GOODSPEED The Tradewind Magazine | Issue 17 | November 2023

2023 :: ISSUE 17

GOOdspeed THE TRADEWIND MAGAZINE

INSIDE

FESTIVE NOSTALGIA NEWPORT FOR THE HOLIDAYS

HOT TABLES

WHERE TO DINE THIS SEASON

UNDERWATER HERO SAVING ST. BARTHS’ ECOSYSTEM

IMAGINE feeling at home far from home

WV JUN

PRIVATE VILLAS, ATTENTIVE CONCIERGE SERVICE, TRUSTED EXPERIENCE ST BARTH, TURKS & CAICOS, ANGUILLA, ST MARTIN, VIRGIN ISLANDS, ITALY

Discover more at wimco.com +1 401 849 8012 @wimcovillas info@wimco.com PROUD PARTNER OF TRADEWIND AVIATION

Visit our office in St Barth across from the airport

be bouncy be bendy be bonkers

be home.

F I N D YO U R H O M E AT C O R C O R A N .C O M

© 2023 Corcoran Group LLC. All rights reserved. Corcoran® and the Corcoran Logo are registered service marks owned by Corcoran Group LLC. Corcoran Group LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each franchise is independently owned and operated.

2023 :: ISSUE 17

welCOme aboard TabLE of

COntents Flight Plan THE LATEST AND GREATEST IN 10 EACH OF OUR DESTINATIONS Gyp Sea opens beachside cottages, Anguilla keeps it classic with sailing charters, Cape Cod’r puts lifestyle in a can, a new art-centric property in Newport, book tips from Martha's Vineyard and a roundup of new spots to dine out.

THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING TRADEWIND AVIATION! We’re thrilled you’re joining us today and hope you have a pleasant flight. We've included some helpful information below. Should you have any questions or concerns, please ask your pilots and they will be happy to assist.

Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with the safety briefing card, located in the seatback pocket.

AIRCRAFT The Pilatus PC-12 is a modern, turbine-powered aircraft with a pressurized cabin. Built in Switzerland, the PC-12 is fully capable of flying in the same weather conditions and turbulence as larger airliners.

The Citation CJ3 is a light jet with the latest technology, avionics and engines, climbing to 45,000 feet easily and cruising long distances efficiently. It also has a pressurized cabin. Enjoy complimentary WiFi on domestic flights in our Citation CJ3 Jets.

REFRESHMENTS Complimentary refreshments, snacks, wine and beer are located in the cooler and snack basket in the rear of the aircraft. Please help yourself or ask the person seated closer to pass something forward for you.

SHARE YOUR JOURNEY Tag your photos with #flytradewind or @flytradewind.

local female entrepreneur, Julia Le Saout.

IGHT LINES 28 TCaptain Matt Reneimo is as thoughtful as one would expect from an expert angler.

The Hangar TURNING BACK TIME 32 The historic nature of Newport is palpable,

but especially so during the Festive Season.

E R WA T E R H E R O 35 UTheN Dcaptivating mission and dedication of Coral Restoration St-Barth.

In Every Issue HARTER A COURSE 6 CMarsh Harbour, Bahamas | MHH ALENDAR 22 CNot-to-miss events in our destinations IDDEN HAVENS 38 HMunyon Island, North Palm Beach, Florida ECTOR 40 VTradewind’s routes and current happenings UNDOWNERS 44 SCow Wreck Beach | Anegada, BVI

DESTINATION LEGEND:

ACK = NANTUCKET

ANU = ANTIGUA

AXA = ANGUILLA

HPN = WESTCHESTER

MVY = MARTHA’S VINEYARD

NPT = NEWPORT

SBH = ST. BARTHS

SJU = SAN JUAN

TEB = TETERBORO

VIJ

PAGE 2 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

= VIRGIN GORDA

OPPOSITE PAGE: NEWPORT HOLIDAY LIGHTS Photo copyright © David Hansen

SAFETY The safety of our guests and team members is our number one priority and will never be compromised. Tradewind is a U.S. certificated air carrier operating under Part 135 of FAA regulations. Operating continuously without incident since 2001, Tradewind exceeds the FAA, ICAO and industry standards for aircraft equipment, pilot training and maintenance, and all Tradewind scheduled and private flights are flown with two pilots at all times.

Control Tower LE REBOOT 24 The torch of Le Ti is passed to another impressive

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

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18 32

A LOCAL leNS ONE OF GOODSPEED’S editorial elements that gives me the most pride is our dedication to highlighting the locals in our destinations—those who are often quietly and humbly setting a respectful tone toward their home turf. In a world where things have gotten so very loud, and actions and experiences are documented, practically simultaneously, on social media, it’s a pleasure to meet individuals who are thoughtfully preserving the character and natural beauty of their locations, whether through environmental measures like the coral restoration of St. Barths or the careful renovation of a beloved nightclub to ensure history is honored. We are lucky to visit places where the residents care deeply for their surroundings and are keen to share them with visitors, like Captain Matt Reinemo’s favorite fishing holes and Anguilla’s Tradition sailing charters.

I hope as we continue to visit these special spots, now including Virgin Gorda in the BVI, we too take a moment to reflect on how these stunning locales are often kept that way due to the efforts of conscientious locals, and make a point to either learn more about their endeavors or, when possible, get involved ourselves. After all, the Earth, and its special destinations such as these, is what we all have in common.

Warmly,

34 MEG NOLAN mnolan@flytradewind.com | @megnolanvr

Goodspeed magazine is published seasonally in partnership between Meg Nolan, Will Attend LLC and Tradewind Aviation. | EDITOR: Meg Nolan DESIGN: Ann Zipkin, AtoZ.studio | AD SALES: GoodspeedMag@flytradewind.com | COVER ARTWORK: © Heather Skau/Shutterstock.

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 3

WWW.MODLINGROUP.COM 6 3 1 . 2 3 7.1 0 0 7 H A M P TO N S @ M O D L I N G RO U P. C O M 2 4 0 5 M A I N ST R E E T, 2 N D F LO O R , P O B OX 2 5 5 B R I D G E H A M P TO N , N Y 1 1 9 3 2

2405 Main Street, 2nd Floor, PO Box 255, Bridgehampton, NY 11932, 631.237.1007. Modlin Group Hamptons is a licensed real estate broker and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All information regarding property for sale, rent or financing is from sources deemed reliable, but no warranty or representation is made as to the accuracy thereof and same is submitted subject to errors, omissions, change of price, rental or other conditions, prior to sale, lease or financing or withdrawal without notice. All dimensions are approximate. For exact dimensions you must hire your own architect or engineer.

AFTER 25 YEARS OF EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE IN NYC

MODLIN GROUP IS PROUDLY OPEN IN

THE HAMPTONS

CHARTER a COURSE

Marsh Harbour, Bahamas

As the charming, colonial-style capital of the Abacos island chain in the Bahamas, Marsh Harbour beckons visitors eager to both explore what’s dubbed as the Boating Capital of the Bahamas as well as the distinct architectural remnants of the islands’ original settlers: England loyalists who fled the American Revolution.

Central and South areas with Marsh Harbour smack in the middle, making it an easy jumping-off point to explore popular neighboring spots such as Treasure Cay, Green Turtle Cay, Hopetown and Elbow Cay. With its sole stoplight governing the traffic in and out of the marina and those patronizing a rather dynamic dining scene, Marsh Harbour is the ideal blend between laid-back lifestyle and upscale indulgence with some of the best views in the Bahamas.

W H E R E T O S TA Y

The Abaco Club in Winding Bay offers the ultimate in luxury accommodations in the Abacos with private rental rooms that are available on a one-time initial basis to guests. The club features a long white sand beach with watersports, an 18-hole links course, tennis courts, a full-service spa and marina with fishing charters at the ready.

PAGE 6 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

CONCH CEVICHE Photo copyright © 2018 Miami2youPhoto/Shutterstock

THE ABACOS ISLAND CHAIN SPANS 120 miles and is divided into North,

CHARTER A COURSE: MARSH HARBOUR, BAHAMAS

MHH

LIGHTHOUSE Photo copyright © BVItourism.com |

RUM + CONCH FRITTERS Photo copyright © 2018 MevZup/Shutterstock

WHAT TO DO

Visit the last kerosene-burning lighthouse in the world, Elbow Reef Lighthouse. Manually operated and adorned with a candy cane paint job, the historic lighthouse is run by Jeffery Forbes Jr., who inherited the role from his father and climbs 101 steps each day to crank a hand winch 427 times every two hours. The light flare shines every 15 seconds and can be seen from 20 miles out, ensuring the boating capital remains safe and sound.

WHERE TO EAT

For weekend evenings with a bit of flair, check out Anglers, whose tiki hut bar offers live DJ sessions, and the mojitos and lobster tails are a known favorite. For sunset views overlooking the harbor, local favorite Wally’s is a must, as is pairing conch fritters with a drink on the porch.

FOR MORE INFORMATION visit www.flytradewind.com/destination/marsh-harbour/

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 7

Maison pelican Angle rue de la France & 1 rue général de Gaulle GUSTAVIA 97133 Saint-Barthélémy +590 590 52 21 20 + 590 690 39 90 29 hello@maisonpelican.com maisonpelican www.maisonpelican.com

Photos : L.Di Orio, L. Lindbergh, K. Khan.

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Colombier Hill & Saint Jean . Saint-Barth +590 590 77 52 52 . www.gypsea-stbarth.com

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Hotel . Beach Houses . Beach Club

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WHERE THE PARTY NEVER ENDS INTRODUCING THE NEW GYP SEA BEACH HOUSES ON ST. JEAN

PAGE 10 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

FLIGHT PLAN

This past October the beloved Gyp Sea Beach Club from Maison and Hotels Sibuet introduced four brand-new beachfront villas on St. Jean Beach, just alongside the restaurant, ensuring the party doesn’t have to end once the club closes.

Given the lively atmosphere at Gyp Sea, these four one-to-three-bedroom oceanfront tropical houses, each with its own pool and personal butler service, are aimed at discerning party enthusiasts. Built from wood and local stone, the décor style is equally as vibrant as the Gyp Sea Beach Club scene, featuring bright pink fabrics, lime green vintage palm motifs and driftwood-inspired furnishings. Each house comes with a small kitchenette as well as both indoor and outdoor table seating, ensuring the party really can continue with ample seating and space for the impromptu dinner catered by the in-house butler. The villas are also connected to the Gyp Sea Hotel, located above Colombier where a newly revamped spa awaits. With discerning party enthusiasts in the majority on St. Barths, we have no doubt these incredibly chic party shacks will be a huge success.

LEARN MORE maisonsethotels-sibuet.com 2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 11

FLIGHT PLAN

AXA

Trimmed to Cruise BEHIND THE SAILS WITH ANGUILLA’S TRADITION SAILING CHARTER DUO: LAURIE GUMBS AND DEB VOS

Having retired from her illustrious career as a trade boat in both legitimate cargo and the lucrative liquor and cigarette smuggling trade out of St. Barths, Tradition was purchased by Captain Laurie Gumbs in 2009, having found her in Carriacou, Grenada.

The West Indian wooden sloop was handcrafted in 1978 and maintains her classic line and rigging with nary a winch in sight. However, it’s the tremendous challenge of sailing her, particularly in a heavier breeze, that is just what her faithful crew loves most about her. With her expansive wood deck of 50 feet (60 feet from bow to stern) and cloth sails, Tradition has room enough for 12 passengers over the age of 4. Tradition is available for both shared schedule charters and private affairs, with their most popular being a day sail to Prickly Pear, which includes a lobster lunch on the island. Deb and Laurie are dedicated to their service, striving to supply the best in what they offer onboard, including squeezing oranges daily for the mimosas’ orange juice as well as sourcing a refined French cheese plate from St. Martin, straight off the boat from France. “We try to make them happy and give them an experience that is unforgettable,” says Deb. “We’ve built our reputation on it and are proud to say we have many returning guests.” The sunset cruises are also extremely popular, offering a more adult-focused atmosphere with fresh cocktails and 14 to 15 passed hors d’oeuvres ensuring a fully satiated evening. In addition to her charter schedule, Tradition competes annually in the West Indies Regatta in St. Barths. For Laurie, she is a point of pride, and he has sailed her all over the Caribbean in the off-season. As he claims, “We’re lucky to have her. She’s a real unique and special part of Caribbean history.” Their advice for this season: Book early!

LEARN MORE tradition-sailing.com PAGE 12 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

Osprey House

The Ultimate Privacy, Luxury & Convenience tortola, British Virgin Islands PRIVATE GATED CLIFF SIDE ESTATE ON 40 ACRE PENINSUL A | 2 LUXURIOUS VILL AS | PRIVATE DOCK YACHT CHARTERS | PRIVATE CHEFS & PERSONALIZED MENUS | ON-SITE SPA SERVICES

IDE A L FOR L A RGE FA M ILY HOLIDAYS OR COR POR AT E R ET R E ATS Just 15 minutes from Tortola Airport or a 20 minute water taxi to our private dock on the estate from Virgin Gorda Airport

+1 284 346 2911 | norahazelpoint.com

FLIGHT PLAN

RAISE A CAN CAPE COD’R CRAFT COCKTAILS PROMISE ENDLESS SUMMER IN HAND

Inspired by Co-Founder Kevin Leary’s seaside Massachusetts stomping grounds, Cape Cod, Cape Cod’r Craft Cocktail cans are made with real spirits, all-natural juice and just three core ingredients.

Offering five different mixtures and three spirits—vodka, rum and tequila—the drinks are gluten-free and less than 100 calories with a 4.5% ABV. The popularity of canned drinks seems never diminishing, but the challenge is finding one that tastes good, stays cold in the cooler and doesn’t leave you regretting it the following day. According to Leary, “Consumers want clean distilled spirits, low alcohol by volume and premium ingredients over synthetic-tasting seltzers with bad malt hangovers.” He recommends starting with their newest flavor first: the Mermaid’s Tale with tequila, watermelon and mint. They’re also planning to launch another tequila-based flavor this coming spring. Cape Cod’r Craft Cocktails can currently be found in all the major liquor stores on Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket and Newport, as well as right behind you in our Northeast route plane coolers. Go ahead, channel your Cape summer, and grab one!

LEARN MORE capecodr.com

PAGE 14 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

ACK/MVY/NPT

EVERY TRADEWIND FLIGHT IS IN THE GOOD HANDS OF TWO EXPERIENCED PILOTS – AND 2,500 PROUD SWISS CRAFTSPEOPLE When you travel in a Tradewind Pilatus PC-12, you’re flying in one of the most advanced, most comfortable, and safest private aircraft in the world. Designed and constructed with renowned Swiss quality and craftsmanship, the PC-12 has no equal. So sit back, relax, and enjoy the journey as much as your destination. pilatus-aircraft.com

Hot Tables THE LATEST OPENINGS AND UPDATES IN OUR DESTINATIONS

PAGE 16 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

FLIGHT PLAN

La Kala, St. Barths

The newly renamed La Kala on Grand Cul-de-Sac, previously known as Le Rivage, opened this past October with a brand-new Mediterranean inspired menu (oysters, halloumi, mahi-mahi) and a twice-monthly lobster barbecue on Monday nights. The beachfront boite is open seven days a week for lunch from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and offers 120 seats. Helmed by Chef Alessandro Bonta, who hails from lauded stints in St. Tropez and Paris, the restaurant promises to offer a more relaxed seafood fare and grill than perhaps its partygoing St. Jean neighbors, however not so quiet that you won’t easily wile an entire afternoon away. For more information follow @lakalastbarth on Instagram and be sure to make reservations.

FOLLOW @lakalastbarth

O Bar, Nantucket

Late this past summer saw the successful opening of the O Bar, the sister gastro bar to Bar Yoshi, located directly across the pebbles on North Wharf. The new concept is open seven days a week starting at noon and is on a first-come, first-served basis for walk-ins only.

With bar seating, a few high-top tables and some patio seating, the menu features raw bar favorites as well as the full menu from Bar Yoshi. Seats at the blue-scallop tile bar afford views of the harbor, the raw bar and the bartenders making their fine craft cocktails.

The ambiance is decidedly casual and local, and so very welcome to the Nantucket scene, while the food remains top quality, serving the island’s best sushi alongside fresh clams and oysters and a mean spicy margarita.

FOLLOW @baryoshinantucket

Pink Steak, West Palm Beach, FL

This November will bring the much-anticipated opening of local chef Julien Gremaud’s new steakhouse, Pink Steak in West Palm Beach. As the master behind local favorite Avocado Grill, Gremaud’s Midas touch is well known, and since this new spot is entirely his idea, harkening back to his fine-dining roots, the buzz is loud. The mission is to provide a steakhouse that speaks to today’s diners, who still crave a great steak but prefer healthier options alongside. Instead of creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin, Gremaud will bring fresh local ingredients such as broccoli rabe and grilled artichokes to lighten and modernize the steakhouse experience. Furthermore, the vibrancy won’t just be on your plate, but also throughout the décor, which promises a Miami-style ambiance reminiscent of a mid-century supper club, with pink and green velvet seating, pink feather chandeliers and a large welcoming brass bar. The 4,500-square-foot indoor space comes complete with 14-foot ceilings, a large covered patio, a full raw bar and 170 seats in total. “It’s a new steakhouse for a new era,” explains Gremaud. “We’re elevating the experience to integrate Floridian flavors into the time-honored steakhouse menu diners know and love.”

FOLLOW @pinksteakwpb

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 17

FLIGHT PLAN

THE ART OF ENTERTAINING NPT UNVEILING NEWPORT’S LATEST BOUTIQUE HOTEL: GARDINER HOUSE

This past September, Newport welcomed the Gardiner House, a newly built waterfront boutique luxury property located on Lee’s Wharf that is destined to maintain Newport’s tradition of artful entertaining.

A welcome addition to the area, particularly due to its smaller scale and intimate nature, Gardiner House is sure to appeal to both visitors and locals alike, given the sophisticated aesthetic and homage to local patrons from its longtime Newporter owners, Howard Cushing and Wirt Blaffer. The pastel palette and classically manicured design are meant to recall Newport’s colorful, artistic roots, including those of Cushing’s great-grandfather, American artist Howard Gardiner Cushing.

Upon entry, guests are met with a captivating, two-story mural—a direct reproduction of the one painted by Cushing’s grandfather in their family estate, The Ledges, at the turn of the 20th century. The 21 guest rooms and suites vary in size, but all feature luxurious touches PAGE 18 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

such as marble bathrooms, Matouk linens and Ortigia bath products.

The largest suite is 475 square feet and offers harbor views from its Juliet balcony, while another includes two king-sized beds, making it perhaps the most enticing double room for a family. The hotel is poised to host a variety of events either on its harbor-facing lawn, its west-facing sun porch or the 2,400-square-foot ballroom. The terrace restaurant is set to open this spring, while the Studio Bar is already a gathering point with its enveloping art-laden, green-hued walls, wood-burning fireplace and craft-cocktail list that meets the sophisticate’s palate. After all, entertaining is indeed an art.

LEARN MORE gardinerhouse.com

Designs available in 24 and 18 carat gold katherinegroverfinejewelry.com

Featured at Sylvia Antiques 15 Main Street, Nantucket 508-228-0960

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 19

FLIGHT PLAN

FIRESIDE FODDER

Washed Ashore: Family, Fatherhood, and Finding Home on Martha’s Vineyard

BY BILL EVILLE

A Smoke and a Song: A Memoir

BY SHERRY SIDOTI

The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store: A Novel

BY JAMES McBRIDE

Tom Lake

BY ANN PATCHETT

The Underworld: Journeys to the Depths of the Ocean

BY SUSAN CASEY

READ MORE

bunchofgrapes.indielite.org

PAGE 20 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

MVY

As the temperatures drop in the Northeast, we find solace by sitting in front of a warm fire, often with a great book nestled between our hands.

With so much fantastic content out there, not to mention the lure of Netflix, we’ve gone to the experts—our friends at Bunch of Grapes Bookstore on Martha’s Vineyard—for some surefire selections bound to keep us deeply engaged and far from the TV remote.

Much more than a luxury hotel . . .

It’s not just about Villa Rental . . .

It’s about all our Eden Rock exclusive services . . .

Eden Rock - St Barths, Baie de St Jean, St Barthélemy, 97133 French West Indies + 590 (0) 590 29 79 99

+ 590 (0) 590 29 81 70

reservations.edenrock@oetkercollection.com

reservations.edenrockvillarental@oetkercollection.com

www.edenrockhotel.com

www.edenrockvillarental.com

CALENDAR

ACK

1–3 Christmas Stroll Weekend

NPT

16 Holiday Dinner Dance at The Breakers

MVY

31 Foxy’s Old Year’s Night

JANUARY SJU

18–21 Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián

SBH

SBH

15–24 St. Barths Music Festival

13

ANU

AXA

13–23

MARCH AXA

10–12

SBH

SBH

11–17

11–20 Les Voiles de St. Barth

ACK

25–28 Daffodil Festival

ANU

27–MAY 3 Antigua Sailing Week

Moonsplash ANU

8–9 Festival Del Mar

RORC Caribbean 600 Race

Superyacht Challenge Antigua

MAY

21–24

ACK

Bucket Regatta

VIJ

31 Easter Festival

PAGE 22 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

APRIL

Mardi Gras/Carnival

16 Vineyard Artisans 15th Annual Holiday Festival

VIJ

FEBRUARY

15–19 Wine & Food Festival

AXA

23–26 Anguilla Culinary Experience

LEFT COLUMN: BOTTOM LEFT Photo © Discover Newport, BOTTOM RIGHT Photo © NayaDadara/Shutterstock;

RIGHT COLUMN: MIDDLE LEFT Photo © Michael Gramm; BOTTOM RIGHT Photo © Arthur Daniel

DECEMBER

THE ULTIMATE ISLAND ESCAPE

Welcome to the world of Cap Juluca, a place where time is suspended and only moments matter, a place where luxury and authenticity intertwine, complementing each other in every detail of your stay.

Cap Juluca, A Belmond Hotel, in Anguilla, is a dream-like escape, spread across the Caribbean’s most beautiful beach, Maundays Bay. Its impressive architecture features an understated whitewashed simplicity, with Greco-Moorish style. Each one of the stylish 108 rooms, suites and pool villas, is an enticing beachfront haven to unwind in, boasting direct beach access and tantalising ocean views.

The island is a bedrock for captivating travel tales, from snorkelling escapes and sunset cruises to luxury treatments inspired by Arawak rituals. Set in an unparalleled landscape, a diverse gastronomical scene awaits, from classic Italian to tantalising Peruvian flavours.

Dive into a new season of extraordinary experiences like its Culinary Shores with Michelin-starred chefs and holistic wellness initiatives along the pristine shores of the Caribbean's slice of unspoiled beauty.

CAP JULUCA, ANGUILLA, MAUNDAYS BAY, AI – 2640

tel +1 264 497-6666

CAPJULUCA.CAP@BELMOND.COM

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C O N T R O L T O W E R | L E T I , S T. B A R T H S

le Reboot ST. BARTH S’ LATE -NI GH T D ARLI NG, LE TI , REOPEN S

Originally managed by the island’s nightlife impresario Carole Gruson, Le Ti, the iconic hilltop bastion of reverie in Pointe Milou, is poised for its reincarnation this November.

REOPENING UNDER THE PR ACTICED HANDS of new

owners Julia and Nicolas Le Saout of Gustavia’s Sella restaurant, plus a set team of performers from Visionair Events, the club will stay true to the original cabaret concept with closing time set at 4 a.m. We caught up with Julia in the month before opening to ask her all our pressing questions about what aims to be the most notable rebirth on the island this season.

First things first, what drew you to this project? Do you have a personal attachment to Le Ti? Absolutely. My husband worked as a waiter at Le Ti just after Irma in 2017—a particularly tough season after the hurricane destroyed so much on island. Also, Carole did not want to sell to a group, and she was obsessed about handing it over to a woman. I may not be as extravagant as Carole, but I will try to maintain the female spirit of Le Ti.

You and your husband are no strangers to the St. Barths’ hospitality scene. Can you tell me how you two met and how you’ve ended up as owners of Le Ti? We met in London eight years ago when I was a PA to a famous family, and he was working as a waiter. We were crazy enough to move to St. Barths with four suitcases and the desire to build something on island. Unfortunately, we went through Hurricane Irma, but we never gave up and worked hard for others, and then we had the opportunity to invest money and become partners of Le Tamarin restaurant. Next, we met our investor and opened Sella, and then in late June we bought Le Ti. We are a self-made couple who are partners in life and in business.

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 25

C O N T R O L T O W E R | L E T I , S T. B A R T H S

Given the adoration for the club, not to mention its relatively recent renovation, how much updating did you do?

We kept the structure of the building but refurbished everything, trying to maintain the same spirit. The new decoration includes floral and animal prints along with upholstered walls. We partnered with Francois Dumas from Maison Pelican in Gustavia for the décor.

What about the show?

We kept the cabaret concept, of course, but the show will be upgraded with more performers all from the company Visionair Events. There will be four women, two men, a singer and, since we will stay open until 4 a.m., there will also be special DJ guests.

What was most important to you when creating a new version of Le Ti? To keep the extravagant spirit of the former owner, Carole. We were sure to keep the picture of Carole and Johnny on the walls as to us it is very important because it showcases the spirit we want to keep: freedom from care and simple fun. Everything can happen at Le Ti. And there is no shame in having fun. Some people are so discreet and then become a completely different person at Le Ti. We love that.

Describe the new space in three words.

Extravagant, different, unique.

What’s something that is totally new?

Our in-house shop will be managed by Volver. The owner, Laura, is a friend of mine and is bringing the sexy back with amazing brands such as Bronx and Banco, Raisa Vanessa, Joy Cioci, TerreMer and Charo Ruiz. The shop will be open at the same time as the restaurant, and they will do a fashion show.

What about dinner service?

We will start dinner service at 8 p.m. with our new chef, Quentin Guesdon. The menu is classic and caters to sophisticated clients with meat, fish and vegetarian dishes.

Will there be any signature elements?

It is all new: new costumes, new dinner menu and new cocktail list. My favorite is the Red Truffle, which is gin infused with truffle, mezcal and red martini. Our bar manager, Paul, has created a new and original cocktail menu.

Why do you believe Le Ti will appeal to guests?

Because it is a unique place in St. Barths as the only cabaret on the island with a real show. It is also the only place they can have dinner and then party all night long.

What are you most excited about showing the locals with the new version?

That we kept some of the best pictures of Carole (including ones with Kate Moss and Johnny Hallyday).

What do you want people to say to their friends after they have spent an evening at Le Ti? We had the most fun!

LEARN MORE www.tistbarth.com

PAGE 26 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE

ENCH A N TED

AMERICAS

ASIA

EUROPE

MIDDLE EAST

ro se w o o dho t e l s. c o m

Private coaching, court rental, pro-shop, membership program . . . and much more!

Private Tennis Facilities on St Barths FLAMANDS TENNIS CLUB | GUANAHANI HOTEL | CORAL REEF SAINT-JEAN

Patrick SELLEZ +59 069 035 5886 | www.stbarthtennis.com

Goodspeed hafl page_Patrick Sellez_27sept22.indd 1

9/27/22 9:39 AM 2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 27

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C O N T R O L T O W E R | C A P TA I N M A T T R E I N E M O , N A N T U C K E T TA C K L E

CAS TIN G W

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E’ A Nantucket native, Captain Matt Reinemo S C AP TA has been fishing for as long as he can remember.

IN MAT T REIN His passion for fishing has led him to guide, captain his EMO own charter company, own a tackle shop and even write a book.

AS THE OWNER OF NANTUCKET TACKLE for the past seven

years, Reinemo has been an eyewitness to the growth of interest in fishing on Nantucket. The serious anglers have always known, but the numbers have increased since COVID. Nantucket Tackle recently opened a second store on island, located down on Old South Wharf just across from Slip 14. It’s a natural location for them and allows those who arrive on boat, including local charter companies, to restock with ease. We caught up with Matt just as he was returning from his annual trip down to Costa Rica.

How did you come to own Nantucket Tackle?

I am friends with the former owner, Steve Kotalac, and had worked for him on and off through the years, starting when I was in eighth grade. I mentioned to him one day in the spring of 2016, without much prior thought, that if he was ever interested in selling, I may be interested in buying it. I owned it a few weeks later.

Has fishing always been a passion?

I have been fishing for as long as I can remember. My mom taught me to fish in Nantucket's ponds. Shortly thereafter, I was often found fishing saltwater with my father and brother. My Uncle Bob taught me to fly fish when I was in middle school. I always loved it, and I think sometime around middle school my passion really blossomed and snowballed to the point I am at now, where much of my life revolves around fishing.

What makes Nantucket so awesome for anglers?

Nantucket fishing is great for many reasons. The first is that it is just very good. There are good days and bad days no matter where in the world you fish, but on Nantucket, you don't have to endure too many really bad days. It is also special because of the crowds (or lack thereof). Compared to many places, especially on the East Coast of the US, the fish and the fishing spots are lightly pressured. Having fish to yourself is a distinct possibility.

How long have you been guiding on Nantucket?

This was my 25th year as a Nantucket fishing guide. I got my captain's license when I was 18, started running the Topspin off of Straight Wharf in 1999, and I have been at it ever since.

It doesn't get old because it is never the same. Each season is different, every day is different. Every time you leave the dock it is a new adventure.

The Anglers Society is reporting a recent surge in fishing; why do you think that is?

There was definitely a huge jump in fishing during COVID, unsurprisingly as people were searching for healthy outdoor pursuits that could be done alone or in small groups. I think there was some fall-off, certainly, some people tried fishing during COVID and stopped or largely stopped once things normalized to some degree, but certainly many people found they enjoyed it and stuck with it.

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C O N T R O L T O W E R | C A P TA I N M A T T R E I N E M O , N A N T U C K E T TA C K L E

haven't written another book since. I do hope to do so sooner rather than later, however.

Are you able to share some of your favorite fishing holes?

There aren't many types of fishing around Nantucket that I don't enjoy, but my favorites are the flats of the West End in the spring, the Bonito Bar from late July until early September (usually) and offshore anywhere—either east for bluefin, south of the island close by (relatively) or all the way to the canyons, which I have had the opportunity to do much more over the last couple of years.

We also see that you were a high school teacher. Please tell us more.

You’re also a published author. Tell us about your books.

Writing has been a hobby/habit/avocation of mine, starting around college. I wrote a terrible manuscript in my late 20s, but I am lucky enough to have an aunt who is a literary agent in New York, so I had a huge leg up. Anybody else would have had a very difficult time just getting her to read anything, but being my aunt, she had to! She told me to put it in a drawer and forget about it, and if I wanted to write a book, I should write a how-to guide about fishing on Nantucket. I resisted; as an aspiring novelist, nonfiction fishing how-tos did not seem terribly interesting to me, and I didn't give it much thought for years. Then I got into the writing of John Gierach, and through him discovered that nonfiction fishing writing can be funny, thoughtful, insightful—truly excellent—so I was inspired to give it a shot.

My first book, Fishing Nantucket: A Guide for Island Anglers, came out in 2012. It is a how-to guide for fishing the island, going into specifics of lures, tides, spots, etc. I was surprised by its popularity, and it did about as well as a very local how-to guide could be expected to do. It is still fairly popular in island bookstores and online. After writing Fishing Nantucket, I dove right into Compass of My Soul, which is a collection of essays about fishing. Not really anything of use, hopefully good for some thought-provoking ideas and a few laughs. It turns out that while many people are interested in my advice when it comes to where and how they may catch fish, very few people are interested in my thoughts on it. While I think it has been pretty well received by most readers, sales have been nearly nonexistent. And then I bought the tackle store, my kids got old enough so I couldn't write during nap time (which is largely how I got Fishing Nantucket done), and I

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My teaching career was brief and unspectacular (as were all my careers not having to do with fishing—a brief legal career being the other standout). I was a long-term substitute for high school history and English for a couple of years, and I taught eighthgrade history as a long-term sub and then for two more full years. I stopped teaching before I bought Nantucket Tackle.

What led to the second outpost of Nantucket Tackle on Old South Wharf?

For about the first 15 years of my career, I was fishing full-time off of Straight Wharf. The charter boats there and the entire boat basin are a real hub of sportfishing on the island, so when the opportunity presented itself to have a Nantucket Tackle location right in the middle of it, I was excited to give it a shot.

Did you see a rise in business at the store during and postCOVID with the raised interest in fishing?

The tackle store was very busy during COVID with the boost in fishing interest, but thankfully Nantucket Tackle did not see a drop-off when things returned to normal. Our customers are a diverse bunch, and we try to take care of everybody. I understand that my competition is not just on Nantucket— islanders can shop online and get any tackle they want delivered in a number of days. We strive to have a tremendous selection of products and be able to outfit you for any fishing you want to do, from scup to giant bluefin, and our prices are competitive with online and off-island stores. And naturally, you get a level of local knowledge and customer service that is impossible if shopping off-island or online. I am grateful to the many local regulars I have. I understand they have plenty of tackle-buying options, and I hope I can continue to be their choice. And, of course, a large part of our business is vacationers, and we are happy to outfit them and guide them to some productive spots.

LEARN MORE fishingnantucket.com

Turning Back Time CH RI STMAS I N NE W P O RT

Founded in 1971 by local Ruth Myers, Christmas in Newport is a two-week festival initially characterized by the sparkling white lights meant to simulate candlelight and recapture the look and feel of the holidays of a bygone era. Now in its 53rd year, the annual program offers an event or activity for almost every day in the month of December.

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THE HANGAR | CHRISTMAS IN NEWPORT

A NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION, Christmas in

Newport raises funds for charities each year and has a volunteer base almost 1,500 people strong. In keeping with the generous spirit of the season, all events in the annual program are either free of charge or benefit a nonprofit institution or charity. Standout events include the Newport Nutcracker at Rosecliff and Holidays at the Newport mansions, which includes a tour of the historic estates The Breakers, The Elms and The Marble House, adorned in festive regalia.

Run by the Preservation Society, the mansions are aglow with lavish decorations, fresh flowers, trees and garland, calling upon historic photos for inspiration.

It's an elegant sight to behold and wonderful for those interested in period stylings. The annual doorway decorating contest encourages local businesses, residences and hotels to festoon their doorways with greenery and decorative enhancements by December 6 for judging done on December 8, ensuring the town looks festive at every turn, but it’s the sparkling lights and candles glowing in the windows of the historic homes that set the nostalgic mood.

The outdoor skating rink over at Goat Island is another perennial holiday favorite as are the hot toddies available at the rink-side bar, while the town’s official Christmas tree on Washington Square is well worth a visit. Our personal favorite, though, is the tree on Bowen’s Wharf. The annual tree lighting is set for December 2 with festivities beginning around midday, including a visit from Santa and afternoon live music and singing. The tree is lit officially at 6 p.m., marking the beginning of the holiday season, while Santa and Mrs. Claus typically arrive by boat, weather permitting. And if it’s customarily chilly, don’t miss the opportunity to warm up with the whiskey tasting at Wharf Southern Kitchen and Whiskey Bar.

All photos © Discover Newport, except Breakers photo © Andrew Brooks

Special this year is that 2023 marks the 200th anniversary of the famous “Twas the Night Before Christmas” poem, originally titled “A Visit from St. Nicholas,” first read aloud by poet Clement Clarke Moore on Christmas Eve 1822. Its print debut was in the Troy Sentinel newspaper of Troy, New York, on December 23, 1823. Clement was a resident of Newport, purchasing a home on Catherine Street after retiring from teaching. He died in Newport in 1863. Celebrating and honoring that poem and its history is Pamela McColl’s new book, Twas the Night: The Art and History of the Classic Christmas Poem, and Ms. McColl will be doing a signing and reading event of her new book during the festival.

LEARN MORE discovernewport.com

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UNDER WATER

HERO THE MISSION OF CORAL RESTORATION STBARTH AND ITS LEADER, DAVID BLANCHARD

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T H E H A N G A R | C O R A L R E S T O R A T I O N S T- B A R T H

As a St. Barths native and swim-and-surf instructor, David Blanchard has always felt his home was deeply connected to the sea. An avid free-diver, he has spent hours in the water, ever since he was young; however, around eight years ago he started to notice how the vibrant colors of the sea of his youth—the bright fish and the coral—were sorely missing.

The coral had turned white and was clearly dying, as were the fish who rely on it. He set out then and there to help save the reef, which for him is inextricably linked to the island.

With his determination and the help of a loyal friend and fellow stewards of the sea, he founded Coral Restoration StBarth, an environmental conservation foundation relying on donations to restore, rejuvenate and rebuild the reefs around St. Barths.

Today the all-volunteer team is 12 members strong and their dedication wonderfully evident. Visitors can spend an afternoon with the team helping tend to the coral nursery they’ve created in Grand Cul-de-Sac Lagoon—two full tables long of burgeoning coral. David is in the process of constructing a new, bigger table at the time of this writing, and is hopeful to release the previous materials into the sea this fall.

In the nursery, David and his team witness coral growing at an approximate rate of 1.8 cm every month; once it is big enough, they transfer it and plant it with what they call coral trees, which they attach to rock at the bottom of the sea.

Some of the coral from the nursery also stays in the lagoon in Grand Cul-de-Sac to encourage local wildlife to spawn there as well. The coral trees are nothing short of astounding.

David and his team of fellow divers plant these PVC-material tree structures at the bottom of the sea and tie little pieces of coral with fishing line to the branches to encourage regrowth of new reef. It has to be free-flowing in the water as that is how it grows best; however, it is not a simple process since these trees cannot grow just anywhere. As David explains, “It depends on the water temperature, the amount of oxygen in the water, and sometimes there is too much sediment so the water is not clean enough due to pollution.

Also, you cannot connect it to sand; you need rock.”

right spots through trial and error. As he explains, “We tried outside of Saline, but it didn’t work there. It’s not everywhere around the island that it will work. If the reef is dying in one place, you have to understand why it’s dying. Sometimes you have to take the piece that is still alive and move it somewhere better.” Places that have seen success are the little islands just in front of Gustavia: Les Gros Islets. He has also found success near La Tortue island. “We have seen that the reefs have really taken there as it’s shallow,” he explains.

“The most important thing is to plant everywhere to create as much new reef as possible, as that will bring back the fish.

The fish come back so quickly too, as it’s their natural habitat.

It’s amazing to see.” David also explains that the planting cannot just be done at any time of year. “We have to wait for the best season. April is the best time and then June.”

His biggest foe besides pollution is the algae. Right now, the water is warm, and that is when the algae can thrive. And like all Caribbean islands and the southeast Atlantic (Mexico, South Florida), he also needs to fight off the invasive sargassum seaweed.

He and his team have explored all around the island, hunting for the

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It is a massive issue as once it comes ashore it dies and deposits an orange sediment in the water, which then sucks up all the oxygen, trapping the turtles and fish underneath it and suffocating them. Or they can get stuck on top and burn in the sun. It’s tremendously destructive. David and his team set out to rescue the variety of affected sea creatures and relocate them. As he recalls, “It was bad in Grand Frond, Toiny, Marigot, La Petite Anse, Anse des Cayes—all on that side of the island. Though we were lucky that the wind pushed it along the side of the island, so not too much came on the beach. We took the little turtles and animals and moved them to the other side of the island.” He and his team often organize beach cleanups, not for the sole purpose of beautifying the beach but also to study and learn from the garbage that washes ashore. As he explains, “All the trash arriving from the sea is worth collecting so we can understand where the trash is coming from. Some of the trash is coming from Africa, which we didn’t know before. This way we can better understand about the flow of the sea as it comes to us.”

For David, though, the most important task at hand is protecting and rehabilitating the reefs around the island. In addition to instructing surf

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T H E H A N G A R | C O R A L R E S T O R A T I O N S T- B A R T H

“ Help us save our sea, our island, our reef. The reef is our biggest protection; protection for the beach, for the fish, for the sea turtle, for the lobsters, and thus life comes from the reef.”

and swim, he also works for the local power plant and holds a position in the Collectivité for environmental tourism. His advocacy, knowledge base and local know-how are imperative to the success of the mission. Recently a mandate has been put forth disallowing large yachts to drop anchor in the sand of Colombier as it is destroying the sea life below. As he explains, the area there is a natural reserve and thus is no place for super large anchors. He has also advocated for islanders to install more solar power.

In order for his mission to succeed, he needs help from outside donors to continue to fund his nursery and the tree plantings. He invites visitors and divers alike to come witness what they are doing and help him with these goals. “Help us save our sea, our island, our reef. The reef is our biggest protection; protection for the beach, for the fish, for the sea turtle, for the lobsters, and thus life comes from the reef. If you have no life coming from the reef, then we lose the beauty of our island.” His motive is clear and his dedication complete, but he needs help from others.

Just recently the foundation received a new boat—a donation from a single family that will immensely help their divers to plant more trees and relocate various reefs around the island.

Donations of diving supplies, fishing line and tables for the nursery are also helpful. The foundation works often with the local band of surfers and divers, but as David says, “We need people to help, support and come visit us so we can teach them to respect the water and do things like not walk where it’s too shallow or touch and break the reef. We also have a big problem with sunscreen. Please use sunscreen that is safe for the reef.

I believe that once people come and see what we are doing and understand the impact we are making on the environment, we can all work together to save the sea.” For David it’s personal, his life’s mission, but after speaking with him it’s clear it should be personal for all of us lovers of the island and the sea itself.

LEARN MORE coral-restoration-stbarth.com

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HIDDEN HAVENS MUNYON ISLAND — NORTH PALM BEACH, FLORIDA

A verdant island in the Intercoastal Waterway just off the coastline of North Palm Beach, Munyon Island is home to hiking trails and pavilions available for public use, though it is only accessible via boat, paddleboard or kayak.

As a result, it is home to a variety of birdlife, sea grass and a healthy population of iguanas. Originally called Nuctsachoo by the Seminoles, which means Pelican Island, it once supported one of the largest wading bird rookeries in South Florida. However, its more illustrious past was at the turn of the 20th century when Dr. James Munyon bought the island and two years later, in 1903, completed construction of the Hotel Hygeia, a five-story, 21-room hotel for ailing, wealthy Northerners who came down to Palm Beach to recuperate with tropical weather and Dr. Munyon's

Paw-Paw Elixir, which consisted primarily of fermented papaya juice. The hotel burned to the ground in 1917, and since then the island has remained largely uninhabited. In 1955 it was acquired

by John D. MacArthur and subsequently by the State of Florida in 1981 and is now part of the John D. MacArthur State Park. There is a boat dock and a bridge on site as well as picnic tables, though no restrooms. It makes a wonderful picnic spot and a curious, off-the-beaten-track destination for kayakers and paddleboarders on the Intercoastal.

Photo © 2020 Gordon Pusnik/Shutterstock

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ST BARTH

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WIMCO SBH REAL ESTATE | RCS:881 812 341 RCS Basse-Terre | +590 (0)590 51 27 23 | La Savane, Airport, St Jean, 97133 St Barthelemy

VECTOR

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San Juan Airport Map DEPARTING ON A MAJOR AIRLINE FROM SAN JUAN

TRAV EL IN S TY L E WITH PR IVA TE C HA RTER THRO U G HO U T N O RTH AM ER IC A A N D THE CA R I B B E A N Extensive fleet of modern Pilatus PC-12 and Citation CJ3 Jet aircraft | Block time discounts available with low commitment | ARG/US Gold Rated Safety | Virtuoso Travel Network Preferred Operator

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Tradewind Aviation has been awarded an ARGUS Gold rating, which is held by less than 20% of all US-certificated charter operators.

TRADEWIND EXPANDS

TO FLORIDA AND THE BAHAMAS The new base near Palm Beach is now open for private charter flights throughout the region.

IN RESPONSE TO HIGH DEMAND for personal, streamlined and

convenient regional travel, Tradewind has opened its third regional base, catering to client travel needs throughout the Southeast and the Bahamas.

The new service area features Tradewind’s growing fleet of modern Pilatus PC-12 aircraft, available for on-demand private travel needs throughout the surrounding Southeast area, as well as between the U.S. and the Bahamas. Flights are available for booking on an ondemand basis or with Tradewind’s popular Goodspeed Card charter program, which features flight discounts and other perks. All flights in the region are priced on an occupied rate basis, with no empty leg or reposition fees. The opening of Tradewind’s Southeast hub will serve to meet client needs in key emerging national markets, while

further bolstering the company’s presence in the area and ability to attract new clientele. The base will also prove a strong economic driver in and around the Palm Beach region, while broadening its recruitment opportunities for pilots, ground crew operations and more—a crucial consideration as the aviation industry continues to face labor shortages.

“Our new Southeast hub will be pivotal to our efforts to better serve Tradewind’s growing client base throughout the region,” said Eric Zipkin, Co-Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Tradewind Aviation. “As we continue to further elevate the Tradewind offering and expand to new destinations, our Southeast Florida base will be a major advantage to ensuring the success of our operation and plans for future growth.”

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 41

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VIEW FROM ABOVE

NO RTHEA S T R EG IO N : IS L A N D DETAIL + R O U T E M A P

FOR MAKING US A WINNER! TOP 5 US AIRLINE . . .

FOR THE THIRD YEAR IN A ROW!

C A RIBBE AN REGION B RITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS DETAIL

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C ARIBBE AN REGION OVE RVIE W + ROUTE MAP

SOUT H E AS T REGION BAHAMAS IS LANDS OVERVIEW M A P

2023 | ISSUE 17 | PAGE 43

SuNdowners Sunset libation inspiration from our favorite local spots COW WRECK BEACH BAR, ANEGADA, BVI

Once you’ve made the journey out to Anegada, an out island just 25 kilometers from Virgin Gorda, either by ferry or private air or sea vessel, the first stop should be the infamous Cow Wreck Beach Bar, located on the northwestern end of the island. There, you’ll be greeted by a cow skull at the entrance, along with one of the prettiest white sand beaches on the island.

Named for the 1929 shipwreck of Rocus, a 380-foot freighter whose cargo was cow bones, the bar is in fact partly constructed from the bones that washed ashore, including the aforementioned skull. The staff are some of the kindest people you’ll find. Signature drinks such as the Cow Killer, the bar’s take on the Painkiller, and the Cow Wreck Punch have a three-drink limit, and rightfully so, but are best countered with the bar’s deep-fried conch fritters.

LEARN MORE www.bvitourism.com/cow-wreck-

beach-bar-grill

INGR E DI E N T S — 1 part light rum — 1 part dark rum — ½ part pineapple juice — ½ part orange juice — ¼ part Coco Lopez — Splash of Grenadine Pour ingredients over ice, shake and serve.

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Photo © Mary Baratto

Cow Wreck Punch