WINE OF THE MONTH
by Lorenzo Ruggeriri
Sangue di Giuda Winery: Calatroni bottles: 6,000 Excellar price: 6 euros Blend: croatina, barbera and uva rara This month’s wine leads us to Oltrepò Pavese, a territory lying a half-hour’s drive south of Milano. The name, Sangue di Giuda, means Blood of Judas, and the wine itself is a sweet, bubbly product made in the eastern part of the Oltrepò. This year we found a truly exceptional version produced by Cristian and Stefano Calatroni who represent the fourth generation of vine growers to manage the family winery founded by their grandfather, Luigi, in 1964. These two skilled young men have taken over the vineyards, which until now had been sharecropped, and are focusing on bringing out the best of the primarily calcareous soil here (especially Riesling and Pinot Nero for their sparkling wines). The winery’s growth (which has seen the addition of an agritourism) has been rapid. The important thing now is to stay the course. The 2016 Sangue di Giuda, a blend of croatina, barbera and uva rara grapes, is the best in its area, with its generous, captivating aromas of black fruit and well-focused residual sweetness. Tannic, vigorous and KZQ[XQ\PI[I[I\Q[NaQVOTaR]QKaÅVQ[P,ZQVS it chilled, with a slice of salami from Varzi, and deal the cards.
SANGUE DI GIUDA, THE BITTERSWEET SYMPHONY
12 SEPTEMBER 2017