GARYS

GARYS Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012

A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER

WHY CUSTOM?

WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS

REMEMBERING DICK BRAEGER It is with mixed emotions that we invite you, our friends and customers, to shop our fabulous fall 2012 men’s fashions. For on February 24, 2012, we lost GARYS’ owner and beloved leader, Richard A. Braeger, after battling a long illness. Dick, as he was known to his friends, was a loving husband, father and grandfather as well as a brilliant merchant and wonderful friend.

Dick was a leader in the footwear and clothing retail industries: first as co-founder of Cole Haan Footwear, then as founder of GARYS. He was a savvy businessman who introduced many new styles and trends to the market. In an article in MR magazine in July 2010, Dick was asked about his proudest accomplishments, which he listed as “taking Cole-Who? to Cole Haan… and then selling it to Nike. And of course, having my children take over the family business.”

A warm, kind and generous man armed with a terrific sense of humor, Dick put anyone who met him at ease. Chris Schulz, publisher of Newport Beach Magazine, may have put it best in his March 2012 editorial noting Dick’s passing: “…Newport Beach lost one of its most creative and colorful lights… Quick with a smile, and a creative genius, Dick Braeger will be missed but not forgotten.”

We would like to express our gratitude for the love and support that has poured into GARYS following Dick’s passing. The GARYS family is reminded each day what a wonderful man he was to work for.

Please enjoy this issue of GARYS Forum magazine with our compliments; we hope it provides some inspiration on how to live your life á la Dick Braeger, with much passion and in your own unique style!

— The GARYS Family

GARYS 2

GARYS Fashion Island, Newport Beach 949-759-1622 Del Mar Plaza, Del Mar 858-794-0740 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORS

FEATURES 2 24 48 52

Welcome Letter Giving Back: Working Wardrobes Collections: Auction Awe Décor: If Walls Could Talk

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi

PRESIDENT AND CEO

FASHION 10 14 16 18 20 26 27 32 34

Designers: Scott James Designers: Sebastian-Style Designers: Very Vivek Profile: The Allure of Hugo Boss Profile: Hawaiian Dream Fit: The Evolution of the Suit Why Choose Custom?

The Merits of Made to Measure A Change of Seasons

DEPARTMENTS 8 42 46 50 54 59 60

Ask Forum World Scene Man of Style: High Notes Speed: A Knight for All Reasons Travel: Five Adventures At Your Service End Page: Enough Already

Britton Jones

CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-6864412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

ASKFORUM

FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

styles represent a new genre of sportcoat that blurs the boundary between sportswear and tailored clothing.

They can be dressed up with a tie or worn casually with jeans: comfort, class and cool, all in one item!

Q:

My expensive topcoat is looking dated. Should I have it altered?

This season’s pant styles are narrower than they used to be: not tight but definitely more fitted (and no longer down to the floor). For fall 2012, we love five-pocket pants in cottons, wools and wool blends. When it comes to jeans, fit is all-important. If your closet is full of droopy denim, let us show you how great you can look in jeans that actually fit.

Q:

If I buy only one item this season, what should it be?

We love refined soft sportcoats in wool blends and cashmeres (both solids and subtle patterns) as well as the quintessential knit blazer. These

Q:

With global warming, do I really need sweaters?

Although chunky sweaters are very much in style, light and medium weights are also trending, and these have little to do with the weather. A modern or retroinspired cardigan, either button or zip-front, can often replace a jacket or sportcoat. Today’s trimmeddown, fine gauge knits also work well underneath sportcoats since they breathe comfortably—good news for guys who tend to run hot.

Cashmeres, merinos and new blends in great colors mean lots of strong sweater options this season.

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Q:

What footwear do I need for fall?

The wrong pair of shoes can instantly ruin an outfit, so don’t forget to consider your footwear as carefully as your clothes. One must-have for fall 2012 is a pair of slightly chunky oxfords in suede or burnished leather, to add a bit of character. Think updated wingtips that are substantial enough to wear with jeans and can also lend an English sensibility to a suit. In addition, there are tons of great boot options, from rugged contemporary styles to beautiful polished dress versions, that add instant personality to your look.

CANALI

Q:

I haven’t lost weight but my pants seem baggy.

What’s up with that?

Probably not. There’s only so much you can change with alterations, and yesterday’s long billowy coats (topcoats and trenches) are totally OUT in 2012. So give them away to someone in need and buy a new shorter, trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. From knee-length on up is the modern way to wear outerwear this season.

Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape

designers

scott james:

CASUAL COOL

There are few

HOW TO UPDATE YOUR LOOK.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

menswear collections that are, at the same time, affordable, wearable and cool. Scott James, a twoyear-old undertaking by designer Scott Kuhlman, is one of those few!

“I developed the brand in 2009 to reflect a more European aesthetic, but at better prices,” confides Kuhlman, a seasoned designer who lives half the year with his wife and two daughters (18 and 15) in a small town in Tuscany, but also sources his fabrics out of Eastern Europe, where he has trained artisans in quality craftsmanship. “Over the past few years, the Italians have nailed that casual sophisticated look. I Americanized it a bit, and made it affordable.”

How to get this coveted casual look? “The key is the jacket,” asserts Kuhlman. “You can’t use the top part of a suit; it’s too constructed and dressy to wear with jeans or chinos. It would be like pulling a boat with a Porsche: you just wouldn’t do it, even if you could…

The jacket needs to be unstructured or lightly constructed in a lightweight natural fabric, maybe a cotton ottoman or baby cord or cotton/wool with stretch.

It should skim the body, without too much shoulder.”

Once the jacket is decided upon, add a few great

“More men are dressing well: it’s no longer a badge of honor to say ‘I don’t care about clothes.’”

—Scott Kuhlman

shirts (“not slick, tailored dress shirts that are perfectly pressed; we steam in a way that leaves them slightly disheveled”), soft non-denim five-pocket pants (in twill or flannel, either ankle length or rolled at the bottom) and perhaps a fine gauge sweater (cardigan or V-neck) in merino or lightweight cashmere.

As for shoes, Kuhlman touts wingtips (“perfect with shortened pants”), driving shoes or ‘crossover’ shoes with rubber soles. Voila: a foolproof wardrobe!

Another key to the collection is Kuhlman’s sophisticated use of color, surely inspired by Tuscan sunsets.

Kuhlman grew up in Ogallala, Nebraska (the end of the Texas Trail) and started in the clothing business when he was just 12 or 13, working for his 7th grade science teacher who’d bought a local clothing store. Ultimately, he became a buyer for a few major stores, then switched to wholesale, working for big name designers. “I got to know all the fabric houses and all the factories; I asked a million questions and learned.”

Scott James menswear is available at the finest stores in the country. Shirts average $125, trousers $150 and jackets in the $400 range—a small price to look like a million bucks.

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CREATING GREAT TROUSERS AND JEANS. IT’S AN ART.

IT’S NOT JUST A NIGHT AT THE MOVIES. IT’S AN EXPERIENCE. At Island Cinema, watching a movie has become more than a night out, it’s a luxury experience. Imagine sitting back in an oversized comfy seat, sipping a glass of fine wine or imported beer, enjoying delicious artisan snacks all while watching the latest feature film with high def 3D surround sound.

You’ll be so spoiled, you’ll never want to watch a movie any other way.

www.ShopFashionIsland.com/movies For select showtimes at Island Cinema you must be 21 or older to enter the auditorium.

Check for 21+ next to the showtime – proper ID required. ©The Irvine Company LLC, 2012. All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island is a registered trademark of the Irvine Company.

designers

Sebastian Dollinger

ETON’S DESIGNER BRINGS A FRESH YOUNG TAKE TO LUXURY SHIRTINGS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

tantly took a job in the Eton stockroom, then gradually worked his way up. “I took the long road at Eton, determined to prove myself without favoritism.

(Editor’s note: Since his dad has a different last name, few people were aware of the relationship.) I went from the stockroom to a London-based position to a sales job, where I increased volume in my Swedish accounts by 800 percent. At that point, I felt vindicated and was excited to move to a design job.”

Explaining the success of Eton, Dollinger sums it up simply: “We don’t take shortcuts; we spend on quality. We use the best French and Italian mills for our fabrics. We’ve developed a special finishing process that takes four-and-a-half weeks extra but adds luster and life to the shirts.”

Other success secrets: a sophisticated use of color, pattern and detailing so the shirts are interesting but not over-the-top. “Balance is important,” says Dollinger, who also paints. “There’s a way to combine elements so it’s not screaming or in your face.”

SEBASTIAN-STYLE ith DeVotchKa blasting in the background, it was hard to hear Sebastian Dollinger, conducting this interview from the studio in Sweden where he designs the world-renowned Eton shirt collection. “Yes, I design to music; it’s a big part of my life,” he confides. “I’m a DJ and a drummer when I’m not designing shirts…”

He came to designing Eton shirts in a roundabout way: since his father, Jan Borghardt, has worked for the company since 1981, it was the last thing he’d planned to do. “My dad is from Holland; he met my mom on a sailing trip to Sweden, fell in love and needed a job. He started in the Eton stockroom and is now number two at the company. I was born in ’83. I was a wild kid who got kicked out of school and took various jobs pumping gas and waiting tables. But when I ultimately took a stockroom job, I made sure it was the cleanest stockroom in the universe. My dad taught me to take pride in my work, whatever it is…”

After serving in the army for a year, Dollinger reluc-

“Don’t wear one brand from head to toe.

Be your own brand: it’s more fun that way!” says Dollinger.

Finally, there’s the fit factor: Eton shirts come in three different fits so that they feel custom-made.

“Eton isn’t just another global brand with extensive marketing; it’s quality in every way. Plus we’re one of very few companies to specialize in shirts.”

When he’s not designing, Dollinger is out and about. “My body clock is reversed: I work late and come alive even later. I never watch TV; I’m out doing things. In addition to music (these days he’s listening to Joy Division, Demolition, The Black Keys, Muddy Waters) and design, I love writing (poetry, song lyrics), and also cosmology. I was always that strange little boy who studied the stars every night…”

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“WE KNOW IT’S NOT HOW MANY CARS WE SELL BUT HOW MANY CUSTOMERS KEEP COMING BACK.” -- FLETCHER JONES, JR.

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designers

VERY VIVEK!

“I try not to use big factories.

Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”

AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one

was doing it right!

“Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?)

Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?”

His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component.

For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the

evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…”

Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895.

“We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me risk-taking is the only way to move forward.”

Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.”

“Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants.

When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”

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profile

The Allure of

HUGO BOSS ACCORDING TO SVP OF SALES CHUCK LUCIA, IT’S ALL ABOUT CONSISTENCY AND EVOLVING THE TRENDS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

and a focus on accessories.

If a man buys only three items this fall, what should they be?

1) A dark, dressy threepiece suit; 2) a three-quarter length wool/cashmere topcoat in an interesting color or pattern; and 3) a pair of shearling-lined laceup boots that can be worn with both casual and tailored outfits.

To what do you attribute Hugo Boss’ huge international success?

We have a distinct, clearly defined aesthetic (modern and sophisticated) and a consistent brand identity across the globe, whether in Rio, New York, or Shanghai.

Who is your target demographic?

Has the collection become too cool for the older gentleman?

Fashion is not about age: it’s about expressing yourself. Our core customer ranges in age from 25 to 45; however, men of all ages appreciate the way Hugo Boss makes them look and feel. You are never too old to dress with a modern, sophisticated expression. The broad range of fits Hugo Boss offers makes our brand accessible to a large audience.

What are the most important items and trends for fall/winter 2012?

Hugo Boss has always been modern and elegant. If we were to chase trends, we would become irrelevant, so we don’t chase trends—we set and evolve them.

That said, there are several important directions for fall 2012: sophisticated tailoring, luxury fabrications

What should most American men do differently to be better dressed?

American men should be more confident in the way they dress. Confidence is the key to style!

To gain this confidence and look their best, men need only understand a few basic concepts. First, wear clothes that fit well and are age-appropriate. Next, when in doubt, dress up! If you are underdressed no one will take you seriously. I don’t believe you can ever be over-dressed. Last and most significant: A man’s most important asset is his smile! Men need to smile more often...which they will surely do when dressed with confidence.

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From top: A look from the Boss Black fashion show in Beijing; Ryan Phillippe in Hugo Boss; CEO ClausDietrich Lahrs with Tilda Swinton

profile

Authentic prints and design will always be hallmark elements of classic sportswear.

HAWAIIAN DREAM FOR CASUAL FRIDAY AND BEYOND. Reyn Spooner’s heritage of West Coast American cool reaches back to the late 1940s on California’s Catalina Island,

where Reyn McCullough opened his first traditional men’s haberdashery. Captivated by Hawaiian culture, he opened his first Hawaiian store near Waikiki and soon teamed up with seamstress Ruth Spooner, well known on the islands for her custom surf trunks. Thus, Reyn Spooner was born.

The brand first began making waves in the 1960s, when they were known as “the Brooks Brothers of the Pacific,” pioneering a casual yet professional incarnation of the Hawaiian shirt. By combining traditional Ivy League style with innovations like the washed down

reverse-print concept, Reyn Spooner reinvented aloha wear for Hawaii and the rest of the world. The brand’s new take on the printed, button-down collar shirt made it acceptable in the Hawaii workplace and in the process, invented the concept of Casual Friday.

Reyn Spooner recently introduced its premium and updated Modern collection, designed to appeal to the young and fashion conscious consumer. Offering a fitted body and taking inspiration and fabrication from the company’s expansive archive of prints and authentic Hawaiian culture, this collection has been remarkably well received, proving again that authentic prints and design will always be hallmark elements of classic sportswear.

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Reyn Spooner co-founder Reyn McCullough

GARYS ISLAND SHOP-IN-SHOP FEATURING Reyn Spooner, Nat Nast, Tommy Bahama, Tori Richard, Kahala, Bills Khakis, Thomas Dean, True Grit, Red Jacket, OluKai, Sperry, Maui Jim and more!

GARYS FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH 949.759.1622 garysonline.com

giving back

DOES YOUR CLOSET LOOK LIKE THIS? IF SO, WE CAN HELP. DONATE YOUR CLEAN, GENTLY USED PROFESSIONAL OR BUSINESS CASUAL CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES TO WORKING WARDROBES AT ANY GARYS LOCATION.

GARYS

Working Wardrobes is a non-profit organization that serves men, women and teens who are emerging from a life crisis and are committed to re-entering the workforce. They also specialize in helping our veterans in transition get back to work.

We accept men’s and women’s clothing, footwear and accessories, including handbags, and we ask that all clothes are dropped off on hangers. To learn more or to coordinate a donation, please contact us at (949.759.1622 or garysonline.com). We will assist you in getting your donation delivered and make sure that you receive a receipt from GARYS and Working Wardrobes confirming your tax-deductible contribution. You may also visit workingwardrobes.org for additional information regarding volunteer and sponsorship opportunities, special events and more.

We are proud to support this worthy cause, and we hope you’ll join us in giving back to our community.

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fit

SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.

Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).

Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.

A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!

Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three.

Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the

wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!

Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five

years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).

THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts

are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.

You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!

Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated!

Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.

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SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY

Why choose

CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.

Quite simply...

The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.

The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.

Individual style and comfort.

Unsurpassed fit.

Today, more and more men are choosing custom.

A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit.

Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years.

Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!

CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT...

If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.

“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell

CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric

/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.

Or, if you’re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model

Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize.

Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:

PANT

ĕſſ ' / ſ*-ſôſ /Č!-*)/Ěſ ĕſſ 0ïſſ*-ſ)*ſ 0ïſĚ ĕſſ )"/#đſ # - ſ/*ſ - &Ě ĕſſ "ſ*+ )$)"đſ *2ſ.'$(ſ*-ſ2$ Ě

lining

From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.

Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!

buttons JACKET

ĕſſ * 'Ä‘Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? ĕſſ $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted ĕſſ 0//*)Ĺż./ ) đſýſ*-ſÞĚſ *2Ĺż#$"#Äš ĕſſ + '.Ä‘Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ Ěſ */ # Äš ĕſſ * & /Ĺż./4' ĕſſ )/Ĺż./4' ĕſſ & /Ĺż' )"/# ĕſſ ' 1 Ä‘Ĺż )"/#Ěſ *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Äš

Down the front or at your wrists?

Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.

CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric

Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well.

Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!

Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar

Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.

common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.

While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.

Custom takes forever.

cuffs

Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,

pockets

' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?

buttons

An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.

monogram

the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!

A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours.

Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!

*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ſýſ/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?

Custom is costprohibitive. With the

rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!

By William Kissel

The Merits of

MADE TO MEA

_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck.

Not so fast.

Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend?

Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender?

It’s yours simply for the asking.

Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the

process and drastically lower the cost.

Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’”

A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later

_____________________________________ 32

SURE

_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”

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Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.

A CHANGE OF

SEASONS

PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Texture.

Drawn from nature

itself, fall’s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Layers.

There’s no more

stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Warmth!

Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And don’t forget a cozy scarf or two...

world scene DISCOVERING PERU

N

ear the Andes Mountains and Cuzco, the site of the Inca Empire’s capital, Peru is probably on your destination wish list.

For travelers who, after spending their days exploring this intriguing region, want to relax in sumptuous surroundings, there’s Palacio Nazarenas. Orient-Express, in collaboration with Peru’s National Institute of Culture, has restored this former 16th-century convent, carefully preserving the property’s heritage while elevating the accommodations to luxury standards. Located in an exclusive enclave in downtown Cuzco, Palacio Nazarenas has personal butlers, and Chef Virgilio Martinez presents specialty dishes featuring indigenous herbs and decorated with edible flowers. For the adventurous guest who needs to unwind after a day of sightseeing or climbing the Andes, there’s the Hypnôze Spa, which uses Peruvian ingredients such as pink Andean salt, flowers and herbs in tailor-made body treatments.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

AFTER HOURS

MATTHEW BUCKLEY

A

s a child, Gary R. Sullivan began collecting antiques, particularly clocks. Today, Sullivan’s an expert on the subject: he’s seen regularly on Antiques Roadshow, lectures on early-American clocks, and contributes often to books and scholarly research. Clock aficionados can drop into his shop in Sharon, Massachusetts and discover an impressive collection of American antique furniture from the Queen Anne through Classical periods, as well as many remarkable clocks. There’s one with a rocking ship movement, another boasting fruit and fern detail.

Sullivan’s crowning clock is perhaps the mahogany Wood & Taylor star-inlaid case clock, which stands at over eight feet tall. This flamboyantly decorated clock has a patriotic star motif and exotic contrasting mirror inlays. A nice way to watch time pass.

42

GETTING INTO CLUBS

S

weet Wood Luxury Golf links you up with handmade golf clubs that combine rare woods and contemporary technology. The head of the Centurion putter is fashioned from a single block of 100-year-old Koa wood, polished by hand for over 20 hours to bring out its natural, tiger-like striping. When a Scarlet Oak planted in 1890 by 23rd U.S. President Benjamin Harrison fell on the White House lawn a few years ago, Sweet Wood created commemorative putters using two blocks of exotic Madagascar Ebony along with one block of the historic Scarlet Oak. Golfers who want made-to-order clubs can choose from over 20 exotic woods with a hand-carved sightline and personalized gold or silver scripted faceplate.

FANCY FOOD FROM THE FOREST

I

n New York’s Hudson River Valley, Crown Maple Farms sits on 800 acres of rich soil where 25,000 century-old sugar and red maples flourish, producing a superior sap for maple sugaring. The farm’s “syrup sommelier” oversees separation of the syrups, and this autumn (in time for National Maple Syrup Day on December 17) the Grade A Dark Amber has such a rich flavor it’s risen to the dizzying heights of haute gourmet. Many of the top chefs in the country, including six of the seven 3-star Michelin restaurants in New York City, have chosen Dark Amber as a marinade or culinary ingredient, even using it to make ice cream. Of course, you don’t have to be a great cook—Crown Maple Farms’ syrups drizzle perfectly over pancakes, too.

CUSTOM CRUISING

F

rom November 15, 2012 through February 27, 2013, Amanresorts will launch a series of extraordinary fiveand seven-night voyages through Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most exceptional marine areas, on their custom-built 105-foot Amanikan coastal cruiser. Ampat encompasses nearly 25,000 square miles in the northeast seas of the Indonesian Archipelago. Scuba divers can view over 1,300 species of fish, 603 species of hard coral, 57 species of mantis shrimp and 15 mammal species. Above water, the islands are home to rare orchids, sea eagles, tree kangaroos and birds of paradise. The very chic Amanikan offers just three luxury cabins with king-sized beds and ensuite bathrooms (suitable for three couples or a single family) and the crew of 10 includes a dive instructor and private chef (naturally).

44

man of style

“My style model is Fred Astaire,” Feinstein reveals.

HIGH NOTES n the front hall of Michael Feinstein’s New York townhouse hangs an extraordinary 9x11-foot tapestry, covered with Al Hirschfeld caricatures of theater legends. I had just spotted Streisand when a black and white cat I later learned was named Alexander interrupted me. He brushed against my leg, looked me over, and after a thoughtful gaze disappeared upstairs.

A few moments later Feinstein came down the stairs (had Alexander given his approval?) wearing jeans, dress shirt and blazer, and led me into the living room.

Art is everywhere: oil paintings, antiques, a Picasso vase on a pedestal. There’s a grand piano, comfortable furniture, and views of an attractive garden through bay windows. The 25-room house, actually two townhouses knocked together, boasts a gym, two kitchens, two guest rooms, a master suite and nine fireplaces.

Born in Columbus, Ohio, Feinstein moved to Los Angeles in the ’70s. Oscar Levant’s widow introduced him to Ira Gershwin, with whom he worked for several

years. Michael met a lot of famous people, became a close friend of Gershwin’s next-door neighbor, Rosemary Clooney, and played for Frank Sinatra, who became a significant link to the music he loved. When Feinstein opened at the Mondrian Hotel in Los Angeles in 1986, Liza Minnelli gave him a party that most of Hollywood royalty attended: Gregory Peck, Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Collins and Henry Mancini, among others. “The publicity from that party launched me professionally,” Feinstein confides.

The consummate singer of American classics, Feinstein’s soft romantic voice slips effortlessly around a melody with the insouciance of a Cole Porter lyric, projecting every nuance. He’s performed at the White House, Carnegie Hall, the Hollywood Bowl and Buckingham Palace. He’s been nominated for five Grammys, and is a music historian and archivist (the Library of Congress appointed him to its National Recording Preservation Board). He’s also artistic director of The Center for the Performing Arts in

46

RANDEE ST. NICHOLAS

MICHAEL FEINSTEIN BRIDGES THE GAP BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT.

ZACH DOBSON

A MORE MODERN STYLE HELPS MODERNIZE THE WHOLE SHOW.

Carmel, Indiana and owns a cabaret in New York.

On stage, Feinstein conjures up an oft-nostalgic aura of glamour and elegance, evoking memories of chic late-night supper clubs from a more stylish era.

But far from buried in the past, he’s a contemporary performer who integrates fresh insight and modern imagery into his shows. His wardrobe helps bridge the gap between past and present.

For performances, Feinstein wears a tuxedo; at first he wore the same style every night, but soon added variety. “I realized that my songs are traditional, so I decided to use clothing to update my image on stage.

A more modern style actually helps modernize the whole show.” He added tuxedos from designers Nolan Miller and Jil Sander to his repertoire, and had others custom made by famed Los Angeles tailor Cipriano.

Feinstein is always searching for dress suits with “a little pop, but not Liberace.” His single must-have is a design tip he picked up from Victor Borge: a reversed flap on the fly. That way, Feinstein explains, the audience won’t notice if he slides onto a piano bench with his fly unzipped. (Twice.)

“For everyday life, I usually wear a blazer and loose tie.

When I go out, I’m often recognized, so I want to look nice.” On formal occasions, he chooses from among the hundred suits he owns from Tom Ford, Gucci, Versace,

Dolce & Gabbana, D-Squared, Armani and Halston.

Feinstein’s diverse interests call for an extensive wardrobe. These days, along with 200 performances a year, he’s also in the wine business, currently creating Michael Feinstein Select, a cabernet from Iron Horse Vineyards. Other recent ventures: The Sinatra Project 2, a collection of classic songs in the Sinatra style that the Chairman of the Board never recorded; the third season of Michael Feinstein’s American Songbook on PBS; 13 hour-long radio shows on NPR; and a movie score for an as yet untitled Steven Spielberg project.

His new book, The Gershwin in Me, will be released this October. Each of the 12 chapters spotlights a single song, exploring when and why it was written. The book comes with a CD of the songs newly recorded by Feinstein and 12 reproductions of Gershwin-related ephemera. And, as usual, during the holiday season, he’ll be performing at Feinstein’s at the Loews Regency Hotel in New York.

When it’s time to go, we continue talking as Michael walks me to the front door. “Sometimes,” he says, “when I think about my career, I realize how lucky I am… But it’s really the music that’s important.”

His goal is simple: “I want to keep American music alive.”

Alexander reappears to see me out.

47

GOODING & CO.

collections

A 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa Prototype sold in 2011 for $16,400,000.

Pablo Picasso’s Nude, Green Leaves and Bust sold in 2010 for $106,482,500.

CHRISTIE’S

CHRISTIE’S

IT’S AMAZING WHAT MONEY CAN BUY…

AUCTION AWE

The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond sold in 2011 for $8,818,500.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE A rare $1 coin from 1804 sold in 2008 for $3,737,500.

Abraham Lincoln’s 1864 Victory Speech sold in 2009 for $3,442,500.

CHRISTIE’S

HERITAGE AUCTIONS

Detective Comics #27 (DC, 1939) sold in 2010 for $1,075,500.

48

Eric Clapton’s Fender Stratocaster guitar, “Blackie,” sold in 2004 for $959,500.

CHRISTIE’S

HERITAGE AUCTIONS

SCP AUCTIONS

Babe Ruth’s 1920s New York Yankees jersey sold in 2012 for $4,400,000.

BOSS Black

BOSS 0476/S

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600

“It was blatantly obvious that the lack of safety measures had to change.”

—Sir Jackie Stewart

AMONG THE LEGENDARY DRIVERS IN MOTORSPORTS, FEW COMPARE TO THE FLYING SCOT. BY DAVID A. ROSE In heavy rain at the Belgian Grand Prix at SpaFrancorchamps in 1966, racecar driver Sir Jackie Stewart spun off the track at 165 MPH. He crashed into a telephone pole, went through a shed and was finally stopped by a small barn. Trapped in the car with his leg pinned by the steering column, the cockpit filled with fuel from his ruptured gas tanks and there were no safety personnel to come to his aid. Two racecar drivers—Graham Hill and Bob Bondurant—stopped their cars to help. With no medical facilities at the track, Stewart was placed in the back of a pickup truck. When an ambulance finally came, the driver got lost on the way to the hospital. It was this incident that inspired Stewart to become the advocate for safety in what was then known as The Cruel Sport.

Your contribution to the safety of racecars and racing circuits has changed the sport and saved lives.

How do you feel when you visit new circuits or revisit classic ones that now comply with FIA standards?

I didn’t do it to gain popularity (in fact it worked out quite the reverse). It was blatantly obvious that the lack of safety measures had to change, but nobody knew quite how and they weren’t about to stick their heads out above the trench. Had I not been a leading driver, I would have been suffocated by the establishment. We had so many deaths during that period that if you raced for five years, there was a two in three chance you were going to die.

The appeal of motorsports now transcends geo-

graphic and gender barriers: it is followed in countries like China, Korea and the Middle East by both men and women (who participate as well as observe). Your thoughts on this change?

The whole world is now motorized! The fact that 38% of the Formula 1 audience is now women relates to the fact that 40% of automobile purchases in North America are made by women. Just as women are more discerning about what cars they buy, female drivers like Danica Patrick are excelling in motorsports.

Many people associate American motorsports with NASCAR or Indy Cars, yet we will soon have two Grand Prix in this country (Austin and New Jersey) and we already have great sportscar racing, most notably the Rolex 24 At Daytona. Is this important outside of America?

Yes, this race is a global event, just as the World Series is to baseball, or the World Cup to soccer. Certain places have become social events, like the Monaco Grand Prix or Cannes Film Festival or Wimbledon. If you haven’t come to the Indy 500 or the Rolex 24 At Daytona, you haven’t seen the best of motorsports. But many of the great U.S. drivers have spent their entire careers here; too few pack up their bags and come over to Europe.

50

ROLEX/TOM O’NEAL

speed

A KNIGHT FOR ALL REASONS

décor

IF WALLS COULD TALK Who doesn’t love a good story? When the Coney Island boardwalk was repaired with concrete and plastic, the South American wood was “rescued” and restored, and the new owner of this iconic material now has quite a tale to tell.

A hot trend in home design, reclaimed wood is available in varieties ranging from 600-year-old bog or swamp oak to remnants of historic buildings. Accent walls, flooring, benches, tables, decking—its applications are limited only by one’s imagination.

Antique redwood, originally railroaded across the country and recently rescued from now-defunct New York City water towers, is particularly desirable because redwood is no longer harvested. Constructed by barrel makers in the 1800s, these towers were used

to store and deliver water to the top floors of New York skyscrapers. Strong yet light and water-resistant, this wood can be creatively optimized by highlighting the patterns made over time by water. Combining the interior, water-stained wood with exterior wood that was exposed to rain, wind and local natural elements takes the time-worn look up a notch. And owning a piece of the New York skyline is priceless.

Gus Retsinas, a wood flooring specialist at Manhattan Forest Products, insists that the days of tossing scrap materials are gone. “Green is in.

When a building is demolished, someone wants the bricks, someone else the wood.” Their New York Showroom features a walk-in closet with reclaimed wood flooring, finished with natural oils to bring out its intrinsic color and beauty. (The treatment

52

LITTLENY

RECLAIMED WOOD TELLS ITS OWN TALE.

BY LENORE RICH

Each time-worn board has its own character, thanks in part to its original geographic location. Oak from New England isn’t identical to oak from Michigan.”

When building their Santa Fe home, the Alexanders used reclaimed wood extensively.

Ceiling beams were constructed from trees that died naturally and had intrinsic rustic character.

Some flooring was purchased from an upstate New York mill that cut the wood before the tree was downed. By so doing, the width of the planks measures in at an exceptional 24 inches; there are also fewer seams and an undeniable originality. Old barn wood appealed to them because it had been hand chiseled. Yet another wood they selected was milled

CONVERSATION STARTER Reclaimed wood has its own unique color and character.

BRICK WALL Wooden “bricks” fashioned from Coney Island’s famous boardwalk, pictured on previous page.

EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN Wood from New York City’s water towers can be a part of your home.

“OWNING A PIECE OF THE NEW YORK SKYLINE IS PRICELESS.”

in 1882, their building was destroyed in a 2010 fire. The owners could not rebuild, much of the wood was reclaimed, and so the story lives on.

“People are knowledgeable and discerning,” says Retsinas. “Many seek out a specific source or finish.

and three inches thick, providing a unique look as well as superb soundproofing.

Is leather your preference?

Ecodomo’s line of reclaimed (recycled) leather comes from tanneries that produce for BMW, Coach and the like.

Made from at least 70% pre-consumer recycled material, it’s shredded and bound with natural latex and bark. Versatile and economical, it can be used anywhere wood veneer is applied.

Remodeling your entertainment area? Why not opt for wood flooring from a famed brewery, a chandelier crafted from antique wine barrels and a recycled BMW sofa? It’s all about the look…and the story!

53

MANHATTAN FOREST PRODUCTS

does for wood what hand cream does for dry skin.)

Many customers, including well-known celebrities, seek this material out for “the look” as well as “the story.” Prices range from roughly $11 to $40 per square foot.

Another popular source for wood as conversation piece: the stock of reclaimed wood from the Marsellus Casket Company, famed for fine wood caskets used by notables like John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline Onassis, Richard Nixon and Mickey Mantle. Established

travel

5iVE TO CROSS OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST

Conquer your fears—and see the world—one exotic locale at a time.

ADVENTURES

Losing yourself in wanderlust

is plenty safe when you’re at home or in the office. But instead of remaining far away in thought, why not hit the rugged terrain, challenging your senses with exotic sights and sensations? Your ‘bucket list,’ things to see and do before you die, should include a few experiences that push the limits of your comfort zone.

Via charter boat and petite plane, my own first to-do was an island-hopping jaunt through the Caribbean’s Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, where I pushed myself beyond caution and politeness to carpe diem.

On the sleepy, rustic-chic island of Canoan, I cruised the Tobago Cays aboard Captain Yanni’s catamaran. At the unprotected, bio-diverse Salt Whistle Bay, I proposed an excursion beyond the requisite snorkel, which allowed me to channel my inner hunter and learn to catch, kill and eat my own prey.

Underwater, I spotted sea urchins, white jellyfish, trumpet fish and stingrays. I did the dirty work, catching a few urchins and (squeamishly) plunging a butter knife into their porcupine-like shells to crack the critters open. I scooped out the sweet, yellow, yolk-like meat, added lemon, and swallowed the suckers raw.

Once I discovered my inner swashbuckler, I was inspired to keep conquering my fears.

Of course, my bucket list adventures may not be for everyone, but I’ve found that juxtaposing luxury accommodations and personal challenges can elevate any vacation experience.

Start planning your own expeditions, and consider tackling these tasks: they range from curiously challenging to seriously scary. You might just end up with a collection of trips of a lifetime.

1

LIVE AND LET GO

OVERCOME YOUR FEAR OF HEIGHTS while satisfying a curiosity for soaring through the sky (without having to jump from a plane). Nestled within a quiet expanse of verdant olive groves in the heart of Provence is Opio en Provence, a ClubMed resort. Here, I chose the flying trapeze as my pursuit du jour. Fifty feet above the grassy grounds, I clung tightly to the wooden trapeze bar. Though I was securely harnessed with a safety net positioned below, the height was hard to ignore.

After the initial panic, I let go of my anxieties and allowed my body to drop down off the plank. I embraced the rush of adrenaline and the cool, French breeze as I attempted to swing my legs over the bar in a rather ungraceful effort at circus acrobatics.

Fortunately, they let me take another swing at it.

54

2

“WHERE’S THE NORMAL FOOD?” is a frustration often overheard while

PUSH YOUR PALATE

traveling. But sampling the local fare is a culinary journey in itself. In Singapore, street eats are tasty and hygienic, thanks to the city-state’s obsessive insistence on cleanliness. I experienced the organized chaos in the acclaimed hawker markets—multiplexes packed to the brim with highly praised food stalls—where I devoured coconut-curried laksa, prawn noodles, and a red bean and herbal jelly iced kacang dessert.

Then, pushing beyond my culinary comfort, I ordered the oft-illegal (because it’s offensively stinky) durian fruit in its slightly milder ice cream form. The taste: oddly sweet, and then…somehow…not. ’s water towers

4

enter the home.

3

STAND TALL WITH CONFIDENCE

TAKE IT TO THE TOP

Walking on water is a divine experience.

There’s a stretch of calm Caribbean coast outside the Cotton House Resort, on the private island of Mustique, that’s perfect for stand-up paddleboarding.

I cast off from the shore on my surfboard, made my way beyond the initial crashing waves to calmer seas, and paused to get my bearings. Centered on my board, I braced myself and adjusted to the sensation of moving water beneath me as I rose to my feet. Still wobbly, I stood up tall and carefully dipped my oar into the glittery blue. I took one stroke, then another.

Though it was physically challenging, I truly found my zen as I skimmed gently over the rippling waves.

5

DRAMATIC, remote pockets of the world are usually unreachable by foot, let alone four-wheel drive. But they are accessible by twin-engine Bell 212 helicopter. I spent three days in British Columbia’s Bugaboos (the birthplace of heli-skiing) guided by Canadian Mountain Holidays. Traversing snow-dusted ridges, facing awe-inspiring spires, and overlooking blue-hued glaciers and glassy lagoons left me feeling humbled—and exercised my core.

At the Bugaboo Lodge, a nine-minute flight from Radium Hot Springs, we stumbled upon fresh bear tracks and magnificent photo ops. Mornings brought misty snow, while sunny afternoons were warm enough to de-layer and bask in lush, flowery pastures.

LOOK FEAR IN THE EYE

where between Geyser and Dyer islands on South Africa’s Western Cape, I sure didn’t feel like the top of the food chain. On Marine Dynamics’ 12meter cabin cruiser, I joined a dozen fearless/fearful others for a shark cage dive. Our cavalier captain and his crew of experts chummed the waters before we entered, five at a time, into a metal-barred cage dipped just below the surface in water roughly 30 feet deep. I submerged...and prayed. Suddenly, dorsal fins sliced through the water and four graceful Great Whites appeared. The inquisitive predators circled the boat before nudging the foreign object that had invaded their turf. It left me thankful to be the caged one, safely and willingly trapped inside.

56

GETTY IMAGES

Coming face to face with a Great White shark, in a channel some-

Fit by Nature, Crafted by Hand.™

FALL 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.速

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

PERSONAL SHOPPING At your request, one of our sales associates will pre-select garments that fit your style and notify you of their arrival in the store.

Alex Perez, GARYS tailor for over 15 years

HOME DELIVERY & SHIPPING We ship to anywhere in the United States. If you’re in town, we can hand deliver to your door for added convenience.

AT YOUR SERVICE

TAILORING

Our on-site expert tailors will happily work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fit.

GIFT CARDS

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Get the latest information on special events, in-store appearances, trunk shows and promotions.

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GARYS

ONLINE

Our world-class selection of brands is now available for purchase at garysonline.com.

Just click on “Online Store.”

WARDROBE CONSULTING & CLOSET CLEANING

In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And, if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.

MADE-TO-MEASURE

We proudly offer luxury hand-tailored garments personalized to suit your individual taste and style. Your measurements are kept on file and updated as needed, so a new garment can be specially created for you at any time. A wide variety of models and fabrications are available from the following brands:

BRIONI • CANALI • ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA • ISAIA • ROBERT TALBOTT • SAMUELSOHN 59

WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”

TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection

60

GETTY

end page

ENOUGH ALREADY!

On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear?

You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know.

As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz writes. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.”

Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear.

This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index.

(And who doesn’t want to be happier?)

So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best.

“Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!

CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .

AND JEANS

G A R Y S F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 2