Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012
A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER
WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS
WELCOME TO THE FALL 2012 ISSUE OF OAK HALL FORUM MAGAZINE
ere at Oak Hall and at our “vineyard vines by Oak Hall” stores in Memphis and Nashville, we’ve been preparing for the transition from summer to fall and winter for over a year, in ways not just limited to fashions. This planning includes a new addition to the Oak Hall family—a “vineyard vines by Oak Hall” store in Birmingham, Alabama now open at The Summit. We hope our efforts will turn your shopping this season into an enjoyable adventure worthy of multiple visits to all four stores to see what’s new in the coming months. Within this issue you’ll find articles on people, fashion trends and lifestyles that we thought you’d find of interest, as well as our Must-Haves feature that highlights the selections our buying team has made with your input in mind. No business could flourish for 153 years as Oak Hall has without embracing the latest technology. We have accomplished this with our updated website, an active presence on Facebook, and communicating via email to thousands of our customers, like you, to inform you of in-store events, trunk shows and special offers throughout the year. Your loyalty, support and friendship over the years drive us to try to exceed your expectations every time you walk through our doors. We thank you and look forward to seeing you many times in the coming months at one, two, three, or all four of our stores.
With best wishes always, Will, Bill and Bob Levy and your friends at Oak Hall
Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape
OAK HALL 6150 Poplar Avenue Memphis TN 38119 901-761-3580 oakhall.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Giving Back: Shelby Farms Park
52 Designers: Scott James 58 Designers: Very Vivek
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Oak Hall Must-Haves
62 Fit: The Evolution of the Suit 67 Why Choose Custom? 72 The Merits of Made to Measure 74 A Change of Seasons
DEPARTMENTS 54 Ask Forum for Him 56 Ask Forum for Her 80 Travel: Five Adventures 84 Décor: If Walls Could Talk 88 End Page: Enough Already
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
SPOTLIGHT ON SHELBY FARMS PARK A COMMUNITY TREASURE IN THE HEART OF MEMPHIS. BY JENNIFER ANDREWS Shelby Farms Park lies in the heart of Shelby County in Memphis, Tennessee —4,500 acres of green space, a community treasure unrivaled in size and potential anywhere else in the United States. After years of threats from commercial developers and disputes over land use, the park is now protected by a conservation easement, managed by the nonprofit Shelby Farms Park Conservancy, and perfectly positioned to achieve its
potential as the next great 21stcentury park. The park’s bold and visionary Master Plan is a roadmap to greatness, not just for Shelby Farms Park but for our entire community. With several exciting demonstration projects funded, open and garnering national attention, the Master Plan is putting Memphis on the map in a whole new way. The park’s picturesque landscape today is shaped by its past as
a working farm. With forests, rolling hills, pastures, berms, lakes and ponds, the park has a unique pastoral character. The park is bordered on the west and south by the Wolf River and is part of the northern half of the Wolf River valley. Upland areas offer impressive views of the land and river to the south. The eastern half of the uplands includes lakes and connecting canals. Shelby Farms Park’s size and
central location allow for a diversity of uses. With more than one million visits a year, the park is a popular destination for locals, but is also a regional draw and a tourist attraction. A 20 minute drive makes the park accessible to roughly one million local residents, and new pedestrian connections like the Shelby Farms Greenline, Wolf River Pedestrian Bridge and Wolf River Greenway have dramatically increased accessibility to the park without needing a vehicle. New draws like the groundbreaking Woodland Discovery Playground are rapidly increasing the frequency of visits. Reflecting its role as a regional park, few places boast more diversity, with regard to race, income level and age. Shelby Farms Park Conservancy continuously works hard to raise more than $2 million per year to keep Shelby Farms Park and Shelby Farms Greenline clean, green and safe for the community. Itâ€™s a big job, but a worthwhile one! These incredible assets can only reach their potential with the help of members, donors and supporters. Park members enjoy VIP treatment at the Conservancyâ€™s events and programs, plus discounts and deals at local businesses. Supporting Shelby Farms Park is easy. You can become a member, have a tree planted as a gift or in honor of a loved one, or make a tax-deductible donation: visit shelbyfarmspark.org or call (901) 767-7275.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEAN BLOEMER
On her: Jason Wu capsleeve ruched dress, Alexis Bittar earrings On him: Canali sportcoat, Edward Armah pocket circle and tie, Hiltl trousers
Oak Hall MUST-HAVES FOR FALL 2012
PLAYING THE PART Isaia sportcoat, dress shirt, trousers and tie, Edward Armah pocket circle, Torino belt
UPTOWN MEETS DOWNTOWN Karolina Zmarlak A-line coat and leather pants, Becca Belz tassel earrings, Celestina multi-shell box clutch
WATCH YOUR BACK Lela Rose embroidered dress, Dannijo earrings
KEEP IT SIMPLE Canali sportcoat, Eton dress shirt, Edward Armah pocket circle and tie
TYING IT TOGETHER Isaia sportcoat, dress shirt, trousers and tie, Torino belt, Costa Del Mar sunglasses
GO WITH THE FLOW Lida Baday jersey gown with sequin detail, Kenneth Jay Lane chandelier earrings and cuff
THE RIGHT STRIPES Canali striped suit, Eton dress shirt, Edward Armah pocket circle, Stefano Ricci tie
THE PEPLUM Robert Rodriguez peplum top and leather skirt, Kenneth Jay Lane earrings and cuff
SUIT YOURSELF Z Zegna suit, Eton dress shirt, Zegna tie, Edward Armah pocket circle
IRON LADY Max Mara cashmere coat with oversize collar, Dannijo necklace and earrings, Tom Ford â€œJenniferâ€? sunglasses
THE PARTY FROCK Alice + Olivia “Zigzag” dress, Fenton Fallon earrings, Spanx
Eton sport shirt, Scott James sportcoat, Hiltl flannel trousers
SOFT TOUCH Rufus sport shirt, Kroon sportcoat, Edward Armah pocket circle
THE MATRIX Haute Hippie suede shearling vest, Cut 25 jersey top, J Brand waxed denim, Kenneth Jay Lane cuff
DARKER HEART Rebecca Taylor printed dress, Karolina Zmarlak stretch belt, Becca Belz earrings, Dannijo cuff, Spanx tights
TOMBOY Rag & Bone blouse and pants, Fenton Fallon earrings and wrap bracelet, Kenneth Jay Lane pyramid cuff
THE GREAT OUTDOORS On him: Scott James sport shirt and puffer vest, Grown & Sewn sport pants On her: Vince fur vest, J Brand jeans, Fenton Fallon necklace, Linea Pelle wrap bracelet, Nada Sawaya stingray cuff, DebraJill hoop earrings
BLENDING IN On her: J Brand ready-to-wear shearling jacket, Alexis Bittar hoop earrings On him: Agave sport shirt and quarter-zip sweater, J Brand jeans
SUEDE SPIRIT Rufus sport shirt, Agave suede jacket and moleskin pant, Torino belt, Frye boots
LAYERS UPON LAYERS Billy Reid sport shirt, quarterzip sweater and sportcoat
STRIKE A CORD AG 5-pocket cords
CALL OF THE WILD J Brand ready-to-wear fur sweatshirt, silk blouse and leather leggings, Linea Pelle wrap bracelet, Dannijo cuff
CRAZY FOR CORDS True Grit corduroy sport shirts
COLOR ME HAPPY J Brand twill pants
HOT ON YOUR HEELS Frye boots for men
WILDBERRY Foley + Corinna “Jetsetter” bag
COZY ON UP True Grit fleece pullover
SUBTLE DETAILS Grown & Sewn cords
COAT CHECK Kroon corduroy and moleskin sportcoats, Johnston scarves
THE BOMBER Peter Millar sport shirt and quarter-zip sweater, Kinross jacket, Hiltl corduroy trousers
ALL-AMERICAN MAN Bills Khakis twill pant and sport shirt
CHECK HIM OUT Southern Tide sport shirts
MAD PLAIDS Scott Barber sport shirts
CHECKMATE 1859 wrinkle-free sport shirts, $89.50
ALL TIED UP Edward Armah ties
CABIN FEVER Johnston blankets, Frye boots
There are few
HOW TO UPDATE YOUR LOOK. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
menswear collections that are, at the same time, affordable, wearable and cool. Scott James, a twoyear-old undertaking by designer Scott Kuhlman, is one of those few! “I developed the brand in 2009 to reflect a more European aesthetic, but at better prices,” confides Kuhlman, a seasoned designer who lives half the year with his wife and two daughters (18 and 15) in a small town in Tuscany, but also sources his fabrics out of Eastern Europe, where he has trained artisans in quality craftsmanship. “Over the past few years, the Italians have nailed that casual sophisticated look. I Americanized it a bit, and made it affordable.” How to get this coveted casual look? “The key is the jacket,” asserts Kuhlman. “You can’t use the top part of a suit; it’s too constructed and dressy to wear with jeans or chinos. It would be like pulling a boat with a Porsche: you just wouldn’t do it, even if you could… The jacket needs to be unstructured or lightly constructed in a lightweight natural fabric, maybe a cotton ottoman or baby cord or cotton/wool with stretch. It should skim the body, without too much shoulder.” Once the jacket is decided upon, add a few great
“More men are dressing well: it’s no longer a badge of honor to say ‘I don’t care about clothes.’” —Scott Kuhlman
shirts (“not slick, tailored dress shirts that are perfectly pressed; we steam in a way that leaves them slightly disheveled”), soft non-denim five-pocket pants (in twill or flannel, either ankle length or rolled at the bottom) and perhaps a fine gauge sweater (cardigan or V-neck) in merino or lightweight cashmere. As for shoes, Kuhlman touts wingtips (“perfect with shortened pants”), driving shoes or ‘crossover’ shoes with rubber soles. Voila: a foolproof wardrobe! Another key to the collection is Kuhlman’s sophisticated use of color, surely inspired by Tuscan sunsets. Kuhlman grew up in Ogallala, Nebraska (the end of the Texas Trail) and started in the clothing business when he was just 12 or 13, working for his 7th grade science teacher who’d bought a local clothing store. Ultimately, he became a buyer for a few major stores, then switched to wholesale, working for big name designers. “I got to know all the fabric houses and all the factories; I asked a million questions and learned.” Scott James menswear is available at the finest stores in the country. Shirts average $125, trousers $150 and jackets in the $400 range—a small price to look like a million bucks.
LUCCA, TUSCANY BRYANT PARK, NEW YORK
FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
styles represent a new genre of sportcoat that blurs the boundary between sportswear and tailored clothing. They can be dressed up with a tie or worn casually with jeans: comfort, class and cool, all in one item!
My expensive topcoat is looking dated. Should I have it altered?
This season’s pant styles are narrower than they used to be: not tight but definitely more fitted (and no longer down to the floor). For fall 2012, we love five-pocket pants in cottons, wools and wool blends. When it comes to jeans, fit is all-important. If your closet is full of droopy denim, let us show you how great you can look in jeans that actually fit.
If I buy only one item this season, what should it be?
We love refined soft sportcoats in wool blends and cashmeres (both solids and subtle patterns) as well as the quintessential knit blazer. These
With global warming, do I really need sweaters?
Although chunky sweaters are very much in style, light and medium weights are also trending, and these have little to do with the weather. A modern or retroinspired cardigan, either button or zip-front, can often replace a jacket or sportcoat. Today’s trimmeddown, fine gauge knits also work well underneath sportcoats since they breathe comfortably—good news for guys who tend to run hot. Cashmeres, merinos and new blends in great colors mean lots of strong sweater options this season.
What footwear do I need for fall?
The wrong pair of shoes can instantly ruin an outfit, so don’t forget to consider your footwear as carefully as your clothes. One must-have for fall 2012 is a pair of slightly chunky oxfords in suede or burnished leather, to add a bit of character. Think updated wingtips that are substantial enough to wear with jeans and can also lend an English sensibility to a suit. In addition, there are tons of great boot options, from rugged contemporary styles to beautiful polished dress versions, that add instant personality to your look.
I haven’t lost weight but my pants seem baggy. What’s up with that?
Probably not. There’s only so much you can change with alterations, and yesterday’s long billowy coats (topcoats and trenches) are totally OUT in 2012. So give them away to someone in need and buy a new shorter, trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. From knee-length on up is the modern way to wear outerwear this season.
125 years of American-made fine tailored clothing
ASKFORUM FASHION TIPS FOR HER
We are constantly tweaking our contemporary mix, as fashions change quickly, but we always want your clothes to offer versatility. At Oak Hall, we look for modern knits, sweaters and shirts that can be worn with your favorite jeans or leggings. Some of our picks for fall 2012 include Vince’s supersoft sweaters in a variety of shapes, Joie’s versatile blouses, and Isda’s easy knit cardigans and effortless dresses. Newly added designer Kimberly Ovitz also provides a fresh take, using technical fabrics in separates that offer both elegance and functionality. In your own wardrobe, try combining contemporary and designer pieces for a look that’s eclectic and fun.
How can I get more mileage out of my outerwear?
For winter days in Memphis—or wherever your travels may take you—layering is important. Luckily, this season brings many jacket options that are lightweight, shaped and feminine, and can be worn over chunkier sweaters on especially chilly days. When you’re not sure what the weather has in store, try a coat from Barbour, whose equestrian-inspired
designs are at home in town or country. Also, fur continues to be chic and sporty in textured vests, and J Brand’s new ready-to-wear division offers sleek outerwear pieces that work for women of any age. If you’re looking for that one investment piece that will instantly update your wardrobe, make sure it’s a shearling jacket!
What are you most excited about this season?
Do we have to pick just one thing? Sorry, but it’s too difficult! We’ve added tons of new women’s product for fall: check out some of the best in our MustHaves feature starting on page 9. It’s sure to whet your appetite! We also have more events slated than ever before. Our fall 2012 trunk show lineup includes a “Meet the Designer” event featuring Be Inthavong silk and leather woven bags, as well as trunk shows for the collections of Karolina Zmarlak, Jason Wu, St. John and Layafayette 148. Make sure to let us know (via phone, email, or during your next visit) what you’re looking for, so we can keep you posted about special in-store events and call you when new fashions from your favorite designers arrive. RACHEL ROY
What’s new in contemporary fashion?
“I try not to use big factories. Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”
AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one
was doing it right! “Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?) Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?” His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component. For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the
evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…” Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895. “We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me risk-taking is the only way to move forward.” Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.” “Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants. When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”
SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.
Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).
Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.
A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!
Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three. Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the
wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!
Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five
years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).
THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts
are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.
You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!
Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600
GUSTAVO KUERTEN Lacoste Ambassador
We've been making fine shirts in the town of Ashland, Pennsylvania for 80 years. We know how to do this. Of course we aren't perfect, but the shirts are wonderful, and loved by those who own and wear them, across several generations. Visit Oak Hall for an excellent selection of Gitman Shirts, or inquire about having them custom made for you.
(made in usa)
SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY
CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.
The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.
The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.
Individual style and comfort. Unsurpassed fit. Today, more and more men are choosing custom.
A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!
CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT... If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.
“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell
CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric
/ -$'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$)'0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.
Or, if youâ€™re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model
Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:
Ä•ĹżĹż' / Ĺż*-ĹżĂ´Ĺż/ÄŚ!-*)/ÄšĹż Ä•ĹżĹż0ĂŻĹżĹż*-Ĺż)*Ĺż0ĂŻĹżÄš Ä•ĹżĹż )"/#Ä‘Ĺż# - Ĺż/*Ĺż- &Äš Ä•ĹżĹż "Ĺż*+ )$)"Ä‘Ĺż*2Ĺż.'$(Ĺż*-Ĺż2$ Äš
From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.
Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!
Ä•ĹżĹż * 'Ä‘Ĺż-$/$*)'Ĺż*-ĹżĹż new slimmer silhouette? Ä•ĹżĹż$)"' ÄŚ- ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż*0' ÄŚ breasted Ä•ĹżĹż0//*)Ĺż./) Ä‘ĹżĂ˝Ĺż*-ĹżĂžÄšĹż*2Ĺż#$"#Äš Ä•ĹżĹż + '.Ä‘Ĺż*2Ĺż2$ ÄšĹż*/# Äš Ä•ĹżĹż*& /Ĺż./4' Ä•ĹżĹż )/Ĺż./4' Ä•ĹżĹż & /Ĺż' )"/# Ä•ĹżĹż' 1 Ä‘Ĺż )"/#ÄšĹż*-&$)"Ĺż0//*).Äš
Down the front or at your wrists? Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.
CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric
Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well. Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ'4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ /$'.ďſ1 ſ some fun!
Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar
Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.
common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.
While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.
Custom takes forever.
Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,
'$)Ĺż+*& /Ä?Ĺż0//*)Ĺż+*& /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?
An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.
the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!
A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!
*/Ĺż/Ĺż''Ä?Ĺż) Ĺż)Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ĹżĂ˝Ĺż/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?
Custom is costprohibitive. With the
rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!
By William Kissel
The Merits of
MADE TO MEA
_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast. Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend? Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender? It’s yours simply for the asking. Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the
process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’” A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later
_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”
Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.
A CHANGE OF
PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING
SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT
A CHANGE OF
Texture. Drawn from nature
itself, fallâ€™s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...
A CHANGE OF
Layers. Thereâ€™s no more
stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!
5iVE TO CROSS OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST
Conquer your fears—and see the world—one exotic locale at a time.
Losing yourself in wanderlust
is plenty safe when you’re at home or in the office. But instead of remaining far away in thought, why not hit the rugged terrain, challenging your senses with exotic sights and sensations? Your ‘bucket list,’ things to see and do before you die, should include a few experiences that push the limits of your comfort zone. Via charter boat and petite plane, my own first to-do was an island-hopping jaunt through the Caribbean’s Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, where I pushed myself beyond caution and politeness to carpe diem. On the sleepy, rustic-chic island of Canoan, I cruised the Tobago Cays aboard Captain Yanni’s catamaran. At the unprotected, bio-diverse Salt Whistle Bay, I proposed an excursion beyond the requisite snorkel, which allowed me to channel my inner hunter and learn to catch, kill and eat my own prey. Underwater, I spotted sea urchins, white jellyfish, trumpet fish and stingrays. I did the dirty work, catching a few urchins and (squeamishly) plunging a butter knife into their porcupine-like shells to crack the critters open. I scooped out the sweet, yellow, yolk-like meat, added lemon, and swallowed the suckers raw. Once I discovered my inner swashbuckler, I was inspired to keep conquering my fears. Of course, my bucket list adventures may not be for everyone, but I’ve found that juxtaposing luxury accommodations and personal challenges can elevate any vacation experience. Start planning your own expeditions, and consider tackling these tasks: they range from curiously challenging to seriously scary. You might just end up with a collection of trips of a lifetime.
LIVE AND LET GO
OVERCOME YOUR FEAR OF HEIGHTS while satisfying a curiosity for soaring through the sky (without having to jump from a plane). Nestled within a quiet expanse of verdant olive groves in the heart of Provence is Opio en Provence, a ClubMed resort. Here, I chose the flying trapeze as my pursuit du jour. Fifty feet above the grassy grounds, I clung tightly to the wooden trapeze bar. Though I was securely harnessed with a safety net positioned below, the height was hard to ignore. After the initial panic, I let go of my anxieties and allowed my body to drop down off the plank. I embraced the rush of adrenaline and the cool, French breeze as I attempted to swing my legs over the bar in a rather ungraceful effort at circus acrobatics. Fortunately, they let me take another swing at it. 80
“WHERE’S THE NORMAL FOOD?” is a frustration often overheard while
PUSH YOUR PALATE
traveling. But sampling the local fare is a culinary journey in itself. In Singapore, street eats are tasty and hygienic, thanks to the city-state’s obsessive insistence on cleanliness. I experienced the organized chaos in the acclaimed hawker markets—multiplexes packed to the brim with highly praised food stalls—where I devoured coconut-curried laksa, prawn noodles, and a red bean and herbal jelly iced kacang dessert. Then, pushing beyond my culinary comfort, I ordered the oft-illegal (because it’s offensively stinky) durian fruit in its slightly milder ice cream form. The taste: oddly sweet, and then…somehow…not. ’s water towers
enter the home.
STAND TALL WITH CONFIDENCE
TAKE IT TO THE TOP
Walking on water is a divine experience.
There’s a stretch of calm Caribbean coast outside the Cotton House Resort, on the private island of Mustique, that’s perfect for stand-up paddleboarding. I cast off from the shore on my surfboard, made my way beyond the initial crashing waves to calmer seas, and paused to get my bearings. Centered on my board, I braced myself and adjusted to the sensation of moving water beneath me as I rose to my feet. Still wobbly, I stood up tall and carefully dipped my oar into the glittery blue. I took one stroke, then another. Though it was physically challenging, I truly found my zen as I skimmed gently over the rippling waves.
DRAMATIC, remote pockets of the world are usually unreachable by foot, let alone four-wheel drive. But they are accessible by twin-engine Bell 212 helicopter. I spent three days in British Columbia’s Bugaboos (the birthplace of heli-skiing) guided by Canadian Mountain Holidays. Traversing snow-dusted ridges, facing awe-inspiring spires, and overlooking blue-hued glaciers and glassy lagoons left me feeling humbled—and exercised my core. At the Bugaboo Lodge, a nine-minute flight from Radium Hot Springs, we stumbled upon fresh bear tracks and magnificent photo ops. Mornings brought misty snow, while sunny afternoons were warm enough to de-layer and bask in lush, flowery pastures.
LOOK FEAR IN THE EYE
where between Geyser and Dyer islands on South Africa’s Western Cape, I sure didn’t feel like the top of the food chain. On Marine Dynamics’ 12meter cabin cruiser, I joined a dozen fearless/fearful others for a shark cage dive. Our cavalier captain and his crew of experts chummed the waters before we entered, five at a time, into a metal-barred cage dipped just below the surface in water roughly 30 feet deep. I submerged...and prayed. Suddenly, dorsal fins sliced through the water and four graceful Great Whites appeared. The inquisitive predators circled the boat before nudging the foreign object that had invaded their turf. It left me thankful to be the caged one, safely and willingly trapped inside.
Coming face to face with a Great White shark, in a channel some-
IF WALLS COULD TALK Who doesn’t love a good story? When the Coney Island boardwalk was repaired with concrete and plastic, the South American wood was “rescued” and restored, and the new owner of this iconic material now has quite a tale to tell. A hot trend in home design, reclaimed wood is available in varieties ranging from 600-year-old bog or swamp oak to remnants of historic buildings. Accent walls, flooring, benches, tables, decking—its applications are limited only by one’s imagination. Antique redwood, originally railroaded across the country and recently rescued from now-defunct New York City water towers, is particularly desirable because redwood is no longer harvested. Constructed by barrel makers in the 1800s, these towers were used
to store and deliver water to the top floors of New York skyscrapers. Strong yet light and water-resistant, this wood can be creatively optimized by highlighting the patterns made over time by water. Combining the interior, water-stained wood with exterior wood that was exposed to rain, wind and local natural elements takes the time-worn look up a notch. And owning a piece of the New York skyline is priceless. Gus Retsinas, a wood flooring specialist at Manhattan Forest Products, insists that the days of tossing scrap materials are gone. “Green is in. When a building is demolished, someone wants the bricks, someone else the wood.” Their New York Showroom features a walk-in closet with reclaimed wood flooring, finished with natural oils to bring out its intrinsic color and beauty. (The treatment
RECLAIMED WOOD TELLS ITS OWN TALE. BY LENORE RICH
Each time-worn board has its own character, thanks in part to its original geographic location. Oak from New England isn’t identical to oak from Michigan.” When building their Santa Fe home, the Alexanders used reclaimed wood extensively. Ceiling beams were constructed from trees that died naturally and had intrinsic rustic character. Some flooring was purchased from an upstate New York mill that cut the wood before the tree was downed. By so doing, the width of the planks measures in at an exceptional 24 inches; there are also fewer seams and an undeniable originality. Old barn wood appealed to them because it had been hand chiseled. Yet another wood they selected was milled
CONVERSATION STARTER Reclaimed wood has its own unique color and character.
BRICK WALL Wooden “bricks” fashioned from Coney Island’s famous boardwalk, pictured on previous page.
EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN Wood from New York City’s water towers can be a part of your home.
“OWNING A PIECE OF THE NEW YORK SKYLINE IS PRICELESS.”
in 1882, their building was destroyed in a 2010 fire. The owners could not rebuild, much of the wood was reclaimed, and so the story lives on. “People are knowledgeable and discerning,” says Retsinas. “Many seek out a specific source or finish.
and three inches thick, providing a unique look as well as superb soundproofing. Is leather your preference? Ecodomo’s line of reclaimed (recycled) leather comes from tanneries that produce for BMW, Coach and the like. Made from at least 70% pre-consumer recycled material, it’s shredded and bound with natural latex and bark. Versatile and economical, it can be used anywhere wood veneer is applied. Remodeling your entertainment area? Why not opt for wood flooring from a famed brewery, a chandelier crafted from antique wine barrels and a recycled BMW sofa? It’s all about the look…and the story!
MANHATTAN FOREST PRODUCTS
does for wood what hand cream does for dry skin.) Many customers, including well-known celebrities, seek this material out for “the look” as well as “the story.” Prices range from roughly $11 to $40 per square foot. Another popular source for wood as conversation piece: the stock of reclaimed wood from the Marsellus Casket Company, famed for fine wood caskets used by notables like John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline Onassis, Richard Nixon and Mickey Mantle. Established
FALL 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.速
Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.
WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”
TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection
On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear? You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know. As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz writes. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.” Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear. This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index. (And who doesn’t want to be happier?) So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best. “Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!
CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
OA K H A L L F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 2