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ANDRISEN MORTON Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2014

SUIT SECRETS REVEALED ZEGNA DESIGNS FOR MASERATI

THE LUXE LIFE


CONTENTS Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

8 New Faces: Kelly Stevens 10 Meet Don Law

4 6 14 17 40 58 62 66 68

FASHION 34 36 38 42 44 52

Profile: Brunello Cucinelli Tailoring: Inside a Suit Factory Tour: AG Jeans Details: Pairing Patterns The Luxe Life 5 Fall Essentials

Welcome Letter Ask Craig & Lindsay The Fashion Forum In the Studio with Andrisen Morton Fitness: High Energy World Scene Food: Designers Dish Wheels: Designed to Thrill Anniversary: The Soundtrack of Our Lives 70 At Your Service 72 End Page: My Father, Myself

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.


welcome

FABULOUS FALL WHAT A SENSATIONAL SUMMER WE’VE HAD,

a prominent Denver photographer, hired local models and assembled looks that we think you’ll love. Now, if you see it in these pages, you’ll find it in the store. As we look ahead through the fall and winter months, there’s much more in store at Andrisen Morton. As always, we look forward to welcoming you.

but now it’s on to cooler days, crisp nights, golden aspen, football season! Fall is a wonderful time of year in Colorado, and what better way to welcome the season than by refreshing your wardrobe with some fabulous new clothing? We’ve curated a fall/winter collection without equal in the Rocky Mountain West—or anywhere for that matter. From the latest tailored clothing by Samuelsohn, Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali, Brioni, Isaia and Brunello Cucinelli to footwear by Ferragamo and great casual wear too, we’ve got you covered from head to toe, day and night, business or pleasure. Because we know you want to be able to purchase all the merchandise shown in the magazine, we directed our own men’s fashion photo shoot this season. We commissioned

Warmest regards for a fabulous fall and new year ahead!

Craig & Dave

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All things come from the Earth XENOPHANES


CRAIG&LINDSAY Q:

Other than for weddings and special events, I don’t wear suits much these days. Is it okay to pull out what’s in my closet for occasional dress-up events?

Probably not. Although menswear is evolution rather than revolution, suits that are more than five years old, even from the best makers, will definitely look dated: trousers too long and baggy, jackets too roomy, shoulders too padded. Designers have gradually gone slimmer in suits, sportcoats and trousers, and fabrics have evolved so that today’s suits are more comfortable and travel-friendly than the old stuff in your closet. We’re betting you’ll find our fall ’14 suits so comfortable that you’ll choose to wear them in more casual settings, even when no suit is required.

Q:

Is it okay to text or email my sales associate when I have a wardrobe question? How can I maximize our relationship? Not only is it okay, but they would totally appreciate it! (Well maybe not at 3:00 a.m…) Our sales people have a wealth of information that can help you look your best every day. They can email you photos of new items as they arrive in store that will work with what you’ve already bought. They can inform you about the bestfitting jeans. They can help you match colors and patterns or figure out which tie to wear with which shirt collar. (For example, your new skinny

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FALL 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

tie is not likely to work with a cutaway collar shirt, but yes, you can wear the brown suede shoes with your gray suit!) They can also suggest the perfect gift, wrap it and send it without you needing to leave your desk. Never be afraid to contact your sales associate for any fashion-related issue: their passion for fine clothing is the reason they chose this career, and your trust in them is the ultimate compliment.

I see that a lot of my favorite brands have their own stores: Q: do you carry the same styles that they do? Sometimes there’s crossover, but we try to customize our mix to the needs of our community. While fashion has become somewhat international, our buyers know their customers personally so it’s easy for them to fine-tune assortments to specific tastes and lifestyles. Another advantage of shopping an independent store: since we carry so many top brands, we can suggest how to mix your favorite pieces so you’re not dressed head-to-toe in a single designer. This type of brandblending adds creativity and personality to your look so you won’t see yourself coming and going. Stop by and we’ll show you how to do it!


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new faces

STRIKING. CHIC. MODERN. KELLY STEVENS, VISUALS

These three words not only describe the look of the store’s windows and displays, but also our new visuals staff member who designs them. Meet Kelly Stevens. Born in Boynton Beach, Florida, Kelly grew up wanting to be an FBI or CIA agent, but her love of fashion as an art form led her down a different path. And we’re glad it did! She earned a B.S. in Fashion Merchandising & Marketing from Kent State University, then moved to Colorado in 2012 to manage the Michael Kors store. Now she wants to hike a fourteener! That’s a long way up for a Florida gal. Kelly’s unique style and discerning eye bring a fresh, energetic approach to the store inside and out. Say hello next time you happen by. Celebrity look-alikes: Natalie Portman or Robin Wright (the evil wife on House Of Cards) Hobbies: Running, dining out and enjoying live music at the Ogden Theater, Hi-Dive or Red Rocks Dream destination: Bali (or any exotic beach) Favorite food: Great pizza Favorite film: Stand By Me What she’d wear every day if she could: Skinny jeans, boots and a white V-neck Why AM is special: “The detailed customer service never misses a beat.”

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E V E R YO N E ’ S TA L K I N G A B O U T E LWAY ’ S . “BEST STEAK” 5280 Magazine A M E R I C A’ S TO P R E S TAU R A N T S Zagat TO P 1 0 S T E A K H O U S E S IN THE USA Gayot “ H E AV E N LY ” Gabby Gourmet Restaurant Guide BEST STEAKHOUSE Westword

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LAWof the LAND MEET DON LAW

Friend, Oilman and Vineyard Owner of Law Estate Wines

BORN INTO A FARMING FAMILY IN LA JUNTA,

all afternoon and at the end of that day, young Don had a job! In a business he knew very little about. Don’s career as a ski bum came to an abrupt end after three days. And what a fork in life’s road that he came upon just by jumping on that gondola car instead of the next.

Don Law spent his early years in the small farming community of Rocky Ford. The family moved to Colorado Springs when he was six, but Don returned every summer to work the farm with his grandparents. He earned a civil engineering degree from Colorado State University, but the job market was brutal in the early ’70s. After papering his bedroom walls with rejection letters, Don had had enough and moved to Vail to be a ski bum. A couple days later, he happened to share a slow gondola ride with a friendly guy who turned out to be the president of an oil company. They talked and skied together

NEXT STOP: THE OIL FIELDS OF VENTURA, CALIFORNIA This happenstance was and is one of the defining moments of Don’s life. It launched his very successful career as an oilman, and also led to his second love—fine wine. Back when Don worked in Ventura, he’d scour the wineries around Santa Barbara and Santa Ynez on his days off. The oil business next took Don to Brighton, Colorado and Casper, Wyoming, and in 1979, he was working in downtown Denver. That same year, Andrisen Morton

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operations side of the business and began focusing on acquiring non-operated assets. Only this time, Don has a couple of engineers and a geologist on staff to help. Now he has the time to devote to pursuing a long-held dream of creating an ultra-premium wine brand from the ground up.

opened its first store at 17th Street and Stout. Don recalls looking at the fine clothing in the windows, but he couldn’t afford to shop there. A year later, Don quit his job and struck out as a one-man company called Prima Exploration. Success wasn’t immediate. Oil had peaked around the time Don started Prima, then the price started a slow ride down. “It was sort of a lousy time to start the company,” he says with a chuckle. In the early days, Prima promoted drilling deals to larger companies and would get an ownership percentage if a deal sold. When oil prices crashed in 1986, rather than panic, Don saw a huge opportunity. He began buying oil properties at big discounts and became an operator. “As a 30-year-old engineer,” says Don, “I could produce oil a whole lot cheaper than the big guys.” Prima continued to buy and operate oil wells quite successfully for the next 16 years. In 2013, Don sold the

WELCOME TO PEACHY CANYON Over the years, Don’s love of fine wine continued. He and his wife Susie dreamed of owning a small vineyard somewhere between Santa Barbara and Monterey. Maybe it was Don’s farming roots, but instead of looking to buy an existing vineyard, they decided to start one from scratch. With the help of a notable viticulturist, in 2007 they chose a beautiful and very promising 230-acre site in the hills west of Paso Robles at the top of Peachy Canyon. Law Estate Wines was born. Vines were planted in 2008,

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nurtured using sustainable farming practices, and first harvested in 2010. Grapes are all hand picked and hand sorted. Cutting-edge production and fermentation practices are combined with old-world craftsmanship to create superior, ultra-premium wines. Andrisen Morton had the distinct pleasure of serving Law Estate Wines’ first vintage this past spring during our Lucchese Boots trunk show. Our customers loved Law Estate’s three Rhone-style blends and its Syrah—and the wine press agrees. For example, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate noted that “It’s not often you see this level of quality on a first release. Law Estate Wines needs to be on everyone’s radar!” Just last year, Law Estate Wines unveiled its all-new tasting room, a stunning contemporary structure sitting atop Peachy Canyon Road. With sweeping views of the vineyard

and the surrounding hills, and truly exceptional facilities for private tastings, the winery is a must-stop in Paso Robles wine country. When asked about finding parallels in the oil business and the wine business, Don answers that he embraces the differences far more than the similarities. “My formal training is in engineering, where everything is analytical and quantifiable. Being in the wine business is really about farming, and the winemaking itself is totally artisanal. Plus you have the marketing and branding. It’s a whole new aspect of life for me.” Starting with his farming background, and continuing into the oil business and now to Law Estate Wines, Don has always had strong ties to the earth his feet are so firmly planted upon. One might say he’s the Law of the land.

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Don is an avid skier, cyclist and golfer—which he lists in that order on the fun scale. He serves on the non-profit boards of ACE Scholarships and Colorado Uplift and recently completed his tenure on the Dean’s Board of CSU’s Engineering School. Susie and Don have been married for 37 years and have three children. His daughter and sonin-law are general managers of Law Estate Wines, and one son works with Don at Prima. When shopping at Andrisen Morton, Don favors Isaia sportcoats and Agave casual wear.


the FASHION forum PITTI PARTY

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wice a year, the Tuscan city of Florence, Italy welcomes 1,050 exhibitors and more than 30,000 national and international fashion industry insiders to Pitti Uomo, a trade show like no other. Staged in a 16th-century fortress, Pitti is a place to see and be seen: a promenade affectionately known as Peacock Avenue is packed with men dressed to the nines, fervently followed by an equally impressive number of photographers from magazines and websites worldwide. Espresso is sipped in equal measure to bottles of Italian beer and the quintessential cocktail, an Aperol Spritz. At the most recent Pitti showcasing spring ’15 fashion, the world-renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli kicked the show off with an exclusive one-night performance with the Cameristi del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino that included an emotive rendition of Schubert’s Ave Maria. The next morning the Prime Minister of Italy officially opened the show, followed by a whirlwind of fashion shows and festas. These included a Gucci museum cocktail party, a Z Zegna performance replete with acrobats and models, an Eton garden party at the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, a Brunello Cucinelli dinner at Il Giardino Torrigiani and an Ermanno Scervino presentation at the Forte Belvedere (where Kim Kardashian and Kanye West held their nuptials) with guests including... Kanye West! Should you ever find yourself in Florence during this celebration of style, soak it all in. It’s one of the sartorial wonders of the — William Buckley world.

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LOOKING GOOD What do women want? To answer the age-old question, we surveyed 100 women and asked them to prioritize what they notice first in terms of male appearance. Not surprisingly, trumped only by good grooming and a great smile, women pay attention to what guys wear. Clearly, good clothes speak volumes about a man, followed closely by (in order of priority) his eyes, his shoes and his watch. To the question “I would immediately fall in love with a guy wearing ___ because ___,” we got some terrific responses. A lot of women mentioned “nice shoes” because “they indicate good taste.” “A gorgeous sportcoat” because “it exudes confidence, charm and casual sophistication…” “A cashmere sweater” because “it shows he’s able to care for something delicate and valuable: today a sweater, tomorrow a woman…” “Great smelling aftershave or cologne...” “Upscale casual clothes” because “it shows he’s relaxed and comfortable with himself…” And perhaps our favorite: “Anything that looks like he put some thought into it!” Because “dressing well is an indicator of self-confidence and a display of respect for colleagues and friends. If he puts thought into his appearance, one can assume he’ll put thought into his work and his relationships…” Time to go shopping! — Nora McCarten


SPRING ’15 FORECAST

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BRIGHT EYED

ust because summer is over doesn’t mean you should ignore your eyewear. For men this fall, the Vision Council’s Eyecessorize industry report defines the major trends as simple, clean-cut square and circular shapes, colored lenses in standout shades of green and blue, and metallic and patterned accents on the bridge and arms. In addition, Eyecessorize also forecasts an increased popularity in colored frames that offer a welcome break from the standard black and tortoise options. These new takes on classic eyewear will keep you seeing the bright side all year long. — NoraMcCarten

We interviewed Sabine Le Chatelier, of Premiere Vision (the world’s leading fabric trade show) for her take on men’s spring fashion. Here’s what to expect when the weather warms up: “According to the top fabric mills, suiting fabrics will have a more casual feel for spring ’15, a trend that will influence all categories of menswear. Fabrics will feature more synthetics in the blend, creating a somewhat lustrous finish: not exactly shiny but technicalinspired in a contemporary way. Lighter colors are taking hold in suits and sportcoats: cool tones like pale grays and shades of blue. There’s also a strong linen trend in suits, but very sophisticated, a clear departure from the soft crinkled linens of yesterday. The new linens are blended with cotton or wool for a fresh modern look with a rustic touch. “In ties, expect more non-silk styles that reinforce the casual message. In sportswear, you’ll see new sophisticated knit tops in luxury yarns, fashioned into slim T-shirts and polos that work under a suit or sportcoat. And don’t be afraid to wear prints, even florals: these are what will separate the men from the boys…” — Karen Alberg Grossman

STYLISH READS 20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads by Jim Heimann and Alison A. Nieder is an eyecatching retrospective of the milestones that shaped the world’s style. Creative imagery of 400 fashion advertisements from the 1900s forms a timeline of the trendsetting looks that defined the century. With text in English, French and German, 20th Century Fashion documents the inception of revered brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein and follows their development as exemplified by their ads. As the years (and the book) progress, a fullpage visual captures the mood of each decade. The beauty and individuality of the advertisements display the overarching advancements in art, print, photography and clothing designs made in the last century. Men in This Town by Giuseppe Santamaria is a uniquely presented portrayal of the modern man’s sartorial style. Through interviews and observations, Santamaria allows us to get to know a variety of creatively dressed men in their natural habitats, from New York, London and Milan to Tokyo and Sydney. Candid street shots capture the eccentric and intriguing trends of each region, taking us on a journey across the globe to explore how each culture’s traditions impact the way men dress. The Glass of Fashion, a memoir by Cecil Beaton, shares a man’s muses, influences and encounters in the 1920s fashion world. As a portraitist and photographer of fashion’s top-notch names, Beaton became famous for his impeccable taste and discerning eye. He tells how his experiences with the luxurious likes of Dior and Chanel combined with his personal realities to sculpt his view on fashion and life. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is back on the rack to inspire a new generation of fashionistas. — Louisa Blasier

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IN THE STUDIO WITH ANDRISEN MORTON

WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU’LL FIND Nine months ago, we went to market seeking out the best products from all over the world. We hope you enjoy perusing the next 18 pages as a result of our efforts. Hurry in or risk finding these great looks in someone else’s closet. Photography © 2014 Nicholas DeSciose

Suit: Canali

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Brunello Cucinelli

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Outerwear: Mabrun Shirt: Eton of Sweden Trouser: PT01 Shoes: Di Bianco

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Outerwear: Mabrun Trouser: PT01 Shoes: Ferragamo

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Sportcoat: Canali Tie: Canali Shirt: Eton of Sweden Pants: Samuelsohn Belt: W.Kleinberg

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Sweater: Gran Sasso Shirt: Robert Talbott Trouser: Hiltl Shoes: Gravati Bag: Borlino

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Isaia Shoes: Gravati

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LEFT Outerwear: Corneliani Shirt: Eton of Sweden Jeans: AG Shoes: Gravati RIGHT Outerwear: Corneliani Shirt: Culturata Trouser: Hiltl Shoes: Ferragamo

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Sweater: Gran Sasso Shirt: Culturata Trouser: Hiltl Shoes: Magnanni

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Watches: Shinola Bags: Borlino

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Dolcepunta

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Brioni Made to Measure Shoes: Di Bianco

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Isaia

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Outerwear, Sweater & Shirt: Peter Millar 5 Pocket: PT05

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Sportcoat: Samuelsohn Shirt: Eton of Sweden Trouser: Samuelsohn Belt: W.Kleinberg Shoes: Gravati

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Sportcoat: Boglioli Shirt: Eton of Sweden Belt: W.Kleinberg Jeans: J Brand

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Sweater: Gran Sasso Shirt: Robert Talbott 5 Pocket: Gardeur Shoes: Ferragamo

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profile

The new Cucinelli tailored clothing is crafted in the recently purchased D’Avenza factory, reputed to be the finest in the world. “Expanding into fine tailoring was a natural evolution of our menswear collection,” Cucinelli explains. Since suits require a different level of expertise than sportswear, he sought out, purchased and collaborated with this highly respected clothing facility, working carefully with the artisans to ensure that the suits have his particular fit and relaxed sensibility. These are full-canvas garments, entirely hand-made. It’s “THE JACKET’S HALFLINED INTERIOR the shoulder that’s particularly unique: MINIMIZES THE semi-constructed so that there’s enough WEIGHT.” structure for shape (so it doesn’t look Brunello Cucinelli like a sweater) but not so much to make it stiff and unnatural. “The broad but soft shoulder paired with the trimmer waist and shorter length of the jacket creates a modern aesthetic. The minimal construction allows for easy wear; the half-lined interior minimizes the weight and allows the jacket to conform to the body,” Cucinelli explains. While the company has always been known for elegant sportswear, the new emphasis is on clothes with a more tailored image. Even outerwear has a more sartorial touch: overcoats are about six centimeters longer. Fabrics are less tech-y and more sartorial, many in fine wools and cashmeres. The look is still relaxed, but definitely more professional. Brunello Cucinelli started out in 1978 at age 25 with a small workshop, evolving his business into an international luxury brand with more than 1,200 employees. Based in the 14th-century hamlet of Solomeo, Cucinelli restored a castle to its ancient splendor and purchased a second facility at the foot of the town. In addition to his world-class fashion, he is recognized for his humanistic ideals, placing people at the center of his enterprise, always with respect for the environment. In 2013 he received an award from the Ministry for Cultural Heritage for contributing to the moral, cultural and civic growth of his country.

Brunello Cucinelli has been recognized as a custodian of beauty and creator of a humanistic business based on respect for his workers, and for the environment.

Reinventing THE SUIT

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI IS CHANGING THE WAY MEN LOOK, AND FEEL, IN A SUIT. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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hroughout the ages, men’s clothing designers have tried to create suits that convey both power and comfort, yet too often it’s a tradeoff. Power suits are frequently rigid and/or overly structured so the wearer looks uncomfortable; soft suits can lack shape and substance meaning the wearer loses the presence and panache that a proper suit conveys. But with his recent foray into tailored clothing, Brunello Cucinelli is reinventing the suit as a luxury garment that men can live in!

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T W O S E DA N S . O N E S O U L .

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tailoring

Exceptional Interlinings Zegna suits are full-canvas and made with the best interlinings in the world. This allows the jacket to lay beautifully against your body and ensures longevity.

Superior Production

Quality Buttons

In all, 500 hands from the familyowned, vertically integrated company contribute to the making of each suit, from acquiring the wool to weaving the innovative fabrics to the final finishing work on your barchetta breast pocket.

Buttons are made of highquality Corozo, genuine horn or mother of pearl and color coated in-house to perfectly match the hue of your garment.

LUXURY SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Modern Fit

Fine Fabric

The slightly shorter jacket and a softer, more sculpted silhouette will make you look and feel like a million bucks.

The fine wool fabric “breathes,” so it’s cool and comfortable even in overheated office buildings.

Inside a Suit

At first glance, these two dark gray suit jackets appear to be similar. But take a closer look (or feel) and you’ll quickly see that color is the only thing they have in common. The jacket on the left is made by Ermenegildo Zegna, produced in its European factories from one of its proprietary high-performance fabrics. On the right is a scratchy, boxy bargain version, available at a national menswear chain famous for its price-slashing promotions. Sure, you can get three for under $500… but you get what you pay for.

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Poor Fit Stiff shoulders and a full, boxy cut look unnatural and out of date. You deserve better!

Uncomfortable Low armholes make moving uncomfortable: every time you lift your arms, the entire body of your jacket lifts with you.

Inferior Fabric Generic, utilitarian fabric is rough and wrinkles easily.

IMAGES BY BRIAN KLUTCH, JACKET COURTESY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, PRODUCTION ASSISTANT SHYAM PATEL, SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM PAIT

BARGAIN SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Cheap Interlinings Shoddy inner workings are glued into the suit, so after only a few cleanings, the glue will begin to wear down and come through the fabric in unsightly patches.

In a spoof that aired earlier this year on SNL, comedian Vanessa Bayer suggested that “affordable and absorbent” suits from this national chain were better suited to wiping spills and soaking up bacon grease. Because of the chain’s “innovative buy-one-get-three-free pricing,” she explains, “they’re effectively cheaper than paper towels” and “I can feel good about throwing them away when I’m done.” We cringe at the idea of a disposable wardrobe and prefer to invest in classic clothing that’s made to last. Come into the store and see for yourself why top-quality tailoring is the obvious choice.

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factory tour

We, along with other stores in the Forum Group, recently visited their state-of-the-art LA facility to gain some insight. In the beginning, AG owner Mr. Ku created, designed and engineered the technology-driven factory himself. To call him a perfectionist is an understatement: those who know him well say he’s a genius. A few examples: Ku recently replaced all AG washing machines in order to save significantly on water and electricity. The new machines use only 40 percent of the water and electricity of the old ones, while doubling capacity. The water purification system is so advanced that you can virtually drink the water! Sewing machines were reconfigured with special feeders so that the tension on the thread remains perfectly constant from beginning to end of the sew. Needles (angled so they never tear the fabric) are replaced daily, rather than weekly, which is the norm at other factories. An average pair of AG jeans is touched by 75 pairs of hands; aged jeans by 100. Fabric is allowed to rest for 24 hours after it’s rolled out (modern stretch fabrics need this recovery time); it’s then laser cut 40 layers high, rather than 100. These extra steps might not be immedi“AG’S EXCLUSIVE ately appreciated by the consumer, but TECHNOLOGY SERVES TO CREATE they ultimately make for a better-looking A BETTER PRODUCT, and more comfortable garment, not to mention a safer planet. AND A BETTER There are 25 artists in AG’s design PLANET.” department, under the direction of Mark Wiesmayr. “The fabric is precursor to the jean,” he tells the group. “A good 90 percent of our fabrics are proprietary that we develop with the mills, mostly in Japan. (Our inventory here is 1.2 million yards.) We use some American denim and only the finest components like Italian hardware and findings and YKK zippers, manufactured to the exact size and fit of each jean model.” Wiesmayr lists three criteria consumers use to judge jeans before purchasing: the look, the touch and the fit. “Then for repeat purchases, they judge by performance after wearing and washing. This is why testing is such a huge part of our process. Bleaching can cause denim to lose tensile strength, One does not gain a reputation as the “world’s best denim as can abrasive stonewashing, so we’re using some advanced manufacturer” or the “world’s best-fitting jean” by accilaser techniques. We also test for color consistency, shrinkdent. Nor does one invest in a mirror-image second factory age, etc. There are 52 quality control checks in the process.” if business is not booming in the first. AG’s 480,000-sq.-ft. As if his engineering expertise were not enough, Mr. Ku is LA facility produces about 50,000 pairs of jeans weekly! Its also a scratch golfer; he’s recently created a golf collection new 470,000-sq.-ft. facility employing 1,200 people in centhat’s already in demand at country clubs and pro shops. But tral Mexico will produce about the same number. his heart remains in denim, in creating a better product, and How did AG, in just over a decade, grow to this stature? a better planet, for generations of AG wearers to come.

AG Jeans:

The Art of Denim

TOTALLY ECO-FRIENDLY AND STATE OF THE ART, AG COMBINES NEW TECHNOLOGY WITH OLDWORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP FOR VIRTUALLY PERFECT JEANS! BY CRAIG ANDRISEN

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f i n e s w e d i s h s h i rt m a k e r s i n c e 


fitness

with movements that use a variety of weights and levels of resistance to build strength and flexibility, and a focused core routine that defines the abdominal muscles and works deeply in the transverse abdominals. The workout concludes with a high-intensity, agility-based cardio session.

When can someone expect to see results? You’ll feel things happening in your body right away, and you’ll start to see results within the first week. It kind of feels like you have the flu or something because you’re not just sore in one spot; your whole body is sore because you’re waking everything up, even the smaller muscles. But you’ll be motivated and it forces you to form a really deep connection with yourself.

HEALTH AND FITNESS PHENOM TRACY ANDERSON ON TRAINING THE MODERN MAN. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI Trainer Tracy Anderson has transformed the bodies of celebrities like Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Lopez. With over 14 years experience, four studios, 160-plus DVDs and a meal replacement shake already under her belt, it’s no surprise that she’s turning her attention to men. After testing her method on celebs like Robert Downey Jr., she’s added men’s classes at her studio and teamed up with XBOX to develop at-home, male-focused workouts.

How is your program different from what’s out there? It’s time for men to branch out of their workout ruts. Men want to look good in their suits, and they want to function like athletes without being overdeveloped. Men want to be physically challenged, so when they become really good at something, they end up continually adding more weight. But that just builds bulky mass and can create micro tears in their muscle fibers. There are more forward-thinking, progressive ways of achieving what’s possible with our bodies. My workouts change every 10 days, so no one will ever plateau. A typical workout will include a full-body warm-up, an arm routine, a lower-body workout that employs planks along

We tend to think of women as the ones who are focused on their imperfections, but men are just as aware, concerned and insecure about their bodies and deal with the same frustrations when they walk into a big gym or an intimidating cycling studio.

You have studios on both coasts and clients all over the world. How do you stay healthy while traveling? Your body is like a computer: if you don’t treat it properly and it gets a lot of viruses it may still work, but it doesn’t work optimally. So I think people need to travel with a certain awareness and mindfulness. Just because you’re away from your gym or your DVDs or your preferred teacher or trainer, that’s not an excuse to skip your workout. The body does not like to operate in an inconsistent manner. It likes to be treated properly.

Can you share some tips for healthy snacking? It’s important not to snack on things that are artificial. If you want potato chips, then go for a bag that’s organic with the fewest ingredients. I like Kettle Chips, but Pop Chips (which claim to be healthy) are highly processed with a ton of sodium and ingredients that you can’t pronounce.

How do you motivate your clients to make sure they keep showing up? Not to sound cheesy, but people don’t value how precious life is sometimes. We are meant to move, to have energy and be physical. To stop achieving goals for your body is like a slow kiss of death. I honestly don’t look at what I do as being in the business of vanity: I’m in the business of celebrating life and celebrating the body you’ve been given and its potential. Go for a natural high!

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COURTESY OF MIRANDA PENN TURIN

High Energy

What surprised you most when you started training men?


P E R F O R M A N C E .

C O L L E C T I O N .

S O F T .


Pairing Patterns

Typically, there are two mistakes fledgling fashionistas make in color selections. For those who favor eye-popping color combinations, the two most obvious are 1) choosing colors that clash and 2) being too flamboyant. The other, particularly now that tonal ensembles are again stylish, is selecting colors so monochromatic they fade into one another. If eye-popping color is your fashion mantra, avoid colors that clash, or are flashy and loud. (Always get a second opinion.) Remember to alternate the tonal intensity of garments immediately next to one another; avoid pairing a flamboyantly colored necktie with an equally outrageous dress shirt. Remember, opposites attract. If monochrome is more your cup of tea, add visual interest by varying the color hue in each garment. Or, layer different, but related, surface textures atop similarly colored garments. Marry a nappy cotton flannel shirt and a texturally rich wool necktie to a cashmere sportcoat, then accent with a wool, linen or loosely woven cotton pocket square.

SIMPLE HOW-TOS FOR ADDING VISUAL INTEREST. BY ANDY STINSON DIRECTION Never mind John Molloy, America’s former selfproclaimed fashion guru, who warned three generations of men against mixing motifs when he wrote in his Dress for Success to “never put two patterns together.” Those familiar with fashion history credit this admonition with putting a near 35-year chill on adventurously styled menswear. Also to be ignored is Molloy’s equally absurd “dress code rule” for pattern-mix management: “Always separate patterns by a solid.” Mind Molloy’s strict advice and you’ll appear dated and conservative. There are, however, a few “soft rules” that can be used to guide you toward interesting, handsome style statements that consistently garner rave reviews and admiring glances.

A pattern that runs in one direction should never be positioned immediately next to a garment with a pattern that runs either 1) in the same direction, or 2) at a 90-degree angle. Instead, choose a non-directional (polkadot, paisley, foulard), diagonal (repp), or multidirectional (plaid) complement.

MOOD Sometimes called “attitude,” mood typically refers to a garment’s seasonal theme or its

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position on the elegant-tocasual spectrum. For example, novelty and conversational neckwear, along with some repp and diagonal-striped ties, are typically sportcoat motifs and shouldn’t be paired with a serious dress suit. Seasonally speaking, madras plaids and linens are most appropriate during the warmer months and should be worn with a blazer or a lightweight spring suit.

SCALE Scale refers to a pattern’s size. Generally subtle in execution and sometimes indiscernible at a distance, small- or micro-scale motifs include pencil and pinstripes, miniature paisleys, pin dots, graph checks and tattersalls. Large scale motifs are visually bold, brazen and aggressively executed: Bengal and awning stripes, giant paisleys, large scale geometrics, oversized “nickel” dots and windowpane plaids. The rule of thumb is to significantly vary the scale of each element in your outfit. To achieve a visually dramatic but still sophisticated ensemble, complement a narrow pencil-stripe dress shirt with a bold diagonalstripe or giant paisley tie.

TEXTURE Opposites don’t generally attract when it comes to mixing and matching textures. For example, a cashmere or wool flannel tie is best paired with a suit in a similarly lofty fabric. Likewise, pair matte finishes together, and complement visually radiant elements with garments of a similar luster.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN KLUTCH, STYLING BY SHYAM PATEL

details

COLOR


the LUXE LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY & WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY


VINTAGE FLAIR


SUBTLE BOLDNESS


SIMPLE ELEGANCE


5

FALL ESSENTIALS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEMS OF THE SEASON—AND HOW TO WEAR THEM.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS / ART DIRECTION & STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY


1. THE BOOT Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got dress shoes and sneakers, but what do you wear with those casual inbetween looks? This boot is the answer. Mid-height boots keep you warm while still looking fashionable, and suede or leather can be worn throughout the winter except on the wettest of days. (Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to waterproof them before the first wear.)


FALL ESSENTIALS

2. THE CUTAWAY

COLLAR SHIRT Formerly seen only on solid dress shirts, cutaway collars can now be found as a dressier detail on patterned sport shirts. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine to skip the tie, or try one in knit, wool or cashmere for a fun departure from the standard silk.


3. THE SLIM SUIT Before fabric or even brand, the first thing others will notice about your suit is the fit. With its narrower leg, shorter jacket, and all around trim look, the slim suit can complement any man, no matter his age or size. Aim for a very slight break in the pants; the hem should just caress the top of your shoe.


FALL ESSENTIALS

4. THE SOFT COAT This deconstructed jacket takes the bulk out of layering. You can move easily, stay cool, and look put together all at the same time. Because of its softer expression, it’s much more at home with jeans, cargoes and 5-pocket pants than your stiffer, structured sportcoats. It’s a versatile alternative to a sweater or can easily be layered over one. You’ll be 10 times more comfortable but look just as appropriate.


COPY BY SHYAM PATEL. FASHION ASSISTANTS LOUISA BLASIER AND SHYAM PATEL. GROOMING BY EMILEA MAUS. MODELS EDUARDO RAMOS AND CHRIS MOSIER @ FORD.

5. THE WOOL

5-POCKET PANT The wool 5-pocket pant is dressier than a jean, but just as comfortable. It’s warmer than a chino or twill, but just as elegant. It can be dressed up or down to take you from the office to a nice evening out. Trust us: you’ll be living in this style all season.


world scene

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Experience life’s little luxuries. BALLET BECOMES YOU

Ballet Hispanico is the foremost Latino dance company in the United States. This dazzling young group of wonderfully talented dancers, with a repertoire of over 100 works, creates a brilliant theatrical experience performed to sold-out audiences in America, Europe and South America. “We combine the artistry, technique and physicality of the dancers and imbue ballet with contemporary and Spanish dance,” explains artistic director Eduardo Vilaro. “It’s the passion of the Latino world.” In 2015, Ballet Hispanico will be appearing across the country in cities including Chicago, New York and Washington D.C. To get the insider experience, sign on as a Patron: you’ll meet the dancers, watch rehearsals and even travel with the company.

Near the markets and not far from the Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, secluded on a quiet, narrow street, a modest door opens to an elaborate atrium lined with balconies in rich wood. A former 19th-century palace, the Riad Ayadina is a mixture of light and shadows, cozy nooks and open spaces. The three rooms and six suites have four-poster beds (strewn with rose petals to celebrate your arrival) and copper baths. There’s a swimming pool, hot tub and a spa offering massages, facials and a traditional Moroccan Hammam bath. The charming French owner oversees accommodations and personally arranges the lavish menus. Have breakfast on the roof terrace with views over the old city into the mountains, and dine by candlelight on a three-course fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine in your own private courtyard.

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TOP: COURTESY OF EDUARDO PATINO

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THIS DESK IS YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND

NEED A LIFT? Davos, Switzerland is the highest city in Europe, home to the amazing Parsenn Mountain (a favorite of freestylers and snowboarders), and nearby, the new InterContinental Davos. This opulent hotel with a unique golden egg design by Oikos has spacious rooms, each with a balcony overlooking Davos and the mountains. There are three restaurants (at the Capricorn, an alpine brasserie, culinary director Alex Kroll has created a surprisingly delicious hay soup, featuring a Champagne/white wine base and hay grown at or above 2,000 meters). The Alpine Spa uses La Prairie products and indigenous herbs.

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If you work hard at your desk, it might be time to choose one that works as hard as you do. Incorporating the principle that human beings feel better when they move around periodically, the Stir Kinetic Desk can “learn” your habits and remind you when it’s time to change positions. It can be programmed with your standing and sitting height preferences (a simple double tap will move it up or down), and can even sense and track your standing time and the calories burned while you’re on your feet. Plus it’s WiFi and Bluetooth enabled. Now sit. Good desk.


food

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER OF ETON

LOETJE, AMSTERDAM “At Loetje, I always order the tenderloin with fries. I really enjoy cooking simple things, so at home it is most likely a pasta with fresh ingredients from the market.”

GIANLUCA ISAIA

GENNARINO ESPOSITO, NAPLES “I love to cook veal escalope with red wine and mushrooms. When dining out my favorite restaurant is Gennarino Esposito in Vico Equense.”

Designers Dish

GOOD TASTE RUNS FROM FASHION TO FOOD. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

JOHN VARVATOS

THE OLD MILL, EGREMONT, MASSACHUSETTS “If I’m cooking at home it would probably be something Mexican. But my very favorite place to eat is The Old Mill.” Says owner and chef Terry Moore, “The Old Mill Restaurant has been specializing in fresh seafood since opening in 1978. Oysters are featured daily and Chincoteagues from the Chesapeake Bay area are amongst the most popular. They are a medium-size oyster with a particularly refreshing, briny flavor. They’re shucked to order and served with a classic mignonette sauce on the side.”

MIGNONETTE SAUCE (makes ½ cup) 1 T coarsely cracked black pepper 2 T finely chopped shallots ½ cup French red wine vinegar Chopped chives and salt to taste

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ARNOLD SILVERSTONE OF SAMUELSOHN & HICKEY FREEMAN

TRATTORIA DELL’ARTE, NEW YORK CITY “Trattoria Dell’Arte is right around the corner from our New York offices. It’s been around for decades. The food has always been good, but I remember going there many years ago and it was very crowded. There was a long wait and a lot of attitude from the staff. Truthfully, it was more trouble than it was worth. “Then two or three years ago I started going back. I’m not sure if they changed management or just had a change of heart, but now they greet everyone by name and with a handshake, and they give you a glass of prosecco while you wait. “It was a big lesson to me about the importance of service (and one I try to apply to my own business). Though I always loved the food, I never would have called it my favorite until they made it a warm and pleasant atmosphere. They work hard and they make it feel like eating at home (but better).”

FUN FACT: Trattoria Dell’Arte is centrally located between several of New York’s iconic performance venues, including Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall and Radio City Music Hall.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CASA TUA, MIAMI

ROBERT STOCK OF ROBERT GRAHAM: MINETTA TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY

“I don’t go out often but I really like the burger at Minetta Tavern in New York. It’s a cool place because they have good music and they make a great margarita.”

FUN FACT: Minetta Tavern first opened in Greenwich Village in 1937. A food critic from Time Out New York called the Black Label Burger “the first pricey burger I’ve tasted that’s worth every penny.”

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“I like very much to stay at home and have pizza with my family and my friends. My favorite dish to cook is pasta with fresh tomato sauce and basil; I like the simple recipes so typical of our Umbrian tradition. But if I am away from home and have to choose a restaurant, I like Casa Tua in Miami.”

ABOVE: Sip a classic Italian aperitif like a Negroni or an Aperol Spritz at Casa Tua’s inviting bar. Casa Tua’s chef’s table caters to private parties and special guests (like Brunello Cucinelli).


DENVER’S PREMIER

REAL ESTATE COMPANY

r


wheels DESIGNED TO

Thrill

A LOOK INSIDE THE MASERATI QUATTROPORTE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA LIMITED EDITION. BY DAVID A. ROSE

Italy is renowned for many fine products: cuisine, wines and luxury fashions instantly come to mind. But high on the list of Italian gems are its exotic sports cars. Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati set the bar for fast and exquisitely designed racing machines. Every so often this automotive world crosses paths with the world of high-end fashions, but rarely have the results been so intriguing. To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Maserati marque, the company has collaborated with top fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna to offer a limited series of 100 Maserati Quattroporte highperformance luxury cars. The 100 numbered cars represent each year Maserati has been in production. An exclusive Owner’s When two highly respected global compaCollection kit is nies of this caliber work together on a project, Ermenegildo Zegna’s gift with purchase. it becomes a celebration of Italian production The kit includes and design not just from a standpoint of personal accessories and 10 yards of Zegna mechanical know-how, but also of fabric innosilk in the same vation. Ermenegildo Zegna was established as chevron pattern used a fine woolen mill in 1910 and today is known on the car’s seats. not only for its clothing designs, but also for its unparalleled creation of original fabrics. Reminiscent of the finest Zegna suit, the silk fabric used for the car’s roof lining exhibits a tasteful and classic touch. The combination of leather and silk appears in soft shades of gray and cappuccino, which exude the tone of a Zegna menswear collection and give the vehicle its strong masculine identity. The exterior shade, developed exclusively for the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition, is called Platinum Silk. The exterior appeal of the car is further enhanced by the stunning 20” polished wheels. To drive a beautiful car is very satisfying, but the experience would be quite lacking if the car’s performance did not match its elegant looks. In this regard, the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition will not disappoint. Thanks to its twin turbo V/8 and 530 horsepower, the car can catapult from 0 to 60 MPH in less than 4.7 seconds and reach a top speed of 191. Not only will the owner turn heads as he cruises along Main Street, but the vehicle’s speed and handling will impress even the most accomplished driver.

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THE JOYS OF YOUTH, THE MAGIC OF MUSIC, CAPTURED IN PHOTOGRAPHS. BY WAYNE MAIBAUM

“What would you think if I sang out of tune Would you stand up and walk out on me Lend me your ears and I’ll sing you a song And I’ll try not to sing out of key I get by with a little help from my friends...” “Saving up your money for a rainy day Giving all your clothes to charity Last night the wife said Oh boy, when you’re dead You don’t take nothing with you but your soul…”

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COURTESY OF MORRISON HOTEL GALLERY: BEATLES IN SURF BY CHARLES TRAINOR; BEATLES IN LIMO BY CURT GUNTHER

anniversary

Soundtrack of Our Lives

A recent exhibit at Soho’s Morrison Hotel Gallery, curated by Julian Lennon and showcasing some never-before-seen photographs of The Beatles, reminded me of why we still love them. For 50 years, The Beatles have been credited with social change, from setting fashion trends to spurring the fall of communism! But for most of us, their importance is more personal: simply put, their music makes us feel good, restoring the promises of youth and providing a universal connection that transcends age, race, religion, politics and all such superficial barriers. (Imagine!) Our basic human emotions— love, loss, longing, regret, remorse, elation—continue to resonate in each resounding melody. And mysteriously, the older we get, the more we seem to get it.


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at your service

MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-tomeasure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.

ALTERATIONS With six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.

For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.

CLOSET CONSULTATION

Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call and we’ll make it happen.

Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.

HOME/OFFICE VISITS

PERSONAL DELIVERY

Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries. We’re more than happy to come to your home or office. So give us a shout and we’re there…

Whether in metro Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins or Vail, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it… with a smile.

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS

Going above and beyond for customers is the heart and soul of Andrisen Morton’s culture. We believe great merchandise combined with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations.

GIFT CARDS

COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton giftwrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.


T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . A N D J E A N S


end page

My Father, Myself BY LENOR ROMANO My mother gave up shopping for me by the time I was five. She gave up shopping with me at seven. Was it because I was so skinny that I had to buy boys’ slim pants? Or that I embarrassed her, demanding the stars-and-stripes bell bottom jumpsuit that she considered blasphemous? Shopping for me became my father’s job. Yes! Very cool! The man had no patience, so I always got what I wanted just to get us out of the store. By age 11 I could no longer find what I dreamt of in the young junior department, so I took to designing my own clothes. Snakeskin mini skirts, faux pony midis, leopard fur vests... Fortunately I had an aunt who was a professional seamstress and could fulfill my desires. My dad maintained his role as my personal shopper for expensive things like boots and bags. (We’re talking Granny boots that tied up to the knee, green suede boots with fourinch platforms, a red vinyl raincoat, a leather hoodie...) He had great taste, priding himself on always looking “smart.” In the ’70s, he also had a friend at Botany 500 and was a perfect 40 regular—right off the rack. There were a few years when he gained weight in an attempt to quit smoking, but that was shortlived: he was more concerned about his wardrobe than his health. During college I had a summer job as a “swatch boy” at Cross Country Clothes. The man I worked for was more interested in skirts than suits. I fended him off politely until September, then told him off. I was just 18. I still managed to get my dad a few samples. Sadly, I recently had the distinction of helping my mother select my father’s final outfit. The suit was easy: there were lots to choose from, though he hadn’t worn one in a long

time. The tie was next. His drawer opened with a smell of wood and what I imagined was his Noxzema shaving cream. I knew his ties well: the Countess Mara ones he was so proud of, the rich madder silks. Then I saw his favorite, a deep barn red, but it had stains on it, rendering it unusable. (He was meticulous about his appearance; I wondered why he had kept it.) I dug deeper into his tie drawer, finding wide ties, skinny ties, knit ties... a lifetime of sartorial memories. I selected a paisley, rich in amber, ocher and plum. During his final years, I’d made it a point to tell him how much I loved him. I gave him a card with of all his favorite expressions typed across it in different colors and fonts. He studied it for awhile, and then exclaimed “This is all true!” I gently reminded him that these were his words, the words he taught me to live by. They’ve served me well.

“MY DAD WAS MORE CONCERNED ABOUT HIS WARDROBE THAN HIS HEALTH.”

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Lamborghini Denver

instinctive technology

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