Larrimor's

Larrimor’s FORUM/The Substance of Style/FW 2017/18

MAKE AN ENTRANCE

IN FALL’S BEST FASHIONS MADE TO MEASURE WHY YOU NEED IT

SMART DRESSING

FOR WORK AND WEEKENDS

Official menswear of the LA Galaxy Jelle Van Damme / Ariel Lassiter / Gyasi Zardes / Brian Rowe

#S amxGalaxy

Meet Linda Graswick

LARRIMOR’S NEW WOMEN’S DEPARTMENT MANAGER. BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE

if you’ve just run into someone you’ve known for years. There’s an ease and warmth about her that’s genuine—the result of decades spent nurturing customer relationships and friendships.

“My work has always been about creating relationships for life,” she says. “I love to know what interests people have, what they do professionally, socially and what they do for fun. Their clothing choices speak to all of those answers.”

Linda joined Larrimor’s in June 2017 and was instantly struck by how many customers were greeted by name when they walk through the door. She was also impressed by the longevity of the staff. “This is a family-owned business that’s been around for 78 years,” she reflects. “Clearly, they’ve created an experience of excellence. But my motto is that business is good, but it can always be better.

Whether we’re mentoring younger staff or teaching our seasoned pros some new tricks, we want our customers to leave here thinking, ‘wow.’”

Most recently, Linda managed the Personal Stylist department at Nordstrom in Ross Park Mall. She opened the store in 2008, giving many Pittsburghers their first exposure to the concept of a personal stylist. She believes that experience serves her well at Larrimor’s and she’s excited to bring her organizational and fashion sense into the mix.

“People don’t live fashion the way we do, so I’m always looking for ways to be of assistance and take away that worry of ‘what should I wear?’ or ‘how can I make the most of the clothes I already have?’”

A lifelong Pittsburgher who lives in Glenshaw with her husband Michael, Linda began her career as an assistant

buyer at Joseph Horne Co. in Pittsburgh, formerly on Penn Avenue. She’s worked non-stop in fashion, beauty and style coaching ever since and is thrilled to be back working downtown. “I feel like I’ve come full circle,” she laughs.

Linda hopes you’ll drop in and say hello. She would love to meet you.

Getting to know Linda

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On the weekends it’s… kick-back time. From spring through fall, we fire up the grill and the fire pit. In winter, it’s movie time.

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I’m never without… my lipstick. It brightens my face and makes me smile. And when I smile, others smile back!

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When I need to escape… my husband and I book a Regent Seven Seas cruise to favorite destinations like the British Isles, the Mediterranean or the Baltics.

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My current obsession is… Netflix’s House of Cards, the Outlander series on Starz and old movies, particularly on the big screen at the McCandless Crossing Cinema.

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At my house you can always expect… decorations from top to bottom for every season or holiday, great food (especially desserts) and my signature themed cocktails!

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O MEET LINDA GRASWICK for the first time is to feel as

fall 2017 fashion tips for her

Q:

ASK ishes with either diamonds or semi-precious inlays. Delicate and feminine, both are modern and timeless. The only challenge with these lines is that they appeal to all ages, so be ready to share with your daughter, or your mom!

How do you pack light for a quick, stylish winter getaway?

We look for versatile items that are lightweight and can be rolled to take up minimal space in a carry-on. Some of our favorites include travel jersey from Sympli, especially the new Cinch ponte-jersey legging, jacket and skirt.

When you arrive at your destination, pair your Cinch bottoms with one of our gorgeous new tops. Check out the full fall offering in our store or online; there are over 30 styles to choose from, many in multiple colors! Everything is mix and match, wash and wear, and can take you from day to night.

The perfect wear-anywhere dress comes from Chiara Boni, whose bonded jersey flatters the figure and won’t wrinkle. We also offer a pull-through stole in the same fabric: a great finishing touch. All this will easily fit in MZ Wallace’s Jim bag, which will hold everything you need for your getaway.

Finally, select outerwear that works at both your departure point and your destination. We love the reversibles from Diomi: the Chevron coat comes in luscious colors, featuring rain-resistant nylon on one side and warm, elegant fox fur on the other. Roll it, place it in the overhead bin (I will be using mine to power nap) then shake it out and slip it on when you arrive. Bon voyage!

Which brands at Larrimor’s have Q: something really special to offer her this season?

We carry many amazing designers— over 50, in fact—so choosing one is just too difficult! We love Brochu Walker

I’m not a fan of bright colors, Q: but I get tired of wearing black all winter long. Any suggestions?

and L’Agence. Both of these brands have designers who understand that women want feminine, yet wearable, clothes. The fits and fashions are cutting edge, resulting in perfect datenight tops, layered sweaters, and so much more!

Make sure to peruse our Kinross sweater shop, where you’ll find everything from modern classics to doublefaced knit outerwear. Look for cashmere jacquards, novelty stitching, cardigans, layering pieces, ponchos and yummy cashmere accessories. Other favorites include 360 Sweater and Skull, Lisa Todd Now and Autumn Cashmere.

We are also introducing two new jewelry collections: EF and Adina Reyter.

Both feature 14K gold in different fin-

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We’re glad you asked! Hazelnut, burgundy, navy and shades of gray from dove to charcoal are everywhere this season, replacing black as the new neutrals. The best part is that they all go together (and with the black and denim pieces you already own), so you can mix and match your wardrobe with ease. If you’re color shy, start small, maybe with an accessory or a knit top.

These hues can be found across all product categories, from blouses to sweaters to denim, even outerwear. The only rule we have is “wear what makes you feel good!”

Speaking of outerwear, our styles this season will be lighter in weight as well as in color. With average temps trending slightly warmer, we want to keep you covered without inducing a sweat.

We’ve got a multitude of shapes and lengths, including buttery leathers from Lamarque, sweater jackets from Rossopuro, Diomi’s weightless furs, and double-faced cashmere. If you’re ready to spread some joy on a cold winter day, look no further than new styles and colors from Canada Goose. And for our non-feather friends, we bring you Save the Duck, whose beautiful jewel tones will lift your winter spirits!

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fall 2017 fashion tips for him

We’d recommend one perfect deconstructed blue blazer (it doesn’t have to be navy; there are various new shades of blue) and one subtle plaid sport coat to pair with casual pants (or jeans) and sneakers. What makes a sport coat modern these days is fine performance fabrics, light canvas construction, interesting details and an attitude of nonchalance. There’s also an ineffable characteristic known as “expression,” which refers to the uncontrived way a tailored garment drapes and hits the body. Other things to note: modern fit is body-skimming but not tight, slightly shorter in the arm and body length but not extreme.

Come into the store and we’ll help you figure out which models are most flattering for you.

Although everyone seems Q: to be doing it, buying clothes online does not feel quite right to me. Am I crazy?

No, you’re not crazy: there’s nothing more satisfying than working in person with a professional style advisor who knows your taste, your body type and your budget, and can therefore help you look your best. But did you know that there are numerous ways you can use technology to enhance

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your in-store shopping experience?

You can pre-shop collections on our website to save time when you arrive in store. You can email, text or chat with your style advisor to ask questions or set up appointments, in store or at home. You can click through the many fabulous collections on our website and reserve items for in-store shopping.

Bottom line: digital support is not intended to circumvent your style advisor, but rather to enhance and improve your in-store shopping experience. Take advantage of it and look better than ever before.

Sneakers seem to be Q: everywhere, but I think they look ridiculous with suits and sport coats. So what should I wear on my feet?

Sorry to disagree, but we love sneakers worn with suits and sport coats, especially many of the newer styles that are clearly not meant for the gym! That said, there are numerous other non-sneaker options this fall, including chukka boots for an outdoorsy look, burnished leather laceups for a dressier look and classic loafers for something in between.

Another tip: choose neutral shades of brown, which pair perfectly with both navy and gray clothing (and are appropriate with everything but formalwear).

IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN

Q:

I don’t wear suits too often anymore but would like to buy a few cool sport coats for fall.

What specifically do you suggest?

FABRICS

COMMANDING PERFORMANCE Or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Suit (Again).

BY TOM MASTRONARDI

A

decade or so ago, “performance fabric” meant that an enterprising menswear manufacturer added stretch to enhance comfort, perhaps Teflon to boost stain resistance, or a quick chemical dip to protect against wrinkling. Flash forward to today.

The modern man lives a speed-of-light lifestyle, complicated by

climate change, confounded by cranky, cramped business travel. Yet his suits must carry him from day into evening with stylish aplomb. Fortunately, research and development has spurred impressive innovation in even the most traditional luxury fabrics, delivering elegant tailored clothing that performs like its casual brethren. But all that flex and fortitude can’t trump the single, immutable reality: Suits and tailored sportswear must still possess covetable curb appeal.

“Customers care first about the look of the fabric—

Smart fabrics transition from city to country with ease and style.

IMAGES COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN, ETON

performance is the ‘cherry on top,’” says Arnold Brant

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Silverstone, president and chief creative officer of Samuelsohn/Hickey

dim memory. Eton’s North American sales director, Chris Donohue,

Freeman, one of the earliest (and most successful) adopters of luxury

believes that quality is the key. “We employ more quality control people

performance tailoring.

than design team members,” he shares.

In 2011, Samuelsohn partnered with Loro Piana, one of Italy’s premier fabric mills, to introduce a proprietary fabric called Extreme, and more recently with Colombo to launch a revolutionary luxurious fabric called Ice Wool, which is

That rigor, in tandem with the company’s commitment to the exclusive

Luxury yarns use of extra-long staple cotton, informs its approach to innovation. ELS, are the key to Robert Talbott’s high-performing fabrics.

subjected to repeated thermic shock during the manufacturing process. This naturally seals the fibers, resulting in greater resilience, a far more supple texture and enhanced color clarity. Ice Wool helps maintain an optimal body microclimate and offers exceptional water and stain resistance, all while maintaining the luxurious feeling of super-fine 150s wool.

Ermenegildo Zegna offers its super-fine (and aptly named) “High Performance” fabric in a collection of suits and jackets, all of which are defined by high-twist yarns that render the cloth exceptionally resistant to creasing and create a satisfyingly springy-yet-soft hand and a remarkably lightweight character: notably

“Performance fabrics are more and more important in our

C

characterized by extra-fine and long fibers that result in durable yarns

collection, in both clothing and sportswear. We have

and elegant shirt fabrics, constitutes only 3% of the world’s cotton, yet

comfortable, packable and ideal for travel. anali, too, offers a mashup of luxury and innovation.

believed in the attributes of performance for some time,

accounts for 100% of the fabric used by Eton. The brand also employs a

and it is even more relevant today,” explains Giorgio Canali, director of

“textile genius” who joined the in-house team three years ago from the

Americas. The Canali collection features a pure cashmere field jacket,

venerable fabric mill Gruppo Albini. Although the company does not tout

distinguished by a “wave” effect achieved through the synthesis of two

“no iron,” Donohue is justifiably proud of the proprietary process that

traditional techniques. The first is “carding,” where the cloth is brushed

“changed the molecular structure to create a smoother, flatter, more

using natural thistles, creating the visual “wave.” Then, hot metal

wrinkle-free surface of cloth.”

cylinders are used to press the cloth, and finally the fabric is submerged

Mark Calder, creative director at Robert Talbott, believes in natural

in a hot fixing bath, which sets the pattern. The undulating result is

performance enabled not by technical synthetic yarns, but instead

visually compelling, with a hand reminiscent of fine sable fur.

through weave and construction. “For us, the only way to exceptional

The ascendance of performance tailoring has not gone unnoticed by

fabric is a commitment to luxury yarns. Our luxe fabrics continue to be

purveyors of some of the world’s finest fabrics. Dougal Munro, president

based upon Sea Island and Egyptian cottons, silk, super-fine merino wool,

of Holland & Sherry, which has supplied tailors and luxury brands with

cashmere and linen; we are grounded in that sensibility.”

cloth since 1836, notes that the firm hasn’t hesitated to enter into this

And in a global culture where “green” is not just the color of money, all

game: “We offer a range of fine cottons with 2% Elastane, which results in

the companies we spoke to assert that the objective is to leave an

8% to 10% of physical stretch for an elevated level of comfort. Beyond that,

invisible ecological footprint in their wake. It’s an ethos probably

our AquArret wool is water repellent and offers superior stain protection

summarized best by Eton: “For us, high quality equals sustainability... the

through a process that employs micro encapsulated nano-particles rather

first step to a more sustainable clothing industry is to promote durable

than Teflon; it remains viable for about eight cleanings.”

and timeless products.”

Dress shirts may have been the Founding Fathers of the performance

We’ll leave the last word to Silverstone, who rather adroitly sums up

fabric movement, offering wash-and-wear or no-iron options as far back

the prevailing sentiment: “If you can do luxury, and have it perform, what

as the 1950s, but the days of stiff polyester and toxic formaldehyde are a

could be better?”

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PROFILE

Marco Baldassari

A FRESH TAKE

Eleventy is shaking things up in the fashion world! BY K A RE N A L B E RG G ROSSM A N

T

here are beautiful clothes and then there are clothes that are beyond beautiful. Eleventy founder Marco Baldassari does not view fashion in a vacuum. Instead, he sees fine Italian clothing as an intrinsic reflection of history, culture, art, music, nature and contemporary lifestyle. It’s no wonder, therefore, that a recent Eleventy photo shoot took place in the same marble caves from which Michelangelo took inspiration centuries back. “The color of the marble blended perfectly with our collection,” Baldassari explains. Eleventy fashion is modern but timeless, sophisticated but totally uncontrived.

Partnering with the best luxury merchants in the US (which, after only three seasons in business, already generates about 25 percent of total company volume), Baldassari and Eleventy’s North American sales director Geoff Schneiderman have been hitting the road across the country to determine what American customers are looking for in luxury

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fashion. What they learned: both men and women seem to want modern classics crafted in the finest fabrics, and a unique blend of comfort and cool. Other buzzwords: soft to the touch, light in weight (“office buildings in the States are overly heated!”) and impressive price/value ratios. (Yes, their prices will surely surprise you...)

A key must-have item for fall/winter ’17: the “Laser Blazer,” a totally deconstructed, trim-fit knit jersey sport coat with patch pockets, available in navy and gray. “It feels more like a sweater than a sport coat,” Schneiderman explains. “I wear it all the time because it’s amazingly comfortable but also stylish.” Comfort and style are key factors in how Eleventy’s various components work together. Expect to pair elegant sport coats with fine cashmere hoodies and joggers—surprisingly sophisticated in Donegal tweed!

It’s self-expression meets sophistication meets street, a uniquely winning combination in Italian luxury fashion, and one that is sure to impact how Americans dress.

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PROFILE

American alligator

the leather

EXPERTS In addition to gorgeous belts and wallets, Torino Leather celebrates guys, golf and gumbo!

BY L E S L E Y R U BE N S T E I N

I

f you observe a well-dressed gentleman in a boardroom, at a special gathering, or on the golf course, chances are he’s wearing a Torino Leather belt. Known for its versatility, durability, quality and style, Torino’s leather goods are handmade in a factory located along the Mississippi River in New Orleans. The exterior of the warehouse is deceptively quiet; inside, the building hums with the sounds of artisans expertly cutting, sewing and burnishing fine leathers and exotic skins from around the world into highly coveted belts, wallets and jewelry.

“Our belts are about handcrafted quality. We make sure they are enduring style-wise, fashion-wise and longevity-wise,” affirms Tom Garner, Torino’s owner and managing director. “We also pride ourselves on being an efficient company with an emphasis on customer service.”

Each belt is handmade by a group of artisans who’ve been with the company for many years. Each leather item is worked on by all craftsmen, representing decades of experience, expertise and commitment. It takes years to train someone to work one part of the process, and even longer to train a worker on each of the stations. An interdependent group that can work in numerous stations, most artisans tend to focus on one or two areas. “They are a dedicated, talented, hardworking group. We even have six members from one family who we’ve worked with for 15 years,” Garner boasts.

Like many families, the Torino crew has faced challenges together, most notably rebounding after Hurricane Katrina. The original Torino Belts factory, located in New Orleans East, was under water for six weeks. The city was evacuated, and employees eventually returned to find their homes damaged and belongings lost. Torino Belts closed, but Garner and three other longtime employees moved forward to open Torino Leather in January 2006.

“Every day we experienced disappointments. For a while it was just the four of us working here; eventually everyone returned.

Tenacity is what helped us to come back,” Garner explains with much pride. Due to this employee loyalty, Torino was rebuilt on a foundation of artisan experience. “Making belts is a labor-intensive process: the skins and leathers are extremely expensive, so mistakes are costly,” Garner explains. “This interconnected group depends on each other to create every product to perfection.”

Torino Leather uses the highest-quality Italian calf, Italian woven cotton, and exotic skins such as American bison, South African ostrich, South American caiman, hornback crocodile and American alligator. Each skin is inspected and approved before the belt making begins. Pieces are hand-cut with precision. Each belt has three layers, so the artisan must determine which materials to use in the middle and bottom layers to make the belt soft, pliable, or firm, depending on the skin. Belts are hand-stitched, belt loops are handsewn and buckles are selected and sewn in by hand. Artisans tasked with skiving the exotic skins do so expertly to ensure seamless sides.

Even the belt holes are handpainted to perfectly match the color of the leather after it’s been burnished. Garner considers the burnishing of the leather to be one of the most important processes as it brings out the grain, often giving the skin a distressed look. Each piece is unique because the burnishing is done by hand.

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“Holmes is the only person in our company who hand-burnishes the leather, so everyone in the country who wears one of our antiqued leather belts is wearing a belt by Holmes. Pretty amazing thought,” Garner points out. To ensure quality, each belt’s measurements are verified, stitches trimmed, and belts carefully packed and shipped to

“Our belts are about handcrafted quality.

We make sure the belts are enduring style-wise, fashion-wise and longevity-wise,” affirms Tom Garner. stores across the country. Torino takes much pride in its customer service and ability to meet requests in a timely manner.

“Everyone should wear belts,” declares Garner. “A great belt makes the outfit, whether it’s for special occasions, business, resort, or denim. Each of our belts is made in numerous colors, sizes, widths and with different buckles, so there are thousands of choices for customers who want a custom look.” hile Torino Leather is known for its color choices, it’s been mainly through PGA tournaments that their reds, oranges, yellows and greens have made their way onto golf courses. For the last 13 years, Torino has supplied the Zurich Classic of New Orleans with handmade, specialized gifts of custom belts for the players. Each golfer chooses his design and color, meaning Torino ends up making close to 300 belts with only a three-day turnaround. “The Tour Pros go crazy for these belts! Many wear buckles from their sponsors and want a quality strap to go with it. For those guys, we make custom straps; for others, we make the whole custom belt,” explains Garner.

Like most customers, golfers also appreciate Torino’s wallets and jewelry. As pants have gone to flat-fronts and tapered looks, customers have turned to thinner wallets. Torino’s wallets are made of the same rich, exotic leathers as their belts, and some linings can be customized in coordinating colors to celebrate a favorite college or professional sports team. Leather bracelets with magnetic clasps and interesting closures are also popular.

While Garner is best known for his leather goods expertise and passion for golf, he’s also famous for his gumbo; he’s been known to serve 50 to 60 pounds of it at a time to friends, family and customers.

It’s a special family recipe that he keeps a closely guarded secret... but if you play your cards right, he might share his jambalaya recipe!

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Clockwise from top: Glazed South American caiman, Ringmark lizard, Quilled South African ostrich Suedes

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MADE TO MEASURE

Let the world know how much you value yourself. BY B RI A N SCOTT LIP TON

HAVE IT YOUR WAY

Customize fit, fabrics, buttons and linings to your taste.

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SHUTERSTOCK

T

hat once-famous slogan now seems as applicable to men’s clothing as it does to the Whopper. Specifically, we’re talking about an increased interest in made-tomeasure clothing. Whether it’s picking fabrics, buttons, lining or lapels, more men than ever are taking the time to create a suit that expresses their individual style.

Reasons for the growth in this business include more affordable price points than in the past (often only about 20 percent higher than off-therack) and increased visibility of made-to-measure suits on athletes and celebrities, whether they’re walking a red carpet, being interviewed after a game or appearing on a talk show.

The primary raison d’etre for made to measure remains fit. MTM suits usually require taking anywhere from 15 to 40 measurements, a huge advantage for men whose physique may include droopy, mismatched shoulders, large midsections, muscular thighs, or extra-long legs. Most off-the-rack suits, no matter how well made and how much stretch is incorporated into the fabric, are less than forgiving to those without perfectly proportioned bodies, especially since many manufacturers (specifically Italian brands) are creating fits more suited to slim European bodies than to hefty, or even average, American ones.

Today’s MTM customer is anyone from a high-school kid approaching prom to a college grad starting out in the business world to a successful investment banker—indeed, any guy who wants his wardrobe to make a lasting impression. Still, made-to-measure remains a particular favorite of men who work in more creative industries and who view made-to-measure suits as “an opportunity to dream out loud,” as one expert put it. In fact, Millennials, who have shown a desire for so-called “investment dressing,” are among those showing a fondness for made-to-measure clothing.

Bottom line: made-to-measure suits appeal to those who want to be excited about what they purchase—and remain excited when they look in their closet later. A good made-to-measure suit can last for years, and can be dressed up or down. Above all else, a made-to-measure suit is a statement of confidence, proving that you know best what complements your style, your body type and your unique personality.

Try it and be uniquely you!

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UP DO WN DRESSING

DRESSING

WHETHER YOU’RE HEADED OUT FOR A BIG NIGHT ON THE TOWN OR SOMETHING A BIT MORE CASUAL, A LITTLE DRAMA GOES A LONG WAY TOWARD MAKING YOUR LOOK — AND THE EVENING — UNFORGETTABLE.

PHOTOGRAPHER SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR | MAKEUP BERNADINE BIBIANO WARDROBE WENDY MCNETT

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

BOGLIOLI

MAKE the WORLD YOUR STAGE

ISAIA

PETER MILLAR

LOSE YOURSELF in Fabulous Fall Textures

M A U R I Z I O B A L DA S S A R I

LUCIANO BARBERA

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Be BOLD Be FEARLESS Be DASHING

Build your wardrobe on a foundation of neutral classics, adding a few fresh pieces each season. Modern styling will keep you looking cool and current year after year.

FA L L I CONS P H O T O G R A P H E R Shane LaVancher F A S H I O N D I R E C T O R Michael Fusco P R O D U C E R Jillian LaRochelle S T Y L I N G A S S I S T A N T Leah Snow G R O O M E R Jojo McCarthy M O D E L Joe Weir for Wilhelmina

1 ELEVENTY COAT, FAHERTY SHIRT, RHONE JOGGER, LANVIN SNEAKER

THE JOGGER

This pant is the newest must-have in every man’s wardrobe: sleek, comfy and wearable in more ways than one. Elevate your look with a rich camel coat and luxe suede sneakers.

THE WOOL PANT

Neutral-color patterns are surprisingly versatile and so much more exciting than basic black. Wear with a texture on top to stand out from the crowd.

HARRIS WHARF COAT, FAHERTY SWEATER AND THERMAL, PT01 TROUSER, TO BOOT NEW YORK BOOT

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THE OVERCOAT

CREDIT INFO ISAIA COAT, ETON SHIRT, ELEVENTY PANT

For your next outerwear investment, pick a print, then make it pop against lightcolored solids. A three-quarter length works over your suits and sport coats, yet it doesn’t look silly with denim (like your long black dress coat does).

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THE SNAPFRONT SHIRT

ELEVENTY

Long considered a casual cold-weather staple, why not try this quilted piece between your shirt and sport coat? It’s an extra layer of warmth, and style.

ELEVENTY SPORT COAT, VEST AND BRACELETS, FAHERTY THERMAL, PT01 TROUSER, TO BOOT NEW YORK BOOT

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THE BOOT In a broken-in, burnished leather, this style can be dressed up or down. Cuff your pants to show them off, or better yet: put your feet up and relax awhile.

WHEELS Moke America is the new fashion must-have! BY DAVI D A . ROSE

driving

NOSTALGIA

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hat do Brigitte Bardot, Paul McCartney, The Beach Boys and Princess Margaret have in common? They all loved a small utility vehicle called the Mini Moke. In fact, in the ’60s and ’70s, numerous celebrities could be spotted driving these iconic cars around the French Riviera and other resort areas worldwide. James Bond even drove Mini Mokes in You Only Live Twice, Live and Let Die, The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker. (Of course, his other car was usually an Aston Martin, a Lotus or a Jaguar.)

After a few decades out of production, the legendary Mokes are back, now offered with electric engines and power steering. The new Moke looks identical to the original, but with its modern updates, options and safety features, it’s the perfect modern-day beach buggy (available with automatic or manual transmission).

Todd Rome, president and founder of private jet firm Blue Star Jets, has acquired the rights to produce Mokes for the USA and has already seen excellent sales. “As I travel abroad, I see the Moke in St. Tropez, St. Barth’s, Monte Carlo and throughout the Caribbean,” says Rome. “I’ve always loved these cars and rent them whenever I can. But for me, the

best part of this project is creating an American-built vehicle: we’re assembling in North Carolina and most of the parts are made in the USA.” Because the Moke is classified as an electric low-speed vehicle (LSV) with speeds up to 35 MPH, it’s not allowed on highways, but it’s perfect for driving around town or through the many gated communities popping up around the world. Says Rome, “For people who love these cool cars, it’s about the history, the memories of film and rock stars cruising the Riviera. Mini Mokes became famous as low-maintenance, fun cars to drive, especially in warm weather climates. And with the color schemes we now offer, the Moke is also a bit of a fashion statement.”

Above: Paul McCartney and Brigitte Bardot enjoy cruising in their Mokes.

Insets: The newest iterations of the Moke look like the originals but use today’s tech.

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Handcrafted in Chicago Since 1916

WINE

futures

TENSE

Welcome to the world of Bordeaux wine futures.

BY RO BE RT H AY N ES - P ET ERSO N

D

iving into any investment market—art, cars, Air Jordans—can be intimidating to a newcomer. Such is the case with Bordeaux wine futures, where participants buy into a vintage from a specific winery while it’s still aging in barrels, years before they can drink it.

“There’s a perception that it’s only associated with four-digit wines and that you need to go big, investing a significant amount of money,” says Mary Gorman-McAdams, master of wine and North America market adviser for Bordeaux wines. “The reality is you can buy futures at all levels, particularly with vintages after 2014.”

Though the concept of “wine futures” (or en-primeurs) began in Bordeaux some 200 years ago, securing the best wines of the region for negotiants (middle-man merchants), the modern version only became available to private collectors in the 1980s as a means of securing up-front cash for the region’s growers and vintners. “It made economic sense,” says Gorman-McAdams, “before the top wines were priced like they are now. Today it’s kind of a speculation sport.” The reality is, just as with art, there are many reasons to buy into a barrel of wine. But it’s important to know what you’re doing and why. Here are a few hints and tips from the experts: FIND A REPUTABLE MERCHANT: “In the past,” says Hortense Bernard, general manager of Millesima, USA, a French-owned, NYC-based wine merchant and one of the five largest buyers of Bordeaux Futures, “disreputable companies would sell wine they didn’t actually have, then use that money to buy wines for other clients.” (Think Ponzi scheme.) She recommends seeking out a company that has been successfully working with futures for many years and can satisfactorily answer any questions.

DO YOUR RESEARCH: “Regardless of what price point you’re dabbling in,” says Gorman-McAdams, “read about the wines, get a feel for the vintage, find what’s written about the previous vintage and the producers.”

KNOW WHAT YOU WANT: Perhaps you seek a piece of the hard-to-get Château Margaux first growth at a bargain for investment (prices for futures are almost always less than once the wine is bottled), but perhaps you just really like French wine. “In Europe, especially, I see more and more everyday wine selling on the futures market,” says Bernard.

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“I will have customers buy the same brand each year, just because they like it.” Gorman-McAdams agrees: “Looking back at inexpensive wines from 2010, I think, ‘Why didn’t I buy a case or two of that?’” Others buy into vintages that mark anniversaries or other celebrations.

LEARN THE CALENDAR: Part of what makes the Bordeaux futures game both fun and challenging is the time-sensitive nature of each release. Excitement builds in the fall, when that year’s harvest enters the barrels, but it’s spring when the fun begins, with En-Primeurs Week bringing thousands of wine professionals and journalists to Bordeaux to try the latest vintage and report their impressions. By mid-July, the prices have been set.

VINTAGE IS KEY: Each year’s sale reflects the previous year’s harvest, and Bordeaux is a region especially susceptible to weather extremes.

But there’s another reason to know whether 2017 was a good year or bad: “I will tell some customers during a really good vintage to go with secondary labels, because the wines will be a really good investment,” says Bernard. “When it’s a smaller vintage, you’re better going with first growth wines.”

IT’S OKAY TO NERD OUT: “When people come to us, one thing that’s very important to them is provenance, that the wines are in their original cases,” says Bernard. It’s akin to collectors of action figures wanting their possessions “mint-in-box.”

TOP AND CENTER IMAGES COURTESY OF MILLESIMA USA, BOTTOM IMAGE COURTESY OF BORDEAUX WINE COUNCIL

The reality is, just as with art, there are many reasons to buy into a barrel of wine. But it’s important to know what you’re doing and why.

T H E S H I R T M A K E R S I N C E 19 2 8

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FALL WINTER 17

END PAGE

GET SMART

Smart Casual is a notch above Business Casual: an uncontrived, pulled-together look for a day in the office or night on the town.

A sales executive friend of mine confessed that he hasn’t worn a suit in years because he conducts most of his business over the phone or email. We can lament or rejoice over technology’s impact. But from a fashion perspective, an unintended casualty of its rapid rise is the demise of office attire. Clearly, many men have traded in suits and ties for the somewhat-too-casual, downgraded and downright sloppy look of jeans and T-shirts or khakis and polos.

What’s next, Snuggies? Well, not quite. When confident self-styled men play it smart by dressing for work in Smart Casual, it pays off in spades.

So, exactly what is the Smart Casual aesthetic? It’s looking neat, relaxed and pulled together without necessarily “matching.” It’s about investing in versatile sportswear pieces made from quality fabrics, and learning how to pair them. Actually, when you buy the right items in the right neutral shades, there’s not much to learn: you can create multiple looks by effortlessly layering shirts, sweaters, vests and outerwear with wool trousers, five-pocket pants or clean denim. Adding the right accessories (handsome cashmere scarf, patterned pocket square, distinctive watch, cool eyewear, burnished leather belt) will take it up a notch without looking contrived.

Italians believe in la bella figura: putting careful thought into the image you present to the world, through one’s clothing, one’s attitude, one’s ability to make the ordinary extraordinary. With so many great options for Smart Casual this fall, attaining the extraordinary is easier than you think. — BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

SMART TIPS FOR SMART GUYS

jacket with khakis or jeans; slim suit trousers work with a knit cardigan or vest. Then, when you want to get down to brass tacks, wear the pieces together as a suit. (Advice: dry-clean both the jacket and pant at the same time, even if one doesn’t need it, so they age in unison.)

T I E G A M E : Try a not-so-shiny knit, wool/silk or cashmere tie to make a casual-but-still “I mean business” impression. Pair a tie with a sport shirt rather than a dress shirt: a slightly lower knot is perfectly appropriate here and not stuffy.

N E U T R A L T E R R I T O R Y: Fall’s neutral colors include gray, brown, black, navy and shades of olive and burgundy; stick to the neutrals in key pieces and add contrast with accessories.

This way your tops (woven or knit) will always work with your bottoms. Winning combinations: navy and gray, navy and tan, or brown and gray.

S O L E M A N : Get off on the right foot wearing this season’s updated cool sneakers, casual leathers and soft suedes .

PAT T E R N R E C O G N I T I O N : Yes, solids are simpler to match, but sometimes it pays to stand out. (Advice: Consider a new soft plaid sport coat that plays well with dark-wash jeans.)

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ELEVENTY

S U I T C A S E : Invest in suit separates and wear them in different ways. Pair that classic suit

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