Wine Travel Food n.86

YEAR 20 N. 86 - JUNE 2015

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

®

www.gamberorosso.it

• DESTINATION ETNA • ANTEPRIME BAROLO 2011 • SULTANO, SICILIAN MASTERCHEF

SANGIOVESE DI ROMAGNA

HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT CELITA RAVAIOLI - PODERI DAL NESPOLI

a tavola

28

COVER STORY 28 | Sangiovese Specialists; Poderi dal Nespoli, the winery and the cru, embody the history of Sangiovese di Romagna.

23-year tasting, exclusively for Gambero Rosso

WINE 34 | Barolo The 20th edition of Nebbiolo Prima in Alba, the anteprima tasting of Barolo 2011, 2009, and Roero 2012 44 | Best Buys: Sicily’s white surprises From the island region famous for reds, top whites under 10₏

june 2015 2 JUNE 2015

48

34

“Ah me, so wine lives longer than miserable man. So let us be merry.

Wine is life.”

Petronius (Satyricon 34)

44

57

FOOD

NEWS & MORE

57 | Chefs share their recipes. Ciccio Sultano - new Sicilian cucina Meals at the Duomo bring together the colors and culture of multi-faceted Sicily

4 | Editorials 6 | News 10 | Events/Gambero Rosso Experience 16 | Street Food/Genoa 18 | Wine of the month 20 | Twitter dixit 21 | Italians abroad: Giovanni Passerini in Paris 22 | 3Bicchieri3Forchette: Ilario Vinciguerra 24 | Wine&Design: Fuksas 26 | Pairing Lab/Salads 64 | Letter from Paris

TRAVEL 48 | Etna. The salt of the volcano, the sweetness of the sun Etna’s unique agricultural properties have aroused the world’s curiosity. Wine dominates the territory, alongside increasingly interesting food and farming.

3 JUNE 2015

EDITORIAL

THE ALLURE OF THE UNFAMILIAR Right now, fascination with the unknown is one of the crucial factors influencing wine drinkers. From Rome to Tokyo, wine bars are seeing growing curiosity about new wines, new styles, and territories less familiar to the public. The exploration of indigenous varieties is in full swing. Walking on the cobblestones of Rome last week I found three bars offering, by the glass, wine from Carica l’Asino grapes – a very little-known indigenous variety that literally translated means Load up the Donkey.

Forgetting about fashion and some overkill, this interest in the unfamiliar is pushing the market to explore and widen the wine-drinking panorama. The hope is – and we say this as hardened consumers – that this trend will have a calming effect on the rising prices of certain wines that are far more prestigious. Orange wines and spumante from the most disparate varieties are in demand, although not all are appealing. The better-known territories are also seeing a shift in tastes. In Piedmont, for example, attention is moving towards wines from the northern zone, to ex-

quisite and accessible nebbiolo bottles such as Carema, Boca, and even Bramaterra. In Tuscany, specifically in Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino is in the spotlight now, although in the past it was often seen as the unlucky little brother. Still on the subject of sangiovese, one zone in particular, Romagna, has a lot to say and has made important progress during the last few years. For those who are looking for wines that are flavorful, have lively acidity and go well with food, this part of the region has a lot of interesting wines to offer, and good eating to pair them with. We dedicate our cover story this month to a deep vertical tasting of Il Nespoli produced by Poderi Dal Nespoli. Moreover, with friends, we held a blind tasting that included a Sangiovese di Romagna Vigne dei Boschi, Poggio Tura 2010. It stood out over a dozen of Tuscan sangiovese labels also in the tasting and it was surely the least expensive of the group.

Lorenzo Ruggeri

4 JUNE 2015

trebicchieri

2015

Special edition Milano expo 2015 10 taStinG eventS inSide Milano expo at the Italian Wine Pavilion curated by Fiera Verona Vinitaly

expert

room

JUlY saturday 18 sunday 26

16:30-18.00 Nicola Frasson 17:30-19.00 Giuseppe Carrus

Convivium Convivium

aUGUSt saturday 8 friday 28

17:30-19:00 Lorenzo Ruggeri 17:30-19.00 Eleonora Guerini

Convivium Convivium

SepteMBeR saturday 12 20:00-21:30 Marco Sabellico friday 25 17:30-19.00 Gianni Fabrizio

SympoSium Convivium

octoBeR thursday 15 thursday 29

SympoSium Convivium

17:30-19.00 Eleonora Guerini 17:30-19.00 Gianni Fabrizio

>

the events, dedicated exclusively to wines awarded Tre Bicchieri in the Vini d’Italia 2015 guide, will take place in the pavilion tasting room: 10 guided tastings (in italian and english) led by expert wine journalists from Gambero Rosso

www.gamberorosso.it

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NEWS

STOPPHUBBING: THE HASHTAG AGAINST CELL PHONES. Using a cell phone at the table is forbidden, but, for now, only in a few places.

BOBBY FLAY IS THE FIRST CHEF ON THE WALK OF FAME. Why has this star chef won American hearts?

Phubbing is a newly coined word combining ‘snubbing’ and ‘phone’. It refers to the growing habit of forgetting the people around you in favor of your social network or various smart phone applications. The StopPhubbing campaign seeks to restore value to conversation and real communication. A growing movement against the use of cell phones at the table launched in Australia, at the Seibo restaurant, reached Ko, in New York, and finally, Italy, specifically Udine, where the mayor is promoting cell-free zones in bars, pubs, restaurants and hotels. Phubbing is at its most viral in New York, according to the StopPhubbing web page rating, with Los Angeles in second place and London in third. Italy isn’t even on the site’s list. Perhaps the pleasures of food are too important for Italians? To take action against Phubbers you know, visit http://stopphubbing.com 6 JUNE 2015

Not Gordon Ramsay, nor Jamie Oliver nor Italo-American Mario Batali. New Yorker Bobby Flay is the first chef to have a star on the Walk of Fame in Hollywood, surprising many. In the United States, this fifty-something chef is an institution, and many credit him with the rise of the cook-showman. Since 2000, Flay has hosted thirteen TV programs on Food Network, of which eight are still on the air. He has become the face of broadcasting about food. After starting his career in a pizza parlor and in a Baskin-Robbins, he went on to study culinary arts and eventually, in 1991, began work as executive chef in Mesa Grill, then a new southwestern-style restaurant making history in New York. After the success of Mesa, Flay opened restaurants in Atlantic City, the Bahamas, and Las Vegas, as well as launching a hamburger franchise, now with eighteen locations. Hollywood Chamber of Commerce president Leron Gubler said, “We are thrilled to honor our very first culinary star on our fabled Walk of Fame. Bobby Flay has entertained the masses with his culinary expertise and has opened the eyes of food lovers everywhere.”

White wine also promotes heart health THANKS TO CAFFEIC ACID

We’ve known for a while that red wine can have beneficial effects on our health. But white wine, too, has its own special properties, as shown in a recent study coordinated by wine-health expert, Dr. Alberto Bertelli from the University of Milan. In the past, the team has demonstrated that tyrosol, and hydroxy tyrosol, present both in extra-virgin olive oil and white wine, can potentially benefit the cardiovascular system. The new study indicates that the caffeic acid contained in white wine, even in small doses, stimulates the availability of the nitric oxide molecule, with important protective effects on heart and kidneys. Further research in collaboration with the Universities of Torino and Pisa as well as the Ospedale Versilia in Viareggio showed that caffeic acid regulated the expression of genes involved in the protection of the cardiovascular system, even in low doses, such as those found in one or two glasses of wine per day.

El Celler de Can Roca tops the 50 Best Restaurant list.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR THE BROTHERS?

Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca embody the brilliance of avantgarde Spanish cuisine. Their restaurant on the outskirts of Girona, in Catalonia, El Celler de Can Roca, brought the three Spanish brothers to the top of the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants competition, ahead of Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana in Modena and René Redzepi’s Noma in Copenhagen. At the award ceremony, held on June 1 at Guildhall in London, the Rocas presented their next project, La Masia, a tranquil old country house, which will call on all five senses even more deeply during the experience of a meal. Playing a part in this venture is Esperit Roca, their new botanical project also in Girona. It offers a wide variety of distilled products, many of which come from the vast, complex (2,800 different species) garden that surrounds El Celler.

7 JUNE 2015

NEWS

NUDE WOMEN AND ADVERTISING. Does this video encourage you to buy Italian wine?

A FRENCH LAW AGAINST FOOD WASTE: a model for Europe

Presented by the National Assembly, the lower chamber of the French parliament, a new anti-waste measure regulates the distribution of unsold products from supermarkets larger than 400 square meters. As long as it is edible, a product may not be treated as garbage, but must be given to charity. Those who do not respect the rule face a 400 euro fine. Growing out of a petition from Change.org, the law was presented by ex-minister of Food and Agriculture, Guillaume Garot. “Seeing bleach poured into the supermarket dumpsters along with food – that’s scandalous,” commented Garot. He defined the proposed law as the result of three amendments to a law regarding energy. Supermarkets have until July 1, 2016 to make arrangements with charitable associations. Unsold products can be destined for the poor as well as for animal feed and compost. Food waste continues to be a universal issue. Statistics from FAO, from Planetescope, Waste Watcher and many other associations dedicated to the battle against food waste show disturbing data. Between two and six tons of food are thrown away every year, the equivalent of 38 kilos per second. In Europe, the list of food wasters is led by the Netherlands, while Greece is in last place. Italy, with its 149 kilos of discarded food per capita per year, is half-way down the list, a challenge for everyone in an Expo year dedicated to world nutrition.

8 JUNE 2015

Beautiful and seductive female Russian models, wearing only flowers in their long hair, are filmed sinuously moving and gently embracing in a vineyard. For 2 minutes and 48 seconds, the women play at being Bacchus worshipers in the vineyards of Marco Felluga and Volpe Pasini in a video to promote wine from Friuli for the Russian market. The bucolic scene, designed and photographed

by Iris Brosch, is a project – complete with calendar - by Simple, the largest distributor of Italian wine in Russia. The video has triggered reactions on the web concerning the trite use of nude women and wine to promote Italian wine around the world, but Roberto Felluga dismisses this criticism. The elegance of the video, he points out, is comparable to the celebrated Pirelli calendar published every year. Whether the nudity of the four Russian models manages to sell more wine will become evident during the next few months. The video itself is already a huge success on line.

WWW.FERRARITRENTO.IT

THE ITALIAN ART OF LIVING

Venezia, Piazza San Marco ore 4:54

EVENTS

VANCOUVER This sophisticated, demanding market loves Italy

The Tre Bicchieri World Tour 2015 closed triumphantly with two successful events in Canada, in Vancouver on June 1 and in Toronto, on June 4. In the reception hall of the Coast Coal Harbour Hotel in Vancouver, over 500 people came to taste Tre Bicchieri wines and the best labels of more than 60 Italian producers. The tasting, reserved for trade professionals and the operators of the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch (the governmental monopoly that regulates the importation and distribution of alcohol in the province), was then open to wine lovers and collectors who bought over 200 tickets to the event dedicated to the Vini d’Italia guide and to the wines that were given special awards in the 2015 edition. “It is an important market for us,” said Marko Primosic. “Once you establish a relationship with the provincial monopoly, you enter the official listing. We’ve been on it successfully for years. It is a curious, demanding, growing market that is interested in high quality producers. Agents and restaurateurs depend on our presence.”

Among the guests was journalist Barbara Philip, a master of wine and responsible for the European portfolio of the British Columbia monopoly. “Italian wine fascinates consumers,” she told us. “Its percentages grow, and we’re almost at 8% of imports, a value of over 80 million Canadian dollars. But it still can increase a lot. Here we drink more wine every year, and this trend could lead to wine consumption moving ahead of beer.”

The Vancouver event was organized in collaboration with the Italian Chamber of Commerce in Canada-West. “British Columbia is a very promising market, attentive to quality wine,” pointed out Giorgio Puppin, Vancouver Chamber of Commerce head. “Every year the city holds the International Wine Festival at the end of February, beginning of March. It’s an incredible fair that brings together thousands of wine fans and involves hundreds of restaurants all over the province, with a packed calendar of events, dinners and tastings. Wine is culture here.” “We’re at our 37th edition,” echoed Festival director Harry Hertscheg. “Italy will be the central theme of the next edition.” Despite the monopolies, Italy has managed to make its mark on the Canadian market: almost 700 hectoliters were sold in 2014. Tuscany dominates, with Puglia and Campania doing well. Pinot Grigio is on the rise.

10 JUNE 2015

TORONTO

A multi-ethnic city values Italian wine, food and culture Imagine a crystal and steel meteorite crashing into the side of an early Victorianstyle 20th-century building and settling there. That is the impression made by one of the most famous structures in North America, ROM, the Royal Ontario Museum, an icon of modern Toronto.

The new Michael Lee-Chin Crystal wing, designed by David Libeskind, was the setting for the last stop on the Tour, on June 4. Under the imposing life-size reconstruction of the skeleton of a Futalognkosaurus, the 26-meter-long giant herbivore in the Main Lobby, 75 prize-winning producers from every region of Italy poured their wines, over 200 of them, for wine fans and trade professionals.

The food stations arranged

by LCBO, the Liquor Control Board of Ontario, which organized the event, transformed the tasting into a true taste experience. “Toronto is a multi-ethnic city where thousands of cultures and culinary traditions meet,” said Katherine Mellin, owner of Apparition Wines & Spirits.

“Italian traditions are important here. All this resonates on the wine and food scene.

Italian wines are the most popular here in Ontario, 11 JUNE 2015

accounting for 20% of the market.” “Italian wine continues to grow in Ontario,” confirmed Paul Farrell, product manager of LCBO, responsible for European wine, who curates the selection of the up-market range of the regional monopoly. “2014 showed 5% growth over the year before. These are technically excellent wines that express prestigious terroirs, and they are competitive. Their diversity fascinates consumers. Regions like Campania, Abruzzo and Puglia are on the crest of the wave today.

Those who buy Italian want a clean, elegant, traditional wine that pairs well with elegant gourmet meals. They are modern wines technically, but are traditional because as indigenous varieties, they convey their origins. Tuscan reds dominate the scene, but following the success of Pinot Grigio in recent years, other whites have grown too, as shown by the rise of Campania. The popularity of Puglia proves the acceptance of Mediterranean flavors by many consumers.” “It is a complex and regulated market,” explained Antonio Cesari from Brigaldara winery, “but it’s giving us great satisfaction.”

EVENTS

Sélections Mondiales Des Vins Canada CROWNS ITALY

ROYAL AMARONE AND THE CASTLE “We have been coming to North America for 30 years. It is the principal market for our wines. We’re here to tell the story of my family and our love for our land,” says Marilisa Allegrini. The tasting dinner led by Marco Sabellico took place in the beautiful Casa Loma, an English-Gothic-style castle that dominates the heart of Toronto. Amarone was the center of attention, with a vertical tasting from 2010 to 2000, the vintage year that confirmed the excellence of the wine’s evolution. “A wine of great class. Tannins are silky and the finish endlessly long,” adds Bill Haddleton, vice-president of Dionysus Wine & Spirits. Also a winner, Vermentino Solosole from the Bolgheri Poggio al Tesoro winery. Its 2007 is in perfect shape today: a flavorful wine, with elegant tones of aromatic herbs. Coincidentally, movie greats Roberto Benigni and Nicoletta Braschi were also at the castle, in the city to receive honorary degrees from the University of Toronto.

12 JUNE 2015

During the same time period as the Gambero Rosso Tour in Canada, the 22nd edition of the Sélections Mondiales Des Vins Canada took place in Quebec City.

Over 2,000 wines competed, with 65 experts from 35 countries judging. Italy presented over 400 wines and came in first with 13 gold medals. Among the winners were Mater Matuta 2011 from Casale del Giglio and Primitivo 60 anni Old Vines 2011 from Cantine San Marzano, which also won the prize as the best winery in the entire competition in terms of point scores.

2015/2016

worldtour

Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri 2015 OCTOBER

28 october SEOUL

Roadshow

30 october TOKYO

tour 2015/2016

2016

MaRCH

jaNuaRy january

MUNICH

DüSSELDORF SPECIAL EVENT

Vini d’Italia guide

OSLO

PRESENTATION

Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri

STOCKHOLM

NOVEMBER

Vini d’Italia

2 november SHANGHAI trebicchieri

4 november

HONG KONG trebicchieri

19 november MOSCOW

trebicchieri

30 november ZüRICH

Vini d’Italia

DECEMBER

2 december WARSAW Vini d’Italia

12 march trebicchieri march

21 SYDNEY trebicchieri march

23 MELbOURNE

FEBRuaRy

trebicchieri

4 february

aPRIL

CHICAGO

trebicchieri

9 february

NEW YORK

4 april SAO PAULO Roadshow

trebicchieri

May

11 february

SINGAPORE

SAN FRANCISCO trebicchieri

15 february SEATTLE Roadshow

16 may Roadshow

18 may

bANGKOK Roadshow

20 may MANILA

Roadshow

INFO: SEGRETERIA.ESTERO@GAMBEROROSSO.IT INFO: SEGRETERIA.ESTERO@GAMbEROROSSO.IT

may

TOKYO may

bEIJING

SPECIAL EVENT

Vini d’Italia guide PRESENTATION

juNE june

VANCOUVER trebicchieri june

TORONTO trebicchieri june

MOSCOW

SPECIAL EVENT

Vini d’Italia guide PRESENTATION

EVENTS

by Marco Sabellico EVENTS

RUSSIAN IMPASSE but Italy is hopeful Experience, by now, means a global experience. The new Gambero Rosso event format includes distilled spirits and liqueurs, traditional and innovative recipes from celebrated chefs, great extra-virgin olive oil and an exploration of Italian culture. The first trial run, three days in Moscow (June 12, 13, 14) were exciting both for Russians and the Italian producers present at the debut of the Gambero Rosso Experience. During the third edition of the fair, “Taste of Moscow” (20,000 visitors), the Gambero Rosso pavilion represented Italy in the park next to Luzhniki Stadium, on the banks of the Moskva River, facing celebrated Gorky Park. An elegant marquee, 400 square meters, housed taste laboratories, master classes and the tasting stands of

the 50 wine and oil producers who attended the three-day event. The result was a full immersion in Italian life-style, always intriguing for Russian consumers. “This was a unique occasion for entering into the spirit of Italian wine and food.

It wasn’t just a taste experience, but a true cultural experience as well,” said Larisa Korobkova, editor of Vinnaia Karta, at the end of one of our tastings. “We love your country, we visit during our vacations, and when we go home, we like to eat and drink Italian,” explained Elisa Denisova, from the Russian sommelier association. “Unfortunately, there are sanctions on many products, and our unfavourable financial scene is putting the brakes on growth. But we’re sure that all this will pass soon.”

14 JUNE 2015

Unfortunately, a few days ago came the news that Vladimir Putin extended for a year the embargo (declared August 16, 2014, it should have concluded in August 2015) on food products that was a response to the extension of sanctions on Russia. This embargo, according to farmers’ association, Coldiretti, has already halved Italy’s exports to Russia: -51.1% in the first trimester of 2015. Up to now, wine has been excluded from this blacklist.

Nevertheless, the effects, added to the ruble crisis, have already hit the sector. Governmental statistics, Istat, relative to the first trimester speak clearly. Italy exported 10 million euros of wine to Russia in the January-March 2015 period, a figure down 18.7 million euros from the same period in 2014. The

volume exported fell as well, also halving in quantity: from 80,000 hectoliters to 42,000. Wine and food experts and consumers alike are deeply concerned, as they try to see the glass half full. “The fall of the euro against the American dollar is helping to limit the problem,” says Dmitry Fedotov, of the Independent Wine Club, and one of the best known wine critics in the country.”We expect real help from Italy and other European countries to resolve the political problem. This is a big market, a natural outlet for Made in Italy food and wine. It cannot be penalized for much longer.”

Back to the fair. Three days of seminars and master classes, including those dedicated to the producers of Boutique Italian Wineries and to Tre Bicchieri Special Awards from Vini d’Italia 2015. Wine fans, but above all journalists, sommelier and trade operators filled the room.

“The public was attentive and curious, asking thousands of questions, and showing passion and love for our country,” confirmed Luigi Pocaterra, owner of Colline San Biagio, producer of excellent Tuscan wine and extra-virgin olive oil in Carmignano. “This is a market with incredible potential, made up of consumers with attentive and educated palates, one we must absolutely cultivate.”

The tasting of selections of top labels from the Top Italian Wines Roadshow wineries was also a success. One of the best-loved celebrity chefs in Moscow, Valentino Bontempi, enlivened the event.

Originally from Brescia (Lombardy), the star of foodie television programs and author of a series of successful cookbooks, after a long international career, Valentino set up shop in Moscow. He has two well-known restaurants, Bontempi on the Bersenevskaya Embankment

and the innovative and busy Pinzeria nearby. For A Taste of Moscow, the chef presented the dishes from his Pop Up Restaurant in The Perfect Match workshop. Participants paired the tasting wines with pinse (a particular type of pizza), filled pasta, and main dishes of meat and fish.

Gambero Rosso also participated in events in the Olivia & Oliver series, a mini-course of extra-virgin olive oil tastings from the best labels chosen by the Oli d’Italia guide.

This was a revelation for the Moscow public. They were enchanted by the Mediterranean fragrances of our products.

The experience closed wonderfully with an event dedicated to Italian spirits and mixed drinks: Mixology, Taste & Learn. We presented the Milano Torino (alias Americano) and the famous Negroni with its fascinating story to a attentive and amused audience. They didn’t know that even Lenin drank it during his visits to Florence between 1908 and 1910, seated at a table of the Giubbe Rosse café.

15 JUNE 2015

STREET FOOD

by Pina Sozio

GENOA LIGURIA ON THE GO In the heart of the renowned seaport, we sample the marvels of street food and its oldest traditions focaccia, pasqualine, farinata, fried baccalà, cima and whitebait fritters In a land squeezed between the sea and the mountains, which often rebels against human abuse, Genoa is one of the Mediterranean’s key cities: fascinating, fragile, and ancient, its culinary traditions are still vibrant, and street food reigns.

The rites are faithfully carried out in the friggitorie: from the wood-burning ovens come focaccia, pasqualine, vegetable tarts, farinata lined 16 JUNE 2015

up next to panizza, cuculli, and fritters of whitebait and baccalà. In the historic center, in the narrow streets by the port, these eating places were once the haunts of dockworkers and manual laborers. Today they are favored by students, office workers, tourists. Friggitoria Carega is a hallowed example of this sort of shop, open since 1941. Two steps from the famed Aquarium, it specializes in

fried fish and excellent focaccia. Another classic is the Antica Sciamadda which, besides street food, has a few cooked dishes ready to eat, such as meatballs, tripe and fried baccalà. It’s a truly typical place for a quick lunch during a walk around the historic center.

If you prefer to eat comfortably seated, but still sample the great Genoese standards, there are some sure bets. At the Molo Vecchio, visit Antica Osteria di Vico Palla for minestrone, squid and variations on baccalà.

The century-old Bruxaboschi has been serving true Genoese country cooking for five generations. Inspired by the 19th century book, Cuciniera Genovese

by Giovanni Battista Ratto, they serve la cima (stuffed veal) and mixed fried vegetables. To move away from tradition and sample contemporary buzz, find the first floor of the Palazzo Imperiale in historic Genoa.

The building is considered a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, but it is also the home of Les Rouges, a cocktail bar and restaurant owned by Jonatan, Yoel and Benny Abarbanel. The three redheaded brothers have opened an exceptionally beautiful place for hearing live music and consuming memorable cocktails, aperitifs or top-quality modern dishes.

Addresses Antica Friggitoria Carega via di Sottoripa, 113r | tel. 010 2470617 Antica Sciamadda via San Giorgio, 14r | tel. 010 2468516 Antica Osteria di Vico Palla vico Palla, 15r | tel. 010 2466575 Bruxaboschi via F. Mignone, 8 | loc. San Desiderio | tel. 010 3450302 Les Rouges p.zza Campetto, 8 | tel. 010 2464956 | www.lesrouges.it

17 JUNE 2015

WINE OF THE MONTH

Lombardy’s steep slopes Valtellina Superiore 2012, Dirupi 10,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 13 euros The Valtellina wine world is undergoing a profound remake, thanks to the young and talented.

The enthusiasm and passion for wine we see in Davide Fasolini and Pierpaolo di Franco is catching. The two Dirupi leaders are among the newest and most authoritative voices in the territory. They have found value in old vineyards clinging to steep terraces. Dirupi is the Italian word for the extreme slopes where their grapes grow. Their work involves a careful study of diversity in grape varieties.

Low yields and high-density planting complete the picture. Production numbers are still at hobby level, but the quality attained during the short lifetime of the winery, founded in 2003, is very high.

The style of the wines focuses on marked fruity fragrances and a tasting verticality that reflects the steepness of the vineyards of origin.

Valtellina Superiore Dirupi ’12 displays fruit aromas along with scents of wet earth and gentian.

The palate is authoritative, with harmonious tannins supported by fresh acidity. This month instead of the usual dish, we’re suggesting a piece of music to listen to while sipping Dirupi ’12, a choice suggested by Davide Fasolini: “It suits With a Little Help from my Friends, as sung by Joe Cocker.

2012 was a vintage year that turned disastrous after a hailstorm unlike any we’d ever seen in our lives. We were deeply upset, but our friends and our vines (also our friends) came through for us.

The friends helped us bounce back, and the vines bounced back themselves.”

18 JUNE 2015

TWITTER dixit

Julien Miquel #Wine @JMiquelWine A wine with pride..

Expo Milano 2015

@Expo2015Milano The official length of the longest pizza in the world is 1.595 m! Well done guys!

Neal Martin

@nealmartin According to US universities, Earth is entering a new extinction phase. Good excuse to open some decent wine then.

James Suckling

@JamesSuckling Know the differences between Chianti Classico and other subregions in Chianti? Watch the video to find out.

Decanter

@Decanter Rioja festival goers soaked in 130,000 litres of red wine.

20 JUNE 2015

ITALIANS AROUND THE WORLD

After Rino, here comes Céros Giovanni Passerini in Paris

We last saw him about a year and a half ago, as he celebrated the last seating in Rue Trousseau, where he had enlivened the bistro scene in France for five years. That was January, 2014, and he said that the experience had used up its excitement. There were many reasons, but the main one was that Parisian dining experience had leveled out to a standard that, although high, didn’t leave the public much choice.

Prix fixe menus prevailed, as did an informal atmosphere, minimalist but similar décor, attention to vegetables and seasonality. Often the sources for ingredients were the same. Alain Passard was the universal model and mentor for those who had worked in his kitchen at some point. as well as for those who absorbed his influence from afar.

Too many points of reference were shared, above all for a client base like Parisians – food-focused, omnivorous, cultivated and willing to give a chef carte blanche.

Passerini said, “The moment to reinvent the trattoria has come, but I want to do it my way.” The result is not a menu like those we are used to seeing in traditional Italian restaurants, but something different – a menu that can be made to measure for each table, with established dishes and products, of course but used differently. “Imagine meat ready to cook, but different parts go for different dishes. Each table can have a separate, personalized experience.” The menu is small: two antipasti, two first courses and two main dishes. The tasting menu is a series of five or six dishes, no more. Other offerings depend on what’s in the market and how much of it there is – matching ingredients, dishes and table becomes a game. “Let’s take

duck as an example.

It’s sitting there, warm, with its juices, all ready to go. If a table likes the idea, we can prepare it, and as it cooks until the meat is juicy and the skin crisp, I’ll send out an antipasto with duck innards, or I’ll prepare a meat sauce. But the duck could also be on the surprise menu or become the filling for stuffed pasta.”

Giovanni goes on, “True quality can only exist on a very small scale.” That means not a single menu, the same for everyone, but a limited quantity of products and only those that are really the best. “I want to open the kind of place that I would want to go to, and not just now and then.”

A rethinking of the wine list echoes this view: narrower, but much deeper. Few wines, but many vintages. He won’t change his style in the kitchen – never excessively transforming his ingredients, but staying natural. “I wouldn’t close the door on other things, if they’re necessary to the dish, such as spherification techniques. Even when you’re planning a single dish served for the whole table, rather than individual plating, you can be very creative, Everything starts with the cooking process. You can be innovative without bringing out single plates: it’s just less dramatic.”

The opening is scheduled for next winter, probably in January. “It will be a family restaurant. I want that atmosphere to be strong. It must have the welcoming feel, the atmosphere and the intimacy of a family restaurant. It’s that unmistakable artisanal sensation that I like.”

Antonella De Santis collaborated 21

JUNE 2015

TRE BICCHIERI X TRE FORCHETTE

ILARIO VINCIGUERRA

A foodie’s paradise next to the gate Eight minutes. That’s Salvatore. “Here, freshhow long it takes to reach ness and minerality go Ilario and Marika Vinhand in hand. The escaciguerra’s restaurant in role puree amalgamates Gallarate from the Mieverything into a flavorlano Malpensa airport, ful whole.” With tender, even with traffic. It is crisp suckling pig, goose one of the best Naplesliver scallops and lemon, inspired restaurants in her choice is Taurasi the country, thanks to a Vigna Quintodecimo chef who worked around Riserva. “Here we need the world before landtannins, soft and elegant ing here.Everything is ones, to temper the foie comfortable, elegant, gras sensation. This label and functioning to perhas the right structure fection. Outdoor space and body to stand up to is lovely and service imthe meat.” And alongside peccable. The wine cellar a dessert called “L’oro di offers more than 1,000 Napoli”, Naples’ gold, a labels in a two-section homage to Neapolitan list. The first part, conpastiera, she suggests tinually evolving, is made Diamante made by Tasup of small, young winca d’Almerita di Tasca eries. The second section to enhance the notes is dedicated to wineries of candied fruit, or the that have written Italian toastier tones of Dom Px and world wine history. of Bodegas Toro Albalà, Marika, who rules in the a Pedro Ximénez that Via Roma, 1 | Ingresso Auto Via Tenconi 3 front of the house says, defies time. To follow Gallarate (VA)| tel. 0331 791597 “Clients that travel a lot a wine’s evolution, we www.ilariovinciguerra.it want something new, noted a depth of vintage something novel. They crus from Produttori del want to experience both premium and typical wines, Barbaresco and from Fiorduva made by Marisa Cuoand to understand the differences between the bottles mo. Among the small producers, we spotted Gianatti they have just tasted.” Her top Champagne labels inin Valtellina, Masseria Frattasi near Benevento, and clude Bedel (specialist in pinot meuniere), Albert Le great houses like Coche-Dury in Meursault. The dream Brun and Aubry. The choice of wines from Campabottle, its grapes harvested in the year of the armistice nia is, obviously, very wide. With the chef ’s artisanal that ended the Second World War: Petrus 1945, in a spaghetti, topped with anchovy essence and smoked magnum format. escarole, Marika suggests Fiano Trentenare from San Lorenzo Ruggeri collaborated

22 JUNE 2015

WINE & DESIGN

THE SPLENDID TABLE The Fuksas: design’s power couple

After decades of memorable architecture and design for the Fuksas, the best project is always the next one Sleek lines, multi-textured materials, beautiful objects that become useful art, table design transformed into architectural compositions – with all this, the dining table becomes a space for contact, for life itself. These concepts are deftly expressed by Doriana and Massimiliano Fuksas, whose studio uses the most experimental language of international architecture. Since 1990, the working collaboration of this married couple has produced celebrated design projects, such as the popular collection for housewares manufacturer Alessi. We had the pleasure of meeting the couple, and they swiftly outlined the winning ingredients of their approach.

Doriana and Massimiliano, you have a long history of projects and important works, including the direction of major shows like the seventh edition of the Biennale di Venezia. How and when did you enter the world of design?

We founded Fuksas Design in 1997, with our first designs for interiors. More and more, our clients need something created especially for their purposes. This is the greatest act of love for a project, perhaps because it’s the most tiring, since the budget is always reduced as we go along. When we realized that we couldn’t find materials suitable for a project, we began to design them ourselves, and then to produce them with important companies. The work on a building project or an element of design is the same: the first step is a sketch, then you move on to making a model in order to define features and feasibility, just as you do in architecture. It seems paradoxical, but the time required for a design project and for an architectural one are often the same. Here’s an example. To produce the Bea office chair for the Luxy company took almost three years. It was very complex, providing many different positions because it was also aimed at the American market which has different requirements than ours. We showed it for the first time at the Salone del Mobile in 2005, inside ‘our’ Fiera di Milano. It seems incredible, but it took the same amount of time to accomplish these two projects.

When did your collaboration with Alessi begin?

One of our first design collections was "TEA & COFFEE TOWERS" for Alessi in 2003. It felt like working on a sculpture, and that’s how it should feel, because besides being pleasant, both to look at and to handle, it’s the tactile sensation that is important in a cup, a spoon, a coffee pot...

Doriana and Massimiliano Fuksas © Fabio Lovino

24 JUNE 2015

Tea & Coffee Towers collection, 2003 © Riccardo Bianchi Colombina collection, 2007 © Santi Caleca

The Alessi Collections are notable for the use of innovative materials and for objects with clean lines that often seem to suggest natural forms, such as the Colombina Collection where the salt cellar and the tray seem almost like stones from a river. That proves that there’s always a great idea behind it… …an idea that emerges from great curiosity and the will to experiment. Before the Colombina Collection, Alessi had never produced a line of objects in different materials. They were afraid that it wouldn’t please the public. But our heterogeneous series, which combines elements in porcelain with others in melamine, stainless steel or silver, met with unexpected success, especially thanks to the infinite possibilities for combinations that it offered. You can interpret and use it as you like, according to your mood at the moment. It’s the playful aspect that won people over. You can buy whatever you like and as many pieces as you want, improvise, mix forms and colors: it’s a game!

Baby, Alessi Collection, 2011 © Alessandro Milani

large-scale projects. I love to focus on interiors and design collections. We are different, but complementary.

We have in common a passion for architecture and our work.

After so many years of collaboration, work and important projects, who are the Fuksases today?

Through architecture you can explain, tell about your present-day self to those who come after you.

Architects have to give society something more than a functional solution and mere aesthetic pleasure.

Today, the most important thing that architects must do is convey emotions. And this is what we know how to do best.

You have designed many different collections for home and tableware. Are you particularly fond of one? Which best represents you?

Every project represents a unique challenge and a specific context. We like to think that our best project is the next one.

You live and work together, but at the foundation of every future project, there’s always a sharing of ideas. Do you ever disagree? If so, who usually wins?

We have worked together on every project we’ve done for over thirty years. We never argue. Massimiliano likes

www.fuksas.com Stefania Annese collaborated 25

JUNE 2015

PAIRING LAB

drawing by Chiara Buosi SCHIAVA

SALAD P

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

verdicchio

morellino

Salade Nicoise

TREBBIANO D'ABRUZZO CORATINA​ SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

Greek Salad

ITRANA​ SCHIAVA

LUGANA

FIANO FSOAVE

A. A. SAUVIGNON

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

CERASUOLA

Caesar Salad

frappato

morellino

PAIRING

SCHIAVA

FIANO

Orange and olive Salad CIRO ROSATO SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

BIANCOLILLA

Waldorf Salad ossotni

GRECO DI TUFO

intosso

CELLINA DI NARDÒÒ

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA INTOSSO​

Pantesca Salad

frappato

mo

COVER STORY

by Giorgio Melandri photos by Vania Vicino

Sangiovese

Romagna: in a glass of Il N

A osteria and its wine in 1911; a winery in 1929…Poderi dal Nespoli 1929, the winery and the cru, embody the history of Sangiovese di Romagna. A 23-year tasting, exclusively for Gambero Rosso

e Specialists

Nespoli, a terroirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history

29 JUNE 2015

COVER STORY

Alfeo Martini and Fabio Ravaioli

F

abio Ravaioli has a visceral relationship with his land.

When he talks about it, every sentence expresses awareness of a story that goes back generations. “We specialize in this territory,” he likes to say. They truly are specialized in this corner of Romagna, and they have been since 1911 when his grandfather Attilio opened a tavern, a osteria, in Cusercoli. “It was a great success, and the wine my grandfather made in the cellar behind the osteria was also a success,” said Celita Ravaioli. “We bought the grapes in the neighborhood. The wine wasn’t only sold in the osteria, but also in demijohns delivered in an old Fiat. They sold bottles of wine too, recycled champagne-type bottles.” Attilio had a good hand in the winemaking cellar, but above all, he was an infallible grape buyer. “When we sold the osteria in the

1960s, that great experience stayed with the family, the experience with which we had founded the Poderi dal Nespoli in 1929.” This is the magic of this winery, producing many thousands of bottles while staying specialists in the territory, carrying out big projects while remaining interpreters of a coherent, classic style. This also describes the character of Fabio, the winery’s face, an intelligent man who knows how to play with his role as grapegrower, who knows wine deeply and can talk about Poderi dal Nespoli in the right tone, tell the story of his family and its tie with the Bidente Valley. He dresses as no peasant ever did, comes in joking, and places on the table a series of wines that correspond exactly to that territory, point by point. It is his way of being in the world, the pleasure of truth as the soul of relationships and life. A few years 30 JUNE 2015

ago, another Italian wine family – Alfeo and his son Marco Martini, owners of MGM Mondo del vino – joined Ravaioli in the business.

They too are from Romagna and have deep roots in the region. They felt the need to invest in a winery in their own area and bring Romagna’s wines to the world market.

Today Poderi dal Nespoli is a dynamic firm, full of new energy. and recognized, at home and abroad, as an ambassador of the territory.

We traveled through the history of the winery with a vertical tasting of their most ambitious label, Sangiovese Superiore Riserva Il Nespoli, from the 1980s forward. It is a trip around Romagna, an exploration of a style that represents success over the last 30 years, a story of the steps that brought this territory into the modern era, while holding on to the charm of the original.

Celita Ravaioli © Gianluca Camporesi Marco Martini © Gianluca Camporesi

COVER STORY

IL NESPOLI | SANGIOVESE SUPERIORE RISERVA

CHAPTER 1

mouth finds rhythm and power, the tannic weave is dense and open.

A territorial, savage wine, classic and pure.

The 1980s. Romagna discovers Riserva wines.

Very few Romagna wineries bottled their own wine. Territorial tradition preferred the yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own sangiovese, but at the same time, a few pioneers of quality began working on more ambitious wines and new themes. The first Riserva wines appeared. Among the years tasted, 1988 stands out.

Nespoli 1995 | 84

A vintage year with a cold summer that led to late ripening for the grapes. For this reason, Nespoli 1995 was made with a small addition of cabernet sauvignon, to give substance to the sangiovese from high-altitude vineyards. The nose opens with typical vegetal notes, very elegantly evolved, and delicate, still closed-up fruit. In the mouth, it is narrow and long, slightly green in its tannins, elegant in its development on the palate. A dry and delicate finish.

A vegetal Bordeaux, fresh palate, dry tannic structure. Overall, it changes, relaxes. It has a certain elegance, dry and very rhythmic.

At the end, I like it.

Nespoli 1988 | 89

Emilio Placci, Romagnolo enologist, worked with the Ravaioli family, Valerio in particular, during vinification. This 1988, aged in 30- and 50-hectoliter barrels, is a very classic, austere, deep wine, still perfectly healthy. It has freshness and acidity, but above all, extraordinary elegance. It is a sangiovese that has preserved a certain stylistic innocence, a territorial and subtle wine.

Nespoli 1999 | 78

CHAPTER 2

A wine from the hand of Alberto Antonini and very representative of a certain concept of potent, substantial wine, the product of a vintage year that brought many Tuscan enologists to Romagna. Tobacco, spices, still-evident wood, tannic texture lightened by short maceration, and freshness moderated by a winemaking approach that aimed at charm.

The 1990s. Romagna dreams about revolution. Some producers abandon the most classic style.

A small revolution is underway in Romagna, fueled by ambition and new stylistic ideas. New wineries open and the few historic ones consolidate their own positions. Vineyards are planted in modern ways and barrique-aging begins to be commonplace. It is a season for growth and dreams.

CHAPTER 3

A great vintage year for Romagna. Wines are taut and vibrant in general and still full of energy today. Nespoli â&#x20AC;&#x2122;90 has earthy, dark, even spicy and citrusy notes, dense and mature tannins, acidity, and a crisp, powerful finish.

The early 2000s. When territory seems like a detailâ&#x20AC;Ś In the early 2000s, the Romagna world of wine was moving along quickly with its rich, spicy wines. International markets were not yet open, but the stylistic differences finally seemed resolved. Power and substance, fruit and spice, little elegance. Territory was irrelevant.

Nespoli 1993 | 92

Nespoli 2000 | 78

Nespoli 1990 | 88

A mature wine, multi-faceted after it is open to the air. Tobacco, woods, dry grass, and an animal note that lends character. The nose is austere, and alternates elegantly between many discreet notes. The

A wine that reveals the hand of the man who made it: abundant tannins still unbalanced and evident wood. Good acidity comes out from under and brings elegance to the finish in the mouth.

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JUNE 2015

Giorgio Melandri, Gianni Fabrizio, Cielita Ravaioli, Fabio Ravaioli, and Alessandro Rossi participated in the tasting

Poderi dal Nespoli | Civitella di Romagna (FC) | www.poderidalnespoli.com

Nespoli 2002 | 88

Nespoli 2007 | 90

A vintage year characterized by frequent rains. Temperatures in general below the average for the territory delayed ripening, leaving the grapes with shallower tannins and fewer substances lending color and aroma. 2003 was a vintage year in which the agronomist’s care of the vineyard and the age of the vines were determining factors. In general, the sangiovese grapes were shallower and smaller. Many reserve labels were not released. But there were some lovely, elegant surprises, such as this Nespoli 2002, vegetal and mineral, very elegant, still full of energy and chiaroscuro. There are citrusy notes, reminders of undergrowth and licorice. A beautiful surprise.

Despite a hot vintage year, this wine is all about freshness, minerality and tension. Still closed and developing, full of notes that need more time. The palate has rhythm and tension, no useless fillips, and essentiality that gives drinkability and character.

CHAPTER 5

Nespoli today. The synthesis between territory and market.

Since the 2009 vintage, the enologist in charge of the cellar has been Scipione Giuliani, although the reins of the winery for the most important labels are in the hands of Celita Ravaioli, who has always overseen the firm’s vinification. The style of wines is unchanged, but now more attention is paid to an approach suitable for the international market, a good synthesis between the stylistic maturity achieved in the early years of 2000 and the firm’s new entrepreneurial and marketing ambitions. With the arrival of the Martini family, horizons widened markedly.

CHAPTER 4

The 2000 years. Elegance and maturity of style.

Fabio Ravaioli was one of the first to understand that the moment for rich, international-style wines would not last.

In 2004, he brought Beppe Caviola to Romagna with the objective of leading the Poderi dal Nespoli wines to more classic and territorial expressiveness. It was an intuition that gave Nespoli a long run of successes and became a style benchmark for all Romagna.

Nespoli 2009 | 88

Fruit, an elegant palate and a tannic weave that doesn’t encourage hardness. A wine that is elegant from start to finish, flavorful and still fruity on the finish. Still young nevertheless very expressive.

Nespoli 2004 | 90

An uneventful year for weather, very balanced, ideal for sangiovese romagnolo. Nespoli ’04 is an austere, earthy wine, full of flavor, richly detailed, delicate even in its most important notes. Woods, earth, opening out in the mouth, sharp and briny, leather and spices. Everything in harmony, complex and profound.

Nespoli 2010 | 89

Nespoli 2006 | 92

Nespoli 2011 | 88

A cold, complicated vintage year that nevertheless gave minerality and elegant vegetal notes to the most meticulous enologists. An elegant wine, vibrant in the mouth, mineral, expressive and crisp. Ready to drink and well-balanced.

Il Nespoli becomes Sangiovese Superiore Riserva almost as if underlining that stylistic maturity had been achieved. The ’06 is a crisp, open wine, elegant on both nose and mouth. Balsamic, vaguely spicy, floral. Great energy in the mouth, earthy notes on the finish, delicate fruit.

Il Nespoli 2011 is a wonderfully crisp sangiovese that expresses itself in meaty, clean, fresh fragrant fruit. In the mouth, good acidity brings rhythm and dynamism. Tannins are dense and mature, the finish is savory and full of flavor. The style is modern, but the territorial imprint of sangiovese romagnolo is evident.

33

JUNE 2015

ANTEPRIME

by Gianni Fabrizio

BAROLO 2011 LONG LIFE 34 JUNE 2015

Great expectations for the 20th edition of “Nebbiolo Prima” in Alba, the anteprima tasting of Barolo 2011 and 2009, along with Roero 2012. To sum up: after the celebrated 2010 vintage year, here’s another great one, destined to stand up to the next fifteen years in wine cellars

TO THE KING 35 JUNE 2015

A

ANTEPRIME

n excited public of over 100 journalists from around the world gathered to greet King Nebbiolo in Alba, at the court of the new Langa wines (Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero). More than 450 wines were presented: first the Roero labels (2012 and Riserva 2011) and those of Barbaresco Riserva 2010, followed by Barbaresco 2012.

Next came Barolo 2011 (the municipalities of Serralunga dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Alba, Castiglione Falletto e Monforte), then Barolo 2011 from La Morra and all the Riserve di Barolo 2009 bottles. The tasting ended with Barolo from all the other municipalities, or comuni.

After the much-lauded 2010 vintage year, it was interesting to explore the 2011 harvest, to grasp the differences and try for some qualitative evaluation. The chief characteristic of the 2011 year is surely its precocious onset, with vegetation starting off quite early thanks to abundant rains in March along with high temperatures in April. This gave the vines a head start of about 15 days compared to the average in most years. A very hot August led to a weight drop in the grapes, so they reached harvest time without health problems and with a good balance between the components, thanks also to beneficial rains and a temperature drop at the beginning of September.

The result of this weather was a Barolo that, although it didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t achieve the results of 2010, displays mature and exuberant fruit aromas, followed by a palate of medium structure, never too tannic, softened by a good degree of alcohol and balanced by a notable acidic vein. Overall, we can say that 2011 is not a historic year, nor is it destined for endlessly long cellaring, but it is definitely pleasant and balanced. We will be drinking excellent bottles over the next 15 years. From the array of Barolo 2011 (250 labels) we tasted, we chose 30 particularly significant ones, which we subdivided into three categories. In the first group are up-and-coming wineries, not yet wellknown around the world. In the second group are the certainties, that is, the celebrated wineries who have shown up at the top in this vintage year as well. The third group includes our long shots, 10 Barolo bottles which we feel very sure about, in the sense that although today they are still a bit closed or hard, we are convinced that they will develop in a balanced and pleasant way.

The vintages 2009, 2011, 2012 Good performances from Nebbiolo The new vintages of wines based on Nebbiolo from Lange and Roero were presented curing Nebbiolo Prima 2015, that is, Barolo 2011, Barbaresco 2012 and Roero 2012. Moreover, two vintages, 2009 and 2010, Riserve of Barolo and Barbaresco respectively, were brought to the attention of the journalists.

All in all, the 2012 vintage year suffered a bit from competing with the other harvests, in particular 2010 and 2013, but it is definitely a good year. After an initial slowing of vegetation due to the intense and prolonged cold during February, during which there were also major snowfalls, the cycle returned to normal levels and the harvest took place at the normal times. The most striking characteristic of the vintage is probably limited production, due to rain that, during fruitsetting time, led to a consistent reduction in the number of berries.

Nebbiolo-based wines of 2012 have good structure, moderate alcohol and show an overall, pleasant balance. They are less opulent and striking than those of many other years, but are certainly elegant and fresh with the potential of aging well in the bottle.

As for the Barbaresco Riserva, the 2010 is suitable for presenting in this context, thanks above all to its structure and longevity.

In 2009, one of the hottest years registered in the zone in recent times, Barolo Riserva displayed acidity that was not very pronounced and tannins that tended to be a bit dry, impeding perfect taste balance. Therefore, not because of a lack of structure, but because of the already perceptible prevalence of tannins over fruit, this is a characteristic that will increase with time.

36 JUNE 2015

Barolo 2011 The up-and-coming ily in 2003, the winery plus bed and breakfast began to flourish when son Paolo took on an important role. This Le Coste aims firmly at elegance, with a delicately fruity nose and a harmonious and only slightly tannic palate.

Barolo Resa 56 | Brandini

LA MORRA (CN) | www.agricolabrandini.it

Above, a view of the countryside around the Giovanni Manzone winery.

Opening page, the vineyards of Poderi Luigi Einaudi

The selection called Resa 56 is just in its second year of production, after the 2010 version attracted general attention when it was named a Tre Bicchieri in the Vini d’Italia guide. This is one of the highest and breeziest crus of La Morra, with a view over the entire Valle Tanaro. Organically grown, this Barolo combines decent structure and pleasant freshness in a great, fruity, elegant whole.

Barolo Bricco delle Viole | 460 Casina Bric BAROLO (CN) | www.casinabricbarolo.com

Appearing in the Vini d’Italia guide for the first time in 2015, Gianluca Viberti shows off his talents here in a Bricco delle Viole that is pure and floral, with delicate but spicy wood and pleasant freshness. The high altitude of the cru also contributes.

The bottle, too, is special, a Poirinotta, in use in Piedmont for three centuries.

Barolo Perno | Cascina del Monastero LA MORRA (CN) | www. cascinadelmonastero.it

The Grasso family owns nebbiolo vineyards in Annunziata di La Morra and in Monforte d’Alba, the home of this excellent Barolo Perno. The classic approach, aging in large oak casks, lends some rigidity in the early years.

On the nose, blond tobacco and abundant red fruit; the palate is agile, with

Barolo Le Coste di Monforte | Amalia Cascina in Langa MONFORTE D’ALBA (CN) | www.cascinaamalia.it

Bought by the Boffa fam37

JUNE 2015

tannins still edgy. Fruity pulp gives roundness.

Barolo Fossati | Dosio

LA MORRA (CN) | www.dosiovigneti.com

Founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Dosio, the property belongs to the Lanci family today and is led by enologist Marco Dotta. This Fossati will be released after a year of aging more than the rules call for, although it is already balanced and drinkable thanks to the soft tannins of the 2011 harvest and the fruity fullness with raspberry sensations predominating.

Barolo Badarina | Michele Reverdito LA MORRA (CN) | www.reverdito.it

Most of this winery’s numerous vineyards are in the municipality of La Morra, but this prestigious Badarina cru is an exception, located in Serralunga d’Alba.

It expresses the usual Serralunga power, slightly mitigated by the softness and ripeness of the 2011 harvest grapes. Aromas of red berry jam and generous spicy notes increase the aromatic complexity.

Barolo Monvigliero | Morra Diego VERDUNO (CN)

This is a first appearance for this small winery

ANTEPRIME in Verduno, founded in 2009. Besides an excellent Pelaverga, it releases a Barolo from the most celebrated cru of the municipality, laden with spicy and pastoral aromas, where medicinal herbs dictate the olfactory rhythm. Delicate tannins in the mouth do not weigh down structure that is essential but not skimpy.

Barolo Ornato | Palladino

SERRALUNGA D’ALBA (CN) | www.palladinovini.com

A new generation can count on the handsome building in the heart of Serralunga d’Alba, where Barolo has made its home for over a century. From this cru, made famous around the world by Pio Cesare, come only a few thousand bottles of a Barolo with powerful but not drying tannins that enjoy the embrace of rich,

pulpy fruit. A fine, especially balsamic nose.

Barolo Gattera | Alessandro Veglio

LA MORRA (CN) | www.risveglioinlanga.it

Alessandro follows in his Uncle Mauro’s footsteps while respecting his own sensibility and experiences since 2008. The winery is small, suited for housing the French barrels used for aging Barolo. The nose is rich in ripe red berry aromas along with sweet spices.

In the mouth, tannins are slightly enriched by the contribution of wood.

Barolo La Serra | Alberto Voerzio

LA MORRA (CN) | www.albertovoerzio.com

The first critical applause is arriving for Alberto Voerzio who began winegrowing activities very young, in 2006. Some of it aged for two years in new barriques (25%), this La Serra offers up intense and ripe fruity notes enriched by measured spicy sensations.

Tannins on the palate develop in a relaxed and soft way, with admirable persistence, sustained by a pleasant acidic tension.

A view of the Diego Morra winery; above, Gianluca Viberti of 460 Casina Bric.

Right, Giacomo Revello and, on their terrace, his sons Lorenzo and Carlo, from the Fratelli Revello winery

38 JUNE 2015

Barolo 2011 The certainties Barolo Acclivi | G.B. Burlotto

VERDUNO (CN) | www.burlotto.com

Made from a blend of grapes from vineyards in the Verduno municipality, Acclivi has often won Tre Bicchieri awards. The 2011 is another top version. Its nose opens with lightly peppery aromas, classic for the Verduno comune. Made in a traditional manner, the wine displays tannins that, sustained by the fullness of the fruit, give a major contribution to overall richness. Long persistence.

Barolo Sorì Ginestra | Conterno Fantino

MONFORTE D’ALBA (CN) | www.conternofantino.it

This winery, in the forefront for decades, has managed to interpret the early 2011 vintage year majestically.

The wine expresses the usual mouth-filling richness with dense, harmonious tannins balanced by soft, pulpy fruitiness. The nose contributes to the freshness of the whole thanks to the balance between the notes of ripe red berries and the stimulating balsamic hints.

Barolo Bricco Manzoni | Silvio Grasso LA MORRA (CN) | www.silviograsso.com

Perfectly managed by Federico and his family, this winery found an ally in the 2011 vintage year, which manages to soften the fairly austere Barolo style typical of the Grasso name. Without diminishing its abil39 JUNE 2015

ity to age, Bricco Manzoni offers remarkable velvety and creamy sensations well balanced by proper acidity.

The nose displays a clear, clean red berry note.

Barolo | Bartolo Mascarello BAROLO (CN)

The Mascarello family recipe is perfectly consolidated, and it is a winning one: blending the fruit of four small vineyards and practicing substantial non-intervention in the cellar. The result is great complexity and constant, remarkable equilibrium, nothing ever excessive. This 2011 is already approachable, thanks to tannic softness and the immediate fruitiness of the vintage year.

Barolo Marenca | Luigi Pira

SERRALUNGA D’ALBA (CN)

The style of this small, prestigious winery emphasizes power, as is usual in the territory of the best crus of Serralunga d’Alba.

Marenca is no exception and is softened by a passage in barrique that increases its elegance without covering up the generous and pure fruity notes of 2011.

Complex notes of smoke and toast create a multi-faceted, interesting personality.

Dense, tight, but not rough tannins play their part.

Barolo Cannubi | Poderi Luigi Einaudi

DOGLIANI (CN) | www.poderieinaudi.com

The winery’s Barolo style has progressively evolved towards a personality that de-

ANTEPRIME

pends more on the vineyard and the grape. Cannubi 2011 attains admirable taste balance thanks to a dense, progressive tannic weave that smoothly joins the measured acidity of the vintage year. On the nose, not only red fruit notes, but also more complex hints of spice and a touch of tobacco.

Barolo Brunate | Giuseppe Rinaldi BAROLO (CN)

With the arrival of Carlotta in the vineyard and Marta in the cellars, the estateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wines seem to have gained in freshness and fruitiness, putting aside some of their traditional austerity. This 2011 represents the best characteristics of the vintage year, with clean aromas of just ripe red fruit without any contribution of wood, in the purist, traditionalist Rinaldi style. Palate not aggressive but incisive, a wonderful interpretation of the Brunate cru.

40 JUNE 2015

Barolo Bric del Fiasc | Paolo Scavino CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO (CN) | www.paoloscavino.com

The Bric del Fiasc label exists since 1978, and over the years, the winery, led by Enrico Scavino, bought vineyards in various parts of the immediate zone, making itself a point of reference for the Barolo world. The nose is fresh and crisp, with red fruit dominating. The palate is solid and vibrant, its tannins assuring excellent potential for aging.

Barolo Rocche di Castiglione | Vietti

CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO (CN) | www.vietti.com

This cru has one of the richest personalities in the Barolo area. Usually, Rocche makes a timid, indecisive Barolo, which becomes complex and assertive only after lengthy aging in the bottle. The 2011 goes slightly against that pattern, presenting clean and seductive notes of raspberry on the nose. The vibrant palate already expresses unusual fullness, helped by a very dense tannic weave.

The barrique cellar of the Conterno Fantino winery Above, from the left, Matteo Einaudi of Poderi Luigi Einaudi and Enrico Scavino

41 JUNE 2015

ANTEPRIME

Barolo 2011 The long shots Barolo San Giovanni | Gianfranco Alessandria

MONFORTE D’ALBA (CN) |www.gianfrancoalessandria.com

From this little-known cru, located in that part of Monforte nearest Barolo, Gianfranco Alessandria makes a quite modern Barolo, where the effect of aging in small barrels is usually important for many years. A dense and juicy mouth guarantees brilliant taste evolution. Experience teaches us that the nose, today marked by spicy notes and still timid fruity sensations, will soon express seductive complexity.

Barolo Cannubi | Giacomo Brezza & Figli BAROLO (CN) | www.brezza.it

The Cannubi cru is the most famous in the zone.

Enzo Brezza makes an extremely classic version, never too powerful or structured, but of refined complexity. The 2011 is already rich and multifaceted on the nose: fruity tones but also the first hints of tobacco and licorice. The mouth is slightly marred by a tannic component that is more marked than we would expect, but we can wait faithfully, since there’s no lack of fruity substance.

tices some rough tannins.

In this 2011 from Serralunga, tannins are not yet integrated in the structure, and aromas are still young and not complex.

But it will all work out.

Barolo Massara | Castello di Verduno VERDUNO (CN) | www.castello diverduno.com

The Castello di Verduno has a soul inspired by Barbaresco but nourished by Barolo. Franco Bianco and Gabriella Burlotto joined their wineries and founded a valid, classic estate. Massara 2011 displays spicy and fruity aromas to the nose, lightly enriched by vegetal notes, typical of the cru and already harmonious. The mouth is still lagging a little, and so a bit rigid because of the tannins, but all will smooth out with time.

Barolo Cerretta | Ca’ Romé

BARBARESCO (CN) | www.carome.com

A winery that has managed over the years to prove itself one of the best interpreters of both Barolo and Barbaresco. The winery style is extremely respectful of the grapes and the maturation times of the wines, so at times one no42

JUNE 2015

Enzo and Oreste Brezza of Giacomo Brezza & Figli winery.

On the facing page, above, Pino and Romano Marengo of Ca’ Romé, and below, the vineyard of Podere Marcarini

Barolo Bussia | Giacomo Fenocchio

MONFORTE Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ALBA (CN) | www.giacomo fenocchio.com

Although the winery has added a new cru vinified separately, Castellero, the star of the Fenocchio show is still Bussia, which, in the best vintage years, is also produced in a Riserva version. Very long maceration and aging in Slavonian oak casks characterizes these wines. Beside fresh fruit, a striking note of licorice on the nose. On the palate, the tannins are still a bit hard.

43 JUNE 2015

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

Sicily

white surprises 44 JUNE 2015

White Sicilian wines based on catarratto, grillo, chardonnay, insolia and zibibbo grapes mean both historic labels and great easy drinking. All those listed here are under 10 euros in Italian wine shops. Affordable prices are the happy result of careful attention in the vineyard. Bottles such as these contribute to making the island one of Made in Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best ambassadors to the world.

45 JUNE 2015

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

years they have been perfecting their white from grillo grapes.

We like the 2013 Grillo del Lago for its delicate, aromatic, slightly iodine-scented nose and its agile, savory palate with a lightly bitter finish.

Pairing: The savory nature of the wine suits the iodine character of a hearty dish of spaghetti with clams.

Seligo Bianco ’13, Settesoli SS 115 | Menfi (AG) | Tel. 092577111 | www.cantinesettesoli.it | price 10.00 euros

The Settesoli cooperative, with more than 2,000 members and 6,500 hectares of vineyard, is unique in Italy, above all for the high quality of its production despite its near-industrial scale. Seligo Bianco ’13, a blend of grillo and chardonnay grapes, is a wine aimed at large chain stores, but could hold its own even in the Horeca (hotel, restaurant and catering) sector. Yellow fruit and citrus fruit on the nose; fresh, savory, drinkable and pleasantly fruity in the mouth.

Pairing: Drink with a shellfish soup.

Grillo ’13, Feudo Disisa fraz. Grisì | c.da Disisa | Monreale (PA) | Tel. 0919127109 | www.vinidisisa.it | price 8.70 euros

The Di Lorenzo family devote themselves to the four hundred hectares of their estate, Feudo Disisa, in the countryside near Palermo. The farm produces oil, but above all wine, exploiting the potential of the territory to the maximum. The municipality is Monreale, between 400 and 500 meters above sea level. The Grillo ’13 we tasted this year displayed aromas of citrus fruit lime and grapefruit in particular - as well as a lively herbaceous note. In the mouth, elegance, good acidic tension. Savory and persistent.

Pairing: Good with linguine and shrimp.

Angimbé ’13, Casa Cusumano c.da

San Carlo SS 113 | Partinico (PA) | Tel. 0918908713 | | price 9.70 euros

www.cusumano.it

The Cusamano family’s winery, from its very first appearance on the varied Sicilian winegrowing scene, distinguished itself for an excellent price/quality rapport along its entire production line. A blend of inzolia and chardonnay, Angimbé ’13 is a pleasurant wine right from its approach to the nose, where, along with tropical fruit and yellow floral notes, a delicious mentholated vein enhances all.

The flavor displays a powerful return of fruit and a fresh, lively and decidedly savory acidity.

Pairing: Goes well alongside baked turbot with vegetables.

Carta d'Oro ’13, Rallo via

Vincenzo Florio, 2 | Marsala (TP) | Tel. 0923721633 | | price 7.80 euros

www.cantinerallo.it

In under five years, Andrea Vesco managed to bring his winery back to the top. Like a car blessed with a great motor, over 100 hectares of vineyard, it needed a good overall tuning up. The whites presented for tasting this year were all high quality. Here we point out the Catarratto Carta Oro ’13, a mineraltoned white with fine aromas of peach and white flowers, notable for its pulpy fruit and savory acidity.

Pairing: Acidic backbone balances the sweetness of shellfish. Try with grilled shrimp.

Il Grillo del Lago ’13, Gaspare Di Prima via G. Guasto, 27 | Sambuca di Sicilia (AG) | Tel. 0925941201 | www.diprimavini.it | price 7.60 euros

The estate of the Di Prima family covers about 40 hectares of hillside around the Arancio Lake near Sambuca di Sicilia, one of the most vineyard-laden areas of all Sicily. Famous more for its production of reds, Nero d’Avola and Syrah in particular, for a few 46

JUNE 2015

Grillo ’13, Tenute Rapitalà

Regaleali Bianco ’13, Tasca d'Almerita

c.da

c.da

Camporeale (PA) | Tel. 092437233 | www.rapitala.it | 9.90 euros

Regaleali | Sclafani Bagni (PA) | Tel. 0916459711 | | price 8.60 euros

price

www.tascadalmerita.it

The winery founded by Hugues de la Gatinais extends for over two hundred hectares on the hills that descend gently from Camporeale towards Alcamo and the sea. Now in the hands of the Gruppo Italian Vini, it has become, over a very few years, one of the most dynamic and innovative wineries on the island. The pleasant iodine-scented nose of Grillo ’13 opens on herbaceous notes, citrus fruit and white melon tones. Fresh and savory on the palate, it is even more pleasant thanks to a long and delicately citrusy finish.

Pairing: An aperitif wine, good with fresh cheeses.

The Regaleali estate has always been the stronghold of the Tasca d’Almerita family, so much so that Count Giuseppe, the founder of the property, used that name almost 60 years ago, to label the first wines that vaunted his coat of arms. Regaleali Bianco ’13, now at 54 harvests, offers up aromas of citrus fruit, broom flowers, mint and plum. The mouth is fresh, intense, delicately savory and shows amazing persistence on the palate.

Pairing: An elegant wine that enhances the simple flavor of fish tartare.

Etna Bianco ’13, Emanuele Scammacca del via

Murgo

Zafferana, 13 | Santa Venerina (CT) | Tel. 095950520 | | price 8.60 euros

www.murgo.it

In little more than a decade, this historic winery has added to its traditional Etna production, first a line of well-made and dependable metodo classico spumanti, and now wines from a new, large estate called Gelso Bianco. We noticed the excellent Etna Bianco ’13, from carricante and cataratto, with a markedly elegant nose, mineral, dense with citrus fruit - grapefruit in particular - and white fruit. On the palate, the fruit is splendidly balanced by acidity that is still cutting and savory.

Pairing: It can stand up to veal and chicken dishes.

Pioneers of organic farming in Franciacorta

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 1308/13 CAMPAIGN FINANCED PURSUANT EEC REGULATION NUMBER 1308/13

TRAVEL

photo by

Andrea Ruggeri

text and photos by Francesca Ciancio

ETNA 48

JUNE 2015

The highest volcano in Europe, Etna, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site for almost two years. Thanks to media attention, its unique agricultural properties have aroused curiosity. Wine dominates the territory, alongside increasingly interesting food and farming

The salt of the volcano, the sweetness of the sun 49 JUNE 2015

TRAVEL

E

tna is a crucible of biodiversity. Wine led the way towards making the volcano one of the trendiest zones in Europe. It accounts for less than five percent of Sicily’s production, but judging by its appeal, you would think wine accounted for ninety. Wine tourism is growing, and with it everything a traveler needs: hotels, b&bs, restaurants, farms. Etna is now a gourmet destination.

Few cuisines can balance the savory and the sweet as knowingly as Sicilian. Its agriculture and historic aristocracy are at the heart of this harmony. Although the eastern part of the region has been attracting awards for a while, Etna’s chefs have begun to challenge the establishment, whether they are working in Taormina’s great hotels, the trattorias and taverns set along the volcano’s lava-based ski runs, or in

boutique country houses.

In the country boutique hotel Zash, in Risposto, thirty-something chef Giuseppe Raciti draws on the flavors of the sea and the mountain.

On a risotto enlivened with rosemary, capers and lemon zest, he serves shrimp carpaccio. Everything is strictly local: the aromatic herbs and citrus fruit are from the hotel kitchen garden. Five kilometers to the south, in another resort, Donna Carmela, young chef Andrea Macca, who studied with famed chef Ciccio Sultano, pays homage to the volcano with ‘sandy’ paccheri, tapered, cone-shaped pasta filled with ricotta and porcini mushrooms (the quality of the Etna’s black ones are renowned), served on winter squash puree. In the springtime, artichokes replace the mushrooms and pureed fava beans replace the squash. Crispness comes from a toasted, crunchy

Green gold - pistachios Etna owes a great deal to nuts, in particular to pistachios. Almost one hundred percent of Italian pistachios are grown in the area around Adrano, Bronte, Biancavilla and Ragalna. The crop is a biennial bearer, a heavy crop one year and very little the next. In some years, the price can reach almost 50 euros a kilo. Altogether, the groves cover 300 hectares and trees are productive only ten years after planting. Hazelnuts, however, can grow where vineyards can’t, and they find a natural habitat in volcanic soil: good acidity, organic substances and active limestone. Their flavor takes on the fragrance of broom flowers. Pastry became the natural interpreter of these nuts, including almonds. Alhambra in Linguaglossa was founded by the Barone family in 1939. It established its reputation with chocolate-covered hazelnut crunch. Other specialties include hazelnut, almond and pistachio pastes - always fresh (they last about four weeks) and never cloyingly sweet.

They are baked for less than two hours to keep them fragrant and pliable.

Pasticceria Alhambra | via G. Marconi, 76 | Linguaglossa (CT) | tel. 095 643156 | www.pasticcerialalhambra.it Chef Andrea Macca’s paccheri sabbiati at Donna Carmela Pistachio paste

51 JUNE 2015

powder of dried tomatoes, anchovies, capers and breadcrumbs. In Zafferana Etnea, the kitchen of the Parco dei Principi hotel is led

by Seby Sorbello, president of the Association of Etna Chefs. He expresses his love for the volcano in a dish called Ripiddu, the local word for black lava gravel: donkey meat tartare is marinated in cola apples (small, tart and crisp), honey, thyme and dill, and served with quenelle of hazelnuts, sheep’s milk ricotta, a bouquet of cannatedda (a wild herb that grows on the volcano’s slopes) and a crumble made from reducing Nerello Mascalese wine the last ingredient stands in for the Ripiddu. This culinary invention maps out the zone.

The menu at Peppe Anzalone’s trattoria, San Giorgio e il Drago, in Randazzo is simpler, but just as closely tied to the territory. The chef prepares all his own pasta and tops it with seasonal vegetables

TRAVEL

Ripiddu, Seby Sorbello’s dish

such as wild asparagus that grows on Etna up to 1,300 meters above sea level and can be harvested until late summer. His colleague, Lina Castorina, from the trattoria I 4 Archi di Milo, focuses on a Slow Food Presidium product, cavolo trunzu from Aci, a violet-streaked kohlrabi, the color common in many vegetables growing on mineral-rich volcanic soil. She serves it with tomato sauce and shavings of Ragusano cheese to soften the bitterness of the vegetable.

In Catania, the volcano is omnipresent: you see it, you hear it, and you can eat it. Andrea Graziano, at PorkEtna, the most recent sandwich to emerge from that taste lab of his, Fud, embodies the Etna spirit. The bread has the form of a volcano, and is filled with pastrami from Nebrodi pork. The meat, seasoned with cloves, juniper berries and smoked salt, is cooked at a low temperature and, after being breaded with pistachios. is enhanced with broccoli, cola apple jelly and Zafferana Etnea honey.

Addresses where to sleep

where to eat

Zash Contry Boutique Hotel | s.da Provinciale 2/I-II, 60 | Archi - Riposto (CT) | tel. 095 7828932 | www.zash.it

Terra Mia - ristorante di campagna | s.p. 64 | Solicchiata | Castiglione di Sicilia (CT) | tel. 393 9069704 |

Shalai Resort | via G. Marconi, 25 | Linguaglossa (CT) | tel. 095 643128 | www.shalai.it

4 Archi | via F. Crispi, 9 | Milo (CT) | tel. 095 955566 | www.4archi.it

Donna Carmela Resort | Grotte, 5 | Riposto (CT) | tel. 095 809383 | www.donnacarmela.com

San Giorgio e il Drago | p.zza San Giorgio, 20 | Randazzo (CT) | tel. 095 923972

c.da

Agriturismo Wine Resort Villagrande | via del Bosco, 25 | Milo (CT) | tel. 095 708 2175 | www.villagrande.it Agriturismo Parco Statella | via Montelaguardia, 2/s | Randazzo (CT) | tel. 095 924036 | www.parcostatella.com Picciolo Etna Golf Resort & Spa | s.s. 120, km 200 | Castiglione di Sicilia (CT) | tel. 0942 986384 | www.ilpiccioloetnagolfresort.com

52 JUNE 2015

Cave Ox | via Nazionale Solicchiata, 159 | Solicchiata | Castiglione di Sicilia (CT) | tel. 0942 986171 | www.caveox.it

where to shop Mieli Solmielato | via Cancelliere, 53 | Zafferana Etnea (CT) | tel. 095 7083374 | www.solmielato.it Olio extravergine di oliva Stingi | via S. Pietro 149 | Adrano (CT) | tel. 095 7691971 |

TRAVEL

Adrano,

porchetta made in

Sicily

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no shortage of meat or butchers on the volcano. Sausages are popular, especially those made with pork seasoned with wild fennel and, according to tradition, prepared on a slab of wood from the trunk of an oak tree. There was, however, no broad tradition of meat curing. Giuseppe Indoratoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nero Maialino, butcher and meat-curer, in Adrano, changed that. Giuseppe opened this shop after traveling around Italy as a meat expert.

He had taught his trade - cutting, spicing and temperature control - in large companies. But here on Etna he produces his own prosciutto, porchetta, and aged sausage. According to Giuseppe, the volcano gives them a different flavor. Meat lovers turn to Indorato for pork from the Nero Maialino of Nerodi breed, for marinated beef, for salami from black pigs, for hot red Etna sausages, cooked ham and house-made frankfurters. His veal is Sicilian, raised in the zones of Fiumefreddo and Sortino.

Nero Maialino macelleria | via Cappuccini, 22 | Adrano (CT) | tel. 095 9893056 | www.neromaialino.it PorkEtna by Andrea Graziano Kohlrabi from Aci

A dish from Trattoria San Giorgio e il Drago

54

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RECIPES FR0M TOP CHEFS

by Francesco Seccagno photos by Marcello Bocchieri

Meals at the Duomo bring together the colors and culture of multi-faceted Sicily.

They convey the nature of its soil and sea and, above all, of its people. Creative cuisine seduces every palate with its elaborate simplicity, aimed straight at the heart of flavor and pleasure, both physical and intellectual.

Ciccio Sultano

NEW SICILIAN CUCINA 57 JUNE 2015

RECIPES FR0M TOP CHEFS

Culinary fusion conquers all

“I’m a frontier chef from Italy’s deep south. I live with the difficulty of promoting the traditional cucina that Sicily expresses.” But Ciccio Sultano’s cooking, in his restaurant Duomo in Ragusa Ibla, seems anything but the expression of traditional cucina. Ciccio joins in his dishes the culture of the soil and herbs found in the countryside with the habits of familystyle cooking, the baroque notions of Sicily’s 19th-century influential French chefs known as monsù, and even the sometimes brutal cucina of fishermen. It all comes together in a unified picture in which Sultano aims to give a coherent vision of his island region’s heritage. Only a year after the Duomo opened, at the beginning of the new millennium, Gambero Rosso Channel featured Ciccio Sultano as a young emerging talent. He’s forged ahead in the fifteen ensuing years. Today he is the flag bearer for the new Sicilian cucina whose growth and diffusion he led. Ciccio, apprenticed to a pastry chef at 13 years old, first worked in a rosticceria, the typical Italian take-out place. Soon he traveled to Munich, then to Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Finally he landed in New York in the kitchen of Lidia Bastianich, the experience that shaped him most fully. “The relationship with Lidia Bastianich,” Ciccio remembers, “was fundamental to my professional growth, but above all for my cultural awakening. She lent me books by Sicilian writers such as Pirandello and Sciascia. I began to look at my land with other eyes, braiding together many elements: ingredients, the rapport between flavor and aesthetics, the colors on the plate, the landscape...” All this had to harmonize without ever losing sight of pleasure and respect for the ingredients.

That’s why Ciccio’s cooking is for everybody.

He wants to be appreciated and recognized without creating discomfort even when he finds extreme solutions. Today, after having located his ‘sweet box’, the pastry area, just at the entrance to the Duomo, at 45 years old, the chef is launching a new format. With I Banchi, eating is combined with the playful nature of cooking, a sort of bazaar of the territory, where diners can ask to taste and cook everything that’s on show inside the evocative Palazzo Diquattro.

Ciccio Sultano and Gabriella Cicero, the chef’s work and life partner

58 JUNE 2015

Duomo | Via Capitano Bocchieri, 31 Località Ragusa Ibla | Ragusa | tel. 0932 651265 | www.cicciosultano.it

Carciofo imbufalito Artichokes and mozzarella 4 artichokes charcoal-grilled 250 g buffalo mozzarella 350 cl chicken broth (from Sultanoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Aia Gaia) 80 g fresh breadcrumbs toasted with wild fennel

250 g Sicilian truffles 5 candied cherry tomatoes 5 candied chili peppers extra-virgin olive oil

Peel artichokes down to the heart and fill them with mozzarella. Cut four slices from the remaining mozzarella, obtaining rounds with a pastry cutter. Bread the slices with the toasted crumbs. Bake the artichokes for 4 minutes and the breaded mozzarella slices for a few seconds. Serve in deep plates. On the bottom, place the mozzarella rounds, then the artichokes upside-down on top, and complete with a ladleful of hot chicken broth. Garnish with shavings of truffles, a cherry tomato and half a chili pepper.

59 JUNE 2015

RECIPES FR0M TOP CHEFS

Tra la campagna e il mare Between turf and surf Artisanal spaghetti from Sicilian flour, smoked-garlic infused olive oil and sea urchins on a puree of wild asparagus For the asparagus puree: 20 g spring onions

For the spaghetti: 400 g durum wheat Senatore Cappelli

20 g extra-virgin DOP Monti Iblei

semolino

olive oil

100 g water

60 g potatoes 20 g sprigs of wild green fennel 200 g vegetable broth

For the sea urchin pulp: 25 g smoke-infused olive oil

60 g stalks and tips of wild asparagus

100 g fresh raw sea urchin meat

1 tbsp cream

5 g chopped parsley

salt and chili pepper

salt and chili pepper

60 JUNE 2015

Make the spaghetti: pile the flour on a board and add water. Knead into a smooth dough, homogeneous and fairly hard.

With the help of a rolling pin, form a sheet about 2 mm thick and slice it into spaghetti.

Assembling the dish: cook the pasta, drain and stir into smoky olive oil and chopped parsley. Taste for salt and chili pepper. At the end, add the raw sea urchin pulp, leaving some aside in the refrigerator. Spread the asparagus puree on the bottom of a deep dish and place pasta over it. Top with cold sea urchin pulp, garnish with 3 blanched asparagus tips, a dusting of grated lemon zest and some Sicilian or Maldon salt crystals.

Il pollo di campagna Country-style Chicken

50 g grape must

400 g vegetable broth

25 g soy sauce

30 g minced onion

50 g butter

extra-virgin olive oil

2 unpeeled garlic cloves

30 g butter

1 sprig rosemary and 1 sprig thyme

30 g grated Ragusano DOP cheese

4 cannoli tubes oven-proof paper

For the meat sauce: Fegatini di un pollo

kitchen string

chicken livers

extra-virgin olive oil, salt, black

100 g diced nero di Nebrodi pork

Sicilian truffl

50 g cubes of maialino nero salami

For the corn foam: 250 ml milk

30 g minced onion

60 g peeled, diced potato

1 clove garlic, 1 bouquet aromatic herbs, vegetable broth

50 ml cream 15 g minced onion 150 g corn

20 g minced celery

The chicken: cover the cannoli tubes with oven-proof paper. Spread out the chicken,

salt, and roll around the tubes, balancing well breast and thigh. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in fridge for 12 hours. Remove wrap and tie chicken with string.

Heat olive oil, garlic and herbs in a pan and brown wings and rolled chicken, moistening with grape must, soy sauce, butter, and a little broth. Vacuum pack the chicken pieces individually with some of the pan juices and cook at 68 ° C for 150 minutes. The corn: sautÊ onion with potato, add corn and cook through. Puree, strain, and place in a siphon with two sections. Rice crisps: assemble the ingredients, proceeding as for a risotto, and cool. Meat sauce: proceed as for a normal meat sauce, cool and puree. Blend risotto and meat sauce, place in buttered oven-proof paper and bake at a dry 180°C for 15 minutes. The result should be crisp.

Assembling the dish: untie the chicken and warm the chicken in its own liquid. Fill the chicken rolls with corn foam and serve on flat plates, completing with truffles, rice crisps and sauce.

Carlo Giunta

4 chicken wings

For the rice crisps: 200 g rice

photo

1/2 organic chicken

RECIPES FR0M TOP CHEFS

Sichilia Variations on lemon For the lemon cream: 80 g lemon juice 90 g sugar 120 g eggs 150 g butter For the almond biscotto: 174 g almond flour 120 g sugar 219 g eggs 48 g egg whites 30 g sugar For the lemon cream: 250 g water 1 lemon 75 g sugar 1 g agar agar For the pistachio crumble: 50 g pistachio flour 50 g flour 00 50 g soft butter 50 g sugar For the Swiss meringue: 125 g powdered sugar 60 g egg whites For the citronella and thyme sherbet: 1 l water

thyme

For the chocolate mass: 300 g white chocolate 200 g cocoa butter For the honey sauce: 100 g water 60 g honey thyme

Lemon cream: heat lemon juice, sugar and eggs to 82 째 C. Remove from heat and strain.

When the cream has cooled to 55째 C, beat in soft butter with an immersion blender.

Almond biscotto: beat whites and 30 g of sugar into peaks. Reserve in fridge. Beat the whole eggs and remaining sugar for at least 10/12 minutes. When they are frothy, add almond flour little by little. At the end, fold in whites. Lemon cream: bring to a boil, pour into a pan and cool. Pistachio crumble: mix flour and sugar, then add soft butter little by little. Bake at 175째 C for 12/15 minutes. Swiss Meringue: heat ingredients to 60째C and beat into peaks. Citronella and Thyme Sherbet: bring water and sugar to a boil.

Remove from heat and add citronella and thyme. Cool and add 10 g of stabilizer and blend.

Chocolate mass: dissolve separately, unite and mix. Honey sauce: blend all together with the help of a spoon or a small whisk. Assembling the dish: arrange a circle of sponge cake on a place and decorate with 8 puffs of lemon cream. Complete with the half-spheres of merinque, lemon gelatin and some thyme leaves. Finish the dish placing, to the right of the sponge cake, the pistachio crumble and a ball of sherbet. Top with honey sauce.

62 JUNE 2015

photo Ivano

80 g citronella leaves

Fachin

300 g sugar

PAIRINGS

BOZZA

PER

A P P R O VA

Nome Cliente: AZ. AGR. BARRACO

Data: 1

Codice Cliente: ET. VIGNAMMARE

Codice

(da citare semp

CARTA 127 BIANCA OPACA PERM. Scala 1:1 - F.to 45 x 145

Colori:

NEROu,

ORO LAMINA 220

ATTENZIONE: l’approvazione intende relativa alla totalità d grafismi che devono essere integralmente. La relativa rip considera a tutti gli effetti autorizz a partire dall’approvazione della pr

Carciofo imbufalito

Tra la campagna e il mare

BOBINATU RA

Case Bianche 2012 | Tenuta Enza La Fauci | Messina | www.tenutaenzalafauci.com

Grillo Vignammare 2013 | Nino Barraco | Marsala (TP) | www.vinibarraco.it

Uff. produzione - rep. formatura

Et. per rotolo:

3/5 AB

Diam. mandrino mm: 76 (nome leggibile)

w

w

.

r

The singularity of this ancient indigenous zibibbo grape from Messina, the exiled cousin of the better known Zibbio from the islands, thrives in its own territory: the sand of the Sicilian Straits gives the wine savory flavor and verticality that is almost Nordic. It goes well with the complex harmony of the artichoke combined with mozzarella and chicken broth.

A Grillo made without sulfites, with light structure and low alcohol, this label has a powerful Mediterranean and maritime personality. Iodine aromas pair well with the flavor of the amberjack (a breath of the sea).

On the nose, the freshness of aromatic herbs, of Mediterranean brush, accompany the vegetal impact of the dish. Acidic and savory sensations accompany the lemon zest.

Il pollo di campagna

Sichilia

Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2011 | Tasca D’Almerita | Sclafani Bagni (PA) | www.tascadalmerita.it

Passito di Pantelleria 2007 | Salvatore Ferrandes | Pantelleria (TP) | www.passitodipantelleriaferrandes.com

The softness of monovarietal Nerello Mascalese manages to keep flavors distinct without overwhelming them: elegant aromas range from berries to mountain flowers. A slight smoky tone bridges the corn and the black truffles, giving the taste intriguing three-dimensionality.

Breathe in well before tasting. Chew for a few seconds before swallowing. If you close your eyes, you seem to be on the hill of Pantelleria where capers grow. The nose offers fragrances of sun- and salt-dried fruit. The palate is absolutely easy, but complex. Savory sensations blend immediately with sugary ones and call for a rapid re-tasting.

The creaminess of sweetness, the freshness of lemon and the acidity of sherbet travel well together.

JUNE 2015

Firma del client

Diam. esterno bob. mm: 230

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Redatto da: SAQ

Emesso da: SAQ

Data ultima revisione: 1997.30.10

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LETTER FROM PARIS

LESSONS FROM THE GREATEST

FRENCH WINE PRODUCER Lalou Bize Leroy is 83 years old. She bought her first wines for the famous Maison Leroy in 1955 and in September, she will begin her sixty-first harvest. She led the Domaine de la Romanée Conti until 1992, created the Domaine Leroy in 1988, and since then has become adept at biodynamic agriculture. The wines of Domaine Leroy and of Domaine d’Auvenay, where she lives, are legendary, sought after by the entire world. They represent an absolute ideal of great wine. We met her recently and decided to let her speak here, because her words are precious both for wine lovers and for the winegrowers of the world.

Learning about wine: “I grew up respecting wine and I have been passionate about it since I was a child.

I understood very early that it wasn’t by chance the wines of Meursault were elegant, like the spire of the local church of Saint-Nicolas.

There was a relationship between the vineyards, the landscape and flavor. I understood this early in my life.”

Are négociant and winegrower two different professions?

“I have always had the same approach. Even as a négociant I wanted wines of the highest quality, and it meant constant research. If wine isn’t top quality, it doesn’t interest me. Extraordinary, or nothing.” Biodynamic viticulture: “I have understood for a long time that everything is alive: grapes, wine. I didn’t want the vineyard

destroyed by pesticides, fungicides, insecticides. It’s a crime. Biodynamic agriculture is just good sense. It’s a way of living and thinking. Morally and physically I was unable to do anything different. Pythagora, 2,600 years ago, said that until humans respect animals and lower living things, they will not experience joy or love. We transmit a vital force to plants and to the earth, and they are content. You see this immediately from the leaves.

They breathe. They live.”

The vineyard: “I don’t like to pull up vines. A vineyard is like a village. You need the aged, the adults, the young and the newborn. They live together, they talk, they help each other.” Yield: “I want yields to be low. Some producers practice fierce selection, but I think the vineyard decides its yield. It rules. You take what the vineyard gives.

I don’t do green harvesting.”

Vinification and harvesting of grapes whole, not destemmed: “We take all the leaves off every bunch. It’s a titanic job. We don’t want the ruin the grapes by pulling out the stems, and besides, the stems allow the juice to circulate well in the vat. The maturity of the vineyard prevents a sensation of rigidity in the wine.” The responsibility of the winegrower: “I’m in charge of every step.

To have great wine, you have to have wonderful grapes.

Nature can’t be forced, but can be domesticated.”

Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauv

64 JUNE 2015

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June 2015

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