegant and characterized by freshness and ability for maturation, where the consumer recognizes the denomination a fundamental role among the great historical Italian whites. We try to do everything to grow this part of the market.

– Michele Bernetti, owner of Umani Ronchi

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fully concern the Marche. Here, in fact, there is a living substrate of new wine producers who, together with the historical names that have made the denomination great, want to finally enter the Italian Alist wines».

ALSO FOREIGNERS IN CASTELLI DI JESI A-list or not, the fact of already playing in a high-level league is understood from the capacity of attraction that the team exerts on "foreigners". And the amount of various expats on the territory leave no doubt in this respect.

Be it low land prices or high quality of life, in recent years the Castelli

VILLA BUCCI When I started working in wine Castelli di Jesi was very different.

The importer at that time had even suggested that I remove Verdicchio and plant Chardonnay instead: fortunately I didn't listen to him. Obviously from the beginning I placed all my bets on the company brand: at the time the denomination was practically unknown. I understood that things would change when I saw many young people return to the vineyards and start making wine. Of course, today there is still lots to do, especially in terms of prices. But we must take into account that we are talking about a denomination that started from the bottom, so rise up will take a little more time and effort. It's probably necessary to have more courage in proposing oneself.

– Ampelio Bucci, owner of Villa Bucci THE COOPERATIVE WORLD Verdicchio, like all Italian wines, was born as a local wine for home consumption in a country, Italy, that has strictly agricultural origins. Over time the vine also reached peaks of world fame, but in a competitive price category, which has also favoured distribution. Today, like many other Italian wines, it's favoured by the general trend towards the premium, for which there's been 'growth both on the part of the market (in terms of disposition to the expense), and on the part of the offer in terms of quality. Verdicchio, being a vine that's very adaptable to the various production needs, can therefore boast a presence in market categories ranging from the most competitive to the premium.

The wine, having a sustained structure and an innate freshness, is particularly appreciated by the most advanced markets in Northern Europe, Japan and the United States and has great opportunities for development thanks to the advantageous quality/price ratio that characterizes it in the medium-high market: true, it is the most expensive of the entry wines, but it's also the most approachable of the high-end wines.

– Doriano Marchetti, President of Moncaro

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STORIES

I TRE BICCHIERI OF VINI D'ITALIA 2019

Pesaro

Tre Bicchieri I Castelli Altre zone della DOC

CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. TARDIVO TARDO RIS. ’16 - SANTA BARBARA BARBARA (AN) - SANTABARBARA.IT INTENSITY AND PLEASANTNESS ARE THE MAIN TRAITS THAT DESIGN A GREAT 2016 VERSION OF THE LATE HARVEST VERDICCHIO: MEMORIES OF CITRUS, ANISE AND SUMMER

Fano

MA NON

FRUITS REVERBERATE IN THE LONG AND VIGOROUS FINISH

CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. SAN SISTO RIS. ’16 FAZI BATTAGLIA CASTELPLANIO (AN) - FAZIBATTAGLIA.IT SAN SISTO '16 IS ONE OF THE BEST VERSIONS EVER: ELEGANT AT THE NOSE, COMBINING TOASTED ALMOND, MEDICINAL HERBS AND ANISE, REPLICATING ITS TRACES IN THE DIFFUSIVE, BRIGHT, LONG-LASTING PALATE. THREE IMPERIAL GLASSES RECOGNIZED. VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. MISCO ’17 - TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO CINGOLI (MC) - TENUTADITAVIGNANO.IT GREATEST EVIDENCE OF ELEGANCE AND SAPID TISSUE FOR THIS VERDICCHIO MISCO: THE 2017 VERSION EXCEEDS THE DANGERS OF A TORRID VINTAGE AND REACHES ANOTHER

Senigallia Santa Barbara CasalFarneto Corinaldo Castelleone di Suasa

Ostra Vetere

Ostra Belvedere Ostrense

Barbara Serra De’Conti

Pievalta

Montecarotto

Umani Ronchi

Jesi

Poggio San Marcello Castelplanio Castelbellino Rosora Monte Roberto Mergo Maialati Spontini San Paolo di Jesi Cupramontana Serra San Quirico Arcevia

Osimo Castelfidardo

Staffolo

MIXTURE THAT DOES NOT LOSE BALANCE AND ENERGY CREATING A SUMPTUOUS SIP THAT'S VERY LONG, WITH

Gioacchino Garofoli

Frati Bianchi

MARKED MINERAL TRAITS.

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. YLICE ’16 PODERI MATTIOLI SERRA DE' CONTI (AN) - PODERIMATTIOLI.IT IN THIS VINTAGE THE MATTIOLI HAVE PRESENTED TWO VERY WONDERFUL VERDICCHIOS. TRE BICCHIERI GO TO THE FANTASTIC YLICE '16: ON THE NOSE IT EXPRESSES A VITAL AND LUXURIANT SCENT OF LEMON, ALMOND AND AROMATIC HERBS, FOLLOWED BY A RHYTHMIC AND POTENT PALATE, REFINED MIX OF JUICINESS AND CHARACTER.

San Marcello

Poderi Mattioli

TRE BICCHIERI AWARD.

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. IL PRIORE ’16 - SPARAPANI - FRATI BIANCHI CUPRAMONTANA (AN) - FRATIBIANCHI.IT PRIORE '16 IS A STELLAR VERSION, PROBABLY THE BEST EVER CREATED AS WELL AS THE FANTASTIC 2006 WHICH BROUGHT THE FIRST TRE BICCHIERI TO THE COMPANY: ALMONDS, AROMATIC HERBS, LEMON ZEST FORM A TASTY

Ancona Morro d’Alba

Apiro

Tenuta di Tavignano

Fazi Battaglia Andrea Felici

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. GRANCASALE ’16 - CASALFARNETO SERRA DE' CONTI (AN) - CASALFARNETO.IT THE VERDICCHIO GRANCASALE '16 RETURNS TO TAKE TRE BICCHIERI RECOGNITION THANKS TO A REFINED VERSION: VARIETAL PERFUMES AND A SUSTAINED MOUTH, FULL OF TASTE AND DEPTH. ALSO THE CRISIO

'15 PROVIDES AN APPROPRIATE SHOW OF COMPLEXITY AND SUBSTANCE, YET MISSING A SMIDGEN OF ACIDIC CONTRAST.

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di Jesi has also become a sought after destination. In the list of "naturalized" Marche citizens we find names such as Corrado Dottori in La Distesa, Pietro Lavelli in Il Pozzetto, Giulia Fiorentini in Di Giulia, Massimo Palmieri and Pascale Marquet with Tenuta San Marcello and the four partners of Ca’ Liptra.

Among the new arrivals, we also find Alessandro Fenino and Silvia Loschi partners in work and life. Their story of "reverse immigration" sees him hailing from Milan and she from Brescia working as marketing manager, ended up living in Maiolati Spontini, where they manage Pievalta, Baron Pizzini's Marche outpost (this year the Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico San Paolo Reserve 2016 won the Tre Bicchieri in our guide).

«My first trial harvest in the Marche – recalls Alessandro – was 18 years ago, then followed my definitive move here. At first it was not easy, mostly because I had to talk about Verdicchio with the locals with my Milanese accent. Not too credible. Add to this that I started following biodynamic

regimen at a time when it was still considered madness.» Pievalta, after years of Demeter certification, last year joined the French Biodyvin association. «A double satisfaction – says Alessandro – because it's the brand to which the major French biodynamic companies belong (think Romanée-Conti, Ed.). Not an easy one to be part of: in addition to the management of vineyards and cellars (use of biodynamic compounds; copper under 3kg per year, attention to the Maria Thun calendar, Ed.), wine is also judged in the expression of its territory. And knowing that the French have chosen us also for the very dear to them concept of terroir, can only make us even more proud». The Castelli di Jesi terroir that is focusing a lot on organic farming, especially in recent years. «Certainly the generational change has accelerated this process – continues Alessandro – In the last 18 years on the field and as a "foreigner" I've actually observed the entire evolution: when I arrived there were three of us doing organic, now it's difficult to find those who don't».

But attention to the environment

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CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. V. IL CANTICO FIGURA RIS. ’15 - ANDREA FELICI APIRO (MC) - ANDREAFELICI.IT THE RARE ELEGANCE OF ITS SCENTS, THE SUMPTUOUS MINERALITY, THE ENERGY OF THE SIP: ONLY SOME OF THE CHARACTERISTICS THAT MAKE IL CANTICO DELLA FIGURA RISERVA '15 ONE OF THE BEST WHITES OF ITALY. AS WELL AS ONE OF THE MOST REGULAR, GIVEN THE IMPRESSIVE SEQUENCE OF TRE BICCHIERI GARNERED. DELLA

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. PODIUM ’16 GIOACCHINO GAROFOLI CASTELFIDARDO (AN) - GAROFOLIVINI.IT THE PODIUM '16 IS A TRUE AND PRECIOUS JEWEL OF FINESSE, MEASURE AND COMPLEXITY: THE OLFACTORY FRAMEWORK ATTRACTS FOR ORANGE FLORAL MEMORIES, MEDICINAL HERBS, WITH BALSAMIC AND MINERAL ECHOES. A GREAT TEST THAT IS WORTH TRE BICCHIERI RECOGNITION. CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. SAN PAOLO RIS. ’16 PIEVALTA MAIOLATI SPONTINI (AN) - BARONEPIZZINI.IT THE VERDICCHIO SAN PAOLO '16 IS ANIMATED BY A ROCKY VERVE, BOTH FOR THE MINERAL MATRIX OF ITS AROMAS, AND FOR ITS TASTE. A WINE OF UNCONTROLLABLE ENERGY THAT WILL BE PRESUMIBLY A WONDER OF ARTICULATED COMPLEXITY IN A FEW YEARS, ONCE THE FURY OF ITS YOUTH WILL HAVE WANED, BUT IT'S ALREADY WORTHY OF THE HYPERION OF ITALIAN WHITES.

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. V. V. ’16 UMANI RONCHI OSIMO (AN) - UMANIRONCHI.COM IL VECCHIE VIGNE '16 BRINGS HOME THE WINERY''S LATEST TRE BICCHIERI: WITH A VARIEGATED NOSE OF FLOWERS AND HAZELNUT FOLLOWED BY AN EXPANSIVE, ENVELOPING MOUTH WITH A LONG FINISH.

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is not the only thing that's changed: many winemakers have transformed from being grape growers to producers and consequently there are many more wineries, but smaller ones, as Alessandro explains: «When we started, with 27 hectares, we were considered tiny; the others were mostly large groups, where the grapes of the little ones converged. Today we are practically giants, in the midst of many small artisan businesses. The reason for this is simple: what for the grandparents was considered a hobby, for the new generations has now become a profession. The young people believed in it, aiming to complete the supply chain». Consequently, the way of relating to others has also changed: «Today we know that the Consortium is not a third party that takes decisions: we are the Consortium. Therefore, the idea of participation and comparison has matured, both in bigger and smaller companies. If once we looked at each other with suspicion, today we have entered the era of dialogue in which the success of the individual is considered a success of the territory. There is a desire to really stay in it».

5 VERDICCHIO FOR 5 DISHES BY A WINELOVER CHEF Andrea Tantucci, chef of the Trattoria Gallo Rosso in Filottrano (AN) (trattoriagallorosso.it), tells us about 5 dishes from his kitchen with "his" 5 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, made by small producers who have a special place in his heart.

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Raviolo di pecora «For this ravioli filled with lamb w use the meat of free range lamb bred by Doriano Scivè. Lamb, in the High Maceratese, is widely used in the kitchen. Seasoning: butter and Parmigiano ».

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. San Paolo Ris. '15 - Pievalta Maiolati Spontini (AN) baronepizzini.it «It has excellent flavor and acidity to accompany a structured and fatty dish.

Better still, the millesimato 2013».

Coniglio lesso con guanciale e olive «Widespread dish in the countryside: rabbit in aromatic broth, served with the aroma of wild fennel. It's essential to start from excellent ingredients».

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Le Oche '17 - Fattorie San Lorenzo Montecarotto (AN) fattoriasanlorenzo.com Pairing locally, with a wine that has already matured a year in the bottle.

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Trippa alla Canapina «The tripe is stewed, braised with wine and tomato: typical of Jesi, an area of rope makers who worked with hemp and ate this dish enriched with marjoram, lemon zest and pecorino ».

Extra Brut Nature M. Cl. '15 - Peruzzi Monte Roberto (AN) spumantebio-peruzzi.it «Rigorous wine, 100% Verdicchio. Excellent with the flavor and aroma of the dish».

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THE ENFANT PRODIGE Certainly, Riccardo Baldi has a great desire to be in the thick of it: born in 1990, he has been making wine for 10 years. He is what is called an enfant prodige of viticulture. He's not from a family of wine producers: the first vines came in 1992.

His father and his uncle purchased them, but just for pleasure. Then, however, when Riccardo started working at 18, the game became more serious and in just a few years the name of his winery – La Staffa – went around the world and was mentioned in the main wine guides. The place is Staffolo, in the Ancona hinterland south of the Esino river, a village of just 2,000 inhabitants, where there are as many as 20 active wineries and as many winegrowers. Today La Staffa has 12 hectares of organic vineyard (purchased bit by bit from neighbours), whose average age is 35 years: Riccardo, on the other hand, is still under 30.

«When I started making wine, I had just enrolled in Economics university – he tells us – I didn't know what I would do later, but I knew that whatever my job was going to be, I certainly wanted to get my hands 5 dirty, do something firsthand, leave a foot-

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Oca cotta nel Verdicchio Also published on Gambero Rosso last month: «A dish we always make; in winter we use duck. Poultry is quite widespread here: it's braised in the oven, with Verdicchio».

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Rincrocca '15 - la Staffa Staffolo (AN) - vinilastaffa.it «It is a Riserva of the same winery that makes Verdicchio which we use to cook with: here it acts like a red wine, perfectly».

Arrosto bastardo di pollo «Recipe taken from a local manuscript of the year 1700: chicken is first boiled, then sautéed in a pan with rosemary, lard, citrus zest and cooked wine».

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Cl. Passolento Ris. '15 - la Marca di San Michele - Cupramontana (AN) lamarcadisanmichele.com «Comes from the classic production area of Verdicchio: very full and round, but with nice acidity and a precise spicy scent that plays very well with the dish»..

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print. Viticulture was all these things put together, plus it represented the perfect balance between the natural product and human ingenuity. Since then, thanks to the recklessness of my 20 years, I have never stopped». Today, in fact, Riccardo is in charge of the vineyard, the cellar, attending trade fairs, curating commercial relations. His commitment is constant and embraces every phase of the process. His desire to experiment is even stronger: spontaneous fermentations, use of steel and cement for ripening, parcel harvests are his playing field. All self-taught and without other experiences outside La Staffa, except for some important encounters along the way. «I certainly can't forget my two putative fathers. One is Lucio Canestrari of Fattoria Coroncino who gave me 30 years (his!) of experience and revealed the secrets of the trade. The other is oenologist and consultant Umberto Trombelli, who gave me the scientific training necessary to read wines and understand what should be mine». If, however, we ask him if he has yet to find that "definitive wine", the answer speaks volumes about the maturity that the boy has achieved in these years: «What's the saying? 'The best wine is always the one coming from the next harvest'. Today I could say that the one that comes closest to my idea of Verdicchio is the Riserva 2016 Rincrocca: a sapid, mineral wine, with great finesse, but at the same time fragrant. However, I remain of the opinion that a great territory or a great winemaker are not enough to make a great wine. We need harvests upon harvests on our shoulders and lots of experimentation».

Today he stands at ten. For everything else, time and desire are there to stay.

THE OENOLOGIST’S POINT OF VIEW The thread of this journey leads us to Serra de' Conti and allows us to understand how the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, today, is also a community effort: big

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names and new producers working side by side to bring value to their wine and their territory. Not that there aren't rivalries and different schools of thought, but today, probably, the desire to give this wine what it deserves is stronger.

Giacomo Mattioli is the young and talented winemaker of Umani Ronchi, one of the iconic wineries of the Marche viticulture: «Along with Beppe Caviola, this is where I practiced and acquired my apprenticeship – he tells us – and little by little, as a laboratory aid I became the oenologist of the winery». His love for wine comes from afar, from his grandparents who used to confer their grapes to cooperative wineries. With the birth of Poderi Mattioli – the winery, strongly desired by his brother Giordano – Giacomo also became the family consulting oenologist. Nine harvests were enough to give great prestige to the cellar and to make the Verdicchio of the Mattioli house a cult of the territory (Tre Bicchieri for the Verdicchio dei Castelli of Jesi Classico Superiore Ylice 2016).

Giacomo is, therefore, in a privileged position: with a clear vision of the Verdic-

chio universe and of the confrontation between old and new generations. «Cellars like Umani Ronchi, but also Garofoli or Villa Bucci, were forerunners, pioneers for the market and examples for everyone else. Today, what I see here is great activity and a lot of comparison. There is a desire to do and solve old historical problems of the denomination: from the price that's

still too penalizing, to too much confusion in the disciplinary regulations. And then, if there's one thing I've learned, it's that you should never rest on your laurels and feel like you've made it». Low profile and looking forward: that's how the great marathon runners win. And the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi certainly is just that.

«A WELL AGED AND VERSATILE WINE, PERFECT FOR THE WINE LIST» It is the longest-lived Italian white grape variety, along with Fiano and Trebbiano. Not a small peculiarity, for those who have to "build" a restaurant's wine list. If in the past, in fact, white wines were more skewed towards vintage wines, now the trend – especially for Verdicchio – is buying vertically. In our wine list, at Il Pagliaccio, there are the great classics of the area, such as Bucci and Umani Ronchi, but there is no lack of new generations that we keep under constant observation to understand what evolution their wines will have over time. Another interesting aspect is pairing.

Being very versatile, we offer it both for the aperitif and to be enjoyed during the meal: from fish to white meats. What I've noticed is that consumers, today more than a few years ago, come to the table knowing about this wine, they know it. And even foreigners have already had the opportunity to hear about it or come upon it on their Italian tasting itinerary. Maybe they don't know where to place the region it comes from, but that's where we come into play.

– Matteo Zappile, Restaurant Manager head sommelier at Il Pagliaccio a Roma

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES

LUIGI TAGLIENTI TRADITION AND AVANT-GARDE "I love to re-design the characteristics of what's already established: unknown flavours that are at the same time reminiscent of the past".

This is how Luigi Taglienti presents himself, one of the most original high-ranking Italian chefs: one of the few who elaborates his original idea of cuisine made of classicism and vision, of impossible combinations, who still works on that play of acidity and contrasts, and owning a deep knowledge of culinary techniques and substance.

As revealed in his dishes.

Training under Ezio Santin and Giorgio Chiesa at Delle Antiche Contrade (Cuneo) balances the experiences with Cracco and his esteem for Bottura WHERE LUME Milan - via G. Watt, 37 +390280888624 - lumemilano.com POINTS IN THE 2019 GUIDE Cuisine 54 Wine cellar 17 Service 17 Bonus 1 Total 89 OPENED IN 2016

by Stefano Polacchi – portrait by Aurea – photos by Alberto Blasetti

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RECIPES

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SCAMPO scampi in sea urchin millefeuille, tomato, basil A journey around scampi and their nobility: elegant, wild, arrogant. Just barely touched by the heat, protected by a wafer, pesto and tomato. Its double with honey and embers, and a bisque. Beside it a "reasoned" hazard with pajata, intestines

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RECIPES

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MUSETTO DI VITELLO veal head, oyster cream, fruit mustard, chickpeas and black truffle

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A revised ancient preparation: cooking in Franciacorta, cucumber and sweet mustard.

A playful siege with oyster cream, seared veal head confetti, chickpeas and purslane.

The "batsoà 2.0" (a preparation of the langarola area based on pig's foot) closes with a cucumber and kiwi consommé

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RECIPES

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PIXEL GUSTATIVO Gustatory pixel: Garcinia and herbs, with iodine nuances Garcinia and herbs, iodized nuances: a smoky trace, fruit and vegetables, finally herb leaves. Abstract yet concrete, in a succession of sensations and contrasts.

Aside: a borage leaf and a drop of coconut foam

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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Michela Becchi, Giuseppe Carrus, Luca Cesari, Stefano Polacchi, William Pregentelli, Loredana Sottile PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Aurea, Alberto Blasetti, Jeroen Hanselaer (cover), Alessandro Naldi GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class PubblicitĂ SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso and are registered trademarks belonging to Gambero Rosso S.p.A. GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2019.

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June 2019

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