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Anno 51 | N°3 del 04.02. 2020 | quindicinale | € 8,00 | www.fashionmagazine.it

Poste Italiane S.P.A. – Spedizione in abbonamento postale – D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 N.46) Art. 1, Comma 1 Lom/Mi/1769

Il magazine di news, business e trend

FULLY ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL EDITION

CLASH OF

HORIZONS Cover: Balmain


SUMMARY

FASHION N ° 3 www.fashionmagazine.it

7 EDITOR’S NOTE

8 INTERVIEW/JEAN-PHILIPPE HECQUET

LANVIN PLOTS NEW FUTURE

12

8

BUYERS AT PITTI & MILAN FASHION WEEK

28

A RETURN TO TRUE POLISH

INTERVIEW/STEFANO SACCONE

20

WOOLRICH STEPS ON THE GAS IN USA, ASIA AND DIGITAL

NEW FAIR CONCEPT

SUSTAINABLE FASHION CONVERGES ON WSM

22 WSM TALKS

SUSTAINABILITY REQUIRES A MULTI-STAKEHOLDER AND MULTI-CHANNEL APPROACH

25 MENSWEAR STRATEGIES

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE MARKET MIX

ON THE COVER Balmain FW 20/21 Photo Francesca Beltran @franbeltran

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37 MILANO UNICA

NEW SPIN ON ECO-CONSCIOUSNESS

40 PITTI FILATI 86

MAKE EARTH GREEN

42 PITTI BIMBO 90

BUYERS WANT MORE INNOVATION AND TOP BRANDS

20 37 25 3


SUMMARY

FASHION N ° 3 www.fashionmagazine.it

46 84

PRE-FALL 2020

DANGER ZONE

44

87 PITTI BIMBO FALL - WINTER 2020/2021

IN THE MOOD FOR JOY

44

92

BEAUTY BUSINESS

CAREERS

ECO-BEAUTY GOES GLOBAL

46 BUSINESS WATCHES

COMPLETING THE PERFECT WARDROBE

49 PITTI FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

THE REPOSSESSION OF STYLE

61

94 PORTRAIT/YOON AHN OF AMBUSH

THE ASIAN-AMERICAN DESIGNER WHO SEDUCED NGG

95 Q&A/LORENZO OSTI

«AFTER 50 YEARS OUR DNA IS THE SAME, BUT THERE ARE NO LIMITS FOR EXPERIMENTATION»

PITTI 97 OUTWEAR FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

97

AIMING HIGH

FASHION PEOPLE

67

98

MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

RED CARPET

SHARP SHAPES

95 4

87

49 67 84


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It may seem to be a coincidence, but with the beginning of the new decade man’s fashion has overcome a momentous turning point. For the very first time ever, the double week of catwalk shows in Milan, Florence and Paris has brought forward a kaleidoscope of trends, styles and provocations worthy of the very spectrum that womenswear used to embody in the past. In fact, during all of fashion’s recent history there has never been such a wide array of often varying and even widely diverging ways to dress the gentleman. We can safely say that the revolution in societal norms and codes currently under way has finally arrived at the heart of an industry, such as menswear, in which traditions and bespoke mannerisms have always dictated the agenda of the day. Every rule now seems to be up for discussion, and this goes far beyond refusing to wear a tie, shirt or leather shoe. Traditional interpretations of these items do now resemble tepid reminders of a distant past. A detail-oriented nurturing of one’s identity, in the sense of refined individuality and also of a marked difference to everybody else, is at the order of the day, without degenerating into eccentricity, and in a conscious effort to remain ultracool. The consequences of this for the economic state of the industry are clear and yet very difficult to intercept. Truly iconic pieces and brands are, for instance, very hard to imagine. The norms of the past have been diverging into incompatible strands. In times of great uncertainty, it is the newfound appeal of tribalism that stands out. Men will have to choose sides, and they will be forced to play a game of subtle and hidden affiliations between starkly contrasting wardrobes. Versatile and interoperable garments will be way harder to find. Welcome, therefore, to the age of gender fluidity. Every man will have to energically state who he is – without the formerly accepted veils of false modesty or mannerist hypocrisy.

EDITOR’S NOTE

The Era of the Iconoclastic Man

Con lo scoccare del nuovo decennio la moda uomo ha voltato pagina in modo significativo e ha espresso un caleidoscopio di tendenze, stili e provocazioni tali da far impallidire la moda femminile. Mai si era vista una tale varietà di modi di vestire l’uomo. Inizia a vedersi una maniacale dedizione a curare la propria identità. Ciò che era una volta il comune sentire si sta divaricando in modo quasi invalicabile. In tempi di massima incertezza stanno riemergendo atavici istinti di tribalizzazione. Bisognerà dunque saper scegliere da che parte stare, oltre che partecipare con estro a un gioco di velate affiliazioni e apparenti conciliazioni tra estetiche contrarie.

Marc Sondermann CEO & Editor-in-Chief

7


LANVIN JEAN-PHILIPPE HECQUET 1

LANVIN PLOTS NEW FUTURE Over the last century, Lanvin, the storied French haute couture brand founded by Jeanne-Marie Lanvin has weathered war, economic turmoil and most recently, several creative waves. With a millennial designer at its helm, management is adjusting to a new age. As it faces a new decade, its success hinges greatly on the Chinese market and the behaviour of a savvy, digitally-minded consumer. We interviewed Lanvin’s CEO JeanPhilippe Hecquet on the latest chapter in the brand’s history BY SOFIA CELESTE

There has been a game of musical chairs at Lanvin since Alber Elbaz left in 2015. How is the 32-year-old Bruno Sialelli’s vision in-line with where management is taking the brand? The brand has been a bit in a grey area the past three or four years after the departure of Alber Elbaz. It has been a hectic moment for the brand, we haven’t had a clear vision. It has been a year since Bruno has been in charge for the total artistic identity of the brand and I think that the products speak for themselves. The three fashion shows he has staged were really successful. He has also been successful in reinterpreting the DNA of the brand and since Lanvin is the oldest fashion brand in the world and its history, and its story is so amazing, he has really incorporated various elements of the past into new collections. It’s the first time in the past four years that we have had someone in charge of the mens and womens collections and accessories all at the same time. I really wanted one designer with a vision to guide all three lines. It is very important for me to have consistency across all categories and genders.

8

2

3

What are the signs that Sialelli’s vision is paying off? That sort of consistency really shows in the store, creating a more transversal experience for our clientele. I would say one of Bruno’s distinguishing characteristics is his consistency across all product categories. He’s also young and energetic and very powerful. While he is very inspired by the archive and looks into that a lot, he’s infusing a lot of youth into the brand and has a very modern approach. The collections are also very alive, colourful and playful. He is just writing a new chapter in the brand. How is the market reacting to him? So far, in many ways, he has brought a lot of new energy into the brand. Department stores and all of our partners are very positive and that is important as half of our revenues come from wholesale. Overall, we have seen a lot of momentum: department stores - from the big to the trendy ones - have responded well and yesterday we just launched on Farfetch. The new creative direction of the brand and our digital communication is aligned now and things are more clear, both externally and internally. With new management and new direction everyone is back on track. There is power and passion and commitment and everyone is very excited about this rebirth. We still have a lot to do, but for now, everyone is back on track. China’s Fosun International, which also owns Thomas Cooke and has brands like Wolford and Caruso under its belt, is one of the main shareholders of Lanvin. How will a big foreign corporation help fuel the brands expansion plans into key markets like China? Fosun as a main shareholder has helped accelerate Lanvin’s bu-


are really showing signs that brand awareness is growing and the level of online engagement has taken off and is much higher than it was in 2018 as well. We expect to reap the benefits of our work of 2019 in 2020. We forecast double-digit growth in 2020 in both our retail and wholesale channels. How much is China a part of Lanvin’s recovery story? China is a major part of our strategy. We are a big brand and we need to focus and grow. China is nothing new - what is very interesting for us is that Bruno’s collections are very attractive to China and we can see that already in terms of our orders and in terms of revenue,there is a lot of traction behind our brand. The Chinese love both our mens and womens lines. We are investing a lot in China in terms of marketing and digital. In 2019 we opened three stores one in Hong Kong and two in Shanghai. Our BFC store in Shanghai in December is already ranked number three in the world for the brand. Key markets for Lanvin are China, US, France, Italy and the UK. What other potential markets or demographic has the brand yet to consider as opportunities for growth? We expect China to grow 40 percent of our business. Another facet that is interesting, is that the Chinese are also traveling a lot. In addition, we are also targeting the 20s, 30s and 40s demographic and what we are finding out is that the customers who were attracted to the magic of Alber Elbaz are finally returning. How are accessories performing and how much did they impact 2019 sales? 1. Jean-Philippe Hecquet I was in the store yesterday, speaking to our retail was appointed CEO of Lanvin team and they are just so happy because they are also in 2019 2. Backstage at the noticing that new genelast advertising campaign 4 3. A look from the F/W20 rations coming into the collection 4. A pre-fall 2020 store to look at accessooutfit 5. Bruno Sialelli has siness in China, in terms of distribution and in terms of been the creative director of ries. We just launched a digital communications, whilst forging other relationships the French maison for less number of accessories there. Since China is an important market for us, this ma- than a year for both men and wokes a lot of sense. men and they have been Chinese digital and gaming firm Tencent International is extremely successful. forging ties with major players to expand in these new frontiers. Accessories are a way to How is Lanvin forging similar ties? recruit a younger clienI was in China and travel there frequently. Last time I was there, tele. Our current target I met with Tencent, as well as other key partners. We are really is for accessories to interested in a China partnership but we are not ready to announce make up 15 percent of anything at this time. China is very technologically advanced and our business. We really you need to think about how you can adapt to that. It has been a want to invest heavily in huge focus for us. It’s about finding the right product and the right accessories, especially tools. We have already launched two digital collections in China shoes and leather goand one on We Chat that was exclusively available there in Decemods. We are also laun5 ber of 2019. And so we are looking into ways of animating Lanvin ching a partnership with in China with special editions like that. the Marchon eyewear business. Lanvin was never that strong in theLanvin just made its official debut in China inside the expansive se areas, even during the peak. Fosun Foundation building in Shanghai with the opening of the What is the brand’s major focus? Dialogues exhibit. How much is Lanvin counting on Chinese Our three major focuses are China, accessories and digital. consumers and how much do China’s sales impact annual What is Lanvin’s digital strategy going forward and what digital earnings (full-year 2019)? Is it true that China sales will account platforms are you planning to embrace over the next year? for 50 percent of revenue over the next three to four years. About 65 percent of our customers go to our website before going I didn’t say that but all the reports say that. China accounts for 70 into our physical store and we clearly want to enhance the navigapercent of the growth of the luxury market. It’s really a no brainer. tion and the experience on the digital side. This year, there were A luxury brand can’t succeed if they are not successful in China. will be some changes on the website. And we want to continue to How are 2019 earnings shaping up? Has the brand returned to partner with key players like Farfetch, Net-a-Porter and as I mengrowth? tioned before, we are speaking with different players in China, as I cannot talk about figures. What I can say is that the orders for well. We are also preparing to unveil a digital capsule in Septemwholesale were much higher in 2019 than in 2018. Recently stores ber, which is a way to promote the new vision of the brand. ■

9


BUSINESS NEWS

BY ELISABETTA FABBRI

A RECORD YEAR

FERRAGAMO RECOVERS IN THE PRELIMINARY ANNUAL REVENUE

LVMH SCORES A 15% RISE IN TOTAL TURNOVER Despite the critical situation in Hong Kong (-40 percent of sales in the fourth quarter), as well as protests in France, LVMH posted an increase in annual turnover of 15 percent to € 53.7 billion (+10 percent organically). The group was supported by a very positive fourth quarter which grew by 12 percent (+8 percent at comparable periods). The Fashion and Leather Goods business, in particular, reached 22.2 billion euros (+ 20 percent or + 17 percent organically), while operating profits rose to 7.34 billion (+ 24 percent), mainly due to the effect of "exceptional performances" of Louis Vuitton and "remarkable year" for the Christian Dior brand. LVMH has shown strong performances also for other key indicators: profits from current operating activities amounted to 11.5 billion euro (+ 15 percent), while the operating margin was 21.4 percent, in line with 2018. Net profit increased by 13 percent to € 7.17 billion, therefore a dividend of € 6.80 per share will be proposed at the shareholders' meeting on April 16: 13 percent more than the one in the 2018. In commenting on the results, chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault spoke of a "buoyant environment that remains uncertain in 2020", but the group maintains its goal of strengthening its leadership in the high-end range, relying on the strength of the brands in the portfolio and the agility of its teams. According to recent estimates by Bain & Company, China accounts for 35 percent of the personal luxury goods market and Asia for 56 percent. Asked for his projection, considering the possible effects of the coronavirus, Arnault said is too early to understand how the virus will evolve. From the information sent to him by the Chinese authorities, the virus should be exhausted by the end of March. “If it dies out in two months or two months and a half, it's not terrible," Arnault said. "If it takes two years, that's a different story."

REVENUE COMPARISON (in billions of euros)

53.67 46.83 42.64 37.60

10

+5%

+13.4%

+9.8%

+15%

2016

2017

2018

2019

Orlando Bloom, latest ambassador of Boss Eyewear (Safilo Group licensed) A STRONG FOURTH QUARTER

HUGO BOSS ACHIEVES SALES GROWTH IN EU AND ASIA-PACIFIC In the preliminary results Hugo Boss shows a 5 percent increase in sales in the last quarter (+4 percent at constant exchange rates), thanks to double-digit increases in the UK and France (+ 8 percent at constant currencies), while in Germany growth in direct retail was not enough to compensate for the "persistent difficulties in the wholesale". In Asia-Pacific, the German group posted a +4 percent in unchanged currencies, mainly attributable to the China Mainland area, where Hugo Boss posted double-digit increases. As expected, difficulties remain in Hong Kong. In the Americas, the decrease was 7 percent without the exchange rate effect. As for online sales, internally managed sales increased by 52 percent (with the same currencies), while the wholesale business reported a -4 percent. Based on these performances, the German company increased its sales by 3 percent in fiscal year 2019, which closed last December, reaching sales of 2.9 billion euros. EBIT totaled 333 million, without the effects of IFRS 16 (the new accounting standard on leasing), down 4 percent compared to the previous year. Considering IFRS 16, the operating result amounts to 344 million (-1% on 2018). “We look back on an encouraging fourth quarter. Thanks to a strong increase in sales and earnings, we have achieved our adjusted targets for fiscal year 2019,” says Mark Langer, Chief Executive Officer of Hugo Boss. “I am particularly pleased with the progress made along our strategic growth drivers Online and China. We will continue to persistently work on sustainably increasing the desirability of our brands BOSS and HUGO, and ensuring profitable growth for our company.”

The Salvatore Ferragamo Group revenues return to positive territory. After a 2018 ended with a 3 percent drop in sales, according to preliminary 2019 sales the luxury company totaled 1.38 billion euros in revenues, up 2.3 percent annually and up 1.3 percent at exchange rates constant. Retail sales, in particular, rose by 1 percent without the exchange rate effect, while the wholesale market registered a 3 percent increase. In Asia-Pacific (the main market in terms of turnover), the brand recorded annual growth of 1 percent, while in Emea it obtained a +5.3 percent. Performances in North America (+ 0.7 percent) and Japan (+ 0.5 percent) were weak, while in Central and South America the luxury brand posted a +7 percent.

ACCESSORIES DRIVE AEFFE'S TOTAL SALES In the 12 months ended Dec. 30, Aeffe (brands Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Pollini) sales totaled € 351.4 million, up 1.4 percent. Prêt-à-porter dropped to 262.2 million (-1.3 percent), while accessories rose to 128.2 million (+ 8.3 percent). Italian sales fell 4.5 percent to € 160.9 million. In Asia, the italian group benefited from a + 7.5 percent at constant exchange rates, thanks to China (+ 7.2 percent) and Korea (+ 14.6 percent).

CALZEDONIA'S SALES ROSE TO 2.4 BILLION IN 2019 Calzedonia Group grew by 4.7 percent in 2019 and reached 2.4 billion in turnover (+4.4 percent at constant exchange rates). During the year the group founded by Sandro Veronesi (see photo), which controls the Calzedonia, Intimissimi, Tezenis, Atelier Emé, Falconeri and Signorvino brands, exported 56 percent of total revenues. The company added 188 stores to its distribution network, 138 of which are abroad, mainly in China, Russia, France, Germany, Japan and the United States. As of December 31, the stores amounted to 4,859, over 3 thousand of which are abroad.


Ph. Imaxtree.com

Men’s fashion Week

buyers at milan fashion week

A return to true polish Buyers from all over the world sound off on their favorite collections from Pitti Uomo and Milan fashion week, their must-have items (with a new suit at the top of the list) and what emerging talent they are keeping an eye on by Andrea Bigozzi

L

ess streetwear (even if down jackets and sneakers are still everywhere); more tailored; goodbye to T-shirts and sweatshirts. Hello to jackets and coats; just ripped jeans are outclassed by velvet trousers. It is undeniable that Italian collections dictated a return to a more sophisticated interpretation of classic menswear for next winter. Summarizing the latest editions of Pitti Uomo and Milan’s menswear fashion week as the triumph of casual tailoring would be an understatement. At the stands of Fortezza da Basso and on the Milanese catwalks, the quality of the products on view was striking In Paris, international retailers concentrated their preferences on a handful of names; in Italy, however, the week offered many highlights. “There was a lot

12

Prada


Genderless Collections Reigned

Stefano Pilati for Random Identities

Fashion trends often mirror what is happening in society, and this season was no exception. Gender fluid styles were the leitmotiv of the Fall/Winter 20/21 collections. At Pitti Uomo, main acts Stefano Pilati and Telfar set the tone for the rest of men’s week. The latter did so convincingly, judging from the positive reception from social media and press. “My goal is to create clothes for everyone, to wear on any occasion. I want everyone to feel like themselves,” Pilati told the press. The former creative director of Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna is carrying the genderless torch. “The time has come to celebrate a self-determined man free of any societal constraints and who is not daunted by suffocating stereotypes.” Terms such as hybridization and research were also part of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s key message. “With this collection, I wanted to explore the possibility of a different male physicality, while considering the personality of today’s men, who through hybrid forms are able to build a new type of elegance.”

Justin Berkowitz My favorite show was Fendi, but Dolce & Gabbana surprised me the most, for its authentic and discreet-glam inspiration. It was really an ode to their artisanal know-how. The knitwear was also beautiful. In Florence, bravo to Stefano Pilati who showed he still has a lot to say. Federica Montelli

Rinascente Head of Fashion

of creativity and some very good energy and a lot of strong, recognizable key show looks” is the generalised opinion of buyers from all over the world interviewed by Fashion. Gucci, Prada and Fendi have confirmed their role as leaders and trend setters. Classic names such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tod’s, Brioni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Giorgio Armani and Santoni have shown that they have what it takes to face their future. In the same way, homegrown talents such as Sunnei, Magliano and Francesco Risso for Marni have managed to stand out, thanks to their increasingly stimulating offer and to outside-the-box fashion shows. The selection of LondonShowRooms designers was chosen in collaboration by the CNMI-Camera Nazionale della

Bloomingdale’s Men’s fashion director

“Workwear in general was part of an undercurrent in many shows and we have finally seen tailoring return to the runways, in force, this season. The tailored pieces have been updated with shifts toward softness and tweaked volumes, a more formal sensibility is upon us. The color palette was a big focus of the week: there were a lot of hues in camel, brown, orange, rust and the burgundy family. Shearling, corduroy and high texture knits are part of another key trend. They are not only comfortable but comforting amid ongoing unrest in the world. The must-have item for next season is a piece of wool outerwear with a little volume. The best collections of the week showed versions of the idea of elegant ease in different ways for different customers. Standout collections include Prada’s drop shoulder tweed coats, stellar graphic sweaters and printed-silk pajamas, as well as Zegna’s focus on volume in the loden coats and the new take on the double breasted jacket, to Massimo Alba’s stunning coats in controlled volumes and soft-touch knits in an excellently executed color palette.”

Moda with the BFC-British Fashion Council (and with the advice, among others, of Stefano Martinetto, owner of Tomorrow showroom). It worked: all the new, fresh talent highlighted Milan’s international appeal. Of the 15 new talents presented at Spazio 56 in via Savona (10 British and five Italian), Bianca Saunders, JordanLuca and Nicholas Daley captured the attention of buyers. Buyers see the deal between the English and Italian fashion weeks ( which also made it possible for A-Cold-Wall* to attend) as a not-to-bemissed opportunity for Milan on the scouting front. “The partnership is a great addition to the Milan calendar,” said Justin Berkowitz, Bloomingdale’s men’s fashion director. Myhteresa’s menswear buyer team, which has also been online with a section

13


Men’s fashion Week

Bruce Pask

Bergdorf Goodman and neiman marcus Men’s fashion director “I think that Alexander McQueen’s collection, and the way the brand chose to present it, was simply extraordinary. Even Prada won me over: jackets and outerwear were textbook and the English inspirations were absolutely effective. Certainly the graphic knitwear and ankle boots will be successful. This type of shoe will probably be the real best seller of next season. In fact, Fendi and Bottega Veneta have also made really interesting versions. As for Pitti, Stefano Pilati’s Random Identities show was simply extraordinary.”

Riccardo Tortato

tsum Men’s fashion director and Fashion director e-commerce “Among the most representative garments for men’s F/W 2020/2021, I choose the bomber jacket worn on top of the blazer, an idea on which Brunelli Cucinelli has been building his looks on for some time, one that many have copied this year. For accessories, I would point out the Black Edition capsule by Santoni: revisiting - in the name of class and elegance - the classic black shoe is a difficult task; but the brand has managed to create a perfect product for today’s man. As far as budgets are concerned, they are definitely on the rise, as we are just emerging from a few record seasons and we are placing our bets on the domestic market, as well as tourism retail».

SANTONI

Brands like Massimo Alba captivated buyers by infusing collections with a poetic feel Massimo alba

ced. “Gucci’s return to menswear runways has dedicated to men’s fashion since January 27, was made fashion week much more stimulating and reon the same wavelength: “This deal will help other levant. The fact that the content of the collections emerging British designers to consider the strong was particularly strong, with names like Prada and impact of MFW. Consequently, this infuses Milan Stefano Pilati, who did not hesitate to explore new with a fresh wave of designers and new talent.” But directions, did the rest,” said Bruce Pask, Menswescouting and internationalization aside, the Made in ar Fashion Director with Bergdorf Goodman and Italy heavy hitters such as Prada, Fendi, Dolce & Neiman Marcus, summarizing eight Gabbana and Brunello Cucinelli full days of men’s fashion that started have always monopolized the atThis season, in Florence and ended in Milan. Tsum tention of international retailers. even the most Mens Fashion Director Riccardo TorTheir collections dictate that starcontemporary tato put the two events to the test, ting from Fall-Winter 2020/2021 and they both passed with flying coseason, men’s fashion has entebrands opted lors: “Pitti Uomo this time around red a new era, where the idea of for a more deserves a 7. As always, the stands dressing up properly is returning upscale, offer excellence and more. Behind to center stage. That’s good news tailored look the work of many brands there is for men’s fashion in Italy, where over street passion and love for the product. Un46% of men’s clothing and 70% of wear fortunately, the size of the event majackets and trousers are produ14

It is really difficult to pass judgment on Gucci, because it makes history on its own: it must be acknowledged that Alessandro Michele is one of the best communicators and this, more than the product itself, is the determining factor for success among young Chinese.” Aiwu Chu

Secoo EU business partner


Men’s fashion Week

Sam Kershaw Mr Porter Buying Manager

Fresh Faces at London Show Rooms

“The Milan schedule housed some particularly strong collections this season. Ever the leader, Prada showcased an evolved take on tailoring and with an excellent array of outerwear. Each season seems to strike new sense of relevance. Etro, off the back of a successful Spring/Summer show last season, demonstrated another strong collection with a considerable focus on colour, texture and signature prints. Massimo Alba and Missoni were also highlights. The Brioni presentation and dinner was a high point at Pitti Uomo, set amongst the candle-lit halls of Palazzo Gerini. Under Norbert Stumpfl’s stewardship, Brioni’s classic craftsmanship was paramount. Brunello Cucinelli also presented one of the strongest Fall/Winter collections to date, with new developments, fabrics and colour ideas. Overall, it was a very good season at Pitti for all of our brands. Under the direction of creative director Michael Hill, renowned British brand Drake’s has reinvented itself and took over a large space at Pitti Uomo this season. It was a remarkable showcase and a master class on how to evolve and develop a brand. A return to tailoring remains a key trend for Fall/ Winter but we also saw lots of layering, particularly with knitwear and heavy outerwear styles.”

For the first time during Milan fashion week, the British Fashion Council (BFC) and Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) collaborated on an event aimed at attracting more international buyers to Italy’s fashion capital. A selection of fresh talent - Italian and British designers - showcased their Fall/ Winter 2020/2021 collections to an elite public. “I was taken with Nicholas Daley’s collection, as he is really a rising talent to watch,” said Bloomingdale’s Men’s Fashion Director Justin Berkowitz. The work of English designers like Bianca Saunders and Nicholas Daley struck a chord with the buying team of Mtyheresa, while JordanLuca by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto captivated Andrea Selvi of LuisaViaRoma “Even if it is a small brand it is full of surprising quirks and remarkable outerwear.”

BRIONI

Prada continues to lead the way, season after season, fusing creativity and classicism. I thought Fendi offered a fresh take on classic tailoring with convertible details. Gucci blurred the lines between what’s for boys and what’s for girls, beautifully, in a collection that blended oversized and shrunken fits.

people today must be informed about quality, to kes it hard to give due recognition to everyone’s commithave a valid alternative in dressing. They are ment. The most important stand in Florence is what I call used to buying 100 items a year, but instead, “Casa Brunello” (Cucinelli, ed.), which has been a real they need to just buy one that lasts a lifetime,” reference point for several years now. But my vote for said Silvia Venturini Fendi, explaining the philoMilan is even better, 7.5: we are at Champion’s League sophy of her collection, which more than any level here, where each brand shows the best of six other demonstrates the returning formal trend months of research and their heritage. In particular, with jackets, dresses and coats. Dolce & GabbaSantoni, Zegna Couture and Kiton deserve a special na also looks to young people. For its show at the mention.” Thus, even if the geopolitical uncertainties at ex Metropol cinema, the brand gathered 40 Tik the start of 2020 have forced the buyers we interviewed Mario Grauso Holt Renfrew Tokers to storytell Italian fashion heritage in to keep their purchasing budgets almost flat, there is a president their own words. “The message we want to send certain optimism on the consumption front. The return is to build a bridge between the Italian tradition to the timeless garments of a classic men’s wardrobe of workmanship and the new generations,” said (which younger consumers, who grew up in the cult of Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce. At fashion week, but also at streetwear, do not possess), suggests a certain change in the warPitti Uomo where “recycling” and “lasting” were the key words dedrobes of Millennials and Gen Z. The categories of consumers signers and brands used to call upon those raised on streetwear to who have contributed to a slow but constant growth of the menswelet themselves be conquered by classic garments made to last. ar market in recent years, which for many retailers has now reaThis intersects with a new awareness about the other great leiched the same importance as womenswear. “I believe that young

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Top trends Fall/Winter 2020/2021

N°21

Brunello Cucinelli

Corduroy

boots with heavy soles

Etro

Marni

New tailoring

classic Pattern

Ahmet Ocal

“For me this has been one of the strongest editions of Milan men’s fashion week. in the last two years. On a Made in Italy level, tailoring and craftsmanship have been the main focus in most of the fashion shows and presentations. Without a doubt, the most spectacular show was Dsquared2, which celebrated its 25th anniversary. Neil Barrett’s Untitled show was surprising, with its “uniforms,” - the result of a combination of utilitarian and sartorial details. Fendi was also among the best. As for the emerging designers, I found that Gabriele Pasini is an extravagant and impactful tailoring brand. I also appreciated the evolution of Marcelo Burlon. In addition, we witnessed this ‘boy-to-man’ transformation in most collections of contemporary designers. At Pitti Uomo, outerwear brands had an apotheosis: Holubar is the brand that we liked best. Ultimately, our budgets for the winter season will be unchanged.”

Dsquared2

Beymen MEN’S Buying and Merchandising Director

Chunky knits

Sustainability

Emporio Armani

magliano

It has become customary to rank fashion show locations in Milan. The metaphysical square of Prada was the most talked about, but Marni’s artistic performance at Spazio Ventura and the Magliano fashion show in a pool hall stood out for their originality.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Prada, Magliano and Marni Venues Dazzle Crowds

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Men’s fashion Week

Athleisure wanes, but Puffer Coats and Sneakers Endure

Silvia Venturini fendi I thought of clothes that can be transformed. I believe that young people today must be informed about quality, in order to have real alternative dressing. They are used to buying 100 items a year, but instead, they have to buy one thing that lasts a lifetime.

Miuccia Prada

Neil Barrett

How can I redefine masculinity while making it acceptable? I tried to answer the question with a collection that I would call “classic Surrealism,” because I sought an elegance that was so exaggerated, it seemed surreal.

Amid uncertain times, a few certainties remain. Next winter’s man is shaping up to be something of an unsung hero. Shy and concrete in his fashion choices. Sneakers and puffer coats are expected to be wardrobe staples. T-shirts and track pants seem to be on their way out. Sneakers seem like they are around for the long-haul - especially after the Tod’s presentation and the Fendi catwalk show. Tod’s unfurled its docent sneaker, the perfect compliment to a masculine look, worn with soft and/or straight tailored trousers. In the same way, puffer coats - despite the return of the loden coat will thrive and evolve into an oversized, swollen version, with clean and decisive cuts.

Gucci

Fendi Tod’s

Alessandro Michele At the beginning of this adventure five years ago, I didn’t understand anything, I did some things that resonated with new generations. I think young people are very attentive to what is happening. I am not nostalgic, I don’t cling to the past. I use [the past] because it seems like an interesting vessel.

Madison Blank Saks Fifth Avenue Head of Men’s

“The collections this season felt fresh and exciting. There were a number of memorable shows. Brioni brought its signature Italian suiting to Palazzo Gerini for the brand’s 75th anniversary and showed against a romantic candlelit backdrop. Jil Sander and Telfar showing at Pitti for the first time was exciting, with Jil Sander hosting a magical show at Santa Maria Novella church in the heart of Florence. An evolution of the shirt jacket in different fabrics and an expansion of outerwear with heavy touches of mixed material in leathers, suedes, and shearlings was definitely something to look forward to. We’re seeing some great, key color trends in canary yellow, rust, ivory, and mushroom. Corduroy is also notable in everything from micro to chunky vintage.”

tmotiv of the season: sustainability. Will the suits, coats, jackets and tailored trousers in Florence, Milan and even Paris therefore have a real-world impact, or will they remain catwalk objects? Many are ready to bet that this turning point will be commercial, not just communication. “A sensitivity towards a more formal way of dressing has finally arrived, even among the youngest consumers,”said Justin Berkowitz. “Of course, this is an updated tailoring, with a strong focus on softness and with volumes in line with today’s taste. Prada, for example, has succeeded perfectly in rethinking tailored garments to embrace the so-called Gen Z’s way of understanding elegance.”According to Andrea Selvi of LuisaViaRoma: “There is a transformation taking place that was evident at

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A-Cold-Wall *. This streetwear brand placed the jacket and the coat at the center of next winter’s collection. This does not mean that we are tired of streetwear. But it is certainly refreshing, and commercially significant, to see these garments returning to center stage (where T-shirts were just a few months ago.)” Many brands share the goal of winning over a younger audience by pairing sustainability and a sophisticated wardrobe, including Ermenegildo Zegna - which many point to as a model example. “Its evolution is very interesting,” said Ooyama Tsuyoshi, Luxury Division Manager with Isetan Shinjuku. “With Alessandro Sartori’s work, the company is managing to project a classic name into the future, and the show was enhanced by a truly special setting. The


Thanks to all the fashion buyers met at Pitti Uomo and MILAN FASHION WEEK for their support

Once again I was impressed by Sunnei: the designers Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina are doing an incredible job, in terms of shapes and volumes. Great! And what about Salvatore Ferragamo? The revisited tailoring proposed by Paul Andrew, without losing sight of quality and craftsmanship, was convincing.

• Justin Berkowitz Bloomingdale’s • Madison Blank Saks Fifth Avenue • Aiwu Chu Secoo • Federico Giglio Giglio

Ida Petersson

• Mario Grauso Holt Renfrew

Browns Buying director

• Sam Kershaw Mr Porter • Olga Mironova XXI Century Boutique • Federica Montelli Rinascente • Mytheresa Menswear Buyers Team • Ahmet Ocal Beymen

Dolce&Gabbana

• Bruce Pask Bergdorf Goodman & Neiman Marcus • Ida Petersson Browns

Kiyohiko Takada Isetan-Mitsukoshi Fashion director

• Maurizio Purificato Antonia

“In Milan, my favorite show was Prada, for its modernity and ability to interpret a ‘new traditional’ style. In Florence, I was impressed by Brioni: the event at Palazzo Gerini made an impact and the clothes were beautiful. Among the names to keep an eye on, the first that comes to mind is Ajmone, a name synonymous with leather clothing and elegant accessories, with a strong tailoring imprinting, and Prosac Alwaysmile, a Made in Italy accessories brand using completely recycled materials. The remake trend is one of the ones I believe in most for menwear F/W 20/21, together with sportswear filtered by a natural mood, and the rediscovery of the British tradition in a contemporary light. If I have to name one favorite collection above the rest, I have no doubt: Brunello Cucinelli. For accessories, Santoni is always a convincing option. One of the novelties in Milan was A-Cold-Wall*, but my impression is that a brand like this was a bit out of context and not in tune with the sort of clients that attend Milan Fashion Week.”

style of this brand is in tune with the tastes of new Japanese consumers, who appreciate handmade items, heritage, and are gradually becoming aware of sustainability.” Giorgio Armani also nodded to young people and this new elegance, which the designer calls Classic Pro, a progressive classic geared to a younger demographic. This new proposal was showcased at the Emporio Armani catwalk: a new classic that is “neither grotesque nor feminine,” underlines King Giorgio, with an updated tradition starting from the fabrics, many of which are recycled. According to buyers with a more conservative clientele, this new style was convincing. “The genderless style,” said Olga Mironova, owner of the XXI Century Boutique in Chelyabinsk in Russia, “is very beau-

• Andrea Selvi LuisaViaRoma • Kiyohiko Takada Isetan • Riccardo Tortato Tsum • Ooyama Tsuyoshi Isetan

tiful, but it has limits. During some of the shows, I struggled to understand the sexual identity of the models! In my opinion, the strongest brands in the Russian market will be the ones that give space to true masculinity. I am referring to Giorgio Armani, who always has something beautiful and elegant to offer.” This praise for the 85-year-old Italian designer was echoed by the reviews of leading industry experts such as Beppe Angiolini of Sugar and Aiwu Chu, business partner of the Chinese marketplace Secoo: “Once again, Armani has put his name on an elegant collection, but with great naturalness, without dictating a style from on high.” (with contributions from Alessandra Bigotta, Carla Mercurio and Angela Tovazzi) ■

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NEW FAIR concept

An outfit from Bav Taylor's Vikasa collection. The top is in a material obtained by treating an alocasia leaf

SUSTAINABLE fashion CONVERGEs ON WSM White Milano’s new upscale sustainable fashion tradeshow gives a privileged space to eco-conscious projects. It also gives exhibitors a chance to network and brainstorm as to how they can effectively interact with end consumers BY Elisabetta Fabbri

D

id you know that, in the past, Salvatore Ferragamo had experimented with tree bark, raffia and fish skin? This research into new materials was on loan to WSM Fashion Reboot from the Sustainable Thinking exhibition ongoing in Florence. The Italian event dedicated sustainable fashion that debuted at Milan’s BASE venue from January 11- 12 showed that the industry continues to search for new materials, but also design and services, motivated by the idea of ​​creating more responsible fashion. White Milano’s new tradeshow was founded in collaboration with Confartigianato and with the support of Italy’s Ministry for Industrial Development and the Italian Trade Agency (ICE) and is directed by Matteo Ward, co-founder of the green Wråd brand, and former creator of the White sustainable hub Give a Fokus. Located at the ex-Ansaldo space, the event attracted 4,000 visitors. Established manufacturers

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of certified denim fabric like Candiani Denim were joined by young companies such as Orange Fiber, which creates a silky-looking fabric from orange skin and pulp left after the juice is extracted. “It seems to me that this new format will help drive the storytelling around sustainable fashion,” said Enrica Arena, co-founder of Orange Fiber. “We noted a significant interest from buyers, emerging brands and independent designers: there is always a need to network to improve ourselves.” Meanwhile, the Catania-based company is seeing increased demand, from Italy and abroad, from luxury brands (including Ferragamo, an existing client) to emerging designers and new sectors like home textile and beauty. “In July we raised capital through crowdfunding because we want to increase production capacity,” said Arena. “Our goal is to reach 15 tons of fiber in 2020, and 60 tons in 2021. Sustainability is a growing trend, and the Italian consumer is beginning to under-

stand that we are on a risky and expensive path.” “We have met mostly industry insiders, like designers and other manufacturers,” said Candiani Denim. “This was a useful event for networking and we appreciate the space, which is more functional than the WSM-White Street Market (held last June at Superstudio Più, ed.). It was more orderly and democratic, because everyone has the same space.” Fashion brands leader was Vivienne Westwood. “Ten years ago, the brand already began to collaborate with the International Trade Center’s Ethical Fashion Initiative (an agency for international trade involving the UN and the WTO). We employed African women in disadvantaged communities,” said Isabella Tonelli, Corporate Social Reponsibility Coordinator, Italy, with the London fashion house. “Not charity, just work, is Vivienne Westwood’s motto, who has now made a series of bags from small communities in Kenya, recycling the canvas and pieces of metal for


1. The Artknit kniwear 2. A responsible sweater by Care by Me 3. A coat made by 0/100 4. The denimwear by Peruvian brand Sophia Lerner 5. Orange Fiber collaborates with E.Marinella

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2

3

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the logo,” she said. “Over the years, public attention had grown - especially among the new generation,” she continued. “This WSM is a nice contact point for buyers and end customers who are the real change makers.” The British designer Bav Taylor, who founded her sustainable luxury brand in 2015 and was a Who is on Next? Finalist in 2019, presented a collection of ethereal garments in truly experimental materials. The top is made from eco-leather obtained from alocasia leaves. The shirt is in a fabric that combines rose petals with organic cotton while the buttons are in recycled cotton. The sandals have fish skin leather uppers and a regenerated leather sole. Sophia Lerner has been designing and producing her brand in Lima since 2016 and her favorite material is an eco-denim that comes from Brazil, which she uses to make customizable garments. She sells mainly in Latin America and the United States. She would like to sell in Italy too, even though she didn’t meet many buyers in Milan. Hailing from Denmark, Care by Me offers timeless knitwear, an expression of Nordic minimalism. Founded in 2012 by Danish designer Camilla Guilts, the label chooses only highend materials that meet the GOTS-Global Organic Textile Standard criteria, and relies on the hands of expert knitters in Nepal. “I find WSM Fashion Reboot interesting and well organized,” said Ennemo Quist Picece, Care by Me’s agent in Italy. “We mainly met private individuals and students, not many buyers. In any case, it is important to spark this mentality shift.” The Italian industry offers no shortage of innovative proposals in terms of materials. Gilberto Calzolari’s womenswear uses cork, while Gianni Serra’s Awareness Infinitum offers outerwear, knitwear, shirts and trousers that use certified eco-sustainable materials, from recycled cashmere to Isko Earth Fit responsible

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An award for ACBC sneakers The WSM fair awarded the best sustainable product and the best service among exhibitors. Acbc quick-change footwear won in the product category. Regarding services, the winner was the sustainable brand online platform staiy.com.

denim. “This event is going in the right direction to create an interconnected circuit,” said Andrea Lonigro, spokesperson for the brand. 0/100 Zerobarracento is a mulit-awardwinning project launched four years ago by the Milanese native Camilla Carrara. With a degree in Fashion Design at the Polytechnic University of Milan and a master in Fashion Sustainability from Esmod Berlin, she decided to focus on a gender neutral outerwear line with two pluses: 0 waste and 100% sustainability. “We choose materials from certified suppliers, and the production chain is circular rather than linear,” she said. “We look at how to reduce waste starting from the garment pattern, and we keep the offcuts, which become a decorative element.” By providing for a prolonged life cycle of the product, the seams are reduced to the indispensable and no buttons, zips or hooks are used. Design and production are Italian and the high-level materials come from a fully traceable supply chain. Alessandro Lovisetto is the co-founder and CEO of Artknit, a Biella-based startup

that produces luxury knitwear on demand according to sustainability standards and sells it directly to the final consumer exclusively through the Artknit online platform, active since March 2019. Lovisetto comes from a family in the business of knitting, so he inherited the know-how and passion for knitting, which he combined with studies in economics and a conviction that sustainability is a key factor. “Our project had the support of Giusi Cannone’s Fashion Technology Accelerator, and is getting positive results in Italy and abroad,” he said. “The strengths are natural yarns such as Biellese wool and cashmere, artisanal production, limited environmental impact, reduction of waste, total traceability and the advantageous price for the final consumer.” “We are also ready to create capsule collections with designers and with retail partners, and are studying a capsule with Yoox,” he adds. What does he think of WSM? “It is an interesting experience, especially to gather feedback. We also sold some shirts to visitors,” he ended. ■

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brainstorming at wsm fashion reboot

Sustainability requires a multi-stakeholder and multi-channel approach If we talk about responsible fashion, everyone says they are enthusiastic, but translating this feeling into concrete actions is complex. The best way forward is establishing cooperation between the players in the supply chain, including buyers who organized the #FashionForPlanet talks in Milan di ELISABETTA FABBRI

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he Fashion Pact signed in September 2019 in Paris by a group of fashion companies led by Kering 1 committed to protecting the climate, biodiversity and oceans is a noble but abstract plan, said Italian fashion ble store. “In the future it will be possible buyers at the #FashionForPlanet conferento create a completely recycled shop,” said ces. The trade association Camera Buyer this maker of custom furniture. “In ancient Italia gathered representatives from branRome, buildings were built by recycling the ds, showrooms, academics, consultants shards of amphorae. Today fashion branand analysts for two talks about sustainable ds do not use recycled building materials, fashion and its impact on the evolution of the because they and builders are unaware of buying business. The event was hosted in new materials, or simply because they are Milan by Wsm Fashion Reboot. “Buyers train a hurry to open.” Busnelli sees the store vel around the globe for fashion weeks: we of the future as a “museum” space, where could start by taking a look at this aspect of shoppers can discover new trends and view the profession, creating a capsule collections, with a department new set of rules for a grecomfort zone and dressing ater sustainability when rooms that tell the story of stores we make purchases,” said the garments through infoplan to Camera Buyer Italia Presigraphics, and explain what double the dent Francesco Tombolini. happens to them after you sustainable Another starting point could are finished wearing them. fashion range Which brings us to the topic be for buyers to adopt common guidelines for what 2 defines a sustainable store now being drawn up by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, a trade group made up of Italy’s top fashion houses, with research center for applied sustainability Goldmann & Partners. “I want to push for the application of these guidelines,” said Camera della Moda President Carlo Capasa in his speech. Founder and CEO of Busnelli Corporate Andrea Busnelli seemed optimistic about the concept of a sustaina-

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1. To combat climate change, Timberland wants to plant 26,000 trees in Ghana, north of the Daka River 2. One of the talks organized last January by Camera Buyer Italia during the WSM Fashion Reboot

of products. According to McKinsey’s Global Sustainability Report 2019, buyers from the world’s best-known department stores say they plan to double the percentage of sustainable purchases in five years, from a current 23% to 42%. Some companies have long been gearing up for increased demand for sustainable products. For example, VF Corporation, which owns brands like The North Face, Timberland and Vans, began to worry about environmental impact nine years ago. It has created three sustainability pillars for its business. “The first pillar is the circular economy which means among things, for some brands, the customer can try out the product before buying, with the option of returning it. Then we have ‘take back,’ where the brand recycles a garment and resells it. We also carry out targeted training for our product development staff,” said Anna Maria Rugarli, the group’s EMEA sustainability director. “Scale for good” is the second pillar, which is a commitment to protect people (in terms of dignity, health and well-being) and the planet from risks. The third is empowerment, from employees to consumers. Max Ferrari, founder of MC2 Saint Barth, said he aims to make all of the brand’s beachwear from recycled and recyclable materials starting from 2021. “The next challenge will


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1. All of MC2 Saint Barth beachwear will be in recycled materials from 2021 2. Sweatshirt and jumpsuits Rewoolution, made from merino wool 3. Bags in recycled denim by Regenesi

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be to convince the buyer to return the garment after he is done using it for recycling. Let’s think about a bonus for buying a new bathing suit to get people back into the store.” Another way of getting customers to bring garments back into the store is through personalization. “Allowing a customer to create their own bag right up to the trimmings is very important, and allows the store to focus on the physical relationship with the customer,” said Maria Silvia Pazzi, rate Social Responsibility executive, and sufounder and CEO of Regenesi. This brand stainability is seen above all as an opportubegan a program to “transform waste into nity for advertising. “This can benefit Italian beauty” 12 years ago, when there was still textiles,” Bayer noted. “In this sense, the use no market for this sort of idea in Italy. But of common standards could help.” Moving to sustainability in and of itself is not yet a driRussia, there is a real responsible interest in ver of purchases, said Luca Martines from fashion from retailers and consumers, but Rewoolution, Reda textile group’s fully trathere are plenty of obstacles to overcome. ceable technical-sportswear and urbanwe“Retailers prefer to buy without budget guiar brand. “In our case both delines, in order not to have wholesalers and consumers inventory left, while brands in France are ahead of the curve in impose minimum quantifrom 2023 sustainable clothing, but ties,” said Elena Bugranono company sometimes the shopkeeper va, president of the Russian could is the final consumer and it Buyers Union. London showis difficult to get out of this room RainbowWave’s fashion destroy circle.”Even the German its products curator and wholesale ammarket – which is quite evolbassador Lucia Restelli foved in terms of sustainable fashion – has cused on the topic of minimum orders. “We some distance to travel, according to the reneed minimum order sizes, to guarantee sults of a survey by TextilWirtschaft (owned designers that suppliers apply their most afby Dfv media group, which also publishes fordable prices,” she said. RainbowWave has Fashion). “From a sample of 290 indepenalways worked with sustainable brands and, dent retailers, most say sustainability ranks in Restelli’s experience, Japanese buyers are 5 on a scale of importance from 1 to 10,” among the most loyal. “They are very attentisaid journalist Tobias Bayer. “Sixty percent ve to the artisanal component. They only buy say that they offer sustainable products, products for the consumer they know well, which generate 20% of sales on average. Hoand never in large quantities, because they wever, only 12% of buyers have an in-store do not want them to go on sale.” She belieexpert on the subject.” Among customers, ves there will be more interest in sustaina35% ask questions about sustainability. Only ble fashion only if a cultural change occurs. 3% of German fashion houses have a CorpoRiccardo Grassi, owner of the eponymous

Milanese showroom, sees a future with no distinction between sustainable and nonsustainable fashion: “It might take three, four, or five years but it is possible and it won’t take much.” He believes the sector is following the footsteps of the organic food industry, and that consumers are more aware of sustainability than buyers, who usually aims for what he thinks will attract “the customer’s eye.” “The textile makers are the ones who have worked hardest,” he said. “The challenge now is to create beautiful proposals in sustainable fabrics.” Grassi says there is a priority: “We all have to respect workers: is it more sustainable to worry about a pound of plastic, or a human being?” Bocconi University professor Francesca Romana Rinaldi, author of the new book Fashion Industry 2030, talked about a new meaning of sustainability, which implies integrating ethics and aesthetics in the supply chain in a multi-stakeholder and multi-channel perspective. “Otherwise the true meaning of sustainability does not reach the final consumer, who today wants to be involved,” she said. PwC senior partner for Fashion & Luxury Nicola Giorgi also put the emphasis on creating a system: “Even Mercedes-Benz and BMW have joined forces to enter the car sharing business. Stella McCartney has created easy-care products, while washing machine manufacturers are concerned about changing the washing methods,” he said. The regulatory vacuum remains a problem. But certain countries in Europe can be used as a model. “In France from 2023 no company could destroy its products,” said Giorgi. “Sweden offers a tax exemption for responsible companies, and the United Kingdom applies different tax rates according to the fabrics used.” Greater clarity when navigating the wide-open sea of certifications would not hurt, especially when a brand deals with the world of finance. “Today everyone is ready to say that sustainability is fantastic, but beyond company narratives, investors want more detail, and they want companies to demonstrate how their way of proceeding is different from the others, as well as what sort of guarantees they give to the consumer,” said Bernstein’s financial analyst Luca Solca. He expects more investments in production and in suppliers, for greater control of the supply chain, following the example of Hermès, Chanel and Lvmh. As for distribution, according to Solca, sustainability requires at least minimum orders, to avoid waste, and greater transparency on the sale price. “Multibrand stores will always be useful for customers for finding new things. Digital retail is excellent, but only if you already know what you want.” ■ 23


Distributed and licensed by Nice Footwear Srl www.nicefootwear.it


The L.B.M. 1911 menswear made by Lubiam for next winter

menswear strategies

It’s All About The Market Mix In 2019, Italian menswear companies reached 10 billion euro in turnover as they became increasingly export-oriented. They are now looking to top that by finding the right mix between consolidated and emerging markets. Without missing the mark on taste and fit BY ELISABETTA FABBRI

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t’s shaping up to a prosperous time in the menswear sector. According to Euromonitor International, in 2019, spending on designer men’s clothing rose globally by 3% to 25 billion pounds (almost 30 billion euros) and is expected to increase by 22% by the end of 2024. In addition, British research group Technavio predicted that between 2020 and 2024 the overall global menswear market will grow an annual compound rate of 6%. A greater variety of styles and colors will support that trend, but also technical tailoring, athleisure and organic menswear. Italy’s menswear industry also has something to smile about: Confindustria Moda said revenues rose 1% in 2015 to estimated a 4% in 2019, to 9.9 billion euros. Exports, which grew by 7.8% in 2019, generated almost 70% of total sales, up from 63% in 2014. The mix of buyer countries varies from brand to brand and, according to industry members, getting it right is increasingly complex. The Paul&Shark luxury sportswear brand is decidedly more export-focused than the national average: 85% of global sales totalling 150 million in 2019 (in line with 2018)

come from abroad. But the composition is gradually changing. Europe is in the lead, an area where President and CEO Andrea Dini is optimistic. “Germany, France and the UK are growing in line with our expectations, as well as Belgium, Holland, Austria and Switzerland. We have just started a partnership for Scandinavia, and Greece, which had disappeared in the last 10 years, now seems to have recovered.” Dini does not expect big surprises from Russia. “For us it is an excellent market, but demand is concentrated in Moscow and St. Petersburg, and those two cities are now saturated, because even the businessman who lives elsewhere tends to move the family to these cities and shop there,” he said. “Japan and the United States are two markets where we have recently launched. We also expect interesting signals from sub-Saharan Africa, which looks almost like China 20 years ago. It has over one billion inhabitants and already has a middle class, unlike India, where there is still no middle class and men’s clothing is divided between high and very low end of the range.” The Chinese market, on the other hand, is

men’s sell-out in italy by type of product

1 Clothes

- 5.6%

2 Shirts

- 5.4%

3 Knitwear

- 4.0%

4 Ties

- 2.5%

Source: Confindustria Moda Period: F-W 2018/2019

a mature market, where Paul&Shark has been present for 20 years. When this edition went to press, it was still too early to estimate the impact from the spread of the coronavirus. Any possible lost sales could be partially offset by Vietnam, “which is going very well,” and by new entry markets such as Malaysia and South Korea. Hong Kong has continued to suffer for months, due to prodemocracy protests. The domestic market is a patchwork: “Multi-brand stores in the small towns, with the shopkeeper offering fashion advice, are increasingly rare. Today the consumer already has clear ideas about

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ther was a shoemaker as well as a leather what he wants, and goes shopping online or clothing craftsman. Another focus is leather in big cities.” “The Italian market is a stable clothing, made with the same construction one for us, even if it is suffering. Our goal is as outerwear, one of the brand’s best sellto maintain our position,” said Giovanni Biers. But in the coming months who will anchi, Style Director at Lubiam, the Mantuaemerge victorious - streetwear or formal? “I based family-owned manufacturer. The USA, think the younger generation can get closer on the other hand, is the most important to formal, if it is offered in the right light. foreign market, thanks to specialty retailers A waisted jacket with straight shoulders, on the East and West Coast, which are both eighties and nineties well-performing markets. style, and slim trousers ”American shoppers are 1. An outfit from the too much can captivate 20-25 year beginning to look for ItalPaul&Shark capsule personalization olds and the average ian-style garments: they collection for the One Block Down store contemporary man,” said approach patterned fab- makes you lose in Milan 2. In 2020 Lerario. “Certainly our rics more easily, whereas sight of the Tagliatore bets on upcoming investments before we had to come brand identity leather proposals will focus on product up with market-specific quality and communifabrics. And now they are cation, to create a new story that infuses buying deconstructed jackets, rather than strength into the collection. We are also the classic models,” he said. “Canada is also looking for a location to open a single-brand a source of satisfaction, and has unexpressed 1 store,” added Lerario. Others are doubtful potential. The fact that tariffs have fallen, sers, where wider and more comfortable formal wear is making a comeback. “I don’t thanks to the trade agreements between slacks are making a comeback and so are know if streetwear’s days are numbered, Canada and Italy, can only be good for our pleats. As far as jackets go, I don’t believe but I don’t see the return of the man in a exports.” After a rough patch, the Japanese much in the return of larger volumes: they gray suit and tie. I don’t think that our DNA have started buying Made in Italy again, but will remain slim but more comfortable, is streetwear and it’s not fashion either. - tired of the by now overly-familiar deconoutfitted with stretch fabrics, jersey and in It’s luxury sportswear,” said Paul&Shark structed outerwear - they are returning to a soft-touch fibers.” Lubiam expects to close owner Andrea Dini. Customization, he said more traditional product. In Russia, Lubiam 2019 with revenues of around 50 million euis ubiquitous. “In our company, it has been is benefiting from the shift from extremely ros, in-line with 2018. The company intends pushed too far and we are pulling back, beformal high-end raw materials to affordto invest mainly in tailor-made products, cause there is a risk of us losing our idenable luxury. China is not a significant market which involves more staff both internally, tity. We will; however, be keeping an eye for Lubiam at the moment, while Korea has as well as in-shop experts who are tailors signs from China.” At Lubiam Giovanni Bistarted to develop, which tends to take inspiand consultants. The plans also include inanchi is convinced that menswear is leaving ration from Japanese looks. Also for Pino vestments to reduce time-to-market and to streetwear at all costs, as the last fashion Lerario Tagliatore’s Creative Director and improve the relationship with wholesalers, week indicated. “The market is asking us owner, South Korea is a new frontier. At the thanks to digitalization. To increase brand for research and innovation in the construcsame time, the family-run company is also awareness, investments will be made in tion of garments, in performing fabrics mulling expansion in Russia and the Unitcommunication via traditional media and and in easier-care garments. When it ed States. “We haven’t really concencomes to fit, we are working on troutrated a lot on those markets. There through social media. ■ is a problem of preferences, as well as fit, which is why we are thinking of personalizing the collections.” In paralitalian menswear industry (2014-2019*) lel, Lerario continues to bet on Italy. “It Data in millions of euros has many problems, but for us, it remains the most important 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019* market, where we generate REVENUES 8.767 8.881 8.981 9.291 9.515 9.900 50% of the turnover and Var.% 1.3 1.1 3.4 2.4 4.0 where we continue to have PRODUCTION VALUE 4.834 4.656 4.643 4.643 4.727 4.733 sell-outs.” For Lerario, the Var.% -3.7 -0.3 1.8 -1.7 1.9 second-strongest marEXPORT 5.535 5.660 5.796 6.100 6.396 6.896 ket is Japan, followed by Var.% 2.3 2.4 5.2 4.9 7.8 France and ScandanaIMPORT 3.718 4.009 4.010 3.977 4.317 4.632 via. Lerario forecasts 28 Var.% 7.8 0.0 -0.8 8.6 7.3 million euros in sales TRADE BALANCE 1.817 1.651 1.786 2.123 2.079 2.264 for 2019, up 4% versus last year and is focusEXPORT/REVENUES (%) 63.1 63.7 64.5 65.7 67.2 69.7 ing its efforts on sneakers. It’s “a dutiful step” *Estimated Source: Confindustria Moda given that his grandfa2

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Ph. Simone Giara

menswear strategies


LIGHT + BOLD INTERVIEW stefano INVERTIBILi saccone

1.Stefano Saccone, Woolrich CEO 2. The Arctic Parka, star of the event organized at Pitti Uomo to celebrate the brand’s 190th anniversary

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Woolrich steps on the gas in usa, asia and digital Woolrich’s new CEO announced the brand’s gameplan at January’s edition of Pitti Uomo, where its Arctic Parka capsules Luxe, Tech and Eco were at the centre of festivities for the brand’s 190th anniversary. About a year after Luxembourg investment fund L-Gam’s deal, Woolrich is ready to go full speed ahead in the Far East and the United States, while stepping up its digital game By Carla Mercurio

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hat goals did Woolrich achieve in 2019? It has been a year of remarkable transformations. We made great strides in strengthening our management with new hires. At the same time, we transformed our commercial channels and geographic and organisational network structure. We made consumer-targeted investments, including the opening in August of the new New York store, which is two and a half times larger than the previous one. How has the company changed? There has been a great change in mentality: we have gone from being a licensee/distributor to being a global brand owner, thanks to the changes brought by the [L Gam] fund, with its know-how and its expertise. Today, highly experienced industry experts sit on our new board of directors. What priorities do you have now? Geographically, there is an important focus on North America, where the brand was born and where today we generate 10% of our total turnover. Two years ago

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we presented the brand’s new face in this market, in harmony with the European target. Today we have a management showroom, an on-site team, a new shop and an active e-commerce channel. We expect a significant acceleration. How will you tackle the Far East? Asia makes up 15% of our turnover, mainly concentrated in Japan, where we are fortunate to have a joint venture with Goldwin, which produces our outdoor line, and which is also our shareholder with 20%. At the moment, the Woolrich brand is in Tokyo and Sapporo, plus an outlet in Kobe, and the inauguration of a new monobrand store is in the works in Osaka in 2020. We expect to open a second one in Tokyo in 2021. The following step is South Korea, which is a very interesting market. We will open a store there in Seoul by the end of the year together with Goldwin. Where are you at with China? It will be our next step: this is a market to approach with caution, where consumers are fast, informed and demanding. What about Europe? The lion’s share of turnover is still in Europe

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at 70%. We are strong in Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland and Benelux, and there is still a lot of potential in the United Kingdom, France, Spain and Eastern Europe, including Russia. What are your goals in term of digital? Our focus is on digital, with large ongoing investments. In 2019, e-commerce revenue rose by double digits in EMEA and in the States, where our two platforms are active, accounting for a 10% share of turnover that we want to double over the next three years. We want to be where the consumers are. Today, more and more, their purchases start from their phone. We are therefore, focused on a mobile-first strategy, which will see major investments in terms of brand and communication, as well as structures and resources. What is Woolrich’s positioning nowadays? We are a premium, entry-point luxury brand, with a strong, well-researched, quality product. Our prices don’t exclude Millennials who are primarily interested in buying products that meet their needs. The two Tech and Eco versions of the Arctic Parka and the Goldwin-produced Outdoor line maybe even more, are emblematic. Priced 30% lower than the main line, the Outdoor line is currently not very visible outside Japan, but we are currently making plans to position it in young and digital oriented channels. Do you foresee changes on a wholesale level? We have around 2,000 customers worldwide. It is important for us right now that the channels reflect our premium-entry luxury positioning. This will involve careful analysis of the network and appropriate assessments. What is the outlook in financial terms? We expect digital sales to grow double digits in the USA, as well as Asia. In Europe, however, the goal is to evolve from medium to high-single digit, with differences between less mature markets and areas like Italy, where we are already very strong. ■


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NEWS

Fracomina launches (I’m) Bella, “perfect shape” denim 2

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Fracomina, a brand that boasts a 20-year heritage in the denim world, launched (I’m) Bella, the innovative and technological perfect-fit jeans that embrace body shapes in a natural way. The model was the fruit of years of research and innovation and of an accurate ergonomic study of the legs. Fracomina created ten different iconic models, for diverse, yet distinctive body types. Some facilitate a heart-shape bottom, whilst taking the pocket shapes and the effects achieved by the use of a light and bodyhugging denim into consideration. “(I’m) Bella is a project born from years of work by our design team, which markets the perfection of our top sellers,” explained Ferdinando Prisco, CEO of Pfcmna, the company that heads Fracomina. “It was all about studying the female body in its complex entirety to create an authentic perfect shape.” (a.s.)

Orciani’s online sales are making a significant impact on its earnings, only one year and a half after launching its e-business. “Sales are growing in the double digits and represent 10% of the total turnover. We strongly believe in digital. I hope it becomes our first market.” Present in 800 multi-brand stores, of which 300 in Italy, the Fano, Le Marche-based label is also investing in physical retail. “We are currently mulling the opening of a new store,” said sales and marketing manager Claudia Orciani. “Brera (one of Milan’s most upscale neighorhoods) is at the top of our list.” Innovation and sustainability are also a priority. The company recently released The Planet backpack, which is made entirely from recycled or regenerated materials and accessories. Its small leather goods are also outfitted with RFID technology, in order to prevent data theft.  (a.t.)

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Orciani’s E-Commerce Business hits Double-Digit growth

Piacenza Cashmere: A Flagship and A future in womenswear

The evolution of Piacenza Cashmere, one of the world’s most historic fabric makers, continues. High-quality materials, such as a mixture of the finest Royal Cashmere and vicuňa, distinguish its tailored coats, made with fabrics from the Lanificio Piacenza collection. “We are a vertical reality - from raw material to finished fabrics - and thanks to a consistent relationship with our suppliers, we control all the stages of the packaging: this is our strength,” said Vasiliy Piacenza, fourteenth-generation Piacenza family member, who runs the Biella-based company, which was founded in 1733, with his family. Piacenza defined the last two years as “very positive, especially 2019, which was slightly better than 2018”. The men’s collection is distributed in eight markets through its wholesale channels and an online store, while a retail space could be on the horizon. “The right year could be 2021.” The projects also include the launch of a women’s line. (a.t.)

Carlo Pignatelli: “And now, it’s all about accelerating abroad” After a 15 year absence, Carlo Pignatelli finally returned to Pitti Uomo with the first taste of a new menswear project. “It will be fully implemented with the upcoming Spring/Summer 2021 collection and it thrusts us into a new arena, linked to the world of elegance, thanks to bouyant online sales, our distribution channels and our presence in the most important fashion retailer stores,” said the Turin-based tailor. Speaking at his stand at Pitti’s Fortezza da Basso trade grounds, Pignatelli and his nephew Francesco showcased their new project - the result of months of hard work. “It is a sartorial capsule of 25 garments designed for artists who hail from all backgrounds. Special, unique pieces with structured, textured and mixed fabrics that range from glossy to opaque, full to empty and that has a three-dimensional effect, printed in animal, geometric and floral patterns,” Pignatelli explained. Wool, silk and lurex were incorporated into jacquards made with both antique and innovative techniques, such as hand cutting and avant garde coating effects. It’s a new feather in the cap of a brand that is strongest in Italy but that is experiencing significant growth in Asia and the US. (a.t.)


SS-2020

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NEWS

La Martina Expands Leather Goods with Principe

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pscale Argentine label La Martina is gearing up to make a splash with its new leather goods line at the upcoming Micam tradeshow that will unfold Feb 16 to 19. La Martina recently entrusted the production of accessories line to Varese-based leather goods maker Principe to expand its accessories line. Principe, a historic company founded in 1955, which also produces Cerruti 1881 and Automobili Lamborghini’s leather goods lines under license, recently dedicated a new showroom area specifically for La Martina’s leather goods on via Gesù in Milan’s Quadrilatero district, where it already has an important outpost. “Focusing on the accessories arena is strategic for a reality like ours, as it is a conduit to the world of saddles and boots,” said Enrico Roselli, La Martina’s European ceo (see photo). Prior to inking a deal with Principe (which generated 16 million in annual revenue), La Martina directly managed its leather goods production for two years after breaking with Compagnia delle Pelli. “This agreement will allow us to grow, not only in terms of volumes, but it will also allow us to enhance the perception of the brand and our visibility throughout all markets,” he explained, adding that through this new relationship, La Martina now has the opportunity to focus on balancing its mens and womens accessories offering. Today, womens bags represent 80% of the

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total bag revenue, but the goal is to drive mens revenues up to 50% from 20%. Travel retail is also a focus of the accessories collection, that runs the gamut from metropolitan to sporty looks. The new line has been priced at a range of 89 euros to 599 euros. The collection, which will be sold in multi-brand shops and through various other channels, is expected to be showcased at Micam, along with the brand’s footwear line, which has been produced under license by Le Marche-based company Giano, since 2006. Giano also produces footwear for Harmont & Blaine under license and Woolrich through a joint venture. Looking ahead, La Martina aims to interact with specialists in each sector, in order to best interpret the brand’s ethos to a growing market. Digital is also key to this ongoing strategy. “The goal,” Roselli explained, “is to create a network of collaborations at all levels thanks to a platform that affords us direct access to our contacts, licensees, agents and distributors and single-brand stores. It means producing content that can be disseminated at all levels for everyone to use it,” he said, adding that La Martina is also gearing up to unfurl a capsule with Italian auto design firm Pininfarina. The capsule, inspired by the polo and winter sports worlds, will be positioned to high-end customers and was envisaged as a joint project between the Argentine group, Principe and Giano. (c.me.)

Bagutta’s Latest Shirt is Stain Resistant Bagutta unveiled its latest design at Pitti Uomo in January. Innovative and practical, the B.Clean shirt is tailored with classic silhouettes yet is crafted with a hightech fabric that resists stains, as well as sweat marks. The patented garment was envisaged with two key features: repellency and breathability, which was made possible via special treatments that are incorporated into the natural cotton fibres, during the spinning and weaving process. A truly forward-looking product for a modern man, the eco-friendly B.Clean is part of Bagutta’s Fall Winter 2020/21 collection. (an.bi.)

MCS: The Relaunch Continues. E-commerce READY FOR DEBUT Mcs turned the spotlight at Pitti Uomo on the 1987 capsule, which re-edited eight cult items from the 1980s in a contemporary light. “We have recovered the garments linked to the heritage of the brand that were born in 1987, and we aim to speak to a higher-end customer, in order to give the brand and the collection the positioning it deserves,” said Gianfranco Sovernigo, co-owner of Nemesis, the company that since 2018 manages production and distribution of the brand in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (excluding France). Together with his brother Valter, Gianfranco took over the reins in order to revive the brand. Today, the results are beginning to come to the fore. “After a year, we have created a network of about 130 stores in Italy, plus 30 abroad. We have already returned to markets like Greece, Bulgaria and Belgium and starting in Fall-Winter 2020, we expect to hit the Scandinavian market.” Sovernigo said that they are on the path to open two mono-brand stores this year in Piedmont and Veneto and added that a womens wear collection and an online platform are also in the works for the following year. “Between February and March of this year, our e-commerce website should debut at mcsapparel. eu.com. The online sales portal, which we are managing internally, will start in a bilingual edition, Italian and English, and then will be enhanced with a Spanish version, in order to cover the entire Emea market, excluding France ”. (c.me.)


NEWS

Frankie Morello’s new wave continues with kidswear and accessories

kidswear collection for boys and girls, as well as a collection of accessories, made in-house. For Fall-Winter 2020/2021 it debuts as a complement to clothing, but from Spring/Summer 2021, it will be a full-fledged collection. As for footwear, in February, we will present our first running shoe, paving the way for new developments in this area. How are you doing on a commercial level? We have a total of 180 multi-brand stores in Europe, Eastern Europe and the Middle East, and 50% of our turnover is from exports. Our main goal now is to penetrate the Far East – not only China, but also Korea and Malaysia. Our e-store, inaugurated six months ago, will help us in this new adventure. We strongly believe in digital, especially to break into countries where the Frankie Morello brand is unknown.■

BY Angela Tovazzi

During Milan fashion week, Frankie Morello’s new mono-brand store opened on via Verri, 4. The brand founded in 1999 by Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti joined the Ammaturo family’s FMM in 2016. But the news does not stop there, General Manager Stefano Di Nezza says. You have just inaugurated the new Frankie Morello flagship store. What does it mean for the brand? Our brand has a wholesale focus and we intend to stay that way. But the flagship will help us make a stronger impact in showcasing our message: the new wave at Frankie Morello. What are the key features of this new wave? A new management team took over 1 about a year ago, and has introduced a new logo, Frankie Morello Milano. Damir Doma arrived as creative director starting with Spring/Summer 2020. The brand image was a little blurred, and some of the identity was lost. Our goal is to start from the brand’s DNA, channeling its flair for color, prints and irony, and repositioning it on a more sophisticated

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1. Stefano Di Nezza, Frankie Morello’s General Manager 2. A menswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 preview 2. The Frankie Morello’s new mono-brand store opened on via Verri, 4 in Milan

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and high-quality level. This is what customers are asking for first and foremost today. What is Damir Doma working on? In Milan, we presented the Fall/Winter 2020/2021 men’s preview. In February, industry professionals will have a look at t​ he new creative direction on the co-ed show during women’s fashion week. Other near-term projects: a new

Piquadro’s New Eco Collection Italian leather goods and accessories label Piquadro is stepping up its game in the field of sustainability. After years of planning its own eco-friendly line, the Bologna-based group finally presented its first collection made with recycled materials at Pitti Uomo in January. Dubbed Green Collection PQ-Bios, items were mainly crafted with Econyl, a regenerated nylon thread made from upcycled fish nets or old textile fibres. The internal linings and cords were made with 100% RPET, a Global Recycled standard-certified recycled plastic. Each Piquadro PQ-Bios piece is also outfitted with a tag that shows the PQ-Recycled Index, which was created by 34

the company to certify the ratio between the weight of the recycled material used in that product and the total weight of the material in the manufacturing process. Green packaging and merchandising was made primarily of paper, which boasts the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification. “We believe that today, it is our responsibility to be pioneers in the world of sustainable innovation and therefore leaders of a cultural shift that, in harmony with profits, shifts the focus to respecting the environment and driving social progress, in order to guarantee a future for next generations,” commented Piquadro Group CEO Marco Palmieri.  (a.t.)


Harmont & Blaine launches an athleisure capsule and inks a production agreement with Lubiam

Bikkembergs ACCLIMATES to new ownership. “We look forward to double-digit growth” With a new owner, Bikkembergs had an intense 2019. With Chinese group Modern Avenue at the helm, the company is ready to make important investments in retail, as the company books excellent financial results. ‘The Spring Summer 2020 sales campaign ended with double-digit growth in all product categories and in 2020 we expect further acceleration,” said Dario Predonzan, coo of the Levitas company, which owns the brand. Predozan was speaking at the Bikkembergs stand that was set up at Pitti Uomo, where the label’s Fall Winter 2020/21 collection designed by Lee Wood was presented to an international crowd. For the year that has just begun, the priority is about strengthening the brand’s international reach without neglecting its home market, Italy. “After opening a new mono-brand store in Chongqing in November, we foresee five more openings in China in 2020. We have also opened a few stores in Russia, our top market and we are evaluating locations in St. Petersburg and Sochi, which could soon reach as many stores as we have in Italy.” “We would like to Dario Predonzan return to having a flagship in Milan. It is a question of choosing the right area of ​​the city, but for the moment we are doing scouting,’ added Predonzan, who said that he was satisfied with the response received at Pitti. For the past six months, the entire product offering has been concentrated under a single collection called Bikkembergs and the new merger has led to a new coexistence between sportswear and urban wear within the FW 2020/21 collection. The season also saw the return and the revamp of the brand’s iconic Soccer football shoe, its true best seller. “Footwear specifically, will be strategic for the success in the United States. In this market, our new licensee, Global Brands Group, is developing many contacts and is creating an interesting distribution network.”  (an.bi.)

Harmont & Blaine is adding to its product range, entering new markets and launching a new brand image. The company is now in the hands of General Manager and COO Christian Prazzoli, who has decided to bring the new collecetion back to Milan fashion week, where he announced his new development plan. “On the product front, a real upgrade is underway,” commented Prazzoli, who has management experience with Benetton and Nike under his belt. “Without betraying our heritage, we decided to enhance our line with more tech and sustainabile features. We are introducing two projects in the Fall-Winter 2020/2021 collection that are important to us: the first is an athleisure capsule collection. Then, a part of our main collection is made of recycled and technological materials.” Harmont & Blaine presented a selection of denim made of ecological cotton and a wide range of knitwear (16 different shades) in eco cashmere, from 100% Made in Italy yarns. “Our athleisure line is made up of more basic and traditional garments, such as T-shirts and sweatshirts, and avantgarde pieces like footwear with a stretch sole,” he said. “The ‘move’ jacket is made of water-repellent and windbreaker material, and the wash & travel jacket is a tech blend nylon jersey fabric, which does not need to be ironed after washing,” he added. The jacket is a key piece of the new collection. “In the past our collections have never focused on a single garment, such as a shirt or trousers, but things are about to change, as the production agreement with Lubiam shows: they are the ones who will make the our jackets,” he said. In the new Harmont & Blaine catalogue, there is still room for heritage, as demonstrated by the FreeSpirit capsule collection that incorporates the brand’s DNA while

revisiting it in a humorous way. “We reworked the Blaine pullover in a preppy key,” he said. The production process did not distract the company from driving sales. In 2018, the company booked 93 million euros in sales and 2019 was positive thanks a 3.5% gain in retail and a 29% rise in e-commerce revenue. For 2020, Harmont & Blaine is gearing up to enter new markets. “Our partnership with Galeries Lafayettes calls for opening new corners in France’s main cities until spring 2020, including one in the historic Paris headquarters on Boulevard Haussman,” said the executive. The brand development roadmap will take it to more distant markets such as Asia: “The real 2020 target is China, where we expect a big development. Our network already has 12 stores in Taiwan, four in Hong Kong and two in Shanghai, but the business plan foresees 100 openings in five years.” To ensure a change of pace, Harmont & Blaine has also planned major investments on the image front. “We are about to choose a new advertising agency that will help us renew our brand identity. It will be an important path that should also end with the restyling of our logo,” said Prazzoli. (an.bi.)

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TEXTILE WORLD

30th Edition

Milano Unica’s New Spin on Sustainability Milano Unica, which is slated for February 4-6 at Milan’s FieraMilano Rho fairgrounds, will place sustainable fabrics in its Trends Area for the first time, in order to underscore the fact that eco-fabrics are becoming and should be a fashion staple by ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA

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ilano Unica continues to evolve. As the market gears up for the 30th edition of the fair, organizers said that the number of exhibitors inched up versus last February’s edition, by a total of seven to 477. Some 417 of those will be present at the Textile Exhibition area. Eighty European countries will be at the fair, in line with a year ago. The biggest delegations are expected to come from France, Great Britain, Portugal and Switzerland. The exhibition concept has changed, after organizers decided that Trends and Sustainability are the two main conceptual souls of the event. For the first time since the Milano Unica Sustainability Project was founded, the products and proposals from this area will be integrated in a major way into the Trends Area, the creative hub of the entire tradeshow. “This is not merely a physical division of space but rather a symbol of a cultural and operational fusion between two strategic assets of Made in Italy fabrics. The intertwining of creativity and sustainability are not just the buzzwords of a single edition, but a path that must include an increasingly large number of exhibitors as main drivers, not just because Milano Unica says so, but because the market demands it,” organisers said. Seminars have

been organized by fashion and textile lobby Sistema Moda Italia (SMI) around this new ethos, including one that shines a light on how closely the supply chain is linked to the environment, an in-depth study of the unexpressed potential of the African continent and a focus on innovative startups. Aside from the inaugural conference Feb 4, which will certainly be centered around the sector’s involvement in shaping an eco-sustainable fashion sector, there is talk in the press office about a seminar regarding one of the most natural fibres of them all: linen. Organized by SMI, the event is expected to involve Michela Secchi from Centrocot, Marie Demaegdt from Masters of Linen and Ornella Bignami from Celc Dream Lab. Returning new names include Como’s Ghioldi

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1. Spring/Summer 2021 from Lanificio Fratelli Piacenza 2. One of the themes from Botto Giuseppe 5 is graphic design 3 seersucker 3. Some proposals from Eurojersey’s Sensitive Fabrics, which at Milano Unica is launching the Conscious Tech line 4 4. A zip from Lampo, now working with RadiciGroup to create a recycled zipper 5. A trend preview for SS 2021 from the fair, inspired by the athmospheres of Mexico City, Los Angeles and Papua Nuova Guinea

(printed fabrics), Lorenzi from Padua (highlevel technical fabrics), Jacob Muller from Switzerland (innovative labels thanks to Velvedge technology), French brand Carreman (high-end men’s and women’s fabrics), the Dutch Verhees Textiles (fabrics), the Prato-based Manifattura Rosati (knitted fabrics) and Lombardy-based firm Omniapiega (recycled and biodegradable polyester fabrics). Milano Unica is also increasing its online presence with its digital fair e-milanounica, a B2B marketplace for high-end textiles and accessories, which will mark it second edition with Spring/Summer 2021 fabrics. So far, over 150 exhibitors have joined the platform and promotional activities have been launched to encourage buyers to use the portal ■

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LIGHT + BOLD textile world INVERTIBILi

Première Vision: eco-responsibility meets technology

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he upcoming edition of Première Vision Paris will bring together 1,755 exhibitors (slightly down from 1,782 in February 2019) and around 150 new entries, representing 48 countries. ​​ The annual trade fair dedicated to fabrics, yarns, textile accessories, leather and textile design will run from February 11-13 across five halls at the Paris Nord Villepinte convention center. Once again, sustainability is the key. “Almost one in two European consumers bought at least one responsible fashion garment in 2019 and a recent study by Ifm-Première Vision Chair

confirms that buying eco-responsible fashion is no longer just a trend, but a groundswell impacting the entire industry,” said Première Vision Paris Managing Director Gilles Lasbordes. The new Smart Creation space in Hall 3 will take on a key role. It combines the Wearable Lab dedicated to fashion tech with the Smart Creation area about responsible design, which was previously held only at the September edition. The Smart Creation area will host the Mutations exhibit, dedicated to the theme of biomimicry and created in partnership with Le Coup d’Avance. PV is also renewing its collaboration with MatériO’, a library specialized in identifying innovative materials. Moreover, the fair provides a Smart Creation itinerary at the show via an App. On its website, 160 exhibitors said they have an exemplary approach to responsible production of yarns, fabrics, leathers and accessories. Among the other highlights are the Maison d’Exceptions in Hall 6, with a select number of ateliers specialized in both traditional artisanal techniques and exclusive innovative technologies, and the booming Première Vision Leather, with 255 exhibitors and 39 new companies. Première Vision Designs (222 exhibitors) will welcome nine fashion schools and organize the PV Next Gen Awards. The Manufacturing area is growing and now numbers over 200 players. The Sport & Tech sector will showcase nearly 70 exhibitors, while Première Vision Accessories is strengthening its fashion jewelry offer. The trade event will host 12 fashion forums; trend and business seminars; as well as conferences about eco-responsible strategies and technology.

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ince 2018, The Fairlyand for Fashion has become an international summit for the latest trends in style and innovation in the fabrics, accessories and apparel arenas. Once known as Texworld and organised by Messe Frankfurt France, the mega trade show unites Texworld Paris, Texworld Denim, Apparel Sourcing Paris, Avantex Paris, the new Leatherworld Paris and Shawls & Scarves Paris, all under one roof. The latest edition of the revamped mega fair will unfurl at Paris’ Le Bourget Exhibition Centre between Feb 10-13. “It has always been my goal to provide our visitors with much more than a textile exhibition,” Michael Scherpe, president of Messe Frankfurt France said. “It’s a space The image chosen for inspiration and expression, thanks to our by Messe Frankfurt France as the symbol of ongoing work on trends and special events.” Texworld Paris, one of The main draw to the summit is the opportunity the six sections of The to network with a variety of international Fairyland for Fashion exhibitors. For example, Indian exhibitors will feature prominently, among a total of 400 at the Apparel Sourcing Paris, the trade fair for sourcing of clothing. Companies from Ethiopia, Egypt, Mongolia, Vietnam and many others will also participate. Among the new entries at Leatherworld Paris, a growing number of Chinese, Indian and Turkish companies are expected. Once again, Indian companies will take centre stage at Shawls&Scarves. Indian silk experts, supported by the Indian Silk Export Promotion Council, will represent one of the

Paris Fairyland for Fashion is on The Rise

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highlights at this exhibition, which is dedicated to scarves, wraps, shawls, headscarves, stoles, capes and more. At Avantex Paris, visitors will be privy to the latest in ever-evolving world of fashion and tech. The first international tradeshow dedicated to the innovation in the textile and fashion industry, Avantex will host firms dedicated to innovative fabrics, materials, components, products and services for Fashion, including innovative fibers and textiles, conductive inks, new printing and textile embroidery techniques, wearables, software, prototyping tools, and new solutions for smart retail. Turkey is expected to be a main protagonist, with a 500 square-meter space dedicated to the nation’s leading firms.


A new era at Munich Fabric Start

“Thrivability” is the key word of Munich Fabric Start, the textile fair attracting around 1,000 international fabric collections from February 4-6 in Munich. Thrivability means enthusiasm, positivity, transparency, quality and a new understanding of holistic sustainability in the textile sector. This word can also describe the concept of the Trend Forum, which will unveil a newly developed icon guidance system, focused on sustainable and technical aspects of all the materials presented in these areas. The denim area Bluezone, open only from February 4-5, will number around 100 exhibitors. It invited participants to reject egoism and “create ecoism.” Don’t miss the Tencel x Jeanologia x Endrime project, made at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to create a truly sustainable workwear wardrobe. Another highlight is CirculArt, a collaboration between 10 companies in the

sustainable textile production chain, from yarns to final product. Saat x Candiani Denim created the hostess outfits based on a concept of “no waste products.” Lastly, Munich Fabric Start’s think thank Keyhouse will showcase the latest innovations, be it the luminous jacket from Musgo Tech, 3D printing and 3D knitting from Coccoon and the solution for a digitally networked supply chain from Lectra. Also at Keyhouse will be a “Nurture Room,” a series of workshops by Pauline van Dongen where like-minded people can share their ideas to redefine the fashion industry. Similarly, with her project Re-Fream, Care Applications founder and CEO Carmina Ferri aims to bring together designers and researchers to jointly develop innovative fashion concepts. Munich Fabric Start means many keynotes and seminars: among them, at the Keyhouse, “How automation will change the fashion industry” with five high-tech experts.

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YARN BUSINESS

MAKE EARTH GREEN In the era of greenwashing, textile companies, primarily spinning mills, and brands are committed to bringing about positive change by becoming more transparent and traceable. This mission is implemented at every level: informing end consumers, educating customers and suppliers and properly training the new workforce. A strong trend emerged at the recent edition of Pitti Filati, in which companies, presenting their Spring-Summer 2021 collections, responded dynamically to a complex market scenario.

BOTTO GIUSEPPE Botto Giuseppe’s sustainable fashion is translated into Naturalis Fibra, a collection whose standout materials are wool, including wool blended with silk, crêpe wool with a dry touch, linen and trans-seasonal cashmere. Colors also reflect the eco-friendly trend, with neutral and delicate shades that generally feature a gradient effect. The precious raw materials chosen by the company will be collected in a book presented at the next edition of Milano Unica, a kind of educational manifesto to raise awareness.

BY ALBERTO CORRADO

SHIMA SEIKI According to preliminary calculations by the Confindustria Moda per Smi Research Centre, in 2019 Italian spinning mills recorded a drop of -5.8% in revenues, equal to just under

2.8 billion euros. Wool and cotton spinning is particularly struggling, while linen is holding up. Exports have fallen by 4.9%, but imports have also dropped by over 3%.

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A substantial contribution to sustainable production comes from the mass customization possibilities offered by highly specialized knitting machines, such as those produced by Japanese group Shima Seiki. The flagship is the MACH2®XS: presented to the public during the Florentine fair, it has four needle beds. Its SlideNeedle machine is ideal for producing Wholegarment garments using needle-by-needle processing. The computerized rectilinear machines represent a real technological revolution, partly thanks to the LCD touchscreen with a USB interface and an anti-blackout device that makes it possible to resume work after an outage.


MONTICOLOR

ZEGNA BARUFFA LANE BORGOSESIA + WOOLMARK

FeelFine is a new 100% organic cotton yarn from a controlled and sustainable supply chain. Above all, it has a high degree of flexibility that enables it to be used in the most diverse ways, from hosiery to more structured clothing. A new milestone in Monticolor’s journey to create products with high-performance and environmentally friendly features.

Wellness and protection prevail in the three lines Baruffa, Chiavazza and Botto Poala. The 100% natural yarns come in an eclectic range of colors: Ethereal Pale Pastel, transparent shades (Water), Off-Bright Hues such as gray and brown, Vibrant and Striking tones and minimal Durable Modern colors. A poetic journey in which the protagonists are the product and its quintessential fiber: wool. A message shared with The Woolmark Company in the “Lana d’estate” campaign, which enhances natural characteristics to obtain breathable, light yarns that are also perfect for the summer.

LANIFICIO DELL’OLIVO The homemade theme, associated with a return to simplicity, is the strength of the Pratobased company. This vision is materialized in innovative yarns: the cottons are organic, with a few additions of recycled polyesters, blended and twisted in bright green or darker shades, such as olive green, as well as material greys and nude. The new organic linen is enhanced by an escalation of warm color shades, interrupted by talcum powder and dusty solutions. The digital effects feature unusual color patterns, while the ocean becomes a primary recycling source with its plastic bottles dragged in threads with iridescent, fluid and liquid surfaces.

CARIAGGI Dynamic sensations of movement and color vibrations favor pastel harmonies, with unexpected romantic shades of chlorophyll greens and new shocking pinks for crisp textures in line with the demands of modern fashion. The standout products are Euphoria, combed yarn with a crêpe effect for elegant creations with luminous effects, and Waitaki, a blend of New Zealand Merino wool (70%) and the finest silk (30%), with exceptionally light textures.

FILPUCCI The new Filpucci PE 2021 yarns, 75% sustainable fibers certified and designed to have a low impact, range from recycled linen (63%) with 37% organic cotton, resulting in a thin and ductile yarn, to the combination of organic hemp and polyamide, for a healthy and clean fiber, since its cultivation uses little water and does not require pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. The combination of 70% raffia and 30% creates an unusual and natural-looking yarn with a bright, crisp, dry, swishing feel. Another important step for Filpucci is its participation in the responsible Re.Verso™ Take Back platform, which brings discarded garments back to life, making consumers an active part of the circular economy. 41


PITTI BIMBO 90

BUYERS WANT MORE INNOVATION AND TOP BRANDS Fortezza da Basso was crammed with top brands, but buyers would like to see even more. They were also clamoring for really interesting new names – something they did not always find. The turnout was not stellar. “The sector is going through a complex phase of evolution,” the organizers point out BY ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA

A

bout 5,900 buyers came to the latest edition of Pitti Bimbo in Florence: a larger number than six months ago, when there were 5,100; but less than 6,400 that came the year before. The total number of visitors was stable, around 10,000. The number of foreigners buyers coming from 80 countries has not fallen significantly (at over 2,300 compared to the previous 2,450). But the number of Italian buyers decreased. “Kidswear is going through a complex phase of evolution, with some international areas and scenarios that face critical issues. Italian domestic consumption is stagnant, and last but not least, the more traditional product segments suffer more than others,” said Agostino Poletto, General Manager of Pitti Immagine. Once again, therefore, the fair reflects a two-speed market, which was also evidenced by buyers: foreigners are more positive and the Italians are more

42

reflective and even critical at times. “This is the first time for me at Pitti Bimbo,” said Keiji Kakinoki, Senior Buyer from Takashimaya’s Kids’ Clothing, Information Device and Hobbies divisions in Japan. “I can’t compare it to the other editions, but the impression is positive. Pitti Bimbo is an excellent opportunity to see the big brands, primarily Emporio Armani, but not only. For example, I was impressed by Charabia, a brand communicating a sense of contemporary chic, and the duvets from Italian label Suns, in tune with what little kids want right now. A sporty style predominatesdat the expense of the formal, scaled down compared to the past.” Kazunori Fuke, Ma Mere group Vice President and COO, said: “It is worth mentioning Mimisol, who played on the fairytale color and atmosphere but also on simpler garments, to mix with the others, and Il Gufo: the show in Santa Maria Novella was exciting and the collection is in constant

Looks from the FW 20/21 Monnalisa show at Leopolda Station on the evening of January 16

evolution. Even if it wasn’t in the Fortress, I can’t fail to mention Fendi, synonymous with an impactful mini-me. Among the niche proposals, Bambam’s baby accessories are fun.” The fair does have a weak point, said Fuke, which is the lack of interesting new names. As for the winning trends for F/W 20/21, the manager has clear ideas. “Teddy Bear or warm fabrics such as velvet, as well as fabrics that combine technical, ecological and functional content. In terms of styles, mix and match. Among the accessories, mini-me handbags for girls are candidates for best sellers.” Especially in some markets, the brand factor still makes the difference. “Emporio Armani, The Marc Jacobs, Chloé, Dkny: Pitti Bimbo is the stage for brands that are highly appreciated in the Emirates,” said Mohamed Yasfouri of Al Mana Luxury in Qatar, “together with brands that can help us expand our product range. For example Nikolia, from Lithuania, who impressed me with unconventional elegance, and Patachou with her affordable luxury. In Qatar the winter season means mostly streetwear, while summer gets a little bit more formal.” Among Italian buyers, Anna Annibali’s Elisabetta Bonello in Civitanova Marche agrees with Kazunori Fuke, because she also claims not to have found enough innovation in what was at


IN SHORT

SIMONETTA: FIRST ELIE SAAB, NOW THOM BROWNE 1 5

2

1. Emporio Armani showed again at Pitti's Sala della Scherma 2. An ensemble by Mimisol 3. Giovanni Basagni of Miniconf during an event organized at Florence's Museo degli Innocenti 4. The Il Gufo fashion show in the refectory of Santa Maria Novella 5. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac closed the Benetton show at the Lorenese theater

3

At the Florentine Fuori Salone with an event dedicated to its Emilio Pucci license, Simonetta was the subject of a lot of talk. After announcing the agreement with Elie Saab for the brand’s baby line, it signed a “hybrid” agreement with Thom Browne, which debuts in kidswear together with the Carisma Group company. Simonetta will handle the production and distribution of Thom Browne for kids in the wholesale channel, while the mono-brand and department store part will be followed by the brand. After a soft launch, the first real collection will be for Spring/Summer 2021.

4

the show. “I have seen collections that are a bit too similar to each other and the atmosphere was not particularly sparkling,” she said. “I see, among other things, that some important names prefer to invest in external events. Of course, there were some other brands besides the usual ones: Message in the Bottle in the KidzFizz section and, also on the Top Floor in the EcoEthic section, Naturapura, which is riding the ongoing sustainable wave. Regarding the Top Floor, the location on the attic floor in my opinion is not ideal, too decentralized. Among the accessories available to add excitement to retail locations, which is what customers want, I liked the dolls made in Naples at Profumo di Cotone that I saw in the Fancy Room area.” “I have not missed an edition since Pitti Bimbo started,” said Franca Bojeri from Papalla in Novara. “But this time I have to send a message to the organizers: too many copycat foreign brands, while it would be better to enhance Made in Italy. Brands like Monnalisa and Il Gufo, which staged strong events outside the Fortress, are the Made in Italy standard-bearers. Stone Island, one of our best sellers, no longer comes to Florence. I found something interesting on the Top Floor: especially Caffè d'Orzo, not new but trendy. And at Fancy Room I liked Fior di

DOLCE&GABBANA SUPERSTARS AT FORTEZZA, THEN OFF TO QATAR

Coccole, handmade shoes and accessories for newborns.”“Sales have rewarded brands such as Fendi, Dsquared2, Golden Goose and Ralph Lauren, which are not at Pitti,” said Salvatore Perfetto of Petit Pashà in Naples. “The fact remains that Fortezza is where we meet, where we talk to each other, where we have a direct relationship with companies. That's significant. However, we need to be mindful that retailers now start buying in December, if not earlier, and when we get to Florence we have already seen at least 60% of the collections. The preview factor is practically non-existent. Apartment is one of the sections richest in ideas and the Top Floor also has nice surprises, but in my opinion there should be more clarity in how brands are shown. Among the new labels I appreciated Caroline Bosmans, an original way of interpreting childrenswear.”  ■

Long lines at the Dolce&Gabbana stand in Florence to be photographed with the two look-alike puppets of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Beyond the social aspect, the FW 20/21 collection pays homage to nature, also taking inspiration from the world of basketball and animal print. A boutique entirely dedicated to children will open in Doha by the end of the year.

VIVETTA: LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT FOR FOLLIE’S GROUP After the agreement with Camac for childrenswear, Vivetta has joined up with Follie’s Group from Autumn/Winter 2020/2021. “Together we will develop an exclusive product,” said designer Vivetta Ponti. This is the latest name for the Campania-based group whose portfolio already includes the under-14 versions of Byblos Boys & Girls, Love Therapy, Miss Grant, Manuel Ritz and Paolo Pecora Milano, just to name a few.

43


BEAUTY BUSINESs by ANNALISA BETTi

Eco-Beauty Goes Global

Chinese and Brazilian consumers are dominating the worldwide beauty terrain. In terms of trends, eco-friendly products and custom-made formulas are on the rise

avon distillery

Blumarine

it’s china time: the country of the Dragon is becoming an influencer

sephora

F

ollowing Korea’s K-Beauty wave and Japan’s beauty boom, C-Beauty is now the latest buzzword to grip the beauty industry. Indeed, it’s now China’s turn. Beautystreams, the most authoritative global trend forecasting agency in the cosmetics sector, reported that China’s growing upper class and new generations are rediscovering their age-old culture

44

and traditions. As far as the beauty sector is concerned, China has the potential to rise up through the ranks and take its position as an influencer. Emerging brands like Scent Library, Home Facial Pro and Marie Dalgar (the first local brand to be sold by Sephora in China) are among the names redefining the term Made in China, which today strives for high-quality, carefully selected ingredients, innovation and advanced formulas - and seeks a clean departure from the stigma of counterfeit or cheaply made goods. Another fast growing nation is Brazil, which today is the fourth largest consumer of cosmetics (after the USA, Japan and China). According to the Brazilian Association of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry (ABIHPEC), Brazil s experiencing a moment of economic reawakening, due in large part to the recent opening of European-owned production facilities, such as the Italy’s Beauty & Business, which heads the divisions Alfaparf, Dibi and Olos, and France’s Fareva.The main driver is Natura & Co., which recently acquired Avon, after Aesop and The Body Shop, and is now the fourth - largest cosmetic company in the world. ■


Significant new trade events point to an evolution of the market: the second edition of Sustainability & Naturals in Cosmetics will take place in Prague, from May 6-7, while the first edition of Clean Beauty in London will unfold in the London Brewery from October 12-13. A slew of indie brands are expected to make a splash. One of them is France’s L’Accent, a company famous for its beauty-meets-wellness hybrids like its ”chestnut make-up,” a line that is the result of transforming chestnuts into a powder foundation, a formula rich in antioxidants and polyphenols.

l’accent

clean beauty in london Decorté AQ

THE RISE OF CLEAN BEAUTY

TAILOR-MADE FORMULAS

L’Oréal Perso

Customization is in demand, especially when it comes to the skincare and make-up industries. And companies are heeding the call. Case in point: Yves Rocher SkinDiag, an app that supports Beauty Advisors in formulating the perfect beauty routine by analysing 22 parameters of the skin in just five minutes, is just one of the groundbreaking inventions driving the industry forward. Another example was unfurled by L’Oréal. Perso, a device presented at the latest edition of CES in Las Vegas, uses AI to create foundations, creams or customized lipsticks. Perso is expected to hit the market in 2021 and beauty addicts are waiting for a price to be revealed very soon.

Kylie Jenner

While Coty (which already owns Max Factor, Rimmel London, Ghd, CoverGirl and OPI) has signed a partnership with Kylie Jenner, targeting younger customers, Hermès debuted a line of lipsticks targeting the same type of fashion aficionados driving the success of their whimsical foulards. Like the legendary silk scarves, the colourful nuances are also expected to show similarities, while the packaging - refillable and designed by Pierre Hardy has been created with some of the same components of the brand’s famous bags. Priced at $72, thankfully, they are much more affordable than a Kelly or a Birkin.

hermès

yves rocher

Breaking News

45


BUSINESS WATCHES

Completing

Wardrobe

According to the Bain-Altagamma Worldwide Luxury Market monitor, the personal luxury goods market rose by 4% to 281 billion euros in 2019. This macro sector is dominated by fashion and accessories like watches, one of the main drivers of the highend sector. It should come as no surprise that the penchant for luxury products abroad continues to lift exports of Swiss watches which is worth 20.3 billion euros, up 2.4% last year. This affinity is reflected in the male wardrobe. The clothes may indeed make the man, but it’s also all about details and, more than ever, a valuable watch makes all the difference.

Balmain

the Perfect ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Automatic Skeleton

Roger Dubuis has been at the forefront of contemporary Haute Horlogerie since 1995. His creations are in tune with the spirit of the 21st century and with a refined and extravagant men's style. The Excalibur and Velvet collections are symbolic of the pursuit of excellence, the development of this complex craft, as well as the intrinsic, constant elements that are at the soul of the Geneva-based Maison. Framed by the iconic Excalibur design, this caliber embodies the essence of the contemporary avant-garde, expressed through the language of architectural and technical mechanics.

Case: rose gold Face: réhaut anthracite, gold plated hands, rose gold sphere in 18k Band: rose gold 18k Water Resistance: 5 BAR Diameter: 42 mm Price: 121.799 euro Boutique: Pisa Orologeria, via Pietro Verri 9, Milano Winding system, power reserve: mechanic, self-winding. Calibre RD82OSQ, “Poinçon de Genève” finishing. 60-hour reserve

BY ALBERTO CORRADO

HUBLOT Spirit Of Big Bang Meca-10 The Swiss watchmaker, founded in 1980, stands out for its innovative concept resulting from the fashion-forward combo of gold and rubber. "The Art of Fusion" was envisaged by its visionary president, Jean-Claude Bivier, and has been carried forward due to the ability of its ceo, Ricardo Guadalupe, since 2012. Careful to safeguard its advanced and traditional know-how, it's made for a man that is dynamic and a visionary and someone who holds a place at the great events of his time.

Case: shot hammered black ceramic and sapphire crystal Face: matte black skeleton Band: striped black rubber Water Resistance: 5 ATM Diameter: 45mm Price: 26.900 euro Boutique: Pisa Orologeria, via Pietro Verri 9, Milano Winding system and power reserve: mechanic manual charge, calibre HUB 1233 MECA-10. 240 hour power reserve

46

Fendi

The osmosis between the case and movement, a facet that is characteristic of this calibre, due to the fact that its motor is visible from the transparent dial.


A. LANGE & SÖHNE Richard Lange Jumping Seconds With the founding of his watch manufacture in 1845, the Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the foundation for the haute horlogerie heartland of Saxon. His fine pocket watches are still highly sought after by collectors from all over the world. After the Second World War, the company was expropriated and the name Lange & Söhne risked falling into oblivion. In 1990 Walter Lange, the great-grandson of the founder, re-started the company. Today A. Lange & Söhne produces a few thousand gold or platinum wristwatches each year, for men that aim to perfect their own traditional style, according to classic aesthetics. The Maison’s new timepiece pays homage to the eldest son of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, with its animated red finishes that recall the Bauhaus design.

Boutique: Pisa Orologeria, via Pietro Verri 9, Milano Winding system, special features and power reserve: mechanic and self winding. Calibre L 094.1. Micrometric balance adjustment, with lateral adjustment screw and gooseneck spring. Reserve 42 hours

Giorgio Armani

Case: white gold Face: black Band: crocodile leather Water resistance: 3 ATM Diameters: 39,9 mm Price: 72,800 euro

TAG HEUER Tag Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition In 1860, at the age of 20, Edouard Heuer founded his watchmaking workshop in the Swiss Jura, a sub-Alpine forest region. The creation of the Mikrograph in 1916, the brand’s sponsorship of Formula 1 in the 1970s and the launch of the first luxury smartwatch in 2015, reflect the Maison's passion for innovation, precision and an avantgarde design. The collection destined to receive particular attention this year is the Tag Heuer Carrera, a line that reviews the brand's most iconic chronographs. Since they were introduced onto the market 60 years ago, these timepieces have resonated in the racing world and among sporty gentlemen with a bold spirit.

Louis Vuitton

To celebrate 160 years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has reissued this caliber with an evocative design from the 1960s, enhanced by the avant-garde watchmaking of the 21st century.

Case: Steel Face: Shiny with a silver “soleil" effect Band: Alligator Water resistance: 10 BAR Diameter: 39 mm Price: $6,450

Boutique: Pisa Orologeria, via Pietro Verri 9, Milano Winding system, special features, power reserve: mechanical with an automatic charge, Calibre 2447S,“One of 1860” and “Limited Edition” (only 1,860 pieces) engraved on the back of the face. 80-hour power reserve.

DAMIANI D.Side The Maison founded in 1924 by Enrico Grassi Damiani in Valenza, the most important goldsmith district in the world, is recognized for its excellence. Since its beginnings to today, a Damiani jewel is renowned as a unique, Made in Italy, hand-crafted masterpiece made at the hands of skilled goldsmiths. Each piece is characterized by exclusive design, attention to detail and the quality of its gems. For nearly one hundred years, the brand’s values have been handed down from generation to generation. Today, the third generation: Guido, Silvia and Giorgio Damiani, are keeping alive a passion for excellence and beauty,”which has remained at the core of their business for decades.

Case: white gold Face: black enamel with white gold insert. Luminor-treated indices. Band: black alligator Diameter: 39 mm Price: upon request Boutique: Rocca 1974, piazza del Duomo 25, Milano Winding system and power reserve: mechanical, self-winding

Ralph Lauren

The D.Side model, with its exquisite manufacturing for an elegant man and with an innate savoir faire, is a beacon for the entire haute horlogerie sector.

47


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PITTI FALL WINTER

vtvt vtvu

THE

REPOSSESSION OF STYLE The reacquisition of a style through the selection of garments which transform an anonymous wardrobe into a place of research and confirmation. The ultimate aim for years, now more than ever before, for many Made in Italy brands, which through innovation introduce small changes, also tweaking the codes of elegance for winter 2020/2021. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

Ph. Enrico Labriola and Vanni Bassetti. Courtesy of Pitti Immagine

Digel 49


ď‚?

PITTI FALL WINTER

1 BAGUTTA: Shirt of the Bagutta di Milano line with grey mĂŠlange archive print with green and black stripes and bowling collar 2 HAVANA & CO.: Parkas, jackets and down jackets with comfortable and linear shapes enhance the elegance of materials with bold colours or graphic designs 3 TEN C: Garment-dyed rain coat made of OJJ-Original Japanese Jersey fabric

1

4 ALPHA STUDIO: Crew-neck sweater with raised braiding 5 BIKKEMBERGS: Multitasking garments in iridescent colours, made of materials that blend wool, nylon and leather 6 IMPULSO: The high-quality fabric sweatshirt features nautical flag details

vtvt vtvu

4

6

2

3

50

5

r u o l o c


The upcoming season sees the launch of Save The Duck’s

watching and waiting for us to send out a tangible sign of

SS20 collection, but mostly an increased attention toward

change. When we were young we learned to turn off the

sustainable issues with the brand taking action through a

tap when brushing our teeth, but do we know how much

global educational campaign, aimed at contaminating the

water producing a t-shirt consumes?

style business with

The

an alternative idea

approximately 2700

of

liters. You see, the “0”

fashion

that

answer

needs to become

impact

sustainable for an

exist.

increasing

something inevitably

number

does

is

not

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creates an impact.

of people.

But any fabric today It is through love for

can be made in a

animals

and

more sustainable way

profound respect for

and we feel sustaina-

the planet, permea-

bility must not be

ting every part of

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the brand’s DNA,

of arrival but a path

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founder

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CEO Nicolas Bargi

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statement that will

Save

be collected by generations to come.

to The

improve Duck

RECYCLED collection with its green logo continues its technical evolution thanks to the introduction of polyester

“The global textiles and clothing industry is responsible for

and fabrics generated from recycling of plastic bottles, plus

unprecedent consumption of water, CO2 emissions and

RECYCLED PLUMTECH® for padding.

waste. It’s no secret this is having a huge impact on our

“Change is possible, but we must act fast and engage

ecosystem and that includes animals. I believe it is about

young people while working with local communities and

time companies put more effort into production control

global organizations alike to set the pace toward change.

and behaviour, leading the way toward change and

Education and Changemaking will be our pillar words in

protection of our ecosystem. New generations are

2020”.


PITTI FALL WINTER

vtvt vtvu 4

1 FERRANTE: Twin set with three-button knitted jacket and patch pockets on a twisted knit turtleneck 2 DIGEL: Left, mismatched suit with checked jacket, polo shirt and gray pants. Right, three-buttoned coat with plain jacket, shirt and crew-neck sweater paired with black trousers

6

6 CIRCOLO 1901: Double-breasted jacket with golden buttons and plum-coloured mélange turtleneck 7 FRADI: Left, leather jacket with délavé effect crew-neck sweater with white pants. In the center, sleeveless suede gilet with two-button tailored suit and striped turtleneck. Right, peacoat with thermo-technical fabric gilet, paired with turtleneck and blue pants with a comfortable fit

2

5

1

3 TAGLIATORE: Unlined doubled-breasted trench coat, wool maxi check pattern, raglan sleeves, belt with buckle on the waist and cuffs 4 MINO RONZONI 1953: Lace-up desert boots with vintage leather-colored stitching 5 MANUEL RITZ: Double-breasted suit with peak lapels, diamond-yarn turtleneck and striped collar

52

3

l a m r o f

7


ď‚?

PITTI FALL WINTER

vtvt vtvu

3

1

3 TELERIA ZED: Asphalt-colored cargo pants with a sartorial style 4 XACUS: Liberty fabric shirt with a micro and macro floral design, in 20 versions 5 LARDINI: Tailored, double-breasted suit with peak lapels and aged-effect buttons 6 PENCE 1979: Shirt with eco-suede patches and two different pants with a comfortable fit

4

y d n a d 5

2 54

1 AT.P.CO: Classic or multi-pocket velvet model, with or without a pleat, with a comfortable fit 2 MCLAUREN: Cardigan, crew-neck and V-neck sweater made of fine retro-style yarns reminiscent of English clubs and colleges

6


` ` `

andreafenzi.com mclauren1962.com gioferrari.com


ď‚?

PITTI FALL WINTER

3 HAND PICKED: Shirts and pants made of denim produced with a special cotton, grown using traditional techniques and with greater attention to water consumption 4 SAVE THE DUCK: Rainproof parka made of Free fabric with Oxford structure with high anti-abrasive performance

vtvt vtvu

1

3

5

5 SUN68: Tom Solid sneaker model made of nylon and black polyurethane with contrasting laces 6 PIQUADRO: Backpack in the PQ-Bios collection, made of Econyl regenerated nylon yarn, obtained from processing waste such as fishing nets and textile fibres

6

green

2

1 BRIGLIA 1949: Japanese denim model made with eco-friendly fiber 2 BERWICH: Triptych of pants with regular waist made of eco-friendly wool

56

4


www.artioli.com

by appointment - Via Bigli 15 Milano - info@artioli.com


PITTI FALL WINTER

ď‚?

vtvt vtvu

1 ELLESSE: Recycled polyester anorak with down filling and special egg shape 2 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI: Left, two-button striped suit with button-down shirt and double cashmere bomber jacket. In the center, two-button velvet suit with cotton shirt, wool tie and two-tone down jacket. Right, jogging outfit with double-breasted coat

7

5 TATRAS: Wool raincoat with a classic style, down padding and an enveloping volume 6 LUMBERJACK: Suede sneaker with rubber sole 7 DIVISIBILE: Single-breasted technical fabric down jacket with zip and hooded collar

4

1

2

3 RRD: Three-component eskimo jacket: shell in 80% polyamide/20% super-matt Lycra with polyurethane membrane and 5,000 mm water column resistance. Invisible zips and heatsealed rainproof seams 4 MCS: Stretch denim jeans with fitted leg and slim fit

5

6 58

3

sport


THE SOUND OF SILENCE Introducing the Superlampo brand new teeth and the SHINY collection.

www.lampo. eu


PITTI 97 OUTWEAR FALL - WINTER 2020/2021

Aiming High Contemporary men interpret their relationship with leisure time in a profoundly different way compared to the past. There is a shift away from cataloguing and differentiation, for example between “informal” and “athletic”, in favour of a mix of numerous factors, centred around a relaxed yet slightly adventurous mood, in and out of the city. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

WOOLRICH

61


MACKAGE

OOF WEAR

HOLUBAR

CHEVIGNON

SKY

DUEL

TATRAS

PAUL&SHARK 62

The bomber is a fundamental garment for protecting ourselves from the cold and walks immersed in the beauty of natural surroundings. Made of nylon, canvass and shearling with jersey or double-layered wool cloth inserts, it matches effortlessly with velvet corduroy trousers or jeans.

STEWART RANGER SLIM - SHEARLING

AERONAUTICA MILITARE

P448

BARBOUR


Parkas and anoraks become the perfect uniform, also for winter in the city. Goose down padded, featuring vibrant colours and shiny fabrics, they complete true musher-style outfits, also featuring ubiquitous large scarves and street CANADIENS

HERNO

URBAN

CANYON

MONTECORE

PEAK PERFORMANCE

BLAUER

BUGATTI

FREEDOMDAY

DOLOMITE 63


Coats unveil comfortable breadths and a well-studied length: practicality and hindrance-free comfort. The evolution of an essential outerwear item, suitable for everyday use in the city, often quilted and soft to the touch, preferably in double-layer wool but also synchronised with a high altitude spirit, thanks to hi-tech features for added comfort. JOOP

ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA

FLUID

COMFORT

TRAIANO

SARTORIA LATORRE 64

BARACUTA

GABRIELE PASINI

HEVÒ

PAOLONI


AT.P.CO

ESEMPLARE

DUNO

CANADIAN

POWER

BIKKEMBERGS

CIESSE PIUMINI

BOOST

TATRAS ROLF EKROTH-TERINIT

A veritable revolution of down jackets which become captivating, lightweight yet warm and supremely chic, as though they were jackets. Ample and ultra glamorous fits in response to contemporary needs. All eyes on the Finnish duo Rolf Ekroth

P448 FILA 65


MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

LOUIS VUITTON

SHARP SHAPES BY ALBERTO CORRADO

The dictionary of fashion rediscovers a romantic spirit, leveraging creativity to re-elaborate the pessimism of these dark times, leading us to reconsider our relationship with life, nature and others, under the auspices of elegance. 67

Digel


MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

DRIES VAN NOTEN

RESHAKE

MARCELO BURLON OF COUNTY OF MILAN

GIORGIO ARMANI

FENG CHEN WANG

DIOR 68

ASPHALT ART

JACQUEMUS

RANDOM IDENTITIES

EMPORIO ARMANI


NUMERO 00

N 21

WALES BONNER

GUCCI

LOVE SHOUT

BETHANY WILLIAMS

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

DAVID CATALÁN

LOEWE 69


MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

UNDERCOVER

ROCHAS

VALENTINO

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

RHUDE 70

RAF SIMONS

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

DANDY DREAMS

ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI


For more than a century we have been a key player in the womenswear and menswear Haute Couture garment industry with a leading position in the Parisian market and a world leader in knitted interlining products. Lainière Paris produces its innovative range of products from its historical factory Lainière de Picardie.

Since 1945, DHJ is a renowned manufacturer of shirt interlinings. From standard single layer non-fusible cotton, to complex poly cotton assemblies, DHJ has mastered all technicalities. DHJ’s worldwide network enables us to offer you consistent products and services all over the world.

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MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

SMOOTH STROLL LANVIN

FABIO QUARANTA

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA 72

SACAI

PAUL SMITH

JIL SANDER

K-WAY

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK


ALYX

BERLUTI

FENDI

PRONOUNCE

ASTRID ANDERSEN

HERMÈS

JUNIA WATANABE

HIGH VOLTAGE

NEIL BARRETT 73


MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

SUNNEI

MAGLIANO

DOLCE&GABBANA

CRAIG GREEN

BALMAIN 74

CHORUSTYLE

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

NOMAD CROSSING

A-COLD-WALL


EXTINCTION REBELLION ETRO

PRADA

RICK OWENS

SPYDER

OFF WHITE

MSGM

MARNI

ICEBERG 75


MEN’S CATWALKS FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

JIEDA

ACNE STUDIOS

AMIRI

EGO MANIAC

MARCO DE VINCENZO 76

J.W. ANDERSON

GIVENCHY

DSQUARED2


MENSWEAR FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

CROSSING BOUNDARIES

From London to Milan, via Paris, Berlin and Florence: collections presented in the fashion capitals are a constellation of codes and languages which transcend mere concepts of style, season and gender. A journey in which clothes seamlessly blend industry and sartoriality, mass production and unique pieces, fashion design and vision, to become new models for making well-informed purchases. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

ANDREA POMPILIO 79


WOMEN’S PRE-FALL 2020

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1 VETEMENTS 2 LAZOSCHMIDL 3 SANDRO PARIS 4 UNDERCOVER 5 WOOLRICH OUTDOOR LABEL 6 CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HAPPY RUI

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Rive Gauche


1 PACIFISM 2 BAND OF OUTSIDERS 3 LOU DALTON 4 PRONOUNCE + DIESEL 5 BIANCA SAUNDERS 6 ROBYN LINCH

4 1

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Brit Pop

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WOMEN’S PRE-FALL 2020

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1 BOMBOOGIE 2 DIGEL 3 ECOALF 4 LA MARTINA 5 COLMAR 6 BOB

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Spandau Spleen 82


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1 CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI 2 MATCHLESS 3 MISSONI UOMO 4 CARUSO 5 KITON 6 PHILIPPE MODEL PARIS 7 UNITED STANDARD 1

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Paninaro Blues

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PRE-FALL 2020

ALANUI The collection strikes a perfect balance between ultra-cool aesthetic sensitivity and high quality craftsmanship, palpable in padded jacquard sweaters, Icon cardigans with mountain scenes, printed and embroidered denim, padded with camel wool bouclé, and tartan dresses. This stylistic coherence also distinguishes accessories, stockings, hats, scarves and shoes, including those made together with Suicoke, in three unisex models.

A. TEODORO Sartoriality distinguishes outerwear made of wool crêpe or featuring houndstooth patterns, inspired by the original designs of the magazine “Ver Sacrum”. Centre stage to tunic and culotte pant suits made of Vatican canvas. Discrete and sophisticated cocktail dresses feature meticulously curated details and a rigorous silhouette which reflects the austere style of the first few decades of the 20th century.

DANGER

ZONE

The decisive colour of a mannish cut coat. The creative madness of a couture print. Together, to express a deluxe androgyny, steeped in newand constantly evolving horizons. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

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ERMANNO SCERVINO Elegant contrasts forge a sophisticated wardrobe for a women of multiple yet coherent personalities. The lace model can be worn with the boots; the romantic shirt is matched with trackpants; the bodice dress is covered by the closed duvet. For the evening, jackets characterised by masculine tailoring in coat-dress style become tuxedo jackets. The collection celebrates the maison’s unique and profoundly Italian craftsmanship.

EMILIO PUCCI A boat and the splendid scenario of Capri are transformed into new Pucci prints, where the logo appears to melt away into micro-prints which inhabit refined materials. Jersey becomes technical jersey characterised by a flexible texture; dégradé silk jacquard reproduces the effect of night lights on water, whereas technical organza enhances the liquid sparkle of iridescent colours. Nature and artifice seamlessly blend together, in the name of feminine and seductive fluidity. VIVETTA Vintage postcards become prints and fabrics for garments featuring doll silhouettes or a formal rigour attenuated by a childish touch. Trouser suits are sartorial and classic blazers are worn with trompe l’oeil wastcoats; sporty jackets feature ruffled collars, similar to the Pierrot collar, for an extravagant touch. The much-loved leitmotif of cat contours merges with an abstract military pattern, for which the term cat-ouflage has been coined.

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PITTI BIMBO FALL - WINTER 2020/2021

IL GUFO

IN THE MOOD FORJOY BY ALBERTO CORRADO

What if we started to look at the world from a different point of view, rediscovering more human rhythms? “Slow down� is the new mantra. Looking at the world from a different perspective and living everyday life like an adventure, with mum and dad. Boys and girls are the stars of this playful revolution, as they choose a wardrobe of versatile garments with increasingly ethical contents. Kids are at the centre of all this, dressed as children and encouraged to go back to connecting with nature. This is the style of the future. 87


PITTI BIMBO 90 FALL - WINTER 2020/2021

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Hide and Seek 1. EMILIO PUCCI JUNIOR 2. EMPORIO ARMANI JUNIOR 3. PETIT BATEAU +TREEDOM 4. LA GALETTE 5. STEFANIA

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1.FRACOMINA 2. JACOB COHËN JUNIOR 3. BOBOLI 4. GUESS KIDS 5. MARNI KIDS

Party Time

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PITTI BIMBO FALL - WINTER 2020/2021

Frosty Mountains

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1. COLMAR 2. HERNO KIDS 3. ERMANNO SCERVINO JUNIOR 4. BLAUER JUNIOR 4 90


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1. DOLCE&GABBANA JUNIOR 2. CHICCO 3. MIMISOL 4. MONNALISA 4. RELISH GIRL

Funky Rain

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CAREERS

A CURA DI carla ALESSANDRA mercurio BIGOTTA

Raf Simons and Prada Group: fact or fiction? It started with a tweet, and now fashion industry insiders now want to know: is Prada Group getting ready to open its doors to Raf Simons? This question remained unanswered as this magazine went to press. The Simons rumor had been circulating for a few months, but it was WSJ fashion editor Jacob Gallagher who was the first to tweet the news on Twitter (and then promptly removed it from his profile). “I heard that Raf Simons will go to Prada. I have no other details, “ he wrote. Experts had various reactions. Prada Group preferred not to comment, and the rumors vary. Some say Simons is ready to take the helm of the Miu Miu brand, while others say he will take the helm at the flagship brand, overseeing menswear. The rapport between the Belgian designer and Prada Group is solid, given that in 2005 it was Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli who tapped him to guide the Jil Sander brand, which they owned at the time and then subsequently sold.

Miroglio group completes its management reorganization After the recent appointment of Alessandro Colombo as CEO of Miroglio Textile, the Alba-based group has completed the reorganization of its managerial teams at the top of the holding company and its divisions, textile and clothing. Colombo steps into the CEO role that has been vacant since 2018, after Armando Ballarini's departure. He will also retain the operational role as the business unit director of Miroglio Textile, which was assigned to him last September. Ballarini brings an expertise in the international textile market from his term at the Marzotto Group. The CEO position at the holding company, which was still vacant following the exit of Andrea Ferrero three years ago, has finally been filled: Alberto Racca, who has been with Miroglio since October 2018 as Group Strategy & Transformation director, will take over the top spot of Miroglio SpA. The trio is completed by Gaetano Sallorenzo, appointed last April as CEO of Miroglio Fashion to replace Hans Hoegstedt. 1

Role shifts: new hires, comebacks

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Alessio Vannetti joins Valentino. And bets are on for Jacopo Venturini The rumors about Jacopo Venturini’s move from Gucci to Valentino, where he could play an important top management role, are expected to be confirmed soon. In the meantime, Alessio Vannetti, who served as Gucci's worldwide communications director from January 2015 to September 2019, has been named Valentino's Chief Brand Officer. Vannetti will be responsible for developing Valentino’s communication, image and brand experience strategy. Vannetti will also be working directly with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and CEO Stefano Sassi. According to rumors, Sassi is preparing to take on a role supervising brands under the Mayhoola umbrella, including Balmain and Pal Zileri and is expected to pass the baton Jacopo Venturini. It is no coincidence that Sassi has said: “2020 will see more than one new top manager."

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1. Alessandro Colombo 2. Alberto Racca 3. Gaetano Sallorenzo

Puig’s first move at Dries Van Noten: Matteo De Rosa named brand president The Barcelona-based group Puig has made its first move after acquiring Dries Van Noten in 2018, with a view to build the label founded by the Antwerp designer of the same name. Matteo De Rosa has recently been appointed president, an executive who brings a long experience in the fashion sector to the brand, which aims to increase its presence in global markets. De Rosa’s experience included six years at Ports 1961, where he also held the role of managing director. The company said in a statement: “His extensive experience in important positions, both in Europe and in the Asia-Pacific area, with a focus on business and company expansion, makes him the ideal candidate for this role.” Dries Van Noten, who founded his brand in 1986, is the company’s minority shareholder and holds the title of creative director and chairman of the board.


APRIL 22–23rd 2020 MUNICH WHERE FUNCTION MEETS FASHION

www.performancedays.com


portrait

The Asian-American designer who seduced Ngg (and Farfetch) Remember the young woman who took a catwalk bow hand in hand with Kim Jones at the end of the Dior show in June 2018? Well, her name is Yoon Ahn - better known as the designer of Ambush, the jewelry and ready-to-wear brand she launched with her husband, the rapper Verbal. A few weeks ago New Guards Group acquired a majority stake in the brand. Now Yoon Ahn is thinking even bigger as a new chapter dawns

YOON AHN AMBUSH

By Angela Tovazzi

T

he name Ambush is certainly not unknown to fashion industry professionals. The brand’s visibility recently surged in January 2020 when it was snapped up by New Guards Group, or NGG, which itself was acquired by Farfetch for $675 million last August. NGG is the umbrella group that holds streetwear labels including Virgil Abloh’s Off-White (Abloh, the King Midas who turns everything he touches to gold), Palm Angels, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, and Alanui. Ambush had been on the radar of NGG (founded five years ago by Claudio Antonioli, Davide De Giglio and Marcelo Burlon) for the past year, because of its remarkable brand awareness despite it not being a big business – its turnover is said to be 22 million dollars. Who is behind Ambush’s success? To answer this question, we need to ping pong between the United States and Japan, designer Yoon Ahn’s reference points. She was born in 1977, of Korean origin but raised in Seattle, and her boyfriend Verbal - now partner in life and in business - is a famous rapper in Japan as well as part of the hip hop group M-Flo. They met in Boston, and after moving to Tokyo, where they started to shape their creative ideas in 2002. Their journey began in jewelry, Yoon Ahn’s first love. They finally started a brand in 2008. They haven’t stopped since, thanks to the hyperbuzz generated by endorsements from Kanye West and Rihanna. The first unisex

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YOON AHN Born › 1977 Education › graphic design in Boston Ambush jewelry launch › 2008 Ready-to-wear launch › 2015 Finalist at the Lvmh Prize › 2017 Appointment at Dior Homme › 2018 Deal with NGG (Farfetch) › January 2020 ready-to-wear collection debuted in 2016, and in 2017 Ahn was catapulted onto LVMH Prize stage, where she joined the magic circle of its eight finalists. Creative director of Dior Homme Kim Jones quickly realized Ahn was a super-talent, and enlisted her to design the brand’s jewelry collection. When the designer made his catwalk debut in June 2018, he asked her to join him with a post-show bow to bask in the public’s applause. It was great visibility for Ahn, and the best was yet to come. A new chapter has now opened for Ambush thanks to the deal with NGG: new investments by NGG (thanks to Farfetch) in production and distribution, both offline and online. The jewelry and denim lines will reportedly continue to be made in Japan, while clothing and accessory production will move to Italy, where the New Guards Group has a strong supply chain. The design team will remain in Tokyo, where Yoon Ahn and Verbal live. Expansion into new international mar-

kets is also on the horizon, and of course - thanks to Farfetch - the label expects an increase in online sales. Now Yoon will be able to concentrate on design, cultivating the dream of transforming Ambush into a creative eco-system, given her broad range of interests: from fashion to jewelry, certainly, but also food and beauty. ■


Q&A

BY CARLA MERCURIO

“After 50 years our DNA is the same, but there are no limits for experimentation” Creativity, curiosity, constant innovation: all the ingredients that created C.P. Company 50 years ago are still there today, said President Lorenzo Osti. The brand is now part of Hong Kong-based Tristate Holdings. Thanks to Osti, it has re-claimed its verve, and is growing exponentially. Meanwhile, the brand’s search for innovation continues

A

lmost 50 years have passed since your father Massimo Osti created the Chester Perry brand, in 1971, which later became C.P. Company: what remains of this legacy in the collections today? C.P. Company’s DNA has remained unchanged. The brand has always been about an aesthetic that combines the functionality of military style with a continuous search for new fabrics and treatments, which culminates in garment dyeing. The constant tension between heritage and innovation is and will always be the foundation of each piece. What is your father’s legacy in terms of the approach to work and product? I share the same “holistic” approach to the brand that my father had, but I have never been and will never be a designer. I make sure, however, that all aspects of the brand are the result of a single vision and closely connected, as he always did. How has the brand changed since it became part of Tristate Holdings in 2015? Since 2016, the first year as part of Tristate Holdings, C.P. Company has had strong and constant growth. Our 2019 turnover was six times higher than in 2015. At Milano Moda Uomo you re-proposed Moreno Ferrari’s Urban Protection project which dates from late 1999. How did you update the concept? Twenty years later, what Moreno had imagined is not that far from reality: climate change, the destruction of the planet, megacities. To update the project, we worked on technology: materials, which today offer performance unattainable at the time; and not only. But I can’t say more at the moment. For the next Fall-Winter collection, we will re-propose the iconic jacket in ultra-light and high-performance versions made by materials such as Dyneema, Gor-Tex Xenia and Gore-Tex Infinium.

Direttore Responsabile e A.D. Marc Sondermann (m.sondermann@fashionmagazine.it) Caposervizio Alessandra Bigotta (a.bigotta@fashionmagazine.it) Redazione Andrea Bigozzi (a.bigozzi@fashionmagazine.it) Elisabetta Fabbri (e.fabbri@fashionmagazine.it) Carla Mercurio (c.mercurio@fashionmagazine.it) Angela Tovazzi (a.tovazzi@fashionmagazine.it) ENGLISH EDITORS Sofia Celeste, Jennifer Clark Realizzazione grafica Nadia Blasevich (n.blasevich@fashionmagazine.it) Carlo Maraschi (c.maraschi@fashionmagazine.it) Fashion Editor Alberto Corrado (a.corrado@fashionmagazine.it) Collaboratori Mariella Barnaba, Annalisa Betti, Cristiana Bonzi Pubblicità e promozione Barbara Sertorini (b.sertorini@fashionmagazine.it) Laura Pianazza (l.pianazza@fashionmagazine.it)

Lorenzo Osti C.P. Company President How are you dealing with sustainability? The brand was acquired four years ago, and we have only now reached a point where we can seriously start looking at the topic. In the next Fall-Winter collection, we have introduced the first recycled versions of our bestselling fabrics. In recent weeks we have been working on our roadmap to reduce our environmental impact, with the aim of becoming a carbon neutral company. Where will C.P. Company be in five years? We want to grow further and consolidate where we are strongest, exploring brand extensions with great caution. In recent seasons we have grown a lot in accessories and trousers, a category that historically has never been the brand’s workhorse. On March 31, you will open a store in Amsterdam, after Milan and Beijing. How are your stores conceived? We want to create experimental platforms, characterized by a unique and exclusive atmosphere capable of involving customers. The design is minimalist but highly modular. In addition, our spaces are soundproofed, to offer a more intimate experience than other retail spaces. For 2021, when we celebrate the brand’s 50th anniversary, we will open in Paris, London and Seoul. E-commerce accounts for 5% of your turnover. What are you doing in this area? We are strengthening the digital team and updating our technological infrastructure in order to take advantage of the most innovative tools in the field of AI-driven marketing automation. ■

Senior Digital Advisor Stefania Navaretti (s.navaretti@fashionmagazine.it) Special Projects Matteo Ferrante Veneziani (m.veneziani@fashionmagazine.it) Assistente di direzione / UFFICIO TRAFFICO Valentina Capra (v.capra@fashionmagazine.it) Amministrazione Cristina Damiano (c.damiano@fashionmagazine.it) Abbonamento annuale 199,00 e (quindicinale) c/c postale n. 16879207 È possibile richiedere gratuitamente la rettifica o la cancellazione scrivendo a: Edizioni Ecomarket Spa - servizio abbonamenti Piazza Pio XI 1 - 20123 Milano Numeri Arretrati: 16,00 e cad L’editore garantisce che i dati forniti dai sottoscrittori degli abbonamenti vengono utilizzati esclusivamente per l’invio della pubblicazione come quelli relativi agli invii in omaggio non vengono ceduti a terzi per alcun motivo. Garanzia di riservatezza per gli abbonati in ottemperanza al D. Lgs. n.196/2003 (tutela dati personali)

Edizioni Ecomarket Spa Redazione, Amministrazione, Pubblicità Piazza Pio XI 1 20123 Milano telefono 02 80620-1 Fashion - Il magazine di news, business e trend Registrazione presso il Tribunale di Milano n. 389 del 6-11-1970 Iscrizione n. 1418 al ROC Registro Operatori della Comunicazione Stampa: Vela Web Srl - Via Copernico 8 - 20082 Binasco (Mi) MDM Milano Distribuzione Media Srl È vietata la riproduzione anche parziale Articoli, disegni e fotografie, anche se non pubblicati, non verranno restituiti © Fashion 2020 Edizioni Ecomarket - Milano

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The Italian Issue

* Dichiarzione di tiratura IVW III/2019 con 4,4 lettori per copia stampata in abbonamento (secondo la consultazione dei primi lettori nell‘analisi strutturale dei lettori 2017) più gli utenti digitali (dati dell‘editore); possibilità di doppio conteggio.

Nuovi modelli di business e artigianato legati alla tradizione. Innovazione a tutti i livelli. La moda italiana punta al futuro, ma senza spogliarsi del proprio bagaglio storico.

Julia Mund telefono: +49 69 7595 1715 mund@TextilWirtschaft.de

Quasi 67.000 lettori* dell‘unica rivista di settore certificata IVW.

DP: 26.03.2020 CP: 18.03.2020

Attenzione particolare: contenuti emozionanti in un layout di alta qualità.

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Ulteriore distribuzione dell‘edizione speciale in tedesco e in inglese in occasione di fiere ed eventi.


PEOPLE

by CARLA MERCURIO

EDOARDO LEO

“Elegance? It’s when my outfit doesn’t outshine me”

Scott Schuman AND Valstar

“My capsule for the modern globetrotter”

Elegance, for the protagonist of Ferzan Ozpetek’s “La Dea Fortuna,” means balance or being comfortable in one’s skin - no matter if you’re in a tuxedo or a leather jacket. “In terms of style, Giorgio Armani is number one.” At Milan’s menswear shows, we caught up with the star, who was sitting front row at Giorgio Armani. Have you been invited to any other fashion shows in the past? I was also a guest of Giorgio Armani two years ago. I don’t often go to fashion shows and until recently I really wasn’t paying attention to what was going on in the fashion world. Then something clicked and that brought me closer to fashion, also through the clothes and vision of this incredible master. And it is amazing how this iconic, international brand has a management team that is so warm with the people who wear their clothes. You feel part of a family. How would you define your style? The advantage of my job is transformism. The thing that gives me the most satisfaction is to alternate my biker days - on my vintage motorcycle, wearing wornout jeans, basic T-shirts and aged leather jackets - with the time when I play with a tailored suit or a tuxedo when my job requires it. What are your favorite brands? Armani above all. And it will be that way as long as this feeling remains - when I put on a jacket or shirt, it feels like King Giorgio designed it just for me. Before Armani, I didn’t like blue. Now it is one of my favorite colors. For years I have had a beautiful relationship with Adidas for sports, and I am a compulsive collector of the shoes, or with Colmar for technical mountain clothing.

Do you have a passion for any particular item? Yes of course, leather jackets. From the very start. And I never throw them away. I’ve had some in terrible condition for years, but they are always there in my closet. They remind me of past experiences, as well as a few falls and a few victories. Did your experiences on set influence your style and your wardrobe? I don’t think I’ve been influenced, because on the set we live inside the world of characters who dress and think differently from us. The choice of stage costumes, shoes, really puts us into someone else’s shoes. It is essential to feel this difference when playing a character. Then the film ends and that remains a story told, filmed. What does being elegant mean to you? I feel elegant when I am comfortable with what I am wearing. I smile calmly, I move lightly, I walk and I sit with confidence. When the outfit I’m wearing doesn’t outshine me, when there is balance and it doesn’t seem like I’m wearing that outfit for the very first time. After “La Dea Fortuna” and “18 Regali,” where will we still see you in the future? After these two films, which have brought me so much satisfaction, as well as a theatre tour, I will be in cinemas on March 12 with “Ritorno al Crimine” by Massimiliano Bruno, sequel to the successful film “Non ci Resta che il Crimine.” Then I will begin the shooting of my new film, this time as a director, “Lasciarsi un Giorno a Roma.” ■

A sporty collection, made with technical fabrics, suitable for a modern day jetsetter, The Sartorialist x Valstar was made possible by the Piedmont-based manufacturing company, Fratelli Fila, that owns the outerwear brand. “I am happy to be able to work with Valstar on this project,” said Schuman, the founder of the blog The Sartorialist and one of the pioneers of street style photography. “It is always fascinating to reinterpret an iconic brand, bringing in new elements, while remaining consistent with the brand identity,” New York-based Schuman added. The mission of the collaboration was to re-envisage Valstar’s DNA through the photographer’s point of view - and to cater to the needs of a creative person constantly on the move. “My idea was to imagine how Valstar could embody style and the needs of a modern traveler. So we worked with the company’s stylists to create a collection with updated proportions, which would mix sport influences, modern proportions and technical fabrics,” he explained. The result: a range of pieces with a sporty and high-tech image, available in colors such as burgundy, navy and green. “The idea is to have a small wardrobe, where the garments work both individually and for a total look.” (a.t.)

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RED CARPET by Alessandra bigotta

Jean Paul Must Go On

A fashion show to remember. Marking the last haute couture show, Jean Paul Gaultier drew the curtain on 50 years of catwalk extravaganzas, uniting some of his dearest friends, from Dita von Teese to Rossy de Palma. Is this farewell forever? Not really: “I am done with shows, but not with business. I already have another project in mind, that will be unveiled shortly.”

Dita von Teese, right. Below, Pedro Almodóvar’s muse, Rossy de Palma

“I love mixing people, types and social classes”: Jean Paul Gaultier’s mantra Left, 80-year-old entertainer Amanda Lear. Above, French actress Béatrice Dalle

Boy George sang some of his top hits

The designer, 68 years old on April 24, at the end of the show staged at Théâtre du Chatelet

Chiara Ferragni Makes a Splash at Aniye By Italian celebs like Elisabetta Canali, Levante and Booda, mingled amid the gritty sound of Marracash at Aniye By’s mega party at Milan’s concert and disco venue Magazzini Generali. The rock party was planned to specifically to showcase the FW 20/21 collection, which was an hommage to the eighties, refreshed by creative director Alessandra Marchi. Influencer Chiara Ferragni made a grand entrance, dressed in a sparkling number that caught the flash of an eager scrum of photographers.

Gimel Unveils Milan Showroom

The FW 20/21 season starring Aniye By

Aniye By’s rock party at Milan’s temple of clubbing

Chiara Ferragni and Alessandra Marchi

Above, Haiyan Fun of Digital Modern Family. Below, Alberto Dalena, Gimel CEO, together with Matteo Marzotto

The opening party for Gimel’s new 500 square metres showroom took place at Casa Campanini on Via Vincenzo Bellini, 11. The Italian kids wear company produces Elisabetta Franchi, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Roberto Cavalli under license, as well as its own brand Le Petit Coco.


WORLD PREMIERE

DYNTEX INTRODUCES WORLD’S FIRST ULTRALIGHT BIOSYNTHETIC FUNCTIONAL FABRICS yntex, developer and manufacturer of functional materials based in Bregenz, Austria, has launched two world premieres: DYNTEX® Biodegradable is the world’s first ultralight functional fabric that only takes five years to biodegrade. Dyntex® Biological Origin is also ultralight and made entirely from bio-based raw materials. Leading premium manufacturers of athletic and lifestyle clothing have already expressed their interest in the fabrics. Working with specialists from Japan and Italy, Dyntex invested three years into the development of these two extraordinary biosynthetic fabrics. Dyntex CEO Mathias Braun is convinced that “they have what it takes to revolutionize the market for environmentally friendly functional fabrics. Our fabrics set new standards when it comes to athletic, outdoor, and lifestyle apparel.” Premium manufacturers have already shown great interest after initial talks.

Biodegradable in Only Five Years Dyntex® Biodegradable is the first ultralight functional fabric that is completely biodegradable in just five years. The yarn made of the high-tech polyamide Amni Soul Eco® makes it possible to produce fabrics of the highest quality that weigh only 38 grams per square meter. In addition, they are water-repellent, breathable, fluorocarbon-free, and extremely durable, even under heavy use. With one-of-a-kind tactile properties and exceptional looks, they are perfect for stylish functional clothing.

PHOTO BY DYNTEX/MATTHIAS WEISSENGRUBER

Andrea Paghera, Dyntex Italia (left), CEO Mathias Braun (center), and Alexander Gächter, head of sales for the DACH region, have already received inquiries from wellknown clothing manufacturers for two revolutionary organic functional textiles.

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY, FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES MADE OF BIOSYNTHETIC YARN AND BIODEGRADABLE FABRIC

In a landfill, functional textiles made of Dyntex® Biodegradable materials decompose into CO2, methane, and biomass within just five years – this was verified in a US laboratory that tested anaerobic biodegradation pursuant to the international ASTM D5511 (ISO 15985) standard. Standard polyamides typically take ten times longer to biodegrade. When combined with a biodegradable lining, this makes it possible to manufacture fully biodegradable products.

Completely Organic Yarn Dyntex® Biological Origin is made entirely from renewable resources, with the castor oil plant serving as the basis for the ultralight functional fabric. A bio-polymer is extracted from the plant that is then used to produce a particularly high-quality yarn. In a special manufacturing process, DYNTEX® uses this yarn to produce ultralight functional fabrics of the highest quality with one-of-a-kind tactile properties and exceptional looks. With this newly developed collection of materials, manufacturers can completely eliminate the use of fossil resources. The castor oil plant is the perfect raw material for such fabrics. It grows in arid, nutrient-poor soil, requires little water, and is not edible. This means the castor oil plant does not compete with the cultivation of food crops in the agricultural industry.

Environmentally Friendly and of the Highest Quality According to Dyntex CEO Mathias Braun, the newly developed fabric collection “plays a critical role in protecting the environment for future generations.” Accordingly, he sees tremendous opportunities in the rapidly growing market for environmentally friendly functional textiles. An Italian fashion label will already be releasing the first jackets made with Dyntex fabrics in January.

For more information, please visit: www.dyntex-bio.com and www.dyntex.eu

FACTS

D yn tex B io syn t he t ic s

– Ultralight functional fabrics weighing as little as 38 gr/m2 – Breathable, water-repellent, extremely durable – Dyntex® Biodegradable: fully biodegradable in five years – Dyntex® Biological Origin: made from the castor oil plant – Applications: athletic, outdoor, and lifestyle clothing


Profile for Fashionmagazine

FASHION N 3 2020  

FASHION N 3 2020