FOOD & DRINK
Chef Jeffery Harris based Nolia on his New Orleans upbringing as well as his travels and other inspirations. P H OTO : H A I L E Y B O L L I N G E R
Nolia Brings Elevated Southern Cuisine to Over-the-Rhine BY S E A N M . P E T E R S
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ew restaurant Nolia adds some Southern flair to Cincinnati’s foodie landscape. But while the restaurant serves unique dishes inspired by Chef Jeffery Harris’ upbringing in New Orleans, the fare stays authentic to the chef himself rather than to his hometown’s
traditional cuisine. Situated in the space formerly occupied by Please (famous for its selfie-friendly bathroom and James Beard Award-winning chef’s stellar offerings) in Over-the-Rhine, the dining environment is upscale yet approachable. Nolia’s menu is stacked
with dishes like delectable smoked chicken slathered in Alabama white sauce, cider-stewed collard greens, redfish court-bouillon (pronounced co-boo-yon) and much more. All of the side dishes are vegan and, while you should not expect them to play zydeco or serve hurricane cocktails in novelty cups, the restaurant’s drink menu will truly laissez les bon temps rouler. I meet with Harris and his team on a Thursday morning as they prepare for the evening’s dinner rush. Stock simmers on the stovetop, giving the room a savory perfume, while sous chef Stephanie Gonzalez deep-frys some rice paper — the kind used for spring rolls and the like — to make vegan chicharrónes. The exact spice blend for this dish is kept secret, but it’s reminiscent of an elevated crab boil seasoning
— similar to Old Bay, but heavier on the garlic. The one hint Gonzalez offers is powderized black eyed peas — not something you’d likely be able to just guess, but on the palate it’s uncanny. The chicharrónes are a garnish for stewed okra with tomato, served over coarsely-ground Jimmy Red (a Southern corn varietal) grits, a simple side dish that borders on perfection. If you’re accustomed to instant grits, this is transcendental. Not a bad start to your meal. “This whole restaurant was put together from my childhood,” Harris tells CityBeat. “Stuff that I love about my city, my hometown of New Orleans and my travels throughout the South — from Texas, to the Carolinas, to Georgia. We just tried to play on parts of the South and also give people a
MAY 18, 2022 - MAY 31, 2022 |
CITYBEAT.COM
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