Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food

WWW.GAMBEROROSSO.IT YEAR 21 N. 110 - SEPTEMBER 2017

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

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THERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT SICILY

®

a tavola

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WINE 18 | Sicily calls on Sicilians Settesoli turns to indigenous varieties and to young Sicilians who have seen the world, learned languages and aim to reshape the image of their island. Milena Rizzo, 31 years old, is the house enologist.

34 | Bordeaux 2016. The art of waiting An exceptional year, for its weather and its unforeseen results.Thanks to prevention, patience, and the withholding of forced interventions, it was a wonderful vintage. Our en primeur tastings‌

TRAVEL 24 | Collio. Frontier whites

September 2017

The soft hills of the Collio zone are known for great white wines, but also for their villages, food products, cuisine and art treasures. Beauty, yes, but also serenity. This is the province of Gorizia, in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, on the border with Slovenia 2 SEPTEMBER 2017

34

41

“Age is just a number.

It’s totally irrelevant unless, of course, you happen to be a bottle of wine.”

Joan Collins

24

55

FOOD

NEWS & MORE

41 | Fermentation. Cooking with bacteria AWO]Z\ SMÅZ SWUJ]KPI [Wa [I]KM UQ[W \MUXMP" fermented products are present on every supermarket shelf.

Fermentation is an ancient technique of conservation and X]ZQÅKI\QWV WN NWWL[ \PI\ Q[ PI^QVO I VM_ LIa QV SQ\KPMV[ everywhere. Many chefs are using fermented products in their LQ[PM[ .WWL JMKWUM[ PMIT\PQMZ IVL ÆI^WZ[ IZM IUXTQÅML Even at home, grandmothers’ methods are returning 55 | Emanuele Scarello. Friuli vineyards and sea Friuli’s cucina has a thousand facets, draws from many sources, and is deeply rooted in the region’s vineyards, mountains and seashore. Emanuele Scarello is probably \PM [\ZWVOM[\ ^WQKM IUWVO \PW[M \PI\ \Z]UXM\ \PM ÆI^WZ[ of this zone. He is also the one who looks to the future. “If tradition isn’t renewable, then it doesn’t make much sense.”

3 SEPTEMBER 2017

4 | Editorial Sicily. An island that pulsates 6 | News from around the world 8 | Wine and Economy 10 | Events Abroad Gambero Rosso World Tour 12 | Wine of the month Calatroni Sangue di Giuda 14 | Twitter dixit 16 | Design

EDITORIAL

PHOTO BY

FIRRIATO

SICILY. AN ISLAND THAT PULSATES

Much has been said about Sicilian wine, but it’s never enough. No Italian zone has been able to overturn the opinions of the media and consumers the way Sicily has in the last twenty years (see the article on page 20). Obviously, the process began with a territory of great potential – but many territories with potential offer production that, in terms of quality, is unreliable.

However, this island region has managed to emphasize the best it offers, with marketing that has always included the territory itself, the genius loci, its history and culture, transmitting a unique message of vitality and charm. Outreach is seasoned with warmth and savoir faire, in a remarkable demonstration of teamwork, of systematically pulling together. Sicily’s wine world was able to channel intelligence and knowledge into a chorus that communicated the island’s energy in constructive terms, showcasing the individual parts – the different territories, wine varieties, styles – in the name of a whole called, above all, Sicily. It’s not an accident that the denomination that carries that name is the most

successful one, proving that if a regional denomination transmits clear values and comprehensible contents – and isn’t just a catch-all for what doesn’t have a precise origin – it can be victorious. <PM VM_ OMVMZI\QWV PI[ JMVMÅ\ML NZWU JZQTTQIV\ UQVL[ who are building on what their grandparents and parents founded. The emerging leaders are demonstrating attention, sensibility, the capacity to listen, love for their own lands, and passion that reveals a powerfully beating heart. Perhaps we risk sounding sentimental, falling into the most simplistic stereotypes, but it’s undeniable that what has happened in Sicily has to do with a certain way of understanding and interpreting life. Human intelligence takes various shapes, each with its charm, and it doesn’t make sense to classify.

But here we have to spotlight the fact that Sicilian intelligence is emotional and passionate. It has restored to the south – too often labeled as sleepy – recognition of its uniqueness.

Eleonora Guerini 4

SEPTEMBER 2017

2017

Vini d’Italia Worldtour 2017/2018 NOVEMBRE

OTTOBRE 25 SEOUL - Corea

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

27 28

OSAKA - Giappone VARSAVIA - Polonia

Top Italian Wines Roadshow Vini d'Italia Experience

31

TOKYO - Giappone

trebicchieri

03 06 08 13

TAIPEI - Taiwan PECHINO - Cina HONG KONG - Cina SHANGHAI - Cina

Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri trebicchieri - HKTDC Special Vini d'Italia Experience

23

MOSCA - Russia

trebicchieri

2018 GENNAIO 16 STOCCOLMA - Svezia

trebicchieri

18 22

COPENHAGEN - Danimarca Vini d'Italia Experience BERLINO - Germania Vini d'Italia Experience

25

MONACO - Germania

FEBBRAIO 01 MIAMI - Stati Uniti 06 CHICAGO - Stati Uniti 08 NEW YORK - Stati Uniti 13 15

APRILE 05 SAN PAOLO – Brasile 09 HOUSTON - Usa 25 DUBAI - EAU

trebicchieri

Vini d'Italia Experience trebicchieri trebicchieri

Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow Notte Italiana Vini d'Italia Experience

MAGGIO 07 ZURIGO - Svizzera 22 SINGAPORE - Singapore 24 BANGKOK - Thailandia

Vini d'Italia Experience Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow

GIUGNO 04 SEATTLE - Usa 06 VANCOUVER - Canada

Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri

08

trebicchieri

SAN FRANCISCO - Stati Uniti trebicchieri LOS ANGELES - Stati Uniti trebicchieri

MARZO 01 LONDRA – Regno Unito 17 DÜSSELDORF - Germania

trebicchieri trebicchieri PROWEIN Special

TORONTO - Canada

NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

YAKUMANAKA: ceviche by chef Gaston Acurio in Barcelona

A star quality ceviche place featuring the most admired Peruvian chef of all time, Gaston Acurio, has opened in Barcelona. Yakumanaka in the Quechuan language refers to the water in oceans and rivers that fosters life.

Chef Acurio’s investment in the Catalonian city aims to offer authentic food that respects traditional Peruvian recipes but showcases local ingredients. The kitchen is headed by Cesar Bellido, one of Acurio’s disciples, and

PQ[ UMV] NWK][M[ WV ^IZQI\QWV[ WV \PM NZM[PM[\ WN Å[P seasoned with tiger milk (the citrus-based marinade that cures the seafood in a ceviche) and varying intensities of KPQTQ XMXXMZ 5IQV LQ[PM[ ZIVOM NZWU NZQML \W OZQTTML Å[P including wok stir-fries. Acurio is replicating his La Mar format, which serves 700 people daily in Lima. Over the years, it has been exported around the world, offering 8MZ]^QIV ÆI^WZ[ QV IV MI[QTa IKKM[[QJTM SMa

A vegan alternative that the food industry likes Four students from the University of Udine – Francesca Zuccolo, Greta <Q\\WV )ZQIVVI :WQ IVL )]ZWZI /WJM[[Q · PI^M KZMI\ML \PM ÅZ[\ ^MOIV MOO )\ ÅZ[\ OTIVKM Q\ MI[QTa LMKMQ^M[ M^MV \PM UW[\ I\\MV\Q^M MaM 1\ PI[ been designed to resemble a classic boiled egg, and even the sensations Q\ XZW^QLM[ Q\[ ÆI^WZ IVL KWV[Q[\MVKa IZM \PM [IUM <PM ^MOIV MOO Q[ I UQ` WN VI\]ZIT QVOZMLQMV\[ UIQVTa TMO]UM JI[ML XZW\MQV TILMV ÆW]Z[ vegetable oils, gelatin and a special salt. The egg is ready to eat and must JM ZMNZQOMZI\ML 1\ Q[ QLMIT NWZ \PW[M WV ZMO]TI\ML LQM\[ [QVKM Q\ KWV\IQV[ VW cholesterol or gluten. The commercial potential of the product is so appetizing that its patent will soon start down the pathway to public release.

6 SEPTEMBER 2017

COCKTAILS by Chicagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Achatz come to New York British Food purchases Modenaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s balsamic vinegar producer, Acetum

Grant Achatz, the undisputed reigning chef of Chicago, is opening in New York. After considering a new location for some time, he has signed an agreement with the Mandarin Oriental group and chosen to conquer the Big Apple. <PM 7NĂ&#x2026;KM I [W KITTML [XMISMI[a PI[ JMMV WXMV [QVKM 2]VM WV \PM \P Ă&#x2020;WWZ WN \PM PW\MT WV +WT]UJ][ +QZKTM _Q\P I ^QM_ W^MZ +MV\ZIT 8IZS <PM cocktail kitchen of The Aviary, a successful format dedicated to avant-garde, ITT LIa LZQVSQVO Q[ WXMVQVO [WWV 1\[ JIZ\MVLMZ[ _WZS JMPQVL \PM [KMVM[ IVL LZQVS[ IZZQ^M I[ UIOQKIT MTIJWZI\M Ă&#x2026;bbQVO KWVKWK\QWV[ )T[W XTIVVML Q[ I [MTMK\QWV WN \I[\QVO UMV][ LM[QOVML NWZ XIQZQVO _Q\P LZQVS[ _Q\P \PZMM Ă&#x2026;^M WZ [M^MV courses. For full immersion in The Aviary world, ten-to-thirteen course tastings are served in the drinks kitchen.

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Associated British Food is a food QVL][\Za KWTW[[][ _Q\P MUXTWaMM[ QV KW]V\ZQM[ IVL ZM^MV]M[ WN ITUW[\ JQTTQWV IVL a half pounds sterling annually.

1\[ IK\Q^Q\QM[ QVKT]LM NWWL QVOZMLQMV\[ IVL ZM\IQT <PM Ă&#x2026;ZUÂź[ UW[\ recent acquisition focuses on a ZMVW_VML 1\ITQIVQ[[QUW XZWL]K\ Modenaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s balsamic vinegar. With the purchase of Acetum, controlled by the Clessidra group, British Food will bring the principal producer of non-traditional balsamic vinegar across the channel. Balsamic vinegar production _QTT ZMUIQV QV 1\ITa I[ \PM Z]TM[ regarding Protected Origin products require. Leadership will still be in the hands of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founders, although under the aegis of British Food. The new owners announced, â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is a marvelous opportunity to become the K][\WLQIV[ WN IV 1\ITQIV XZWL]K\ with a great reputation, while promoting ambitious projects for growth throughout the world.â&#x20AC;?

WINE AND ECONFMY

BREXIT. How English prices and habits are changing Conversations about Brexit have resumed with the trimester report of the Wine and Spirits <ZILM )[[WKQI\QWV 1\[ ZMKMV\ London conference demonstrated how the British choice to leave the EU has already had an impact on wine consumption. <PM ITIZU _I[ Ă&#x2026;Z[\ [W]VLML Ja \PM I[[WKQI\QWV TI[\ 2]VM _PMV it showed higher than ever inKZMI[M[ QV \PM KW[\ WN _QVM _Q\PQV _MMS[ \PM KWUJQVML MNNMK\ WN QVĂ&#x2020;I\QWV \I`M[ *ZM`Q\ the so-called Triple Whammy.

1V \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ \ZQUM[\MZ WN \PM average price of a bottle of wine _I[ Â&#x160; ]X [QVKM TI[\ aMIZ The bad news may not end here because in November the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Autumn Budget will appear, calling for an increase QV ITKWPWT L]\a QV TQVM _Q\P QVĂ&#x2020;Ition. The BBC announced that since the Brexit referendum, even Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cabinet ministers have changed their wine-drinking habits. They now drink less wine and favor English or Welsh labels.

MARKETS. World demand increased in 2017. Germany ahead of China The total value of exports in the Ă&#x2026;Z[\ PITN WN NZWU \PM [M^MV principal wine-exporting coun\ZQM[ ZMIKPML JQTTQWV M]ZW[ ZMXZM[MV\QVO WN \PM UIZSM\ <PM Ă&#x2026;O]ZM Q[ IV QVKZMI[M WN compared to the same month in IKKWZLQVO \W LI\I NZWU -]rostat and Customs. Osservatorio Paesi Terzi (Business Strategies) pointed out that an increase in .ZMVKP _QVM M`XWZ\[ WN ITlowed the European countries to UIQV\IQV I TM^MT WN WN OTWJIT [ITM[ 1\ITQIV M`XWZ\[ OZM_ UWZM [TW_Ta \PIV \PM -]ZWXMIV average, according to Nomisma an W^MZITT )V IVITa[Q[ WN \PM 8 SEPTEMBER 2017

data comparing the performances of the seven exporters in the eight most important importing markets (USA, UK, China, Germany, +IVILI 2IXIV ;_Q\bMZTIVL IVL Russia) shows that China is now spending more on wine than GerUIVa" ! JQTTQWV M]ZW[ QV [Q` UWV\P[ I[ KWUXIZML \W JQTlion spent by the Germans). Silvana Ballotta, CEO of the Osservatorio, describes the situation as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;lively marketâ&#x20AC;?, with the United ;\I\M[ OZW_QVO QV I aMIZ _PQTM /MZUIVa IVL =3 \WWS I [\MX JIKS 1\ITa Q[ [\QTT a leader in the USA, but Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s share is growing four times as fast.

Ferrari crowned “Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year” Ferrari, the Trentino winery, for the second time won the important recognition, “Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year” at The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships, one of the most prestigious occasions dedicated to\ITTa \W [XIZSTQVO _QVM[ .WZ \PM MLQ\QWV _QVM[ NZWU ! KW]V\ZQM[ _MZM \I[\ML <WU ;\Mvenson, a renowned authority in the sector and the founder of the competition, announced \PM ZM[]T\[ WV ;MX\MUJMZ I\ >QV\VMZ[¼ 0ITT in London. The star performer of this edition, PW_M^MZ _I[ <ZMV\WLWK \PM 1\ITQIV [XIZSTQVO wine denomination, which nearly doubled its PI]T WN /WTL 5MLIT[ NZWU QV \W ! \PQ[ year. Eleven of these nineteen medals went to the Ferrari winery. This edition also presented Best in Class awards to six Ferrari labels, ranging from Ferrari Perlé Nero Riserva Magnum ! \W .MZZIZQ 5I`QU]U :W[u

In Europe, over 150 wine-business acquisitions and mergers between 2010 and 2017. Rabobank analysis The Rabobank analysis of the peZQWL ZM^MIT[ I LaVIUQK wine world, signing off on more \PIV UIRWZ WXMZI\QWV[ <PM report cataloged mergers and acquisitions in the sector in terms of LQNNMZMV\ KI\MOWZQM[ <PM ÅZ[\ _I[ non-European investors purchasing prestigious wine producers: largely Americans and Chinese encouraged by the growing demand in their own countries. Examples are the purchases of Bon-

neau du Martray (by Americans) and La Guyennoise (by Chinese).

Château Perenne now belongs to 2IKS 5I \PM NW]VLMZ WN )TQJIJI Another category refers to local businesses devoted to export that widen their reach by buying from co-nationals: Masi purchased a large share of Canevel Spumanti, and Campari sold its French winery, Château Sancerre, to Maison Ackerman. The third category is wine businesses that buy abroad 9 SEPTEMBER 2017

to round out their presence on the -]ZWXMIV UIZSM\ <PM .ZMVKP -81 Group (Piper-Heidsieck) bought Montalcino’s Biondi Santi. Rotkäppchen-Mumm bought RugOMZQ \PM 1\ITQIV XZW[MKKW XZWL]KMZ while Maisons & Domaines Henriot took over a majority share of 7ZMOWV¼[ *MI]` .ZvZM[ 1V^M[\ment funds, a category of its own, purchased French Bouvet Ladubay and Spanish Vintae (luxury wine specialists).

EVENTS ABROAD

GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR 2017/2018 STEP BY STEP

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From Seoul to Toronto, over thirty events to promote wine and Italian food around the world.

Focus: the United States and Asia

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trebicchieri tour

10 SEPTEMBER 2017

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THE RETURN OF THE RUSSIAN MARKET A snapshot taken in Moscow last November shows better than any description the interest that Italian wine can excite when its operators present themselves as a team on the international UIZSM\[ :][[QI PI[ KWUM JIKS QV\W \PM XQK\]ZM IN\MZ LQNÃ&#x2026;K]T\ years and double-digit decreases in Italian wine, proving how much food export is linked to that of wine. The event has been KWVÃ&#x2026;ZUML WV W]Z KITMVLIZ NWZ <P]Z[LIa 6W^MUJMZ

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*MNWZM _M KTW[M PMZM¼[ I TI[\ TM[[WV _M TMIZVML QV \PM[M aMIZ[ WN \ISQVO WNN IVL KPMKSQVO QV ?M PI^M [MMV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa XITI\M[ JMKWUM \W\ITTa MK[\I\QK W^MZ _QVM[ []KP I[ 4IUJZ][KW .ITIVOPQVI /ZMKPM\\W IVL .ZIVKQIKWZ\I I[ _MTT I[ -\VI ?M¼^M [MMV IOML <ZMJJQIVW L¼)JZ]bbW ]VKWZSML I\ \PM \IJTM NWZ []U[ KTW[M \W 5IVa W\PMZ _QVM[ W^MZTWWSML I\ PWUM IT[W [MTT NWZ QV[IVM []U[ ?M UMV\QWV ITUW[\ QV KPWZ][ W]Z K]T\]ZIT []XMZQWZQ\a W]Z OZIXM ^IZQM\QM[ J]\ LW _M ZMITTa JMTQM^M M[XMKQITTa _M 1\ITQIV _QVM RW]ZVITQ[\[ \PI\ \PM[M _QVM[ KIV PWTL \PMQZ W_V IOIQV[\ \PM OZMI\M[\ _QVM[ QV \PM _WZTL' 7Z LW _M []NNMZ NZWU IV QVNMZQWZQ\a KWUXTM` IVL I KMZ\IQV LMOZMM WN M`KM[[Q^M ZMOIZL NWZ _PI\¼[ NWZMQOV' <W N]TTa ]VLMZ[\IVL W]Z W_V KW]V\Za IVL Q\[ \MZZQ\WZa \PQ[ KWV\QV]W][ \ZI^MT Q[ M[[MV\QIT NWZ JW\P \PW[M _PW XZWL]KM _QVM IVL \PW[M _PW _ZQ\M IJW]\ Q\ M^MZa LIa

,]JIQ Q[ IT[W \PM OI\M_Ia \W )[QI _PMZM VQVM [\WX[ IZM WV \PM ZW[\MZ JM\_MMV 7K\WJMZ IVL 5Ia ?M KIV LQ^QLM \PMU QV\W \PZMM OZW]X[ *IVOSWS ;MW]T IVL *MQRQVO IZM UIZSM\[ \PI\ PI^M ITZMILa MUMZOML NZWU \PM MUJZaW XPI[M IVL M`XMZQMVKML IV ]VUQ[\ISIJTM TMIX QV \MZU[ WN JW\P Y]ITQ\a IVL SVW_TMLOM WN 1\ITQIV _QVM[ ;PIVOPIQ <IQXMQ IVL 0WVO 3WVO IZM QV IV M^MV UWZM IL^IVKML XPI[M \PIVS[ \W I UI[[Q^M XZM[MVKM WN ?M[\MZV KWV[]UMZ[ IVL \ZILMZ[ <PM KIXQ\IT KQ\a WN <IQ_IV Q[ XMZPIX[ \PM MI[QM[\ \W IXXZWIKP IVL \PM UW[\ LZI_V \W \PQVO[ 1\ITQIV QV \PQ[ UWUMV\ .QVITTa ;QVOIXWZM IVL <WSaW _Q\P I [MKWVL 2IXIVM[M [\WX QV 7[ISI" \PM[M IZM SVW_TMLOMIJTM UIZSM\[ \PI\ TW^M 1\ITa _PMZM [WXPQ[\QKI\ML LZQVSMZ[ IZM QVKTQVML \W [XMVL WV \WX

4M\¼[ KTW[M _Q\P WVM LI\M" 7K\WJMZ <PM VM_ [MI[WV \ISM[ WNN QV :WUM _Q\P \PM XZM[MV\I\QWV WN >QVQ L¼1\ITQI <_MV\a NW]Z PW]Z[ TI\MZ _M TMI^M NWZ ;MW]T 11

SEPTEMBER 2017

WINE OF THE MONTH

by Lorenzo Ruggeriri

Sangue di Giuda Winery: Calatroni bottles: 6,000 Excellar price: 6 euros Blend: croatina, barbera and uva rara This month’s wine leads us to Oltrepò Pavese, a territory lying a half-hour’s drive south of Milano. The name, Sangue di Giuda, means Blood of Judas, and the wine itself is a sweet, bubbly product made in the eastern part of the Oltrepò. This year we found a truly exceptional version produced by Cristian and Stefano Calatroni who represent the fourth generation of vine growers to manage the family winery founded by their grandfather, Luigi, in 1964. These two skilled young men have taken over the vineyards, which until now had been sharecropped, and are focusing on bringing out the best of the primarily calcareous soil here (especially Riesling and Pinot Nero for their sparkling wines). The winery’s growth (which has seen the addition of an agritourism) has been rapid. The important thing now is to stay the course. The 2016 Sangue di Giuda, a blend of croatina, barbera and uva rara grapes, is the best in its area, with its generous, captivating aromas of black fruit and well-focused residual sweetness. Tannic, vigorous and KZQ[X Q\ PI[ I [I\Q[NaQVOTa R]QKa ÅVQ[P ,ZQVS it chilled, with a slice of salami from Varzi, and deal the cards.

SANGUE DI GIUDA, THE BITTERSWEET SYMPHONY

PHOTO BY

GPERDONI/WIKIMEDIA

12 SEPTEMBER 2017

H E R I TAG E S I NC E 1681

With our vineyards and never-ending dedication to quality, we craft artisan wines in limited edition that will exceed your expectations.

For over four hundred years, we have been growing wine grapes on the unique terroirs of the Lison Classico D.O.C.G. area, which is located in the countryside of Venice.

TENUTA POLVARO

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Via Polvaro 35 • 30020 • Annone Veneto, VENICE • ITALY

SEGUICI SU • FOLLOW US:

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5WZM I\ P\\X" [WKQIT^QOVMZWV[ KWU ! _QVM [UMTT[ TQSM VMK\IZ JMMZ [UMTT[ TQSM OWI\

14 SEPTEMBER 2017

EXPLORING LUGANA Part I The territory, its grape, its beauty

The variety The territory The winemaking history of this zone stretches Traversing one of the most beautiful areas The wine-growing zone back to the ancient Romans. By the eighof northern Italy, a patchwork of vineyards on the southern coast teenth century, documents exist referring to and olive groves, of wineries and pristine of Lake Garda has long the elegant lakeside white. The grape varinatural landscapes, lake shores and jewelattracted world attention ety then was called turbiana. It is a noble, like villages laden with luminous colors, for the quality and flavor ancient variety, a typical grape of this zone. fragrances and flavors, it’s hard to believe of its white wine. The five On the shore of Lake Garda it found its ideal that the ancient Lucana, whose name might municipalities where Lugana derive from the Latin word for woods – lucus habitat and expresses itself wonderfully well. is produced are Desenzano, Today turbiana is one of Italy’s most costly – was a wild and marshy place, a swampy grape varieties. If interpreted with moderate Lonato, Peschiera del Garda, wood. Centuries of forestry, which began yields by a sensitive winemaker, it can be in the fifteenth century, beautified the land.

Pozzolengo and Sirmione a flavorful and fragrant white, with vigorToday, turbiana grows largely on flat terrain, ous aromas including almond and citrus fruit, able to produce a on superior soil distinguished by a clayey nature of moraine oriwhite rich in subtleties and personality. gin, sedimentary, prevalently calcareous, rich in mineral salts. The zone between Desenzano, Sirmione and part of the municipality of Pozzolengo and Peschiera is the heart of the denomination, SIMPLY ITALIAN GREAT WINES which has its most historic zone between Rovizza and Lugana.

US TOUR 2017 This clay, which in the hillier swaths of the DOC becomes sandier www.simplyitaliangreatwines.com and sandier, is the vault for the sensory patrimony of Lugana: body October 23 | CHICAGO and warmth, acidity and sapidity in the structural framework of the October 25 | SAN FRANCISCO wine, joined to a fragrant range of aromas. The zone enjoys a Sir Francis Drake Hotel microclimate: breezes and lake waters contribute to softening the 10.30 a.m. - masterclass dedicated to Lugana. climate and mitigating the temperature excursions between night and day – a kind of cradle that brings out the characteristics of AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY turbiana.

NATIONAL CONFERENCE

& 50th ANNIVERSARY www.americanwinesociety.org November 2 – 4 | MT. POCONO, PENSYLVANIA Kalahari Resort masterclass and tasting stand

IN

THE NEXT ISSUE: THE

CONSORZIO,

THE WINE, ITS HISTORY

WINE BLOGGERS CONFERENCE www.winebloggersconference.org November 9 - 11 | SANTA ROSA, CALIFORNIA

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

DESIGN

by Francesco Seccagno

DESIGN FOOD Form. Volume. Pattern.

And, obviously, function.

The selections on these pages are linked by a careful attention to design that makes traditional objects contemporary.

Trays, glasses, plates and curtains are revisited in the light of modernday sensibility, with small but decisive variations from the classic.

LOVELY BREEZE | ALESSI | CRUSINALLO (VB) | TEL. 0323 868 611 | WWW.ALESSI.COM “Lovely Breeze” resembles a miniature dancer who can rock, roll and rotate on the table.

It takes up little room because it stands up by itself when empty. Japanese designer Sakura )LIKPQ LM[KZQJM[ PQ[ ÅZ[\ XZWL]K\ NWZ )TM[[Q as a “rocking container”. Firmly convinced of the form-function bond, Sakura Adachi devises ingenious space-savers like Lovely Breeze. When not holding fruit, pastries, nuts or even keys and change, it swings back to its original upright position, like a leaf or a feather in the wind.

GIN COLLECTION | LSA INTERNATIONAL | WWW.LSAINTERNATIONAL.COM | WWW.MAINOCARLO.IT Flared stems, tapering forms and thick bases add character to this assortment of contemporary handmade glasses, all shaped by LSA’s master mixologist to enhance the expression of gin’s delicate botanicals, whether in a classic gin & tonic or a contemporary cocktail.

Headed by Monika Lubkowska-Jonas, LSA International is one of Europe’s leading brands of handmade glass.

16 SEPTEMBER 2017

CURTAIN “STREIFZÜGE” | NYA NORDISKA | COMO | V.LE ROSSELLI, 16 | TEL. 031 576157 | WWW.NYA.COM Stripes dissolve, overlap, divide and reassemble in the Streifzüge collection, the word itself a combination of the German for ‘stripes’ and ‘exploration’.

The patterns suggest delicate clouds, city lights by night, sea birds above the waves. Nya Nordiska exploits the world of textiles, ranging from weaving and knitting to printing, appliqués and openwork fabrics.

Citylife embodies vitality and QVLMXMVLMVKM ZMÆMK\QVO \PM tension between urban romanticism and modern metropolitan energy. Soirée is a series of elegant fabrics with a touch of extravagant luxury. Balance’s VI\]ZIT ÅJMZ[ [MV[]IT UI\MZQals and pastel shades evoke the beauty of landscapes.

LOONA | INFINITO DESIGN | CASTELVECCHIO DI MONTE PORZIO (PU) | TEL. 0721 955 101 | WWW.INFINITO-DESIGN.IT 4WWVI \PM VM_ KWTTMK\QWV WN XTI\M[ NZWU 1VÅVQ\W ,M[QOV KWUpletes a series dedicated to tableware d’auteur using krion, \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM \PQ[ QVVW^I\Q^M UI\MZQIT PI[ JMMV [MMV QV NWWL related design. It is warm to the touch, hardy, anti-bacterial and entirely recyclable. Made of two-thirds rock mineral and one-third methyl methacrylate (MMA), an organic compound, it is en^QZWVUMV\ NZQMVLTa ¹4WWVI ZMÆMK\[ W]Z desire to capture the essence of the traditional, round plate form,” explained designer Cristina Zanni. “We based the shape of the plate on the moon, and the lunar phases became the six variations on the collection’s theme.”

17 SEPTEMBER 2017

COVER STORY

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

SICILY CALLS ON SICILIANS

Settesoli turns to indigenous varieties and to young Sicilians who have seen the world, learned languages and aim to reshape the image of their island. Milena Rizzo, 31 years old, is the house enologist

SELINUNTE

19 SEPTEMBER 2017

COVER STORY

“T

he elders of our village always told me \PI\ QV 5MVÅ \PM \MZrain changes with evMZa [\MX º [IQL 5QTMVI :QbbW \PM aW]VO MVWTWOQ[\ NZWU Palermo who guides Cantine Settesoli. The winery is one of the largest KWWXMZI\Q^M[ QV -]ZWXM" UMUJMZ[ PMK\IZM[ WN ^QVM[ ITT WN -\VI PI[ WVTa IJW]\ \PQZ\a ^QVM ^IZQM\QM[ IVL ZM^MV]M[ WN UQTTQWV M]ZW[ IVV]ITTa <PM J][QVM[[ QVKT]LQVO UMUJMZ[ IVL \PMQZ LMXMVLMV\[ QV^WT^M[ WN \PM NIUQTQM[ QV \PM territory. The beauty of this corner of Sicily is dangerous on a day at the MVL WN []UUMZ" [MI IVL ^QVMaIZL[ ZPa\PUQK LQITMK\ KILMVKM[ QV\MV[M ÆI^WZ[ _PMI\ ÅMTL[ IVL TQOP\ \PI\ ZM[MUJTM[ IV 1V[\IOZIU ÅT\MZ QV \PM way it illuminates objects. Three hundred days of sun annually are VWZUIT J]\ _I[ WVM WN \PM PW\test summers in decades. It hadn’t ZIQVML [QVKM .MJZ]IZa 5MVÅ Q[ QV \PM )OZQOMV\W XZW^QVKM LMMXM[\ ;QKQTa facing south-west.

MILENA RIZZO

) ZM\QZML RW]ZVITQ[\ I[ PM W]\TQVML \PM KWV\QV]IT M`WL][ WN \PM \P KMV\]Za UMV\QWVML \PI\ )UMZQKIV IK\WZ Steve Buscemi’s family came from here. Young people left seeking a bet\MZ N]\]ZM 5QTMVI [\]LQML QV 5IZ[ITI \PMV _MV\ VWZ\P \W )[\Q IVL )TJI QV 8QMLUWV\ JMNWZM _WZSQVO QV +ITQfornia and New Zealand. Then she _MV\ JIKS \W _PMZM [PM PIL [\IZ\ML ;M\\M[WTQ QV 5MVÅ · I ZM\]ZVQVO ;QKQTQIV ¹>QM_ML NZWU W]\[QLM ;QKQTa Q[ an incredible land. You can see its LMNMK\[ UWZM KTMIZTa J]\ IT[W Q\[ OWWL qualities. It becomes a motivation for [PW_KI[QVO \PQ[ JMI]\a W]Z K]T\]ZM OWWL NWWL IVL _QVM WJ^QW][Ta <PM aW]VO XMWXTM _PW ZM\]ZV \W ;QKQTa º

TASTING AT SEA Francesco Tarantino (www.amaresicilia.it) leads excursions by boat that include tastings of wine, local cheeses and olive oil.

The bitterness of the local nocellara cultivar is in perfect harmony with the power of this land.

20 SEPTEMBER 2017

MANDRAROSSA

BY THE GLASS MANDRAROSSA URRA DI MARE 2016

All Milena’s sensibility is evident in this Sauvignon. Gentle in its arWUI\QK QUXIK\ UWZM IJW]\ NZ]Q\ \PIV ^IZQM\IT OZMMV QV\MV[Q\a Q\ Q[ R]QKa IVL NZIOZIV\ _Q\P [KMV\[ WN thyme and white pepper on the ÅVQ[P 1\ KITT[ NWZ \]VI KIZXIKKQW

MANDRAROSSA PERRICONE ROSÉ 2016

This wine struck us most of all.

7XMV \PM [KZM_ \WX IVL ÅVL QUmediate pomegranate-blueberry NZIOZIVKM[ IVL I TQOP\ ÆI^WZN]T XITI\M _Q\P \PM ITUWVL ÅVQ[P typical of perricone. Fruity and NZM[P _Q\P ]V][]ITTa MI[a LZQVSIJQTQ\a ;QVKMZM IVL MVMZOM\QK Q\¼[ good on its own or sipped along with live music in good company.

MANDRAROSSA TIMPEROSSE 2016

) UWVW^IZQM\IT 8M\Q\ >MZLW\ _PQKP _M ÅZ[\ [QXXML PM[Q\IV\Ta L]M \W \PM LQNÅK]T\QM[ WN UIVIOQVO this variety and the many terrible results we’ve sampled around the ZMOQWV 1V[\MIL \PQ[ ^MZ[QWV LQ[XTIaML I [XQKa ^MZa ;QKQTQIV XZWÅTM with aromas of Mediterranean JZ][P ZW[MUIZa _QTL ZML JMZZQM[ ) ÅVM \IVVQK \M`\]ZM OWWL IKQLQ\a LMTQKI\M []JL]ML PMZJIT VW\M[ IVL I _MTT ZM[WT^ML ÅVQ[P

MANDRAROSSA CAVADISERPE 2016

Blend of merlot and alicante JW][KPM\ ) KWUXIK\ R]QKa _QVM _Q\P ZMÅVML XTMI[IV\ PMZJIKMW][ IVL ZML JMZZa IZWUI[ [WN\ IVL [ML]K\Q^M ?Q\P I TQ\\TM W`aOMV \PM ÆWZIT KPIZIK\MZ IXXMIZ[ ITWVO with a note of freshly ground pepper. We drank it slightly chilled with memorable grilled [IZLQVM[ · MI\MV _Q\P W]Z ÅVOMZ[ of course. It was a perfect match.

COVER STORY

VITO VARVARO A CHANGE OF MENTALITY Vito Varvaro, a manager with long experience in multinational companies, has been president of Settesoli since 2011. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our winery shows that you can work as a team in the south, holding together 2,000 families. We have to aim for a territorial wine that is able to interpret the territory unmistakably. It will certainly be a Mandrarosa label, which is our line for hotels and restaurants. We are studying wines that should be ready for 2019-2020.â&#x20AC;? Vito underlines the necessity of creating global brands to make an impact on international distribution, the weak point in Italian exports.

Organic wines donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem a priority on the winery calendar, even though its organically farmed hectares now amount to 700, almost doubled since 2016. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Here the top problem is the mentality of being dependent on the state, an attitude that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lead to growth and development. Government contributions never reward merit, but simply rain down. In Sicily, there is no meritocracy. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m trying to build here, counting on a generation of 30-somethings that speak foreign languages and know how to move in the world.â&#x20AC;? In this area, promoting the territory depends on private investment. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have to wake up the young people. The best ones have taken off, but little by little, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re attracting them back. Only they can carry out a revolution in Sicily.â&#x20AC;?

22 SEPTEMBER 2017

5QTMVI KWV\QV]ML šLWVÂź\ [MM I XTIKM \PI\Âź[ KTW[ML QV J]\ ZI\PMZ I LaVIUQK territory that has to open up to measuring itself against the world. Settesoli permits you to stay in Sicily but MVRWa I OTWJIT ^Q[QWV ?M M`XWZ\ \W KW]V\ZQM[ 1\Âź[ I OZMI\ WXXWZ\]VQ\a Âş The average age of the Settesoli team PI[ OWVM LW_V LZIUI\QKITTa _Q\P many employees around 35 years old. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Many young people come back to take over the enterprises founded Ja \PMQZ OZIVLNI\PMZ[ IVL NI\PMZ[ J]\ they begin with a different sensibility. ?M KZMI\ML I OZW]X <MZZWQZ \W OQ^M W]Z UMUJMZ[ [XMKQĂ&#x2026;K Z]TM[ \W UISM \PMU QVKZMI[QVOTa KWUUQ\\ML WNNMZQVO \MKPVQKIT PMTX ;QVKM _M have enologists Alberto Antonini and 8MLZW 8IZZI NZWU +PQTM IVL _MÂź^M carried out land-zoning and research into rare varieties that are disappearQVO \PW[M WN _PQKP _M KIV TWKI\M only a few examples. We have found some indigenous varieties and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re working on them. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done micro^QVQĂ&#x2026;KI\QWV[ J]\ Q\ \ISM[ \QUM ?MÂźTT launch them only when weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to compete with the great zones of \PM _WZTL Âş Settesoliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vineyards lie on an enormous stretch of terrain that includes Ă&#x2026;^M U]VQKQXITQ\QM[ TaQVO JM\_MMV bMZW IVL UM\MZ[ IJW^M [MI TM^MT š?M IZM NWK][ML WV VI\Q^M 6MZW LÂź)^WTI OZQTTW KI\\IZZI\\W IVL OZMKIVQKW which is always the last one we harvest. We also grow international varieties that have adapted to our climate _MTT <PM[M OZIXM[ TQSM KPMVQV JTIVK IVL XM\Q\ ^MZLW\ TMVL NZM[PVM[[ IVL IKQLQ\a Âş 5QTMVI M`XTIQVML \PI\ \PQ[ aMIZ QV \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ _MMS WN )]O][\ \MUXMZI\]ZM[ ZMIKPML Â&#x2C6;+ Â&#x2C6;. )\ VQOP\ NWZ I _MMS Q\ VM^MZ _MV\ JMTW_ Â&#x2C6;+ ! !Â&#x2C6;. š?M JMOIV PIZ^M[\QVO WV 2]Ta ?M XQKSML ITT \PM _PQ\M grapes during the night. The timing was extremely tight. Yields were 25 JMTW_ VWZUIT J]\ _M [MM \PI\ the late-ripening varieties are better \PIV _M M`XMK\ML Âş The change in mentality is also obvious in a more contemporary IXXZWIKP \W ^QVQĂ&#x2026;KI\QWV _Q\P \PM

introduction of large barrels and a growing use of ‘live’ cement that is “able to maintain freshness and not have any impact on the aromatic range of the wine. We want to emphasize the crisp character of W]Z _QVM[ \PI\ UQVMZITQ\a \PI\ _M ÅVL QV W]Z ^ITTMa[ \PM [IXQLQ\a \PI\ TMVO\PMV[ \PM _QVM[¼ TQNM º <PM 5IVLZIZW[[I TQVM I UQTTQWV IVL I PITN JW\\TM[ IVV]ITTa Q[ \PM SMa JZIVL <PM XZWRMK\ TI]VKPML QV !!! PI[ JMMV ZM^IUXML NWK][QVO WV \PM JM[\ PMK\IZM[ WVTa \PW[M NIZUML WZOIVQKITTa M^MV QN VW\ KMZ\QÅML <PM KPITlenge is to increase the value of each JW\\TM _PQKP Q[ [\QTT \WW TW_ ZIQ[M \PM ÆIO WN Y]ITQ\a IVL \P][ LQ[\ZQJ]\M more wealth to members. The zone KIV IVL U][\ OQ^M UWZM <PMZM Q[ still enormous potential to exploit. ?M [_IU QV 5MVż[ TQUXQL KWWT [MI 23 SEPTEMBER 2017

and downed a plate of hand-made XI[\I · \_Q[\a JZ][QI\M · ITTI 6WZUI _Q\P \WUI\W MOOXTIV\ IVL [IT\ML ZQKW\\I ?M I\M NZM[P Å[P IVL ^Q[Q\ML heart-stopping archeological sites.

I asked Milena to name three places that would explain this land to IV W]\[QLMZ 0MZ IV[_MZ[ _MZM ÅZU IVL KTMIZ ¹.QZ[\ WN ITT 1 _W]TL JZQVO \PMU \W W]Z ^QVMaIZL WV \PM [MI \_W PMK\IZM[ WN [aZIP º ;PM¼[ ZQOP\ ?PMV _M PIL ^Q[Q\ML \PM [XW\ _I[ [W JMI]\QN]T \PI\ _M [\WWL [QTMV\Ta R][\ OIbQVO NWZ UQV]\M[ ¹<PMV 1¼L \ISM \PMU \W \PM 5IOIOOQIZW ?WWL[ QV \PM ]XXMZ XIZ\ WN 5MVÅ .ZWU \PMZM you can see all the hillside vineyards and get an idea of the depth of the [XIKM )VL ÅVITTa \PQZLTa 1¼L OW \W ;MTQV]V\M \PM /ZMMS IKZWXWTQ[ _Q\P I ^QM_ WN \PM [MI º )VL \P][ \PM W]\sider decided to remain.

TRAVEL

text and photography

by Massimiliano Rella

The soft hills of the Collio zone are known for great white wines, but also for their villages, food products, cuisine and art treasures.

Beauty, yes, but also serenity. This is the province of Gorizia, in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, on the border with Slovenia

24 SEPTEMBER 2017

o i ƣ o C

FRONTIER WHITES

TRAVEL

“O

ur Collio is on a microclimate line where the Mediterranean and Mittel Europa UMM\ /ZIXM[ ÅO[ IVL XWUMOZIVI\M[ OZW_ PMZM º 2WíSW ;QZS \WTL ][ 0M Q[ \PM W_VMZ WN 4I ;]JQLI I handsome resort in the country[QLM WN +WZU V[ ¹;TI^QK )][\ZQan, Venetian and Mediterranean K]T\]ZM[ ITT JTMVL PMZM 7]Z SQ\KPMV[ MUJZIKM \PM [W]T[ IVL QVOZMLQMV\[ WN UIVa XMWXTM[ ) TQ\\TM N]Z\PMZ ITWVO QV ;IV .TWZQIVW \PI\ ITT MVL[ º )\ 4I ;]JQLI \PM MV\QZM ;QZS NIUQTa [XTMVLQLTa Z]V[ \PM )T +IKKQI\WZM ZM[\I]ZIV\ 1\[ top quality cucina is in the hands WN [WV QV TI_ )TM[[IVLZW /I^IOna, who offered us two new dishes.

7VM _I[ IV ]V][]IT \IZ\IZM WN ^MVQ[WV IVL Å[P WV I 2MZ][ITMU IZ\QKPWSM [ITIL [MZ^ML _Q\P KZQ[X NZQML [SQV IVL Æ]NNa XWTMV\I <PM W\PMZ _I[ I \I[\a XIQZQVO WN KPIZKWIT OZQTTML ^MVQ[WV ÅTTM\ \ZW]\ MOO[ IVL LZWX[ WN XQ[\IKPQW X]ZMM

ALESSANDRO GAVAGNA, LA SUBIDA’S CHEF LA SUBIDA ANTIPASTO: MIXED TARTARE OF VENISON AND SALMON TROUT ON JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SALAD, WITH CRISP FRIED EEL SKIN AND FLUFFY POLENTA

JOSKO SIRK IN FRONT OF THE SUBIDA VINEGAR CELLAR

26 SEPTEMBER 2017

RADICCHIO ROSA FROM GORIZIA Among the many varieties of radicchio grown in Italy, only one could inspire poetry: Rosa di Gorizia. As JMI]\QN]T IVL NZIOZIV\ I[ I ÆW_MZ it was once exported to all the markets of the Austro-Hungarian emXQZM 7^MZ \PM TI[\ ÅN\a aMIZ[ /Wrizia’s farmers have been nurturing the variety to make it even gentler IVL UWZM ÆWZIT ,ZW]OP\ ZM[Q[\IV\ adapted to pebbly and dry terrain, it has edible roots that dive deep into the ground. The plant grows in open ÅMTL[ ]V\QT MIZTa ,MKMUJMZ _PMV Q\ begins to develop a rose-shaped heart IUWVO Q\[ TMI^M[ ?Q\P \PM ÅZ[\ NZW[\[ it becomes red. It is then harvested, weather permitting, until February.

The plant is then transferred to a protected environment where it continues to grow. The external leaves are removed in order to free the crimson heart, crisp and delicate. It is excellent in salad, risotto and various sauces.

OSTERIA CARLO BRUMAT | GORIZIA | VIA DEL MONTE SANTO, 133 | WWW.LAROSADIGORIZIA.COM

ROSA DI GORIZIA

ON A

WINE PRODUCER ROBERTO PICÈCH VESPA DEL COLLIO WITH HIS WIFE, ALESSIA

KRISTIAN KEBER IN HIS VINEYARDS

2WíSW WV \PM W\PMZ PIVL [PW_ML WNN PQ[ XZWL]K\QWV WN _PQ\M ^QVMOIZ NZWU ZQJWTTI OQITTI OZIXM[ ¹1\¼[ I OZMI\ ITTa QV \PM SQ\KPMV JMKI][M Q\ K]\[ NI\ º PM M`XTIQVML XWQV\QVO W]\ \PM ^QVMOIZ UISQVO ZWWU \PM acetaia IVL OQ^QVO ][ I [XZIa JW\\TM WN PQ[ ZQJWTTI XZWL]K\ 0M LMUWVstrated how to spray it delicately, TQSM XMZN]UM )T\PW]OP \PM +WTTQW \MZZQ\WZa Q[ _MTT SVW_V NWZ \PM Y]ITQ\a WN Q\[ _PQ\M _QVM[ Q\ IT[W WNNMZ[ [WUM M`cellent sources for food specialties []KP I[ \PM >MTQ[KMS NIUQTa J]\KPMZ [PWX \PM <WUILQV LMTQKI\M[[MV [\WKSML _Q\P TWKIT IVL ZMOQWVIT XZWL]K\[ IVL *MXQVW BWNN ¼[ KPMM[M[ NZIOZIV\ _Q\P PMZJ[ IVL [XQKM[ 6MIZJa /WZQbQI Q[ SVW_V NWZ I LMTicate radicchio called Rosa, named 27 SEPTEMBER 2017

NWZ Q\[ MTMOIV\ ÆW_MZ TQSM IXXMIZIVKM >Q[Q\WZ[ KIV \W]Z ^QVMaIZL[ _QVMZQM[ IVL [PWX[ WV I 8QIOOQW motor scooter, Vespa del Collio. <PM XMZ[WVITQbML aMTTW_ [KWW\MZ Q[ VIUML NWZ Q\[ \MZZQ\WZa IVL KIV JM ZMV\ML QV +WZU V[ )JW]\ I LWbMV wineries lend them to their clients I[ _MTT <PM XZWRMK\ Q[ Z]V Ja \PM Enoteca di Cormòns and the Con[WZbQW >QVQ +WTTQW ?PQTM \I[\QVO IVL \W]ZQVO WV \PM XIVWZIUQK [TWXM[ Q\¼[ MI[a \W OW LW_V I KW]V\Za ZWIL IVL ÅVL WVM[MTN IKZW[[ \PM JWZLMZ QV ;TW^MVQI Before the fall of communism and \PM KZ]UJTQVO WN A]OW[TI^QI \PM NIZUMZ[ IVL OZIXMOZW_MZ[ VMIZ \PM JWZLMZ PIL \W JM KIZMN]T \W VW\ [\MX W^MZ \PM NZWV\QMZ ) UWUMV\ of distraction could lead to an in-

TRAVEL

ROBERTO SMIDARCIG, A COLLIO PRODUCER, STANDING ON A GRANITE BORDER MARKER. LEFT IS ITALY, RIGHT IS SLOVENIA

ternational incident in the tense XWTQ\QKIT KTQUI\M L]ZQVO \PM +WTL ?IZ *]\ \WLIa _ITSQVO IUWVO \PM ZW_[ WN NZQ]TIVW ZQJWTTI OQITTI IVL XQVW\ OZQOQW JMTWVOQVO \W :WJMZ\W ;VQLIZOQK¼[ <QIZM _QVMZa _M KWV\QV]ML WV QV\W \PM ^QVMaIZL[ WN PQ[ ;TW^MVQIV VMQOPJWZ TM[[ \PIV UM\MZ[ NZWU \PM M` K][\WU[ JWW\P ?PMV \PM 1ZWV +]Z\IQV LQ[IXXMIZML WVTa \PM OZIVQ\M JWZLMZ UIZSMZ[ ZMUIQVML I[ I UMUWZQIT \W I LQ^QLML -]ZWXM 7\PMZ _QVMZQM[ VMIZ \PM ;TW^MVQIV *ZLI \PM VIUM WN \PM +WTTQW IKZW[[ \PM JWZLMZ _PMZM aW] KIV MVRWa \PM [PQ^MZ WN JWZLMZ KZW[[QVO _PQTM LZQVSQVO I OTI[[ WN _PQ\M _QVM IZM 0]UIZ -LQ 3MJMZ IVL +WTTM ,]OI JM\_MMV \PM PQTT[ WN ;IV .TWZQIVW and Cormòns. <PM ;TW^MVQIV +WTTQW WNNMZ[ I JZMI\P\ISQVO TIVL[KIXM I XIZILQ[M NWZ XPW\WOZIXPMZ[ J]\ Q\ IT[W

CHEESE ZOFF, A DAIRYMAN IN THE FIELDS 0I^M aW] M^MZ \I[\ML ZW[M XM\IT Ã&#x2020;I^WZML KPMM[M' <PI\¼[ WVTa WVM WN \PM \MV ^MZ[QWV[ Ã&#x2020;I^WZML _Q\P PMZJ[ IVL [XQKM[ ZW[MUIZa \PaUM VM\\TM[ [IUJ]KW Ã&#x2020;W_MZ[ JI[QT° UILM Ja *MXQVW BWNN 0M PI[ ZIQ[ML IVQUIT[ IVL UILM cheese since boyhood. His dairy in Cormòns also makes an excellent cheese known as Latteria, typical of the area, containing only milk, rennet and salt, IOML NWZ Ã&#x2026;^M WZ [Q` UWV\P[ .W[[I LQ +WZU V[ Q[ I \I[\a XZWL]K\ IOML NZWU August to November. His ricotta is delicate, as is his fresh primosale and yoO]Z\ XMZNMK\ NWZ JZMISNI[\ BWNN _WZS[ IZ\Q[IVITTa [\IZ\QVO _Q\P UQTS NZWU his sixty pezzate rosse Italian cows, raised in the open air on natural feed.

CASEIFICIO ZOFF | VIA PARINI, 18 | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | FRAZ. BORGNANO | TEL. 0481 672 04 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 340 361 9874 | WWW.FORMAGGIZOFF.IT

28 SEPTEMBER 2017

XZW^QLM[ KPMIXMZ OI[ _Q\P 1\ITQIV[ TQVQVO ]X \W \ISM IL^IV\IOM WN \PM JIZOIQV <PM 1\ITQIV [QLM PW_M^MZ [MM[ UIVa OZW]X[ WN )][\ZQIV[ /MZUIV[ IVL )UMZQKIV[ ^Q[Q\QVO _QVMZQM[ I \IVOQJTM [QOV \PI\ \PM Collio territory is famous around the world. ¹<PI\ PQTT W^MZ \PMZM Q[ ITZMILa QV ;TW^MVQI º :WJMZ\W .MTT]OI \WTL ][ I[ _M _ITSML IZW]VL \PM ^QVMaIZL[ VMIZ PQ[ MTMOIV\ KW]V\Za ZM[QLMVKM 0Q[ PMK\IZM M[\I\M NWZ MIKP WN PQ[ \_W ^QVMaIZL[ QVKT]LM[ I 7-room inn. He produces mainly whites, some red and a delicate M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT NZWU \PM JQIVKPMZI K]T\Q^IZ <PM M[\I\M :][[Qb ;]XMZQWZM Q[ I TQ\\TM N]Z\PMZ NZWU \PM JWZLMZ QV +IXZQ^I LMT .ZQ]TQ )V MI[a JQSM ZQLM LW_V I KW]V\Za ZWIL K]\[ \PZW]OP I XZM\\a _QVM ZM[WZ\ _Q\P I OWTN KW]Z[M \PM +I[\MTTW LQ ;XM[[I [aVWVaUW][ _Q\P T]`]Za M`KMTTMV\ NWWL IVL _QVM IVL Q\[ PWTM OZMMV 7_VMZ 4WZM\\W 8ITQ Q[ a renowned manufacturer of chilLZMV¼[ N]ZVQ\]ZM J]\ PMZM PM UISM[ ÅVM ,7+ +WTTQW ZML[ IVL _PQ\M[ Guests sleep in princely rooms IVL LQVM WV NWWL NZWU \PM SQ\KPMV WN <WVQVW >MVQKI \PM KPMN I\ \PM <I^MZVM\\I LMT +I[\MTTW 0MZM \PM cucina often calls on seafood prod]K\[ [WUM\QUM[ NZWU \PM ZMTI\Q^MTa LQ[\IV\ <aZZPMVVQIV J]\ UWZM WN\MV NZWU \PM VMIZMZ )LZQI\QK ;W _M [IUXTML \]VI \IZ\IZM _Q\P JZMIL KZW[\QVQ IVL PW][MUILM _I[IJQ wonderfully paired with Collio PiVW\ *QIVKW NZWU \PM +I[\MTTW LQ ;XM[[I <PM _QVM _MV\ MY]ITTa well with a delicate calamari dish [MZ^ML _Q\P b]KKPQVQ [XIOPM\\QVQ and topped with porcini mushZWWU[ )TWVO[QLM I JTIKS [MXXQI QVS ZI^QWTW [MZ^ML _Q\P Å[P ZIOW]\ IVL [MINWWL [I]KM _M LZIVS .ZQ]TIVW WN the same year and the same winery. )TT QV ITT I KPMMZQVO LIa

THE MEAT FLAVORS OF THE COLLIO 1bQLWZ >MTQ[KMS VQKSVIUML ,WZKM Q[ I J]\KPMZ _WZ\P I ^Q[Q\ 0Q[ TIJWZI\Wry and shop, hidden among the Cormòns hills, is the classic country place where everything is still genuine, good, traditional, and simple. With his wife Letizia and son Alessandro, Izidor produces cured meats with the pork from his own pig farm. He raises about sixty duroc-breed pigs, fed in their pens with the farm’s corn, barley, potatoes, vegetables and fruit.

He prepares exquisite cotechino, savory sausages, delicate salami and soppressa, tasty pancetta and guanciale as well as a tasty local specialty with an ugly appearance. Sample it in ragout, frittata or warm on toasted bread. Called Marcondela, it is a sausage made of organ meats, liver, kidney, heart and bloody bits, the classic poor man’s product that is meant to be eaten within a few days.

NORCINERIA VELISCEK | CORMÒNS (GO) | FRAZ. NOVALI | LOC. PLESSIVA, 10 | TEL. 0481 61716

THE OLD FIREPLACE IN LA TAVERNETTA AL CASTELLO

29 SEPTEMBER 2017

TRAVEL

HOSPITALITY AND WINE TASTINGS The best way to get a full picture of Collioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine is to spend an evening at the Enoteca di Cormòns. Its 350 labels from 34 producers, all available to taste and purchase, can be sampled alongside typical Friulano foods in a tavern popular with locals.

The Collio wineries offer visits and tastings: best to reserve. We began in the morning at Russiz Superiore, Roberto Fellugaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 7-room inn among the vineyards.

Here, on the hills of Capriva del Friuli, we tasted exKMTTMV\ _PQ\M[ IVL ZML[ JMOQVVQVO _Q\P +WT ,Q[Â&#x20AC;ZM WVM WN \PM +WTTQWÂź[ UW[\ QUXWZ\IV\ KZ][ I JTMVL WN XQVW\ JQIVKW NZQ]TIVW [I]^QOVWV IVL ZQJWTTI OQITTI OZIXM[ It is fermented in large wooden casks. The estate also produces an award-winning extra-virgin olive oil from bianchera olives.

The winetasting day continued with Roberto PicĂŠch, whose seven hectares of friulano, ribolla gialla, malvasia and other varieties produce 30,000 bottles, mostly indigenous whites. His estate in the Pradis hills of Cormòns also can provide four colorful bedrooms for overnight guests. <PM <QIZM _QVMZaÂź[ ;I]^QOVWV _WV <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL[ in 2013 and 2015. It is a white with great personality IVL Ă&#x2026;VM IZWUI[ ?M \I[\ML Q\ WV I XIVWZIUQK ^MZIVLI just a few meters from the Slovenian border. The winMZa _I[ IT[W VIUML \PM *M[\ -UMZOQVO ?QVMZa QV A visit to Castello di Spessa in Capriva del Friuli ended

THE

with a tasting of whites, reds, and an elegant ribolla gialla sparkling wine made by Loretto Pali. Golf fans can enjoy a spectacular 18-hole golf course or a practise course, stay over in the Castello and experience the cucina of Tonino Venica in the Tavernetta del Castello. ,IUQRIV 8WL^MZ[QKÂź[ wines are fermented in ENOTECA DI CORMĂ&#x2019;NS. UNUSUAL LABELS ON WINES BY THE GLASS tapered, bucket-shaped casks on their skins. =VĂ&#x2026;T\MZML \PMa IZM IOML QV JIZZMT[ WN PMK\WTQters for at least 23 months. This formidable yet poetic winemaker brings a personal vision to his bottles, the expression of â&#x20AC;&#x153;territory, crisp fruit and the vintage yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rhythm.â&#x20AC;? ,IUQIV 8ZQVKQKÂź[ +WTTM ,]OI _QVMZa I NM_ UM\MZ[ NZWU \PM ;TW^MVQIV JWZLMZ XZWL]KM[ \PZMM TIJMT[ +WTTQW *Qanco, with its notes of ripe fruit, full body and length, is made with friulano, malvasia istriana, chardonnay and [I]^QOVWV OZIXM[ ^QVQĂ&#x2026;ML [MXIZI\MTa \PMV I[[MUJTML and bottle-aged.

CORMĂ&#x2019;NS, PIAZZA XXIV MAGGIO, PALAZZO LOCATELLI, ENOTECA DI CORMĂ&#x2019;NS AND THE BELL TOWER OF THE DUOMO DI S. ADALBERTO

30 SEPTEMBER 2017

,IZQW :IKKIZW IVL PQ[ [WV[ 8IWTW IVL 4]KI IT[W QV Cormòns, have a small quality production of four labels: Collio, Malvasia, Merlot and Friulano. The last of \PM[M Q[ Ã&#x2020;WZIT IVL [WN\ _Q\P I Ã&#x2026;VQ[P WN JQ\\MZ ITUWVL and marked mineral notes.

Edi Keber, with her son Kristian, however, produces only one label. Their Progetto Collio is an expression WN \PM PQTT[ WN BMOTI I _QVM UILM UW[\Ta _Q\P NZQ]TIVW with some malvasia istriana and ribolla gialla. It has WN\MV _WV /IUJMZW :W[[W¼[ <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL <PM estate has three apartments for visitors.

Humar, a family-run winery over half a century old, \]ZV[ W]\ Ã&#x2026;N\MMV TIJMT[ QV ;IV .TWZQIVW LMT +WTTQW *Msides various mono-varietal Collio bottles, they make a LMKMV\ 8QKWTQ\ I NZ]Q\a Ã&#x2020;WZIT IVL KWUXTM` LM[[MZ\ _QVM One last jewel is in the Schiopetto winery in Capriva LMT .ZQ]TQ \PM TIJMT LMLQKI\ML \W 5IZQW ;KPQWXM\\W .ZQ]TIVW _Q\P ZQM[TQVO <PQ[ PWUIOM \W \PM _QVMZa NW]VLMZ Q[ \PM Ã&#x2026;Z[\ 1\ITQIV _PQ\M QV \PM <WX ?QVM[ of the World 2016 by James Suckling. Labels from the _QVMZa PI^M _WV <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL[ [QVKM !! *M []ZM \W [MM \PM ;\IVbI LQ 5IZQW 1\ Q[ I ZWWU _Q\P various cisterns for producing indigenous yeasts, established by the innovative Mario Schiopetto, who died in 2003. Today the winery belongs to the Rotolo family, who also own Volpe Pasini on the Colli Orientali del Friuli.

ROBERTO PICÃ&#x2C6;CH | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | LOC. PRADIS, 11 | TEL. 0481 60347 | WWW.PICECH.COM | RUSSIZ SUPERIORE | CAPRIVA DEL FRIULI (GO) | VIA RUSSIZ, 7 | TEL 0481 80328 335 708 0590 | WWW.RUSSIZSUPERIORE.IT CANTINA TIARE | DOLEGNA SUL COLLIO (GO) | LOC. S. ELENA 3/A | TEL. 0481 62491 | WWW.TIAREDOC.COM CASTELLO DI SPESSA WINE RESORT | CAPRIVA DEL FRIULI (GO) | VIA SPESSA 1 | TEL. 0481 808 124 | WWW.CASTELLODISPESSA.IT COLLE DUGA | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | LOC. ZEGLA | TEL 0481 61177 | WWW.COLLEDUGA.COM

ROBERTO FELLUGA

31 SEPTEMBER 2017

DAMIJAN PODVERSIC | GORIZIA | VIA BRIGATA PAVIA, 61 | TEL. 0481 78217 WWW.DAMIJANPODVERSIC.COM EDI KEBER | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | LOC. ZEGLA, 17 | TEL. 0481 61184 | WWW.EDIKEBER.IT HUMAR | SAN FLORIANO DEL COLLIO (GO) | LOC. VALERISCE, 20 | TEL. 0481 884 197 | WWW.HUMAR.IT RACCARO | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | VIA SAN GIOVANNI, 87 | TEL. 0481 61425 | WWW.RACCARO.IT SCHIOPETTO | CAPRIVA DEL FRIULI (GO) | VIA PALAZZO ARCIVESCOVILE, 1 | TEL. 0481 80332 | WWW.SCHIOPETTO.IT

PAN-COOKED CALAMARI IN TAVERNETTA AL CASTELLO

TRAVEL

ADDRESSES WHERE TO EAT AL CACCIATORE DE LA SUBIDA| CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | VIA SUBIDA, 52 | TEL. 0481 60531 | WWW.LASUBIDA.IT | The updated cucina of chef Alessandro Gavagna. Local ingredients and NZM[P _I\MZ Ã&#x2026;[P NZWU VMIZJa ;TW^MVQI <PM MV\QZM ;QZS NIUQTa _WZS[ QV \PM LQVQVO ZWWU AL GIARDINETTO | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | VIA G. MATTEOTTI, 54 | TEL. 0481 60257 | The reign of the ZopXWTI\\Q NIUQTa _Q\P 8IWTW QV \PM SQ\KPen. Local and creative cucina.

AL CASTELLO DI TRUSSIO DELLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AQUILA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ORO | DOLEGNA DEL COLLIO (GO) | LOC. TRUSSIO, 13 | TEL. 0481 61255 | An excellent place to experience the XZWL]K\[ WN \PM \MZZQ\WZa I[ XZM[MV\ML Ja \PM <]\Q NIUQTa LOKANDA DEVETAK | SAVOGNA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ISONZO (GO) | FRAZ. SAN MICHELE DEL CARSO | TEL. 0481 882488 | WWW.DEVETAK.COM | <PQ[ M`KMX\QWVIT \ZI\\WZQI Q[ TQSM \PW[M WN TWVO IOW .IUQTa Z]V Ja \PM ,M^M\IS[ \PMa PI^M \ISMV \]ZV[ I\ \PM PMTU NWZ LMKILM[ IVL IZM ITZMILa I\ \PM Ã&#x2026;N\P OMVMZI\QWV

LA TAVERNETTA AL CASTELLO | CAPRIVA DEL FRIULI (GO) | VIA SPESSA, 7 | TEL. 0481 808 228 | WWW.CASTELLODISPESSA.IT | A rustic res\I]ZIV\ QV \PM /WTN +W]V\Za PW\MT WN +I[\MTTW LQ ;XM[[I ;QUXTQKQ\a [MI[WVITQ\a Y]ITQ\a IVL I XQVKP WN QVVW^I\QWV NZWU KPMN <WVQVW >MVQKI ALLE CASERMETTE DA BEPON | GORIZIA | VIA MONTESANTO, 133 | TEL. 0481 532672 | 1V \PM IOZQ\]ZQ[UW ZM[\I]ZIV\ *Z]UI\ KPMN >ITMV\QVI XZMXIZM[ UIVa LQNNMZMV\ LQ[PM[ _Q\P Rosa di Gorizia radicchio.

ENOTECA DI CORMÃ&#x2019;NS | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | P.ZZA XXIV MAGGIO, 21 | TEL. 0481 630371 | WWW.ENOTECACORMONS.IT | Guided tastings even for just one person. Best to reserve.

AL PONTE | GRADISCA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ISONZO (GO) | V.LE TRIESTE, 122 | TEL. 0481 99213 | WWW.ALBERGOALPONTE.IT | The hand[WUM ZM[\I]ZIV\ _Q\P PW\MT JMTWVOQVO \W )LZQIVI :QbbW\\Q IVL PMZ [WV KPMN 4]KI 8TM\ WNNMZ[ ZM^IUXML TWKIT K]KQVI

FOOD SHOPPING ALIMENTARI TOMADIN | VIA CUMANO, 5 | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | TEL 0481 61305 | ) NWWL [PWX _Q\P UIVa \MUX\I\QWV[" K]ZML UMI\[ KZIN\ KPMM[M[ ZMOQWVIT and not.

32 SEPTEMBER 2017

INFO UFFICIO TURISTICO GORIZIA | C.SO ITALIA, 9 | TEL. 0481 535764 | WWW.TURISMOFVG.IT PUNTO INFO ENOTECA DI CORMÃ&#x2019;NS | P.ZZA XXIV MAGGIO, 21 | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | TEL. 0481 630371 | WWW.ENOTECACORMONS.IT CONSORZIO VINI COLLIO | VIA GRAMSCI, 2 | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | TEL. 0481 630303 | WWW.COLLIO.IT VESPA GIALLA DEL COLLIO | NOLEGGIO ZORGNIOTTI | VIA VINO DELLA PACE | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | TEL 0481 6059 | Ã&#x201A; >M[XI IVL PMTUM\# Ã&#x201A; XI[[MVOMZ PMTUM\ NOLEGGIO BICI NLT-ITALY | VIA MATTEOTTI, 96 | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | TEL. 0481 634044 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 346 855 4972 | WWW.ANTONIOQUAT. WIXSITE.COM/NLTITALY EL CONDOR | V.LE FRIULI, 117 | CORMÃ&#x2019;NS (GO) | TEL. 331 3036160 | WWW.ELCONDORSPORT.IT CAMPER AREAS 1V +WZU V[ 5WV\M 9]IZQV +IXZQ^I LMT .ZQ]TQ IVL >MVK .ZMM IVL _Q\P ]\QTQ\QM[ d 1V 5W[[I _Q\P VW ]\QTQ\QM[ d 4I ;]JQLI PI[ \WQTM\[ _I\MZ NZMM NWZ \PW[M ][QVO other services of the structure.

C:41 M:0 Y:94 K0

Lingotto Fiere Turin November 17th - 19th, 2017

Gourmet Food Festival Making, Tasting, Learning, Buying A square full of taste that fits real foodies 33 SEPTEMBER 2017 www.gourmetfoodfestival.it

EN PRIMEUR | FRANCE

by Costantino Gabardi

BORDEAUX 2016

THE ART OF WAITING 34 SEPTEMBER 2017

T

An exceptional year, for its weather and its unforeseen results.

Thanks to prevention, patience, and the withholding of forced interventions, it was a wonderful vintage.

Our en primeur tastings…

35 SEPTEMBER 2017

he 2016 vintage year was, without a doubt, a disappointment, but there were exceptions, and we found them. Let’s begin though, with taking a step back.

November and December 2015 were the warmest winter months on record since 1920. Then, beginning in January 2016 (and for the following 5 months), the Bordeaux zone experienced a parade of oceanic depressions and storms. The vineyards, in full growing season, had to endure alternating cold and heat until the end of the month of June. The soil IKK]U]TI\ML [QOVQÅKIV\ _I\MZ ZM[MZ^M[ No one could foresee that it was just those reserves that would be essential for facing the prolonged drought that persisted until harvest time.

Not only was it absolutely dry, the period from August 21 to September 13 was also very hot, almost always above 30°C (86°F). The vineyard was remarkably resistant, continuing its evolution. Veraison, which began in early August, was fairly early and homogeneous. In September, the vineyards began to show signs of weakness. At the hottest times of day, the leaves curled up as if to protect themselves from excessive sun. During the cooler nights, the vineyard was able to breathe a bit. Then, on the night of September 13, suddenly, the long-awaited rain arrived: thirty millimeters, enough to rebalance the drought. Was it too late, too early, or just at the right moment? It didn’t matter.

Finally, the soil and the vineyard absorbed the water and overcame the stress.

The skins of the berries softened. The tannins matured. The berries acquired \PM ÆI^WZ WN ZQXM NZ]Q\ <PM PIZ^M[\ JMgan as normal at the beginning of Sep\MUJMZ NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ [I]^QOVWV[ _PQ\M IVL OZIa <PM ÅZ[\ ZML[ _MZM PIZ^M[\ML on the warm soils of the Graves area of Pomerol and Pessac-Léognan around ;MX\MUJMZ >QVQÅKI\QWV[ _MZM ZMO]lar and linear without excessive intervention, a choice that was not simple for the producers who were already anxious about a season at risk. +WTWZ ÆI^WZ IVL \IVVQV [\Z]K\]ZM" M^erything went well, offering a Bordeaux 2016 vintage that we will be talking about for a while.

EN PRIMEUR | FRANCE

2016 Top 10 EXCEPTIONAL Chateau La Conseillante Pomerol 80% MERLOT – 20% CABERNET FRANC

The most incredible La Conseillante of the modern age.

The nose has amazing aromatic purity, with notes of blackberries and raspberZQM[ J]\ IT[W ÆWZIT tones on the nose.

The tannins in the mouth are elegant, giving the wine energy and length. A great wine!

STYLISH Chateau Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 50% MERLOT – 50% CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Intense nose with notes of cassis, blackberry, plum, and recurring spicier tones. The palate is dense and creamy, but freshness gives great length overall. The top, always!

THE ABSOLUTE Chateau Pontet Canet Pauillac

60% CABERNET SAUVIGNON – 39% MERLOT – 1% PETIT VERDOT

The proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon is considerable smaller than in other years because the berries are

all very small. The nose is a mixture of plum and cassis with notes of fresh mint, minerals and KPITS /ZMI\ ÅVM[[M and elegance on the palate. The heart is dense and powerful but not excessive.

Great class.

THE INTROVERT Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac

85% CABERNET SAUVIGNON – 15% MERLOT

Intense bouquet of blackberries and blueberries, with more mineral notes such as pencil lead.

The palate is dense, powerful, and compact, but without a doubt, at a great level of quality. <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ [TQOP\ly closed, but it will evolve without problems.

THE TALENT Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac

83% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 15% MERLOT 1% PETIT VERDOT 1% CABERNET FRANC

A wine with great density on the palate, giving us a glassful of remarkable power and depth. Striking aromatic precision on the nose, with notes of cassis, violets and even stony tones. A grand terroir and a great wine.

THE PROMISE Château Léoville Las Cases Saint-Julien

75% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 14% MERLOT 11% CABERNET FRANC

Notes of black cherries, violets and licorice from Las Cases, which always offers an absolutely classic style. Tannins IZM QVKZMLQJTa ÅVM without excessive concentration.

Freshness gives the wine both length and enormous potential for longevity.

TYPICITY Château Léoville Poyferré Saint-Julien

60% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 33% MERLOT 5% PETIT VERDOT 2% CABERNET FRANC

Very aromatic, with notes of cassis, black cherries and plums. Opulent and dense in the mouth. Lèoville Poyferré offers us a velvety and creamy tannic _MI^M <PM ÅVQ[P is long and leaves notes of pencil lead.

FINESSE Château Cos d’Estournel Saint-Estèphe 76% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 23% MERLOT 1% CABERNET FRANC

Known for often being extraordinary, Cos d’Estournel 2016 is certainly

the most classic. With fewer jammy notes than in the past, it offers a large aromatic palate of black fruit, J]\ IT[W UQVMZIT IVL ÆWZIT notes. It has great elegance in the mouth, and is at the same time dense, but without any aggressiveness. A great Cos.

THE OUTSIDER Château Pavie Maquin Saint-Emilion 82% MERLOT 16% CABERNET FRANC 2% CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Typical of the limestone plateau of Saint-Emilion, the wine’s nose and palate express the very mineral typicity of its territory.

Little red berries, blond tobacco with a vanilla note on the nose. The palate is silky, dense, and blessed by freshness that makes for a vibrant blend.

THE TERROIR Clos Fourtet Saint-Emilion

90% MERLOT 8% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2% CABERNET FRANC

Without excess, without heaviness, the 2016 has an ultra-fine tannic structure despite great concentration. The blend is of a great elegance and notable persistence in the mouth. The finish displays the chalky notes that are typical of this great terroir.

2016 The 10 classics Château Figeac Saint-Emilion

38% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 36% MERLOT 26% CABERNET FRANC

A great Figeac. Sublime texture, silky and richly elegant at the same time. The aromatic palette is laden with berries and cassis, but also VW\M[ WN NWZM[\ ÆWWZ spices, pencil shavQVO[ <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ long, on saline notes \PI\ OQ^M OZMI\ ÆI^WZ \W \PQ[ wine.

Château Lynch Bages Pauillac

75% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 19% MERLOT - 4% CABERNET FRANC - 2% PETIT VERDOT

Powerful, rich and concentrated in the mouth with notes of blackberry jam, cream of cassis. Balance comes from wonderful freshness that is the backbone of the blend and assures power and a promising future.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac

75% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 21% MERLOT 4% CABERNET FRANC

Pichon Comtesse is known NWZ \PM ÅVM[[M IVL LMTQcacy of its tannins, but this vintage year offers more

but still has good concentration and excellent acidity.

The blend certainly produces one of the best wines of Margaux.

substance in the mouth. The texture is fatter and creamier than in the past. It maintains its own personality, but has substance, and proves to be one of the best from Pauillac.

Château d’Alesme Becker Margaux

62% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 30% MERLOT 5% PETIT VERDOT 3% CABERNET FRANC

Made in a remarkably modern style, Marquis d’Alesme reclaims its position after many vintage years. Dense and powerful in the mouth, it offers a grand aromatic palette with fruity IVL ÆWZIT VW\M[ J]\ IT[W [WUM NWZM[\ ÆWWZ IVL mineral shades.

Château Haut Bailly Pessac-Léognan

53% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 40% MERLOT 4% PETIT VERDOT 3% CABERNET FRANC

The 2016 version offers us a classic style without excesses. Along with notes of cassis and black cherries, it also displays discreet hints of wood on the nose. The mouth has a very silky texture and ]T\ZI ÅVM \IVVQV[

Château L’Enclos Tourmaline Pomerol 100% MERLOT

This little cru, made up of three exceptional parcels located in the midst of the great names of Pomerol, provides a dense wine with a tannic texture elegantly closed. An explosion of black fruit and violets on the nose. It has rattled the protocol and the history of the Pomerol appellation for many years.

Château Marquis de Terme Margaux

60% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 35% MERLOT 5% PETIT VERDOT

Constantly progressing over the last ten years, this cru displays a very _MTT LMÅVML with notes of cassis, raspberry and violets. The tannic texture is more reÅVML \PIV QV

Clos Saint Martin Saint-Emilion

80% MERLOT 20% CABERNET FRANC

37 SEPTEMBER 2017

Only 1.33 hectares, this is the smallest of the Grand Cru Classé of Saint Emilion.

Situated on a limestone plateau, Clos Saint Martin is a jewel-like vineyard.

Grand aromatic purity on the nose, with notes of gooseberry and raspberry. The tannic texture is a marvel of elegance and offers enormous concentration. Freshness gives length to the whole. A protected cru in the heart of the village.

Château Phélan Ségur Saint-Estèphe

55% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 45% MERLOT

Of exemplary regularity for many years, Phélan Ségur offers a complex bouquet of cassis, LZQML ÆW_MZ[ IVL fresh mint. The palate is always extremely classic, without exuberance but dependably precise, correct and not austere.

Château Lafon Rochet Saint-Estèphe

67% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 25% MERLOT 2% PETIT VERDOT 6% CABERNET FRANC

In a more balanced style than in 2015, the wine offers notes of black fruit, menthol and pencil lead. The mouth is very elegant without heaviness or excesses. Balance is achieved.

EN PRIMEUR | FRANCE

2016 The 10 challenges Château Tour Saint Christophe Saint-Emilion 80% MERLOT 20% CABERNET FRANC

A property located on the clay-limestone plateau of Saint-Emilion, it began its metamorphosis a few years ago. Today it is not KTI[[QÅML IVL Q[ WVM of the contenders for the Classement de Saint-Emilion that takes place every 10 years.

(The next will be in 2022).

The nose is an explosion of black fruit such as cherries and blackberries. The palate is dense and creamy. This is absolutely a great wine.

Clos du Clocher Pomerol

80% MERLOT 20% CABERNET FRANC

Located on the Pomerol plateau between Trotanoy and La Fleur Pétrus, the Clos du Clocher is once again being talked about. The merlot grapes bring notes of black fruit IVL UQVMZIT ÆWZIT notes to the blend.

The Cabernet Franc contrib]\M[ ÅVM[[M IVL MVMZOa

Château Grand Mayne Saint-Emilion 75% MERLOT 20% CABERNET FRANC 5% CABERNET SAUVIGNON

toasted tones on the nose.

The mouth is round, suave IVL ÆI^WZN]T

Château Pédesclaux Pauillac

Located on the coast, the western slope of the village, Grand Mayne Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Emilion has the substance of a premier cru. Black cherries and raspberries are interwoven with chalky notes on the nose. The palate is dense and suave. The tannic weave is elegantly closed, with great class, as ever.

48% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 45% MERLOT 4% PETIT VERDOT 3% CABERNET FRANC

The property underwent a metamorphosis some years ago. Located near Pontet Cantet, its wine is more and more precise as the years pass.

The nose is complex, with vanilla and roasted notes.

The palate is dense, fairly tannic and displays good length.

Château Villemaurine Saint-Emilion 80% MERLOT 20% CABERNET FRANC

Château Saint Pierre Saint Julien

Located in the heart of the limestone plateau of Sainte-Emilion, Villemaurine is a constant for quality.

Notes of red fruit show no excessive ripening. The tannic texture is tender, of great elegance.

7V \PM ÅVQ[P UMV\PWTI\ML notes reappear.

73% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 21% MERLOT 6% CABERNET FRANC

In the heart of Saint Julien, not far from Gruaud Larose, this wine Q[ I ÅVM M`XZM[[QWV of Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of cassis, licorice and pencil lead.

The mouth is still fairly closed, but it has good concentration that will soften with time.

Château Labegorce Margaux

52% MERLOT 38% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 6% CABERNET FRANC 4% PETIT VERDOT

Château Clerc Millon Pauillac

Located in the heart of Margaux, this cru produces a wine of pure pleasure. On notes of violets and blueberry with spicier,

55% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 29% MERLOT 2% PETIT VERDOT 13% CABERNET FRANC 1% CARMENÈRE

Near Lafite Rothschild, this

38 SEPTEMBER 2017

property produces wines of great purity and wonderful finesse. The nose expresses aromas of currants and raspberries, sustained by balsamic notes and forest floor tones. The tannic weave is fine, soft, and wonderfully fresh.

Château Meyney Saint-Estèphe

60% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 25% MERLOT 15% PETIT VERDOT

Located along the estuary of the Gironde near Montrose, this property produces a wine of great elegance.

Aromas of blackberry jam sustained by toasty notes on the nose.

In the mouth, a dense, compact wine that needs a bit more time. It is built to last over the years.

Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan

50% MERLOT 44% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 4% PETIT VERDOT 2% CABERNET FRANC

The 2016 vintage year was sunny and dry, ideal for this property. Expressive in its black fruit notes, with NWZM[\ ÆWWZ IVL spicy tones. The XITI\M Q[ ZMÅVML Tannic weave is reÅVML IVL MTMOIV\ Good length in the mouth.

2016 The 10 bets Château Fonbadet Pauillac

67% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 25% MERLOT 5% PETIT VERDOT 3% CABERNET FRANC

This Pauillac property owns a vineyard that lies between Pontet Canet and Pichon Comtesse.

2016 gave a very aromatic wine with marked mineral notes. In the mouth, the texture is ultra[WN\ IVL ÅVM _Q\P I TWVO ÅVQ[P WV VW\M[ WN ZI[XJMZZQM[ IVL LZQML ÆW_MZ[

Château Laroque Saint-Emilion

87% MERLOT 11% CABERNET FRANC 2% CABERNET SAUVIGNON

One of the largest properties of SaintEmilion, located on the clay and limestone plateau. For two years, the property has been giving good results. The nose of the 2016 is a mix of red berries: raspberries, blackberries with a touch of menthol. The palate is wellLMÅVML _Q\P UMLQ]U KWVKMVtration.

Château Corbin Saint-Emilion

89% MERLOT 11% CABERNET FRANC

Located north of SaintEmilion on sandy-iron soil,

teau, Chambrun produces a dense and powerful wine with notes of cherries, blueberries, a touch of citron, and grilled bread. The palate is dense and creamy. Fairly opulent but not heavy. Acidity lends length in the blend.

Corbin 2016 offers a very delicate nose of berries. The tanVQK \M`\]ZM Q[ ÅVM elegant and a little KTW[ML WV \PM ÅVish because acidity tends to do its part.

This gives an appealing, very seductive wine. Promising!

Château Sociando Mallet Haut-Médoc 50% MERLOT 45% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 5% CABERNET FRANC

The estate is located north of Saint-Estéphe, on a gravel plateau facing the Riviera, worth of the greatest terroirs of the Médoc. The wine is very aroUI\QK _Q\P ÆWZIT IVL mentholated notes.

The palate is ultraMTMOIV\ <IVVQV[ IZM ÅVM J]\ closed. Pleasant freshness from the beginning to the end of the palate.

Château Gazin Rocquencourt

PESSAC LÉOGNAN 55% MERLOT 40% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 5% CABERNET FRANC

Located in Léognan, not far from Domaine de Chevalier, the estate belongs to the Bonnie family, owners of Malartic Lagravière. For now, it is less well-known that its older sister.

Gazin Rocquencourt makes an ultra-seductive wine full of fruit, with notes of limestone sustained by vanilla and toasted aromas. The palate is suave and velvety. A pleasure!

Château Siran Margaux

46% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 44% MERLOT 9% PETIT VERDOT 1% CABERNET FRANC

Siran is near Château Dauzac. The 2016 is brilliant. Its nose is an explosion of fruit. On the palate, tannic weave is soft and silky. Medium concentration.

The wine has admirable length in the mouth.

Château de Chambrun Lalande de Pomerol 69% MERLOT 25% CABERNET FRANC 6% CABERNET SAUVIGNON

This appellation near Pomerol is a little in the background, but estates like Chambrun are worth a look. Situated on a gravel pla-

Château Belgrave Haut-Médoc

69% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 28% MERLOT 3% PETIT VERDOT 39

SEPTEMBER 2017

The 2016 offers us a wonderful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. An aromatic nose of cassis, roses and minerals. On the palate, the tannic texture is closed, but gives great character to this example of Haut-Médoc.

Château La Pointe Pomerol 83% MERLOT 17% CABERNET FRANC

A very interesting vintage year. On the nose, it offers black cherry and plum but also notes WN NWZM[\ ÆWWZ <PM palate is suave and delicate, sustained by freshness afforded by acidic backbone. A great Pomerol to hold in the cellar.

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Pessac-Léognan

41% CABERNET FRANC 20% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 39% MERLOT

Atypical of the Pessac Léognan appellation, but it will be interesting to follow. Les Carmes Haut Brion are, as the name indicates, not very far from the star of the appellation. In 2016, a high percentage of Cabernet Franc gives the _QVM ^MZa ÆWZIT ZW[M XM\IT notes and red berry tones. <PM XITI\M Q[ ]T\ZI ÅVM IVL delicate.

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. NO. 1308/2013

TRENDS

by Stefano Polacchi

FERMENTATION

COOKING WITH BACTERIA Yogurt, kefir, kombucha, soy sauce, miso, tempeh: fermented products are present on every supermarket shelf. Fermentation is an ancient technique of conservation and purification of foods that is having a new day in kitchens everywhere.

Many chefs are using fermented products in their dishes. Food becomes healthier and flavors are amplified. Even at home, grandmothersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; methods are returning

TRENDS

T

he noisy technological bubble in the kitchen is beginning to fade and ‘new’ methods are taking its place. It’s not that technology is disappearing, but it’s no longer the protagonist in the professional kitchens of Italy and the world. Cooks have begun to take back into their own hands the reins of their stoves and their ingredients. Fermentation methods that have always been used to preserve foods are coming back and arousing the passions of many cooks, young but also older ones, and stimulating their curiosity. The approach is also making headway in homes, among people who are concerned with health and the digestibility of foods, with natural products and their ability to provide nutrients. In a recent interview (in Italian on the www.gamberorosso.it site), Salvatore Tassa

(chef at Le Colline Ciociare in the town of Acuto, outside Rome) describes how he has radically changed his creative approach.

He asserts that he is profoundly convinced that using fermentation techniques, especially if paired with cold extraction methods, is the real way to do territory-based cooking. “Nothing embodies the individual location as much as indigenous bacteria, the children of their territory. Every place has different bacteria that interact with NWWL[ OQ^QVO \PMU ]VQY]M ÆI^WZ[ and aromas.” He is so convinced of this that he spent a few weeks in Paris, in the kitchen of Yannick Alléno at Ledoyen, where thousands of bottles full of vegetables in water and salt have been fermenting for years, waiting to be tested by one of France’s most important kitchens and served to wealthy guests seeking out emotions and 42 SEPTEMBER 2017

surprises at the table.

Along with Tassa, many Italian chefs have been working with this time-honored method for a while.

Fermentation was common before refrigeration was invented and where climates did not permit fresh ingredients during many months of the year. It wasn’t so much grandmothers’ recipes that brought fermentation on to center stage, but the young, curious, creative interpreters of the New Nordic Cuisine. Now, thanks to them, many Mediterranean cooks are rediscovering these archaic tools.

Enrico Mazzaroni, an intellectual chef from the Marche region with two university degrees (International Law and History of Religion), studied modern approaches to fermentation developed by his Nordic colleagues, working in his mountains of Montemonaco, before an earthquake in October of

To the left, cabbage and potatoes from Niko Romito.

Thanks to the use of NMZUMV\I\QWV ÆI^WZ IVL KWV[Q[\MVKa UISM \PQ[ ^MOM\IJTM IV M`KMTTMV\ UIQV LQ[P )JW^M I ^MOM\IJTM OIZLMV XTI\M IVL \ZW]\ Ja ;IT^I\WZM Tassa, two historic dishes that the Acuto chef has returned to in the light of concentrating and NMZUMV\QVO ^MOM\IJTM[ On the opening page of this article, boiled kid from chef Cristiano Tomei, prepared in his Imbuto ZM[\I]ZIV\ QV 4]KKI 0M [MZ^M[ it with eggplant and a sauce of wild herbs, both fermented.

PHOTO BY

BRAMBILLA SERRANI PHOTOGRAPHERS

43 SEPTEMBER 2017

FERMENTATION ALL’ITALIANA Italy, a country blessed with fresh fruits and vegetables, doesn’t have a strong tradition of fermentation beyond such things as anchovy colatura, salami, and a sauce of fermented tomato. Of course, bread and pizza are in a class by themselves. But Italians are beginning to UISM aWO]Z\ IVL SMÅZ I\ PWUM IVL even tempeh. Despite the lack of tradition, chefs are showing creativity. Nicolas Arduini (see his recipe) [MTT[ SWUJ]KPI IVL SMÅZ L¼IKY]I I\ the Mercato di Santo Spirito in Florence and prepares delicious combiVI\QWV[ WN NZ]Q\ IVL SMÅZ L¼IKY]I kombutcha and also mead. A Tuscan country woman came to Katz’ course with her artichoke hearts, fermented for two weeks and then oil preserved: a year later, they are still excellent. When fermenting at home, sterilize containers thoroughly before use, as for jam.

TRENDS

Cristiano Tomei: below, spaghetti with fermented bread sauce. )JW^M ¹:ML U]TTM\ NZWU 4Q^WZVW 7[ISI IVL .TWZMVKMº _Q\P UQ[W IVL JZW\P WN NMZUMV\ML ^MOM\IJTM[

2016 destroyed his restaurant, Tiglio, forcing him to move to the Adriatic shore, to Porto Recanati. In his version of acquacotta (literally, cooked water), one of the most basic dishes in peasant cucina, he uses fermented radicKPQW 1\ MVZQKPM[ ÆI^WZ IVL TMVL[ elegance to the dish. “I discovered that the ideas and practices of Nordic cooking are extremely close to my sensibility and to my situation, in terms of both ingredients and techniques,” explained Enrico. “I found it to be a more immediate and simple cucina.” He explored this philosophy by following Magnus Nilsson, the Swedish chef of Fäviken Magasinet whose 12-place restaurant is in the woods of Järpen. “I also came across lactic fermentation in the kitchen of a family trattoria where a Romanian woman was working, washing dishes. She taught us to preserve

Enrico Mazzaroni: lacto-fermented apricots, paired with red mullet consommé or red mullet ragout on spaghetti

RECIPE PANCAKES

FOR RECYCLING MOTHER DOUGH

vegetables in a 2% salt solution. It works for every vegetable. Washed and cleaned, the vegetables are marinated in water and salt for a week at room temperature. When bubbles begin to appear, it means that fermentation has begun. You put it in the refrigerator and it’s good for two to three weeks. Then, studying and observing my colleagues from northern Europe, I saw that you can do the same thing even better with vacuum packing.

The clean vegetables go into a bag with 2% of their weight in salt and kept cool for about two weeks.

They’re ready when the vacuum bag swells. At this point, you wash them and can put them back in the refrigerator, vacuum-packed, where they will keep for a long time.” So now, on the shores of the Adriatic where he has opened his new restaurant, Tiglio al Mare, he uses that method to pair red mullet

with apricots. “We love the pairing WN IKQLQ\a _Q\P Å[P <PM KWV\ZI[\ that apricot gives is really fantas\QK M[XMKQITTa ITWVO[QLM I Å[P _Q\P character, like red mullet.” Lacticfermented apricots, smoked and stored in the dark, in a 3% saline solution, are served both with a mullet-head broth and a mullet ragout on spaghetti. These are terri\WZQIT ÆI^WZ[ M^MV \PW]OP KZMI\Q^M that embody a contemporary view of a distant past.

“I grew up with fermentation. I _I[ \PM ÅZ[\ º <][KIV KPMN +ZQ[tiano Tomei told us. He was in his restaurant, Imbuto, in Lucca’s Lu.C.C.A (Center for Contemporary Art). “My grandfather was a farmer. Fermentation was part of our lives. Besides, of course, wine, we used to conserve radishes. We put them in water, vinegar and sugar. They did the rest themselves. Radishes are very earthy 45 SEPTEMBER 2017

Dedicated to those who cherish their own mother dough for natural baking. If you don’t need to make bread, but have to refresh the mother dough, use the leftover dough to make pancakes. If you have no mother dough, make some _Q\P _I\MZ IVL ÆW]Z Q\ KIV JM rye, millet, or even teff, dark IVL OT]\MV NZMM 5Q` \PM ÆW]Z IVL _I\MZ 1\ [PW]TL ÆW_ NZWU a spoon, but also stick to its surface. Close hermetically.

After 2 days, a foam appears on the surface. The mother dough is ready. To maintain, refresh once or twice weekly.

Remove 70% of the dough, add NZM[P _I\MZ IVL ÆW]Z +PMKS the consistency again with a spoon. The dough removed can be utilized for savory pancakes. Cut or grate leftover KWWSML ^MOM\IJTM[ )LL ÆW]Z and fresh water and leave to rise again. The day after, add sodium bicarbonate (a teaspoon for 500 ml of batter) to UISM \PM XIVKISM[ Æ]NÅMZ IVL sweeter – it neutralizes the lactic acid of the mother dough.

You can add eggs and cheese to the batter. Cook in a frying pan like pancakes.

and tend to have a very strong ÆI^WZ <PMa ZM[MUJTM \PM XQKSTML onions people used to make. Turnip tops are suitable for fermentation too. They also have an earthy quality that the process enhances. .MZUMV\I\QWV Q[ N]V QV \MZU[ WN ÆIvor,” Cristiano explained. “It has a wide, complex aromatic spectrum. You start with an excellent product and you notch it up. I also

TRENDS

RECIPE WATER KEFIR ?I\MZ SMÅZ Q[ U]KP [W]OP\ INter by vegans and the lactose intolerant. The yeasts used are not the same as those for milk SMÅZ J]\ OZIV]TM[ _Q\P LQNNMZent yeasts and bacteria. Use a [XWWVN]T WN SMÅZ OZIV]TM[ NWZ a liter of water (or coconut water – excellent). Proceed as NWZ KTI[[QK SMÅZ 5Q` QV I KTMIV OTI[[ KWV\IQVMZ ,W VW\ ÅTT \W brim. Close and ferment for 2 days. Filter and drink. KeÅZ OZIV]TM[ UIa JM ZM][ML WZ discarded along with organic refuse for compost.

ADDRESSES LE COLLINE CIOCIARE | ACUTO (FR) | VIA PRENESTINA, 27 | TEL. 0775 56049 | WWW.SALVATORETASSA.IT

OSTERIA FERNANDA | ROMA | VIA C. DEL MONTE, 18 | TEL. 06 589 4333 | WWW.OSTERIAFERNANDA.COM

IL REALE | CASTEL DI SANGRO (AQ) | LOC. CASADONNA | PIANA SANTA LIBERATA SNC | TEL. 0864 69382 | WWW.RISTORANTEREALE.IT

NICOLAS ARDUINI | FIERUCOLA AL MERCATO DI SANTO SPIRITO | FIRENZE | P.ZZA DI SANTO SPIRITO, 5 |

IL TIGLIO IN VITA | PORTO RECANATI (MC) | V.LE SCARFIOTTI, 47 | TEL. 071 979 8839

ASSOCIAZIONE KEFIR | COMUNITÀ ERRANTE DI FERMENTI INDIPENDENTI E RIVOLUZIONARI | FIRENZE | VIA A. MARI, 5 | WWW.ASSOCIAZIONEKEFIR.IT

L’IMBUTO AL LU.C.C.A. | LUCCA | VIA DELLA FRATTA, 36 | TEL. 340 5758092 | WWW.LIMBUTO.IT

OGNI TERZA DOMENICA DEL MESE WWW.LAFIERUCOLA.ORG

|

SANDOR E. KATZ | WWW.WILDFERMENTATION.COM

Nicolas Arduini at his stand of NMZUMV\ML JM^MZIOM[ QV .TWZMVKM

RECIPE ELDERBERRY WATER KEFIR

(Recipe

by Nicolas Arduini) Ingredients: for one liter of water, 40 g sugar and 40 ml elderberry syrup (made with wa\MZ []OIZ MTLMZJMZZa ÆW_MZ[ TMUWV R]QKM # ILL O TQ^M SMÅZ ferment in granules, a slice of lemon and a mint leaf. Dissolve sugar in water in a large jar. Add the other ingredients and close the jar. Leave at room temperature, away from heat and direct light, for 2 days, mixing once a day. Strain, transfer to sterile bottles and close hermetically.

Leave at room temperature for 8 more hours to develop carbonI\QWV <PMV XTIKM SMÅZ QV ZMfrigerator for two more days to ripen. Take care when opening – it pops. Drink cold, with ice. Refrigerated, it is good for a week.

like paradoxes. You close your eyes and you’re eating panzanella. But if you leave panzanella at room \MUXMZI\]ZM \PM \WUI\W IKQLQÅM[ and is not good for you. However, I use bread in panzanella and I handle it with a method from Lithuania, the country my wife is from. I take the black bread that is used in Lithuania for making beer, place it in water and let it ferment in the sun. Then I use it for topping spaghetti along with curry XTIV\ ÆW_MZ[ PMTQKPZa[]U XIQZQVO it with shrimps or even on its own with good Parmigiano Reggiano.

Fermented bread has a powerful taste and all the heightened aromas of fresh bread - iodine, minerals, yeast. Now it has become a chic technique, but it comes from peasant culture, from the poor.

And it gives you the opportunity to [\MX ]X ÆI^WZ[ º Leaving aside Niko Romito who, thanks to fermentation, has 47 SEPTEMBER 2017

Eel with fermented ^MOM\IJTM[ IVL ZQKM NZWU ,I^QLM ,MT ,]KI

TRENDS

launched a new concept, presenting cabbage as a main course (see the Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food from March, 2017), another young emerging chef who uses fermentation a great deal is Davide Del Duca, owner of the Osteria Fernanda in Rome, where he is giving new stimuli to one of the UW[\ ÆI^WZN]T OI[\ZWVWUQK \ZILQtions of Italy. “I like to have strong and complex acidity without necessarily using citrus fruit. For examXTM 1 XIQZ I XW_MZN]T NI\\a Å[P TQSM eel with rice and radicchio, daikon and rapini. I leave the vegetables in

pomegranate juice for two weeks, then vacuum pack them at 60 degrees centigrade for 10 minutes.

The rice is cooked, then put aside in its own water together with sugar, then fermented for about three weeks. Before using it, I boil it again for a few minutes and then make a sauce of acidic rice. The food also becomes more digestible and, from the nutritional point of view,

more complete,” Davide said. “I often serve fermented food with fatty ingredients. Since the IKQLQ\a Q[ ^MZa PQOP Q\[ ÆI^WZ should be paired with a fatty one so that it doesn’t dominate. It’s a simple technique, that you can easily do at home, and it’s very inexpensive. Everything can be fermented, from vegetables to meat, and even cheeses, starting, perhaps with dried fruit pits. We mostly work with vegetables - 90% of what we do. We ferment loquats to make chutney that we serve with duck and hazelnuts. Or zucchini...”

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013

Amarone della Valpolicella Great family prestige from 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

TRENDS | THE PERSONALITY

The guru Sandor

by Elvan Uysal

B

Katz

of the stoveless kitchen

PHOTO BY

SEAN MINTEH

acterial activity has been seen for millennia as God’s hand on the earth. Its magic wand turns grapes into wine, barley into beer. Its spell makes products last all winter in places where nothing grows during the long, cold season. It swells the water and flour dough for bread.

Then Pasteur arrived. He removed the mask from bacteria. Many microorganisms appeared, amusing themselves with alchemy’s games.

This launched the era of sterilization, hygiene, bacterial selection, vaccines. Today, after 150 years of battling against bacteria and their hyper-selection, we’re in the midst of a revolution, one that praises what’s wild. We want wines fermented with indigenous, spontaneous yeasts i.e. bacteria, the most natural possible beers, wild foods, among them cheeses.

To understand something about this, we spent two days in Tuscany with Sandor Ellix Katz, a true guru of wild fermentation of vegetables and fruit. His name doesn’t mean much in Italy since his many books in English have not yet been translated. But in the little fan club world of spontaneous fermentation of foods, Katz is a rock star. The New York Times dedicated a short documentary to this guru-in-spite-ofhimself. Katz has been working with fermentation for 25 years.

He came to Italy to describe his experiences at the Komunità Errante Kefir led by Annalisa Nardi and Tomáš Jelinek, an intensive

50 SEPTEMBER 2017

workshop to teach the rules of home fermentation, and foster the realization that there are no rules. Born in New York, Katz is politically active and works in the field of communication. When he found out that he was HIV positive, he decided to change his life.

He moved to Tennessee, joining a community where he began his love affair with fermentation. It has become his way of fighting disease: a healthy life, healthy and tasty food that is good for body and spirit. “For me, fermentation is above all a question of taste,” Sandor affirmed. “I believe in doctors and in both traditional and alternative medicine. I aim to take the best of everything. I don’t believe there is only one way to think and live. The sky is the limit: that’s my motto. My recipes and teachings are not dogma.

I am simply sharing my experiences.” There is probably no fer-

mented food on earth that he has not tasted, but he doesn’t consider himself an authority.

Why does fermentation make food better? “Because it undergoes a kind of pre-digestion by the bacteria. The body absorbs and digests this kind of food more easily,” Sandor explained. “This food is alive. It enriches the bacterial flora in our digestive system. Just as biodiversity is important for the earth’s equilibrium, the microcosm of our body is healthier with a rich bacterial flora. The immune system benefits.” There are many studies and contrasting opinions on this subject. The most enthusiastic sustain that the bacterial flora that live in our body also influence our state of mind. About this, Sandor said, “It can aid digestion, boost the immune system, might help prevent cancer. But if I had a brain tumor, I’d let a doctor treat me.” He went on,“I don’t think

ŞALGAM

Şalgam is a drink from the southeastern part of Turkey, a culinary jewel still unknown by the international healthy-eating culture. Şalgam is the name of a kind of turnip. Along with the purple carrot, very common in Turkey, it is the principal ingredient in this nonalcoholic beverage, an excellent partner for kebabs. Low-calorie, it has a savory, pungent ÆI^WZ <W UISM Q\ ZMY]QZM[ IJW]\ X]ZXTM KIZZW\[ IVL Å^M TQ\MZ[ WN [IT\ _I\MZ OZIU[ of salt per liter). Şalgam originally was fermented with the help of setik, the powder that is left after grinding bulgur. A little ground bulgur or bread crumbs may be substituted.

The setik is tightly wrapped in gauze - it looks like a tennis ball - and placed on the bottom of a glass jar. Peel the carrots, cut into four vertical pieces, and place vertically in the jar. Add salt water and seal hermetically. Ferment for two weeks in the dark at room temperature.

The longer the salgam ferments, the stronger \PM ÆI^WZ 7XMV \PM RIZ ZMUW^M \PM OI]bM JITT strain and drink. It can last for 3-4 months.

51 SEPTEMBER 2017

that this living food can make us better-looking or younger. If that were true, I wouldn’t have such grey hair at 55 years old.”

Fermentation is the oldest food preservation method. Our ancestors, living in caves, knew how to ferment honey, mixing it with water. There are some anthropologists who hold that the real reason why humankind went from nomadism to a more sedentary life was not agriculture, but the desire to make alcoholic beverages, the desire to add another dimension to reality. If fermented food isn’t beer, it’s a close relative.

In a world without refrigeration, fermentation is vitally important.

Its function is to keep a supply of food available. In countries with extreme climates, such as northern Europe and Asia, fermentation is an essential part of culinary tradition. These countries have the greatest range of fermenta-

TRENDS | THE PERSONALITY

MEAD Mead is believed to JM \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ NMZUMV\ML drink. Even our stoneage ancestors made it.

The Romans knew and loved it as well. Sandor Katzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; mead is very simXTM 0M ][M[ PWVMa IVL _I\MZ <PM formula can vary depending on the desired result. The more honey used, the more alcohol develops at the end.

3I\b IT[W ][M[ Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ WZ NZ]Q\ \W ^IZa \PM Ă&#x2020;Ivor. Dissolve the honey in non-chlorinated wa\MZ IVL _IQ\ LIa[ ;\QZ M^MZa LIa )N\MZ days, it may be placed in the refrigerator, where the fermentation slows and the drink becomes more aromatic.

CRISTALLI PER IL KEFIR Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ACQUA

tion practices. The most classic is milk. It is a food that easily spoils, but when it becomes yogurt, kefir or cheese, its life is prolonged by days, even years.

Everything, from the soil to vegetables, from stones to the human body, is colonized by bacteria.

When the bacterial colony is in the right place at the right time, it causes flavorful fermentation. Humans, taking note of this, influence the environment, modifying it to achieve the right habitat for positive microorganisms, which then are preserved for generations. A partnership between humans and bacteria develops, to the benefit of both. Some bacteria (or funguses) are guaranteed a future. Humans enjoy flavors and the healthful properties of foods processed by bacteria, even if they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t immediately realize it.

Today, for some, eating well has developed into a kind of resistance

movement to the homogenization that globalization brings with it.

The title of Katzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; book, <PM :M^WT]\QWV ?QTT 6W\ JM 5QKZW_I^ML" 1V[QLM )UMZQKIÂź[ =VLMZOZW]VL .WWL 5W^Mments, says it all. Many groups are opposing a system that tends to monopolize and destroy everything that is close to the world of bacteria. Katz sees the practice of fermenting food as a form of revolution, with small groups and individuals standing up to power. But can they really save the world, or move towards a new one through fermentation? Ken Loach, presenting his film, once said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Art canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t change the world.

We can only change the world by taking a position.â&#x20AC;? In Katzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; philosophy, choosing fermentation is taking a position. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fermentation,â&#x20AC;? he explained, â&#x20AC;&#x153;cooks food without needing a source of energy. It preserves it and lengthens its life, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an excellent method for re52 SEPTEMBER 2017

ducing the ecological impact of an individual on the earth. If this trend became a mass movement, it could reduce the number of refrigerators in supermarkets and homes, cut down on the use of gas and electric stoves.” In the United States, Katz is part of an underground food movement, outside any organized circuit, that emphasizes what’s good and healthy.

What Katz is doing is recognizing in bacteria their rightful role - in the middle of our lives, where they are, always have been, always will be. “They are our partners, our best friends. When we give them the right environment, we take care of each other.” He talks of them in human terms. “Fermentation is like a dance. the Aspergillus oryzae fungus, or koji, the indispensable yeast in Asian products like soy sauce and miso, puts on a real dance, with its own rhythm and choreography. It begins with small effervescent bubbles, speeds up, matures, slows down, and finally, rests.” But at the end of the performance, the food is more easily assimilated, vitamins and minerals are more available. “In some cases, fermentation adds nutritional value, such as vitamins B and K,” said Sandor. “A good example is Japanese natto, soy beans fermented by the activity of a variety of Bacillus subtilis. It is consumed when close to putrefaction.” But isn’t it horrible? “Certainly, natto is not easy to face for the first time,” he admitted. “It requires an educated palate, but it is clearly one of the most nutritious and beneficial foods in the world. It contains a large amount of vitamin K, thanks to fermentation. There are studies that show that thanks to the high content of vitamin K, natto not only helps prevent osteoporosis, but in some cases, it can cure it.”

FRUIT KVASS Kvass is an ancient fermented drink from the Russian tradition. It is an excellent example of how to purify water that is not bacterially drinkable. Authentic kvass is made with beets and salt water, fermented with the help of rye bread. Any vegetable or fruit can be used instead of beets.

Kvass made with loY]I\[ Q[ VW\ \PM WZQOQnal version, but it is very good. Place the whole fruit, unpeeled, in a jar. Add sugar to taste and water. Close and leave to ferment for four weeks. Open, ÅT\MZ IVL [MZ^M 1\ Q[ a low-alcohol drink, and very easy to personalize.

53 SEPTEMBER 2017

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Stefano Polacchi photos by Gianni Antoniali

Friuli's cucina has a thousand facets, draws from many sources, and is deeply rooted in the region's vineyards, mountains and seashore. Emanuele Scarello is probably the strongest voice among those that trumpet the flavors of this zone. He is also the one who looks to the future.

"If tradition isn't renewable, then it doesn't make much sense."

Emanuele Scarello FRIULI VINEYARDS AND SEA 55 SEPTEMBER 2017

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

â&#x20AC;&#x153;THE BEST TRADITION IS THE ONE YOU CAN UPDATEâ&#x20AC;?

From a small grocery and tobacco shop, the Scarello family business \ZIV[NWZUML Q\[MTN QV\W WVM WN 1\ITa [ JM[\ LQVQVO ZWWU[ <PM QVĂ&#x2020;]MVKM of my mother Ivonne and her teachings were and still are fundamental," said Emanuele, "both in the kitchen and in the pleasure we take in our guests. Our motto is 'at a friends' house' and our restaurant name, "Agli Amici", means just that."

It's been a long time since Scarello attended hotel school in the 1980s.

He's interned, taken professional courses, and worked both in Italy IVL IJZWIL 6W_ PM Q[ \PM PMIL WN \PM 1\ITQIV [MK\QWV WN \PM QVĂ&#x2020;]MV\QIT Jeunes Restaurateurs d'Europe. Agli Amici is the only member of the Relais&Chateaux group in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.

Emanuele's cooking philosophy doesn't bother with abstractions. Although he lives in a zone surrounded by mountains, he deeply loves the sea, so he plays down geography. That's clear in the dishes he presents to our Gambero readers. "My salad," he explained, "is the result of ZMĂ&#x2020;MK\QWV WV \PM \PMUM WN [ITIL 1V Ua PWUM\W_V [ITIL KWV[Q[\[ WN \Wmatoes, arugula and lettuce, but in the mountains it means mushrooms IVL KPMM[M [PI^QVO[ )VL Ja \PM [MI' ;ITIL UMIV[ Ă&#x2026;[P *]\ _Pa WVTa Ă&#x2026;[P' \PM ^MOM\IT _WZTL WN \PM [MI WNNMZML UM LMTQKQW][ IVL QV\MZM[\QVO QVOZMLQMV\[ _Q\P ]VUI\KPIJTM KWV[Q[\MVKQM[ IVL LMMX Ă&#x2020;I^WZ[ M^MV UWZM \PIV Ă&#x2026;[P

Emanuele's dishes emerge from thoughts about traditions and the world that surrounds him. So although Udine is all about farm products, it's

also true that Friuli has the Adriatic next door. "With gnocchi I talk about my land and my sea, the potatoes from Godia and the soft shelled crabs that are prized on the tables in Venice. The softness of the gnocchi harUWVQbM[ XMZNMK\Ta _Q\P \PM \I]\ \MVIKQW][ IVL QWLQbML Ă&#x2020;I^WZ WN \PM KZIJ

For him territory means tradition, but "True tradition renews itself. Otherwise it's only a museum of cucina." So even the Italianissimo vitello \WVVI\W Ă&#x2026;VL[ I VM_ LQZMK\QWV _Q\P -UIV]MTM <PQ[ LQ[P Q[ I PWUIOM \W a great, traditional family recipe. It's one of the best, most successful and TWVO TQ^ML XIQZQVO[ WN Ă&#x2026;[P IVL UMI\ QV NWWL PQ[\WZa <PM ^MIT Ă&#x2026;TTM\ PI[ \W be cooked very carefully to preserve the delicate silkiness of the meat.

The capers release their power when chewed, and the anchovies are a NIV\I[\QK TQ\\TM NI\\a Ă&#x2026;[P \PI\ Q[ MI[QTa I^IQTIJTM IVL LM[MZ^M[ \W JM [PW_cased as a substitute for tuna, a variety that is on its way to extinction."

Dessert is a condensation of history and Friulano landscapes, a declaration of love to the countryside. "The fava beans of Tonka are in homage to the cramars, the spice merchants that left Carnia centuries ago on almost impossible voyages, in order to bring the spices of Venice to northern Europe. The strawberry grape that covers our pergolas is very good to eat, but not to make wine with. Picolit is our most beloved nectar. This course really brings together my entire home territory."

AGLI AMICI DAL 1887 | UDINE (UD) | VIA LIGURIA, 252 | 0432 565 411 | WWW.AGLIAMICI.IT

TEL.

56 SEPTEMBER 2017

ONLY ALGAE MY SEAFOOD SALAD INGREDIENTS FOR

10

SERVINGS

FOR PANNA COTTA WITH LIME

FOR THE CUSTARD

FOR THE ALGAE

125

250

SPIRULINA , SEA SPAGHETTI , WAKAME ,

35

G FRESH CREAM

50

G LIME JUICE

JUICE AND ZEST OF

3 LIMES

G SUNFLOWER SEED OIL

G EXTRA - VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

2 MEDIUM-SIZED

EGGS

DULSE ( RED ), SEA LETTUCE , SALICORNIA ,

IRISH MOSS,

SEA GRAPES , OYSTER LEAVES ,

ALGA NORI

0.5

G AGAR AGAR

3 G SALT

SALTY FINGER

0.5

G PECTIN

12

G LEMON JUICE

FINGER LIME

12

G MUSTARD

SALT

GREEK

SEA FENNEL

YOGURT

WASABI EGGS

PHOTO BY

R. PEDI

DROPS OF SEA WATER

8ZMXIZM \PM TQUM XIVVI KW\\I *ZQVO \PM cream to a boil with the powders and salt.

Remove from heat and add lime juice and grated zest. Mix, spread out and chill.

Then whip in a processor and transfer to a pastry bag.

For the custard, proceed as for a normal

mayonnaise except that the egg used must be pasteurized in its shell at 65 ยบ C for 50 minutes (in water at a constant temperature). All of it, yolk and white, is used.

Prepare the algae: those that are salt-preserved must be held under running water for 4 minutes, and then dried. They are

57 SEPTEMBER 2017

then ready for use.

Assemble the dish: alternate the custard, the lime panna cotta and the Greek yogurt three times. Then add a layer of algae and sea sprouts. As a final touch, spray with pasteurized sea water, using a vaporizer.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

GNOCCHI WITH SOFT-SHELL CRAB SOUP AND SAUTEED SWISS CHARD INGREDIENTS FOR

10 SERVINGS

FOR THE SOFT-SHELLED CRAB SOUP

FOR THE GNOCCHI

20 FRESH SOFT-SHELL CRABS

845 G KENNEBEC POTATOES FROM GODIA

3 GARLIC CLOVES

169 G MANITOBA FLOUR

300 G NATURAL MINERAL WATER

35 G EGG YOLKS

200 G RICE FLOUR

NUTMEG

PEANUT OIL FRESH BABY

EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL FROM THE SALT PEPPER

FOR THE FLAVORED OIL

SWISS CHARD CARSO

20 G RINSED CAPERS 4 ANCHOVY FILLETS 100 G PARSLEY EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

58 SETTEMBRE 2017

*ISM \PM XW\I\WM[ ]V\QT \MVLMZ QV I £ + oven. When cooked, immediately peel and mash. Spread out on a board and add the other ingredients. Knead and roll into cylinders. Cut off bite-sized pieces and using a fork or special wooden tool, make ridges in the gnocchi.

8ZMXIZM \PM ÆI^WZML WQT +PWX ITT \PM QVOZMdients and add oil, stirring.

Cut 10 soft-shell crabs in half, saving their liquid for later. Sauté them over high heat with extra-virgin olive oil and garlic. Add the crabs' own liquid and the mineral water.

Simmer for 10 minutes. Process the crabs in a blender to obtain a puree, taste for salt and keep warm.

Sauté the washed Swiss chard with extravirgin olive oil and garlic. Deep-fry the remaining crabs (sliced in half and dipped in ZQKM ÆW]Z QV IJ]VLIV\ PW\ XMIV]\ WQT Assemble the dish: spread the crab puree on the bottom of the dish. Arrange the gnocchi, the Swiss chard, the fried crabs on top. FinQ[P _Q\P LZWX[ WN \PM ÆI^WZML WTQ^M WQT

VEAL,

CRISP CAPERS AND ANCHOVY POWDER

INGREDIENTS FOR

10

SERVINGS

FOR THE VEAL

2 WHOLE 20

VEAL FILLETS

G THYME

SALT PEPPER

1 KG CLARIFIED BUTTER FOR THE ANCHOVY BREADING

200

G BREAD CRUMBS

100

G BUTTER

100

G

CANTABRICO

ANCHOVIES

FOR THE PUREE

200

G PURPLE CARROTS

200

G ORANGE CARROTS

200

G CAULIFLOWER

SALT

10

G EXTRA - VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

Season the veal fillets with salt and pepper, then roll and tie with string. Vacuum pack with thyme and steam at 55 °C for 30 minutes. Chill in water and ice, remove from vacuum pack and immerse the veal fillets in butter at 70 °C for 25 minutes.

For the breading: soften the butter and blend with anchovies and bread crumbs.

Form a sphere and place in refrigerator for at least one hour. Remove the solid anchovy butter ball from the refrigerator IVL OZI\M Q\ WV\W I JISQVO [PMM\ *ISM \PM crumbs at 160 °C for 5 minutes. Stir with a spatula and bake for 3 minutes more. Put aside to cool.

Prepare the purees. Peel the carrots, cut into pieces and boil colors separately in abundant salted water until tender. Do the [IUM _Q\P KI]TQÆW_MZ ,ZIQV \PM JWQTML vegetables and puree separately in processor, adding some cooking water (and

FOR THE DRIED CAPERS

200

G SALT - PRESERVED CAPERS

200

G WHITE WINE

FOR THE EGG SAUCE

3 EGGS 4 G SALT 24

G LEMON JUICE

24

G MUSTARD

540 60

G SUNFLOWER SEED OIL

G EXTRA - VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

SNOW PEAS

59 SEPTEMBER 2017

M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT NWZ \PM KI]TQÆW_MZ QN necessary.

Capers: remove salt from bunches by immersing in cold water for three hours, changing the water hourly. Then soak in white wine for an hour. Drain capers and arrange on a drying rack and dry at 60 °C for 10 hours.

To make the egg sauce: cook the eggs in 65 °C water for 50 minutes, then chill in water and ice. Place all the ingredients for the egg sauce (except the oils) in a food processor and blend at the highest speed, adding the oils gradually. *WQT \PM [VW_ XMI[ IVL [TQKM QV\W \PQV strips.

Assemble the dish: arrange the three purees, alternating with snow peas. Place a generous spoonful of egg sauce in the cen\MZ WN \PM XTI\M +]\ I [TQKM WN ÅTTM\ IVL press into anchovy powder, arrange on egg sauce and complete with crisp capers.

RICETTE DEI GRANDI CUOCHI

PICOLIT AND STRAWBERRY GRAPES WITH FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND TONKA BEAN CREAM INGREDIENTS FOR 10 SERVINGS FOR THE T ONKA BEAN CREAM 1.150 G MILK 40 17

G SUGAR G PECTIN

375

WHITE CHOCOLATE

1 G VANILLA

BEAN

1.5

G TONKA BEAN POWDER

2.5

G FIOR DI SALE

FOR THE

PICOLIT

FOR THE PINEAPPLE AND CELERY

300

G PINEAPPLE

50

G WATER

200

G CELERY STALKS

15

G SUGAR

30

AND STRAWBERRY GRAPE SOUP

2.5 10

G

G LEMON JUICE

120 90

GELSPESSA (XANTANA SOSA)

G

G SUGAR

ALMOND SLIVERS AND SPROUTS TO GARNISH

G STRAWBERRY GRAPE JUICE

PICOLIT WINE

<W UISM \PM \WVSI JMIV KZMIU" UQ` \PM []OIZ IVL XMK\QV 0MI\ \PM UQTS IVL ILL \PM []OIZ XMK\QV UQ`\]ZM *ZQVO \W I boil. Separately, mix the chocolate with the vanilla bean, salt and tonka bean powder. Pour the milk onto the chocolate I TQ\\TM I\ I \QUM [\QZZQVO MVMZOM\QKITTa +WV\QV]M \PZMM WZ NW]Z \QUM[ \PMV JTMVL QV I XZWKM[[WZ \W ZMÃ&#x2026;VM \PM [\Z]K\]ZM Crystalize in refrigerator for at least 6 hours.

Prepare the Picolit and strawberry grape soup. Centrifuge the strawberry grape to obtain juice. Mix sugar and /MT[XM[[I ILL _I\MZ IVL UQ` _MTT *ZQVO \W I JWQT IVL X]\ I[QLM \W KWWT ;MXIZI\MTa UQ` TMUWV R]QKM _QVM IVL OZIXM R]QKM QV I XQ\KPMZ *TMVL _MTT IVL ILL _I\MZ []OIZ IVL OMTI\QV Prepare pineapple and celery. Cut pineapple in cubes .5 cm per side. Vacuum pack with 30 g of sugar. ImUMZ[M \PM JIO QV _I\MZ IVL QKM NWZ I\ TMI[\ PW]Z[ +]\ \PM KMTMZa QV \PM [IUM _Ia *TIVKP QV _I\MZ IVL KPQTT In the center of the plate, place the tonka bean cream. Around it, place some celery and pineapple cubes, \WI[\ML ITUWVL[ +WUXTM\M _Q\P [XZW]\[ <W Ã&#x2026;VQ[P LZQbbTM _Q\P 8QKWTQ\ IVL [\ZI_JMZZa OZIXM [W]X

60 SEPTEMBER 2017

PAIRINGS

ONLY ALGAE

GNOCCHI WITH SOFT-SHELL CRAB SOUP AND SAUTEED SWISS CHARD

SANTÒN VERMOUTH AGRICOLO | BORGO SAN DANIELE | CORMÒNS (GO) | VIA SAN DANIELE, 28 | TEL. 0481 60552 | WWW.SANTON-VERMOUTH.IT

ROSAZZO ABBAZIA DI ROSAZZO ’14 | LIVIO FELLUGA | CORMÒNS (GO) | VIA RISORGIMENTO, 1 | TEL. 0481 60203 | WWW.LIVIOFELLUGA.IT

“It should be served with two drops of lemon juice and ice,” explained the chef. “This pairing perfectly balances all the sensations: savory, sweet, bitter, acidic, fatty. We chose an agricultural vermouth that uses santonego (a marine absinthe) among its botanicals, especially for sapidity and iodine.”

“I chose the white that the Felluga estate produces from its splendid Abbazia di Rosazzo vineyards. It is a white from the hills that nevertheless has sea fragrances. Its blend embodies our territory: friulano, pinot bianco, sauvignon, malvasia and ribolla gialla are the grapes in this wine,” Emanuele Scarello told us.

PICOLIT AND STRAWBERRY GRAPES WITH FRUIT,

VEAL, CRISP CAPERS AND ANCHOVY POWDER

VEGETABLES AND TONKA BEAN CREAM

FCO PINOT NERO ’13 | VIGNAI DA DULINE | SAN GIOVANNI AL NATISONE (UD) | LOC. VILLANOVA DEL JUDRIO | VIA IV NOVEMBRE, 136 | TEL. 0432 758 115 | WWW.VIGNAIDADULINE.COM

FCO PICULIT ’15 | MARCO SARA | POVOLETTO (UD) | FRAZ. SAVORGNANO DEL TORRE | VIA DEI MONTI, 3A | TEL. 0432 666 066 | WWW.MARCOSARA.COM

“This meat dish,” Scarello said, “I match to a truly intriguing and elegant version of Pinot Nero. The Vignai da Duline winery makes it with the grapes from the few rows that grow in that magical place, Ronco Pitotti. It has a very intense aroma that calls up cherry, raspJMZZa IVL VW\M[ WN NWZM[\ ÆWWZ 1\¼[ JITIVKML IVL _WVLMZN]TTa [\Z]K\]ZML QV \PM UW]\P J]\ Q\¼[ NZM[P IVL Q\[ \IVVQV[ IZM _MTT LM^MTWXML º

“Picolit is an authentic and very rare nectar, one of Friuli Venezia /Q]TQI¼[ JM[\ TW^ML _QVM[ º -UIV]MTM INÅZUML ¹<PQ[ Q[ I NZM[P dessert, laden with aromatic notes. It includes this wine. So we matched it with Picolit from Marco Sara, who is a sensitive, careful producer.”

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